Usa issue 3 compressed

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Travel ideas

Travel ideas

USA

EDITION #3

THE MAGAZINE FOR TRAVELLERS, EXPLORERS & DAYDREAMERS

USA by road

SWAP THE HIGHWAYS F OR THE BYWAYS

Escape to nature

GET LOST IN AMERICA’S WILDS

U S A E D I T I O N # 3 / Issue # 20

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE

Los Angeles / New York / Portland / Chicago / Alaska / Hawaii / New Orleans AND LOADS MORE INSIDE

BEST OF THE

USA TOP TRAVEL SPOTS FROM THE EAST COAST TO THE WEST



contents THE

USA EDITION

F E ATU RE S

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The old is new in NOLA

Go on a Southern food safari in New Orleans.

23

Four seasons in New York City

Any time of year is the best time to visit the Big Apple.

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Portland’s palate

Indulge in the city’s gourmet food and wine offerings.

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Into the wild

Endless discovery in the USA’s national parks.

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The Chicago comedy six-pack

The top six venues for laughs in the Windy City.

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By the byways

Explore the USA by car – four top itineraries.

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Sand and snow

In California, you can ski one day and surf the next.

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Up in the air

Get a unique vantage point of the USA: from above.

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Hidden Hawaii

There’s more to the island state than beaches.

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Disney is in the detail Experience the magic of Disney.

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The last frontier

Experience New York City in spring – turn to page 23 to read more.

Go wild on a cruise through Alaska.

Travel ideas

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welcome

THE USA EDITION

share the love

hello

WELCOME TO THE LATEST INSTALMENT OF TRAVEL IDEAS: USA, AND OUR THIRD EDITION ABOUT THIS PERENNIALLY POPULAR DESTINATION FOR AUSSIE TRAVELLERS WITH STARS (AND STRIPES) IN THEIR EYES.

62 AT THE FRONT

06 Travel desk

All the latest travel news from the USA: find out what’s new in Washington, DC, learn about a NYC neighbourhood, and top US cocktails. Also: fun for families and eating like a local in Miami, Florida.

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08 Postcard 10 My city

Four locals tell us their favourite things to do in their city, from LA and Seattle to Nashville and San Francisco.

R EGU L AR S

86 Making memories

Our Travel Experts reveal their favourite USA travel memories, among locals who know their country best.

92 Get social

We’ve gathered some of our favourite pics posted by you, the travellers, on Instagram with the hashtag #openmyworld.

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Front cover and contents photos: Discover Los Angeles, Getty Images; iStock Front cover image of Toroweap Overlook, north rim of the Grand Canyon, Arizona, USA

Take in an extraordinary view of an iconic destination: the beautiful and historic city of Boston, Massachussets.

With 50 states to inspire your wanderlust and myriad ways to explore America, the USA continues to offer new experiences in both favourite destinations and emerging hotspots. From an intimate guide to New York City through the four seasons, to a surf-and-ski odyssey in California, cruising Alaska or embarking on a road trip along scenic highways, in these pages we showcase all that’s great about the States. Whether you want to tick off world-famous sights in well-known cities or immerse yourself in music, food, entertainment or adventure capitals, we’ve got your USA holiday planning inspiration right here. There’s truly something for everyone, from families to friends and couples – the hardest part will be choosing where to go first. Be sure to check out ‘My City’ on page 10 for local expert advice on what to see and do in Los Angeles, Seattle, San Francisco and Nashville, and ‘My Favourite’ on page 88 for holiday highlights from our Travel Experts and locals. Happy reading!

READ MORE At Flight Centre, we’re always ready to offer advice for that next trip. Visit our online content hub to read stories of incredible adventures, luxurious cruises and out-of-this-world experiences. flightcentre.com.au/travel-news

e Read online, anytim SNAP IT We love seeing where in the world your travels take you. Simply snap your pics and share them on Instagram with the hashtag #openmyworld, and you could be featured in one of our upcoming issues.

DOWNLOAD IT The USA edition of Travel ideas, as well as previous issues, is available to download from the Flight Centre website. Download past issues of the magazine at flightcentre.com.au/ travel-ideas.

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Tom Walley, E XECU TI VE G EN ER AL MANAG ER

Travel ideas Travel ideas magazine is produced by Hardie Grant Media for Flight Centre.

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FLIGHT CENTRE

HARDIE GRANT MEDIA

SUB-EDITOR Tiffany Eastland

HEAD OF CREATIVE AND CONTENT Luke Wheatley

DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR

PROOFREADER Claire Hey

EDITORS Anna Howard,

PUBLISHER Alison Crocker

Cassandra Laffey

Clare Brundle

ART DIRECTOR Dan Morley DESIGNER Luke Atkinson

MANAGING EDITOR Mitch Brook

PRINTER Bluestar Web

EDITOR Tatyana Leonov

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine, no responsibility can be accepted by the publisher for errors or omissions, and in particular no responsibility can be accepted for the quality of goods and services, including prices quoted or errors. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, either electronically or conventionally, without written permission from the publisher and Flight Centre is strictly prohibited. All images supplied, unless otherwise stated. Tour itineraries, dates and availability can change. Talk to a Flight Centre Travel Expert for the latest options.

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travel desk 02. The Verbena Cocktail at the Chandelier Bar at the Cosmopolitan in Las Vegas

NEWS & EVENTS

TRAVEL DESK

THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Le Labo perfumery; Nolita restaurant The Butcher’s Daughter; Italian eatery Parm; interactive lighting exhibits at Artechouse.

Nolita: discover a NYC neigbourhood

What’s new in

WASHINGTON, DC? The capital city of the United States is renowned for its existing attractions: the Capitol Building, National Mall, White House and Smithsonian Institutions are perennial favourites. So what’s next? While Washington, DC, is already home to many museums – 17 under the Smithsonian Institute alone – but there’s always room for more. In June 2017, Artechouse opened, a gallery focused on presenting immersive art experiences (art you can touch!) relating to music, film, theatre and technology. Visitors can stroll hallways lined with lights that react to their presence and use touchscreens with images that flow like water in the XYZT: Abstract Landscapes exhibition (until September 3). The Museum of the Bible, set to house one of the largest privately held collections of ancient documents, plus thousands of other artefacts, will also open in November 2017. If museums aren’t your thing, try the Game of Thrones pop-up bar, located northeast of Downtown DC (until August 28).

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Nolita (short for ‘North of Little Italy’) is the cosiest neighbourhood in downtown Manhattan that you haven’t heard of yet. Bounded by the storied Bowery Street of the Lower East Side, bustling Houston Street, and the iconic neighbourhoods of Chinatown and Little Italy, Nolita is a melting pot of the city’s most historic and quintessential neighbourhoods. There you’ll find upscale boutiques and shops nestled behind quaint and inviting red brick facades, like the Le Labo perfume outpost on Elizabeth Street, which offers a bespoke fragrance experience. For special trinkets stop by Love Adorned, a handmade-jewellery haven. And for truly unique and charming vintage finds, visit

The Quality Mending Co. on Prince Street. Nolita is comprised of momand-pop shops, tree-lined streets full of beautiful people, hidden gardens, and five- to 10-table restaurants unsigned and hidden off sidewalks and down stairs – so each amazing meal feels more like an unforgettable experience. Check out Parm for a classic plate of penne scampi or fusilli Bolognese, or The Butcher’s Daughter for delicious vegetarian dishes such as watermelon ricotta salad or vegetarian charcuterie. Grab a coffee at Cafe Gitane and stroll down Elizabeth, Prince, or Spring streets and enjoy the romantic charm of the area. No matter where you end up in Nolita, you’re bound to find the most special versions of New York City’s effortlessly cool and vibrant energy.

