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Big Sky Weekly

Big Sky

Big Sky’s Locally Owned & Published Newspaper - distributed virtually everywhere

October 21, 2011 Volume 2 // Issue #19

off-season escapes

Mountain biking near Moab, UT

Tax Board candidates

Vote Best of Big Sky 15th annual

Ice festival Update: Spanish Peaks Bankruptcy

media@theoutlawpartners.com

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Photo by elevated productions

special section: travel

Big Sky Weekly

Publisher of the big sky weekly

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The Outlaw Partners have officially owned the Big Sky Weekly for one year, and we did the math:

Newspapers printed: 106,000+ Readers reached: .5 million & counting!

2011 big sky chamber of commerce

Business of the Year

CEO, PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Ladd

Distribution Point of the Week: Food Farm Shopping Center

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Mike Martins

The Food Farm Shopping Center located in Gardiner, MT is one of our most popular distribution points. The locals and visitors of Gardiner pick up over a hundred and fifty Big Sky Weekly papers every two weeks. Not only do they have a large inventory of groceries, fresh produce, and an in-store bakery, but the owners Larry and Deb are always there with smiles on their faces.

Next time you’re passing through Gardiner stop in for their delicious donuts and pick up a Big Sky Weekly on your way out.

MANAGING EDITOR Emily Stifler GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kelsey Dzintars EDITOR Abbie Digel Assistant Editor Taylor Anderson

Distribution Director Danielle Chamberlain VIDEOGRAPHER Brian Niles Designer/videographer Chris Davis community relations / account strategist Kacey Brown CONTRIBUTors Tyler Allen, Grayson Bell, Victoria Bentley, Erin Bills, Allen Bootmaker, Aubrey Davis, Jamie Daugaard, Elevated Productions, Nick Engelfried, Felicia Ennis, Holly Gumz, Victoria Guzman, Marcie Hahn-Knoff, Turney Jones, Joe Josephson, Rene Kraus, Cameron Lord, Whit Magro and Brandon Niles, Hunter Rothwell, Amy Smit, Tom Watson Lane, Josh Wharton

Editorial Policy

Outlaw Partners LLC is the sole owner of the Big Sky Weekly. No part of this publication may be reprinted without written permission from the publisher. The Big Sky Weekly reserves the right to edit all submitted material for content, corrections or length. Printed material reflects the opinion of the author and is not necessarily the opinion of Outlaw Partners or the editors of this publication.

No advertisements, columns, letters to the editor or other information will be published that contain discrimination based on sex, age, race, religion, creed, nationality, sexual preference, or are in bad taste.

Paper Distribution

Distributed every other Friday in towns across Southwest Montana, including Big Sky, Bozeman, West Yellowstone, Three Forks , Ennis, Dillon, Gardiner and Livingston.

ADVERTISING DEADLINE For November 18 issuE: November 11 CORRECTIONS The Big Sky Weekly runs corrections to errors we’ve printed. Please report them to emily@theoutlawpartners.com

2 October 21, 2011

Here are the categories: Best burger Best burrito Best pizza Best cup of coffee Best place to grab a drink Best venue for live music Best place to see visiting celebrities Best outdoor shop Best restaurant Best business ~ MVP Award Most extreme local Favorite downhill ski trail Favorite local band

Every dollar counts

Sales Director Frank Jordan

© 2011 The Big Sky Weekly Unauthorized reproduction prohibited

The Best of Big Sky is back!

Now is your chance to give love to your favorite local business, restaurant, watering hole and ski trail. Go to explorebigsky.com/bestof to vote for your favorites. The winners will be announced in the December 23 issue of the Big Sky Weekly.

October 21, 2011 Volume 2, Issue 19

COO & SENIOR EDITOR Megan Paulson

To respect the shoulder season, the Weekly has decided to print fewer issues this fall.

Look for our next paper November 18.

I was recently reminded of the value and importance of spending money locally. With the cool fall weather in place, I spent my Sunday cutting firewood. When I needed replacement parts for my chainsaw, I went down to Big Sky’s True Value Hardware store – The Merc.

As always, the staff there was friendly, helpful and told fun stories about local weather, politics and hunting. The parts I needed were out of stock, but instead of getting “no” for an answer, I was offered The Merc’s personal stock. I left happy to have spent my money locally and was confident the customer service I received wasn’t something I would’ve gotten at a box store.

As we fight the economic recession, we must think about our spending habits. Spending locally promotes an economy’s health and ability to recover

from hard times. Every dollar spent at a locally owned business generates two to four times more economic benefit than a dollar spent at a globally owned business. That benefit is measured in local income, wealth, jobs and tax revenue; it pumps up the so-called economic multiplier, a study that proves a locally spent dollar usually turns into $3 within a year of being spent. Think of the impact this has in economies like Big Sky, and other small towns in Southwest Montana.

I have a challenge for all of us: Consider your actions when spending money on a gallon of milk or buying new ski gear or shopping for holiday gifts. It’s easy to get swept up in online shopping or into the herd at box stores. But local business owners are the core of our society and represent over 58 percent of our country’s economic activity.

Letter to the Editor Parameters This is a platform for readers to express views and share ways they would like to effect change. The Weekly will run letters, positive or negative, of 250 words or less that are respectful, ethical, state accurate facts and figures, and are proofread for grammar and content. We reserve the right to edit letters. Please include: first and last name, address, phone number and title.

Send letters to emily@theoutlawpartners.com.

OUTLAW PARTNERS & THE BIG SKY WEEKLY P.O. Box 160250, Big Sky, MT 59716 explorebigsky.com (406) 995-2055 media@theoutlawpartners.com

explorebigsky.com

Want to make a difference? Shop locally. Encourage local business, government entities and groups to invest back into their communities. Trust that business owners will be smart about taking money and investing it back into their companies, their employees and their communities.

It’s time to take our fate into our own hands. Let’s start a grassroots campaign and make our local economies stronger. Every dollar counts.

Has keeping money local helped your business? Why do you believe in this?

What you do to keep money local?

Tell us your story and we’ll share it with Weekly readers. Let’s build a ‘buy local’ movement right here.

Yours, Eric Ladd eric@theoutlawpartners.com

Table of Contents Community...4

Architecture...25

Local News...6

Business Directory...26

Regional...11

Events...28

Montana...15 Youth...17 Sports...19 Outdoors...21 Health & Wellness...20 Business...23

Environment...29 Column...29 Classifieds...30 Fun...31 Back 40...32 Special Section: Travel...33

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Big Sky Weekly

community New climbing boulders for Bozeman Boulders proposed for Big Sky

By Emily Stifler

managing editor, big sky weekly

Forty people gathered to celebrate the opening of Bozeman’s last two artificial climbing boulders on a Saturday in mid-October. Kids scaled the 12-foot rock walls, some in sticky rubber climbing shoes, some in sneakers, and several wearing dresses.

Built in Regional Park (also known as Dinosaur Park), these were the final boulders in a city-supported parks project that built six climbing rocks spread across town. The project will eventually connect them with walking and biking paths.

store, supported most of the city’s new boulders, donating proceeds from the sale of climbing equipment and bringing renowned climber Lynn Hill to town for a fundraising slideshow last winter.

“Bozeman is recognized as an outdoor community,” said Terry Cunningham, a member of the Bozeman Boulder Initiative, the non-profit that spearheaded the project over the last three years. “It’s important that the city provide resources to continue that legacy.”

Part of an annual giving program, this year’s REI grant supported volunteerism and stewardship. So although Stronghold Fabrication built the Regional Park boulders, volunteers helped throughout the process, from tying on metal lathe, to spreading wood chips around the base.

Plus, Cunningham says, bouldering is free, and accessible to everyone. “There’s no start up capital, and no fancy equipment necessary…[The boulders have] problems that would challenge world-class climbers, and there are faces that kids can tackle.”

Northern Lights Trading Post, a Bozeman outdoor

Mountain Bike alliance receives grant to add new trail signage A group of mountain bikers have received a grant to put signage up on Big Sky area trails.

Initially, the Big Sky Mountain Bike Alliance plans to work on the popular Porcupine drainage south of Big Sky, the upper North Fork trail and Second Yellow Mule.

“Second Yellow Mule is not signed, and there are a few junctions in the Porcupine drainage that aren’t marked, so it can be confusing,” said Jessie Wiese Neal, a spokesperson for the group. Now, Neal says, if hikers, bikers, and horsemen have a map marking the trail numbers, they’ll be able to see a trail sign with the same trail number.

The grant is from the Southern Montana Resource Advisory Council, a federal resource

advisory committee made up of citizens to provide advice and recommendations on public land management that reports to the Department of Agriculture. The mountain biking alliance applied for and received $1,500 from the RAC. The RAC is composed of citizens appointed by the Secretary of the Interior to staggered three-year terms.

The Mountain Biking Alliance formed in spring 2011 with a mission to promote growth and sustainability of the Big Sky mountain culture, Neal said. The group works to educate bikers about yielding to hikers, horsemen and other trail users. They have approximately 100 members. E.S.

REI jumped on board for the final two rocks, giving $10,000 through its annual Market Based Grant. Half of that money went to the boulders, and half will go to the Gallatin Valley Land Trust’s work to upgrade nearby trails.

REI’s outreach specialist Teresa Larson said that the Bozeman store’s grant program could also include projects in nearby towns like Big Sky, Ennis, Livingston and Big Timber.

Several other Montana towns have proposed installing climbing boulders to their parks. The Big Sky Community Corp. is looking to add two at the community park in the meadow.

Working together to support children and families in Big Sky Yellowstone Club Community Foundation is hosting a day of inspiration and planning at Ophir School, Nov. 8. Local non-profits will discuss changes in state and federal funding for non-profit organizations that provide support and services to families and children in Montana.

The group will strategize on how best to work together and maximize programs and funding in Big Sky.

Representatives will be there from Ophir School, the Montana’s Children’s Defense Fund, the YCCF, Big Brothers Big Sisters, Women in Action, Big Sky Youth Empowerment, Thrive, Morningstar Learning Center, and the Big Sky Community Corporation. The discussions will last from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

RSVP to Jacque at: jacque.poertner@yellowstoneclub.com

New owners renovate Bozeman Hot Springs Bozeman Hot Springs and Fitness in Four Corners has new ownership and a new look. The facility was closed for two weeks in early October for renovations, and the new owners Tom and Robyn Duffy celebrated the grand opening Oct. 16. Open seven days a week, call (406) 586-6492 for hours.

Big Sky Rotary Club holiday project

Raising the Boards: About 20 members of the Big Sky Skating and Hockey Association spent Oct. 15 assembling the donated set of boards for the Big Sky Ice Rink.

The group plans to ramp up opportunities for the whole community in its second season. Photo Courtesy of victoria guzman

4 October 21, 2011

explorebigsky.com

The Rotary Club of Big Sky will be sponsoring the Holiday Giving Tree again this year. As in the past, the tree will be in the Post Office entrance. Angels and stockings with suggested gifts for some children of the community will be hanging on the tree. Please take an angel or a stocking for a monetary donation, and return the unwrapped gift or donation to either American Bank, First Security Bank or Big Sky Western Bank no later than Dec. 2, 2011.

community 12 Montana tourism facility improvement projects awarded $530,000 in Montana Department of Commerce Grants Big Sky Community Corp. receives $50,000 for community park project The Montana Department of Commerce has approved the award of $530,000 from the Tourism Infrastructure Investment Program (TIIP) for tourism-related facility improvement projects in Big Sky, Butte, Bynum, Choteau, Glasgow, Great Falls, Helena, Huntley Project, Kalispell, Missoula and Red Lodge.

Schwinden approved the TIIP grant funding for the tourism facility projects following recommendations from Department of Commerce staff and the state’s Tourism Advisory Council. The twelve TIIP grant recipients were selected from 30 applications requesting just under $2 million in grants from the program.

“The 2011 TIIP grant funds are re-investing Montana’s tourism tax dollars into the improvement of key tourism facilities. These projects will help attract visitors to Montana and keep them here longer – spending more money in our main street businesses,” said Montana Department of Commerce Director Dore Schwinden. “These projects also benefit Montana residents through local investments and upgrading and improving the facilities.”

“This year’s TIIP grant investment leverages $2.6 million from other state, private and national funding sources to finance these projects.

This investment supports local construction jobs, the state’s building supply and service industry, and strengthens Montana’s visitor appeal,” Schwinden said.

Big Sky Weekly

Integrity.

Vision.

Craft.

The Big Sky Community Corp. received $50,000 for the Community Park Project.

Big Sky Mountain Trails, Recreation and Parks Special District to become reality big sky weekly staff writer

On October 18, 2011, the Madison County Commission passed the Big Sky Mountain Trails, Recreation and Parks Special District. The Commission passed the final resolution 3-0, citing no opposition in the 30-day comment period. This achieves the almost yearlong goal of creating a multi-jurisdictional district, which will allow Big Sky to maintain control of the parks and trails within the area. Gallatin County passed a similar resolution in July and both have approved an interlocal agreement, which will allow the contiguous districts to be administered by one board with representation from both counties. Board positions will be advertised for 30 days by each county, prior to appointment, bringing this process to completion.

Big Sky Community Library news The Friends of the Library annual meeting is Wednesday, Nov. 2 at 10 a.m. in the library. A progress report will be presented for the library’s fiscal year, and the FOL board will be elected for the 11/12 year. Come cast your vote, enjoy some treats, and get a short tutorial on new features in the Destiny catalog.

The library needs volunteers to help prepare books for automation and shelving, and the biannual used book sale is coming up Nov. 15 and 16. To help, call FOL Chair, Kay Reeves at 600-7152 or Kathy House at 995-4281 ext. 205

The Library recently received two donations: $500 from The Buck and Helen Knight foundation, and $1,242 from Paul Pariser and the Paul and Sue Fund. These generous gifts will go toward new computers and other materials.

Become a member of Friends of the Library by downloading a form at bigskylibrary.org, or by showing up at the Nov. 2 meeting. If you’d like to honor a friend or loved one with a shelf dedication, visit bigskylibrary.org and click on ‘FOL’, ‘ways to support’, or call the library at 995-4281 ext. 205.

406-995-2174 To view a video tour of this property visit: continentalconstruction.com/montana explorebigsky.com October 21, 2011 5

Big Sky Weekly

local news

First Big Sky Business Conference and Expo made a mark Included 14 speakers, 17 exhibitors and 93 total attendees

By Abbie Digel

nesses need to use that information, and run with it.

Both small and large business owners can benefit from social media, according to the speakers at one of the afternoon sessions of the Big Sky Business Conference and Expo, held at Buck’s T-4 on Oct. 6.

While the audience took notes and asked questions, exhibitor tables lined the outskirts of the banquet hall. One of the exhibitors included trippons.com, an online coupon platform that specializes in resort and college towns.

editor, big sky weekly

“Facebook isn’t [just] for young people anymore,” said Chris Syme, principal of CKSyme.org and new media strategist.

Syme, one of 14 speakers at the inaugural business expo, also spoke about the importance of creating a strategy around the different platforms available.

“In the end, social media is about finding a way to beneficially fit into someone’s life, and finding those people,” said Eric Lindeen of Zoot Enterprises, a Bozeman-based credit solutions organization.

Surprisingly, the fastest growing segment on Facebook is women 55 and older, Lindeen added. Busi-

on her to-do list. Although Discovery Maps and Guides already uses a multi-media approach to its business, Feigle learned new ways to reach more customers through developing phone apps and creating a Twitter account. She also made new local contacts in Big Sky.

“I was impressed by the variety of speakers, and all the steps that go into “Having running a the busisuccessful ness expo in Big marketing camSky helps -Debbie Feigle, Discovery Maps and paign,” said me break Guides of Bozeman Chelsea into this Clark from market Moonlight Basin Guest Services. easier, and network with the local business owners, and explore a new Robin Brower-McBride, memberplace,” said Kim Lugthart of tripship director of the Big Sky Champons.com. ber of Commerce, coordinated the conference, and said it was bigger Debbie Feigle, of Discovery Maps than she expected. and Guides of Bozeman agreed. The conference “blew away my expectations,” she said.

“There were people who only registered for one session who were begging me to let them stay,” Feigle left with a pile of brochures Brower-McBride said. “We’ve been and information, and “100 things”

“The conference blew away my expectations”

OUR TOWN IS GROWING

AND NEEDS YOUR HELP

Big Sky residents, visitors and commuters now have the chance to give input on the town they know and love, thanks to a new website, bigskyfuture.com.

Using survey questions, the site will collect insight into the Big Sky community, starting Friday, Oct. 21. Participants will be asked to share their desires, ideas and suggestions.

The site was created by a new local group called Big Sky Future, and has been in its development phase for three months.

bigskyfuture.com is a unique opportunity to make Big Sky your own. It takes just 15 minutes to take our online survey, but the benefits could last for generations.

6 October 21, 2011

explorebigsky.com

So, without a budget or backup, Brower-McBride gathered speakers, exhibitors and a venue in just a couple of months. Sessions included finance, Internet marketing, growth strategies and staffing solutions.

“We had great feedback from the attendees,” Marne Hayes, Executive Director of the Big Sky Chamber of Commerce. “The conference was a good indicator that businesses are hungry for knowledge.”

Hayes said this year’s conference will kick-off another year of regularly scheduled seminars sponsored by the Chamber.

Bigskyfuture.com will help create ‘a more sophisticated Big Sky’ Big SKy WEekly contributor

LET YOUR VOICE BE HEARD

“It was time for Big Sky to have its own business development opportunities and education,” BrowerMcBride said.

Marketing group introduces new survey site

By Turney Jones

BigSkyFuture.com

so busy today.”

Brower-McBride, who began her job at the Chamber last winter, recognized that businesses in Big Sky had to travel elsewhere to attend seminars and learn new practices.

