Winter 2018 by Overland Journal

WINTER 2018 $12

OVERLAND

GREENLAND | TRAILERS | LIBYA | JORDAN

JOURNAL

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

CONTENTS WINTER 2018

Feature s 28

By Way of the Wolf: Crossing Greenland from South to North, Scott Brady

Comprehensive Trailer Test, Scott Brady and Chris Cordes

Dr. Livingstone, I Presume?: Self-discovery in Malawi, Graeme Bell

Libya, Just Weep: Optimism in an Extraordinary Desert, Tom Sheppard

101

Feature Vehicle: The Outpost II Camper, Chris Collard

109

The New Road to Tuk: CanadaĘźs Northwest Territories, Ray Hyland

Dep artments 12

The Feed

Field Tested

Latitude, Ashton Ray Hansen

117

Life on the Road: Laundry, Graeme Bell

119

Destinations: Jordan, Karin-Marijke Vis

127

Overland Medicine: Airway Emergencies, Dr. Jon S. Solberg MD, FAWM

131

Overland Conservation: Mission to Heal, Chris Collard

133

Photography: The Well-traveled Lens, David duChemin

136

Overland Chef: Chili con Carne, David Braden Horn

140

Tail Lamp: Industry City Manufacturing, S.K. Davis

On the cover: Deep snow and a mounting storm made progress nearly impossible. Pulling winch line became a regular occurrence, made all the more dangerous by the hidden crevasses. Photo by Scott Brady. This photo: Greenland is a massive expanse of ice, and anytime we were near the coast, extreme terrain and difficult wayfinding was par for the course. Photo by Scott Brady. Back cover: The cold soaked into everything, fatiguing metal and damaging flesh. Snow covered and penetrated surfaces making for a constant battle against the elements. Photo by Scott Brady.

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

OVERLAND J O U R N A L

WE ARE ADVENTURERS

Constantly traveling. Testing and using gear in real-world situations. Gaining experience, which we readily share.

OUR RESUME

7 continents | 147 countries | 396 years combined experience

EXPERIENCE MATTERS

WE ONLY KNOW THINGS WHEN WE LIVE THEM

WINTER 2018

PUBLISHER AND CHAIRMAN Scott Brady

PRESIDENT AND DIRECTOR OF DESIGN Stephanie Brady CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER Christian Pelletier

CHIEF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT OFFICER Brian McVickers CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Andre Racine

EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Sinuhe Xavier

DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Michael Brailey MANAGING EDITOR OVERLAND JOURNAL Sarah Ramm MANAGING EDITOR EXPEDITION PORTAL Chris Cordes EDITOR Tena Overacker

EDITOR-AT-LARGE Chris Collard

CONSERVATION EDITOR Åsa Björklund

MEDICAL EDITOR Dr. Jon Solberg, MD, FAWM

ARCHAEOLOGY SENIOR EDITOR Bryon Bass, PhD

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Graeme Bell, S.K. Davis, David duChemin, David Braden Horn, Ray Hyland, Lisa Morris, Tom Sheppard, Karin-Marijke Vis, Gary and Monika Wescott SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Bruce Dorn CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Clay Croft, Ashton Ray Hansen, Jason Spafford, Coen Wubbels ILLUSTRATOR Michele Dallorso COPY EDITORS Arden Kysely, Jacques Laliberté CARTOGRAPHER David Medeiros CUSTOMER SERVICE COORDINATOR Alexandra Christenson CONTACT

Overland Journal, 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301 service@overlandjournal.com, editor@overlandjournal.com, advertising@overlandjournal.com, 928-777-8567 MOVING?

Send address changes to service@overlandjournal.com. Include complete old address as well as new address. Allow two to four weeks for the change to become effective. Overland Journal is not forwarded by the US Postal Service. It is the subscriber’s responsibility to inform Overland Journal of an address change. Overland Journal is a trademark of Overland International, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Overland Journal is a wholly owned subsidiary of Overland International.

NO COMPROMISE We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are independent and impartial. We never have and never will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising to influence our product or destination reviews.

THE FEED

ROW 1 @marriedtodanger It’s not the obstacle; it’s the adventure. #Toyota#4Runner#Safari#OverlandJournal @desktoglory By far, my favourite part of the @nwoverlandrally was spending time with old friends and making new ones along the way. @florendobre A nuestra salud. (To our health.) #VanLifestyle #Nazare#VWConversion ROW 2 @condordavis You know it’s going to get lit when there’s a spare set of winch rope. Last day’s prep. #Expedition Portal#OverlandJournal#SponsoredByZipties @pikipiki_overland_blog Levitate, it’s Friday! Deep, very deep in the Amazon jungle of Ecuador, so deep @beargrylls would have had to drink his own pee to get there. @driventowander Flying the drone at 15,400 feet. ROW 3 @gr4nola [After] 22 days and five boats, I’ve arrived in Yurimaguas, a small Peruvian town on the outskirts of the Amazon and the first town in Peru I’m able to ride out of. @leokar4x4 La distancia no es problema. (Distance is not a problem.) @encuentrooverland I was looking back through the archives and found this photo of me reading Overland Journal in the middle of nowhere, Libya. It was 8 January 2011, just before the uprising against Gaddafi started in February of that year. Unfortunately, it is far too dangerous now to return. –Toby Savage

GET A HOLD ON THINGS

I purchased the Fiskars hatchet that you featured in your Spring 2018 edition. I made one small modification that may interest you. I wrapped the handle with tennis racquet grip (ends secured with a little J-B Weld). Head makes a padded, tacky grip called Softac Traction which has many uses for different gear for overlanders [and is] under $10. 12

Thanks, Ken Hyne 2004 Jeep Rubicon

SO DELIGHTED

I am employed by the company that prints your fabulous magazine, so of course, I’m always waiting for the next issue to arrive. I OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

live vicariously through the stories of Overland’s brave and amazing travelers, wishing it were me. I was especially touched by Jake Quiñones’ tale of little Luka. I too have a rescue dog, but her story isn’t as compelling and sweet as Luka’s. The doggie gods were looking down on her the day of her rescue, and I applaud Jake for “getting lost,” turning around and adopting her right on the spot. I don’t know of too many people who would have even turned around. Many thanks to Jake for sharing such a delightful story and for being the best dog lover. Also, thanks for including pets in such wonderful stories. Gratefully, Molly Jurca 2008 Yamaha V Star

SHARE Use #overlandjournal on Instagram or Facebook. WHERE HAS YOUR OVERLAND JOURNAL BEEN? Send us a photo, along with your name, the location, make/year of your vehicle, and a brief description. editor@overlandjournal.com

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

CONTRIBUTORS WINTER 2018

DAVID BRADEN HORN

TOM SHEPPARD

RAY HYLAND

David was that kid staring out the window of the classroom, daydreaming about exploring outdoors. He grew up as a military nomad, developing an insatiable curiosity and sense of wonder that continues to this day. After bouncing between jobs as varied as construction work in Alaska to firefighting in Arizona, he began a two-decade career in the express shipping industry. David then returned to an early passion for vintage overland vehicles by sourcing and importing them, documenting the search for these iconic trucks in words and images. Still fighting off the occasional urge to pull up stakes and move again, he currently makes his home in Texas. A traveler, photographer, writer, equestrian, aviator, and cook, David recently added fatherhood to his list of life’s adventures.

Tom’s overlanding experience spans over 50 years and 110,000 miles, including three UK–Gulf journeys (one through pre-tarmac Saudi Arabia), off-tracks exploration in Northern Africa, and the first-ever lateral crossing and continuous gravity survey of the Sahara from the Atlantic to the Red Sea, for which he gained the Royal Geographical Society’s Ness Award. Tom is, as he puts it, “CEO, MD, author, photographer, designer, and postal clerk” at Desert Winds Publishing in the UK, from which have emerged the Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide, Four-by-four Driving, The Nobility of Wilderness, and Quiet, for a Tuesday—the story of his 16th foray into the remotest regions of the Algerian Sahara.

Ray’s vehicle choices are often considered eclectic, if not eccentric. As a member of the Explorers Club and a Fellow of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, he loves to add an element of uncertainty to each trip. In 2016, he drove 16,000 miles from London to Singapore over nine months with his wife and three kids in an unrestored, $300, 62-year-old Land Rover that broke down every single day. He is also the face of the popular Overland Rallies series of events held in the Pacific Northwest every summer, where he tries to follow the Rallies’ motto every day, “Have fun, meet people, learn stuff!” When not exploring, he is based near Vancouver, British Columbia.

ASHTON RAY HANSEN

KARIN-MARIJKE VIS AND COEN WUBBELS

Based in Boulder, Colorado, Ashton has spent the better part of a decade specializing in food and lifestyle photography for commercial and advertising clients. It wasn’t until December of 2016, when he bought his first Toyota 4Runner, that his focus changed entirely. Exploring around the high Rockies with his partner-in-crime, Laura, and their Australian Shepherd, Lily, he discovered what fuels his fire most: automotive adventuring, or overlanding, if you will. Soon, he plans to traverse the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route (COBDR)—a 675-mile route that begins at the Four Corners and winds its way to the Wyoming border. When Ashton’s not on the road, he’s most likely eating tacos and sipping on margaritas. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

Freelance writer Karin-Marijke Vis, along with her partner, photographer Coen Wubbels, combine their love for adventure with work they enjoy. Sometimes described as being the “slowest overlanders in the world,” they believe in making connections and staying in a place long enough to do so. In 2003, the couple purchased an antique BJ45 Land Cruiser and began a three-year trip from their home in the Netherlands to Asia. Terminally infected by the overland bug, they traveled in South America for nine years, and in Japan and South Korea for two years. They are currently making their way through Russia and Central Asia. They’ve been published in magazines around the world, and in 2013, Expedition Portal awarded the pair the coveted Overlander of the Year award.

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

CONTRIBUTORS WINTER 2018

GRAEME BELL

S.K. DAVIS

GARY AND MONIKA WESCOTT

Graeme Bell is a full-time overlander and the author of three books: We Will Be Free, Travel the Planet Overland, and Overlanding the Americas: La Lucha. He is traveling the planet with his wife, Luisa, and two children, Keelan and Jessica, in a Land Rover Defender 130 (affectionately known as Mafuta). To date, the Bell family and Mafuta have toured Southern and East Africa, circumnavigated South America, and driven from Argentina to Alaska. They also journeyed the US from coast to coast before overlanding from the UK to Asia. The family recently transformed their Defender from a standard double cab into a camper with through access, a pop-top, and sleeping for four in anticipation of a loop around Africa.

Steven is a Utah native who, aside from riding motorbikes, runs a small business and raises a family just north of Salt Lake City. After living in the Middle East, Europe, Canada, and Colorado, he returned to Utah to put down roots. Both his fiction and nonfiction have been published in magazines as well as online, and he is currently finishing an adventure/crime novel. When asked about his magnetic sense of humor he only replied, “I want to become the eccentric billionaire without all the money.” Currently, Steven rides a 2017 BMW R1200GS Rallye and spends most of his time exploring the West, including Baja California, Mexico.

Gary and Monika Wescott have spent the last 45 years globetrotting around the world, from the arid desert of Turkmenistan, following the Silk Road, to the jungles of the Amazon, and across Siberia in the dead of winter. The couple’s travel adventures have been published in 10 countries and eight languages. Their in-depth knowledge of the problems and joys of overland travel in remote areas is incomparable. Gary and Monika’s meticulously prepared travel/research trucks, from their original Land Rover to the current Ford F-550, The Turtle V, have been an inspiration for many. Their experience and photography encompass what Overland Journal is all about. From the beginning, The Turtle Expedition’s motto has been, “Don’t take the trip. Let the trip take you.”

LISA MORRIS AND JASON SPAFFORD

British born, self-confessed thrill-seekers, Jason and Lisa’s motivating force is adventure travel, enabling their passion as media professionals. Previously, they co-ran scuba diving trips around the watery globe as instructor guides. Having hung up the fins, they jumped in the saddle and motorcycled their way from the bottom of the planet to the top. Over the last three and a half years, they’ve clocked over 50,000 miles from Antarctica to the Arctic. Spirited advocates for nomadic living, Jason is a professional photographer, filmmaker, and drone pilot. With the visuals taken care of, Lisa scribes roadside musings and freelances for various travel and overland publications, reviews products, and consults with manufacturers of apparel and gear. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

DAVID DUCHEMIN David is a world and humanitarian assignment photographer, best-selling author, and international workshop leader whose adventurous life fuels his fire to create and share. Based in Victoria, Canada, when he’s home, David leads a nomadic life chasing compelling images on all seven continents. When on assignment, he creates powerful photographs that convey the hope and dignity of children, the vulnerable, and the oppressed for the international NGO community. When creating the art he so passionately shares, David strives to capture the beauty of the natural world. Drawing on a previous career in comedy, he is a dynamic and engaging itinerant presenter and educator, inspiring others through stunning visuals and hilarious travel stories from a life spent outside and abroad.

OVERLAND J O U R N A L

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OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

FIELD TESTED CHRIS COLLARD

General Tire Grabber X3

LONG-TERM REVIEW

GT’s new crossover is still going strong after 25,000 miles. Two years ago, we introduced you to General Tire’s new Grabber X3, a hybrid of an allterrain and mud-terrain tire. During development of the X3, GT’s goals were to produce a tire that would perform well in mud, dirt, and rocks while keeping highway noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) at bay. Since that time, we’ve mounted a set (285/75R16) on our project Tacoma and have rolled over 25,000 miles on many surfaces. They have seen numerous trips to the slickrock of Moab, Utah, the snowy Sierra Nevada, and sandy two-tracks of Mexico. I’ve spent a lot of time on the tarmac reaching these locales, which provided a solid foundation for this long-term assessment. ROAD AND TRAIL The X3’s multi-pitch tread block and shoulder are designed to minimize highway noise at speed. As expected, NVH when new was more noticeable than it would be with a milder allterrain pattern. The increase over time, now that they are about 20 percent into the tread depth, has been gradual; in my opinion, it’s an acceptable tradeoff for their off-pavement prowess. Although aggressive tires are not known for wet surface traction, the X3 does a pretty effective job of holding the line in turns and hard braking. Living in the northern Sierra Nevada, I’ve had plenty of opportunities to vet the X3 on plowed snowy roads, in fresh powder, and on unmaintained forest roads. I’ve found 15 psi to be an appropriate pressure for extended off-pavement trips at moderate speeds as well as short stretches of highway. Aired down to 10 psi when conditions mandate (I have gone as low as 5 psi), the 3-ply DuraGen sidewall, wide voids, and full-depth siping allow the carcass to deform nicely, providing a desirable inverted mushroom shape that conforms to the tractive surface quite well. The wraparound sidewall tread and shoulder scoops do a good job of grabbing the edges of muddy trenches as well as dry granite surfaces.

THE LONG RUN With 25,000 miles under their belts, tread depth sits at 18/32nds of the original 21/32nds. Impressive. Considering the terrain they’ve seen, chipping and sidewall abrasion has been minimal, though I did suffer a sidewall puncture (repairable) while chasing the Mexican 1000 in Baja. I’ve been happy with the overall performance of the Grabber X3 and expect to get another 10,000 or so miles on the odometer before hitting the point I usually replace my tires (about 60 percent of tread depth). The X3 is available in 42 sizes ranging from 31 to 37 inches.

Clockwise from top: At 10 to 15 psi, the X3 performs well in soft sand and snow. The X3’s 3-ply DuraGen construction, wide voids, and siping allow it to conform to the tractive surface. After 25,000 miles on varying terrain, abrasion and chipping have been limited.

GENERALTIRE.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

FIELD TESTED LISA MORRIS AND GARY WESCOTT

Klim Artemis

A women’s suit to write home about.

Photography by Jason Spafford

As a full-time location independent rider, I require a suit that employs excellent protection and comfort, whether riding on pavement or off. Over day-long stretches, the Artemis articulates well with my joints and limbs, allowing excellent manoeuvrability. The prototype tested isn’t a production colourway although like the grey and tan offerings, remained practical in the heat. Optimal ventilation employed, I stayed sweetnatured in 85°F temps. The jacket boasts 10 vents for optimum airflow, including two unique cross-core ones that ventilate the chest—in searing temperatures, they permit aeration with a “comfort-mapped ventilation” system which is sublime. As expected, the Gore-Tex, two-layer shell kept me bone-dry through Oregon’s winter rains—without pesky liners. The pants possess storage on each thigh, with ample compartments running through the

jacket. Cutting-edge components such as Karbonite ripstop feature in the high abrasion zones. A polygiene anti-odour liner is coupled with Klim Tek cooling technology which enhances breathability. Far from bulky, the flexible integrated D3O armour is easy to pop in and out when needed, and equipped with decent ventilation too. For overall responsiveness, this is the best three-season suit I’ve worn to date. The articulated elbows and adjustments at the biceps, forearms, and waist, combined with Klim’s female-centric tailoring, make the Artemis a joy to wear for long miles on the road. Ultimately, it’s a high-end product built to go the distance. Sure, it’s a considered purchase, but for its intended use of riding, the Artemis is currently trailblazing the women’s arena. (LM) $700 (JACKET), $550-$570 (PANT) | KLIM.COM

Element E50 Professional Fire Extinguisher When every second counts. Fire often happens when you least expect it and without your consent. When it does, it’s important to control the flames quickly. If it’s out of control, you probably should have already called 911. If you are in a remote location or on the road, quick containment of fire can be the difference between little or no damage and a disaster. We should all carry at least one fire extinguisher in our vehicle. The Element from Italy is very effective when dealing with the major classes of fire, is light (.60 pounds) and compact (11.75 x 1.2 inches), non-pressurized, leaves no residue, and never needs recharging. It uses an ingenious aerosol-like potassium powder jet

that vaporizes into the target area, creating a gas that acts as an oxygen block to the fire which prevents combustion. Unlike a common pressurized powder extinguisher that can compact on bumpy roads, rendering it almost useless, the Element simply facilitates a non-toxic chemical reaction, making it ideal for overland applications. We recently tested one on a pile of oily rags, spiked with a little diesel and gas to make it exciting. We pulled off the protective cap and employed the spark igniter (sort of like a road flare), and the fire was quickly put out. No type of extinguisher will douse all fires, but with no extinguisher at all, your

vehicle, shop, or worse is at the mercy of luck and 911. The unit is not certified by Underwriter Laboratories (since it does not fit into one of their current testing standards), but for private use in an overland vehicle that certification is unnecessary. (GW) $80 | ELEMENTFIRE.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

FIELD TESTED SCOTT BRADY

Sena Momentum

The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first active noise control helmet. Sena is a leader in the motorcycle communications market, and they have released a line of helmets with fully integrated noise control, radios, and device connectivity. I found the Momentum to fit true to size and be particularly comfortable, although not lightweight (nearly 4 pounds). The noise-canceling system does help, particularly with general road riding, but I still resorted to ear plugs at interstate speeds. It is well-insulated for warmth in cold conditions but needs more ventilation for really hot days. All of the typical Sena features fall easily to hand via the incorporated buttons, speakers, and microphone. Colors are black and white with an optional HD action camera.

PROS Quality construction Excellent value Noise control effective at most legal speeds Fully integrated connectivity and communications CONS Weak ventilation Lack of sun visor Excessive fogging (without Pinlock insert)

$549 | SENA.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

FIELD TESTED SCOTT BRADY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON SPAFFORD

2018 Triumph Tiger 800 XCA All the power, performance, and comfort needed to ride around the world.

PROS Exceptional WP suspension Packed with performance-enhancing technology Over 70 mpg cruising economy CONS Limited torque off idle requires excessive throttle/clutch modulation Exhaust and oil filter are vulnerable to damage Heated grips only warm; wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t toast

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

Triumph launched the Tiger in 1937 with a 4-speed transmission and 20 horsepower; the model was produced until the night of November 14, 1940, when German bombers leveled much of the city of Coventry, England. Triumph’s off-pavement legacy continued in 1964 with the International Six Days Trial, with the first American team to ever compete. That team included Steve McQueen riding a 333cc Triumph, complete with Bell helmet and Barbour jacket. What followed were the dark years of dirt prowess for the company, save for a limited production of the Tiger Trail (1981-82). In 2010, this all changed with the 800 XC, which quickly bested all competitors in the class and has now been improved again with the XCA model. ON THE ROAD The improvements to the new XCA are broad, touching nearly every critical system of the motorcycle and logging over 200 upgrades from the previous version. Most notable on the road is the lower first gear and better engine responsiveness, addressing one of my concerns with the earlier 800s: limited low-end performance. Power also increased to 95 horsepower while fuel economy improved by 17 percent, achieving a seemingly impossible 77.4 mpg at 56 mph and a range of 387 miles out of the 5-gallon tank—that is GSA territory. As a travel motorcycle, the 800 is fun to ride, with adequate power and a light, eager feel. The XCA comes with a 650-watt alternator/stator and optional heated grips and seats (yes, the pillion too). The large windscreen provides broad coverage, and the cruise control allows for welcome relief on those long, straight roads. Pillion comfort is reduced when compared with larger ADV options. The large TFT screen is a pleasure to view and easy to read. OVERLAND I want a motorcycle that can take me around the globe, and the 800 XCA would make the short list. From the large alternator/stator to the factory skid plate and crash bars to the WP suspension, this model is intentionally designed for bad roads and technical tracks. I pushed the 800 hard on our test course, deliberately taking lines to test the limits of wheel

travel and the powertrain. I immediately noticed the improved low-end responsiveness and the lower first gear. It still requires more RPM and clutch/throttle modulation than others in the segment, but that skill can be quickly learned, and the wet clutch has proven up to the task. The 21-inch front wheel rolls over obstacles like a dirt bike, complemented by the nearly 9 inches of suspension travel. The tuning of this new WP suspension package cannot be understated, providing confidence to the rider on everything from fast, corrugated roads to ruts, rocks, and ledges. CONCLUSIONS For the sake of curiosity, I compared the BMW R1150GSA to the Triumph 800 XCA. The 1150GSA was the bike used for the storied Long Way Round and is much loved. However, this Triumph has more power, more suspension travel, better fuel economy, and better range (yep). The 800 weighs 70 pounds less, and sports such luxuries as cruise control, traction control, and three power ports. So much has changed in only 10 years of adventure motorcycle innovation, and this new 800 XCA is ready to take us as far as we dare to go.

This is the first 800cc motorcycle I have tested that did not feel like a compromise between larger and smaller options. It is a pleasure to ride both on pavement and off. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Heated grips and a heated seat, a unique pairing in an 800-class motorcycle. The TFT screen is easy to read and configurable. I appreciated the wide range of information available with only a few toggles of the grip-mounted switch. Proper off-highway pegs from the factory—bravo. The performance of the WP suspension is notable and inspired confidence in all of our testing conditions.

TRIUMPHMOTORCYCLES.COM

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

By Way of the Wolf Crossing Greenlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ice Sheet from south to north. By Scott Brady

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

clipped the 10mm static line to my harness, the carabiners and ice screws clanking as I moved in my seat, the other end of the rope secured to a massive plate on the floorboard. The action felt like a duty, a promise I had made to those I love back home, a token to alleviate their fear. Sure, there were crevasses on this glacier, but what were the chances? I grabbed the door handle and opened it to swirling snow and biting cold, my feet descending to the surface of ice—but the purchase did not come, my left leg punching through the snow bridge, gravity unchecked by the illusion of safety. My right foot was just at the lip of the crevasse, but it held and arrested my descent. I was lucky, this one was no wider than my leg, and I felt grateful for that leash and for promises. Looking at Emil, I yelled, “I just fell knee deep into one.” His reply, with typical Icelandic brevity, was “Scott, we are in a minefield.” Steadying myself, I looked into the hole my boot had opened, and all that shown was darkness. I pulled on the Prusik knot, slowly moving to the side of the vehicle to examine the terrain ahead. It was a labyrinth, a sea of frozen valleys and cliffs, the hollows filled with snow and the ridges glistening with azure ice. As the scout vehicle, Emil and I had already spent several hours attempting to discover a weakness in the maze, but it had grown dark, the shapes playing tricks in the light of our headlights and headlamps. Obstacles that were small seemed massive, while real challenges appeared benign. We needed to see; we needed sunlight to gauge distance and scale. While we contemplated a plan, the radio crackled to life, Kurt’s voice yelling, “Stop, stop, stop—your trailer just fell in a crevasse!” DESTINATION GREENLAND

Most adventures start with a spark, an idea that burns into a goal and a plan. This ember was the continuation of the flame set by Greg Miller’s and my travels to all seven continents with Expeditions 7. After that journey, what was next? Over three years, Greg researched everything from an attempt to drive to the North Pole to traversing the Yukon River in winter. But what stuck was a first crossing of the long axis of Greenland’s Ice Sheet by 4WD, from Isortoq in the south to Wulff Land in the north—something that had never been attempted. For this, we would need logistical and technical support, which came primarily from Arctic Trucks in Iceland. They were not only the outfitters of the vehicles but had the only team to have successfully traveled on the ice sheet by

A brilliant parhelion punctuates the skyline, flanked by rainbows and secondary halos. Opening spread: The convoy of Arctic Trucks ascends the Wulff Land glacier, climbing up from our northern terminus point. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

Photo by Emil Grimson

Clockwise from top left: The newest HiLux pulled both sleds at the highest altitudes; the 6WD struggled with the loss of engine power. Damage from crashing through the ice included a bent wheel and compromised suspension components. Disembarkment from the landing craft, the vessel forced against the melting sea ice. Disaster occurred before the trip even started, with one of the vehicles breaking through a frozen lake at speed. Opposite: Necessity is the mother of invention, a hub repair better served by digging out the tire rather than jacking up the heavy trailer.

