Explore Big Sky - May 4 to 17, 2023

FOO FIGHTERS AND LORD HURON TO HEADLINE WILDLANDS FESTIVAL

COMMUNITY RALLIES AROUND THE LONE PEAK TRAM

TIGER GRANT TO CAUSE SUMMER TRAFFIC

DEQ MOVES TO LIST GALLATIN RIVER AS IMPAIRED BEAR SPRAY RENTALS AVAILABLE IN BIG SKY

May 4-17, 2023

Volume 14, Issue No. 9

Owned and published in Big Sky, Montana

PUBLISHER

Eric Ladd | eric@theoutlawpartners.com

EDITORIAL

MANAGING EDITOR

Jason Bacaj | jason@theoutlawpartners.com

STAFF WRITER

Jack Reaney | jack@theoutlawpartners.com

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT

Leslie Kilgore | leslie@theoutlawpartners.com

CREATIVE

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Trista Hillman | trista@theoutlawpartners.com

SALES AND OPERATIONS

CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER

Megan Paulson | megan@theoutlawpartners.com

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER

Treston Wold | treston@theoutlawpartners.com

VP DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Hiller Higman | hiller@theoutlawpartners.com

MEDIA AND EVENTS DIRECTOR

Ersin Ozer | ersin@theoutlawpartners.com

MARKETING MANAGER

Sophia Breyfogle | sophia@theoutlawpartners.com

CONTENT PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Mira Brody | mira@theoutlawpartners.com

MARKETING COORDINATOR

Tucker Harris | tucker@theoutlawpartners.com

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT

Sara Sipe | sara@theoutlawpartners.com

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT LEAD

Patrick Mahoney | patrick@theoutlawpartners.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Danny Bierschwale, Victoria Eavis, Darrel Ehrlick, Jacob Fischler, Jacob W. Frank, Gus Hammond, Marne Hayes, Rachel Hergett, Benjamin Alva Polley, Erica Rosenberg, Paul Swenson.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

COMMUNITY RALLIES AROUND THE LONE PEAK TRAM

In the final chapter of Explore Big Sky’s series honoring the history of the Lone Peak Tram, local legends and dirtbags share their memories. Closing Day brought reflections from the community, including Dirtbag Kings and Queens, who looked back on 27 years as the tram completed its last lap.

TIGER GRANT TO CAUSE SUMMER TRAFFIC

Long-term infrastructure will benefit, but short-term traffic will suffer. This summer, federally funded road improvements along Montana Highway 64 (Lone Mountain Trail) will jam up Big Sky’s already crowded corridor. Crews will tackle a dozen projects between the Conoco and Big Sky Resort, in various phases from May to October.

DEQ MOVES TO LIST GALLATIN RIVER AS IMPAIRED

On April 13, dozens of river miles took a step in the right direction—officials and activists say that while it sounds like a bad thing, “impairment” designation represents the Montana Department of Environmental Quality’s acknowledgement that recent algal blooms are worthy of future study, and perhaps stricter policy enforcement to protect the middle section of the Gallatin River.

ON THE COVER:

Outlaw Partners, the publisher of Explore Big Sky, is excited to announce the lineup for the summer’s 2023 Wildlands Festival. Rock & Roll Hall of Famers, Foo Fighters, are set to headline the Sunday, Aug. 6 event for their first performance in Big Sky and an unforgettable evening at the intimate 5,000-person Big Sky Events Arena. Lord Huron will headline the Saturday, Aug. 5 show. A portion of ticket proceeds will benefit American Rivers and Big Sky’s Gallatin River Task Force. COVER ART BY COREY ELLBOGEN BEANS

EDITORIAL POLICIES

EDITORIAL POLICY

Outlaw Partners, LLC is the sole owner of Explore Big Sky. EBS reserves the right to edit all submitted material. Printed material reflects the opinion of the author and is not necessarily the opinion of Outlaw Partners or its editors. EBS will not publish anything discriminatory or in bad taste.

EBS welcomes obituaries written by family members or from funeral homes. To place an obituary, please submit 500 words or less to media@theoutlawpartners.com.

BEAR SPRAY RENTALS AVAILABLE IN BIG SKY

Starting May 15, Hey Bear will offer affordable bear spray rentals through a new partnership with Bear Aware, a company founded in Yellowstone National Park and now based in Jackson Hole. Rentals can be both picked up and dropped off across Bear Aware’s regional network of vendors and drop boxes. The partnership reduces waste, and reduces cost barrier for visitors to travel safely in bear country.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Letters to the editor allow EBS readers to express views and share how they would like to effect change. These are not Thank You notes. Letters should be 250 words or less, respectful, ethical, accurate, and proofread for grammar and content. We reserve the right to edit letters and will not publish individual grievances about specific businesses or letters that are abusive, malicious or potentially libelous. Include: full name, address, phone number and title. Submit to media@outlaw.partners.

ADVERTISING DEADLINE

For the May 18, 2023 issue: May 10, 2023

CORRECTIONS

Please report errors to media@outlaw.partners.

OUTLAW PARTNERS & EXPLORE BIG SKY P.O. Box 160250, Big Sky, MT 59716 (406) 995-2055 • media@theoutlawpartners.com

© 2023 Explore Big Sky unauthorized reproduction prohibited

IN LATE APRIL, THE BRIDGER MOUNTAINS WERE HIT WITH AN UNEXPECTED 40-INCH STORM. LITTLE SNOW FELL ELSEWHERE AROUND SOUTHWEST MONTANA, AND BACKCOUNTRY SKIERS WERE ABLE TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE FRESH SNOW BY SKINNING UP THE CLOSED BRIDGER BOWL SKI AREA. THIS PHOTO SHOWS THE FRESH BLANKET OF SNOW AND THE SKIN TRACK LEADING UP TO BRADLEY MEADOWS ON APRIL 22. PHOTO BY JASON BACAJ

ALL INFORMATION PROVIDED IS DEEMED RELIABLE BUT IS NOT GUARANTEED AND SHOULD BE INDEPENDENTLY VERIFIED. INFORMATION AND DEPICTIONS ARE SUBJECT TO ERRORS, OMISSIONS, PRIOR SALES, PRICE CHANGES OR WITHDRAWAL WITHOUT NOTICE. NO GOVERNMENTAL AGENCY HAS JUDGED THE MERITS OR VALUE, IF ANY, OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS ADVERTISEMENT OR ANY REAL ESTATE DESCRIBED OR DEPICTED HEREIN. THIS MATERIAL SHALL NOT CONSTITUTE AN OFFER TO SELL IN ANY STATE OR OTHER JURISDICTION WHERE PRIOR REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED OR WHERE SUCH AN OFFER WOULD BE PROHIBITED, AND THIS SHALL NOT CONSTITUTE A SOLICITATION IF YOU ARE WORKING WITH ANOTHER REAL ESTATE AGENT. NOTHING HEREIN SHALL BE CONSTRUED AS

OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL ADVICE.

LOCAL NEWS IN BRIEF

ZEPHYR,

CONSTITUENTS, CHALLENGE

HOUSE DISCIPLINARY ACTION IN COURT

EBS STAFF

Missoula Rep. Zooey Zephyr has filed a lawsuit challenging the disciplinary action that banned the Democrat from the House floor, anteroom or gallery, the latest in a standoff between Zephyr and Republican leaders consuming the final days in the 68th Montana Legislature. The lawsuit, filed May 1 by the Montana American Civil Liberties Union and a pair of private law firms, alleges that the order barring Zephyr from participating in floor debates violates her constitutional rights and deprives her 11,000 constituents from representation.

The suit, which names the state, House Speaker Matt Regier and House Sergeant of Arms Brad Murfitt as defendants, specifically contends that the decision to discipline Zephyr violates her rights to free speech and equal protection under the law.

It asks a Helena district judge to prevent Regier, R-Kalispell, and the other defendants from enforcing the terms of Zephyr’s censure and to compel them to recognize Zephyr to speak on the House floor.

HEGBEN LAKE RANGER DISTRICT ROADS AND TRAILS OPENINGS DELAYED

EBS STAFF

The Hegben Lake Ranger District will delay opening some roads that were previously scheduled to open on May 1 due to heavy spring snow accumulation. Those roads likely won’t open before May 15.

The roads include Whits Lake Road, Red Canyon Road, East Cougar Creek Road, Cougar Creek Road, Pine Needle Road, Madison Arm Road, Little Snowy Road, Denny Creek Road, and South Plateau Road.

Reservable campgrounds will be available for reservations between May 26 and Sept. 24. Baker’s Hole Campground is fully open with all sites currently first come first served.

Campground sites that open before May 26 are first come first serve campsites which include Rainbow Point Campground, Lonesomehurst Campground, Cherry Creek Campground, Spring Creek Campground, Cabin Creek Campground, and Beaver Creek Campground.

“We ask the public to help us by honoring these closures and staying off roads and trails when they are too wet to travel on,” said Jason Brey, district ranger.

FWP: BOATERS SHOULD BE PREPARED FOR HIGH WATER THIS SPRING

EBS STAFF

With high levels of snow and warm temperatures this spring, boaters can expect high waters soon. The combination of high water and high expectations can be deadly when conditions are too extreme for safe boating.

It can be hard to put safety ahead of adventure when you’ve spent hours planning a boat trip, but sometimes the only safe choice is to stay off the water.

All water users should wear a well-fitted personal floatation device when on and around the water. If you fall into cold water without a life jacket, you could drown in a matter of minutes.

There are times when the dangers aren’t readily apparent until boaters have entered the water. Boaters should make a study of high-water hazards and be prepared to copy with dangers that may include: debris, cold water, submerged logs, bridge abutments, muddy water that obscures hazards and hypothermia. Boaters shouldn’t assume a river is the same as it was during a prior trip as channels change and new hazards may exist.

MUSEUM OF THE YELLOWSTONE TO OPEN MAY 13

EBS STAFF

The Museum of the Yellowstone is opening its 2023 season on Saturday, May 13, at 11 a.m. The museum is located a block from the west gate of Yellowstone National Park, and celebrates the rich history and natural wonders of Yellowstone and the surrounding areas, offering visitors an unforgettable experience.

Visitors to the museum will discover exhibits exploring the park, from the stagecoach days and the coming of the Union Pacific Railroad to West Yellowstone. This year visitors will have a special opportunity to view the traveling exhibit The Journey of the Resilient Niimiipuu (Nez Perce) People from the Ravalli County Museum & Historical Society. After June 1, a second traveling exhibit, All Set for the West, will arrive from the Union Pacific Railroad Museum.

The museum will be open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

PUBLIC COMMENT OPENS FOR PROPOSED ROAD RESURFACING IN GALLATIN CANYON

EBS STAFF

A public comment period has opened for a proposed resurfacing of about 4 miles of U.S. Highway 191 from near the Lava Lake trailhead north to about Storm Castle Road, the Montana Department of Transportation announced Tuesday.

Members of the public can submit comments online at https://www.mdt. mt.gov/contact/comment-form.aspx or in writing to the Montana Department of Transportation, Butte office, PO Box 3068, Butte, MT, 59702-3068. Comments must be noted that they’re for project UPN 9472000, according to a press release.

Proposed work includes milling the existing surface, applying a new overlay and finishing with chip seal, bridge repairs, upgraded pavement markings and signage. The overall intent is to preserve and maintain the existing roadway’s surface.

The project is tentatively scheduled for 2024, but depends on completion of project development activities and available funding, the release states.

Lone Peak Cannabis Co is looking for a full-time retail associate in their Ennis shop! Interested?

Contact Casey Olivera at 805-266-3101 or caseyolivera@yahoo.com

THE LAST LAP PART III: DEATH, TAXES AND CHANGE

COMMUNITY RALLIES AROUND THE LONE PEAK TRAM’S LAST DAY

“The Last Lap” is a three-part series commemorating the origins, glory years and final days of a defining era for American skiing.

BY JACK REANEY

BIG SKY—As the gate beeped his 93rd day at Big Sky Resort, Dave Stergar issued a correction to Explore Big Sky: “It’s actually more like 118 total,” he said, adding days at his local Great Divide Ski Area, and occasional Yellowstone Club invitations.

Two weeks before the season’s end, “Stergy” rode the tram with EBS.

A retired middle school science teacher living between Helena and his Big Sky condo, Stergar has held a Big Sky season pass for 33 years.

Nearing the top of Swifty, he offered the adage, “only two things are certain: death and taxes,” before making another correction: “Taxes aren’t even guaranteed,” he said. Change is more certain, he countered. “Death, taxes and change.”

Change looms ahead in the new Lone Peak Tram.

On more than one chairlift, Stergar shared excitement for the new machine. He said there’s no purpose in groaning about change. And, like fellow pre-tram peak hiker Tom Jungst, Stergar remembers how much good came of change in 1995.

“It’s going to, again, change the way you ski the peak—for the better,” he said. From the base of the bowl, the new tram won’t require Powder Seeker chairlift rides, as the current tram mostly does. Next year, more descents of Lone Mountain’s south face will return to the tram.

“It’s gonna be fun to figure out the new tram and how you ski it,” Stergar said.

By 9:13 a.m., we stood beside the tram’s bottom station in warm shade—the April 10 sun would top 50 degrees mid-mountain, closing the bowl, the gullies, Lenin and Marx. Chunky wet-slide debris rested beneath many south-facing steeps.