Big Sky resident Kacey Brown, the survey’s designer, has been researching and creating questions covering all aspects of Big Sky, including demographics, spending and travel habits, and wants and needs of residents and visitors.

The group will implement results into marketing and community improvements and projects.

Big Sky is constantly evolving and changing, Brown says, and most people have opinions and observations as to what could improve the community. Bigskyfuture.com will provide a platform for people to voice these opinions.

“This is an opportunity for those who love and care about Big Sky to take control,” Brown said. “We are part of such a unique and dynamic community; we should be utilizing all the different perspectives. Now is the time to collaborate on how to make Big Sky an even better place.”

It’s part of an economic movement to create a more sophisticated Big Sky. As incentive, every 30 days, participants will have the opportunity to win either a $49 value card from Moonlight Basin or a $50 gift card to Choppers Grub and Pub. Bigskyfuture.com will be active year round, Brown said, and the types of surveys will change depending on insight and results from the initial general survey.

Big Sky Weekly

local news

Spanish Peaks files Chapter 7

By Taylor anderson

assistant editor, big sky weekly

In a flash fire move that left more than 100 employees jobless and members wondering what they’ll lose, Spanish Peaks Holdings II filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy in a court in Delaware in the second week of October.

The move comes just days after owner owners sent letters to members and employees saying it had released all staff and closed its doors indefinitely.

The club listed its assets in court filings at between $10,000,001 and $50,000,000 and its liabilities to creditors at between $100,000,001 and $500 million.

The club doesn’t quite parallel actions taken by the Yellowstone Club when it filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2008. That club remained open while during a court reorganization process and still operates today.

Because Spanish Peaks filed Chapter 7, the club will not continue operations, and its assets will be liquidated to cover its debts to creditors.

Letters to its members routinely cited the sad state of the real estate market to explain why it wouldn’t

remain in operation.

Sources close to the subject report that owners have begun a process of forming a legal group called an ad hoc to retain rights of ownership. The estimated 248 members will band together to control operations of the Spanish Peaks Owners Association, which controls security personnel and snow removal services.

Moonlight Basin Ski Resort followed the Yellowstone Club into Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2009, and today is owned by the Lehman Brothers investment group – which also has filed for Chapter 11.

Spanish Peaks Holdings II had a long list of debt collectors on its bankruptcy filings, and many of them are local entities.

The filings portray the effects a bad national economy has had on highpriced exclusive resorts in the Big Sky area.

Tune into explorebigsky.com for daily updates on the proceedings.

Or follow @TaylorWAnderson on Twitter. email: taylor@theoutlawpartners.com

New Moonlight lodging company owned and run by resort Resort triples marketing budget Moonlight Basin Resort is now operating its own lodging program through a new company, Moonlight Lodging in Big Sky.

new company will have seven full time employees and up to 25 seasonal employees. They’re still looking to hire a director of lodging.

For the last decade, the Utah-based East-West Resorts ran the lodging program at Moonlight, working as 50-50 partners, with Moonlight paying East-West a management fee.

Through this consolidation, Moonlight tripled its marketing budget, hoping to drive more lodging to Big Sky, Pack said. The website, staybigsky.com, should be up by the end of November.

It should make Moonlight more visible to potential guests, and also streamline the reservation process.

“We thought it was in our best interest to own and operate that lodging business ourselves,” said Greg Pack, the resort’s general manager.

The new company will offer cost advantages to both homeowners and renters, offering discounted lift ticket and spa packages, snow sports lessons and equipment rentals. They’ll continue to offer on-call transportation services and front desk service at the Moonlight Lodge.

Moonlight combined maintenance, front desk and service teams, retaining most of the employees who previously worked there through East-West. The

“Now we’re in a better position to market to our destination customers,” Pack said.

Using a Colorado public relations firm and the Big Sky-based marketing firm Outlaw Partners (publisher of the Big Sky Weekly), the resort is working to get national press about its “great lodging and incredible skiing,” Pack said.

“One thing that sets us apart is our premier properties… We have a wide variety of high-end properties that make it easy to access the skiing.” E.S.

Resort Tax compliance audits By amy smit

Big Sky Resort Area District staff

Big Sky’s local 3% resort tax helps fund several programs and services in our community. Despite this, some businesses may not be applying, collecting, or paying the tax correctly, while other business have over- collected, or undercollected.

Big Sky was designated a “resort area” by the Montana Department of Commerce in 1992 and the local electorate approved a 3 percent sales tax on certain goods and services.

This money is used to support tourism development, the post office, fire department, search and rescue, police department, community library, public transportation, parks and trails, water monitoring, music performances, forest health, community counseling, and other programs that enrich the quality of life inside the Big Sky Resort Area District (BSRAD).

Each month, local businesses report the amount of resort tax they collected. Of the 3 percent, they can keep 5 percent as an administrative fee. Tax collectors then remit this money to the District. The BSRAD Board of Directors oversees the tax management and appropriation on behalf of the Big Sky community.

The BSRAD also performs periodic “compliance audits” on Big Sky businesses. The idea is to ensure that busi-

nesses are applying the tax correctly, and that the correct amounts are being reported to the District. Dellinger & Gallagher, a CPA firm from Manhattan, performs these procedures. This firm has done similar resort tax compliance audits in West Yellowstone for many years.

In 2011, the Board split the tax collectors into two groups according to annual revenue, and five businesses from each group were examined. Some businesses were specifically chosen, but most were randomly selected.

The names of these businesses are not public record.

Of the 10 selected, four were in compliance with the District ordinance.

Two had underreported sales in the combined amount of $14,816, and three over-reported sales in the total amount of $20,734. One didn’t provide adequate information. The auditors also found a large discrepancy between sales, and sales reported to the District.

The BSRAD Board of Directors received the report in early October; it will examine the findings and take appropriate action.

If you have a question about the taxability of an item, or any other aspect of resort tax, contact the BSRAD office.

Office hours are Monday–Thursday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., and by appointment.

The new office is on the second floor of the RJS building in the Big Sky Town Center. bigskyresorttax.com

Chamber looking for new executive director Marne Hayes recently resigned from her position as Executive Director of the Big Sky Chamber of Commerce, a job she has held for the last decade.

“It is a bittersweet decision to leave the Chamber, as I will leave the job having loved it,” Hayes said in a written statement. “[I’ve] gained great experience and built [strong] working relationships… and I respect those enough to want to make sure there is no mistaking that this is a good and solid decision, one I put a lot of thought into.”

During her tenure, the Chamber’s membership more than doubled, and it grew from a small community organization to a convention and visitors’ bureau looking at long-term business development, economics and tourism, Hayes said.

The Chamber hopes to fill the position by the end of November. Hayes plans to remain in Big Sky, where she’s lived since 1993. E.S.

Montana Newspaper Association announces 2012 convention in Big Sky The Montana Newspaper Association’s annual convention will be at Bucks T-4 June 14-16, 2012. This is the first time in more than ten years the event will come to Big Sky. The convention is for members of the association and associate members, and brings and average of 150 people annually, said Linda Fromm from the MNA.

explorebigsky.com

October 21, 2011 7

Big Sky Weekly

local news

Tax Board Candidates 1. With no city council or governance, Big Sky residents must rule themselves at the local level. How do you fit in with the notion that resort tax is, in essence, the highest governance in an unincorporated town?

2. Everyone seems to have ideas as to what Big Sky town needs for growth and development. With input coming at you from all angles, how would you look to accept and collaborate others, and where would you draw a line and deal internally with the other board members?

Jeff Strickler

The Big Sky Weekly asked each of the five candidates running in the Big Sky Resort Tax Board elections four questions. The editorial staff chose two or three answers they thought best displayed candidates’ views and edited them for brevity. Ballots are sent to registered Big Sky voters in late October. Unregistered residents have until Nov. 8 to register at the Gallatin County Elections Office. Ballots are due Nov. 8 at 8 p.m.

3. Events are a hot issue in Big Sky--a stage was built to host weekly music during the summer, bull riding came to town, music festivals, etc. What do you think about appropriating money for businesses looking to bring in foot traffic for events?

4. You’ll be appropriating revenues while the national and global economies are in grim shape and look to stay that way. How do you think the Big Sky economy is impacted by the world around it?

Ginna Hermann evaluate proposals and make decisions:

rying out that purpose. I believe this allows us to support projects that help bring foot traffic to our Community. I believe in these kinds of projects, which is one of the reasons I’ve supported funding [for] the events, festivals and music performances that [are] a big part of our resort community.

These improve the quality of life [and] they bring people to Big Sky and directly and indirectly support our local businesses.

a) Most critical are those projects that are essential to the infrastructure of the Big Sky community. The best example was paying off of the bonds that allowed the repair of the sewer and water system.

In Big Sky since: 2005 Occupation: Retired pediatrician; Author 4. The national economy is a given that we all must live with. In tight times, small communities, especially in resort areas, have to work harder to survive and prosper. We as a Resort Tax Area need to be judicious with our use of dollars just as we are individually at home and in our businesses.

To do this, expenditures need to be reasoned and reasonable.

I have four criteria in descending order of priority that I would use to

b) Second are those things that mitigate the effect of the huge influx of tourists here. Funding ambulance and equipment purchase by the Fire Department falls here. Although the Fire District has a taxing capability, it seems inappropriate for local property taxpayers to foot all this bill when visitors represent half the emergency calls. c) Third are projects that improve the quality of life in Big Sky for both locals and visitors [like] concerts, music festivals, and your community library. d) Finally, I would consider proposals that designed to bring business and improve the economy of Big Sky--the caveat being they would generate a net increase in Resort Tax revenues. The Biggest Skiing in America campaign has done this well, and done it during a recession.

(running as an incumbent to fulfill second two years of her four-year term).

In Big Sky since: 1999 Occupation: Fundraiser 3. Unfortunately, the direct giving of money to businesses is not an option because the law says that Resort Tax Board grants cannot benefit a single individual, organization or corporation. All grants must instead benefit “the community at large” and also must be given to legal entities capable of “legally and practically” car-

Michael John Romney

James Kabisch opinions about what we can do to improve the community. I’m experienced with working with limited resources, managing budgets, meeting targets and ultimately trying to meet our goals with a finite amount of resources. My job will be to gain a broad based understanding of the needs and wishes of the community and to deliver results as effectively as possible given the applicable resource constraints. With regard to collaborating with the Board Members, they’re a group of experienced and intelligent mix of community members who have given their time and energy to help better the community and whom I respect. I’m looking forward to working with them, understanding their points of view and perspectives, and ultimately making the best decisions for the community.

In Big Sky since: 2008 Occupation: Commercial and residential property owner 2. I strongly agree we need to promote growth and development. I have access to and can relate to all types of people in the community, from the seasonal workers, to the young couples raising families here, to the empty-nesters, retirees and vacationers. Everyone has ideas and

8 October 21, 2011

4. The Big Sky community, on an annual basis, reflects many of the same needs and difficulties of the world beyond Big Sky: families in crisis, libraries needing funding, a shrinking economy, and the difficulty of funding the services that are needed by the community, including the post office, the fire department, and the police. With Resort Tax funds often insufficient to fund all worthy projects, my role is to ensure the Board does the careful and detailed analysis needed to help best prioritize these needs and determine how funds can be used in the most effective manner.

3. I’m 100 percent supportive of the idea of putting money behind events. Events promoted by the Arts Council and things like the PBR are a benefit to the community and the quality of life here. They bring tourists and part-timers here, more often growing the community and revenues to support our local families and businesses. They help put Big Sky “on the map.”

explorebigsky.com

In Big Sky since: 2005 Occupation: Banker 2. Having a dialogue with the public regarding different allocation topics will be helpful. I’m not an expert in most topics coming before the board, which is why I’m going to need to have discussion regarding the requests with members of the community that have [expertise] or a history of working with an issue.

3. Events are great for Big Sky. I think that the BSRAD Board will need to evaluate each event request individually. [An event must] also make sense for the community as a whole. Generally, I support bringing more people to Big Sky, and doing it through event promotion. I’m not supportive of poorly run events, or events that benefit a single promoter without broad economic impact in our community.

4. We need an increase in the number of people visiting Big Sky annually. Visitors are the lifeblood of this community, and we need more to fill our local retailers, restaurants and beds.

Big Sky Weekly

local news Loren Bough

Mike Scholz of the investment for the event measured by both tangible and intangible benefits to the community.

4. This brings up community issues that are just as important today as they were 20 years ago when we created the BSRAD. With the tax, citizens and guests pay 3 percent extra because local businesses in effect raise the price of luxury goods and tourism and recreational services by 3 percent. The benefits provided by the board’s allocation decisions need to justify the costs both paying and collecting the tax.

A balanced approach [would] address several key issues:

In Big Sky since: 2003 Occupation: President of Friends of Big Sky Education

In Big Sky since: 1972 Occupation: Co-Owner Buck’s T-4

2. Residents of Big Sky are often frustrated with the lack of one place to be heard on issues. The seasonality of residents, diverse geography of the community, and wide-ranging ideologies make it difficult to find a forum for expression. The Resort Tax application process, always held in public meeting format, is a well-recognized venue to make suggestions to who we are as a community and how we operate.

3. Appropriating money for private businesses looking to bring in foot traffic for events is not within the BSRAD legal authority. Allocations can only be made to qualified 501-3C organizations, which could be composed of member businesses and community partners.

•

Provide for underfunded needs for public health and safety issues for both citizens and visitors protection

•

Promote economic growth and development for the advancement of a healthy and giving community through growing resort tax collections

I support Resort Tax allocations [that] stand to generate more [tax] revenue. One of the primary goals as written into statute of the Big Sky Resort Tax was to increase tourism visitation through promotion.

Events can help reach that goal, [but] only through public-private partnerships. Private businesses aren’t eligible (nor would it be appropriate for them to be) to receive public funds.

•

Help provide public services and activities expected of a world class resort and thoughtful community

3. Resort Tax has a broad legal mandate to increase tourism in our community. As traditional media advertising has failed to deliver the boost our economy needs, Resort Tax has experimented, wisely in my opinion, with limited event promotion to increase the number of visitors, and increase the likelihood they stay and spend. These events can be viewed as self-funding--bringing 2,000 visitors to Big Sky for a concert or rodeo has a DIRECT positive impact on Resort Tax revenues AND local businesses. I expect we will see more economic modeling of the specific monetary impact each event can bring, and our funding decisions will be made based on these models.

As to events [that] increase foot traffic, they can qualify if sponsored by a qualified organization.

Their ability to be funded will depend on the amount available, priorities of the community for a given year, and the Board’s decision as to the return

These are the same issues we stressed to the Montana Legislature in 1989 to convince them to allow a non-incorporated area like Big Sky to willingly tax ourselves and our customers to achieve our community’s goals. They’re the same issues that convinced our community to vote in favor of the resort tax.

From year to year, the balance between these three areas has varied with circumstance. We have to react accordingly.

Four years of taxes

With elections this November, tax board will change

By Taylor Anderson

assistant editor, big sky weekly

In an unincorporated town like Big Sky, folks are set out to govern themselves. Volunteerism runs rampant, and the best way to get things done is often to collaborate interests.

“An important advantage of a locally controlled [tax] board is the ability to be creative in our attempts to support the community,” said Loren Bough, who is running for his second term on the board.

Since 1993, the Big Sky Resort Area District has assigned or elected a tax board to oversee collection and distribution of a 3 percent sales tax known as the Resort Tax. Six other Montana towns have enacted resort taxes.

The idea was originally spearheaded behind the idea that tourists were frequenting the area and straining infrastructure and emergency services.

After three attempts to pass the Montana Legislature, the tax was approved.

“We don’t necessarily plan what Big Sky needs,” said Al Malinowski, the board’s chairman. “We say here’s how much money we have, here’s what you’ve asked for.”

Sometimes questioned for being a sales tax in a state without one, the tax has generated nearly $32 million in its 18 years, and each year is passed out to businesses and non-profits that make grant proposals to the board.

Last June, the board finished appropriations with a surplus of more than $180,000, which will be available to the community next year.

“The great thing about resort tax is that it’s not like it goes to Helena,” Malinowski said. “So much government is, ‘If you don’t spend it, you’re not gonna get to use it next year.”

The board sometimes has to make tough decisions that affect the community.

In June, they denied funding to four groups, one of which was the Morningstar Learning Center childcare and preschool – the only state certified childcare provider in Big Sky. The board voted down the center’s request of $60,000 because it decided it didn’t help a wide enough array of the community.

“This has to benefit a sizable amount of the community and in my opinion

this doesn’t meet that,” Malinowski said after the appropriations meeting last June.

The volunteer five-member board meets throughout the year to discuss revenues and consider where money should be allocated throughout town.

“When organizations deliver on their goals and budgets year after year, our job is easy,” Bough said. “Conversely, we occasionally need to make hard choices based on results and budgets, not on personal opinion.”

About a third of the tax has been used for infrastructure improvements, a majority of this going to the Water and Sewer District.

In the early ‘90s, the community reached capacity with the sewage system that was in place, and a moratorium was placed on construction until the problem was fixed. The WSD received a permit to begin dumping wastewater into the streams that run into the Gallatin River, Malinowski said.

To deal with this, the board of advisors reached an agreement in 1996 that allocated the lesser of $500,000 or 50 percent of the tax revenues each year to WSD devel-

opment until 2012. No water was dumped into the creeks. $8.2 million has gone to emergency services like the fire and sheriff departments, as well as Big Sky Search and Rescue and the volunteer ski patrol.

The Big Sky Transportation District has received about $4.5 million since 1993.

During the last four-year term BSRAD collected $10,622,486.52, 33 percent of total revenues in its history. The growth is due to an increase in population and tourist traffic leading up to the recession.

Revenues collected have dipped steadily since 2008 in the midst of recession.