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

wheeled vehicle. Years of planning ensued: Greg partnered with local guides and international logistic firms to establish the route and the supply drops to achieve the journey. We also needed a team, and for that, Greg called on veterans of the original E7 crew, plus a few proven adventurers to complete the lineup. There were seven members, which included Clay Croft, Emil Grimsson, Torfi Jóhannsson, Greg Miller, Dr. Jon Solberg, Kurt Williams, and me. A capable crew, no doubt, but we had 5,000 miles of ice and snow to cross on the world’s largest island. DISASTROUS BEGINNINGS

Just getting to the ice sheet nearly ended the expedition. Emil and Kurt had arrived days earlier to extract the HiLux vehicles from customs and transport them via icebreaker to the remote reindeer station of Isortoq. No easy task, since this involved a retired research vessel with a reinforced hull towing an ex-military landing craft. Heavy floes slowed their progress, and it took days to make the passage with the combination of the experienced helmsman and brute force. They reached an impenetrable sheet of ice within 10 kilometers of the station; it required days of effort and technical driving to traverse the rocky outcroppings while pulling massive tanks of fuel and supplies. In the meantime, the rest of the team was on a similar journey, taking all manner of transport to arrive at the same location. It always feels good to have the team all together, but we were met with bad news. The newest HiLux had broken through a frozen lake and sustained unknown damage, the least of which was a bent wheel. The truck had been extracted after hours of effort and the wheels removed for repair. Emil had been driving, and recounted the luck that the accident happened in only a meter of water—it could have been far worse. Over the next few days, the entire team packed, organized, and worked on the vehicles, triaging the tasks to be done while managing concerns over the warming conditions and the effect it would have on the frozen waterways. All hands were on deck, and impressively, all critical projects were completed with only a minor delay. With everyone loaded up and a final home-cooked meal in our bellies, we headed off on the frozen fjords and lakes en route to the approach glacier. A reindeer farmer named Stefan and his son were leading us on a circuitous route across boulders, ice, and snow to arrive at the base of the ice sheet. Due to the extreme dangers of crevasses, Emil had engaged the team at Think Germany to assess the topography and pressure zones of the glaciers to determine high-risk areas and to recommend a route. We followed this GPX track exactly and began our climb, struggling with boulders and silted mud through the moraine field. Our fuel requirements demanded the use of a trailer that resulted in increased stress on Greg’s HiLux, all four tires spinning slowly under the torque of the twin transfer cases. After several attempts, the obstacles were cleared, and the convoy was onto the ice sheet en route to our first fuel cache. COLD WAR

The helicopter had dropped the Jet A-1 a few days earlier, just outside of the crevasse zone, and the arduous task of trans-

ferring the fuel from barrels to sleds had begun. This proved to be the most taxing of activities, holding onto fuel hoses as they moved -30°C degree liquid through them, the conduction making it impossible to keep hands warm. The decision had been made to move fuel using two sledges and one trailer, each transporting about 1,000 liters, with the trailer also hauling our kitchen tent, crevasse bridges, and a spare tire. We were loaded, certainly to the maximum payload and towing capacities Greg and Clay of the HiLux in those conditions. And looked at each other, our mechanical woes were just beginwondering what had ning: the Toyota I was riding in came to just happened, only to an abrupt stop as if an anchor had been have their suspicions dropped, the front tires plowing into confirmed as the tire the surface. As we hopped out, it was came rolling past and clear that the steering had failed, and onto the track ahead. both wheels were facing inward—ouch. All six studs had What happened next became a theme sheared, and the throughout the trip, Torfi donned his wheel was bent. coveralls, and Kurt donned an anticipatory grin. Then came a thorough but quick assessment (remember, it is -30°C), followed by the necessary tools and a flurry of jacking, digging, prying, and wrenching. The steering was fixed in 20 minutes, the drag link reattached to the rack and pinion, no worse for wear. Feeling confident, we got back underway. But within three hours, disaster struck again; this time the trailer ejected its wheel, and the entire rig came to a sudden stop. Greg and Clay looked at each other, wondering what had just happened, only to have their suspicions confirmed as the tire came rolling past and onto the track ahead. All six studs had sheared, and the wheel was bent. Not to be deterred, everyone was back out of the vehicles and into action, a blur of activity with some working on the repairs, others reorganizing gear, and Dr. Solberg attending to our spirits with an impromptu hot meal. These mechanical issues were starting to take their toll on our progress, so we started off again in earnest, only to be stopped again with the radio pronouncing that we had lost a Jet A-1 bladder. Through a combination of ingenuity and human effort, we slid the 480-kilogram, rolling and wobbling fuel cell back onto the sledge. Now we really were behind schedule, OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

and we pushed through the night toward DYE-2, an abandoned radar station and forgotten relic of the Cold War and sci-fi nightmares, high on the ice sheet. Exhausted from nonstop driving, DYE-2 appeared like a mirage on the horizon, its six-story-high radome intended for early detection of Russian bombers What looked like a dot in reflecting the sun like facets, puncthe distance became a tuating the skyline. DYE-2 was one massive structure, eerie of four such stations in Greenland and looming in its flawless that connected to the greater Discondition, inspiring visions tant Early Warning Line (DEW) of aliens and the start of a which extended from Alaska to the Stephen King novel. Faroe Islands. What looked like a dot in the distance became a massive structure, eerie and looming in its flawless condition, inspiring visions of aliens and the start of a Stephen King novel. The wind had created a venturi around the base, keeping the structure impressively clear of snow, the adjustable steel beams slowly losing the battle against 2 meters of snow accumulation per year. I could not have been more excited to explore its depths, and we began the process of finding a way in. All of the exterior doors were locked, save one. The entry was slightly ajar and corniced with snow. The sun’s illumination reached just within the conOVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

fines, and I meandered my way up a series of stairwells to an interior portal, also cracked just wide enough to slip through to the first hallway. By this point, the crew was cracking jokes about how we were most certainly all going to die, which was suitably hilarious, but playing well into my creative mind. The thing is, I don’t watch horror films because of that overactive imagination—the Harry Potter series registers as an 11 on my terror scale. I enjoyed the momentary thrill though, punctuated by the paint peeling from the walls and a dusting of ice covering every surface. My headlamp was nowhere near strong enough, and the further we explored, the darker everything got. We walked through generator rooms and control stations; we even found the infirmary, complete with the last prescription issued, a bottle of anti-diarrheal placed neatly next to it. It was a surreal experience, a true time capsule from 1988, with magazines on the bedside tables, blankets and sheets still in place, and pictures of pinups left behind. There were frozen beer bottles in the fridge, the kitchen had uncooked bread in the oven, and the tables were set with linens. The station was evacuated in October of 1988; there were disputed accounts as to why, but most likely it was due to newer and more cost-effective technologies and the fall of the Soviet Union. Our journey through the maze ended in the radome, with a 360-degree view of the ice cap. All we could see was nothingness, a vast frozen desert in every direction.

Clockwise from top left: A prescription left on the infirmary tray at DYE-2. Many of the rooms still had bedding in place and personal effects on the walls and in the drawers. We are not sure who was celebrating, those who left the station behind or a skier crossing the ice sheet. The raydome cast an eerie light over the antenna, while also creating a greenhouse effect and almost balmy temperatures. The calendar stood frozen in time, marking the end of a four-decade-long operation. Enter if you dare. Opposite: Straight out of a sci-fi movie, DYE-2 stood as a defiant sentinel against blowing snow and passing decades.

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DETERMINATION

It is curious the things that affect us more deeply than they should, those experiences that stick with us in our memories. We had stopped for just a moment to clear snow from our snorkels when I spotted the tracks. They were heading deeper into the ice sheet, and the animal was struggling, each imprint in the surface complete with a long drag from its claws. I knelt down and looked closer, the familiar X between the pads indicating that it was a wolf, and it was alone. I scanned the horizon, but there was nothing, and it made me sick to think of that majestic creature suffering nearly 100 kilometers from the coast with little likelihood of survival. It struck close to home, our expedition’s goal being Wulff Land in the north and having cared for two malamutes as pets. There was not much we could do, but it sits with me still. Like the wolf, our own struggles continued to mount, the surface conditions degrading with each hour as we closed in on the eastern coastline, heading to the set fuel drop of a dozen drums and a few spare parts. The Russians call the surface here sastrugi, deep, dune-like waves of wind-hardened snow that forms at the edges of an ice sheet. Our speeds dropped from 40 kilometers per hour to 15, and the vehicles were suffering from the constant pounding. The first thing to break was the drawbar connecting the fuel sledge to the lead HiLux, which required welding and grinding. Thankfully, we had brought along an entire welding system with two Honda generators to supply power. Torfi’s welds were better with the stick than mine ever are in the shop with a MiG. We would spend over 24 hours in the same location to rendezvous with pilots from Norlandair to load empty drums and even more fuel for a deeper drop into the ice sheet. The plan of refueling from drops along the coast was proving untenable, the progress too slow and damaging to the equipment. Those deeper drops would be used for the return trip, saving us from retracing the route through the sastrugi. We pushed north, now resorting to 48 hours or more of driving between camps. It was nearly impossible to sleep while the trucks were moving, but some managed. We all laughed reluctantly at the fact that each of us had fallen asleep while driving—there was nothing to break the monotony of the featureless path. Kurt argued that it didn’t count as falling asleep at the wheel unless it was a minute or more. I know I got close to that and once woke from a nap in the passenger seat to see Emil completely out, head bobbing slightly and hands at his side, the vehicle only going straight because the ruts acted like train tracks. We were exhausted, and then the fuel bladder punctured. Kurt was the first to see it, his powers of observation legendary amongst those who know him. He noticed a small splash of fluid from the back of the sledge and immediately barked into the radio, “The bladder is punctured.” This was a serious risk to the expedition’s fuel range, as well as an unacceptable environmental impact. Emil slammed on the brakes and jumped out, running to the sled; without thinking, he pushed his gloved finger into the quarter-sized hole. He pushed hard and arrested the flow; the rest of us looked for a solution that didn’t involve someone’s hand. A board was produced and supplanted Emil’s digit, but -30°C

Jet-A1 had run through his glove and along his skin for several minutes. As soon as he stood up, he knew it was bad and rushed to the trucks’ heating vents, pulling off I pulled the door open the glove to expose his waxy fingers. He to billowing smoke and could hardly bend them, and they had no flames pouring from feeling; several of them started to swell the Coleman stove, and form blisters. Dr. Jon was called and growing in intensity and rushed to his aid, inspecting the injury lapping against the and prescribing the treatment of slowly frost-covered ceiling. warming the hand. I could see how intense the pain was as blood slowly warmed, and circulation returned. The frostbite would cause Emil pain and reduced dexterity for the rest of the trip, but being his co-driver, I never heard him complain. Those Icelanders are tough. We repaired the bladder, and all of the spilt fuel was recovered (fortunately, it had collected in the sledge). Disaster was averted for the moment. We set up camp and made an effort to get some rest. We were all busy about our responsibilities of refueling and cooking when the yell came from the kitchen tent, “Help! Fire!” I ran toward the calls, more an ingrained response from my years as a firefighter than any understanding of the danger ensuing. I pulled the door open to billowing smoke and flames pouring from the Coleman stove, growing in intensity and lapping against the frost-covered ceiling. I do not remember thinking this exactly, but I did have an immediate awareness of how dire the situation was: our only cooking tent was moments from catching fire and possibly taking much of our equipment with it. In a flash, I recalled Emil handing Greg a fire blanket, and I also remembered watching Greg put the fire blanket in the Alu-Box marked “Stoves.” I

Fuel drops made the crossing possible, with dozens of 200-liter drums shuttled to various locations on the ice sheet. Opposite: This was one of the most intense moments of the expedition: a punctured fuel bladder had the crew working immediately to save the irreplaceable reserves.

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Photo by Clay Croft

opened the lid, and there it was; the long pull tabs came to hand instantly, and I unfurled the Kevlar panel in the direction of the flames, draping it over the stove to protect the tent. The way the stove is configured, I could not get the blanket tight enough over the burners to extinguish the flames, so I grabbed the entire unit and moved it out of the tent and onto the snow. The moment was incredibly intense, but everything fell into place, and we saved the tent. I certainly felt grateful for that USAF firefighter training so many years ago. WULFF LAND

We were only a few hundred kilometers from our goal, yet our objective continued to elude us—this time with a broken strut on the 6WD, the front falling to the driver’s side and resting on the bump stops. It was now -40°C and the wind was howling. There was no protection from the whiteout, yet the repair had to be done. Jon, Kurt, and Torfi jumped into action and set up a wind block PIC OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

170 and proceeded to remove and replace the entire suspension assembly in a matter of 30 minutes. We were running out of time, and our progress was too slow. Now in a comNow in a complete plete whiteout, the vehicles rotated posiwhiteout, Greg reminded tion into the lead to provide relief for the everyone on the radio driver breaking trail. In those conditions, that losing sight of the it is impossible to see anything beyond vehicles while out on the hood; navigation is only accomplished foot meant almost by referencing a compass bearing on the certain death. GPS. Some drivers only lasted a few hours before vertigo set in for good. An omen appeared too: Torfi noticed fur blowing just under a layer of snow, the frozen carcass of a lost muskox calf a reminder of the dangers in this place. Upon seeing that, Greg reminded everyone on the radio that losing sight of the vehicles while out on foot meant almost certain death. As we pushed forward, it became clear that we might not complete the expedition; time was dwindling and the conditions wors-

ening. I had been driving for nearly 14 hours straight with nothing but the GPS screen to guide my way. We were all spent. Greg spoke over the radio and wanted to discuss contingencies, which was a good idea. Emil and I spent several minutes reviewing options and potential ways of achieving success. A team member from the 6WD walked up to our truck and shared his concerns, mirrored by the other occupants of that vehicle. This is precisely how a cascade of events starts. We were pilots flying into storm clouds, taking risks, and running out of options. We agreed with him and suggested that although visibility was nonexistent, we were still on course and had enough fuel and time to make it at the current pace. I made the recommendation to Greg that we drive until 6:00 a.m. and then make a final assessment about turning around. Less than two hours later, the storm cleared, and the first mountains of Wulff Land came into view. It is difficult to describe the feeling of putting tires to rock in the North, having crossed thousands of kilometers of snow. The feeling

of not needing the harnesses and ropes, of the warmth that came from the lower elevations, the sense of gratitude for having achieved a goal with such exceptional people. Greg had wanted to spend several days exploring this area, but our buffer of time was gone. We would have one night on the dirt, a full night of rest, and several hot meals to refresh our tired bodies. But despite our fatigue, we were elated. We had become the first in history to cross the long axis of the Greenland Ice Sheet by 4WD, but we were also only halfway. The glaciers in the south were waiting for us, and we had no known route off them. Clockwise from top left: A coilover spring failed within a few hundred kilometers of the objective. Nothing short of a Formula 1 pit crew, Kurt and Torfi swapped in the spare. Technical challenges were everywhere, requiring constant driver vigilance and capable spotters. Ascending a glacial finger through the crevasse zone. Blue ice was everywhere on the glaciers, requiring studs for the tires and crampons for our boots. Opposite: Land in the Northâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;our camp at the terminus of our crossing. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

Clockwise from top left: Pulling the trailer was necessary but excruciating work. An endless expanse, our team slowly navigated through the miss melting (photo by Clay Croft). More sledge woes, this one turtling after flipping on a rut. A harness and safety line were essential in the crevasse zones. The terrain was like Moab slickrock, but in ice and snow. The 44-inch tires were mandatory. How low can you go? At times, we had less than 3 psi in the tires.

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THE MINEFIELD

THE CREVASSE WAS HUGE, MORE THAN WIDE ENOUGH TO SWALLOW A PERSON, AND WE COULD NOT SEE THE BOTTOM. THIS GREATLY COMPLICATED THE RECOVERY, AS THIS WAS NOT THE ONLY CREVASSE THERE, PROBES REVEALING THAT THE ENTIRE AREA WAS LITTERED WITH THEM.

Per the Scientific American, of the 212 deaths on Everest, 56 percent of them occurred during the descent. Call it summit fever or something else, but the toll of a long expedition often reveals itself in the second half of the effort. For us, that did not come until nearly the end, where easy travels high on the plateau and a pleasant stop at the relative civility of Summit Station (a governmental ice coring facility and the highest point in Greenland) gave us a false sense of security. We were now days ahead of schedule and could nearly taste the pizza in Kangerlussuaq, but Greenland had one last challenge in store. Emil and I had been watching the GPS track closely, weaving between glacial lakes hidden just below a layer of ice and snow. The conditions were still good, but we knew a section of massive miss melting was just aheadâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;as the Arctic has gotten warmer, the glaciers are not only moving and calving into the sea, they are starting to melt rapidly at the tops, causing rivers, valleys, and mountains of ice to form. We only made it a few hundred meters in before the first truck was stuck, and out came the winches and shovels. The snow was so deep in the valleys that even 44-inch tires at 2 psi were not enough to get through. After the recovery, we set up the tables to make a meal, a poor substitute for the pizza we were all craving, but it somehow tasted amazing. Emil and I had been out scouting for a route ahead and ran into one impenetrable wall of ice after another. It was dark, so visibility was poor, and there were hazards everywhere. That was when the radio broke the silence. Gregâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s truck had broken through a crevasse and barely exited with the rear tire, but the trailer was in it, held up only by the chassis and its connection to the HiLux. The impact was powerful, tearing the rear tire off the Toyota and breaking the frame, a 3-inch crack visible just aft of the coil spring. The crevasse was huge, more than wide enough to swallow a person, and we could not see the bottom. This greatly complicated the recovery, as this was not the only crevasse there, probes revealing that the entire area was littered with them. Despite this, the team was in action, a chorus of clanking carabiners and whirling tools. Everyone was roped to their vehicles, and not a single cross word was said as the initial attention was placed on reseating the tire on the bead and then welding the frame. While this was occurring, Emil and I went back into our scout roles, exploring the terrain to find a way through. We could hardly drive a few dozen meters without feeling the snow give way over a OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

crevasse, but we never went in. By the time the repairs and recovery were complete, we had made it several kilometers farther down the glacier but had arrived at a dead end. We were exhausted and could not see a path forward. When the rest of the group caught up, we petitioned for continuing at We had gone from falling first light, which gave us about four into the earth to a graded hours of sleep. road and a dinner reservation. I awoke in the morning feeling Each one of us felt it, we extremely optimistic; Emil and I wanted this experience to both had a strong insight to devicontinue, to keep shaping ate from the Think Germany GPS each of us as adventurers track and start using dead reckonfor just a little longer. ing and intuition to find a path forward. This met with some resistance, but the group ultimately agreed, and we moved a full kilometer south from the intended route to find smoother terrain. The pace picked up, one obstacle after another driven over or around as we picked our way. Then Emil saw them, a faint set of tracks even farther to the south. At first, he thought they were snowmobile tracks, but it was from a set of skiers pulling sledges. They would prove to be our salvation. With each kilometer, the path improved and we got stuck less often. It was still challenging and at times dangerous, but it was manageable. I donned a set of crampons and forged ahead on the OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

higher ridges, working with Kurt and Jon to find the best path. For hours we worked under a perfect blue sky and the warmest temperatures of the trip. Then I could see more skiers, an entire gaggle of them looking dumbfounded at our approaching caravan. I walked up to the leader and told him we were terribly lost and could not find that Starbucks anywhere. Their chuckles echoed through the seracs, and I asked the leader how much farther it was to the road. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is just over there, and it is easy from hereâ&#x20AC;? was his reply. We had made it, but the transition was too sudden. Where was the smooth reentry to civilization? We had gone from falling into the earth to a graded road and a dinner reservation. Each one of us felt it, we wanted this experience to continue, to keep shaping each of us as adventurers for just a little longer. But as with so many things in life, it really was over. However, I did take some solace from that first slice of pepperoni.

After weeks on the ice sheet, our adventure was coming to a close; glacier moraine exposed through the ice and snow marked our arrival to the coast.

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Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

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Home on the Range We evaluate the latest crop of overland trailers.

By Scott Brady and Chris Cordes Photography by Chris Cordes

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

he trailer listed hard to the side, the 44-inch tire deep into the crevasse, the Hilux’s frame broken, and a tire peeled from the bead. The Expeditions 7 team had just crossed Greenland and was now fighting for every mile in a minefield of cracks and fissures that littered the glacier. We had just towed our supply trailer over 3,000 miles, carrying critical fuel and supplies in support of the expedition. At times it carried over 8,000 pounds of Jet A-1 and equipment, and as a result, it suffered numerous failures—from broken bolts, fractured welds, and even the loss of a wheel, the offending tire speeding past the tow vehicle and coming to rest in the snow. Despite these challenges, we required a trailer to complete our journey, proving the value they can provide to the traveler when capacity and (often) comfort are desired. We can all see the appeal of a fully stocked trailer sitting in the garage, everything packed and organized, a faithful companion just waiting for Friday afternoon and a weekend of exploration. The benefits are clear, but there are over 40 different manufacturers and endless options to consider. What makes for the ultimate trailer? What performance attributes are critical and often overlooked? For this article, Expedition Portal’s Managing Editor Chris Cordes and I selected seven contenders for our comparison and put them all through their paces. IDEAL SCENARIOS FOR BUYING A TRAILER PAYLOAD Many modern overland vehicles suffer from abysmal payload, with some models reaching their limit carrying just a few adults, children, and a fridge filled with food on board. The only way to safely add payload is with a trailer, which shifts the total capacity from just gross vehicle weight (GVW) to gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCVWR). STORAGE VOLUME Put a family of four in a Jeep Wrangler 2-door, and all of the usable space is gone. The best way to add storage volume is with a small trailer that has a lot of usable space. Look for products that eschew systems and gadgets in favor of an open container. These are easy to tow and can give the same space as a truck bed to stow bags, supplies, and camping equipment.

The test track was selected to evaluate a wide range of trail conditions. Our tow vehicle of choice was a 2017 Toyota Tacoma V6 automatic. The AT Chaser was a little mountain goat, with capabilities far exceeding the tow vehicle. Opening page: If off-highway travel is the goal, a trailer should be able to follow the tow vehicle—anywhere.

ROOF LOAD A trailer is better than an overloaded rack. Roof racks should be reserved for the lightest of loads, but unfortunately, it is the first place travelers tend to stash heavy, bulky items. In general, most vehicles have a roof load limit of 100-150 pounds, while most trailers can easily transport many times that (within the limits of the vehicle’s tow rating). This also brings the load lower, which makes everything easier to access. In our testing, we found the highway fuel mileage impact of a trailer to be nearly identical to that of a roof rack with boxes.

Teardrop-style trailers allow for sleeping inside a hard shell; they require no setup and will have the owners in a warm, weatherproof cocoon in a matter of seconds. No soggy tents to put away, no mattress to inflate, and no flapping fabric. These hard-wall units are quiet, comfortable, and ideal for extreme conditions.