THIS IMAGE AND BELOW: The Verbena cocktail; Chandelier Bar, where the Verbena is made.

Cocktail corner Photos: Getty Images, supplied. Words: Michelle Khouri, Tatyana Leonov & Lauren Steele

Sit back and read up on the latest and hottest news from the USA

When a glass of wine or a schooner won’t do, there’s a cocktail with your name on it. In cities like New York and Las Vegas, your options will seem infinite. Smaller cities too are embracing our re-found love for cocktails, offering aficionados and novices alike a plethora of choices. You could spend years exploring America’s cocktail scene and still have more to go, but to get you started, here are three cocktails you should try:

01. Goody Two Shoes at the Dead Rabbit in NYC

A mix of Irish whiskey, mescal, Vermouth, Amaro, dried chilli pepper and pomegranate, this tantalising mix will assure you that Dead Rabbit is indeed the world’s best bar. It’s a modern take on an Irish bar with a cool cocktail factor thrown in, but the vibe and the incredible drinks keep the crowds coming. Drinks span all decent spirits with whiskeys given plenty of airplay, but the cocktail menu is the star of the show (you’ll find ample whiskey-based cocktails if that tickles your fancy). There’s plenty of ‘good’ in the Goody Two Shoes, and shouldn’t we all have some ‘good’ inside us?

Once you taste the Verbena, life will look a little brighter. That’s because this lemon verbena and ginger-infused cocktail tastes absolutely amazing. Chef-mixologist Mariena Mercer is the inventor, who was inspired to concoct a creation using lemon verbena. When the herb went out of season he stopped serving his innovation, but evidently word got around and visitors kept requesting the legendary drink. Mercer tweaked the recipe (he added an edible flower – the Szechuan button – that he says heightens the taste of the ingredients) and now guests can drink it yearround, whether it appears on the menu or not (hint: just ask for it if it’s not listed).

03. The Legendary Sex Panther at the Atomic Lounge in Birmingham, Alabama

The Atomic Lounge opened at the start of 2017, the brainchild of hotshot bartender Feizal Valli and his wife Rachael Roberts. The retro decor might grab your attention first, but then the cocktails (some named after locals) take over. The Legendary Sex Panther – bourbon, blackstrap rum, cynar, bitters and demerara sugar – is set alight and served with a temporary panther tattoo… because life is more fun when it’s a little off centre. If you want to shake things up further you can order a costume to wear while sipping away. Randomly marvellous indeed. Travel ideas

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travel desk Perfect for stargazing

Dine around the world

The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) is renowned for its collection of artworks, sculptures, photography, installations and all kinds of contemporary art. It’s now also celebrated for In Situ, a culinary creation that’s more exhibit than eatery. In Situ features a rotating menu, where dishes come from over 80 chefs around the globe. Three-Michelin-star chef Corey Lee curated the menu and each dish is designed to be treated as an artwork; one manager was even quoted as saying, “The easiest way to understand this restaurant

USA Today has rated the state of Nevada as the country’s best for stargazing – it has the perfect conditions, including minimal light pollution in key areas. Stargazers can head to Great Basin National Park to take in expansive views of the Milky Way, or to the township of Tonopah, where it’s possible to view over 7,000 stars with the naked eye. Take your look to the skies a step further by experiencing the mysterious: Area 51 – rumoured home of alien artefacts – is in Nevada, near the town of Rachel, a location renowned for alleged UFO sightings.

is as an art installation,” according to The New York Times. Dishes from distinguished chefs such as René Redzepi of Noma (Denmark) and Alice Waters of Chez Panisse (California) are part of the mix, and the idea behind the concept is that diners engage in the cultural aspect of sampling fine cuisine. Where else in the world can you try a lamb shank manti by Mehmet Gürs of Mikla (Istanbul), followed by wasabi lobster by Tim Raue of Restaurant Tim Raue (Berlin)? Then could come something equally as inventive and delicious from another corner of the world, perhaps culminating the meal with a moist chocolate cake topped with almond cream and bubbles, a creation by Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz (Spain).

Local flavours

Cuban Sandwiches Cuban sandwiches still reign supreme as Miami’s signature bite. A traditional Cuban starts with freshly baked and buttered Cuban bread, then a layer of yellow mustard, followed by piles of sliced Swiss cheese, pork, ham, and pickles. Finally, the sandwich is pressed in a plancha (grill).

Fun for families

AMERICA OFFERS A WEALTH OF EXPERIENCES FOR FAMILIES, FROM THEME PARK JAUNTS AND BEACH GETAWAYS TO EPIC ROAD TRIPS AND LUXURY ESCAPES

Start in Los Angeles, where you’re close to days of fun at Disneyland, Universal Studios and Hollywood. Then you’ve got Santa Monica and Venice Beach for lazing in the sun; and basketball fans should schedule an LA Lakers basketball game at the Staples Center. Next, take the family on a tubing or rafting adventure on Truckee River in Lake Tahoe; or rough it a little while camping at Big Sur.

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02. Colorado

Rocky Mountain National Park is the place to go for horse riding, rafting and hiking – and, in winter, the skiing can’t be missed. In Denver kids can explore museums, learn about Colorado’s Gold Rush history and run amok in the amusement parks. Adults can also run amok – the shopping downtown is great, the food options are plentiful… then there’s the craft beer and live music scene come nightfall.

Eat like a local: Miami

03. Florida

Kick off your Florida adventure at the Wizarding World of Harry Potter at Universal Studios Orlando, a magical destination where real life and fiction are fused into one epic adventure. Then take the kids to Walt Disney World and the Kennedy Space Center. To finish on a relaxing note, the Florida Keys are perfect for lazy swims in calm waters; or Sarasota is known for its idyllic white-sand beaches.

Photos: iStock, supplied

01. California

FOOD

It was only in the last six years or so that Miami’s culinary reputation began cutting ties with its strictly Cuban-cuisine stereotype. Today, the city – more South American than American South – is home to diverse restaurants that honour their Latin heritage by weaving regional ingredients creatively throughout their menus. The result is a culinary culture of perennial fusion – and we can’t get enough.

01. Beaker & Gray

Equal parts drink den and culinary cavern, this eatery features Latin influences on its ‘New American’ menu. Try the cauliflower bowl tossed with bacon, queso fresco and citrus (above) paired with a cocktail from the vast selection.

02. Pubbelly Sushi

You’ll find the unicorn of menus at this beloved Miami Beach gem – not one item is a miss. To start, order chef-owner José Mendín’s signature dishes, including the tuna pizza, butter crab roll and tostones con ceviche.

03. CVI.CHE 105

A journey through the menu at this downtown eatery is like a trek through Peru. Traditional dishes such as tacu lomo and frejoles con seco are a delight, but the ceviche is what gave this restaurant its culinary celebrity status.

travel ideas

Empanadas Nearly every Latin culture has its own take on an empanada, which is the region’s version of an Italian calzone or Chinese dumpling. Argentine empanadas, for instance, are tasty pockets of oven-baked dough stuffed with well-seasoned ground beef, sliced olives and hard-boiled eggs.

