Overland Journal :: Spring 2015 by Overland Journal

Overland Journal Spring 2015

CONTENTS Spring 2015

Feature s 42

The White Desert: Expeditions 7 Crosses Antarctica, Chris Collard

Adventure-touring Suits, Christophe Noel

Whistles in the Canyon: Modern Explorers on the Mighty Colorado, Greg Hatten

Testing the Ice: Siberia in a Russian Ural, Ants Bolingbroke-Kent

109

Living Legends: Ted Simon, Interview by Lois Pryce

Dep artments

Overland Post

Editor’s Column

Field Tested

Overland News

Latitude

119

Overland Conservation, Del Albright

121

Overland Medicine: Burns 101, Dr. Jon S. Solberg, MD, FAWM

125

Skills: Electronic Navigation, Christophe Noel

132

Overland Chef: Savory Southwest Burgers, Andre Racine

136

Tail Lamp: Pamir Highway, Sophie Ibbotson and Max Lovell-Hoare

On the cover: The Arctic Trucks KUN26 Hilux, specially prepared for the Expeditions 7 team, is VɊVHKLK MYVT HU 0S`\ZOPU 03 JHYNV WSHUL H[ [OL (U[HYJ[PJ 3VNPZ[PJZ *LU[YL 0U[LYUH[PVUHS HPY base near Novolazarevskaya Station, Antarctica. Photo by Scott Brady. This photo: ;OL ,_WLKP[PVUZ [LHT Z[YPRLZ [OLPY ÄYZ[ JHTW PU [OL SLL VM ;OVY»Z /HTTLY (U[HYJ[PJH ^OPSL LU YV\[L [V [OL :V\[O 7VSL 3H[P[\KL! : LSL]H[PVU! TL[LYZ [LTWLYH[\YL! * Photo by Chris Collard. Back cover: +HU 4HJL Z\YMZ HSVUN [OL :V\[O (MYPJHU JVHZ[ ILOPUK H +LMLUKLY V\[Ä[[LK I` Front Runner. Photo by Dan Mace.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

We are adventurers. Constantly traveling. Testing and using gear in real-world situations. Gaining experience, which we readily share.

OUR RESUME:

7 continents 144 countries `LHYZ JVTIPULK L_WLYPLUJL and counting...

EXPERIENCE MATTERS We only know things when we live them

Spring 2015 Publisher and Chairman Scott Brady President and Director of Design Stephanie Brady Editor-in-Chief Chris Collard *OPLM ;LJOUVSVN` 6ɉJLY Christian Pelletier *OPLM )\ZPULZZ +L]LSVWTLU[ 6ɉJLY Brian McVickers *OPLM -PUHUJPHS 6ɉJLY Andre Racine Executive Creative Director Sinuhe Xavier Director of Operations Chris Cordes Editorial Administrator Sarah Ramm Senior Editor Christophe Noel Technical Editors .YHOHT 1HJRZVU 1HTLZ 3HUNHU Senior Photographer Bruce Dorn :[HɈ ,KP[VY ࠫZH )Q YRS\UK Conservation Editors (SPJL .\NLSL] 3H]HU`H :\URHYH Medical Editor Dr. Jon Solberg, MD, FAWM Contributing Editors Del Albright, Ned Bacon, Ants Bolingbroke2LU[ ;VT *VSSPUZ .YLN /H[[LU :VWOPL 0IIV[ZVU 4H_ 3V]LSS /VHYL (SMVUZL 7HSHPTH 3VPZ 7Y`JL (UKYL 9HJPUL ;VI` :H]HNL Chris Scott, Tom Sheppard, Gary and Monika Wescott, Ros Woodham Contributing Photographers Barry Andrews, Jimmy Chin, +H]PK K\*OLTPU 1HJR +`RPUNH 1LɈ -VV[[ Graphic Designer *OHaa 3H`UL Copy Editors Arden Kysely, Tena Overacker Cartographer David Medeiros -\SÄSSTLU[ Bo Rounsavall

Contact 6]LYSHUK 1V\YUHS 5 ;HYYH (]L 7YLZJV[[ (A ZLY]PJL'V]LYSHUKQV\YUHS JVT LKP[VY'V]LYSHUKQV\YUHS JVT HK]LY[PZPUN'V]LYSHUKQV\YUHS JVT Moving? :LUK HKKYLZZ JOHUNLZ [V ZLY]PJL'V]LYSHUKQV\YUHS JVT 0UJS\KL JVTWSL[L VSK HKKYLZZ HZ ^LSS HZ UL^ HKKYLZZ (SSV^ [^V [V MV\Y ^LLRZ MVY [OL HKKYLZZ JOHUNL [V ILJVTL LɈLJ[P]L Overland Journal is not forwarded by the U.S. Postal Service. 0[ PZ [OL Z\IZJYPILY»Z YLZWVUZPIPSP[` [V PUMVYT 6]LYSHUK 1V\YUHS of an address change. 6]LYSHUK 1V\YUHS PZ H [YHKLTHYR VM 6]LYSHUK 0U[LYUH[PVUHS 0UJ (SS YPNO[Z YLZLY]LK Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Overland 1V\YUHS PZ H ^OVSS` V^ULK Z\IZPKPHY` VM 6]LYSHUK 0U[LYUH[PVUHS V]LYSHUKQV\YUHS JVT

Our promise to you

56 *6479640:,

We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are independent and impartial. We never have and never will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising [V PUÅ\LUJL V\Y WYVK\J[ VY KLZ[PUH[PVU YL]PL^Z

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OVERLAND POST

Tatacoa Desert, Colombia. Photo by Coen Wubbels.

Wanderlust

Coffee Break

Do you think we can do it? This one sentence, along with the usual response of “Let’s try it,” is often at the heart of every great story. This is a common exchange between my father and me GXULQJ KXQWLQJ ÀVKLQJ DQG IRXU ZKHHO GULYH DG ventures. One such incident was during a hunting trip when we came to a narrow passage between D VWRXW IHQFH SROH DQG D IRRW PRXQG RI VRIW snow. There was a gap between the pole and the snow bank just wide enough to allow our Ram 2500 to pass…but only just. We decided to “try” and slowly inched forward. As the cab cleared, my dad added a little more throttle. The tires spun, lost traction, and the vehicle slid into the post, crunch ing the bed. The front end was pushed to the snow bank and the winch was of little use. After using a +L /LIW MDFN WR ZLQFK WKH UHDU HQG VLGHZD\V RII WKH post, we backed up and continued on.

Sometimes we need to have a break; coffee and our favorite magazine is the solution. Tatacoa Des ert, Colombia [above].

Reading your magazine is like experiencing these LQFLGHQWV RYHU DQG RYHU DQG VDWLVÀHV VRPH RI P\ overland fantasies, whilst increasing my wander lust. Thank you for the excellent publication—and many more journeys. Tyrel Iron Eyes 2006 Dodge Ram Power Wagon 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon

Coen Wubbels 1984 BJ45 Land Cruiser

Buying Locally I just read the winter edition of Overland Journal and thoroughly enjoyed the candidness of your editor’s note, Cast your Vote. While people can preach about buying local, it is inevitable that price may trump quality. I talk the talk by working for a company that manufactures everything here in the U.S., yet it FDQ EH YHU\ GLIÀFXOW WR walk the walk. As amazing as they are, not everyone (especially young people like me) can afford a $400 jacket from Filson. In any account, thank you for taking the time to call out American companies that are pushing the envelope locally in the age of globalization. Nancy Yun, Marketing Manager, AltRider Yamaha TW200

Write us a note H[[LU[PVU! 6]LYSHUK 7VZ[ LKP[VY'V]LYSHUKQV\YUHS JVT 5 ;HYYH (]L 7YLZJV[[ (A 0UJS\KL `V\Y UHTL HKKYLZZ LTHPS HKKYLZZ KH`[PTL phone number, and the year and make of your vehicle. 3L[[LYZ TH` IL LKP[LK MVY SLUN[O HUK JSHYP[`

Where in the world has your Overland Journal been? Send us a photo, along with your name, the location, and a brief description.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

CONTRIBUTORS

Spring 2015

Ants Bolingbroke-Kent

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$QWV %ROLQJEURNH .HQW LV D YHWHUDQ RI lengthy adventures in unsuitable ve KLFOHV ,W VWDUWHG LQ ZKHQ VKH FR SLORWHG D EULJKW SLQN WXN WXN IRU D UHFRUG breaking 12,500 miles from Bangkok, Thailand, to Brighton, England, with her best friend. They raised £50,000 for Mind, were named Cosmopolitan’s Fun, Fearless Females of the Year, and wrote a book about the trip called Tuk-Tuk to the Road 6KH KDV VLQFH ZREEOHG DURXQG WKH %ODFN 6HD RQ D ]HEUD VWULSHG Honda Cub, survived an attempt to reach the Arctic Circle on a Rus sian Ural, and spent two months traversing the Ho Chi Minh Trail on a Honda Cub (also pink). Her book, A Short Ride in the Jungle, was released in April 2014. In between traveling and writing, she’s a TV producer and currently working for the BBC in London.

Lois Pryce is a British travel author, MRXUQDOLVW EURDGFDVWHU DQG FR IRXQGHU of the Adventure Travel Film Festival. In 2003 she left her job at the BBC to ride from Alaska to the tip of South America astride her Yamaha XT225. Upon her return she wrote the book of this trip, Lois on the Loose. Itchy wheels struck again and she set off to ride the length of Africa, including the Sahara, Congo, and Angola. Four months later she rolled into Cape Town and penned Red Tape and White Knuckles. She’s since crossed the U.S. in a Ural VLGHFDU RXWÀW FUHDWHG D '9' JXLGH WR ZRUOGZLGH PRWRUF\FOH WUDYHO and crossed Iran, solo, on her motorcycle, which is the subject of her next book.

Alfonse Palaima

David duChemin

$IWHU FRPSOHWLQJ D SRVW FROOHJH DURXQG WKH ZRUOG DGYHQWXUH 3HQQV\OYDQLD QD tive Alfonse Palaima found his personal IRXU ZKHHO 0HFFD RQ WKH EDFNURDGV of Moab, Utah, and Ouray, Colorado, while en route to California. He found himself in the corporate world as direc tor of multimedia for CNation, but still yearned for the open road. Handy with a NH\ERDUG DQG FDPHUD DIWHU WKH GRW FRP crash he broke away from the norm and began a new career, this time on two wheels, as an independent photographer and journalist. His work has been published in dozens of motorcycle magazines and websites, DQG FRUSRUDWH FOLHQWV LQFOXGH %XHOO +DUOH\ 'DYLGVRQ +RQGD .DZD saki, and Yamaha.

David duChemin is a photographer, author, and nomad. His career as a humanitarian photographer has taken him around the world into some truly remote places, looking for beauty in WKH HDUWK DQG KHU LQKDELWDQWV +LV ÀUVW overland vehicle, a 1993 Defender named Jessie, took him around North America until she broke his budget DQG 'DYLG EURNH KLV IHHW LQ D QHDU ID tal fall during a detour through Italy. He now explores the Canadian wilderness with Emily, a 2011 Jeep, and his partner, Cynthia, from their home in Vancouver.

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Andre Racine

6RSKLH ,EERWVRQ DQG 0D[ /RYHOO Hoare run Maximum Exposure Pro ductions, an investment promotion agency that specializes in emerging PDUNHWV DQG SRVW FRQÁLFW ]RQHV They take a particular interest in ex ploring places far beyond the tourist trail and see tourism as a positive con tributor to economic development. They have sailed across the Atlantic, crossed Russia three times by train, and led a trekking expedition in Afghanistan. Sophie and Max are the proud owners of a Unimog, two Land Rovers, two auto rickshaws, and a Ford F250. They have authored nearly a dozen travel guides to destinations as diverse as Kashmir and South Sudan.

Andre is affectionately known in the of ÀFH DV RXU ´DGYHQWXUH DFFRXQWDQWµ GXH to his work with Overland Internation al, Inc., Overland Journal, and Adventure Trailers. He holds a B.A. in Business Management and has operated his own FRQVXOWLQJ ÀUP VLQFH -RLQLQJ WKH Overland International team in June 2008 helped to pull him away from his desk and has kindled his adventurous VSLULW +H FDQ RIWHQ EH IRXQG EHKLQG WKH ZKHHO RI D IRXU ZKHHO GULYH riding a motorcycle, or roaming the aisles of Overland Expo. Andre also enjoys gardening, mountain biking, and working on his 2010 Toy ota Tundra. A native of the Great White North (Canada…ay!), he now lives in Chino Valley, Arizona, with his wife Cathy, daughters Adriana and Maranda, two dogs, two cats, and Ozzy, the rock star canary.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

CONTRIBUTORS

Spring 2015

Greg Hatten

Ned Bacon

Greg is an outdoor adventurer, writer, DQG VSHFLDO LQWHUHVW VSHDNHU RQ WRS ics that apply wilderness experiences to management and leadership chal lenges in everyday life. After holding senior executive positions with Hall PDUN &DUGV DQG %L 0DUW KH IRXQGHG a successful consulting practice where he guides companies and clients through the dynamic world of con sumer products. His passion for building and rowing wooden boats, DQG Á\ ÀVKLQJ LQ WKH 3DFLÀF 1RUWKZHVW PRWLYDWHG KLP WR ODXQFK :RRGHQ%RDW $GYHQWXUHV ZKLFK RIIHUV SHUVRQDO KLJK HQG ZRRG ERDW ÀVKLQJ WULSV RQ WKH 0F.HQ]LH 5LYHU ,Q \HDUV DIWHU Martin Litton’s historic dory run of the Colorado River, Greg joined D WHDP RI ZRRG ERDW DÀFLRQDGRV WR UHFUHDWH /LWWRQ·V ERDWV DQG UXQ the mightiest of rivers. When he isn’t on the water he can be found exploring the Western U.S. backroads in his FJ40 Land Cruiser.

Growing up on a cattle ranch in Northern Nevada, Ned acquired his ÀUVW FDU D 5HQDXOW &9 DW DJH +H ERXJKW KLV ÀUVW IRXU ZKHHO GULYH a 1960 Willys CJ5, in high school and has been running around in the dirt ever since. In his 20s he trav eled with wrench and backpack to over 30 countries, including a drive across Africa and Europe from Jo hannesburg to London in a Bedford truck. More recent overland treks have included Venezuela, Peru, Vietnam, and Australia. Back home, Ned owned a mobile auto repair business before becom ing a freelance 4WD journalist. In 2010 and 2011, after 37 years of ownership, he prepped his trusty Willys for the Mexican 1000 vintage rally and came home with trophies both years. In Decem EHU 1HG DQG ORQJ WLPH FRPSDQLRQ .DW :HLFKHUW GHSDUWHG IRU D PXOWL \HDU ·URXQG WKH ZRUOG VRMRXUQ LQ &KDUORWWH WKHLU VW Syncro.

Del Albright

$V D UHWLUHG SURIHVVLRQDO ÀUHÀJKW er and Vietnam combat veteran, Del’s travels have taken him from Southeast Asia to Central and South America. Fueled by his passion for conservation and access to public lands for all, he has leveraged his endless energy and Master’s Degree in Environmental Planning to be come one of the country’s foremost authorities on land use. He is the director of operations for the BlueRibbon Coalition and has published articles in hundreds of SULQW DQG GLJLWDO PDJD]LQHV DQG ZHEVLWHV +H LV D 3$', FHUWLÀHG scuba diver, licensed professional forester, and current facilitator for the North American Motorized Recreation Council. In his spare time he authored and developed the Recreational Leadership Train ing Course and Volunteer Leader & Land Stewardship Workshop. ,Q 'HO ZDV LQGXFWHG LQWR WKH 2II 5RDG 0RWRUVSRUWV +DOO RI Fame for his advocacy efforts.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

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THE WORLDS LARGEST OVERLAND COMMUNITY

JOURNAL ENTRY: From the Editor

Chris Collard

Dream, Share, Execute

y wife Suzy’s good friend Teri passed away last month. They had known each other for 30 years, worked together, enjoyed regular lunch GDWHV DQG FRQÀGHG WKH SHUVRQDO GHWDLOV WKDW ERQG IULHQGV IRU OLIH 2QH GD\ 7HUL ZDV ÀQH WKH QH[W GD\ VKH ZDV GLDJQRVHG ZLWK FDQFHU DQG ÀYH ZHHNV ODWHU VKH ZDV JRQH $IWHU WKH IX neral we talked about trips Suzy had taken with Teri and her daughter Jami, and the things they would have done after Teri retired. It was quite sad, and presented a strong argument for the Latin aphorism carpe diem. Over the years I have lost several friends and family members to various ailments or accidents. With each loss, each heartbreak, I was reminded that I made the right deci VLRQ WR VWHS DZD\ IURP D VHFXUH \HDU MRE WR FKDVH D GUHDP I spent the last week poring through thousands of images, video clips, notes, and voice recordings from an adventure I could only have imagined a decade ago—somehow I survived jumping off the proverbial bridge. In this issue I have written about the sixth leg of the Ex peditions 7 trek around the world. The concept began as a “Someday I want to…” shared between friends at a barbeque in Salt Lake City, Utah. Greg Miller and Scott Brady, mere ac TXDLQWDQFHV DW WKH WLPH SRQWLÀFDWHG RQ WKH SRVVLELOLWLHV RI doing a big Land Cruiser adventure across the Americas. As their collective excitement gained momentum, it was decided that the route should not only include a circumnavigation of WKH SODQHW EXW DOVR XQREWDLQLXP D FRDVW WR FRDVW FURVVLQJ RI Antarctica. Though I joined them at the barbeque that night, I was busy sharing my own dreams with another guest, to travel through the forbidden land of Cuba, and was oblivious to

Overland Journal Spring 2015

what would ultimately transpire. Scott and Greg worked con tinually on the project for nearly a year, and when the dust (or snow) settled, they were standing on the edge of the Arctic Ocean in Alaska, with two Land Cruisers. I was fortunate to get swept along with the wave of Expeditions 7 for the Ant arctica segment, and must say that I consider this to be the ÀUVW WUXH H[SHGLWLRQ WKDW , KDYH SDUWLFL pated in. There were no border crossings I’ve previously or military checkpoints, but the logistics mentioned my were fairly complicated and there were a convictions plethora of natural hazards such as cre regarding acting YDVVHV VKLIWLQJ JODFLHUV DQG VXE ]HUR on your dreams. temperatures to contend with. I need to add As I selected the image of our team the importance at the South Pole, I couldn’t help but re of sharing those ÁHFW RQ DQG EH DSSUHFLDWLYH RI EHFRPLQJ dreams with part of their dream; and I am not alone. others. In the past three years, nearly 30 others have joined Greg and Scott on their exploits, each of whom ZLOO FHUWDLQO\ EH VSLQQLQJ ORQJ FDPSÀUH \DUQV WR WKHLU JUDQG children someday about, “I remember when we crossed…” or, “We were in the Kalahari Desert and…” I’ve previously mentioned my convictions regarding act ing on your dreams, even when they might push your personal comfort boundaries. I need to add the importance of sharing WKRVH GUHDPV ZLWK RWKHUV³PD\EH D FR ZRUNHU WKH 836 JX\ or someone enjoying your next barbeque session. If it comes to fruition, invite another to join you. I’m working on plans for Cuba this month and have de cided to ask friend and contributor Pablo Rey to join me. I hope to hire a Ural with a sidecar, or a classic 1950’s American convertible. It’s a pipe dream, yes, but when I passed the idea by Pablo he said, “Muy bien, vamos.” As Greg and Scott have done with Expeditions 7, I want to share these memories with a friend—maybe several. As far as I know we only get one JR DURXQG LQ WKLV VKRUW OLIH :KDW ZLOO \RX EH GRLQJ ÀYH ZHHNV from now? Follow your aspirations and share them with someone; you never know where the journey will take you.

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Overland Journal Spring 2015

FIELD TESTED By Christophe Noel

t’s nearly impossible to slip on a pair of Randolph Engineering HGU4/P Aviator sunglasses and not feel compelled to check your VL[ IRU LQERXQG ERJLHV 7KH RIÀFLDO VXSSOLHU WR WKH 8 6 PLOLWDU\ since 1982, the company’s sunglasses are also favored by NASA person QHO VXEPDULQHUV DQG GLVFHUQLQJ H\HZHDU DÀFLRQDGRV WKH ZRUOG RYHU 7KH\ are battle tested, prized by those who own them, and represent the best in homegrown American manufacturing. Founded in 1972 by Polish immigrants Jan Waszkiewicz and Stanley =DOHVNL WKH FRPSDQ\ TXLFNO\ HYROYHG WR SURGXFH 0,/ 63(& VXQJODVVHV as well as the tools used to create them. Over time this gave them the edge required to build products to the highest standards using only the best ma WHULDOV SRVVLEOH 7KHLU SURSULHWDU\ VROGHULQJ ÁX[ IRU H[DPSOH IDFLOLWDWHV such strong joining of the frame material that the joints carry a lifetime warranty. 7KH SUHFLVLRQ JURXQG PLQHUDO JODVV OHQVHV GHOLYHU WKH RSWLFDO FODULW\ GH manded by our nation’s best, and block 98 to 100 percent of harmful UV rays. Chemically tempered glass exceeds the stringent ANSI Z80.3 crite ria for impact and scratch resistance, and provides maximum durability. $ QRQ VOLS QRVH SDG LV SDLUHG WR ED\RQHW VW\OH WHPSOH SLHFHV GHVLJQHG WR HDVLO\ VOLGH LQWR ÁLJKW KHOPHWV DQG WKH XVH RI KLJK TXDOLW\ PHWDOV IHQGV RII rust and corrosion. Each pair goes through 200 manufacturing processes, most of which are done by hand. It is refreshing to see such attention to detail incorporated into today’s manufacturing world. Consider the inspiring story of two immigrants, and how they integrated themselves into the American dream and the defense of their adopted nation, and you have a product that is not just worth own ing, but one that can be worn with pride. randolphusa.com, 781-961-6070

AltRider Hemisphere Saddlebag We traveled to the Andes to test AltRider’s newest soft luggage system.

Randolph Engineering Aviator Sunglasses >L [LZ[ [OL /.< 7 VѝJPHS Z\UNSHZZLZ VM [OL ^VYSK»Z ÄULZ[ TPSP[HY` WLYZVUULS HUK ZLL ÄYZ[OHUK ^O` [OL` HYL ZV [Y\Z[LK

otorcycle soft luggage, a category of products once best described as unexciting, has been enjoying a resurgence of popularity and a welcomed infusion of new offerings. Al tRider’s Hemisphere Saddlebag system has been on the market for just a IHZ PRQWKV DQG ZH ZHUH IRUWXQDWH WR EH DPRQJ WKH ÀUVW WR WHVW LW³LQ WKH high peaks of the Ecuadorean Andes no less. &RPSULVHG RI D XQLTXH WZR SDUW V\VWHP WKH +HPLVSKHUH HPSOR\V a heavily constructed base structure paired to a waterproof main dry bag FRPSDUWPHQW 7KH FUHVFHQW VKDSHG SULPDU\ EDJ VOLSV LQWR D SHUPDQHQWO\ PRXQWHG ORZHU KROVWHU ZKLFK VLPSOLÀHV WKH UHPRYDO LQVWDOODWLRQ SURFHVV WKDW FRPSOLFDWHV PDQ\ RWKHU V\VWHPV 7KH OLWHU PDLQ EDJ LV FRQVWUXFWHG RI ZHOGHG YLQ\O FRDWHG SRO\HVWHU ,W IHDWXUHV D ZLGH UROO WRS FORVXUH WKDW not only seals out the elements, but also creates a wide opening that makes quick work of loading and unloading the bag. This system eliminates the need for zippers, which all too often get inundated with dust and debris. The lower holster, which is made of ballistic nylon for maximum dura bility, endured the worst abuses we could throw at it. The lower bag features WZR H[WHUQDO SRFNHWV IRU LWHPV EHVW OHIW ZLWKLQ UHDFK DQG ODUJH UHÁHFWLYH logos increase nighttime visibility. The Hemisphere’s ease of use, combined with cavernous storage capacity, made it one of our favorite motorcycle product discoveries of the year. Throughout torrential rains and other in dignities, the bags held fast and our gear remained dry and safe. The perfect VROXWLRQ IRU ELNHV RI DOO VL]HV WKH\ DUH DOVR D IUDFWLRQ RI WKH FRVW RI KDUG sided bags. Made in USA. altrider.com, 206-922-3618 Overland Journal Spring 2015

FIELD TESTED By Ned Bacon

General Grabber AT2 From Northern Nevada to Santiago, Chile, world nomad Ned Bacon puts General’s AT2 to a 12-country overland test.

hen preparing our 1987 VW Syncro for a trip to South $PHULFD , UHSODFHG LWV PXG WHUUDLQ WLUHV ZLWK *HQHUDO·V Grabber AT2 DOO WHUUDLQV 6\QFURV DUH NQRZQ WLUH HDWHUV DQG during the last eight years I’ve averaged 20,000 miles on various brands of PXG WHUUDLQV 7KRXJK ,·G KRSHG IRU LQFUHDVHG ORQJHYLW\ ,·YH JDLQHG PRUH than just mileage.

The Long Haul We are in Santiago, Chile, have been on the road for nine months, and FRYHUHG SOXV PLOHV³ SHUFHQW RI ZKLFK KDYH EHHQ RQ GLUW EDFN roads in Mexico and Central and South America. While I don’t have a tread depth gauge, I’d guess they have about a quarter of the original tread left. At this wear rate I feel the tires have enough life to take us over the An des into Argentina, Bolivia, and back to Chile…about 3,500 miles. Mileage wise, the AT2s have far surpassed anything I’ve run on the Syncro.

Durability Mileage wise, the General AT2s have far surpassed anything I’ve run on the Syncro.

Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy, Colombia. After about 20,000 miles the Generals still have an estimated one quarter of the original tread. This is considered excellent tread life for a VW Syncro.

I’d raced the AT2 on my Porsche rally car in Baja, Mexico, and knew they had the strength for the nasty roads of Latin America. The company KDV EHHQ KHDYLO\ LQYROYHG LQ RII URDG UDFLQJ DQG KDV XVHG WKH H[SHULHQFH gained for developing their light truck tires; the AT2 is a result of that re search. Thus far they have soldiered through rocks, broken glass, cactus, FREEOHVWRQHV WUDVK UDLQ VDQG PXG DQG SRWKROH ULGGOHG SDYHPHQW ,·YH had to plug two of them: one in Mexico (cactus thorn) and one in Nica ragua (rock gash in a sidewall). Eventually the sidewall cut wouldn’t hold a plug so I installed a tube—but the tire lives on.

Traction and Roundness ,·YH DOZD\V UXQ PXG WHUUDLQV RQ WKH YDQ , JXHVV EHFDXVH WKH\ ORRNHG cool and the Syncro needed all the help it could get in the traction depart ment. What I’ve learned is that the vehicle works much better, particularly LQ VDQG ZLWK OHVV DJJUHVVLYH DOO WHUUDLQV ,QVWHDG RI GLJJLQJ LQ GHHS DQG robbing horsepower, the AT2V NHHS WKH KHDY\ YDQ SRXQGV DÁRDW LQ WKH VRIW VWXII , ÀQG LW WUDYHOV IDUWKHU DQG ZLWK OHVV VWUDLQ ,·YH UXQ WR 40 psi on paved surfaces and 20 psi on the dirt. At these pressures I’ve not experienced cupping or uneven wear. Despite not having been rebalanced, they are still rolling smoothly with no vibrations or shimmying. This may be due to General’s use of segmented molds, which they claim ensures supe rior uniformity. Considering the conditions these tires have endured, I am extremely pleased with their stamina and can truly say the Grabber AT2s were a great choice. Fortunately, General has a plant in Ecuador and it should be easy to ÀQG D QHZ VHW EHIRUH ZH KHDG VRXWK WRZDUGV 7LHUUD GHO )XHJR generaltire.com

Overland Journal Spring 2015

FIELD TESTED By Scott Brady

Cooper Discoverer A/TW Cooper’s new all-terrain tire blends extreme winter traction with year-round performance.

Performance on ice is nearly that of a dedicated ^PU[LY [PYL HUK OHZ [OL ILULÄ[ VM MV\Y ZLHZVU utility and a 50,000-mile tread warranty. Clockwise from top: (ZZPZ[LK I` ( ;>»Z ^PU[LY [PYL [LJOUVSVN` [OPZ 20-year-old Range Rover still proves to be a champion in the snow. *VVWLY»Z :UV^NYVV]L KLZPNU HPKZ TLJOHUPJHS RL`PUN VU ZVM[ Z\YMHJLZ and maximizes snow-on-snow tractive force. Dual-draft tread groove angles reduce stone retention and improve lug integrity. Aggressive, full-width siping throughout the tread face ensures optimal wet and ice traction. The A/TW blends improved ice and snow performance with traditional all-terrain durability and longevity, delivering a true four-season tire.

ompetition is always healthy for an industry and ultimately for WKH FRQVXPHU 2YHU WKH SDVW WKUHH \HDUV VLJQLÀFDQW LPSURYH PHQWV LQ DOO WHUUDLQ WLUH GHVLJQ DQG FRPSRXQG GHYHORSPHQW KDYH UHVXOWHG LQ H[SRQHQWLDO DGYDQFHPHQWV LQ ERWK RQ WUDLO DQG RQ URDG performance. Traditionally, SUV and truck tires needed to be highly spe cialized. A tire that performed well in the rocks suffered greatly on ice and snow, compromises evidenced by their seasonal use. As of late, hybrid FRPSRXQGV DQG DGYDQFHG WUHDG GHVLJQV DOORZ PDQXIDFWXUHUV WR RIIHU DOO season tires that can live on your vehicle throughout the year. The A/TW was designed with this in mind, but with an emphasis on winter performance. Cooper’s engineers started with a completely new design and focused on the compound, for improved adhesion, and a tread construction that allowed for good mechanical keying in wet and icy con GLWLRQV 7KH RWKHU REMHFWLYH ZDV WR SURYLGH IRXU VHDVRQ WUDLO WUDFWLRQ DQG longer tread life. To test the A/TW we mounted a set of 215/85R16 tires RQ RXU XQPRGLÀHG 5DQJH 5RYHU &ODVVLF UHVWRUDWLRQ SURMHFW $ WDOO QDUURZ WLUH ZRUNV ZHOO IRU VWRFN H[SORUDWLRQ YHKLFOHV WKH WKLQ SURÀOH SUR vides optimal vertical load and minimal frontal resistance in light snow. The tires required a minimal balancing weight, and it was immediately apparent that the A/TW would be a quiet and comfortable tire. On the road, the tread blocks and carcass minimized felt impact and harshness from cracks and expansion joints. Under braking, the tires provided ex cellent grip and induced no notable wander. With those insights in mind, it was on to the trail and a fresh coating of Northern Arizona snow. I spent most of the trip driving on unplowed roads with snow depths ranging from a few inches to nearly a foot. I was impressed by the grip the tires provided at full operating pressure. The traction under acceleration and braking were both excellent, which would be expected from a tire ZLWK WKH 0 6 DQG VHYHUH ZHDWKHU UDWLQJ SHDN PRXQWDLQ VQRZÁDNH Cooper engineers revealed that the A/TW was so effective that it out performed most of its competition by over 20 percent, and was nearly 30 percent more effective than their excellent AT3 on ice and snow. Perfor PDQFH RQ LFH LV QHDUO\ WKDW RI D GHGLFDWHG ZLQWHU WLUH DQG KDV WKH EHQHÀW RI IRXU VHDVRQ XWLOLW\ DQG D PLOH WUHDG ZDUUDQW\ The crucial obstacle during testing was a fresh layer of snow on the Broken Arrow Trail near Sedona. I arrived in the thick of the storm and no other vehicles had yet ventured onto the red rock. I positioned the 5DQJH 5RYHU IRU D FOLPE DQG HQJDJHG ORZ UDQJH 8QGHU OLJKW DFFHOHUDWLRQ the vehicle inched forward, busting through the thin crust and pushing a KDOI IRRW RI VQRZ $W WKH ÀUVW OHGJH WKH IURQW WLUHV JULSSHG DQG SXOOHG DV the rear axle articulated over the uneven rock face. I was certain the tires ZRXOG VOLS EXW WKH ORQJ ZKHHOEDVH &ODVVLF FRQWLQXHG WR FOLPE 7KH UHDU traction control engaged and within seconds I crested the ledge. While it would be easy to credit the Range Rover or the driver for the easy ascent, I have no doubt it was the Coopers that made the grade. coopertire.com, 800-854-6288 Overland Journal Spring 2015

FIELD TESTED By Christophe Noel

MSR Mutha Hubba NX

$500

-YVT [OL KLZLY[Z VM <[HO [V [OL SH]H ÄLSKZ VM Iceland, we test MSR’s latest three-person tent.

