Trend Alert

ALERT By Dr. Shanessa Fenner

Scalp Stress

Fatigue and stress are the two leading causes of hair damage and breakage

for Black men and women, according to a recent study conducted by

Procter & Gamble.

High levels of stress can cause hair follicles to initiate their resting phase,

which can cause the hair to fall out or weaken. The in-depth study examined

the effects of anxiety and dandruff how these issues can influence our lives

and confidence. It turned out that having a dry scalp was more damaging

from a mental perspective, as well. Dr. Rolanda Wilkerson, P&G’s principal

beauty scientist, said study participants felt more “tense, reckless, wound

up” and that the embarrassment of this common issue made many self-

conscious. “We also saw language like depression,” Wilkerson said. “Some of them

thought of it as a disease, and they were always feeling not confident about

how they are showing up. For us, it told us that it is more than just flakes

that people can see. It is a feeling that goes along with it, and for many

people, if they don’t care for it regularly, that feeling actually follows them

throughout their life.”

These pain point discoveries were opportunities for P&G’s Royal Oils

and Pantene Gold Series brands to provide solutions. Wilkerson chatted

with OTC Beauty Magazine to discuss the study’s findings and the brands’

efforts to relieve the anxiety associated with dandruff.

Pantene Gold Series Hair Repair Anti-Breakage Combing Crème

Detangling can be painful for your scalp and tresses when the hair is weak or dry. With the Gold Series Hair Repair Anti-Breakage Combing Crème, detangling breakage is a thing of the past. The Biotin and Kuki Nut-infused crème will provide deep moisture for easy combing and detangling for 69% less breakage.

Royal Oils Refreshing Root Rinse

When wash day isn’t an immediate option, care for the scalp with the Royal Oils Refreshing Root Rinse. This aloe water and hemp oil-infused rinse removes buildup and refreshes the roots while locking in long-lasting scalp moisture to extend the life of the hairstyle for an additional week.

OTC BEAUTY MAGAZINE: Can you share a bit more about the study?

ROLANDA WILKERSON: We did the study across the United

States and started work in China and also in the UK. I will focus a lot more on

what we found here in the United States, more specifically with Black people.

The scalp can actually be a source of stress. If people know that they have a

flaky scalp, it stresses them out. Stress can make the scalp unhealthy, as well.

It is kind of like a circle of cascading interactions that can happen with people

that are prone to flaky scalp. . .

We see it happening first and foremost when they are teenagers, which is

also a bigger concern. Teenagers are experiencing other things that they may

worry about or may become self-conscious about. Their scalp is no different

at all. We know that we can help make a difference if we elevate the need for

and the attention to the scalp. We know that oftentimes for Black women and

men, we focus more on our hair and then our scalp, and as a result, (we) can

suffer (for that). That is the high-level view of the study.

Many of them, because they feel tense, wound up, or reckless is because of

their scalp, is primarily due to genetics and stress. For those of us who are, the

deciding factor is whether or not it is in your genes. It is in your genes whether

or not you will respond to the presence of a fungus on the scalp.

We all have the fungus, and stress can exacerbate the problem. That can

also show up on the hair, making the hair unhealthy even before it emerges

from the scalp. We have a goal as a company and brand to make sure that

we are elevating the need to care for the scalp.

OTC: Why should OTC retailers be aware of the findings of the study?

WILKERSON: This study is important because we did not take a

one-route approach to understanding what consumers are feeling. . .We

also are digging deeply into understanding how that makes them feel. If

we can reach them and speak to them in a way that we understand and

relate to how you are feeling and how your stress can exacerbate the issue,

(then) they won’t get into this recurring cycle of ‘I’m stressed because of my

dandruff,’ or ‘I’m stressed because I think I will have flaking, dryness, or

itching, and as a result, I am worried about how my hair looks.’

There are solutions out there for you to care for your scalp and hair in a

very effective way that is not only effective on the scalp and feels good. As a result, we will make you feel better about what you are doing and help

to resolve those symptoms. We share this with dermatologists, and they

asked how they can also share this data out more so that they can make

sure they are addressing their patients holistically and not just talking

about a one-size-fits-all approach - in terms of here is what you need to do

effectively care for your scalp. We work with psychodermatologists, those

who specialize in psychology as well as dermatology, to help drive that

messaging. But now, it is becoming more important for dermatologists to

also build that into how they speak to their patients.