Cortaditos Start your day with every Miamian’s favourite breakfast beverage: the cortadito. This Cuban coffee is made with dark roast beans that are injected with sugar while the piping-hot espresso is in its pitcher, and then topped with a splash of steamed milk.

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P O STC A R D

POSTCARD

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Photo: Getty Images

Boston

The capital of the state of Massachussets, Boston is one of the oldest cities in North America. It’s steeped in history, and home to diverse neighbourhoods including Beacon Hill and Back Bay. Visitors can see the Red Sox play baseball at Fenway Park, walk the historic Freedom Path, or admire the architecture and seasonal colours, especially in autumn (or fall) as pictured.

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MY CITY

Splash through Seattle’s sights

Take in the best view of the Seattle skyline and its Space Needle from Kerry Park.

SEATTLE’S SALTWATER CENTRE SHOWS OFF THE CITY’S QUIRKY BEST Words: Naomi Tomky, Seattle local, guidebook author and travel writer

MY CITY

MEET FOUR LOCALS PROUD TO TELL YOU MORE ABOUT THEIR HOME CITY – FROM ARTISAN COFFEE IN LA TO INDIE PERFORMANCE VENUES IN NASHVILLE 10

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Photo: Getty Images

WELCOME TO

Seattle’s rain is famous, but it draws its heart and soul from the waters of Elliott Bay. The city’s playground, highway, and most scenic setting offers an ideal introduction for any visitor. One of the best views over the Bay comes from the century-old Pike Place Market’s brand-new MarketFront addition. Stroll through the shops when the locals do: early, before the crowds arrive, while the fishmongers set up. Order a crab cocktail for breakfast at Jack’s Fish Spot and eat it as the saltwater scent breezes up from below. Skip the line at the world’s first Starbucks and take your historic coffee at Japanese bathhouse-turned-Panama Hotel Tea and Coffee House in the International District. Then play with a different kind of history: the vintage arcade games at the Seattle Pinball Museum. For lunch, sit down to the most popular comfort food in town: Vietnamese noodle soup, at the boatshaped dive Pho Bac or with cocktails at the modern Ba Bar. Spend your afternoon in the Bay – hop on the King County Water Taxi or take a jaunt on a kayak tour. Toast to your boating success with a local beer and shave ice from Hawaiian-themed fish shack Marination Ma Kai. For dinner, make your way to Eden Hill, where Northwest ingredients like the giggle-inducing giant clam, geoduck, meet avant-garde cooking techniques. But stop on the way at Kerry Park for your souvenir photo of the Seattle skyline, including the famous Space Needle.

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MY CITY

Explore Los Angeles, surf to city

FROM BEACH BREAKS TO URBAN ARTS, EXPERIENCE LOS ANGELES WEST SIDE AND EAST Words: Megan Snedden, LA local, travel writer and photographer

La La Land has long been a hotbed of entertainment, arts and music. Now more than ever, though, the sprawling metropolis can’t be ignored as new public transit lines improve accessibility, and once-forgotten urban areas enter a modernday renaissance. First thing, head to Santa Monica and collect a rented beach cruiser bicycle for the duration of your stay. Cruise the boardwalk then grab a matcha croissant and latte at Intelligentsia Coffee in Venice. Afterwards, peruse Abbot Kinney Boulevard and embrace your inner flower child at bohemian boutique Tumbleweed & Dandelion, or hunt for vintage finds at The Perfect Piece. For those who want to hit the waves, there are many companies that have you covered for lessons and rentals. Afterwards, hop on board the latest Metro Expo Line extension, which now makes it possible to get from the beach to Downtown in just 45 minutes. That means you could venture to

100th anniversary, so it’s abuzz with culinary and music events. A Sunday morning at ROW DTLA isn’t a bad idea. The revitalised warehouse-meetsretail space hosts Smorgasburg (an eclectic, once-weekly food bazaar) vis-a-vis trendy, industrial storefronts. After getting your fill of Sichuan noodles and Peruvian tacos, head to the Arts District where the craft beer scene is booming, and enjoy a round of cornhole – a lawn game that involves throwing a bag of corn at a board with a hole in the far end – at the new Arts District Brewing Co. Then wander about At Mateo, a new grit-to-glam converted retail space. It’s right on the pulse of the burgeoning gallery scene, so you can close the day with creative inspiration.

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CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Street art in LA’s Arts District; locals walk the popular Abbot Kinney Boulevard; food trucks on Abbot Kinney; the skate park in Venice Beach; foodies feast at Grand Central Market; jogging the waterfront in Santa Monica. Photos: Discover Los Angeles

the Arts District for brunch at the new farmto-table eatery Manuela, peruse modern art at the recently opened Hauser & Wirth gallery (where Manuela is housed), then make it back to Santa Monica in time for a sunset cocktail at a rooftop bar. Downtown LA is poised to get even cooler when Warner Music relocates to the historic Ford Factory. So it’s worth it to stay city side, especially with plenty of new places to rest your head. For night owls, Birds & Bees is the latest spot for surreptitious drinks and jazz – the speakeasy hides inside a former LAPD gym, close to another Prohibitionstyle haunt, The Edison. Before hitting the town, grab a quick bite at Grand Central Market. This year the food hall celebrates its

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MY CITY

Stroll San Francisco

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The Painted Ladies houses facing Alamo Square; inside the de Young Museum; outside the de Young, in Golden Gate Park; the Conservatory of Flowers; boutiques in Hayes Valley.

SEE THE BAY CITY FROM LUSH GARDENS TO RUM COCKTAILS

Any recommendation I make about San Francisco starts the way I like to explore: walking, with a good mix indoors and outdoors, and begun with brunch. But before you get started, a few essentials will serve you well on your San Franciscan day. Pack a light jacket and sunscreen, in case of weather changes; wear shoes you can walk in for a while; and download a ride-share app such as Uber or Lyft, which will help in your exploration. First: brunch. Satisfy a hungry belly by heading to Cassava on Balboa Street, right above Golden Gate Park. Try the ‘New American’-style menu, or maybe go for the Japanese breakfast, with miso soup, kimchi, marinated fish and sesame brussels sprouts. After a feed a short stroll through the greenery of Golden Gate Park will take you to the Conservatory of Flowers. This is one of my favourite spots in the city – it’s never crowded, architecturally beautiful and costs very little (about A$10.55). Before you go in, listen out for musicians who are often playing in the underpass that leads to the conservatory. A popular spot for saxophonists, the free acoustic is a lovely bonus before entering.

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The hyper-oxygenated air that you’ll find inside the conservatory is a natural relaxant alongside exotic plants, ponds and wildflowers from all over. Currently its Butterflies and Blooms exhibition transforms part of the conservatory into an enclosed area where hundreds of butterflies can be observed and interacted with as they flutter about. It’s perfect for photos and a little whimsy in the day.

After you’ve finished greening out, take the 10-minute walk back through the park to the de Young Museum, where you can see exhibitions including The Summer of Love Experience: Art, Fashion, and Rock & Roll (until August 20, 2017), and explore the city’s psychedelic history of film, photography and costume, as it defined the Free Love generation. Other top picks are its vast collection of oceanic art and American artist displays featuring the work of Mark Rothko and Georgia O’Keeffe. Before you leave, don’t forget to scale the museum’s observation tower to see a spectacular view over San Francisco. Aided by the fact there are almost no tall buildings, it shows off a 360-degree panorama of its neighbourhoods and iconic architectural style. You could spend an entire day just in Golden Gate Park, but it’s time for a little shopping. A short car ride (remember the ride-share apps) will take you to the beautiful neighbourhood of Hayes Valley. Known for its Francophile aesthetic, there’s a bevy of eating, drinking and shopping to be done. My favourites centre around Hayes Street – Azalea, Welcome Stranger and Steven Alan all have stylish finds.

