The Simplicity of Gnocchi by Overflow

Cooking & Cocktail Series THE SIMPLICITY OF GNOCCHI

WITH PATRICK SCULLY, YOUR NATIONAL MANAGER OF FOOD, BEVERAGE & CULINARY EXPERIENCE

| HISTORY |

The Simplicity of Gnocchi G

nocchi (“nyow · kee”) is a varied family of pasta in Italian cuisine. They consist of small lumps of dough typically made with a simple combination of wheat flour, eggs, potatoes, and sometimes salt. The dish offers various adaptions, incorporating flavor enhancers like semolina flour, cheese, breadcrumbs, cornmeal, herbs, vegetables, and more.

Common accompaniments of gnocchi include brown butter with sage, pesto, pomodoro, as well as other various sauces. Gnocchi may be homemade, made by specialty stores, or produced industrially and distributed refrigerated, dried, or frozen. Most gnocchi are boiled in water and then served with a sauce.

Base ingredients may be substituted with alternatives such as sweet potatoes for potatoes or rice flour for wheat flour. Such variations are often considered to be non-traditional, but are delicious.

The word gnocchi may be derived from the Italian word nocchio, signifying a knot in wood, or from nocca, meaning knuckle. It has been a traditional type of Italian pasta dating back to Roman times. The Roman Legions introduced it during the expansion of the empire into the European countries.

HISTORY

Gnocchi is commonly prepared in salted boiling water and then dressed in various sauces. They are usually eaten as a first course (primo piatto) as an alternative to soups or pasta, but they can also be served as a side dish (contorno) on some main courses or even the main course itself.

However, in Lombardy during the 15th century, they made a form of gnocchi called zanzarelli crafted from a blend of bread, milk, cheese and ground almonds. As time progressed, some versions of gnocchi were crafted 2

from a dough comprising of flour and breadcrumbs mixed with water and pushed through the holes of a cheese grater.

potatoes were met with skepticism, distaste and fear in many parts of Europe. In fact, they were primarily utilized as animal fodder, provided for prisoners of war, and served as a sustenance for the starving population during this period.

In the 17th century, the almonds in zanzarelli were replaced by flour and the water by eggs. These gnocchi were called malfatti, which means “badly made” and is still the name that Tuscans use for their flour, spinach and ricotta dumplings also called gnudi.

An ancient Roman recipe features a semolina-like dough mixed with eggs; contemporary variations include the baked gnocchi alla Romana and Sardinian Malloreddus, both of which are prepared without eggs.

Interestingly, Italian potato gnocchi only trace their origins to the early 18th century, a period long after potatoes were introduced to Europe from South America by Spanish explorers and integrated into Italian kitchens. Throughout the 16th and 17th century,

Following the introduction of potatoes to Europe, they were eventually incorporated into gnocchi recipes. Potato gnocchi is particularly popular in the regions of Abruzzo, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, and Lazio.

Different Types of Gnocchi » Potato Gnocchi » Pumpkin Gnocchi » Spinach Gnocchi (Abruzzo) » Ricotta Gnocchi (Piedmont) » Ricotta Gnocchi / Gnudi (Tuscany) » Ricotta Spinach Gnocchi / Gnudi (Tuscany) » Canederli (Bread Gnocchi or Gnocchi Di Pane - South Tyrol - and the oldest known form of gnocchi) » Semolina Gnocchi (Rome)

Homemade Potato Gnocchi TIPS, TRICKS & TECHNIQUES

Prep Time: 45 Minutes (Once the Potatoes are Baked and Out of the Oven) Cook Time: 2 - 3 Minutes (Once the Gnocchi have Risen to the Top) | Yield: 4 to 6 Servings

INGREDIENTS » » » »

salt and ½ cup of the flour evenly over potatoes and egg yolk. 7. Using a bench scraper or a rubber spatula, very gently fold mixture over onto itself several times, gradually folding in remaining ½ cup flour just until all flour is incorporated and dough comes together in a mass. Do not knead or overwork. 8. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly dust with flour; set aside. Clean work surface and lightly dust with flour. Divide dough evenly into 4 pieces, about 5 ¼ ounces each. 9. Roll 1 dough piece into a ¾-inch-thick rope, about 9 inches long. Cut rope crosswise into ¾-inch-long gnocchi pieces. 10. Roll each piece against tines of a fork to make ridges, transfer to prepared baking sheet. Repeat the process with the remaining 3 dough pieces. 11. Bring salted water to a boil in a 4-quart stockpot over high. Add half of the gnocchi to boiling water and gently stir once. Cook until the gnocchi rise to the surface (about 2 minutes), and then gently boil 1 more minute, reducing heat as necessary to maintain a gentle boil.