Waiting for the tram to open, Stergar leaned against the railing and chatted with two other early birds. By 9:25, we climbed the stairs. Before boarding the tin can, Stergar grinned.

“I think we should ski North Summit Snowfield,” he said, quietly.

Toward the top, he whispered to be ready to move. When the door opened, Stergar led the polite, boot-running charge to the penalty box where we signed our right to descend first.

Stergar applauds John Kircher for his courage, leadership and his vision of the Lone Peak Tram. He said the biggest change since 1995 has been ski patrol’s growth.

“I think Big Sky Ski Patrol is the best in the world,” Stergar said. “That terrain, the snowpack is so

funky—our guys and gals are so knowledgeable about the three different aspects they’re working with.”

We skied North Summit Snowfield twice, as slush climbed higher with the rising sun.

By our third long-lap, patrol closed everything besides Liberty Bowl and the Snowfield. Descending the softening North Summit, fate shone clear through the April sky: the winter of 2022-23, marked by consistent cold and snowfall, was melting down.

The Lone Peak Tram’s days were numbered.

April 23, 2023

When the day came, Swifty opened at 8:58 a.m.

“Alright folks, tram’s closed today,” one lifty shouted. “You’ll have to try again next year!”

Swift Current’s first chair disembarked like a Nordic race, as riders skated toward the bowl. The A-Z chutes were golden, sugar-coated beneath a cool bluebird sky.

On the Powder Seeker chairlift, one boy rumored that the new Lone Peak Tram will serve food and drink—but he’s doubtful. His dad joked about piano concerts in the spacious cabin.

After the second leg of the first-tram-scramble, Eli, a regular tram operator, turned down the music and addressed the early tram line through the PA system:

“Alright everybody, this is the last day of the tram. This is the end of the era… We’re gonna keep it goin all day for you…”

RESORT OFFICIALS WERE VERY ACCOMMODATING OF THE DIRTBAGS’ LAST-TRAM EFFORTS. PHOTO BY JACK REANEY

“The only reason I’m at Big Sky is to ski that tram. The tram is why I’m up there”

--EARL BANG

By 9:28, the last day’s first tram-lapper returned: George Suehnholz told EBS he “barely missed first bucket,” but because most of that first crew ran for the Big Couloir, Suehnholz scored first descent from First Gully into Cron’s, carving cue-ball corduroy like a cowboy in his full denim, orange boot outfit. He beat the tram back down.

As EBS loaded into the fourth bucket, Eli shouted, “I’m gonna be spinning this thing all day. I’m not stopping until somebody calls me…”

Nearing the peak, a patroller set the stage: “Well heck yeah, folks. Welcome to farewell day here on the summit. Everything is open except the North Summit.”

A few voices responded, among this intimate and fleeting collection of 15.

“Thanks for a great year,” one said. “Yeah, thanks,” said another, and a few more echoed.

Entering the top station, a speaker blasting Yellowman’s “Morning Ride” filled the quiet, nearmotionless tram—a reggae soundtrack for this gleaming April 23 morning.

But if the tram had a soundtrack, it was scored by Terry Stebbins.

‘I’ll ride the tram and ski with you’

Stebbins bummed in Big Sky from 1998 to 2007, chasing waves in the warmer months. To support skiing, he worked as a grocer and picked up regular guitar gigs.

Unfortunately, powder cut into his practice time. Instead of learning new songs, he’d change lyrics and sing about the day’s conditions. Today, his music remains a fixture in local ski edits, like the dirtbags’ 2023 Tram Tribute.

Stebbins remembers one morning, when he followed powder from Liberty Bowl to Bavaria and caught the Hippie Highway, while adapting Willie Nelson into what became his favorite parody:

“On the slopes again, like a band of dirtbags we ski the Hippie Highway,” Stebbins hummed. And that’s how he wrote most of his tunes, themed around dirtbags, gapers, patrollers, Bridger Bowl, Jackson Hole, and of course, the tram.

Other favorites include, “I’ll ride the tram and ski with you,” to the tune of Modern English, and his John Denver tributes: “No friends on a pow day,” and “Middle Road.”

“The tram is IT,” he told EBS. “It’s 100% your world. It’s all you think about. It gives you everything. It provides all. It’s like the center of the universe. And, like, the bullwheel… when that thing starts turning, your world is in motion.”

Stebbins said it’s the fountain of youth. The giver of life. In 1999, he met his wife in Big Sky.

“The bullwheel and the tram was our focus then,” Stebbins said. “And here we are, 23 years later, with a family because of the Lone Peak Tram. People fall in love with that tram.”

Stebbins raved that nothing will straighten priorities like skiing the peak, breathing cold air, feeling the earth, being with epic people, moving and being healthy. The tram gives you everything, he said.

Five years into his battle against cancer, Stebbins is unstoppable.

“It woke me up to this world, makes everything epic. I’m more aware of stuff about life. The fact that I’ve worked through [treatment], I see more clearly what matters most to me. These dirtbags are just the greatest people that I know.”

He went vegan, “a Hail Mary pass” that was caught, he said. He’s learning to stay flexible and positive with change.

He wants to be grateful for his amazing memories on the Lone Peak Tram, and not be mad about it changing, but “there is sadness to it. You can’t help it. You get a little choked up thinking about those two trams attached to that cable and bullwheel.”

During a 10-day stint in Big Sky this winter, Stebbins was crowned honorary Dirtbag Royalty— Big Sky’s unofficial monarchy of hard-charging, hard-partying skiers. Visiting dirtbags, Stebbins said, he feels like an elk returning to its herd after being around a pack of wolves.

He added, “I’ve got my knee on cancer’s neck, got it in a serious chokehold.”

Despite health challenges, he returned this winter and skied the Big Couloir. He’s convinced it would not have been possible without the family he’s found on Lone Mountain.

“I’m a dirtbag. I’m never gonna give up,” Stebbins said.

And don’t forget Earl Bang.

He says he used to be Big Sky’s unofficial record keeper. When Luke Stratford ripped 31 tram laps in a day, Bang verified the feat. When Stratford and Shane Coolidge lapped the Big Couloir 18 times in one day, Bang took note.

THE NEW LONE PEAK TRAM WILL RESUME CONSTRUCTION THIS SUMMER AND OPEN FOR WINTER 2023-24. PHOTO BY JACK REANEY

UNTIL RIDE NO. 2000, BANG WOULD CELEBRATE MILESTONES. PICTURED HERE, AFTER 500 RIDES, BANG USED MAGNETIC SIGN MATERIAL TO IMITATE THE TRAM’S GRAPHIC, AND RE-BRANDED THE TRAM “EARL PEAK” FOR A DAY. COURTESY OF EARL BANG

Still, he’s best known for keeping personal records.

Since the Lone Peak Tram converted him from a 23-year Bridger Bowl regular into a Big Sky legend—and renewed his simmering passion for skiing—Bang has kept track of every tram ride.

He’s got a spreadsheet detailing every last one of his 9,753 rides to the peak.

Nine thousand, seven hundred and fifty-three.

“You know, I always told everyone, ‘I’ll hit 10,000 by the time I’m 70,’” recalled Bang, approaching 69. “But the lift isn’t going to be there anymore… I would have easily made it with one more season.”

He’s been a 100-day-skier most years since graduating from Montana State University in the mid-1970s. He once reached 141 days.

“I wanted to see what my true potential was, and I wanted to see how that would compare to my friends hiking the ridge at Bridger Bowl,” Bang explained. Ironically, he uses Bridger’s annual calendar to keep track of each day’s tram total.

“I have all 27 years of the tram’s history.”

For Bang, 2005 was the biggest.

In January, he rode the tram 167 times; February, 182—his high score; March, 138. He walked onto the peak 576 times that winter. In 2018, he had 574. He averaged about 360 per year.

“The only reason I’m at Big Sky is to ski that tram,” Bang said. “The tram is why I’m up there.”

Another tram-oriented skier, Rob Leipheimer is not shy about his commitment to skiing: Of his 153 days—a perfect season plus employee day— “Switchy” rode the tram on 129 days this winter. Per Jungst, it’s either Stergar or Leipheimer with the most-ever Big Couloir laps.

As a Nordica-Kastle rep, Leipheimer rode the tram with ski patrol on Dec. 21, 1995, two days before it opened to the public. He’ll never forget Valentine’s

Day, 2018, when he scored 35 laps in a whiteout— though Bang didn’t verify it. He’s thankful for ski patrol, and for John Kircher.

Laurel Blessley, Mike Buotte and Doppelmayr’s engineers might disagree with Leipheimer, who said this tram could last another 25 years. But he’s ready for a new tram with new capacity, and a new chapter.

In dirtbag memory

In 1995, Bill Hickey was crowned King of the Dirtbags, whom many believe have reigned over local ski glory since 1979. Others want no part of such raw culture.

But John Kircher was fond of dirtbags, Hickey said. That’s why the former GM invited Dirtbag King and Queen, Hickey and Alisa Allgood, to join “all the dignitaries”—directors of ski patrol, ski school, lift operations, marketing—on the Lone Peak Tram’s opening ride, Dec. 23, 1995.

“We weren’t exactly welcome by everyone in the tram,” Hickey recalled. “They were all wondering why we were there.”

In the early afternoon on closing day, 2023, Hickey and his dignitaries camped uphill from the bustling line, waiting for last tram. They sat in folding thrones, sipping royal ales.

Stebbins’ parody of “The Gambler” describes waiting for the tram to open, even when operators or patrol insisted it wouldn’t.

“You always waited, no matter what,” Stebbins remembered. “And you heard that chain being pulled off, and you’re marching up the stairs…”

Stu Butterworth is the Gambler. He was King in 1996, “the best year ever,” he said. Butterworth will miss the location, watching skiers up close in the Gullies, the A-Z’s and the Big.

Harry didn’t give a last name, only “hairball” and “hair loss.” Like Butterworth, he came to Big Sky as a lifty in 1989-90 and was crowned in 2004. Harry

remembers John Kircher standing at the top of the Lone Peak Triple, inviting people down to the tram’s grand opening.

2011 Queen Kenzie Goff will miss the tram’s smallness. She remembers when Kings and Queens could cut the whole line. ‘Here you are, Queen,’ they’d say as she climbed the back stairs.

“It’s a lot to think about,” she said. “It’s the end of an era.”

Like many of these dirtbags, Dave Goff remembers hiking before the tram. In 1995, the tram opened all that terrain at once, and Dave said it was a rodeo. Colleen McNeilly is celebrating 30 years in Big Sky. The 2002 Queen isn’t very sentimental, but she’ll miss the camaraderie, the occasional tram full of locals.

Jim Holstein is called “G1 Jim” for his days operating Gondola One after moving to Big Sky in 1987. He remembers hiking up the Big Couloir.

“This tram changed everything. It put this place on the map,” Holstein said, adding his confidence that dirtbags will grow to love the new tram.

Heidi Connor, 2000 Queen, will miss “the smallness, the closeness, the community.”

Her husband Chris Connor, 1999 King, said his favorite memories are “tram islands”: when the Lone Peak Triple stopped, nobody could reach the tram—except those already there. Chris lapped the Big Couloir eight times with zero-visibility, before descending Marx with friends and patrollers as the sun emerged.

Stergar said he once scored 25 laps on tram island. Chris will miss “standing right here in the belly of the dragon.” He thanked John Kircher.

The last lap

By 2:20 p.m., a line of locals extended up the hill. Warm chunks rolled down the A-Z chutes. With the tram closing at 3:00, it was a matter of time before the line would be cut off.

At 2:40, the gate was dragged out. It sat idle and crooked for five minutes as if to say, “last call,” before being pulled into place.

As the line shrunk 15-at-a-time, cell phone cameras panned above the crowd and out the tram windows. Big Sky captured this moment on screens that nobody imagined in 1995.

The line was halved by 3:10, but still long. A cloudy haze dimmed the sun.

At 3:18, the legendary 2003 Dirtbag Queen Julie Towle entered the tram dock, preparing for her last ride. She leaned over the railing, facing the crowd.

Queen Towle cheered, and everyone roared. The spirit echoed for 30 seconds, before Towle rose 1,450 vertical feet.

Longtime visitors from Seattle, father and son Cary and Jeff Kopczynski told EBS they were in Jackson Hole in 2006 when their original 1966 tram was retired. They remembered fireworks.

As they contemplated sneaking into the dwindling tram line—EBS warned they would hear it from patient dirtbags—they asked if any fanfare was planned.

“So it’s gonna go quietly in the night,” one said.

STERGY BELIEVES THE NEW LONE PEAK TRAM WILL NOT WEAKEN TRAM CULTURE. HE BELIEVES IT WILL GROW AS THE TRAM COMPELS MORE SKIERS TO MOVE TO BIG SKY. PHOTO BY JACK REANEY

“It’s kind of sad,” said the other.

But with community in lieu of showy display, this tram did not go quietly. Like a reverse hourglass trickling uphill, the buzzing crowd at the bottom of the lift was carried to the peak, where they waited until last tram.

Legend will tell of that crowded Liberty Bowl descent.