EXTREME WEATHER

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CONVENIENCE We all lead busy lives, so the idea of having a fullstocked bug-out trailer has universal appeal. It can be parked in the garage with all of the gear properly organized and ready for service. Even late on a Friday night, the unit can be easily connected, and after a stop at the store to stock food and drinks, it is off to the campsite. This eliminates all of the packing and organizing required with a daily driver and also helps reduce the number of camping-specific modifications that have to be done to the tow vehicle. It’s also a perfect solution for leased SUVs or vehicles that serve multiple roles in the family. BASE CAMP For those who love to camp in one spot for a few days

It all starts at the coupler, which can greatly improve hitching convenience and trail limits.

or a week, disconnecting the trailer and leaving it fully assembled is a compelling advantage. Many models allow for elaborate accommodations, with full-radius awnings, large kitchens, and expansive rooms. These take time to set up but can be a welcome respite after a long day of hiking or four-wheeling.

SELECTING A TRAILER One of the most important considerations is configuration—buying a unit that best meets the needs of the traveler and their travel mates. All too often, trailers are purchased for reasons that are not critical, such as a small off-pavement trailer being pulled by a full-size truck, creating a mismatch in performance and track width, without providing amenities that cannot be easily incorporated into the tow vehicle. If comfort is the goal, buy the trailer that makes it the easiest to get a sound night’s sleep and reprieve from the weather. If plans include crossing the Rubicon, then there are only a few options that can survive such an undertaking. Start with a list of wants and then find a trailer that meets those first: looks and gadgets can come in a distant second.

FULL DISCLOSURE ON LIMITATIONS

CONFIGURATION

EXPENSE Some compact backcountry trailers can cost as much as driving to the tip of South America or easily eclipse the value of the tow vehicle. Make sure the trailer solves real issues that are affecting you and your family’s travels, such as payload, storage volume, or sleeping accommodations. It is also critical to undertake due diligence on forums like Expedition Portal to research the company you are buying from. Do they have a reputation for delivering on time, or are they known to delay builds for months? COMPLEXITY By nature, adding a trailer adds another axle, several more bearings, additional tires, suspension, a chassis, and a myriad of other systems. Trailers often have less robust components than the tow vehicle and less suspension travel, which translates to increased abuse to the entire unit and its stored contents on rough terrain. They also lengthen daily checks and service time in the field and often require unique spare parts and tools. BACKING UP AND PARKING Even the most experienced drivers struggle on technical terrain with a trailer, where backing up any distance can be difficult or even impossible. If tight trails and long shelf roads are typical for you, a trailer might pose a risk worth considering. In my travels, I have found several instances where backing up quickly was paramount—a charging elephant was the first that came to mind. RESTRICTIONS AND FEES Few consider potential fees when buying a trailer, but a trailer adds expense and a bit more complication. For example, towing a trailer in California restricts the driver to 55 mph and the right-most lanes. On ferries and when paying for tolls, the extra axles will often garner additional fees. There are game reserves and parks that restrict trailer use, and just by owning it, the buyer often pays annual registration costs in addition to insurance premiums.

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PERFORMANCE Performance begins with the suspension, which can easily make a trailer amazing, or an utter disaster once the going gets rough. Based on our experience and testing, a torsionstyle axle will not only abuse the trailer but will destroy the contents when used off-highway. The systems that work best will have suspension travel within 70 percent of the tow vehicle’s travel; otherwise, the driver will move at a comfortable pace for the 4WD, but it will turn the trailer into an expensive blender with broken bottles, shredded clothing, and shattered boxes being the result. At a minimum, the suspension should be like the Timbren Axle-Less units with longer travel and damping that occurs on compression and extension. Ideally, the suspension will be long travel and independent, with shocks to properly control rebound and compression. It is also crucial that the track width of the trailer closely matches that of the tow vehicle, or sand, mud, and ruts will all become more challenging with increased resistance and reduced control. Lastly, the distance from the axle of the trailer to the coupler should be approximately the same length (or slightly shorter) as the tow vehicle’s wheelbase to ensure that the turning radius and maneuverability is maintained, particularly on tight trails. RELIABILITY AND DURABILITY As with all equipment we use for adventure travel, reliability and durability are paramount, and

trailers are no exception. I have experienced trailer failures far more often on trips than not, seeing everything from wheels tearing off to rollovers. Durability comes from the quality of the materials used and the way the unit was designed. Some manufacturers rely on finite element analysis and advanced tools, while others wing it. Reliability is a reflection of attention to detail with wiring and other systems and the quality of assembly. Buy from manufacturers with a favorable reputation in the industry and talk with other owners on various overland forums and at events such as Overland Expo. TESTING We used a 2017 Toyota Tacoma to pull each of the samples, a decent indicator of towing performance behind most modern V6 platforms. We also conducted some longer remote travel tests behind our project G-Wagen, which allowed the opportunity to spend quality time with a few of the products we were less familiar with. Chris Cordes and I were the two evaluators. Both of us have extensive time dragging trailers through unusual conditions, including me crossing Greenland, and both of us on trips to the Arctic. Chris has owned a military-style cargo trailer, a teardrop, and currently, a 27-foot Airstream that he lives out of full time. I have owned a total of five camping trailers, the first dating back to 1999 and a Venturecraft (a brilliant, but now discontinued model). We have both developed a loveâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;hate relationship with trailers, making us particularly critical testers. The testing process included a full inspection of the trailer and systems, followed by an initial trail test and photo shoot. Next came an on-pavement test loop that was complete with city driving, twisty roads, highways, and steep grades. This allowed us to consider highway speeds and maneuverability in traffic. For the trail, we used part of our long-standing test loop, a route that provides technical cross-axle ruts and erosion, aggressive approach and departure obstacles, and tight tolerances between trees. Here we measured traction control intervention and ease of towing through the deep gullies. We purposefully hit rocks and tree stumps with the trailer tires to evaluate suspension dynamics. And, we modulated the brakes to determine braking capacity and the ability of the driver to lock the trailer tires to allow for more advanced towing maneuvers. The last route included highspeed dirt roads with corrugation, washouts, embedded rock, and decomposed granite. This segment ended at a beautiful campsite that allowed us to time setup and compare camping comfort and support systems overnight. The evaluation was constructed to be primarily empirical, with a group of criteria that included everything from measured curb weight to exact camp set-up times. Subjective considerations were related mainly to comfort and towing performance, but even those were as controlled as possible, with the same path used through technical terrain and the same road used for the pavement portion. Fortunately, the strengths and weaknesses were readily apparent and cross-validated by Chris and me. This is not to infer that all bias is removed since we both have preferences in type and important qualities, reflected in our conclusions. Both of us completed each review with Chris focusing on the camping attributes, and me writing the introduction and overland sections.

Clockwise from top: The breakover test is an important one, and there were trailers that dragged and one that was stopped in its tracks. Cross-axle terrain evaluates stability and demonstrates the range of movement in the hitch. It took some work to get the larger trailers through the evaluation course. We would hammer the suspension into rocks and stumps to gauge damping effectiveness.

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54 3.

1. The test course was a walk in the park for the Chaser. 2. The kitchen is modest but extremely functional. Why overcomplicate things? 3. Camp comfort is managed by the Eezi-Awn, one of the highest quality tents ever produced. 4. Styled after a military trailer, the Chaser is handsome and packed with utility. 5. The Chaserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suspension is both adjustable and durable. 6. The nose box serves as the nerve center, complete with batteries and a solar charge controller.

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AT OVERLAND EQUIPMENT Chaser

Where minimalism meets capability.

first met Mario and Martyn from Adventure Trailers over 14 years ago during a friendly meeting at SEMA to talk about adventure and the overland trailer market—the latter still in its infancy. Both had lived in Africa and traveled the world extensively, and both had a new idea to share: the AT Overland Chaser. From that initial meeting, I ordered a trailer that would ultimately travel with me all the way to the Arctic Ocean in 2007. Chasers have been pulled across the Rubicon Trail and even over the Road of Bones. With simplicity and performance as its cornerstone, the Chaser is rarified in its singularity of purpose: to haul equipment over the most unforgiving terrain imaginable. OVERLAND

Towing the Chaser can best be described as easy, the lightweight and compact dimensions allow it to follow the vehicle over even the most extreme terrain. There was none of the typical noise or burden that comes from heavier offerings. The Max Coupler is essentially silent. With the overall package tucking entirely behind the Tacoma it also imparts minimal wind drag. The soft suspension that excels on the trail does transmit more body roll than some—noticeable during rapid lane change tests and in quick transitions on twisty mountain roads. As we had the trailer configured, it was more than acceptable, but it would be a critical lesson for buyers that wanted to install heavy roof tents or weighty accessories to PROS the Chaser’s optional rack. Compact dimensions and On the trail, the Chaser beexcellent maneuverability Highly capable in technical haved dutifully, tracking behind terrain the Toyota through the cross-axle Quick setup with the Eezichallenges, over logs, extreme Awn tent side slopes and every variant of Large storage volume for the overall size approach and departure obstacle. It was easily the most capable of CONS the tested trailers on technical Narrow track width does not routes, a combination of excelmatch most tow vehicles Higher airbag pressures and lent ground clearance, low overall limit straps reduce suspenweight, and small footprint. The sion compliance narrow track helps in dry, hard Limited integrated camping terrain, but would prove to be a systems limitation in snow, sand, or mud. The Chaser is not as plush as some of the other independent suspension units, the firmer factory airbag setting and limit straps helping with sway, but affecting total active compression

and extension travel on higher-speed mixed surfaces. Overall, the Chaser is highly competent, and with the airbag and independent suspension, it does a good job of allowing for a wide range of loads, while still isolating the most fragile contents from abuse. CAMPING

When it comes to camp systems, AT Overland has always gone for the proven and reliable options, and the Chaser is no exception. There is a 19-gallon water tank located on the tongue that uses a manual pump, and two jerry cans for extra fuel or additional water. The table is truly minimalist: a piece of wood that wedges into the fender. In the tongue box, a single- or dualbattery system can be installed with a solar controller and charging ports for devices. And, if you want to get fancy, a swing-out kitchen can be added to the tailgate which includes a Partner Steel stove. Its brief list of features might seem underwhelming, but what it equates to is an uncomplicated camp experience with a lot of reliability and little fuss—we love it. The Eezi-Awn Globe Tracker tent equipped on our test trailer operated on a similar plane of efficiency. It can be deployed and stored without Herculean efforts, and for the massive amount of space it provides, the setup and breakdown times are shockingly fast. Add its thick mattress into the mix, and it’s easily one of our favorite tents from the test. The main cargo compartment is completely open, with 46 cubic feet of gear-devouring space. This is where your fridge, like the National Luna shown at left, can be installed, and your table, chairs, and other personal items slide in around it. While the straightforward system is appreciated, I don’t like how it tends to bury gear. Even more frustrating, it forces you to access everything by lifting the trailer’s lid, which doesn’t sound like a problem until you’re in camp and the tent is open. Then when you open the lid, something often falls out: your bedding, a forgotten camera, laptop, etcetera. If someone is sleeping in the tent and you realize you have to get an item from the trailer, they’ll need to wake up and exit the tent while you locate your item. We find it difficult to argue with the proven track record of the Chaser. During our extensive experience with it throughout the world, it has always been comfortable, easy to use, and most importantly, has never let us down. What more can you ask for? $25,690 | ADVENTURETRAILERS.COM

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56 1. A pop-up roof and swing-out front bed turn this relatively compact trailer into a true living space. 2. The Conqueror’s military styling is clear, as is its ample departure angle. 3. The UEV-490’s kitchen is sprawling and well equipped for even the largest camp parties. 4. The front berth is spacious, boasts great views, and is in close proximity to the climate control. 5. The dinette and lounge are comfortable but feel far too tactical for our tastes. 6. Off-camber situations posed no problem for this trailer, despite the soft suspension. 7. It’s not as complicated as it looks, we swear. 8. Reliable and comfortable, the UEV’s suspension was one of the best in the test.

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CONQUEROR | EDITOR’S CHOICE: CHRIS CORDES UEV-490 Extreme

Is it cold outside? Let me brew you up a spot of tea from the dinette.

onqueror started over 25 years ago as a maker of military trailers and equipment, with parent company Mega Manufacturers focusing on in-house design and manufacturing for the South African and international markets. Constructed for the harsh environments of Africa and Australia, the intent of these models is clearly for long-distance, remote travel. The consumer products reflect their military heritage and are given the acronym Urban Escape Vehicle (UEV); the corresponding number reflects the length in centimeters. Their UEV-490 is particularly unique, and the one we selected for this test—a live-in and live-around unit—combines the best of camper living with expansive shade and outdoor cooking. It is also one of the few trailers on the market that is designed with abundant interior space, yet is still small and low enough to manage most trail conditions. Thoughtful features are found throughout, and nearly everything is included, down to cups, plates, and utensils. OVERLAND

The Conqueror was a joy to tow on the road, the perception of nimbleness and ease of maneuvering belying its dimensions and weight. Much of this is due to the design of the suspension and the positive, rattle-free connection of the Max Coupler. To say that the suspension is plush would be an understatement— the UEV-490 floats over bumps, bridge expansion joints, and broken asphalt. However, this compliant ride did result in more body roll than desired, but the large diameter Tough Dog shocks did an adequate job of minimizing sway. The brakes are also highly effective on both pavement and trail, with the large surface area of a 12-inch drum. The track width was a perfect match to our Tacoma tow vehicle and would pair nicely with most SUVs like the 4Runner, Grand Cherokee, and Discovery. Unfortunately, the gross vehicle PROS weight (GVW) of 4,000 pounds Plush and durable indepenmakes the 490 too heavy for any dent suspension variant of the Jeep Wrangler. Comes with everything, including the kitchen sink On the trail, the weight of the Large inside living area feels UEV-490 was noticeable, requirlike home ing the most traction control intervention from the Tacoma to CONS Standard awning is nearly clear the cross-axle obstacles. We impossible to set up alone expected the size to be more of a GVWR is 4,000 pounds factor, but it pulled through all of Missing final attention to the erosion and cambered chaldetails and finish lenges our course presented. Even at 29 degrees of side slope, the Conqueror remained stable. The one test the UEV failed to complete was the breakover assessment that resulted in the forward frame section grounding on

the top of the berm. No amount of effort from the Tacoma would pull it through, with all four tires ultimately digging holes. This is not to imply that the Conqueror isn’t suitable for challenging terrain, but the trailer’s drawbar is low and long and will need to be taken into consideration on tracks that include gullies, mounds, ledges, and ravines. While it struggled a bit on the tight technical loop, it was a dream to tow on the backcountry roads of Prescott, Arizona. Again, the suspension glided over erosion cuts, embedded rock, and corrugations. Putting weight aside, it was one of the best trailers overall for towing on dirt roads: the contents were dust and damage free at the end of a long day on the trail. CAMPING

The UEV-490 was easily the largest and most luxurious model in our test. It bridges the gap between compact offpavement trailers and true caravans, with more features than many of the others combined. Within its walls, you’ll find a flat-screen TV, a hot-water shower, air-conditioning and heating, a microwave, tons of outlets, and even a fan system that creates positive pressure in the cabin to prevent dust incursion while driving. The list goes on and on, yet it wasn’t any one of these features that set the Conqueror apart. That honor belongs to its design. You see, unlike most small off-pavement trailers, the UEV490 has enough space for its occupants to stand, move around, and relax. It has a towering insulated roof, a dinette built for four that converts into a bed, a forward fold-out sleeping space, and a small common area between it all. Zippered soft drawers line the inside walls, and large bags may be placed under the bench seats or on the floor. It is a truly livable space from the start, with amenities then added to enhance it. An example is the enormous slide-out kitchen which includes a double-burner stove, dual-zone fridge, and faucet with hot and cold water. There are even plates, bowls, and cups designed specifically to nest in the kitchen drawers without rattling—a nice touch. Unfortunately, the awnings weren’t quite as easy to use. Our test unit had the standard canvas model, and I found it to be incredibly difficult to work with. They do offer a Bundutec rapid deploy option, but we didn’t have the chance to test one. My only other criticism is related to the fit and finish: the design is phenomenal, but the execution is lacking. Metal shavings were still present in some places, edges weren’t filed, and I couldn’t help but feel that the military vibe clashed with the luxurious amenities it boasted. Still, if you’re looking for a trailer that can go nearly anywhere in the world while delivering the comforts of home, the UEV-490 is hard to beat. $61,815 | CONQUEROR4X4USA.COM OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

1. The Off Grid is a larger trailer, but the massive tires and generous ground clearance create a balanced look. 2. There are top-shelf Dometic kitchen components throughout. 3. Everything is easy to set up and put into service. 4. The sleeping area was one of the most comfortable in the test. 5. A propane shower is a nice touch and is easy to access. 6. Despite the slightly larger size, the Off Grid was flawless on the trail. 7. A well-organized and extensive wiring system powers all of the accessories. 8. The insulation is a welcome addition but looks unfinished. This test unit did not have brakes, but they should have been included given the curb weight.

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OFF GRID TRAILERS | EDITOR’S CHOICE: SCOTT BRADY Expedition

The escape pod with 35-inch tires.

he only Canadian-built trailer in the test, the Expedition went after the sweet spot of the overland market by combining a sleep-in and camp-around design with durability and off-highway performance. It’s certainly a developing trend, and for good reason, as it integrates to many of the approaches that travelers need and cannot easily incorporate into just the tow vehicle. The company was started by Mark Badgerow a few years ago and is one of the youngest inclusions to this test. Off Grid’s evolution is not unlike many others, with an active innovation cycle and continuous improvements in both materials and construction methods. Most notable is their shift from using wood cabinetry and shell materials to lightweight and durable aluminum. Their approach also reflects the environment they live in: the sleeping area is fully insulated, and there is a Propex propane heater option. All of this effort resulted in an impressively low curb weight at 2,200 pounds, including all options as shown and 35-inch tires. OVERLAND

The lightweight and stable Timbren Axle-Less suspension results in a trailer that is easy to tow and boasts the secondlargest overall interior volume, while fitting the largest tires in the evaluation. Despite the overall size, it pulls well on the highway, and this capability would further improve if the roof tent wasn’t specified. My one major concern was the lack of trailer brakes, a shocking omission given the 2,200-pound curb weight. This is a safety issue and also eliminates several useful trail techniques to help manage a PROS trailer in tight obstacles. Despite my Tows well, both on and major gripe, the Off Grid did track off pavement straight and remained stable and Comfortable living space Innovative design and predictable on all of the surfaces we quality features evaluated. When the going got rough, the CONS Off Grid was impressive. Again, the No trailer brakes Sprayed insulation will Timbren suspension nearly matched trap water and looks the performance of some of the lonunfinished ger-travel independent models, and Less interior space than the massive 35-inch tires swallowed expected every gully, rock, and root we tossed at it. The approach and departure angle are well matched to the overall dimensions, and the angle of the rear storage box kept the body from ever making contact with terra firma. The rear is

also protected by a full-width bumper, and the fenders are made from oversized tubing that connects to the frame. The safety chain connection point is lower than it needs to be and would be the first thing to hit on the drawbar. This is not a small trailer, but it towed easily on the technical course. For the corrugated road, the suspension did not equal that of the Patriot or Conqueror, but it did not bounce around much either. The Expedition provides serious shelter in a trailer suitable for technical trails and long-distance hauls. CAMPING

The Expedition comes equipped with an array of accessories designed to make your experience as enjoyable as possible. That all starts with a good night’s rest, which you’ll find on the generously sized, high-density foam mattress. There are convenient shelves for storing your phone and sundries nearby, as well as charging ports. If you decide you can’t sleep, you could always watch the flat-screen TV which is powered by two deep cycle batteries housed in the forward compartment. Storage is abundant and largely contained within the rear hatch and two large interior compartments. The aft storage area is split into halves, with three shelves per side, allowing you to separate and organize your gear. The two interior drawers are perfect for clothes, computers, and other personal effects, but there is one major flaw: the lids open upward, and there are no struts or locks to hold them open. This forces you to hold them with one hand, and search in the dark cabinet with the other. The kitchen in the Off Grid is both clever and practical. It drops out of a tall and slim compartment on the side, revealing a dual-burner stove, sink, and faucet ready to go. All you have to do is plug in the quick-connect fittings. The Dometic fridge is on a slide and located directly behind the cooking area in the forward compartment for easy access. After spending time with the Off Grid, I found plenty of things I loved and few things I didn’t. The spray-on insulation beneath the trailer looked a little sloppy, and there was some silicone caulking that could have been neater, but none of that really mattered. At the end of the day, the Expedition was comfortable, quick to set up, and straightforward to use—a clear winner in my book. $26,200 | OFFGRIDTRAILERS.CA

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1. Sometimes big things really do come in small packages. 2. The Patriotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main storage space is just roomy enough to fit what you need, without being so large that it becomes disorganized. 3. When fully deployed, the X1 looks more like a tent city than a trailer. 4. Although it takes a little while to set up, the adda-room is perfect for families and couples traveling together. 5. With a swing-out grill, you can actually throw another shrimp on the barbie. 6. Unsurprisingly, the X1 breezed through our technical course. 7. Of all the trailers we tested, the Patriot had the best mattress by far. 8. With dual shocks, an A-arm suspension system, and a self-contained air-ride package, the X1 had the best suspension of the test.

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PATRIOT CAMPERS | OVERALL WINNER X1 Tourer

The ultimate base camp, with the suspension to get you there.

f I could choose one word to describe Patriot Campers, it would be exciting. Between their high-energy and muchloved CEO Justin Montesalvo to their Super Tourer Land Cruisers, this rapidly growing company has taken the market by storm. Their success is not just about show, but building quality trailers that are manufactured with a high degree of precision and innovation. Relatively young at four years, the Australianowned-and-made product has won the respected Camper Trailer Australia magazine Trailer of the Year Award for four years in a row. In early 2018, I had the opportunity to tour Patriot’s facility in Australia and saw firsthand the attention to detail of the production process. Their assembly line looks reminiscent of an automotive plant: large sheet metal presses and stamping machines were complemented by laser cutters and welders. The brand’s quality is also born from necessity, as there are few travel conditions in the world as rough as the Australian Outback, where extreme corrosion and endless corrugations demand durability above all else. OVERLAND

The Patriot camper starts with the right foundation, focusing on the performance and durability of the suspension. The robust independent A-arm design is produced in cooperation with Cruisemaster and includes a long-travel airbag and twin 35mm shock absorbers on each side. There are even thoughtful considerations like an integrated jacking point on the A-arm to help locate and stabilize the lift point while changing a tire. During our testing, the X1’s suspension was the cornerstone of the road and trail towing effecPROS tiveness, remaining stable at high Class-leading attention speeds, but still compliant over to detail, fit, and finish rocks and ruts. The Tourer is lightBest suspension in the test Expansive camping area er than expected given the amenionce deployed ties, coming in at just over 2,400 pounds, which made it the true CONS middleweight of the test. This also Full tent setup takes substantial time facilitated towing ease, compleDifficult to set up alone mented by the large drum brakes Expensive for a tented that helped stop the train. trailer In the backcountry, the Patriot is at home; it effortlessly completed all of our trail tests and asked for more. What made the X1 stand out was its performance in both the technical loop and on the open, corrugated

fire roads. In challenging terrain, the compact dimensions, modest weight, and generous ground clearance allowed us to push the limits of approach, departure, and side slope capability. The only unprotected body panels are the replaceable corner bottle trays. The unique DO35 coupler allows for full off-highway angles in uneven terrain, but it is also easy to attach with a selfcentering pin. For the dirt roads, the plush suspension soaked up everything the Toyota did and showed no sign of bottoming or topping out over wallows and berms. It was settled and confidence inspiring, exactly how a suspension should perform in those conditions. CAMPING

When it comes to setting up your base camp, you’ll find that the X1 is second to none in quality and execution. Just take a look at the armature on their grill or the frame of the bed, and you’ll begin to understand. Each component has been completely overbuilt, yet engineered to be manageable through leverage or gas struts. For example, raising and lowering the awning bracket on other trailers can be a chore, even backbreaking, but the X1’s armatures move skyward with a gentle, strutassisted nudge. Leveling the trailer for camping is a cinch, using the built-in compressor and airbags to adjust the ride height at the flip of a switch. This is not only useful while driving, but when parked on a hill in camp. The stove, sink, fridge, and prep table are built onto heavyduty slides and are 100 percent ready to use the moment you pull them out. There are gauges that monitor water levels in the tanks, the drawers and cargo compartment are lined with soft materials to prevent harsh impacts and rattles, and the stereo and electronics are easy to operate. Then there’s the sleeping situation. The CS3 QuickPitch integrated tent sets up quickly and easily in its basic configuration and provides loads of space to move around in or to set up living quarters. It has a spring mattress, and very little to complain about. That is unless you decide to assemble the entire canvas city provided with the X1. For that, you’ll be wrestling with an awning, an add-a-room, and the burning question of why you bought a trailer if you still have to set up a massive tent anyway. Fortunately, you can leave that part at home and enjoy this marvelous Tourer as is with ample room for four. $40,990 | PATRIOTCAMPERS.COM.AU

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1. Rugged and compact, it is impressive how much the Turtleback bundles into this package. 2. Using the Partner Steel stove and Dometic sink feels just like cooking at homeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;maybe even better. 3. The fold-out kitchen is enormous, so we hope you like cooking. 4. The compartmentalized storage spaces, excellent fit and finish, and nice touches like the safe set the Turtleback apart. 5. If you like organization, this is the trailer for you. 6. With the new A-arm suspension and 35-inch tires, the Turtleback made quick work of our course, though off-camber angles were a concern due to the higher center of gravity. 7. A clean and simple battery box sets the tone for the best practice electrical system and wiring throughout the trailer. 8. The coilspring and Icon shock combination is leaps and bounds ahead of the previous suspension system.