Photos: Getty Images, iStock

Words: James De Angelis, Australian expat in San Francisco and product designer at Pinterest

Shopping can be thirsty work, and Biergarten is conveniently located next door to all the action. This spot catches the Californian sun, as its seating is all outdoors. Laid out with long picnic tables (and sometimes longer lines) it’s great for both groups and couples. Try ordering a bratwurst and washing it down with a litre stein of beer. By this time the sun is likely setting and you’ll be glad of the light jacket you’ve brought as San Francisco begins to transform from its evergreen spring to chill-central. Walking over from Biergarten you will arrive at Nojo Ramen – excellent noodles for a reasonable price. The sensible eater should try to get there before 7pm: on Fridays and weekends it’s known to get busy shortly thereafter. I get the Chicken Paitan Tomato every time and never regret it. Ramen in belly, the final stop is a cocktail at the infamous Smuggler’s Cove. At first you may wonder why you’re at a pirate-themed cocktail bar, but after sharing a Volcano Bowl (or other rum-based drinks) it will make more sense. My best advice is not to stay here for too long as you might not make it out. But that’s all part of the adventure, right? Travel ideas

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MY CITY

Nashville’s Southern hospitality

LEFT TO RIGHT: The bright lights of Nashville’s downtown honky tonk; performers at Robert’s Western World; a pedal tavern full of revellers makes its way down the street; the renowned Bluebird Cafe performance space.

EXPLORE THE MUSIC OF THIS CITY IN THE STATE OF TENNESSEE, THE ‘HOME OF COUNTRY MUSIC’

RIGHT: Clare Bowen performs with her fiancé Brandon Robert Young.

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There’s a lot to do in Nashville. It’s a really wonderful place where you can disappear and go on a hike, or you can get right into the thick of it downtown. You’re always 15 minutes from everything, and it has that beautiful Southern hospitality. The Bluebird Cafe, which is one of the world’s pre-eminent listening rooms, is just beautiful. It doesn’t look like much – it’s in a little strip mall, between a barber shop and a clothing store or something – but there’s usually a line out the door and down the street, so book your tickets a month in advance to avoid disappointment. There’s also the Grand Ole Opry, a weekly country-music stage concert, where my fiancé (Brandon Robert Young) and

Copy edited from interview with Mitch Brook. Photos: Alamy, Getty Images

Words: Clare Bowen, singer, Nashville local, and actor in the Nashville TV series

I have the best time. The Opry is a truly wonderful Nashville experience. I’ve just seen Steve Martin and Martin Short there, so it’s not only musicians who perform there, either. There’s also the Ryman Auditorium downtown, a premier music venue for concerts and events. Join a tour, or sneak out around the corner and end up on a honky-tonk (bars with live country music) hop. My favourite is Robert’s Western World, but there are so many. The fried bologna sandwich at Robert’s is something to write home about, or so I’ve been told (I can’t eat meat or gluten). Nashville has also become a foodie haven, and in Germantown, not far from

downtown, there’s a place called 5th & Taylor, which does a great brunch. Rolf and Daughters is beautiful too, but for breakfast I especially like Biscuit Love and The Perch. Nashville also has these really strange pedal taverns, rather funny looking long, skinny vehicles, which double as bars. Surrounding the bar are little bicycle seats, where people laugh their hind ends off as they travel down the street, drinking whatever they feel like. Radnor Lake is stunning. Be sure to hike the trails and up into the woods, where you can usually find lots of wildlife. It’s a beautiful place, especially in the springtime when you can spot little baby deer sitting

in the grass (and their mothers waiting protectively nearby in case you get too close to them!). I love this city, it wraps its arms around you and you never want to leave. Clare Bowen is touring Australia in July. Also look out for her first solo single, Love Steps In, released earlier in 2017. Season five of Nashville is airing throughout 2017.

Bright lights in the big city

The Travel Experts at your local Flight Centre can help you plan and get to all these cities. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

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O FO

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The old is new in NOLA

C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE

The streets of NOLA are abuzz with action – jazz venues, restaurants and bars bring flocks of visitors. The food at Josephine Estelle is done the New Orleans way, with accountrements such as tuna ceviche or peanut agrodolce. Chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman from Josephine Estelle. Get a taste of farmto-table Southern food at Coquette. Common cocktails such as the classic Sazerac, adapted here at Arnaud’s French 75 Bar, started in New Orleans. Try an alternative take on the classic po’boy at Killer Poboys. Variations include versions with prawns or sweet potato and pecan spread. Commander’s Palace is renowned for high-quality service – and for their lunchtime cocktail deal: martinis for 25 cents.

EATING AND DRINKING YOUR WAY THROUGH NEW ORLEANS IS THE ULTIMATE WAY TO EXPERIENCE NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA (OR, NOLA)

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Photos: iStock, supplied

Words: Bao Ong


NEW ORLEANS FOOD

New Orleans turns a leaf

In a city known for its excess, New Orleans doesn’t shy away from meat, especially iterations of pork at various boucheries dotting the restaurant scene. You’d be hard-pressed to find someone who would say “New Orleans” and “vegetarian” in the same sentence. But at a time when healthy eating is trendier than ever in the USA, vegetarian and vegan options are multiplying, even with classic dishes such as po’boys and gumbo. The riffs on favourites typically made with proteins are filled with plant-based ingredients. It’s clear that rich, meat-centric cooking is no longer the only star in town. Even at top restaurants like Shaya, where the slowcooked lamb and short rib knish are crowd-pleasers, vegetables are celebrated (and in demand).

Images of moody jazz clubs, the French Quarter’s quaint streets, Cafe Du Monde’s beignets and Mardi Gras partiers throwing beads… these are just a few of the timeless memories linked with a city that still feels like a secret: New Orleans. Tennessee Williams, the famed American playwright, once said, “America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.” Whether you choose to measure this statement by culture, architecture, music or food, it’s clear that there’s a timeless quality when you land in this sultry city steeped in both Southern American and French influences. As New Orleans rebuilt itself for more than a decade following Hurricane Katrina’s devastation, the bayou charm continued to thrive – especially through its restaurants and bars. No other city in the USA is as unabashedly proud of its indulgence when it comes to food and drink. It doesn’t matter whether you order a third round of expertly made Sazeracs or a midnight snack of po’boys, New Orleans is a city tailor-made to experience through a culinary lens. It also happens to be the best way to understand why the ‘Big Easy’ is consistently one of America’s top food destinations.

W H E R E TO G E T I T:

Even in the hip Bywater neighbourhood it’s still surprising when you find a place like the art-filled Satsuma Cafe, and order a green juice. After one sip you’ll also want to order a raw vegetable salad (with a roasted pear and brie cheese melt on top, of course, because you’re in New Orleans after all). You won’t find a run-of-the-mill po’boy at Killer Poboys. Instead of a sandwich teeming with fried oysters, the restaurant’s new-school renditions include a bun filled with roasted sweet potato, a blackeyed pea and pecan spread, pickled shallots, and wilted greens – and it’s just as satisfying. Located in the Lower Garden District, Seed is one of the city’s most popular veggie-friendly establishments. The vegan gumbo, taco salad and artichoke cakes are all hits.