By 3:29, the blue cabin loaded and the line approached the gate. The tram-ops’ speaker played “Mary Jane’s Last Dance,” and for the first time all day, the space felt calm.

Elton John’s “Rocket Man” followed. The orange car loaded and lifted off by 3:36.

As Stu Butterworth, the Gambler, inched toward the stairs, he told EBS he was the person who rode this tram the most. He added that sadly, that won’t be true for the next one, before shuffling through the gate.

Bill Hickey—that unwelcome ‘95 Dirtbag King on first tram—paused. He uncapped a black sharpie.

The Rolling Stones joined the farewell soundtrack, adding “You Can’t Always Get What You Want,” and Bill scribbled.

“We gotta go, Bill,” Butterworth shouted from the top of the stairs. But they didn’t.

Two dirtbags couldn’t squeeze into the last tram: one who rode it the most, and another who rode it first.

As the Stones’ seven-minute tune reached its climax, the orange tram returned.

Hickey and Butterworth climbed in, joined by resort officials and ski patrol, and the big sky burned blue to retire the Lone Peak Tram.

Notes: The tram remained open for employee skiing the next day. Big Sky Resort provided EBS with trampasses used to report parts of this series.

STU BUTTERWORTH (LEFT) AND BILL HICKEY (RIGHT) WAIT FOR THEIR LAST LAP. PHOTO BY JACK REANEY

RUSH HOUR: COMMUNITY BRACES FOR TIGER ROAD WORK

MID-MAY THROUGH OCTOBER, CONSTRUCTION WILL MAGNIFY TRAFFIC ON HIGHWAY 64

BY JACK REANEY

BIG SKY—Commuters and local drivers can expect to churn through audiobooks and podcasts this summer.

On Wednesday, April 19, the Montana Department of Transportation hosted a pair of virtual information sessions outlining summer roadwork on Montana Highway 64 (Lone Mountain Trail). Beginning in midMay and stretching through the end of September, road work will slow the traffic that has become ubiquitous in Big Sky, especially during peak seasons.

The $13.6 million TIGER (Transportation Investment Generating Economic Recovery) Grant award also funds new Skyline Bus vehicles and supports the Big Sky Transportation District’s long-term infrastructure improvements.

Bozeman civil engineering firm Sanderson Stewart designed the highway improvements, and Western Region Manager Danielle Scharf wrote a statement to EBS regarding the importance of this work.

“The long-term benefits of this project to the Big Sky Community include improved safety and better traffic flow,” Scharf wrote.

According to documents presented at the meeting, drivers should expect delays of up to 20 minutes during peak travel times. Construction will take place Monday through Friday from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. with additional work on Saturdays as necessary.

Single-lane traffic will be necessary on occasion, but crews will prioritize two-way flow. Gravel detours will be necessary in some zones, and width restrictions may be enforced.

Scharf emphasized that left turn lanes, to be constructed, are proven to reduce accidents by 28-48% and will improve traffic flow as cars don’t need to wait behind a turning vehicle.

“The traffic signal being added at the MT 64/ Little Coyote intersection will also be a significant improvement in terms of both safety and operations at that intersection,” she wrote. “The additional shareduse paths, tunnel and pedestrian bridge will also greatly improve the safety and accessibility of the area for pedestrians and bicyclists.”

Main construction projects will follow this tentative timeline, presented during the meetings:

Rough project timeline

In mid-May, construction will begin on a pedestrian bridge over the West Fork Gallatin River on Little Coyote Road, near the Big Sky Community Park. By late May, construction will begin on a pedestrian tunnel under Highway 64 at the east end of Little Coyote Road, left-turn lanes at Big Pine Drive and Andesite Road, and a shared-use pedestrian path between Big Pine Drive and Andesite Road.

By mid-July, crews will begin installing a traffic signal system at the east end of Little Coyote Road. Later in July, stretching through September, the intersection at U.S. Highway 191 will be updated.

As work wraps up for the summer in late September, crews will pave most construction areas.

Community information

Officials are encouraging local drivers to sign up for weekly text updates by texting MT64PROJECT to 41411.

Questions and comments can be emailed to Kristine Fife, senior account executive for Big Sky Public Relations, the firm handling project information. The MDT’s project hotline can also be reached at 406-2074484, during regular business hours.

Weekly construction updates will be posted on the project website.

MONTANA HIGHWAY 64 EXTENDS WEST FROM U.S. HIGHWAY 191, TOWARD LONE MOUNTAIN. OUTLAW PARTNERS PHOTO

NUMBERED BY LOCATION FROM WEST TO EAST, SUMMER WORK WILL FOCUS ON 11 MAIN PROJECTS. COURTESY OF BIG SKY PUBLIC RELATIONS

BIG SKY’S

TICKETS & INFO AT BIGSKYPBR.COM

COMMUNITY EVENTS

FRIDAY, JULY 14

BIG SKY COMMUNITY RODEO

7:00 PM - Big Sky Events Arena

COMMUNITY STREET DANCE

Featuring The Tony Marques Band

9:00 PM - Len Hill Park

TUESDAY, JULY 18

FREE COMMUNITY DAY / FAMILY ACTIVITIES

12:00 PM - Big Sky Events Arena

MUTTON BUSTIN’

4:00 PM - Big Sky Events Arena

DICK ALLGOOD COMMUNITY BINGO NIGHT

6:00 PM - Big Sky Events Arena

WEDNESDAY, JULY 19

BIG SKY PBR GOLF TOURNAMENT

9:00 AM - Black Bull Golf Course, Bozeman, MT

PROFESSIONAL BULL RIDING

THURSDAY, JULY 20

BULL RIDING NIGHT 1

6:00 PM - Big Sky Events Arena

MUSIC IN THE MOUNTAINS CONCERT

Featuring Madeline Hawthorne

8:00 PM - Len Hill Park

FRIDAY, JULY 21

BULL RIDING NIGHT 2

7:00 PM - Big Sky Events Arena

PBR AFTER PARTY

Featuring Jamie McLean Band

9:15 PM - SAV Big Sky Events Arena Stage

SATURDAY, JULY 22

BULL RIDING NIGHT 3

7:00 PM - Big Sky Events Arena

PBR AFTER PARTY

Featuring Lukas Nelson & POTR

9:15 PM - SAV Big Sky Events Arena Stage

BSRAD DISCUSSES FISCAL YEAR 2024, LONG-TERM CAPITAL IMPROVEMENTS

BY JACK REANEY

BIG SKY—At the Big Sky Resort Area District meeting on Wednesday, April 19, board members dove deep into discussions of Resort Tax finance policy, 2024 grant allocations, business facts from the BSRAD registration database, and a roadmap designed to help Big Sky take care of its infrastructure and public service needs between 2023 and 2029.

To start, Board Treasurer Steve Johnson gave an update on BSRAD’s effort to invest idle cash reserves.

Resort Tax is working with investment banking company D. A. Davidson, looking at “a variety of very, very, very conservative” strategies, Johnson said. He hopes that the board can vote to approve a plan during BSRAD’s next board meeting in May.

“I feel very confident that we’ve got a very sensible approach here, that will make a huge difference to our bottom line,” Johnson told the board.

During the board’s later discussion of fiscal year 2024 funding applications, Johnson said there’s a significant opportunity to offset BSRAD’s operating cost which includes legal and professional fees.

“It’s an unignorable opportunity,” he said. “In my mind, it’s an unignorable responsibility that we have to the community. When we’re sitting on that kind of a pile of cash, we’re supposed to make it work.”

In the most recent BSRAD board meeting, Johnson said reserves rarely fall below eight figures and currently grows at a “rather pathetic” money market rate of 1%.

Big Sky Roadmap

Executive Director Daniel Bierschwale told the board that when BSRAD’s capital improvement plan is completed by late August, it will “probably [drop] a pretty significant number on the community at large, in terms of finances that we need in order to execute large scale infrastructure investment.”

The board recently approved the updated CIP to replace a “very dated” CIP from 2011 which covered only Gallatin County’s portion of Big Sky. The new report will cover the entire resort area district—including the Madison County portion of Big Sky—and identify infrastructure improvements and “broad based community issues,” Bierschwale said.

To take action on the recommendations to be outlined in the CIP, Bierschwale introduced an “Infrastructure Investment, Funding & Voter Representation Roadmap” including a Gantt chart that outlines timing of initiatives, many of which will be voted on by the community.

Also titled “Big Sky Roadmap,” Bierschwale presented the document’s five primary goals: To invest public funds in community infrastructure; to ensure property tax equity and access to Big Sky’s government services; to align voter registration with governance over services provided in Big Sky; to leverage philanthropy for strategic investment; and to educate voters and promote civic engagement. The document is available online in the board packet on page 6.

“There’s been separate efforts, and it just felt like we needed to pull it all together on a roadmap and begin talking big picture about it,” Bierschwale summarized.

Board member Ciara Wolfe praised the document for providing objective information to the community about the path forward to 2029.

“I did read all 30 pages, and I would recommend it to all of you. If you’re going to have a voice in this, if you’re going to get engaged in this—which I hope you do and that’s awesome—please read this,” Wolfe said. “Because it has the facts, right there in front of you… It’s really important that we take the knowledge that was given to us as a community and use that to move this forward.”

Board member Kevin Germain concluded, “To accomplish this Gantt chart, even 75% of it, it’s gonna take this entire community getting behind these efforts. This [requires] coalitions. Big coalitions.”

Fiscal year 2024 requests

For fiscal year 2024, 20 sponsor organizations requested funding, totaling $11,044,000.

Bierschwale told the board to expect that Resort Tax will have roughly $9 million in funds available, but that number may change after collections are complete.

Board Chair Sarah Blechta voiced a reminder that June 5, 6, and 8 are important dates for board members, organizations pursuing funds and members of the public.

“I hope to see everybody at BASE, enjoying our beautiful facility and having a very exciting conversation about allocations,” Blechta said.

‘Staffing & housing’ continues to challenge businesses

Bierschwale shared statistics from the 1,017 businesses registered within the resort area district.

In total, 7,233 employees work within the district boundaries, 3,703 of whom live within the boundary. 4,235 workers are classified as seasonal. Blechta suggested that for next year, BSRAD asks employers to distinguish between seasonal and year-round employees when reporting workers that live in Big Sky.

Short-term rentals comprise Big Sky’s largest business sector at 32%. The district contains 1,267 short-term vacation rentals, 67% of which are located in Madison County.

Retail accounts for 16% of total businesses, professional services 9%, and food and beverage 8%.

According to a business registration poll, the biggest challenge for businesses is staffing and housing, ranked as the tallest hurdle by 31%.

Another 15% reported weather, traffic and transportation, and 14% reported the lack of third-party contractors.

Feasibility of canyon sewer district pipeline

The new Gallatin Canyon County Water and Sewer District will require roughly $14 million for a sewage pipeline beside Montana Highway 64, connecting it to the Big Sky County and Water Sewer District’s new wastewater resource recovery facility.

This regular board topic was discussed at length, focusing on the source of funding for a $400,000 feasibility study.

Much of that half-hour conversation focused on the event in which the project would be unfeasible. However, project engineer Mace Mangold assured the board that the project should pass the study.

“Everything we’ve done to date suggests feasibility. We haven’t run into any hiccups, roadblocks, anything,” Mangold said, adding that next steps include procuring groundwater discharge permit, easements and right of way.

“I can’t think of a more important community priority than making this become feasible, to deal with the situation in the canyon and the threats to the Gallatin [River],” Johnson said. “This is the biggest of big deals I can think of. We need to make this work. We need to find our way toward feasibility.”

DEQ CLASSIFIES STRETCH OF THE GALLATIN RIVER AS ‘IMPAIRED’

BY VICTORIA EAVIS MONTANA FREE PRESS

Montana officials have moved to list dozens of miles of the Gallatin River as impaired following excessive pollution-induced algal blooms over the last few years.

The Montana Department of Environmental Quality reached the determination after analyzing “years of scientific data and visual evidence,” according to a recent press release.

“It sounds bad, but it actually represents a really good thing for the river,” said Guy Alsentzer, executive director of Bozeman-based nonproft Upper Missouri Waterkeeper, noting that the river will undergo treatment once it receives an official designation.

If the proposal is approved by the federal Environmental Protection Agency, the section of the Gallatin River from the Yellowstone National Park boundary downstream to the confluence with Spanish Creek can start to be nursed back to health.

Part of the cleanup would establish a tool known as “a total maximum daily load.” The TMDL would establish a limit on how much of a pollutant the river can tolerate. From there, the state, local groups and landowners can develop a plan.

Studying and treating the river is projected to take five to six years, according to the release.

If the neon-green algal blooms are left untreated, fish populations and river-dependent industries and uses like irrigation, rafting and tourism will be at risk, Alsentzer said.

“It’s not just about the health of the fish, it’s also about the ability to use the river as a society,” he said.

The move to list the Gallatin as “impaired” comes after multiple environmental groups — including Upper Missouri Waterkeeper, the Gallatin River Task Force, Montana Trout Unlimited and others — formally petitioned the state to do so last spring.

The nuisance algal blooms are due in part to nitrogen and phosphorus in the river that originate in part from sources tied to development, such as inadequately treated wastewater, fertilizers and old septic systems, Alsentzer said.

But beyond that, the precise cause of excessive algae growth is unknown.