This is a thoughtful design executed to MSR’s high standards, and we look forward to many adventures to come in the Mutha Hubba NX. Clockwise from top: 4:9»Z UL^ 4\[OH /\IIH 5? MLH[\YLZ H + TT +\YHZOPLSK WVS`\YL[OHUL HUK ZPSPJVU YPWZ[VW YHPU Å` HUK + IH[O[\I Z[`SL ÅVVY MVY TH_PT\T ^LH[OLY WYV[LJ[PVU ;OL UL^ TH[LYPHSZ OH]L NYLH[S` YLduced weight and bulk. The interior of the tent is spacious, bright, and feels inviting and warm. Machined aluminum stake points are durable and make X\PJR ^VYR VM [LUZPVU HKQ\Z[TLU[Z

Overland Journal Spring 2015

t goes without saying that not every overlander wants to sleep on the roof of their truck, or even in it for that matter. The traditional ground tent still has its advantages, and the latest LWHUDWLRQ RI WKH SRSXODU 065 0XWKD +XEED IXUWKHUV WKRVH EHQHÀWV LQ D OLJKWHU WRXJKHU DQG PRUH IHDWXUH ULFK PRGHO 7KHLU ODWHVW WKUHH person tent, the NX, was released in 2014. We’ve spent the better part of the last year testing it on two continents and in all sorts of weather, from friendly to foul. As expected, it has more than lived up WR LWV UHSXWDWLRQ DV RQH RI WKH EHVW WKUHH VHDVRQ WHQWV RQ WKH PDUNHW $OWKRXJK WKH SUHYLRXV 0XWKD +XEED ZDV IDU IURP ÁDZHG 065 GLG ÀQG ZD\V WR LPSURYH RQ LW PRVW QRWLFHDEO\ ZLWK WKH XVH RI QHZ materials. This version is constructed of 20D ripstop nylon, with 20D, 1200 mm Durashield polyurethane and silicon ripstop nylon XVHG IRU WKH UDLQ Á\ 7R VWULNH WKH GHOLFDWH EDODQFH EHWZHHQ GXUDELOLW\ DQG ORZ ZHLJKW WKH ÁRRU RI WKH WHQW LV ' PP SRO\XUHWKDQH ripstop nylon. Structural integrity is provided by DAC Featherlight 16/ DOXPLQXP SROH VHJPHQWV MRLQHG WR PDFKLQHG DOXPLQXP KXEV D GHVLJQ 065 KHOSHG GHYHORS DQG UHÀQH ORQJ EHIRUH LW ZDV FRP PRQSODFH 0DFKLQHG DOXPLQXP VWDNH SRLQWV DQG QLFNHO SODWHG ]LSSHU sliders add to the detailed improvements that make the new Mutha Hubba NX the next generation. ,Q ÀHOG XVH WKH QHZ 1; KDV SURYHQ WR EH H[FHSWLRQDOO\ VWRUP ZRUWK\ WKDQNV LQ SDUW WR LWV IXOO\ WDSHG VHDPV RQ WKH Á\ DQG EDWKWXE ÁRRU 7KH HQWLUH VWUXFWXUH FDQ EH SLWFKHG GUXP WLJKW DQG DPSOH VWDNH points helped to defend it against Iceland’s notorious winds and rain storms. The interior space appears larger than its listed 41.5 square IHHW GXH ODUJHO\ WR WZR RSSRVLQJ YHUWLFDO ZDOOV DQG WZR IXOO VL]H GRRUV What makes the new Mutha Hubba NX truly remarkable is its small packed size and impossibly low weight. At only 4 pounds, 13 RXQFHV LW ZHLJKV OHVV WKDQ PDQ\ WZR SHUVRQ LI QRW RQH SHUVRQ WHQWV It also packs down to a tiny bundle at just 21 inches in length and 7 LQFKHV LQ GLDPHWHU³VPDOO HQRXJK WR ÀW LQWR D PRWRUF\FOH SDQQLHU yet almost large enough to sleep four people. With two large vesti bules for gear storage, it is a comfortable retreat when good weather abandons camp. This is a thoughtful design executed to MSR’s high standards, and we look forward to many adventures to come in the Mutha Hubba NX. msrgear.com, 206-505-9500

Overland Journal Spring 2015

OVERLAND NEWS By Chris Collard

Backcountry Discovery Routes Membership Program Join, support a great cause, and plan your next adventure.

he Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide 9'(* ZKLFK ZDV ÀUVW released in 1998, has long been revered as an indispensable resource for the overlander. Tom Sheppard, DQ H[ 5R\DO $LU )RUFH WHVW SLORW DQG renowned expert on North Africa travel, spent the last year working with Overland Journal’s founding edi tor Jonathan Hanson to revamp the VDEG for the summer 2015 release of Edition 4. 2SHQ DQ\ SDJH DQG \RX ZLOO ÀQG GHWDLOHG LQIRUPDWLRQ on subjects as varied as border crossings, team selection, and leadership skills. Flip to the chapter on shipping vehicles, where Sheppard shares his knowledge on everything from how to secure your Land Rover D90 in a shipping container, to typical costs, expected time frames, potential roadblocks; included is an example of a bill of lading. Thumb to the sec WLRQ RQ OXEULFDQWV DQG UHDG KLV LQGXVWU\ TXDOLW\ DQDO\VLV RQ HQJLQH DQG differential oils. Other chapters delve into the availability and storage of food, fuel, and water, and communicating via VHF, UHF, and satellite. The VDEG is one of the most comprehensive guides we’ve seen, and it is not likely that you will read the entire 600 pages. Sheppard says,

e’ve featured Backcountry Discovery Routes’ (BDR) adventure videos and trail maps on numerous occa sions, and for good reason: They are quickly becom LQJ WKH JR WR UHVRXUFH IRU DGYHQWXULQJ LQ WKH :HVW :RUNLQJ ZLWK Noren Films, Butler Maps, and Touratech, BDR has documented and shared their transects of Utah, Washington, Colorado, and Ari ]RQD 7KHLU QHZ ÀOP DQG PDS Idaho Backcountry Discovery Route, premiered in February and plans are in the works for BDR routes in California, New Mexico, and Wyoming. ,Q ODWH %'5 D F QRQ SURÀW ZLWK D FKDUWHU WR SUH serve public access to backcountry tracks, announced a new mem bership program. There are three levels: bronze, silver, and gold, each of which includes free swag and generous discounts from %'5 VSRQVRUV VXFK DV ([2IÀFLR DQG %ODFN 'RJ &\FOH :RUNV 7KRXJK WKH RUJDQL]DWLRQ IRFXVHV RQ $'9 DQG GXDO VSRUW ULGLQJ %'5 URXWHV DUH SUHGRPLQDWHO\ WZR WUDFNV DFFHVVLEOH WR IRXU ZKHHO drive vehicles. In 2008, during a trek from the Mexican border to Canada in a Jeep JK Wrangler, we traced some of the early BDR trails through Oregon and Washington. If you live in the West, or simply want to explore it someday, BDR maps are a great resource for trip planning. Your membership will save you some money on needed gear, support a great cause, and help keep our public lands open for public use. backcountrydiscoveryroutes.com, 206-383-6233

9HKLFOH GHSHQGHQW Expedition Guide Tom Sheppard, the world’s guru of expedition travel, releases Edition 4. “If you try, by the time you’ve done it you’ll be too old to go on the expedition.” We suggest you identify areas where you have questions or need a refresher, absorb what you can, and put it to practical use on your next trip…soon. The Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide, along with Tom Sheppard’s other books, are available at desertwinds.co.uk, 44-0-1462-768-797

Details are informative, easy to read, and maintain a consistent format throughout the book. Overland Journal Spring 2015

OVERLAND NEWS By Christophe Noel

2015 Jeep Renegade 1LLW»Z ÄYZ[ LU[Y` PU[V [OL ZTHSS :<= JH[LNVY` WYVTPZLZ [V YLHSPNU consumer expectations for backcountry performance.

Photo courtesy Jeep/Sinuhe Xavier

Where the Renegade really stands out against the JVTWL[P[PVU PZ ^P[O P[Z JVTIPUH[PVU VM Vќ OPNO^H` HW[P[\KL ]HS\L HUK M\LS LѝJPLUJ` Clockwise from top: ;OLYL»Z UV TPZ[HRPUN [OL UL^ 9LULNHKL MVY HU`[OPUN but a Jeep. A best-in-class full-color control panel helps manage information, LU[LY[HPUTLU[ HUK KYP]L Z`Z[LTZ 1LLW»Z PU[LYPVY YLÄULTLU[Z OH]L PTWYV]LK V]LY [OL `LHYZ" [OL 9LULNHKL»Z HWWVPU[TLU[Z ULHYS` YP]HS [OL .YHUK *OLYVRLL

Overland Journal Spring 2015

n what can only be described as a fairly radical departure from their usual offerings, Jeep’s new Renegade marks their ÀUVW HQWU\ LQWR WKH UDSLGO\ JURZLQJ FDWHJRU\ RI VPDOO 689V Strategically designed to be the most capable platform in the seg ment, the company’s engineering team set out to infuse their latest vehicle with as much Jeep DNA as possible. The exterior design UHWDLQV WKH EUDQG·V URXQG OLJKWV VHYHQ VORW JULOO DQG RWKHU LFRQLF visual cues, but there is more to the Renegade than familiar shapes DQG FOHYHU PDUNHWLQJ FDOO RXWV Available in Sport, Latitude, Limited, and Trailhawk trim levels, the Renegade is currently sold in North America with two pow HUWUDLQ FRQÀJXUDWLRQV WKH 0XOWL$LU OLWHU WXUERFKDUJHG F\OLQ GHU HQJLQH KS SDLUHG WR D VSHHG PDQXDO WUDQVPLVVLRQ RU WKH 7LJHUVKDUN D QDWXUDOO\ DVSLUDWHG OLWHU HQJLQH KS PDWHG WR D VSHHG DXWRPDWLF WUDQVPLVVLRQ )RU WKH DGYHQWXUH GULYHU WKH 7UDLO hawk will undoubtedly hold the most allure. It features an Active 'ULYH DOO ZKHHO GULYH V\VWHP LQFKHV RI JURXQG FOHDUDQFH LP SUHVVLYH DSSURDFK DQG GHSDUWXUH DQJOHV DV ZHOO DV WUDLO worthy tow hooks and protective body panels to shield the vehicle’s YLWDOV 7KH 6HOHF 7HUUDLQ WUDFWLRQ FRQWURO KDV VHWWLQJV IRU DXWR VDQG snow, mud, and rock, and is complemented by Jeep’s hill descent control. Hill Start Assist is available on Sport models with manual transmissions. ,Q DQ HIIRUW WR GHOLYHU WKH RSHQ DLU H[SHULHQFH QRUPDOO\ UH served for Wrangler owners, the optional My Sky roof system per mits the removal of two panels, revealing dual apertures for a near FRQYHUWLEOH WRS IHHO 7KH IXOO FRORU FRQWURO SDQHO LQFOXGHG RQ DOO trim levels) is customizable, and Jeep’s Uconnect system with Blue tooth facilitates pairing mobile devices for information and enter tainment needs. Where the Renegade really stands out against the competition LV ZLWK LWV FRPELQDWLRQ RI RII KLJKZD\ DSWLWXGH YDOXH DQG IXHO HI ÀFLHQF\ :LWK EHWWHU WKDQ PSJ UDWLQJV DFURVV WKH UDQJH D VWDUWLQJ price point of just $17,999, and performance representative of the Jeep legacy, the Renegade is poised to carve out a sizable portion of market share. If the Cherokee is any indicator of future success, we anticipate seeing plenty of Renegades on the road––and trail. jeep.com, 877-426-5337

Overland Journal Spring 2015

OVERLAND NEWS

By Scott Brady Photography courtesy of Land Rover

The Land Rover Discovery Sport We explore Iceland in Land Rover’s newest Discovery, the Sport.

he new Discovery is important for Land Rover and for the ad venture traveler, but not neces sarily in ways immediately obvious. I would submit that this newest Land Rover is criti cal to not only the future of the brand, but also to the expansion of its global platform offerings, such as a rugged replacement for WKH /5 DQG D 1RUWK $PHULFDQ 6SHFLÀFDWLRQ (NAS) Defender. Strong Discovery Sport Overland Journal Spring 2015

sales mean better overall fuel economy aver ages (CAFE), which allows for the produc tion of larger, higher GVWR vehicles. While WKHVH DUH FHUWDLQO\ VLGH EHQHÀWV WKH 'LVFRYHU\ Sport is credible in its own right. Early speculation pointed at the Discov ery Sport being the replacement for the Dis covery 4 (LR4), but it is actually positioned to take the place of the Freelander (LR2), and in D VLJQLÀFDQWO\ PRUH UHÀQHG DQG FDSDEOH ZD\

Having tested both the original Freelander and LR2 on the trail, I can assure you that this new platform is markedly better on the dirt and on the tarmac. The vehicle is entire ly redesigned and shares only a few unibody components with the Evoque, and The vehicle inspires JVUÄKLUJL HUK MLLSZ nothing with the current Discov competent, athletic, ery 4 or outgoing and safe, exactly LR2. Most nota what we want from ble is the empha an AWD wagon. sis that has been placed on trail and highway performance, while at the same time increasing overall re ÀQHPHQW FRPIRUW DQG FDSDFLW\ I arrived in Reykjavík, Iceland, for test ing and was shuttled to a waiting Discovery. It was in entirely stock form, save a set of studded winter tires. Conditions were se vere by most standards. The previous day had laid down several inches of fresh snow over glare ice and most of the area’s gravel roads had been closed. However, after Land Rover convinced authorities of the vehicle’s capability, we were allowed to pass. Within minutes of taking the wheel we were trav eling at respectable speeds over the worst surface conditions that Iceland could toss our direction. This type of road testing re vealed the vehicle’s exceptional composure on mixed surfaces, its longer wheelbase and wider track providing stability over frost heaves, cattle guards, potholes, and icy ruts. 7KH 1RUWK $PHULFDQ VSHFLÀFDWLRQ WXUERFKDUJHG OLWHU , ZKLFK SURGXFHV KRUVHSRZHU DQG OE IW WRUTXH LV ERWK VXIÀFLHQWO\ SRZHUIXO DQG UHIUHVKLQJO\ IUXJDO +DUQHVVLQJ WKH RXWSXW LV D VSHHG automatic transmission, and although the YHKLFOH GRHV QRW KDYH D WZR VSHHG WUDQVIHU FDVH ÀUVW JHDU LV UHVSHFWDEO\ ORZ 7KRXJK , initially disliked the idea of paddle shifters on a 4WD—the Sport’s are conveniently positioned on the steering wheel—I have come to appreciate the immediacy of gear changes and never needing to remove a hand from the primary control. The initial

test route convinced me of the vehicle’s FRPSHWHQFH DV DQ DOO ZHDWKHU FRPPXWHU DQG ORQJ GLVWDQFH FUXLVHU ,W LV FHUWDLQO\ RQ par or better than a comparable Audi or BMW. However, what really separated this Land Rover from the crowd was its perfor mance once things got interesting—when we left the maintained surfaces and started H[SORULQJ WKH PXGG\ VQRZ FRYHUHG ,FHODQ dic highlands. In technical terrain the Discovery Sport was a pleasant surprise, easily outperform ing the LR2 and its direct competitors. Approach and departure angles of 25 and 31 degrees are respectable for a crossover, though the longer wheelbase has compro mised breakover angle. One of the more notable features is the vehicle’s fording GHSWK D IXOO IHHW PP :H YHULÀHG WKHVH VSHFLÀFDWLRQV DQG PRUH GXULQJ WZR days of trail driving that included deep snow and icy conditions near Þingvellir, Iceland’s original parliament (circa 930 AD). What impressed me most about this Land Rover was its stability on a wide variety of terrain. 7KH YHKLFOH LQVSLUHV FRQÀGHQFH DQG IHHOV competent, athletic, and safe...exactly what we want from an AWD wagon. While the Discovery Sport is not suited for extreme terrain, nor is it an overlanding UHSODFHPHQW IRU WKH 'LVFRYHU\ models), it is the perfect option as a daily driver, touring vehicle, or light adventure platform. My time with this Land Rover impressed two critical insights to the fu WXUH RI WKH EUDQG 7KH ÀUVW LV WKDW /DQG Rover will remain committed to building KLJK TXDOLW\ XWLOLW\ YHKLFOHV ZLWK EHVW LQ class capability. Second is the company’s strategy for North American distribution, which includes Range Rover, Discovery, and Defender. The Discovery Sport is an exciting new platform, and we are enthusi astic about the prospect of a new Defender for the U.S. market; it is some of the most promising automotive news we have heard in years. landroverusa.com, 800-637-6837

The dash is clean and relatively clutter free. All controls are easy to access and the paddle shifters proved surprisingly useful on both road HUK [YHPS >OPSL 0 Z[PSS WYLMLY H TVYL \[PSP[HYPHU HWproach, the Discovery is certainly a comfortable place to pass the miles. A third row is unusual in this size of vehicle, but will prove useful to larger families. For those interested in adventures M\Y[OLY HÄLSK HSS YV^Z MVSK ÅH[ ^OPJO HSSV^Z MVY generous gear stowage. Opposite: The wilds of 0JLSHUK ^LYL [OL WLYMLJ[ IHJRKYVW MVY V\Y [LZ[PUN of the Discovery Sport—the type of environment every Discovery was designed for.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

OVERLAND NEWS By Alfonse Palaima

:WLJPÄJH[PVUZ 2015 Triumph Tiger 800 ࠮ ,UNPUL! SPX\PK JVVSLK PUSPUL [YPWSL ࠮ +PZWSHJLTLU[! JJ ࠮ 6\[W\[! OW SI M[ [VYX\L ࠮ ;YHUZTPZZPVU! ZWLLK ࠮ *S\[JO! ^L[ T\S[P WSH[L ࠮ -\LS JHWHJP[`! NHS ࠮ >LPNO[ ^L[ ! SI ࠮ -YVU[ ^OLLS! PU JHZ[ PU ZWVRL ࠮ -YVU[ Z\ZWLUZPVU! >7 VY :OV^H TT MVYRZ ࠮ -YVU[ [YH]LS! TT ࠮ 9LHY ^OLLS! PU JHZ[ PU ZWVRL ࠮ 9LHY Z\ZWLUZPVU! >7 VY :OV^H HKQ\Z[HISL TVUVZOVJR ࠮ 9LHY [YH]LS! TT ࠮ -YVU[ IYHRLZ! [^PU TT 5PZZHU 2-piston ࠮ 9LHY IYHRLZ! ZPUNSL TT 5PZZHU 1-piston

Photography courtesy of Triumph

nveiled at the 2014 EICMA show in Milan, Italy, Triumph’s new Ti ger 800 comes to us in four vari ants under two model lines: the XR and the XC. The former favors the pavement, while the latter skews towards dirt roads and grab bing our attention. During the course of two GD\V DQG KXQGUHGV RI KLJK VSHHG NLORPHWHUV LQ Spain, we twisted the throttle of the four Ti gers over coastal roads, ruts, and roundabouts. In the end, if I wasn’t still suffering from jetlag, , WKLQN , ZDV GUXQN RQ 7LJHU .RRO $LG 7KH 7L ger has taken a giant leap into the future, and gets my early vote for segment champ. With several model designations available, ELNH VSHFLÀF IHDWXUHV QHHG D OLWWOH VRUWLQJ RXW $V VWDQGDUG ÀWPHQW DOO KDYH FUXLVH FRQWURO D ÀUVW LQ WKH PLG ZHLJKW DGYHQWXUH VHJPHQW switchable traction control and ABS, and a IXHO HIÀFLHQW ULGH E\ ZLUH SDFNDJH 7KH ´[µ VXIÀ[ DV LQ WKH ;5[ DQG ;&[ LQGLFDWHV WKH XS VSHF YHUVLRQ WKHVH RIIHU ULGHU VHOHFWDEOH throttle response, traction control, and ABS FRQÀJXUDWLRQV $OVR QHZ LV D IRXU SRVLWLRQ VDGGOH ZKLFK can be adjusted up or down and tipped fore DQG DIW 7KH URDG JRLQJ ;5 KDV D VDGGOH KHLJKW of 31.9 inches, yet can easily be pumped up to 32.7 inches, or dropped to 31.1 inches with an optional seat. The height of the XC ranges from 33.1 to 33.9 inches, the optional saddle

Tale of Four Tigers The 2015 Triumph Tiger 800 gets wired. GURSSLQJ WKDW ÀJXUH WR LQFKHV $OO DUH D WZR SLHFH GHVLJQ DQG IHDWXUH D ÁDW FRQWRXU allowing for easy migration rearwards when WKH WHUUDLQ JHWV YHUWLFDO 8QGHU VHDW VWRUDJH LV large enough for water bottles or an enhanced toolkit, and there is a designated space for a ' ORFN The suspension further separates the XR IURP WKH ;& 7KH ;5 LV ÀWWHG ZLWK D 6KRZD package with black, 43 mm USD forks and a SUHORDG DGMXVWDEOH PRQRVKRFN 7KH ;& UH ceived the royal treatment, with 43 mm WP forks and longer suspension travel (220 mm). Rebound and compression damping are ad MXVWDEOH YLD HDV\ WR UHDFK FOLFNHUV RQ WKH WRS RI the fork tubes. The rear monoshock unit has an adjustable WP with 215 mm of travel. Another difference between model groups LV WKH FKDLQ GULYHQ ZKHHO VHW EHQHDWK 7KRXJK WKH ;5 LV ÀWWHG ZLWK FDVW ZKHHOV DQG WKH ;& JHWV VSRNHV ERWK OLQHV KDYH LQFK UHDU KRRSV 7KH ;5 XVHV D LQFK IURQW ZKHHO ZKLOH WKH ;& JHWV D WUDLO ZRUWK\ LQFKHU 7KH

XR is shod with Pirelli Scorpion Trails for the occasional departure from the pavement; the XC has the slightly more aggressive Bridges tone Trail Wings. %H\RQG WKH WZR SRVLWLRQ KDQGOHEDU DUH D new digital/analog dashboard and ride con trols. Though the panel includes the usual tach, speedometer, trip meter, and gear position in dicator and clocks, on the left edge is the most important addition—the “M,” or mode, but WRQ 0RGH RSWLRQV DUH 5RDG 2II URDG DQG XVHU SURJUDPPDEOH 5LGHU PRGH 7KH ODWWHU RI fers a personalized preset with your preferred ABS, traction control, and throttle map set tings. Because some settings require a full stop to engage or disengage, this mode change is not entirely hot swappable. In the event of key cycling, mode defaults back to Road for safety reasons; a double push of the “M” button re turns the mode to your preselected settings. If the engine is stalled, or killed at the switch only, it will remain in the selected mode, which is great news for trail riders. Overland Journal Spring 2015

%HQHDWK WKH SODVWLFV LV DQ XSGDWHG OLTXLG FRROHG 800cc inline triple. Triumph claims an increase IURP WR PSJ D SHUFHQW LPSURYHPHQW over last year’s model. During our ride, how The new Tiger is ever, we observed more easy to ride, friendly GRZQ WR HDUWK QXPEHUV to operate, and of 35 to 38 mpg. Atop is catching up to WKH KRUVHSRZHU HQ cutting-edge leaders JLQH VLWV D ODUJH JDOORQ in the market. fuel tank. Claimed wet weights average 478.4 pounds across the four models, about 25 pounds less than the BMW F800GS, while carrying nearly a gallon more fuel. A long list of accessories is available, including WZR VWDJH KHDWHG JULSV WLUH SUHVVXUH VHQVRUV WKH bike comes prewired), fog lights, tank bag, folding shift pedal, bar risers, and saddlebags. Carryover accessories include frame and fork protectors, tall er windscreens, and headlight protectors. 1

The Bottom Line

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Capable of just about any type of ADV travel, from parking lots to mountain passes, the new Ti ger is easy to ride, friendly to operate, and is catch LQJ XS WR FXWWLQJ HGJH OHDGHUV LQ WKH PDUNHW 7DU JHWLQJ WKH PLG VL]H ELNH EX\HU 7ULXPSK LV RIIHULQJ PRUH FKRLFHV IRU WKH EXGJHW FRQVFLRXV FRQVXPHU Baseline for the Tiger 800 XR is just $11,399, while the XCx tops the lineup at $13,499. Color choices DUH 3KDQWRP %ODFN &U\VWDO :KLWH DQG IRU WKH XS spec “x” models, Caspian Blue. If you’re a fan of the Triumph triple howl and want to get far away from civilization, a new Tiger may be the bike for you. triumphmotorcycles.com, 888-284-6288

1. ;OL *HSPMVYUPH SPRL ZV\[OLYU JVHZ[ VM :WHPU ^HZU»[ only chosen for the seasonally warm weather and twisty mountain roads, but also for its proximity to [OL JOHZZPZ KL]LSVWTLU[ [LHT»Z MHJPSP[PLZ PU ULHYI` Barcelona. 2. Both the XR and XRx models feature WP suspension components and a little more ground clearance. The XRx model comes standard with crash bars and an aluminum sump guard. 4. An optional waterproof, top-loading Expedition [V\YPUN S\NNHNL ZL[ VɈLYZ TVYL JHYY`PUN JHWHJP[` [OHU ;YP\TWO»Z ZPKL SVHKPUN (K]LU[\YL WHUUPLYZ Both include a “one key” locking mechanism. 5. Available multi-temperature heated grip and fog lamp controls mount to the left hand cluster. 6. The digital/analog dashboard is clean and easy to read. The “M” button to the left is your passport [V ÄULS` [\ULK (): [YHJ[PVU JVU[YVS HUK [OYV[[SL maps. 7. ;YHPS YLHK` ]LYZ\Z Z[YLL[ ZH]]`! PUJO JHZ[ ]LYsus 21-inch spoke wheels—the XC and XR models stand proud for their intended use.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

OVERLAND NEWS By Chris Collard

Sportsmobile Classic As the 50-year career of Ford’s E-Series van comes to a close, Sportsmobile saves the day with the Classic.

<ZPUN *(+ ZWLJPÄJH[PVUZ MYVT -VYK :WVY[ZTVIPSL LUNPULLYZ ^LYL HISL [V create bodylines that mirror the original Econoline. Though it is 2 inches wider that the OE van, overall width of the vehicle remains the same. A look inside the Classic reveals an interior that is nothing short of luxurious.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

or those of us that appreciate the “van life” concept of WUDYHO \RX PXVW DGPLW WKDW 6SRUWVPRELOH·V (FRQROLQH IRXU wheel drive conversions are particularly cool. Every time my wife and I see one, we mention how nice it would be to roll around the backcountry with our house right behind the front seats—the Sportsmobile is actually my dream Baja The Sportsmobile rig. They are warm and dry, have plenty of room is warm and dry, IRU JHDU KDYH D SOHWKRUD RI EXLOW LQ DPHQLWLHV DQG has plenty of DUH KLJO\ FDSDEOH 'XULQJ WKH FRPSDQ\·V \HDU room for gear, a history they have camperized over 17,000 vans, plethora of built-in PRUH WKDQ RI ZKLFK ZHUH IRXU ZKHHO GULYH amenities, and is and Econoline chassis. When Ford announced highly capable. they were discontinuing the Econoline, hearts sank throughout the overlanding world. All is not lost though, as Ford ZLOO VWLOO RIIHU WKH ´FXW D ZD\µ YHUVLRQ WKDW LV XVHG LQ DPEXODQFH DQG FDU go van conversions. )RUWXQDWHO\ 6SRUWVPRELOH KDV UHVSRQGHG WR )RUG GURSSLQJ WKH ( Series legacy. This spring, they will go into full production on the latest iteration of this iconic vehicle, appropriately called the Classic. With out anything behind the front seats, Sportsmobile West’s engineers were given a blank canvas for designing the living and occupant space. After several versions were considered, they elected to create a new body that was nearly identical, at least aesthetically, to the OE version. 7KH ERG\ LV PROGHG IURP WKLFN GXUDEOH ÀEHUJODVV DQG WKRXJK LW LV 2 inches wider than the original, it does not increase the overall dimen sions of the vehicle. A big dividend is an additional 4 inches of interior width, which is appreciable when it might be your condo for weeks or months on end. For enhanced visibility, the factory taillights will be re tained and incorporated into the new bumper assembly. 7KH &ODVVLF ZLOO VSRUW D KHDY\ GXW\ VSHHG 7RUTXH 6KLIW DXWRPDWLF WUDQVPLVVLRQ PDWHG WR WKH YHQHUDEOH $WODV ,, WZR VSHHG WUDQVIHU FDVH DQG D OLWHU 9 ZLOO VLW XQGHU WKH HQJLQH FRZO 6SRUWVPRELOH ZLOO FRQ tinue the use of Dynatrac ProRock 60 front axles, Betts leaf springs, and Fox steering stabilizers, all of which are made in California. The interior will be nothing less than the opulent comfort we have come to expect IURP 6SRUWVPRELOH PRGHUQ HOHFWURQLFV DQG DSSOLDQFHV ZHOO GHVLJQHG cabinetry, and durable construction. 6SRUWVPRELOH KDV EXLOW IRXU ZKHHO GULYH FRQYHUVLRQV IRU ´KRPH less” clients everywhere from Japan to Qatar, and having personally used them during treks around the U.S. and Mexico, I am excited to see the tradition continue with the Classic. sportsmobile.com, 559-233-8267

Overland Journal Spring 2015

The White Desert The Expeditions 7 team crosses Antarctica, the coldest, driest, and windiest continent on the planet. 43 By Chris Collard Photography by Chris Collard and Scott Brady

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Beyond the windscreen I can barely make out the edge of the hood; the rest is white upon white.

When whiteout conditions reduced visibility to a few meters, we navigated using a GPS breadcrumb track. Opposite, clockwise from left: Due to the ZOVY[ [PTL ^PUKV^ IL[^LLU [OL 0S`\ZOPU»Z [V\JOKV^U HUK KLWHY[\YL [OL (3*0 HPYIHZL H[ 5V]VSHaHYL]ZRH`H ILJHTL H Å\YY` VM HJ[P]P[` ;OL 0S`\ZOPU 03 76 doubles as a cargo and passenger carrier. Depending on the ratio, seats are installed or removed, and the cargo area expanded or reduced. With the addition of six 200-liter barrels of Jet A-1, our two Arctic Trucks Toyota Hilux ]LOPJSLZ ^LYL HISL [V JHYY` H JVTIPULK [V[HS VM SP[LYZ ^OPJO WYV]PKLK an approximage range of 2,100 kilometers. Opening page: The Expeditions [LHT [OYLHKZ [OLPY ^H` [OYV\NO [OL ZLYYH[LK JYHNZ VM 8\LLU 4H\K 3HUK Overland Journal Spring 2015

, JODQFH DW WKH WKHUPRPHWHU LW UHDGV & DQG WKHQ DW *tVOL my driving partner for the past 12 days. I rub my face and squint WLJKWO\ LQ DQ DWWHPSW WR VWLPXODWH EORRG ÁRZ WR P\ H\HV )RU WKH ODVW WKUHH KRXUV ZH KDYH EHHQ WUDQVÀ[HG WR D WKLQ OLQH RQ RXU GPS screen, which is zoomed in as far as it can go. Outside is a world of crevasses and snow bridges. The track line is our guide, our chaperone, our god, at least for the moment. Without it we stop and wait for clear skies, which could be days away. $URXQG P\ ZDLVW LV D FOLPELQJ KDUQHVV DQG D IRRW URSH ,I we get stuck and need to get out, we’ll tether ourselves to the vehicle. We’ve been traveling for nearly 30 hours straight and are virtually in a state of delirium. Gísli was at the wheel when we entered this bleached hell. When the horizon disappeared I’d leaned out the window in an attempt to locate our previous WUDFN DQG JLYH *tVOL KDQG VLJQDO GLUHFWLRQV 7KLV KDG EHHQ D IXWLOH HIIRUW ,·YH QRZ EHHQ GULYLQJ IRU PLQXWHV DQG DP EHDW GRJ tired. My attention darts from the LCD to the windscreen and back, and I pray for this to be over. This is the White Desert, Antarctica, the coldest, driest, and windiest place on the planet. I rub my face again and force my eyes back to the screen.

45 Two weeks earlier, Scott Brady, Greg Miller, and I stepped off DQ ,O\XVKLQ ,/ FDUJR SODQH RQWR D IRRW UXQZD\ RI LFH 7KH ÁLJKW ZDV HYHU\WKLQJ ZH KDG EHHQ ZDUQHG RI FUDPSHG KRW WKHQ FROG ZLWK DQ HOL[LU RI DGUHQDOLQH ÁRRGLQJ RXW RI WKH DLU GXFWV washing the occupants with anticipation. The plane was Russian built, the pilots were from its motherland, and there were only a IHZ VPDOO SRUWKROH ZLQGRZV ,W ZDV D VL[ KRXU ÁLJKW IURP &DSH Town, South Africa, to the Antarctic Logistics Centre Interna tional air base (ALCI) at Novolazarevskaya Station (Novo), where a Southern Ocean cyclone had grounded all aircraft for the past three days. :H KDG EHHQ JLYHQ WKH JUHHQ OLJKW WR Á\ OHVV WKDQ KRXUV earlier. It was a “go,” and if the weather closed in on Novo we could have a problem. The Ilyushin had enough fuel to get there and back, but fuel for the back OHJ ZDV VWRUHG LQ OLWHU GUXPV in the cargo bay. If we breached the halfway point we were com mitted to land, regardless of weather, on a runway that was not exactly straight, nor was it level. I asked a fellow passenger who KDG EHHQ RQ WKLV ÁLJKW PRUH WKDQ RQFH DERXW WKH ODQGLQJ 6KH VDLG “I wouldn’t worry, the pilots sip a few shots of vodka to relax… they do this all the time.” I pulled my lap belt tightly to my waist and reassured myself that she was kidding.