This is why your OTC retailers need to understand there is a balance in

how you care for it, how we speak to them, and also reach them. That

is so very important to the consumer that you are serving as well as the

consumer that we serve too.

OTC: What can be done to prevent these scalp issues?

WILKERSON: We all naturally have a fungus that is a unique

microbiome on our scalp. As a part of that unique biome is a fungus that

is very prevalent for 50% of the population and 77% for Black men and

women who have dandruff and flaking issues. We respond to the presence

of that fungus. The skin response essentially says, ‘wait a minute, something

is going on with my scalp, and I don’t like it.’ The skin tries to defend itself,

and the defense mechanism is hyper-proliferation or the acceleration of

the production of skin cells. We know that to be flaking or the buildup of

skin cells on our scalp. We also see that as itch and dryness too. A lot of

Black women and men will say they have a dry scalp, and as a result, we

will begin to scratch and

itch, causing damage to

the hair fiber. It is deeply

embedded in genetics

and the chances of a

person responding to the

presence of that fungus,

but with a prolonged

wash frequency, which

is not washing the hair

frequently. For Black

women and men, it

tends to be once a week.

When you go beyond

that, oil buildup on top

of the fungus can make it

worse. We focus on educating around what happens on the scalp.

OTC: What are P&G’s brands doing to tackle these issues?

WILKERSON: Royal Oils and Pantene Gold Series definitively speak

to what is happening on the scalp with scalp ingredients that address the

root cause of many scalp concerns that we face, like flaking, dryness, and

itching. The ingredients in our products address the fungus that I spoke

about earlier. It helps to rebalance the scalp and provides moisturization benefits not only for the scalp but also for the hair. We have in our lineup

several different products. This is so important for us as we introduce this

lineup because we have good equity for Head & Shoulders providing scalp

benefits, but for Black women and men who have coily hair.

Coily hair craves moisture, and it thrives when it has moisturization,

and that’s because, at every twist and turn of the hair fiber, there’s the

uplifting of the cuticles that makes the hair more coarse. We needed Royal

Oils to be able not just

to address the long-

lasting moisturization

that the scalp needs but

also the long-lasting

moisturization that

the hair needs too. In

addition to the in-shower

products: shampoo,

conditioner, and cowash,

we also have full leave

on treatments that allow

the consumer to care for

their scalp in between

those washes.

It is especially important when we are wearing these protective styles. We

want to make sure that in addition to protecting the hair with protective

styles, we are protecting the scalp with products that address exactly

what the scalp needs, especially for those of us who are prone to having

dandruff flakes, dryness and itching. It is also important to add additional

moisturization to build into the hair’s resilience with ingredients that

can penetrate the hair strands. That is the differentiation that we are

bringing with Royal Oils because we are able to provide that high level of

moisturization, protection, and penetration of those active ingredients to

help protect the hair from the inside out.

Meet Dr. Shanessa Fenner

Dr. Shanessa Fenner is an elementary school principal, TV show host, former radio personality, writer and model.

18”

12”

TO KNOW By Briana Lockman

THIS or THAT?

It’s no secret that we take haircare very seriously. However, let’s have a little fun! Every head of hair is unique, some requiring more TLC in particular areas than others, but we all tend to measure our “hair fitness” according to a few general concerns. We’re coming through with a special game of “This or That,” the “hair fitness” edition, covering 5 areas of concern: Definition, Detangling, Moisture, Breakage, and Scalp Care. Play along and pick which contenders suit you best!