While blooms are often the result of heightened amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, the Gallatin River is not exceeding permitted levels. That could mean the permissible levels need to be reconsidered, the Gallatin is particularly sensitive, or the blooms are being spurred by other factors like warming temperatures, explained Lilly McLane, restoration director for the Bozeman-based nonprofit Gallatin Watershed Council.

“According to existing data we are not exceeding nitrogen and phosphorus levels that would cause algal blooms. It could be just that those water quality standards are just not sensitive enough for our climate,” McLane said.

Alsentzer maintains that increased construction in Big Sky and the surrounding area is mostly to blame.

“Maybe we need to be more conservative with development,” he added.

But that proposal taps into one of the major issues plaguing the area around the Gallatin River: a shortage of housing.

According to the Big Sky Community Housing Trust, Gallatin County has a rental vacancy rate of roughly 0%.

Upper Missouri Waterkeeper and the Montana Environmental lnformation Center successfully sued the state in 2021 over a planned subdivision in Big Sky.

The lawsuit claimed DEQ’s approval of the development permit was illegal because the state did not take into account the impact of more wastewater discharged into the Gallatin, which is already stressed by effluent.

More recently, Upper Missouri Waterkeeper filed a complaint with DEQ over a different subdivision in Big Sky, also alleging that the permit does not take into account “cumulative impact” on an already struggling river. The state has yet to respond to the filing.

Going forward, DEQ recommends that residents plant native vegetation along streambanks, schedule regular septic maintenance and limit the use of fertilizers, among other tactics. DEQ held a public meeting on the topic at the Big Sky County Water & Sewer District on May 1.

“It shouldn’t be St. Paddy’s Day in the river all summer long,” Alsentzer said.

WHILE POLLUTION-INDUCED ALGAL BLOOMS THREATEN THE RIVER, ENVIRONMENTAL GROUPS SAY THE DESIGNATION WILL AID AN EVENTUAL CLEANUP.

THE GALLATIN RIVER FLOWS THROUGH GALLATIN CANYON. ADOBE STOCK

COMMUNITY

FIVE DOZEN COLLEGES ACCEPT LONE PEAK SENIORS

BY JACK REANEY

BIG SKY—Lone Peak High School’s 28 seniors have been accepted to more than 60 colleges and universities nationwide.

Big Sky School District Superintendent Dustin Shipman said it’s a real testament to Big Sky’s teachers and community.

“I’m just thrilled that our students from a small rural school in Montana are getting accepted to some of these really great universities across the U.S.,” Shipman told EBS.

Middle and High School Principal Marlo Mitchem said she’s proud of what Lone Peak’s seniors have accomplished. She credits the school’s International Baccalaureate program, which sets Lone Peak students apart from other applicants, as well as the range of sports and extracurricular activities in which LPHS students are engaged.

“Our students have a well-rounded and balanced program at Lone Peak High School; admissions officers recognize this,” Mitchem wrote in a statement to EBS. “We are excited for all our soon-to-be graduates as they begin

the next chapter of their lives, and it has been a privilege working with them!”

Mitchem wrote that Lone Peak’s 2023 valedictorian, Jessica Bough, was accepted to Harvard, Yale, Stanford, and Vanderbilt.

This graduating class was the largest in Lone Peak’s history, with one more student than 2021’s graduating class (27).

Shipman and Mitchem shared a list of colleges which accepted LPHS students, listed alphabetically:

REGIONAL

U.S. INTERIOR SECRETARY UNVEILS $125 MILLION FOR LOCAL CLIMATE PROJECTS

BY JACOB FISCHLER DAILY MONTANAN

BOISE — The U.S. Interior Department will send $125 million from the bipartisan infrastructure law to scores of local climate resiliency and conservation projects, Interior Secretary Deb Haaland told a group of environmental reporters in late April.

Speaking at the Society of Environmental Journalists annual conference, Haaland promoted several aspects of the Interior Department’s agenda, including programs receiving funds from the $1.9 trillion bipartisan infrastructure law and Democrats’ 2022 climate and spending law, both of which President Joe Biden signed.

Haaland called the spending in those laws “once-in-a-generation funding.”

“These investments have the potential to be transformational,” she said.

The funding announced Friday will support 240 projects throughout the country, she said. A full list of projects is available online.

The money is meant for several different priorities, including cleaning up legacy pollution funding, such as former mining sites and orphaned oil and gas wells, improving resiliency to wildfires and flooding and restoring biodiversity.

Interior will also send $35 million for 39 National Fish Passage Program projects in 22 states. The program, managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, works to remove barriers such as dams and levees to create passages that allow fish to follow their natural migration patterns.

Separately, Haaland announced $140 million for Western water projects through the department’s Bureau of Reclamation. That funding also comes from the bipartisan infrastructure law.

The money will go to 84 projects in 15 states, Haaland said. Those projects are expected to conserve 77 billion gallons of water, she said.

In addition to the funding announcement, Haaland also endorsed recent administration actions related to environmental justice and public lands.

The United States faces several environmental crises related to climate change, Haaland said. The rising sea levels, worsening fires and other impacts of climate change are felt most acutely by disadvantaged “people at the margins,” Haaland said.

The Biden administration is committed to environmental justice to address those inequities, Haaland said.

Biden in late April signed an executive order creating an Office of Environmental Justice within the White House Council on Environmental Quality.

U.S. House Natural Resources Committee Chairman Bruce Westerman, an Arkansas Republican, criticized the order in a statement, saying the administration should instead focus on lowering energy costs.

“Studies, scorecards and new offices filled with bureaucrats aren’t going to do anything to improve the environment,” he said.

Haaland also praised a draft rule the Bureau of Land Management released in March to promote conservation as a core function of federal lands. The rule is meant to put conservation on an equal footing with extractive industries such as mining and energy development, she said.

And Haaland promoted her own 2021 order to remove a derogatory term for Native American women from official place names.

Permitting reform

In an earlier appearance at the April 23 conference, Bureau of Land Management Director Tracy Stone-Manning called on Congress to approve Biden’s budget request, which includes funding increases for agencies

that grant environmental permits for energy and infrastructure projects.

That additional funding would help speed approvals of renewable energy and transmission projects more effectively than reforming laws like the National Environmental Policy Act that govern how the federal government processes permits to build energy and infrastructure projects, she said.

“From where I sit, NEPA and permitting is not the biggest problem,” Stone-Manning said. “The biggest problem is having enough people to do the work.”

Haaland has often been the target of Republican calls for the administration to open more oil and gas development, while also receiving criticism from climate activists who want the administration to end fossil fuel development on public lands and waters.

Asked about that balance during the press gathering, Haaland said the department was bound by federal law that required holding oil and gas lease sales but was also prioritizing renewable energy projects.

Haaland declined to answer a question about her personal feelings on a recent decision to allow oil drilling in Alaska.

Earlier that day, Haaland and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Director Martha Williams also made an appearance in Nampa, Idaho, to announce $1 million for the Deer Flat National Wildlife Refuge under the agency’s Urban Wildlife Conservation program.

U.S. INTERIOR SECRETARY DEB HAALAND IS SEEN DURING A 2021 VISIT TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. PHOTO BY JACOB W. FRANK

PEAK SKIS SHOWROOM

THE REMARKABLE LIFE, DEATH AND TOMBSTONE OF MANHATTAN’S SAMMY WILLIAMS

BY DARRELL EHRLICK DAILY MONTANA

About the only thing that can be said for certain about Sammy Williams is that he died in Manhattan, Montana, on Dec. 10, 1908.

Even how Williams died, his name and the rest of his life’s story are conflicting, murky or uncertain.

What can be said beyond the date of Sammy’s death is that the local undertaker, George R. Safely, was shocked to learn as he prepared the affable, longtime community member for burial that Sammy had the anatomy of a woman despite being known to everyone as a man.

Hardly knowing what to do, the members of the community, many who had been helped by Sammy’s famous charity, chipped in for a headstone that still sits in Meadowview Cemetery, south of Manhattan:

“A female whose real name is unknown but who has been for many years known as Sammy Williams. Died Dec. 10, 1908. Age about 68 yrs.”

Though no one can say anything about Williams’ reasons for arriving in Montana (although escape seems the most plausible), we know that he came to Montana, was accepted and loved, remembered for doing what any wild and wooly cook would do when arriving in Gallatin Valley: HE was known for loving to dance with the ladies, enjoying a stiff drink without ever getting drunk, and for being a great cook.

When Sammy died, there was an outpouring of grief from the men who worked the Heeb Ranch in Manhattan. Williams was known for caring for those who were sick, and some reported that at their most destitute moments, they would find $5 or $10 in their pocket, the quiet charity of Sammy. And he also voted.

Charlotte Mills, the former Clerk and Recorder of Gallatin County, works as a part-time volunteer at the Gallatin Historical Museum and has helped Research Director Rachel Phillips dig for clues about Williams’ past.

In most elections, Phillips said, women were not allowed to vote, except for certain races, like school boards. In Montana, women secured the right to vote in 1914, ahead of the franchise going nationwide in 1920.

However, polling books show that Sammy voted at least three times in elections in Gallatin County before 1900. And he also had land – 320 acres, which he held at the time of his death. As county property records show, his estate was auctioned off and in a handwritten note, it said the land belonged to “Sammy H. Williams, a female.”

What the “H” stood for is not recorded, but Mills guesses it might stand for “Heeb” – the ranch for which he worked as a cook.

But it’s his first and last name that seem so intentional – for the time period, “Sam” and “Williams” were both common – a lot more so than Ingebjorge Amundsdatter Wekans Viko.

That was name given to Sammy in Norway, likely in 1833.

However, Sammy’s story is really one told in two different halves.

The Wekans immigrated to America, settling in Allamakee County in Iowa, sometime in the middle of the nineteenth century, and Ingebjorge came to

the country with her childhood friend and fiancé, Sven Norem. But Norem’s family broke off the engagement, even as Ingebjorge was sewing her wedding clothes.

According to historical documents and newspaper accounts after Sammy’s death as the community tried to figure out Sammy’s past, Norem’s family opposed the marriage because the Wekan family status was too low.

At that point, Ingebjorge disappears from the historical record.

However, in the late 1850s, census records in Eau Claire, Wisconsin, show a Billy Williams, who arrived to work as a camp cook for the area’s thriving timber industry.

Williams is recorded as a “small, delicate-looking man” with black hair, a feminine voice and a slightly hunched back.

As a cook for nearly 30 years, he acquired a lot of money, which he used to purchase buildings and lots in Eau Claire, a rarity that caught the attention of town leaders.

“Billy Cook” was noted for speaking Norwegian, English and German fluently as well as picking up the languages of the Native Americans in the area.

From there, Billy went farther west, working in North Dakota for several years before a Sammy landed in Manhattan.

It was there that Henry Heeb, a horse and cattle rancher, was in need of a ranch cook to replace his former employee who was getting older and wanted to return to his homeland of China.

Williams’ motives, his reasons, and even his backstory are vexingly elusive and simultaneously alluring, leading historians to think as much about what isn’t known as what is.

“She wanted to disappear,” Mills said, believing that was the most plausible reason for the transformation. For 18 years, Sammy cooked and worked for different ranch outfits, Phillips records, including the Heeb Ranch, the Meadowbrook Ranch, the Number I Ranch and the Manhattan Company.

“He chewed tobacco and slept in the bunkhouse with the hired hands. One source claims he was the first to get up in the morning and last to climb up to bed at night, changing his clothes in the dark while others slept,” Phillips said.

The mystery of the former identity of Williams was only learned after his death when a local Gallatin County jeweler, C.J. O’Dell, believed that he had seen Sammy years before in Eau Claire. The Eau Claire chief of police was later able to fill in the details, recalling that Billy had disappeared shortly after his connection to the Wekan family was discovered.

“I think lots more things like this happened and some are known, and others happened because of what we know about the time period: It was a low population, and it took awhile for law and government to be established, and so to have this flexibility to be who you wanted to be was not uncommon,” Phillips said to the Daily Montanan. “I haven’t come across many stories like it. But because it’s unique, it could lead to new information to other people in similar places and owned property.

“But it’s important to note he lived a different life than many others, but from all accounts it was fulfilling and he died surrounded by friends."

THE HEADSTONE AND GRAVE OF SAMMY WILLIAMS IN MEADOWVIEW CEMETERY IN MANHATTAN, MONTANA. COURTESY OF RACHEL PHILLIPS

BIG SKY WELCOMES BEAR SPRAY RENTAL SERVICE

BIG SKY’S HEY BEAR FORMS PARTNERSHIP WITH YELLOWSTONE PARK-BASED BEAR AWARE

BY JACK REANEY

This summer, Big Sky visitors will be able to rent— and learn proper use of—bear spray, which helps promote the mutual safety of humans and bears.

The service comes as part of a new partnership between Hey Bear, a bear advocacy and awareness brand in Big Sky, and Bear Aware, which sought to add Big Sky to its network of rental locations around greater Yellowstone. Bear spray rentals will reduce the cost barrier for visitors, and waste generated by single-use purchases. Rentals launch May 15.