We climbed down a long steel ladder and were greeted by Gísli Karel Elísson, Arctic Trucks’ Antarctic workshop manager and one of the few people on the planet who could be considered DQ H[SHUW RQ YHKLFOH EDVHG SRODU WUDYHO :H ZHUH WKH ÀUVW FRQWDFW they’d had with the outside world in more than a week and the DLUÀHOG ZDV EX]]LQJ ZLWK DFWLYLW\ *URXQG FUHZV RUJDQL]HG ORDGLQJ zones as a forklift loomed calculatedly at bay for its payload like a praying mantis anticipating its next meal. The belly of the plane parted, the loading ramp settled to the ice, and the concert be gan. Out came pallets of food, barrels of fuel, duffel bags, wooden crates of various sizes and shapes, and Pelican cases bearing “frag ile” and “keep frozen” stickers. Keep frozen? That didn’t seem to SRVH D SUREOHP KHUH 7KH ODVW LWHP WR EH RIÁRDGHG ZDV RQH RI YLWDO LPSRUWDQFH WR RXU WHDP ,W ZDV D EULJKW UHG GRRU 7R\RWD +LOX[ specially built for Greg and Expeditions 7 by Arctic Trucks. In the distance we could see a row of structures: brightly col ored shipping containers that had been reincarnated as living quar WHUV ZRUNVKRSV D FRPPXQLFDWLRQV RIÀFH DQG DQ XSPDUNHW ´GRX EOH ZLGHµ PHVV KDOO :LWK JHDU SLOHG KLJK ZH PDGH RXU ZD\ WR WKH $UFWLF 7UXFNV VKRS IRU ODVW PLQXWH PRGLÀFDWLRQV IXHO YHULÀFDWLRQ of GPS tracks, and a nap. In a few hours we’d turn the wheels south, a course we would maintain for the next seven days. Overland Journal Spring 2015

Clockwise from left: ;OL -LUYPZ 4V\U[HPUZ ZSPJL [OYV\NO [OL Z\YYV\UKPUN NSHJPHS ÄLSKZ SPRL [OL ZLYYH[LK [HPS VM H WYLOPZ[VYPJ JYVJVKPSL ;OL JVHZ[HS TV\U[HPUZ VM 8\LLU 4H\K 3HUK K^HYMLK V\Y ZTHSS JVU[PUNLU[ HUK PUZ[PSSLK H ZLUZL VM PYYLSL]HUJL +LZJLUKPUN H WHZZ LU YV\[L [V [OL (U[HYJ[PJ 7SH[LH\ Opposite: Expedi[PVUZ [LHT TLTILYZ SLM[ JVS\TU :JV[[ )YHK` HUK *OYPZ *VSSHYK YPNO[ JVS\TU .xZSP 2HYLS ,SxZZVU HUK .YLN 4PSSLY Overland Journal Spring 2015

Post Time: Novolazarevskaya Latitude: S70° Elevation: 538 m Temperature: -10°C

The air was crisp and clean, and the skies cerulean blue when ZH TXLHWO\ UROOHG RXW RI 1RYR 7KHUH ZHUH QR ÀUHZRUNV EDQQHUV ZDYLQJ LQ WKH ZLQG RU FURZGV RI ZHOO ZLVKHUV³PRVW RI 1RYR·V enthusiasm reserves had been expended during the departure of a previous group. The morning we arrived, the team from Walking With The Wounded’s (WWTW) South Pole Allied Challenge had GHSDUWHG 1RYR IRU D ODQGLQJ ]RQH DW 6 WR PHHW WKHLU VXSSRUW vehicles. Our paths would cross more than once in the coming weeks. From an elevation of 538 meters we began our ascent toward WKH FRQWLQHQW·V FHQWHU DQ IRRW LFHFDS NQRZQ DV WKH $QW arctic Plateau. If you view Antarctica from space it resembles a stingray with an embarrassingly crude Friar Tuck haircut. The FHQWHU LV QHDUO\ YRLG RI GHÀQLWLRQ D SROLVKHG ZKLWH GRPH ZLWK VWUDLJKW FXW VFUDJJO\ SUHFLSLFHV GDQJOLQJ DERXW LWV H[WUHPLWLHV 7R the northwest, the Antarctic Peninsula tapers off towards Ush XDLD $UJHQWLQD OLNH D VSLQ\ WDLO DQG WKH EDUEHG %UDQVÀHOG DUFKL pelago protects it from Nord invaders. :H ZHUH FURVVLQJ ÀHOGV RI FREDOW EOXH LFH WKDW KDG EHHQ VZHSW clean of snow. It resembled a river chasing gravity toward the sea, JODFLDO ÁRZV HGG\LQJ DQG ERLOLQJ FRQVWDQWO\ WRUPHQWHG DQG XS WXUQHG E\ IRUFHV WKRXVDQGV RI IHHW EHORZ /RQJ ÀVVXUHV GHYHORS LQ WKH FURVVÀUH DQG DUH VORZO\ FRYHUHG ZLWK GULIW VQRZ IRUPLQJ unstable bridges. They are fairly easy to see on the blue ice, but in many areas they are indistinguishable from the surrounding ter rain. Here, venturing off the thin line of the GPS track is risky business. As a safeguard, everyone donned a climbing harness and length of rope. It was mandatory that we tether ourselves to our vehicle if we exited.

ExPEdITIoNS 7 ANTArCTICA TEAm

We were about to embark on the sixth leg of the Expeditions 7 WUHN DURXQG WKH ZRUOG *UHJ D SDVVLRQDWH /DQG &UXLVHU DÀFLRQDGR ZDV IXOÀOOLQJ KLV GUHDP RI GULYLQJ /DQG &UXLVHUV QRW MXVW DURXQG the world, but also on all seven continents. He and Scott departed the Arctic Ocean in the northern reaches of Alaska two years prior and had already crossed Europe, Asia, Australia, and Africa. If Si beria had been the tip of the proverbial iceberg, Antarctica would be the 90 percent that lay below the waterline. There were many uncertainties, and they had spent months on the logistics. The plan was to head due south for approximately 2,200 kilometers. If our GPS breadcrumbs were accurate, if we maintained an aver age pace of 25 kilometers per hour, were spared mechanical issues, DQG DYRLGHG FORVH HQFRXQWHUV ZLWK FUHYDVVHV WKH $PXQGVHQ 6FRWW South Pole Station would be ours. The next leg, though ambitious, was optional—push north (an odd term at the South Pole where all compass points are, uh, north) towards the Ross Ice Shelf and western edge of the continent. Time would be of the essence, as this would put us nearly 3,000 kilometers from Novo and the sea VRQ·V ODVW ÁLJKW EDFN WR &DSH 7RZQ«DQG LW ZRXOGQ·W ZDLW IRU D wayward clan of Amundsen wannabes.

Scott Brady Expedition leader, Overland Journal publisher Chris Collard Lead paparazzo, Overland Journal HGLWRU LQ FKLHI Gísli Karel Elísson Polar expert, Arctic Trucks’ chief mechanic Greg Miller /HDG DGYHQWXUHU /DQG &UXLVHU DÀFLRQDGR

This was Queen Maud Land, a fascinating example of Antarc tica’s unique geological DNA. Its coast is veiled under a thick sheet of snow and frozen seawater. Sheer spires, sculpted through the PLOOHQQLD E\ ZLQG JODFLDO ÁRZV DQG WHFWRQLF PRYHPHQW SXQFWXDWH the ice cap. We zigged east and zagged west in a southerly direction as the GPS ticked off meter upon meter of elevation gain. Greg, 6FRWW DQG , WKH QHZELHV ZHUH LQ DZH RI WKH PDJQLÀFHQFH RI RXU VXUURXQGLQJV 7KH 6KFKHUEDNRY 5DQJH D OLQH RI FUDJJ\ UHGGLVK brown mountains drifted by to the west; the Conrad, Wohlthat, and Orvin Mountains were beyond. I imagined that from the air these coastal mountains would appear like a supersized stegosau rus submerged in a sea of white silica sand. In a particularly steep section my photographic curiosity got the best of me. I was the cinematographer for the trip and the VHWWLQJ PDQGDWHG D WKLUG SDUW\ YLHZ , VDLG WR *tVOL ´,·P JRLQJ WR walk up the hill. Keep going.” He shrugged and said, “Use care.” I bailed out and began a short trek up the glacier, not knowing what WR H[SHFW ,·G UHDG RI WKH PRYHPHQW RI JODFLHUV RI WKH ÀVVXUHV that are created as they are slowly pulled away from the heavens. In Greenland I had heard their groans and cries of rage as they were torn apart by the forces of nature. But I’d rarely walked on one, let alone driven. As I hiked to an elevated position my mind was awash with an account Gísli had shared. A tourist had wandered RQWR D JODFLHU ZLWKRXW D VDIHW\ OLQH IHOO WKURXJK D VQRZ FRYHUHG FUHYDVVH DQG EHFDPH ÀUPO\ ZHGJHG LQ D IXQQHO RI LFH GHHS EHORZ Atop this living and animated organism, I could hear it breathe. It was a sleeping lion; one that I hoped would remain quiescent. Antarctica is unique unto itself and is the most sparsely popu lated continent. Average numbers range from 1,000 inhabitants Overland Journal Spring 2015

LQ WKH ZLQWHU WR DQ HOERZ WR HOERZ LQ WKH VXPPHU³ZKLFK pegs the population density meter at 0.00035 people per square kilometer (in the high season). It is a land of extremes ruled by no VLQJXODU SROLWLFDO LQÁXHQFH UDWKHU DQ DOOLDQFH RI QDWLRQV LQ DJUHH ment that the continent’s resources and untarnished beauty should be fervently protected and preserved. Most who live in Antarctica DUH LQYROYHG LQ VFLHQWLÀF UHVHDUFK DQG WKH $QWDUFWLF 7UHDW\ GLFWDWHV that no mining or military activities are to take place. Another pro YLVLRQ WKH WUHDW\ PDQGDWHV LV D SDFN LW LQ SDFN LW RXW SROLF\ 7KLV includes empty fuel drums, trash, and human waste. Everything must be hauled out. This leads us to our relationship with WWTW. Companies such as ALCI, which manage logistics to the eastern hemisphere, are responsible for ensuring that abandoned vehicles, downed air craft, and cryogenically preserved corpses are not left scattered around the landscape—a noble policy if one considers the debris littering that lofty peak in the Himalayas. In other words, they can’t have a bunch of yahoo explorers venturing off and dying. Ac cordingly, WWTW and Expeditions 7 were part of each other’s emergency plan. Though we hoped we would meet up with them near the Pole under a celebratory light, if we received “the call” we would respond as needed, regardless of jeopardizing the success of our mission. Likewise, if we had a problem, we would have a platoon of soldiers coming to the rescue. Camp 72: Thor’s Hammer Latitude: S72° Elevation: 2,356 m Temperature: -16°C Time en route: 7 hrs distance: 154 km

It was around 2200 hours when we reached Thor’s Hammer, our intended camp. The term “camp” I use loosely, as camping LQ $QWDUFWLFD LV DQ H[HUFLVH LQ VXUYLYDO 7KLV ZDV RXU ÀUVW OLYH GULOO in setting up the tents, latrine, and mess hall. We were in the land of the midnight sun, which hung at about 30 degrees above the KRUL]RQ 7KH VXE ]HUR WHPSHUDWXUH DQG WKLQ DLU ZHUH LPPHGLDWH reminders of our environment. After fumbling our way through setting up the Arctic Oven mess tent, we pitched our individual DERGHV DQG VHW DERXW FRRNLQJ GLQQHU 7KH ÀUVW RUGHU RI EXVLQHVV ZDV WR SUHSDUH ZDWHU %HLQJ ZDUP EORRGHG FUHDWXUHV IURP ZDUP er climes, the concept of having to melt ice for water was a bit foreign. It would quickly become second nature: erect the tents, set up three MSR stoves, prepare water, mix up a dehydrated meal, eat, and go to bed. After everyone crawled into their sleeping bags I took a little ZDONDERXW WR VHW XS D FDPHUD IRU D WLPH ODSVH VHTXHQFH , JXHVVHG it was around 0100 hours, as the sun was passing nearly due south. Its rays dispensed a harsh and contrasting light as crisp as the snow underfoot. The area around this camp is considered to be, at least by Gísli, a safe zone. I queried whether it was okay to be out on foot without a tether. His response, “I think okay, not so many crevasses here.” As before, I moved slowly and with purpose, us ing a monopod as a probe and placing each step with care as I made my way up to the base of Thor’s Hammer about a thousand meters to the east. Overland Journal Spring 2015

, UHFLWHG *tVOL·V GLVVHUWDWLRQ RQ KRZ WR GHWHFW D FUHYDVVH 0LG span I paused to survey my surroundings. My lifeline to the world, a small gathering of tents and vehicles, was now a series of dis tant yellow, red, and orange specks amongst a sea of white…and dreadfully small. It was at this moment, perched alone atop a thou sand feet of ice that it sank in. I was in Antarctica, near the south ern extremities of the planet, and it was quite possible that my feet rested where no human had trod before. There were mountains in the near distance, but to the south where the sun beckoned lay a vast sea of emptiness, I was in Antarctica, WKH :KLWH 'HVHUW , UHÁHFWHG RQ P\ KRPH near the southern in sunny California and my wife, Suzanne, extremities of the who had assuredly supported my decision planet, and it was to come here, but with trepidation. The quite possible that wind picked up considerably and the tem my feet rested perature was dropping steeply; I had ven where no human tured far enough. had trod before. In the morning, if it could be called so, Greg and Scott checked the vehicles and sorted out our gear, while Gísli and I melted snow for coffee and a breakfast of oatmeal and dried fruit. Like a cool sip of water in the heat of the desert, any thing warm was a treat. This would become a daily ritual over the next two weeks. I reference “daily” in a general way, as our sched ule would be dictated by several factors: the number of hours be fore the last plane left Novo, distance to cover, human require ments for rest and nourishment, and anticipated rate of travel. The plan was to travel for 20 hours and rest for 10. Driving shifts would EH LQ KRXU URWDWLRQV ZLWK RII GXW\ WLPHV WR EH VSHQW PDQDJLQJ music selection, keeping the driver awake, or pulling a jacket over your head in an attempt to sleep. Since camping would be anything EXW URXQGV RI ´.XP ED \DK µ VNHZHU URDVWHG PDUVKPDOORZV DQG sipping coldies, everyone was on board with the 20/10/4 strategy. Midday we crossed the tracks of two French skiers who had their sights set on the Pole. Scanning the horizon we searched for anything that wasn’t white. Though there isn’t exactly a rush hour, there is a rush season. During the next 12 days we’d meet Parker /LDXWDXG D \HDU ROG FOLPDWH FKDQJH FDPSDLJQHU ZKR ZDV DW tempting to set the record for the youngest person to complete DQ XQVXSSRUWHG FRDVW WR SROH VNL WUHN $QG WKHUH ZDV %ULWLVK DG venturer Maria Leijerstam, who would follow the same route up WKH /HYHUHWW *ODFLHU RQ D UHFXPEHQW WKUHH ZKHHOHG F\FOH $GG WKH WWTW crew and a fuel train sliding its way from McMurdo Sta tion to the Pole, and I could see HOV lanes in Antarctica’s fu WXUH³RND\ PD\EH QRW IRU D IHZ PRUH \HDUV 7ZHQW\ IRXU KRXUV later we would hear that the French skiers had abandoned their quest due to weather and called in to Novo to be picked up. Camp 77 Latitude: S77° Elevation: 3,197 m Temperature: -23°C Time en route: 30 hrs distance: 720 km

Damn, it was cold. We were now camped at 3,197 meters and the mercury was continuing to fall. Though I knew better, I tried to light a Jetboil to mitigate the ice buildup on the inside of my tent. It

was simply too cold. The thing froze up and rolled over like a petri ÀHG SHQJXLQ ZKLFK PDGH FUDZOLQJ RXW RI P\ FR]\ & 1HPR sleeping bag that much more enjoyable. I’d brought the stove along because, uh, I’m lazy, and thought it would be nice to warm up my tent and heat a little coffee in the morning. Though the idea of slipping the frozen fuel canister in my sleeping bag did cross my mind (for about a millisecond), I stowed the unit permanently and resolved myself to the mess hall for the morning beverage. :H ZRXOG H[SHULHQFH RXU ÀUVW ZKLWHRXW WKLV GD\ $ERXW KRXUV LQWR RXU KRXU GULYH GHQVH IRJ DQG EORZLQJ VQRZ FORVHG in like a cloak, obscuring the sun and reducing visibility to 20 me ters. The scene was eerie, like a milky cloud of swarming white locusts rolling through an already weird dream. Scott and I saw this as a Canon moment: an opportunity to capture some footage. We released our tethers, climbed out, and watched Greg and Gísli fade into oblivion. I glanced at Scott and knew he was mirroring my thoughts, “If these guys lose the track, we’re screwed.” The radio crackled with Greg’s voice and these sweet words: “We’ve turned around and are heading back on the track, you guys ready?” While we waited I couldn’t help but envision the early explor ers of this place once known as Terra Australis, a southern land mass thought to act as the planet’s counterbalance for Africa, Asia, DQG (XURSH 7KHVH JX\V ZHUH WRXJK 7KH\ GLGQ·W KDYH *RUH 7H[

KLJK WHFK ERRWV RU GRXEOH OD\HU WHQWV 7KH\ DOVR GLGQ·W KDYH IRXU wheel drive vehicles to retreat to when things went sideways. It made me appreciate the intestinal fortitude they possessed…and our Arctic Trucks. Antarctica’s environment is otherworldly. Though South America boasts the Andes, and Asia enjoys the famed Himalayas, Antarctica claims the title for the highest average elevation. It is QRW WKH ODUJHVW FRQWLQHQW³LW RQO\ UDQNV ÀIWK³EXW SHUFHQW LV covered by ice with an average thickness of 3,000 meters. It also claims the lowest recorded naturally occurring temperature on HDUWK & Aware that we were standing on thousands of meters of fallen snow, and considering annual precipitation on the continent’s inte rior is less than 50 millimeters, begged the question: How did it all JHW KHUH" 7KH DQVZHU ZDV VHOI HYLGHQW«LW QHYHU PHOWV 7KH OLPLWHG DPRXQW WKDW GRHV IDOO LV EORZQ DURXQG XQWLO LW ÀQGV D KDSS\ SODFH to rest. Happy is used loosely here as well, as when a snow crystal is Clockwise from top left: :[YPRPUN JHTW ILSV^ ;OVY»Z /HTTLY WYV]PKLK V\Y ÄYZ[ SP]L L_LYJPZL PU ZL[[PUN [OL [LU[Z PU Z\I aLYV [LTWLYH[\YLZ HUK TVKLYH[L ^PUK 2H[HIH[PJ ^PUKZ KYP]L MYLL ZUV^ MYVT NSHJPLY ÄLSKZ leaving what is know as glare ice. The author attempts to free the Arctic Trucks 6x6 from loose, soft snow. Overland Journal Spring 2015

Overland Journal Spring 2015

.xZSP \[PSPaLZ H ]VS[ W\TW [V transfer Jet A-1 from a barrel to the primary fuel tank.

permanently planted it becomes party to the evolutionary process of glacier production. If it lands near the coast it will, over the next million years or so, join a bazillion other crystals in their journey to lower elevations and eventually to the ocean. If it parks itself on the polar plateau it will be pressed toward the center of the earth, con demned to an eternal existence in a sarcophagus of ice. In the mountain regions and fringes of the plateau, katabatic winds wreak havoc on anything in their path. They develop when air at higher elevations is cooled, becomes heavy, and is drawn by gravity to areas of less dense air. In Antarctica, katabatics can reach velocities of nearly 200 mph—enough to upend shipping con tainers and scatter humans like leaves in the path of a landscaper’s blower. Though we would not be blessed with this phenomenon, evidence of their existence was omnipresent. In every direction and as far as the eye could see were sastrugi. When the katabatic winds arrive, predominantly in the fall and winter, they torment the land scape, cutting divots and snow tunnels, and sculpting the ice into sharp and irregular patterns. They can be up to two meters in height and are the nemesis of the polar traveler. Sir Ernest Shackleton and &DSWDLQ 5REHUW )DOFRQ 6FRWW ZURWH RI WKH VDVWUXJL DQG WKH GLIÀFXOW\ they imposed. For us it was a matter of slowing the pace and choos ing a path that was as close as possible to our GPS breadcrumbs. The storm cleared just in time to set up camp. After every one turned in, I again stood alone on the ice with my camera. It was calm and clear, and the sun was to the west, not that it mat tered. It could have been to the south, east, or north, as it barely GHYLDWHG IURP LWV GHJUHH GHFOLQDWLRQ WR WKH KRUL]RQ 7KHUH ZDV something profoundly peaceful about this environment. Beyond the sastrugi in the foreground it was nearly pool table smooth, a PRRQVFDSH VR ÁDW DQG H[SDQVLYH , FRXOG VHH WKH FXUYDWXUH RI WKH earth. I had queried Anna, our German ALCI representative, about maps of the interior. She said, “All you need is a white piece of paper; there is nothing there.” Though the casual observer might describe the plateau as bleak and featureless, I found it to be a fas FLQDWLQJ ZRUOG RI QDWXUDO DUW 0LOOLRQV RI LQWULFDWHO\ ZLQG FDUYHG sastrugi created a carpet of tactile texture. Drift snow, suspend ed just a few inches above the surface, swept by like a genie on a magic carpet, and above, the sun glistened off a crystalline orches tra as it played across the plateau. The scale of this world of end less horizons invoked a sense of irrelevance and an awareness of one’s frailty. Camp 83: Fuel depot and russian Vodka Latitude: S83° Elevation: 2,618 m Temperature: -14°C Time en route: 50 hrs distance: 1,401 km

7KHUH ZHUH IHZ (OHYHQ FRUQHU VWRUHV DORQJ RXU URXWH ,Q IDFW there weren’t any. We’d not seen a Starbucks, McDonald’s, KFC, or 7DFR %HOO³LW ZDV PDJQLÀFHQW )XHO VWRSV KRZHYHU ZHUH UHTXLUHG DW OHDVW RQFH GXULQJ HDFK GULYLQJ VHVVLRQ 7KH ÀUVW ZRXOG EH D UH PRWH IXHO GHSRW DW 6 Arctic Trucks, which is based in Iceland, has spent decades perfecting the art of polar travel. Our two ve KLFOHV DQ $7 DQG $7 [ UDQ RQ -HW $ IXHO ZLWK WZR F\FOH RLO DGGHG IRU OXEULFDWLRQ (DFK ZDV ÀWWHG ZLWK H[WHQGHG UDQJH IXHO

cells (280 liters and 600 liters, respectively), and carried additional OLWHU IXHO GUXPV LQ WKH EHG ZH KDG VL[ WRWDO :LWK D FRPELQHG reserve of 2,080 liters and an average fuel economy of 48 liters per 100 kilometers (about 5.1 mpg) for each vehicle, we had a range of approximately 2,100 kilometers. Regular stops included trans IHUULQJ IXHO IURP WKH GUXPV WR WKH YHKLFOHV YLD D YROW SXPS We would also require two refuels while en route to and from the South Pole. We arrived at Camp 83 to be greeted by Andre, a Russian national and the camp manager. The extent of the facility was a IHZ WHQWV DQ RSHQ DLU ODWULQH GXJ LQWR WKH base of a snow pile…and that was it. In Drift snow, the distance were thin marker posts lined suspended just a up across the ice and another airstrip. If few inches above the you’ve ever wondered why Antarctic travel surface, swept by like is ungodly expensive, it’s because every a genie on a magic WKLQJ KDV WR EH ÁRZQ LQ ,I D SURGXFW LV carpet, and above, QHHGHG LQ WKH LQWHULRU LW PXVW DOVR EH ÁRZQ [OL Z\U NSPZ[LULK Vќ to that location and airdropped. Andre a crystalline orchestra and his team of four would spend three as it played across months in this remote outpost to support the plateau. the season’s few expeditions. The day prior to our arrival, 208 barrels had been pushed out of the tail of the ,O\XVKLQ DQG SDUDFKXWHG WR WKH DLUÀHOG $QGUH·V FUHZ ZDV LQ WKH process of collecting the payload and burying it under a few feet of snow for future retrieval. We stepped into their mess tent; it was warm and smelled of coffee and herbs. Sleeping cots lined the sides, and wooden planks SURYLGHG D VROLG ÁRRU IUHH RI VQRZ DQG LFH 7KH\ VKDUHG KRW ERZOV of solanka, a Russian soup of sausage, potato, and spice, and we sipped coffee and talked about the weather. Chatting about weath er is not simply small talk to pass time, as it is relevant to what work can be done and when. Andre received a report from Novo that conditions looked favorable for our next leg to Camp 89, where we were to rendezvous with the WWTW crew. I pulled out a bottle of Captain Morgan and shared it with our hosts. They produced a small container of Russian vodka, which we politely sampled; all except for Greg, who doesn’t drink and graciously abstained. It was an odd mix for breakfast, or dinner, or whatever mealtime it was, but what the hey. After a nap we made our way out to the fuel depot, dug up a few drums, topped off the tanks, and headed south, of course. The minutes, hours, and days were beginning to meld together LQWR D F\FOLFDO DQG QHYHU HQGLQJ GUHDP RI GULYH UHIXHO HDW VOHHS and drive. When the sun was directly ahead of us it was midnight. When it was at our “six” it was noon. A blurry moment later it was directly ahead again. For those of us who live outside the polar regions and have regular periods of darkness, adjusting to continu ous daylight can wreak havoc both physically and psychologically. This falls into the realm of a circadian rhythm sleep disorder. After 20 or 24 hours of consciousness, though the body becomes ex KDXVWHG WKH PLQG ÀQGV LW GLIÀFXOW WR VKXW WKH V\VWHP GRZQ ,Q D world without night, do you awake at 0500 hours to have an omelet RU D FRFNWDLO" 1RQHWKHOHVV , ZDV EHFRPLQJ VHPL DFFOLPDWHG WR WKH routine, catching some shuteye while bouncing over sastrugi and listening to cyclical rounds of Eric Clapton Unplugged (I think this was Gísli’s only album). Overland Journal Spring 2015

7KH VNLHV ZHUH FOHDU IRU WKH ÀUVW KRXUV DQG ZH ZHUH PDNLQJ good time. The hours were passed discussing our optional leg to WKH 5RVV ,FH 6KHOI DQG DGPLULQJ SULVPDWLF DUUD\V RI OLJKW UHÁHFWLQJ RII GHJUHH snowbows, or rainbows. If we maintained our cur rent pace and didn’t have any delays, not only the Pole, but a full crossing of the continent might be possible. 6QRZ FRQGLWLRQV RQ WKH SODWHDX YDU\ IURP ÀUP WR YHU\ VRIW In some places our boots hardly broke the surface, in others they OHIW D LQFK GHHS LPSUHVVLRQ ,I \RX·YH VSHQW PXFK WLPH GULYLQJ LQ VQRZ \RX NQRZ WKDW VXFFHVV LV DOO DERXW ÁRDWDWLRQ 2XU YHKLFOHV ZHUH ÀWWHG ZLWK PDVVLYH LQFK 'LFN &HSHN )XQ &RXQWU\ WLUHV RQ FXVWRP LQFK ZLGH $UFWLF 7UXFN ZKHHOV 7KLV FRPELQDWLRQ FUHDWHG D EURDG ÁDW IRRWSULQW DQG H[FHOOHQW ÁRDWDWLRQ $LU SUHVVXUH UDQJHG IURP SVL RQ ÀUPHU VQRZ WR DV ORZ DV SVL LQ WKH VRIWHVW conditions or when we got stuck—which did happen occasionally. Camp 89: The Call Latitude: S89° Elevation: 2,691 m Temperature: -23°C Time en route: 76 hrs distance: 2,075 km

Gísli received “the call” on the satphone midday. It was the Walking With the Wounded team. They were hunkered down in D ZKLWHRXW DW 6 RQH RI WKH PHPEHUV KDG IURVWELWH DQG WKH\ needed assistance. We jotted down their coordinates and gave them an ETA of four hours. Their condition was not dire, which was good, but we were excited to meet the crew and be able to pro vide help where we could. WWTW’s charter is to support wounded veterans in gaining skills needed to integrate into the civilian workforce. With the help of a wide cast of volunteers and generous contributors, and no table patrons such as Prince Harry of Wales, they raise funds and develop public awareness, highlighting the fact that the leadership VNLOOV D VROLGHU SRVVHVVHV LQ WKH EDWWOHÀHOG FDQ EH D JUHDW DVVHW LQ WKH business world. The South Pole Challenge Alliance was made up of mentors, guides, and veterans from the U.K., Australia, Canada, DQG WKH 8 6 7KH\ ZHUH D K\VWHULFDOO\ JRRG QDWXUHG ORW :H DUULYHG WR ÀQG WKHP ORDGLQJ VNLV VOHGJHV DQG JHDU RQWR their support vehicles. Our job was to assist in moving their camp DERXW NLORPHWHUV WR 6 , JUDEEHG P\ FDPHUD DQG FUDZOHG LQWR D WHQW ZLWK ,YDQ &DVWUR D 8 6 $UP\ RIÀFHU ZKR ZDV EOLQGHG while serving in Iraq when a mortar hit his platoon. Considering he was completely sightless, Ivan had a very clear vision of the world. He enlightened me on the virtues of women, the Army, governments, and sporting teams. I left Ivan’s tent humbled yet uplifted, and feeling a bit guilty for the trivial things I sometimes whine about. With gear piled high in the bed and hanging off the sides of the roof rack, we resembled a Saturday Night Live spoof of The Beverly Hillbillies LQ $QWDUFWLFD , FOLPEHG LQ WR ÀQG 'XQFDQ 6ODWHU D 6FRW and Englishman Guy Disney in the back seat. Both had lost legs to IEDs and RPGs in Afghanistan, and were more entertaining than a barrel of monkeys. As can be expected with a Scot and Brit aboard, the conversation quickly distilled itself to the attributes of ÀQH ZKLVNH\ DQG RQH RI WKH ::7: VSRQVRUV *OHQÀGGLFK 7KH\ Overland Journal Spring 2015

KDG D \HDU ROG VLQJOH PDOW WKDW *OHQÀGGLFK KDG SUHSDUHG IRU WKHLU team, and I’d brought a bottle of Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highlands Malt, a reproduction of the whiskey found under Ernest Shackle ton’s Antarctic research hut. Duncan was an expert on the subject (as any Scot worth his salt should be), and though we would wait to crack the seals until we reached South Pole proper, we vowed to save each other a few drams. The storm lifted, visibility improved, and ZH PDLQWDLQHG D UHDVRQDEOH SDFH GXULQJ WKH KRXU GULYH WR &DPS 89. It had been nearly 24 hours since our day had begun and we were all ready for the sack. In the morning we extended our appreciation of their service by walking around to each tent with a thermos of hot water. We said RXU JRRGE\HV DQG EHJDQ WKH VKRUW RQH GHJUHH SXVK WR WKH 3ROH Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station Latitude: S90° Elevation: 2,835 m Temperature: -27°C Time en route: 80 hrs distance: 2,204 km

Standing at the geographic bottom of the earth is surreal. As one who feels he’s pretty good at dead reckoning navigation, the Southern Hemisphere has always rendered me a bit off. The sun at any time of the day is analogous to any other time of day. Set me on WKH FRQÁXHQFH RI DOO PHULGLDQV DQG ,·P VHULRXVO\ GLVFRPEREXODWHG Step left and go north. Step right and go north. If all roads lead to Rome, all meridians lead to the very spot we were standing. Pick one, any one, and follow it in a great circle for about 25,000 miles and end up in the exact same spot: ground zero. Greg had pulled in a few favors and secured a personal tour RI WKH $PXQGVHQ 6FRWW 6RXWK 3ROH 6WDWLRQ 7KH IDFLOLW\ ZKLFK LV ÀUPO\ SODQWHG RQ DGMXVWDEOH VWLOWV LQ WKH PLGGOH RI HPSWLQHVV LV ULJKW RXW RI WKH ÀOP 2010: A Space Odyssey. It is a life support sys tem in a place void of life. There are dining halls, recreation rooms, living quarters, and a greenhouse. The environment outside would render an unclothed person a human Popsicle in a matter of min utes. Inside, scientists and maintenance personnel stroll long corri GRUV LQ VKRUWV DQG 7 VKLUWV 7KH 5XVVLDQV DW &DPS VDLG ´6WDWLRQ big, everything America do big.” They weren’t kidding. The current structure, which replaced a variety of renditions since the station’s RSHQLQJ LQ FDQ KRXVH XS WR SHRSOH 7KH LFH DLUÀHOG ZKLFK LV VOLJKWO\ PRUH VWUDLJKW DQG OHYHO WKDQ WKH VDXVDJH VKDSHG RQH ZH ODQGHG RQ KRVWV D GDLO\ & +HUFXOHV ORDG RI WRXULVWV DQG VXS plies from McMurdo Station. Accordingly, there is a small store with sundries and souvenirs. It is also the only terrestrial place on earth where the sun is continuously visible for six months, and like wise out of sight for six months. While all this sounds quite exotic, the station’s primary function LV VFLHQWLÀF UHVHDUFK JHRORJLFDO PHWHRURORJLFDO DVWURQRPLFDO DQG biomedical. The most recent is the IceCube Neutrino Observatory, a square kilometer array of subterranean sensors placed up to 2,450 meters deep in the ice. The project’s goal is to detect extraterrestrial neutrinos buried under millions of years of accumulated ice. Yes… very technical stuff that went over my head like a satellite. Before bidding our adieus, Greg, whose family owns the Utah Jazz basket ball team, presented the facility manager, an ardent sports fan, with