Everything old is new again

Southern food has undergone a revival across the USA. Cities such as Charleston, Nashville and Louisville have become hot destinations for travellers and foodies alike. As a result, the popularity of this soulful style of cooking means that the fried chicken you order in a hipster-filled cafe in Chicago, could taste just as good as the hole-in-the-wall joint you scoped out in Greenville, South Carolina. But New Orleans stands out on its own and no city is quite like it, or each of its 17 wards. It is a place that embraces its history with pride in all the French and Southern influences, from the jazz musicians performing in seemingly random marches down a cobblestone street to the influx of immigrants who have adapted the local cuisine as part of their own food. You’ll find that chefs are putting a new spin on Southern cuisine that’s refreshing and, at times, completely unexpected. It’s what New Orleans does best: turn the old new again.

Staying cool in New Orleans

You’ll no doubt come across tourists imbibing on the streets across this city with their oversized drinking vessels, but New Orleans’ true drinking culture is one of sophistication. From the Sazerac to the Ramos Gin Fizz, many of the most popular drinks served today in craft cocktail bars across the USA originated here. A cocktail mecca dating back to the 1800s, the Big Easy’s connections with France and other European communities meant there was access to Cognacs and wines. Bitters and exotic fruits from the West Indies ended up in the port city too, and whiskey snaked its way down from Kentucky. The drinks from this era are still popular today. Tales of the Cocktail, the premier cocktail festival attended by countless industry professionals, takes over the city every year. From classic favourites that are the bedrock of New Orleans, to hipster wine bars, any cocktail enthusiast would be well served across the city’s many bars.

W H E R E TO G E T I T:

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Photos: Astrid y Gaston; Maido

W H E R E TO G E T I T: Photos: Supplied

In the industrial-chic dining room of Toups South, you’ll find seemingly classic Southern dishes, but chef Isaac Toups puts his refreshing spin on a number of grilled and stewed meats. The Heritage Pork Boudin is a dish you need to try. Josephine Estelle does Italian food the New Orleans way. Order one of the pastas – such as the Mafalde with ‘Maw Maw’s’ gravy, or tuna ceviche with peanut agrodolce – and see how Italian food can be so much more than a tomato sauce. Stop into Coquette when strolling along Magazine Street and you won’t be disappointed. Chef Michael Stoltzfus’ tasting menu combines the best of farm-to-table cooking with Southern fare.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Bartender Chris Hanna of Arnaud’s French 75 Bar; the interior at Josephine Estelle; chef Isaac Toups of Toups South puts a spin on classic Southern dishes; the team at Coquette, including chef Michael Stoltzfus (second from right); coffee-cured cobia at Coquette.

In a town full of talented bartenders, Arnaud’s Restaurant boasts Chris Hannah behind the bar. Donning a white tuxedo, Hannah will serve you a refreshing rum-based drink called the Bywater. Once you walk into the wine shop at Bacchanal, don’t hesitate to ask questions of the helpful staff. You then bring your rosé to the backyard, grab a table, and enjoy live music as you sip on wine all afternoon. The service is impeccable and old school at Commander’s Palace. But if you’re looking to indulge in cocktails, martinis at lunch are 25 cents… no kidding. Travel ideas

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NEW ORLEANS FOOD

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Taceaux Loceaux offers a NOLA-themed twist on street tacos; try the hotdogs at the Diva Dog food truck; chef Ericka Lassair of Diva Dawg; a delicious example of the fare offered by Taceaux Loceaux.

For a city with its distinct neighbourhoods and visitors walking from one area to the next, checking out the food truck scene is a true treat. But it’s only in recent years that New Orleans’ food truck scene has grown, seeing a surge when restrictions were eased by the government a few years ago. Following these food trucks via social media is often the best way to go. At one end of the city you can find Cajun and Creole dishes, and if you follow another fleet you will find some of the best tacos around. It doesn’t matter if it’s Mardi Gras or a weekday lunch in the middle of the sweltering summer months, there’s bound to be a food truck open for business. W H E R E TO G E T I T:

Taceaux Loceaux helped jumpstart the food truck craze in New Orleans with its authentic street tacos (also, don’t forget the avocado fries). Follow the team on social media to find the latest stop.

E X P E RT T I P

ANGELA FERNANDEZ, FLIGHT CENTRE DANDENONG PLAZA, VIC

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Many food truck vendors eventually aim to open a bricks-andmortar restaurant. Not Diva Dawg Food Truck, which did the opposite and serves gourmet Creole-style hotdogs. A sizeable Vietnamese population in New Orleans means locals are well versed on where to find bowls of pho (beef noodle soup) and banh mi (Vietnamese baguette sandwiches). Saigon Slim’s puts a fusion touch on the cuisine, with dishes such as bananas Foster spring rolls, kimchi fries and corned beef banh mi on offer.

Hungry? Travel to New Orleans!

Visit your local Flight Centre for travel advice and the latest travel deals to visit New Orleans, Louisiana. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

“If you’re after an authentic Southern smokin’ barbecue, head over to The Joint, a local favourite in NOLA. Located within the residential

area, away from the touristy Bourbon Street, it’s a true hidden gem. The brisket and ribs are simply outstanding; definitely worth a trip (or two!).”

Photos: Supplied

New Orleans on the move


C L O C KW I S E FROM TOP LEFT

NEW YORK CITY

Foliage on the High Line park turning for the autumn; skating on the Bryant Park Ice Rink in winter; spring cherry blossoms in Brooklyn Botanic Garden; bright sunny days at the Brooklyn Flea Market.

FOUR SEASONS IN

NEW YORK THIS CITY NEVER CEASES TO SURPRISE, NO MATTER THE TIME OF YEAR YOU VISIT

Photos: iStock, Getty Images

Words: Sam Aldenton

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NEW YORK CITY

New York is an incredible whirlwind at any time of the year. In the frostiness of winter, the city becomes a labyrinth of cosy pit stops as you navigate the streets, such as Fifth Avenue, with a sense of deja vu. No, you might not have walked them before, but you’ve undoubtedly seen them in countless Hollywood blockbusters. As spring comes out, so too do New Yorkers who walk around as though the lingering chill in the morning doesn’t exist, too excited at the prospect of warmer days and the beginning baseball season. Then, as the Big Apple starts to warm up, that’s when the rooftop parties, long weekends and outdoor cinemas begin to really bring the city to life. From Shakespeare in the Park to the US Open, there’s so much to see and do in NYC in the summer... and all year long.

C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE

Autumn

It’s when the leaves start turning golden that New York begins to hum with excitement at the prospect of cooler weather. It’s when jumpers come out (though in the USA they call them sweaters) and all of the comfort food is just warming up, starting, of course, with a pumpkin spice latte. In New York, autumn – or “fall” to the locals – also brings with it a visual feast as all of the city’s expansive parks start to paint themselves a warm palette of golden browns and deep maroons. A great way to see this take place is on the Chelsea High Line, a 2.3km stretch of

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elevated park. Built on a disused section of the New York Central Railroad, the linear park runs from the Meatpacking District to West 34th Street where you can enjoy a free walking tour, morning meditation sessions or even stargazing every Tuesday until October. To get a real taste of the season, head to the Union Square Farmers Market in the heart of downtown Manhattan. Local farmers and vintners from upstate bring their fresh produce to the city every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, with everything from vegetables, cheese and eggs to meat, fish and wine for sale. Try the fresh pumpkin bread, hot apple cider and rich hot chocolate as you stroll around and sample the local produce.