Five candidates this November are running for three open spots on the tax board. Al Malinowski, Les Loble and Lance Child are all stepping down after two terms.

“I know we’re never gonna make everybody happy. I don’t think in eight years I’ve walked out of those meetings and said everything went the way I wanted it to,” Malinowski said.

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October 21, 2011 9

Big Sky Weekly

10 October 21, 2011

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Big Sky Weekly

regional

Hot women on ice

15th annual Arc’teryx Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival gearing up for the popular women’s clinic and other events

By Joe Josephson

Big Sky Weekly Contributor

The 15th annual Arc’teryx Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival is planning for four days of ice climbing instruction in Hyalite Canyon and nightly events at Bozeman’s Emerson Theater, Dec. 7–11, 2011.

One of the highlights of the weekend is the Women’s Only Clinic on Friday, Dec. 9. Started in 2007 by Bozeman’s Amy Bullard, an Everest climber, the clinic is so popular it’s sold out every year.

“The Bozeman women’s clinic is the best of its kind anywhere in the country,” said Kitty Calhoun, who is one of the most accomplished American women alpinists.

Featuring full-day instruction and mentorship in Hyalite Canyon, 60 women spend the day in creative clinics titled, “Ice Goddess 101,” “The Ultimate Isis” and “Leaving the Nest,” led by the best female climbers and mountain guides in the world.

The women’s clinic lineup will include Jeannie Wall from Bozeman; Margo Talbot, Sarah Hueniken and Lilla Molnar from Canada; Mattie Sheafor from Jackson; Kim Reynolds, founder of the popular Chicks with Picks ice program; and Dawn Glanc, winner of the 2010 Ouray International Ice Climbing Competition.

The 2010 women’s clinic was “the most positive experience I have ever had sharing a rope with someone,” said Robin Brower-McBride from Big Sky.

Arc’teryx athlete Audrey Garipey leads a Women’s-Only Clinic at the 2010 Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival. Photo by Ari Novak.

Clinics include use of all the necessary gear, including top-of-the-line boots, crampons, axes, harnesses, helmets and clothing.

Following the six-hour climbing day, the Thursday night Ladies Night at the Emerson features “All That Glitters,” a show by Canadian climber and author Margo Talbot, sponsored by Outdoor Research. Margo will also be available to sign copies of her new memoir.

“The Bozeman women’s clinic is the best of its kind anywhere in the country” -accomplished Alpinist Kitty Calhoun

Clinics are already filling up with women from as far away as New York, Maine, Colorado and California. Additional clinics open to anyone are presented on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.

Evening events on the weekend include a two-part retrospective on the past 40 year history of ice climbing in North America, featuring ice climbing pioneers like Jeff Lowe, Yvon Chouinard, Henry Barber, Barry Blanchard, Kitty Calhoun and Will Gadd. The festival wraps on Sunday, Dec. 11 with a spaghetti feast and gear raffle in the Emerson Ballroom.

Home to over 225 routes, Hyalite Canyon offers the most reliable, concentrated and accessible ice climbing in America. The ice climbing season in Hyalite runs from mid November through the end of March. hyalite.org Tickets for all clinics and nightly events are available at bozemanicefest.com.

Taylor Fork gets weathered

By Marcie Hahn-knoff Big Sky Weekly Contributor

This winter, backcountry users will have a new source of weather data in the Taylor Fork, in the Madison Range south of Big Sky. The seasonal station will provide hourly real time data via satellite to internet on temperature, relative humidity, average wind speed, max wind speed and wind direction. It will compliment the Carrot Basin SNOTEL site and give a more encompassing picture of conditions in the area.

Installed by the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center this fall, the Taylor Fork weather station was purchased with funds raised by the Friends of the GNFAC. It will be a resource for the avalanche center, area ski patrols,

and for recreational backcountry users. It is one of four similar stations, which are meant to provide weather data, especially wind information, for popular, high use backcountry areas near Cooke City, Lionhead and Hyalite.

The weather stations can be accessed by the general public off of the GNFAC website at mtavalanche.com/weather The Friends of the GNFAC are a 501-C-3 non-profit dedicated to supporting avalanche education and awareness in Southwest Montana. They also provide the avalanche center with tools to better forecast avalanche and weather conditions. mtavalanche.com or facebook.com/friendsgnfac Photo courtesy of GNFAC

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Big Sky Weekly

regional

Yellowstone fall closing dates Yellowstone National Park

The signs of fall in Yellowstone are everywhere autumn colors, bugling elk, fewer people. As the season winds down, there is still a little time to come and enjoy the park – hike, bike, drive, take photos, watch wildlife, geyser gaze, etc. Do it soon, though, as only a few facilities remain open.

Snow Lodge, cabins, and restaurant – Sunday, Oct. 23

Lewis Lake Campground – Saturday, Nov. 5 Geyser Grill, Bear Den Gift Shop – Sunday, Nov. 6 Mammoth Campground is open year-round Old Faithful Visitor Education Center – Sunday, Nov. 6

The last day that each road/facility is open, is as follows:

CANYON VILLAGE AREA: Wrecker Service – Monday, Oct. 10

ROADS: Tower Fall to Canyon Junction over Dunraven Pass – Monday, Oct. 10 (closes 8 a.m. Oct. 11)

Canyon Service Station – Sunday, Oct. 16 (24-hr credit card pay available)

Beartooth Pass – Sunday, Oct. 9. Gates close at Long Lake, 17 miles from the intersection of Wyo. 296 (Sunlight Basin), and US 212; and at the Montana Stateline, 25 miles from Red Lodge at 8 a.m. on Oct. 11, unless an early snow storm would close the road on the preceding weekend.

OLD FAITHFUL AREA: Old Faithful Inn, gift shop, deli, and dining room – Sunday, Oct. 9 Old Faithful Lower Service Station – Sunday, Oct. 16 (24-hr credit card pay available) Upper General Store – Monday, Oct. 17

Yellowstone tops three million visitors Yellowstone National Park

Canyon Visitor Education Center – Sunday, Oct. 16 Yellowstone Adventure Store – Sunday, Nov. 6 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS AREA: Hotel, dining room, cabins – Monday, Oct. 10 Service Station – Monday, Oct. 10 (24-hr credit card pay available) Gift Shop and Terrace Grill – Monday, Oct. 16 The General Store, post office, and the Albright Visitor Center are open all year, with a few exceptions.

Check the park newspaper or website for specifics.

CAMPGROUNDS: Madison Campground – Sunday, Oct. 23

The National Rural Health Association named three Montana Critical Access Hospitals to the Top 100 in America. Those included Barrett Hospital and HealthCare in Dillon, Community Hospital of Anaconda, and Sidney Health Center.

The top 100 were chosen from 1,750 rural hospitals based on their Hospital Strength Index,

For the second year in a row, more than half a million visitors spent their vacations in the park during the month of September alone, 3 percent below 2010’s record-breaking fall month.

Big SKy Weekly Staff writer

Yellowstone experienced back-to-back record visitation years in 2009 and 2010, with nearly 3.3 million visitors and over 3.6 million visitors, respectively. In 2010, the park recorded more than 223,000 visitors in October, November and December. nature.nps.gov/stats

Fall weather in and around Yellowstone can be unpredictable. Visitors should be prepared for winter weather and winter driving conditions, and are advised to have flexible travel plans. Updated information on park roads is available 24 hours a day by calling (307) 344-2117. nps.gov/yell

which offers objective measurements of relative performance among peers across 56 different performance metrics. The index offers hospital executives, trustees and boards of directors measurable performance indicators and metrics. The measures identify hospitals that are best prepared for continued success.

Céline Cousteau and Jon Bowermaster live at the Ellen Theater, Oct 25 Céline Cousteau and Jon Bowermaster, two oceanic experts, will headline an Oct. 25 fundraiser for Adventurers and Scientists for Conservation, a Bozemanbased non-profit. There will also be a live musical performance by Jawbone Railroad.

Cousteau, daughter of ocean explorer and filmmaker Jean-Michel Cousteau and granddaughter of the legendary Jacques Yves Cousteau, travels the world, studying the intersection of nature and culture. Cousteau’s work reveals a world interconnected, showing that protection of the environment is also protection for our diverse cultures.

The West Entrance recorded

visitors for the summer

This is the organization’s first major event since its inception in January 2011. The evening will also feature a silent auction and raffle with items including a week stay at a Mexican villa with explorer Capt. Joel S. Fogel,

12 October 21, 2011

All park roads except the road from Gardiner through Mammoth to Cooke City will close for the season Monday morning, Nov. 7, at 8 a.m.

The park’s North Entrance and the road to Cooke City remain open to wheeled vehicles all year, weather permitting. There could be up to 30-minute delays on the road between Tower Junction and Cooke City due to a bridge replacement project.

Two Legends, One Night

Jon Bowermaster is a noted oceans expert, award-winning journalist, author, filmmaker, adventurer and sixtime grantee of the National Geographic Expeditions Council. For 15 years, he’s explored the world’s oceans by foot, small plane, sailboat, cargo ship and sea kayak.

1.3 million

All facilities at Lake, Fishing Bridge, Tower/Roosevelt, and Grant Village, as well as most campgrounds, have closed for the season; although 24-hour pay at the pump fuel is available at all otherwise closed service stations.

Three Montana hospitals on list of top 100 rural critical access centers in U.S.

Rebounding from a lingering winter that included snow and ice well into May, and rockslides and avalanches that forced a few temporary road closures, Yellowstone National Park still managed to host more than 3 million visitors for its third consecutive summer season.

The West Entrance remained the park’s busiest, with nearly 210,000 visitors in September, and nearly 1.3 million for the summer, followed by the South, North, East and Northeast Entrances.

Slough Creek Campground – Sunday, Oct. 31

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a day of whitewater kayaking with expedition kayaker Trip Jennings, loads of outdoor gear, hotel stays and ski passes.

ASC connects outdoor athletes and scientists and has already sent expeditions to collect data on Mt. Everest plant life and Bar-headed geese on the highest migration on Earth; and to track grizzly bears in the Greater Yellowstone.

“We want to recruit an army of citizen-scientists who are willing to help the fight against climate change and human encroachment” says Founder Gregg Trienish.

Treinish was named 2008 National Geographic Adventurer of the Year for “Across the Andes,” the first recorded trek of the 7,800-mile spine of the Andes.

“The goal is to send hundreds of expeditions out and have them bring back the information we will need to manage the future of our wild areas.” adventureandscience.org Tickets are $20 and available at theellentheatre.com.

Big Sky Weekly

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Big Sky Weekly

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Mountain

Big Sky Weekly

montana Montana universities received $20 million grant for science and engineering office of the governor

The Montana University System recently received a $20 million, fiveyear grant from the National Science Foundation to strengthen the state’s science and engineering workforce with a program that will reach campuses and communities across Montana.

Gov. Schweitzer’s office was instrumental in securing $3.5 million in matching funds for the grant, the larg-

est ever received by the Montana NSF Experimental Program to Stimulate Competitive Research (EPSCoR).

Montana was one of the five states that joined NSF EPSCoR when the program began in 1980, and it’s now one of 27 participants. The program helps scientists and engineers in rural states become nationally competitive and assist states in building infrastructure.

It also builds state and federal partnerships that use science and engineering

to create new jobs and improve rural economies.

In Montana, the $20 million will allow hiring at least 12 new science and engineering faculty statewide; support undergraduate and graduate research; set up a math mentoring system for students in tribal colleges to help tribal high school students transition to higher education; and involve interactions with Montana businesses.

Montana State alumnus to give $25 million to MSU College of Business

Jabs grew up on a farm near Lodge Grass, Mont. with no indoor plumbing, electricity or running water and today is president and CEO of American

MSU President Waded Cruzado would like to use the gift for a new building for the College of Business. If approved, ground could be broken on the estimated $18 - $20 million building by spring 2013.

The gift will go toward new scholarships and academic programs in: entre-

preneurship, professional skills development and fostering cooperative work between business students and those in engineering, the sciences, agriculture, graphic arts and the humanities.

Last year, Jabs made a $3 million gift to MSU for the Jake Jabs Center for Entrepreneurship for the New West.

“I hope my gifts inspire others to contribute to the future of entrepreneurship education at MSU,” Jabs said.

NOW IS THE THE TIME OF YEAR TO BRING OUT YOUR HOME’S INNER BEAUTY.

Montana workers earning minimum wage will see an increase from $7.35 per hour to $7.65 per hour on Jan. 1, 2012.

Initiative 151, enacted by Montana voters in 2006, proposed raising the state’s minimum wage to be greater than either the current state or federal minimum wage. It also added an annual cost-of-living adjustment to the state minimum wage.

The increase is based on any increase in the U.S. City Average Consumer Price Index for All Urban Consumers for All Items (CPI) from August of the preceding year to August of the year in which the calculation is made. This amount will be rounded to the nearest five cents. mtwagehourbopa.com

YEARS OF LOCAL EXPERTISE

MSU alumnus Jake Jabs recently announced an unrestricted $25 million gift to MSU’s College of Business, the largest private gift made in the history of the Montana higher education system.

Furniture Warehouse in Denver, one of the country’s largest retail furniture companies.

Department of Labor and Industry

10+

MSU News Service

Montana’s minimum wage to increase

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October 21, 2011 15

Big Sky Weekly

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Big Sky Weekly

Section 2: southwest montana’s

October 21, 2011 Volume 2 // Issue #19

Life // Land // culture youth

Notes from the field: a look at the Lone Peak Big Horn inaugural season

By Grayson Bell

Big Sky Weekly Cub Reporter

Families are not always blood related.

Families don’t always live under the same roof. Families don’t always have the same last name. Families are sometimes made from friendship, love and hard work.

The Lone Peak Big Horns football team is a family.

“Our team has this bond, and it’s not only the juniors who are friends with juniors, but it’s the freshman and juniors, and age is not a factor on this team; we are one unit,” Tucker Shea, a junior running back and kicker, said.

The friendship between the teammates is apparent in practice, in games and in school.

“I feel like we’re a family, we all get along so well. It’s almost like we’re brothers.” freshman Trevor House said with a big smile on his face.

Since August, the Big Horns have been bonding physically and emotionally. They hit each other, pick each other back up, feed off of each other’s energy, they fight through the pains of losing together, and celebrate the joys of winning with one another.

There is no ‘I’ in team with these guys.

“Our team demands that we play at a certain level, and if one of us doesn’t reach that level, we never get there.

Football is a team game, and we have 23 people to help the cause,” junior Tommy Tosic said.

Out of the 23 boys, 11 are freshman.

They have the unique opportunity to be the present and future Big Horns, and have another three years to create a football culture.

The Lone Peak Big Horns have already set a football culture, and begun to set standards for themselves and for one another. They have a dominant defense and run game and are slowly setting a strong passing game behind the arm of freshman quarterback Justin McKillop. The team knows that they have the support from the community, the school, the parents, the coaches, but most of all they have support from each other.

The Big Horns have been working vigorously to make history every game.

“We can’t lower our standards of play because we’re a first-year team, we want the same thing every other team wants, to make the playoffs, win in the playoffs and bring home a trophy,” junior Jack Cruse said.

The team is very close to doing exactly that, and heading into a late-October game against conference rival Lima, the Bighorns are likely to reach the playoffs in the first season.

“Our entire team wants the same thing, we want to win. We’re great friends on the field and we love goofing around, but our team is very serious about winning,” Cruse said.

The freshmen, along with the rest of the team, know what they are doing, and what they have done is special.

“Having older more experienced players like Jake, Matt, and Tommy really helps our team. They understand the game better and they toughen us up.

They are helping us younger players get ready for the next three years,” House said.

“There is no other team that can say they were first. No other team can say they had the first win in Lone Peak history. We’re making history,” said Shea, who scored the first ever Big Horn touchdown.

But not all starters are juniors and seniors; both House and McKillop are freshmen that thrive in starting positions. House is a starting linebacker and recent “Big Hitter” winner. He plays with a fast, intense, smart style.

He comes up with big hits, causes fumbles, and is one of the few who recovers fumbles for the Big Horns.

As the starting quarterback has an accurate arm that can fire a ball down field, McKillop sees the field very well and makes smart decisions in the pocket.

In just about every game and practice, defensive lineman Tanner Burton will chase the opposing quarterback; he is a force to be reckoned with. In the Hot Springs game, freshman Quinn House came up big, catching two important passes from both sides of the field, one on defense for an interception, the other coming on an offensive touchdown.

The team has learned the game at a fast pace, and will keep enhancing their skills week in and week out. Every week the team seems to understand the game more and more, and the team begins to look like a well-oiled machine.

The Lone Peak Big Horns strive for excellence, and work hard and long at reaching their goals. Fall 2011 is only the beginning of Big Horn football.

As Gov. Brian Schweitzer says, “Those West Coast teams got nothin’ over Big Sky, this is real run and gun.”

Lone Peak playoffs

By Taylor Anderson

assistant editor, big sky weekly

After finishing its regular season 3–4 overall (2–3 in Western 6-Man Conference), the Lone Peak Big Horns are likely headed to the playoffs.

The team awaits a game between West Yellowstone (1–3 conference) and Hot Springs (3–1). Montana six-man rules take into account points in the event of a tie. The Big Horns hold a head-to-head tiebreak over West.

LPHS Volleyball

Photo by Abbie Digel

If Hot Springs beats West Yellowstone, Lone Peak will play the winner of a late October game between Fromberg/Roberts (ranked No. 7 in Montana) and Denton (No. 2).

Lone Peak (No. 49) lost its last regular season game at home to the Lima Bears (No. 44), 58-12.

Three Bears receivers and running backs were able to rally against the Big Horns on offense while the defense delivered big hits throughout the game.