Clockwise from top: Rays from the circling (\Z[YHS Z\U YLÅLJ[ VɈ Z\ZWLUKLK PJL JY`Z[HSZ PU H KLNYLL HYJ PU ^OH[ PZ RUV^U as a snowbow. The author cracks open his WYPaLK IV[[SL VM 4HJRPUSH`»Z 9HYL 6SK /PNOlands Malt, a reproduction of the whiskey MV\UK \UKLY ,YULZ[ :OHJRSL[VU»Z (U[HYJ[PJ YLZLHYJO O\[ :WOLYPJHS YLÅLJ[PVUZ H[ the ceremonial South Pole. A greenhouse within the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station is the only source of fresh food during (U[HYJ[PJH»Z SVUN ^PU[LY TVU[OZ >L TL[ with the Walking With the Wounded soldiers HUK [OLPY Z\WWVY[ [LHT H[ : ;OL <:.: survey marker at the South Pole. Above: .YLN 4PSSLY THYRZ [OL \S[PTH[L JVUÅ\LUJL ^H`WVPU[ : Below: The highly coveted Antarctica passport stamp.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

The Expeditions 7 team works its ^H` KV^U [OL 3L]LYL[[ .SHJPLY [V^HYK [OL 9VZZ 0JL :OLSM

a specially made #1956 Jazz jersey in honor of the station’s found ing. And though we’re not passport stamp geeks, we did take great SOHDVXUH LQ LQNLQJ DQ $PXQGVHQ 6FRWW 6RXWK 3ROH 6WDWLRQ VWDPS DQG giving it a good press on a now highly coveted page. The day was still young, and after popping the cork on the Shack leton’s single malt and indulging in a celebratory nip, we shifted to phase 2. The Ross Ice Shelf and the western edge of the continent lay a mere 600 kilometers away. Considering the distance we’d trav eled thus far, the Ice Shelf was no more than a short jaunt. Though time would be of the essence, the track across the plateau and down the Leverett Glacier was established and well used. Greg, who prides himself in being an endurance driver, took the lead and set a com manding pace. With any luck we could make the Southern Ocean and still have time for the return trip to Novo…barring any issues.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

ross Ice Shelf Latitude: S85° Temperature: -12°C Elevation: 281 m Time en route: 100 hrs distance: 2,784 km

Considering the fact that we were 10,000 miles from home and in a region visited by few, it seemed odd that I would run into someone from near my hometown in California. While descending the Leverett Glacier, a procession of ants, marching black specks on the horizon, came into view. As we grew near, the apparition morphed into a land train of tracked vehicles towing box trailers and sledges. Keith Hall climbed down from his warm cocoon atop a Caterpillar MT865C. He smiled and said, “We don’t get much traf ÀF GRZQ KHUH µ DQG TXHULHG XV DERXW RXU SXUVXLW +LV WHDP ZKLFK

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Arctic Trucks AT44 and AT6x6

࠮ =LOPJSL! ;V`V[H /PS\_ 2<5 ࠮ ,UNPUL! SP[LY KPLZLS [\YIV PU[LYJVVSLY ࠮ 6\[W\[! OW SI M[ [VYX\L ࠮ ,UNPUL WYL OLH[LY! >LIHZ[V ࠮ ;YHUZTPZZPVU! ZWLLK H\[VTH[PJ ࠮ ;YHUZMLY JHZL! 7HY[ [PTL ! SV^ YHUNL ࠮ (_SLZ! PU MYVU[ PU YLHY ࠮ +PɈLYLU[PHSZ! (9) HPY SVJRLY ! NLHYZ ࠮ ;PYLZ ^OLLSZ! +PJR *LWLR Arctic Trucks 15x14 steel ࠮ :\ZWLUZPVU! *\Z[VT (YJ[PJ ;Y\JRZ ࠮ )\TWLYZ! *\Z[VT (YJ[PJ ;Y\JRZ ^P[O crevasse bar ࠮ >PUJO! *VTL<W P VU T\S[P TV\U[ ࠮ 9VVM YHJR! (MYPJHU 6\[IHJR ࠮ (PY JVTWYLZZVYZ! (9) =PHPY ࠮ <[PSP[` ILK! (YJ[PJ ;Y\JRZ ࠮ -\LS JHWHJP[`! (; 3 (; _ 3 ࠮ >H[LY OLH[LY! (YJ[PJ ;Y\JRZ J\Z[VT

began at McMurdo Station, was heading to the South Pole for a VHPL UHJXODU IXHO GURS %HKLQG KLV &DW ZDV D VOHGJH EXUGHQHG ZLWK HLJKW JDOORQ EODGGHUV RI GLHVHO DQG MHW IXHO D WRWDO ZHLJKW of 168,000 pounds. His posse was reminiscent of a steam engine train crossing the Great Plains in the 1860s. There were supply cars, sleeping quarters, and a dining coach. The journey would take 22 days one way, and they would make two such trips during the summer season. 6WDQGLQJ RQ WKH FRQÁXHQFH RI WKH 5RVV 6HD DQG FRQWLQHQWDO $QWDUFWLFD ZH VFDQQHG WKH KRUL]RQ WR WKH QRUWK DQRWKHU LQÀQLWH breadth of white. Though technically at the water’s edge, the VKHOI ·V NP2 expanse eliminated any chance of seeing the RFHDQ , UHÁHFWHG RQ DFFRXQWV ,·G UHDG DERXW WKH $PXQGVHQ DQG Scott expeditions and how they used the Ross Ice Shelf as a stag ing point for their pursuit of the South Pole. On December 14, $PXQGVHQ DQG KLV WHDP EHFDPH WKH ÀUVW KXPDQV WR UHDFK the geographic bottom of the earth. Scott’s arrival a month later was bittersweet. Though they had successfully reached the Pole, they were in dreadful shape and grievously disheartened by the SUHVHQFH RI D 1RUZHJLDQ ÁDJ ,Q ODWH 0DUFK RI WKDW \HDU VRPH where in the distance, Scott and his companions breathed their last breath. We savored the sweet taste of victory, the sense of accom plishment, elation, and exhaustion. As we recorded our location and autographed the signpost marking the union of land and sea, *tVOL LQIRUPHG XV WKDW KH EHOLHYHG ZH ZHUH WKH ÀUVW $PHULFDQV to cross Antarctica from coast to coast by vehicle. While this was sinking in, I remembered a famous quote by mountaineer Ed Vies turs: “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” We turned away and headed inland, south, to set up camp in the lee of the Transantarctic Mountains.

Clockwise from left: Fuel destined for the interior of the Antarctic Plateau is air dropped to remote locations and buried under the ice. A GPS waypoint is recorded to identify its position, as any surface marker would be swept away by the katabatic winds of winter. A “fuel train” from McMurdo Station ascends [OL 3L]LYL[[ .SHJPLY LU YV\[L [V [OL (T\UKZLU :JV[[ :V\[O 7VSL :[H[PVU .YLN :JV[[ HUK .xZSP ZOHYL OV[ JVJVH HUK JVɈLL ^P[O [OL 9\ZZPHU Z\WWVY[ [LHT MVY Walking With the Wounded. Overland Journal Spring 2015

Camp 85: The Last Flight to Cape Town

Seventy kilometers from the signpost, Gísli got a funny look on his face and said, “Something is wrong, we need to stop.” To this point the only mechanical issue we’d experienced was the water VHSDUDWRU RQ *UHJ·V +LOX[ IUHH]LQJ XS ZKLFK ZDV D TXLFN À[ &UDZO ing under the 6x6 revealed something none of us wanted to see: a broken coil spring. A sheered axle or scattered differential would have been much worse, but this was still a major issue. We went about removing the spring, setting up a mobile shop, and repairing it as best we could. Though Gísli is an accomplished welder, coil springs are formed with spring steel, and spring steel does not take kindly to being welded. Gisli and I reassembled the vehicle while Greg and Scott set camp and prepared another scrumptious feast RI GHK\GUDWHG EDFNSDFNHU PHDOV IUHH]H GULHG PHDW DQG YHJHWDEOHV :H·G EHHQ VHPL DZDNH IRU SOXV KRXUV DQG LW ZDV WLPH WR FUDVK :LWK WKH [ EDFN WRJHWKHU ZH NHSW RXU FROOHFWLYH ÀQJHUV crossed in hopes that if we drove with care, Gísli’s repair would hold. We passed the fuel train: all was good. Then skier Parker Li autaud and his crew: still good. It was at the top of the Leverett that the weld gave way with a nearly inaudible ping. A call to Arctic Trucks CEO, Emil Grímsson, who was part of the WWTW sup port team, revealed that they too had broken a coil spring (appar ently caused by the extreme cold and type of metal used on a new

6UL VM (YJ[PJ ;Y\JRZ» TLJOHUPJZ THRLZ H ZLJVUK H[[LTW[ H[ ^LSKPUN V\Y broken coil spring. Extremely soft conditions required lowering air pressure MYVT WZP KV^U [V WZP

Overland Journal Spring 2015

suspension design). Good fortune was with us this day. There were WZR VSDUHV DW 1RYR DQG D UHJXODUO\ VFKHGXOHG ÁLJKW ZRXOG GHSDUW IRU WKH $PXQGVHQ 6FRWW 6WDWLRQ WKH IROORZLQJ PRUQLQJ We had achieved the Pole and Ross Ice Shelf and set forth new goals. Greg’s son Oakley and the Expeditions 7 Land Cruiser had arrived in Novo. Given our current pace, and if we could expedite the spring swap, we might reach Novo with enough time for a few days of local exploration on the eastern coastline. We were now, as Greg put it, “in rally mode.” The South Pole, which had been such a monumental accomplishment just a few days prior, passed with barely a nod. WWTW was still making their way to the Pole, ZKHUH WKH VROGLHUV ZRXOG Á\ EDFN WR 1RYR :H PHW WKHP HQ URXWH swapped in one of their good springs, which they would replace ZKHQ WKH ÁLJKW DUULYHG IURP 1RYR DQG UHVXPHG RXU GL]]\LQJ URX tine: drive, refuel, eat, sleep, and drive. Retracing our tracks to the fuel depot at Camp 83, we loaded up Andre and his crew with candy bars, cookies, and food we would not need. We then pushed hard to Camp 77, slept, and moved on towards Camp 72 and Thor’s Hammer. Just shy of Thor’s is when the hammer dropped. The sky closed in and visibility was reduced to a few meters. I was soon hanging out the window in a futile at WHPSW WR ÀQG WUDFHV RI RXU SUHYLRXV WLUH WUDFNV 3LORWLQJ WKH OHDG YH KLFOH ZLWK KD]\ H\HV JOXHG WR D LQFK *36 VFUHHQ ZDV WD[LQJ *tVOL DQG , OHG XQWLO ZH ZHUH VHPL GHOLULRXV WUDGHG SRLQW GXWLHV ZLWK *UHJ and Scott until they were nearly comatose, and then assumed the lead again. Several hours passed before the veil slowly lifted to re veal the monolith we’d camped below 10 days earlier. We’d made it. Within 24 hours we would be reveling in the palatial accom modations of the Oasis, a Russian guesthouse near Novo. Oakley and the Land Cruiser had arrived safely, and we spent the next two days soaking in a Russian banya IHDVWLQJ RQ KRPH FRRNHG PHDOV and exploring the local area. Overland Journal Spring 2015

One might ask why three crazy Americans and an Icelander would risk all to drive to the South Pole, or still yet, drive across Antarctica. It is really a pointless endeavor, one to which I cannot provide a logical reason. The Pole, whether north or south, is no PRUH WKDQ WKH FRQÁXHQFH RI WDQJHQWV ZKHUH HDFK LV UHQGHUHG WR their lowest common denominator. Col ...standing at the lectively, all 360 of them equal zero. Maybe bottom of the world, Antarctica’s draw is a bucket list thing; was about the Machu Picchu…check, Great Pyramids… sensation of being check, South Pole…check. To me it was thoroughly alive... more than the pursuit of bragging rights and passport stamps. Pitching my tent on the Antarctic Plateau, walking where no human had trod before, and standing at the bottom of the world, at ground zero, was about the sensation of being thoroughly alive, while in the same moment JUDVSLQJ P\ ODFN RI VLJQLÀFDQFH RQ WKLV EOXH SODQHW ZH FDOO KRPH The Ilyushin landed in a blizzard, a near whiteout…again. We piled our gear on a sledge and were ferried behind a snowmobile through dense fog and blowing snow toward the gray silhouette of an airplane. Climbing up the ladder I looked back at this land of extremes, the White Desert, resting place of many less fortu nate adventurers. Visibility was about 100 meters when the pilots climbed in and closed the door. I pulled my lap belt tight as we taxied into the fray and said to myself, “Don’t worry, they do this all the time.”

Clockwise from top left: By the time the team returned to Novo, coastal temperatures had warmed, allowing for small patches of standing water. Returning to Novo a few days before schedule allowed for local L_WSVYH[PVU PU [OL ,_WLKP[PVUZ :LYPLZ 3HUK *Y\PZLY HUK (YJ[PJ ;Y\JR /PS\_ <[PSPaPUN 4(?;9(? [V L_[YPJH[L [OL 3HUK *Y\PZLY MYVT KLLW ^L[ ZUV^ ULHY [OL 8\LLU 4H\K 3HUK JVHZ[SPUL

Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

ROUTE Antarctica

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Photo by Sinuhe Xavier

Suited for Adventure To determine which adventure-touring suit reigns Z\WYLTL ^L [LZ[ Ä]L SLHKPUN VќLYPUNZ PU MV\Y countries and on two continents. By Christophe Noel Photography by Scott Brady and Christophe Noel

Overland Journal Spring 2015

We pushed all suits to their limits, often on the teetering edge of our own breaking point.

Clockwise from left: 3P]PUN PU [OL /LSK Z\P[ K\Ying a weeklong tour of the Ecuadorean Andes was telling. By the end of the tour it was well broken-in, more comfortable than expected, and KLJPKLKS` KPY[PLY [OHU ^OLU [OL QV\YUL` ILNHU Rainstorms are not the only way to test the waterproofness of a moto suit. When midday temWLYH[\YLZ PU )HQH JSPTI PU[V [OL [YPWSL KPNP[ YHUNL ]LU[PSH[PVU PZ UV[ Q\Z[ HIV\[ JVTMVY[ I\[ Z\Y]P]HS

Overland Journal Spring 2015

dventure riders, myself in cluded, love to extoll the YLUWXHV RI WZR ZKHHOHG travel and romanticize the allure of being one with the elements. It all sounds great until the heavens unleash a cruel downpour, or the ride is made more H[FLWLQJ ZLWK DQ XQH[SHFWHG JHW RII 6HUY ing to defend against the threat of weath er and injury is little more than luck and the few thin layers of a good motorcycle suit. Knowing that all suits are not created equal, we set out to test a handful of cur rent offerings to see which features mat WHU ZKDW LQÁXHQFHV FRPIRUW WKH PRVW and how a rider should go about selecting the suit ideally matched to their individual

needs. What started out as a simple project evolved into a yearlong evaluation span ning tens of thousands of miles, ranging from the deserts of Baja to the cloud for ests of the Andes. We endured punishing heat and buckets of rain, and along the way stuffed our pockets with little scraps of paper scribbled with annotations of our perceived pros and cons. As arduous as our testing was, long before it began ZH IDFHG RXU PRVW GLIÀFXOW DVVHVVPHQW²² which suits to include. During our initial discussions we quick ly discerned that suit choice is highly sub MHFWLYH DQG LQÁXHQFHG E\ SHUVRQDO ZDQWV QHHGV DQG XOWLPDWHO\ ÀW $V , FRPSLOHG D cursory list of potential suits to evaluate,

Buying a Motorcycle Suit? A few things to

Consider

Protection

Fit

;OL WYV[LJ[P]L MLH[\YLZ VM TV[VYJ`JSL QHJRL[Z and pants—perhaps the most important eleTLU[ VM HU` Z\P[·TVYL [OHU Q\Z[PÄLZ [OL V\[SH` of cash and are reason enough to make the W\YJOHZL 0[ PZ HSZV PTWVY[HU[ [V UV[L [OH[ UV[ HSS Z\P[Z VɈLY [OL ZHTL SL]LS VM KLMLUZL ( NVVK suit has an outer shell made of abrasion-resis[HU[ TH[LYPHSZ HUK JLY[PÄLK HYTVY H[ [OL IHJR shoulders, elbows, and knees; ideally on the hips and chest as well. Few suits are delivered with the optimal level of back protection, but will invariably accommodate the back protector of your choosing.

,]LU [OL ILZ[ Z\P[ PZ ^VY[OSLZZ PM P[ KVLZU»[ Ä[ WYVWLYS` 0U V\Y JVSSHIVYH[PVUZ P[ ILJHTL PTTLKPH[LS` HWWHYLU[ [OH[ IV[O :PU\OL HUK 0 SLHULK [V^HYKZ JLY[HPU Z\P[Z Z[YPJ[S` K\L [V Ä[ ( WVVYS` Ä[[LK Z\P[ PZ UV[ VUS` WYVUL [V I\ɈLting at speed, it can also chafe and compromiZL [OL LɈLJ[P]LULZZ VM [OL ]LU[PSH[PVU MLH[\YLZ (U L]LU NYLH[LY PZZ\L PZ [OH[ H WVVYS` Ä[[LK Z\P[ can cause the protective elements to shift out VM WVZP[PVU K\YPUN H NL[ VɈ ;OL IL[[LY Z\P[Z PUJS\KL H T\S[P[\KL VM HKQ\Z[TLU[ MLH[\YLZ [V optimize the rider and suit interface. We also found a tendency for many of the European IYHUKZ [V WYV]PKL H TVYL ZSLUKLY HUK SLHU Ä[" this is something to consider when making a ÄUHS W\YJOHZL :VTL Z\P[Z JVTL PU H T\S[P[\KL of sizes, and selecting the one that matches your physique is key.

Ventilation 0M `V\»]L L]LY YPKKLU PU [OL OLH[ VM H Z\U ZJVYched desert, you know well the importance of NVVK ]LU[PSH[PVU /LH[ Z[YVRL PZ Q\Z[ HZ KLHKS` as hypothermia, and being able to remain cool is of paramount importance. Proper ventilating features deliver cooling air to all parts of the body, even at lower speeds or a full stop. Good vents must be easy to operate and not compromise the weatherproofness of the outer layer.

>LH[OLYWYVVÄUN Ride for any duration and bad weather will eventually intersect with your course. The ability to quickly and easily adapt to changing conditions is important for safety and comfort. Although an increasing number of suits employ ^H[LYWYVVM V\[LY ZOLSSZ [OL THQVYP[` YLS` VU waterproof inner liners. Some liners can be worn over the outer layers if preferred, and while this does make for a more complicated system, the use of liners often means the outer layer can be better ventilated. Weather can bring with it cold temperatures, and insulated PUULY QHJRL[Z HUK WHU[ SPULYZ HYL JVTTVUS` added to extend seasonality.

Storage -VY [OL YPKLY WYVUL [V SP]L VɈ OPZ OLY TV[VYJ`JSL for weeks or months on end, the ability to stoYL RL` WVZZLZZPVUZ JSVZL H[ OHUK PZ UV[ Q\Z[ H matter of convenience, but often safety as well. 4HU` QHJRL[Z VɈLY ^H[LYWYVVM L_[LYUHS WVJRL[Z as well as discrete inner security pockets for travel documents, maps, extra cash, cameras, hydration reservoirs, and electronics. A good adventure-touring suit is tantamount to an extra piece of luggage and vital storage solution.

Photo by Sinuhe Xavier

the number quickly ballooned to nearly two dozen quality options; some were old stalwarts, others newcomers to an already FURZGHG ÀHOG :LWK HQWU\ OHYHO SURGXFWV available for as little as $500, and exotics SXVKLQJ ZHOO EH\RQG D NQHH ZHDNHQLQJ $2,000, even the pricing range proved con founding. Without dedicating an entire is sue to motorcycle suits, we quickly realized we had to cull the herd. In the end we narrowed the selection one by one, making the pained decision to omit some genuine classics like the Aeros tich Darien and the venerated BMW Ral lye 3, both popular choices that have cir cled the globe many times over. As good as those suits are, we were eager to get a FORVHU ORRN DW VRPH RI WKH OHVVHU NQRZQ suits on the market like the Spidi Ergo 365 Pro Expedition and the Held Carese II, the latter just recently made available to the American market. We believe each of the ÀYH VXLWV VHOHFWHG RIIHU XQLTXH DWWULEXWHV while representing a broad range of fea WXUHV ÀW DQG DIIRUGDELOLW\ To add as much impartiality as we could, we enlisted the help of Sinuhe Xavi er, our esteemed creative director, to gain his expert opinion and insight. We spent a minimum of two weeks in each suit, and in a few cases, riding several thousand miles in some of the most remote and rugged environments in the world. Sinuhe’s test ing grounds were contrasted between the Mojave Desert and the jungles of Colom bia. I ventured from the desert heat of Baja, Mexico, to the high passes of the Ec uadorean Andes. In the case of the KLIM Badlands Pro, neither Sinuhe nor myself FRXOG ÀQG DQ RSWLPDO ÀW VR ZH UHFUXLWHG the talents of our publisher, Scott Brady, and our director of business development, Brian McVickers. They tested the Badlands in the rains of Alaska and the arid deserts of Death Valley. We pushed all suits to their limits, often on the teetering edge of our own breaking point. In the process we became increasingly in tune with what makes a given suit good, or exceptional.

Comfort *VTMVY[ H JSVZL KLYP]H[P]L VM Ä[ PZ HSZV PUÅ\LUced by materials, features, and general shaWL 0 YLJLU[S` WHY[LK ^P[O H Z\P[ 0 ^V\SK OH]L otherwise loved had the collar not chewed at my neck like a vampire with scratchy nylon teeth. The more accomplished designers craft [OLPY QHJRL[Z HUK WHU[Z ^P[O ZVM[ [V\JO MHIYPJZ at the neck, waist, and wrists. The choice of materials also plays heavily into weight and MYLLKVT VM TV]LTLU[ (S[OV\NO OPNOS` Z\IQLJtive, some suits were clearly more comfortable than others.

Visibility The most dangerous threat to the adventure rider is, without question, other motorists and the risk of not being seen. There is even H [LYT MVY [OLZL [YHɉJ OHaHYKZ JHSSLK [OL :40+:@ ZOVY[ MVY ¸:VYY` TH[L 0 KPKU»[ ZLL `V\ ¹ The takeaway here is to be seen. Johnny Cash SVVRLK NYLH[ PU HSS ISHJR I\[ KVU»[ MLHY ^OP[L VY high-visibility colors. Most of the suits in this review are available in light colors and include YLÅLJ[P]L HJJLU[Z MVY UPNO[[PTL YPKPUN

Versatility ;OL SVUNLY [OL QV\YUL` [OL TVYL PTWVY[HU[ ]LYsatility is to a proper riding suit. The ability to add insulation, cooling vests, hydration reservoirs, high-visibility accessories, neck braces, and other elements is worthy of consideration.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Held Carese II Jacket, Torno II Pant

EDITOR’S CHOICE CHRISTOPHE NOEL

ike many adventure touring systems, Held’s jacket and pant combination derives its weath HUSURRÀQJ IURP D WKUHH OD\HU LQQHU *RUH 7H[ OLQHU DQG D VHSDUDWH LQVXODWHG jacket. Unlike most layered systems, the up per and lower liners are designed to be worn either over or under its outer layer. This en hances ease of use and will protect the suit from dirt or saturation by heavy rain. The RXWHU OD\HUV DUH FRQVWUXFWHG RI GHQLHU Cordura for maximum durability and protec tion, and include stretch panels at key joints for unrestricted articulation. One of this combination’s most notice able attributes is the abundance of zippered vents, a total of 22, which provide for im SUHVVLYH DLU SDVV WKURXJK 7KH IXOO OHQJWK IURQW YHQW EHQHDWK WKH VWRUP ÁDS SDLUHG WR the sleeve vents, creates a rush of air that is easily managed even while riding. A series of PDJQHWV SODFHG WKURXJKRXW NHHS YHQW ÁDSV in the open position. Inside is a COOLMAX mesh liner and a collection of zippered inner pockets. There is a padded accessory pocket for electronics, and discrete security pockets are handy for stashing travel documents or extra cash. The three external pockets are fully waterproof and easily accessed. 6DIHW\ IHDWXUHV LQFOXGH &( DSSURYHG 6$6 7(& SURWHFWRUV LQ WKH HOERZV VKRXO ders, and knees, as well as temper foam back DQG KLS SDGV 5HÁHFWLYH DFFHQWV DUH SODFHG DW YDULRXV SRLQWV WR SURYLGH GHJUHH YLV LELOLW\ DQG ÀW LV RSWLPL]HG E\ DGMXVWDEOH WDEV along the arms, above the waistline, and at the boot cuff. heldusa.com, 949-215-0893

Sinuhe’s take: This suit hits a high level of functionality through the clever use of technology. Due to its Bavarian origins, it has a slightly roomier cut than other European suits, partiJ\SHYS` [OVZL MYVT 0[HS` ;OL YLHSS` PTWYLZZP]L [HRL H^H` MVY TL ^HZ [OL ]LU[Z PU [OL QHJRL[ alone, which made it feel like the AC was on, even when riding in the desert. The removable Gore-Tex liner kept me dry when everything else was wet. The magnets did attract a bit of dirt, making them stand out, particularly on the white Cordura. Christophe’s take: During a recent trip to

the Andes of Ecuador, where temperature Z^PUNZ YHUNLK MYVT H IVUL JOPSSPUN ¢- [V H Z^LS[LYPUN ¢- VM[LU PU [OL ZWHU VM H ZPUNSL KH` [OPZ Z\P[ WYV]LK [V IL [OL WLYMLJ[ JOVPJL ;OL T\S[P[\KL VM WVJRL[Z ZH[PZÄLK T` ULLKZ HZ a chronic organizer; it was almost like wearing an additional piece of luggage. The quality of construction and materials is impeccable, and [OL Ä[ HUK MLH[\YLZ ZLHSLK [OL KLHS THRPUN [OPZ T` MH]VYP[L VM [OL Ä]L Z\P[Z (Z H [HSS HUK SLHU YPKLY 0 ÄUK [OL Ä[ PZ ZWV[ VU HUK Z\WYLTLS` comfortable. The Gore-Tex liner even made for H UPJL QHJRL[ [V ^LHY ^OLU OP[[PUN SVJHS LH[LYPLZ

Clockwise from top: ;OL /LSK Z\P[ PZ MLZ[VVULK ^P[O WVJRL[Z HUK aPWWLYLK ]LU[Z MVY TH_PT\T HPYÅV^ ;OL KPYLJ[ ]LU[PUN Z`Z[LT VU [OL JOLZ[ HSSV^Z MVY THZZP]L HTV\U[Z VM HPY [V JPYJ\SH[L [OYV\NO [OL QHJRL[ 6UJL VWLULK [OL Z[VYT ÅHW PZ OLSK IHJR ^P[O THNUL[Z L_WVZPUN H SHYNL WHULS VM TLZO HYV\UK [OL THPU zipper. An easily accessed security pocket keeps essentials in reach. Overland Journal Spring 2015

'DLQHVH 7HUHQ ' 'U\ -DFNHW DQG 3DQW $600 / $400

f there is one driving force be KLQG WKLV ,WDOLDQ GHVLJQHG 7HUHQ ' 'U\ MDFNHW DQG SDQW FRPELQD tion, it would be rider comfort. The Cordura Comfort outer shell material is designed to offer just the right amount of stretch for maximum mobility without com promising safety. The Velcro waist tabs are paired to unique drawstring adjustments at WKH VOHHYHV D IHDWXUH 'DLQHVH FDOOV WKHLU DQWL ÁRDWLQJ VOHHYH V\VWHP 6RIW WRXFK IDEULFV DW the neck, waistband, and sleeve cuffs defend DJDLQVW WKH FKDÀQJ VR FRPPRQ WR RWKHU VXLWV Stretch panels above the knees and behind the elbows further add to the suit’s uncom promised mobility, and ventilation is achieved by way of two large chest vents and an over sized mesh panel on the back. Similar panels on each thigh offer cooling to the lower body. The pants also include suspenders to further UHÀQH WKH ÀW $ ' 'U\ PHPEUDQH LQQHU MDFNHW SUR vides waterproof protection and is so nicely designed it can be worn on its own when off the bike; its additional insulation layers offer warmth in near freezing temperatures. The pants include the same waterproof and in sulation layers. The jacket’s storage features include two large front pockets, two small chest pockets, a rear cargo pocket, and mesh pockets on the hips. 7KHUPR IRUPHG VKRXOGHU SURWHFWRUV DUH matched to composite armor elements in the NQHHV DQG HOERZV ERWK RI ZKLFK DUH FHUWLÀHG to the EN 1621.1/97 standard. Though our MDFNHW ZDV ÀWWHG ZLWK WKH RSWLRQDO 'DLQHVH Wave G back protector, the large pocket in side the liner accepts a wide range of avail DEOH RSWLRQV 5HÁHFWLYH DFFHQWV UXQ WKH OHQJWK of the sleeves, along the back, and on the lower legs for maximum visibility. dainese.com, 949-645-9500

Sinuhe’s take: Dainese products are known

MVY H ZSPT 0[HSPHU J\[ HUK [OPZ Z\P[ PZ UV KPɈLYLU[ 0 ^PSS ZH` [OL` YLHSS` ^LU[ MVY P[ ^P[O YLNHYK to functionality; venting on the chest, legs, and back are very well thought out. The pants feature removable suspenders, which serve to keep them high and in place, and a connec[VY aPWWLY VU [OL QHJRL[ TH[LZ [V [OL WHU[Z [V keep water from sneaking in. Mobility in this suit was completely unrestricted, which was surprising giving its slender cut.

Christophe’s take: 0M [OL :WPKP Z\P[ PZ PT-

pressive in its complexity, the Teren is appealing due to its elegant simplicity. The oversized back vent and dual chest vents import air bet[LY [OHU 0 L_WLJ[LK HS[OV\NO 0 KV ^PZO [OLYL ^LYL ]LU[Z VU [OL ZSLL]LZ ;OL Ä[ PZ \UKLUPHIS` [YPT HUK JHU IL ÄUL [\ULK ^P[O JSL]LY HYT HKQ\Z[TLU[Z HUK =LSJYV [HIZ H[ [OL ^HPZ[SPUL Perhaps not the ideal suit for the hottest of [LTWLYH[\YLZ P[ PZ H ÄUL Z\P[ HSS [OL ZHTL HUK would look superb atop a Moto Guzzi.

