Overland Journal :: Gear 2025

VERLAND O

ROMANIA | TIE-DOWN STRAPS | ALGERIA | MOTO HELMETS

Featuresand Departments

chain. Photo by Scott Brady

OVERLAND JOURNAL

WE ARE ADVENTURERS Constantly traveling. Testing and using gear in real-world situations. Gaining experience, which we readily share.

OUR RESUME

7 continents | 158 countries | 594 years combined experience

EXPERIENCE MATTERS

WE ONLY KNOW THINGS WHEN WE LIVE THEM

GEAR 2025

PUBLISHER AND CHAIRMAN Scott Brady

DIRECTOR OF DESIGN Stephanie Brady

EDITOR IN CHIEF Tena Overacker

CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER Christian Pelletier

CHIEF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT OFFICER Brian McVickers

SENIOR EDITOR Ashley Giordano

4WD SENIOR EDITOR Graeme Bell

MEDICAL EDITOR Dr. Jon Solberg, MD, FAWM

ARCHAEOLOGY SENIOR EDITOR Bryon Bass, PhD

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Stephan Edwards

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS René Bauer, Luisa Bell, Greg Fitzgerald, Sean Gorman, Kira and Brendon Hak, Andrea Kaucká, Matt Lynch, Lisa Morris, Winston Ross, Sinuhe Xavier

SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Bruce Dorn

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Chris Collard, Richard Giordano, Lila Shaw

CARTOGRAPHER David Medeiros

ILLUSTRATOR Michele Dallorso

PODCAST HOST Matthew Scott

CINEMATOGRAPHER Paula Burr

CONTACT

Overland Journal, 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301 service@overlandjournal.com, editor@overlandjournal.com, advertising@overlandjournal.com, 928-777-8567

MOVING?

Send address changes to service@overlandjournal.com. Include complete old address as well as new address. Allow two to four weeks for the change to become effective. Overland Journal is not forwarded by the US Postal Service. It is the subscriber’s responsibility to inform Overland Journal of an address change.

Overland Journal is a trademark of Overland International, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Overland Journal is a wholly owned subsidiary of Overland International.

NO COMPROMISE

We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are independent and impartial. We never have and never will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising to influence our product or destination reviews.

DIGITAL WORLD

I have been getting the print version of Overland Journal for 10 years (at least). It is a great magazine that is incredibly informative—tests, journeys, sights, great photography, etc. But I also wanted the digital version for easy reading on my iPad when traveling. I was very surprised and unhappy to have the Zinio digital subscription canceled. Digital issues are far more accessible, [and] Zinio was a great way to get [them]. How [do I] get the digital version? It is not clear from the website.

Garth Illingworth

RESPONSE FROM PUBLISHER Unfortunately, Zinio continued to increase our fees until it was a significant financial loss on the digital subscriptions. As a result, we are working to upload all of

our back issues to the overlandjournal.com website and make them available for free for current print subscribers. The last few years are already complete, and they can be accessed as follows:

1. Log into the store at overlandjournal.com;

2. Select “The Journal” drop-down menu from the top;

3. Select “Digital Archive”;

4. Click on a cover image. It should open on any device with the option to enter full screen.

You do not need to be a print subscriber to access the current digital issue for free.

PRESERVATION STATION

The Overland Journal back issues I ordered came with plastic protectors. Can you direct me to where you ordered them from? Ap-

ROW 1

@alwayslossst

I like my sugar with coffee and cream. And sand, apparently. @wewillroam

Memories of the absolute silence in the Australian Outback. There’s nothing else quite like it.

@wiebkelueh

After four days on the bike, 160 kilometers off the main roads, dozens of deep mud holes, and steep climbs through tiny villages, @sun_is_cycling and I are in the middle of the Liberian jungle. About 300 kilometers until we reach the Côte d’Ivoire border. Photo credit: Wiebke Lühmann and Julien

ROW 2

@family.overland.adventure

The adventure never ends with this amazing guy [who] drives us to new places 99 percent of the time unless he is droning.

Photo credit: Christine DeHaven Photography

@globaltraces

We made it to the Tropic of Cancer, and Isla spotted our friend’s @expeditionrove sticker Next time we cross that Tropic, we’ll hopefully be coming up from the south, but that’s a few years away yet, and there’s so many other places to explore.

@cox116

The setting sun.

ROW 3

@danvanstralen

Riding to the last minute, enjoying every moment before the end of another great day. I am so thankful to have days like this and to be able to experience new places.

@fluriadventures

It’s not every day you meet someone in person and instantly click, but that’s exactly what happened with @slowroamers We started chatting a few months ago and finally met. It’s a match made in travel heaven.

@iberica_overland

You can’t get any higher than when you are published in the prestigious magazine @overlandjournal [Winter 2023].

Written by @ivatasicpedrero, this article tells the story of monuments scattered throughout Yugoslavia commemorating WWII battles. [translated from Spanish]

preciate your continuing efforts of informative writing.

Hugo V. Schmidt, D.D.S.

RESPONSE FROM PUBLISHER They are a standard Mylar sleeve, 9.5 x 12.5 inches, 2 mil, with a 1-inch flap, and are available from several reputable online sellers.

SHARE

Use #overlandjournal on Instagram or Facebook.

WHERE HAS YOUR OVERLAND JOURNAL BEEN?

Send us a photo, along with your name, the location, make/year of your vehicle, and a brief description. editor@overlandjournal.com

Soleil

RENÉ BAUER ANDREA KAUCKÁ

Andrea and I met in New Zealand, where we have lived for some time. One thing we never wanted was an ordinary 9 to 5 job since the dreaded eat, sleep, work, repeat routine is something we have spent our lives avoiding at all costs. We are travelers, photographers, and adventurers and publish articles in the Czech Republic, Germany, and beyond. Connected by our drive to explore new places and off-road adventure, we enjoy experiencing other cultures, observing wildlife, and partaking in good food. Traveling is our first love, cultivated through our respective sports and work. Since 2008, we have enthusiastically explored Africa and have since found ourselves positively smitten with the continent. @enjoyafricatravel.com

GREG FITZGERALD

Greg Fitzgerald is a New Jersey-based writer, photographer, and explorer. He is a lifelong Land Rover enthusiast, and although he’ll explore the backcountry in any vehicle, he’s happiest behind the wheel of something with the green oval on it—preferably his LR3 or Discovery 1. He has extensive overland experience across North America and enjoys combining vehicle-based travel with industrial archaeology and landscape photography. His favorite places to combine all three are in the landscapes of Death Valley and British Columbia. When he’s not on the trail, he can probably be found somewhere on the coast on his quest to photograph every lighthouse in North America. @haveroverwilltravel

KIRA AND BRENDON HAK

Brendon has been behind the wheel his entire life, his first solo expedition being at just six years old. No matter the season, you can find him outside, twisting a throttle or stomping a pedal. Kira’s passion has always been travel and photography. For her, capturing an image to share with the “inside” world has the power to change mindsets. Kira is certain she will travel to every corner of this beautiful planet and spark an interest in others to do the same. So the wanderer met the horse, and Adventure Haks was born—a platform to share their photography and tales of their journeys, with the goal to simply enjoy life and inspire others to get outside and explore. @adventurehaks

The man who’s been there, done that. He’s seen the inside of a jail in Colombia, and doesn’t brag about knowing how to handle firearms because they’re not his identity. There’s no overcompensation. Raced the Mexican 1000, then immediately drove from Panama to Guatemala in a 50-year-old Land Rover. He knows the underground fight clubs in London. Will navigate through the souk in Marrakech as if he was raised there. Can throw on a blazer and hang with the upper crusts at The Explorers Club, then take off his jacket and help a driver change a tire outside the front door. He is as comfortable sleeping in a snow cave as in an Aman. Automotive companies hire him to convey a premium interaction with the brand. He is the “man of unimpeachable experience.” @sinuhexavier

SEAN GORMAN

Raised in the mountains of Colorado, Sean Gorman was born to explore. After climbing the highest peaks in the US, he set his sights on guiding some of the world’s highest mountains. Sean’s first car, a 1961 Land Rover Series IIA that he still owns, became a tool that enabled him to develop his love for off-road exploration. He started his own business, combining the guiding skills from multi-month mountain expeditions and his zeal for off-pavement, vehicle-based travel. Sean now consults on vehicle development and designs driving programs for automotive manufacturers. If you can’t find him in some remote corner of the world, you might find him piloting his vintage airplanes around the sky. @sea2sum

Samuel cut his teeth in photography early in his career, building mobile photography technology and running Facebook’s photo product. He began his overlanding career shortly after, traveling through the American West in a 1995 NAS Defender 90 and living in an Airstream trailer. This lifestyle of simplicity, creativity, and exploration quickly became a source of community and meaning. More recently, Samuel enjoys traveling with his wife and two young children across Western North America. His favorite recent memory was a three-month journey through the Mojave Desert and 15 national parks with his six-month-old son. In addition to overlanding, Samuel also enjoys exploring the waters of the Puget Sound.

SINUHE XAVIER

SAMUEL ODIO

WINSTON ROSS

Over two decades, Winston Ross worked his way from cub reporter at a newspaper in the Inland Northwest to senior writer at Newsweek magazine. He has won multiple national and regional awards for his work on investigative and long-form narrative projects. In 2020, Winston bought a Ram ProMaster and tracked down a California couple who’d amassed a mighty Instagram following of life in their own van, and talked them into traveling north to live in his home (and Airbnb) to do a build. When the van isn’t rented as a part of GoCamp’s fleet, he coaxes it to favorite whitewater rafting and mountain biking destinations across the American West. winstonross.wordpress.com

British-born adventurers Lisa Morris and Jason Spafford, known as Four Wheeled Nomad, traded scuba fins for motorcycle boots after a decade as instructor guides. Their epic 80,000mile ride from Antarctica to the Arctic spanned nearly five years. Jason’s 30-year acclaim as a photographer and filmmaker complements Lisa’s narrative weaving since 2000. In 2018, they overlanded the UK and Europe in their trusty Toyota Hilux, White Rhino, for five years. Now, astride their KTM 500 EXC-Fs full-time, they’re predominantly off-road in the North American wilderness, capturing their thrilling escapades on YouTube. Their mantra remains: “If you’re excited by your current path, you’re on the right one.” @fourwheelednomad

Matt is an adventure travel writer and author. He is currently working on his debut novel about driving the longest road in the world, the Pan-American Highway. On this expedition, Matt traveled 50,000 kilometers from the Canadian Arctic to the southern tip of South America. Through 15 countries, he experienced robberies, corrupt officials, armed cartel members, ice roads, frostbite, scorpion stings, hospital visits, van towings, civilian mobs, high-elevation highways, boat crossings, vehicle crashes, landslides, floods, and enough stories to last a lifetime. Matt is currently back home in the UK, writing, hiking, and planning speaking tours about his adventures. @mattwalkwild

LUISA BELL

Luisa Bell has always had a passion for travel, but she never imagined that she would travel the world with her family in a self-built Land Rover Defender camper. As the navigator, administrator, and penetrator of bureaucracy, she has led her family to over 65 countries on five continents. Luisa is the wife of Graeme, and their quarter-century together feels like a full century in overlander years. Her two kids and her dog are her pride and joy, and if she could travel with them indefinitely, she would. With a background in immigration law, she has the ability to make the impossible possible and has no plan of settling down or retiring her full-time traveler status. a2aexpedition.com

MATT LYNCH

LISA MORRIS JASON SPAFFORD

OVERLAND

Overland Journal is the original publication for environmentally responsible, worldwide vehicle-supported expedition and adventure travel.

SUBSCRIPTIONS AND BACK ISSUES

5 issues/year, online at overlandjournal.com or 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301

DOMESTIC & CANADA (USD)

1 year $65

INTERNATIONAL (USD)

1 year $95

DIGITAL

Available on iTunes, Google Play, and the Libby Library app.

2025 Ineos Quartermaster, Phase One

Installing racks, a rooftop tent, and other essentials.

After25,000 kilometers, we rolled up to the Gulf of Aden. Yemen was just over the horizon, and the region was as close to all-out war as it had been in a generation. I had driven from Cape Town to Djibouti, crossing the continent of Africa and testing the limits of the Grenadier wagon in the process. When the tires touched the shoreline of the Indian Ocean, we had not experienced a single mechanical failure, and there were no error lights on the dash. Nothing had gone wrong despite the vehicle being an early production unit and the endless African corrugations trying to tear it apart—a pinnacle vehicle, indeed.

A few months later, I am now driving the new Quartermaster Trialmaster, but in left-hand drive and on the North American continent. We were fortunate to have been given access to another long-term test unit and even to modify it if desired. The Quartermaster was a configuration I am particularly fond of, as I have always preferred wagons for international travel and trucks for North American use. I have also

grown fond of small lightweight campers for remote work and comfort. Trucks work in the USA. However, because this is “truck country,” Ineos has its work cut out to produce a competitive model. Fortunately, they stayed true to their Built on Purpose ethos and forged their own path.

For phase one (of three) of the Quartermaster build series, we review the vehicle in stock form and give insights into its stock performance and suitability for overland travel, implementing minor modifications to improve storage and camping comfort. The project vehicle has a Trialmaster package with several important options, such as the factory winch, steel wheels, BFGoodrich ATs, a dual-battery system, raised air intake, front and rear lockers, and more. This unit also included the factory bed bar (less important) and safari windows (more important). I love the safari windows, which allow for great ventilation, particularly when parked in the heat; in Africa, we removed them on the wagon for game drives throughout Tanzania and Kenya.

The Quartermaster is unique in a few ways, starting with the size. It is closer in dimension to the first-generation Tundra, which makes it roomy for front-seat occupants but still manageable for most trails. The wheelbase is 127 inches, 4 inches shorter than a Tacoma and 10 inches less than a Gladiator. The shorter wheelbase helps improve breakover angle compared to its peers; it’s four degrees better than a Gladiator, but the Jeep beats it on approach, departure, and turning circle. Given the effective dimensions, front and rear lockers, and long-travel solid-axle suspension, the capability is on par with the best in the segment.

The Quartermaster shows its overlanding roots in capacity, where some configurations can reach 1,889 pounds of payload and a 7,716-pound tow rating. Even the Trialmaster we are testing has a 1,400-pound payload, and it is factory-loaded with a bed rack,

For the first phase, the Front Runner racks added essential capacity and camping comfort. | Opposite, clockwise from top left: Often described as a cockpit, the Quartermaster cab is a comfortable and efficient place to spend time. The simplicity and lack of pomp is refreshing. | The 4WD controls are concentrated (less the mechanical transfer-case shifter) to the overhead panel, including rear and front locker activation, wading mode, and off-road mode. | The bed is more spacious than most mid-size trucks, but some of that advantage is allocated to the spare tire location. | Articulation is excellent, and the larger BFGoodrich All-terrains tuck nicely into the wheel wells without rubbing. | The rear seats are bulky, but removing any of the sections is quite easy. The starting and auxiliary batteries both reside under the seat bottoms. | The cable-operated transfer case selector is a rare joy in modern vehicles, but the BMW shifter feels incongruent and needs a sport/trailer towing mode.

a dual battery system, and the 12,000-pound winch. That is still enough payload to install a modest camper and bull bar.

The BMW B58 straight-six engine is a good fit for the vehicle, and the 331 poundfeet of torque is well-matched to the ZF 8-speed transmission. Prescott, Arizona, where I live, sits at over 5,200 feet, and the turbo configuration does an admirable job of maintaining performance at elevation. This motor has been around for nearly a decade, winning the Ward’s 10 Best Engines award four times (2016, 2017, 2019, 2020). Any of my reliability concerns were quelled once I read that Toyota uses the same motor in their Supra. It is also detuned for durability and longevity (and even lower octane in a pinch) compared with other applications (like the BMW CSL), where the B58 produces an unimaginable 560 horsepower. After crossing Africa and not experiencing any motor issues (even on as low as 85 octane in Ethiopia), I feel comfortable with the reliability prospects.

RESOURCES

Ineos ineosgrenadier.com

Front Runner frontrunneroutfitters.com

C6 Outdoor c6outdoor.com

MaxTrax maxtraxus.com

BFGoodrich bfgoodrichtires.com

Engel engelcoolers.com

On the road, the Quartermaster is even more comfortable and quiet than the wagon, and the truck benefits from a smaller cabin and longer wheelbase. It is easy to drive, but the robust chassis and solid axles make themselves known, with the benefits of both becoming more apparent on dirt roads or after decades of hard use. The high payload and long wheelbase increase the frame beaming effect over the wagon configuration (given the body interruption between the cab and bed). Expect it to drive like the HD truck it is and not a car, and it won’t disappoint. Like the wagon, the steering lacks on-center feel and is slow to return to center. The turning radius is nearly 7 feet wider than a Tacoma and even wider than the Gladiator, despite the Jeep having a longer wheelbase. Upon close inspection, the turning radius could certainly be shorter, but the steering stops seem to be set more for axle preservation due to the front locker (this is a common engineering solution). The suspension dynamics, steering feel, and ride quality are all familiar, reminiscent of my decade-plus owning a G-Wagon and multiple circumnavigations of the planet with 70-Series Land Cruisers. Do you want massaging seats, or do you want to drive across the Empty Quarter?

On dirt trails and roads, the Quartermaster comes into its own, boasting standard front and rear steel bumpers (try and find that elsewhere), bash plates, and a fuel tank skid. The Trialmaster we are using levels up with the winch, raised air intake, triple locking differentials, steel 17-inch wheels, and 32-inch diameter BFGoodrich AT KO2s. Another surprise is the cableoperated transfer case lever with a 2.5:1 low range. When combined with the 5.2:1 first gear, low-speed control on the trail is excellent, made even better with left-foot braking. In the sand, the best option is to lock the center differential and select offroad mode on the overhead console. This configuration opens up the VSC limits and keeps the throttle from being cut during more spirited dirt driving or in the dunes. In slower speed conditions, off-road mode makes traction control even more effective, limiting wheelspin. The rear and front lockers can be engaged in the most technical scenarios and climbs.

Step one for modifications was to search for available racks, and I found that Front Runner had developed a cab and bed rack for the truck. Fortunately, they were already in the USA and tested extensively in Africa. As the Trialmaster model was equipped with a bed bar, it took some engineering to accommodate the bed rack, but a set of heavy-duty round bar brackets clamped nicely and supported the basket

AS A TRAVELER WHO PREFERS THE REMOTE AND RUGGED CORNERS OF THE GLOBE, THE QUARTERMASTER FEELS LIKE MANNA FROM HEAVEN, AND I CAN SCARCELY THINK OF ANOTHER VEHICLE I WOULD RATHER BUILD AS A PROJECT VEHICLE.

at the correct height. These accessories also allowed the installation of 40 liters of fuel in NATO cans and a Front Runner storage box with recovery gear. With those accessories mounted to one side, there was a perfect spot to install the C6 Outdoor Rev Tent.

The Rev rooftop tent is unconventional, yet it is one of my favorite sleeping solutions for several reasons, including its easy removal, compact dimensions, 4-inch thick mattress, and impossibly low weight. The Rev can be removed from the rack and used on the ground or stored in the garage when not needed, and it only weighs 25 pounds, even with the thick mattress. The platform easily attaches to the Front Runner rack and only weighs 50 pounds, including the ladder. With the Quartermaster being a pickup, I wanted to retain as much flexibility as possible, so a quick detachable tent was a win.

On top of the cab, I installed a 2-meter Front Runner Slimline II Rack that allowed the safari windows to be opened for ventilation. This Slimline II was chosen for reserve capacity or to allow the bed to be used for a motorcycle and the rooftop tent to be installed over the cab. I mounted a set of MaxTrax Xtremes to allow easy access on the trail. What impressed me most about the Front Runner rack was its light weight (66 pounds) and quiet operation. The wind fairing eliminated any whistles and most of the wind noise.

The final modifications for phase one included installing a factory bull bar for animal strike protection, a slightly larger BFG tire, and an Engel 35-liter fridge in the back seat area. While the factory bull bar is not currently available in the USA (it will be soon), I secured a test unit for evaluation. The factory bumper is a quality steel unit that integrates the 12,000-pound Red Winch, so I preferred using the optional guard as it mounts to factory holes and aligns perfectly with the body panels.

It is a stout unit that looks appropriate on the vehicle and will easily survive an impact from tree branches and most animals. The last step was to mount a set of 295/70R17 BFGoodrich AT tires, which measure 33.3 inches in diameter and 11.8 inches wide, fitting perfectly with no lift and no noticeable impact on drivability.

The Quartermaster is an ideal and unique overland truck platform, and the aftermarket accessory manufacturers will be quick to provide further enhancements. My wish list is short, but I would like to see a larger factory main fuel tank option. The US government’s chicken tax is also unfortunate, adding an unnecessary 25 percent hit to the MSRP. As a traveler who prefers the remote and rugged corners of the globe, the Quartermaster feels like manna from heaven, and I can scarcely think of another vehicle I would rather build as a project vehicle. Because it fits overlanding, Overland

Journal, and my needs, we have decided to make the Quartermaster our project truck of the year. Few of us could have imagined that a vehicle like the Quartermaster would ever be made in 2024, let alone be available to purchase in the USA. It feels good to soak up the new golden age of overlanding.

EDITOR’S NOTE We received no financial compensation from Ineos for this project build or the Africa crossing. Both vehicles are long-term editorial test units.

Mystery Ranch Storage Solutions

Pack smarter with these four organization champions.

Asoverlanders, we aim to travel light, avoiding excess gear that can be cumbersome, especially as a family of four where space is always an issue. We appreciate well-designed storage solutions and carriers for when we’re out and about, and Mystery Ranch consistently delivers.

The company was co-founded by Dana Gleason and Renée Sippel-Baker in 2000 and was acquired by Yeti in January 2024. Dana and Renée’s extensive experience working with the US Special Forces, firefighters, and the outdoor industry is reflected in the exceptional design and quality of their packs. Their refusal to cut corners is evident in every piece of gear we’ve tried and tested.

This 50-liter, mid-sized High Water duffel has been riding on the roof rack of our Land Rover Defender for over six months, and it still looks as good as new. The duffel is designed to combat sun damage with its 840-denier ballistic nylon with double-sided TPU coating. After our encounter with a mini tornado in Tucson, we discovered that it’s not just waterproof but stormproof. There is ample interior space for your gear, and the duffel can be minimized by using the two interior compression straps and pushing down to expel any remaining air. The Tru Zip is fully waterproof, submersible, and dustproof and has no teeth, allowing it to seal the duffel completely. While it might be difficult to close at first, applying some zipper wax will help it glide more easily and extend its life. Two exterior pouches are available for smaller items, and the duffel can be carried as a backpack or a sling.

CATALYST 26 | $179

The Catalyst 26 is made with durable 500-denier recycled Cordura re/cor nylon, and its 26-liter capacity makes it adequate for two people, reducing the chance of misplacing items if all your valuables are kept in one place when sightseeing, on an excursion, or overnighting. The Catalyst features three separate zippered storage areas, and the raised, rear-padded zippered section with a separator is ideal for a laptop, tablet, or essential documents. There’s a top pouch for easy access to smaller items like a shemagh, gloves, or wet wipes. The main compartment includes a three-tier zippered section: two zippers open the top, and another vertical-centered zipper opens the entire backpack, giving you access to all the contents. The interior also has three zippered pouches, perfect for holding items like notepads, chargers, and pens. The coated zippers ensure no water or dust ingress. The two exterior side pockets are wide enough to carry most 32-ounce flasks or water bottles. This backpack is tough, easy to carry, and worth every cent.

I have a tendency to lose my purse regularly and misplace my credit card at least once a year, so I jumped at the opportunity to test the Full Moon shoulder bag (also known as a moon bag). It’s perfect for day-tripping through towns, shopping, and border crossings, and the Twig color makes it a subtle, complementary accessory. I safely store my phone, passports, assorted personal items, and a day’s worth of snacks and dog treats without needing multiple bags or a backpack. The Full Moon bag has two zippered pouches: one for smaller items like lip balm, hand

sanitizer, and change for buses and taxis, while the main pouch houses larger items and includes an interior zipped area where I keep my cash and credit cards. Made from 100-denier Robic rip-stop nylon, it’s dirt- and waterresistant. Given my track record with purses, I never leave home without it.

HIGH WATER DUFFEL | $329

FULL MOON | $49

FIELD TESTED LUISA BELL

Keeping everything organized can be challenging when overlanding in a small rig, especially with a partner or children; the idea of using something and returning it to the same place often feels foreign to them. I frequently find random items tucked away in obscure spots, much like that one drawer at home where unclaimed and unwanted items accumulate. For me, the Mission packing cube has become that drawer. I gather all the stray items and place them in the cube daily. Made from recycled 210-denier Hitra nylon, it’s highly durable and features a semi-transparent cover for easy viewing of the contents. The cubes are water-resistant and include a few latching loops for hanging or attaching to a larger backpack. They fit easily into nooks and crannies, and when I hear the inevitable, “Where is it?” I simply point to my cube.

MYSTERYRANCH.COM

Rux Essentials Set

A modular solution offering hybrid storage options.

Organization is a key component to enhancing your overland travel experience. From mapping out your route and menus to sorting your gear, having some semblance of a plan goes a long way toward boosting the fun factor. I have found that a little bit of organizing ahead of time even allows for more spontaneity in your experiences—the less time you spend rummaging around for tools, headlamps, and cooking utensils, the more opportunities you have to embrace the adventure itself. Moving beyond traditional hard and soft storage solutions, Rux’s hybrid storage systems are a unique solution for keeping your rig and gear sorted.

We tested a version of Rux’s Essentials set, which included a 70-liter collapsible box, a 25-liter bag, and a 3-liter Rux Pocket. The three items are useful on their own but work together as a modular system (Rux’s Adventure Set/$325 also includes a 25-liter dry bag). Made of waterproof TPU-coated nylons and polyesters, the materials on the Rux units have a sturdy feel, and the box features a handy transparent panel for readily identifying the contents within. The 15.7 x 19.5 x 13.8inch box has soft sides supported by collapsable metal stays, and the hinged material in the middle of each stay allows the box to fold flat when empty. It can support up to 50 pounds and has both shoulder straps and handles for easy portability.