Junior Tommy Tosic went down with a wrist injury early in the first quarter, followed soon by Tucker Shea, out with an ankle injury.

Freshman Justin McKillop was able to rally two touchdown passes to freshman receiver Trevor House – himself shaken up by crushing, open-field hits by the Bears’ big men.

The team will play its last game, an exhibition matchup next weekend before starting the playoffs.

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October 21, 2011 17

Big Sky Weekly

NORTHWEST

MANAGEMENT, INC.

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Flathead Lake Historic Timber A chance to own a unique and beautiful piece of Montana histor y

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A STYLE THAT CAN’T BE DUPLICATED Northwest Management Inc. is salvaging century-old submerged logs from Flathead Lake with the aid of scuba divers. Numerous logs date back to the early 1500’s. These logs, steeped in the history of western Montana, are uniquely beautiful with brilliant coloring and have been customed milled into flooring, paneling and rough cut lumber to be used as bar tops, mantles and doors.

18 October 21, 2011

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Big Sky Weekly

sports

Rolling with the Girlz game is played between two, five woman teams on a flat track, skating on quad roller skates. Each team consists of a jammer (the scorer) and four blockers. The blockers of both teams skate in a pack, which the jammers must skate through.

Photo by rob wilke

By Marcie Hahn-Knoff

Big Sky Weekly contributor

Women’s flat track roller derby is sweeping the nation, and the local derby league, The Gallatin Roller Girlz, is growing.

Skaters from the greater Gallatin area, including Big Sky, have joined the team—excitement is mounting as the Girlz work toward their first scrimmages with other leagues around Montana.

As a sport, roller derby has shaken its theatrical beginnings and evolved into a true athletic challenge. The

Visit gallatinrollergirlz.webs.com or facebook.com/gallatinrollergirlz for schedule, location and more information on attending a Fresh Meat practice.

GallatinRollerGirlz

Points are scored as the jammers pass opposing team’s blockers, one point for each pass. The blockers work to keep the opposing jammer from scoring points while helping their own jammer through the pack. Shoulder and Gallatin hip checks are used Roller Girlz to restrict movement is hosting The by the opposite team, Derby Bash, and falls are common. a costume One-hour games are broken party at Scissorinto fast paced two-minute bills in the Big Sky jams, keeping the action Mountain Village on rolling and skaters workSaturday, Oct. 22. The ing hard. event will be a fundraiser for Gallatin Roller Girlz, formed in Spring 2011, is a non-profit dedicated to supporting women through sport. GRG is the seventh league created in Montana, joining together teams from Missoula, Helena, Great Falls, Flathead, and two in Billings.

the league and a can drive for the Gallatin Food Bank. Suggested donation of $2 at the door or two canned goods. Prizes for best costume and winner of a dance contest. Enter a raffle for great prizes, enjoy live DJ music and support local roller derby!

GRG is recruiting for women league skaters, as well as both men and women for skating and non-skating referee and support positions. No skating experience is necessary, though participants must be over 18.

NBA Locked Out

By Brandon Niles

Big Sky Weekly contriubtor

After the National Basketball Association and the players failed to reach a deal on Oct. 10, the league officially canceled the first two weeks of the regular season.

The window remains open for more games to be missed if the two sides cannot reach an agreement soon.

The clock is still ticking, and every day that goes by without a deal puts more games in jeopardy.

The crux of the debate falls on the percentage split of revenue, as well as on potential increases based on additional basketball revenue.

What that means to me, a fan with very little knowledge of legalese, is that the owners want the players to take a pay cut in revenue, without considerations for increased revenue; for example, increased sales of merchandise.

Without getting into the argument about whether or not players make “too much” money as it is, these debates seem at the very least to be disingenuous on the part of the owners.

The owners put the goal posts pretty far out at the beginning of the negotiation process, and as they’ve conceded their own demands, they’ve branded themselves as compromising. The players need to take a pay-cut, but very few real concessions have actually been

made on the part of the owners.

I know one thing; the NBA doesn’t need this lockout. The league has been on a steady increase in popularity over the past decade. The image of the league has improved and there are many young stars to root for across the league. The lockout could potentially damage all the work that’s been done to reshape the league and bring back popularity. Last year, there was a massive increase in viewership.

The lockout might disenfranchise fans enough to dramatically affect the recent growth the league has enjoyed.

As a fan, I just want them to play the game. In this economy, the average NBA fan will struggle to sympathize with a group of rich people arguing over how to divvy up their millions.

Unfortunately, there is no indication that the lockout will end any time soon. Some experts are optimistic.

Others seem defeatist in their hopes for even a shortened season. From the outside looking in, it certainly doesn’t seem as though the two sides are any closer to an agreement than

they were several weeks ago.

I worry I won’t be able to enjoy game-winning shots by Kobe Bryant, staunch defensive play by the Boston Celtics, and electrifying athleticism by Derrick Rose. I worry that after this lockout is over, the casual fans that have come back to this once highly popular sport will leave again. That’s a consequence I don’t think Commissioner David Stern and the owners fully understand.

Let’s hope they understand it soon, or they may find themselves wondering what the fans from last year are tuning in to.

Brandon Niles has done online freelance writing about the NFL since 2007. His articles range from NFL news to team-specific commentary.

A Communication Studies graduate student at the University of North Carolina Greensboro, Niles is also an avid Miami Dolphins fan, which has led to his becoming an avid Scotch whisky fan over the past decade.

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October 21, 2011 19

Big Sky Weekly

health & wellness

Antioxidants

By Victoria Bentley

peaches, pears, oranges, limes, lemons and tomatoes

Consuming foods rich in antioxidants is an important component of staying healthy and slowing aging.

The presence of antioxidants in our bodies ensures long-term health benefits. Antioxidants have been a buzzword for quite a while, and the science behind them proves their contribution to our overall health.

Nuts and seeds: walnuts, pecans, almonds and hazelnuts.

big sky weekly contributor

What are antioxidants?

They are substances or nutrients in our foods that prevent or slow the oxidative or free radical damage that occurs naturally in our bodies.

Think about when you leave a banana or avocado out on the kitchen counter. It turns brown, right?

That’s oxidation or free-radical damage happening before your eyes.

Now apply this analogy to the cells in your body. Kind of scary.

The naturally occurring process of oxygen usage by each of our cells produces free radicals that can cause damage to greater and lesser degrees. Health problems such as heart disease, macular degeneration, diabetes, Alzheimer’s disease and cancer are all exacerbated by this oxidative damage.

The bottom line is that eating a diet of predominantly whole foods complimented with quality supplements rich in antioxidants will strengthen our immune systems and decrease the risk of infections and disease.

Eat this Vegetables: red cabbage, spinach, red beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, broccoli, sweet potatoes, artichoke, avocados, kale and collard greens Fruits: berries, apples, kiwis,

Animal protein: chicken, lamb, turkey and salmon .

Herbs and spices: cinnamon, cloves, cayenne pepper, cardamom, turmeric, cumin, oregano, parsley, marjoram, basil, savory, dill weed and thyme.

Hearty Roasted Fall Vegetables Sweater weather has arrived, so replacing hearty root vegetables for lighter greens is in order. Any fall vegetable will work with this dish and you can add more or swap out. Serves four.

Now get cooking!

Include lean protein to sustain good energy and keep hunger at bay for hours. Use: beans (remember to soak any bean choice overnight before cooking) and/or seeds, properly raised and handled animal protein like fish, chicken, beef, pork or eggs. Cook protein separately and add to dish.

Have dessert

Ingredients:

Last, but definitely not least I’d like to spotlight a particular antioxidant super food: CACAO! Yes, I mean CHOCOLATE! DARK CHOCOLATE. But not the kind you’re thinking of from the checkout aisle at the grocery store. All chocolate is made from cacao, but most companies will ruin the ever so precious antioxidant benefits through high heat processing, adding bad fats, emulsifiers and sugars. Be mindful of where you get your cacao (chocolate).

1/2 lb carrots, halved lengthwise 1 red onion, cut into 1-inch wedges 1 small acorn squash, halved, seeds removed, cut into 1/2 inch slices 5 T extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 1 shallot, cut in thin slices 4 t apple cider vinegar 1 t Dijon mustard 1 stalk celery, thinly sliced, plus leaves (the leaves add huge flavor)

Enjoy your next meal with a plate full of colorful, delicious whole foods and dark chocolate for dessert.

Health is wealth.

Victoria Bentley is the Owner and Director of Bentley Bodies, a premiere mindbody-wellness boutique committed to healthy lifestyle choices. Locations are in Big Sky and Bozeman. bentleybodies.ne

Method: Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees.

On two baking sheets, arrange carrots, onions, shallot and squash; drizzle with 2 T oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast, turning once, until caramelized and tender, about 30 minutes.

Combine vinegar and mustard. Pour remaining 3 T oil in a slow steady stream, whisking constantly. This makes a vinaigrette dressing.

Toss your protein and celery with vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. If using an animal protein, cut into small chunks prior to tossing with dressing.

Spoon roasted vegetables over top and garnish with celery leaves.

Breast cancer patients at higher risk for melanoma Breast cancer patients and survivors have an increased risk of developing melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer. Research has shown genetics may play a role—for women carrying a specific breast cancer susceptibility gene, the presence of abnormalities in the gene doubles the risk of melanoma.

The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends the following skin cancer prevention tips for breast cancer patients and survivors:

ity or abnormal response of the skin to sunlight or artificial ultraviolet (UV) light; it can be caused by certain medical conditions and treatments.

People with photosensitivity have increased risk of developing skin cancers, and should be especially careful to seek shade and stay out of direct sunlight. Wear sun-protective clothing, including wide-brimmed hats and UV-blocking sunglasses, and apply a broad-spectrum (UVA/ UVB protection) sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.

Beware of photosensitivity. Photosensitivity is an increased sensitiv-

Be screened. People at high risk of melanoma and other skin cancers

20 October 21, 2011

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should undergo frequent full-body skin screenings by a physician—once a year or more often, as your physician advises.

Perform self-exams. Self-exams are important. Performed regularly (monthly is ideal), self-examination can alert you to changes in the skin and aid in the early detection of skin cancer.

Because skin cancers can vary in appearance, it’s important to be on the lookout for early warning signs.

Melanomas, for instance, often resemble moles. Look especially

for skin changes of any kind, such as color changes or growth, and do not ignore a suspicious spot simply because it doesn’t hurt. Skin cancers may be painless, but are dangerous all the same.

See a physician, preferably one who specializes in diseases of the skin, if you note any change in an existing mole, freckle, or spot or if you find a new mole with any of the warning signs of skin cancer.

For information on performing selfexams and what to look for, visit skincancer.org/Self-Examination

health & wellness

Preventing the seasonal flu

By Erin Bills, MPH

big sky weekly contributor

Big Sky Weekly

This is how Big Sky gets into hot water.

pending on the type of influenza virus and the duration of symptoms. These medications don’t cure influenza, but may reduce the severity and length of the illness. Of course, prevention with a flu vaccination is the best way to avoid the flu (and a visit to the doctor).

It’s the middle of October, and we’re on the brink of another epic season.

Not ski season, but the upcoming flu season. According to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), 5-20 percent of the population Every fall a new seasonal flu vaccine is gets the flu. Epidemiologically speakreleased because the flu virus mutates, ing, this is a big deal. With the peak of or changes yearly. This is why it’s both the flu and ski season in Februimportant to receive an annual flu ary, October is the ideal time to get an vaccine. The 2011/2012 seasonal flu annual flu vacvaccine prevents cine to prevent The flu vaccine is a against three diflost days that ferent strains of safe and effective could have been influenza; 2009 spent working, way to reduce the risk Type A (H1N1), learning or skiing Type A (H3N2), of getting the flu. this winter. and the Influenza Type B virus. EpiInfluenza, commonly known as the demiological surveillance conducted flu, is a viral infection that typically by the CDC suggests that these strains targets the pulmonary system. The are the most common for the current influenza virus is one of the most seasonal flu forecast. The seasonal flu contagious viruses known. The CDC vaccine is recommended for all indihas identified three different types of viduals 6 months of age and older. the influenza virus; Types A, B, and C. Type A is considered to cause the Those at increased risk of getting the most severe infections and includes flu and developing severe complicathe H1N1, H1N2 and H3N2 viruses tions include pregnant women, chilwhich have been responsible for flu dren, the elderly, and those who may pandemics—an epidemic or outbreak be immuno-compromised. Getting spanning several continents—in recent vaccinated against the seasonal flu is years. Type B can also cause epidemstrongly encouraged for these populaics, but these infections are usually tions. It’s also important to remember considered milder than Type A. Type that by receiving the vaccine yourself, C viruses can cause a mild respiratory you help protect these populations infection but not an epidemic. Thus, from the virus. Additional precautions the influenza vaccine prevents against such as washing hands with soap and Type A and B viral infections. water, using an alcohol-based hand sanitizer, sneezing or coughing into Knowing the difference between a your sleeve or crook of your arm, and common cold or the flu can be tricky. avoiding touching your eyes, nose and Both illnesses are viral infections with mouth can reduce the risk of spreading similar symptoms, but flu symptoms the influenza virus. are usually more severe. Important symptoms of the flu to note are The seasonal flu vaccine is available at high fever, significant muscle aches, the Big Sky Medical Clinic, Bozeman headache, and a nonproductive cough.

Deaconess Hospital, and many other Influenza infections are also characterprivate and public health clinics in the ized by sudden onset of the symptoms region. You may also find a flu vaccine described above. These symptoms are location near you by accessing flu.gov/ also characteristic of the common cold, whereyoulive. but it’s important to remember that flu symptoms usually develop rapidly Prevention is the best way to avoid the and are much more severe. Symptoms flu. In addition to good hygiene, hand suggesting the common cold instead washing and limiting contact with sick of the flu could include sneezing, a individuals, the flu vaccine is a safe runny nose, sore throat, and a mucus and effective way to reduce the risk producing cough. of getting the flu. Stay healthy during the upcoming flu and ski season!

If you or a family member develops severe symptoms of the flu, it’s always Erin A. Bills, MPH, is a public a good idea to consult your primary health consultant living in Big Sky, health care provider. An accurate Montana. She is dedicated to imdiagnosis of an influenza infection can proving the health of Montana’s rube made with a simple test, which reral populations by developing effecquires a swab of the nose. The results tive preventive health policy. Follow can be available in minutes. Physicians her newly minted Blog, Bag Balm, at and health care providers may offer erinashleybills.wordpress.com. medications to certain individuals de-

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41 REASONS TO VISIT BOZEMAN DEACONESS PHARMACY AT BIG SKY. Fill a prescription. Refill a prescription. Shop for over-the-counter remedies for head colds, heartburn, and whatever else ails you.

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October 21, 2011 21

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Big Sky Weekly

business

PBR event made notable economic impact on Big Sky

By Allen Bootmaker, Big Sky Weekly contributor

This past August a local group led by Yellowstone Club, Outlaw Partners, Continental Construction and the Town Center brought the Professional Bull Riding tour to Big Sky. This group has released an Economic Impact study to reveal the details of the event and the financial impact the evening had on the Big Sky community.

The Tax Board helped support the event with a $12,000 contribution that went toward marketing. The event coordinators estimate that the PBR event could result in as much as $33,000 in new tax revenue in the next 12 months.

“This is a prime example of why events are such a great catalyst to generating new business and revenue,” said Eric Ladd, CEO of the Outlaw Partners.

The Big Sky PBR made an estimated $250,000 impact in the 24 hours “The PBR will be remembered as the surrounding the event, according event that tipped the community’s to the report. This amount includes marketing and promotional efforts hotel and dinand motivated “The event set the bar from ing revenue, all of us to many perspectives: from ecomarketing, dream big, then vendor related nomic development and imwork hard to proceeds, and pull it off,” pact, to community-building, other event entertainment, sponsorship, mar- Hamilton added. expenses; it keting/promotion and downright was based on The sold out raw energy!” interviews with evening hosted -Ryan Hamilton, Big Sky Town Center 2,000 people, invendors, local project manager stores and atcluding ticketed tendees. sales, VIP, staff, bull riders, riders’ families, comp “I believe the PBR marked a critical tickets, sponsors and media. point in the history of the Big Sky community,” said Ryan Hamilton, The community, including all walks project manager at the Big Sky Town of life glowed after the event: Center. “The event set the bar from many perspectives: from economic “It was an amazing event that really development and impact, to combrought the town together,” said munity-building, entertainment, Devon White, owner of The Corral sponsorship, marketing/promotion steakhouse and motel. “I’ve been in and downright raw energy!”

Big Sky over 30 years, and this is the biggest turnout I’ve ever seen. I hope In the days surrounding the event it’s even bigger next year.” the PBR added another $100,000 of local economic impact, according The PBR was a resounding success, the report. Also during that time, said Bill Collins, Vice President–Dimore than $25,000 in money was rector of Sales at the Yellowstone raised for local charities.

Club.

“My team had several people in Big Sky exploring real estate opportunities at the YC, and this event really set the tone for what their vision of Montana is,” he said. The Club will likely invite families out specifically around this event in future years, Collins added.

“Personally, it was one of the coolest events I have ever been to, and standing on the chutes was an experience I’ll never forget.”

Photo by daniel bullock

Big Sky PBR Attendees = 2000 people

40%

Non-residents

60%

Big Sky residents

Non-residents = 800 people

40%

live within 2 hours of Big Sky

60%

Live beyond 2 hours of Big Sky

Bozone Brewing to start canning beer

By Taylor Anderson

Brewers Association, reported one brewery for every 36,645 people in Montana.

Bill Hyland, the Bozeman Brewing Co. brew master from Boston, sits over a snifter of Bozone Amber Ale and talks about the thing he loves most in the world: beer. Maybe that’s not quite true (he got married this summer).