2 pounds Russet potatoes (approximately 4) 2 large eggs Kosher salt 1 cup of all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the gnocchi

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place potatoes directly on middle rack in preheated oven. Bake until very tender when pierced with a paring knife (1 hour, 15 minutes to 1 hour, 30 minutes). 2. Carefully cut potatoes in half lengthwise; let them stand until cool enough to handle (about 20 minutes). 3. Using a paring knife, peel potatoes and discard skins. 4. Press potatoes through a potato ricer (or thoroughly mash in a bowl). 5. Then place the potatoes onto a clean work surface; spread in an even layer. Let cool until almost room temperature (about 8 minutes). 6. Drizzle egg yolk evenly over potatoes. Sprinkle 4

THE DO’S & DON’TS OF

Making Gnocchi 1. There is a wide variety of potatoes available, and the ideal choice for making gnocchi is a potato with high starch and low moisture. Many chefs favor Russet potatoes. If you prefer a potato with a more robust flavor, consider using Yukon Gold potatoes, which will create a distinct taste to your gnocchi.

6. Avoid overworking the dough. Gluten is not always your friend when making gnocchi. The more you work the dough, the more gluten it produces. Producing excessive gluten can result in a gnocchi texture reminiscent of new tires. When working with your dough and incorporating the flour, consider using a scraper to gently fold the flour in or mix the ingredients together. Once the components are incorporated, transition to using your hands to bring the mixture together. It’s important to avoid treating this dough like bread, so refrain from pulling, stretching, and folding the dough.

2. The choice between baking, steaming, or boiling potatoes is a common question. Boiling potatoes can absorb water and increase the moisture content making it more difficult to work with; this might require adding more flour to keep the gnocchi together. Therefore, we recommend baking the potatoes instead. If you can’t bake, then steaming is a good alternative, and if neither is possible, boiling can be considered.

7. While ridges on gnocchi are optional, they serve a purpose. Using a ridge paddle or form to shape your gnocchi creates ridges and a dimple on the back, providing an ideal surface for the sauce to adhere to, resulting in a perfect bite. Without these ridges or dimples, the sauce may not cling as effectively, offering a less flavorful bite.

3. When mashing your potatoes for gnocchi preparation, we recommend using a potato ricer, food mill, or grater. These tools avoid overworking the potatoes, resulting in a lighter and more pillow-like product. Mashing the potatoes with a conventional masher or whipping them with a hand mixer can lead to a denser consistency known as the potato glop.

8. Tossing the gnocchi in flour is an often overlooked step. It’s important to note that when making the dough, the flour should be used sparingly. However, after the dough is prepared and you’re shaping it,

4. What flour do I use? I recommend using all purpose flour or 00 flour. If you decide to use 00 flour, please note that you may have to modify the liquids that you use in the gnocchi recipe or increase the amount of flour as the smaller particle size of the flour absorbs less water. 00 flour will often give you more delicate gnocchi; however, I still recommend using all purpose when you are first starting out. 5. Don’t add too much flour at once, rather add it gradually. If you add too much at once, then you could end up with gummy and sticky gnocchi. As a rule of thumb, you should use a 1/4 cup of flour per 1 pound of potatoes to start with

Continued on page 6

The Do’s and Don’ts of Making Gnocchi continued from page 5.

STORING GNOCCHI OR GNUDI

we recommend using a generous amount of flour on both your hands and the gnocchi. This helps prevent the individual pieces from sticking together. 9. Pan frying gnocchi is delicious, especially with store-bought gnocchi that may become dense when boiled. If you haven’t tried pan-fried gnocchi yet, you’re missing out; it’s worth giving it a go!

Fresh gnocchi can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days. Make sure you keep them separated so they do not stick together and freeze them if you will not use them in 2-to-3days’ time.

Gnocchi freezes very well. Just line the gnocchi or gnudi on a small sheet tray or platter and put it in the freezer for approximately 3 hours. Once frozen, remove them and place in a zip lock freezer bag for 3 months or use a food saver and they will keep for 1 - 1½ years.

When you are ready to use them from the freezer, do not thaw them or they will become gummy. Just put the frozen balls of delight in the boiling, salted water and wait for them to float to the top (adds another minute or two to the cooking time).

10. Try different sauces. Search the web and see what other sauces work with gnocchi. A few sauces that I like to suggest are brown butter and sage, pesto, and a simple pomodoro, just to name a few. 11. Salt your water before you add your gnocchi. This will help with the overall flavor. 12. Finally, don’t over sauce your gnocchi. Unless you like the sauce more than the gnocchi then add the little pillow of love to your soup of sauce. Less is more in my opinion.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GNOCCHI & GNUDI

» Large Wooden Cutting Board, 30” x 20” Bamboo: Amazon.com » Gnocchi Board, 8” Beechwood: Amazon.com » Potato Ricer, OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel: Amazon.com

Gnudi are gnocchi-like dumplings made with ricotta cheese instead of potatoes like the traditional gnocchi. The result is often a lighter, “pillowy” dish, unlike the often denser, chewier gnocchi.