You can mix and match a variety of colorways to complement or contrast your setup and create a color-coding system for sorting gear.

The bag and the pocket can be used in concert within the box or attached to the outside as a way to conveniently sort gear and add some extra utility. More commonly used items can be slipped into the smaller bags and quickly grabbed from the box all at once. I recruited the pocket as the spice rack for my camp kitchen setup, keeping all the seasonings together and ready at hand. I slipped my pots, pans, and dishes into the bag, occupying one-half of the box and the remaining space I used for dry food storage. Simply snagging the Rux system from the back of my Land Rover got meal times off to a swift start.

The Rux box’s folding feature proved to be a bit of a headache, though. If the box isn’t at least 80 percent full, the bendable corner stays tend to collapse in on themselves when bumped from the outside, leaving a lopsided crate and a dislodged lid. It happened more and more often as I ate through my food during trips and the box emptied; this also means the boxes aren’t exactly stackable. That said, their low profile, light weight (5.3 pounds), and flexible sides make the Rux

boxes easy to stuff into irregular corners of your vehicle, and they take up almost no room at all when folded down. You can mix and match a variety of colorways to complement or contrast your setup and create a color-coding system for sorting gear. The Essentials set costs $393, which offers a $30 savings over buying the components separately, and it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty.

$393 | RUX.LIFE

All of the elements of the Rux Essential set function well on their own or combined together in multiple configurations. | The 70-liter box swallows lots of gear and conveniently collapses for easy storage.

Klim Krios Pro Helmet

Venturing full-time into off-road realms on a KTM 500 and swapping my modular helmet for the Klim Krios Pro felt natural. In my sixth year of long-distance adventure riding, I put the Krios Pro through its paces, charting dirt trails across Baja and the American West.

Crafted from a resilient handlaid carbon-fiber shell, it offers featherlight comfort and balanced riding, and its energy-absorbing materials establish a benchmark for impact resilience. Ventilation-wise, it held its own in temperatures surpassing 90°F, with chin and forehead vents affording personalized airflow.

Turning heads and protecting your payload.

a noticeable difference, rendering the helmet comfortable for extended rides.

Having traversed 6,500 miles across North America, the Krios Pro has proven a steadfast companion, seamlessly integrating with our Cardo Packtalk Edge (or SENA) for connectivity. While the premium pricing may deter budgetconscious riders, its blend of performance, comfort, and safety features solidifies its status as a top-of-mind choice for adventure enthusiasts. As we ride on, the Krios Pro continues to earn its mantle as the best and lightest lid I’ve worn on dirt and slab.

$750 | KLIM.COM

Sporting four ride modes— street, adventure, dirt, and trail—the helmet suits various preferences and can accommodate goggles without the face shield.

Sporting four ride modes—street, adventure, dirt, and trail—the helmet suits various preferences and can accommodate goggles without the face shield. Its Pinlock-ready, anti-scratch shield maintains clarity, while the Transitions photochromic lens swiftly adjusts to bright light. However, there’s a slight delay in changing from sunlight to darkness (e.g., in a tunnel), and it’s a tad dark for nighttime riding.

Thanks to a nifty magnetic design, the Fid-lock strap closure system facilitates easy fastening, even with gloves, but achieving a snug fit under the chin can be tricky, often leaving a small gap between the strap and my lower jaw.

Aerodynamically bolstered by its liner system, the Krios Pro offers a quiet ride, an asset on prolonged journeys, and the visor and spoiler enhance stability and comfort. Its antimicrobial, sweat-wicking liner keeps things fresh in sweltering or strenuous conditions such as those we experienced in Death Valley. With quick-release, tool-free shield and visor changes, maintenance is also a breeze, attesting to the helmet’s practicality honed through real-world revisions.

Aesthetically, it’s pleasing. The Krios Pro is offered in diversified designs, from vibrant and bold to understated classics; there’s a style to suit many tastes. Next time, I’d choose a more eye-catching colorway like Jason’s in charger peyote over mine in matte black. Black helmets tend to feel warmer in hot weather, are less visible among traffic users, and fail to pop in photos or videos.

The helmet’s sizing ensures a snug fit for most, but I faced a personal challenge: two ridges inside caused pressure on my forehead due to my specific head shape, leaving red marks. Fortunately, a creative fix involving a spoon and golf ball, gently compressing the polystyrene a few millimeters, made

by Lisa

EDITOR’S NOTE The Klim Krios Pro is also featured in the Moto Helmet Best of Breed by Sean Gorman on page 69.

Photo

Morris

Asa full-time rider, the battle of thumb-wrestling my throttle during long rides prompted seeking a solution. Enter the Atlas throttle lock mounted on my lively KTM, poised to be my throttle hand’s personal aide. Activated with a button tap, the Atlas holds the throttle in place, granting my hand respite while I adjust the gear and the GPS or indulge in a Taylor Swift “Shake It Off” session without sacrificing speed. Installation? If you can handle a screwdriver, you’re golden. Installing it between my grip flange and throttle housing took 10 minutes. Ensure there’s no grease during installation. Tip: Watch the setup video. Its universal fit clamps onto practically any throttle tube diameter.

Constructed from hardened stainless steel, the Atlas has seen me through rain and shine, desert and dirt, mile after mile. It offers flexibility, allowing speed adjustments by twisting the throttle as usual. With Top Kit (my preference with shorter fingers) and Bottom Kit low-profile configurations, the Atlas facilitates a snug fit, staying out of your grip’s way. It’s a reliable investment backed by a money-back guarantee and a two-year warranty. While not ideal for city riding or twisty mountain roads, it excels on marathon highway stretches or post-off-road recovery. Suitable for riders experiencing hand fatigue, this cruise control has become my bestie on the open road—goodbye thumb strain and hello smoother journey.

$165/TOP KIT, $155/BOTTOM KIT | ATLASMOTO.COM

Atlas Throttle Lock

Conquering the road via the handsfree highway.

by

Bubba Goose Packs

Durability meets sustainability in these made-in-the-USA premium offerings.

Bubba Goose Design was founded in the summer of 2022 by Delian Scudder. With two decades of product development experience for the US military and the outdoor industry, Scudder has leveraged his expertise to launch a brand dedicated to producing robust and sustainable products. Hand-sewn in Seattle, Washington, Bubba Goose uses high-quality, locally sourced materials, employing fabrics upcycled from the military and outdoor industries.

Photo

Jason Spafford

FIELD TESTED GRAEME BELL

DUFFLE | $180

The Bubba Goose duffle is crafted from 1,000-denier DuPont Cordura and Kevlar-reinforced nylon laminate, materials chosen for their proven durability and performance in harsh conditions. The bag features a minimalist design that emphasizes functionality. It’s equipped with exterior Velcro patches, a Texas-origin leather shoulder strap liner, webbing, buckles, and two YKK coil center zippers. Despite its rugged build, the bag remains surprisingly lightweight at just 1.1 pounds.

In terms of aesthetic appeal, it looks like a premium product, even from afar. Available in colors like black and coyote, it offers a stylish yet understated look that appeals to outdoor enthusiasts and urban adventurers alike. The Bubba Goose duffle in the large size is not particularly big (22 x 11 inches); that said, it is big enough to carry a weekend’s worth of summer clothing and still be TSA carry-on compliant. Compact efficiency is achieved by a combination of design and materials; the Cordura base material is almost thin enough to be translucent (in the wolf gray color) but has proven to be as tough and hardy as any thicker material that we have tested in the past. Additionally, the straps and handles are minimalist and add no significant volume to the bag. My only gripe with the duffle and HD (heavy-duty) version below is that the slim shoulder strap is less comfortable than a broad one on long walks with a heavy load.

The Wolf Pack is a versatile backpack available in three sizes: small, medium, and large. Intended for both everyday use and outdoor adventures, this pack is crafted from US-milled, military-grade, 1,000-denier Cordura fabric and reinforced nylon laminate, ensuring durability. Its lightweight design comes in just under 2 pounds, with large exterior pockets for easy access, and a comfortable fit adjustable for a range of body sizes. The pack includes an internal neon green signal panel for visibility, enhancing its utility in various environments. The portage straps can take a bit of getting used to as they are designed to be highly adaptive and robust while retaining Bubba Goose’s minimalist style. The small backpack stores a surprising amount of gear, and the two front pockets are more than adequate for carrying larger items (water bottles, tech, etc.) that might otherwise need to be stored within the main compartment. The main compartment is easily accessed thanks to the longitudinal front zipper.

If you need a heavy-duty duffle, the Bubba Goose HD comes in medium and large sizes with a waterproof, sustainable X-Pack RX30 shell and a reinforced base with two layers of militaryspec 1,000-denier Cordura. It includes a foam insert for added rigidity and padding. The bag has webbing for the handles and shoulder strap, ensuring strength and comfort. An oversized YKK zipper is designed for snag-free operation with gloved hands, and a large exterior Velcro patch for personalization with IDs or patches enhances its utility. The HD is remarkably similar to the Bubba Goose duffle, except that it is intended for rougher use, though the regular duffle is no slouch. Also available in black.

The Trunk Monkey is a tote bag designed for everyday use, and we never leave camp without it. Its capacity is roughly double that of a standard grocery bag, making it suitable for a variety of carrying needs. It features heavyweight fabric-wrapped webbing handles and a triple-laminate fabric that is highly stretch-resistant. Available in two sizes (regular, 7 gallons; extra-large, 10 gallons), the bag’s bottom is crafted from heavy-duty coated and reinforced canvas, providing stiffness and durability, and is lined inside with padded firefighter orange fleece to cushion contents. It includes an exterior pocket with a #8 YKK zipper for smaller items and a Velcro patch for personalization with IDs or logos. It’s perfect for quick trips to the store or as a day bag for outings.

BUBBAGOOSEDESIGN.COM

HD DUFFLE | $200

TRUNK MONKEY CARRY ALL | $55

WOLF PACK | $220

VSSL Nest Pour Over Kit + Java G-25 Grinder Bundle

WhenVSSL released its Nest Pour Over kit in early 2024, promising a bombproof, goanywhere all-in-one solution to coffee on the go, it faced long odds as a substitute for my evolved camp kit: the Lardera Chestnut C2 Max hand grinder, Hario V60 metal dripper, and stainless Able Kone filter (a durable and lightweight combination that has never let me down). But the VSSL kit is a worthy opponent, packing down into a single, beautiful cylinder that somehow fits two double-wall-insulated 10-ounce cups, a splash-resistant lid, a stainless-steel mesh filter that sits neatly into the dripper, and a Java G25 grinder that packs into the chamber.

An innovative, one-of-a-kind solution for your backcountry cup of joe.

The Java G25 grinder might be the best part of the pourover kit, but I did have a couple of minor nits with it. Most of the handle unfolds from the aircraft-grade 6061 aluminum top with a few twists of the fingers; then a push button opens the lid and the chamber where the fresh beans go. Unscrew the base, where grounds are stored, and you’ll find an ergonomic handle tucked inside, attached to the adjustment dial. It’s a clever place to stow that part of the handle, though it won’t go back into its container without twisting the grind size to a fine enough setting to expose enough of the head to which the handle piece attaches. In other words, if your preferred grind size is sea salt, you’ll have to turn a few clicks toward finer, reattach the end of the handle, and then return to where you had it the next time you brew.

My other small beef with the grinder is that it only packs in about 25 grams of beans. Even though that’s an entirely reasonable amount to brew a 10-ounce cup of coffee, which makes perfect sense given the size of cups that come with the VSSL kit, my daily coffee indulgence is about 14 ounces. I typically use 28 grams of beans to get there, so if this grinder could accommodate just a few more grams, it’d be slightly better.

Alternatives tend to get hung up on this or that bean as I’m working my way through a grind, requiring an extra kick

of forearm force to get moving again. The VSSL is somehow smooth throughout.

As for the rest of the 11.5-inch-tall, 6-piece kit, it marries elegance and function beautifully. Because the dripper and filter screw into the awaiting cup thanks to its dual-thread design, the whole apparatus weighs just 36.6 ounces and is super stable. The flexible steel mesh of the dripper makes for a nicely timed brew, allowing water to pass through it not too quickly and not too slowly.

What VSSL does better than the best pourover systems is all about portability and form factor. You could even store a few rounds of beans in the leftover space. It’s a Bond-level innovation in coffee-on-the-go.

$225 | VSSLGEAR.COM

What VSSL does better than the best pour-over systems is all about portability and form factor.

VSSL’s grinder fits neatly into a single cylinder, which has two cups and a mesh filter. | The mesh filter handles a pour-over brew nicely, so long as you get the grind size right.

Peak Design Everyday Phone Case, Mount, and Tripod

An all-in comprehensive system that meets durability and utility expectations.

In my midlife, I am a new motorcyclist. That means I am exceptionally careful in how, when, and where I ride. I have an acute sense of my mortality, and on a bike, distractions are deadly. Here, of course, are a few products designed to add distraction to the riding experience—but only if we let them. Peak Design has rolled out a line of well-engineered and useful phone mounts and cases, and stands to lend some utility to your long rides without too much complexity.

screen protector, so wet conditions are a problem—it is far from waterproof. It has, however, protected my device from plenty of clumsy drops.

My motorcycle lives outside most of the year, so the Peak Design mount must also, and it has weathered all kinds of conditions without any visible or structural degradation.

My current ride is an old, Ducati-powered Cagiva Gran Canyon adventure bike. That dry-clutch Ducati V-twin is a shaking monster, so adding a phone mount means vibrationdampening is a must-have if I ever want to see—never mind concentrate on—a navigation screen. Peak Design offers two versions of its shudder-killing motorcycle phone mounts: a stem-type for clip-on handlebars and a bar-type. I have been using the bar mount for a couple of months and have seen far better results than my old rigid phone mount in terms of both legibility and durability. To the latter, my motorcycle lives outside most of the year, so the Peak Design mount must also, and it has weathered all kinds of conditions without any visible or structural degradation. It installs with straightforward hardware and offers 360° of adjustability.

The simple but highly effective rubber anti-vibration device integrated into the mount smooths out not only engine frequencies but also washboard gravel and more substantial hits to the suspension. The SlimLink attachment mechanism clips immediately and securely to the Everyday phone case and releases with one touch. I have never once worried about my phone (iPhone 11 Pro) flying off into the ether, even at highway speeds. The Everyday phone case itself (also available for Samsung and Pixel models) has a pleasing soft-touch outer skin that feels like denim, and the manufacturing tolerances are highly precise, so it fits snugly. The Everyday case is not fully enclosed and doesn’t have an integrated

The mobile tripod is a magnetic accessory that clamps readily to the back of the Everyday case. It is handy off the bike for setting up a tiny movie theater when it’s time to relax and framing photos when it’s time to post. It interferes with the SlimLink attachment point, so when you’re ready to ride, you’ll need to slip it off and store it in the included carrying case. The metal construction also adds some weight to the package but ensures longevity.

Overall, the Peak Design mount, case, and tripod, especially at their price points, have performed up to snuff. However, like many products in this category, once you buy into one component, you’re committed to the rest because of proprietary elements like the SlimLink mounting system. This results in unavoidable drawbacks. For example, the phone case’s lack of all-weather endurance is a drag on the mount’s excellent anti-vibration capabilities, which can be a distraction.

$100/BAR MOUNT, $40+/EVERYDAY CASE, $80/ TRIPOD | PEAKDESIGN.COM

Clockwise: The Peak Design bar-style phone mount offers one-touch operation and smooths out vibrations both large and small. | The phone tripod has 360-degree adjustability, but interferes with the phone mount when it’s attached to the case. | The Everyday phone case features soft-touch materials, but no integrated screen protector.

Dometic Inflatable Shelters

A stellar combination of lightning-fast setup and ease of use.

InNorth America, inflatable tents are still a novelty (they have been de rigueur in Europe for some time now) and seem to teeter on the edge of gimmickry. We decided it was time to put one through its paces, and Dometic volunteered to send one of their TRT 140 Air inflatable roof tents along with their Hub2 inflatable free-standing shelter for longterm testing. I slept in the TRT 140 for over 30 nights across five Western states in all kinds of weather conditions. Are these shelters as good as claimed or full of hot air?

The first metric that grabs your attention about the TRT 140 is its 103-pound base weight. That’s 50 or so pounds below most of the lightest soft or hard-sided two-person rooftop tents. The bantamweight is a boon for drivers of smaller trucks, Subarus, and other crossover SUVs with limited static and dynamic roof-carrying capacity. The trifold TRT 140 also stows neatly into a 59 x 32 x 12-inch package on your roof rack, wrapped in a PVC cover. A 2-inch foam mattress and condensation mat furnish the interior, along with plenty of mesh storage. Two large pockets with hook-and-loop closures hang from the door side for stashing shoes and the included air pump.

The inflatable design (essentially two large hoops framing the long edges of the shelter) bestows the TRT 140 with the largest windows I have ever seen in a rooftop tent. Along with the mesh skylight, the ventilation situation in the Dometic is second to none. The 300D polyester ripstop tent material is highly waterproof, and though the rainfly might initially seem a little skimpy, the TRT 140 weathered plenty of rainy nights without ingress. A note on the rainfly: it is fiddly to remove and install, especially on taller vehicles like my Land Rover Defender. If it is off, and you need it in a hurry, don’t count on it. That said, I rode out a surprise midnight thunderstorm in the Montana high country without the fly and stayed perfectly dry.

If you tend toward introversion like me, the TRT 140 may test your social boundaries because setup and takedown in a common campsite will draw a crowd. The main spectacle is the surprise of most onlookers by a rooftop tent coming to life simply through the magic of air. The 12-volt Dometic Gale pump attaches to a single valve near the tent entrance. After unfolding the structure from its cover, it inflates the habitat in 1 minute 50 seconds (on average, in my timed tests) with a mere 9 psi of pressure. That’s fairly quick, but it’s nothing compared to collapsing the tent, which, with a pop and a whoosh, deflates in about two seconds. The pump initially seemed like a possible failure point—it feels unsubstantial and makes a huge racket—but it continues to soldier on.

The first metric that grabs your attention about the TRT 140 is its 103-pound base weight. That’s 50 or so pounds below most of the lightest soft or hard-sided twoperson rooftop tents.

My complaints are few. The mattress, while adequate, feels thin and too firm at the TRT 140’s price point. An inflatable or possibly an inflatable/foam hybrid mattress would add a touch of luxury to the sleeping experience. The plasticky extension hose for the pump is too stiff. The lack of flexibility means the vibration from the pump can twist the hose under air pressure, gradually unscrewing it from the tent valve, introducing a leak, and delaying inflation indefinitely. That pump is equipped with a handful of adapters for other inflatables (like paddleboards), but in reality, it will have only one purpose. It will never inflate your tires. The trifold design means even though the TRT 140 has a small footprint on

FIELD TESTED STEPHAN EDWARDS

your roof rack in travel mode, once deployed, it will occupy the entire roof.

The possibility of leaks or punctures is an open issue that hangs over inflatable shelters. But after many inflation/deflation cycles, exposure to the elements, and generally rough treatment living full-time on top of a Land Rover for months, there is no sign that it will suffer from those problems. If you are careful with sharp objects and tree branches around the tent it will be fine, and the inflation tubes are patchable. It is highly wind resilient and resists flapping and buffeting, far better than any traditional soft-sided rooftop tent I’ve ever used in those conditions. And the travel cover is probably the best on the market. It has integrated structural elements and reinforced material at the corners and where it rides on the ladder. It’s neither too tight (making installation a snap) nor too loose. My friends report that fluttering at highway speeds is minimal.

Shade is at a premium no matter where you travel, and vehicle-mounted awnings are often cumbersome to set up and hard to move as the sun does. Once you pitch that rig-side awning, the only shade you get will be during one particular, fleeting time of day unless you capitulate to moving your vehicle. A standalone shelter can be adjusted and shuffled around as the day progresses, always ensuring a slice of shade.

The Hub2 makes it even easier with its inflatable architecture, inflating with the same Gale pump that the TRT 140 rooftop tent does in about two minutes. The resulting structure is incredibly rigid and lightweight. Takedown is also hilariously similar to the TRT 140; pulling the plug drops the Hub2 in less than five seconds. Integrated tie-downs mean you can ground it in place with stakes, but when it’s time to move, the 20-pound weight means even a robust child can pick it up and place it somewhere else. The 3-D dimensions make a perfect cube, 90.5 x 90.5 x 90.5 inches, which affords plenty of headroom and offers generous space for a group. The included ground sheet keeps things clean and offers an anchor point for the optional magnetically sealed solid or mesh walls ($100 for each wall or $150 for the full mesh wall kit). The Hub2 can be turned into a fully enclosed room to fight insects and weather, and you can mix and match the panels for added utility.

The Hub2 can be turned into a fully enclosed room to fight insects and weather, and you can mix and match the panels for added utility.

My experience with the Hub2 was colored at first by my innate prejudice against awnings and standalone shelters I’ve used in the past. Floppy, difficult to set up, suffering with flimsy aluminum poles, and constantly needing adjustment, I tended to do without the benefits of their shade, even in sunny climes. They were just too much work. However, the Hub2 has proven to be far more useful. Packing up also takes only a few minutes, and the carrying case features backpackstyle straps for easy transport and storage.

Worries over punctures and leaks mirror the TRT 140. I’m not convinced that the recycled and waterproof polyester fabric that holds up the Hub2 is more susceptible to failure than the aluminum poles that support most other portable shelters. It might be even more robust, especially in inclement conditions.

NEWS ASHLEY GIORDANO PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS COLLARD

The Explorers Club: Not Just for Scientists

Leveraging 4WD vehicles for conservation during the Old Traction Road Expedition.

Housedin a New York City building on East 70th Street lies the headquarters of the Explorers Club. Home to the KonTiki globe, the Apollo 11 moon flag, and thousands of archival volumes, artifacts, and maps gathered since the club’s inception in 1904, the society’s mission remains “to explore by all means possible.” Its impressive history includes famous firsts such as the North Pole and South Pole expeditions, the Mount Everest summit, descending the Mariana Trench, and the unforgettable step for humankind on the moon’s surface in 1969. With more than 30 national and international chapters, the Explorers Club continues its dedication to the advancement of field research, scientific exploration, and resource conservation.

The Explorers Club impressive history includes famous firsts such as the North Pole and South Pole expeditions, the Mount Everest summit, descending the Mariana Trench, and the unforgettable step for humankind on the moon’s surface in 1969.

As one would imagine, the majority of the society’s members and fellows are scientists—including biologists, geographers, botanists, and archeologists. To become a member or fellow, applicants must have worked in the field as a participant in one or more documented scientific experiments in unknown or little-known destinations to gain knowledge for humankind. Not all members and fellows, however, are scientists. Some are photographers, cinematographers, or conservationists; others have teamed up with a group of scientists to carry out their mission. And while some expeditions may rely on historical archives at HQ, most of the Explorers Club missions take place far away from the wood-paneled rooms in New York City. An even smaller percentage are granted the privilege of carrying one of the historic Explorers Club flags into the field.

In 2023, a team of experienced off-road drivers, medical and communication specialists, a photojournalist, an archeologist, a geologist, and a biologist/botanist gathered in the Mojave Desert, wielding pickaxes and shovels in the 97ºF heat. Using 4WD vehicles, the team successfully remapped the Old Traction Road, a 120-year-old historic mining route spanning some of the most rugged and remote desert terrain on Earth. The leader of this expedition, Billy Creech, is an Explorers Club fellow and former president of the Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Association.

Creech is the first to admit he isn’t an archeologist. His master’s degree is in business administration, not geology; his day job is in product management, not biology. But he knows his stuff—a product of jumping down the rabbit hole and ascribing to the concept of “fractal exploration,” which examines the world by looking at the small details, revealing more meaningful and sustainable results. In short, he’s an unwaveringly curious man with a passion for the Mojave Desert, its history, and its preservation.

With the support of the US Bureau of Land Management, Creech and his team not only remapped the Old Traction Road but discovered undocumented Native American sites, documented a threatened species of tortoise (Gopherus agassizii), mitigated private property concerns, confirmed wilderness boundaries, and gained crucial information for the local BLM to inject conservation resources to the area. As BLM vehicles must be stock, officers cannot carry large amounts of extra fuel or water, so private 4WD vehicles used on the expedition meant BLM partners could access remote areas to better understand threatened species and sensitive cultural sites. Impassable sections of the Old Traction Route were connected, leaving a path for off-road enthusiasts and field scientists to compliantly access the region without threatening wildlife or designated wilderness areas.

Creech says that being awarded the Explorers Club Nº238 flag and Rolex expedition watch provided a sense of satisfaction that, with all the people and resources involved, what he did mattered. “If I can become an Explorers Club fellow, I think anyone with a curiosity about a project can, too,” he says. To get started, he suggests contacting local BLM chapters to see if they need anything checked on in the field. On average, one officer is assigned to nearly 1 million acres of Mojave Desert—so if you live nearby, that’s the perfect place to start.

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE EXPLORERS CLUB AND THE OLD TRACTION ROAD EXPEDITION, VISIT EXPLORERS.ORG AND EXPLORERS.ORG/ JOURNALS/A-LAND-OF-RUGGED-BEAUTY/.

OVERLAND

Expedition leader Billy Creech leads the team toward the Mojave’s State Line Pass. | Creech measures a threatened desert tortoise (Gopherus agassizii).

Castles, Curves, and Carpathians

The allure of Romania beckons fantasy seekers and history lovers.

