Cooking & Cocktails A Night in Bologna
WITH PATRICK SCULLY, YOUR NATIONAL MANAGER OF FOOD, BEVERAGE & CULINARY EXPERIENCE
A Night in Bologna
Italian food is incredibly diverse, with unique flavors and dishes that vary across the country from north to south and east to west. This diversity is deeply influenced by Italy’s geography, as each region produces distinct culinary traditions shaped by its local ingredients and culture. Italians take pride in their cuisine and strive to preserve the origins of their dishes, as each one tells a story about their heritage, their region, and their community.
Today, as we focus on the cuisine of Bologna, let’s take a closer look at the area’s rich culinary history and what makes its food so special. Bologna is the capital and largest city of the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy. Bologna is situated on the edge of the Po Plain at the food of the Apennine Mountains, at the
meeting of the Reno and Savena river valleys. Bologna is renowned for its traditional home style cooking with rich, hearty flavors.
FAMOUS FLAVORS
The most famous foods to come out of that area are:
» Homemade Egg Pastas (tortellini, tagliatelle)
» Hearty pasta sauces like Ragù
» Lasagna Verde
» Tortellini in Brodo
» Tortelloni
» Tigelli
» Cured meats likes Mortadella and Prosciutto de Parma
» Parmigiano Reggiano
» Balsamico di Modena
“Bologna is renowned for its traditional home style cooking with rich, hearty flavors.”
Ragù alla Bolognese
What is Ragù alla Bolognese? Ragù in Italian cooking is a sauce typically made with ground meats, onions, tomato puree, and red wine that is served with pasta.
The origins of the Bolognese ragù are related to those of the French ragout, a stew of ingredients reduced to small pieces, which became popular in the 18th century. The earliest documented recipe for a ragù served with pasta dates back to the end of the 18th century in Imola, near Bologna, from Alberto Alvisi, cook of the local Cardinal.
In 1891, Artusi Pellegrino published a recipe for a ragù characterized as bolognese in his cookbook. Artusi’s recipe, which he called maccheroni alla bolognese, is thought to derive from the mid-19th century, when he spent considerable time in Bologna and maccheroni being a generic term for pasta, both dried and fresh. The recipe at that time called for predominantly lean veal filet along with pancetta, butter, onion, and carrot. The meats and vegetables were to be finely minced, cooked with butter until the meats browned, then covered and cooked with broth. No tomatoes were included. Artusi commented that the taste could be made even more pleasant by adding small pieces of dried mushroom, a few slices of truffle or chicken liver cooked with the meat and diced. As a final touch, he also suggested adding half a glass of cream to the sauce when it was completely done to make it taste even smoother. Artusi also recommended serving this sauce with a medium sized pasta made from durum wheat.
Since Artusi recorded and subsequently published his recipe, what is now Ragù alla Bolognese has evolved with the cuisine of the region. Most notable is the preferred choice of pasta, which today is widely recognized as fresh tagliatelle. Another reflection of the evolution of the cuisine since its inception is the addition of tomato, either as a puree or as a concentrated paste, to the common mix of ingredients. Similarly, both wine and milk appear today in the list of ingredients in many of the contemporary recipes, and beef has mostly displaced veal as the dominant meat.
In 1982, the Italian Academy of Cuisine, an organization dedicated to preserving the culinary heritage of Italy, recorded and deposited a recipe for “classic Bolognese ragù” with the Bologna Chamber of Commerce. The academy’s recipe confines the ingredients to beef cut from the plate section, fresh unsmoked pancetta, onions, carrot, celery, tomato passata or tomato purée, meat broth, dry white wine, milk, salt, and pepper.
Today, Bolognese is traditionally made with beef or, in some cases, a combination of pork and beef. In addition to these ground meats, you will also need dry white or red wine, tomato paste, passata, and sofrito/ mirepoix (mixture of celery, onions, and carrots). There are always some variations to the traditional recipe, as some people add milk halfway through the cooking process or cream at the end, rehydrated porcini mushrooms with the liquid, and even nutmeg or cinnamon, and although not obligatory Ragù alla Bolognese is usually served with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
What the rest of the world knows as spaghetti Bolognese is virtually nonexistent in Italy, especially in Bologna. Traditionally, Ragù alla Bolognese is served either with tagliatelle or enjoyed in lasagna alla Bolognese. However, it also goes well with other types of fresh egg pasta, such as pappardelle, fettuccine, or homemade farfalle.