The numbers trail Vermont, which sits at No. 1, with one brewery per 29,797 people, and Oregon, No. 2, at 31,662.

assistant editor, big sky weekly

The brewery added a canner in October and will begin selling beers in cans.

That is, Hyland said, “As soon as we can figure out how to use it. We’ve been planning to do this for a long time.”

A man walks into the brewery at 12:15 p.m. one Friday, 15 minutes before open, and orders eight growlers, eight pint glasses and eight shirts for a wedding reception. “My son told me to come to you guys,” he tells Hyland.

Bozone’s newest addition comes at a time when Montana ranks third in per capita breweries in the country. Last year’s stats, released by the Montana

The brewery, owned by Todd and Lisa Danzl-Scott, seems to have a strong hold on local brewing, and stays full during pub hours.

Still, it could be better, hence the canner.

“We’re not brewing at capacity right now,” said Hyland, his sharp accent leading the conversation in the empty room that would hold the added equipment. The building had to undergo a remodel to increase size, and construction started months before the canner’s arrival.

The addition comes at a time when Bozeman has fallen behind Missoula in breweries per capita.

Missoula’s Big Sky Brewing Co. ranks No. 37 in U.S. craft beer sales, and No. 50 in overall beer

Photo by abbie digel

sales (including Anheuser, Miller and Pabst at Nos. 1, 2 and 3).

Bozone’s addition of a canner gives it better footing when it comes to appealing to beer drinkers who can’t bring bottles on hiking or river trips.

1,753 craft breweries last year accounted for 4.8 percent of total beer sales in the U.S., slightly up from 2009.

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October 21, 2011 23

NFL & COL

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Big Sky Weekly

Architecture

All about ice dams

By Jamie Daugaard for the big sky weekly

Some people don’t understand how ice dams can affect the integrity of their roofs until they see water damage, which means it’s too late. In some instances fixing the ice dams on the roof that have formed over many freeze -thaw cycles may be easy, but in others it’s very involved and causes thousands of dollars in damage.

An ice dam is when snow melt water is blocked by a build up of ice further down the roof, most often at the eave or valley of the roof, and the snow melt water begins to back up. In my opinion, there’s not one straight definition of how ice dams are created. They can be initiated by a single stimulus, or by a number of factors, and they can have different outcomes from year to year.

In general, ice buildup is created by repeated freeze-thaw cycles and a few other factors like snow that stays on the roof, very cold exterior temperatures, warmer interior temperatures, and the presence of a thermal bridge (usually a valley or rafter) that passes the heat from the interior to the surface of the roof, melting the snow.

As the snow starts to melt, it travels down to the edge of your roof. The eave is the overhang area where it’s cold below and above, which causes the melting water from the heated area of the roof to freeze once it hits the cold section and builds up a layer of ice that can be several feet thick, in extreme cases.

•

Rake roof edges—This allows solar radiation to heat up the roof material

•

Add tape or cabling—Understand the location and path of past years’ ice damming and place tape or cabling in these locations to create a path for the snow melt to travel and shed off the roof.

An ice dam can also be created by a poorly insulated roof and by weather patterns like temperature, direct sun, east or west sun, shaded areas, type of roofing and exposure to wind.

•

Build a cold roof—This allows the entire roof to remain the same consistent temperature as the exterior air. Natural conditions can still cause problems on a cold roof application.

•

Ventilation—Soffit to ridge applications allow the underside of your roof sheathing to stay cold, as well. Insulation will be placed on the ceiling of the conditioned spaces with baffles.

Options to mitigate ice dams and frozen gutters: •

During the fall watch for areas on your roof early in the morning that are free of frost—This may tell you where warm temperature is leaking or wicking from your conditioned space below.

•

Seal air leaks—It’s important to have a tight seal at the ceiling (a blower door test is the best way to determine leaks).

•

Check your roof insulation level—An R49 is required in our climate zone.

•

Air Leakage—Block the flow of warm conditioned interior air to the underside of the roof deck.

Areas to be watchful are: attic hatches, lighting, exhaust fans, plumbing penetrations.

There are many ways to remove an ice dam. I prefer steaming an ice dam instead of removing it by forcefully chipping or sawing. I’ve seen many

roofs damaged by crews using chippers, chain saws, hammer drills and other mechanical means of ice removal.

In the end, the solution should be to determine the reasons for heat loss, and what natural conditions that are causing the ice dams. A number of roof contractors in the Big Sky area can help install a system that may work for your unique situation.

CENTRE SKY ARCHITECTURE LTD

Jamie Daugaard, principal of Centre Sky Architecture, received his B-Arch and M-Arch from Montana State University. Sustainability is deeply rooted in his work, which is mostly located in mountain regions with offices in Denver, Colorado, and Big Sky, Montana.

If you would like to comment on this article or would like to learn more about another topic, you can contact him at jamie@centresky.com or (406) 995-7572. centresky.com

Big Sky Weekly

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Now in Bozeman and Big Sky

Business profile Bella Treks Felicia Ennis found southern Chile during an opportune moment in that country’s travel industry. It was the mid-‘90s, Pinochet’s dictatorship was losing power, and Chile was starting to funnel money into tourism.

The Montana native spent two years in Chilean Patagonia, guiding horseback riding and hiking for the innovative five-star adventure travel hotel, Explora, in its early days. Ennis became an expert in the region’s plants, flowers, animals, history, culture and language, and befriended locals and guides.

“There was a revitalization of energy and tourism,” she says. She met Chileans who felt the same way about their country as Ennis did about Montana. “They loved the wilderness.”

Ennis also became one of the first women to climb the South Tower of Paine, a serious technical rock climb in the Torres del Paine National Park.

Eventually she missed Montana and returned home, by way of a job at a travel agency and several years teaching school in Boulder, Colo. She continued visiting South America almost once a year.

When Ennis started Bella Treks in 2005, she reconnected with old Chilean guide friends, and brought her first guided trip to the Torres del Paine National Park. Today, her Livingston-based travel company also offers custom itineraries to Argentina, Peru, Antarctica, Morocco, the Arctic and Montana.

The trips use local guides and stay at bed and breakfasts, hotels and chalets. Excursions are designed for small groups and individuals, and often include vineyards, hikes, fly fishing, and always, immersion in local culture.

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Ennis sets up private transportation and other services, keeping the trips flexible, but well organized. Most of the company’s referrals are through word of mouth.

Closer to home, she’s putting together a birding trip to Medicine Hat National Wildlife Refuge in northeastern Montana this spring, when thousands of migrating birds will be nesting.

In November, she’s headed to Chile to reconnect with guides and providers, and to find new hotels. While there, she hopes to visit a Mapuche Indian school in Argentina that’s part of an exchange program with students on the Northern Cheyenne Reservation in Montana.

That visit is part of Ennis’s desire to start giving back to the places she and her clients visit. On a 2010 Bella Treks trip to Morocco, for example, a group had the option to donate to a community-based architectural restoration project.

Now, Ennis “is networking in the communities where we travel to see what needs they have.” bellatreks.com E.S.

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October 21, 2011 27

EVENTS big sky

Yoga with Anna Yellow Mountain Center for the Arts Oct. 21, 25, 28 Nov. 1, 4, 8, 11, 15, 18, 22 8:30 – 10 p.m.

Yoga with Anna Yellow Mountain Center for the Arts Oct. 24, 31 Nov. 7, 14, 21 6:30 – 8 p.m.

Big Sky Weekly Planning an event? Let us know! Email abbie@theoutlawpartners.com and we’ll spread the word.

Reformation Sunday Big Sky Chapel Oct. 30 9:30 a.m.

Half Moon Saloon Hallows Eve Celebration ft. The Dirty Shame Oct. 30 Big Sky Fire Department Haunted House Fire Station 1 Oct. 31, 6 – 8 p.m.

Gallatin Canyon Women’s Club Halloween luncheon Gormet Gals Oct. 26, 12 p.m.

Ophir School Annual Wreath and Poinsettia Sale Call Jennifer O’Connor 570-0765 Orders due Nov. 3

BSSEF Annual Ski & Gear Swap Ophir School Oct. 29, 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Friday Ski Conditioning Class Ophir School old gym Fridays thru Dec. 16 6-7 a.m.

Call Jolene, 579- 2489

Ophir School Annual Wreath and Poinsettia Sale The Ophir School Council/PTO is again sponsoring the annual sale of holiday greenery to help fund programs for Ophir School and Lone Peak High students. This is one of two major fundraisers the OSC/PTO does each year, and it provides thousands of dollars for programs that benefit Big Sky students.

For an order form, contact your favorite Ophir or Lone Peak High student, or visit our website at oscbigsky.blogspot. com, or call Jennifer O’Connor (OSC/PTO President) at 570-0765.

Orders are due at the school no later than Nov. 3, 2011.

28 October 21, 2011

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Bozeman What Women Want to Know Expo MSU-Bozeman Fieldhouse, Centennial Mall Oct. 22, 2 - 5 p.m Family Grossology Halloween Party Museum of the Rockies Oct. 22, 2 – 5 p.m.

Bozeman Winter Farmers’ Market The Emerson Ballroom Oct. 22, Nov. 5, 19 In the beginning: a celebration of Life and Art Benefit and art show The Emerson Oct. 24, 6 – 10 p.m.

1st Annual MSU Facility and Student Art Show & Wine Tasting Rocking TJ Ranch Oct. 29, 2011 Halloween at the Emerson The Emerson Oct. 31, 4 p.m.

Volunteer with Eaglemount Bozeman REI Nov. 2, 6:30 – 8 p.m.

Ski Swap Consignment Day Gallatin County Fairgrounds Nov. 4, 6, 10 a.m.

The Art of Flight Movie The Emerson Nov. 7, 8 p.m.

Whitebark Pine: Loss of an Iconic Ecosystem Bozeman REI Oct. 26, 6:30 – 8 p.m.

Back to the 50’s with the Bozeman Symphony MSU Student Union Ballroom Nov. 12, 7:30 p.m.

2 Legends One Night

Why we ride: a Montana Ski and Snowboard Documentary The Emerson Nov. 17, 7:30 p.m.

ASC Fundraiser Featuring Jawbone Railroad The Ellen Theater Oct. 25, 6 p.m.

13th Annual Ag Appreciation Weekend MSU SUB Ballrooms Oct. 28-29 13th Annual PowderBlast Fundraiser for the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center The Emerson Oct. 28, 6:30 p.m.

west yellowstone West entrance to Yellowstone closes to motorized traffic Nov. 6 West Yellowstone Ski Swap Nov. 11 – 12, 8 a.m. - noon

Livingston, Cooke City + gardiner Build your own taco dinner and musical comedy Gardiner Community Center Oct. 21 Free New Age Market Livingston Civic Center Oct. 23, 1 p.m.

Craft Night Oct. 24, 5 p.m.

Sonic Boom Two Bit Saloon Oct. 27, 10 p.m.

Hooligans Pine Creek Lodge & Café Oct. 29, 7 p.m.

Silver Gate Town Party Oct. 28, 7 p.m.

Halloween Fest Mammoth Community Center Oct. 30, 4 - 6 p.m.

Tom Catmull and the Clerics Chico Hot Springs Nov. 4, 9:30 p.m.

Virginia City Haunted House

The Elling House Oct. 28-29, 7 – 12:00 a.m.

opinion: the Environment Roadless Area Release Act puts Montana’s lands legacy at risk

Big Sky Weekly column: new guy in town

Try writing a book this off-season—seriously!

By cameron lord

By Nick Engelfried

big sky weekly contributor

Ever since Congressman Denny Rehberg announced his co-sponsorship of the Wilderness and Roadless Area Release Act, Montana conservation groups have been up in arms.

It’s no wonder. If passed, this bill would open more than 40 million acres of roadless areas in the U.S. to potential mining, drilling and other environmentally destructive activities.

Though roadless areas throughout the country would be affected, few states have as high a stake in the debate as Montana. As currently written, the Roadless Area Release Act would impact over 6 million acres of Wilderness Study Areas, and 36 million acres of Inventoried Roadless Areas. Montana has an impressive network of Roadless and WSAs, which serve as tourist draws and are valued by outdoor enthusiasts across the state.

From the Big Snowy Mountains near Lewiston, to the Hyalite-PorcupineBuffalo Horn area in the Gallatins, these places are part of what makes Montana special. By opening some of them to road building and extractive industries, the Roadless Area Release Act would attempt to erode laws that keep Montana’s landscape intact.

of Scotchman Peaks Wilderness, have also joined the call. According to the Flathead Beacon, 26 Montana hunting and angling organizations have sent separate letters to their congressmen, asking that they oppose the bill.

It’s this type of broad alliance between hunters, anglers, conservationists, and other outdoor enthusiasts that has made Montana a natural resource leader. From the start this movement has spanned traditional party lines and political ideologies, and the fight to stop the Roadless Area Release Act is no exception. Groups like Republicans for Environmental Protection (REP) have joined traditionally more liberal organizations in opposing the bill.

According to a statement on REP’s web site, the legislation “would be an arbitrary decision that protecting 43 million acres of roadless forests and wilderness study areas is unnecessary.”

The group adds that the bill “sends a message that expanding America’s legacy of protected open space to meet the needs of a growing population is no longer important.”

Congressman Rehberg, a Republican lawmaker from a state that values sound public lands management, might want to take note.

It’s for this reason that Senator John Tester has spoken out against the bill, joining hunters, hikers, and conservationists who say it puts wildlife populations and opportunities for outdoor recreation at risk. But Rep. Rehberg continues to defend his support for the legislation, saying the level of protection roadless areas now receive is unnecessary.

Rehberg still has time to reconsider his position on the act. Though versions of the bill are moving through both the U.S. Senate and the House of Representatives, the legislation is still a long way from becoming law. The House version of the bill was introduced in April by Republican Kevin McCarthy of California. Since then it has been referred to committees and has attracted 33 co-sponsors, including Congressman Rehberg.

In June more than 100 U.S. conservation groups signed a letter to Congress, urging lawmakers to oppose the Roadless Area Release Act. The list of signatories included national organizations like the Wilderness Society and Defenders of Wildlife. Smaller, regional and local groups, like the Montana Wilderness Association and Friends

The vast majority of co-sponsors are Republicans, so perhaps Rehberg is towing the party line by giving his support. But Montana is a state where the traditional boundaries between right and left don’t always hold up. That’s especially true when it comes to the future of roadless public lands that so many Montanans treasure.

big sky weekly contributor

November can be dark and dreary, with cold weather and snow, little work to go around, and no skiing until Thanksgiving. Aside from the weekend diversion of watching football, what is one to do? Here’s a crazy notion—try writing a book.

finding time to write? To help you calibrate, 50,000 words is approximately the length of The Great Gatsby, Brave New World, and The Catcher in the Rye—shorter than many novels, but by no means a “novella.” This pencils to approximately 1,700 words per day, or roughly four to six word processor pages. Most writers find they can reach their daily quota in one to three hours. While that’s not an insignificant amount of time, it’s certainly workable. If nothing else, it gives you something to do while you’re stuck indoors.

Each November, a growing number of people participate in National Novel Writing Month, known in shorthand as “NaNoWriMo.” Participants endeavor to write a 50,000-word novel in 30 days. Last year, over 200,000 amateur writers “A week is the attempted the feat, perfect amount of and more than time for prewriting 30,000 succeeded.

So you’re going to have the free time, and you don’t even need a plot… and planning. Any but you’re still Perhaps you’re lanot convinced. more, and you risk When else are menting you have nothing to write stumbling upon a you going to about. NaNoWbe snowbound, good idea.” riMo founder underemployed, Chris Baty argues and looking for that contrary to something to do? Hey, it worked popular belief, good ideas usually for Jack Nicholson’s character in become a burden instead of a boon “The Shining,” right? (oh wait, to NaNoWriMo participants. scratch that). So, if the ridiculous notion of writing a book in a month In his companion guide, No Plot? just happens to strike a chord with No Problem!, he explains, “Once you, hop on board the crazy-train you stumble across a fantastic, at nanowrimo.org. I’ll be giving it a once-in-a-lifetime idea for a book, shot, and I hope you do too. it’s hard to treat that story with the irreverent disregard needed to Cameron is a fortransform it from a great idea into a mer banker, partworkable rough draft.” Baty says a time blogger and week is the perfect amount of time full-time gaper for prewriting and planning. Any who shares his more, and you risk stumbling upon misadventures as a good idea. he learns about mountain life in So if plot truly isn’t a problem, Big Sky. Read his blog at highlightwhat about the practical issue of er-theory.typepad.com.

explorebigsky.com Southwest Montana’s News · Business · Video · Media Network

As currently written, the Roadless Area Release Act would impact over

6ofmillion acres Wilderness Study Area

&

36 million acres of Inventoried Roadless areas

explorebigsky.com

October 21, 2011 29

Big Sky Weekly

Classifieds help wanted Need some extra money this winter?

Come share your passion for the Big Sky area as a Reservationist and/or Driver for Shuttle to Big Sky & Taxi.

Must be at least 25 yrs of age with a clean driving record and be able to lift 50 lbs. Must be a Big Sky Resident.