By Kira and Brendon

Hak Photography by Kira Hak

Clockwise from top left: Our crackling fire was the only sound to be heard in the still silence of a beech forest. | Taking a break to appreciate the crisp air under the forest canopy of the Domogled-Valea Cernei National Park. | Corvin Castle is among Europe’s largest castles and features a mix of gothic, renaissance, and baroque styles. | Tunnels cut through steep forested slopes along the Carpathian backroads. | Opposite left to right: Nestled in the Cerna Valley near the Poiana Ruscă Mountains, Hunedoara sits quietly beyond an impressive facade. | Time-worn paintings adorn the chapel walls of a 1792 wooden church in Gârda de Sus. | A minstrel floats a medieval melody through the halls of Corvin Castle. | Opening spread: A lively atmosphere and historical charm abound in Sibiu’s Piața Mare (Great Square).

Ireadthat every known superstition in the world is gathered into the horseshoe of the Carpathians, as if it were the centre of some sort of imaginative whirlpool; if so my stay may be very interesting,” Jonathan Harker muses in the opening pages of Dracula. Perhaps it was cliché to pick up Bram Stoker’s 1897 novel upon entry into Romania’s legendary mountain range. Yet, the first few chapters of it catapulted us deeper into the country—as much as what we had seen on our first days riding there. There was no supernatural allure, only the magical scenes of lush high meadows, steep forested slopes, and swollen river valleys.

We entered Romania by way of a small ferry over the Danube River from Serbia into the rich and wild beauty of the southern Carpathians. Over the previous few months, our motorcycles had been adrift in a sea of dreadfully hot summer temperatures. Finally, our figurative plight met a literal reality: a ferry washing us ashore to Romania’s cool and misty autumnal bliss. The refreshing temperatures only added to the enjoyment, and I could already feel the desire to extend our time here pulsating through me.

The Romanian Carpathian Mountains are divided into three groups: Eastern, Southern, and Western. Together, they form a semi-circle around the popular historical region of Transylvania. Like most mountainous regions, there are numerous national parks, with Nera Gorge-Beușnița National Park being one of them. Here, we found an abundance of remote camps that would give us time to compile a route through the country, inspired as we were by our natural surroundings. Whatever inkling I had to slow down was settled while encamped beneath a canopy of beech trees, enclosed by “

large Jurassic limestone rocks covered in green carpets of moss along the Near River, a tributary of the Danube. The scene was staggering on its own but made us more curious about the details you might otherwise miss when passing through. Our desire to absorb the ambiance was enhanced by rolling down a string of gravel roads and into Domogled-Valea Cernei National Park. Vast coniferous forests populate the highelevation landscape, and the valley overflows with springs, including Băile Herculane, where locals and tourists alike come to soak in healing thermal baths that date from the time of the Roman occupation around 153 CE.

Exploration within these forests could have gone on indefinitely, except that we were out of food, so back to civilization we had to go. The city of Hunedoara provided the shops to restock and an opportunity to seek out more history. During the 14th and 15th centuries, Hunedoara was the main iron extraction and processing center in Transylvania. Swords and spears manufactured here during this period were renowned across Europe. Commanding the region, Corvin Castle, one of Europe’s largest, sits spectacularly on a hillside, built on the site of a former Roman camp. Legend has it that Vlad Tepes III (otherwise known as Vlad the Impaler or Vlad Dracul) was imprisoned here, and it served as a fortress until the mid-15th century when it became the residence of Transylvania’s governor at the time, János Hunyadi, who transformed it into the gothic-style castle it is today. To avoid the crowds, we awoke early to be there as the doors opened so that we were wrapping up before the tour buses and long lines arrived an hour later. The remainder of the day was then open to renew supplies and energy for the next ride.

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Clockwise from top left: A storm rapidly approached our camp in a bilberry meadow atop the Scărișoara Plateau. | The Strategica route, built by German troops in WW1, is now a favored track along the Trans Euro Trail. | The last light of the day catches on wild grasses, drawing the eye to the beauty of the quiet details. | Animal husbandry traditions keep sheep grazing on open, untamed landscapes. | Boutique shops line the streets of the quaint village of Rimetea, featuring the iconic green-shuttered houses.

Opposite: Striking hoodoos formed by centuries of erosion add to the mythical feel of the landscape. | The Salina Turda salt mine now hosts a subterranean amusement park within its cool depths. | A gentle breeze rolls across the high meadows of the Latorița Mountains.

From the southeast, we headed towards the Apuseni Mountains, the left heel of the horseshoe. Along the way, we took in the Aries River Valley from behind our handlebars, continuing onto the Scărișoara Plateau at 1,426 metres, passing by livestock herders and fields of Romania’s iconic haystacks. We made camp in a meadow surrounded by bilberry bushes just in time to watch the sun succumb to the night as a storm rolled overhead for dramatic effect.

We rode through alpine vistas all afternoon, smiles plastered on our faces.

We had our sights on a hamlet by the name of Pătrăhăiţeşti at 1,200 metres above sea level on the Biharia Massif. It is located in an area of Romania called Țara Moților, which translates to Land of the Moti (pronounced motz). The Moti people have a long history of defending their rights and territories, folkloric traditions, and wood craftsmanship. Today, they rely on animal husbandry and, most recently, eco-tourism. We found a quiet guesthouse to gain a sense of village life, eating homey local dishes such as an airy donut-like dessert called pancove. In the evening, we soaked in the sweet smell of the green meadows and pine-covered hills while drinking afinata, a delicious bilberry liqueur. With each sip, I pondered the attraction to this traditional way of life. Is it an escape from the hectic modern ways that most of us adhere to, or is it more of a pull to something primal within us—a more intuitive way of being?

These thoughts stuck with me as we followed the Transursoaia (Route DN1R) out of the mountains until the rain had us pulling into a small-town fuel station for a coffee. During our stop, we befriended the owner, Ady, who told us a bit about the area, scratching a list of attractions and oddities on a napkin. We decided to stay and satisfy our curiosity, visiting Cheile Turzii, a natural limestone canyon; Salina Turda, an ancient underground salt mine turned amusement park 120 metres below the surface; and Rimetea, a rural village known for its unique white houses with dark green shutters, surrounded by the Trascău Mountains.

After a couple of days of checking out the points of interest in the area, we were ready to get back to riding, bound for the Transalpina (Route DN67C), which connects the two small towns of Novaci and Sebeș through the Parâng Mountains. This almost 150-kilometrelong stretch is filled with curves and hairpins, topping out over Urdele Pass at 2,145 metres. It is the highest paved road in the country and one of the most popular in this part of the world. It was a beautiful blue skies summer day full of excitement for this route we’d heard so much about. Once we reached the start, however, the Transalpina’s popularity was evident in its unanticipated bumper-to-bumper traffic. We veered into the forest to find camp and recalibrate our mindset and expectations.

In the morning, we consulted a map to see if we could find some off-road routes in the area instead, which is when we found Drumul Strategica. The only traffic we came across here was of the four-legged variety, a big improvement from the day before. It wouldn’t be until later that we learned that this road was an old military route built by German troops in WWI and was part of the Trans Euro Trail (TET). We rode through alpine vistas all afternoon, smiles plastered on our faces. Along the way, we passed a diversity of livestock (sheep, donkeys, and horses) grazing in the meadows while yellow and purple monkshood swayed in the gentle wind amid the summer camps of the Romani. Although they are still often referred to as gypsies, this is not

Clockwise from top left: The houses have eyes in Sibiu. | Papanaș is a traditional dessert of fried dumplings filled with cheese and topped with jam and cream. | Moss and lichen blanket the summit of the Transalpina, a route normally shrouded in clouds. | The crowd joins in for a dance during a cultural performance in Sighișoara. | Opposite left to right: The Romani people know better than to pick the poisonous amanita muscaria mushroom. | Entranceways built in the time of the horse and carriage are now barely wide enough for cars. | The chattering of rooks can be heard echoing through the cobbled streets of Sighișoara.

the preferred term and is considered a racial slur. The Romani come to the mountains to pick berries and mushrooms to sell on the roadsides of many of these popular mountain routes.

We popped out midpoint on the Transalpina and followed it down to the town of Novaci, where we spent the night drinking beer, eating pizza, and swapping stories with fellow motorcyclists from Belgium. We heard it could be possible to ride some of these renowned routes the way we wanted to, but it would take a different tack. Waking to rain and clouds, yet still determined to attempt a ride of the Transalpina again, we set out into it. During our ascent into the clouds, I worried that we wouldn’t get any view at all, but at the summit, we gloriously broke through the shroud of mist into a cool, damp alpine meadow. The road clung to the rocky terrain like the moss and lichens encompassing it, and unlike our previous attempt, we could ride at a quick enough pace to appreciate the curves.

The route and its surroundings had finally lived up to the hype, so with a feeling of satisfaction, we changed course back to the gravel onto a road called the Transcindrel, which would turn out to be a blunt contrast to the Strategica. In lieu of open meadows and expansive vistas, we were in a densely forested wonderland, with foliage so thick that sunlight barely penetrated the canopy. The only similarity was the winding dirt track devoid of fellow motorists.

When our wheels emerged from the northern shadow of the Carpathians, the Transylvanian towns waiting to greet us were reminiscent of a Tim Burton film—houses with eyes watched as we strolled the colourful streets of Sibiu. Rooks and starlings chattered at us from a clocktower while we navigated the cobbled alleyways of Sighișoara. Frequent breaks

were taken from our fantastical wanderings to indulge another sense, our tastebuds. We encountered a smattering of new treats, including everything from sarmale (savoury cabbage rolls) to ciulama de ciuperci (creamy mushroom stew) to mămăligă (hearty polenta). Each night concluded with papanaș, a traditional dessert of fried dumplings filled with cheese and topped with jam and cream, a combination that can only be described as pure heaven.

We viewed the path we’d just taken, which resembled a snake slithering off the mountain, its tail somewhere behind us with its head out of sight in the distance.

The famous Transfăgărășan Highway (Route DN7C) makes its way up, over, and through Moldoveanu and Negoiu, the highest peaks in the Făgăraș Mountains and in Romania. Thanks to the television show Top Gear, it has become undeniably popular, so we again got up nice and early on a weekday to try to enjoy it the way we like it: (mostly) to ourselves. Our early departure paid off, giving us open road to enjoy a lengthy string of tight switchbacks on the way to the summit. At the top, roadside vendors selling homemade goods were setting up in anticipation of the crowds to come. We snacked on fennel cheese, pepperettes, and bread and honey as we viewed the path we’d just taken, which resembled a snake slithering off the mountain, its tail somewhere behind us with its head out of sight in the distance.

Our procession south of the summit was no less impressive, as the forest consumed the route once again and led us straight into the habitat of Europe’s largest bear population, of which numerous examples could be seen lounging indifferently in the periphery.

As we rode into Bran, we saw the burnt-orange-tiled turrets and steeples of the castle that inspired Bram Stoker’s Castle Dracula rising above the crowns of the trees beneath a moody sky, a rainbow painted across it. I couldn’t have imagined a more thrilling way to see it in actuality for the first time. Bran Castle was built in the 14th century, and as we walked the maze of hallways, peeking in the nooks and crannies, we learned of the life of Queen Marie of Romania (granddaughter of Queen Victoria) and, separately, the communist rule of the 1960s—if these walls could talk. It wasn’t until we reached the lower levels that we discovered the castle’s relation to Dracula. We were surprised to learn that Bram Stoker had never even been to Bran, or Romania for that matter; this was simply the only castle in the region that fit the story. Dracula is, of course, a fictional character, but Vlad the Impaler, a blood-thirsty Wallachian prince with a castle 100 kilometres (as the crow flies) west of Bran, provided the bones for Stoker’s character. There are so many disparate accounts of the history and myths within this place that it’s hard to say where the line between fantasy and reality is drawn. Bren felt more drawn to the historically accurate accounts and me, the mythical. But ultimately, we were here for the same thing: a taste of a world different from our own.

A week later, and after nearly one year of traveling through the Balkans, we sat on the shore of the Danube River, watching the runoff from most of Europe empty towards the Black Sea. Like the water flowing past, it felt as though we were also being washed from this continent—spent but ready to start a new cycle. In a few more days, we were traversing south along the coast of the Black Sea, our sights set on Turkey as another thunderstorm rolled in. Massive clouds gathered whatever moisture remained above land, expelling it in spectacular fashion into the sea. Again, we felt akin to what our eyes were seeing before us, our scattered energy bound together and jettisoned east in a new form, ready to encounter the next continent of our journey: Asia.

Clockwise from top left: A look inside the bedroom of Queen Marie of Romania shows the luxuries of royalty in the early 20th century. | A journey through history unfolds down a spiral staircase. | The suitcase of a fantastical vampire hunter adds to the myth of Count Dracula. | Our first glimpse of Bran Castle was as dramatic as its history and legends. | Opposite: The famous Transfăgărășan Highway winds through the stunning Romanian mountainscape.

The Ties That Bind

Determining which tie-down straps are best suited to secure loads.

By Samuel Odio

Traveling safely isn’t just about navigating challenging terrain—it’s also about ensuring your gear is secure throughout the journey. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) report that unsecured loads alone are responsible for nearly as many US deaths on-road as all off-highway vehicle (OHV) recreationrelated fatalities.¹,² Remote wilderness travel usually involves some highway miles to get there. That combination of washboards, rutted roads, and high-speed highway travel makes securing loads especially important in the overland community.

Just as you wouldn’t neglect a first aid kit, your tie-down strap deserves careful consideration. Not only should you select the right one for the purpose, but you also need to use it correctly and ensure its purpose suits the vehicle. Scott Brady covered the latter topic well in the Spring 2018 issue (see summary sidebar).

USING YOUR TIE-DOWN CORRECTLY

Traveling on uneven terrain and highways can cause loads to shift and straps to loosen. That’s why it’s crucial to ensure your gear is not only strapped down securely but also in a way that prevents vibration from loosening the straps.

KEY CONSIDERATIONS

• CENTER YOUR LOAD Always ensure your load is centered between secure tie-downs close to its base. To illustrate this point, imagine strapping a 12-inch square box that is 8 inches tall to your vehicle’s roof (see diagram). Movement induced by road vibration can result in an 85 percent loss of tension if it is strapped 5 inches off-center. Similarly, the geometry of a strap attached to a tie-down point 20 inches away from that box results in an additional 60 percent reduction in holding force. Even if you applied 100 pounds of tension to the strap, by the end of the trip, only 6 pounds is holding that load to the vehicle.

A NOTE ON PAYLOADS

It’s important to know both your vehicle and roof rack’s payload capacity, being sure to adjust them for any aftermarket modifications. You can calculate your vehicle’s payload by subtracting the curb weight (net of any modifications) from the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR).

Weight and placement matter more than size: vehicles often “fit” more gear than they can “hold.” Stock payloads as low as 1,200 pounds on high-articulation 4WDs are common. An aftermarket roof rack, bumpers, winch, and sliders might decrease your payload by 400 pounds, leaving enough remaining payload for four 200-pound adults (and no bags).

Regarding placement, keep payloads off the roof (with high center of gravity and low carrying capacities). Instead, place heavy gear low and between the axles (lashed in the second-row footwell is ideal).

Finally, towing may reduce nearly all available payload due to the vehicle’s gross combined weight rating (GCWR). For example, a high-articulation SUV might have a GCWR of 8,117 pounds, a curb weight of 4,449 pounds, and a towing capacity of 3,500 pounds. For that vehicle, towing a 3,500-pound trailer would only leave 168 pounds for aftermarket accessories, the driver, passengers, and gear. It may be that you don’t need any tie-down straps at all.

• SECURE THE STRAP Attach the strap with a girth hitch or gated carabiner instead of an open hook. When using a cam strap, manage the slack with a half-hitch to ensure the wind does not whip the cam loose.

• RECHECK Recheck tie-down tension after a short drive to ensure no shifting happened during initial movement.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT TIE-DOWN STRAP

When it comes to selection, many good options are available. The contenders in this test include the tried-and-true NRS cam straps alongside newer, innovative solutions like the RhinoUSA retractable ratchet strap and Front Runner’s Stratchit. We also assessed the lightweight Rok Straps, known for their motorcycle-touring pedigree, alongside heavy-duty models like Bihlerflex’s ShockStrap, with a tested breaking strength of over 2,000 pounds. Each of these products serves a slightly different purpose, but all must meet the core requirements of durability, ease of use, and reliability over the long haul.

When evaluating for ease of use, we used the straps over the summer season, assessing tensioning, untensioning, and the likelihood of unexpected failures due to user error (e.g., an un-centered load). It’s worth noting that many of these straps include excellent tensioning systems that are more forgiving when loads shift after being improperly secured. To test the strap’s capability, we tensioned an off-

Diagram

BREAKING STRENGTH

Using a Hojila FM-500k force meter (with a rated ±0.2% accuracy), we subjected the straps to a slow pull, applying a gradually increasing tensile pulling force to the strap from our vehicle (which was in low range). The meter was calibrated to zero, and its accuracy was verified with a known weight. A second force meter was used when the tested performance deviated from the manufacturer’s advertised ratings. Both force meters were used in a parallel setup when the strap’s expected breaking strength was over 1,000 pounds. In the field, we don’t recommend attaching tie-down straps to a vehicle in this manner. Careful consideration was given to the rating and failure conditions of every piece of hardware in the setup to mitigate the danger of failure (e.g., using a cable dampener).

center load and then centered the load by 5 inches (15 percent of the distance between the tie-down points with the force meter installed inline at one anchor point), measuring the drop in the strap’s tension. This represents a common failure scenario: an off-center load is centered a few inches through vehicle vibration, resulting in a complete loss of tension. Indeed, tension losses in this test ranged from more than 80 percent to less than 5 percent.

When evaluating durability, we subjected straps to a direct-pull test, gradually increasing tensile load until a single point of failure. This test represents the worst-case situation (since the load’s force is typically distributed between multiple components, such as two strap hooks attached to two vehicle attachment points). Not all manufacturers define their breaking strength ratings this way. NRS, with its 1,500-pound breaking strength rating, assumes straps will be looped back and the load evenly shared between two parts of the strap. Others, like Rollercam with a 950-pound rating, assume a higher bar: the direct-pull test. In reality, both NRS and Rollercam straps performed similarly despite their different ratings. We also subjected the straps to accelerated corrosion weathering, exposing the straps to a highly saline (115,000 ppm) mildly acidic (pH5) spray 12 times over 96 hours in a humid environment at 125°F. Nearly every strap with metal hardware exhibited some corrosion, some substantially so. Ten straps were reviewed and divided into two different classes.

• LIGHT DUTY Those used for securing small- and medium-sized bags, often in motorcycle touring or vehicle interiors. All of these straps have some UV protection; many have published load ratings and safer failure characteristics than bungees.

• MEDIUM DUTY We selected straps with 1-inch webbing, UV resistance, and a published breaking strength of 900 pounds or more. Appropriate for interior and exterior loads on 4WD platforms, such as strapping down a full jerry can or spare tire. While one manufacturer went so far as to advertise their straps for vehicle recovery, we strongly recommend against that for all medium-duty straps. Under-rated recovery gear can and has caused fatalities upon failure.

Heavy-duty straps were excluded as they’re oversized for typical 4WD-vehicle cargo capacities.

1.

2. CSPC: 2023 Report of Deaths and Injuries Involving Off-Highway Vehicles with More than Two Wheels (cspc.gov)

NHTSA: 2023 Secure Vehicle Load Fact Sheet (16,878 injuries and 732 fatalities annually).

Clockwise from top: A force meter captures maximum tensile load in the breaking strength test. | Built-in nylon hooks were a common point of failure across manufacturers. | Results varied widely in the accelerated corrosion test. | Many straps (like RhinoUSA, pictured), lost significant tension when our test load was shifted 5 inches. | Opening page: New tie-downs are on the market with innovative constant tension devices, gated hooks, and UVstable material.

ROK STRAPS

MEDIUM-DUTY ADJUSTABLE STRETCH STRAP | MODEL 10306, 42 INCHES

Gary McCay pioneered the adjustable elastic strap in 1998. Close to bankruptcy a year later, the death of a young boy from a traditional bungee cord spurred Gary to sell his house and double down on the invention.

Today, Rok Straps enjoys a well-deserved following in the adventure moto community, selling three classes of straps (light, medium, and heavy-duty) for securing loads from 40 to 100 pounds. We appreciated the built-in latex elastic (sleeved in a UV-resistant polyester) that maintains tension under shifting loads. We found ourselves reaching for this strap when securing interior loads or throwing a lightweight bag on the bike’s cargo rack. The strap’s attachment style is simple: two end loops allow you to quickly girthhitch the strap around most objects, and the plastic hardware will leave your vehicle’s paint unscathed.

We tested the Rok-advertised medium-duty strap (we’re classifying it as light duty here). It had the lowest breaking point and the lightest weight (0.09 pounds) of the 10 straps tested. We applied 74 pounds of direct-pull tensile force before its plastic clip failed, adequate for its advertised purpose (they claim it’ll secure up to 60 pounds). The strap experienced a 26 percent loss in tension under our shifting-load test.

When buying this strap, it’s worth noting most retailers list an incorrect load rating. While Rok Straps doesn’t publish a WLL or breaking strength, they claim the 28-inch strap can secure 40 pounds, the 42-inch strap can secure 60 pounds, and the 60-inch strap can secure 100 pounds.

$24/2-PACK | ROKSTRAPS.COM

BIHLERFLEX PERFECT BUNGEE

ADJUST-A-STRAP BUNGEE W/NYLON HOOKS | 48 INCHES

Bihlerflex assembles Perfect Bungee (and ShockStrap) in the USA. As the original manufacturer, in 2010, Bihlerflex co-developed a proprietary polyurethane formula with a high UV rating and has since added additional (undisclosed) UV-stabilizing chemicals.

The bungee is 48 inches but can be adjusted shorter. Bihlerflex advertises it will maintain its integrity at up to two times stretch (to 96 inches) with 34 pounds of force. Because of this stretch, the bungee lost only two percent of its tension under our shifting load test. In our tensile break test, we applied 96 pounds of force, stretching the strap to over three times its original length while unable to break it. While the strap gradually lost its internal strength through stress relaxation (think pulling chewing gum apart), no other strap we tested failed this gracefully. Twenty-four hours later, the strap had returned to its original length.

We recommend selecting a model with removable (ungated) hooks (nylon or galvanized steel). In our testing, it was common across brands that built-in nylon hooks would fail when overloaded. The failure occurred either at the hook itself or the attachment point. This model with removable hooks did not fail at the hookstrap interface; if the hooks fail, you can easily upgrade them.

We saw no UV degradation, though Bihlerflex indicated that extended use in warm, high-humidity environments could lead to eventual material breakdown through hydrolysis (something we did not experience). Despite this, we consider this bungee stateof-the-art and aren’t surprised to see examples over a decade old still on the road. Other variants of the Perfect Bungee include the FlexWeb Cargo Net ($45, pictured in orange on page 47).

$53/4-PACK | THEPERFECTBUNGEE.COM

LOOPROPE

LOOPROPE | 60 INCHES

The LoopRope we tested was a 5-foot latex elastic bungee with eight hitches and a polyester sheath. Two stainless-steel gated carabiners (rated at 150 pounds) make it easy to use for dozens of light-duty applications. Incredibly versatile, we used it as a gear hanger at camp and an emergency dog leash on the road. For those intimidated by knots (truckers hitch, anyone?), this can be a useful cord.

LoopRope performed well in the shifting-load test, experiencing a 13 percent loss in tension. However, in our tensile tests, the rope failed prematurely at an average of 163 pounds of directpull force (advertised strength of 450 pounds). While LoopRope suggests using its product to secure wheelbarrows, ladders, and other rooftop loads, it’s unsuitable for those purposes (consider a medium-duty strap).

LoopRope markets itself as a safer alternative to bungee cords, and there is truth to that. Steel hooks on bungee cords are surprisingly dangerous; one study cites bungee cords as a common source of eye injuries, on par with power tools.3 Meanwhile, the minimal aluminum hardware built into the LoopRope is covered with a protective sleeve; there are no hook ends, and the separate carabiners are gated, making them less likely to dislodge when tensioning. Because the cord failed in our testing before the carabiners did, they are less likely to become projectiles.

The polyester sheath provides some UV protection, but the manufacturer does warn that “prolonged exposure to sunlight” may damage the rope. Based on Looprope’s test data, we would expect these straps to lose 18 percent of their strength after 200 hours of sunlight exposure. For that reason, these cords are best stored inside.

$22, $40/2-PACK, $58/3-PACK | LOOPROPE.COM

FRONT RUNNER

STRATCHIT | 63 INCHES

Front Runner developed the Stratchit in 2013 with 1-inch polyester webbing, stainless steel carabiners, and a constant tension “bungee” integrated into a polyester sleeve. Fully stretched, the strap is approximately 6 feet in length. The bungee performed well in our shifting load test, experiencing a loss of tension of only 11 percent.

The high-quality stainless-steel hardware outperformed all other metal hardware in the 96-hour corrosion test, unaffected by the acidic saline environment. No other metal hardware emerged from that test in better condition, making the Stratchit a decent choice for coastal environments.

Front Runner advertises a 220-pound working load limit (WLL). However, the plastic buckle is a weak link that failed our direct-pull test at an average of 182 pounds of force. This performance makes it hard for us to recommend the strap for heavier loads, especially considering accidents can impart forces 2,000 percent higher than the mass of the payload. The polyester sleeve is a secondary point of failure if the elastic fails, although that was not an issue for us.

In day-to-day use, we wished the metal carabiners did not have keylock noses. Hooking the strap back onto itself is a very frustrating experience; the noses tend to dig into the Stratchit’s fabric-sleeve-fishhook style, making them hard to remove. As a result, the strap seems designed to attach to medium-gauge tiedown points, where the carabiner can clip onto the strap (like the Front Runner stainless-steel tie-down rings, SKU RRAC025). We reached for other straps with girth-hitch loops or larger carabiners when lashing to wider tie-down points (like the roof rack itself).

$40/2-PACK | FRONTRUNNEROUTFITTERS.COM

3. Potockova, A & Strmen, P & Krásnik, Vladimir & Olah, Z. (2010). Mechanical injuries of the eye. Bratislavské lekárske listy. 111. 329-35.