Ragù Alla Bolognese
Prep Time: 45 Minutes
Cook Time: 4 Hours
Yield: 6 Servings
INGREDIENTS
» 400g (14.1 oz) coarsely ground beef (shoulder, chuck, brisket, plate, or flank)
» 150g (6 oz) fresh pork pancetta, flat or rolled, ground or finely chopped
» ½ onion, peeled, 2 oz (60g), finely chopped
» 1 medium carrot, peeled, about 2 oz (60g), finely chopped
» 1 celery stalk, trimmed, about 2 oz (60g), finely chopped
» 120 ml (½ cup) (1 glass) of red or white wine
» 200g (7 oz) strained tomatoes (passata)
» 1 tablespoon tomato paste (doubleconcentrated)
» 120 ml (½ cup) (1 glass) of whole milk (optional)
» Light meat or vegetable broth (or stock cubes)
» 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
» Salt and pepper, to taste
INSTRUCTIONS
» Add olive oil and the ground or finely chopped pancetta to a heavy, nonstick casserole pot (aluminum, cast-iron, and terracotta pots are also acceptable).
» Cook over medium heat until the pancetta has melted.
» Once melted, set the heat to low, and add the finely chopped root vegetables. Cook, stirring constantly, until softened.
» Up the heat to medium, add the meat, and cook until sizzling and browned, about 10 minutes. Make sure to break up all the lumps during those 10 minutes.
» Pour in the wine and cook until it evaporates, then add the tomato paste and the strained tomatoes and mix.
» Pour in a cup (120 ml) of boiling stock (or water) and simmer for 2-3 hours, depending on preference and the type of meat. While simmering, add more as needed.
» Halfway through cooking, pour in the milk and make sure it completely evaporates by the time the ragù is done.
» The finished ragù should be thick, glossy, and a rich maroon color.
VARIATIONS
Although the above recipe is the one the Academy has penned down, it is not the only variant it deems “traditional.” For example, it allows replacing beef with a mix of beef and pork, with beef being about 60% of the mix. Also, meat minced with a knife is also allowed, as is using cured pancetta instead of fresh and seasoning the ragù with nutmeg. Furthermore, it’s okay to enrich the ragù with things like porcini mushrooms, chicken livers, hearts, and gizzards, peeled and crumbled sausage, and, surprisingly, blanched peas.
If you’d like to modify the recipe, while staying in line with tradition, here are some ingredients to avoid. Refrain from using veal or exclusively pork and skip smoked pancetta. Avoid thickening the ragù with flour or seasoning it with herbs and spices like garlic, rosemary, or parsley - stick to, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Lastly, never substitute brandy for wine.
Ricotta Cheese
What is Ricotta Cheese? Ricotta is an Italian whey cheese made from sheep, cow, goat or water buffalo milk whey left over from the production of other cheeses.
With that said, before whey was used to make ricotta, it was made from whole milk by farmers that used milk boilers to bring whole milk to temp without having them boil over. At the correct temperature, they would add fresh acid to the milk and stir, which would create the curds, and they would separate from the whey. After time they would remove the curds and let them drain. To achieve a softer ricotta, they would reduce the time the curds spend in the cheesecloth. For a more compact Ricotta, they would allow the curds to sit longer, resulting in a drier, denser texture.
The production of rennet-coagulated cheese overtook the production of fresh whole-milk cheeses during the first millennium BC. Unlike the fresh acid-coagulated cheese, aged rennet-coagulated cheese could be preserved for much longer.
The increased production of rennet-coagulated cheese led to a large supply of sweet whey as a byproduct. Cheesemakers then started using a new recipe, which used a mixture of whey and milk to make the traditional
ricotta as it is known today.
The ancient Romans made ricotta, but writers on agriculture do not mention it. They described the production of rennet-coagulated cheese, but did not write about milk boilers or acid-coagulated cheese. A likely reason is that ricotta was not profitable because it’s very short shelf life did not allow distribution to urban markets. Ricotta was most likely consumed by the herders who made it. Even so, evidence from paintings and literature indicates that ricotta was known and likely eaten by Roman aristocrats, as well
COMMON TYPES OF RICOTTA
Some common types of Ricotta are:
» Ricotta di bufula (fresh ricotta made from the whey left over from mozzarella di bufula)
» Ricotta Salata (aged, firm and salty)
» Ricotta Infornata (aged, and baked)
» Ricotta Affumincata (aged, and smoked)
» Ricotta Forte (re-aged ricotta for up to one year, salted, pungent, brown soft cheese)
Ricotta is used to make everything from sweet to savory dishes. I prefer the ones that are made fresh that last a few days or even just the evening, because it is SO DELICOUS and easy to make.
Ricotta Cheese
Prep Time: 10 Minutes
Cook Time: 25 Minutes
Yield: 4 Servings
INGREDIENTS
» 8 cups whole milk (2 liters)
» ½ teaspoon salt
» 3 tablespoons lemon juice or white vinegar freshly squeezed
INSTRUCTIONS
» Line a colander with a large piece of lightly dampened cheesecloth that has been folded over itself at least 3-4 times. Place the colander over a bowl. Make sure to use non-reactive materials. (Alternatively, you can use a recycled ricotta basket placed on a bowl).