Bear Aware was founded at Yellowstone National Park in 2011, to educate hikers about bear safety and advocate for the use of bear spray. In 2021, Bear Aware was acquired by Jackson Hole-based Teton Backcountry Rentals, which had nine years of experience renting bear spray under the same core principles of reducing cost and waste, and one overarching goal: Give people fewer reasons to “risk it” by entering bear country without vital safety gear.

Bear Aware President Patrick Collins said unfortunately, some visitors do decide to take the risk of encountering bears—some travelers even look for reasons not to bring bear spray. But by providing affordable rentals and a network of locations to pick up and drop off cans, “more and more people are aware now that they should be carrying spray,” Collins said.

Teton Backcountry Rentals has looked to expand its network of locations where outdoorspeople can pick up or drop off bear spray rentals.

Looking to implement their rental service in Big Sky, Bear Aware consulted with the Big Sky Chamber of Commerce in 2022. Chamber CEO Brad Niva told EBS that last summer, Bear Aware didn’t seem like a good fit.

But recently, one Big Sky business was doing market research—Hey Bear Brand Manager Conner Clemens noticed that Big Sky didn’t offer bear spray rentals. In a meeting with Big Sky’s Visitor Center—operated by the Chamber of Commerce—she learned about Bear Aware’s effort to add Big Sky to its network, and Niva made the connection.

“[This year], with Hey Bear on board, it seemed like a better time to roll this out,” Niva told EBS. Hey Bear provided a key advantage: making sure there’s education tied to the rental, Niva said. That condition enabled Hey Bear to manage bear spray rentals.

Hey Bear is a Big Sky-based apparel and accessories brand which advocates for safe human and bear coexistence, and consumer education. Hey Bear gives 1% of total sales to wildlife organizations such as Vital Ground, a nonprofit organization and land trust focused on purchasing private land and converting it to public land and bear habitat, from the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem into Canada.

“There’s no ‘humans versus bears,' we’re all together in this,” Clemens said.

Hey Bear is also owned by Outlaw Partners, which publishes Explore Big Sky.

“We’re all about bear safety, but mostly education,” Clemens said. “Since Big Sky is a popular tourist area, in the summer especially, we always hear, ‘I didn’t know there were bears here,’ or ‘what do I do if I run into a bear.’”

All those are normal questions that Hey Bear wants to answer quickly, Clemens said. Their website includes resources and news. Clemens hopes that as Hey Bear grows, the percent donated and the variety of organizations that benefit will also grow.

Bear Aware has similar advocacy goals, Collins explained.

“When we got linked up with Hey Bear, it seemed like an appropriate partnership because our values and goals aligned,” he said. “We’re really passionate about the ecosystem down here, and all over Yellowstone. A big part of that is grizzly bears. The more we can reduce conflict between humans and bears, the more people will advocate for grizzly bears to stick around.”

He pointed out that with every negative interaction between bears and humans, grizzly bears get a worse reputation. Bear spray is designed to protect humans but also limits harmful conflict, thus protecting grizzlies.

Collins said user adoption depends on a robust regional network. Many visitors travel one-way

through Yellowstone National Park, he said, so it’s important to have various locations where visitors can drop off their rental.

“[It] gives them one less reason to risk it. Big Sky has always felt like a logical geographic expansion point. A lot of people on their trip are flying out of Bozeman,” Collins said, adding that Big Sky also has grizzly bears and trailheads. He said for a small company like Teton Backcountry Rentals, it’s often more viable to partner with an existing company like Hey Bear.

“We’re super excited for this summer to get it started,” Clemens said, on the partnership. “I think it will be a great combination of in-person [rentals] and the vending machine.”

Hey Bear will distribute rentals in-person at its Big Sky store, and also through a vending-machine-like locker in the atrium of the Visitor Center, which is open 24/7.

Clemens explained that first-time holders of bear spray might not know how to deploy it properly— starting low and raising in a ‘Z’ formation. So, when renters come to the Hey Bear store, Clemens and her team will teach proper use. For those who rent from the automatic locker, they will need to watch an informational video before the locker dispenses each can of spray.

“I just want people to feel comfortable and safe, and know that it's really fun to get out there, and you don’t have to be scared,” she said.

Hey Bear is also sharing information with property management groups in Big Sky, with hopes that they include rental information in welcome packets for short-term rentals.

“We’ll be promoting it through the Visitor Center,” Niva said. “We answer a lot of questions about bears.”

Throughout the summer, Niva said it’s common to see bear spray cans sitting at the front door of the Visitor Center—a visitor’s last resort from throwing an unused can in the garbage.

With rentals and 24/7 drop-off, stray cans should become a rare sight in Big Sky.

FOO FIGHTERS AND LORD HURON TO HEADLINE THE 2023 WILDLANDS FESTIVAL IN

BIG SKY

EVENT TICKET SALES TO HELP RAISE FUNDS FOR THE LARGEST RIVER PRESERVATION EFFORT IN HISTORY

BIG SKY — Outlaw Partners is excited to announce the lineup for the summer’s 2023 Wildlands Festival. Rock & Roll Hall of Famers, Foo Fighters, are set to headline the Sunday, Aug. 6 event for their first performance in Big Sky and an unforgettable evening at the intimate 5,000-person Big Sky Events Arena. Lord Huron will headline the Saturday, Aug. 5 show; other confirmed musicians and talent throughout the weekend include The Breeders, Taipei Houston, James McMurtry, Regina Ferguson, and comedians Orlando Leyba and Forrest Shaw.

In a special partnership with actor Tom Skerritt, American Rivers and Gallatin River Task Force (GRTF), this year’s Wildlands Festival will be the largest fundraising event to be held in support of river conservation in U.S. history – raising funds and protecting one million river miles across the nation – with a portion of ticket proceeds benefiting American Rivers and GRTF charities.

The event will kick off with a ‘Hooked on the Gallatin’ fundraiser dinner with

Tom Skerritt and Friends, speaker panel, silent auction and comedy show on Aug. 4, followed by two nights of music Aug. 5 and 6. The event will jointly celebrate the 30th anniversary of the film “A River Runs Through It,” the 50th anniversary of American Rivers, and the important work GRTF is doing to keep the Gallatin River a thriving resource for southwest Montana.

“I am grateful to partner with Tom and his team, American Rivers and Gallatin River Task Force to host one of the biggest events in Big Sky,” said Eric Ladd, Founder and Chairman of Outlaw Partners. “We will make history this summer with one of the most iconic rock bands of all time in an intimate and beautiful setting for a very important cause.”

A staple of the global rock landscape since the 1995 release of their selftitled debut album, Foo Fighters have won 15 Grammys, including a record-setting five Best Rock Album awards. The band was inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame by Paul McCartney in 2021 and continues to sell out arenas and stadiums

around the world. With 11,166-foot Lone Mountain as the backdrop for the intimate Wildlands Festival performance, more history will be made in the 5,000-person outdoor arena.

Lord Huron’s retro influences and evocative performances, which combine western, folk rock, americana and pop melodies will be an exciting act to cap off the second night of the three-day festival. The alternative rock of The Breeders, James McMurtry’s guitar licks, Taipei Houston and Regina Ferguson will enhance this lineup.

“We are proud to be a part of this historical event with such celebrated musicians,” said Scott Bosse, Northern Rockies Director of American Rivers. “This will only enhance awareness of our ongoing efforts and larger goals to preserve our rivers nationwide.”

Earlier this year, American Rivers announced the goal of protecting one million miles of rivers by 2030. Funds raised at the Wildlands Festival will help the organization work toward that goal and other vital efforts.

“Preserving rivers has been a lifelong passion for me, and I’m honored to partner with Outlaw Partners to increase awareness of the importance of river conservation through this special Wildlands weekend,” said Tom Skerritt. Skerritt has served on the board of American Rivers for several years and continues to be an active supporter of river conservation around the country.

“The support of the Big Sky community to invest in our work and in the solutions for the Gallatin River is critical to our success," said Kristin Gardner, Chief Executive and Science Officer of the Gallatin River Task Force. "To be a part of such a monumental event for river conservation provides tremendous potential in raising awareness about our community resource.”

Ticket pre-registration for Wildlands Festival begins on May 4 at 10 a.m. and will follow a lottery system, with any remaining tickets available in a public on-sale May 11. For more updates and full ticket information, please visit wildlandsfestival.com

WILDLANDS FESTIVAL CELEBRATES OUR OPEN SPACES, CONSERVATION EFFORTS OF LOCAL NONPROFITS, AND OUR COLLECTIVE LOVE FOR LIVE MUSIC. OUTLAW PARTNERS PHOTO

WILDLANDS FESTIVAL LINEUP

FOO FIGHTERS

A staple of the global rock landscape since the 1995 release of their self-titled debut album, Foo Fighters have won 15 GRAMMYs, including a record-setting five Best Rock Album awards. The band was inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame by Paul McCartney in 2021 and continues to sell out arenas and stadiums around the world.

LORD HURON

Drawing strong notions of wanderlust, American indie band Lord Huron emerged in the early 2010s on the heels of the indie folk boom, bringing with them a mesmerizing blend of folk, rock, pop and Americana. Led by Michigan native Ben Schneider, the Los Angeles-based Lord Huron (named after the Great Lake) landed success in 2014 with the release of their second album, Strange Trails, whose closing track "The Night We Met,” is possibly their best-known song. Their most recent composition, Long Lost, was released in 2022 and marks their fourth fulllength album.

THE BREEDERS

The Breeders is the brainchild of Pixies bassist Kim Deal and Throwing Muses guitarist Tanya Donelly. Following the success of their second album, Last Splash, and its smash hit single "Cannonball," the band rose to fame during the alternative rock revolution in the early '90s. Their appeal however, has survived decades. After a decadelong hiatus, the band released All Nerve, their sixth album in 2018 proves that it’s always worth the wait for something that good.

JAMES MCMURTRY

Named by critics as a “true American poet,” James McMurtry was given his first guitar by his father at age 7. His mother taught him to play it. Today, he performs with veteran bandmates Daren Hess, Cornbread and Tim Holt, with compositions in roots rock, folk rock, alternative country and Americana. He’s composed with the likes of John Prine, Dwight Yokum and John Mellencamp in their supergroup called Buzzin’ Cousins.

TAIPEI HOUSTON

Taipei Houston is a duo from the Bay Area in Northern California. Comprised of brothers Myles and Layne Ulrich, who play drums/guitar and bass/lead vocals respectively, the band was born out of both brothers coming

back to their childhood home during the pandemic. They then moved down to Los Angeles, and once able to perform live again, started playing shows throughout Southern California. Taipei Houston viscerally tap into all of the best parts of the last 30 years of rock ‘n’ roll, layering garage rock’s frenetic sparsity with grunge’s fuzzy overdrive, and psych rock’s effortless instrumental sprawl.

REGINA FERGUSON

Regina Ferguson is an Americana artist based in Los Angeles. Living in the hills of Topanga Canyon, she has been steadily making waves in the LA music scene with her unique ability to “magically blend rock and roll with western music to create a distinct and original sound” as stated by LA Weekly. Regina has released multiple singles from her debut album, “Fortune", coming out this fall. Authenticity is at the forefront of her music as her new album was recorded on tape with a live band and mixed using unprocessed vocals, “it is the nostalgia of the old sound and the upbeat story-telling style that no music lover can resist.” Her commitment to creating authentic, timeless music carries through her live show as she masterfully fuses melodies and storytelling with unflinching determination and charm. Regina's unwavering passion for her art, backed by her dynamic band, creates a memorable experience that has earned her attention and admiration.

TOM SKERRITT

Tom Skerritt is an Emmy-Award winning TV and film actor who has appeared in over 40 films and more than 200 television episodes. He is known for his roles in A River Runs Through It, M*A*S*H, Alien, Turning Point, Top Gun, Steel Magnolias, and directed Picket Fences. In 2020 Skerritt and his wife, Julie Tokashiki, founded the digital media company Triple Squirrels Inc. and launched EVRGRN Channel, a free adsupported channel available on STIRR, iOS, Android, streaming TV devices and on demand.

ORLANDO LEYBA

Orlando Leyba is a stand-up comedian who connects with all audiences through his unique life experience and perspective, finding humor in just about anything that crosses his path. He’s been featured on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon and is celebrating his first HBO comedy special, Adorable.

FORREST SHAW

Forrest Shaw is a stand-up comedian and writer know for his work on The Jim Jefferies Show, The Conor Moore Show and Poor Decisions and has been featured on Conan and Live at Gotham. After a decade as a marine biologist, Shaw made the career change to comedy and draw the audience with a healthy dose of human, reality and relatability.

COURTESY OF THE BREEDERS

COURTESY OF JAMES MCMURTRY

COURTESY OF TAIPEI HOUSTON

COURTESY OF LORD HURON

COURTESY OF FOO FIGHTERS

SPECIAL GUEST, TOM SKERRITT; PHOTO BY STEVE KORN

COURTESY OF REGINA FERGUSON

A

CHIP OFF THE WILSON BLOCK BIG SKY’S JAMES WILSON SET FOR SECOND SEASON ON PLAYMILL STAGE

BY GUS HAMMOND EBS CONTRIBUTOR

Some Big Sky fourth graders will go to Camp Big Sky this summer, others will join Big Sky Broadway, others will become paid actors. Wait, what?