Prior experience preferred but not required. Must pass Drug Test & DOT physical exam. PT positions available. Please submit resume to info@ bigskytaxi.com. EOE ------------------------------------------------SEASONAL POSITIONS IN WEST YELLOWSTONE: Motel Ft Desk/ Nt Audit, Rental Clerk, Snowmobile Tech, Auto Tech. Yellowstone Vacations - 406/646-9564 ---------------------------------------------The Hungry Moose Market and Deli Now Interviewing for P/T and F/T Year Round positions in grocery and deli Applications available at the store or online hungrymoose.com 406-9953045 ------------------------------------------------Opening at the Medical Clinic of Big Sky for receptionist/patient coordinator. Previous medical background helpful but not required. Must be computer savvy, have the ability to multi task, work well with others and maintain confidentiality at all times. Bring fax or resume to the Medical Clinic, 11 Lone

Peak Trail - suite 202 - FAX 406-9932965 or mail to PO Box 160609, Big Sky, MT 59716 ------------------------------------------------Ophir School District 1 FT - Bus Driver/Facility Asst Bus $18/hr(will train)Facility Asst $14/hr See website for full descriptions and application at ophirschool.org. Or call 406-9954281 ext. 218

for sale CHEAPEST HOUSE IN BIG SKY 2265 Little Coyote 3 BD, 2 BA, Golf Course Views Call Big Sky Sotheby’s 406.995.2244 -------------------------------------------------

For Sale - brand new furniture from a model home in Big Sky in Spanish Peaks. 4 Bar Stools, Couch, Entertainment Center, Cabinet and King Bedding. Call 406-993-5381.

business opportunities What if you could take $250 & turn it into $5,000 or even $20,000 month after month? How would earning $20,000 over and over change your life? SEC approved company new in MT For more information email phone # to weatlhtoday@q.com

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services

Classifieds

Victoria Bentley is the Owner and Director of Bentley Bodies, a premiere mind-body-wellness boutique committed to healthy lifestyle choices. Locations are in Big Sky and Bozeman. bentleybodies.net

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‘95 Artic Can Snowmobile 580 XTR - parts. $150 fat skis,extended track, contact emily@theoutlawpartners.com -------------------------------------------------

Wild Alaskan Salmon Fresh frozen sockey salmon filets (406) 995-4467 45000 Gallatin Rd., Gallatin Gateway MT 59730

HALLOWEEN WEEKEND!

LEGAL Notice BEFORE THE DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE OF THE STATE OF MONTANA LIQUOR LICENSING NOTICE OF APPLICATION FOR TRANSFER OF OWNERSHIP FOR MONTANA ALL-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES WITH CATERING ENDORSEMENT LICENSE NO. 06-999-2822-002 On October 7, 2011, MT 750 Lone Mountain Spirits, LLC - Sole Member: MT 750 Lone Mountain Ranch Road, LLC- Sole Member: Lunar Real Estate Holdings, LLC- Sole Member: Lehman Brothers Holdings, Inc., filed an application for the transfer of a license to be used at MT 750 LONE MOUNTAIN SPIRITS, 750 Lone Mountain Ranch Road, Big Sky, Gallatin County, Montana.

Protests against an application must be (1) made in writing, (2) mailed to the Department of Revenue, Liquor Licensing, PO Box 1712, Helena, Montana 59624-1712, and (3) received and date stamped by the Department no later than the 7th day of November 2011. Protests will be accepted from creditors of the transferor or from residents of the county from which the application originates and of adjoining counties only.

We’re selling at reduced prices: • Furniture / lamps • Home accent pieces • Kitchen & dining goods • Sports items golf clubs & bags, fishing, camping, skis & boots • Men’s clothing • Animal wall mounts

• Entertainment Units CD / DVD, TVs, stereo receivers, computer adapters, X-Box unit, PlayStation2 • Women’s clothing • Children’s & baby items/toys

See you in the store soon!

Located in the Big Horn Center, north of signal light, on Hwy 191 & Lone Mtn Trail

Please call Janine or Dick @ (406) 993-9333 for an appointment to consign your items for sale

30 October 21, 2011

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Each protestor is required to mail a separate letter of protest that contains in legible print, the protestor’s full name, mailing address, and street address. Each letter must be signed by the protestor. Protest petitions bearing the names and signatures of more than one protestor will not be considered. Protest letters must provide the license number, trade name, or applicant name associated with the license being protested for identification purposes. Protest letters must contain a clear statement of the writer’s intent to protest the application. The grounds for protest of an application for a transfer of location are limited to those set out in section 16-4-405, MCA, for a denial of a license, and public convenience and necessity as set out in section 16-4-203, MCA. If the protested application is for a transfer of ownership not involving a transfer of location, the grounds for protest are limited to those set out in section 16-4-405, MCA. Protest letters which do not provide the information described in this paragraph will not be considered valid protest letters. Only those grounds for protest raised in valid protest letters will be considered at hearing. An individual’s testimony will be limited to the grounds for protest raised in that individual’s valid protest letter.

If the department receives a sufficient number of protests to require a hearing pursuant to section 16-4-207(4)(a), MCA, a hearing will be scheduled in Helena, Montana. If the department receives a sufficient number of protests to require a hearing pursuant to section 16-4-207(4)(b), MCA, to determine public convenience and necessity, a hearing will be held in the county in which the proposed premises is located. All qualified protestors will be notified of the time, date and location of the hearing. Hearings are typically scheduled within 90 days following the protest deadline.

If a sufficient number of protests to require a hearing are not received and all licensing criteria have been satisfied, the department may issue the license without holding a hearing.

Big Sky Weekly

fun

Halloween Retrospective: Big Sky Weekly Staff

Editor Abbie Digel as a treasure troll (nude body suit not pictured)

Creative Director Mike Martins gets cocky.

Senior Editor Megan Paulson lights up as a Christmas Tree.

Chris Davis does video, design and a mean David Bowie impression.

Eric and Katie Morrison have spirit.

Videographer Brian Niles shows a little chest hair.

Brrraiiiiiinnnnssss!!!! Graphic Designer/Zombie, Kelsey Dzintars

Monday, October 31st 6-8 p.m.

Big Sky Fire Department, Station 1 Westfork Meadows, Big Sky

The Big Sky Fire Department invites you to join us on Halloween! There will be oodles of ghoulish delights in the haunted house plus craft activities and treats for the kids!

For more information, please call the Big Sky Fire Department at (406) 995-2100.

explorebigsky.com

October 21, 2011 31

Big Sky Weekly

Noun: wild or rough terrain adjacent to a developed area Origin: shortened form of “back 40 acres”

For the Big Sky Weekly, the Back 40 is a resource: a place where we can delve into subjects and ask experts to share their knowledge. Topics include regional history, profiles of local artists and musicians, snow and avalanche education, how-to pieces for traditional or outdoor skills, and science.

Waiting for Winter

By Marcie Hahn-Knoff

hillsides quiet. It was November, and I was riding a high-elevation ridgeline.

The sun beat down hard, and wisps of dust curled from underneath my bike tires, stirred by the spin of rubber.

It had been months since the ski movie premiers had rolled through town, and the short-lived stoke they created was long forgotten.

big sky weekly contributor

Beads of sweat rushed from my forehead, pulled earthward by gravity.

The wildflowers had long since faded, and dry, spiky skeletons stood in their place.

It was a beautiful day for riding, yet I couldn’t shake the strangeness of it all. The deep blue sky was empty, the

October passed with no precipitation, and the mountain community started grumbling. The snowmaking crews were sent away—nights were too warm. The mild weather wore on, each day feeling like a carbon copy of the one before.

The hydrologist for the Forest Service

was interviewed on the local news.

Things were looking bleak, he said. No change in the pattern was expected. Be prepared for a below average year, he warned.

What was I doing here, waiting for something I had no control over? Had I made a mistake following the seasonal life for yet another year?

Daybreak seeped through the winRiding my bike helped me keep my sandows, filling the house with a soft ity. I was still up in the mountains, but diffused glow. I pried my eyes open, I felt swindled. Parties became more weary after the heavy dinner and frequent as powder hounds searched dose of liquid celebration. I sat up and for other outlooked outside. It “People were coming unlets—people were was white. Really hinged. Burning skis, seen as a coming unhinged. white. Snow fell sacrifice to the snow gods, only Burning skis, seen from the sky in resulted in acrid smoke swirlas a sacrifice to the giant floating ing toward the heavens and a amalgamations snow gods, only mess on the ground. The bright that looked more resulted in acrid buzz about the upcoming win- like down feathers smoke swirling ter had been snuffed.“ toward the heavthan tiny snowens and a mess on flakes. the ground. The bright buzz about the upcoming winter had been snuffed.

I walked toward the windows facing the driveway. My car seemed to Checking online weather sites became be gone, in its place a rounded dune my daily ritual. I picked through the of snow. The only thing belying its regional forecaster discussion systemexistence was a tip of the antenna pokatically, and found kindred spirits: The ing out. I felt like a kid on Christmas short essays also lamented the curmorning. rent weather picture. The forecasters seemed bored.

The house was quiet, so I gathered my belongings, threw on my sneakers and Finally, the word I had been waiting stepped out into the storm. Wading to for appeared in the discussion verbiage: the car, I cursed myself for not bringprecipitation. Weather was beginning ing a pair of boots. As I began digging, to form in the Gulf of Alaska. It might the snow accumulated silently on my bring a chance for precipitation in 10-14 shoulders and head. I smiled. Feet of days. Two more weeks. Still, I felt a snow fell from my car with each stroke bump of energy in my chest. of the scraper; a trench formed around its perimeter as I cleared the windows.

I began printing off the discussions daily, drawing snowflakes on the margins I pulled into the driveway, and snow and placing them on the refrigerator. flew up and over the hood onto the The forecasters were divided on what windshield, creating a vehicle version the strengthening system would do. It of a face shot. I got fresh tracks the could split in two, miss us completely, entire way down the mountain road. line up to snow a couple of feet, or Butterflies swarmed in my stomach as drop a couple of inches. At least it was I passed the resorts’ empty parking lots predicted to be cold enough for a few and powder-covered faces. Anticipation nights to make snow. At this point, any bloomed in my mind, and its energy kind of sliding surface sounded good. surged through my body.

The days passed, and the weather stayed warm and dry. My confidence in the forecasts waned. Thanksgiving was approaching and the resorts were ghost towns. No snow equals no tourists equals no jobs.

I spent Thanksgiving at a house near one of the ski resorts, perched high on a

32 October 21, 2011

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mountainside. From a well-positioned deck, we watched a blazing sunset over the valley far below. Back inside, as the windows began to reflect against the night’s blackness, the wind began to pick up. Before bed, I looked out at the starry sky, hoping this wind might be ushering in the change we’d been waiting for.

It was time to go home, hang up the bike and bust out the sticks. Winter had arrived.

Marcie Hahn=Knoff is the proud owner of Hoopla Hula Hoops, based in Belgrade. facebook.com/hooplahulahoops

Big Sky Weekly

Special section:

Moab Photo courtesy of emily stifler

Travel

October 21, 2011 Volume 2 // Issue #19

Bungy jumping off Kawarau Bridge, New Zealand

Photo by Kelsey Dzintars

contents napa valley...34 chile...35 South carolina...37 rwanda...39 peru...41 Australia...42 maine...45 patagonia...46 italy...48 Florence, Italy

Photo Courtesy of Abbie Digel

View from a remote Monastary overlooking the Yangtze River, Tibet

Photo by Megan Paulson

Yosemite Falls in autumn after a storm

Photo by emily stifler

Rwanda

Photo Courtesy of Aubrey Davis

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October 21, 2011 33

Big Sky Weekly

Napa valley

A day in wine country story and photos

By Tyler Allen

big sky weekly contributor

I was in a quandary.

It was 11 a.m., and I was drinking a delicious coffee from the Model Bakery in St. Helena, Calif. Then my host produced two half-consumed bottles of Duckhorn Cabernet.

My sensibilities as a wine drinker and coffee addict were pulling me in opposite directions—sure, it was early, but we were in Napa Valley, the heartland of American winemaking. I resolved to chug the rest of the strong brew as soon as it cooled, and poured a modest glass of dark purple, single estate Cabernet Sauvignon. For a mountain enthusiast from Montana, it was starting to feel like a powder day in wine country.

Wine has been produced in the Napa Valley since the early 19th century.

One of America’s top wine growing regions, the valley is only five miles across at its widest. Because of its proximity to the ocean, Napa has a temperate maritime climate with warm, sunny days and cool nights during the growing season: ideal for grapes to ripen slowly and evenly.

‘Slow and even’ was my mantra as we embarked on a day of tasting at some of Napa’s premier wineries. We stopped at the local market, Sunshine Foods, to gather lunch provisions—hard meats and cheeses, soft baguettes and fresh fruit grown in the valley.

Our next stop was Ehlers Estate, a small, 43-acre winery that is 100 percent organic and biodynamic. The founder of the vineyard died of heart failure in 2002, and all the profits from this winery are donated to cardiovascular research. Their wines are as unique as their business model; Napa is renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon, but Ehlers produces fine Cabernet Franc, a varietal that is usually reserved for blending with other grapes. The

34 October 21, 2011

2008 was big and full bodied, and the tasting notes made mention of black cherry, cigar wrapper and charred meat.

I didn’t pick up the cigar wrapper, but it certainly was a bold, delicious wine.

They also produce a rosé from the same grapes that was bright and crisp, with low alcohol content that suited the midday drinking hour.

Then, we drove up the long, hair pinned road to Pride Mountain Vineyards, a 235-acre estate straddling the boundary of Napa and Sonoma counties. Here, we toured the large cellar, its long hallways lined by oak barrels.

Pulling a sample of a 2008 Cabernet from one of these barrels, the wine educator extolled its virtues: Although it hadn’t been refined by the bottleaging process yet, it still revealed the depth and structure that this grape is so revered for.

After a picnic lunch overlooking vast rows of vines, the Napa Valley lying below, we drove the rollercoaster back down to the valley floor. At least one of us caught a quick catnap before we descended upon Duckhorn Vineyards, the crown jewel of our tasting itinerary.

Founded in 1976, Duckhorn Vineyards quickly became one of Napa’s elite wineries. They specialize in the red varietals Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (despite what you think you learned from “Sideways,” Napa produces exceptional Merlots), and make a very affordable Sauvignon Blanc- a fresh, crisp and not overly sweet white.

The sun was down, and we were all still standing, with varying shades of purple teeth. Unless you plan on ending your day with a $300 meal at the French Laundry, Gott’s Roadside is not to be missed. An icon in Napa Valley, Gott’s grinds their local burger meat daily and uses fresh and local ingredients whenever possible. We ordered hearty burgers and washed down the day’s wine with some of California’s best brews—Anchor Steam Liberty Ale and Trumer Pilsner.

explorebigsky.com

“For a mountain enthusiast from Montana, it was starting to feel like a powder day in wine country.”

Located just 65 miles from San Francisco, Napa Valley is this country’s answer to Bordeaux, but a lot cheaper to get to. And, unlike France, the Californians actually

print the type of wine (not just the region) on the label, so you aren’t left guessing or ridiculed for your American ignorance.

Big Sky Weekly

Chile

Crossing mountains and cultures (with a bicycle for two)

By Katie Nicoll

Big Sky weekly contributor

We woke at the edge of Lago Puelo, our tent hidden in the trees. We were at the base of an unnamed pass separating Chile and Argentina, and had spent the last month riding our tandem bicycle through Chile.

The sky was streaked with warm pinks and reds, and sunlight had just begun to strike the tops of green mountains, rising straight up from the water’s edge.

We rose and scouted the braided river we had to cross on our way to Chile, the Rio Puelo. The full moon was just starting to set.

Since starting our adventure in Coyhaique, Chile my fiancé Sam and I had pedaled more than 1000 kilometers, some dirt, some paved. We endured pouring rain and basked in warm sun. We saw hanging glaciers, rode through the desert, swam in the Atlantic, and experienced incredibly fast and slow travel.

On a daily basis we practiced trust: Switching places on the tandem allowed each of us to follow, attentive to the other’s movements, anticipating shifting, standing and coasting as we danced around potholes at warp speed. However, we had yet to hike with our gear, and spending the next five days carrying our bike, trailer and camping equipment over the rugged pass made it clear why the local mode of travel—by horse and on foot—had prevailed in this rough

and his eyes disappeared as we exchanged slow smiles. The rhythm of his voice encouraging the cattle forward never skipped a beat, and he seemed at peace outside moving among the sunlight and shade.

And then suddenly, change was upon us. We were nearing the end of our fifth day and pausing to eat the only food we had left—plain oats. We heard a grumble, and then a string of 12 dirt bikes zoomed past.

We were so surprised our oats flew to the ground, so now we had little left to do but keep hiking.

After a half-hour we came to a river crossing to find an immense road cut. Although the road construction had been slowed by high water, it seemed an obvious metaphor for the change that was looming and inevitable.

I looked back over my shoulder toward the quiet world of non-motorized travel, and then we rolled the bike across the footbridge. On the other side, we encountered a pickup truck, and four men circled around a campfire. They were as surprised to see us as we were to see a vehicle.

We exchanged greetings, and we soon had beers in our hands. They fed us incredibly delicious meat and bread, and started telling us their story. They’d been coming to the nearby town of Llanada Grande for six years, and were involved in the Chilean cattle industry.

pected, we were greeted at a beautiful guest lodge with warmth and hospitality. The lodge owners, born and raised in Llanda Grande, served us hot maté and then showed us to our indoor sleeping quarters. We dressed as best we could and arrived back to the main building for dinner. The surprises continued.

Everyone was seated, and two places at the center of long table were left open for the “guests of honor.” Wine glasses were full, toasts were made, and women shuffled around bringing delectable meat, perfectly seasoned potatoes, vegetables and baskets of fresh warm bread. The room was packed with good cheer and full bellies.

Chocolates accompanied nightcaps, then guitars ap-

“On a daily basis we practiced trust: Switching places on the tandem allowed each of us to follow, attentive to the other’s movements, anticipating shifting, standing and coasting as we danced around potholes at warp speed.”

country.Across Rio Puelo, the land took on infinite shades of green. The forest was dominated by Coihue and Cypress trees, and water seemed to seep from everywhere. This tunnel of green pummeled us with rain, mud, rocks, waterfalls and occasionally, we were gifted with stunning views across the river valley at rocky cliffs and mountains blanketed in green.