DEFINITION

Round One: Products

COCONUT SHEA CURL DEFINING CREME

DETANGLING

Round One: Products

PEPPERMINT TEA TREE DETANGLING CONDITIONER

Minty and refreshing, this rinse-out conditioner provides quality slip to varying hair textures. It’s creamy, but not super thick, so it spreads through curls with ease, providing a tingling sensation that’s therapeutic to the scalp. It’s built to fortify and soften the hair, especially following a clarifying shampoo. Peppermint Oil, Tea Tree Oil, Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Castor Oil and Carrot Seed Oil are just a few of its knockout ingredients.

or

HIBISCUS HONEY CURL HYDRATION CONDITIONER

An OG fan-favorite, this thick, humidity-resistant styling cream is known for providing medium hold, helping to make even the coiliest of curls pop! It’s specially designed for high density hair and delivers moisture along with the definition. Stand out ingredients: Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, Aloe Vera, Avocado Oil, Rice Extract, and Jojoba Oil. It’s ideal for wash ‘n gos or stretched styles like twist-outs or braid-outs.

ALMOND MARSHMALLOW HYDRATION SERUM

Nicknamed “Liquid Gold” by customers, this jellylike serum slips and slides through all textures of hair, providing unmatched shine and definition with soft-medium hold. Its lightweight formula smooths down the hair shaft to combat frizz and frayed ends. It hydrates and protects hair against daily pollutants. Reputable ingredients: Sweet Almond Oil, Marshmallow Root Extract, and Aloe Vera. Great for wash ‘n go styles + slicking back updos!

Round Two: Methods

RAKING

This hidden gem can serve as a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner. Soft and sweet-smelling, its lightweight consistency provides major slip to curls while also penetrating them with hydration. Key ingredients: Hibiscus Flower Extract, Honey, Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, and Aloe Vera.‘n go styles + slicking back updos!

Round Two: Tools

BRUSH WITH THE BEST, FELICIA LEATHERWOOD BRUSH

Made with incredible flexibility, this brush is only bonded on three sides, unlike most brushes, which are bonded on all four sides. These “flexi-bristles” provide fluidity, allowing them to move with the hair, which prevents pulling and breakage from occurring. It was crafted by professional stylist and Hollywood’s Natural Hair Guru, Felicia Leatherwood (@ lovingyourhair).

The raking method refers to applying product to wet curls by using your hand as a comb and “raking” it through the hair, from root to tip, section by section. This takes a moderate amount of time, depending on hair length and density. It leaves behind defined “day one” hair, with moderate volume prior to fluffing or picking. or

WIDE TOOTH COMB

Simple, yet effective, this OG tool gets the job done. It’s a comb with teeth set spaciously apart from one another, to prevent breakage to curls.

SHINGLING

During the shingling method, product is applied to the hair overall (wet), then each curl is individually coated, clumped and twirled, one by one. This tends to take a considerable amount of time, leaving behind highly defined “day one” hair, with minimal volume prior to fluffing or picking.

HIBISCUS HONEY HYDRATION CUSTARD

Thick and ready to hydrate, this custard moisturizes while it styles. It helps smooth and strengthen the hair + define curls with a soft-medium hold that’s perfect for twist-outs, braid-outs and other stretched styles. It works particularly well on high density curls and coils. Made with Hibiscus Flower Extract, Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, Rice Extract and Aloe Vera, it’s sure to fight off dryness! or

CITRUS FUSION HAIR + BODY BUTTER

Don’t let this product’s dual purpose fool you, it delivers when it comes to moisture – whether it’s used on the hair or skin. Loaded with antioxidants and nutrients, this butter provides intense hydration, leaving behind moisturized tresses (and skin) that’s soft to the touch. Castor Oil, Acai Fruit Extract, Aloe Vera, Honey, Grape Seed Oil, and Avocado Oil are just a few of its impactful ingredients.

Round Two: Practices

HAIR MASQUE TREATMENTS

This type of treatment involves thoroughly applying a designated hair masque or deep conditioner to the hair, especially focusing on the ends, which tend to be the oldest and driest part of the strand. Cover the hair with a plastic cap, and let the product work its magic for a minimum of 15 minutes before rinsing it out. Those with low porosity hair (when moisture doesn’t easily absorb into the strand) may also want to sit under a hooded dryer or heat cap to ensure the product penetrates. The frequency of these treatments depends on the individual; they can be done as often as every wash day, or as seldom as once per month. or

HOT OIL TREATMENTS

An age-old practice, hot oil treatments are an effective way to saturate the hair with moisturizing nutrients. A number of different oils can be used or even mixed together to perform the treatment; some of the most commonly used are Olive Oil, JojOba Oil, and Coconut Oil. One of the most effective ways to carry out a treatment is to thoroughly apply the oil from root to tip, then cover the hair with a plastic cap. Sit under a hooded dryer or heat cap for 15-30 minutes, then rinse. Heat opens up the hair cuticle, allowing the benefits of the oil(s) to penetrate.