Yes, this year, James Wilson will again spend his summer performing at West Yellowstone’s Playmill Theater as a paid actor. Last year he was baby Tarzan; this year he won the coveted role of Chip, the hilarious young teacup in Beauty and the Beast.

James has grown up around the theater his entire life, watching both his big sisters in Big Sky Broadway and High School Musical, learning their songs and dance moves, and then finally getting his turn when he was old enough for Big Sky Broadway Junior. Vannessa Wilson, James’s mother, is also a born thespian. Vannessa plays a significant role both organizing and acting in the annual Community Theater shows, which explains where James got his mojo.

While his role as Chip has more lines and stage time than baby Tarzan, he isn’t worried because he no longer has to carry the weight of establishing who Tarzan is in the first scenes of the show.

“This role is a little less pressure compared to Baby Tarzan,” James said.

Plus, he’s been told his costume is very cool.

“They measured me for a very elaborate costume,” James said.

Unlike some fourth graders, James won’t have a lazy summer. His calendar is booked with 72 shows this summer. No Camp Big Sky or, sadly, Big Sky Broadway for him. But he does get some treats along the way. His favorite ice cream is just across the street from the theater readily available for after shows or rehearsals, and he loves a burger at the Slippery Otter Pub.

His number one supporter goes to his mother, Vannessa, known as Ms. Wilson at the school.

She recommends James’s early career plan to other kids who like to act.

“They should audition. It’s a big commitment, but it’s great. The Playmill works very well with kids; they’re used to having many kids on set,” Vannessa said.

Commitment is the number one thing James says he has taken away from this process. He has also become quite a natural on stage. If you are familiar with life on stage, you must be prepared for anything. He says improvisation is crucial, and if you perfect it, no one even knows when you mess up.

“No one in the audience knows my script, so sometimes I just act like what’s happening is part of the script even when it isn’t.” James said. James is breaking the boundaries of what it means to start young in the theater. If you decide to go, he’ll be easy to point out because he’s the only fourth grader on stage. Tickets will be sold on playmill.com where you can also see a schedule of performances.

BIG SKY EVENTS CALENDAR

THURSDAY MAY 4

Big Sky Shred Day

Big Sky Chamber of Commerce, 11 a.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp

BASE, 4 p.m.

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 4 p.m.

Give Big Gallatin Valley Virtual, 6 p.m.

Music in the Mountains

Release Party with Hardwood Heart

The Waypoint, 7 p.m.

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 8 p.m.

FRIDAY MAY 5

Library Storytime

BASE, 10:30 a.m.

Cinco de Mayo Fiesta

The Waypoint, 2 p.m.

Open Pottery Studio

BASE, 5 p.m.

Screening: Concerts on the Big Screen

The Waypoint, 8 p.m.

SATURDAY MAY 6

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 7:30 a.m.

Screening: The Kentucky Derby

The Waypoint, 1 p.m.

St. Joseph Mass

Big Sky Chapel, 5 p.m.

SUNDAY MAY 7

St. Joseph Mass

Big Sky Chapel, 8 a.m.

Open Pottery Studio

BASE, 4 p.m.

Big Sky Christian Fellowship Service

Big Sky Chapel, 4:30 p.m.

Screening: Throwback Movies

The Waypoint, 8 p.m.

MONDAY MAY 8

Library Storytime

BASE, 10:30 a.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp

BASE, 4 p.m.

AA Women’s Meeting

Big Sky Christian Fellowship Offices, 5:30 p.m.

Woodburning Community

Art Class

BASE, 6 p.m.

Competitive Video Games

The Waypoint, 7 p.m.

Trivia with Captain Kirk

Tips up, 9 p.m.

TUESDAY MAY 9

Big Sky Chamber of Commerce Board Meeting

Big Sky Chamber of Commerce, 8:30 a.m.

Toddler Tuesday

BASE, 10 a.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp

BASE, 4 p.m.

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 5:30 p.m.

WEDNESDAY MAY 10

Community Arts Class BASE, 6 p.m.

St. Joseph Mass

Big Sky Chapel, 12 p.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp

BASE, 4 p.m.

Resin Cast Floral Pendants

Community Art Class

BASE, 6 p.m.

Trivia Fundraiser: Are You Smarter Than A 9th Grader?

The Riverhouse BBQ & Events, 6 p.m.

Trivia Night

The Waypoint, 7 p.m.

THURSDAY MAY 11

All Levels Pottery Class

BASE, 8 a.m.

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 4 p.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp

BASE, 4 p.m.

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 8 p.m.

FRIDAY MAY 12

Runoff Cleanoff

Community Park, 9 a.m.

Library Storytime

BASE, 10:30 a.m.

Live Music

Tips Up 9:45 p.m.

Open Pottery Studio

BASE, 5 p.m.

Screening: Concerts on the Big Screen

The Waypoint, 8 p.m.

SATURDAY MAY 13

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 7:30 a.m.

St. Joseph’s Mass

Big Sky Chapel, 5 p.m.

SUNDAY MAY 14

St. Joseph’s Mass

Big Sky Chapel, 8 a.m.

All Saints in Big Sky

Big Sky Chapel, 10 a.m.

Open Pottery Studio

BASE, 4 p.m.

Big Sky Christian Fellowship Service

Big Sky Chapel, 4:30 p.m.

Screening: Throwback Movies

The Waypoint, 8 p.m.

MONDAY MAY 15

Library Storytime

BASE, 10:30 a.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp BASE, 4 p.m.

Woodburning Community

Art Class

BASE, 6 p.m.

Competitive Video Games

The Waypoint, 7 p.m.

Trivia with Captain Kirk Tips Up, 9 p.m.

TUESDAY MAY 16

Toddler Tuesday BASE, 10 a.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp BASE, 4 p.m.

AA Meeting

Big Sky Chapel, 5:30 p.m.

Screening: Builder

The Waypoint, 8 p.m.

WEDNESDAY MAY 17

St. Joseph Mass

Big Sky Chapel, 12 p.m.

Afterschool BASEcamp

BASE, 4 p.m.

Trivia Night

The Waypoint, 7 p.m.

FEATURED EVENT

Trivia Fundraiser: Are You Smarter Than A 9th Grader?

The Riverhouse BBQ & Events, 6 p.m

MAKING IT IN BIG SKY: TROVE WEST

BY MIRA BRODY

BIG SKY—Kate Tomkinson, founder and owner of Trove West, aims to support local Big Sky artisans, as well as shoppers in the area with products that cannot be found in your typical gift shop. It’s a display of the life that Montana has to offer, shared with her patrons.

For this issue’s Making it in Big Sky, Explore Big Sky sat down with Tomkinson about what it was like to fall in love with Big Sky when she first visited in 2001, to opening Trove West as a way to support the local community.

This series is part of a paid partnership with the Big Sky Chamber of Commerce. The following answers have been edited for brevity.

Explore Big Sky: I’d like to start with a little background information on you, when did you first come to Big Sky and what brought you here?

Kate Tomkinson: I first came to Big Sky in 2001 with my husband who had done some work in Big Sky in the late 80s. I immediately fell in love, as most visitors do. I was still raising kids in Boston so didn't move full time to Big Sky until 2016 when I decided to open Trove West.

EBS: Tell me about Trove West; when did it first open? What was the inspiration behind the shop?

KT: We opened in June of 2016 in the Meadow Village and have since relocated to the Town Center. Our primary driving force is to steer clear of products that can be found in a big box store. We have curated collections from over 40 artisans from Montana in order to give you the most unique and shopping experience while showcasing some of the best Montana has to offer. Many of our artisans' work can be found exclusively at Trove West!

We source locally, across the country and from each corner of the globe. We are travelers at heart and have made trips to Morocco, Tanzania, and New Zealand as well as across our country, and want to bring these treasures to beautiful Montana. But finding unique inventory right here in the great state of Montana is a focus for us! From jewelry, to

home goods, art, babies and kids apparel and gifts to cards, and vintage pieces randomly found: we have it all. And I have tried to make our price points friendly for locals, second home owners and tourists. [There’s] nothing worse than having to drive two hours to get a birthday present for a kids party.

EBS: How big is your team?

KT: Depends on the season but we currently have five part time employees and of course me and Sadie!

EBS: How do you hope guests feel when they enter your store?

KT: The goal is to make our customers feel like they've entered a treasure trove of delightful things!

EBS: What is the best part of working at Trove: KT: Being a part of this community. Giving back, meeting needs and getting to know locals and visitors!

EBS: What is some good business advice you’ve received that has stuck with you?

KT: I strive to continually change the inventory as no one likes to see the same items month after month. But equally important is to be reliable and consistent as a business!

EBS: Is there anything else that you’d like to tell the Big Sky community?

KT: Running a business in Big Sky is not for the faint of heart and it is so important that locals try and buy local as much as possible! Also Trove supports two young women in Kenya getting an education not to mention every charity in Big Sky!

KATE TOMKINSON OPENED TROVE WEST AS A WAY TO DISPLAY THE BEST OF MONTANA TO THOSE LOOKING FOR A UNIQUE GIFT FOR THEMSELF OR A LOVED ONE. PHOTO COURTESY OF KATE TOMKINSON WE HAVE CURATED COLLECTIONS FROM OVER 40 ARTISANS FROM MONTANA IN ORDER TO GIVE YOU THE MOST UNIQUE AND SHOPPING EXPERIENCE WHILE SHOWCASING SOME OF THE BEST MONTANA HAS TO OFFER.

–KATE TOMKINSON, OWNER, TROVE WEST

OPINION

THE BIG SKY WAY MAY ELECTIONS

BY DANNY BIERSCHWALE EBS CONTRIBUTOR

In our last segment we explored the basics of voting in Big Sky and the civic responsibility we each have in elections. As outlined, a variety of elections occur each year in Big Sky and to participate in most you must be registered to vote. With the May election in the rearview mirror, it’s worth taking time to demystify what voters just voted on in those elections: the school and special purpose districts. The vast majority of Big Sky-specific ballot initiatives in May are related to school and special purpose districts.

The West is lawless—right?

Despite how Hollywood personifies Western culture, we as citizens actually have a fairly long standing structure for local government in Montana, starting with The Constitution of The State of Montana.

This body of fundamental principles outlines how local governmental units can be formed and classified, merged or dissolved or otherwise changed, as well as alternative forms of government decided by a majority of voters. This includes forms of local government including but not limited to county, municipal, and special purpose district structures. An example of a special purpose district that you might’ve seen on previous ballots is the Big Sky Transportation District.

Each of the different types of government structures available to Montanans has unique power and responsibilities under the Montana Code Annotated (MCA)—which is a combination of the state constitution and all state laws, also called statutes. For example, the powers and responsibilities of the Resort Area District in Big Sky are outlined in MCA 7-6-15.

Not everyone working in those governmental bodies are legal scholars, of course, which is why Local

Government Services through Montana’s Department of Administration exists.

This public agency helps provide effective management of public funds, accountability and transparency for local governments through such support services as annual financial reports, audits and financial reviews, budgets, state agency audit findings, and other reports.

While Big Sky might not be an incorporated town in the way Bozeman or Ennis is, there are still governmental bodies, rules and other formal structures that help the community function.

The Districts of Big Sky

Eventually we will outline county and state elections, including an overview of the recent 2020 Montana District and Apportionment Commission decision, which realigned political boundaries throughout the

state. However, with the May election just “hot off the press,” we’ll stay local. Big Sky has over a dozen districts, with some in both Gallatin and Madison counties, and each having distinct powers and authority granted under MCA.

Some of these districts have taxing, bonding, and assessment authority which all fall on property tax bills helping to fund services associated with the districts. They all have distinctly unique terms for board of director/trustee elections, including a few districts with appointment rules.

It’s important to note that Big Sky has a thriving nonprofit community, and those nonprofits have their own boards. Those organizations have independent Articles of Incorporation and bylaws but are not bound by Local Government Services under the state of Montana. A great resource for learning more about Montana nonprofits is the Montana Nonprofit Association.

Although the special purpose district ballot measures and elections have passed, our next few columns will give more specific focus to the distinctions of powers, authority, and governance of these critical government services. We’ll unpack the difference between mills, assessments, and bonds and how they’re used to fund community services.

Most importantly we’ll outline how you, as a citizen of Big Sky, can get involved. These building blocks will be an important framework especially as Big Sky explores the details of another form of government outlined in MCA—municipal government.

Daniel Bierschwale is the Executive Director of the Big Sky Resort Area District (BSRAD). As a dedicated public servant, he is committed to increasing civic engagement and voter education. Many ballot issues impact government services and public funding including subsequent property tax impacts. BSRAD is the local government agency that administers Resort Tax, which offsets property taxes while also funding numerous community-wide nonprofit programs.

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Big Sandy

25,000± acre ranch near Big Sandy, MT. 18,124± acres deeded and over 8,000± acres BLM and State lease the ranch is a 650 cow calf pair and had 5,000± tillable acres plus a 30+ year outfitting history for trophy mule deer and big horn sheep hunts. $17,450,000 |

Incredible views of Lone Peak, Mountain Village and Andesite. This home has been partially renovated and would be perfect for a new owner to complete the renovation to their own specifications. Ski accessable with local knowledge.