Clockwise from top: ;OL 0[HSPHU KLZPNULK ;LYLU OHZ H [YPT ZOHWL ^P[O JSLHU HLZ[OL[PJ KLZPNU J\LZ Direct vent panels on both thighs keep air pass-through to a maximum without too much added complication to the suit. With one of the largest direct vent back panels of any suit tested, the Teren expels warm air better than most.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Spidi Ergo 365 Pro Expedition H2OUT Jacket and Pant

$1,400 / $700

EDITOR’S CHOICE :05</, ?(=0,9

f there is a word which best de scribes this suit it would be versatil LW\ 7KLV WKUHH OD\HU V\VWHP LQFOXGHV a waterproof inner liner and insu lating jacket, as well as complementing liners IRU WKH SDQWV 7KH 7HÁRQ FRDWHG SRO\DPLGH outer shell has a tight weave for maximum weather resistance and durability, yet is supple enough to not inhibit mobility. An extensive list of features includes re movable cargo pockets in the front lower portion of the jacket, and a removable rear hydration pocket complete with an included CamelBak HydroBak reservoir. The pocket doubles as a map case and, believe it or not, even a tank bag. The suit comes with a small shoulder bag for storing various liners and pockets when not in use, which can be locked to the motorcycle. Ventilation is provided via mesh panels at the chest, zippered vents under each arm, and two additional vertical exhaust vents at the lumbar. Fit is optimized with adjustment straps at the waist, neck, bi ceps, and forearms. This suit is full of extras, OLNH D EXLOW LQ EDODFODYD WKDW LV VWRUHG LQ LWV RZQ internal pocket. )LWWHG ZLWK D &( DSSURYHG /HYHO EDFN SURWHFWRU LW DOVR FDUULHV /HYHO FHUWLÀFDWLRQ against tearing, cutting, and for seam dura bility. Biomechanic protectors at the elbows, VKRXOGHUV DQG FKHVW DUH ÁH[LEOH DQG GR QRW impede movement. There is an abundance RI UHÁHFWLYH HOHPHQWV DQG WKLV LV WKH RQO\ VXLW LQ (XURSH WR KROG 0·V FRYHWHG GHJUHH YLVLELOLW\ FHUWLÀFDWLRQ $ EXLOW LQ JDLWHU DW WKH lower leg seals out the elements and accom modates a wide range of boots. In general, it is a masterpiece of design and construction. spidi.com

Sinuhe’s take: 0 KVU»[ [OPUR 0»]L L]LY ^VYU H

NHYTLU[ ZV ^LSS [OV\NO[ V\[ 0U TVU[OZ VM ^LHYPUN [OPZ Z\P[ 0 UL]LY OHK [V \ZL [OL PUZ\SH[PUN SPULY ÔPJO PZ YH[LK KVÛ [V - 0[Z ]LYZH[PSPty became evident during a ride from sea level [V V]LY MLL[ LSL]H[PVU PU [OL :HU .HIYPLS 4V\U[HPUZ HUK [OLU KVÛ [V [OL 4VQH]L +LZLY[ 0 ÄUK [OL ]LU[PUN HUK SH`LYZ HYL X\PJR HUK LHZ` [V \ZL HUK ]LY` LɈLJ[P]L ;OPZ PZ KLÄUP[LS` [OL Z\P[ 0 ^V\SK JOVVZL PM 0 ^LYL NVPUN [V YPKL HYV\UK [OL ^VYSK ;OL VUS` ULNH[P]L! ^P[O L]LY` layer and pocket in place, the suit weighs close to 10 pounds.

Christophe’s take: ;OL ,YNV 7YV PZ VU

HU LU[PYLS` KPɈLYLU[ Z[YH[\T VM KLZPNU HUK L_Lcution. For any rider living on the road, it has all the necessary features you would ever need, HUK ZVTL 0 KPKU»[ RUV^ L_PZ[LK ;OL ]LYZH[PSP[` PZ unrivaled and the level of protection it provides is commendable. On the road, this suit is extremely comfortable, provides excellent mobility, HUK [OL Ä[ HJJVTTVKH[LK T` SLHU I\PSK ^P[OV\[ MLLSPUN V]LYS` MVYT Ä[[PUN ;OL [PNO[ ^LH]L VM [OL outer material not only adds to its weather resistance but is also easy to clean. My only caveat might be the weight of the entire system, but that is getting downright nitpicky.

Clockwise from top: Built for the demands of expedition-level travel, the Spidi is complex yet comfortHISL 0[ OHZ TVYL MLH[\YLZ [OHU HU` Z\P[ ^L OH]L [LZ[LK +PYLJ[ ]LU[ WHULSZ PU [OL JOLZ[ WYV]PKLK IL[[LY than expected cooling. The detachable back pocket serves as a hydration pack and can even be attached to the tank as a compact storage bag. Overland Journal Spring 2015

REV’IT! Sand 2 Jacket and Pant

he recently updated Sand 2 is purposefully designed to meet the needs of the most demanding adventure rider, EXW ZLWKRXW D VL]DEOH RXWOD\ RI FDVK $ WKUHH layer system, the combination comes with a Hydratex waterproof and breathable liner as well as an additional insulation layer. In warm HU FOLPDWHV WKH MDFNHW FDQ EH ÀWWHG ZLWK WKH REV’IT! Challenger Cooling Vest to create a WUXH IRXU VHDVRQ ULGLQJ V\VWHP The outer layers of both are constructed RI KLJK GHQVLW\ GHQLHU SRO\HVWHU ZLWK additional protective accents made of Lorica and Sure Grip synthetic texturized leather. Heavy gauge YKK zippers at the sleeves, chest, back, and thighs open large vents for maximum cooling. Two small snaps adjacent to the chest vents can be utilized to hold the chest vents open, a simple solution that great ly aids cooling performance. The back panel includes a large pocket, positioned between two vertical exhaust vents, that is suitable for a hydration reservoir. To optimize comfort, the collar and waistband are lined with soft mi FURÁHHFH DQG IRXU 9HOFUR WDEV DORQJ WKH WRUVR DQG VOHHYHV FDQ EH XVHG WR ÀQH WXQH ÀW :LWK large waterproof pockets located on the front and back of the jacket as well as on each thigh, storage features abound. 3URWHFWLRQ LV SURYLGHG E\ &( DSSURYHG ProLife armor in the shoulders, elbows, and knees. For this test we upgraded the back ar mor with the company’s optional Seesoft pro WHFWRU ZKLFK FDUULHV D &( DSSURYHG OHYHO rating. The Sand 2 is the only suit in this test WR FRPH VWDQGDUG ZLWK EXLOW LQ DWWDFKPHQW points to accept Leatt and Moveo neck brac HV 5HÁHFWLYH DFFHQWV RQ WKH FKHVW VOHHYHV and back offer excellent nighttime visibility. revitusa.com, 888-681-0180

Sinuhe’s take: Wearing the Sand 2 is like OH]PUN H ZLJVUK ZRPU¶¶[OPZ Z\P[ Q\Z[ ^VYRZ High- quality features such as spring-loaded brass snaps give it a very nice feel. The vents are in the right places and easy to access, and pockets are roomy enough for carrying the usual ephemera that collects on extended trips. *,HWWYV]LK 7YV3PML HYTVY PZ ^LSS WVZP[PVULK PU the shoulders and elbows, and the Seesoft back WYV[LJ[VY PZ SPNO[ HUK JVTMVY[HISL 0M HU`[OPUN [OL Ä[ [OYV\NO [OL SLNZ ^HZ H SP[[SL ZSPT I\[ 0 KV have the thighs of an ex-ski racer.

Christophe’s take: 9PKPUN PU[V )HQH»Z Z\Ubaked deserts with the mercury pushing past ¢- 0 ^HZ WSLHZHU[S` Z\YWYPZLK [V ÄUK [OL Sand 2 was up to the task of keeping me cool. The large vents on the chest, arms, and back swallow massive amounts of fresh air and were easily managed while riding. The cavernous pockets, including the hydration compartment, HYL LHZPS` HJJLZZLK HUK [OL OPNOS` HKQ\Z[HISL [VYZV HUK ZSLL]LZ ÄUL [\ULK [OL Ä[ /H]PUN ZWLU[ ULHYS` TPSLZ PU [OPZ Z\P[ PUJS\KPUN T` VUS` TPUVY NL[ VɈ PU [^V KLJHKLZ P[ OHZ been a standout performer.

Clockwise from top: With two large direct vents on the chest, full-length zippers along the sleeves, HUK [^V NLULYV\Z JHYNV WVJRL[Z [OL :HUK PZ MLH[\YL YPJO 3HYNL YLÅLJ[P]L LSLTLU[Z THRL [OL YPKLY OPNOS` ]PZPISL H[ UPNO[ HUK [OL Z\P[»Z NLULYV\Z J\[ WYV]PKLZ L_JLSSLU[ TVIPSP[` HUK Ä[ ]HYPHIPSP[` 0[ OHZ [^V JOLZ[ ]LU[Z MVY L_JLSSLU[ HPYÅV^ HUK [OL MYVU[ VM [OL QHJRL[ MLH[\YLZ JVUULJ[VY WVPU[Z MVY 3LH[[ VY 4V]LV neck braces. Overland Journal Spring 2015

KLIM Badlands Pro Jacket and Pant

$700 / $500

EDITOR’S CHOICE :*6;; )9(+@ (5+ )90(5 4*=0*2,9:

he Badlands Pro is the only entrant in this review to em ploy a waterproof and breath able outer shell. The jacket’s LQGXVWU\ OHDGLQJ *RUH 7H[ 3UR OD\HU IDE ric not only repels weather’s worst, it also offers a high level of abrasion resistance. The key to this system’s versatility lies in the use of urethane coated YKK zippers, which allow the user to simply open various vents for cooling, or close them to seal out the elements; thus there is no need for an inner waterproof liner. Because waterproof laminate fabrics DUH RIWHQ OHVV EUHDWKDEOH WKDQ WKHLU QRQ laminate alternatives, KLIM incorporated ODUJHU WKDQ XVXDO YHQWLQJ VROXWLRQV 7ZR IXOO OHQJWK YHQWV XQGHU HDFK DUP DUH SDLUHG to massive exhaust ports on the back panel. Four additional vents on the sleeves import air directly to the arms, providing enough cooling for use in even the warmest tem peratures. Fit adjustments are accomplished with Velcro tabs at the sleeves, shoulders, wrists, waist, and lower legs, and storage solutions include a large rear pocket, two cargo pockets on each thigh, and four bel lowed pockets on the front. One of the more protective combina tions in this review, the jacket includes a &( DSSURYHG /HYHO EDFN SURWHFWRU DV ZHOO DV &( DSSURYHG SDGV LQ WKH VKRXOGHUV elbows, and knees. Siliconized armor shields WKH LQMXU\ SURQH FKHVW DUHD DQG DEUDVLRQ resistant Armacor panels protect high im SDFW ]RQHV 2YHUVL]HG 0 UHÁHFWLYH SDQHOV RIIHU GHJUHH YLVLELOLW\ +LJKO\ UHJDUGHG for its durability, the Badlands Pro is a suit designed for the most challenging rides. klim.com, 208-552-7433

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Brian’s take: 0 KVU»[ [OPUR P[ PZ WVZZPISL MVY HU`

suit to be touted as perfect, but the Badlands Pro comes remarkably close. My suit has protected and comforted me through a wide range of JVUKP[PVUZ MYVT [OL OLH[ VM (YPaVUH HUK )HQH [V MYLLaPUN YHPU PU (SHZRH 0»]L ^VYU P[ [OYV\NO ;:( JOLJRWVPU[Z VU ]HYPV\Z Å` HUK YPKL [YPWZ HUK it has never failed to impress. There are plenty of pockets, including an enormous one on the back panel and an internal sleeve dedicated for H O`KYH[PVU YLZLY]VPY 0»]L HSZV MV\UK P[ WYV]PKLZ NYLH[LY WYV[LJ[PVU [OHU TVZ[ Z\P[Z 0[ PZ HU HSS around great suit and is my regular go-to.

Scott’s take: The Badlands is performanceVYPLU[LK HUK KLZPNULK ZWLJPÄJHSS` MVY VW[PTHS JYHZO WYV[LJ[PVU 0 OH]L \ZLK 2304 MVY percent of my long-distance travels, including in the tropical heat and rain of Colombia and in the spring snow of the high-elevation American West. While ventilation is generous, the suit is still TVZ[ HWWYVWYPH[L MVY [LTWLYH[\YLZ \UKLY - 0M 0 ^LYL [V SLH]L [VTVYYV^ VU HU HYV\UK [OL ^VYSK adventure, the Badlands would be my suit of choice because of the Gore-Tex materials wea[OLYWYVVÄUN HUK SHJR VM H SPULY YLX\PYLTLU[ HUK NLULYV\Z *, YH[LK + 6 WYV[LJ[PVU PU [OL LSIV^Z shoulders, chest, and back.

Clockwise from top: 2304»Z )HKSHUKZ 7YV Z\P[ PZ THKL MVY [OL ^VYZ[ ^LH[OLY PTHNPUHISL ;OL V\[LY Gore-Tex shell defends against rain, yet the large vents permit warm weather riding. Although small, the ^LSS WSHJLK HYT ]LU[Z HKK [V [OL Z\P[»Z L_JLSSLU[ ]LU[PSH[PVU Z`Z[LT >PKL [OPNO ]LU[Z Z^HSSV^ O\NL ]VS\TLZ VM HPY HUK HYL IHJRLK ^P[O WYVWLYS` WSHJLK WHKZ ZV HZ [V UV[ KLNYHKL [OL Z\P[»Z WYV[LJ[P]L X\HSP[PLZ

Conclusions

here is no denying that adventure motorcyclists are afforded a plethora of choices when it comes to riding suits. All of the combinations in this review performed admirably and ZRXOG PDNH D ÀQH PDWFK IRU HYHQ WKH most ambitious rider. While features DQG ÀW SURYHG YDULDEOH HDFK VXLW GHPRQ strated good comfort, weatherproofness, and protection. Picking the Value Award winner was straightforward, as the Sand 2 suit bested the other four by several hun dred dollars without skimping on quality or performance. While the Spidi earned Sinuhe’s pick for Editor’s Choice, Scott and Brian chose the KLIM and I select HG WKH +HOG 7KLV IXUWKHU VROLGLÀHV ÀW DV a primary consideration when selecting D ULGLQJ VXLW 2QH ÀQDO FRPPRQDOLW\ ZH IRXQG LQ DOO ÀYH VXLWV²²WKH\ DOO LQVSLUHG XV to ride, and what more could we ask of a jacket and pair of pants?

The desert can be a hostile place when temperatures are at their highest. Choosing the proper suit can be a make-or-break decision.

Final Impressions Sinuhe: /V^ KV `V\ WPJR H TV[VYJ`JSL Z\P[& ;OPZ PZ H [YPJR` X\LZ[PVU HUK 0 [OPUR P[ JVTLZ KVÛ [V OV^ `V\ HYL NVPUN [V \ZL P[ 0 OH]L HS^H`Z SP]LK I` [OL I\` VUJL JY` VUJL WOPSVZVWO` HUK [OL UV[ [OH[ 0 ^V\SK I\[ 0 JV\SK L[OVZ VM I\`PUN [OPUNZ (SS VM [OLZL Z\P[Z are high quality, and based on that alone, they pass the test as an around-the-world piece of kit. For me it comes down to functionality, comfort, and ease of use. Having said [OPZ [OL :WPKP ,YNV 7YV ,_WLKP[PVU PZ T` MH]VYP[L" 0 KHYL ZH` UV V[OLY VɈLYPUN L]LU came close. The abundance of storage options, versatility, quality, technology, freedom VM TV]LTLU[ HUK V]LYHSS JVTMVY[ THKL [OL :WPKP T` WPJR MVY ,KP[VY»Z *OVPJL·PM TVUL` ^LYL UV VIQLJ[ /V^L]LY TVUL` PZ HU VIQLJ[ HUK ZVTL[PTLZ [OLYL HYL IL[[LY WSHJLZ [V ZWLUK P[·SPRL VU WSHUL [PJRL[Z [V :V\[O (TLYPJH >P[O [OH[ PU TPUK 0 ^V\SK I\` [OL 9,=»0; :HUK ;OL VUS` HYLH ÔLYL P[ JVTLZ \W ZOVY[ PZ ^P[O YLNHYK [V H ML^ MLH[\YLZ 0U [LYTZ VM Ä[ HUK M\UJ[PVUHSP[` 0 ^V\SK ^LHY [OL :HUK HU`ÔLYL ÔPJO PZ JVTTLUKHISL NP]LU P[ PZ [OL least expensive suit in the mix.

Christophe: (M[LY H `LHY VM [LZ[PUN 0 ^HSRLK H^H` MYVT [OPZ WYVQLJ[ OH]PUN SLHYULK [OH[ UV Z\P[ PZ WLYMLJ[ UVY PZ [OLYL H KLÄUP[P]L best. We relied on impressions from Scott Brady HUK )YPHU 4J=PJRLYZ MVY [OL )HKSHUKZ 7YV! ;OL` HYL IV[O X\PJR [V SH\K [OL )HKSHUKZ HZ their WYLMLYYLK Z\P[ 0»]L ZWLU[ [OL TVZ[ [PTL PU [OL 9,=»0; :HUK HUK OH]L MV\UK ML^ MH\S[Z ZH]L MVY P[Z ZSPNO[S` NLULYV\Z Ä[ ;OV\NO H SP[[SL IPN VU TL WLYZVUHSS` P[ PZ H NYLH[ suit, a top performer, and we all agreed that it is deserving of the Value Award. ;OV\NO :WPKP ,YNV 7YV ,_WLKP[PVU / 6<; ^HZ UV[ H WLYMLJ[ Ä[ MVY TL P[ ^HZ I` MHY [OL TVZ[ PTWYLZZP]L Z\P[ 0[ TPNO[ IL H IP[ [VV JVTWSL_ MVY KH` [V KH` YPKPUN I\[ MVY HU`VUL SP]PUN VU H IPRL MVY ^LLRZ VU LUK P[ ^V\SK IL OHYK [V ÄUK H IL[[LY HS[LYUH[P]L 0 ZPTWS` SV]L [OH[ Z\P[ -VY T` WO`ZPX\L [OL /LSK HUK +HPULZL Z\P[Z ^LYL [OL TVZ[ JVTMVY[HISL >OPSL [OL +HPULZL ;LYLU»Z JSLHU HLZ[OL[PJZ HUK YLÄULK Ä[ THKL me want to like it above all, limited ventilation in the sleeves had me lean towards [OL /LSK ;OL X\HSP[` HUK KL[HPSLK ^VYRTHUZOPW VM [OL /LSK *HYLZL 00 HUK ;VYUV 00 HYL outstanding, only rivaled by its comfort and comprehensive features. This is my preferYLK Z\P[ HUK [OL VUL [OH[ 0»SS ^LHY VU M\[\YL HK]LU[\YLZ

Overland Journal Spring 2015

$GYHQWXUH WRXULQJ 6XLW &RPSDULVRQ Manufacturer

Held

Dainese

Spidi

REV’IT!

KLIM

Model

*HYLZL 00 ;VYUV 00

Teren D-Dry

,YNV 7YV Expedition H2OUT

Sand 2

Badlands Pro

7YPJL 4:97 <:+

$600, $400

$1,400, $700

$700, $500

Shell material

500D Cordura

500D Cordura Comfort

SH`LY WVS`HTPKL

600D polyester

SH`LY .VYL ;L_ 7YV

>H[LYWYVVÄUN

Gore-Tex liner

D-Dry liner

H2OUT liner

Hydratex liner

Gore-Tex outer shell

0UZ\SH[PVU

Not included

Removable liner

Not included

>H[LYWYVVÄUN membrane

Gore-Tex

None

Gore-Tex

Back protection

Optional

*, HWWYV]LK 3L]LS

Optional

*, HWWYV]LK 3L]LS

Armor points

Shoulders, elbows, knees, hips

Shoulders, elbows, knees

Shoulders, elbows, knees, chest

Shoulders, elbows, knees

Shoulders, elbows, knees, hips, chest

Origin

Vietnam

Armenia

Vietnam

China

Vietnam

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Lati tude Portfolio by David duChemin

Dempster

64-68° N

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Whistles in the Canyon Modern explorers chase the ghosts of legendary river runners on the mighty Colorado.

By Greg Hatten Photography by Greg Hatten and Dave Mortenson

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Overland Journal Spring 2015

KH HDU VSOLWWLQJ VRXQG RI P\ oar cracking in two was still ringing in my ears as I sat huddled on the rocky shore. Though I had two towels and a blanket wrapped around me, I was shivering and my teeth were chattering. Maybe it was the cold, or maybe it was adrenaline pumping through my body, the effect of what had happened less than a mile upriver. I pulled the blanket WLJKWHU %RDW ÁLSV RQ WKLV SRZHUIXO ULYHU DUH violent and life threatening—an explosion of ZDWHU IROORZHG E\ D WDQJOHG PHVV RI XSVLGH down sky and water, splintered wood, twisted metal, scattered gear, and passengers gasp LQJ IRU DLU LQ D OLIH DQG GHDWK VWUXJJOH 7KLV ZRXOG QRW EH P\ ODVW DQG WKH VWXUG\ IRRW Sawyer oar would not be the only thing bro ken. This was the mighty Colorado.

)HKNLY [OL ÄYZ[ IPN YHWPK SH` H[ YP]LY TPSL LPNO[ Opening page: 4` VSK ;V`V[H -1 3HUK *Y\PZLY pulls the Portola across the high desert of Oregon en route to the Grand Canyon. Overland Journal Spring 2015

Overland Journal Spring 2015

, ZDV SDUW RI D PHPEHU WHDP WKDW planned to run 280 miles of the Colorado Riv er through the Grand Canyon in three replica wood boats. We were there to celebrate and pay tribute to a small group of river runners who ventured into these waters in 1964. At the time, construction had begun on two proposed GDPV 7KH\ ZHUH SDUW RI WKH 3DFLÀF 6RXWKZHVW Water Plan, and if completed would put much of the Grand Canyon, including the celebrated Lava Falls Rapid, underwater—just as the Glen Canyon Dam had done to much of the river the year before. Exploratory tunnels had been drilled into the walls at the Marble Canyon Dam site, and the only thing standing in the ZD\ RI IXOO VFDOH FRQVWUXFWLRQ ZDV D rubber stamp on an appropriations bill in Congress…and the vote was imminent. ,Q D ODVW GLWFK HIIRUW WR VWRS FRQ struction, Martin Litton, an environ mentalist, writer, and avid river run ner, took it upon himself to change the course of history. He knew suc cess would require public support, and joined with fellow river runner Pat Reilly, a Lockheed tooling man ager, and David Brower of the Sierra Club, to organize an expedition to SKRWRJUDSK ÀOP DQG ZULWH DERXW the river. They needed to share their experience in a way that would bring the reader along with them as they explored the immensity of Redwall Cavern, mar veled at the beauty of the Vermilion Cliffs, and held on tight for thrilling rides through frothing rapids in wooden do ries. The elegant prose was of course tinged with lament that after the dams were built, the Colorado would be lost for eternity.

4HY[PU 3P[[VU HUK OPZ ZVU +VUHSK ÄUPZOPUN \W [OL OH[JOLZ VM [OL VYPNPUHS 7VY[VSH PU ;OL [LHT JYVZZLZ [OL 7HYPH 9P]LY ULHY [OL 3LLZ -LYY` SH\UJO 4HY[PU 3P[[VU YV^Z [OL VYPNPUHS 7VY[VSH VU [OL HX\H JVSVYLK ^H[LY VM [OL 3P[[SL *VSVYHKV HU HYLH JVTTVUS` YLMLYYLK [V HZ ;OL *VUÅ\LUJL Overland Journal Spring 2015

“There was a sadness mixed in with my feelings. How many Americans would have the chance that we had? How many would know the peace of drifting along with the river, the only sounds being the creaking of an oarlock, the slurping of the water against the oarblades, or perhaps the song of a wren seeming to tumble down the canyon walls? How many would know the quickening of the spirit that comes when the boat glides down the tongue of a rapid, and dances exuberantly among the leaping waves? Or the joys of an evening FDPSÀUH ZKHQ WKH ERG\ LV DJUHHDEO\ WLUHG DQG WKH VSLULW relaxed, the breeze spreads the scent of the burning GULIWZRRG DQG WKH ÀUH·V JORZ ÁLFNHUV DJDLQVW WKH &DQ\RQ wall?” )UDQFRLV /H\GHW H[SHGLWLRQ PHP ber and author of Time and the River Flowing.

Beginning in 1902, the Bureau of Land Reclamation had successfully built 340 dams in 17 states in the Western United States. Only a couple of notable dam projects had been defeated in that time, and congressional ap proval on the current dams was considered a PHUH IRUPDOLW\ 3ULRU WR WKH ÀQDO YRWH WKH 6L erra Club delivered a copy of Leydet’s book to every member of Congress. Brower and Lit ton led a spirited publicity campaign that in FOXGHG D IXOO SDJH DG LQ WKH 1HZ <RUN 7LPHV that screamed the headline, “Should we also ÁRRG WKH 6LVWLQH &KDSHO VR WRXULVWV FDQ JHW nearer the ceiling?” In a stunning reversal of momentum, Congress backed away from the project, funding was not approved, and the dams were not built. The boats that carried Litton and his crew would forever be referred to as “the boats that saved the Grand Canyon.” They were Oregon boats, a slight variation from the do ries known as McKenzie Drift Boats that nav igated the technical rivers of the Northwest. They were commissioned by Martin in 1962 and built by Keith Steele, one of the era’s pre mier boat builders, in his shop on the banks of the McKenzie River. Martin picked them up and trailered them to their date with des tiny on the Colorado. With the expedition’s 50th anniversary IDVW DSSURDFKLQJ 6HDWWOH EDVHG 'DYH 0RUWHQ son had a vision to replicate that trip, and the boats, in honor of the accomplishments of WKRVH HDUO\ ULYHU UXQQHUV 'DYH·V ÀUVW WLPH RQ the Colorado was at the age of 14 as a passen ger on his father’s boat. The year was 1962, and both Martin Litton and Pat Reilly were present. In 2011 Dave attended the Drift Boat Festival in Oregon. His mission was to learn PRUH DERXW WKH 0F.HQ]LH VW\OH ERDWV DQG PRUH LPSRUWDQWO\ ÀQG VRPHRQH WKDW FRXOG build replicas of the 1964 boats. 'DYH ZDV RQH RI WKH ÀUVW SHRSOH , WDON ed with that day, a rainy Saturday in April. My boat was one of 50 parked on the soggy green lawn, and I had the feeling he would go ERDW WR ERDW XQWLO KH IRXQG WKH DQVZHU KH ZDV looking for. His breath hung in the chilly air as he talked about riverboat history, the Colo rado, and the role Oregon boats played in the drama. I said, “Yes,” even before he asked. The boats would be named after the origi nal dories: the Portola, Susie Too, and Lucky Pierre. I would row the Portola, a replica of Martin Litton’s boat, provided I could man age the build. It would take eight months and require a lot of help from friends in the wood

helpless we can become in the grandness of the Canyon. For some, it can be life chang ing. Excerpts from the original crew’s journals H[HPSOLÀHG WKLV “We were fast bearing down on that rock…too late. Over the rock we swept, plunging EURDGVLGH LQWR WKH KROH EHORZ , KDG D ÁDVK LPSUHVVLRQ of water pouring over the gunwale, of Bill Jones toppling over the side of the boat turning like a turkey on a spit, then all went cold and dark…The Colorado had taught us a lesson.” There is no shortage of social media vid HRV RI ERDWV ÁLSSLQJ LQ UDSLGV ZLWK QDPHV OLNH Upset, Lava, and Killer Fang Falls. I’d seen big rafts and stable catarafts get overturned, their sturdy metal frames dismantled and contorted into pretzels. I wondered how my wood boat, ZLWK LWV WKLQ LQFK SO\ZRRG VLGH SDQHOV would hold up to that kind of punishment. My FJ40 is slow, the radio is vintage (poor reception), and I would have plenty of time to ponder this question during the long haul from Oregon to Lees Ferry. I eased the Cruiser out of the garage and hooked up the boat trailer. It was early March, and satellite forecasts indicated snowstorms were hitting the mountain passes of the Cascades. With a SRXQG ERDW LQ WRZ JHWWLQJ RXW RI 2U

boat community, particularly Randy Dersham and his son Sanderson. The Portola would be resurrected in the quiet of my small shop alongside my FJ40 Land Cruiser. When I ran into problems, I wondered if the same issues were encountered 50 years ago and how they VROYHG WKHP , KDG TXHVWLRQV DERXW GLIÀFXO ties we might encounter on the wildest river in North America. From reading their journals I NQHZ WKH\ ZHUH DV FRQFHUQHG DERXW ÁLSSLQJ a boat as I was. To minimize the risk, they chose to “line” their dories and gear around several of the worst rapids (lowering the craft through a rapid with a long rope). We, on the other hand, would attempt to run the 280 miles in their entirety. If you can see beyond the terror, there is raw beauty in a natural force strong enough WR XSHQG D SRXQG ERDW OLNH D WR\ LQ WKH bathtub. It is a reminder of how small and

egon could be the most treacherous part of the journey. I was anxious. Our group assembled at the boat launch, a huge parking lot of sand and river rocks on the banks of the Colorado. This is where the important work of logistics took place. In DGGLWLRQ WR WKH WKUHH GRULHV ZH KDG ÀYH VXS port rafts. The team scurried around making notes and sorting out which boat should carry which items. We would be on the river for 24 days, and it was imperative that we knew ex actly where to look for meals, water, and mis cellaneous gear. It was late morning when we pushed off, RQH E\ RQH WR IROORZ WKH \HDU ROG ULYHU OLQH RI RXU SUHGHFHVVRUV 7KH ÀUVW VHYHUDO PLOHV were gentle, the scenery spectacular, and there was just enough white water to ease us into the “other world” of the Grand Can yon. After a handful of miles we pulled out, made camp, and rested easy on a sandy beach amidst tamarisk and lizards. As we approached river mile 39 and Mar ble Canyon, we found an exploratory tunnel 100 feet above the water line on river left. It had been drilled to evaluate the suitability of this site for a dam. We pulled the boats to

If you can see beyond the terror, there is raw beauty in a natural force strong enough to upend a 2,000-pound boat like a toy in the bathtub. 85

Replicating the Portola was performed in my garage in 2012. The oars and boat were painted to match the original colors. Right: After 1,000 miles of bad winter driving from Oregon, the FJ40 slowly backed the Portola into the water. They ^V\SK TLL[ HNHPU YP]LY TPSLZ KV^U YP]LY H[ the other end of the canyon. Overland Journal Spring 2015

Photo by Nate Pickens

Overland Journal Spring 2015

shore, and a couple of us scrambled up tailings of broken rock and limestone that had been blasted out of the cliffside. From the mouth of the tunnel we looked down at the river below, and I imagined what the canyon would look like if the dam had been built. It was a chilling image. Turning from the river, we climbed over railroad ties and boul ders that guarded the entrance. As we crawled through a portal into the heart of the mountain, we were immediately covered in darkness. It was a heavy darkness, eerie and black. We turned on headlamps, splashed our way through puddles on D KDUG SDFNHG GLUW ÁRRU DQG WULSSHG RYHU ORRVH rocks that had fallen into the narrow passageway. Stopping to examine the tunnel’s jagged walls, which were scarred from the work of violent in VWUXPHQWV ZH UHDOL]HG WKDW IRU WKH ÀUVW WLPH LQ VHY eral days we could no longer hear the river. It was an ominous silence. The 1964 team spent a restless night camped on the beach where our rafts were moored. One of the team members wrote, “I imagined the weight of three hundred feet of water above my head…which would ÀOO WKLV JRUJH LI WKH GDP ZHUH EXLOW , VDZ 5HGZDOO &DYHUQ submerged, Vasey’s Paradise lost, the candy-striped walls obliterated, the graceful beaches buried, the native plants and animals evicted or drowned, the living river, with its varied moods of fury and tranquility, replaced by the monotony of a lake.” We shimmied back out the open ing and slid down to our boats. Left: ;OL ÄYL»Z NSV^ PSS\TPUH[LZ [OL YLK YVJR ^HSSZ VM North Canyon as team members discussed the next KH`»Z WSHU Top: 0M [OL 4HYISL *HU`VU KHT OHK ILLU I\PS[ PU [OL Z [OPZ WYPZ[PUL ILHJO ^V\SK UV^ IL under hundreds of feet of water. Overland Journal Spring 2015

7OV[V I` 0aa` *VSSL[[ 7OV[V I` 0aa` *VSSL[[

Clockwise from top: 6\Y ]PL^ VM [OL ]LY[PJHS SPTLZ[VUL JSPɈZ MYVT PUZPKL 9LK^HSS *H]LYU ^HZ WYVIHIS` ]LY` ZPTPSHY [V ^OH[ 1VOU >LZSL` 7V^LSS ^P[ULZZLK during his expedition nearly 150 years ago. Deep in the heart of the canyon, every bend of the river revealed stunning views and spectacular geology. After nearly a week on the river, repairs to the oars of the Portola were made on a layover day. Overland Journal Spring 2015

Photo by Robb Grubb

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Clockwise from top left: >YHWWPUN H ZWHYL VHY HM[LY ZUHWWPUN VUL VM V\Y WYPTHY` \UP[Z PU .YHWL]PUL 9HWPK ([ ;LX\PSH )LHJO ILSV^ [OL *SHZZ 3H]H -HSSZ 9HWPK ^L JVSSLJ[LK V\Y [OV\NO[Z HUK ZPNULK [OL YP]LY SVNIVVR ;OL 7VY[VSH UH]PNH[LZ HYV\UK H THZZP]L OVSL VU [OL *SHZZ .YHUP[L 9HWPK

Overland Journal Spring 2015

The river owned us now, HUK V\Y ÄNO[ TV]LK [V P[Z home turf of watery graves at the murky bottom.