To get in the spirit of the season and venture outside of the city, a New Yorkers’ favourite thing to do is go apple picking at the start of the crisp fall season, when the apples are just ripe. Upstate in the Hudson Valley there are a number of orchards, cider mills and pumpkin patches for all of the family to enjoy. If you haven’t had enough pumpkin by this stage, then head to the famous Brooklyn Brewery in the trendy area of Williamsburg to taste some of its seasonal beers, especially the Post Road Pumpkin Ale. Hundreds of kilograms of pumpkins are blended into the mash of each batch, creating a beer with an orange-amber colour, warm pumpkin aroma, biscuity malt centre, and a crisp finish.

Photos: Alamy, iStock, Getty Images

Wander the High Line for great views, or join a yoga class. New Yorkers often head upstate to the Hudson Valley to go apple picking in autumn. Brookyln Brewery releases limitededition beers for the season. Pumpkin spice lattes are a popular drink in autumn. It’s not too cold to head out and absorb the sun in the Meatpacking District. NYC is splashed with reds and yellows in autumn. Fresh produce at Union Square Farmers Market.

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NEW YORK CITY

C L O C KW I S E FROM TOP LEFT

The vaulted ceilings of the popular Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station. Fireworks, crowds and confetti in Times Square on New Year’s Eve. Wintry, snowy Central Park. Santa stars in the Radio City Christmas Spectacular. New Yorkers brave the winter cold to skate at the Rockefeller Center. The grand interiors turn cosy during winter at Campbell Apartment Bar. Central Park blanketed in winter snow.

Photos: Alamy, iStock, Getty Images

Winter

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What a memorable time to see New York, when the city isn’t as crowded and starts to twinkle under the Christmas lights strung high above the streets. You can even watch as the Rockefeller Center switches on the lights on its colossal 21m Christmas tree above the iconic ice-skating rink and gold Prometheus statue. Or, for more room to practise your pirouettes, head to two of the city’s other stunning and equally iconic rinks, Central Park’s Wollman Rink and the more quaint Bryant Park Ice Rink. The latter, which sits next to the historic New York Public Library, is free to use if you happen to have your own skates, otherwise you can hire a pair there.

Then, just a short walk down Sixth Avenue, you can enjoy the famous Rockettes dance company perform its annual Radio City Christmas Spectacular, seen by more than 75 million people since the New York holiday tradition officially began in 1933. There is nowhere on Earth more festive than Times Square on New Year’s Eve. People from all over the world huddle together as the famous ball drop countdown builds the suspense and millions of pieces of colourful confetti rain down on the crowd below at the stroke of midnight. One of the best times to discover the glamorous old Grand Central Station is during winter, as it provides a beautiful escape from the cold outside. The station joins together New York and the

surrounding area’s different train lines in a mammoth labyrinth of secret bars and tracks. One of the most unusual clandestine features of the station is its echo chamber or ‘whispering gallery’, where you can stand on one side of a walkway, whisper into the wall, and have someone hear you on the other side thanks to the vaulted ceiling design. If adrenaline, sports and local bar culture are the way you like to get to know a city, then make sure you’re in town during the National Football League’s Super Bowl to experience one of the most important days in American sport, which happens each February. Even if you aren’t a big sports fan, ordering a basket of chicken wings, drinking a Budweiser, and soaking up the atmosphere in a warm and rowdy sports bar is an entertaining experience. Travel ideas

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NEW YORK CITY

Spring

Arguably, this is the time of year when New Yorkers are happiest. After a long winter, even the slightest rise in temperature gives the most hardened New Yorker a bit more pep in their step. As the city’s five boroughs roar to life in the early weeks of spring, it’s Brooklyn’s Botanic Garden that stands tall above the rest with its annual Cherry Blossom Festival: Sakura Matsuir. Opening in late April each year, the festival celebrates traditional and contemporary Japanese culture under the falling petals of the vast

cherry blossom garden. While it might seem odd to visit a cherry blossom garden in New York, the festival signals the start of spring to many locals who head to the enchanting garden each year, and is symbolic of the city’s many multicultural roots. For a step inside one of New York’s most well-known exports, its film industry, there’s the annual Tribeca Film Festival, which runs in mid-April and whose founders include Hollywood actor-director Robert De Niro. Beginning in 2003 in the area of Tribeca in Lower Manhattan, the festival showcases a variety of films around the world, from documentaries to shorts

and features. The well-known festival is open to the public to attend, but with a good chance you’ll spot a celebrity or two. Another way New York’s most arty residents like to enjoy the warmer weather is with a trip to nearby Randall’s Island for the annual Frieze Art Festival. Take in more than 1,000 contemporary and 20th-century artworks housed temporarily on the vivid green lawn of the island, with a background of the looming Manhattan skyline. The early May festival also makes for good people watching as a who’s who of the entertainment, art and fashion worlds all convene in one place.

C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE

New Yorkers view artwork at Frieze Art Fair. Cherry blossoms in full bloom in Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Artworks at the Frieze Art Fair in 2017 included bold photography. Spring is the first opportunity for New Yorkers to soak up the sun after winter. The Tribeca Film Festival runs in April of each year. The streets of Tribeca are home to shops, cafes and late-night hotspots, and are rumoured to have housed celebrities such as Beyoncé and Hugh Jackman.

Photos: Alamy, iStock, Getty Images

In spring New York is colourf inside and out!ul

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Travel ideas

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NEW YORK CITY

Summer

Summer in New York is something else. The buzz is palpable as the days get longer, happy hour starts earlier, and ‘summer Fridays’ begin, where many companies allow their employees to finish work around 2pm. Each weekend in New York is packed solid during the summer with many festivals and events to attend, rooftop parties to enjoy, and brunches to devour in the outdoors. One of the city’s most hotly anticipated summer fixtures is the Smorgasburg food market, which happens every Saturday in the hipster hotspot of Williamsburg, at the East River State Park. Foodies are able to enjoy the flavoursome world tour of cuisine from about 100 different vendors, all with the stunning Manhattan skyline as a backdrop. If the variety of food isn’t enough to entice you to Brooklyn, then there’s always Smorgasburg’s sister market, the Brooklyn Flea, which happens next door simultaneously. This trendy flea market features vintage

C L O C KW I S E FROM TOP LEFT

concert series that happens at Rumsey Playfield in Central Park, with the 2017 line-up including acts such as Elvis Costello, PJ Harvey, Regina Spektor and Cold War Kids. The concerts begin in mid-June and run until September, with more and more gigs added throughout the summer, so check centralpark.com for more details. Another fun and left-of-centre activity to enjoy in Central Park is rollerblading. Explore the expansive park by hiring a pair of blades, or alternatively there are plenty of places to hire a bike and go for a leisurely ride with the whole family. With just under three and a half square kilometres of park to explore, you’ll be sure to find adventure, however many wheels you choose.