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DISPATCHES FROM THE WILD: WYOMING’S WINTERKILL PNEUMONIA OUTBREAK COUPLED WITH SEVERE WINTER KILLS THOUSANDS OF ANTELOPE

BY BENJAMIN ALVA POLLEY EBS COLUMNIST

Thousands of pronghorn antelope make one of the longest land migrations in the continental United States each spring and fall. In just two to three days, they travel 100-150 miles, fleeing Grand Teton National Park’s high country and heading south to lower elevation wintering range along the Upper Green River Basin of southwestern Wyoming.

Pronghorns instinctually migrate from summer’s high plains birthing grounds to wind-swept pockets of tawny-brown winter grass and sagebrush hoping to seek shelter from deep winter snows. They face many obstacles along this migration, navigating highways and interstates, energy exploration and development, subdivisions, and barbwire fences. This past winter season came early and never relinquished its hold. It was fraught with meltand-freeze cycles that created multiple layers of ice, making foraging difficult for antelope with their small legs, which aren’t built to withstand harsh winters. The severe winter caused many antelope to starve, with as many as half of some herds dying from hunger.

On top of that, pneumonia outbreaks have already stricken many antelope herds. But it wasn’t just winter forcing pronghorn numbers to decline in Wyoming. Others that didn’t die fled to browner pastures in Colorado.

Antelope evolved on the North American continent over 30 million years ago beside the American cheetah, each driving the other’s evolution in determining speed to survive. A pronghorn can run 65 mph, once allowing it to escape and outrun the cheetah, but the latter is now extinct. Pronghorns are more closely related to mountain goats than antelope, although rather than rocky faces, pronghorns need wide open, undeveloped plains ranging from 3,000- to 6,000-foot elevations. High winds usually swept large parts of the Green River Basin free of snow. Biologists estimate there used to be 20 million pronghorns across the high-elevation prairies of the Great Plains, spanning from southern Canada to northern Mexico. Now their numbers, estimated at around 800,000 animals, are relegated to Arizona, northeastern California, Colorado, Montana, New Mexico, Oregon, and the western Great Plains states—including Wyoming, where half of all pronghorns live, with the largest populations being found in the Red Desert and the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem.

A few years ago, Wyoming could say it had more antelope than people, but the herd numbers have decreased recently, especially this year.

Winter came in November to Wyoming, covering the state's entire western and southern regions in snow. It continued stacking up all season. Temperatures around the Baggs area on the Colorado border had numerous freeze-thaw cycles, which made for a very hard snowpack, creating

varying layers of cement-like crust covering the forage and making it nearly impossible for mule deer and pronghorn to get to the vegetation. Many areas received 150% more than the annual average snowpacks, with 20-plus inches on top of the usual.

“Models said we were anywhere from a foot to two feet more snow than normal,” said Philip Damm, Wyoming Game and Fish biologist.

As snow accumulated throughout the region, pronghorns couldn’t find snow-free pockets. Many pronghorns died from starvation after already being weakened by pneumonia. Wyoming Game and Fish officials estimate more than 500 died because of the bacteria Mycoplasma bovis, a form of pneumonia. Some animals were so weak they died on the sides of roads, while vehicle collisions killed many others—another reason to build more wildlife bridges.

Over half of some herds died from malnutrition, even in their winter ranges. Many died near juniper trees, the only source of vegetation and sustenance sticking above winter’s white blanket.

“Winter may be over, but winter mortality typically extends into May as many animals get too far gone, even after vegetation improves and temperatures warm. They can’t recover from such poor body condition. I would expect to see that number climb,” Damm said.

But what if they can’t find food?

“Pronghorn are built to move and get out of winter. They are not built to withstand deep snow, so they migrate,” Damm said.

Snow was so deep that they walked over the tops of fences instead of going through or underneath the lowest rung of barbwire, which they usually do. Pronghorns evolved for speed and can barely jump. Many of them continued walking south over fences, ending up in Colorado.

“People in Wyoming have a saying that we lost our antelope to Colorado,” Damm said. “In the winter, they walk on hardpack snow right over the top of

fences, but when the snow melts, they can’t walk over the fences anymore and get stuck across the state line.”

Fortunately, pronghorns often have twins. They can rebuild their numbers quickly if the population can get a 95% survival rate through several light winters. It might take three-10 years to do so, and Wyoming Game and Fish are discussing the possibility of issuing 10,290 fewer antelope tags this year to help populations recover.

“Female pronghorns can produce excellent numbers of fawns,” Damm said. “In subsequent years after these difficult winters, we frequently see a pretty good jump in fawns' productivity. The direct result of winter mortality is way below the carrying capacity of the landscape with plenty of these resources for these critters to get into.”

At least mortalities caused by winter’s severity and pneumonia are natural challenges that pronghorns face in any given year. Even in a good winter, there’s usually a yearly 10-20% antelope die-off.

In contrast, habitat destruction from oil and gas development, fences and subdivisions, and deaths from vehicle collisions are not natural and are ever-growing obstacles that pronghorns face. Less habitat on the landscape leads to fewer resources and fewer antelope numbers. Fortunately, more conservation organizations are finding ways for animals to move and thrive in an ever-growing human world. Overall, Wyoming has some of the best big game numbers in the country and has been ahead of the curve in constructing wildlife bridges and underpasses, guiding wildlife safely across highways and interstates, and helping to mitigate deaths.

Benjamin Alva Polley is a place-based storyteller with stories published in Outside, Adventure Journal, Popular Science, Field & Stream, Esquire, Sierra, Audubon, Earth Island Journal, Modern Huntsman, and other publications at his website www.benjaminpolley.com/stories. He holds a master’s in Environmental Science and Natural Resource Journalism from the University of Montana.

PRONGHORN ANTELOPE NUZZLE ON THE PLAINS. ADOBE STOCK

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE SHELL

GAME

BY PAUL SWENSON EBS COLUMNIST

I remember as a kid going to the ocean and walking along the beach fascinated by all the seashells. It seemed that each one I saw I picked up, whether they were new and colorful, or old, faded, and broken. All of these shells I would bring to my Mom or Dad and they would patiently put them in a bag to take home. A lifetime later as my mom cleaned out her crawlspace she asked if I wanted all those shells back. I did not. But my passion for walking along picking up shells has not changed. Now I get them in Montana, not at a beach.

I started noticing shells as a kid in the hills around here when my family and I would go for hikes up and around Cinnamon Mountain. My parents would, as they did with shells at the beach, keep every rock I found that interested me. My Dad even packed out a couple huge rocks for me that I can barely lift as an adult. Where did they end up? In the yard, garden, mantle, or just tossed in the big pile of “Paul’s Rocks.”

Fifty years later I still have the propensity to gather shells, but now I understand their ages and the geology that placed them here.

There are a number of rock formations that contain fossils in the Big Sky region. They range from Trilobites in Cambrian limestones and shales (500 million years old), dinosaurs in the Bozeman Pass area (150 million years old), leaf and tree fossils (100 million years old), petrified wood (40 million years old), and horse, canid dog, and camel fossils (20 million years old). All one needs to know is what type of rock to look for, hard work, and some patience. But if you’re like me, it’s best to start with some easy fossil shell hunting.

The Madison Formation is a limestone that outcrops all around us. It is Mississippian in age, which means it is 360-330 million years old. At this time, paleo-Montana was on the coast of a continent that would become North America and located close to the equator. This coast was a passive environment, like what you might find now along northern and western Australia. Just as you find coral reefs in this present setting, we would have found them here in paleo-Montana 360 million years ago.

The assemblage of fossils in the Madison Formation varies where you look, but ranges from common shells (Brachiopods), sea fans (Bryozoan), sea lilies (Crinoids), several species of corals, trilobites, and fish fossils. Trilobites and fish are extremely rare to find in our locale, but in northcentral Montana there is a location called Bear Gulch where paleontologists find all kinds of different vertebrate and invertebrate fossils.

When I used to teach geology at Lone Peak High School, I would take students to these outcrops to search for the fossils identified in the photographs. For weeks leading up to these field trips, students would comment about their

lack of interest in rocks. But, once they were successful at finding seashell and coral fossils, suddenly the rocks became “alive” for a lot of my students. Some of them even found fossils that I’m still jealous about. You know who you are: P.F. and C.S. One found a trilobite (rare) and one found a unique species of coral in the shape of a soccer ball, 1.5 inches across. So cool.

The fossils from the Madison Formation can be found in so many places around the region: Top of Storm Castle, Tick Ridge, Levenski Ridge, halfway up Beehive Basin, Cinnamon Mountain, most of the Taylor Range, along the Gallatin above Taylor Fork, and a host of other places.

So now that the snow is slowly disappearing it’s time to get out and explore the region. Take in the beauty of the mountains and the vistas,

but occasionally look down at the ground. You might find some seashells that have been here for a very long time.

As a reminder, it is that time of year again: Tick Season. If you are hiking in an area that is frequented by deer, elk, or bighorn sheep, there is a high probability you will pick up a tick or two in the grass or bushes. Please check yourself and your pets. Usually you have plenty of time before they settle in for a meal. If you find one that has latched on, please consult a knowing individual for techniques for extraction, don’t just pull it out.

Paul Swenson has been living in and around the Big Sky area since 1966. He is a retired science teacher, fishing guide, Yellowstone guide and naturalist. Also an artist and photographer, Swenson focuses on the intricacies found in nature.

WOODWARD MOUNTAIN IN THE TAYLOR RANGE IS MADE PREDOMINANTLY OF MADISON LIMESTONE. PHOTO BY PAUL SWENSON

BRACHIOPODS, CRINOID STEM SECTIONS (THE CIRCLES), AND BRYOZOAN FOSSILS FROM GALLATIN CANYON. SHELL IS 1 INCH LONG. PHOTO BY PAUL SWENSON

THE AUTHOR GETTING EXCITED ABOUT FINDING FOSSIL SHELLS ABOVE THE GALLATIN RIVER. COURTESY OF PAUL SWENSON

FOSSIL SHELLS, BRACHIOPODS, FROM THE GALLATIN CANYON. SHELLS ARE ABOUT 1 INCH LONG. PHOTO BY PAUL SWENSON

EVERY DROP COUNTS IMPAIRMENT LISTING AND TMDL, WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN FOR THE GALLATIN?

BY MARNE HAYES EBS COLUMNIST

The recent proposed listing of the middle segment of the Gallatin River as impaired has gained a lot of welldeserved attention in headlines lately. It calls to question many things, not the least of which is ‘what does that even mean?’ and ‘is the Gallatin River in peril?’ The short answer is that this is not all bad news. The longer answer is that it is the first step in a solution that will take a few years to make an impact, but is the best solution for the Gallatin’s long-term health.

After repeated summers with severe, widespread algal blooms on the mainstem Gallatin caused by sufficient nutrients and climate conditions perfect for nuisance algae growth, it is the right time for a proven, scientific, and legal process to solve the problem. This impairment listing will put that plan in motion.

The request to determine the Gallatin as impaired came from a petition submitted by a collection of conservation and environmental groups—including the Gallatin River Task Force, Upper Missouri River Waterkeeper, Montana Trout Unlimited, American Rivers, and Greater Yellowstone Coalition. With recurring algae blooms and unanswered questions about the causes of these blooms, the petition—and the listing—was the best way to put science to work at finding the most effective solutions.

But let’s cover the basics first. When determining if a river should be listed as impaired, many factors and extensive available data need to be considered for review. In a monitoring contract with the Gallatin River Task Force over the last four years, the DEQ was able to collect and utilize the necessary data—including photos, algae measurements, and other levels of “macroinvertebrate benchmarks”—to make the determination for the listing as impaired.

The Montana DEQ’s proposal lists the Gallatin as impaired for excessive algal growth, even though nutrient levels in the Gallatin are less than the state standards for those nutrients. The good news is, while sounding detrimental, the impairment listing requires the development of a total maximum daily load (TMDL) and a plan that will provide a roadmap to improved water quality on the Gallatin for future generations. A TMDL is the river’s threshold for a controllable pollutant before it impacts water quality; in this case nuisance algae growth, and other factors that affect algae growth. In other words, what is the threshold of the Gallatin to remain healthy at the influx of ongoing conditions and excessive nutrients that are creating the perfect storm for recurrent widespread algal blooms.

Over the next few years, the DEQ will put significant resources into monitoring these pollutants, not only to understand what the Gallatin’s thresholds are, but also to identify sources of pollution to the river. From there, the community, and most notably the Task Force, has the information necessary to create a

collaborative Watershed Restoration Plan that will reduce algae blooms in the Gallatin. While changes and progress won’t be seen overnight, or even by the summer’s end or next year, the hope is that the long-game solution ahead will put the Gallatin back on a trajectory for fewer algae blooms.

While the DEQ’s development of a TMDL is an important next step, there are methods and practices we can implement while this is taking place that will contribute to lowering the availability of excessive nutrients in the river currently contributing to favorable conditions for late summer algae blooms. Limiting fertilizers, maintaining septic systems, supporting regenerative restoration projects throughout the watershed, and other tactics will all have a cumulative and positive impact on the health of the Gallatin River.