GREEN CHILE ADVENTURE GEAR

MONDO CAM STRAP | 48 INCHES

BIHLERFLEX

SHOCKSTRAP CONSTANT TENSION RATCHET STRAP | 120 INCHES

Mike Knowlden, the inventor of the ShockStrap, pioneered the development of the constant tension cam strap in 1998. Working on an Alaskan crab boat, Mike became frustrated with traditional tie-down straps coming loose when securing crab pots in the Bering Sea.

This innovation has been the most significant advancement in exterior-vehicle tie-down safety since the development of the WWII-era ratchet strap. Mike sadly passed away in 2012, but the product lives on. Bihlerflex has been making the ShockStrap since 2015, having purchased the brand in 2021.

Green Chile Adventure Gear created the Mondo strap after repeated failures in other straps’ plastic hardware, which caused them to lose gear bags on the trail. The Mondo straps occupy a “Goldilocks” zone in the tie-down market: they have a constant tension built-in bungee, a simple-to-use cam, and are lightweight and strong. While they don’t publish a WLL, we found their breaking strength to be 921 pounds, higher than several medium-duty straps despite weighing 0.34 pounds, less than most of our light-duty straps. The high-quality NRS metal cam buckles ensured we never had one fail, and they exhibited only cosmetic corrosion during our test.

The Mondo strap weighs about the same as the NRS strap, but the buckle is attached to a constant-tension latex bungee in a nylon sleeve. This mechanism allowed it to lose only 28 percent of its tension in our shifting-load test. Unlike the Stratchit, the Mondo strap can easily attach to tie-down points as thick as 1.5 inches in diameter by doubling them back onto themselves through their girth-hitch loops. The webbing is only 4 feet long, appropriate for moto and other light-duty loads (the intended use case). That said, you can special-order longer webbing or reuse an old ratchet strap’s longer 1-inch webbing.

I continuously reached for these straps for both interior and lighter exterior loads. Their fatal flaw is that you’ll use them so often that they will tend to disappear. Ultimately, after testing over a dozen straps (including those covered here), these are the ones I bought. I now keep two sets in each vehicle.

$35/2-PACK | GREENCHILEADV.COM

The ShockStrap was the highest capacity 1-inch strap tested, with durable polyester webbing and quality hardware. With an advertised 1,500-pound breaking strength, the ShockStrap outperformed that number by over 500 pounds, breaking at 2,013 pounds of force. The large ratchet allowed us to load the device’s UV-stable polyurethane spring with 108 pounds of tension. Even after a 19 percent drop in tension during the shifting load test, this strap applied more force than any other. For heavier loads, Bihlerflex makes 1.5- and 2-inch straps with a similar design and breaking strengths of up to 10,000 pounds.

This 1-inch strap is made with UV-resistant webbing, though the zinc finish showed significant corrosion in the salt-spray test. You’ll find yourself loving these straps but needing to replace the ratchet due to corrosion. Luckily, the elastic mechanism, which sets this unit apart, is built into the webbing portion of the strap and is compatible with any quality 1-inch ratchet. I selected this strap for the rare occasion when we had to lash something heavy to the roof.

$70/2-PACK | THEPERFECTBUNGEE.COM

MEDIUM-DUTY STRAPS

RHINOUSA

RETRACTABLE RATCHETING STRAP | 120 INCHES

RhinoUSA started as a family business in Murrieta, California, with the aim of building better powersports accessories. The company sells a wide variety of straps (all of which are manufactured abroad), most of which are overkill for the overland community (see sidebar on payload). This includes a heavy-duty 1.6-inch ratchet strap that contains an innovative self-tensioning device with an advertised break strength of 4,000 pounds. We did not test that strap but would consider it when carrying a heavier, trailered load.

We evaluated a medium-duty retractable 10-foot strap with 1-inch webbing. The polyester webbing retracted similarly to a seatbelt without compromising strength. The strap exceeded its advertised strength of 1,209 pounds; ultimately, the hook broke at 1,633 pounds of force. The strap exhibited some corrosion in the salt-spray test, which reduced the self-tension force of the retracting mechanisms (at times, inhibiting retraction). As a result, we wouldn’t recommend these straps for exterior vehicle use on extended overland trips.

The retracting mechanism could be helpful for someone intimidated by a traditional ratcheting tie-down, as the user does not need to thread the strap through the ratchet. For those comfortable with ratchet operation, we’d recommend choosing a constant-load tension technology (like the ShockStrap). Without a constant-tension device, this strap lost 82 percent of its tension in the shifting-load test.

$75/4-PACK, $40/2-PACK | RHINOUSAINC.COM

NRS

Bill Parks, the founder of NRS, introduced the NRS strap in 1974 after several river rafting fatalities, which he felt could have been prevented with an easier-to-release tie-down; Parks eventually landed on a spring-loaded cam.

Today, the blue NRS strap is a tried-and-true classic. The UVprotected polypropylene webbing is hydrophobic, comes in various lengths from 1 to 20 feet, and includes a version with openclip and girth-hitch ends (which we prefer).

NRS advertises this strap with a working load limit (WLL) of 500 pounds and a break strength of 1,500 pounds. In our directpull test, however, the strap webbing broke at 720 pounds. NRS informed us that since most of their straps are designed to loop back onto themselves, similar to a belt, the advertised 1,500-pound break strength assumes the load is distributed evenly across two sections of the strap. When tested in this configuration (webbing fed through the attachment point and double-backed to the cam, reducing net load), the strap held up to 1,676 pounds before failing.

The strap has no constant tension mechanism; as a result, it lost 80 percent of its tension during our shifting load test, putting it at a disadvantage for overlanding use cases where loads commonly shift due to vibration.

$18/2-PACK | NRS.COM

ROLLERCAM

TIE-DOWN STRAP WITH HOOK ENDS | 12 INCHES

Utah’s Rollercam was first developed in 2003 by Founder Eric Simonson. The materials used in the cam appear high grade: the cam itself is molded using a corrosion-resistant Zamak 5 alloy with stainless-steel and marine-grade brass components, and the polypropylene webbing is UV-resistant and hydrophobic, similar to NRS. Rollercam introduced an innovative twist, though, as a roller is built into the cam, allowing smoother tightening. The value of this thoughtfully designed cam was especially appreciated after using the Torkstrap (see next review). In our test, the roller allowed us to apply more tension to the strap (20.2 pounds, 57 percent more than the NRS strap). However, because it has no constant tension device, it lost 86 percent of that tension in our shifting-load test.

Straps are available in various widths, lengths (from 1 to 20 feet), attachment points, and multiple colors. Rollercam also has an innovative Roperoller cam and models useful in the overland community, such as a cam strap with L-track ends. Models with carabiner or gated hook ends allow for easy loading and unloading. All attachment points and hardware are triple-tacked to the webbing, creating a secure bond.

The cam withstood the salt spray well with minimal corrosion; however, the roller eventually seized. In our pull tests, the polypropylene webbing failed at an average of 625 pounds of direct-pull force, similar to NRS. This is below the company’s in-house tested performance of 900+ pounds. While the company is investigating our findings further, both numbers are beyond their advertised WLL of 350 pounds.

$16 | ROLLERCAM.COM

TORKSTRAP

M500 SPRING-LOADED TIE-DOWN STRAP | 14 INCHES

Torkstrap, like Mondo straps, combines a cam mechanism with an elastic constant tensioner device (in their case, a steel spring). The cam and hook hardware performed well in the corrosion test, and while the steel spring rusted, it didn’t affect functionality. Unlike latex, we expect the steel spring to have a longer service life since it won’t degrade under UV exposure. In the first tensile-strength test, the strap broke at 926 pounds, well below the advertised 1,500-pound breaking strength. The square nature of the cam design tended to cut into the strap at high loads, causing the strap to rip at the connection point. The second test (a newer model with a slightly different design) performed better, maintaining integrity until 1,521 pounds. In the shifting load test, the strap suffered from the short travel length of the spring, losing 44 percent of its tension.

This cam was the most difficult to thread of the units tested, and a bit of patience was needed to push the rope through the high-friction interface. The Torkstrap’s gated hook ends were a saving grace in this regard, as they allowed us to loosen and unhook the strap in one piece (instead of pulling it out of the cam). The sewn loop ends allowed for flexibility in choosing tie-down points. While Torkstrap advertises using their straps for vehicle towing, we cannot endorse that use; hardware on or connected to underrated straps can quickly turn into deadly projectiles.

$70/4-PACK, $40/2-PACK | TORKSTRAP.COM

TIE-DOWN STRAP COMPARISON

MANUFACTURER ROK STRAPS

Model Medium-duty Adjustable Stretch Strap (model 10306)

Pefect Bungee Adjust-a-Strap

Materials 4

Hardware: Plastic buckle

Webbing: 5/8-inch polyester braid

Constant-tension device: Latex bungee/ polyester sheath

Advertised strength (pounds) Secure loads up to

Hardware: Un-gated nylon or galvanized steel hook

Webbing: n/a Constant-tension device: Polyurethane base material with additional UV stabilizers

Hardware: Stainless-steel carabiners

Webbing: n/a Constant-tension device: Latex bungee sheathed in a polyester cord

Hardware: Stainless-steel carabiners, plastic buckle

Webbing: 1-inch polyester

Constant-tension device: Latex bungee with polyester sheath

Hardware: Die-cast zinc NRS cam

Webbing: 1-inch nylon

Constant-tension device: Latex in a nylon sheath

OVERLAND RATINGS

(pounds)

Shifting load test (pounds)

Acclerated corrosion test

Tensions

Initial: 9.0

Shifted-load: 6.7

Tension loss: 26%

No metal hadware, no detectable impact

4. Webbings included polypropylene, nylon, and polyester. Polypropylene is the least expensive webbing material type. It’s hydrophobic (resisting mildew) but not as strong, abrasion-resistant, or UV-resistant as nylon or polyester. As a result, most manufacturers add UV inhibitors to polypropylene. Nylon is less UV-resistant than polyester, but it is high-strength and abrasionresistant.

Tensions

Initial: 20.3

Shifted-load: 20

Clips/China

Tension loss: 2% Tensions

No metal hadware, no detectable impact

Initial: 16.2

Shifted-load:14

Tension loss: 13%

Stainless steel carabiners, minor rust, no detectable impact

17.4

Shifted-load: 15.4

loss: 11%

Stainless steel hardware, no visible corrosion, no detectable impact

16.6

Shifted-load: 11.8

Tension loss: 28%

Minor visible corrosion, no detectable impact

TIE-DOWN STRAP COMPARISON

Model Shockstrap Constant Tension Ratchet Strap

Materials 4

Hardware: Zinc-plated ratchet, zinc-plated gated hook

Webbing: 1-inch polyester

Constant-tension device: Propertiary polyurethane formula

Retractable Ratcheting Strap

Hardware: Steel retractable ratchet, steel gated hook

Webbing: 1-inch polyester

Constant-tension device: None

Tie-down Strap

Hardware: Die-cast zinc cam

Webbing: 1-inch polypropylene

Constant-tension device: None

Strap with Hook Ends

Hardware: Zamak-5 alloy cam with brass roller, gated steel hook Webbing: 1-inch polypropylene

Constant-tension device: None

Tie-down Strap

Hardware: Steel cam, gated steel hook Webbing: 1-inch polyester

Constant-tension device: Steel spring Advertised strength (pounds)

OVERLAND RATINGS

Acclerated corrosion test

Zinc-plated hardware, significant corrosion, ratchet difficult to release under load

Minor visible corrosion, reduced the retracting force of the strap Minor

Minor visible corrosion (cam and carabiner); significant corrosion (steel spring inside sheath), no detectable impact on performance

Algeria

By Andrea Kaucká and René Bauer

Land of the whispering desert.

IT’S HARD TO DESCRIBE THE FEELINGS THAT OVERTAKE me when traveling through the desert, yet I know I must go back into the Sahara every year because I want to experience them again. I don’t know what fuels this state of being. Is it the wind lightly caressing my skin like a lover? Or the fierce, unforgivable sun that makes me squint my eyes? Is it the immeasurable peace that comes over me or the ecstatic excitement of standing right in the middle of nowhere, in a place so unforgiving and unfathomable? I always try to delve deeper into my mind to discover what makes me return to this sea of sand over and over, and two things stand out: the endless freedom and the direct encounter with myself.

We explored Algeria this time, the biggest country in Africa, rich in scenery and culture. Northern Algeria surprised us with its lush, green mountains and beautiful coastline, dotted with ancient Roman cities and fascinating casbahs and medinas. To the south is the desert in full splendour, from Tassili n’Ajjer’s breathtaking rock formations and towering dunes to Timimoun’s ksours, ancient mud fortresses lined by palm gardens. It is a different world.

Our first encounter with the desert is a five-day hike with our Tuareg guides. It is strenuous but rewarding. On foot, we can soak up the atmosphere even better and fully understand what an ancient camel caravan would have felt like, plodding through the desert under the scorching sun. Our group doesn’t talk much during these walks—we are all deep in thought. That’s what the desert does to you; she holds up a mirror for your soul. In the evenings, around the campfire, we all become more social, and the air is filled with stories and legends that Boudjemaa, our guide, shares with us. And again, it feels unreal to sit in the middle of nowhere as the flames draw flickering, orange light upon our faces.

The Tuareg people have been around for thousands of years and are a proud tribe of warriors, perfectly adapted to life in the desert. Their mentality and culture revolve around the vastness of the region, and their proverbs clearly show their connection to these lands. One day, while walking alongside Boudjemaa, he shared an adage that immediately struck a chord and hasn’t left me since: “You know,” he said, “we Tuaregs say that you should write the good things on rock, because it will stay there forever.” Then he smiled, continuing, “However, the bad and evil things you should write into the sand because the wind will quickly take them away.” I smiled back in reply and kept walking through the ever-inspiring tide of sifting sand.

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) SUNGLASSES TRANSCEND CULTURAL BOUNDARIES. OUR STYLISH, PRACTICAL TOUAREG DRIVERS TOOK EXCELLENT CARE OF US.

THIS ROAD SIGN POINTS TO TWO COUNTRIES WITH EQUALLY NOTORIOUS REPUTATIONS. WE CHOSE TO ENTER THE DESERT CLOSER TO THE NIGER SIDE.

DUNE DRIVING CAN BE A RISKY AND ADRENALINE-FILLED ROLLERCOASTER RIDE. HOLD YOUR BREATH, AND HANG ON.

CAMELS HAVE BEEN AN ESSENTIAL PART OF DESERT LIFE FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS. PERFORMING THE ROLE THEY ARE BEST KNOWN FOR, THEY CARRIED OUR GEAR WITHOUT COMPLAINT.

(OPENING SPREAD) WE GOT USED TO THIS VIEW—A TOYOTA LAND CRUISER IN ITS NATURAL HABITAT. SAND, ROCKS, AND THE SCORCHING SUN WERE THE MAKINGS OF OUR EVERYDAY LIFE.

AS SEEN FROM THE COMFORT OF OUR MOTORIZED CHARIOTS, THE VASTNESS OF THE DESERT SEEMED TO SWALLOW US WHOLE.

(OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) SPECTACULAR SUNRISES SPURRED US ON OUR WAY EACH DAY.

TO WALK THE DESERT IS TO KNOW IT; WE IMMERSED OURSELVES IN ITS MAGIC FOR ABOUT 20-25 KILOMETERS EACH DAY.

THIS ROCK FORMATION PROVIDED A TELESCOPIC VIEW OF WHAT WAS TO COME.

TAGUELLA IS A HARDY AND DELICIOUS TOUAREG STAPLE; THE FLATBREAD IS BAKED IN THE COALS UNTIL HARD AND BROKEN INTO SMALL PIECES TO GO INTO A MEAT SAUCE.

A CAMEL SADDLE IS ONE OF THE TOUAREG’S MAIN TOOLS. SURPRISINGLY COMFORTABLE, IT ALLOWS ONE TO MOVE AS ONE WITH THE ANIMAL.

BOUDJEMAA WAS OUR DESERT GUIDE; HIS TOUAREG STORIES AND LORE KEPT US SPELLBOUND.

(OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) IT’S GOOD TO GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE, STRETCH YOUR LEGS, AND CONNECT WITH THE SAND.

TIN MERZOUGA WERE THE HIGHEST DUNES ON OUR TRIP, REQUIRING SIGNIFICANT EFFORT TO REACH THE SUMMIT IN TIME FOR SUNSET. THE VIEW, HOWEVER, WAS INSURMOUNTABLE.

LA VACHE QUI PLEURE (THE CRYING COW) IS A 7,000-YEAR-OLD PETROGLYPH GRACING A MONOLITH CLOSE TO DJANET IN THE SOUTH. IT’S SO ICONIC THAT IT EVEN MADE IT ONTO AN ALGERIAN BANKNOTE.

THE DESERT IS FULL OF FASCINATING REMNANTS FROM ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS, AND IT IS NOT UNUSUAL TO FIND GRINDING STONES AND POTTERY SHARDS.

ONE OF OUR TYPICAL CAMP SPOTS—SIMPLICITY IN MOTION.

SOLITUDE IS A GIFT FROM THE DESERT. SAVOR IT.

GUELTAS AND CANYONS ARE PLENTIFUL HERE. SOME HAVE WATER FOR THE NOMADS’ LIVESTOCK, AND SOME ARE BONE DRY, BUT ALL OFFER SHADE AND SHELTER.

RENÉ JOINS OUR TOUAREG GUIDES, ASSIMILATING THROUGH IMITATION.

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)

THE DESERT IS MORE THAN SAND AND DUNES; THIS TIME-SCULPTED CANYON DRAWS YOU INTO ITS EMBRACE.

A GIRL PAUSES TO REGROUP OUTSIDE A MOSQUE IN NORTHERN ALGERIA. THE PEOPLE WE MET WERE OPEN AND WELCOMING, EVEN INVITING THE WOMEN FROM OUR BAND TO HAVE A LOOK AT A MOSQUE.

EVEN AFTER OUR FIVE THOUSANDTH PETROGLYPH, WE FOUND THEM ENDLESSLY FASCINATING AND HAD NEVER SEEN ONE WITH SPIRALS BEFORE.

DJÉMILA, THE BEAUTIFUL ONE, IS ONE OF NORTH ALGERIA’S MANY ROMAN CITIES AND A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.

THIS INTACT MOSAIC FOUND IN ANOTHER ROMAN RUIN IS EXQUISITELY INTRICATE.

THE LIGHT DANCES AROUND THIS GENTLEMAN DEEP IN CONTEMPLATION AT THE EMIR ABDELKADER MOSQUE IN CONSTANTINE.

(OPPOSITE) A SLICE OF LIFE IN SILHOUETTE AT THE ABDELKADER MOSQUE.

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)

A KSAR IS A FORTIFIED VILLAGE WITH HOUSES AND ALLEYWAYS HUDDLED TOGETHER TO ESCAPE THE HARSH SUN. THIS TYPICAL DESERT FEATURE EVEN MADE AN APPEARANCE IN STAR WARS.

CEMETERIES AND BURIALS ARE QUITE DIFFERENT THAN IN THE WESTERN WORLD. A WATER JUG IS OFTEN ADDED TO A GRAVE BECAUSE ITS CONTENTS ARE PRECIOUS.

THE INSIDE OF A KSAR; THIS PARTICULAR ONE WAS USED FOR A WAYSTATION AND STORAGE ALONG A CARAVAN ROUTE WHERE MERCHANTS COULD REPLENISH STOCK OR OFFLOAD.

THE “SEA OF SAND” HAS ITS OWN DYNAMIC, AND RELIABLE CARS ARE NEEDED TO GO THROUGH IT, PREFERABLY NOT ALONE. THERE IS NOTHING AROUND AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE.

A selection of lightweight motorcycle helmets designed to make your riding experience better.

By Sean Gorman

Ride On

Theworld of helmets has evolved a long way since the leather head wraps people once wore. We are now in a time where the helmet not only provides a layer of safety but also forms a cocoon of warmth and weather protection like never before. Selecting the motorcycle helmet right for you is like picking a pair of shoes—it’s highly subjective. There are, however, some basic key features to zone in on when making your selection.

Make sure it’s DOT-approved and preferably Snell-approved, which may seem obvious, but it’s easy to find cheap foreign-made helmets labeled DOT, and I’m not convinced they are approved and tested. The rating becomes questionable when you look at details such as the thickness and robustness of the materials and the cheaply made buckles and plastic. When in doubt, stick with a reputable, proven brand that offers product support and is readily sourced. Doing so will also be helpful when you need a part, liner, or visor replaced, an inevitable reality for a piece of gear that is used hard.

Try a bunch of helmets on to determine which brands fit you. You’ll see descriptions of head shape and size and how they relate to fit online, but using someone else’s impression of shape isn’t always accurate. Case in point: my father has a very round head shape, and I am more of an oval. We often wear the same brand and model of helmet, and it fits us both. You can use the included foam pads to help customize fit and maximize comfort. Don’t buy a helmet if it doesn’t feel good in the store. If it is uncomfortable on day one, you’ll either not wear it enough to break in, or it will never improve.

The choice should be about function more than form. I’ve known people who selected a helmet based on looks only to have it perform horribly. If you live somewhere hot and need a breathable helmet, buy a model designed for that condition. If you live in the humid south and fog-

ging up is a major concern, get a helmet with a Pinlock visor. Start with what you need, and don’t get sidetracked by the new coyote tan model that looks the part.

Adventure (ADV) helmets have a style all their own and usually have a “beak” or visor to provide coverage from the sun, much like a hat. You’ll find an eye shield that can protect the eyes while traveling at speed, with many detents to help control fogging and airflow, plus a chin guard for added protection and safety. Typically, the manufacturer will provide the ability to easily remove those features, allowing you to ride with goggles instead of a shield, remove the visor for long days on the highway, or prevent neck strain by using a combination that works best for the environment of the day.

It is recommended that you replace your helmet every five years. The dirt and oils from use degrade the protective materials and slowly diminish performance. Since helmet technology has likely advanced since you last bought one, it’s the perfect time to upgrade. Cleaning the removable liners and keeping the oils from your body off the foams will also go a long way to preserving the life of a helmet.

When a helmet fits properly, you won’t even know it’s on. All of the models here have good support in the US, fit multiple head shapes, and weigh between 3 and 4 pounds. Purchasing a helmet with replaceable visors and liners prolongs use and maximizes your investment. Each model excels in its own niche, with various price points and features to make your riding hours more enjoyable. Hopefully, you’ll never actually need one to save your skull. It is recommended that you replace your helmet every five years. The dirt and oils from use degrade the protective materials and slowly diminish performance.

While it might not look like an ADV motorcycle helmet, after using it for a few weeks in the wet spring in Virginia, I fell in love with it. We often think we need a visor and a dirt-bike style to support adventure riding, but this helmet worked well in many different situations.

The Bluetooth sound system built into the Impulse sets the benchmark; the intercom’s clarity and quality are fantastic. While I’ve used many Sena communicators in the past, it’s surprising how much better an integrated unit performs. You can hear the bass instead of just the high-pitched tones of communications days past, and it’s an asset to be able to speak on the phone if needed.

The Impulse is highly adjustable, with a ratcheting chin strap retainer and a fold-down sunshade. The modular system worked well and was easy to manipulate with gloves, while the Pinlock system works as advertised to keep fogging to a minimum. The liner is soft and easily cleaned, and the helmet is well insulated with an overall larger size, which I suspect is to help with sound quality; the comfort level ranks high. Large buttons make sound and volume control a cinch, and you can even activate a pulsing LED red light on the rear of the Impulse for increased visibility if using the app control on your phone. Despite being one of the heaviest helmets in the test (at 3.87 pounds, second only to the Shoei Hornet X2), this is the one I’d choose to wear on a cross-country ride across the US.

$599 | SENA.COM

SHOEI

HORNET X2

Spending a week in southern Colorado on dirt and pavement gave me a good chance to test the X2. Shoei is one of the world’s premier motorcycle helmet makers, and it’s evident in the build quality. There are no sharp edges or molding marks, and it’s got all the classic traits of an ADV helmet. I didn’t find any build problems or imperfections, and couldn’t even find a loose thread.

Made in Japan, you can feel the helmet’s engineering while wearing it. The vents work as intended, the beak visor has excellent airflow, even at high speeds, and the interior is plush. The visor is optically flawless, and the noise level is so very low. Combine that with a proven safety track record, and it’s also one of the safest helmets on the road. I found the Hornet to be comfortable with minimal neck strain. Airflow was optimal on 100°F days, and with a bit of speed, the ventilation really kicked in. Combined with a Pinlock visor, you’ll keep fogging under control. This is the heaviest helmet (3.99 pounds) in the test, but due to the weight distribution, it feels like one of the lightest. You can’t go wrong with the Hornet X2.

$680 | SHOEI-HELMETS.COM

ARAI

Arai is another Japanese hand-built helmet manufacturer and is stride for stride with Shoei. You’ll find superlative build quality and extremely functional design elements. Arai has updated the classic XD helmets to make them more comfortable and lighter. When comparing the XD-4 to the XD-3 I rode with for five years, I noticed a significant sound decrease from the environment and better ventilation.

The Pinlock visor and easy communication attachment points make for a professional-grade helmet. Its lightweight construction is easy on the neck muscles, and when riding with it for a week in non-stop rain in the Pacific Northwest, I found that it protected me well from the elements. Fogging was a non-issue aided by vents built into the face shield.

The helmet’s head vents could be bigger to ensure more airflow on hot days, and their function is further impeded if your bike has a windshield. If you primarily ride in cold climates, it would, of course, be warmer on those cool, crisp fall days. Additionally, the face shield has the most acute curve of all the helmets reviewed, which creates two issues: a bit of distracting optical distortion (especially with side glare), and installing a Pinlock visor is harder to get right. It’s not impossible by any means, but it might take more attempts to get a good seal. You’ll have to move fast on this one as it is already discontinued, with the XD-5 next in line.