Travel to New York

Visit your local Flight Centre store for more the latest deals on travelling to New York at any time of year. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

Photos: Alamy, iStock, Getty, supplied

The Brooklyn Flea Market in Dumbo. Williamsburg’s spring festival of Smorgasburg is a popular annual event. Usher performs at Rumsey Playfield in Central Park. Locals enjoying the outdoors in summer. A spread of incredible dishes from Hudson’s at Pier 81. Locals flock to summer concerts in Central Park. Rollerblading is popular in Central Park in summer. Food on sale at Smorgasburg in Brooklyn.

clothing and furniture, flowers, arts, crafts, jewellery and heaps more – a trash and treasure fiend’s delight. If you miss out on the Saturday market don’t worry, because Brooklyn Flea then moves south on a Sunday to the area of Dumbo just under the Manhattan Bridge Archway. If a Manhattan skyline waterfront view sounds like the best part of Smorgasburg, then Hudson’s restaurant and bar at North River Landing on Pier 81 takes that perk one step further. The three-storey seafood lounge located in Midtown is a floating restaurant where, once seated and drinks have been served, you’ll set sail down the Hudson River towards the Statue of Liberty. Dine on fresh seafood and Mediterranean-inspired dishes while taking in stunning views of the Manhattan skyline and enjoying this truly unique way to say hello to Lady Liberty. The multilevel yacht has two daily sailings, so be sure to make a reservation. Come summer, the amount of activities, concerts and events around the city dials up a notch... or five. Most notable is the free SummerStage

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DRIVO I NRGE GHO ONL I W DA IN Y ES

Portland’s palate COME FOR THE WINE, STAY FOR THE FOOD Words: Marc Hinton

THIS IMAGE, AND RIGHT: Innovative chefs like Naomi Pomery, of the pictured Beast restaurant, are making waves in Portland; the vineyards in Oregon produce high-quality grapes, and look gorgeous while doing it.

Maybe your own epiphany wine will be a local Australian drop. Otherwise it could be a crisp Sonoma County chardonnay, or a luscious pinot noir from the Willamette Valley, Oregon. It’s not common knowledge that all 50 states in America grow grapes and produce wine. All you need to remember is my golden rule: if you like it, then it’s good.

Photos: Getty Images, Justin Bailie

When I was young, I consumed my epiphany wine – a 1955 Pio Cesare Barolo from Piedmont, Italy. After that first sip, my ear-to-ear grin told the story to everyone in the room; I was bitten by the oenology bug and nothing short of going to where the wine was made would satiate my curiosity. It was that moment when my quest to become a sommelier began.

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OREGON WINE

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Having spent the better part of my life studying oenology, I can see why ambitious viticulturists are drawn to Oregon: its geography and climate make it a perfect place to grow grapes. Straddling approximately the same latitudes as Burgundy and Bordeaux between 44 and 47 degrees north, the Willamette and Columbia Valleys duplicate the growing conditions of the two most famous wine regions in the world. This is the reason the winemakers are so excited about the potential here. Well that, and the fact that commercial agriculture has only existed in the Pacific Northwest for 200 years. Compare that to the 26 centuries of grape growing in France. Yes, they’ve been doing it longer, but the fresh and fertile soil in Oregon yields a vast variety of pristine fruit.

Sample American wines

Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice about travelling to and exploring Portland, Oregon. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Grape picking underway in the vineyards; the picturesque and productive Willamette Valley; chef Gabrielle Quiñónez’s eatery Ox Restaurant serves up Argentine-inspired deliciousness; relaxing with local tipples; there are frequent food and wine events in McMinnville, Oregon.

Photos: Getty Images, iStock, supplied.

Yes, wine is produced beyond California’s Napa Valley and Sonoma County. If you fancy a bold cabernet or a luscious riesling like I do, they are available in many places, but actually arriving at the vineyards might require a long and arduous journey. Moving to Oregon, and particularly Portland, I quickly realised warmer dry weather to the east suited the Bordeaux grapes, and the cool, wet climate to the south is nurturing to pinot noir and other cool climate grapes. Despite being home to 702 wineries, Oregon produces only one per cent of the nation’s wine. Most Oregon wineries produce less than 5,000 cases a year, and much of it is organically grown. Small production generally makes for higher quality.

The Willamette and Columbia Valleys duplicate the growing conditions of Burgundy and Bordeaux in France.”

Both red and white wine grapes thrive here and they make award-winning still wines, as well as sparklers and fortified sticky wines. According to the USA Wine Spectator magazine, the 2015 and 2016 Oregon vintage produced 20 per cent of the highest-rated wines in the United States. Due to this rapid rise in popularity, all my sommelier friends from Oslo to Singapore are recommending Pacific Northwest wines and offering them on their wine lists. Talented sommeliers are flocking to Portland because we have so many successful and gifted celebrity chefs, such as Gabriel Rucker, Gregory Gourdet, John Gorham, Greg Denton, Naomi Pomeroy and Gabrielle Quiñónez, just to name a few, whose restaurants have been catapulted onto the world stage for their innovative and often eclectic menus. My experiences at these chefs’ restaurants always become memorable moments of lasting pleasure. Upon arrival into Portland airport, I recommend jumping on the TriMet MAX train located right outside baggage claim. It’s a quick 30-minute trip to downtown Portland. I often use Uber and Lyft as alternate transportation and then, of course, you could rent a car. Portland is easy to navigate and this option suits those who like to take charge of their own adventures. Also accessible by public transport is the city of McMinnville, located less than 50km away, and it’s the epicentre of Willamette Valley wine production. If you decide to venture here, I recommend visiting the renowned Eyrie Vineyards at 935 NE 10th Avenue, or my personal favourite, Elizabeth Chambers Cellar at 455 NE Irvine Street. Nearby are Nick’s Italian Cafe (a local favourite) and The Painted Lady Restaurant. The fabulous indigenous cuisine I’ve devoured at these eateries has always been delicious, especially when paired with Willamette Valley wines.

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Sunrise at Toroweap I N north T O rim T HofE Point, on the the Grand Canyon.

WILD

INTO THE WILD

INTO

THE INTO THE EXPLORING AND ENJOYING AMERICA’S MOST RUGGED AND ICONIC BACKCOUNTRY EXPLORING ENJOYING Words:AND Lauren Steele AMERICA’S MOST RUGGED AND ICONIC BACKCOUNTRY

Photos: Photo:Getty GettyImages Images

Words: Lauren Steele

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INTO THE WILD

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Taking a leap in Olympic National Park; the undulating terrain in White Sands; bison are a lovely sight in America’s parks; sunrise in Monument Valley.