If the proposal to list the Gallatin as impaired is approved by the Environmental Protection Agency, the section of the river from the Yellowstone National Park boundary to the confluence with Spanish Creek (the middle segment) has promising potential to return to the healthy algae levels that we all want to see. Listing the waterway as “impaired” is a critical step to address the known pollution problems, restore the Gallatin, and ensure the sustainability of both the resource and our community. We all win with a clean Gallatin River.

Marne Hayes is the communications manager for the Gallatin River Task Force.

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A LA CARTE ROAD TRIP

BY RACHEL HERGETT EBS COLUMNIST

Growing up in southwest Montana, I measured distance by travel time on the roads around us. As days grow longer and the air warms, our mountain roads clear. They shed most of their ice and snow and my mind starts to turn to the roads ahead. Where will they lead me this summer? What adventures may I find? And, because this is a food column, what will I eat?

Road trips take many forms. In Montana, crossing the state could take all day in a car and some places are so spread out that going to the next town over could be a road trip. A day of driving to the larger Western cities like Salt Lake City, Seattle, Denver is a normal activity.

Others do it as a job. In my years as an arts writer, I have often heard tales of life on the road. Musicians and performers on one tour or another tend to eat like, well, crap. It’s a diet of fast food, of burgers and pizzas. I imagine it is even worse for those who drive for a living. Imagine trying to maneuver one of those semi trailers to a place that isn’t a rest area. I don’t know that I could survive the long haul. I need a vegetable or three.

That isn’t to say the junk food doesn’t or shouldn’t have a place in our travel culture. If you’re somewhere with an In-N-Out and don’t go animal style on an animal style double double, you’re truly missing out. But the first burger joint of my nostalgia is Zip’s Drive In. If we left Bozeman in the morning, heading to visit family in the Seattle area, we would hit Ritzville, Washington, somewhere around lunch. I don’t know what else is in that little town, but the restaurant was a refuge of leg-stretching, french fries and a side of tartar sauce. For pickle lovers like me, there is nothing better into which one might dip a fry. Fight me.

On other trips west, I may or may not have been unsecured atop a mountain of blankets and luggage in the back of a covered truck bed, feeding my aunt and uncle chocolate chip cookies and kanpyo sushi rolls through the window.

Driving and food go hand-in-hand. We get hungry, or bored and turn to tasty snacks. A road trip food must be easy to eat, especially if you’re the driver. You don’t want to deal with wrappers or peels… or crumbs. While I won’t turn down homemade chocolate chip cookies, I tend a little healthier on road trips. Why add a stomach rock to being scrunched in a car for hours? So I tend to pack veggies and dip (especially Hope Foods Thai coconut curry hummus), grapes and jerky.

I have been given guff for my habit of packing grapes on road trips (you know who you are), but maintain they are both delicious mouth explosions and the ultimate fruit for ease of eating. I prefer the crisp, green variety—seedless, of course. Take them off the stem. Wash them, freeze them if you want, and throw them in a bag or a jar. No muss, no fuss, and no peels to deal with later.

Jerky, however, takes the crown in the battle of road trip foods. Let’s shout out Madison Foods in Ennis here. I’m salivating thinking of their jerky. I love how the in-house smokehouse infuses the meat after smoking, giving it a juicy tenderness so you don’t feel you may break a tooth tearing off a chunk. Though Mike Worley, the man in charge of turning raw meat into magic, tells me they no longer wholesale their products, they are still available at Madison Foods. His go-to is the house style jerky, which he likes “because it’s got a bite and also a sweet end.” But don’t sleep on the bourbon jerky, infused with Big Horn Bourbon from Willie’s Distillery. May the road take you through Ennis.

Happy travels!

Rachel Hergett is a foodie and cook from Montana. She is arts editor emeritus at the Bozeman Daily Chronicle and has written for publications such as Food Network Magazine and Montana Quarterly. Rachel is also the host of the Magic Monday Show on KGLT-FM and teaches at Montana State University.

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ROAD TRIP

FAIRMONT HOT SPRINGS AND ANACONDA

BY LESLIE KILGORE EBS CONTRIBUTOR

The Anaconda Copper Company smelter stack, completed in 1919, is one of the tallest free-standing brick structures in the world at 585 feet. In comparison, the Washington Monument is 555 feet tall. It stands less than three hours from Big Sky towering over the former mining town of Anaconda. I’ve visited the area often and at different times of year; seeing the large brick structure surrounded by black smelt is always a profound reminder for what this area represents to Montana’s past.

My recent trip was a wintery one, but Fairmont Hot Springs and Anaconda is a worthy destination during any season and spring is my favorite time of year to go.

I stay at Fairmont Hot Springs, since during COVID the resort’s hot springs were closed to the public permanently and are now only open to guests of the hotel. Soaking in the two large pools (one inside and one outside) and the enormous outdoor hot tub is why we stay at the resort. For both kids and adults, the three-story enclosed water slide alone makes the trip to Fairmont worthy.

This trip, my daughter and I waited until sunset when the families with young kids dissipated and neon lights illuminate inside the slide at night. I can honestly say, there’s really nothing like shooting out of a large water slide lit up like a dance club into a large hot spring under the Montana sky. Especially after a cocktail served by the waitstaff poolside.

With two restaurants that serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, an 18-hole golf course, frisbee golf, tennis courts, farm animals, lawn games and more, Fairmont Hot Springs is certainly a destination on its own, especially in the warmer months. But the town of Anaconda has plenty to see and do as well.

I won’t even drive past Anaconda without planning my trip around a stop at the restaurant O’bella. As an East Coaster who grew up at family meals in the North End, Boston’s Italian neighborhood, I’m hard pressed to find authentic Italian food in Montana. Which is why I don’t miss an opportunity to dine and drink Italian wine at this special little spot on Main Street.

Their food is made-from-scratch and with love, which is apparent as you witness the staff buzzing around the intimate dining room checking in on guests to ensure they are happy and well-fed. Just as every Italian restaurant should be, it’s dimly lit, Sinatra plays loudly throughout, and a chalkboard listing the house-made cannoli flavors of the evening greets you at the door behind the host— we tried every flavor while sipping espresso as we paid our bill, which was less than $100 for an appetizer, two entrees, dessert, and wine.

After feeling entirely too full, we rallied back to Fairmont for a late-night soak. Open until 10 p.m., I always try to use the pools and hot tub before bed, since at night the vibe is a lot quieter and the soakers a lot older than during the day.

In the morning, we returned to Anaconda for bloody mary’s and brunch at Donavan’s, which has the most amazing fluffy biscuits that pair well with pretty much anything. A local’s spot, their breakfasts are big enough for two to share and the coffee is strong.

After brunch, we made a stop at Smelter City Brewing, a staple on Anaconda’s Main Street with a good local vibe. Located in the town’s historic electric building, they host local musicians and brew quality beer. I’m not much of a beer connoisseur, but my friend did buy a growler to take home after trying one of their IPAs.

What I lack in my knowledge of good microbrews, I make up for in my experience at perusing flea markets. The Black Dog Antiques and Interiors is one of my favorite places in all of Montana.

Full of character, outside you’ll see an antique truck and plenty of colorful vintage skis against yet another historic brick building that was vacant for many years and is now refurbished. The indoor antique mall hosts more than 30 dealers who sell vintage clothing, collectibles, western jewelry, home decor and more. On this trip, we saw unique railroad and mining items, antique snowshoes, furniture, antlers, and other Western memorabilia. I purchased some turquoise jewelry, which cost half of what I’ve purchased in Bozeman.

After our flea market visit and before heading home, we stopped at Peppermint Paddy’s. While they are known for their pork chop sandwich, the owner made me one of the best BLTs I’ve had in Montana—toasted wheat bread, an abundance of chopped bacon, fresh green lettuce and tomato, and just the right amount of mayo. Perfection.

We sat amongst the locals with our late lunch and coffees while we heard chatter about rising real estate costs, local rents, and “out-of-towners” buying homes for short-term vacation rentals. It sounded like the conversations that circle around Big Sky.

While locals, and businesses tailoring to locals, still outnumber tourists in Anaconda, it seems to be yet another town experiencing major change and growth. On the streets off Main Street, peppered with small bungalows that reflect the area’s former mining industry, you’ll see several homes refurbished and remodeled amongst those that look more tired. Every time I visit, there seems to be more remodeled homes popping up around town.

However, the sense of old Montana and the history that oozes out of this part of the state still shines through when visiting, as does the pride from its residents. I just hope the people who are keeping that history and pride alive can continue to do so as the area grows. But for now, a trip to Fairmont Hot Springs and this former mining town filled with lots of character is still a gem in the Treasure State.

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WRITERS ON THE RANGE LAND EXCHANGES TILT TOWARD THE RICH

BY ERICA ROSENBERG WRITERS ON THE RANGE

In 2017, the public lost 1,470 acres of wilderness-quality l and at the base of Mount Sopris near Aspen, Colorado.

For decades, people had hiked and hunted on the Sopris land, yet the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) handed it over to Leslie Wexner, former CEO of Victoria’s Secret and other corporations, at his request. The so-called “equivalent terrain” he offered in return was no match for access to trails at the base of the 13,000-foot mountain.

This ill-considered trade reveals how land management agencies pander to wealthy interests, do not properly value public land, and restrict opportunities for public involvement. It’s an ongoing scandal in Colorado that receives little attention.

Since 2000, the BLM and the Forest Service have proposed over 150 land exchanges in Colorado. Last year alone, the agencies proposed to trade more than 4,500 acres of public lands, worth over $9 million, in three major Colorado land exchanges.

Land to be traded away includes precious riverfront, lands recommended for Wild and Scenic River designation, and hundreds of acres of prime hunting and recreation territory.

Public land exchanges can be a useful tool. Federal agencies use them to consolidate land holdings, improve public access, reduce management costs and protect watersheds. By law, the trades must serve the public interest, and the land exchanged must be of

equal value. The agencies are supposed to analyze, disclose and mitigate the impacts of relinquishing public lands in exchanges, and also solicit public input on whether a trade makes sense.

But here in Colorado—and elsewhere around the country—this management tool has been usurped by powerful players who aim to turn valuable public lands into private playgrounds.

Often, the deals proposed sound good in terms of acreage. In the Valle Seco Exchange, for example, the San Juan National Forest in southern Colorado would trade 380 acres for 880 acres of prime game-wintering habitat. But the trade mostly benefits the landowners pushing the exchange.

Public lands for trade in the Valle Seco Exchange include river access, corridors considered for Wild and Scenic River designation, wetlands, sensitive species habitat, and significant cultural sites.

Alarmingly, the Valle Seco exchange also includes more than 175 acres of a Colorado Roadless Area, a designation meant to block development of high-quality land. The exchange would allow a neighboring landowner to consolidate those 380 acres with his 3,000plus acre ranch, opening the door to development.

The Valle Seco Exchange follows a longstanding pattern. “Exchange facilitators,” people familiar with the land-acquisition wish lists of agencies, help private landowners buy lands the agencies want. The landowners then threaten to manage and develop those lands in ways that undermine their integrity. The Valle Seco proponents did this by closing formerly open gates and threatening to fence the 880 acres for a domestic elk farm and hunting lodge. This is blackmail on the range.

While catering to these private interests, the agencies suppress public scrutiny by refusing to share land appraisals and other documents with the public until after the public process has closed—or too late in the process to make it meaningful.

The proponents and their consultants have ready access to these documents, yet the public, which owns the land, does not. In Valle Seco, appraisals were completed in August 2020, but they weren’t released to the public until December 2021, just a few weeks before the scheduled decision date for the exchange. Advocates managed to pry the appraisals out of the agency only after submitting multiple Freedom of Information Act requests and taking legal action.

In another deal, the Blue Valley Exchange, the BLM also withheld drafts of the management agreements until just before releasing the final decision. This is hardly an open and fair public process.

The federal government presents what are, in effect, done deals. Development plans and appraisals are undisclosed and comment periods hindered. By prioritizing the proponents’ desires over public interests and process, the land management agencies abdicate their responsibilities.

The result is that too many land trades are nothing less than a betrayal of the public trust as the public loses access to its land as well as the land itself.

Erica Rosenberg is a contributor to Writers on the Range, writersontherange.org, an independent nonprofit that works to spur lively conversation about Western issues. She is on the board of Colorado Wild Public Lands, a nonprofit in the town of Basalt that monitors land exchanges around the state.

BIG SKY BEATS

BIG SKY BEATS: GRILLING SEASON

BY JASON BACAJ

Winter is finally over. It was an exceptional winter all around but it’s May and our thoughts are turning to summer activities: hiking, fishing, biking, rafting, kayaking and, of course, summer skiing for those who are #notoverit. Perhaps the perfect complement to all those activities is firing up the grill with all those friends and cooking up delicious foods. In that spirit, EBS compiled a list of songs that’ll keep the vibes right while soaking up some sun and the truly fantastic smell of grilling food.

1. “Champagne Corolla” By Justin Townes Earle

2. “Shakedown” by Valerie June

3. “Love All Night (Work All Day)” by Yola

4. “Shotgun Willie” by Margo Price

5. “Dancing in the Moonlight” by King Harvest

6. “Living the Dream” by Sturgill Simpson

7. “Kodachrome” by Paul Simon

8. “Feelin’ Alright” by Joe Cocker

9. “Go Your Own Way” by Fleetwood Mac

10. “For Once In My Life” by Stevie Wonder