$650 | ARAIAMERICAS.COM

BELL

MX-9 ADVENTURE

Bell is a well-known helmet manufacturer that specializes in making affordable and safe helmets for motorsports. The MX-9 is a testament to years of helmet design and experience. By far the least expensive helmet in the group, it performed very well. With the lower price point, you lose Pinlock capability, noise reduction, and optical clarity but gain the multi-directional impact protection system (MIPS) to improve safety. A photochromatic face shield is sold separately and would likely be a good addition.

I found the increased noise on long rides fatiguing (mitigated by earplugs), and the visor tends to fog on humid days, requiring it to be slightly open to maintain visibility. You’ll find sharper edges and rubber trim to hide where the MX-9 was cut from the mold. It feels much more like a dirt bike helmet, and the chin bar is much further from the mouth than the others in the segment. Venting is always open on the head portion, and I would prefer more versatility. At highway speeds, the MX-9 was loud, and I experienced a lot of buffeting from the visor. On trails going 15-20 mph, the MX-9 felt much more at home. If budget is a concern, this would be a great first helmet.

$230 | BELLHELMETS.COM

TOURATECH

AVENTURO TRAVELLER CARBON

This modular carbon fiber helmet exudes quality.Touratech outsourced the production of the helmet to Nexx Helmets, but it’s not just a rebranded helmet; Touratech’s experience in the adventure motorcycling space clearly shows through in the Aventuro’s design and practicality.

Tested at both highway speeds and long days on the dirt, I liked how well the Aventuro ventilated, and with a Pinlock visor, it resisted fogging even on the most humid days. I installed a SENA wireless communication system that seamlessly incorporated into the helmet, and with the Aventuro’s low noise characteristics, it was easy to listen to music and talk. I like the integrated dark eye shades (no more wearing sunglasses under the shield), and the locking chin bar is easy to use; the substantial detent makes it easy to know if it’s locked while wearing gloves. The carbon option provides about a half-pound weight savings over the traditional version and is well worth the additional cost ($150).

The Aventuro is a pricey option but justifiably so, and it’s intended for use on long overland motorcycle trips. If you’ve ridden with a modular helmet before, it’s hard to go back to a traditional solid-face helmet. Being able to flip off the chin guard and fuel the bike makes the days go quicker, and border crossings get easier than when the guards can see your face. The Aventuro is also already on closeout but still available from Touratech at the time of writing.

$649 | TOURATECH.COM

KLIM

KRIOS PRO

Klim has become one of the premier motorcycle gear manufacturers for adventure riders, known for using technologically innovative designs and materials. The first thing you’ll notice when picking up the Krios Pro is how unbelievably lightweight it feels. The 3-pound weight is achieved by utilizing hand-laid carbon fiber shells and introducing Koroyd impact material (which resembles a honeycomb structure of pliable plastic) instead of the traditional expanded foams used in helmets; the Krios Pro is the first ADV-specific DOT helmet in North America to use Koroyd. The Krios Pro has Transitions photochromatic and clear plastic lenses, and lens shape and size are the best of all the helmets tested.

The downside to having a large lens and a lightweight Koroyd interior is the noise; it’s one of the loudest helmets I’ve ridden with. The shell seems a bit bigger than the other similar-sized helmets, but it’s not overly cumbersome. The ventilation is easy to adjust with gloves, and the open liner provides ample airflow, minimizing head strain from oncoming wind. With the Koroyd material, you especially feel the effect of cold air jets moving around the head. If you plan on riding in hot weather for long periods, the Krios Pro would be a good choice.

The Krios Pro’s positive attributes outweigh the fatigue induced by increased noise (mitigated by earplugs), and I look forward to more desert and hot weather testing with it.

$750 | KLIM.COM

EDITOR’S NOTE See the Klim Krios Pro field-tested review by Lisa Morris on page 24 for another author’s take.

Crossing Continents: Kenya

By Scott Brady

The shadows of the Jade Sea.

Meeting Aabid was one of the highlights of the trip, as was the adventure to Mount Kenya. | Opening spread: It is impressive to drive along one of the great Rift Valley Lakes, the expanse of water stretching to the horizon.

Theradio cracked to life, and Aabid’s voice trembled in urgency: “There are bandits on this road, and they hit a vehicle just 15 minutes ahead of us.” We had left the last bastions of civilization in Maralal, topping off our main and auxiliary fuel tanks for the journey into the semi-autonomous region of Turkana. The drought had persisted for months, and the inhabitants had become restless and desperate.

Aabid tightened the convoy, and both Grenadiers churned through the corrugations and dust at a steady clip, JJ surveying the scene as we pressed forward to the next military checkpoint. We had gone from relaxed and laughing as we burned through another podcast to high alert. While we had many solutions to banditry up our sleeves, none were preferable to vigilance, keeping moving, and avoiding conflict altogether. JJ and I reverted to our training, yet the uncertain still gnawed at our guts, my hands gripping the wheel tighter and counting down the kilometers to safety. But how did we get here? It all started a few months earlier in the Serengeti of Tanzania.

After crossing the Serengeti (see “Crossing Continents: Tanzania,” Winter 2024), Kenya stretched out before us, Lake Victoria to the west and the grasslands of the Maasai Mara extending to the north. Tavia and I had relished the remoteness and slower pace of following the Great Migration, but the equator called, and Mount Kenya loomed on our horizon.

Despite my constant pull toward new and distant destinations, I have increasingly pursued the familiar. That can be as simple as a camper with all my things, including my favorite pillow; the comfort of my partner or friends along for the journey; or laughter, and with it, the creation of new memories bringing me joy. It can also be a sense of place that comes from returning to a location you have loved before and seeing how it has changed, revisiting a favorite lodge, or seeing the barista at your regular coffee shop who remembers your order. Such a place is Nanyuki in Kenya, a traveler’s outpost much like Maun in Botswana, Alice Springs in Australia, or the Mos Eisley cantina on Tatooine filled with all manner of ilk, rustlers, entrepreneurs, drifters, pilots, and travelers.

My first memory of Nanyuki came in 2016 when Archaeology Senior Editor Bryon Bass and other friends landed in a Cessna Caravan on the dirt airstrip south of town. Much like Han Solo, Jammie Roberts strolled out to meet us, our G-Wagons arranged for departure. One striking memory from that first trip was watching the sunset over Mount Kenya, one of Africa’s most beautiful mountains, its peak rising 17,057 feet from the high plateau below. For that trip, my destination was Uganda, but the mountain was burned in my memory—I had to return.

Now driving the Grenadier (arguably the modern evolution of the classic G-Class and Defender), Tavia and I rolled into Nanyuki, excited to cross the equator and explore the extinct volcano. The plan was to connect with a friend and fellow Grenadier driver, Aabid Manji, from Nairobi. Aabid is not only a first-class human, he was also the very first Grenadier customer

in Africa, having taken delivery of his unit months before other reservation holders. We now had a convoy and planned to meet on the slopes of Mount Kenya to undertake one of our most difficult routes yet—driving to Lake Ellis at over 10,000 feet by a road that had been unused for several years.

As good overlanders do, Aabid and I established an approximate meeting time at a definite waypoint. Through good fortune, we arrived within a short time frame of each other and exchanged enthusiastic handshakes and anticipation for the route ahead. We were at the Themwe gate, which was very locked, with no park official to be found. As is common in Africa, a crowd slowly formed, and Aabid broke into an impressive exchange of Swahili before one of the onlookers said, “I have the key.” After a few phone calls and approvals, we were on the track, with a stern warning that the road was blocked, washed out, and otherwise impassable. The gate guard confidently said he would see us again soon, but that foreboding was exactly what we hoped for: challenge accepted.

After the downed tree, all other vehicle tracks had stopped, save for a few motorcycle ruts. It had been years since a 4WD had made it this far.

The road started easily enough, quickly devolving into an unmaintained low-range track. We had received permission to drive a trail into Mount Kenya National Park where no one goes—a route filled with elephants, ungulates, hyenas, and leopards. I was abuzz with excitement, all my overlander dreams unfolding in real life. Then, we came across the first downed tree.

Fortunately, the track was once a properly engineered dirt road, so it was wide in places, and most of the big trees had been cut back from the edge of the trail, including proper drainage ditches. The fallen tree was so big that it would be nearly impossible to cut or otherwise winch out of the way, but there was barely enough room to sneak past it in the ditch. I went through first, the Grenadier articulating to its limit and the stock allterrains hunting for traction despite the center and rear differentials locked. The front tire lifted and then settled at the top of the berm, providing just enough traction to continue moving forward. Now fully sideways in the ditch, the clinometer hit 25 degrees, I was pressed against the door, and Tavia was nearly dangling in her seatbelt. Still, the plan worked, and we snuck past the gnarled log without damage. Aabid was next, benefitting from larger tires and a mud pattern but struggling from a higher center of gravity and increased weight. He locked the center differential (spin), then the rear differential (spin), until the front differential allowed him to claw through the ditch and onto the slope. He was in the right spot, but the Grenadier continued to slide toward the broken log, right at the driver’s door. The tires finally held, and Aabid squeezed past. We had cleared the first level, though I knew the big boss was still waiting—they always are.

After the downed tree, all other vehicle tracks had stopped, save for a few motorcycle ruts. It had been years since a 4WD

Clockwise from top left: Rain pummeled the mountain, and the creeks increased their depths. | What a privilege to camp at 10,000 feet within a national park—we were the only ones there. | Tavia needed to learn mud driving quickly, with the road steadily deteriorating from the constant rain. | During a side journey to the Indian Ocean, we encountered people of numerous tribes, several in traditional dress. | It is important to keep your wits about you when walking around Tsavo, known for its man-eaters. | Opposite: In Samburu, I obtained permission to take a few photos of the local artisans.

had made it this far. We continued, navigating bypasses around even larger trees and spotting over roots and ruts. Being an effective spotter is one of the great joys of overlanding, but I have never needed to look over my shoulder so often on any trail. What was that branch cracking? Were the leaves crunching the wind or a warning of something more dangerous? If there were hyenas or leopards around us, we never saw them.

For hours, we continued up the slope of Mount Kenya, sometimes passing abandoned buildings or derelict infrastructure. One beautiful campsite had not seen campers in what looked like a decade. It was getting later in the day, and my calculations were not looking promising. Our progress should have been faster, but our path had many obstacles. We were now driving on a trail completely overrun with tall grass as the final boss came into view.

We stood around and talked, with no cell coverage to distract us. It was such an elemental moment of simplicity, doing as humans had done for eons, and we were thoroughly content.

Tavia brought the Grenadier to a stop before a massive tangle of fallen trees, vines, brush, and branches. There was no way under or around, so we would need to cut and clear our way through. Aabid and I both had summit fever, so we talked at length about a strategy and negotiated with ourselves about the limited light remaining and possible solutions. There was no doubt we could get through, but it would be well after dark, and we had no idea what lay beyond. We had not even encountered the “washout” yet. While chatting, I asked Aabid what his most important goal of the trip was, to which he responded, “I want to make it to the lake and camp at 10,000 feet.” That cemented our strategy, and we turned around to take the main route to the lake.

Getting back down the track was much easier, and in a few hours, we were back at the locked gate, looking sheepishly at the deservedly smug gate guard. We had a time crunch to arrive at the other track before 5:00 p.m. when they closed the road. In the spirit of “product testing,” we made haste for the other gate and rolled up with 10 minutes to spare. We were certain the main track would be easier, but it was a different challenge with deep ruts and steep cross-axle climbs. Once above the tree line, we stayed in 4L; several times, the center and rear differential locks were required. On one tight switchback, Aabid slid downslope sideways, but with some patience, we got him positioned for the climb again. The consequences of failure were significant because we were hours away from help and further still from definitive care.

Slow and steady, the Grenadiers climbed the track and arrived at the overlook of the lake. It was just as I had hoped, shrouded in clouds as the rain started to fall. The wind opened small gaps in the virga to expose the flanks of the extinct volcano. It was also the coldest I had been since leaving South Africa, even after donning every layer and jacket I had in the vehicle. We deployed Aabid’s awning and started a fire, soon grilling pounds of ribeye he purchased from the butcher in Nairobi. We stood around and talked, with no cell coverage to distract us, carrying on and laughing, talking about vehicles, travel, and politics. It was such an elemental

moment of simplicity, doing as humans had done for eons, and we were thoroughly content.

LAKE TURKANA

I had left the Grenadier in Kenya for a few months through the holidays, but it was time to continue north, the route encouraged by Aabid and my friend JJ, who works for the state department. We had completed a successful journey to the Kenyan coast, including Tsavo. The goal was to take two vehicles up the eastern route along Lake Turkana, a rarely visited track notorious for banditry, limited opportunities to resupply, and abusive road conditions. Fortunately, we were all in for such tomfoolery and met outside Nairobi for the long drive north.

The first day was mostly spent navigating traffic, road closures, and checkpoints, with one roadblock so backed up that we decided to take a muddy two-track to avoid the delay, with a few brave locals following suit. It never ceases to amaze me where momentum will carry a Toyota Corolla. Our destination was an inexpensive, well-regarded lodge in Maralal, complete with antelope, monkeys,

Aabid proved to be a capable adventurer and a great addition to the team. This is how lifelong friendships begin.

and a big grill for Aabid, the carnivore culinarian. For several reasons, Aabid only eats meat (and has for much longer than the current social media carnivore phase), which is in direct conflict with my no longer having a gallbladder. The steak was delicious but wrecked me and left me struggling the next morning. Fortunately, JJ did not take much arm twisting to have him drive the Grenadier. Samburu was also our last stop for quality fuel and provisions, so we added 40 liters of petrol to the rack of my wagon and the same in diesel to the top of his. Curiously, we attained a similar mileage between the two drivetrains, likely reflecting his heavier weight and much larger mud-terrain tires.

Turning north toward Baragoi, we knew hijacking was a problem, so our vigilance was up but not overshadowing. Much like in the American Old West, the banditry stemmed from cattle rustling caused by lack of water, originally from overgrazing. The communities try to survive and consider cattle on their lands subject to confiscation. With time, that extended to vehicles, tourists, and even police transports. When there isn’t enough water to go around, everything is fair game.

Despite the threat, we bantered on the radio and allowed some distance to build between the vehicles to manage the dust as the rough road combined embedded rock, deep bull dust, and relentless corrugations. I aired down, then a few miles later, aired down again. Even 17 psi didn’t dampen the onslaught. Then the fateful call came through: the proprietors of the lodge had a report of a bandit attack on the road we were on at approximately our location. It had likely occurred within 15-20 minutes of our passing. Our small convoy might have given them pause, or the unfamiliarity of the Grenadier profile caused them to hesitate. Either way, we got lucky, though it did cast a gloom over the team.

We shifted to a close-column convoy, which involves two or three car lengths, offset a car width to the driver’s side for visibility and to reduce rock chips. Radio communications became more serious, and we worked hard to warn the other driver of oncoming hazards. There have not been too many times I have needed to drive like this outside of my military or government service, the most recent on the other side of Lake Turkana in 2016 and a few years prior in Siberia, Russia. It was a big relief when we finally stopped at the military checkpoint north of the area of concern. JJ took a few minutes to talk with the unit on duty and helped us develop a good plan. Based on the feedback, it seemed okay to proceed northward.

The checkpoint was positioned at a high choke point in the mountains, creating a natural boundary between the grasslands to the south and the arid lands around the lake. Stark is an understatement as the land is nearly devoid of vegetation outside the dry washes; the local population lives in domed structures reminiscent of the planet Peridea of Star

Wars lore. The huts were covered in all manner of tarps, cardboard, and tin. The villages were mostly huddled along the shoreline, as massive wind turbines collected power on the hillsides that the local population would never get to use.

Driving along the shore of Lake Turkana, we were overwhelmed by its size. It is the world’s largest permanent desert lake and largest alkaline lake. It extends to Ethiopia in the north and nearly touches the border with Sudan. At one point, the lake was so large that it outflowed to the Nile and contained numerous fish species and an estimated 14,000 crocodiles. From my view, it appeared to be a giant at rest, with not a single ship visible and the South Island jutting up from its depths. The afternoon heat was stifling, and the water’s edge continued to a mirage across the shoreline, rippling in the distance. There was almost no vehicle traffic, and the route was mostly unimproved, crossing in and out of valleys, dry washes, and up rocky slopes. The most impressive section paralleled the water, spray hitting the windscreen from robust gusts across the surface. It was beautiful in its scale and uninhabitability. I would be hard-pressed to survive a few days along its shores.

Stark is an understatement as the land is nearly devoid of vegetation outside the dry washes.

After driving the entire day in low range without seeing a permanent structure, Loiyangalani rose from the shoreline, a hub of community, commerce, and shade. The tribes know the village as the place of many trees in the native Samburu tongue. True to the moniker, palms and acacia dot the landscape, and a long, muddy peninsula juts out into the lake, lined with buildings mostly abandoned due to rising water levels. This region is also famous for early hominin fossils discovered by Kamoya Kimeu, Mary Leakey, and others, along with our discoveries with the aforementioned Dr. Bryon Bass when we explored the western slopes of the lake in 2016 (“Cradle of Adventure,” Spring 2017).

The shadows of the trees and foothills stretched toward the water, the sun dipping low to dwell upon the western shore. Everything adopted a golden hue, and with it, the heat of the day slowly drifted away on the gusts of wind across the lake. We drove through the village, windows down, waving at the locals whose ancestors have tended, fished, and cultivated these lands for millennia. We stopped the vehicles at the water’s edge and paused for a moment, breathing in the adventures of the past months and fighting the temptation of contemplating tomorrow’s challenges. Men from the village stood to watch the sunset with us, shaking our hands, instinctively knowing what had drawn us here. Then, in a moment, the sun kissed the Jade Sea; the shadows faded into memory and, along with it, the setting of another traveler’s tale.

Braai Essentials

A master of the art of barbeque shares his favorite gear of the trade.

By Graeme Bell

Cookingover an open fire and coals has been an essential element of human evolution ever since Homo erectus earned the ability to harness and manage fire. Sitting beside the flames and grilling a meal is something that we, as overland travelers, do more than most modern humans, and it is an important part of our traveling experience. As my wife, Luisa, and I are South African, a braai (pronounced “bry,” like dry with a b) is more than just a way to cook food; it is a way of life— one we have had the pleasure to discover and enjoy on a nearglobal level.

South Americans are as addicted as we are to grilling meats over coals, but they call it asado, or churrasco in Brazil. Asado is a relatively simple affair. Coals are prepared, and meats such as lomo steak, short ribs, flank steak, and blood sausage are grilled long and slow, with coarse salt as the predominant seasoning. After an hour or two, the meat will be ready and served with grilled vegetables, a green salad, and chimichurri. Generally, the grill used can be lowered and raised as per the heat needed, and the fuel used is either hard dry wood (desert wood is best for a braai or asado), lump coal, or a combination of the two, depending on the location.

In Brazil, churrasco is similar to asado but different. The meats are usually skewered on long espetos and prepared on a grill with multiple levels, as Brazilians like to eat in stages. The lowest skewer will consist of chicken hearts, the skewer above chicken thighs and drumsticks, above that a skewer of sausages, and then the main event, picanha steak. As the steak slowly grills, the juices drip onto the meats below, which are removed when done and served on large wooden breadboards adorned

with a pile of medium coarse salt and a pile of farofa (a side dish made with toasted manioc flour) into which the meat is dipped before being consumed.

The South African braai is a national obsession, and every macho man (and occasional woman) considers themselves a master with their tailored recipes, techniques, and secrets. A braai is the actual barbeque in which the fire is made, the act of grilling meats, and the name of the event. Meat staples are lamb chops, boerewors (a long sausage), rump, fillet, sirloin, porterhouse, T-bone, rib-eye, brisket, and short rib. A fire is prepared with kameeldoorn or rooikrans wood (or charcoal if need be), and just when a visitor thinks the fire is ready for cooking, more wood will be added. And then again. There is a saying in South Africa, “Ons gan nou nou braai” (we will braai now now, soon), but nou nou could be an hour or three, depending on the master. Afrikaners will usually insist on a serving of pap and sous (a polenta-type stiff porridge with a tomato gravy), while English South Africans will usually avoid the pap and sous, and Mrs. English South African (who does all the actual meal preparation) will prepare a potato bake, garlic bread, and a salad.

Braais on the road across continents can be challenging as we have to make do with small, portable grills, whatever wood or charcoal we can source, and whichever suitable meat is available. The only consistent variables are the braii essentials we carry wherever we go. But we are always experimenting with new gear. Here are items, new and old, that we have had the pleasure of testing out as we perfect our craft. Most of the products are premium, with premium prices, but quality is what we are after, and longevity is the true economy.

MINIMAX

BIG GREEN EGG

If you have a grilling or smoking obsession, the MiniMax should be on your birthday list. It features a 13-inch stainless steel cooking grid, providing ample cooking space for a family. Built from highquality ceramic, it comes with a sturdy carrier and uses very little fuel. The MiniMax may be compact, but it is still heavy; at 76 pounds, it is best suited for those with larger rigs. We have been impressed by the tender, delicious, smoked, and grilled meats it produces.

$700 | BIGGREENEGG.COM

A.W.O.L.

SLIDING STANDARG GRID

If you’re looking for a freestanding flatpack grill that takes up limited space and allows you to cook various meats at different temperatures without having to balance your grill on rocks— then this is it. Its unique U-stand distinguishes it from other grids, locking in place at any desired height and angle. The grid can rotate and swivel 360 degrees on the U-stand, making it easier on your wrists when grilling a large rack of ribs or searing a steak over open flames.

$290/DOUBLE, $190/SINGLE | G4O.CA

TEMBOTUSK

ULTIMATE SKOTTLE GRILL KIT

The skottle is a South African cooking tool, similar to a large wok, making it ideal for camp breakfasts, tacos, stir-frying, or searing a steak—let your imagination run wild. The Ultimate kit includes a pre-seasoned skottle grill with adjustable legs, a Kovea burner, gas adapter, and carry bag. It also features a stainless steel lid, steam tray, wind guard, bamboo leg table, BuzzyWaxx beeswax tin, wooden spatula, and cast-iron plastic scraper. We use it to cook garlic-buttered steak bites with roasted potatoes—always a big hit.

$595 | TEMBOTUSK.COM

QUICK PITCH

BARBE

The Quick-Barbe is a tough-as-nails, stainless-steel barbecue designed for easy and quick setup. It can be pitched in under a minute, stands 12 inches high, and includes a grill, carry bag, and wind deflector. The unit is designed to be used in areas where ground fires are not allowed and can be stored in a standard ammo box for convenience. We have used our Quick-Barbe twice a week for the last few years, and it is still in excellent condition.

$399 | QUICKPITCHNORTHAMERICA.COM

SNOW

PEAK

TAKIBI ESSENTIALS SET

I love this well-designed and aesthetically pleasing fire set. It consists of a toolset (fire tongs, a poker, and shovel) for managing the fire in a sleek but durable canvas carry case. The accompanying leather fireside gloves have removable inners for safety and added dexterity and work well for moving hot coals and logs. There is a folding torch for easy ignition. Duality of use is important, and this kit will serve for many years and can be used on the road and at home.

$233 | SNOWPEAK.COM

GERBER

COMPLEAT COOK SET

The Gerber Compleat is a 16-piece camping cookware set designed for full-size cooking outdoors. It includes a stainlesssteel sauté pan, stock pot, detachable handles, slim and basting dome lids, plates, bowls, and a mixing bowl. The set nests together for compact storage and is suitable for induction, electric, ceramic cooktops, and open-flame cooking. We love the lids: the slim lid is a strainer, and the basting lid has a steaming effect. The set is durable, and the pot and pan can be used directly over the campfire.

$200 | GERBERGEAR.COM

BENCHMADE

CUSTOM THREE-PIECE KNIFE SET

This Benchmade knife set may be expensive, but it’s built to last a lifetime. The set includes a chef’s knife, utility knife, and paring knife, all crafted from high-grade steel with handles available in G10, carbon fiber, or Richlite. These ambidextrous knives hold a keen edge, sharpen easily, and are lightweight. LifeSharp services (cleaning, oiling, re-sharpening) are included and free for the life of the knife, but after nearly a year of use, we’ve found our set to still be sharper than a mother-in-law’s tongue.

$1,110 | BENCHMADE.COM

TOADFISH

SHRIMP CLEANER

Throwing some shrimp or prawns on the grill is a treat when exploring the coast. Prep, however, is usually a long and messy process. The Toadfish is designed to peel, devein, and butterfly shrimp in one smooth motion. Remove the head, insert the deveiner under the shell along its back, push toward the tail while lifting, and voilà, it’s ready for the skillet. The ergonomic handle provides a comfortable grip, making it easy for beginners and experienced cooks to use. Beware, this cleaner is sharp.

$28 | TOADFISH.COM

OMNIA

SWEDEN STOVETOP OVEN

If you love baking while overlanding, the Omnia is the ultimate addition to your kitchenware—any excuse to turf that bulky oven. It’s a portable stovetop oven that uses an external heat source to bake, heat, or cook food. The Omnia is versatile and can handle various cooking tasks similar to a conventional oven, making it ideal for use on cooktops during camping or boating. I always prepare cornbread, our favorite braai accompaniment, in it. The Omnia is lightweight, easy to clean, and versatile.

$80 | BUYOMNIAUSA.COM

DOMETIC

GO COMPACT CAMP TABLE

We love most things designed by Dometic—their designs are stylish, modern, and minimalistic, particularly appealing to the savvy overlander. This compact camp table features an attractive bamboo tabletop and sturdy aluminum legs, offering a solid yet lightweight design. It adjusts to three different heights, making it versatile for use as a coffee, kids’, or dining table, and it comfortably seats four adults. It folds down for easy transport and storage and, for an additional cost, comes with a matching heavy-duty carry bag.