» In a large heavy based saucepan, over medium heat, heat the milk.
» Add the salt and stir occasionally with a wooden spoon. Make sure the milk does not scorch.
» If you have a thermometer, heat to 185° F. If you do not have a thermometer, you need to reach a stage where there is a lot of steam, little bubbles close to the edge of the pot and the formation of a slight film. It should take about 20 minutes to get to this stage.
» Lower the heat to low.
» Add the lemon juice (or vinegar).
» Slowly agitate the mixture for 2 minutes. You will notice the curds (the ricotta) separating from the whey (yellowish liquid).
» Remove from heat.
» Cover pot and let stand for about 20 minutes.
» Carefully “ladle” your ricotta into the cheesecloth lined colander or your basket. The consistency of the final product will depend on the amount of time you leave the ricotta to drain. For a creamy ricotta, let it sit for 3-5 minutes; for a dryer ricotta, it can sit up to 20 minutes.
» Use immediately. Cover and refrigerate any leftovers.
TIPS
» Do not use metal spoons when making ricotta or any cheese as metal spoons can react with the acids in cheese, leaving a slightly metallic taste in your dish, while wood does not.
» Do not use ultra pasteurized milk, rather use pasteurized milk as ultra pasteurized will not create proper curds.
» Do not use Meyer lemons when making ricotta as this variety of lemons does not have the same level as acidity as regular lemons.
» You can freeze ricotta.
» Use fresh ricotta immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3-5 days.
» You can replace fresh lemon juice with white vinegar.
» Reduce draining time for a creamier consistency.
Gelato
Gelato, meaning “frozen” in Italian, is the common word for all types of ice cream in Italy. Artisanal gelato in Italy generally contains 6-9% butterfat, which is lower than other styles of frozen dessert. Gelato typically contains 35% air (substantially less than American-style ice cream) and more flavoring than other types of frozen desserts, giving it an intense flavor with creamy, smooth texture, density and richness that distinguishes it from other ice creams. Around 1565, Bernardo Buontalenti, an innovator in ice conservation, made a sorbet with ice, salt, lemon, wine, milk, sugar, egg, honey, with orange and bergamot flavoring. Buontalenti is credited with inventing gelato alla crema, whipped cream or egg
cream gelato, the precursor to modern Florentine gelato. In 1686, Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, a Sicilian, brought his grandfather Francesco’s gelatomaking machine to Paris, opened Café Procope and introduced the frozen dessert. Procopio obtained French citizenship, and a royal license from Louis XIV, making him the sole producer of the frozen dessert in the kingdom. Being one of the first to sell gelato directly to the public (prior to then it was reserved only for nobles), and making it known in the rest of Europe, Procopio is sometimes referred to as “the father of Italian gelato.” In 1945, in Bologna, Bruto Carpigiani began selling gelato-making equipment, and created Motogelatiera, the first automated gelato machine.
LEMON GELATO
Prep Time: 45 Minutes | Yield: 6 Servings
INGREDIENTS
» ½ cup lemon juice from fresh lemons (about 3 lemons)
» ¾ cup granulated sugar
» 1 cup whole milk
» 1 cup heavy whipping cream
INSTRUCTIONS WITH AN ICE CREAM MAKER
» Wash and squeeze the lemons. You will need about 125 ml (½ cup) of juice. Of course, it depends on the size of the lemons. About three lemons should be fine.
» Strain the juice through a strainer to remove any seeds or peels.
» Pour the strained juice into a larger container. Add the sugar to the lemon juice and stir.
» Add the heavy cream and finally the whole milk. Mix thoroughly with a spoon until the sugar is completely dissolved. (Ensure the milk and cream are kept cold before adding them to the lemon and sugar mixture.)
» Pour the mixture into the basket of the ice cream maker, close it and start. After about 40 minutes (time may vary depending on the model of the machine) your lemon gelato is ready!
Wine to Pair with Bolognese
When pairing wine with Bolognese, look for medium to full body Sangiovese, such as a Chianti, Vino Nobile de Montalcino or a Brunello de Montalcino. These wines with high tannin and acidity have the ability to produce notes with characters such as cherry, dark stone fruit, spices, tobacco, and dry herbs. Another grape varietal that works well is Nebbiolo. Choose a Barolo or Barbaresco as the Nebbiolo grapes beautiful aromatics and high acid and tannin also pair beautifully with Bolognese. If going for a Barolo, ensure you look for bottles with several years of age on them as these wines need time in the barrel and bottle to really show their beauty.