The Portola navigates its way through the middle section of Upset Rapid. Upset Rapid lived up to P[Z UHTL ÅPWWPUN [OL 7VY[VSH PU H SLKNL OVSL H[ [OL bottom and dumping its passengers. The boat spun around and was rolled several times before ILPUN YLSLHZLK MYVT [OL YP]LY»Z NYPW ;OL WHZZLUgers, who were sucked to the bottom and cartwheeled several hundred feet downstream before popping to the surface, were not so fortunate.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

7KH ÀUVW PLOHV RI WKH ULYHU FRXOG EH FRQ sidered an orientation period. At river mile 70, WKDW ZDV RYHU %HIRUH XV OD\ D VHULHV RI GLIÀFXOW rapids: Unkar, Nevills, Hance, and Sockdo lager, some of which the crew of 1964 had lined their boats around. We would run them all. Lower than normal water levels made the ULYHU GLIÀFXOW DQG WHFKQLFDO 0RUH URFNV ZHUH exposed, the holes were deeper, and the rap ids sharper, all of which left the oarsmen edgy. At river mile 81 is a rapid called Grapevine, ZKLFK KDV D VWHHS IRRW YHUWLFDO GURS RYHU D TXDUWHU PLOH VSDQ 7KRXJK LW KDV D UDWLQJ RI RQ D VFDOH RI WR ZH FODVVLÀHG LW LQ RXU morning meeting as a read and run. This meant we would not pull over to scout it—just take a look at the top and let ’er rip. 7KH ÀUVW WKUHH UDIWV WRRN D OHIW OLQH , watched them drop over the top and head into the most turbulent section of the rapid. As each disappeared from sight it seemed to hit a rock or high wave. Their bows shot out of the water and pitched wildly to the right. I sensed trouble for a wood boat and took the right line instead. Dave, my passenger, was in the front seat. After successfully negotiating the rocks of the turbulent middle, I looked back upriver to see what had given the rafts such trouble. When I turned downriver again, a gaping hole had opened up right in front of us and the point of our bow was dipping over the edge. There was a sudden thud of a boulder hitting the boat directly under my feet—it killed our momentum. Instead of aggressively plowing into the hole and busting out the other side, we were free falling like a plane in a stall. The nose of the Portola dove deep into the bot tom and forward progress was immediately stopped. The bow was pushed straight up by the power of the opposing wave and for a split second we saw nothing but blue sky. I thought WKH ERDW ZRXOG ÁLS VWUDLJKW EDFN DQG ZH·G EH crushed. It paused and listed to one side, like a breaching whale that breaks the surface and topples over in a twisting turn. We were now sideways in the bottom of the hole, and the blade of the left oar was wedged between deep rocks. The bottom of the boat, which was serving as a sort of shield, was getting pounded. While our left oar prevented the boat from rolling over to one side, the crash ing current from above didn’t have enough force to push us through the other. We were stuck in the middle and taking a beating.

From our team’s perspective, we had sim ply vanished. Those below saw us drop in, SDVV WKURXJK WKH ERXOGHU VWXGGHG PLGGOH DQG disappear. From above, we were looking good and then “poof,” we were gone. Everyone sensed something was seriously wrong and the whistles started to blow. Somehow, Dave managed to stay in the boat by standing on the inside left gunwale while holding onto the right. Several times he lost his grip, scrambled back up the passenger bench and grabbed the gunwale again. I yelled, “High side Dave… high side,” the only encouraging words I could think of. I was sure that if he slipped again he would disappear into the hole and perish. I held onto the right oar with both hands and pulled hard against the river. The river pulled back, tightening its grip with one hand while pummeling us with the other. The Colorado is not a warm river. The Glen Canyon Dam, 98 miles upriver, releases water from the bottom of Lake Powell, and it is icy cold. Even in the heat of summer, tem SHUDWXUHV RQO\ ZDUP WR DURXQG )³FROG enough to pose a serious risk of hypothermia. At this point we were tired, cold, and numb, and clinging to the boat was our best chance for survival. A loud “pop,” like the sound of a gun go ing off, rang from beneath. The left oar had ÀQDOO\ JLYHQ RXW DQG VQDSSHG 7KH 3RUWROD ÁLSSHG RYHU RQ WRS RI XV WKH ULJKW VLGH RI P\ body taking the full brunt of 2,000 pounds. It jammed us into the depths of the hell we’d been dancing over for what seemed like an eternity. In some ways it was a relief, as we could not have held the boat in place much ORQJHU 7KH ULYHU RZQHG XV QRZ DQG RXU ÀJKW moved to its home turf of watery graves at the murky bottom. It was a confusing and dimly lit world of a billion bubbles, frigid water, and strong crosscurrents that pulled and pushed me in a series of underwater cartwheels. My instincts told me to swim, so I did. Though I was outmatched by its power and didn’t know up from down, I kicked my legs and pulled the strongest strokes of my life. Just when I thought my lungs would explode, my head popped above the surface and I took in a huge gulp of air. I took in another as a wave covered P\ KHDG :DWHU ÀOOHG P\ PRXWK DQG UDFHG WR my lungs. I was choking, gasping, and calling for Dave. I saw his bright yellow life jacket. +H ZDV ÁRDWLQJ SHUIHFWO\ VWLOO RQ KLV EDFN +H didn’t answer and I feared he was dead.

Everyone was now in full rescue mode, and whistles screamed from every point on the river. Though most of my strength was gone I could still kick my legs enough to suck air—when I could get my head above the waves. The Susie Too got to Dave quickly and pulled him onto the deck. He was dead weight, hypothermic, but alive. My ride, however, wasn’t over yet. Our safety raft was eddied out on river right and positioned as the last lifeline. Nate Pickens tossed the most beautiful orange throw rope bag. As if in slow motion, it cut across the bright blue sky and landed on the other side of my head. It was a perfect throw and literally touched my ear, but I didn’t have the strength or presence of mind to grab it. I was helpless in the cold grip of the current as it swept me away. Nate got on the oars and chased me to the next eddy, where I was pulled down by an undertow. From the depths I watched the raft getting smaller as I surrendered to the river in peace. I felt a hand grab the back of my life jacket and I was yanked out of the water, coughing and spitting up water. They stripped my clothes, wrapped me in towels, and tried to stop my body from shaking. Dave was drying off in the Susie Too, and despite a nasty black eye, it appeared he was okay. When I queried about the Portola, heads shook in a slow sorrowful way, as if she had died. They pointed upriver, to the hell we had just survived, where she was being churned VLGH RYHU VLGH LQ D SHUSHWXDO EDUUHO UROO :H FRXOG RQO\ VHH ÁDVKHV RI KHU RQ HYHU\ WKLUG or fourth revolution. The river was beating it in a relentless display of power. I felt sick and turned away, emotions getting the best of me. After 20 or 30 rotations the Portola shot out like a cork and came limping down the river upside down. We pulled her to shore and carefully WXUQHG KHU RYHU H[SHFWLQJ WR ÀQG EXVWHG boards, sprung hinges, open hatches, and missing gear. Unbelievably, the latches had held, hatch lids were in place, and all gear was accounted for. We pumped out the water, and I slid gingerly into the rower’s seat, inserting the spare oars into the oarlocks. Against the advice of my team I rowed the Portola a mile downriver to our next camp. Wrapped in towels and blankets, I sat alone at the edge of camp and tried to clear my head. We still had nearly 200 miles to cov HU DQG VRPH RI WKH PRVW GLIÀFXOW UDSLGV OD\ Overland Journal Spring 2015

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ahead. My boat had suffered a “push up” in its bottom from running over the rock, a broken oar, and a few stress fractures. My body was busted up; I had a cracked rib, and my entire ULJKW VLGH ZDV DV EUXLVHG DV P\ FRQÀGHQFH It takes a setting as grand as the Grand Canyon to shake us into seeing what is really important in our lives. It strips away pretense, FRPIRUW WHFKQRORJ\ FDOHQGDUV DQG FRQÀ dence. The crew of 1964 experienced this and communicated it with such passion that it helped preserve this treasure for river run ners like me—to learn lessons that can only be fully understood when we are humble and vulnerable. Francois Leydet wrote, “There is no gorge in the world quite like the Grand Canyon. There is no river in the country quite like the virile &RORUDGR 7KH ÁRZLQJ ULYHU LV ERWK WKH KHDUW DQG WKH

It takes a setting as grand as the Grand Canyon to shake us into seeing what is really important in our lives. It strips away pretense, comfort, technology, calendars, and JVUÄKLUJL

Photo by John Schroeder

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main artery of the Canyon. Destroy the living river and the Grand Canyon itself would in a sense die.” When I was ready for a passenger again, 'DYH ZDV WKH ÀUVW WR FOLPE EDFN LQ P\ ERDW black eye and all. It would take us almost an other three weeks to cover the remaining dis tance. I rowed most every rapid in a pleasant pain, a reminder of the unforgiving nature of the Colorado River and lessons learned.

Top to bottom: The crew relaxed on the boats HUK JLSLIYH[LK OHWW` OV\Y HM[LY H KPɉJ\S[ KH` VM rowing and riding the wild water of the Colorado River. Traditional canvas and wool camping gear against an inferno-orange sunrise. The Portola glides through a restful stretch of river between rapids.

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Testing the Ice A moto-adventuring trio faces sub-zero climes, frozen rivers, and Russian truckers in an attempt to reach the Arctic Circle…on a 1993 Ural sidecar. %\ $QWV %ROLQJEURNH .HQW

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here are two basic prerequisites for a motorbike trip: a motorbike and the ability to ride one. We had nei WKHU ,QVWHDG ZH KDG WZHHG D WDS GDQFLQJ FRPHGLDQ and an industrial dose of determination. With little more than this potent cocktail of motorbike unsavvy, the three of us were on a train from Yekaterinburg, Russia, heading north to the icy wastes of Surgut. No one’s heard of Surgut, an oil and gas town in the armpit of the country’s Polar Ural region. Even most Russians have never heard of it. But on a freezing February day, we stepped off an icy train platform with a mission: to buy an old Ural motorbike and sidecar and ride it 1,000 miles up the Ob River to the Arctic Circle. Tom, founder of adventure anarchists The Adventurists, has a unique talent for coming up with ridiculous ideas, muttered absent PLQGHGO\ RYHU D GRJ HDUHG PDS DQG D FXS RI WHD LQ WKH FRPSDQ\·V Bristol HQ. Most of these proposals either make people snort with outrage and reach for the complaint form, or sell their offspring DQG UH PRUWJDJH WKHLU KRXVH LQ RUGHU WR WDNH SDUW LQ WKH H[SHULHQFH Generally, Tom’s mutterings end up as hugely successful events that raise mountains of cash for charity (The Mongol Rally, Rickshaw Run, and Mototaxi Junket are a few examples), but even I doubted whether he’d pushed the adventure envelope too far with this latest Siberian idea. Old Ural motorbikes aren’t known for their reliability, DQG WHPSHUDWXUHV LQ 6LEHULD LQ PLG ZLQWHU DUH FU\RJHQLFDOO\ FROG ,W ZDV D OLPE WKUHDWHQLQJO\ OHWKDO FRPELQDWLRQ 8QGHWHUUHG E\ VXFK OLO\ OLYHUHG SURWHVWDWLRQV 7RP WKH DIRUH PHQWLRQHG WDS GDQFLQJ FRPHGLDQ %XGG\ DQG , VHW RII WR 6LEHULD LQ February to attempt the mission. On paper, none of us were exactly cut out for an Arctic motorbike adventure. Tom’s bike experience stretched to coaxing a recalcitrant mototaxi over the Peruvian An des, Buddy’s was limited to several hours on an antediluvian Ural in Mongolia, and mine included passing my moto test in the U.K. six years earlier and barely sitting on anything other than a Honda Cub since. What we did have, however, was a joint pedigree in sur viving outlandish escapades. Moreover, Tom, as well as having the determination of a charging buffalo, was a brilliant mechanic, and Buddy was the fearless idiot with a string of extreme TV presenting FUHGLWV , KDG WKH DELOLW\ WR ÀOP ZKDW XQIROGHG DQG KRSHIXOO\ UHLQ LQ WKH ER\V· PRUH H[WUHPH GHDWK GHI\LQJ VWXQWV ,I ZH VXFFHHGHG and returned intact, The Adventurists would launch a new event the following winter: The Ice Run. If we failed and lived to tell the tale, well, we’d just put it down to a jolly good adventure.

Tom perfects his snowboarding skills on the frozen Ob River. Opening page: ;OL [LHT [HRLZ VU VUL VM :PILYPH»Z THU` zimniks PJL YVHKZ Overland Journal Spring 2015

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Frozen for more than six months of the year and a mosquito-infested swamp in summer, it’s hard to imagine a less hospitable environment.

A man welds his homemade ATV, the ideal machine MVY JYVZZPUN :PILYPH»Z [YPJR` [LYYHPU 6\Y UL^ MYPLUKZ! =HZPS` VU SLM[ [OL ZLSM HWWVPU[LK UHUU` [V [OL NYV\W and a Tartar man named Roman from the village of Kidrovia. Opposite: Dinner al fresco, Siberian style.

Our start point was Surgut, a mere dot on the vast ocean of Siberia. )RXQGHG \HDUV DJR DV D IXU WUDGLQJ RXWSRVW WKH WRZQ KDV UHFHQWO\ exploded to a population of 300,000 thanks to an oil and gas frenzy. )UR]HQ IRU PRUH WKDQ VL[ PRQWKV RI WKH \HDU DQG D PRVTXLWR LQIHVWHG swamp in summer, it’s hard to imagine a less hospitable environment. For our purposes, however, it was perfectly located on the banks of the Ob River, our planned conduit to the Arctic. Furthermore, via the wonders of the Internet, we’d made contact with a group of bikers there who were keen to help our group of “crazy English people.” Since the main problem when we arrived in Surgut was the lack of a bike, help was exactly what we needed. Roman and Alexei, our new Surgutian biker friends, were both exSpetsnaz (Russian Special Forces), giants of men who’d done several tours in Chechnya. They thought the whole venture was of the utmost hilarity, and soon word had spread through the whole Surgut biker community. Of particular entertainment to them was Buddy, the ab solute antithesis of Russian machismo. Bespectacled, thin as a rasher of wind, and permanently garbed in tweed, every one of their biker cronies who appeared in Roman’s bike shop to ogle us would grab %XGG\·V WZLJ OLNH DUPV DQG FROODSVH LQWR ODXJKWHU 2QH RI WKHP D UH gional dirt bike champion, took great mirth in telling us how we’d either be eaten by wolves or freeze to death. “Would you like to come with us?” I asked him in jest. “Not for a million dollars” he replied, EHIRUH OHWWLQJ RXW D JROG WRRWKHG FDFNOH Despite their reservations, they did all they could to help, and two days later, we were the proud owners of a 1993, 650cc pale green Ural 7RXULVW«ERXJKW IRU URXEOHV 86' IURP D ZLOG H\HG H[ convict called Valody. Our bike had been manufactured a full decade before Ural underwent a buyout and major transformation in 2003, and looked and sounded every inch as if it had fought in the battle of Stalingrad. It was fabulous. Roman and Alexei didn’t agree. To us the old Ural was an icon. Its almost unchanged 1940’s design, based on the BMW R71, was a thing of great beauty. To them it represented outdated, clunky Communist technology, a symbol of Soviet failure. Why not a nice reliable Honda? :H LPDJLQHG VSHHGLQJ DFURVV WKH VQRZ\ WXQGUD WR WKH JORULRXV SXW SXW RI D 6RYLHW VLQJOH F\OLQGHU JRJJOHV Á\LQJ LQ WKH $UFWLF ZLQG 5RPDQ and Alexei imagined us freezing to death after having burnt every last inch of our Ural to keep warm. Hopefully our vision would prove the more accurate.

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6LQFH RXU UXVW\ VWHHG KDG EHHQ ODQJXLVKLQJ LQ D VXE ]HUR JDUDJH IRU D ZKLOH WKHUH ZHUH D IHZ PRGLÀFDWLRQV WR EH GRQH EHIRUH WKH MRXUQH\ QRUWK 1HZ VRIW SURÀOH and knobby winter tyres were bought, an Odyssey bat WHU\ FDSDEOH RI ZRUNLQJ GRZQ WR & ZDV ÀWWHG KHDW ed handlebar grips were connected, and snowmobile oil was poured into the engine to keep it from freezing. We also bought special snowmobile facemasks, local felt valenki ERRWV DQG DQ DOO LQ RQH GRZQ RYHUVXLW GHVLJQHG for oil workers building pipelines in temperatures as low DV & 'XEEHG WKH ´IDWVXLWµ E\ 7RP WKLV ZRXOG EH ZRUQ E\ WKH GULYHU ZKR·G JHW WKH EUXQW RI WKH ERQH chilling Siberian wind. Before we left, Roman and Alexei announced that WKHLU JRRG IULHQG 9DVLO\ ZRXOG HVFRUW XV IRU WKH ÀUVW few days. Not only were they concerned about bears, ZROYHV DQG EDQGLWV EXW LW ZDV GXH WR EH & WKH following week, the sort of cold that causes frostbite and hypothermia within minutes—a silent killer with no mercy. Before we had a chance to resist, Vasily ap Overland Journal Spring 2015

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These were people whom we’d never met, yet whose kindness towards us was fathomless.

9VHKZPKL YLWHPYZ HYL Q\Z[ WHY[ VM [OL WLJ\SPHY HSS\YL of riding a Ural. Russian policemen are good people to have as friends. Opposite: Hanging out with the Khanty people, one of the indigenous groups of the Polar Ural region. Previous spread: Villagers are always the best people to ask for local directions.

peared. He had piercing blue eyes, a wrestler’s shoulders and a wicked laugh, and didn’t look like the sort of man you should disagree with. “No problem, I have two guns,” he said in heavily accented English, pointing to his brand new Land Cruiser with mischievously twinkling eyes. Vasily was going to escort us, and that was that. While he was ZLWK XV , ZRXOG ÀOP DQG DOWHUQDWH EHWZHHQ ULGLQJ LQ WKH FDU DQG ELNH Once he left, the three of us would squeeze onto the bike—jerry cans, VOHHSLQJ EDJV DQG DOO :LWK WKH PHUFXU\ DW & ZH VHW RII IRU 6DOH NKDUG ZDYLQJ JRRGE\H WR D VPDOO FURZG RI ZRUULHG ORRNLQJ ELNHUV 7R WKH DPD]HPHQW RI RXU 5XVVLDQ HQWRXUDJH WKH 8UDO PDGH LW WKH ÀUVW PLOHV LQ D VLQJOH KRXU UXQ WR .KDQW\ 0DQVL\VN 7KH UHDO DGYHQWXUH VWDUWHG DV ZH WXUQHG QRUWK IURP .KDQW\ 0DQ VL\VN VWHHULQJ RII WKH LF\ WDUPDF RQWR RXU ÀUVW zimnik, or winter road. Carved out of the packed snow and ice by mammoth snow ploughs, zimniks are the lifeblood of Siberia in winter. Without any actual roads between Surgut and Salekhard, zimniks and the mighty Ob are the only transport routes available to the remote villages that dot the region. Oh, the joy of hitting the snow! As far as the eye could see was a blinding blanket of white, broken only by the odd silver birch copse. The bike skidded and bumped along, her new tyres gripping the SDFNHG VQRZ ZLWK UHPDUNDEOH HIIHFW DQG KHU WUDFWRU OLNH HQJLQH UXGHO\ shattering the stillness. Fortunately, there hadn’t been a heavy snowfall recently. The surface was hard and relatively smooth, and we were pro pelled across the frozen tundra at a steady 30 mph. Heavy snow could spell trouble further north, where the zimniks were rarely cleared and we would easily get stuck. For now we were in luck and progressed easily. The zimnik ZDV HPSW\ EDU WKH RGG 6RYLHW HUD VQRZPRELOH DQG D handful of lumbering oil and gas trucks. That night we stayed with some of Vasily’s hunting friends in Kidrovia, a medieval looking wooden village on the banks of the frozen Ob. According to his friends, Roman and Nadia, we were the ÀUVW IRUHLJQHUV HYHU WR YLVLW .LGURYLD DQG ZH VSHQW WKH QLJKW GRZQLQJ YRGND DQG HDWLQJ IDEXORXV ORFDO ÀVK FKHHVH DQG EUHDG 5RPDQ D GDUN eyed Tartar, had served in the Soviet Army in Mongolia, but Nadia had never met a foreigner. She spent the evening excitedly holding my hand DQG VWXIÀQJ XV ZLWK PRUH DQG PRUH IRRG /LNH RXU IULHQGV LQ 6XUJXW and our companion Vasily, these were people whom we’d never met, yet whose kindness towards us was fathomless. The Ural had clearly enjoyed her stay in Kidrovia too, for in the morning no amount of pushing, swearing, or new spark plugs could

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What a feeling it was to ride through the Siberian night under that glittering star-lit vault. Snow HUK PJL ÄSSLK [OL OVYPaVU HUK [OL sky was so vast it was as if we were swimming in a sea of stars.

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A zimnik H[ K\ZR 0U Z\Tmer these roads dissolve into impassable swamps.

FDMROH KHU WR VWDUW 7RP QRUPDOO\ DEOH WR À[ DQ\ PHFKDQLFDO JOLWFK ZDV ÁXPPR[HG DV ZDV WKH LQFUHDVLQJO\ GUXQN FURZG RI EXUO\ PHQ ZKR DS peared to lend a hand. The problem turned out to be the ignition tim ing, and it wasn’t until the shadows began to lengthen (and the bike had EHHQ SXOOHG DSDUW WKDW WKH HQJLQH ÀQDOO\ FKRNHG WR OLIH $W OHDVW WKH GH OD\ KDG JLYHQ XV D FKDQFH WR H[SORUH WKH YLOODJH·V ZRRGHQ KRXVHV RQLRQ GRPHG FKXUFK DQG IUR]HQ ÀVKLQJ ERDWV :H ZHUH JLYHQ D WRXU RI WKH local school, where we were paraded on stage like exotic animals; Buddy entertained everyone with juggling, dancing, and jumping in the snow. There’s a saying that laughter is the shortest distance between people, and having Buddy with us, always making people laugh, was a constant asset. Everyone should travel with their own personal comedian. The next morning, under a cloudless winter sky, we said goodbye to 9DVLO\ DQG RXU KRVWV 9DVLO\·V H\HV ÀOOHG ZLWK WHDUV DV ZH KXJJHG JRRG E\H DQG ZH SURPLVHG WR PHHW DJDLQ 1DGLD SUHVVHG KDQG NQLWWHG JORYHV and freshly baked apple cake into our hands, and Roman enveloped us LQ EHDU OLNH KXJV )URP QRZ RQ ZH ZHUH RQ RXU RZQ :LWK 7RP GULYLQJ Buddy folded into the sidecar, and me pillion, we set off north, skim ming for a while over the smooth surface of the Ob. Fuel was going to be scarce from here on, so as well as sleeping bags, a tent, stove, food, ÀOPLQJ HTXLSPHQW DQG D VSDUH W\UH DQG WRRONLW ZH DOVR KDG D OLWUH MHUU\ FDQ ÀOOHG ZLWK SHWURO 6LQFH WKH 8UDO KDG D OHVV WKDQ PLOH UDQJH DQG RIÀFLDO SHWURO VWDWLRQV GLGQ·W H[LVW EHWZHHQ .LGURYLD DQG 6DOHNKDUG ZH ZHUH FRXQWLQJ RQ EHLQJ DEOH WR EX\ EODFN PDUNHW IXHO LQ YLOODJHV DORQJ our route. We were now around 500 miles from Salekhard, but with so much WLPH ORVW ÀQGLQJ DQG À[LQJ WKH ELNH JHWWLQJ WKHUH EHIRUH RXU ÁLJKW KRPH was looking increasingly unlikely. Tom was absolutely determined we would make it however, and that day we drove long into the night. Al WKRXJK WKH WHPSHUDWXUH ZDV KRYHULQJ DURXQG D IDLUO\ FOHPHQW & WKH windchill was brutal, and keeping warm became our primary concern. The driver, aided by the fatsuit, heated handlebars, and the windshield fared best, whilst the unfortunate soul in the sidecar came off worst. Rid LQJ LQ WKH VLGHFDU ZDV OLNH EHLQJ VWXIIHG LQWR D VWHHO FRIÀQ DQG RQH·V IHHW which were wedged into the nose cone, rapidly froze. Every two hours we’d stop, swap positions, ram a chocolate bar down our throats, force RXUVHOYHV WR UXQ XS DQG GRZQ XQWLO ZH FRXOG IHHO RXU ÀQJHUV DQG WRHV and check each other’s faces for the telltale waxiness of frostnip. Gener ally, at these stops the bike would break down and we’d lose another 20 minutes changing spark plugs and pushing her until she started again. $W 1L]KQ\ 1RY\NDU\ D WLQ\ VHWWOHPHQW RQ WKH 2E ZH ÀQDOO\ JDYH LQ WR WKH IDFW ZH ZHUHQ·W JRLQJ WR PDNH LW WR WKH $UFWLF &LUFOH 2XU ÁLJKW KRPH from Moscow was in two days and the only way we were going to make it was to turn around and get a train from the town of Priobe, which was a day’s ride south. Salekhard was a mere 300 miles away, but with the bike GHYHORSLQJ PRUH SUREOHPV HDFK GD\ RQH RI WKH ÁRDWV LQ WKH FDUEXUHWWRU had now developed a leak), it was sadly out of our reach. Without doubt though, The Ice Run was possible. If we could make it this far with so little preparation, such an old Ural, and with three of us on a single bike,

WKHQ EHWWHU SUHSDUHG WHDPV ZRXOG GHÀQLWHO\ EH DEOH WR GR LW WKH QH[W \HDU We’d have to leave the elation of getting to Salekhard to them. The cold aside, what a feeling it was to ride through the Siberian night XQGHU WKDW JOLWWHULQJ VWDU OLW YDXOW 6QRZ DQG LFH ÀOOHG WKH KRUL]RQ DQG the sky was so vast it was as if we were swimming in a sea of stars. All we could hear was the growling engine of the Ural. Rarely have I felt so in ÀQLWHVLPDOO\ VPDOO LQ WKLV ZRUOG DQG LW ZDV RQH RI WKRVH H[SHULHQFHV WKDW will be etched in my mind forever. As we turned the bike around and steered her south, an old man ZKR KDG EHHQ ZDWFKLQJ XV FXULRXVO\ ÁDJJHG XV GRZQ DQG SUHVVHG DQ HQRUPRXV IUR]HQ ÀVK LQWR RXU KDQGV DV D JLIW ZLVKLQJ XV JRRG OXFN 6R WRXFKHG ZHUH ZH DW WKH PDQ·V NLQG JHVWXUH WKDW ZH FDUULHG WKDW ÀVK DOO the way back to Yekaterinburg. What a strange sight we must have been: WKUHH IRUHLJQHUV DQG D ODUJH ÀVK KHDGLQJ LQWR WKH VXQVHW RQ DQ ROG 8UDO -VSSV^ (U[Z VU '(U[Z)2 VY ÄUK V\[ HIV\[ WHY[PJPWH[PUN PU OLY (\N\Z[ Siberian adventure at theitinerant.co.uk. Her second book, A Short Ride in the Jungle: the Ho Chi Minh Trail by Motorcycle is available now as an e-book and WHWLYIHJR :PNU \W MVY ;OL (K]LU[\YPZ[Z» 0JL 9\U H[ theadventurists.com.

Ice Run Survival Kit 0JLIYLHRLY TLYPUV IHZL SH`LYZ [VW HUK IV[[VT Thick woolly socks ;OPJR ^VVSSLU JHZOTLYL Q\TWLY 9HI 7LY[L_ QHJRL[ [^V +V^U QHJRL[Z 4VU[HUL HUK 9HI Oil workers fatsuit Snowboarding salopettes Hein Gericke motorbike trousers Silk liner gloves Rab Arctic Mittens Russian fur mittens Sorel Caribou snow boots 3VJHS 9\ZZPHU valenki felt boots /V[[PLZ OHUK HUK MVV[ ^HYTLYZ LZZLU[PHS 7VSHY )\Ɉ >PUKZ[VWWLY Rab skullcap Open-face helmet Ski goggles Oxford heated handlebar grips Odyssey battery /HUKSLIHY T\ɈZ

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Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

ROUTE Siberian Ice Run

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30=05. 3,.,5+: 0U[LY]PL^ I` 3VPZ 7Y`JL 0THNLZ JV\Y[LZ` VM ;OL Ted Simon Foundation Captions by Ted Simon

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Ted Simon 7KH SDWULDUFK RI DGYHQWXUH PRWRUF\FOLQJ UHÁHFWV on 40 years and two circumnavigations of the planet.

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ed Simon will be a familiar name to many Overland Journal UHDGHUV +LV PLOH journey around the world in 1973 on a 500cc Triumph Tiger was impressive by anyone’s standards. But above all, he deserves the epi WKHW RI /LYLQJ /HJHQG IRU WKH IDFW WKDW KLV IRXU \HDU RG yssey resulted in him writing the book that is responsible for bringing what we now call “adventure motorcycling” into public consciousness. Now celebrating its 40th an niversary, Jupiter’s Travels has become one of the classics of adventure literature, and more than any other motor cycle travel book, has inspired others to hit the road. As Ted states early on in the book, “It was going to be the journey of a lifetime, a journey that millions dream of and never make, and I wanted to do justice to all those dreams.” Ted had moved on from a successful career in jour nalism and was restoring an ancient ruin in the South of France when itchy feet got the better of him; he set off DV D \HDU ROG QRYLFH ULGHU WR H[SORUH WKH ZRUOG 7KH result was an exquisitely written tale of what happens when a curious, enquiring mind meets a 1970’s British motorcycle. Jupiter’s Travels is full of humour and insights into the human condition, as well as all the escapades one would expect from such a grand adventure. It is a ERRN WKDW FKDQJHV OLYHV DQG WKH KDOI PLOOLRQ FRSLHV VROG DUH D WHVWDPHQW WR LWV ODVWLQJ LQÁXHQFH Although he is best known for his motorcycling ad YHQWXUHV 7HG LV FHUWDLQO\ QR RQH WULFN SRQ\ +LV QDWXUDO FXULRVLW\ DQG joie de vivre has UHVXOWHG LQ KLV OLIH WDNLQJ PDQ\ GLUHFWLRQV RYHU WKH \HDUV³IURP MRXUQDOLVP KRXVH EXLOG ing, and organic farming, to authoring books on subjects as diverse as Grand Prix motor racing and California’s water supply. In 2000, at age 69, Ted Simon got back in the saddle and set off to retrace the route RI KLV RULJLQDO DURXQG WKH ZRUOG ULGH 7KH UHVXOWLQJ ERRN Dreaming of Jupiter, is a fas cinating if sometimes melancholic view of how the world had changed in the 30 years VLQFH KLV ÀUVW WULS $ IHZ \HDUV ODWHU UHWXUQLQJ WR KLV URRWV KH PDGH D MRXUQH\ DURXQG WKH 8 . SHUFKHG RQ D WKUHH ZKHHOHG VFRRWHU DQG ZURWH Rolling Through the Isles, a witty and ZDUP UHÁHFWLRQ RQ WKH WUDQVIRUPDWLRQ RI KLV KRPH FRXQWU\ RYHU WKH ODVW IRXU GHFDGHV Although Jupiter’s Travels is the book that not only launched Ted, but also launched a thousand trips, Ted is always keen to make the point, “It’s not about the motorcycle.” He freely admits that he knows “almost nothing” about motorcycles, “as long as they go.”

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Can you give a potted history of your early life?

My mother and father came from funny places. My father started in Romania and wandered into Sudan before getting into England. My mother came over from Hamburg. In a way this completely separated me from the average. The fact that I had two languages from the age RI ÀYH PDNHV D ELJ GLIIHUHQFH LQ how you feel about yourself and the world. I was raised through the war and really needed to get out of England: we were all imprisoned there during the war. In that par WLFXODU WLPH LPPHGLDWH SRVW ZDU Europe, everything had been so bleak and miserable for such a long time; people lived in very narrow little worlds. They were almost liv ing in their kitchen sinks and not really getting out. And when you were outside, the streets were drab and wet.

I don’t feel so much like a wanderer. I just feel as though I am part of the world.

Your dad obviously had the roaming gene in his blood. Where do you think you got the urge to travel?

He was a wandering Jew but I don’t feel so much like a wanderer. I just feel as though I am part of the world. As soon as I started travelling the whole thing became more and more demanding. I wanted more and more to get away. I lived in Paris for a while, and then I had to make some money, so I became a jour nalist in the U.K. I worked quite hard and did quite well. Then I left that because it wasn’t going the way I wanted it to go. What way did you want it to go?

Visiting with teachers from the school in Kinedra, Sudan. Sorting out my belongings on a beach UVY[O VM 3PTH 7LY\ Right: Jupiter’s Travels: Four Years Around the World on a Triumph has ZVSK TVYL [OHU H OHSM TPSSPVU JVWPLZ ZPUJL P[Z ÄYZ[ WYPU[PUN PU Opposite: On the deck of the AVL . VU [OL ^H` [V )YHaPS Opening page: Back PU 3VUKVU ÄUHSS` PU (\N\Z[ VM 0 THYRLK [OL LUK VM T` QV\YUL` I` ZOH]PUN VɈ T` T\Z[HJOL¯ I\[ 0 ZVVU NYL^ P[ IHJR

Well, I thought that the newspapers should be more honest and tell people more of what was really happening. Instead, they were using most of their time and energy trying to get advertising. You have said, in reference to that period in Britain, how one of the good things about modern life is that there is not such deference to authority.