$200 | DOMETIC.COM

SNOW PEAK

CAST IRON SANDWICH SKILLET

Snow Peak’s cast-iron skillet is a multipurpose cooking tool designed for outdoor use. It features two sides, each of which can be used independently or locked together as a press for making toasted cheese and bacon sandwiches, one of our staples. One skillet has a raised edge for searing with grill marks, while the other offers a smooth surface. Prepare roasted vegetables on one side for your vegetarian friends while cooking a thick, juicy steak on the other. Made from ductile cast iron, these skillets are durable but heavy.

$357 | SNOWPEAK.COM

STŌD GEAR CO

WOODGAITER

The WoodGaiter is a versatile firewood carrier and utility mat that can transport over two bundles of firewood, securing them during transit and preventing debris spillage. As we drive an old Land Rover, the WoodGaiter is often pulled into service as a throw mat on dusty roads when the ding becomes a clunk and is later cleaned after being used as a shower floor. Made from heavy-duty, vinyl-coated, marine-grade polyester tarp material, it’s designed to protect both your vehicle and firewood, allowing for efficient handling and storage.

$146 | STODGEAR.COM

GRÄNSFORS BRUK

SMALL FOREST AXE

This small forest axe has been our constant and reliable companion since Christmas 2016. With a 19-inch handle and a 1.5-pound head, it offers a balance of power and precision, making it suitable for various outdoor tasks, such as limbing and felling small trees; it’s equally efficient for chopping firewood and kindling. Hand-forged in Sweden of durable steel, it holds a razor-sharp edge and has a beautiful leather sheath. This high-quality axe has inspired many adults (and supervised children) to enjoy chopping wood while overlanding.

$185 | GRANSFORSBRUK.COM

SEE OVERLAND CHEF ON PAGE 124 FOR A CHIMICHURRI STEAK SANDWICH RECIPE—A PERFECT EXCUSE TO USE YOUR BRAII SKILLS AND EQUIPMENT.

Nod to the Nordic

High-quality winter gear straight from the North Atlantic.

By Ashley Giordano

Photography by Richard Giordano

Polar nights, deep fjords, the Arctic tundra, midnight sun, and boreal forests filled with silver birch and lichen form the Nordic playground, where people pride themselves on spending time outdoors in all seasons. The culturally learned rhythm of frilufstliv or free-air life aptly sums up the Nordic community’s connection with nature. Coined by Norwegian playwright and poet Henrik Ibsen, the term (pronounced free-looft-sleeve) is widely understood throughout Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Iceland, as well as the Faroe Islands, Greenland, and Åland, as the freedom we feel in nature, a spiritual connectedness with the landscape.

The feeling of intersectionality with nature and the desire to spend time outdoors,

even when frightful, is reflected in the outdoor gear and sustainability practices established by Nordic brands. Prioritizing long-lasting equipment and clothing, many Nordic companies emphasize repair and recycling programs, such as Norrøna’s RE initiatives and Helly Hansen’s commitment to using recycled and responsible materials, including wool, cotton, and down. Gear also has to be able to stand up to forays into harsh and unpopulated wilderness. I’ve always viewed Nordic outerwear as superior because it comes from the North. So, I put some items to the test. After all, as the Norwegians say, “Det finnes ikke dårlig vær, bare dårlige klær.” Or, as we would say, “There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.”

HELLY HANSEN

ADORE HELLY TECH PARKA

While Helly Hansen’s Adore parka was designed for urban winter life, its high windproof, waterproof, and durability rankings lend well to the overland traveler whose sights are set on cold-weather travel. A parka should provide as much coverage as possible while leaving room for movement. Winter travel often requires scraping windshields and roofs of ice and snow, and I’ve found that long jackets can impede quick movements like a tight skirt. Fortunately, the Bluesign-certified Adore strikes a good balance as the jacket continues well after the zipper ends and is secured with a button at the bottom of the hem.

Winter weather can vary greatly depending on climate, so I appreciate that the Adore parka offers highly waterproof protection (the shell and lining are 100 percent polyamide) with recycled polyester synthet-

ic insulation to keep you warm, whether in a damp or dry cold. I was pleased with the coziness of this jacket and its generously sized flannel-lined pockets during a cold snap in Bozeman, Montana, that neared -31°F. The fold-up reflective strips along the cuffs add a thoughtful touch and would be useful during dark, chilly mornings and evenings.

It’s hard to find fault with the Adore parka, but if pressed, the hood could be slightly more generous in front as it leaves the forehead exposed without a beanie or toque. Overall, though, I’m quite happy to have Helly Hansen’s Adore parka as part of my winter kit—hopefully, for decades to come.

$400 | HELLYHANSEN.COM

STELLAR EQUIPMENT

MID JACKET 2.0

Fredrik Dahl and John Crawford-Currie founded the Swedish-based, direct-toconsumer brand Stellar Equipment. With significant product design and development experience with international brands like Peak Performance and The North Face, Dahl and Crawford-Currie have found success with Stellar’s top-selling products, many of which have remained unchanged for nearly a decade. Their 2.0 versions were reformulated only after receiving feedback from thousands of users, and the Mid Jacket 2.0 is one of those products.

As soon as I zipped up the Mid Jacket 2.0, it felt like I had joined an Olympic cross-country ski team. The jacket is streamlined with intentionally placed branding, two zippered hand pockets, a high collar with a chin guard triangle, and thumb holes. Made from 55 percent recycled fibers,

FJÄLLRÄVEN

ABISKO WINTER STRETCH TROUSERS

Featuring a brushed interior lining and a double-weave, four-way stretch fabric, Fjällräven’s Abisko soft-shell trousers are suitable for the cold. Made from a recycled polyamide, polyester, and elastane blend from plastic PET bottles, the pants are produced without PFAS, adhering to the company’s long-term sustainability goals. They are also soft, warm, and stretchy (thanks to articulated knees and an elasticated waist)— exactly what you want in good cold-weather pants.

I’m a fan of the details: two zippered pockets and one handy one on the leg, adjustable ankle cuffs with cinches to adjust the pants to your choice of footwear or sock thickness (or to keep out the snow), and a high waist to prevent chilly drafts and

maintain that stylish look. Thankfully, the Abisko trousers also feature belt loops, as I needed a bit of a cinch. They also work well as a shell worn over leggings or a base layer if an extra bit of warmth is warranted and the size allows for it.

I put these to the test during wintertime in interior British Columbia, Canada, donning the pants on walks through the woods and windy lakeside strolls filled with swirling snow. They also wear well during early spring or fall mornings at camp, where I wasn’t afraid to rough them up a bit. Overall, Fjällräven’s Abisko winter stretch trousers deliver as promised.

$275 | FJÄLLRÄVEN.COM

Stellar’s jacket is layerable, comfortable, and very warm. Designed to be the perfect midlayer for any outdoor activity, Stellar says the fleece is suited to ski-touring, free-skiing, and alpinism in the winter and climbing, hiking, trekking, and biking in the summer. If there’s one thing we love as overlanders, it’s versatility.

While I find the Stellar Mid 2.0 too warm for summer pursuits (except perhaps for early mornings and nights in places like the Canadian Rockies), the jacket can handle chilly winds and wintertime bonfires like a champ. While I didn’t have the opportunity to test the Mid Jacket 2.0 for skiing purposes, it delivered on all promises during hiking, trekking, and camping pursuits, no matter whether layered or worn on its own.

$160 | STELLAREQUIPMENT.COM

NORRØNA

FEMUND WARMWOOL FLEX2 TIGHTS

After donning Norrøna’s warmest tights, the Femund Warmwool Flex2s, I will never go back to wearing regular leggings in the wintertime. The soft thermal interior is made of 100 percent woven recycled polyester, which offers an all-way stretch and is topped with a mix of 78 percent recycled polyester, 18 percent wool, and 6 percent elastane. As soon as I unwrapped these tights, I noticed the luxuriousness of the interior lining, which is very comfortable without compromising on fit or stretch. My only gripe with the Flex2s is they are too long for my shorter legs and bunch up from the knee down.

Otherwise, the Flex2s performed well in the odor reduction and temperature regulation departments. I like the high-waisted slim fit, elasticated waist, zippered waist

KARI TRAA

HIMLE MITTENS

During training and competition, threetime Olympic moguls medalist Kari Traa crocheted and knitted her own beanies. At the time, ski sponsors only designed clothing for male athletes, and Traa’s colorful accessories became so popular with friends and skiers that she turned the hobby into a brand. Today, the women’s sports brand continues to be inspired by Norwegian traditions, nature, and childhood memories from Kari’s family farm in Voss.

Kari Traa’s line includes everything from base layers to jackets, shorts, and leggings. I gave the Himle mittens a whirl, which feature a fleece-lined interior made of polyester and wool with a leather exterior. Forty-six percent of Kari Traa’s polyester is recycled and GRC-certified, and the brand hopes to reach its goal of 80 percent by

2030. I often prefer mittens over gloves because my fingers get cold easily, but mittens tend to restrict movement (grabbing, pinching, or doing anything tactile). Fortunately, the Himle mittens fit nicely while providing the ability to transport water jugs, undo rooftop tent latches, and open truck doors.

The fleece interior kept my fingers warm during cold snaps, while the leather exterior is classic and can pair with just about everything. For those who prefer gloves, Kari Traa also offers a pair of Himles made from the same materials in black, white, and beige. The only downside is you’ll need to keep these babies pristine, as care instructions forbid washing, bleaching, tumble drying, ironing, and dry cleaning.

$76 | KARITRAA.COM

pocket, and two lined side pockets. Suited to winter trail running and general outdoor adventures such as mountain biking and hiking, the Femund Warmwool leggings work well for the multi-faceted nature of overlanding, which often sees us doing everything from setting up camp to sightseeing, snowshoeing, and more.

Although the tights are thicker than your usual merino wool bottom, I tried them as a base layer underneath shell pants or technical pants with room on ultra-cold days. I also slept in them, just for fun. This should probably be reserved for those who run cold at night in sub-zero temps, as those who get hot at night will likely overheat—Norrøna brought the fire with these Femund tights.

$200 | NORRONA.COM

Northern Vancouver Island

A Land Rover and a reset in the Best Place on Earth.

By Greg Fitzgerald

Itwas the end of summer, and the sun hung over the far end of Muchalat Lake a bit later than it would in a month from now, but not as late as it had the month before. I was sitting on a log on the beach overlooking the water about 15 kilometers from Gold River, British Columbia—the nearest town of any significance. Gold River, in turn, was 90 kilometers from Campbell River, the biggest city this side of Nanaimo. I’d racked up 500 kilometers of driving in the past few days, much of it on dirt and all of it on an island.

The borrowed 1996 Land Rover Defender 90 was parked at camp just through the trees. My friends Nick and Tina had lent me the keys for two weeks. I’d hopped on a plane to Vancouver the day after quitting my job of the past 15 years, and I figured that some time spent overlanding my way across Vancouver Island was a good way to hit the reset button. I’ve fallen in love with British Columbia over the past few years, finding it a place that both wows and challenges me on my overland adventures there. I’m a lifelong New Jerseyan, and BC is the perfect counter to life in suburbia in the shadow of New York—still wild, but with the cosmopolitan global city of Vancouver to anchor every trip. I figured that the scenic beauty of the “Best Place on Earth” would help me find clarity as I navigated the next steps on my career path. And hey, if not, I was going camping, and that’s never a bad thing.

The bright red Defender 90 was small enough to force me to pack efficiently. A commercial model that saw its first service with a British cement company, Nick and Tina shipped it to Canada a few years ago and made it their trusty adventure wagon. They often tow a small overland trailer, but I was going solo and looking for a smaller footprint. I went with a Darche swag supplied by our mutual friends at Brigade Overland in Vancouver, a Darche 180-degree awning hanging off the back, and a fridge and kitchen gear. It made a fantastically light and fast one-man rig, the 300Tdi diesel engine still performing in its sweet spot with the minimalist load.

Vancouver Island is the largest island on the west coast of the Americas and is about half the size of Ireland. Most tourists visit Victoria on the massive cruise ships bound for Alaska and stop for a few hours to enjoy the quaint city described as more British than Britain. Mainlander British Columbians take the ferry over for the weekend, but many end up in the Victoria area or exploring the famous surf town of Tofino on the west coast.

It’s the north of the island that really shines, though, especially as an overland destination. At Campbell River, about halfway up the east coast, the four-lane divided highway from Victoria turns into a two-lane road weaving through the mountains. The road leading all the way to Port Hardy, the northernmost city on the island, wasn’t finished until 1980.

While the highway runs up the east, the west coast is punched through with fjords, valleys, and alpine lakes, bringing the waters of the Pacific deep into the interior of the island. From the main road, you can meander west and explore logging towns, fishing villages, and First Nations communities. A combination of pavement and dirt logging roads build a rugged second highway network, and with a 4WD, you can connect these to link up tens of kilometers of backcountry exploration in any one go.

I started my exploration of the North Island at Gold River, a small town on the inland reaches of Nootka Sound. Gold River lived and died as a logging town in a single generation; it was built in 1967, and the mill closed in 1998. The road west from Campbell River winds around the edge of Strathcona Provincial Park, and as I drove west, the candle-worthy smell of fresh rain on pine trees mixed with the acrid smoke from forest fires in the park.

A combination of pavement and dirt logging roads build a rugged second highway network, and with a 4WD, you can connect these to link up tens of kilometers of backcountry exploration in any one go.

Gold River is a wonderful example of one of the most brilliant things about travel in BC: the abundance of affordable municipally and provincially run camping. For just $18, the Defender and I had a spot nestled in the pine trees, the last drops of rain smacking on the awning as I whipped up a pot of that allCanadian meal, boxed mac and cheese, on the tailgate table. It was the perfect spot to overnight before heading out on a day trip to Nootka Island the next morning on the 1943-built cargo ship MV Uchuck III, a lifeline service that provides cargo to several remote coastal towns.

From Gold River, I began what became a repeating theme for the next few days: opening up my gazetteer of Vancouver Island on the flat front fender of the Defender, finding the dotted tendrils that showed the logging road network leading from wherever I was to wherever I was going, and making it a personal challenge to spend as much time as possible on dirt. My first goal was the small logging town of Woss, a ride down fire roads for almost 80 kilometers. If you don’t have a backroad-ready vehicle, the alternative is a 216-kilometer pavement run threading back through Campbell River.

Most of these roads are shared with logging trucks since British Columbia is one of North America’s most productive timber regions. For safety reasons, a VHF radio is more or less required to drive up here, and every road sector has the common communication frequency posted at the start. Rocking down the road, I called each milepost (red Land Rover, 21 up), allowing myself and the truckers to track how far we were from each other. Now and then, I came across a tractor-trailer loaded to the brim with raw logs, heading to a pile to begin its journey through the lumber-making system. These trucks have the absolute right of way, and the radio countdown gave me plenty of time to pull the Land Rover over and roll the windows up before they passed me in a cloud of dust.

About two-thirds of the way to Woss, I noticed the Defender acting squirrely. The rear axle wasn’t rebounding the same way the front one did, and as I sailed across the washboard, it became more and more noticeable. I found a place to pull over and take

Setting up camp at Gold River under a light drizzle in the shadow of Big Baldy Mountain. | Opposite: The MV Uchuck III calls at Kyuquot, where it’s been bringing supplies and visitors to this remote community in Nootka Sound since 1960. | Opening page: Exploring forest roads north of Campbell River, the Defender 90 acting as a nimble steed in the brush.

Clockwise from top left: Pulteney Point Lighthouse, which has guarded the entrance to the harbor at Port McNeill since 1905. This tower dates to 1943. | Vintage American iron slumbers below an arch of antlers in a waterfront barn in Sointula. | A prehistoric legacy from a fossil bed on the road to Holberg. | Fisheries form the backbone of Sointula’s economy, with a vibrant harbor full of classic fish shacks. | Heading down one of the logging roads on Malcolm Island. Even the offshore islands participate in BC’s robust forestry business.

a look. Sure enough, what I dreaded might have happened had happened; the rear shock had separated at the top mount, and the piston was now dancing against the side of the chassis. The downside: I had a very broken shock. The upside: I knew Nick was getting ready to replace them anyway and had two new ones on his workbench. The downside: that workbench was a six-hour drive and a ferry ride away.

There was no option but to move forward. The vehicle still drove, so I coaxed it the last 20 kilometers. I popped onto pavement and pulled into the general store at Woss, where I grabbed a pile of highly processed comfort food and used the sugar high to figure things out. After a bit of brainstorming, Nick sent the new shocks on the next flight to Port Hardy as cargo on Pacific Coastal Airlines, which runs a frequent service across remote parts of BC. Two hours of pavement later, I was at the cargo terminal picking them up.

Port Hardy is every bit one of those towns at the end of the world with its transient aura, the prominent signage for the ferry docks to move onward, and the abundant last-stop supplies.

Port Hardy is every bit one of those towns at the end of the world with its transient aura, the prominent signage for the ferry docks to move onward, and the abundant last-stop supplies. The summer Alaskan travelers were now making their way south. On this postcard-perfect day, I swapped the shocks on the Defender alongside European-plated motorhomes and cracked open an ice-cold Lucky beer to celebrate—the unofficial elixir of Vancouver Island.

I needed a break from the drama of the past few days, and the solution was a low-key day of island hopping. While BC Ferries is well-known for its service connecting the island to the mainland, it also runs several services to smaller inhabited islands off of Vancouver Island. Malcolm Island is one of the gems of the Inside Passage, with the main town of Sointula heavily influenced by the Finnish settlers who came here in the early 20th century.

As the tires clank-clanked on the ferry ramp, I realized this place provided the scene for exactly the life shift I needed. Puttering the little red Defender down winding roads clinging to the seaside, past fishing shacks built over the harbor, the fresh pine and sea air mixed in an entrancing potion. At the end of the road, a narrow hiking trail through the woods led to a quiet, rocky beach, the Pulteney Point Lighthouse standing watch at its end. As I sat to eat lunch on a sea-bleached log in front of the strong and solid beacon, the sound of sea birds and a Canadian flag snapping in the wind for a soundtrack, everything in my head was reset.

After a break back in Port Hardy, it was time to head out to the extreme tip of the island: San Josef Bay. Though not the northernmost point, thanks to the island’s Manhattan-esque, off-kilter cant, it is the furthest point from Victoria at the other tip. San Josef Bay is a 64-kilometer all-gravel journey from Port Hardy, with an overnight stop in the middle if you want to see it the right way.

The road to San Josef was, in essence, a master class on everything else I’d experienced until now. I wound through kilometer after kilometer of forest service land, the pines towering high above the Defender as it merrily puttered across rivers as salmon

Tall trees are constant companions here, as are the scarred remains of a recently-cut logging site like this one. It can take decades for a grove to mature enough for the market’s needs.

jumped upstream. The only major civilization up here is the small town of Holberg, home to logging operations and the Scarlet Ibis Pub, a remote oasis with another cold Lucky on tap. The remoteness of this area made it the ideal home for the North American Aerospace Defense Command’s westernmost radar base for its Cold War-era Pinetree Early Warning Line, designed to detect incoming Soviet aircraft to North America.

I parked the Land Rover for the night at the San Josef Heritage Campsite. The privately owned campground is the back forty of Doug’s land, which has been in his family for generations; he’s trying hard to keep his land successful without selling it to the nearby provincial park. A $10 bill exchanged for the night, I headed to hike the four kilometers out to the bay. The vast high tide overlooked by rock outcroppings and topped by trees all around was the ideal BC coastal scene and the very end of the road on Vancouver Island.

Never a fan of repeating the same route on the way out, I headed south via Coal Harbour to tackle part of my return to Vancouver on new dirt, cranking Jimmy Buffett on a portable Bluetooth speaker shoved in the dashboard pocket. Some might consider the location of a “Cheeseburger in Paradise” to be at a beach bar in Cozumel or Grand Cayman. For me, it would be cooked on the back of the Land Rover in this beautiful place.

At Joey’s Coal Harbour Historical Collection Museum, a series of rooms in the back of an aviation hanger documents the history of the region, from aviation to logging (the room of chainsaws was a vibe) to fishing to communications. My fascination with British Columbia extends to its industrial archaeology as much as its natural scenery, and many of my past trips here have focused on mining and mechanical relics. Joey’s museum, housing the cherished items of a life-long Coal Harbour resident, brought all these stories together for me, putting a capstone on my adventure.

I pounded the pavement, cranking the 300Tdi to its limits to maintain 100 km/h south. I’d completed my dirt journey and was ready to return to Vancouver. I’d never visited the Sunshine Coast of BC, which is two stretches of road across the Georgia Strait from Vancouver Island that are physically attached to the mainland but accessible only by a series of ferries. Again, looking for a different route home, I went to Comox and took the ferry to Powell River. I spent the night in the historic Rodmay Hotel, originally built by the Powell River Paper Company to house high-level business associates visiting the mill that operated here until 2021. The following day, I headed to the end of the mainland Pan-American coastal highway at Lund and ended up in Vancouver by night.

It had been a week in the Land Rover, with a major crisis, hundreds of kilometers of dirt roads, backcountry camps, and incredible cultural experiences. Had I come any closer to finding my purpose? Probably not. These trips never end that way, even if we intend them to. Or maybe I’d already found it because there is, after all, nothing that makes me happier than spending a week meandering in the Best Place on Earth.

The trail heads to San Josef Bay, and the end of the road in Vancouver Island. The tidal bay is a fitting apex to this beautiful place.

A photographer’s perspective on his truck of choice.

By Sinuhe Xavier

Photography by Sinuhe Xavier and Scott Brady

2022 AEV Chevy Bison Diesel

Whenit comes to purpose-built overland vehicles, the 2022

AEV Chevy Bison emerges as a compelling choice for enthusiasts seeking a balance between rugged capability and daily drivability. In 2024, American Expedition Vehicles (AEV) took the Chevy Colorado Bison to new heights, infusing it with a suite of upgrades that made it a standout in the overlanding community. However, for me, the 2022 model was the only choice because of the 2.8-liter diesel engine that is no longer offered.

As a photographer known for capturing the essence of remote landscapes and the thrill of motorsport, I find in the 2022 AEV Chevy Bison an unparalleled ally. This vehicle aligns perfectly with my demands and the constant pursuit of the perfect shot, whether in the secluded backcountry or amidst the adrenaline-pumping action of off-road races like the Mexican 1000 in Baja California.

While full-size trucks are all the rage in the overland space, for where I travel most, the Colorado Plateau, the footprint of a fullsize truck is too big, requiring more finesse to go down trails, limiting access to some of my all-time favorite spots. My criteria for choosing a work truck specific to my needs were straightforward but non-negotiable: compact size, fuel efficiency, comfort, uncompromised off-road capability, reliability, and above all else, simplicity.

With all builds, it’s imperative to start where the rubber meets the road, and I have been a fan of Falken for over a decade. Their tires have been on several of my vehicles, and the Wildpeak A/T3W is an excellent option for how the truck is used, as long miles on tarmac usually precede getting to the trail. The A/T3W is solid on the highway with low noise and great handling. When I hit dirt, its aggressive tread works well on the desert terrain I frequent and doesn’t shy away from the high alpine of Colorado.

MY CRITERIA FOR CHOOSING A WORK TRUCK SPECIFIC TO MY NEEDS WERE STRAIGHTFORWARD BUT NON-NEGOTIABLE: COMPACT SIZE, FUEL EFFICIENCY, COMFORT, UNCOMPROMISED OFF-ROAD CAPABILITY, RELIABILITY, AND ABOVE ALL ELSE, SIMPLICITY.

1. The Goose Gear rear seat delete is a must, creating a secure space for personal items and key gear. | 2. The ARB compressor mounted inside the Decked system provides a clean air supply. | 3. Being able to get to locations like this along the Utah Traverse was kept front of mind with every upgrade. | 4. The organization afforded by the Leitner Forge cargo system is unparalleled. | 5. The Decked drawer system keeps my critical equipment stored and organized, ready to go at a moment’s notice. | 6. Everything in my vehicle needs to be within easy reach. | 7. The Level Up Suspension upgrades were a game changer. Opposite: The AEV Bison’s compact size is a dream on tighter trails. | Opening page: Vehicle dependability is paramount when navigating locations such as Utah’s Blue Hills solo.

RESOURCES

AEV aev-conversions.com

Summit Off Road summit4x4company.com

GTFO gtfoverland.com

Leitner Designs leitnerdesigns.com

Darche darche.com.au

Hardkorr hardkorr.com.au

Sunflare Solar sunflaresolar.com

ARB arbusa.com

Goose Gear goose-gear.com

National Luna equipt1.com

Decked decked.com

Superwinch superwinch.com

Timbren timbren.com

Falken Tires falkentire.com

Level Up Suspension levelupsuspension.com

Colorado Canyon Enthusiasts coloradocanyonenthusiasts.com

The Bison’s factory suspension is already a solid foundation, but for those who venture farther off the beaten path, the addition of specialized suspension upgrades elevates this truck to a new echelon of off-road prowess. Integrating Timbren bump stops is a critical enhancement for handling the Bison’s increased weight and height, offering superior suspension performance by preventing bottoming out, a common issue when navigating rough terrain with heavy loads. They absorb shock effectively, ensuring a smoother ride and protecting the suspension from potential damage. This addition is particularly beneficial when the vehicle is loaded with gear, providing supplemental support and stability, thus maintaining ride quality and vehicle control.

Upgrading to 700-pound Eibach springs, coupled with a Level Up coilover conversion, is a game changer for the Bison’s suspension system. These springs are designed to handle additional weight without compromising the vehicle’s stance or ride quality. The increased spring rate helps maintain a level ride height, even with heavy gear or a rooftop tent, while the coilover conversion allows for fine-tuning of the suspension, enabling adjustments to

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Traveling the Cottonwood Road on the Utah Traverse in search of the perfect shot. | The AEV Chevy Bison, effortlessly rolling through Utah’s Blue Hills. | Brigham Plains along the Utah Traverse during a superbloom. | Sweet solitude on Alstrom Point, Lake Powell.