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TURTLEBACK TRAILERS Expedition

Quality and innovation, at a serious value.

he entire focus of Turtleback and company owner Dave Munsterman is building trailers. They do not produce anything else, and they keep side projects to a minimum, which has allowed the company to become one of the highest-volume, most-respected brands in the North American market. This singularity of attention is also evident in their 11,000-square-foot facility and their products. The manufacturing plant is complete with dedicated assembly lines, overhead cranes to improve efficiency, and proprietary machinery that ensures consistency and quality of construction. Dave’s story is not unlike many represented here: with a background in the RV industry and a passion for the outdoors and off-road racing, his formative years were spent learning how to build things that last and endure the abuse of the Desert Southwest and Baja. Turtleback is the classic tortoise story, one of steady plodding and a laser focus. Their strategy has paid off, with Dave and his team on track to produce 120 trailers in 2018—focused indeed. OVERLAND

Towing the Turtleback on pavement was a pleasant enough process, checking all the right boxes of stability, low noise, and track width. The weight of the trailer is on the heavier side, and the center of gravity (COG) was higher than most in the test, so sway was noticeable, particularly during quicker transitions on curvy mountain roads. The brakes were effective and smooth to engage. One notable evolution with the Expedition is the newly available independent, coil-sprung suspension. What it lacks in adjustability (without airPROS bags), it makes up for in reliability Quality components and and overall wheel travel. Customconstruction throughout valved, remote reservoir Icon Aft galley is beautifully shocks control damping. The Hymade and highly useful Extremely competent and perco coils can be moved to three durable off pavement different positions depending on the load and desired ride height. CONS On the technical terrain course, Limited storage for the overall size the Turtleback made easy work of Brakes would not manually every obstacle, including a recently lock offroad felled tree that blocked the entry Trailer best equipped with to the cross-axle gully. The 35a hard-shell tent inch tires and compact dimensions made it one of the most capable in the test, and there are no body panels unprotected from rock impacts. The one concern in the technical section is COG; the trailer is not only tall, but both

the water (380 pounds) and fuel storage (25 pounds) are above the frame and upright. This was noticeable in the camber testing (30-degree side slope), where the trailer completed the test, but the uphill tire could be pushed off the ground. For the dirt road testing, the Turtleback was compliant and competent, showing no hard bottoming and minimal chatter or drifting over corrugations. The suspension is a big improvement over the Dexter axles used on previous Turtleback test units, greatly increasing the chance that the eggs and beer arrive in one piece at camp. CAMPING

The core of most off-pavement trailers is one gigantic compartment for your gear. In theory, this is the most space efficient way to do things, but it can drive you nuts when all you want to do is pull over to make a cup of coffee, except your stove is buried under a pile of stuff. That’s where the Turtleback comes in. Their Expedition is a purpose-built blend of cargo and touring trailer, designed to make life on the road a snap. Its 50 cubic feet of storage has been carefully compartmentalized, giving you organized access to whatever you need quickly. The main hold is perfect for large items like chairs and bags of clothes, while the side boxes are useful for quick-access items like a medical kit. In the oversized tongue box, you’ll find a masterfully laid-out electrical system with dual batteries, an inverter, and loads of extra room for things like wheel chocks. The most impressive section is the rear cargo compartment though. That’s where you’ll find the rather extensive kitchen, comprised of two fold-down side tables, a main stove and sink slide, and two enormous drawers with built-in dividers. Together, they provide enough space for all of your small items, personal effects, toiletries, and, of course, cookware, with one glaring exception: a fridge. One can be added of course, but at the loss of space in the main cargo compartment. I found the 23 Zero tent equipped on our test trailer to be both comfortable and spacious, but I prefer hard-shell tents since they dramatically reduce setup and breakdown time. By the end of our evaluation, there were plenty of things I liked about the Expedition, but the one that set it apart was the attention to detail. Their finish out is perfect, components are top notch, and best practice implementation is always used. They even go above and beyond by providing a full manual, covering everything down to the wiring diagrams. Turtleback has become a top contender. $36,900 | TURTLEBACKTRAILERS.COM

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1. Although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the lightest trailers tested, the Vintage was surprisingly wide on the trail. 2. The interior of this trailer is undeniably classic and comfortable. 3. Sometimes the most simple equipment is also the most enjoyable. 4. You could rinse off with the road shower, or simply bathe in this trailerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retro glory. 5. An access hatch and locking rear-locking compartment provide plenty of secure storage. 6. We loved the classic look, but we could live with a more modern suspension.

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VINTAGE OVERLAND T.E. Lawrence

If Steve McQueen had a trailer…

first met Britton Purser of Vintage Overland in a dusty parking lot outside of Bluff, Utah, his family in tow and all smiles to loan me their teardrop. We talked adventure motorcycles, design, and Land Rovers as the sun baked the six of us. His enthusiasm for handcrafted items and classic style is not only evident in his personality, but in the trailers that he and his brothers produce in Grand Junction, Colorado. Bespoke manufacturing is a phrase often tossed around by guys in cheap suits with Cockney accents, but Britton lives it. The Vintage Overland trailer is admittedly different than the others tested; with an emphasis on simplicity and classic styling, it lacks the massive tires and long-travel suspensions of its competitors. But what it does have is longevity, never looking dated or like last year’s model. It also exudes quality, with many of the woodworking and metal processes cut and finished by hand. With the growing popularity of using older vehicles for travel (like a Range Rover Classic or Land Cruiser 70 Series), why not put a trailer in tow that looks right at home? OVERLAND

On the road, the T.E. Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia) is a pleasure to pull; its 1,180-pound curb weight hardly noticeable behind the Tacoma or G-Wagen. The shape is also slippery to the wind and makes a noticeable improvement to fuel economy over more boxy trailers. With the wider track and stiff Dexter torsion axle, the trailer handled well, although it was a bit busy over rough pavement. The lightweight and negligible suspension travel encourage any abrupt bump or wallow to send the trailer airborne (though not very high). When towing on steep mountain roads, I noticed the lack of brakes; they are a strong recommendation for any trailer that is PROS more than 1,000 pounds, particuBuilt to look good and last larly when towed by a vehicle that a lifetime is already approaching GVWR. No setup or breakdown time Road trips with the Vintage Comfortable mattress and quiet interior Overland are fun, as almost every Excellent weather resistance vehicle that passes gives a wave, thumbs-up, or points a camera (or CONS cell phone) at it out the window. The Dexter axle suspension is not suitable for most For the dirt, things got a little dirt conditions more challenging for the teardrop, Significant beaming effect the lack of wheel travel causing in the frame both on and the T.E. Lawrence to buck and off pavement Needs tie-downs for cargo bounce wildly at anything over crawling speed. Even typical dirt roads were abusive, rattling anything beyond soft luggage. To its credit, nothing on the trailer failed, and it looked no worse for wear, but it is a serious limitation to speed-mixed terrain.

For the technical trail segment, the Vintage Overland did hold its own, with reasonable ground clearance, a wide track, as well as being the lightest unit in the test. It completed all of the cross-axle challenges without damage and traction control intervention by the tow vehicle was limited. For the trail section, I wished the T.E. Lawrence had a more compliant suspension to help insulate the trailer and contents. We also noted that the forward section of the frame needed either more tubes or thicker wall tubing to better manage a (visibly) noticeable beaming effect. We’d also like to see brakes available as an option and 7.5R16 wheels and tires for additional clearance. CAMPING

Stylish, classic, comfortable, timeless—these are just a few words I’d use to describe the Vintage Overland trailer. It’s a return to simpler times, when you didn’t need a stereo and a high-powered blender to go camping. Back then, a fire was your social media, the stars your auxiliary lights, and a teardrop trailer your vessel of escape. Like the classics that inspired it, the T.E. Lawrence has no elaborate tent structures to set up, no complex electrical systems to work, and no intricate accessory systems to go awry. Some might see this as sparse to a ridiculous degree, but by removing all of the complexities, you’re not worried about the fridge draining your battery, the water heater running out of propane, or a troublesome electrical fault that you can’t seem to track down. Your sole focus is the trip, your family, and your surroundings, which is how it should be. Of course, this intentional reduction in amenities doesn’t mean the trailer is uncomfortable. Our test unit came equipped with a solar-heated road shower for rinsing off and an ARB awning for shade from the scorching sun. Inside, you’ll find a queen-size memory foam mattress to sprawl out on and small storage shelves for your book, glasses, and other treasures. LED lights sip power from a portable Goal Zero power source in the rear of the trailer, which can also power most of your devices, although it must be moved into the vehicle for charging. A fair amount of storage can be found throughout: from a small rack in the front to hold wood to space for your cooler, kitchen supplies, and a stove in the locking rear hatch. The foot of the bed contains additional room for cargo and can be accessed through a flush hatch in the boot. Unfortunately, there are no tie-down points in any of these areas, so items are free to slide and bounce around at will. All in all, I love the spartan appeal of the Vintage Overland, as well as its retro looks, but I feel like the lack of amenities is mismatched with its price. $18,500 | VINTAGEOVERLAND.COM

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1. On technical terrain, it’s clear that the XV2 is in its element. 2. Although it’s a little low, the XVenture’s kitchen space is plentiful and useful. 3. The Alu-Cab awning was our favorite from the test, and really rounded out the XV2’s camp setup. 4. The XVenture has high clearance, is boxy, and rugged. Sounds like a vintage 4WD—no wonder we love it. 5. This XV2 was running a Timbren Axle-Less suspension, and it continuously surprised us with excellent performance. 6. The battery box is tight, but well laid out and executed.

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SCHUTT INDUSTRIES XVenture XV2

The do-it-all trailer that looks at home behind an M1 tank.

chutt Industries has a long history of producing extreme-duty cargo handling equipment for every branch of the US military, their trailers in use behind Humvees and medium-duty transport trucks. This built-to-purpose philosophy has extended to their consumer line of overland models. Their construction methods are unique, employing the use of an aluminum structure and Alcoa’s HuckBolt fasteners instead of welding. These bolts have a 5,000-pound sheer strength and do a better job of retaining critical coatings and ensuring repairability of every panel and chassis member. The team at Schutt has also done an excellent job of learning from and listening to the overland community. They have fitted proven accessories and made improvements based on feedback from our team and their customers. Their trailers are some of the most useful in the industry, working as a utility item for domestic duties, and a full-blown adventure platform for an overland trip around the world. Their trailers have been used on respected expeditions, like XOverland’s journey to the tip of South America. OVERLAND

If there were any trailer built to survive any calamity, it would be the XVenture, born out of the conditions of combat in some of the most rugged environments on the planet. The XV2 is all about versatility, which is something often lacking in other offerings. We owned an XVenture for years and used it for everything from hauling yard waste to moving appliances to hauling motorcycles to multi-day backcountry forays. With their new option of the Timbren Axle-Less suspension, gone are the dramatic “air shows” where the trailer would launch off of railroad crossings and potholes. The standard suspension is quite durable but can be destrucPROS tive to anything contained withHas the most utility in the test in the trailer. Towing on paveQuality construction Extreme durability with ment is a pleasure with the new quality materials Timbren swing arm system, and Excellent electric brakes it is complemented by strong and manual parking brake brakes, a wide track width, and a CONS low center of gravity. Timbren suspension not set In the dirt, the XVenture inproperly (camber) spired confidence when towing Time consuming to deploy in the technical obstacles, with a kitchen Heavy given compact perfect 63-inch track width foldimensions lowing exactly in line with the Track width is wider than Tacoma. The ground clearance is most typical tow vehicles generous, and the extremely low COG made the XV2 yawn at any side slope we dared expose it to. The entire perimeter is protected from damage by a massive frame which extends beyond the body to match the width

of the fenders, making for excellent stone guards and a perfect perch to access the rack. On the higher-speed dirt, the XVenture needed additional weight in the storage area to get full compliance from the suspension, so it was rougher than some of the others. The rack also rattled from time to time, the downside of it being height adjustable. One final note is that the Timbren suspension on our test unit was the first installed on an XVenture and its availability is undetermined. We also noted that the camber was not set properly, which would influence (negatively) some high-speed handling characteristics. CAMPING

If I could give an award to a company for the most significant improvement in execution, it would be XVenture. They spent the past few years honing their existing designs, and I’m happy to report that it has paid off in spades. Their latest generation has all of the luxuries you’d find in the original but wrapped in a package that is simpler, smoother, and easier to use than ever before. The kitchen still utilizes a metal table which slides into the side of the trailer, but it is now stored beneath the roof rack instead of inside the front of the trailer. The faucet drops into place with the same quick-connect fittings we loved before, but a new and more powerful stove has been added. Unfortunately, the 50-quart ARB fridge is still mounted inside the confined nose box, which will result in increased draw and decreased compressor life due to poor ventilation. The electrical system has also had a major overhaul. Gone are the Goal Zero Yetis and daisy-chained cables. They’ve been replaced with dual Odyssey batteries and a Zamp solar controller which provide a much more efficient and effective source of power in camp. The storage space is cavernous with 58 cubic feet of room for cargo under a removable tonneau cover and a whopping 2,300-pound payload, making it equally well suited to hauling your family’s camp gear or construction supplies and dirt bikes. All you have to do is raise or lower the tent rack to suit your needs, which no longer breaks your back thanks to their recent addition of hydraulic struts. The James Baroud tent on our XV2 was both quick to set up and comfortable, and the Alu-Cab awning was a huge improvement over the original Foxwing. Overall, the XVenture delivers a ton of features with a relatively low setup time. It’s one of the most versatile trailers in the test for hauling gear and toys, but if you’re only looking for an overland trailer, the lack of compartmentalized storage may be a deal breaker. $23,650 | SCHUTTINDUSTRIES.COM

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CONCLUSIONS Trailers are a useful tool for the adventure traveler, providing additional space and creature comforts in a tow-behind package. However, some uses of trailers can cause more complications than they solve, so it is crucial for the buyer to consider their most critical demands against the potential downsides. In particular, avoid buying a trailer if the same solutions can be achieved with the vehicle alone. Simplicity is the key, but there really is only so much storage volume in a Defender 90, so the family of four might very well need a trailer to go camping for the weekend. In 2007, I made a trip to the Arctic Ocean with three big guys in a small Tacoma. Between all of the cold weather gear and filming equipment, we absolutely needed the Chaser we had in tow. For this test, we made an effort to represent a broad spectrum of manufacturers and styles which revealed the distinct benefits of each model. We also incorporated an evaluation course and repeatable testing criteria that we can use DEMANDS VERSUS for future tests to maintain consistency. Our subjective observations also reflect DOWNSIDES Some uses of trailers our bias as users. For example, after can cause more having used trailers for so many years, complications than they both Chris and I feel strongly about the solve, so it is crucial for advantage of being able to sleep inside the buyer to consider something we are towing and investing their most critical demands against the in. It allows the trailer to provide comfort potential downsides. and convenience that the standard SUV alone cannot. After weeks of testing and data compiling, the objective winner was clear, but each unit did exhibit a compelling attribute. For example, the XVenture provides the greatest utility but lacks amenities. The Turtleback is highly capable in technical terrain and is packed with true expedition support features like 46 gallons of water and durable, independent suspension, but it lacked sufficient storage, and the tent is nearly the same height as on the top of a vehicle, affecting ease of setup and center of gravity. The AT Overland Chaser is the technical terrain king and has a high storage volume for the overall dimensions, but it lacks the comforts of competitive offerings. The Vintage Overland is the style winner by a wide margin, but it is a soft-roader at best and would need a more robust drawbar and suspension to survive prolonged backcountry use. Which leaves us with the Conqueror UEV-490, Off Grid Expedition, and Patriot X1; all were either awarded our Editor’s Choice Award or was the overall scoring winner of the review. But how can a trailer win the test and not receive our Editor’s Choice Award? The Editor’s Choice Award has always been the product that not only scores well but is the product the editor would buy; it is their favorite solution which reflects all of their needs. In most of our tests, the objective winner is also the subjective winner, but not always. EDITOR’S CHOICE, SCOTT BRADY It came down to the Patriot and the Off Grid. The Patriot X1 is the most refined solution of the test, with exceptional attention to detail and manufacturing quality along with the best suspension in the evaluation. The Patriot also handily won our objective testing, combining high scores in most categories and winning or tying in 4 OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

of the 10 categories. It was the empirical champion, but it fell short in a few areas I find essential: principally, the ability to sleep inside the shell. If I am going to tow a trailer, I want it to provide fourseason shelter and allow camping on any surface condition, even in the middle of a muddy or rocky track. Sleeping inside a hard-sided trailer provides noise isolation and insulation a tent simply cannot deliver. These teardrop-style units also allow for instant camp setup, as the bed is left made, and it only takes opening the door to be moments from slumber. So for me, the Off Grid Expedition wins, as it fared well in all categories and provided the most convenient and insulated sleeping experience. It was not quite as comfortable as the Conqueror, but it was far more capable in technical terrain and lighter to tow. It has well-placed storage throughout, including inside cabinets that allow keeping clothing and gear in the sleeping space. The kitchen folds down quickly and includes a high-quality Dometic sink and stove. While the Off Grid is ideal for my needs, it is not without a few faults. The sprayed-on insulation is a nice idea, but it looks unfinished and will trap moisture, causing corrosion. The roof tent would have to go, as it only makes sense for a family with kids. The Timbren suspension is adequate, but I would want a system with shock damping and longer travel to endure the kinds of roads I travel. Fortunately, brakes are an option but were sadly missing on our test unit. In the end, every trailer is a compromise in some fashion, but the Off Grid was my best choice. EDITOR’S CHOICE, CHRIS CORDES Choosing just one of these trailers for this award was extremely difficult. I found myself attracted to so many of them, but in the end, the Conqueror UEV-490 received my vote. The suspension was shockingly good on corrugated dirt roads and embedded rocks, which is what we encounter during the bulk of our overland travels. Its road manners were excellent as well, and it didn’t feel much heavier than trailers like the XV2. I’ll be frank and say that setting up the standard awning is an abysmal experience, and deploying the front fold-out bed isn’t exactly a blast either. As someone who tends to move camp locations frequently, I don’t like to mess with anything that takes more than a minute or two to deploy, and these certainly did. I also wasn’t blown away by the fit and finish of some interior components. What sold me on the Conqueror? The livability. No other trailer in our test truly provides an enclosed space in which to work, move, and relax, regardless of conditions. If it’s pouring rain or snowing you can turn on the heat, sip coffee at your kitchen table, and play a board game with friends. If you find yourself driving late into the night, it’s easy to pull off at a truck stop and go to bed, no tent setup required. If you strip away all the showers, stereos, and kitchens, most offpavement trailers become a cargo box and a tent, but the UEV-490 is so much more. It’s a home on the road, a private oasis capable of following you to the farthest reaches of the globe, and it has proven its mettle on trails from the Americas to Africa. I can’t think of a better trailer to tow around the world than that.

OVERALL WINNER: PATRIOT CAMPERS’ X1 The goal of this Overland Trailer test was to weight objectivity and repeatability over subjectivity and personal bias. We are all biased, but in a test like this, it is the data and category assessments that allow a traveler to make the best decision. For this, Patriot’s X1 is the clear winner, combining world-class quality and durability with unmatched on-pavement and off-pavement towing performance. It also provides the widest range of camping options: a sub-10-minute base setup to a literal Taj Mahal of canvas that would sleep six. The attention to detail is overwhelming, from a mechanical parking brake

to a swing-out barbecue. The suspension levels with two switches and they even provide visual leveling and ride-height indicators. The X1 exudes durability, its roots set in the remote tracks of the Australian Outback. The Patriot is the perfect choice for a family, or for travelers with smaller SUVs and a lot of gear. It is also the ideal basecamp in the Desert Southwest, equipped with all the comforts of home, even a ladder to the “second story” loft, complete with a spring mattress. It is the deserving champion, ready to follow your favorite adventure vehicle to points unknown.

TRAILER COMPARISON MANUFACTURER

AT OVERLAND

CONQUEROR

OFF GRID

PATRIOT

TURTLEBACK

VINTAGE

SCHUTT

Model

Chaser

UEV-490

Expedition

T.E. Lawrence

XV2

MSRP base

$8,823

$49,535

$23,900

$36,990

$25,495

$16,900

$15,495

MSRP as tested

$25,690

$61,815

$26,200

$40,990

$36,900

$18,500

$23,650

Quick set-up time (minutes)

6:38

Immediate

7:34

7:17

Immediate

1:55

Full set-up time (minutes)

7:48

20:16

7:36

34:47

12:28

4:48

13:40

Curb weight as tested (pounds)

1,860

3,861

2,219

2,420

2,639

1,180

2,840

Length (inches)

141

200

171

132

156

149

155.5

Width (inches)

83.8

86.5

78 (track width)

Height (inches)

86.7

73 + tent (varies)

Adjustable

OVERLAND RATINGS* Quality of construction

Durability

Capacity

Capability (overland)

Capability (technical terrain)

Ease of towing (on road)

Ease of setup

Overall comfort

Value

Total score

122

116

129

119

116

* Scores are out of 20 possible points.

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Lati tude Portfolio by Ashton Ray Hansen 40Â°N

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

Dr. Livingstone, I Presume? A familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey of self-discovery to Malawi. By Graeme Bell

iny Malawi is a landlocked country, 30 percent of which lies submerged under the waters of Lake Malawi, the inland freshwater sea which also laps at the shores of Tanzania and Mozambique. An earlier visitor, the legendary missionary, scientific explorer, and abolitionist Dr. David Livingstone, would surely not recognize modern Malawi, though much of the nation has retained its rural, wild beauty. Progress has arrived and is slowly transforming the landscape and the wonderful, friendly, Chichewa- and English-speaking people. They call it the warm heart of Africa, and we loved her so much that we seriously considered calling Malawi home. Our first journey into the country came in the middle of an arduous overland journey from Cape Town, along the east coast of South Africa and Mozambique, to Kenya. Mozam-

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Clockwise from top left: A Malawian downpour. Luisa, Jessica, and Keelan negotiate the purchase of a fish, or a hat, or a duck, or a wooden Land Rover. Your friendly barman, courtesy of Fat Monkeys. Paradise. Opening page: Fat Monkeys, Cape Maclear, Malawi.