SCALP CARE

Round One: Products

PEPPERMINT TEA TREE HAIR OIL

Scalp therapy in a bottle! This Hair Oil contains a unique blend that quickly absorbs and penetrates into the hair and scalp. It leaves behind a tingling sensation that helps stimulate blood circulation + relieve itching. The essential oils within its mix also work to treat dandruff without leaving behind buildup. What does it consist of? Sweet Almond Oil, Peppermint Oil, Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Tea Tree Oil, Lavender Oil, Rosemary Oil and more! or

PAPAYA CASTOR SCALP MASSAGING SERUM

This daily scalp treatment was formulated to provide hydration and nourishment at the root. It’s a lightweight serum that readily absorbs into

BREAKAGE

Round One: Products

JOJOBA MONOI STRENGTHENING DEEP CONDITIONER

Another OG customer fave, this deep conditioner is thick and packed with nutrients. It treats hair that’s damaged from daily manipulation, heat styling, coloring or over-processing. It penetrates strands with moisture, locks it in, and smoothes out the cuticle, boosting the hair’s overall strength and integrity. It’s key ingredients are Jojoba Oil, Tiare Flower, Coconut Oil, Chamomile, Sweet Almond Oil, Castor Oil, and Tea Tree Oil. or

ALMOND MARSHMALLOW SPLIT END REPAIR MASQUE

This masque has incredible slip! It melts right into the hair and smoothes out frayed ends. It infuses restorative ingredients into each strand, protecting the hair from snagging or becoming rough and brittle. Sweet Almond Oil, Marshmallow Root Extract, Cocoa Butter, Aloe Vera and Coconut Oil are its top performing ingredients.

Round Two: Protective Styles

MINI BRAIDS

Shelter-in-place has inspired many to try out DIY protective styles like this one. Mini braids are a series of small braids installed on natural hair, no extensions added. It’s super cute, and the style can last for weeks if the hair and scalp are regularly moisturized and cared for. or

KNOTLESS BRAIDS

Trending right now, this style is very similar to traditional box braids, except the braiding hair isn’t added at the root. Instead, the extensions are gradually added to a person’s natural hair in small portions as the braid continues down, feed-in style. The result is: more “natural” looking roots, with less weight, tension and pulling. Knotless braids can last for many weeks, if the hair and scalp are properly cared for on a regular basis.

Round Two: Practices

SCALP OILING

Oiling the scalp is self-explanatory. It’s a way to alleviate itching, prevent dandruff and promote growth. While a number of different oils can be used, it’s important to opt for those that easily absorb into the skin to assure the scalp is actually reaping benefits. Some examples: Peppermint oil, Tea Tree Oil, Coconut Oil and Jojoba Oil. Many routinely treat their scalp with oil on a daily or every other day basis. or

COWASHING

Co-washing is a practice intended to remove buildup between regular shampoos. Essentially, it means using a conditioner to wash the hair. Cowashes are conditioners containing very gentle cleansing agents that can break down product build-up on the scalp and hair while also infusing moisture back into them. Co-washing does not replace regular shampoo sessions, but it can be especially beneficial to those prone to buildup. As an example, if a person normally shampoos every 10 days, on day 5, they would co-wash.

Meet Briana

Hailing from Sewell, New Jersey, Briana Lockman is a graduate of Rutgers University, where she received a B.A. in English and Entrepreneurship. With a passion for clean beauty and natural hair care, Lockman is the Assistant Marketing Manager for the much-loved brand EDEN BodyWorks. She is fueled by female empowerment and hopes to inspire women in the workforce. In her free time, Briana finds joy in her faith, family, and outdoor activities.