THE 2022 AEV CHEVY BISON IS A TESTAMENT TO WHAT A WELL-THOUGHT-OUT OVERLAND VEHICLE CAN BE.

accommodate various loads and conditions. We also added Level Up sway bar links and tie-rod sleeves. This setup improves off-road performance with better wheel travel and articulation and enhances on-road comfort, making the Bison a suitable vehicle for all kinds of adventures.

The addition of the Deaver Spring Expedition leaf pack is vital for enhancing the Bison’s rear suspension. Designed for expedition weight, these leaf springs provide the necessary support for the additional gear typically carried during extended overland trips. They are engineered to flex appropriately, significantly improving load capacity and durability and ensuring the rear suspension can handle the extra weight without sagging. This upgrade also contributes to improved ride quality and vehicle stability, both on and off the road.

The addition of the Leitner rack system was a masterstroke for storage and accessibility. The modular design allows for various configurations, catering to different needs, whether for a weekend getaway or a long expedition. The rack’s robust construction ensures it can handle heavy loads, making it perfect for mounting rooftop tents, extra fuel, water containers, or recovery gear. Its versatility is unmatched, providing a platform for almost any overland necessity.

The Darche Streamliner rooftop tent and Eclipse 180 awning are indispensable for their lightweight, sturdy design. The rooftop tent is a marvel of engineering, balancing a light build with uncompromised functionality, essential for handling diverse weather conditions. Its ease of setup and takedown is a major plus, especially when time is of the essence during photography expeditions. Inside, the sleeping pad is super comfortable and has convenient gear pockets and LED lights.

The Eclipse 180 awning is equally impressive, offering expansive coverage while being sturdy enough to withstand harsh elements in a compact size. It’s not just a shelter; it’s a space for gear storage, meal prep, or

relaxation. Its robust construction and easy deployment make it a practical addition to my travel setup.

Deleting the rear seats with a Goose Gear system was a major key, giving me a secure place to lash down my National Luna fridge and personal items. The system is seamless and installs easily, creating a strong bench in the back that connects to the factory rear seat points. I use Nomad Fox cases for the necessary items of any particular trip, whether it be Baja or Utah.

The Decked drawer system is a testament to organization and efficiency. Nestled perfectly in the Bison’s bed, it offers ample storage space while keeping your gear accessible. The waterproof and lockable drawers mean that whether you’re crossing rivers or leaving the vehicle unattended in the wild, your equipment stays dry and safe. This addition transforms the Bison’s bed into a highly functional space for storing tools, camping gear, or emergency supplies.

Equipping the Bison with a Superwinch SX12SR epitomizes the vehicle’s readiness for serious off-road challenges. The winch is crucial for self-recovery situations or assisting others on the trail. It’s not just a tool but also a lifeline when venturing into remote areas solo. The integration is seamless, without disrupting the Bison’s aesthetics, while offering peace of mind, knowing that you have the means to extricate yourself from less-than-ideal situations.

Reliability isn’t just a feature of my vehicle; it’s a necessity. In the world of remote adventure and solo excursions into some of the most secluded and challenging terrains, where help is often miles away and communication can be limited, the dependability of my vehicle becomes paramount. And the reliability of the 2022 AEV Chevy Bison isn’t just about vehicle performance; it’s also my companion, workspace, sleep system, and safety net. This trust in the Bison’s features empowers me to capture the beauty of the remote world, one frame at a time.

With these thoughtful upgrades, the 2022 AEV Chevy Bison becomes more than just a vehicle; it’s a formidable machine for the overland enthusiast. The suspension upgrades transform its off-road prowess, while the Leitner rack and Decked system revolutionize storage and organization, and the Superwinch adds a critical safety element.

SPECIFICATIONS

2022 AEV Chevy Bison

POWER

Duramax 2.8-liter engine

181 horsepower

369 pound-feet torque

Towing capacity of 5,206 pounds

SUSPENSION

Dynamic suspension spool valve

Multimatic dampers

Eibach 700-pound springs

Deaver Spring Expedition leaf pack

Timbren Active bump stops

Level Up coilover conversion

Level Up tie-rod sleeves

Level Up sway bar links

WHEELS AND TIRES

Falken Wildpeak AT3W 255/80R17

AEV Bison 17-inch wheels

RECOVERY AND ARMOR

AEV Bison front and rear bumpers

AEV Bison skid plates

AEV Bison sliders

Superwinch SX12SR

MaxTrax Xtreme

ACCESSORIES

Leitner Forged active cargo system

Darche Streamliner RTT

Darche Eclipse 180 awning

Sunflare solar (180 watts)

Decked drawer system

ARB onboard twin air compressor

Goose Gear rear seat delete

National Luna 52-liter fridge (I’ve had this fridge since 2008)

The 2022 AEV Chevy Bison is a testament to what a well-thought-out overland vehicle can be. It’s a clear reflection of AEV and Founder Dave Harriton’s understanding of overlanders’ needs and their commitment to quality and performance. Whether crossing deserts, climbing mountains, or simply enjoying a scenic backcountry trail, the Bison is equipped to take you there and, perhaps more importantly, bring you back. As mountaineers say, the summit is only halfway there.

WHAT’S IN YOUR DRAWERS? ASHLEY GIORDANO

GONDIRTIN’S 1994 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER TROOP CARRIER

WHERE VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE.

Built to support the LA-based couple’s careers as professional automotive photographers and overland chefs, Karissa Hosek and Linhbergh Nguyen’s 1994 Land Cruiser Troopy suits their outdoor lifestyle, houses their two pups, Kyia and Stella, and acts as a rolling chef’s lab, from which spicy Korean BBQ, Japanese shabu-shabu, and hearty Vietnamese soups are created with love.

Originally from Darwin, New South Wales, Australia, the Troopy has been transformed by the couple, who added an Expedition Centre Mulgo pop-top, cupboards, an induction stovetop, and bench seating. While the Nordic-inspired interior is simple but beautifully done, the spice drawer and chef tools bring dishes like Dalat-style Vietnamese pork meatballs and Korean BBQ bulgogi tacos to life.

To access a plentiful selection of sauces and spices, Karissa and Linhbergh built a spice drawer that opens both inside and outside the vehicle. This pantry is filled with goodies like fish sauce, soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, mirin, chicken bouillon, MSG, Kewpie mayo, furikake, tamarind concentrate, gochugaru chili powder, gochugaru chili flakes, garam masala, instant Japanese curry boxes, dashi powder, and crystalized lime and lemon packets. “With a pantry this diverse, we can cook anything from spaghetti bolognese to Korean tofu soups to Indian lentil curries with made-from-scratch chutney,” Karissa says. “The world is literally our oyster.” Yum.

GO-TO ITEM Bottle of fish sauce. We use it as a canned anchovy replacement or as a flavor enhancer.

EVERYDAY CARRY Toilet paper.

NEVER USED/LEAST HELPFUL Electric tank water heater.

MOST RANDOM Foldable laptop stand.

MOST INTERESTING Electric portable rice cooker. It’s small (maximum 2 cups of dry rice), runs at 200 watts for 20 minutes, and frees up a burner to cook things to enjoy with said cooked rice.

JUST IN CASE Carver skateboard.

ORDER OR DISORDER Why not both?

DID YOU TIDY YOUR DRAWER BEFORE TAKING THE PICTURE? Yes, because like any immigrant parent knowing guests are coming over, I’m conscious of the optics of how things look to others.

BEST STORY BEHIND AN ITEM For years, we agonized [about] how we hated when our food got cold when we ate outside or lamented at the thought of having hot food in a camp bowl singe our fingers as we carried them. While eating at Korean restaurants, we eventually opened our eyes to the bowls, plates, and cups in front of us. They were all double-walled. So we got a set of double-walled bowls at a restaurant supply depot and have never looked back. We’re really surprised the outdoor industry is just barely getting into it now.

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU CHANGED YOUR DRAWERS? Every few days. It’s gross to sport the same drawers longer than a week.

PLEASE ENJOY EPISODE 109 OF THE OVERLAND JOURNAL PODCAST: GONDIRTIN ON TRAVELING WITH DOGS, OVERLAND KITCHEN STAPLES, AND THEIR 70-SERIES LAND CRUISER TROOPY BUILD.

Left to right: Rain or shine, Karissa and Linhbergh can access oils, spices, and sauces from both the interior and exterior of the vehicle. | Birch-ply sliding drawers house a variety of dry goods in the rear of the Troopy.

Tire Repair Essentials

Solutions for the most common field repair.

By Scott Brady

Whilemost travelers envision their first field repair as a bent tie rod or a punctured oil pan, the most common malady is a damaged tire. The correct tire repair equipment can reduce the need to bring a second spare tire or even use your primary spare. Repairing the tire quickly and efficiently is the best approach, as it keeps the spare in service and reduces dependency on finding a local shop to fix it. Before the tire issue occurs in the field, it is recommended that you change a tire in your driveway. Is your jack tall enough to accommodate the lift and bigger tires? Does your lug wrench fit the new lugnuts? Do you have the anti-theft key for the locking lug nut? While a Hi-Lift Jack can be appropriate for changing a tire, they can be unstable on long-travel vehicles or lack the rating for heavy overland vehicles (we also worked with one traveler that had insufficient strength and body weight to operate the Hi-Lift on a fully-loaded Land Cruiser). I also recommend inserting a few plugs using an old tire and getting comfortable with the process.

(OPPOSITE, LEFT COLUMN, THEN RIGHT)

COLBY

EMERGENCY VALVE STEM

The Colby valve is the solution to a damaged valve stem, where you can insert the replacement from the outside without breaking the bead. The Colby achieves this with a patented “winged spacer” that lets you tighten the stem into the wheel from the outside, cinching it firmly and preventing leaks. This emergency fix will get you to a tire repair shop for a proper replacement.

$30/2-PACK | COLBY-VALVE.MYSHOPIFY.COM

INDEFLATE

INDEFLATE

There are many ways to deflate a tire, but few are as convenient as an Indeflate. The two-hose unit is ideal and equalizes the pressure between two tires on one axle. The design allows you to air up or down two tires simultaneously while standing and easily operating the deflate collar. In an emergency, it can move air between tires without a compressor.

$170 | ADVENTURE-IMPORTS.COM

EXTREME OUTBACK PRODUCTS

ULTIMATE PUNCTURE REPAIR KIT

Extreme Outback is the OG puncture repair kit solution and is still the best. The kit is compact yet stuffed with an HD reamer and insertion tool, a large package of thick string inserts, and 20 other

essential items for gluing, patching, replacing, stitching, wiring, and repairing. There is an oversized Baja Boot patch and even a few tube patches to help other travelers.

$100 | EXTREMEOUTBACK.COM

ARB

TWIN MOTO PORTABLE 12-VOLT AIR COMPRESSOR

Many compressors are on the market, but only some have the combination of portability, flow, and a storage tank like the ARB twin compressor. For tire repairs, having a tank is important as it can provide the burst flow rate required to reseat a bead on the trail. The tank also permits the use of air tools, and the 100 percent duty cycle allows for inflating large-diameter tires or even multiple vehicles.

$990 | ARBUSA.COM

PERFECT BUNGEE

9-FEET X 2-INCH ANCHOR STRAP

One of the more common issues is losing a bead at extremely low pressures, normally in the sand or snow. By jacking up the offending corner, this anchor strap can be cinched around the diameter of the tire (in the center of the tread face) and ratcheted tight, pushing the bead up against the inside lip of the wheel, allowing reinflation and reseating of the bead.

$46/2-PACK | THEPERFECTBUNGEE.COM

GLUETREAD

FULL-SIZE SIDEWALL KIT

GlueTread is a new solution on the market and comes with everything you need to fix a sidewall cut (even up to several inches long) on the trail without breaking down the tire/wheel. The package includes sandpaper to prep the tire surface, four patches, and four bottles of adhesive. With proper prep, these patches work and are ready to drive on after a 10-minute cure time.

$50 | GLUETREAD.COM

ADDITIONAL

KEY ITEMS

• Full-size spare tire at street pressure

• Extra front and rear wheel studs

• Set of spare lug nuts (equivalent to how many are on a single wheel)

• Proper jack capable of lifting the fully loaded vehicle (the jack should also function as a bead breaker)

• A 12-inch-square piece of 1-inch-thick plywood to provide a stable jacking base on soft surfaces

• Mechanics gloves and eye protection

Putting ChatGPT to the test in Bosnia and Herzegovina (and beyond).

By Ashley Giordano

Photography by Richard Giordano

Nestled within Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Dinaric Alps, Orlovačko Lake is so clear the surrounding mountains are mirrored in its waters. The glacial lake, home to brown and rainbow trout and arctic char, is surrounded by pastures, the Zelengora mountain range, and a host of beech and pine trees, including the endemic Pinus heldreichii. A beautiful spot such as this also attracts thumping beats, spirited singing, and rakija-fueled family barbecues filled with sucked-dry cigarettes and plenty of sunbathing.

We ventured to this Republika Srpska camp spot in Sutjeska National Park on the advice of ChatGPT. “One of the most popular and beautiful spots for wild camping in the Zelengora Mountain Area,” it promised, “surrounded by stunning scenery” and “a tranquil setting for camping.” The area featured hiking trails and was accessible by “a dirt road suitable for 4x4 vehicles.”

I set out through Bosnia and Herzegovina with a plan: to put ChatGPT to the test to see if the open artificial intelligence (AI) platform could plan a better overland trip. Feeling confident, I presumed my last decade of practiced research

to right: This Douglas C-47 Dakota military airplane was the last to land at the Željava Air Base before its abandonment in 1992. | The ritual of Bosnian coffee involves taking a moment to enjoy life; it is consumed with something sweet, usually sugar or Turkish delight. | Choosing Bosnian backroads provides a reprieve from the summer heat. | Opposite: Mostar’s reconstructed 16th-century Ottoman bridge Stari Most (Old Bridge); the original was destroyed during the Bosnian War. | Opening page: This likeness of our 2008 Tundra and OEV camper in Bosnia was generated using OpenAI’s DALL·E, which creates images from text descriptions.

skills, personal connections, and interactions with travelers and locals would come out on top.

But, as I sat in my camp chair, watching the sun dip below the Zelengora mountains, a trickle of doubt crept in. Cigarette butts and late-night serenading aside, had I underestimated the potential of AI for trip planning? Or, as ChatGPT so aptly put it, could AI truly “capture the spirit of overlanding, which thrives on spontaneity, human connection, and the serendipity of the open road?”

WHAT IS ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE?

As a layperson shallowly dabbling in the field of AI, I appreciate IBM’s concise definition of artificial intelligence as “technology that enables computers and machines to stimulate human learning, comprehension, problem-solving, decision-making, creativity, and autonomy.” Generative AI is making headlines for the technology’s ability to summarize and compile data and create original images, videos, and other content.

AI trip-planning platforms promise to process vast amounts of data with real-time insights to help create road trip routes, analyze terrain data, predict weather patterns, suggest destinations based on user interests, and more. For the sake of simplicity and accessibility, I chose the non-premium ChatGPT as my primary AI planning platform for Bosnia and Herzegovina.

CHATGPT ON PLANNING AN OVERLAND TRIP WITH CHATGPT

Tell me how to plan an overland trip using ChatGPT, I smugly typed into the Message ChatGPT text box. Nearly

Left

900 (!) words later, the chatbot wrapped up its multi-step guide, which included musings on topics such as defining trip goals and preferences (destination, duration, budget, interests, number of travel companions) and route planning, including border crossings, road condition information, and must-sees based on your interests.

The guide touched on planning logistics and supplies, safety and health considerations, final checks, and departure items, including a proposed review of an itinerary or the creation of a final departure list. Real-time advice is also available, including updates on local weather conditions, road closures, and events. “By following these steps,” HAL 9000 ChatGPT typed, “you can create a well-organized, safe, and enjoyable overland adventure.” Although ChatGPT’s tips were fairly general, they hit the highlights and would be particularly helpful for someone planning their first overland trip, provided the user prompted it for more detailed information.

MOVE OVER IOVERLANDER? USING CHATGPT TO FIND WILD CAMP SPOTS

We all have tried, tested, and true research methods when it comes to finding a camp spot—all of which usually involve a combination of suggestions from friends and fellow travelers, browsing satellite imagery or maps, using apps like iOverlander or Park4Night, or simply driving along dirt tracks until a splendid spot appears in the distance. A mix of these worked well for me in the past; still, I wondered if Chat GPT could bring something else to the table.

Where can I find scenic and tranquil wild camping spots in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and what are the local regulations? ChatGPT responded with seven regions, including Sutjeska National Park, Blidinje Nature Park, the Bjelšsnica and Igman mountains, and more; however, it did not provide GPS coordinates, so I had to revise my query asking for specific coordinates and locations with vehicle-accessible wild camping (as opposed to tent camping). Many of the GPS coordinates that ChatCPT provided were inaccurate, recommending coordinates that weren’t accessible by vehicle or hiking trail.

Although ChatGPT’s tips were fairly general, they hit the highlights and would be particularly helpful for someone planning their first overland trip, provided the user prompted it for more detailed information.

As for local regulations, ChatGPT noted that while not technically legal, wild camping is generally tolerated in Bosnia and Herzegovina (our experience in the country confirmed this). ChatGPT outlined best practices such as adhering to Leave No Trace principles and keeping 200 feet away from water sources to avoid contamination. In the Tjentište Valley, Chat GPT recommended “sticking to areas away from main trails” as hiking further into the surrounding hills would increase the chances of finding a private spot. Meanwhile, in its safety considerations section, ChatGPT acknowledged the presence of land mines in some rural areas, present from past conflicts, and emphasized camping away from areas with warning signs or those that locals advise against.

While this may not sound like a serious problem, Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the most mine-contaminated countries in the world, and the country’s Mine Action Center (BHMAC) estimates a total of around 79,000 mines, unexploded ordnance, and cluster munitions remaining. Sticking to well-traveled tracks and trails, we relied on the BH Suspected Mines app to ensure we stayed safe while traveling through the country, including in the Tjentište Valley.

Overall, I found wild camp searching via ChatGPT a weak spot. It is far more efficient (and enjoyable) to use satellite imagery or user-generated apps such as iOverlander and Park4Night, which give a better sense of place with maps, photographs, descriptions, and ratings with the ease of navigation compatibility with Google Maps, Gaia GPS, Maps. me, and more. Although Orlovačko Lake turned out to be a lovely site, I’m confident we would have found it one way or another.

USING CHATGPT TO PLAN A BORDER CROSSING

What do I need to know about crossing the border from Bosnia and Herzegovina to Montenegro? Five hundred words later, ChatGPT laid out a plan. Required documents included a passport, vehicle registration, driver’s license, and international insurance—this all checked out. Three crossing locations were listed along with practical tips (check hours, be prepared for delays, currency, customs check, and road conditions). All ensured a “smooth and hassle-free border crossing.” Nice. Our vehicle insurance provider does not include Bosnia and Herzegovina, so we needed to purchase liability insurance on-site at the border. The chatbot noted we should expect to pay between €20 and €50 for short-term coverage (15 days to one month)—tick, tick, we paid €40 for 15 days—and that border insurance was available at most crossing points. Not keen to take a chance on “most,” I back-and-forthed with ChatGPT, discovering that liability insurance was only available for purchase at the larger, more frequently used crossings (one or two out of five), which means some overland travelers need to factor this into their route planning or run the risk of a several-hour detour. Overall, ChatGPT did a pretty good job with this border crossing, although I double-checked its work just in case.

THROWING CHATGPT A CURVEBALL: AZERBAIJAN

After putting ChatGPT to the test with a few more tasks—mostly around finding Bosnian coffee in Sarajevo and the best burek in Mostar—I wanted to take things to the next level. Although visiting Azerbaijan wasn’t related to our time spent in Bosnia and Herzegovina, any overlander planning their route from Europe to Central Asia knows the border into Azerbaijan is currently off-limits to foreign-plated vehicles.

Is it possible to import a foreign-plated vehicle to overland through Azerbaijan? Confident as ever, ChatGPT responded: “Yes, it is entirely possible to overland through Azerbaijan. In fact, Azerbaijan is a popular destination for overlanders due to its diverse landscapes, rich culture, and strategic lo-

cation on the Silk Road. This crossing has been operational for many years, and the process is well-documented in overlanding communities and official resources.” Curious, I asked which “official resources” it was relying on. It cited “numerous overlanding and travel reports from individuals and groups,” as well as travel guides and information from embassies, consulates, and border services supporting the fact that the border was open for vehicles.

Had I missed something? A quick Google search revealed the Azerbaijan border was still closed to overland vehicles. A Facebook group search showed evidence of overlanders shipping their motorcycles and vehicles over the border, rendezvousing after their flight. You cannot temporarily import a foreign-plated vehicle into Azerbaijan, I typed. Words streamed across my laptop monitor. “I apologize for the confusion earlier,” ChatGPT lamented. “You are correct.” Citing travel forums and overlanding communities, ChatGPT noted that many overlanders have reported their experiences and difficulties regarding vehicle entry into the country on forums such as Horizons Unlimited, iOverlander, and—wait for it— Expedition Portal. Now, we had come full circle.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON TRIP PLANNING AND CHATGPT

The initial purpose of this article was to quell my curiosity about the effectiveness of ChatGPT as a trip-planning tool. However, as I logged out of the OpenAI browser, my thoughts turned philosophical. In The Art of Travel, Alain de Botton examines anticipation as part of the travel journey, noting that for him, “the study of maps and the perusal of travel books aroused in me a secret fascination that was at times almost irresistible.” Trip planning is an art fueled by curiosity and creativity, where the fun lies within the task itself.

It is a colorful, interactive process that ultimately brings us into contact with other human beings.

Despite its failures (and successes), I enjoyed putting ChatGPT to the test and will likely use it from time to time. That being said, there is something deeply unsatisfying about typing question after question into a bleak, white chatbox. It just doesn’t have the same allure as unfolding a map over the hood of a vehicle, importing tracks into onX Offroad, or turning the pages of a musty book written by those who paved the way decades ago. Predictably, the seemingly omniscient chatbot could explain my feelings as well. “ChatGPT lacks personal experiences, emotions, and intuition, which are often key to deeply creative work,” it typed. That is something we can certainly agree on.

It just doesn’t have the same allure as unfolding a map over the hood of a vehicle, importing tracks into onX Offroad, or turning the pages of a musty book written by those who paved the way decades ago.

While the tradition of jumping off the Stari Most bridge began in 1664, divers leap into the Neretva River from other dizzying platforms. | Opposite: The Željava Air Base, which could hold up to 60 aircraft, was a Yugoslav military installation designed to serve as a Cold Warera ballistic missile early warning system. | The bullet-holed Sarajevo bobsleigh and luge track was used as an artillery base by Bosnian Serbs from 1992 to 1996. | Containing messages of peace and protest, most of Mostar’s street art can be found in and around the abandoned Sniper Tower. | Rowing down the Una River took us to an open-air bar offering garlicky grilled fish. | Bosnian burek is a baked phyllo pastry, typically filled with meat, spinach, cheese, or pumpkin.

The Top 10 Overlanding Game Changers

We have more tools than ever before to facilitate life on the road.

By Scott Brady

Significantengineering and communication advancements have transformed domestic and international overlanding in the past few decades. These innovations have made the process safer, easier, and more connected than ever, promoting a lower cost of travel and the ability to work remotely in a vehicle from anywhere on the planet.

1. FACTORY OVERLAND VEHICLES

Original equipment manufacturers have embraced overlanding and have started to deliver factory-ready 4WDs and motorcycles poised for adventure. Newer vehicles often have larger tires, more robust suspensions, steel bumpers, locking differentials, raised air intakes, and winches. Examples like the Chevrolet Bison AEV, Ineos Grenadier, Toyota Trailhunter, Jeep Rubicon, and Ford Tremor have reset the expectation of what is possible from the dealership, all under warranty. Adventure Motorcycles like the Ducati DesertX Rally, BMW GS Adventure, and Triumph Tiger Rally Pro are impressive moto offerings.

2.

STARLINK

SpaceX has transformed remote work as we know it by delivering broadband internet to nearly every inch of the world. For the overlander, this can provide additional income through content creation or even permit a work-from-road career. Starlink also improves connectivity, enabling travelers to stay in touch with family or rally support during emergencies such as illness or a breakdown.

3. GARMIN INREACH

The Garmin inReach has been a boon to remote travelers, providing two-way messaging access to the Iridium satellite network for 100 percent global coverage. The unit is only a few hundred dollars, and the monthly service is a reasonable $12-$64 per month, depending on the services and number of messages you wish to transmit. These compact communicators provide a layer of security and connection that was never before available in this price range.

4.

IOVERLANDER

Many relevant smartphone apps are available, but iOverlander has proven to be the most widely adopted, respected, and up-to-date one for vehicle-based travelers. While it has limited mapping capabilities, the offline database of campsites, accommodations, fuel, repair shops, and border crossing information is unparalleled. Travelers can also provide updates and new locations to help spread the impact over more points of interest.

5. SMARTPHONES

Since the first iPhone, smartphones have changed personal device use forever. Nearly every traveler has a computer in their pocket with accurate GPS positioning, detailed mapping, translation, currency conversion, research, email, and even high-quality cameras. These devices allow the overlander to solve problems quickly and accurately with the assistance of online searches, calls, texts, SMS, MMS, WhatsApp, and other tools. You can even use them as a level to make sure the camper is positioned for sleeping.

6. VANS

The availability of all-wheel-drive vans has significantly altered the overlanding landscape, for better or worse. They are easy to drive, reasonably capable, and supremely comfortable boxes on wheels available to a wide audience. Vans can be configured or modified to the owner’s delight and, with sufficient modification, be capable of driving moderately difficult backcountry roads. Using an AWD Sprinter as an example, an additional advantage is that most of these platforms are available globally and can be repaired and serviced in dealerships or shops in nearly every country.