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bique had been beautiful but hard work. We were in need of a break from the challenges presented by frail Chinese tarmac and the tropical rainstorms which had eroded the thin bitumen to the point that it was often necessary to drive on the dirt verge beside the road. I had fallen ill in Mozambique and had spent two weeks losing fluids and 30 pounds. Luisa, my determined and courageous wife, drove while a hammer assaulted my head and Portuguese-speaking bacteria ravished my organs. Upon arriving in Blantyre, the second largest city in Malawi, a silly doctor prescribed insufficient antibiotics for my big body. I had the distinct impression that he had not taken to me, perhaps because I was a “wealthy” white South African or, more likely, because I was grumpy and unimpressed with the modern but cockroachinfested hospital. After a noisy night in a festive youth hostel, the Land Rover carried us to the lake, Cape Maclear, and a camp called Fat Monkeys. I slept in the rooftop tent for three days, and when I eventually woke, I found myself in paradise. Luisa had parked the Defender on the beach 2 meters from the water’s edge under the shade of a massive ash tree. Locals carrying large catfish and chatting in Chichewa strolled along the beach. Kingfishers perched in trees and scanned the still water for small fish while fish eagles soared in circles above an island less than half a mile offshore. The owners of the camp knew what travelers wanted, and they served it ice cold from the palm-fringed bar or hot from the well-stocked kitchen. Their children and ours (Keelan, who was 10 years old, and Jessica, who was 5) swam in the lake from sunrise to sunset, unperturbed by the constant threat of large crocodiles which were known to patrol the shore. “Don’t worry, your kids will be fine; the crocs only eat the village children.” Cold comfort. We gave the children an inflatable mattress to float on, hoping they would spend at least 50 percent less time in the water where bilharzia-carrying flatworms breed inside water snails. If the crocs don’t get you and the flatworms don’t set up camp in your urinary tract, malaria-bearing mosquitoes might snack on you. Paradise. At night, a motorboat would tow a train of dugout canoes to “there where you can’t see anymore.” Each canoe had a plank nailed to her nose, and each plank bore four or five paraffin lanterns which flickered in the dark, attracting fish from the cool depths. Viewed from the shore, the flickering lights on the horizon competed with the stars, moon, and the silhouettes of islands to create the most serene and splendid backdrop to a night of skinny dipping, campfires, and laughter. As a treatment for the last vestiges of my illness, I prescribed myself a soft seat at the bar with my feet in the sand, a cold Carlsberg beer in my hand, overseeing the Norwegian girls suntanning on the beach. The beer cost 50 cents USD and a fresh fish lunch for a family of four a ludicrous $10. After two weeks of exploring, snorkeling, relaxing, and socializing Luisa packed the Landy and extracted me from the bar with a crowbar. A Norwegian girl had misunderstood my joke that as an Afri-

can man, I should have at least two wives (I am born and bred South African; our president has six wives and is once widowed, twice divorced). The bubbly blonde was submitting her application and Luisa, being typically unreasonable, flatly refused the submission without considering the advantages to us both. She then packed her traditionally Western, culturally Christian family into the Land Rover and navigated our way to Kilimanjaro, then the majestic Serengeti, before returning us to Malawi once she was positive that the Norwegians had all boarded their flight home. Three months later we returned home to Cape Town via Zambia and Namibia to dreams and longing for real Africa. Of the eight Southern and East African countries we had toured, Malawi had been the most memorable—we had been comfortable with the people and had felt reViewed from the shore, laxed and safe whether in the city or the flickering lights on the at the lake. Cape Maclear had been horizon competed with exactly what we had been searchthe stars, moon, and the ing for when we had left home in silhouettes of islands to our overloaded Defender with vicreate the most serene sions of exotic places and interestand splendid backdrop to ing people. But, we found more than a night of skinny dipping, mere adventure, we had also found campfires, and laughter. ourselves—the people we believed ourselves to be as we toiled behind a desk satisfying the demands of an insatiable modern society. After the challenges of driving through Mozambique, and the intensity of the illness I had contracted there, Luisa and I had proven to ourselves that we were tough enough to explore Africa on her own terms. And that confidence born of adversity had instilled in us a calm we had lost many years before. Our children had made true friends and spent their days either swimming in the lake or joining their young friends and a Dutch tutor to school under the supervision of a rescued baby vervet monkey. We had all fallen deeply in love with the warm heart. Our memories became dreams as the real world reminded us of the paradise we had found and lost; it was merely a matter of time before Luisa and I sat down to plan our return. A long year later we packed the Land Rover, rescued the children from school, and again headed toward Mozambique and sweet Malawi. We planned to drive back roads and tracks through Mozambique to avoid the pathetic, crumbling Chinese tar. It took a week to drive from the Western Province in South Africa to Central Mozambique. Cape Maclear was our destination, and we were determined to reach that pleasant shore. We arrived at the Shire River ferry crossing late in the afternoon but were lucky enough to be joined by the future president of the Quelimane municipality, Manuel de Araújo, an unassuming young man driving a modest pickup; he convinced the ferry operator to make one last trip as the sun set. Together with our new friend, we disembarked in the dark onto a wet and muddy bank and drove goat tracks past unlit villages until we reached a small, rowdy town which was celebrating Independence Day. We fool-

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A Maasai and the Land Rover in Tanzania.

ishly turned down Manuel’s invitation to join the celebration and continued driving the unlit goat tracks toward the southern Malawi border crossing, low on fuel and with faulty headlights. A young and friendly border guard named Charles greeted us as we arrived at the border boom gate. He politely refused to let us enter the country while drunk locals came and went, lifting the boom and driving through at will. A horribly inebriated and belligerent man spent a few hours trying to intimidate my family, inspecting my vehicle parked in no man’s land, next to a pile of trash until eventually, unwisely, I withdrew my arm to deliver a knockout punch. Charles jumped up, “Sir, let me introduce you to Thomas, the customs official.” My fist opened, and instead of delivering sudden sleep it was forced into a long and sweaty handshake. Thomas eventually retreated to the steps of the tiny immigration building where he sat and sharpened a large knife while muttering away. The next morning, Thomas had no recollection of the night before and introduced himself with exaggerated warmth, “Assalaam-alaikum.” “Wa-alaikum-salaam,” I replied. He asked for a $100 customs “fee,” and I gave him $5. We happily left that terrible border, drove to the nearest gas station, and cheerfully asked the seated, chatting men to “fill ’er up.” They laughed a good, deep laugh. “Don’t you know, my friend? There is no fuel in Malawi.” We did not know that the President of Malawi had recently told the British to “mind their own business” when they had complained about his proposal to criminalize homosexuality. The British response was to withdraw all aid, leaving impoverished Malawi without sufficient foreign reserves to buy fuel from South Africa. We found a few gallons of diesel fuel on the black market which was poured into the Landy from a cooking oil drum through a tea strainer—the diesel having, no doubt, first been watered down to the point of being potable. The good old Landy ran on this strange brew and delivered us to Blantyre where we would queue at two gas stations for 12 hours, conducting traffic once the police left at sunset before eventually filling our fuel tank. There was a strictly enforced limit of 15 gallons per vehicle, OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

but we had negotiated a full tank in return for directing traffic and recruiting a small army of large taxi drivers to maintain order in the absence of the police. We crashed to sleep at 1:00 a.m. on a bed the size of a tennis court under a ceiling of mirrors in a motel run by a demented Frenchman. We had planned to visit Livingstonia which sits at the top of a steep, mountain-sized hill. Missionaries named Livingstonia after the heroic Dr. Livingstone. We found a few gallons They had initially established a misof diesel fuel on the sion in Cape Maclear in 1875, but black market which was the prevalence of malaria and the allpoured into the Landy night disco parties drove them up to from a cooking oil drum the mountains in 1894. We had also through a tea strainer. planned to visit the Liwonde National Park, the Ntchisi Forest Reserve, the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, and Kasungu National Park but decided instead to preserve the limited fuel we had available and spend two weeks in Cape Maclear, making new friends and solving the world’s problems. The owners of the Fat Monkeys camp befriended us and suggested that we might be interested in running the lodge for them, an idea which we considered for awhile. The proposition was tempting; we could sell our business back in South Africa, or run it remotely, and live an idyllic life filled with daily adventure and infinite sunshine. The children would meet international travelers and would do their schooling under the tree, supervised by the tall Dutchman and the monkey—they could learn Chichewa and Swahili. Perhaps we would earn enough that we would be able to take a few months of vacation each year and explore deeper into Africa with our Defender. No, we would not have all the conveniences which an industrialized nation affords, but we would have peace of mind and a life less ordinary. We began to look at the camp and country with new eyes, but it was then that the cracks started to appear. We soon realized that the only problem with paradise is that it promises what it cannot deliver, particularly if your expectations are unrealistic. Peace and tranquility are fleeting. The foreigners who live and work in these idyllic places soon encounter problems with the locals who have authority and majority and expect compensation for being born in a beautiful place. The heat drives you to the shade of the bar where one cold refreshment becomes two becomes three becomes four. The exceptional becomes ordinary, the new old, and before you know it you are deep in debt to the local chief, sick with malaria, permanently hungover, sunburned, and heading toward divorce after one of the kids is eaten by a crocodile since he or she eventually became a villager. We chose instead to return home and, to our surprise, found ourselves circumnavigating South America a year later. Please, visit Malawi, but be sure to leave. Eventually.

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HISTORIC OVERLAND JOURNEYS TOM SHEPPARD

OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

Libya, Just Weep Libya today is still tragically damaged, but there’s cause for optimism.

FROM THE DESK OF TOM SHEPPARD—RAW AND UNABRIDGED

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rom the darkened cockpit the dull back-glow of the navigation lights far out on each wingtip shone as a thin wash of light against the dark night sky. Ahead, the first hint of dawn showed only as a band of colour on the horizon, changing abruptly from orange through peacock green to the deep indigo of the departing night. Down on our right, a small line of dunes revealed slip faces to the rising sun, scalloped shadows backing each bright crescent. The stark massiveness of Jebel Uweinat loomed ahead against the dawn, its mighty boulders, sheer cliffs, and triple peak just discernible in outline, a huge massif rising more than 4,000 feet above the flat surrounding desert. And just before that wave of minor activity—that looking up and out, that switching off of instrument lights, the cockpit banter, the careful handing round of coffee, marking the end of a night flight—I had thought of our huge sturdy aircraft as it really was: 50 tons of buzzing complexity receding in the now clear morning sky, silhouetted high up there, the wink of the taillight just discernible, the drone getting more distant until it came only on the lulls of the desert breeze. And then the only sound, as I sat there on the dune watching the dawn, was the thin sibilance of the blowing grains of sand. My love affair with the desert had begun. For indeed I was there, on the ground, a year later. As I was again, another eight OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

years on, not so peacefully, gunning the Land Rover, 4,000 rpm in fifth low, through wickedly soft sand that never seemed to end on what was the harrowing 230-mile journey from Kufra Oasis to Jebel Uweinat. A vast skein of tracks—the highway for trucks from northern Sudan—churned, soft and weak, smoothed by the desert winds to look pristine but in reality treacherous and a challenge to smaller-wheeled vehicles. I would wish, repeatedly, for the ability to change smoothly from low range to high range on the move—a Defender failing that would lead eventually to my buying a worker G-Wagen as a replacement. Jebel Uweinat was first recorded, officially named, and positioned as recently as 1923 by the remarkable Egyptian explorer Ahmed Hassanein Bey, and a few years later explored by Ralph Bagnold and other pioneers of motorised desert travel. I sought the rock paintings and carvings that were known to be in the Uweinat area so as to nail them, finally, on GPS, maps, and satellite photographs for the Department of Antiquities for Libya. This had been my main reason for coming to Libya and the basis for gaining permission, but though my air force days had shown me some of it, I had resolved this time to see as much of this huge country as I could. Huge? Libya is roughly 1,000 miles top to bottom and left to right with a population of only a little over six million. Uweinat is at the extreme southeast of the country on the

Clockwise from top left: Ahmed Hassanein Bey, Egyptian explorer and Royal Geographical Society Gold Medallist, recorded, named, and positioned Jebel Archenu and Jebel Uweinat in 1923. My mandatory guide, Mohammed, got the Land Rover safely down the LibyaAlgeria border. The Bey Tree in 1998. The Bey Tree in 1923. Tekart Naha anvil rock. Opposite: Karkur Ibrahimâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a western valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;at the Jebel Uweinat massif, where the borders of Libya, Egypt, and Sudan meet. Opening spread: The Defender in Karkur Talh, 1998.

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A FULL 15 YEARS BEFORE GOOGLE EARTH WAS THOUGHT OF, I HAD VIRTUALLY FULL MAP COVERAGE OF LIBYA AT A SCALE OF 1:200K—BUT BLACK AND WHITE, WIGGLY CONTOURS INSTEAD OF HILLSHADING, RULED IN UTM RATHER THAN LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE, ALMOST DEVOID OF TOPOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION. AND IN RUSSIAN. BETTER THAN A BLANK SHEET OF PAPER, BUT NOT MUCH.

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border with Egypt and Sudan. To see all I could, I would start at the far northwest, entering from Tunisia. Despite, at that time, 1998, the lack of any official diplomatic relations between Libya and the UK, the Libyans in London—the wonderful Mrs. Milud in particular—were most helpful. My visa gave me specific authority to go to Uweinat, and they seemed relaxed about what route I took to get there. As ever, logistics were a vital consideration for the route I hoped to cover, with long stretches of bare desert without fuel or water. The road I would intercept from the west stopped at Kufra Oasis and the return trip from there to Uweinat—mostly off tracks, not just “off-road” for 500-600 miles with reserves—dictated six cans of diesel and four of water. In a 90-inch Defender—modified, optimised, tweaked, and shod with Michelin XS tyres—that didn’t leave a lot of payload for other kit. Land Rover’s disgraceful hush-up of the cambelt misalignment/failure problem on the 300Tdi diesel engine was discovered just in time before leaving. The 350-mile track south along Libya’s western border with Algeria to meet the tarmac for Ghat included some challenging dunes to get the party started and had my guide (obligatory for that sector) jittery at the risk of kidnapping and wishing he was back in Ghadames, the picturesque ancient settlement where he got on board. Of

a portly build, Mohammed nonetheless sprang from the wagon like a gazelle to marshal me up and over dune edges when the situation demanded. He was impatient, however, of my keenness to log our route and mark it on the maps I’d had copied from rare originals at Cambridge. A full 15 years before Google Earth was thought of, I had virtually full map coverage of Libya at a scale of 1:200k—but black and white, wiggly contours instead of hill-shading, ruled in UTM rather than latitude and longitude, almost devoid of topographical information. And in Russian. Better than a blank sheet of paper, but not much. Mohammed departed when, 380 miles later, we met the tarmac road leaving me to head west, camp, then go south to Ghat, close to the Algerian border—a sleepy ancient place at 42°C outside in the afternoon with many mud-made buildings, old wells, and dusty streets. The tin shed hotel roasted me, but the locals were welcoming, calm, helpful, and most generous. In the morning I saw a disabled man in a spanking new wheelchair zipping down the road. As I would find later, the oil revenues were funding worthwhile projects. Meeting some camel-borne Tuareg after turning round to head east again, they chuckled and nodded my comparing the desert functionality of their camels’ wonderfully soft, padded feet with my own aired-down Michelin XS tyres. The extravagant geology of the Acacus mountains, all grey-purple distance, cliff edges, angular peaks, and spectacular eroded outcrops left me gaping. Immaculate tarmac for around 450 miles took me east towards Sebha but veering south at Meknusa, eventually to fuel and water at Timsah—the end of the paved road. The mapped dotted line “track” thereafter refreshed my debogging skills over a deceptively smooth sand sheet of soft going before becoming an identifiable route through Wau el Kebir and on to the long-dormant Waw an Namus volcano. I approached an unremarkable rise in the now-cindered track to be suddenly confronted with a 2.5-mile diameter caldera. Sunk within the huge rim were salty pools, edged with vegetation and a central hill. Namus (mosquitoes) and the presence of a rather unsettling group of the Libyan army in HiLuxes had me leaving to camp elsewhere, ready for the 300-mile Rebiana Sand Sea through which the various maps optimistically indicated a track. Overlanding technology in 1998 was getting established. GPS was giving me fixes, and I had secured the use of a marine EPIRB (emergency position indicator radio beacon) in case things went wrong. A check with UK authorities cleared me to do en-route tests so that a rough indication of how far I was along my planned route could be established from time to time. Unbeknown to me, this test would cause later problems. Day/night September temperatures of 42°C/35°C and strong desiccating winds tested the refreshing magic of a Honda electric shower pump when I could afford the water; usually, before a known replenishment point—Timsah in this case. As always, to save weight, and for preference, I slept without a tent, the stars a treat. Agricultural projects and a fully laid-out settlement infrastructure near Murzuk—roads with street lights ready for new buildings—showed again that Libya’s oil revenues were not being wasted.

Rebiana Sand Sea dunes are small but dangerous if you tip over into a dune pocket. My mirror reflects bright sunlight onto the sand to warn of approaching dune edges in high-glare conditions. Bottom left: The en-route EPIRB howgoes-it test worked but led to “discussions” with the police at Kufra. Right: Churned, soft sand, windblown over to look strong and virgin, called for the usual remedies— here a telescopic long-reach jack, homemade wheel claw, and the peerless three-section Barong alloy traction devices. Opposite: The Russian maps proved not much more than plotting charts for the marine dead reckoning navigation. Early-tech GPS was worth its weight in diamonds.

The final fuel and water point before the off-road dip south and east to Tazerbo was smartly followed by heavy bogging in the blown-over soft sand, necessitating tyre pressures down to a closely monitored 1.1 and 1.3 bar front and rear and repeated use of the sand tracks. The Michelin, Russian, and other maps I had claimed there was a track from Waw an Namus heading around 075°, but elaborate zigzagging to intercept it proved, not for the first time, that the maps OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

had got it slightly wrong. If there had been a track, it was either very rarely used or was now blown over. After near 100 miles of flat pristine sand the dunes appeared, small with the sandfalls away from me. The valleys were at an angle to my direction of travel, so regular crossing of dune lines was necessary. It could have been worse. But, especially with a high sun on unbroken surface, the dune edges were all but invisible as I approached. My trusty Device Invented by Sheppard (DIBS) mirror earned its keep, forward-facing to reflect a bright sun spot on the ground 25 yards in front to warn of a sandfall ahead. Small birds, quite unafraid, flew down to rest in the Land Rover’s shadow during my lunch stop. Pure magic. With Bagnold’s description The satnav’s bearing and distance of Karkur Talh virtually to the waypoint led me out of this engraved on the inside of measured, rather intimidating wildermy skull, my breathless ness into Tazerbo. I arrived at noon to progress down the narrow find no main street, little row of lockvalley, with Uweinat’s cliffs up shops, or fuel station. Appearing to in the blue, hazy distance a be uninhabited, all it seemed to lack dozen miles away, was was a sinister Charles Bronson propcautious and reverential. ping up a porch, tumbleweed, and an Ennio Morricone soundtrack. The friends of a man I eventually found had a huge Mercedes truck and a spare can of diesel for which they would accept no payment. Four hundred miles, an arrest for my EPIRB test (apparently against the rules despite UK assurances), a questioning at Kufra, cordial release, and an award of considerable assistance later, I was 20 miles north of the distant Jebel Uweinat frontier post with Sudan and Egypt. Kufra, seeing my specific permission from the Embassy of Libya in London to visit the Uweinat rock art sites (if I could find them), awarded me an escort of an army Toyota equipped with neither shovels, sand tracks, pressure gauge, pump nor, we discovered, a reliable battery. Embarrassingly, the soldiers bogged repeatedly and eventually, preferring to stay in the makeshift frontier camp, they went on, leaving me north of Uweinat’s neighbour Jebel Archenu outcrop to camp and explore. I found Hassanein Bey’s lone tree at Karkur Murr at the mouth of Jebel Archenu, magnificent after 75 years extra growth. I left a business card wedged in the bark. Up close, Jebel Uweinat is enormous. And majestic. Even from a distance, you are left in no doubt. West to east it is 46 kilometres, about 30 kilometres north to south. Where were the rock paintings and carvings? This trip had been my obsession, researched and planned over a number of years. I was treading in the footprints of pioneers: Hassanein Bey, Prince Kemal el Din, Ralph Bagnold, Hans Rhotert, Sir Robert Clayton, Count Laszlo Almasy, and others. None had GPS. Understandably, many were reluctant to give details of locations. Bagnold was more forthcoming, and research in the archives of the British Library in London had yielded the names of wadis (valleys, here termed karkur), some descriptions, and one or two latitude/longitude positions. From these fixes, early sketch maps, and a single poor satellite image, I was able to get a reasonable picture of the layout of the Uweinat massif and where the named valleys were. Checked many OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

years later, there seemed to be errors in the Russian maps due to a misaligned UTM grid, and even the grid on my sole satellite shot was a bit out. The search began. But I only had four days before the escort had to get back to Kufra. At least the military had left me on my own—with an unnerving mention of land mines over the Egyptian border that ran through the massif (I recalled a magazine shot of a German GWagen in flames having caught one) and across which I would have to tiptoe in order to find Karkur Talh, Bagnold’s El Dorado of rock art. It was to be four years before, in the Algerian Sahara, I had the electrifying and emotional experience of finding what I am pretty sure had not been yet discovered. (By “discover,” of course, I mean recorded by a white man with a pith helmet or 4x4.) It was for me, nonetheless, a memorable event. Site 1 in Karkur Idris at Jebel Uweinat, close to the track and border post, to which I homed in first on the basis of descriptions I had researched, was, in line with the customs of our times, quickly identified by the spread of empty tins and rubbish around the entry to the cave. None of this, however, lessened the impact of the display of hundreds—said by some sources to be 800—portrayals of cattle, giraffes, gazelles, ostriches and human figures painted over the underside of Uweinat’s huge boulders. The shape and overhang of the boulder meant that the rare rain never touched the paintings. I spent a couple of hours clearing the site and left the rubbish neatly stowed in three strong bin bags, lined up, to make the point to any future visitors. Site 1, (Bagnold’s name, as I recall) was on the west side of Uweinat near the Dongola–Kufra Route. Karkur Talh was on the far side, some 50 miles round the massif over the sand and through, as I called it, the Mitla Pass, the few puny coils of barbed wire that marked—together with the land mines—a recent neighbourly row between Egypt and Libya. Uweinat, the records show, has rain (self-generated by the height of its plateau) every 15 years or so. But it had rained three weeks before my visit, and Karkur Talh had laid on a special display of greenery and yellow flowers to mark the eventual launch of my long-planned expedition. With Bagnold’s description of Karkur Talh virtually engraved on the inside of my skull, my breathless progress down the narrow valley, with Uweinat’s cliffs in the blue, hazy distance a dozen miles away, was cautious and reverential. On this, the sandstone side of the massif, the rock art, rather than painted, is engraved with a fineness of detail that has you wondering what tools the Tebu of 7,000 years ago used. For me, seeing these engravings, time stood still. I was spellbound. I would find in 2018 that the GPS fix I took would, on Google Earth, be accurate to the very rock I stood on to take the photographs. As I had done in the Algerian Sahara 20 years before my Libya visit (1978), Bagnold had used a theodolite at night to obtain astro-fixes of Karkur Talh’s position. Just a few miles into Egypt without permission, though, I mused that if a random border patrol didn’t get me, then there were always the land mines to think about. Six years later, my barrage of letters, photographs, and supplications brought UNESCO to Uweinat—a Protected Area and possibly a World Heritage Site on the menu. April 2004 found

me on a plane to Tripoli to meet up with a team led by Giovanni Boccardi, head of the Arab States Unit at UNESCO’s World Heritage Centre in Paris: it included Dr. Rudolph Kuper, vice president of the Heinrich Barth Foundation, Professor Savino di Lernia of Rome University’s Faculty of Humanity Sciences, and Ali Emhmmed AlKhadouri, president, Department of Archaeology, Tripoli. The expedition, including the flight to Kufra and convoy to Uweinat, also had the financial support of the Italian government. The professionals were impressed when we visited Uweinat and within four days, back in Tripoli, working night and day, a UNESCO technical report was hammered out to submit to the governments of Libya, Egypt, and Sudan recommending tri-national action aimed at setting up a Protected Area around the Jebel Uweinat massif. It fulfilled all of UNESCO’s carefully worded criteria. In 2018, my gentle prod and the hint of better things coming up for Libya, at last, had Mechtild Rössler, the director of UNES-

CO’s World Heritage Centre in Paris, emailing the images above to sleepy regionals: “… certainly exceptional and deserving of… international protection,” they chimed back, but justified current inaction on the grounds of “security and poor governance.” With Uweinat’s extreme isolation its best protection for now, and despite some vandalism by the border military, they have a point. But we’re not going to leave it there, are we?