Because this border crossing is one of only a handful between the two countries accessible only to primitive travel, the countryside has seen little outside influence. Every day, we passed quiet campos where the farmers’ way of life had hardly changed since the first settlers arrived decades ago.

One afternoon, we shared the path with a poblador moving his cattle. The wrinkles on his face and hands sagged with the weight of a long life lived outside,

This was their yearly business retreat (a.k.a. man-camp). peared. Three men played, and everyone sang slow, lyrical classic Chilean ballads. One of the men playing had the most beautiful voice—deep, soft and unwavering. His notes filled the room with warmth, and then some of the more inebriated voices bellowed out the chorus.

With a rev of motorcycle engines, the rest of the crew returned. Men, ranging in age from 40–65, were transformed into teenage boys, giddy with the glee of riding fast. In Spanish, they simultaneously exchanged war stories and welcomed us. They must have known we hadn’t eaten, and they pulled more meat from the grill and delivered it to our hands.

Convinced our stomachs would soon protest the abrupt change, we pulled away with promises of a reunion and more stories to be shared later that evening. We swung our legs over the tandem for the first time in five days and rode 20 kilometers into Llanada Grande. Our new friends had left us a paper sign on a post leading toward their “cabin.”

Instead of finding the campfire and cabin we ex-

On our way to bed that evening, I thought I might burst. I was so full of warmth, generosity, laughs, music, and wonderful food and drink.

The following morning, after our bellies were filled one last time, we exchanged contact information. Our new friends waved goodbye as we pedaled, in awe, out through the gate.

explorebigsky.com

October 21, 2011 35

by word of mouth

some restaurants do italian food. some do chinese food.

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APR financing through Toyota Financial Services with approved credit. Tier 1+thru Tier 111 only.

Offers cannot be combined and may vary by region. Other restrictions may apply. For WA, OR, ID, MT state dealerships, a documentation service fee in an amount up to $350 may be added to the vehicle. Must take retail delivery from dealer stock by 10/31/2011.

Big Sky Weekly

South carolina Golf Five award-winning golf courses are scattered around the island. Designed by some of the best in golf, including Jack Nicklaus, Gary Player and Tom Fazio, Kiawah’s courses are among the most highly rated in the world.

The crown jewel is The Ocean Course designed

by Pete Dye. As one of only 17 “5-Star” rated courses in North America (Golf Digest), the course offers more seaside holes than any other in the Northern Hemisphere.

The Ocean Course will host its first major when the 94th PGA Championship rolls in this August. Also, Kiawah Resort is ranked the “No. 1 Resort in the U.S.” by Golf World, and is a golfers’ dream come true.

Lodging and touring The most affordable way to enjoy Kiawah is to stay in one of the 900 villas that cater to golf, tennis and family activities.

Southern exposure

By Hunter Rothwell

big sky weekly contributor

Resting in the heart of the South Carolina coastline is a barrier island known as Kiawah.

This southern paradise was named for the Indian tribe that inhabited the island and greeted the arrival of the first European colonists to the region.

The tribal leader, called the Cassique of Kiawah, led the English colonists to settle nearby Charlestowne Landing, later renamed Charleston.

Wild island Since 1974, Kiawah has experienced a steady transformation from a rural plantation surrounded by wild, overgrown marshland into a world-class resort. Although there has been development over the years, no resort has exceeded

Kiawah’s effort to maintain the land’s natural beauty and habitat. Deer, bobcats, ospreys, river otters and gray foxes are just a snapshot of the island’s wildlife.

There are plenty of luxury amenities available, including The Sanctuary Hotel & Spa (“Forbes 5-Star Rating”), an antebellum style, seaside mansion. The Sanctuary offers 255 spacious rooms and is adjacent to the world-renowned Roy Barth Tennis Center.

The best way to see the island is to rent a beach cruiser and bike around on Kiawah’s network of paved leisure trails. Ancient oak trees tinseled with flowing moss keep the island well shaded from the hot sun. Bask in the breathtaking views across the low country marshes or hit the beach for deep-sea and salt water fly-fishing.

Beware of alligators! The island’s fresh water lagoons are home to a large population of the creatures. Islanders have no problem spotting these prehistoric beasts for a photo opportunity.

The island extends east to west and faces south into the Atlantic Ocean, so beachcombers can enjoy both sunrises and sunsets. Warm Atlantic water, gentle tidal currents and plenty of room to roam soothe even the weariest souls.

Kiawah offers a 10-mile stretch of large, flat, sandy beach, free of crowds and eyesore amusements. But there’s no public access, and you must be a resident or a guest to get into this area.

There are camps and activities for kids and adults.

Shopping and dining are all over the island, and Charleston is only a 30-minute drive away, and offers endless choices as well as some of the most historical sightseeing in the country.

If you need a break from the long Montana winter, a trip to the Old South and some Southern hospitality might be just what the doctor ordered. kiawahresort.com

Photo by Tom Watson LANE

Clockwise from upper left: Kiawah golf course, Kiawah island sunset, deer on wild island

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October 21, 2011 37

Big Sky Weekly

www.PruMT.com 406.995.4060 • 800.995.4060 Big Sky Town Center • 55 Lone Peak Drive • Suite 3 Prudential Montana Real Estate is your statewide real estate company with 12 offices to serve you in the communities of Big Sky, Bozeman, Dillon, Ennis, Sheridan, Twin Bridges, Hamilton, Florence, Missoula, Seeley Lake & Polson.

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3 bd, 5 ba, 4,500 +/- sf home 8 +/- acres (2 contiguous lots), pond beautiful natural landscaping, mature trees guest home, Yellow Mountain views

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• 20 +/- acres (16 +/- acres zoned community commercial, 4 +/- acres zoned residential) • Big Sky water and sewer accessible • west fork of the Gallatin borders parcel

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Beaver Creek w, lot 13 • • • •

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$479,000 • #176526 • Call stacy

3 bd, 2.5 ba, 2365+/- sf, custom finishes bonus room above 2 car attached garage tongue & groove pine ceiling hot tub, flagstone patio with fire pit

antler ridGe, lot 149 • • • •

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1 bd, 1 ba. 440 +/- sq ft top floor condo overlooks lake in great condition, appliances convey nice upgrades, priced to sell, short sale

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38 October 21, 2011

2,500 +/- sf total, for sale or lease unit 5c1=1,759 +/- sf, $339,000, #169862 unit 5c2=834 +/- sf, $160500, #169863 common kitchenette and bathroom

$396,000 • #174888 • Call eric or stacy 3 bd, 3 ba, 2,054 +/- sf gourmet kitchen, knotty alder cabinets gas rock fireplace, furnishings negotiable deck, 1 car attached garage

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sittinG Bull Hill #16f • • • •

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1 bd, 1 ba. 440 +/- sq ft top floor condo overlooks creek in great condition, appliances convey nice upgrades, priced to sell, short sale

$214,000 • #165108 • Call eric

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asPen drive unit #13 • • • •

$39,900 • #179941 • Call marc

1 bd, 1 ba, 366 +/- sf great views of Spanish Peaks unit for either residential/commerical close to shops and restaurants

Toni Delzer, Sales Associate, 406.570.3195 Anne MacKenzie, Sales Associate, 406.223.1095 Peter MacKenzie, Sales Associate, 406.223.1195 Mark Dobrenski, Sales Associate, 406.599.2175 George Hagar, Sales Associate, 406.580.2248 Marc Lauermann, Sales Assoc., ABR, SFR, 406.581.8242

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Big Sky Weekly

RWanda

Rwanda:

Africa’s comeback kid

By Aubrey Davis

big sky weekly contributor

There’s no shortage of locations in East Africa where travelers can find the quintessential “African” experience.

The region abounds with the kind of wildlife and landscape that most North Americans only find in zoos and National Geographic. And most East African countries (Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda) have safari trips where the local flora and fauna provide thrills and beauty rarely experienced in the United States.

Rwanda is a small country, roughly the size of Maryland, with a population of more than 11 million. It’s just a few degrees from the equator, but with altitudes ranging from 3,000-8,000 feet it boasts an enviably temperate climate.

unique attractions, and you’re left with an experience that you can’t find in any other East African country.

It seems counterintuitive to most Westerners to talk about the safety of Rwanda. Most are only aware of the civil war and genocide of 1994 that claimed nearly a million Rwandan lives and devastated the country’s economy, infrastructure and reputation.

ety of experiences that only Rwanda offers. The Eastern Province (there are five provinces total), Kayonza District, which borders northwest Tanzania, is home to Akagera National Park. Take a game drive here, and you’ll encounter giraffes, buffalo, baboons, monkeys, antelope, impalas, elephants, spotted hyenas, a few lions, crocodiles, and a flamboyant mélange of birds.

In the 17 years since those horrific events, Rwanda has been quietly and determinedly rebuilding. The government has held peaceful democratic elections and taken bold, committed action to return its country and its people to a peaceful, stable society. It’s one of the only countries on track to meet the United Nation’s Millennium Development Goals, and is the only country on the continent to have a female majority in parliament.

A mid-range lodge called Akagera Game Lodge sits atop a ridge overlooking a lake bordered by Tanzania.

Cheeky baboons frequent the outdoor restaurant, and the pool is a clear, clean blue with comfortable lounge chairs on the deck.

Kigali, the capital, is a bastion of order and cleanliness, with paved roads, sidewalks, street lamps, attractive landscaping, and traffic lights so sophisticated they put New York, Chicago and Los Angeles to shame.

Corruption, a common problem that plagues residents and visitors in much of East Africa, is uncommon. You won’t have your luggage rifled through, and you can’t even bribe a local police officer to get out of a speeding ticket, which are regularly given by the patrol officers as commonly as their American counterparts (this may not sound like a positive characteristic, but a functioning police force is a good sign of Kigali, Rwanda Photo by oledoe / www.flickr.com (CC) development and safety quite rare in most African countries). As a result, violent crime is minimal, It’s bordered by Burundi to the south, the Democratic and the general vibe on the streets is quiet but vibrant, Republic of the Congo (formerly Zaire) to the west, even late into the night.

Uganda to the north and Tanzania to the east. The language most commonly spoken is Kinyarwanda, Proudly called the Land of a Thousand Hills, Rwanda and until recently, French was the official language. is a welcome change from the surrounding savannah.

The government recently mandated that English, not Steep, green ridges and peaks stretch in every direcFrench, be taught in the education system. And being tion. In the east and south, the landscape yawns as it surrounded by Swahili speaking countries means that gently rises and falls toward Tanzania and Burundi. if you don’t speak Kinyarwanda you can get by with a The land in the north and west is reminiscent of Japan’s mix of French, English, and Swahili in most places. endless green crests. Roads switchback up and over mountains, and provide views of impossible beauty.

What makes Rwanda unique is the stability and miracLakes nestle between the ridges like missing puzzle ulous development it has secured in the last 15 years. pieces in the landscape.

Combine this with the draws of East Africa, add some Amid the spectacular landscape are a surprising vari-

In the south, Nyungwe National Park is just as beautiful, but boasts a slightly different animal population.

There are 13 different species of smaller primates, including chimpanzees. And in the north, the hiking and mountain biking are unparalleled.

The western end of the country converges with Lake Kivu, where Belgian colonists built the resort town Gisenyi on the northernmost edge of the lake. Just a few miles from the border of DRC, Gisenyi is a tropical beach resort with splendid lodges and hotels—an excellent place to relax after a rigorous weekend of hiking or mountain biking. Though the colonists have long since departed, the area is still a major attraction for both Rwandans and foreigners alike.

The coup de gras of Rwandan tourism is Volcano National Park, in the northwestern district of Musanze. Approaching the district by car from Kigali, five grotesquely magnificent volcanoes rise up over already towering mountains. Just outside the park, several world-class lodges provide luxurious accommodations in bungalows near the volcanoes’ base.

Most offer regular performances of beautiful Rwandan Intore dancing, performed to drumming. The famous silverback gorillas quietly reside on the forested slopes nearby. Although the tracking license is expensive for non-residents, it’s definitely worth the cost, as no other safari in the region can provide such an experience.

Rwanda is a place of beauty, miracles and persistence.

It’s quickly becoming the envy of other countries in the region for its good governance, rapidly improving infrastructure and health care unattainable in most neighboring countries.

Given its history and misrepresentation in the West, Rwanda is miraculously safe and stable. And that matters for travel and tourism. Rwanda is easy to get around, safe to visit, and offers some attractions that one couldn’t experience anywhere else in the region.

Aubrey Davis is a communications officer for Partners in Health in Rwanda.

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October 21, 2011 39

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Big Sky Weekly

Peru

Explore

Peru

Peru is a vast and varied country. In its 496,414 square miles, there are remote rainforests in the Amazon basin, snow-capped peaks in the Andes rising above 20,000 feet, historic colonial architecture, legacies of Incan and other pre-Columbian civilizations, and cultural treasures like beautifully handwoven textiles. Here are a few spots of interest:

story and photos by Felicia ennis

Ballestas Islands Flowing from the equator south along the Peruvian coastline, the Humboldt Current creates a rich marine ecosystem with the largest concentration of birds on Earth – about 7 million in high season. The Ballestas Islands afford a glimpse of rich biodiversity: huge colonies of barking sea lions, endangered turtles, Humboldt penguins, red-footed boobies, pelicans and turkey vultures.

Big SKy WEekly Contributor

Arequipa Peru’s second largest city is known for its colonial center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, containing elegant churches and mansions carved from sillar— white volcanic stone. In the shadow of the volcano El Misti, the city boasts some of the finest colonial architecture in Peru. You won’t want to miss the fine Baroque churches, and the Recoleta and Santa Catalina Monasteries. Arequipa is surrounded by farms producing onions and garlic, which are featured heavily in the local cuisine.

Choquequirao The trek to Choquequirao is 4,000 vertical feet, but the payoff is enormous. Known as the “Cradle of Gold,” this ancient Inca city in the Salcantay Mountains was built in the 15th century as the spiritual retreat of emperor Topa Inca, whose father Pachacuti built the magnificent Machu Picchu. For centuries Choquequirao lay shrouded in obscurity, protected by its remoteness. Today you may explore its palaces and temples, fountains, canals and aqueducts free of the crowds that gather at its sister city Machu Picchu.

Nazca Lines Cusco The historic capital of the Inca Empire possesses an alluring blend of pre-Columbian and colonial history, along with contemporary Mestizo culture—people of mixed European and Amerindian ancestry. The Incas laid the stone streets and building foundations of the city more than five centuries ago.

Highlights include Incan ruins such as Sacsayhuaman; Qoricancha, the Temple of the Sun; and colonial-era Baroque and Renaissance churches and mansions. Cusco is the gateway to the imperial city of Machu Picchu.

Etched into the desert along Peru’s southern coast, the Nazca Lines are one of South America’s great mysteries.

These 10,000 shallow designs in the ground were made between 300 B.C. and A.D. 700, and depict varied shapes like a monkey, spider, hummingbird, fish, and abstract triangles and trapezoids. Archaeologist Johan Reinhard, who extensively studied Nazca, theorizes the lines served in religious ceremonies associated with the availability of water. They’re best seen from the air.

Cordillera Blanca Referred to as the Peruvian Andes, the Cordillera Blanca is the world’s highest tropical mountain range. Almost the entire range is glaciated, and it forms the continental divide of Peru. The range is 110 kilometers long and only 12 km wide. Waters on its eastern slopes flow through to the Atlantic Ocean, while western slopes drain into the Pacific. It is a mountaineers’ and hikers’ paradise.

Machu Picchu The magical “lost city of the Incas” is South America’s greatest archeological attraction and one of the few Inca sites that is relatively intact. Missed by the raiding Spaniards, then revealed to the world in 1911 by Yale scholar Hiram Bingham, Machu Picchu lay undisturbed for more than four centuries. The city is cradled in the arms of the Andes and is regularly shrouded in mist. Its staircases and terraces, granite and limestone temples, gardens, and aqueducts were designed in harmony with the landscape, and are prime examples of the Incan belief in sacred geography.

.com

We provide expert travel consultation, custom itineraries, budget options, local guides and bookings all over the world.

Felicia Ennis owns and operates the Livingston-based travel company, Bella Treks. bellatreks.com

406.223.2595 • travel @bellatreks.com Torres del Paine National Park photo by Felicia Ennis

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October 21, 2011 41

Big Sky Weekly

Australia

Double-head island Photos courtesy of René Kraus

Travel in North Queensland, Australia Part Three: Palm Cove and The Great Barrier Reef

By René Kraus

has it no building can be built taller than a palm tree.

Traveling north from Cairns, a series of beach communities lines the Captain Cook Highway.

A row of majestic Melaleuca trees line Williams Esplanade, the main street. Some of these rare and protected trees are hundreds of years old, and shops have built floors and ceilings specifically to accommodate them. Tea tree oil, a medicinal product, is derived from them, and is used to treat a variety of ailments including sore throats and skin rashes.

big sky weekly contributor

The last two towns before Port Douglas are Palm Cove and Ellis Beach. For the final stretch of our 10-day trip, we stayed in Palm Cove, and from there we explored the surrounding areas, including a day trip to the Great Barrier Reef.

Palm Cove, named for the fringe of palm trees lining the u-shaped beach, is a quiet, undeveloped resort town.

There are no chain restaurants, no GAP stores, no 7-Elevens. Legend

Williams Esplanade has galleries, open-air restaurants, accommodations of all levels, and world-class spas. There are no buildings directly on the beach, which is reserved for water sports, swimming and

incredible sunsets. Looking slightly north from the beach, just a few miles from the shore, is DoubleHead Island, a privately owned resort on a large island.