7. SMALL, AFFORDABLE CAMPERS

One of the challenges of using a small yet capable 4WD truck like the Tacoma/Hilux is the available payload. As a result, campers like the AT Overland Habitat or the Go Fast Camper (GFC) with a hardtop lifting roof and tent sides have exploded in popularity. These campers can be purchased for under $10,000, weigh less than 500 pounds, and are excellent for three-season use and for maintaining the off-highway capability of lighter-duty trucks.

8. FACEBOOK GROUPS AND FORUMS

Within the last 20 years, the availability of online forums and Facebook groups has reinvented the overland planning process. It is now possible to quickly search and ask questions of a large group of active travelers. These communities can provide immediate assistance and support for those struggling with bureaucracy, route guidance, or mechanical failures in a particular country. This development has even extended to WhatsApp groups for travelers actively moving together through the region. However, due diligence should still be considered a necessary component when using these communication channels.

9. LITHIUM BATTERIES

All of this new technology requires power to keep running, with Starlink consuming up to 10 amps per hour. The development and improvement of lithium batteries have brought more capacity and less weight and space for the overland camper. Lithium power lets the traveler allocate less of their payload to the house battery systems, even allowing for 12-volt air-conditioning, induction cooking, and more. Note that lithium batteries have become subject to more restrictions from transport companies when shipping your vehicle.

10. E-VISAS

Within the last five years, the availability of electronic visas has significantly improved the international overland experience. The online application and approval process makes it possible to apply for one from anywhere and receive it for download in your email or even add it to your Apple wallet. Paper visas require going to an embassy or consulate in person or sending the passport to a visa service and waiting days or weeks for it to return. EVisa adoption is spreading quickly, with many African countries promoting their use.

SKILLS ASHLEY GIORDANO

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD GIORDANO AND LILA SHAW

The ABCs of overland convoy etiquette.

Alpha, Bravo, Charlie

There’s a kid driving a Toyota Corolla at 120 km/h, waving a note at me with the words “I love you” scrawled across the paper. Normally, I would be flattered at this declaration of affection, but the teen’s foot is jammed to the floor, sending his beat-up car screaming beside us on the dirt shoulder. We’re in Saudi Arabia, and, fortunately, I heard the radio call about the excited teenager and pulled over with the group. To the kid’s delight, we made his love letter dreams come true by snapping a group selfie.

Whether traveling as part of a convoy for recreation, during a community group ride, a press trip, or a tour, it can be a lot of fun—especially when it’s running like a well-oiled machine. Moving as a pack allows you to travel through remote areas more safely, prevents participants from getting lost, and, theoretically, ensures everyone arrives at the destination together. As predominantly social creatures, we gain a lot of satisfaction from shared experiences. Gathering around the campfire, helping each other through a tricky bit of trail, and sharing a meal (or a selfie in Saudi Arabia) evokes a sense of camaraderie and bonding, creating memories we look back on with fondness.

However, traveling in a convoy can also be challenging. Ineffective communication, power dynamics, unclear roles and expectations, or disagreements around driving technique, speed, or the itinerary can dampen the mood, while stressors such as vehicle breakdowns or mechanical issues can overwhelm an already tense group. Fortunately, identifying roles and responsibilities ahead of time and focusing on clear communication goes a long way.

KNOW YOUR ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITIES

Whether you’re in the lead or part of the convoy group, there are ways to keep the operation running smoothly. As with any “group project,” knowing the part each member plays helps with communication, expectation management, and teamwork. If this is all reading a bit day job-y (“Could we just circle back…”), it probably is. Working as an efficient convoy prevents wasted time during which you could be, well, having fun. That’s really the whole point of traveling in a convoy—to see some sights, camp as a group, share a laugh, and come together for a great adventure.

The lead driver is responsible for navigation, scheduling breaks, setting pace, and informing the group on distances and anticipated trail and road conditions. Overland Expo driving instructor Harry Wagner is an eight-time Ultimate Adventure participant who has led Roco Adventure Week in the Sierra Nevada and Honduras. “If I am leading the group, ideally, I have recently traveled the route and know what to expect to keep surprises to a minimum,” he says. In a more casual environment, such as with a group of friends, you may be running a route for the very first time, although the lead driver typically has the most insight about what’s to come based on GPX tracks, trip reports, and maps.

If he’s part of the convoy group, Wagner tries to be sympathetic to the lead by being prompt and keeping suggestions to a minimum while making mental notes of items of interest he may want to return to at another time. Being familiar with your vehicle’s fuel range, stocking up on food and water, bringing your own recovery gear, and ensuring your vehicle is in good working order are all characteristics of a self-sufficient convoy participant. Speaking of fuel—keep an eye on your gauge and have a general idea of your remaining range. A proficient convoy leader will keep this in mind when selecting the next fuel stop for the group.

The last driver in the convoy (also called “whip,” “tailend Charlie,” or “tail gunner”) is responsible for closing any opened gates, keeping the lead informed of the group’s status (especially if the convoy becomes split in traffic), and setting up lane changes during highway or city driving.

COMMUNICATION IS KEY

In this case, communication refers to radio chatter and clarity between the convoy leader and participants regarding comfortable speeds, time estimates, fuel stops, snack and restroom breaks, and technical obstacles. From the outset, be clear with your skill and comfort levels so the leader may adjust based on participating vehicles and off-pavement capabilities.

“Communication is the fundamental requirement for convoy travel, and it’s completely free of charge outside the initial cost of the device used to communicate itself,” says Kurt Williams, who has run convoys through North and South America, Asia and Russia, Australia, Africa, and Greenland with Expeditions 7 and Expedition Overland.

Kurt has also driven thousands of off-pavement miles with media and film crews, training drives for vehicle manufacturers such as Toyota and Lexus, and off-road trips with up to 20 vehicles in tow. In fact, Kurt and Expedition Overland co-founder Clay Croft taught me all I know about convoy etiquette and driving, and their professionalism and skill behind the wheel heavily influenced how I carry out my own navigation responsibilities, whether in the lead or as a tail gunner.

Effective radio communication means making sure everyone can hear you (this is reflected in the quality of the radios and appropriate distances between vehicles), ensuring you aren’t overwhelming the line with too much chit-chat, giving simple, clear direction, and warning the rest of the convoy of potential hazards. There are certainly times when you can have more fun on the radio; just read the room. You may want to save your best one-liners until you clear the hectic city traffic of Johannesburg—or Phoenix, Houston, or Salt Lake City, for that matter.

Regarding radios, Williams always discusses which system the group will choose before departure, whether with 2M, Ham, GRMS, FRS, or CB. “While mobile phones and satellite devices are great resources for communication,” he says, “they are not practical or reliable in most cases for real-time

car-to-car communications. All vehicles should be equipped with two-way radio, preferably hard-wired (no batteries to die), with an external antenna for optimal range and clarity.”

Lead and rear vehicles are responsible for alerting the rest of the group about any oncoming or upcoming traffic—especially if visibility is poor, the track is narrow or curvy with blind corners, or other drivers are attempting to overtake at speed. Williams likes to call out surface transitions, such as pavement to dirt and terrain exceptions, including big washouts, rocks, etc. In some cases, messages may need to be relayed between vehicles; to address this, trucks with short antennas or the least amount of radio range can be strategically placed in the middle of the group.

MAINTAIN COMFORTABLE SPEEDS AND SAFE DISTANCES

Typically, convoy order is determined by speed: slowest first and fastest last. “In practical terms, I like to follow the rule of keeping the vehicle behind you in sight at all times,” says Wagner. This is assuming the dust isn’t too severe—in those situations, he stops at every crossroad so the vehicle behind knows where to go.

Williams places slower vehicles or less confident drivers in the middle or toward the front, while those who can quickly catch up should be positioned toward the rear. The rear vehicle can have the toughest driving requirements, Kurt says, as “it grows increasingly more difficult to keep the convoy complete as the length and number of vehicles increases, particularly on crowded highways with sporadic passing opportunities.” While you may think this could lead to slower movement, this convoy order increases the efficiency of group travel by not having to wait for someone who missed a turn or stopped for fuel without communicating with the rest of the group.

As with any “group project,” knowing the part each member plays helps with communication, expectation management, and teamwork.

If you’re traveling in an overland convoy with big rigs (MAN trucks, Ivecos, etc.) or trucks with trailers, try to give the drivers enough warning before the next announced turn. While these vehicles are highly capable, they aren’t as agile as a stock Toyota 4Runner or Jeep that can easily turn on a dime. It takes time to redirect the inertia of a heavy truck.

Eglė Gerulaitytė and Jurga Zukauskaite run Big Little Rides, a women’s adventure and motorcycle tour company of-

Opposite: Taking breaks to stretch the legs or grab a snack helps boost morale. | Dusty tracks—like this one on the Lagunas Route in Bolivia—require leaving ample space between vehicles. | Keeping an eye on the vehicle behind you ensures the convoy remains together, no matter the terrain. | Opening page: Effective radio communication between the first and last vehicles keeps a tight and safe convoy.

fering group experiences in Spain, Croatia, Portugal, and Morocco. Knowing that participants’ skill levels vary, Gerulaitytė says the number one rule is to avoid playing catch up and keep up. “Trying to keep up with faster riders is exhausting, unsafe, and sucks all the joy out of riding,” she says. “We ask everyone to ride at their own pace and ability, and if there’s a big contrast in skill level, we’re happy to split the group into an espresso and a cappuccino one.”

Gerulaitytė also emphasizes the importance of keeping a safe distance between riders. This is especially significant when tackling off-pavement obstacles or when visibility is poor. During Big Little Rides tours, Gerulaitytė reminds riders to stay focused and keep an eye on their mirrors. “Hitting that open road or off-road trails someplace epic is exhilarating, and we understand it’s easy to get distracted by the views and the adventure unfolding right before your tires, but staying alert and keeping a safe distance from each other is absolutely key.”

If you are traveling someplace new, it often feels like a barrage of external stimuli is competing for your attention. Monstrous stacks of hay in the bed of an old Hilux! Camels! Vespas splitting lanes! A waterfall! Oh, wow—a stunning mountaintop cathedral! Often, slow and steady ultimately wins the race.

MINIMIZE IMPACT

Traveling in a group may mean more people and vehicles, but it doesn’t have to mean additional impact. In fact, it’s possible to leave places better than you found them. Staying on previously laid tracks, traveling lightly and in small groups, running lower tire pressures, and engaging 4WD where you can to limit track damage minimizes our footprint on the places we want to return to in the future.

Our responsibility for minimizing impact extends to our campfire practices. It’s crucial to respect fire bans, leave standing trees untouched, use established fire rings where allowed, and keep fires small and free of plastic or foil-lined wrappers. Equally important is ensuring the fire is completely extinguished and all litter and human waste (when possible) are packed out. Consider bringing gloves and large garbage bags to clean up any trash you may encounter left by others.

FACTOR IN FUEL STOPS AND SNACK BREAKS

No award is presented for the least amount of restroom stops or food consumed on an overland trip. Regular breaks allow you to rest and refocus, stretch your legs, build camaraderie, and prevent driver fatigue. If leading, Wagner finds it useful to let the rest of the group know how long the break will be. If everyone else is eating, using the restroom, or drinking water, this is the time when you should be, too.

Convoy rules and responsibilities can vary. Many 4WD groups and Land Rover clubs create their own official convoy procedures for trip participants.

Of course, life isn’t perfect, so sometimes it is necessary to engage “mode push” or make quick fuel stops to optimize timing. If we’re looking to make up time or need to cover a large distance via highway on Expedition Overland trips, the team often carries out 90-minute driving stints with efficient fuel or restroom stops in between (no dilly-dallying in the snack aisle), which works well.

If you’re in charge of trip planning or leading the group, be aware of the planning fallacy when estimating travel distance and time; it’s a common human tendency to underestimate how long a future task will take. As Scott Brady points out in “The Principles of Overlanding” (Spring 2024), “Plan for fewer miles traveled due to road closures, mechanical issues, fuel availability, driver fatigue, serendipity, and more. Expect that travel will not go as planned, and you will never be disappointed.”

There’s something special about traveling with friends—it’s just good fun. | “When a group of riders come[s] together for an adventure, magic happens—but, inevitably, the skill and experience level may vary in a group setting.” - Eglė Gerulaitytė

THE SCIENTIFIC EXPLORATION SOCIETY

INSPIRING AND SUPPORTING FUTURE GENERATIONS OF EXPLORERS AND RESEARCHERS. OVERLAND

When we read about Darién Gap expeditions, we tend to focus on the immense undertaking of the crossing from a four-wheel-drive perspective. But for Colonel John Blashford-Snell, the expedition leader responsible for the first crossing of the Darién Gap with a team of Range Rovers in 1971-72, the mission also focused on plants, animals, and people.

The British explorer admits he walked away from the Darién expedition strongly committed to the protection of wildlife, fauna, flora, and their environments. “I was horrified by the destruction of the rainforest and spread of disease from outsiders to the indigenous people,” he explains. Fortunately, the Scientific Exploration Society (SES) was already underway and celebrated his love of exploration, challenge, conservation, and education on a global scale.

Founded in 1969 by Blashford-Snell and colleagues, the SES is a registered charity that aims to “advance the frontiers of scientific exploration while advocating for the preservation of biodiversity, indigenous cultures, and ecosystems.” A meeting place for pioneers with a purpose, the SES focuses on mentorship, funding, training, endorsement, and providing a platform for the findings of young explorers and scientists.

As the longest-running scientific exploration organization in the world, the SES has led, funded, and supported over 200 expeditions since its inception. Wings of Survival, an SES-endorsed expedition for 2024, will see ecologist Dr. Timm Döbert and endurance athlete Leanna Carriere cycle and packraft from Alaska to Patagonia, following the Pacific Americas migratory bird flyway. The 30,000-kilometer, nine-month expedition will emulate the migrations of whimbrels (Numenius phaeopus), showcasing the inseparable connections between migratory birds and human endurance. The mission: to encourage progress toward the United Nations’ biodiversity target of protecting 30 percent of the planet by 2030.

Dr. Döbert notes that while financial support is not part of the project endorsement, the society has helped raise the expedition’s profile. “We received an SES flag, and the SES has posted about our efforts on their Instagram channel and tends to like and share frequently.”

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WINGS OF SURVIVAL, HEAD TO WINGSOFSURVIVAL. COM, AND FOR A LOOK AT JOHN BLASHFORD-SNELL’S PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE PROJECTS, VISIT JOHNBLASHFORDSNELL.ORG.UK.

Timm is also working on an article for SES’s digital Exploration Revealed magazine and hopes to secure an SES Explorer Talk prior to the Wings of Survival start date in June 2025.

Current and up-and-coming scientific explorers may apply for the SES Explorer Awards Program, which provides grants to those leading scientific expeditions focusing on discovery, research, and conservation in remote parts of the world. Blashford-Snell points to political problems and bureaucracy hurdles associated with making scientific collections as some of the challenges future generations face. The Explorer Awards Program assists with awards up to £7,000 for those combining science and adventure, photography, botany, filmmaking, and more.

Want to join or organize an expedition for the first time? BlashfordSnell has a few tips. “Make a thorough study of the region and its people, get fit, obtain good equipment, and see what you can do to help the people, wildlife, and environment.”

GET INVOLVED

Even if you aren’t expedition-bound, the SES offers membership benefits, including complimentary talks (with access to recordings), a VIP invitation to the Exploration Explorer Awards Presentation Evening, copies of Exploration Revealed magazine, a newsletter subscription, and the opportunity to join an expedition or project. The yearly membership investment is £65 plus a £15 joining fee. For more information on memberships, donations, legacies, and partnerships, visit ses-explore.org.

Wet, muddy conditions and mechanical issues with the Range Rovers made the Darién crossing incredibly difficult.

Chimichurri Steak Sandwich

Upscale this simple staple by using the finest meat available.

Whenwe first arrived in Buenos Aires, Argentina, we would walk the streets at night searching for the next best meal; it is the easiest way to experience and learn about a country’s culture. Argentina, typically known for its tango, mate, and striking landscapes, also boasts a great selection of food, beer, and wine. In most countries in the Southern Hemisphere, people tend to grill a great deal of meat directly over hot coals, a method aptly named barbacoa or asado, and Argentina excels at it. While exploring, we discovered the choripán (a grilled chorizo sausage in a bread roll) and the lomito sandwich (a steak sandwich). This recipe is a marriage between the two, best enjoyed with an ice-cold Quilmes or a glass of Cobos malbec. We sacrificed a lot of luxuries when we started overlanding and lived out of a rooftop tent, but there were two things I would not budge on: my down duvet and quality food. We braai a minimum of twice a week and believe having a smaller portion of choice meat is better than wasting an evening and coals on tough, sinewy, standard meat.

SERVES 4

PREP TIME 30 minutes

COOK TIME 60 minutes

EQUIPMENT Braai, charcoal, pan, whisk, utensils

1 pound picanha (sirloin cap)

Four ciabatta rolls

Two yellow or white onions

Two tomatoes

Additional salt and ground black pepper to taste

CHIMICHURRI

1 cup fresh parsley

1 cup fresh cilantro (leaves only)

3 cloves garlic

1/2 red onion

1/4 cup red wine vinegar (or lemon juice)

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1 teaspoon chili flakes, hot pepper, or a green chili

8 tablespoons olive oil

AIOLI (OPTIONAL)

3 garlic cloves

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Prepare your preferred braai with charcoal and wait until the coals are bright embers. Ensure your meat is at room temperature and salt before braaing. Place the picanha fat cap down on the grill and sear until it becomes slightly crisp. Turn the meat over and cook slowly for at least 30 minutes until your desired level of doneness.

To prepare the chimichurri, combine the parsley, cilantro, three cloves of garlic, red onion, red wine vinegar (can be substituted with lemon juice), dried oregano, a teaspoon of coarse salt, and a small green chili or chili flakes. Blend at low speed in a food processor or blender. Gradually add 8 tablespoons of olive oil until smooth, decant into a serving bowl, and place in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

As an alternative to chimichurri, you can make homemade aioli as a substitute condiment. It’s quick, easy, and quite dreamy. A cheater’s recipe for aioli is to finely crush three garlic cloves with 1/2 teaspoon of coarse salt and mix well. Add the mixture to 1/2 cup of mayonnaise and one tablespoon of lemon juice. Add two tablespoons of olive oil and whisk until smooth. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving.

While the meat rests, slice two onions and fry in a pan until golden brown. Add to buttered ciabatta rolls. Slice some tomato and place the sliced picanha and preferred condiment on top. Deliciosa!

I took another glance down at the dashboard and felt my heart leap into my mouth. The engine temperature gauge was at maximum. We had overheated a couple of times in Louisiana and Peru, though the needle had never tipped the scale. The engine could be moments from a catastrophic failure, like a burst head gasket or an erupting radiator.

I shouted out and swung straight off the road onto the rough verge. We slid to a messy stop with kitchen utensils, clothes, and books flying across the back of the van. I reached out and switched off the ignition. As I did, I felt a resistive shake followed by a loud bang. Simultaneously, smoke began to stream out from the vents and curl up the edges of the hood. We had obviously overheated, but what other damage had occurred? We leapt out of the vehicle and propped open the hood, half expecting flames to shoot up from the radiator grill. We were met by a wave of steam and molten metal.

“The radiator hose has popped off,” I said in dismay.

“How long have we been driving with it like that?” James replied.

“Hard to say, but I’m sure it’s been leaking fluid for a while now.”

I touched the undercarriage, and my hand came away dripping with warm green fluid. “A long while, by the looks of it.” I then prodded at the detached rubber pipe, recoiling from the heat.

“Well, we can’t do anything now,” James said. “We’ll have to wait until it cools and assess the damage then.”

I sat on a boulder in the sunshine, watching the steam dispel from the ruptured engine. I didn’t need extensive mechanical skills to know this was a bad spot to be in. A radiator-engine circuit is a closed system. If water and coolant had leaked out, it would all need replacing before we could even consider moving, let alone diagnose any damaged pieces of hardware.

We slid to a messy stop with kitchen utensils, clothes, and books flying across the back of the van. I felt a resistive shake followed by a loud bang. Simultaneously, smoke began to stream out from the vents and curl up the edges of the hood.

I climbed into the back of the van and pulled out a two-liter bottle of 33 percent pre-diluted coolant. To my relief, we had another bottle of unmarked coolant, though it turned out to be old and nearly empty. I put both these bottles outside and then checked our drinking water supply. I set 500 milliliters aside for us, then filled another bottle with 1.5 liters before the tank ran empty.

Meanwhile, James reattached the hose clamp using a flathead screwdriver. We then took a funnel and poured all the liquid we had into the engine. After watching every last drop run into the radiator, we turned the van on and crossed our fingers. After five minutes, we checked the reservoir and found it empty. The radiator pipes were also getting too hot, and we clearly didn’t have enough fluid.

I wasn’t sure how much coolant our van required, but I remembered a mechanic in Panama saying it was “grande.”

I guessed 6 liters, and we had only used about 4 liters. We couldn’t drive, and there was nowhere close enough to reach on foot.

There was no choice other than to flag down cars and ask for help. Route 40 is an iconic road, but it isn’t a bustling thoroughfare. Therefore, we had to wait 5-10 minutes between vehicle sightings. After being ignored by the first two trucks, a car eventually pulled over.

They kindly agreed to help and drove James to the next village. Thirty minutes later, they returned with another 5 liters of water. Unfortunately, there was no garage in that settlement, and water was all they could find. We waved the lovely Argentinian couple goodbye and turned our attention to topping up the fluid. When the reservoir was finally full and all gurgling had ceased, we drove off.

It was now close to 6:00 p.m., and the sky was darkening. It was 30 minutes to the next town, where we hoped to find an auto repair store or gas station. I wasn’t certain of the math, but I estimated the radiator was currently at 80 percent water, which meant there wasn’t enough coolant to sufficiently remove heat from the engine. We would have to drive extremely cautiously for the next 25 miles.

An hour later, we crept into the sand-blasted settlement of Barrancas under the cover of darkness. After circling the dirt streets and knocking on shuttered stores for help, we were directed to a tiny hardware store that sold small bottles of concentrated coolant. We bought 4 liters and then returned to our guesthouse to work on the camper.

Using head torches to illuminate the engine, we drained the weak mix into buckets and then added new coolant using a 50/50 ratio with water. That night, I dropped into bed exhausted and slept soundly despite the hard wind blowing a barrage of grains of sand against the vehicle. The following morning, we clambered back in the cab and joined the desert road.

At first, we stopped every 15 minutes to check the radiator. The pipes were firm and cool to the touch, so I knew the system was full and circulating. Even so, we were silent for the first two hours, expecting a breakdown at any moment.

Fortunately, the problem never came, and we made it to Ushuaia later that month. It was a triumph for all three of us—Chilly included. When we began the Pan-American, we had no idea about car mechanics. Yet, over 18 months, we had picked up pieces of information, learned about our vehicle, and applied that knowledge to help us when it mattered most.

This breakdown on Highway 40 could have signaled the end of our trip, but we persevered and completed the journey, albeit by the skin of our teeth—a feat that has since become a source of great pride. However, I’ll never forget that long desert road and the erupting radiator that nearly tripped us at the final hurdle.

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The Last Hurdle

Running on empty in Argentina.

Istoodon the desert road, hands resting on my head.

Smoke poured from the camper van’s engine. With the hood popped open, I could see the top radiator pipe had detached from the entry valve, the last dregs of coolant hissing and spluttering onto the parched ground.

We only had one bottle of pre-distilled coolant in our emergency breakdown kit that would perhaps fill a third of the engine but little more. We were also deep in the Andes of Argentina, and the next closest town for replacement parts was Malargüe, 125 miles away.

I’d been driving the Pan-American Highway with my best friend, James, for the last year and a half. Argentina was the final country of our road trip, with Ushuaia waving at the finish line. The ice roads of the Arctic Circle felt like a distant memory, and the 14 countries we had crossed in the interim were all satisfying accomplishments.

Yet the closer we got to Tierra del Fuego, the more problems we encountered. Argentina was supposed to be a relatively “easy” country to drive through. However, with deserts, high-elevation mountain passes, and thousands of miles still to go, I began to fear that this final hurdle could prove a stretch too far.

Our vehicle was a 1993 Chevrolet cargo van called “Chilly.” It was a brilliant and robust rig but not the complete package for a 30,000-mile road trip. The crimson paint was rusted through, the suspension sagged to the left, the tire tread was at its limit, the horn didn’t work, fuel efficiency was at an all-time low, and the engine was cutting out sporadically.

Of course, with the checkered flag in sight, we didn’t want to spend thousands of dollars fixing things if we could limp onward. To add to our woes, the roads had been getting pro-

gressively worse since leaving Mendoza.

Highway 40 was the only major road in the Argentinian Andes, with the next available route some 300 miles to the east. Unfortunately, with winter nipping at our heels and Patagonia staring us down, we had to push forward.

At that moment, the highway was dusty and littered with stones. The rocks ranged from the size of a ping-pong ball to giant soccer balls. Even moving slowly, the undercarriage would rattle and ping as the boulders ricocheted off the chassis. By mid-afternoon, we were tired, and the engine was running hot. The rough roads had shaken us silly all morning, and we were relieved to finally reach a stretch of tarmac. The highway wound upward, through low, dusky hills and into the mountains. The inclination kept increasing, and I could hear the engine straining.

“Can you smell burning?” James said.

I took a sniff. “Yeah, more of a dry smell, I guess.”

“Smells like burning to me.”

“Might not be us,” I gestured to an old truck chugging up ahead, “could be them.”

We fell silent, praying against all odds that the van wasn’t about to give out. We didn’t speak, but I could feel us willing the vehicle to hold on a little farther.

“It’s probably the air filter clogged with grit,” I suggested, which had happened before. At the time, we had visited a mechanic to get the engine checked, only to leave with an $80 bill and a recommendation to clean our air filter. Swallowing an uneasy feeling, I slowed the vehicle and continued driving upward as the smell worsened. Eventually, the bad signs became glaring, and I decided to pull over in the next lay-by to take a proper look.

Illustration by Michele Dallorso