Clockwise from top left: There are literally thousands of carvings and paintings at Jebel Uweinat. This is one of the more accessible in Karkur Talh on the Sudan side. What is the story? Is that a queen and her daughter, a guard with a staff and an ostrich feather fan? And the cattle? A special herd? Will we ever really know? A Tebu hootenanny, circa 5000 BC. UNESCO experts take a look at the carvings in 2004. The view from camp.

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What a project! But there was more to come, and the scale of the Great Man-made River (GMMR) was hard to grasp. Amazed, inspired, curious, humbled, mystified by what I had seen at Uweinat (and relieved not to have encountered the land mines on the Egyptian side), we headed back towards Kufra all too soon, the army vehicle succumbing to a dud battery, numerous boggings and the assistance of the mighty Mercedes 6x6 “buses” that ferried cheerful and optimistic workers from Sudan to Libya in this heyday of available jobs. Okay, you go on, they said, and I pottered safely into Kufra (and a shower at the hotel) in my own time. But Kufra being different now from when it was in 1960 and 1969 when I was there before, I was soon bothering the “officials” to be shown the Kufra Agricultural Project (KAP) not far out of the town (not merely an oasis now). THE KUFRA AGRICULTURAL PROJECT KAP was 100 1-hectare irrigated crop circles 550 miles south of Benghazi on the Mediterranean Coast in the otherwise bare sandy desert, one of the early beneficiaries of the 1950’s aquifer discoveries. Running it was Refe Omar Howej, a magnetic, ebullient, selftaught English-speaking, 34-year-old manager (and cartoonist with a wicked sense of humour). “What do we do? Ten hours sleep and five hours drinking tea!”

1998

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2018

As well as his hundred crop circles, the water and the alfalfa it produced favoured four-legged inhabitants, all looking in splendid condition: a large flock of sheep, imported black and white cattle (in suitably shaded pens) and a bunch of the friendliest and soppiest camels you could ever wish to meet. Global politics being what they then were, Refe, at the sharp end, was feeling the heat down here in more senses than one: economic sanctions. His enormous, old American tractors, Johnston pumps, and electric equipment all needAudacious ideas ed sanction-barred spares from the US. dawned; rigorous tests His astonishingly resourceful Sudaand feasibility studies nese engineering foreman and his two over the years resulted mechanics, however, were not to be beaten in the Great Man-made by the complexities of an equally mighty River, a civil engineering automatic transmission. Translating what project of almost they could from a manual, and working unimaginable scale. out a procedure from the parts catalogue, the sick KAP tractor was back in business. I arrived, unheralded, at Refe’s office just as he was awarding the team a certificate and monetary reward for their efforts—top-man management at the sharp end too. Is Refe still spreading his good humour in 2018? Yes. Alive, well, and working on palm and olive propagation projects. And how is the KAP? Limping along. Not all 100 crop circles are functioning, but this is due to underfunding in the light of recent history and, incredibly, militia vandalism. That some are still working and a large area of fruit trees has arisen to the west of the town is testimony to the water supply being in good order. For now, with seeds and tree saplings cheaper than tractors, the project is not giving up. THE GREAT MAN-MADE RIVER Only a tiny band of Libya’s Mediterranean coastline gets more than 100 millimetres of rain per year. The majority of the country is desert. Unknown to most, ridiculed by the uninformed media, lauded by all involved in its construction, and valued by its beneficiaries in Libya’s major conurbations, the Great Man-made River (a clumsy English translation of the Arabic) was acknowledged to be one of the world’s biggest civil engineering projects. Oil prospectors, 1,000 kilometres inland in the 1950s, stumbled on four enormous aquifers of ancient water deposits—saturated porous rock layers, not underground lakes—up to 38,000 years old. Audacious ideas (emanating initially from Colonel Gaddafi) dawned; rigorous tests and feasibility studies over the years resulted in a civil engineering project of almost unimaginable scale. Watering the coastal towns and fostering agriculture with new small farms in potentially fertile areas in the northeast was the aim. Early enquiries and a call at the UK contractors Brown and Root’s outpost south of Tripoli gave me the green light in 1998 to visit sites in the east and southeast of the country far out in the desert. The sheer scale of the project was enough to leave the most hardened technophile open-mouthed. As the “Yes, buts…” and “What abouts…” tumbled out you began to grasp the size of the engineering and organisational implications. Did it work? Yes. Is it still, in 2018, working? Supplying clean water to Tripoli,

Clockwise from top: An immense man-made reservoir at Ajdabiya. A huge 4-meter diameter pipe takes water north. Megaplumbing at the “Tobruk-T” south of Ajdabiya. Water from 220- to 325-meter-deep bores feeds irrigation bars. Opposite: The Great Man-Made River pipeline. Kufra’s crop circles in 1998 (left) and 2018, but note the acreage of fruit trees to the west of the town in 2018 (satellite shots courtesy Google Earth).

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Benghazi, Sirte, and Tobruk among others? There were anxious times around 2011-2012, but the “best sources” say yes. And for how long? (Remember the doubters?) They used to say 50 years. Now they’re saying 70 years. And the farms? Jebel Akhdar in the north, good take-up and working.

LIBYA?. . .ER?

1911-12

Italians conquer Ottomans.

1969

Bloodless coup, Gaddafi takes over and builds infrastructure and the nation over next 40 years. Pan Arab approach, increasingly dictatorial.

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74 BC

643 AD

16TH CENTURY

1942

1951

1960-1970

2011

2011-2017

2018

Romans conquer (from Greeks).

(WWII), Allies oust Italians.

Arab Spring discontent prompts protests, civil war, Gaddafi killed.

Arabs conquer Romans, spreading Islam.

Independence under King Idris al-Senussi.

Power vacuum, two factions plus Islamists.

Tripolitania, Cyrenaica, Fezzan become “Libya” under Ottomans.

Hitherto cripplingly poor country benefits from oil revenues.

UN plans get Arab League approval, hope for a new constitution, elections. Watch this space, and strongman Field Marshal Khalifa Haftar.

Reference: BBC Country Profile

LIBYA: A BRIEF HISTORY

A WWII B-24 bomber that ran out of fuel coming back from a raid and landed itself after the crew bailed out. Well-meaning entrepreneurs wanting to start a museum had the aircraft dismantled and dragged back to Tobruk where it has lain ever since. The Arch of Septimius Severus and amphitheatre at Leptis Magna.

THE PREVIOUS TENANTS—LIBYA, WEEP NO MORE The mighty presence of Jebel Uweinat and its extraordinary evidence of thriving earlier settlements, the achievement of the Kufra Agricultural Project, and the sheer scale of the GMMR Project left my head reeling. I was, as ever, reluctant to leave the desert and chuckled to find myself deliberately slowing down as I headed north. The profound thought occurred to me that I loved the desert for what it is—but also for what it isn’t; you can take it from there. I crossed the northern fringe of the vast and challenging Calanscio Sand Sea between Jalu and Jaghbub, saw the stub of the crisp tarmac road that headed toward Egypt but stopped, unfinished, at the border: evidence of another spat between the two countries sometime in the past. And as I drove slowly north and then west back towards the ferry at Tunis, I remembered the delightful people I had met, the smiling mothers whose children brought me, the honoured visitor, presents. The gift of diesel at Tazerbo. The falconers. Different civilisations in the troubled history of what is now called Libya left their mark. I got a panoply of what was left—the ancient mud mosque at Jalu, the old Italian forts, the magnificent Roman remains along the north coast—Appolonia, Cyrene, Leptis Magna, Sabratha, monuments to the skill, industry, and arrogance of the occupiers. If today’s hooligans, rebels, and religious extremists could learn a measure of tolerance and be given cause to calm down and be optimistic, Libya could realise the promising start made in Gaddafi’s early years, now fostered by the United Nations.

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Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

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The Outpost II Camper American Expedition Vehicles’ luxury “motorhome” built for global travel. By Chris Collard

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n the past few years, the overland community has experienced a barrage of new options when it comes to vehicle-based abodes. For many, the concept of slipping out of the driver’s seat and into your living room is very appealing. Merge this idea with a compact and reliable platform that will go just about anywhere, and you’ll have a vehicle that is ready for a jaunt across the Rubicon or around the globe in comfort. American Expedition Vehicles (AEV), running ahead of the curve as they usually do, developed the original Outpost back in 2006. With another decade of experience building OE-quality conversions under their belt, founder Dave Harriton took it upon himself to create the next generation of the ultimate overland Jeep—the Outpost II.

AEV vehicles are manufactured in their Michigan plant with nearly 100 percent US-made materials. Opening page: The Dynatrac high-clearance Dana 60, combined with AEV’s 4.5-inch DualSport suspension, highcapacity coil springs, and prototype Bilstein 8100 shocks offer more than enough moxie to carry and control the 6,340-pound vehicle.

DRIVETRAIN, SUSPENSION, AND ARMOR As one of the first companies to offer factory-fit V8 conversions for the Wrangler, the powerplant choice was a given. Popping the bonnet reveals a 5.7-liter Hemi that produces 375 horsepower and 390 poundfeet of torque. All components are from AEV, from the radiator and wiring loom to fuel lines and battery tray. Assisting with

aspiration is AEV’s custom air box, snorkel, and prefilter, and upon close inspection, one would lose a bet that the entire ensemble did not roll out of Jeep’s Toledo, Ohio, facility as-is. Aft of the torque converter, we find an A580 5-speed automatic transmission, tuned and with shift points modified to accommodate the Hemi’s power curve. Receiving those ponies out back is Dynatrac’s new high-clearance, low-pinion Dana 60 fitted with 4.88:1 gears, an Eaton locking differential, and big brake kit. Up front rides a Dana 44, also by Dynatrac, with an electric locking diff from a Wrangler Rubicon. Keeping the axles in place is AEV’s 4.5-inch DualSport suspension. To manage the additional unsprung weight, as well as that of the camper and accessories, Dave incorporated AEV’s high-capacity coil springs, prototype Bilstein 8100 shocks, and a custom .875-inch sway bar. The combination provides for near-factory on-road handling, excellent off-road control, and articulation in cross axle terrain like no motorhome we have seen. Keeping the Outpost II in contact with the tractive surface is a set of 37-inch BFGoodrich mud-terrain KM3s and AEV’s 17-inch Borah 356-T6 aluminum wheels with forged beadlock rings. The Borah is a unique concept, as it can be utilized as a true beadlock, but also accommodates traditional non-beadlock mounting. No trail rig would be complete without proper armor and recovery equipment. In the front is an AEV Premium bumper fitted with IPF auxiliary lights and a Warn Zeon 10-S winch wrapped with synthetic rope. Protecting soft body parts are a pair of full-length Rubicon rock sliders. For the tail end of the camper, Dave fabricated a wrapOVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

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“I REALLY LOVE THE SIDEWAYS LIFTING ROOF. THE SPACE IT CREATES FEELS LIKE MUCH MORE THAN A TYPICAL RV OR LIFTING ROOF. IT’S VERY RELAXING AND AT THE SAME TIME VERY FUNCTIONAL. IF YOU PARK WITH THE SOLAR PANEL FACING WEST, ITS OUTPUT IS OPTIMIZED, AND THE INSULATED WALLS ARE TAKING THE HEAT, LEAVING THE WINDOWS AND TENT IN THE SHADE MOST OF THE DAY. I ALSO LOVE THE GASOLINE HEATER AND COUCH. IT’S NICE TO HAVE A PLACE TO ESCAPE WHEN THE WEATHER TURNS FOUL; MOST SMALL RVS DON’T HAVE THE SPACE OR SEATING AREA REQUIRED TO WAIT OUT A STORM IN COMFORT.” –DAVE HARRITON

SLEEK LINES

Out back is a custom rear bumper, Rigid Dually LED lights, and a pair of Maxtrax.

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The body of the Outpost is finely contoured and streamlined. While still being handsomely rugged, its sleek lines mimic those found on the current market of luxury crossovers.

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around rear bumper replete with a pair of crank-down stabilizer jacks and weld tabs for an array of Rigid Dually LED lights. A frame extension from AEV’s Brute double cab was incorporated to support the camper and provide proper attachment points for the rear bumper. This allows for the spare to be mounted under the rear deck, while overall length was increased by only 11 inches over that of a stock 4-door Wrangler. A recovery kit and a set of Maxtrax secured to the back of the camper are close at hand if needed. THE ABODE There is a lot to consider when creating a comfortable and functional living space: efficient use of real estate, keeping increased mass to a minimum, and constructing it to withstand the rigors of legitimate overland travel. The house began with a steel birdcage frame formed from 14- and 16-gauge square tubing, which was tied into the rollbar and floor (to add torsional rigidity) and powder coated. It was then fitted with CNCmilled polypropylene honeycomb panels and skinned with fiberglass. The result was

a rigid box with an R-9 insulation rating. The top opens in clamshell fashion with a pair of electric jacks, revealing a breathable enclosure that provides nearly 8 feet of headroom. Walking around the Outpost II, we find several storage compartments, a fill cap for the 22-gallon water tank, 120-volt shore power receptacle, motion-sensing exterior lights, and an AEV awning. Because living on the road is about being one with nature, the pantry, National Luna fridge/freezer, and Partner Steel stove are accessible via two additional portals under the awning. While the fridge and pantry are also at hand from the inside, exterior access is handy for stocking provisions after shopping. Stepping inside is reminiscent of entering a luxury yacht. A laminated hardwood counter rests to starboard, and much of the hardware and accessories are adaptations from the marine industry. To port is an 80-inch couch that converts to a bed, underneath which are additional storage and household systems. Keeping occupants warm on chilly nights is an Espar B5 13,500 BTU petrol heater, and the 4-gallon

1. Beneath the bench seat, we find a pair of Optima BlueTop house batteries and a 4-gallon water heater. 2. Stabilizing jack stands drop down from under the bumper via a hidden mechanical crank. 3. With the top up and kitchen deployed, the Outpost II becomes a comfortable home on the road. 4. Under the bonnet is one of AEVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trademark 5.7-liter Hemi V8 conversions. Everything from the airbox to the wiring harness looks like it was installed in the factory. 5. Exhaust gases from the Espar B5 13,500 BTU heater are routed into the tailpipe. 6. An eNow 265-watt solar panel and solar-powered fan are up top. 7. A storage bin provides room for recovery equipment and extra gear. 8. The outdoor galley includes a slide-out National Luna fridge/freezer, Partner Steel propane stove, and access to the pantry. 9. A frame extension from AEVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brute double cab allows the spare tire to be mounted under the rear deck.

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SPECIFICATIONS

2016 Jeep Wrangler JK POWER AEV 5.7-liter Hemi A580 5-speed automatic SUSPENSION AND DRIVE AEV 4.5-inch DualSport and high-capacity coil springs Prototype Bilstein 8100 shocks Dynatrac Dana 60/Dana 44 axles Eaton/Rubicon locking differentials WHEELS AND TIRES AEV 17-inch Borah beadlocks BFGoodrich KM3, 37-inch

RECOVERY AND ARMOR AEV Premium front bumper, custom rear Rubicon rock sliders Warn Zeon 10-S winch with synthetic rope Maxtrax recovery tracks ARB recovery kit ACCESSORIES Lighting: Rigid Dually LED, IPF LED Custom roof rack AEV awning

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hot water tank is heated and controlled via a marine heat exchanger and thermostatic mixing valve (shore power can be used as a backup if needed). To safely vacate spent gases from the heater, the manifold was tied into the vehicle’s exhaust system at the tailpipe—very creative. Keeping the system energized is a roof-mounted enow 265-watt solar panel, dual Optima Blue Top deepcycle batteries, and National Luna charge controller. Other mindful touches include LED interior lighting throughout, a proper closet for hanging clothes, custom roof rack, an ARB twin compressor, and camper OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

hinges thoughtfully designed to match those of the JK’s hood. AEV has come a long way since its humble beginnings in a one-room, dirt-floor shop in Missoula, Montana. Their success is largely due to the extraordinary attention to detail in every product they produce. This ethos is evident in the Outpost II. When asked what he would do differently and if the Outpost II will be available as a public offering, Dave said, “I built it for two people and a dog to travel comfortably. As far as manufacturing the Outpost II for retail sale, I’m not sure. We aren’t quite done with it, but I will keep you posted.”

HOUSE SYSTEMS AND CONSTRUCTION Steel frame, honeycomb core, fiberglass skin Electric pop-top roof, breathable tent National Luna charge controller, Dual Optima BlueTop batteries eNow 265-watt solar panel with charge controller Espar B5 13,500 BTU (petrol) heater National Luna fridge/freezer Partner Steel stove Marine heat exchanger hot water, 22-gallon water tank

1. The generously sized pantry is accessible from inside or outside. 2. The clean and functional cockpit is mostly stock. 3. The Outpost II’s cabin is surprisingly spacious and nothing short of luxurious. 4. LED strip lighting illuminates the floor, countertop, and tent. 5. Additional storage is found under the bench seat and below the rear cabinets.

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The New Road to Tuk One of the last great driving experiences to be had in North America. By Ray Hyland

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There is no shortage of scenery along the Dempster Highway when crossing Tombstone Territorial Park. The sun quickly burned away the morning mist along the Dempster. Opposite: We enjoyed a spectacular view overlooking Moberly Lake. Opening page: The Defender 90, driving into the misty sunrise.

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ang! I snapped my head around at the sound, in time to see Chris plummet from roof height to the rocky ground below; there was just enough light in the late evening sky to see his ankle bend 90 degrees in the wrong direction. Natalie and I were rushing over almost before the shout of pain left his lips. We were on day one of a multi-week trip we’d been planning for months, and it looked like it might end before we reached day two. A few months prior in the spring of 2017, we were huddled around my dining table, looking at maps. Chris had reached out to the government of Canada’s Northwest Territories (NWT) and received permission for us to drive the new, unfinished road across the territory. NWT is almost twice the size of Texas and has only 40,000 people—half of whom live in the capital city of Yellowknife. It’s hard to imagine a more isolated landscape, or where you can travel a longer distance without seeing another human. Along the remote Arctic coastline there are a few towns, more like hamlets, with human populations ranging from dozens to hundreds, rarely thousands. One of these is Tuktoyaktuk, population 898 people according to the 2016 census. Tuk, as it is locally called, is the proverbial end of the line, and the farthest north you can drive in Canada. And, for decades, you could only do the drive in the winter, along one of Canada’s most famous ice roads, following the frozen surface of the Mackenzie River. The extreme weather meant that very few people attempted the drive for pleasure; usually, it was just ice-road truckers hauling freight who travelled the remote roads. A few hardy souls were among the exceptions each year, including Overland Journal’s Scott Brady (Gear Guide 2017, Winter 2016, Winter 2007). For the longest time, Canadians have talked about their two coasts. You could be from the East Coast or the West Coast. It seemed like most people forgot there was a third option, the Arctic, or North Coast. It’s not surprising really. Traditionally, the Arctic coastline has been so difficult or expensive to reach that for most of Canada, it was easier to visit the beaches of Mexico, Hawaii, or even Australia. All of that was scheduled to change in November 2017 with the completion of a road the NWT government had scouted nearly 30 years before. Not wanting to wait for the official opening, and hoping to catch the fall colours of the first frost, Chris received permission for us to drive the road while it was still under construction. We began our pilgrimage in late August 2017. We decided to make it an even bigger undertaking and set our sights on being the first people to drive across Canada from south to north in the summertime. Why some might ask, would anyone want to drive all the way to the Arctic to visit the ocean? Well, there aren’t very many people so it won’t be crowded, and if you time it right, you will have 24 hours of sunlight each day. Plus, you can observe whales, caribou, or maybe even an occasional polar bear. Beyond the destination, the journey itself is nothing short of spectacular. Starting at Vancouver, we journeyed east on the Trans-Canada Highway through fertile farmlands, then up the Fraser River Canyon, a stunning drive with a slightly dangerous reputation.

Although the dangers on this road are real (animals, blind curves, rock falls, tourists stopping for photos in the middle of the blind curves), most of this can be mitigated by taking a slower pace and enjoying the drive. No problems for us, as friends Chris and Natalie were in their Defender 90, with a 300Tdi engine known for torque rather than speed, and I was driving an ancient Range Rover Classic with a freshly built motor. The little 3.5L V8 in the early Range Rovers was never going to set any speed records, but since I only had a thousand miles on it (1,011 when we set out) and was still breaking it in, I didn’t want to push it very hard either. So with the mercury hitting 36°C (97°F) the three of us cruised along the winding canyons in our stately British steeds with the windows rolled down, stopping for ice creams, roadside fruit, and to take photographs. We made good time and were setting up camp that first night just outside Quesnel, British Columbia, when a ladder assembly error on Chris’ new rooftop tent caused him to plummet to the ground. All three of us have extensive medical training, and we assessed it as a bad sprain rather than a break, requiring the RICE protocol: rest, ice, compression, elevation. We decided to go to the hospital in Prince George for an X-ray the following morning, just in case. The X-ray confirmed it was a bad sprain, and although Chris was in a lot of pain, the road permit we had was for a fixed date, so we decided to press on.

There is a silver lining in every cloud, and the fact that Chris wouldn’t be operating the D90’s heavy clutch for a week or so meant that Natalie took over driving duties in the Defender, and Chris was able to keep his Nikon on his lap. Chris is an excellent photographer, and with his camera always at the ready, The three of us cruised captured shots of wild goats, elk, bears, along the winding arctic foxes, eagles, and buffalo along canyons in our stately the roadside. British steeds with the Heading out mid-morning, we windows rolled down, crossed the Yukon border and stopped stopping for ice creams, to take some snaps at the Hyland River roadside fruit, and to Provincial Park where the Alaska Hightake photographs. way crosses the Hyland River. My Irish grandfather explored the Canadian North in the 1940s and 1950s as a photographer in what was still wild and remote land, taking on odd jobs as he found them, usually with his Balda 6x6 folding camera around his neck. That Balda is the pride of my camera collection and I still pull it out to use on occasion. Later, in the early 1960s, my dad set off from Ireland on a trip to distant Canada to explore the North, looking for his father and also for himself. At one point, he was working in a camp outside Tungsten, along the Hyland River, clear evidence that my grandad had been in the area. Dad liked to fish in an unnamed tributary of the Hyland

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Clockwise from top left: Our first views of the hamlet of Tuktoyaktuk as we approached the Arctic coastline. The new road is a ribbon across the tundra and an engineering marvel. A Tuktoyaktuk artist, hard at work in Inuvik. Autumn colors abound in Tombstone Territorial Park. The Dempster is notorious for sticky, gritty mud.

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QUIRKY LOCAL RESTAURANTS SERVE UP CRAFT BEERS, GREAT FOOD, AND LIVE MUSIC MOST NIGHTS, AND THE SURROUNDING AREA IS FILLED WITH HISTORICAL LANDMARKS, MUSEUMS, AND BEAUTIFUL PERIOD BUILDINGS.