One of Palm Cove’s first resorts was the Reef House, originally built as a private residence and family retreat by a Cairns bookkeeper. A local swimming pool proprietor, heavily in debt to the owner, promised to build him the best swimming pool in Queensland. Today, guests of the famed Reef House enjoy this beautiful pool, complete with a waterfall and extensive gardens.

We rented a car and drove 45 minutes to Port Douglas, a major port 45 minutes north of Palm Cove, and the departure point to the Great Barrier Reef. From there we took a 90-minute cruise out to the reef, where the ship docked at a large, stationary platform. We enjoyed a buffet with unlimited shrimp, salads, breads, cheeses and beverages, then sunned ourselves on the wide open decks.

My travel companion’s son took his first dive during our visit—the look on his face when he surfaced from the

reef was priceless. We also took advantage of snorkeling and the glassbottom viewing submarine. There were changing rooms and showers (cold water only!) on board, so we were able to freshen up before heading back.

On the way home, we stopped to explore Port Douglas, which is much larger than Palm Cove and has many more shops and restaurants. We stopped at a few open-air restaurants for drinks and to listen to live music and decide where to have dinner.

While walking up and down the streets, we read several posted menus, but one in particular stood out.

Following a crushed seashell path through a tropical garden, we came upon the incredible outdoor dining area of the Nautilus restaurant. This oasis looked like a movie set.

For over 50 years The Nautilus has served both locals and visitors. The house specialty was whole coral trout, a delicious perch-like fish native to the barrier reefs.

Soon, it was time to leave Australia.

We spent our last few days lounging at the pool, walking the esplanade, and taking in the beauty of Palm Cove. It had been a fabulous trip, and we vowed to return, hopefully in the not-too-distant future.

Above: Leaving Port Douglas via Catamaran Right: Palm Cove

42 October 21, 2011

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René Kraus is a communications consultant and freelance writer.

Rene works with individuals and organizations to develop strategic and effective communications. An avid traveler, she writes to share the beauty of the world at large. Contact her at Renekraus100@gmail.com.

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Big Sky Weekly

Maine

Fiat: the Maine experience whenever we moved faster than 60 mph, because it felt like any sharp curve or a strong gust of wind would throw the whole car off the road.

I also got nervous whenever we passed a “moose crossing” sign. A moose is much bigger than our little Fi, and I shuddered at the thought of what could happen.

But there was another side to this story. Including our drive to New York, we only filled up the tank twice, not spending more than $31 either time. Given the simplicity of the car, it was easy to figure out where everything was and the purpose the car served.

And when we finally drove into Fryeburg, parking at the fair was sold out. We found a small opening on a patch of grass that no other car could fit into and sped into it, knowing only the Fiat could have performed so well.

BY Holly Gumz

Big Sky Weekly Contributor

The best question someone could ask me is, “want to go for a ride?”

It’s my favorite question in the world.

When I was just a little fraulein, my mother would bathe me, dress me in my pajamas and then put me in my car seat, snuggled up against my baby blanket.

Then, we’d go for a drive. She’d stop, under the cover of night, and walk into an open field swarming with fireflies, then stand, holding me for what felt like hours, watching the lightening bugs.

Those were some of the most magical moments of my childhood.

She eventually returned me to my car seat, finally asleep, then drove home and put me to bed. (No doubt thankful for some time to herself—I hear I was a handful as a child.)

These memories are still fresh in my mind, and they’ve become somewhat of a burden on my driving habits today. I’ve never been able to drive a car at night; I inevitably get tired and start yawning once the sun sets. I can, however, sit in a car for hours, calm, just watching the scenery fly by.

This fall, my boyfriend and I drove from Big Sky to Maine. When in Maine, we zipped around in a rented Fiat. The Fiat, or “Fi” as I’ve been calling her, was by far the smallest car I’ve ever ridden in. Despite my history with soothing car rides, Fi was a difficult adjustment.

Everything was designed for someone half my size.

She had very few knobs or dials, and the simplicity was overwhelming.

The radio was controlled from the steering wheel, and the air controls were on the dash. There was only one armrest, and it was on the driver’s side. The headrests were the size of a small cantaloupe and they were for fashion, not function (a seven-hour car ride to New York taught me this hard-learned lesson). The dashboard jut into the car a mere 10 inches, making it impossible throw up your legs and move the blood collected in your feet back toward the rest of your body.

There was a trunk, but if you wanted to stash anything more than a lunch box and change of clothes, it was time to rethink your options.

Coming home to Maine, especially with company, usually means day trips.

On this trip my boyfriend was eager to see my home turf and all its coastal glory. We toured my hometown, and every neighboring town.

We drove the coastal Route 1, which is beautiful, especially in the fall, and Fi was with us the whole time.

At the end of a week filled with the classic sights and sounds of down east Maine, it was time to return the car. I felt mixed emotion as I handed over the keys to the woman at the counter. For all the times we’d cursed her, the Fiat had performed perfectly, and required very little financial compensation throughout our adventures.

“...the Fiat had performed perfectly, and required very little financial compensation throughout our adventures.”

She was with us for the trip to see my friend get married in Lake Placid, NY. That particular trip taught me the Fiat wasn’t designed for long days of driving. Fi was also with us when we drove an hour and a half west to the Fryeburg Fair (Maine’s largest fair, it hosts lumberjack races and the state skillet-throwing contest—a thing of redneck beauty).

It was a perfect fall day, bluebird and sunny, when we said our goodbyes to Fi. As we walked towards our Land Cruiser (which seems a bit beastly for me now) I had an epiphany: Regardless of how uncomfortable, cramped and contorted I was while twisting and turning through my old stomping grounds, one look out the car window was enough to put me at ease.

Like mom’s car rides when I was younger, the sights and sounds of Maine had a calming sense that left me at peace.

Just one glance out my rear windshield at sunset over Dromore Bay was all I needed to breathe a little deeper and easier.

On that trip, while sitting in mile-long bumper-to-bumper traffic, we found the Fiat’s “air conditioning” was akin to a hair dryer blowing forth lukewarm air. It wouldn’t have been so bad, except we were moving at an average speed of 1/10 a mile every 20 minutes.

And so, it was with a bit of sadness that I dropped Fi off at Enterprise, hoping the next renter gets the views and perspectives she afforded me those few days.

Given the Fiat’s low clearance, you’re prone to feel every bump and pothole on the road, and Maine has a lot.

Night driving was scary. If a car came up behind you, its lights flashed in every mirror, practically blinding the driver. My heart beat wildly and my palms sweated

Holly Gumz is a freelance writer who has lived in Big Sky since 2008. An avid outdoors-woman and travel enthusiast, she eagerly awaits her next adventure in Maine.

explorebigsky.com

October 21, 2011 45

Big Sky Weekly

Patagonia

The Wave Effect

Climbing Patagonia

Whit Magro leads Desmochada

By Whit Magro

Big Sky Weekly Contributor

We were sitting on a sandy ledge, below an enormous granite spire called Aguja Desmochada. The needle-like spire of perfect granite shot straight up for 2,000 feet above us. To the south of Desmochada, in a perfect succession rose two more towers: Aguja de la Silla and then Cerro Fitz Roy, the largest tower in the massif, and the namesake of the range.

The Fitz Roy Massif, one of the world’s most wild and sought after mountain ranges, is part of Argentina’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (the Glaciers National Park), in Patagonia. Near the southern tip of South America, this region has some of the worst weather in the world.

It was the end of February, the middle of Patagonian summer, right after the full moon. Good weather windows earlier that month had dried everything out, which is a rare event.

nearly 7,000 feet of vertical rock climbing, linking up these three peaks had never been done before, and was one of the few remaining prizes in the Fitz Roy range.

of more challenging climbing, and then we were at the crux. The 200-foot pitch started with a hard boulder problem and led into a steep and sustained finger crack we rated 5.12+.

We spent two days approaching from the nearest town of El Chalten, Argentina. The first to our base camp, and then that morning we’d crossed the Torre Glacier and then scrambled and climbed up gullies of mixed rock and snow to reach the base of Desmoshada. Having checked the weather, we knew a big high-pressure system was headed our way.

This was very uncommon, and we wanted to take full advantage of it.

Finding few holds, I took about 20 minutes to get it figured out, with Josh and Nate coaching me from below. Josh and I had been here the year before, but were thwarted by bad weather and icy cracks, so I’d been thinking about this section of rock climbing for the past year. Cranking past the boulder problem, I was focused. I knew I couldn’t fall or I’d hit the ledge.

(From left to right) Nate “Special Opps” Opp and Whit Magro on Silla’s summit

We planned meticulously for speed, mostly by sacrificing comfort for the ability to travel extremely light. Between us, we had only one sleeping bag, a two-pound tent, and a jetboil stove. It was in the upper 30s during most nights, so we were a little chilly. To sleep, we put on all our clothes, draped the sleeping bag over us like a blanket, and lay down on the ropes and backpacks.

Photo Courtesy of Josh Wharton

I was there with climbing partners Nate Opp, a Big Sky ski patroller and mountain guide out of Bozeman, and Josh Wharton, a full time climber from of Estes, Colo.

The next morning we got up pre-dawn and brewed instant coffee. Our strategy was to lead in 1,000-foot blocks: The lead climber carried only the rope and rack, and the two guys following ascended the ropes with our overnight gear and food. The goal was to have the leader free climb everything with no falls.

Our lofty goal was to do an enchainment of Desmochada, De la Silla and Fitz Roy. With a total gain of

It was my block first. We moved through the first 400 feet of easy climbing together, then I led a short pitch

STATS

Photo courtesy of Josh Wharton

Every rope length we went up the more committing it became. The realization set in that until we were done with this colossal enchainment, we were living in the dangers of a vertical world. Funny thing was that’s exactly where we wanted to be.

The rest of Desmochada was sustained and brilliant 5.10 and 5.11. It went really fast. My block ended on a large ledge, where Josh took over the lead. His block took us up to a knife-edge ridge that ended in the big sloping wedge-like summit. The wind was blasting off the southern ice cap from the west at steady 40 mph, gusting into the 50s, so we held on tight.

Traversing over the top, the hardest climbing was behind us.

Using our ropes to descend, we did two rappels down off the backside toward our next tower, De la Silla.

We stopped at a small ledge on the side of the wall and decided to spend the night there. Using his trail building skills, Nate plugged boulders into a trough and built a “flat surface” where we could set up our tent.

We cooked our freeze-dried dinners, split up a stick of salami, and went to bed at dark. Sleeping with stacked rocks digging into our backs was not comfortable at all, and we were in and out of sleep all night.

At dawn, we had coffee and a civilized breakfast of granola with dried fruit and nuts, and then we were off.

A thousand feet of rappelling later, we were hanging at the side of an ice sheet in the saddle between Desmo-

1900m, 5.12+

2000 ft, 5.12+

2000 ft, 5.12+

2000 ft, 5.11+

THE WAVE EFFECT

Aguja Desmochada THE BRASS PARROT a new free route combining three existing routes

Aguja de la Silla Vertical Current, new route

Cerro Fitz Roy Five hours on the California Route,

46 October 21, 2011

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Big Sky Weekly

Patagonia chada and De la Silla. We had three pairs of crampons, but only one ice tool between us. Tying our two ropes together, I led 400 feet across the snow and ice field, kicking steps into the exposed 60-degree slope. Josh and Nate followed, rocks in hand in case they slipped and had to stop themselves.

At the base of De la Silla, Nate took over the lead.

From photos I’d taken the year before, we’d scouted the path of least resistance to the summit, which would be a new route. Nate rapidly led 1,200 feet up the wall to the notch between Fitz Roy and De la Silla.

We called the route Vertical Current.

The weather was starting to deteriorate. Clouds were building but thankfully the wind wasn’t. We couldn’t see across the valley, and Fitz Roy was engulfed in clouds. At this point, the easiest way out was to finish the traverse.

We left our bags at the notch between Silla and Fitz Roy where Nate’s block ended, and I led another 800 feet to the teeny, pointy two-foot wide summit of De la Silla. Really cool. Clouds swirled around us as we rappelled down to the gear we’d left at the notch.

“We’re doing it!” was our motto as we kept ticking off summits. One more to go. Fitz Roy would be the highest point of our enchainment, but thankfully not the hardest. Our bodies were beginning to wear, but our spirits were still high, and our bags kept getting lighter.

Morning brought a whiteout—not ideal, but we proceeded with our morning rituals anyway. Josh got our climbing gear organized and prepped for his next lead block, and Nate and I packed up camp.

We couldn’t believe we might actually pull this off.

As we climbed, it was A white line illustrates the route taken on the Wave Effect project so foggy that we often couldn’t see Josh at the Luckily we’d all been to the top of Fitz before, so we end of the rope, and we didn’t really know where we knew how to get down. Nate a.k.a. “Special Opps” were on the route. We just put our heads down, and safely led all the rappels, and it took us eight hours one step at a time sped up Fitz Roy. On the upper ridge to descend more than 2,000 feet to the mountain’s we started simul-climbing, still roped in, but all movglaciated shoulder, where we spent our last night. ing together.

We woke to the most amazing morning I’ve ever At one point, we stopped for 10 minutes to drink seen. Below us, a sea of clouds stretched as far as we water out of a pothole carved into the rock by wind could see. Only the summits of this amazing mounand weather. We each carried straws, and that’s how we tain range poked through. We made it back to town stayed hydrated throughout the trip. that afternoon, hungry and tired.

We kept climbing, winding up and around rock towers and over technical ground.

We crossed another ice col, this one only 20 feet across, and then a long moderate rock pitch brought us to the shoulder of Fitz Roy, at the base of the famous California Route. We were psyched!

“La cumbre!” Josh shouted when he reached the summit. It was 2 p.m., and he’d led the entire 2,000 feet up Fitz Roy in only five hours and did an amazing job finding his way with the poor visibility.

We stopped there for the night, finishing off our last dinners. From there, we could see climbers descending from Fitz Roy’s east shoulder, heading back toward base camp and town. We hoped to be at that very spot by the following evening.

We were so tired and drained it was almost emotional. We’d been going for five days straight since leaving town. Enamored and awestruck, we rejoiced in total whiteout.

In a way, we climbed The Wave Effect for Bean Bowers, a mutual friend who was the first to suggest the enchainment. It was his vision, he named it, and we had plans at one point to climb it with him also. Sadly he discovered he had metastic cancer that December before we left, and he passed away this spring.

Whit Magro climbs professionally and is co-owner of Stronghold Fabrication, a metal fabrication and fine blacksmithing shop. He lives in Bozeman with his family.

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Big Sky Weekly

Italy

Hello, Michelangelo

By Abbie Digel

editor, big sky weekly

As an English major in college, I took an interest in the works of Italian poet and political figure Dante Alighieri. He was influential in Italian culture, and his heartbreaking relationship with a woman named Beatrice fascinated me.

In March 2008, I spent time in Florence and Rome studying the connection between Dante’s Divine Comedy, a work I largely focused on at Colorado College, and Michelangelo, the great Renaissance artist.

We spent over an hour in silence, shuffling around the open, empty space, enchanted. Our necks craned toward the ceiling as we admired one of Michelango’s most famous works.

First, I took in the Last Judgment scene, which looms heavy behind the pulpit, the larger-than-life depiction shows humans during their last hour, Jesus Christ, hands braced in the air, damning some to hell, and others slowly making their way to heaven, bearing crosses.

In between visits to museums and churches, I hovered over textbooks and wrote long entries in my journal, trying My feet ached In between visits to museums and churches, from standing to figure out the I hovered over textbooks and wrote long artistic influence and staring at entries in my journal, trying to figure out the and connections art for the past artistic influence and connections between between Dante’s two weeks. visceral Comme- Dante’s visceral Commedia and Michelangelo’s art, while sneaking chocolate pastries and Adjacent to dia and Michelmany carafes of house vino. angelo’s art, this scene are while sneaking the ignudi. chocolate pastries and many carafes of house vino.

Michelangelo coined this phrase to describe the 20 nude males he Art history was not my forte. I preferred pouring painted that have no correlation to over long literary texts, reading sentences out the bible and a candid similarity to loud and taking notes in the margins, lingering on the bodies of modern super-heroes. certain words. Analyzing art was difficult for me; Alongside them are the sibyls— the painter has already done the work for you, I prophetic women holding scribes. They are said to thought, so it seemed like watching the moviehave predicted the birth of Christ. version of a book. Where’s the imagination in that?

More human-like than the biblical figures painted on the ceiling and in the Last Judgment, these figures Then one evening, my class had the rare opporencompass what some of my textbooks called, “the tunity for a private viewing of the Sistine Chahuman realm,” and what I like to call “our space.” pel in the Vatican. We arrived at twilight, and These frescoes were easier to see—thus easier to three Vatican guards and a few policia ushered relate to and more accessible to my inadequate artus through the Vatican gates and through the viewing eye.

Chapel entrance.

It must have been easier for Michelangelo to paint I’d read in my textbooks about Michelangelo’s dethese human figures. They were replicas of live piction of the Last Judgment through a narrative humans containing fleshy bodies and intact souls. I sequence of biblical figures, and I entered with a wanted to touch them. The way they were painted, preconceived notion of the fresco. with faint sunlight shining on the curves of their

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“Creation of man”

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“The Last Judgement”

muscles and long faces, their skin seemed warm and soft to the touch.

The Biblical stories depicted on the ceiling of the Chapel were painted with a different style than the ignudi or sybils. I recognized most of them with my faint knowledge of Bible stories, and from the post cards and figures street vendors sell around the city. I found Adam, Eve, Noah, and the famous scene of God giving life to Adam, their arms outspread, fingers about to touch, as if sparks were about to fly.

After a couple more moments lingering on the fleshy, huge bodies of the men and women and Michelangelo’s limbo, I came down from my thoughts, my head spinning. I felt my feet on the ground, touched my fingers to my forearm, licked my lips. Flesh, but not quite divine.