Black Truffle & Parmesan CREAM SAUCE

Prep Time: 10 Minutes | Cook Time: 15 Minutes Yield: 4 to 6 Servings

INGREDIENTS » » » » » » » » »

1 pound of gnocchi or gnudi (fresh, if possible) 1 tablespoon black truffle oil (get a good truffle oil, it makes a difference and lasts longer) 2 cloves of minced garlic 2 cups of heavy cream ½ cup Parmigiano Reggiano (preferably aged 24 months, and freshly grated) 2 tablespoons black truffles shavings in olive oil 1½ tablespoons truffle slices in olive oil ½ teaspoon of kosher salt (more to taste) ½ teaspoon of fresh cracked pepper (more to taste)

DIRECTIONS

1. In a large sauté pan heat the truffle oil over medium heat. 2. Add the minced garlic and sauté for 20 seconds (be careful not to burn or overcook the garlic). 3. Take half a ladleful of the water the gnocchi were cooked in a add it to the pan with the heavy cream and Parmigiano Reggiano.

7. Garnish with more freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and the remaining ½ tablesppon sliced truffles and serve.

4. Over medium heat, bring the cream sauce to a simmer (continually whisking). Reduce the heat to low and continue to whisk until the cheese melts and the sauce comes together and becomes smooth.

NOTES

5. Add the truffle shavings and 1 tablespoon of the truffle slices and stir once again until everything is incorporated. 6. Add your pasta or gnocchi of choice and toss to coat evenly (add a little more pasta water if the sauce is too thick, but be careful not to thin it out too much). 7

This recipe only calls for truffle slices but I added truffle shavings as well for a little more luxury.

Please note that this sauce is meant to be consumed in the same meal period as it does not store well, so please indulge and enjoy every last morsel of this decadent sauce.

Wine Recommendation: A nice medium to full bodied chardonnay, such as the Hahn SLH Chardonnay.

Brown Butter & Sage SAUCE

Prep Time: 5 Minutes | Cook Time: 5 Minutes Yield: 4 to 6 Servings

INGREDIENTS » » » » »

cook for 1 minute tossing the gnocchi to evenly coat them with sauce (if you are worried about tossing in a sauté pan then mix the gnocchi and sauce with a spoon or spatula).

1 pound of gnocchi or gnudi (fresh, if possible) 4 - 6 tablespoons of unsalted butter 8 - 10 fresh whole sage leaves ¼ teaspoon of fresh cracked pepper Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Gran Padano Cheese (approximately ½ cup)

3. Plate the gnocchi with the sauce. Garnish it with fresh cracked pepper and the freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Gran Padano cheese, then serve immediately.

DIRECTIONS

1. Melt the butter and sage in a large sauté pan over medium heat until it is fragrant and nutty (approximately 3 minutes).

NOTES

Wine Recommendation: A nice medium bodied viognier from the Rhone Valley, such as Halos de Jupiter Viognier.

2. Add the cooked gnocchi to the sauté pan and 8

The Classic Negroni THE HISTORY & RECIPE

SIMILAR COCKTAILS

he negroni is a cocktail, made of equal parts gin, vermouth rosso (red, semi-sweet), and Campari, generally served on the rocks, and commonly garnished with an orange slice or orange peel. It is considered an aperitif.

» »

Boulevardier (Bourbon, Sweet Vermouth, and Campari) Old Pal (Rye Whiskey, Dry Vermouth, Camparo)

INGREDIENTS

The exact origins of the Negroni are not known with certainty, but according to the most widely accepted accounts, it emerged as an aperitivo popular in Northern Italy at the beginning of the twentieth century.

» » » »

1 ounce gin 1 ounce Campari 1 ounce sweet vermouth Garnish with orange peel

DIRECTIONS

Gaz Regan in The Negroni provides insight, stating, “Thanks to Dom Costa, we know that the Negroni was from the loins of the Americano, the Americano was based on the Milano-Torino.”

1. Add the gin, Campari and sweet vermouth to a mixing glass filled with ice, and stir until wellchilled. 2. Strain into a rocks glass over a large ice cube. 3. Garnish with an orange peel.

The Milano-Torino, interestingly, derives from the geographic origins of its two primary ingredients: equal parts Campari (from Milan) and Amora Cora (from Turin). The Milano-Torino is believed to have been crafted in the 1860’s at Café Camparino in Milan, owned by Gaspare Campari. During this period of economic growth and increased travel affordability, the drink gained popularity among Americans who were exploring the world and exerting their influence. In this instance, their influence included requesting the addition of a dash of soda water to the Milano-Torino, thereby giving rise to the Americano. The story continues that in 1919, an Italian-born character, Count Camillo Negroni, known for his flair and a regular patron at the Casoni Bar (later named Caffe Giacosa) in Florence, Italy, requested a stronger version of his water with gin, swapping the lemon peel for an orange peel. This new concoction became the Count’s regular order. Other patrons at the bar soon began asking for “one of Count Negroni’s drinks,” and over time, the beverage simply became known as the Negroni. 9