River and thought he should leave his own mark, so he hammered in a homemade sign naming the Little Hyland River where it entered the bigger stream. Many decades later, he passed the same spot and found that his sign had been replaced by one from the government, but the name had stuck. With the goal of blazing our own stamp, we turned north at Watson Lake along the muddy and seldom-driven Campbell Highway, and then east along the Nahanni Range Road. The 200-kilometre section of gravel is one of the most remote roads in the Yukon, and coincidentally one of my dad’s favourite fishing areas in the 1960s. We stopped at a scenic spot where the road crosses the Little Hyland River, collecting a stone and a few photos before heading back to our original route. My “spirited” driving on the Nahanni Road had used a lot more fuel than usual in the Range Rover. By the time we reached the community of Ross River, my extra jerry can was empty, and my fuel light was on as we rolled into town, finding the fuel pumps locked for the night. The next morning, the fuel attendant showed up an hour after opening time to serve the grumpy line of cars, four in total—a veritable traffic jam in Ross River. I pumped 75 litres of fuel into the Rover’s 76-litre tank, and we set off for Dawson City, capital of the Klondike Gold Rush in the late 1890s. Although Dawson only has about 1,400 full-time residents, the town has a youthful feel with a lot of positive energy. Quirky local restaurants serve up craft beers, great food, and live music most nights, and the surrounding area is filled with historical landmarks, museums, and beautiful period buildings. Since we had a deadline, we decided to explore Dawson properly on the return leg. A quick stop at the auto parts store to top up on blinker fluid and buy another extra jerry can and we set off on the famous Dempster Highway, the 700-kilometre dirt road to Tuktoyaktuk. With a total capacity of 116 litres of unleaded gasoline in my tank and two jerry cans, I had a theoretical range of 450 kilometres. The next (and only) fuel stop on the Dempster was Eagle Plains, 405 kilometres away, giving me a safety margin of 45 kilometres if we didn’t stop, detour, or explore. Of course, we did all three, and as we pulled into Eagle Landing, my fuel gauge was again just above empty. We took two days to drive the Dempster, camping along the highway north of Eagle Plains; although you could drive it over four days and not be bored—the scenery is that spectacular. Knowing our time was limited, and that we could do a leisurely drive south, we pushed through, crossing the Yukon’s rugged mountain ranges and massive valleys, then into the Northwest Territories, with its seemingly endless tundra and spartan ferry crossings, eventually reaching the town of Inuvik in the early evening. Inuvik has the feeling of a frontier border town, and in some ways, that’s what it is. Not that there is a political boundary anywhere near, but the town sits at what has long been the edge of the true wilderness in Canada’s North. Beyond this point, you previously needed to leave the comfort and security of your truck behind; either you hired a bush pilot to drop you off, or you were dependent on a boat or your own two feet to get around. That is changing with the new road to Tuktoyaktuk, the reason we were in Inuvik in the first place. Inuvik would no longer be the end of the line, merely one more stop on the long road north to the Arctic Ocean. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

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The new road was still a dirt track in August 2017, a 300-kilometre line of dump trucks and bulldozers with crews that were frantically trying to finish by November, when the prime minister was scheduled to fly in for the ribbon-cutting ceremony. But we had pushed ourselves and our trucks so hard because our one-off permit was for the following day. We called our government contact as soon as we arrived, but the news we received was disheartening. The unusually heavy rains over the previous few days had turned the construction site into a quagmire. Work on the road was suspended until the ground dried out, and no vehicles were permitted on the surface to keep from damaging it, as well as to prevent recovery crews having to be dispatched into the wilderness. We spent a lot of time on the phone, and then in person, talking to Dean Ahmet, the engineer in charge of the entire project. We told

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A curious, young Arctic fox comes to see what we are up to. Chris and Natalie, enjoying the sunset over the Arctic Ocean.

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him about our well-set-up trucks, our experience driving in difficult terrain, and our extensive selection of onboard recovery kit. We also stressed that our “Leave No Trace” approach to backcountry travel meant that we were used to minimizing our impact on the environment. And that our Land Rovers, half the weight of the smallest work trucks the crews used and with our tires aired down, wouldn’t leave the same deep trenches unless the ground was especially soft. We promised that if we encountered those The basic route was conditions, we wouldn’t continue. proposed in the 1960s Dean listened patiently, then told us he and roughly mapped would look at the road conditions the next out in 1974, but the day and let us know. There was the slightest final path winds chance that if the weather held (dry, windy through the landscape conditions), we might be allowed to go like a ribbon fluttering at midday the following day. Not feeling in a light breeze. terribly optimistic, we decided to splurge on a couple of rooms at the Nova Hotel and dinner at the Roost Restaurant—the only place open. It’s an odd little joint ostensibly serving a mix of pizza, chicken, and Chinese food, although what’s actually served depends on what’s available. The day we were there, chicken was the only option. The next morning we looked around town, checked fluids in the trucks, and visited the museum, where I met an artist from Tuk. He was working in Inuvik since that’s where the tourists were. We chatted about the new road, and he told me he was looking forward to being able to create and sell his art in his hometown, rather than constantly having to fly down to Inuvik. Right then, Dean called and said we could go. Elated, we quickly drove to his office, had a safety meeting to go over the rules, and headed out of town, through the security gate, and onto the new road. The scenery changed quickly. At first, it’s just more taiga, endless vistas of trees and rivers, with a small strip of dirt winding north. But then we hit the treeline, and it is a line. One minute you are driving through a sparse coniferous forest, and the next, the trees just thin out and disappear. Suddenly, you are driving across the tundra, with nothing but lichen and stubby little bushes to cover the landscape. The road itself is more advanced than it appears. Costing $300 million (CAD), it crosses 137 kilometres of some of the most sensitive and delicate areas in Canada. The basic route was proposed in the 1960s and roughly mapped out in 1974, but the final path winds through the landscape like a ribbon fluttering in a light breeze. Before we left Inuvik, Dean explained that the path allows for the minimum number of culverts and bridges (still over 300), allowing natural drainage—important in a landscape of lakes, creeks, and pingos (ice-cored hills unique to the region). The foundation of the road is laid upon a thin geotextile fabric, which keeps the road materials from penetrating and destroying the permafrost layer beneath it. As we traveled along the new road, we were happy to be so well prepared. Due to the prior wet conditions, most of the construction activity had been halted, and we felt like we were all alone near the top of the world as we drove through the sparse and windy landscape. The lack of trees meant that we could see for miles in every direction, and the view of lakes, rolling hills, and meandering streams was always changing, topped by a blue sky dotted with clouds racing for the horizon.

Most of the road was nearing completion, with a solid gravel surface elevated metres above the surrounding landscape. Some areas were obviously not so far along, and we encountered long slippery sections, where even with tires deflated and centre diffs engaged, we still felt like kids on a Slip ’N Slide. Luckily, only the top few inches were soupy, so although we struggled to keep the vehicles pointed straight, we never sunk down enough to create serious ruts or to start dragging diffs. After a long afternoon of driving, stopping for pictures, and enjoying having the whole road to ourselves, we arrived at the gate indicating the end of the highway and the entrance to Tuktoyaktuk. Rolling into town was a bit surreal. The road was still officially closed, and up to that point, every vehicle that came into town was either driven up the Ice Road in the spring or shipped in on a cargo barge. Our two Land Rovers were very distinctive, and folks in the town stopped whatever they were doing to watch us amble past. We did a slow circuit of the village and stopped at the store/post office to introduce ourselves and ask about camping. As it turns out, the idea of a designated visitor camping spot was a new concept. The Inuit have travelled cross-country for countless generations, and they would simply stop and set up tents wherever looked like a good spot. Since overland travelers always arrived in the winter, the need for a dedicated place for people to pitch tents hadn’t really been discussed. After a short communal discussion, the consensus among the villagers in the store was to pick anywhere that looked comfortable. We drove to a quiet beach on the edge of town with a picnic table and started to make camp. Over the next hour, as Chris and Nat opened their rooftop tent, and we began making dinner, there was a continuous stream of cars, quads, and pickups slowly driving past us to take a look. We smiled and waved exaggeratedly at everyone who drove by, and quite a number of them stopped for a chat when they saw we were friendly. Everyone thought we were in a good spot, and a few mentioned the grizzly bear that wandered through the village a few days before. I was happy to be sleeping in my truck. We discovered that one of the best parts of camping on the Arctic Ocean in mid-summer is that the sunsets are not only spectacular, but they also last for hours. We were a little late for the 24 hours of daylight, but in August, we still only had a few hours of twilight overnight. Luckily, after a long and eventful day, we were all tired enough to fall asleep quickly when we finally crawled into our beds, despite the light sky outside. The next morning, we woke up bright and early, had a fantastic breakfast on the beach, and spent the rest of the morning exploring the town and chatting with the locals. Eileen Jacobson drives a local cab and runs tours. She mentioned how town members were looking forward to the greater freedom of movement, being able to go to Inuvik to shop at bigger stores, go to an actual mechanic for car repairs, or even go for a driving holiday—things that the rest of us take for granted. Most of the folks getting coffee at the post office were enthusiastic about the increased school opportunities for their kids and the possibility of more shopping options in Tuk, now that retailers can commute from Inuvik rather than living full time in Tuk. Yet, some shared concerns about increased drug use in town, more alcoholism,

and even the fear of “child snatchers” coming up from the south. During our short stay, the townsfolk were almost universally friendly, except for the one lady who assumed we’d snuck in on the still-closed road and called the Mounties on us. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) detachment sent a truck to check us out, and we had a nice conversation with a couple of the local constables. We asked them how they expected the road to change the town. They responded that drugs probably were not a big fear, as they are small enough to fit in a carry-on bag if someone wanted to smuggle them in. They did mention the potential challenges of alcoholism, not currently an issue as alcohol is restricted in Tuk—a case of beer costs $200. So there is an incentive for people to smuggle booze up the road and it’s pretty easy to hide. Time will tell if that becomes an issue. Our travel window was quite inflexible, and we had been asked to head south on the new road at noon. While we were waiting for the gate to be unlocked, we were visited by a playful young fox who ran circles around us, while Chris snapped a few photos of him. Finally, the gate was open, and we were free to head south once more. We’d had a few adventures making it to the top of the country, and we planned to have a few more, taking the long route home. We were just glad that despite the injury, tight timing, and weather, according to our research, we’d managed to set a new record.

UPDATE: Since this story was written, the new road did open on sched-

ule in November 2017. Our recent follow-up interviews with residents and the RCMP indicate that it has had a positive effect on the town so far. A new gas station and grocery store have opened, and the quality of groceries is fresher and of greater variety. A trader, locally called the Fruit Man, now makes regular runs from BC with fresh produce, and residents are getting used to the ability to drive down to Inuvik for the day to take advantage of the services—everything from getting passport pictures taken to a night out for dinner. Eileen, the taxi driver, said she’s had an increase in tourist customers, especially Europeans who want to skinny-dip in the Arctic Ocean (who knew?) and her husband, Billy, complains he rarely sees her anymore as she seems to be driving up and down the new road much of each day, ferrying residents and supplies. The local RCMP detachment reports they haven’t seen an increase in drug use or availability, and although they have seen illegal (over the limit) alcohol, they haven’t seen a dramatic increase to date.

Marie York-Condon of the RCMP did ask us to share one warning with overlanders: “This may be an all-weather road, but it is still in Canada’s remote North, so care and preparation should be taken when embarking on your journey.” Sage advice from people who have to deal with the aftermath of the unprepared, and a good reminder that while the road may be new, the trip to the remote North Coast is still one of the last great driving adventures in North America. If you have a few weeks to spare, take a look at the road to Tuktoyaktuk, but do it quickly before the new road changes the region forever.

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LIFE ON THE ROAD GRAEME BELL

OUT, DAMNED SPOT How to keep your threads spic and span in the hinterland. Let’s be honest; there is something strangely satisfying about a big pile of freshly washed clothing. As a family of four, we have more than our fair share of laundry. Jessica will wear five outfits a day if she can get away with it, and each outfit is automatically “dirty” when worn once. Keelan has a peculiar gift for getting clothing filthy as soon as he has put it on. I manage to cover all my clothing with either grease or food. We have, over the years, learned a few time-, energy-, and money-saving laundry techniques. THE WINE STOMP When arriving at a campsite, you will usually decide within the first half hour whether you will be settled in for longer than a night. If so, grab your designated laundry crate, a large one if you’re a family, and fill it with enough water to cover the clothing. Add your detergent and then step in, or get your iPod- and chocolate-cookieequipped 7-year-old in there, and let the stomping begin. Said stomping is to continue until the child’s feet are wrinkled and your clothing is clean. Empty the crate of dirty water and replace with fresh water and a bit of softener if desired. Repeat stomping, wring out clothing by hand, and hang up to dry. WASH BUCKET WITH WATERTIGHT LID Place dirty clothing in the bucket with detergent and water and seal the lid before setting out for the day’s drive. Upon arrival at the campsite, your clothing would have gone through a decent wash cycle. There are several problems with this method (yes, we have tried it a few times): You may not find a suitable location at the end of the drive to dry the clothing; the weather may change; you may not find sufficient water available for rinsing the laundry; if left in the bucket for too long, the clothing may mold and will need to be washed again; the lid may come off on very bad roads leading to a soggy mess. WASH BAG These are essentially dry bags with little knobbly bits inside. A great idea, but not incredibly effective, and if rubbing too vigorously, it may be too abrasive for your clothing. THE WASHBOARD While old school, you might as well head down to the river and bang your laundry with a rock.

HAND-PROPELLED WASHING MACHINE Similar to a large salad spinner, though not as effective as hand washing, the hand-propelled washing machine is more gentle on the fabric and colour of your favourite garb. These machines are roughly the size of a beer keg and therefore difficult to pack on a small rig and more suited for bigger trucks. I would rather take a beer keg. MINI-WASHING MACHINES If you have a truck, then by all means, buy a machine that works— you might consider offering up the machine if you come across an overlander that has a small bundle of washing. Of course, you will often be able to drop the laundry at a laundromat which may or may not be expensive, and may or may not clean your clothing. Some laundromats will use the minimum amount of detergent possible and, after a very short wash cycle will toss the clothing in a dryer with some nice-smelling stuff. Clothing will often be returned stained and shrunk. DRYING Carry a decent length of nylon rope to string between trees or from the vehicle roof rack to a pole as a washing line. A rope is always handy, and we find it is better to have one piece of gear which can do many jobs rather than single-purpose equipment such as a thin wash line.

TIP

Wooden clothes pegs/pins are more durable than plastic.

DYE, DON’T BUY After a few months of outdoor living, stomping, and constant abuse, your clothes may lose much of their colour. Dyeing can revitalise clothing and give it a few more months of service which represents quite a large savings for the budget-conscious overlander. And every long-term overlander we have ever met lives by one simple motto: repair, don’t replace.

Editor’s note: Please do not dump detergents into water supplies or near other sensitive areas, even if they are marketed as environmentally friendly. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

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DESTINATIONS KARIN-MARIJKE VIS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COEN WUBBELS

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oen sat with his knees pulled up drawing sketches—a small figure on a 43-foot-high outer wall constructed of massive, 16-inch-thick sandstone blocks. On top of one of the corners, a carved lion stood guard. I was jotting down notes, leaning against the remains of an inner wall. Around us lay the ruins of fallen columns and broken gargoyles. Was this once a fortress, palace, or mausoleum? Little is known about Qasr al-Abd (Palace of the Slave), a Hellenistic site in the village of Iraq al-Amir. For us, it was a place to rest for a day during our 400-mile hike across the Jordan Trail. In Jordan, it is as if you have the world to yourself, a place to bask in complete peace and quietude. Villages can still be silent since portable music devices haven’t penetrated the country yet on a large scale. Until prayer time, that is. After the typical crackling of the sound system, a call of prayer comes wailing through the air, quickly followed by a second call. Clear and passionate cries echo through the valley, “Allahu akbar” (God is great). You may grow used to the wailing of the muezzin five times per day. But if you listen and allow the sounds to penetrate your being, a primordial sense of belonging can overtake you, though you may not understand a word or be religious. This sense of ancientness is everywhere, from Umm Qays in northern Jordan, barely six miles south of the Syrian border, to the shore of the Red Sea. Since times immemorial, merchants, pilgrims, and migrating humans have carved trails and trodden existing ones across hills, valleys, deserts, and rocky canyons, linking East to West, North to South. Among them are Roman roads and the King’s Highway, the latter being an ancient trade route that ran from Egypt to Syria. The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan has only been a country since 1946, but the land has been home to many civilizations and has a long and rich history. In this sense, Jordan is best known for the city of Petra, a necropolis of rock-cut temples, tombs, cisterns, and facades, with an ingenious water system built by the Nabataeans when Petra was the most important city of their empire (approximately 400 BC-100 AD). If you like old stones, Jordan is the country for you. As Andrew Evans so aptly described in an article for National Geographic, “Jordan has been old for the last 50 centuries.” The Greco-Roman ruins of Jerash, just north of the capital of Amman, and the ruins of Gedara in Umm Qays, built on a promontory from where you can see the Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee on a clear day, are both worth a visit. Farther south lies Pella which, like the Amman Citadel, was built on ruins dating from the Neolithic period. Connecting these sites are unpaved roads and paths no more than a foot wide, trampled by millions of sheep and goats, which meander through rolling hills with verdant olive groves, hot springs, caves, oak and pine forests, and the fertile agricultural lands of the Jordan Rift Valley. “Ahlan wa sahlan,” (Welcome to our country), locals would call out as we walked by or, “Come and have tea with us.” Taking a break from harvesting olives, farmers kindled a fire with a few twigs to boil water in a black-sooted teapot. A pinch of dried mint leaves and a couple of spoons of sugar is all that’s needed to concoct Jordan’s traditional, almost syrup-thick tea. We sipped the energizing liquid from small glasses as we talked using hands and feet language and smiling a lot. Others invited us for lunch, laying out a piece of cloth on the field on which they put containers with fresh hummus drenched in olive oil, cans of tuna, containers with olives and pickles, za’atar (dried wild thyme with sesame seeds) and flatbread. “Come, eat with us,” they pressed. In Jordan, you find warmth and generosity around every corner.

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Situated amidst countries torn apart by war and internal conflicts, Jordan is a haven of stability and tranquility. It is a melting pot of Bedouins, Armenians, Circassians, Palestinians, Iraqis, and Syrians (one million of the last three groups being refugees), but there exists a peaceful coexistence among the various branches of Muslims, Christians, and Druze. Since it’s one of the driest countries in the world, water is a continuous challenge, and the government has strict regulations to administer the limited water supply (you are not allowed to irrigate your fields with water from public wells or drill your own well). Many Jordanians are poor and live off the land, but they know how to share. Hospitality is deeply ingrained in the culture, and throughout our walk, it was easy to meet people. There is always time for a talk, some friendly banter, to share a Turkish coffee enhanced with cardamom, or a meal. On Friday, their holy day, we were sometimes lucky enough to feast with locals on an elaborate lunch, often eaten with our hands from a communal platter. Be sure to try maqlubah, a traditional upside-down dish of meat, rice, and vegetables, and mansaf, the national dish of Jordan, lamb or goat cooked in dried yogurt, roasted, and served with yellow rice sprinkled with almonds and copious amounts of yogurt sauce. Known for some important religious locations such as Mount Nebo, where Moses looked out over the Promised Land, Jordan is a country for the faithful. Many sites are mentioned in the Old and New

Walking down the spectacular Wadi Dana brings you to the desert area of Wadi Araba. Opening page: The town of Madaba is home to historic churches and an incredible selection of Byzantine mosaics.

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Clockwise from top left: Jerash is known for the ruins of the Grecoâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Roman city of Gerasa. The site is considered to be one of the most important and best-preserved Roman cities in the Near East. Nothing beats a breakfast made with fresh falafel with a deep-fried mini patty made from ground chickpeas. Entering the ancient city of Petra from the back door, the monastery is the first imposing site on the trail. A view on Tafilah, the place where T.E. Lawrence destroyed the sizable Turkish force. Being invited for lunch is an integral part of a visit to Jordan. Here we are treated to the famous dish called maqlubah, eaten from a communal plate. The superb preserved mosaic floor of the church at Mount Nebo.

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TRAVEL TIPS You can buy a visa beforehand at an embassy or on arrival at the airport. At most land borders, you can get a one-month, single-entry visa for around 40 JOD ($56 USD). When you buy a Jordan Pass in advance—which gives access to 40 tourist attractions—the visa is included (jordanpass.jo). Credit cards are widely accepted in cities but carry ample cash for eating out and buying souvenirs when elsewhere. While we found ATMs in all cities, many of them didn’t work with our foreign debit card, so hunt for ATMs in bigger cities (e.g., Amman, Aqaba, Karak and Madaba) and withdraw enough to last a while when you find one that works. It’s easy to rent a 4WD at the airports of Amman and Aqaba; there are international companies such as Avis and Budget as well as local ones. For this, bring your credit card and international driver’s license. Expect good roads connecting the cities, with plenty of off-pavement opportunities once you head into the countryside or desert. Take note of wandering sheep and goats. And in cities, watch out for unmarked speed ramps. Along the asphalted roads you’ll regularly find fuel stations but make sure to carry extra fuel (as well as water) when heading into the desert. In Amman, expect constant traffic jams; leave your car at the hotel and make use of the many taxis. Locals dress conservatively with most women covering their arms, legs, and hair. Headscarves are not mandatory and foreign women are not expected to wear one. While locals won’t remark on visitors dressing in shorts (including men) or otherwise revealing clothing, it is considered inappropriate. Swimsuits are acceptable in touristy areas such as swimming pools at hotels, and south of Aqaba is a beach frequented by foreigners in swimsuits. You will find falafel joints in every town and even most villages. Falafel sandwiches and deep-fried ground chickpea fritters on freshly baked pita bread with pickles and tomatoes make for easily accessible snacks on the road.

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Clockwise from top left: We strolled a market to handpick the best the region had to offer. The author amidst Wadi Aheimar, one of the most colorful siqs in Jordan. A Bedouin boy invited us into his tent made of goatsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; hair to serve us tea. Downtown Amman vendors sold sweet treats prepared with pistachios, almonds, and honey. Opposite: Clambering up a rocky ledge behind the Royal Tombs for half an hour is rewarded with the best view of the famous treasury.