Things were very hierarchical. But I never felt hampered by that because I had been raised in such an untypical way. Although we were

really poor, my mother had very powerful political opinions. In a way it kind of sepa rated me from the general crowd. It never occurred to me that I would be in any way hampered by the class system. I was lucky, but I have met quite a lot of people who were ground down by it and left England because of it. After your around-the-world trip you wrote Jupiter’s Travels, and have been talking about it since. Do you ever get bored talking about motorcycles?

Well, I have to accept it is part of my fate… my fate as a living legend [he laughs]. But I am lucky because I only really became a living legend quite late in the game. When , ÀQLVKHG Jupiter’s Travels I didn’t talk to any body about it for ages. It only became part of my life 15 years later when American bikers rediscovered it. Can you expand on this?

First of all, I had never had anything to do with bikers, so there were no bikers to ask me about it. Virtually no one I knew had read the book. I got married, had a baby, and moved to California. All these things had nothing whatsoever to do with it. The book was selling very well in Eng land, but I wasn’t there. Then it got trans lated into French and did tremendously well. I made the classic error of leaving France just when it would have done me a lot of good to be there. It came to America and I got a huge advance because the guy who bought it thought it was going to be a whirlwind bestseller, but it didn’t do well at all. It was treated in America with a sort of polite disdain. Why do you think the Americans KPKU»[ NL[ P[ PU [OL ^H` the Europeans did?

Well, it has been a puzzle ever since. I think America sim ply didn’t believe that a Brit could do anything particularly amazing, and they kept looking for reasons why I had done it. The Los Angeles Times, for Overland Journal Spring 2015

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example, had a big review, but it was all about [being] a holdover from the British Empire.

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Ah, the old accusations of colonialism?

Yes, trotting around old colonial possessions and things. The New York Times did a really snobby little bit of writing. It is actually very hard not to be touched by reviews. I wasn’t badly hurt by it, but I was annoyed. Mean while in the U.K., the book did attract many different kinds of people. Why do you think it has been so successful?

Well, because it was written with tremen dous passion, and I think that is conveyed within the book. It could have been a big success and then just died, and it hasn’t.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

\HDUV DIWHU LW ÀUVW FDPH RXW LQ WKH 8 6 SHRSOH started bringing over little consignments of the British Penguin copies. I thought, “Well, if they are selling them I might as well get in on it.” Do you feel that American motorcyclists have somehow taken you to heart now?

Yes. I tested the waters before I published it, and went to various BMW rallies. The re ception was so overwhelming that I thought, “How can I fail with this?” Does it ever bother you that people tend to MVJ\Z VU [OL QV\YUL` HUK [OL IPRL YH[OLY than your writing, your thoughts, and ideas?

0[ OHZ UL]LY ILLU V\[ VM WYPU[ PU ,UNSHUK I\[ PU (TLYPJH P[ ^HZ! `V\ WPJRLK P[ \W HUK published it yourself.

To put it in a slightly different way, I suppose I have always been a bit miffed that the book was never regarded from the point of view of literary merit. I have never really looked for adulation, but it is awfully nice to have it. It is great to be loved.

Yes. It was out of print in the U.S. for a long time, and then the travel biking community discovered it. Around 1994 or 1995, almost 15

The idea of motorcycling around the world is so enormous and exciting that it almost

takes over. Do you think this is because the story is so huge?

Well, yes. I mean, you don’t want people to read your book and say, “Isn’t the writing won derful?” What you real ly want is for the writ ing to be good enough to make them forget it is good writing—you just want them to be swept away. ([ HNL `LHYZ HM[LY Jupiter’s Travels, `V\ YLJYLH[LK `V\Y VYPNPUHS QV\YUL` and wrote Dreaming of Jupiter. Was it simple curiosity or did you want to do exactly what you did before and see how it had changed?

Yes, both of those and then some. I wanted to report on how the world had changed, but I was also curious to see how I would perform. But on top of that I was really excited by the thought of seeing some of those marvellous places, and maybe also people, again.

It was going to be the journey of a lifetime, a journey that millions dream of and never make, and I wanted to do justice to all those dreams.

0 NV[ [OL ZLUZL [OH[ `V\ ILJHTL ^LHY` VU [OH[ QV\YUL` >HZ P[ Q\Z[ HNL VY ^HZ [OLYL H feeling of repetition?

, ZDV MXVW DV ZHDU\ RQ WKH ÀUVW MRXUQH\ 7KDW LV ZK\ >RQ WKH ÀUVW MRXUQH\@ , ZHQW WKURXJK Afghanistan, Iran, and Turkey at the speed of light. It was just that I wanted to get home, which is a great shame. I think now of what I could have done and seen in Afghanistan and Iran in those days. But you do get tired at the end of it.

Were there times when you were really scared?

In a prison in Brazil, and dodging the curfew in Santiago, Chile. When did you laugh most?

In the courtyard of the Currypot Hotel in Kibwezi, Kenya, talking about falling pigs and snakebites. Where are women most beautiful?

Colombia! How had the world changed in the years between trips?

After 30 years it has become harder to take pleasure in these marvels. The famous sites are controlled, access is regimented, and traf ÀF LQWHUIHUHV ZLWK VROLWXGH 0DQ\ WLPHV WKH miles and miles of slums and construction that have to be penetrated to get to the heart of a city make it more of a penance. But these are the thoughts of an old man. Do you still feel the urge to travel?

Well, yes, but not really in the same way. Can you explain?

Yes, absolutely, but mostly because of what I had to say about the world; that was the ma jor part of my incentive for doing it.

I know that I could go to lots of places that I have never been to, and it would be inter esting to go to Japan, and China, and Russia. Russia I have done a bit; Japan and China, not at all. But when you have travelled for many, many years—and you will know this your self—even though you haven’t been some where and you may not have any idea of the language or anything, you can pretty much anticipate what is going to happen, what it is going to be like.

What are you most memorable experiences or favourite places?

0Z [OPZ ILJH\ZL `V\ UL]LY YLJHW[\YL [OH[ ÄYZ[ UHP]L[`&

It shouldn’t be surprising to hear that the most famous sights are still among the best. The Iguazu Falls are overwhelming, the Pyra mids incredible, and Machu Picchu is amaz ing. But then there’s Bariloche and the Andes, which become more and more gorgeous as

I suppose so. You don’t really ever recover WKDW ÀUVW DPD]LQJ GLVFRYHU\ RI KRZ WKLQJV are. You can’t expect to sustain the same ec stasy forever, but there are new ones. New things come along.

Are you glad you did it the second time?

0U 7LY\ VU [OL YVVM VM :V\[O (TLYPJH 9LWHPYPUN an inner tube on the road to Ayacucho, Peru. Opposite: ([ [OL W`YHTPKZ PU ^P[O -HYPZ H JHTLS KYP]LY ^OVT 0 ^V\SK TLL[ HNHPU `LHYZ SH[LY 0U 5HPYVIP 0 ^HZ YLJLP]LK I` H IPN ÅVYPK 3\JHZ HNLU[ ^OV ÅL^ TL [V [OL ;\YRHUH HUK [VVR TL [V HSS [OL VSK JVSVUPHS PUZ[P[\[PVUZ 0 PU [\YU posed for publicity photos like this.

you travel north to Colombia. The vast Afri can sky over the limitless veldt, the irrepress ible joyousness of the Brazilian people, and the tangible spirituality of India. The Taj Ma hal is astonishingly beautiful.

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Can you tell me a little bit about the other [OPUNZ `V\ OH]L KVUL [OH[ HYLU»[ [YH]LSSPUN or motorcycling?

Well, the great problem for me has been rec onciling the fact that though I love to travel, I really like making things work at home. I love building stuff. I have a lot of ideas about how things should be, but I have never fully realised them, so I have built several houses. When I travel I am usually most attracted to those parts of the country where I can imag ine myself living and growing stuff. I am not as attracted to vast, bleak desert landscapes as many people are. I can see the beauty of it, but I don’t want to be there really. I want to be in places where things can grow. How did you end up in California?

The bike at rest in the Coventry Transport Museum, England. Opposite, clockwise from top: 0U 5VY[OLHZ[ 0UKPH ^OLYL [OL YVHK KLKPJH[LK [V =PULgar Joe runs from Assam to Burma. Relaxing after the gruelling ride from Gedaref, Sudan, to Gondar, Ethiopia, in 2001. Recovered and rebuilt after my smash on the road to Medellin, Colombia.

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Well, halfway through the Jupiter’s Travels jour ney I got to California. I had been invited to visit some people who lived on a commune. So I was on this commune, which was an ex traordinary privilege for a Brit in the 1970s. It was a lovely thing; everybody in England was watching television programs about com munes and having fantasies of free love and all that kind of thing. I found it was a very nice experience at the time, and people really did go to great

lengths to free themselves from judgements, and were very open to any kind of emotional connection with each other that they might feel. It was very interesting, and the country side was beautiful. I stayed for a while, but ZHQW RQ WR ÀQLVK WKH MRXUQH\ DQG PHHW P\ ÀUVW ZLIH We were living in France and there were things going on in the neighbourhood that ZHUH PDNLQJ RXU PDUULDJH YHU\ GLIÀFXOW , thought, “If we are going to move, we might as well really move.” I considered going back to where the commune had been, but didn’t plan to live there. They have a good life but it doesn’t go on forever. But the area was very nice, and we found a nice piece of land in the valley. That was in 1980. It is a community that supports itself more or less. I am two miles away from a small town where there is a shop that provides most of the things that you need. Can you tell us about your organic farming?

I started farming because I found that our personal situation didn’t actually improve tre mendously after we moved. Writing became YHU\ GLIÀFXOW WR GR , GLG ZULWH Riding High when I was there, and we came back to Lon GRQ IRU D ZKLOH DV ZHOO %XW LW ZDV YHU\ GLIÀ

Making yourself vulnerable and entering into the life of those you travel amongst is the best way to let the journey change you for the better.

cult, and I had this lovely land and I thought, “Well, I should do something with the land instead.” It was an interesting valley because there had been a genius of a horticulturalist there who had created the ultimate organic ELR LQWHQVLYH JDUGHQ +H KDG WUDLQHG D QXP ber of otherwise aimless young people from the Bay Area who had come up to be his disciples. They did marvellous things, but he was such a snob and an autocrat that it never oc curred to him that he wasn’t immortal. When he got sick and had to leave there was nobody left to look after this place; none of them had learned to do anything but slave. I thought we could give them something to do and cre ated this vegetable farm. I knew that there was no point in growing all this stuff unless you knew how you were going to sell it. That gave me the idea to enrol people that I knew in the San Francisco area to support this as a kind of communal garden. I was able to write glowing prose that would market the idea and they all agreed to do it. Meanwhile, Jupiter’s Travels was ticking over in England?

Well it goes through spurts. Ewan Mc Gregor’s thing helped enormously [Ted was ÁRZQ RXW WR DSSHDU LQ (ZDQ 0F*UHJRU·V Long Way Round TV show]. The sales shot up,

and in the U.S. it chugs along pretty mer rily so far. Do you ever feel typecast by it?

No, not really. The only way in which it could hamper me would be if it meant that I couldn’t write about anything else. But I can and I have, so it doesn’t really cramp my style in that way. People are willing to listen to me about most things. Jupiter’s Travels has always been just a great pleasure for me and a support in my old age.

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Does the fact that you chose a motorcycle OH]L ZVTL[OPUN [V KV ^P[O [OL IVVR»Z JVUtinuing popularity?

Yes, I think I could have probably written a good book about doing it in some other way, but I think it might have been the sort of book that does well and then dies. The saving grace about the motorcycle community is that they mix and meet much more than others do. If it had been about sailing, Land Rovering, or whatever, I don’t know if it would have had the staying power, but I have been adopted by all these people. Are you always thinking about writing, always planning the next book?

A little less than I used to, but writing is still my thing. I haven’t got one planned, but I have Overland Journal Spring 2015

got lots of thoughts about books that I might write possibly, if I can still. I’m always unsure that I am going to be able to write another one. It is hard to imagine myself not being able to do it.

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/H]L `V\ LUQV`LK KPNNPUN HSS [OVZL WPJ[\YLZ out and putting them together for your latest book, Jupiter’s Travels in Camera?

Yes, the original idea was that I would take bits out of the books that I have already written, but it didn’t work at all. In the end I rewrote large parts of the story in a different way. It has been a tremendous rejuvenation.

er today. But still I think every traveller’s ambi tion should be to get lost in the world. Making yourself vulnerable and entering into the life of those you travel amongst is the best way to let the journey change you for the better. With WKH EXR\DQF\ DQG RSWLPLVP RI \RXWK D ÀUVW journey around the world would be every bit as exciting and illuminating as mine was. The best times, on both journeys, were always with people. That hasn’t changed. Travel light, take a small bike, don’t waste time and money on accessories, learn languages, go slow. That way you’ll meet people.

So, the living legend lives on?

Better a living legend than a dead one!

On the quay at Mevagissey, England, shortly beMVYL [OL IPN ÅVVK VM 0 ^YV[L [OL IVVR Rolling Through the Isles after my 2010 ride through [OL SHUK 0 NYL^ \W PU

Overland Journal Spring 2015

Do you have any advice for someone who may want to do a similar trip or write a book about one?

No journey today can ever be like mine was. It is virtually impossible to escape from the web of communications that binds us to each oth

Jupiter’s Travels: In Camera is a compilation of the Kodachrome slides [HRLU VU ;LK»Z ÄYZ[ QV\YUL` ;V SLHYU TVYL about The Ted Simon Foundation and his new book, visit jupiterstravellers.org.

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Del Albright

Empowering Kids For those of us who love exploring the great outdoors by vehicle or motorcycle, watching our kids become enthralled in video games, pods, and pads ^OLU [OL` ZOV\SK IL LUQV`PUN [OL ^VYSK HYV\UK [OLT JHU IL \UULY]PUN <UMVY[\UH[LS` [OPZ PZ ^OH[ ^L OH]L [V JVTWL[L ^P[O PU [VKH`»Z ^VYSK ;V WHZZ on our passion to future generations, we need to engage young people and share with them what we love about our sport.

Photo by Bob Turner

Hobbies and organizations with a future have found a way to include and empower our gizmo-obsessed youth through outdoor activities, volunteerism, HUK JVUZLY]H[PVU ^VYR 0M ^L [OL ¸TVYL L_WLYPLUJLK ¹ KVU»[ PUZ[PSS PU RPKZ [OL spirit of adventure and get them outside with their eyes wide open, our beSV]LK HJ[P]P[` TPNO[ K^PUKSL VU [OL ]PUL )\[ MLHY UV[ T` V]LYSHUKPUN MYPLUKZ 0 have a few suggestions.

Del Albright, land-use ambassador at large, shares tips on inspiring kids through conservation and education.

Electronics @V\ ULLKU»[ Y\U JVTWSL[LS` MYVT `V\Y JOPSKYLU»Z \ZL VM LSLJ[YVUPJZ" PUZ[LHK ÄUK ^H`Z [V LTIYHJL [OLT ^OPSL SPTP[PUN [OLPY \ZL ^OLU [OL MHTPS` PZ LUQV`PUN [OL V\[KVVYZ 0M `V\Y RPKZ HYL VU 0UZ[HNYHT VY @V\;\IL \YNL them to explore adventure-oriented channels, or share photographs of outKVVY HJ[P]P[PLZ 7LYOHWZ MVSSV^ PU T` [YHJRZ HZ HU V\[KVVY ]VS\U[LLY VY QVPU an organization like the BlueRibbon Coalition to plant the conservation seed. Also consider managing their distractions during outdoor adventures; let them play with their electronics while on the pavement. School Presentations Sharing your experiences as an overlander with young people can have a long-lasting impact—yes, this means dedicating time to a school classroom or youth program meeting. By arranging a slideshow, `V\ JHU [HRL H NYV\W VM RPKZ VU H WOV[V QV\YUL` HJYVZZ (MYPJH [V [OL :V\[O Pole, or through Death Valley. These may be places they never knew existed, and seeing that they are accessible to a regular person—even the parent of a schoolmate—might change their future. Trail Projects and Programs Bring your kids and their friends on a volunteer ^VYR WYVQLJ[ VY [YHPS JSLHU\W VYNHUPaLK I` H JS\I VY ZLY]PJL NYV\W PU `V\Y HYLH -YPLUKZ VM [OL 9\IPJVU -6;9 PZ H ]VS\U[LLY IHZLK VYNHUPaH[PVU [OH[ PUJS\KLZ younger people in their work to preserve access to local areas. As a FOTR ]VS\U[LLY 0 IYV\NO[ JOPSKYLU and parents into the wilds to help with trail work. 4VZ[ MV\UK [OL ^VYR IV[O M\U HUK WYVK\J[P]L ([ KH`»Z LUK ^L HSS MLS[ H ZLUZL of accomplishment, a sense of ownership of a trail or an area to which we had become stewards.

The California-based four-wheel drive club Mud, Sweat and Gears volunteers each year to take disadvantaged children on a camping trip called Kids on the Rocks.

ResouRces ;YLHK 3PNO[S`! treadlightly.org, 800-966-9900 3LH]L 5V ;YHJL! lnt.org, 800-332-4100 +:<:(! disabledsportsusa.org, 301-217-0960 )S\L9PIIVU *VHSP[PVU! sharetrails.org, 208-237-1008

(UV[OLY L_JLSSLU[ WYVNYHT PZ +PZHISLK :WVY[Z <:( +:<:( Overland Journal Editor Chris Collard has worked with them for years as a volunteer, taking disabled guests on day trips into the Sierra Nevada. Mud, Sweat, and Gears, a 4WD club, hosts an annual event called Kids on the Rocks, at which they share the great outdoors with underprivileged kids from the inner city. Empowering our youth and engaging them in fun outdoor activities with an LK\JH[PVUHS ZWPU ^PSS PUZ[PSS H JVTTVU ZLUZL L[OVZ VM JVUZLY]PUN HUK LUQV`PUN W\ISPJ SHUKZ HUK TH` OLSW V[OLYZ ZLL [OL ^VYSK KPɈLYLU[S` 3VVR MVY ZLY]PJL NYV\WZ PU `V\Y HYLH VY JVU[HJ[ ;YLHK 3PNO[S` 3LH]L 5V ;YHJL VY +:<:( 3VJHS MV\Y ^OLLS KYP]L HUK TV[VYJ`JSL JS\IZ HYL HSZV NVVK YLZV\YJLZ 0 [OPUR that involving children in programs like the ones mentioned will be highly rewarding, and you will have a great time teaching valuable skills and lessons. Overland Journal Spring 2015

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Dr. Jon S. Solberg, MD, FAWM

Burn baby, burn Field treatment for a hot topic.

uying cheap gear isn’t the only thing that can put an overlander at risk of getting burned. Precariously bal anced camp stoves, hot engine parts, and the infamous XQVXSHUYLVHG PHQ VTXLUWLQJ OLJKWHU ÁXLG RQ WKH FDPS ÀUH WULFN IHVWLYH EXW QRW UHFRPPHQGHG SURYLGH DPSOH RSSRUWXQLWLHV IRU WKH EDFNFRXQWU\ WUDYHOHU WR FRPH LQ FRQWDFW ZLWK ÀUH DQG RWKHU KRW VXUIDFHV 0RVW EXUQV ZLOO OLNHO\ EH RI PLQRU VLJQLÀFDQFH EXW D VHULRXV burn can be painful, possibly life threatening, and is sure to be distress ing to bystanders. No matter the size or scope, competent overlanders should possess the skills necessary to treat minor burns and stabilize serious ones.

Burns 101 The extent of a burn is dependent on temperature and duration of exposure. At excessive temperatures, the skin’s protein becomes cooked and loses its ability to function. Depending on the previously mentioned factors, different areas of a burn will vary in severity and depth. Often, the center of a serious burn is unsalvageable. In this case, the tissue dies instantly and loses its ability to withstand infection and conserve moisture. The circumferential tissue, the area around a burn’s center, may still be alive but at risk for death if not cooled quickly and cared for adequately. The outermost area is characterized by undamaged tissue that may still appear erythematous (red) and be very painful. Interestingly, a burn’s initial appearance does not necessarily pre dict its outcome. As of late, hospitals specializing in burn care have ODUJHO\ DEDQGRQHG WKH WUDGLWLRQDO ÀUVW VHFRQG DQG WKLUG GHJUHH JUDG LQJ V\VWHP LQ IDYRU RI D PRUH ÁH[LEOH DQG G\QDPLF FDWHJRUL]DWLRQ scheme. Nonetheless, a brief discussion on the old grading system is useful, even in the emergency department, as it assigns a starting point and guides initial resuscitation.

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)LUVW GHJUHH EXUQV LQYROYH WKH XSSHUPRVW OD\HU RI VNLQ 7KH\ DUH FKDUDFWHUL]HG E\ HU\WKHPD VNLQ UHGQHVV IURP LQFUHDVHG EORRG ÁRZ and pain, and often heal spontaneously within a week (think sunburn). 6HFRQG GHJUHH EXUQV PD\ EH VXEGLYLGHG LQWR VXSHUÀFLDO SDUWLDO WKLFN ness and deep partial thickness burns. The former extends into tissues containing glands and hair follicles. This type of burn is painful and HU\WKHPDWRXV PD\ IRUP EOLVWHUV DQG ZHHS ÁXLG DQG PD\ EODQFK EULHI O\ WXUQ ZKLWH ZKHQ SUHVVHG ZLWK D ÀQJHU Swelling beneath rings In the latter, blood vessels are often dam and necklaces can aged, which leads to less weeping and cause constriction blanching. These burns do not heal well and thus all jewelry and often result in infection and severe should be removed VFDUULQJ XQOHVV VNLQ JUDIWHG 7KLUG GHJUHH right away. EXUQV DUH IXOO WKLFNQHVV DQG DSSHDU ZKLWH RU WDQ EHFDXVH WKHUH LV QR EORRG ÁRZ WR the surface. They may also appear dry or charred, and are frequently painless because the nerve endings are damaged (like a cooked chicken EUHDVW )RXUWK GHJUHH EXUQV H[WHQG LQWR PXVFOH DQG ERQH DQG DV ZLWK WKLUG GHJUHH EXUQV XVXDOO\ UHTXLUH VNLQ JUDIWLQJ %XUQ VL]H LV MXGJHG XVLQJ WKH :DOODFH 5XOH RI 1LQHV ,Q WKLV UXOH RI thumb method, the victim’s palm is equal to 1 percent of the total burn surface area (TBSA), arms are individually worth 9 percent, each leg is worth 18 percent, and the front and back of the torso are also given a value of 18 percent. It is not uncommon, even at larger hospitals, to transfer a patient with burns larger than 20 percent TBSA to a dedi cated burn center. Burns involving the feet, genitals, joints, and face are equally tricky and are frequently transferred to specialists as well.

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When approaching the scene of a burn victim, ensure it is safe and don appropriate protective gear (gloves and face mask). All traumatized victims, no matter the type of injury, should be approached with the ABC’s (airway, breathing, circulation) in mind. Flames and superheated steam can cause rapid swelling of the lips, nasal cavity, and windpipe, which result in rapid obstruction of the airway. If you have a proper medical kit (see our 2015 Gear Guide) and there is evidence of facial burns, insert a nasopharyngeal airway into WKH YLFWLP·V QRVWULO UHJDUGOHVV RI KLV KHU FRQVFLRXVQHVV 7KLV ÀQJHU sized rubber tube provides a conduit for air to bypass an extremely VZROOHQ IDFH DQG ÁRZ LQWR WKH DLUZD\ 7KRVH ZLWK IDFLDO RU QHFN EXUQV are also at risk of swelling farther back into the airway. In this case, odd noises, squeaks, or whistles associated with breathing should prompt immediate evacuation. A victim that is unconscious and not breathing, will need rescue breaths. Place your mouth over the victim’s mouth, plug the nose, and EORZ $ ÀQJHUWLS SXOVH R[LPHWHU FDQ EH SODFHG RQWR WKH ÀQJHU WR KHOS determine how much oxygen is being delivered to the body’s tissue. I UHFRPPHQG RQH IRU DOO VHULRXV ÀUVW DLG NLWV EXW ZLOO FDXWLRQ \RX WKDW exposure to large amounts of carbon monoxide (a byproduct of com bustion) can give a falsely elevated pulse oximetry reading. Counting a victim’s respiratory rate is also helpful. Anything less WKDQ RU PRUH WKDQ EUHDWKV SHU PLQXWH VLJQLÀHV VRPHWKLQJ LV ZURQJ 6HYHUH EXUQV VXUURXQGLQJ WKH FKHVW FDQ PDNH LW GLIÀFXOW IRU WKH YLFWLP WR EUHDWKH DQG PD\ UHTXLUH D ÀHOG HVFKDURWRP\ ,Q WKLV SUR cedure a razor blade is used to slice through burned skin to allow the chest to expand adequately. It is not a pretty picture (think sausage on the grill) but it may save the person’s life. Overland Journal Spring 2015

%HFDXVH D JUHDW GHDO RI ÁXLG LV ORVW DIWHU D VHULRXV EXUQ WKH YLFWLP may need to be hydrated. If the burn is less than 20 percent TBSA, RUDO ÁXLGV DUH JHQHUDOO\ DGHTXDWH ,I PRUH WKDQ SHUFHQW 7%6$ LQWUDYHQRXV ÁXLG LV OLNHO\ QHHGHG &LUFXPIHUHQWLDO EXUQV DURXQG WKH OLPEV FDQ LPSHGH EORRG ÁRZ WR WKH KDQGV DQG IHHW DQG PD\ UHTXLUH D ÀHOG HVFKDURWRP\ RI WKH OLPE 6ZHOOLQJ EHQHDWK ULQJV DQG QHFN laces can cause constriction and thus all jewelry should be removed right away.

Local Burn Care Once the victim has been stabilized, cool the burn with room temperature water; this application has proven helpful up to 30 min utes after a burn. Save the ice water for drinking, as it can make things worse. Dead skin from ruptured burn blisters should be removed with a clean tweezers and scissors. Don’t stress about unruptured blisters; H[SHUWV GRQ·W NQRZ ZKDW WR GR ZLWK WKHP HLWKHU )LUVW GHJUHH EXUQV where the skin is still intact, can be left alone. More serious burns should be dressed with a topical antimicrobial to prevent infection. %DFLWUDFLQ PXSLURFLQ DQG VLOYHU VXOIDGLD]LQH DUH DOO JRRG ÀHOG FKRLFHV If you are a short distance from the hospital, skip the cream, as it PDNHV LQVSHFWLRQ DW WKH KRVSLWDO PRUH GLIÀFXOW DQG GRHVQ·W SURYLGH DQ\ VKRUW WHUP EHQHÀW ,I SURIHVVLRQDO PHGLFDO WUHDWPHQW LV QRW DYDLO DEOH DSSO\ FOHDQ QRQ DGKHUHQW JDX]H DQG GUHVV WKH EXUQ GDLO\ E\ removing the old gauze, washing the burn with soap and water, and applying new cream and gauze. It should be noted that some com mercial burn gel dressings adhere tightly to the wound and also make LQLWLDO LQVSHFWLRQ YHU\ GLIÀFXOW ,I WKHUH LV RQH LQ \RXU NLW EH VXUH \RX understand the instructions completely before applying it. Most burns are quite painful, and it may be a good idea to adminis ter oral pain medication right away. Acetaminophen (Tylenol 650 mg) and ibuprofen (Motrin 800 mg) are good products to carry in your kit, but more serious burns frequently require narcotics for adequate pain control. If you’re traveling far away from organized medical care (and hopefully you are), make sure someone in your group has taken a :LOGHUQHVV )LUVW 5HVSRQGHU FRXUVH DQG HQVXUH WKDW \RXU ÀUVW DLG NLW contains a nasopharyngeal airway, rolled gauze, burn cream, and oral pain medication. Obviously, the best way to treat a burn is to prevent it. I suggest not balancing the camp stove on your rig’s fender, and give hot engine parts time to cool completely before undertaking any trailside repairs. If someone in your group insists on performing fes WLYH ÀUHVLGH WULFNV WUDGH WKH ERWWOH RI OLJKWHU ÁXLG IRU D FOHYHUO\ VWDVKHG ERWWOH RI SDLQ PHGLFDWLRQ UHPHPEHU LW·V LQ \RXU ÀUVW DLG NLW :KHQ SURGXFHG DW MXVW WKH ULJKW PRPHQW \RX·UH JXDUDQWHHG WR LQÁLFW D EXUQ that will leave the crowd begging for an encore instead of the burn cream. Doctor’s orders!

ResouRces -PUK H ÄYZ[ HPK JSHZZ! redcross.org, 800-733-2767 -PUK H >PSKLYULZZ -PYZ[ 9LZWVUKLY JSHZZ! nols.edu, 800-710-6657 /V^ [V \ZL H UHZVWOHY`UNLHS HPY^H` 57( ! theemtspot. com/2009/12/08/the-art-of-the-nasopharyngeal-airway/ 57(! amazon.com 7\SZL V_PTL[LY! amazon.com 6_PTL[LY! amazon.com

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SKILLS

Christophe Noel

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Electronic Navigation From GPS units to smartphones, today’s navigational tools are sophisticated and feature rich, but which system is best for you?

IRUJHW WKH H[DFW \HDU , SXUFKDVHG P\ ÀUVW *36 XQLW but I remember well the crushing disappointment and buyer’s remorse that followed. Touted as the greatest LQQRYDWLRQ LQ EDFNFRXQWU\ WUDYHO WKDW ÀUVW GHYLFH WRRN DJHV WR DFTXLUH D VDWHOOLWH VLJQDO DQG ZKHQ LW ÀQDOO\ GLG WKH GLPO\ lit LCD display only produced a string of confusing digits and an unrecognizable squiggly line. It didn’t hold a candle to the $10 compass in my pocket. Electronic navigational options in today’s world are so varied, sophisticated, and feature rich, that it’s an overwhelming endeavor to decide which solution is best for a given application. There are, of course, dozens of GPS units available in numerous forms. Some are built into the dashboards of new vehicles; others are VPDOO HQRXJK WR ÀW RQ \RXU ZULVW 3HUKDSV WKH PRVW VLJQLÀFDQW advancement can be found in your pocket or bag: one of the near ly three billion smartphones and tablets now in use around the world. The explosive popularity of mobile computing devices has spawned hundreds of navigational applications, or apps, creating D PXOWL ELOOLRQ GROODU LQGXVWU\ WKDW LV HYROYLQJ DW DQ HYHU LQFUHDVLQJ rate. How anyone is to determine which system best suits his or her individual needs can be tricky business. Overland Journal Spring 2015

$ ORJLFDO ÀUVW VWHS ZRXOG EH WR HYDOXDWH WKH PDLQ IXQFWLRQV SUR YLGHG DQG KRZ WKH\ PLJKW EHQHÀW RYHUODQG WUDYHO 7KH PRVW REYLRXV attribute of an electronic navigational aid is its ability to pinpoint your UHDO WLPH ORFDWLRQ DQ\ZKHUH LQ WKH ZRUOG .QRZLQJ SUHFLVHO\ ZKHUH \RX are and where you’ve been greatly adds to your ability to get to your desired location…and home again. This is largely the reason why the ÀUVW *36 XQLWV ZHUH VR DE\VPDOO\ LQDGHTXDWH When distilled to their essence, modern navigational tools are de signed to offer the user two distinct functions: mapping and navigating. Mapping Mapping is little more than a recording of where you have been—a trail of digital breadcrumbs that can be followed on future travels, shared with others, or used as a backtrack route if forward progress is thwarted. This includes the use of waypoints, or spatial coordinates selected by the user to record a singular location on the planet. Navigation Navigation refers to the use of a device to follow a prede termined route, or reference a map and plot a course with the informa tion it provides. Once underway, these two elements work in tandem to help deliver you to your target destination while documenting the route LQ D GLJLWDO ÀOH 6RXQGV HDV\ HQRXJK ULJKW" In reality, it is quite easy if you’ve selected the right hardware and software. With regard to hardware, there are an increasing number of options available, some more sophisticated than others. The GPS and smartphone categories include dozens of viable platforms, and the HYHU JURZLQJ WDEOHW VHJPHQW KDV IDU PRUH FKRLFHV WKDQ ZH FRXOG OLVW here. It is also possible to use a laptop as a navigational aid.

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Hardware Considerations .HYTPU»Z A\TV 34 UV[ VUS` ^PYLSLZZS` [YHUZmits turn-by-turn instructions to a helmet communicator, it can also record tracks and display detailed topographical maps.