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Testaments since Western Jordan is part of the Holy Land. Jesus is believed to have been baptized in the Jordan River just north of the Dead Sea (at the site of Bethany Beyond the Jordan). And on the shore of the Dead Sea you can visit the cave where it is thought that Lot and his family fled after the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah—nearby, Lot’s wife still supposedly stands in the form of a pillar of salt. The town of Madaba is home to historic churches and an incredible selection of Byzantine mosaics, including a 6th-century For days, we clambered floor mosaic of the Holy Land, while down the steep, rocky castles from the Crusader period such walls, crossed rivers, as Ajloun and Karak are reminders of and climbed back up on wars fought in the name of God. the other side. We lit As if ruins of ancient civilizations, small fires to keep warm desert cities, and biblical sites aren’t during the evening when enough reasons to shape a countemperatures plummeted try into a unique place, Jordan has to near freezing and sat some mind-blowing physical beauty under black skies thrown into the mix. South of Ambrilliant with stars, enjoying the solitude. man, colorful wadis (valleys) run across the country from east to west (Zarqa, Hidan, and Mujib), their highest points offering views of the salt-rich Dead Sea in the west. For lovers of canyoning and abseiling, put Wadi Mujib on your list. For days, we clambered down the steep, rocky walls, crossed rivers, and climbed back up on the other side, camping high up away from riverbeds, aware of where possible flash floods might occur. We lit small fires to keep warm during the evening when temperatures plummeted to near freezing and sat under black skies brilliant with stars, enjoying the solitude. South of these wadis, the bare landscapes flow into dauntingly vast deserts with sand dunes that run all the way into Saudi Arabia. Through his book Seven Pillars of Wisdom (in 1962 made into the movie Lawrence of Arabia), T.E. Lawrence brought fame to the region with the words, “Rum the magnificent…vast, echoing and God-like.” From Wadi Rum’s shifting and rippling sand rise monolithic rock formations—protruding from this ocean of red and orange, they appear to be fleets of enormous vessels. Here, the Bedouins beckoned us to drink tea in their traditional tents made of goats’ hair. It is in Wadi Rum

SUGGESTED READING Petra: The History of the Rose City, One of the New Seven Wonders of the World, by Charles River Editors, is a concise read which digs deeper than the general Nabataean history the city is known for. In The Story of the Scrolls: The Miraculous Discovery and True Significance of the Dead Sea Scrolls, Géza Vermes presents a fascinating overview of all that has happened with the Scrolls since the first ones were found in the 1940s. The Land Beyond: A Thousand Miles on Foot through the Heart of the Middle East, by Leon McCarron, is a captivating 21st-century travel memoir. It’s all the more interesting to read right before or after The Desert and the Sown: Travels in Palestine and Syria, to compare it with Gertrude Bell’s travel memoirs from 100 years earlier.

that we felt the crossroads of ancient and modern most strongly. Searching for a balance between holding onto their traditional values and finding ways to have a steady income, many Bedouins work in the tourist industry, organizing 4WD and camel-riding tours through the desert. For rock climbers, this is a destination to look into. When we thought we had traversed all landscapes imaginable, the trail suddenly turned west, leading away from the border with Saudi Arabia. After having crossed basalt and granite hills, we were more than ready for a dip in the cool waters of the Red Sea. The coastal town of Aqaba doesn’t have the most stunning beaches in the world, but it does provide a place to relax and digest everything you’ve seen and experienced on your trip—and to possibly do some snorkeling or diving amidst its rich coral reefs. We felt safe in Jordan, whether hiking and camping in the wilderness and countryside or walking in Amman in the evening. No matter how you overland through Jordan—on foot, by bicycle, motorcycle, or car—slow is the way to go. Camp amidst nature’s majesty, stroll through centuries of history, but most importantly, take the time to meet locals and accept their invitations. Being part of Jordan’s strong sense of hospitality is bound to create the best of all memories. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

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OVERLAND MEDICINE DR. JON S. SOLBERG, MD, FAWM

Graphic by Alex-Mit, iStock Photography

Learn Your ABCsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Airway, Breathing, and Circulation A basic approach to addressing adult and child choking, allergy-associated facial swelling, and airway occlusion in unconscious persons. PART 1: AIRWAY EMERGENCIES

hether working a shift in my local emergency and trauma center, responding to an overhead page for a doctor on an airplane, or assisting with a medical crisis in the backcountry, I initially evaluate every medical emergency in the standard order: airway, breathing, and circulation. You can apply the same principals in an emergency, which will help you remain calm and useful until professional help arrives. CHOKING

The slapstick comedy routine which involves a choking restaurant patron is no laughing matter. In fact, it presents a legitimate situation where a bystanderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s immediate action may save a life. Inhaled foreign bodies can run the gamut from pieces of inadequately chewed food to broken teeth to accidentally inhaled nuts or bolts held between the lips while working on a vehicle (we all do it). A choking person may display the universal sign for choking, where the victim holds his neck with one or both hands. If the person can cough and speak, you should encourage him to keep coughing. If he is unable to speak or cough, you should immediately perform the Heimlich maneuver, which involves giving five quick abdominal thrusts by wrapping your arms around the victim from the backside and placing the thumb-side of your fist against the middle of their abdomen, just above the navel. Grab your fist with the opposite hand and repeat the thrusting motion until the foreign body is expelled. If you are the victim and

alone, you can self-administer the maneuver by bending at the waist and quickly lowering your abdominal area onto the back of a chair. In children, you can start by reaching from the backside and around the waist with one arm and giving five back blows with the heel of your other hand. If unsuccessful, proceed to the Heimlich maneuver. For infants and small children, set the victim in the crook of your bent elbow, with a leg straddling each side and facing forward, like he or she is sitting in the saddle of a motorcycle. Lean the child forward and deliver five firm back blows with the heel of your hand between the shoulder blades. If unsuccessful, roll the child over and place two or three fingers in the center of the chest, just below the nipple line, and quickly compress the breastbone about 1-2 inches. Support the head of infants, keeping the head lower than the chest, so the foreign body falls out of the mouth when expelled. If a choking victim becomes unconscious, have someone call 911 or the local emergency number, lower the person onto his backside on the floor, tilt the head back to open the airway and start chest compressions for 30 seconds. Sometimes this will force the object from the airway, so be sure to open the mouth and if you can see the object, reach in and grab it. Perform CPR until help arrives or the object is expelled and breathing resumes spontaneously. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

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ALLERGY

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Typically, an allergic reaction involves a diffuse, blotchy, itchy, red rash called hives, but it can also involve difficulty breathing and swelling of the lips and tongue which block the airway. When an allergy becomes life-threatening, it’s called anaphylaxis, and it must be treated immediately. Persons with a history of life-threatening allergy should carry and know how to use an epinephrine auto-injector, commonly referred to as an EpiPen. If you carry an EpiPen, ensure that your group members know how and when to use it; if someone in your group carries one, make sure you’ve read the instructions ahead of time and have a thorough understanding of the product in case the person becomes unable to administer it to themselves. EpiPens come in adult and child sizes and using one should not intimidate you. There is a blue cap and an orange cap; both will need to be removed before use. Grip it like a microphone and jab it at a 90-degree angle to the thigh, holding it there for 10 seconds before you remove it. Do it right through the pants if necessary. Remembering the mantra “blue to the sky, orange to the thigh” and keeping your thumb from covering the end will help you avoid the mistake of injecting your friend’s life-saving medication into your own healthy thumb. The anti-allergy effects of epinephrine are short-lived, and those within the range of traditional emergency medical services (EMS) should immediately go to a hospital or call for help. When traveling beyond the range of EMS, you should consider adding diphenhydramine (Benadryl) pills and prednisone pills (a prescription steroid) to your medical kit, as these are also life-saving treatments for allergic reactions. If you cannot get to a hospital after needing epinephrine, consider taking up to a three-day course each of Benadryl and prednisone. Travelers in remote areas should be aware that there is additional epinephrine in an auto-injector, and you can learn how to extract it by searching the Internet for How to get additional doses out of an EpiPen. This is controversial and not recommended by any medical professional (including myself ) or the device manufacturer, but I believe you should familiarize yourself with the concept. Another more affordable option for wilderness travelers is to ask your physician for a small, multi-dose glass vial of epinephrine ($20) instead of a single-use EpiPen ($600). However, the EpiPen is foolproof, whereas there exists ample room for life-threatening errors of dosing if you break open an EpiPen or self-administer single doses from a glass vial. Be mindful and discuss the matter thoroughly with your physician first. UNCONSCIOUS PERSONS

When a person becomes unconscious from head trauma, seizure, overdose, allergic reaction, drug or alcohol intoxication, heart attack, etcetera, the muscle tone of the mouth,

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jaw, and tongue is lost, and gravity may cause the tongue to fall back and occlude the airway. You should be aware of two methods to keep the airway open in unconscious persons. If there is no suspicion of a neck injury (such as from a fall or motor vehicle accident), perform the head-tilt/chinSTRONGER TOGETHER lift maneuver by pushing up If you carry an EpiPen, ensure under the chin to tilt the head that your group members back and pull the jaw forward. know how and when to use it; if someone in your group Another option is to roll the carries one, make sure you’ve victim onto their side into the read the instructions ahead of recovery position which utiliztime and have a thorough es the victim’s downside arm understanding of the product to support the head and takes in case the person becomes unable to administer it advantage of gravity to pull to themselves. the jaw and tongue forward. This position ensures that vomit and secretions drain from the mouth; however, it is not very feasible for transporting an injured person or completing the rest of an examination. Another method which can be performed by trained rescuers is the insertion of a nasopharyngeal airway (NPA). NPAs are flexible, flanged plastic tubes about the length of your index finger that can be lubricated with surgical jelly and inserted along the floor of the nose, extending into the back of the throat and past the tongue. They are extremely useful for persons with swelling of the lips or tongue and have the added benefit of being tolerable by semiconscious persons when compared to other devices which are inserted through the mouth. A good Wilderness First Responder (WFR) course will cover NPAs, and you should consider carrying one in your backcountry medical kit. PENETRATING NECK INJURY AND EXPANDING NECK HEMATOMA

An emergency physician’s worst nightmare is a person with a penetrating neck injury from a gunshot wound or stabbing, or the victim of a hanging or “clothesline” injury about the neck (picture someone running into a clothesline). In these instances, a hematoma (blood collection under the skin) or swelling deep inside the neck starts to press against the airway. This condition is heralded by the onset of stridor, a high-pitched sound that comes from the airway during inspiration (inhalation). Commonly, it’s also present with dysphonia (change in voice quality). These are ominous signs and coupled with the right mechanism of injury, should prompt you to seek immediate medical help. If you are faced with a true medical emergency, don’t panic. Remember to keep a level head and approach things in a stepwise fashion by first addressing the airway. Consider taking a WFR course, learn how and when to use an EpiPen and an NPA, and remember to get that airway open. Doctor’s orders!

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OVERLAND CONSERVATION CHRIS COLLARD

MISSION TO HEAL MOBILE SURGICAL FACILITIES FOR THE WORLD’S UNDERSERVED.

For many of us living in developed nations, the subject of access to medical services often takes a backseat to less life-altering topics. But for those in remote regions of the world, the lack of basic care or surgery, if needed, is of serious concern. Marylandbased Mission to Heal (M2H), a 501(c)(3) non-profit founded by Dr. Glenn W. Geelhoed, was formed to address this issue. Dr. Geelhoed began his mission to heal nearly five decades ago, seeking the neediest souls in the most underserved countries. M2H is carrying his efforts forward on a global scale. Adhering to their motto, “Furthest People First,” M2H operates on the fringe of what most consider civilization, areas that are usually without electricity, clean water, and any semblance of what would equate to proper medical care. Many of these regions have experienced severe drought, government instability, sustained poverty, and even civil war. In addition to providing medical care, M2H educates local medical workers on techniques to provide maximum care with available, often minimum, resources. Past efforts in places ranging from Ecuador to the Philippines, Mongolia to Zimbabwe, have been limited to temporary remote basecamps and clinics with limited resources. But in 2017, M2H initiated the Mobile Surgical Unit (MSU) initiative. These self-contained ambulatory operating rooms can be transported by truck, train, ship, or plane to areas where people are too poor, sick, or isolated to access care on their own. Each MSU will be comprised of two sea container-sized modules and include three operating tables, solar- and diesel-generated power, HVAC and water purification systems, a shower and toilet, food preparation area, and staff sleeping quarters. Construction is taking place in Breda, the Netherlands, via a partnership with Bliss Mobil, purveyors of state-of-the-art, truck-mounted living spaces. The initial focus will be on Africa, which holds some of the most vivid examples of what M2H refers to as the “bottom billion.” According to the World Health Organization, many African countries have less than one physician per 10,000 inhabitants, a shocking statistic. Significantly, the African Union has embraced the initiative and will be providing the necessary documentation to operate in 52 of its sovereign states.

GET INVOLVED As the program develops, future MSUs will be deployed to the Middle East, Central and South America, and Asia. M2H is currently seeking skilled professionals (medical, country-specific “overland” experts, and others) to serve on a volunteer basis. As is the case with most charitable causes, funding streams are often limited to corporate and private contributions. For those of us unable to offer hands-on assistance, a small donation will go a long way in helping M2H accomplish its goal. missiontoheal.org

131 Clockwise from top: Final touches are put on an MSU as it is prepared for shipping to Africa. Each MSU contains three fully equipped operating rooms. The MSU is designed to fit into two shipping containers, and is mounted on a vehicle for fieldwork.

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PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID DUCHEMIN

The Well-traveled Lens

The real dirt on making photographs as memorable as your next adventure.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to let fear make you miss opportunities like this, but people are people, and they often respond well to curiosity, respect, and patience. After about 10 minutes with this man in Varanasi, India, we were both very relaxed with each other.

dozen years ago, I was sitting in a monastery in Kathmandu, the first light of day streaming through a single window illuminating a jadecolored drum. At the drum sat a monk, quietly chanting in rhythm with the slow beat. I sat across from him and, with his permission, photographed. Respectfully. Quietly. Never having been more present. I was alone, just the monk and I, in an ancient place and time. And then he looked up, asked me what model camera I was using, and if I would send him a photograph. His email, he told me, was something like Lama69@shabang.com. The moment and the mystery vanished, but the memory has remained, and it was my camera that got me there. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to translate the magic of the adventure into the photograph. The greater the magic, the harder it is. But there are things to which we can pay attention as we record these moments and memories and almost none of them depend on how good your camera is or how much gear you carry. In fact, the five ideas I want to share with you can be pulled off with nothing more than an iPhone. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

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THE EXPERIENCE You cannot photograph deeply what you do not explore or experience deeply. I’m probably preaching to the choir here, but when I teach people about this stuff, it takes some time before it sinks in, so preoccupied are they by the gear and the techniques. If I could get my students to slow down more, they’d experience more. They’d perceive and observe more, and it’s those two things that are the real task of the photographer: to be present Wide angle lenses more and see. You can’t make meaningful phoclosely replicate our tographs of a trip that happened so fast it peripheral vision, so the remains only a blur in the side mirror of wider the lens, the more your memory. If you want to have a better the objects along the adventure and make better photographs, sides of the frame will you have to slow down. Be patient. Follow begin to feel as though your curiosity. they’re on the edges of I suspect the skill set that makes a our vision, creating a good photographer is, in many ways, the sense of inclusion. same skill set that makes a good adventurer: curiosity, creativity, patience, and a willingness to slow down and look around corners and be open to new experiences. Remember, it’s the person that makes the photograph, not the camera. GET WIDE AND CLOSE The highest praise you can give my photographs is to tell me they make you feel like you were there. I want you to be pulled into them as much as is possible with such a limited medium. One of the best ways you can accomplish that “I feel like I was there” feeling is to use your wide-angle lens and get in close to the action. The wider and closer the better. You can back up when you start bumping into things. Wide-angle lenses more closely replicate our peripheral vision, so the wider the lens, the more the objects along the sides of the frame will begin to feel as though they’re on the edges of our vision, creating a sense of inclusion. Most of us keep our distance, both photographically and in life. Get closer; get right in there. Life is not for the timid. It’s true that this approach with people can feel intrusive rather than inclusive, but on six of the seven continents I’ve found respect, curiosity, and laughter go a long way. The penguins just don’t care either way. I’m not saying use a wide lens for every image, but if you want the viewer to feel like they were there, that’s the lens for you— now get closer. If you’re using an iPhone, there are plenty of aftermarket lenses that you can clip to your phone to give you a wider lens. I use one from a company called Moment that’s excellent.

134 CREATING A SENSE OF INCLUSION

I spent a long time with this man over the three weeks I was last in Varanasi, India. The lower angle, wide-angle lens, and ideal evening light create a soft portrait that still makes me feel like I’m on that boat. The end of a long day of diving, Mafia Island, Tanzania. These Gabbra women in Northern Kenya allowed me to get into their dance circle and shoot wide and low because I had spent time with them and gained their trust. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

CHOOSE A NEW PERSPECTIVE If getting in tight and close is about creating a sense of inclusion, then choosing a different point of view is all about hooking my interest. Show me something familiar in a different way. We already know what the world looks like from an average of 5 to 6 feet tall. It’s so familiar, we often don’t look twice. But show me that landscape from high above with a drone or from flat on the ground, and the world looks different. If you want to change the perspective of the person reading your photographs, then you’ve got to change yours. Take that camera into the tent and under the vehicle, get a waterproof camera like one from the Olympus Tough line and take it in the lake or surf with you. Consider getting one of the many drones now available to supplement your otherwise conventional footage.

LOOK TO THE LIGHT If you’re still with me, you’re noticing that this article isn’t so much about photographs as it is about the experience we can create with those photographs. For my money, nothing can change the mood in an image like the light you choose and the way you decide to use it. This subject alone could fill a book, but if you pay attention to your emotional responses to light and photographs that use light well, you’ll begin to work that into your photographs. You’ve probably noticed your images made in the middle of the day lack something. It’s probably the light—hard, high above, bleaching the colors. But by shooting on the edges of the day when the light is golden, or in the fog when it’s cool and diffused, or ignoring the old rule about having the sun over your shoulder and instead shooting straight into the light—these will all elevate the mood of your photographs. Asking yourself what the light is doing is a great question. What is it giving you? Reflections or shadows? Use them. Is it giving you silhouettes when you look back toward the sun? Use that, too. If you move a little and the sun peeks through the window on the rooftop tent, giving you a starburst and lens flare—fantastic. That’s mood, and it will make your images hit a more emotional chord. CONSIDER THE MOMENT Of course, mood isn’t the only thing that makes us respond to a photograph. We love a good story and, at least in a still photograph, it’s our choice of meaningful moments that creates a significant story. We sometimes forget that the camera only captures the moment we ask it to, and by extension, the people reading our photographs will

also only see that one sliver of time. So it’s up to us to choose the best moment. The one that gives the best expression to the thing we’re trying to say. The laughter on the faces around the fireside, the gesture of one traveler to another, the peak of the action, the glance upward—whatever it is, there are some moments better than others at communicating the heart of a story. The more careful we are to choose better moments, more human moments, or perhaps moments when the composition is the strongest one to our eye, the stronger our photographs will be. For all our talk of “taking” pictures, it is much more accurate to say they are made. Our images are a result of our intentional decisions or our lack of the same. You can have all the best camera gear on your next trip and return with nothing more than a hard-drive full of really sharp, really well-exposed images that are perfectly uninspired and uninspiring. Or you can take whatever camera you have, throw it in your pocket, and be a little more thoughtful and intentional about using your choices of perspective, light, and moment while slowing down, being patient, present, and perceptive, and getting a little closer to the action.

RESOURCES Moment shopmoment.com Olympus getolympus.com

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OVERLAND CHEF DAVID BRADEN HORN

Chili con Carne

An authentic Southwestern classic. SERVES 6-8 | PREP AND COOK TIME at least 4 hours | EQUIPMENT deep Dutch oven, wood or charcoal, knife,

cutting board, ladle, can opener

1 1/4 pounds stew beef, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 1/4 pounds hamburger or pork sausage 2 28-ounce cans of crushed tomatoes 2 sweet onions, diced 8-10 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1/2 cup butter, lard, or olive oil 1 tablespoon salt 1 1/2 tablespoons ground cumin 1 1/2 tablespoons smoked paprika 2 teaspoons ground turmeric 2 teaspoons ground coriander 2 teaspoons ground black pepper

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ood chili is more about the process of patiently developing and layering flavors than following a specific recipe. It takes time to make and is better the next day, which makes cooking chili best on a quiet day at a relaxed camp. Chili can be made on a stove or over charcoal, but the heat and smoke of a hardwood fire is the professional way to go.

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Over medium heat, brown off the cubed beef and sausage in some of the butter in small batches, managing the heat so as to not let the pot’s temperature drop enough to steam, rather than brown the meat. As each little batch is browned, scoop it out and add to a large bowl and reserve. When the meat is done, sweat and caramelize the onions in more of the butter. This all takes a while, about a beer or two at sipping pace. When the onions are silky and light brown, add the garlic and cook until fragrant, just a couple of minutes, taking care not to burn it. Throw your spices in and toast them gently for a minute or two. Add the tomatoes and salt to the pot along with the reserved meat and enough water to get the proper consistency, perhaps a cupful. Give it a stir and let it bubble away for at least 3 hours. Serve with shredded cheese and sour cream if you’re feeling fancy. If there is any chili left over, it’s wonderful over a couple of fried eggs for breakfast, and as it happens, is only a few tweaks away from also being a tasty curry. If the spirit moves you, stir in a few spoonfuls of garam masala spice, a little minced ginger, some fresh heavy cream or plain yogurt, and serve with rice. Beans in chili, like religion and politics, is a subject best approached with caution, if at all. I left them out of this recipe, but if you want to add them, we can still be friends. Enjoy.

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tioned. The next morning, I packed up and hit the road, passing through Bryce Canyon National Park with a final destination of Gooseberry Mesa for the night. Any man will look for an excuse other than himself as to why something didn’t work. Design problems, implementation, or as a last resort, “operator error.” In my case, unfortunately, any and all excuses funneled down to me since I designed, built, and packed the panniers. On the second day I was on the backside of Cedar Mountain. I had just finished a fantastic loop around Kolob Reservoir, done some fishing, and was getting back on the tarmac heading toward Kanab. Every few miles I would reach behind me and touch both panniers to confirm they were still intact, doing their job. Although it was relatively easy for me to hear the wind resistance coming from the panniers, I felt behooved to have physical confirmation. I set my cruise control, but before I could reach behind me, I heard an odd whistle coming from the rear of my bike. This was different from the regular wind resistance, and it didn’t take me long to figure it out: my left-side pannier had disintegrated, leaving all of my clothes and half my gear spread across the highway, giving it an odd Beirut-1987 feel. After looking through the wreckage like an NTSB investigator trying to determine why a jetliner took a dirt nap, I found

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that the problem with the panniers wasn’t necessarily one of design, but instead, execution. I had made six panniers that summer, and to be efficient, I used glue and a finish-carpentry nail gun—with the intent of securing the boxes with wood screws later on. At times I have difficulty paying attention to small details since I’m more of a “big picture” kind of person, so forgetting the screws was an easy mistake, but one I will not make again. In the end, I did not give up on Industry City Manufacturing, but I did have to shelve it for awhile. Life got busy and my R1200GS Adventure gave up the ghost in Baja in 2017. I’m rolling an R1200GS Rallye edition right now and simply love it. I’ve gone with soft panniers for my adventure riding, but I hope to resume work on the wood boxes soon for a polished, deluxe look when sticking to the tarmac. In the meantime, my carpenter projects have continued, and a new kind of auxiliary gear rack was born from the wreckage—one I tested recently without issue (as there are no nails whatsoever). My only hope by telling you this story is that you don’t give up on your projects; and also, give them a second look, make sure everything is tidy. The last thing I want is for your undies to be hanging from a barbed-wire fence while cars pass you by, honking and waving.

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TAIL LAMP S.K. DAVIS

Illustration by Michele Dallorso

Industry City Manufacturing A man with a plan.

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ormally, I wouldn’t be so bold as to name names of bad gear, but this isn’t a normal story. I have had good luck with most of my equipment and found there is a correlation between price and quality—you spend the extra money up front for the good gear so you only have to do it once. Looking back on past purchases, I see the equipment I bought when stingy and realize I spent more time retrofitting through adjustments and downright modification to suit my needs, which is both impractical and illogical. Of course, there are always contradictions in life which I find rather Jungian, for better or worse. As much as I love superior equipment, it’s not always possible to afford the good stuff; and further, sometimes the stuff you need doesn’t even exist. In the spirit of full disclosure, Industry City is my brainchild. Part of this concept was born from the ashes of my aluminum panniers—the luggage boxes to my BMW R1200GS Adventure which I left for dead in the Sonoran desert—the other part was forged from my enjoyment of working with my hands and creating new projects. Early in my adventure-riding years, I was drawn to the sleek and shiny look of BMW’s aluminum panniers. Different from the luggage found on your standard “bagger” bike, the metal boxes worked for me. After owning several iterations of the GS with these stock panniers, I found them easy to pack, adaptable, and convenient to unlock and carry—or even to use as a chair around the campfire. However, BMW’s panniers weren’t quite durable enough for those of us who ride off pavement. It only took one spill for my left-side pannier to suffer critical damage. The worst part? The bike had tipped over during a windstorm near the border of Mexico and the United States—I don’t even have a good story to tell. The Greek philosopher Plato once opined that necessity is the mother of invention. Usually, I would side with Virgil by fearing the Greeks even when they bring me gifts, but in this case, I wasn’t interested in spending another $1,000 for new BMW panniers, so invention won. OVERLAND JOURNAL WINTER 2018

Industry City Manufacturing began in the summer of 2016 when I first started experimenting with wooden panniers. Yeah, I said it, wood. Now, I know what you’re going to say: wood is just as fragile as aluminum for panniers, and they would likely weigh more, too. And you’d be right—and wrong. I made a halfdozen prototypes that summer and was pleased with only two of them. The inspiration for this material was twofold: first, I could see this item being featured on the Uncrate app which showcases I’ve often thought that if unique and often very expensive I had been a carpenter working side-by-side with equipment; second, these panniers the Lord, He’d have fired would be entirely custom. me within a few hours. Some of the key benefits of my panniers were that they looked very nice and were bespoke with features you request such as laptop sleeves and false bottoms. The most challenging part of the manufacturing process was finding a way to easily attach them to a motorbike’s existing pannier frames. In the end, I found a solution to this problem, but it’s nothing we need to discuss here. I was very pleased and proud of what I had made. Pride is an emotion often missing from my projects, but this was different. Perhaps it was the fact that these panniers actually worked and looked good; or, perhaps, the pride was tied to my traditionally horrible carpentry skills. To give you an idea of the lack of pride I’d taken on previous wood projects, I’ve often thought that if I had been a carpenter working side-by-side with the Lord, He’d have fired me within a few hours. Once I had functioning prototypes, I planned a weekend ride to test durability—an overnight trip where I could get a feel for packability, convenience, and ease of use. Also, this was a dual-sport trip that consisted of a third of my riding coming from dirt. I packed on a Friday morning and was wheels up by noon. So far, so good. The first night I spent camping near Panguitch Lake in the southwest quadrant of Utah. The panniers performed flawlessly to this point, allowing me to use all of the handy functions menContinued on page 138

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authentic