The Garmin Montana is, in our estimation, the most versatile GPS unit on the market.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

+DUGZDUH VHOHFWLRQ LV ÀUVW DQG IRUHPRVW LQÁXHQFHG E\ WKH JLYHQ mode of travel. Motorcycle riders would not mount a laptop to their KDQGOHEDUV DQG PRVW YHKLFOH EDVHG WUDYHOHUV SUHIHU D ODUJH HDVLO\ viewed display over the tiny screen of a handheld unit. Some may want D GHYLFH WKH\ FDQ XVH GXULQJ YHKLFOH EDVHG RXWLQJV PRWRUF\FOH WRXUV and forays on foot. Such versatility demands a degree of durability and ZHDWKHUSURRÀQJ 3RZHU VXSSO\ LV DOVR D IDFWRU 9HKLFOH EDVHG XQLWV FDQ EH SRZHUHG IURP D YROW SRZHU SRLQW ZKLOH PDQ\ KDQGKHOGV HPSOR\ replaceable or rechargeable batteries. There are less obvious considerations that play into selection as ZHOO 7KH DGYHQW RI WKH WRXFKVFUHHQ KDV VLPSOLÀHG WKH XVHU LQWHUIDFH and utility of many devices. Storage capacity and the ability to aug ment it with an additional memory card might be another deciding factor. For the motorcycle rider, being able to wirelessly pair a helmet FRPPXQLFDWRU WR D QDYLJDWLRQDO DLG SHUPLWV WKH XVH RI DXGLEOH WXUQ E\ WXUQ LQVWUXFWLRQV³D IHDWXUH , KDYH FRPH WR XVH PRUH IUHTXHQWO\ than expected. Perhaps the most critical variable is a device’s accuracy. Today, all *36 XQLWV DQG *36 FDSDEOH VPDUWSKRQHV DQG WDEOHWV ZRUN ZLWK WKH same basic satellite networks. Global Positioning System (GPS) is a net

work of 24 satellites that were put into service by the U.S. Department of Defense in the 1970s. GLONASS is the Russian equivalent and also consists of 24 satellites. Between these two networks, any device with a GPS chipset and clear signal can be used anywhere on Earth. While most are aware that GPS units rely on these two systems, much confusion abounds with regard to how tablets and smartphones function. A common misconception is that they can only acquire a po VLWLRQ WKURXJK D FHOOXODU RU :L )L VLJQDO 6PDUWSKRQHV DQG DQ LQFUHDVLQJ QXPEHU RI WDEOHWV DUH QRZ ÀWWHG ZLWK FKLSVHWV WKDW UHFHLYH *36 DQG GLONASS signals. This is a remarkable advancement considering that many dedicated GPS units only started using GLONASS in the last few years. 7KH DFFXUDF\ RI D GHYLFH LV LQÁXHQFHG E\ WZR SULPDU\ HOHPHQWV the sensitivity of the antenna and the processing performance of the GPS chipset. With an active cellular signal, a feature called Assisted *36 $ *36 DFTXLUHV DQG VWRUHV VDWHOOLWH ORFDWLRQV DQG XVHV WKDW GDWD to increase location accuracy. Some smartphones and tablets have taken WKLV D VWHS IXUWKHU :RUNLQJ ZLWK DYDLODEOH DSSV WKH\ XWLOL]H EXLOW LQ DF celerometers and digital compasses to narrow the degree of accuracy. )RU WDEOHWV QRW ÀWWHG ZLWK D FKLSVHW D QHZ FURS RI H[WHUQDO *36 UHFHLY ers can be paired, either wirelessly or via hard connections, to provide satellite connectivity.

GPS Considerations In researching this piece I made a brief attempt to count the num ber of GPS units applicable to the overland traveler. Almost imme diately overwhelmed, I stopped when I reached 50. Garmin, the seg PHQW·V PRVW SUROLÀF SXUYH\RU RIIHUV WKH 1XYL =XPR DQG 0RQWDQD Series, which seem to be the most popular in the overland circles. The 1XYL WKH EUDQG·V GHGLFDWHG WXUQ E\ WXUQ V\VWHP LV GHVLJQHG VSHFLÀ cally for vehicle use and can be used in conjunction with topographical PDSV IRU ÀQGLQJ WKH UHPRWH WZR WUDFNV RYHUODQGHUV SUHIHU 7KH =XPR particularly the 660LM and 590LM, are designed for motorcycle travel. They have a sturdy waterproof case, and their touchscreen can be op erated easily with gloved hands. The Zumo 590LM includes functions such as wireless tire pressure monitoring and a “curvy road” feature to help riders locate the best roads for two wheels. Garmin 650 EDITOR’S CHOICE FOR HARDWARE Garmin also offers units such as the Montana 650t, which has D GHÀQLWLYH ELDV WRZDUGV RII SLVWH WUDYHO 7KH FRPSDFW W IHDWXUHV preloaded topographical maps and is a favorite for those who seek the most remote and rugged trails. Though technically a handheld, it DFFHSWV YROW SRZHU DQG FDQ HDVLO\ EH PRXQWHG WR D KDQGOHEDU RU vehicle dash. This is the unit the Overland Journal crew reaches for most often, and it has served us well during countless adventures around WKH JOREH ,W KDV WKXV EHFRPH WKLV HGLWRU·V FKRLFH LQ YHKLFOH EDVHG *36 XQLWV )RU WKRVH ZDQWLQJ DQ HYHQ VPDOOHU XQLW SDUWLFXODUO\ IRU KXPDQ powered endeavors, the Garmin eTrex 30 is another popular solution.

Navigational Glossary The Global Positioning System and GLONASS, the primary satellite networks of the United States and Russia, respectively, consist of 24 satellites each. GPS Exchange Format, or GPX, is HU ?43 ZJOLTH KLZPNULK HZ H JVTmon GPS data format for softwaYL HWWSPJH[PVUZ 0[ PZ \ZLK [V KLÄUL waypoints, tracks, and routes. Routes HYL WYL KLÄULK WH[OZ JYLHted from a group of location points entered into a GPS receiver in the sequence you desire to navigate them. Tracks are similar to breadcrumb trails and allow you to see where you or another individual traveled in the past. Raster maps are digital copies of currently produced paper maps. They have the same accuracy and detail, but generally require more memory and load more slowly than other formats. Vector maps are digitally enhanced and feature multiple information layers. They can be zoomed in or out without loss of detail, load quickly, consume small amounts of memory, and are easily integrated with other mapping and navigation functions.

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Driving only by GPS

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During the Expeditions 7 crossing of Antarctica, Chris Collard and Scott Brady relied on a Garmin Montana GPS HUK /,4(»Z ,_WSVYLY HWW MVY UH]PNH[PVU The route, a GPS track that was captured using ground- penetrating radar to identify crevasses and snow bridges, was precise. During their return from the South Pole, visibility dropped to less than 10 feet—whi[LV\[ JVUKP[PVUZ PU [OLPY W\YLZ[ MVYT 0U [OL YH^ HUK Y\NNLK 8\LLU 4H\K 3HUK [OLPY WHJL ^HZ YLK\JLK [V VY RPSVTL[LYZ WLY hour. With zero visibility beyond the front bumper and all sense of the horizon lost, UH]PNH[PUN ^HZ HU PU[LUZL HɈHPY (]VPKPUN [OV\NO[Z VM WVZZPISL KHUNLYZ Q\Z[ IL`VUK [OL ^PUKZJYLLU [OL` MVJ\ZLK VU [OL inch GPS screens and a GPX breadcrumb track. Brady said, “For several hours we navigated in this fashion, which proved to be one of the most intense driving challenges our team has encountered.”

;OL )HK ,SM MVY 3PNO[UPUN .7: YLJLP]LY WS\NZ directly into any iPad or iPhone for improved satellite reception and requires no batteries or charging. The larger Bad Elf Pro can wirelessly JVUULJ[ \W [V Ä]L KL]PJLZ ]PH )S\L[VV[O

Overland Journal Spring 2015

I would be negligent not to mention devices from Delorme, Ma gellan, and Lowrance, but the reality is that Garmin simply dominates the market. This is not to say the Magellan eXplorist handheld and WKH YHKLFOH EDVHG /RZUDQFH %DMD DUH QRW VPDUWO\ GHVLJQHG DQG YHU\ functional units. Although a rather sizable piece of equipment, the Lowrance Baja is easy to operate and facilitates the use of several map systems. Most of the better units are preloaded with detailed topographical maps (or can be added at additional cost) and many offer a wide range of optional accessories for increased versatility. We have found dedi cated GPS devices to be better suited for recording tracks and marking ZD\SRLQWV DQG WKHLU RXW RI WKH ER[ HDVH RI XVH JLYHV WKHP DQ XSSHU hand over other options. Smartphones and Tablets As phones grow in size and tablets shrink, the lines between the two EHJLQ WR EOXU 2WKHU WKDQ WKH YRLFH FDOOLQJ SURSHUWLHV RI VPDUWSKRQHV there is very little differentiating the two. Smartphones are used by bil lions and almost anyone with an inclination to navigate likely has one in their pocket already. $OWKRXJK YLUWXDOO\ HYHU\ QHZ VPDUWSKRQH IHDWXUHV D EXLOW LQ *36 chipset, not all are navigationally equal. For example, those using a Windows operating system have precious few apps available. While most apps are supported by Apple and Android operating systems, some are only available for one or the other. Memory storage is another key consideration. Whereas Android phones permit the use of external 6' FDUGV L3KRQHV GR QRW +RZHYHU LW LV GLIÀFXOW WR DVVHUW RQH SODWIRUP is better than the other since consumers typically select their phones EDVHG RQ D ZLGH UDQJH RI QRQ QDYLJDWLRQDO FULWHULD With regard to tablets, much of the above carries over, with the one YDULDEOH EHLQJ WKH EXLOW LQ *36 FKLSVHW )RU H[DPSOH WKH RQO\ L3DGV with true GPS capabilities are those with a 3G, 4G, or LTE designation. Outside of the Apple orchard, companies such as Samsung, Asus, Dell, DQG 1H[XV DOVR RIIHU *36 HTXLSSHG WDEOHWV ,I \RXU WDEOHW GRHVQ·W KDYH a GPS receiver built in, read on. GPS Receivers External GPS receivers are nothing new, but they are becoming more sophisticated, user friendly, and some are even downright minis cule. Most are now wireless and can be connected to multiple devices VLPXOWDQHRXVO\ 7KH %DG (OI 3UR LV RQH RI RXU LQ KRXVH IDYRULWHV LW LV FDSDEOH RI SDLULQJ XS WR ÀYH GHYLFHV DW RQFH DQG KDV SURSULHWDU\ tracking functions. Bad Elf ’s Lightning Connector will enhance the GPS and GLONASS reception of any iPhone or iPad equipped with a lightning port. Dual and Garmin, who wouldn’t miss out on this seg ment, offer similar devices. Laptops 7KH DGYHQW RI WKH WDEOHW KDV PDGH WKH ODSWRS D RQFH SRSXODU QDYL gational tool, nearly a thing of the past. Mounting one within a vehicle

comes with some considerable drawbacks and potential dangers. The biggest challenge is their size, and I shudder to think what would hap pen if an airbag and a laptop had a chance encounter. Another down side is that they need to be paired to a GPS receiver, which pushes the cost up. On the upside, laptops have excellent memory capacity, fast processing speed, large display screens, and full keyboards for easy data entry. Aside from navigational duties, they still perform their primary function as a computer.

Software Considerations It may go without saying, but good hardware is useless without good software. For the GPS user, software selection is straightforward, as all current products come with base operating systems installed. More detailed maps can often be added if needed, and some units permit the upload of multiple map layers and satellite imagery. Many manufacturers offer their own mapping solutions, and while some are free of charge, others come at a substantial cost. It is also possible to XSORDG WKLUG SDUW\ PDSV WR PRVW GHYLFHV EXW GRLQJ VR FDQ UHTXLUH DG GLWLRQDO DSSV DQG VLJQLÀFDQW WHFKQLFDO DFXPHQ WR PDQLSXODWH WKH ÀOH structures so they can be used. When selecting GPS hardware it is necessary to consider how the GHYLFH·V VRIWZDUH IHDWXUHV IXQFWLRQ 0RVW YHKLFOH DQG PRWRUF\FOH EDVHG XQLWV JLYH WXUQ E\ WXUQ GULYLQJ LQVWUXFWLRQV DQG VRPH HYHQ DGYLVH WKH user of lane selection. While this function is handy in city driving, it is of little value in the backcountry where detailed topographical, shaded relief, and aerial maps are of greater utility. To say that the smartphone and tablet user is spoiled for software choices is a gross understatement. There are literally hundreds of map ping and navigating apps available, and for many it is hard to know which are worth having and which should be avoided. The most im portant aspect is the quality and detail of background maps. It doesn’t matter how accurate your device is if it can’t reference that information within the scope of a detailed map. The best apps permit the use of multiple map layers and offer ancillary information about points of interest and nearby amenities, as well as detailed road conditions and warnings. It is also important to know how a mapping app works with your SDUWLFXODU GHYLFH 6RPH VWRUH WKHLU HQWLUH FDWDORJ RQ ÁDVK PHPRU\ ZKLOH RWKHUV UHTXLUH WKH XVHU WR GRZQORDG LQGLYLGXDO ÀOHV IRU XVH ZKHQ QRW LQ :L )L RU FHOOXODU UDQJH )RU H[DPSOH LI \RX SODQ WR QDYLJDWH your way through Inner Mongolia with your iPhone you will need to download maps in advance. Before you begin you’ll want to consider how much memory capacity such a library will require. Other considerations include the type of navigational aids a par ticular application provides. As is the case with a GPS unit, some apps SURYLGH WXUQ E\ WXUQ LQVWUXFWLRQV LQ GHYHORSHG DUHDV ZKLOH RWKHUV DUH best suited for remote regions. Fortunately, many systems require rela tively small amounts of storage and permit one device to utilize mul tiple navigational applications. Now that we’ve inundated you with considerations, let’s look at

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HEMA Navigator HN7 /,4( 4HWZ PZ VUL VM [OL ^VYSK»Z TVZ[ L_perienced suppliers of overland navigation solutions. While their content is primarily based in Australia, they are working quickly to catalog classic routes in North America as well. Their all-in-one GPS, the HN7, has a 7-inch touchscreen and a 64-channel SiRF Atlas V processor and antenna. This high-performance unit allows for optimal accuracy, even in dense foliage, and rapid satellite acquisition when changing locations. 0[ PUJS\KLZ H [V\JO ]LYZPVU VM 6aP,_WSVYLY which allows you import raster maps of other YLNPVUZ HUK JHU IL ZWLJPÄLK ^P[O LP[OLY USA or Australia iGo base maps. The Expeditions 7 team used this device exclusively when traversing the Australian Outback and was able to upload custom maps for other continents. hemamaps.com, 617-3340-0000

Overland Journal Spring 2015

some of the available offerings. Though we are familiar with all of the products listed below, our team has used some quite extensively and on all seven continents.

;OL 4V[PVU? /+ HWW MVY P7HK HUK P7OVUL VɈLYZ excellent map detail in multiple layers, and includes a variety of advanced tracking and route sharing features.

The BackCountry Navigator app, which has superb map layers and an intuitive interface, is one of the most popular Android-based apps on the market.

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The Gaia maps are bright, detailed, and easy to read, even on a small screen.

MotionX GPS and MotionX GPS HD $1/$2 Two of the more popular applications for the overlander are the Mo tionX GPS (iPhone) and MotionX GPS HD (iPad). Both deliver up to nine individual map layers, comprehensive tracking and route manage ment, and a host of other functions ideally suited to the needs of the international traveler. Having used this application extensively from %DMD 0H[LFR WR ,FHODQG , FDQ VD\ ÀUVWKDQG WKDW LWV LQWHUIDFH LV YHU\ user friendly. It is easy to understand why so many rely on MotionX for accurate navigation. motionx.com BackCountry Navigator TOPO GPS $12 'HVLJQHG VSHFLÀFDOO\ IRU WKH $QGURLG RSHUDWLQJ V\VWHP WKH %DFN&RXQ try Navigator is another popular resource. In addition to providing detailed topographical maps, it can display marine charts, AccuTerra shaded relief maps, aerial imagery, and more. Though its expanded YHUVDWLOLW\ DQG RSWLRQV DUH FRPSHOOLQJ GXH WR WKH ODUJH ÀOH VL]H RI PDQ\ PDSV VRPH ZLOO QHHG WR EH GRZQORDGHG LQ DGYDQFH IRU XVH RIÁLQH BackCountry Navigator continually receives positive reviews, and for good reason—it may be the only navigation application an Android user will need. backcountrynavigator.com, 360-216-1017 Gaia GPS $20 7KH DZDUG ZLQQLQJ *DLD *36 DSS LV DYDLODEOH IRU ERWK $SSOH DQG $Q droid, and has earned ardent followers within each group. It too al ORZV WKH XVHU WR GRZQORDG WRSRJUDSKLFDO PDSV IRU XVH RIÁLQH DQG KDV the advanced tracking functions found on other prevalent navigational DSSV 0DGH SRSXODU E\ WKH IRXU ZKHHO GULYH GHPRJUDSKLF *DLD PDSV include extensive details on unimproved roads and trails. Compliment ing this is their new GaiaCloud, which allows users to share routes, maps, and waypoints. gaiagps.com Avenza PDF Maps Free Another application with many accolades to its credit is the Avenza PDF Map. Designed for Apple and Android devices, this system al ORZV XVHUV WR GRZQORDG WKRXVDQGV RI SURIHVVLRQDO TXDOLW\ WRSRJUDSKL FDO PDSV IRU RIÁLQH XVH ,WV QDYLJDWLRQDO IHDWXUHV DUH WKHQ UHIHUHQFHG against those maps. Although the application is free, many of the maps do come at an additional cost. A notable feature is that users can uti OL]H QRQ $YHQ]D PDSV VR ORQJ DV WKH\ DUH D 3') ÀOH W\SH avenza.com, 416-487-5116

Download maps for entire states or countries ^P[O H ZPUNSL JSPJR ^P[O .HSPSLV»Z UH]PNH[PVU HWWSPcation. This is one of our favorite map resources for international travel. Overland Journal Spring 2015

HEMA Explorer iOS and Android Application EDITOR’S CHOICE FOR SOFTWARE 7KH ([SORUHU DSS LV WKH PRVW SRZHUIXO WDEOHW EDVHG SODQQLQJ WRRO ZH have found for domestic and international travel. Most essential is its DELOLW\ WR FUHDWH RII OLQH PDSV XVLQJ ERWK +(0$ :' FRQWHQW DQG

open source map tools, which incorporates terrain, street, and satellite LPDJHV 7KH DSS DOORZV IRU HDV\ LPSRUW DQG H[SRUW RI *3; ÀOHV DQG ZKHQ FRQQHFWHG WR :L )L RU D FHOOXODU QHWZRUN FDQ GLVSOD\ D ZHDWKHU radar overlay. During the year we have been using Explorer, its func WLRQDOLW\ KDV LPSURYHG VLJQLÀFDQWO\ DV DGGLWLRQDO GDWD RYHUOD\V DQG OD\ ers have become available. Future updates are said to include USGS topo maps. hemamaps.com, 617-3340-0000 Trimble Outdoors $5 Available for Android, Blackberry, and Apple, Trimble Outdoors puts the power of 68,000 maps in the palm of your hand. It features street, shaded relief, topographical, hybrid, and aerial imagery maps, and has a background map for nearly every application. Like other systems with WKLV OHYHO RI GHWDLO PDSV DUH GRZQORDGHG LQ VPDOO VHFWLRQV IRU XVH RII line. It also has advanced tracking features that allow for the sharing of ZD\SRLQWV DQG WUDFNV *3; ÀOHV ZLWK RWKHU XVHUV )RU DGGHG IXQ \RX FDQ XVH \RXU SKRQH RU WDEOHW·V FDPHUD WR DWWDFK JHR WDJJHG LPDJHV WR precise locations. trimbleoutdoors.com .HSPSLV 6ɊPUL 4HWZ HUK 6ɊPUL 7YV Free/$4 $OWKRXJK *DOLOHR·V 2IÁLQH 0DSV DQG 2IÁLQH 3UR RIIHU PDQ\ RI WKH VDPH IHDWXUHV DV WKHLU FRQWHPSRUDULHV UHFRUG DQG VKDUH *3; WUDFN ÀOHV DQG ZD\SRLQWV WKHVH $SSOH EDVHG DSSV KDYH WZR GLVWLQFW DGYDQWDJHV In addition to being truly global, they are available in 12 languages, and XVH YHFWRU PDSV ZKLFK FRQVXPH OHVV PHPRU\ WKDQ PRVW ÀOH IRUPDWV They also boast the fastest download speeds. With one click I was able to download all of the maps for my home state of Arizona—about 12MB. galileo-app.com

DeLorme inReach Explorer >L OH]L MLH[\YLK [OL +L3VYTL PU9LHJO ,_WSVYLY PU [OL WHZ[ HUK Z[PSS ÄUK P[ [V IL one of the more important technological advancements of 2014. This two-way comT\UPJH[VY ^OPJO \[PSPaLZ [OL 0YPKP\T ZH[LSSP[L network, can be used in the most remote corners of the globe. Recently updated with basic navigational features, it can now PTWVY[ .7? ÄSLZ 3PURLK ]PH )S\L[VV[O [V any smartphone, tablet, or laptop, it can be used as an external GPS receiver. Add these attributes to its initial function as an SOS messenger, and it may be one of the most useful devices available today. inreachdelorme.com, 800-511-2459

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OziExplorer $25 for Android, Free for PC 'HVLJQHG WR ZRUN ZLWK :LQGRZV EDVHG 3&V DQG $QGURLG VXSSRUWHG mobile devices, OziExplorer has been another favorite of the over landing segment. For the laptop navigator, it permits the use of dozens of maps of varying detail that cover the bulk of the globe. Its digital tools allow you to plan routes and export them to Garmin, Magellan, and Lowrance devices. oziexplorer.com As mentioned, we’ve reviewed but a few of the popular applica tions now in use by overlanders, and new systems are released almost weekly. Whether you opt for a dedicated GPS, a tablet, or simply need PRUH IURP \RXU PXOWL WDVNLQJ VPDUWSKRQH WKHUH LV OLWWOH GRXEW WKDW today’s navigational resources are vastly superior to what was available just a few years ago. Magellan himself would never have fathomed how easy navigation could become. I can’t imagine how anyone still man ages to get lost…unless they want to.

Overland Journal Spring 2015

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Andre Racine

Savory Southwest Burgers Our “adventure accountant” shares his magical chorizo, cheese, and bacon burgers.

Savory Southwest Burgers

Photo by Chris Collard

Serves: c Prep time: TPU\[LZ c Cook time: TPU\[LZ Equipment: 3HYNL ZRPSSL[ ZWH[\SH TP_PUN IV^S

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As Overland Journal’s accountant, my forte is numbers. It’s not a posi tion that allows for much creativity unless you would like to do some jail time. However, I have found that my artistic side does reveal itself in the kitchen—coming up with new seasoning blends for meat, pota toes, and so on. After trying this variation of the traditional hamburger at home, I knew I had a hit on my hands and decided to share with the WHDP /LNH PDQ\ SHRSOH RQH RI P\ ÀUVW MREV DV D WHHQDJHU ZDV ÁLSSLQJ burgers at a fast food establishment. While those days are far behind me, I still enjoy making hamburgers, except now I get to add my own ÁDLU WR WKHP 7KHUH LV QRWKLQJ EHWWHU WR ÀQLVK RII D GD\ RI FDPSLQJ RXW LQ WKH EDFNFRXQWU\ RU LQ \RXU RIÀFH WKDQ D KHDUW\ PHDO 7KHVH GHOL cious burgers do the job.

SI NYV\UK ILLM SI WVYR JOVYPaV WYLMLYHIS` UV[ PU H [\IL ñ J\W ÄULS` JOVWWLK ^OP[L VUPVUZ ë J\W ÄULS` JOVWWLK JPSHU[YV 2 lb bacon Cheese slices Hamburger buns Ketchup, mustard, and mayonnaise 3L[[\JL

Combine the ground beef, chorizo, onions, and cilantro and mix thoroughly. Let the mixture marinate for 24 hours to let WKH ÁDYRUV WKRURXJKO\ PLQJOH ZLWK WKH JURXQG EHHI ,I \RX can prepare it prior to departure, freeze for a meal later in the trip. When you are ready for your burger feast, fry the bacon and set aside to drain. Form the burger mixture into SRXQG SDWWLHV RU ODUJHU LI \RX SUHIHU 3DWWLHV DQ\ VPDOOHU than this shrink quite a bit and are usually too small for stan dard hamburger buns. I recommend panfrying the patties, as the addition of chorizo makes the meat a little crumbly and they may fall apart if grilled. If you choose to grill, do so with caution— a second spatula may be needed to keep the burger together. When the burgers are near the desired wellness, lay er cheese and bacon on top and allow time for the cheese to melt. Serve on buns with your favorite toppings.

Starter ~ Chips and salsa Main course ~ Scrumptious Southwest chorizo

EXUJHU ZLWK DOO WKH À[LQJV DQG PRUH FKLSV DQG VDOVD Beverage ~ An adult bubbly beverage with lime… maybe two

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Fortunately, some enterprising souls had forged a new route a half hour or so before we arrived: Tyre tracks skidded from the road, down WKH HPEDQNPHQW DQG RQWR WKH ULYHUEHG $V VRRQ DV WKH\·G KLW WKH ÁDWV however, each driver had sought out his own preferred route and the mud was consequently crisscrossed with tangles of lines, none obvi ously better than the others. ,W PD\ VHHP OLNH ZH·UH VWDWLQJ WKH REYLRXV EXW DQ ,VX]X IRXU ZKHHO drive is substantially heavier than an old, tinny Lada, and there is a certain knack to driving on slick mud. We cautiously tipped the bonnet off the road, Piles of rock, some careered down the bank, and skidded out 20 feet high and DFURVV WKH ÁDWV 0RVW GULYHUV KDG KHDGHG stretching on as far straight towards the centre of the river, and as the eye could VR ZH IROORZHG VXLW )RU WKH ÀUVW IHZ PLQ see, had cascaded utes all was well, but our luck sadly didn’t down the hillside hold. overnight and buried The river gods were watching, waiting the usual route. for us to reach the middle of the riverbed so they could fall about with laughter as they let us sink deep into the mud. The previous cars had already churned the surface and the Isuzu slithered to a halt. Every touch of a foot on the accelerator ground us deeper and deeper into the thick, sticky clay until the car was buried up to its axles. We tried to go forward, we tried to go back. We weren’t going anywhere at all. To add insult to injury, the rain poured down, and then sideways, as if that were any better. Having a spade in the trunk takes up space, but we carry a short one for just such occasions. We tried to dig our way out, clearing away some of the mud and heaping up small stones and sticks around the tyres to give them as much grip as possible. If anything, the car seemed to be sinking deeper, to the point that the mud reached up to the ve hicle’s underbelly. Having scarcely seen another motorist all morning, help came just in the nick of time. Down from the road came an unexpectedly clean &KLQHVH IRXU ZKHHO GULYH ZLWK D GULYHU DQG VLQJOH SDVVHQJHU IROORZHG on by six Tajik army privates jogging along in military fatigues and ZHOO ZRUQ MDFNERRWV 1RW VXUSULVLQJO\ WKH VROGLHUV ZHUH OHVV FOHDQ WKDQ the vehicle. ,Q WKH FDU ZDV DQ DUP\ RIÀFHU ZKR ZDV UXGHO\ DZDNHQHG IURP KLV PLG PRUQLQJ VOXPEHU E\ D KDLU\ DQG EHDUGHG (QJOLVKPDQ YLUWXDOO\ throwing himself across the bonnet, in the manner of a moose late at night on an Alaskan back road. Thankfully, doing an emergency stop is pretty straightforward when you’re crawling along at only half a mile an hour. Whether it was the interference with his naptime, interruption of WKH MRXUQH\ RU WKH VPHOO RI WKH RIIHQGLQJ YLVLWRU WKH RIÀFHU ORRNHG decidedly nonplussed. His driver wasn’t particularly entertained either, though we’ll put that down to shock. We didn’t share a word in com mon, but a wild round of charades was surprisingly effective. As the alternative option was to have the human equivalent of a wet dog that’s UROOHG LQ SRR GULSSLQJ DOO RYHU WKH SDVVHQJHU VHDW WKH RIÀFHU DJUHHG to help. He barked instructions out through the window, keeping his uniform dry and his polished boots unmarked; the privates set to on his behalf. We grew up with the story The Enormous Turnip, in which the same refrain is heard time and again: …they pulled and they pulled and they pulled, Overland Journal Spring 2015

but they could not pull it out. Having completely forgotten the rather re petitive tale, it sprung from somewhere well hidden in the back of P\ PHQWDO ÀOLQJ FDELQHW WR WKH IURQW RI P\ PLQG :H DOO GXJ DZD\ at the mud and pushed at the car, forwards and then back, and nar rowly avoided a nasty accident when the metal tow cable snapped vio OHQWO\ RQH HQG VPDVKLQJ LQWR WKH RIÀFHU·V FDU DQG OHDYLQJ D QDVW\ GHQW Thankfully no one was in the way. At last, and for no obvious reason other than the joke was wearing thin and the gods had turned their mischief elsewhere, the car began to give. The wheels stopped spinning and started to grip the tiniest bit. :LWK HYHU\ RXQFH RI VWUHQJWK IURP D KDOI GR]HQ PHQ DQG DQ HTXDOO\ soggy woman, we forced the car forwards just enough that the tyres gained traction, catching the edges of the squishy ruts and then lurch ing on with a jolt. It was so sudden that more than one of the soldiers IHOO ÁDW LQ WKH PXG UDWKHU VXUSULVHG EXW IRUWXQDWHO\ JULQQLQJ :H SRVHG IRU SKRWRV ZDYHG RXU UHVFXHUV RQ WKHLU ZD\ DQG WKH RIÀFHU DQG KLV entourage sped off along the river…almost out of sight. The car reached the top of the hill and stopped suddenly, invol untarily, and with one hell of a bang. We caught up with them a few PLQXWHV ODWHU WKH RIÀFHU QRZ HYHQ PRUH UHG IDFHG WKDQ EHIRUH +LV IRXU ZKHHO GULYH D superior military vehicle, had hit a rock and blown a tyre. To add insult to injury, although he had all manner of tools and plenty of men to use them, he didn’t have a jack. We had our chance to return a favour.

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TAIL LAMP

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Pamir Highway Mudslides, military patrols, and a wild round of charades on the Roof of the World.

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he Pamir Highway can be one of the world’s greatest drives. Perched on the Roof of the World, almost kiss ing the ancient sky god Tengri, you wind your way for mile after mile across Tajikistan, breathtaking vistas of the Great Pamir unveiling around every bend. The stretches of 7XUNLVK ODLG WDUPDF DUH VPRRWK DQG WKH WRUUHQWV RI WKH $PX 'DU\D (the Oxus River of antiquity) run alongside the road, a constant and majestic driving companion. Of course, the reality of the drive is not always so dreamy. Millions of years of seismic activity have made the mountains the way they are, and the earth continues to shift. The mountain slopes are in almost FRQVWDQW ÁX[ HVSHFLDOO\ LQ WKH VSULQJ ZKHQ WKH VQRZ DQG JODFLHUV DUH melting and the rivers and streams are swollen. Rocky outcroppings are there one day and gone the next, and the same can be said for chunks of road. Tajikistan’s road crews certainly earn their keep. :H ÀUVW GURYH WKH 3DPLU LQ RXU ,VX]X 7URRSHU LQ 0D\ 7KRXJK not terribly old, at least by our standards, the vehicle was a little shaken; it had already completed the drive to Central Asia from London. From Dushanbe, the Tajik capital, there are two routes south to Darvaza, gateway to the Pamir. One route is a reasonable road with an asphalt top, and the other is little more than a squiggle across remote stretches of the map, its surface broken scree. The decision as to which route to WDNH VKRXOG KDYH EHHQ D QR EUDLQHU EXW LW ZDV WDNHQ RXW RI RXU KDQGV A key bridge on the good road had been washed away by a landslide a few weeks before and there was no sign of it being repaired anytime Overland Journal Spring 2015

soon. Like it or not, we had to take our chances on the boneshaker. The further south we drove, the darker the sky became. The few clouds hovering on the horizon like whips of cotton candy thickened and turned an ominous, inky black. Then the rain came. Tajikistan doesn’t have a monsoon, so they say, but you could certainly have fooled me. The water cascaded from the heavens, and the dusty fog WKDW KDG KRYHUHG DERYH WKH URDG ZKHQ ZH ÀUVW VHW RXW WKDW PRUQLQJ ZDV TXLFNO\ WXUQLQJ LQWR VWLFN\ NQHH GHHS PXG We broke the journey in an NGO guesthouse, a corrugated tin af fair by the side of the road where we slept cheek by jowl with a motley assortment of other guests, snoring and tossing about beneath itchy and decidedly grubby blankets. In the yard outside were parked a troika of elderly, though still very much in use, bulldozers and diggers, all caked in mud to waist height. This should have proved a warning of what was to come. It is always worth starting out early when you don’t know what the day’s journey will bring. A little after dawn, refreshed with bowls of Chinese black tea, we revved up the engine and headed back onto the road. We didn’t get very far. At the edge of the village, the road came to an abrupt halt. Piles of rock, some 20 feet high and stretching on as far as the eye could see, had cascaded down the hillside overnight and buried the usual route. There’s only one road here at the best of times, so there was little option for a diversion. This wasn’t a case of waiting for the bulldozer to come and do its work—we’d have been sitting there for weeks and weeks. *VU[PU\LK VU WHNL

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adventure