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blanketing coniferous forest, I panicked. What if this new-found enthralment with the monumental backyard of the USA would lose a scrap of its allure with every step I took into it? What if every hike across rims of red rock canyons, every amble through sagebrush-filled valleys, and every view of icy peaks was the first of the last of my discoveries? The fear within me felt like somehow finding access to the backcountry was comparable to finally unearthing a buried treasure chest after a lifetime spent hearing of and pursuing its existence. Being here on this unmarked trail in the middle of a mountain range surrounded by a beautiful landscape, the hunt for the cache was over. Now what? Well, after you find the treasure you can cash it in. No minute I spend in protected lands trekking across trails padded with aspen leaves and pine needles or past

delicate-looking waterfalls or under rugged alabaster limestone cliffs goes without paying me back tenfold in experiences that I couldn’t anticipate. Every day spent in the backcountry feels like walking off that plane and witnessing an original work of lively terrain. From Olympic National – where I lay with my camping companions on the wet sand of the cliff-framed Shi Shi Beach, looking up into a kaleidoscope of more stars than I imagined could fit into a sky – to my first trek across the gypsum dunes of White Sands National Monument – which cast the rosy sunset back with the reflection of a billion crystals – I quickly realised that opening the treasure chest of the wilderness was just the beginning of finding America’s wild. The state and national parks, monuments, and forests of the USA are

I quickly realised that opening the treasure chest of the wilderness was just the beginning of finding America’s wild.” Photos: Zach Doleac, Getty Images, Art Wolfe, iStock

The first time I crossed west of the Missouri-Kansas border was at age 21, when I moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico, in the southwestern corner of the United States. Born and raised on a farm in the heart of Midwest prairie land, stepping off that plane in Santa Fe also happened to be the first time I ever saw a proper mountain. The mountains that jutted up from the rusted brown earth of the high desert and greeted me were the famous Rockies – which stretch more than 4,800km across North America. New Mexico may be the southern terminus of the range, but this is where my relationship with the wild lands of America began. I wasted no time getting past city limits, parking lots, and entry gates to get into the wild. But one day on a scramble up to Battleship Rock in the Santa Fe National Forest among burping hot springs and

places where the old adage, “If you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all” never applies. From Niagara Falls pouring out a grandiose border between the USA and Canada, to the dramatic array of rust-red gorges and steep ravines of the dramatically carved Grand Canyon, there is no way to see the same thing twice when getting outside in America. There are only a few words to call a mountain or describe a river, but the experiences that you have and the memories that you create in the more than one million square kilometres of protected

public lands of America are boundless. And more importantly, they are yours. Yellowstone National Park saw over four million visits in 2016. One of those was mine. My childhood friend Shinea and I packed up her tried-and-true Subaru and drove from Livingston, Montana, to the iconic North Entrance of the park in the sleepy, rural town of Gardiner to tour the Grand Loop Road. The Grand Loop circles the most iconic areas of the park, including stops at the Old Faithful geyser and the Lamar Valley.

Before we even crossed into the park a passive herd of bison greeted us from the local high school’s football field where they lazed about – unconcerned by boundaries or any sort of designated territory. This is the Wild West. We drove past them and the ‘Welcome’ signage and pulled onto the Grand Loop – which takes four to seven hours to drive in total (or nine hours, if you’re like me and are inclined to pull off the road and do some exploration by foot – which is how all the original explorers did it). Travel ideas

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INTO THE WILD

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Running up the rocky crags of Mount Healy; a wild wolf in Yellowstone; the peaks of Denali National Park; meal time at the Knik Glacier, Alaska; icy ridges at the Knik Glacier.

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ble ice Incredi ns of the io formatk Glacier Kni

Photos: Zach Doleac, Getty Images, iStock

After scrambling up rocky crags covered in dusty snow and hardy lichens, I found myself atop Mount Healy.”

Fortunately, we were in the park on a colder-than-average weekday afternoon in early spring, and the only other visitors we were sharing views of the jagged Absaroka Mountains and tricky-to-spot wildlife with were intrepid retirees. Since the park can get notoriously congested in the summer months, having the road and the glacial valleys dotted with sizzling fumaroles to ourselves was a gift. By the time we pulled off for a midday jaunt through Canyon Village, nestled smack bang in the middle of the park, we had counted more run-ins with wildlife than with other humans. Bison, elk, foxes, bighorn sheep, and one of the park’s elusive legendary grey wolves – whose population rings in at less than 100 wolves scattered in 10 packs across the 8,989sqkm of the park – kept us in good company. Far away from the rest of the United States is Denali National Park and Preserve in Alaska, which will teach anyone with enough gumption and guts what ‘wild’ really means. The storied mountain that watches over the Last Frontier is the namesake of the park, and

beneath its 6,190m summit lies some of the most pristine and dangerous land that America claims. After car camping on a -10°C October night at the Riley Creek Campground, I dusted the snow flurries off myself and wandered into a ranger station. Upon enquiring about nearby trails and good day hikes I was met with this response: “You know, we don’t have many marked trails or maintained areas within the park because dictating how people explore the wilderness defeats the purpose of what the wilderness is. If you can’t take care of yourself out there without a trail or a guide telling you how to do it, you probably shouldn’t be out there.” With that, I took off on an unmarked trail at the base of the mountain that the station rested beneath and headed for elevation, knowing that what goes up must come down. After running and scrambling up rocky crags covered in dusty snow and hardy lichens, I found myself breathless with lungs and legs burning atop Mount Healy. The clouds were beneath me and Denali was above – holding court as the beautiful brute of a primitive, mountainous kingdom that felt so far away from anything safe and civilised. In a place as intense as Alaska – where the government protects 420,873sqkm of land – you learn to surprise yourself. Areas such as the Knik Glacier test you and teach you. After setting up camp on the black ice of the glacier, my travel companions and I strapped on harnesses and crampons and set to climb the azureblue ice formations that erupt from the glacier’s moraine crevasses with our guides from the Knik River Lodge. With each intentional kick of my toe spikes into the ice and each hoist of my legs, my guts churned with adrenaline and uncertainty: one slip could lead to bottomless blue and no escape. That night, sitting around the fire pit we’d built from stones gathered from the snout of the glacier and roasting trout we had caught earlier in the week on the Kenai River, I thought to myself: this is the type of lionhearted travel experience that you can’t plan for, but you find yourself in whenever you travel past road access and mobile phone service. It’s the novelty of adventure that America’s wilderness lands evoke that

Travel ideas

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INTO THE WILD

INTO THE WILD

Exploration in our national parks and recreation areas is a timeless challenge that revives the thrill of discovery.”

makes them so special to travel to and through. No matter how many park gates you enter, campsites you claim, or excursions you set out on, every adventure into the wilderness is a new one – a singular one. On my first day out on an American river, I found myself gorge-gazing from the depths of the Glenwood Canyon while paddling the iconic Colorado River’s undulating class IV and V rapids. My initiation to proper granite rock climbing was outside the famous recreational haven of Lake Tahoe, at Donner Summit – where some of the greatest American adventure athletes (namely Adrian Ballinger) play and train. The only time I’ve ever failed to make a mountain’s summit was while climbing in whiteout blizzard conditions on Mount Hood in Oregon’s Mount Hood National Forest, when my hair froze into icicle braids and our climbing team had to ski down the mountain with zero visibility and total control. My first 80km race ran through the Golden Gate National Recreation Area – where warm Pacific breezes, giant redwoods and quiet coves give way to rolling hills that feel impossibly far away from civilisation in the San Francisco Bay area. Each of America’s natural landscapes, which together construct the expanses of our wild lands, have taught me that adventure in the American outdoors burns like the eternal flame. Exploration

Exploring Sequoia National Park on four wheels.

in these national parks and recreation areas is a timeless challenge that revives the thrill of discovery washed away by the ease of metropolitan travel in the United States. All it takes is a step off the beaten track to discover something new and go wild in the wild.

Escape to the wilds of the USA

Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice about travelling to and exploring America’s national parks. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

Horseshoe Bend on the Colorado River is a beautiful, naturally occurring outlook.

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Photos: Zach Doleac, Getty Images, iStock

F R O M O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S OT H E R PA R K S TO D I S C O V E R A C R O S S T H E U S A

Yosemite National Park

Monument Valley

ALEISHA HARKINK, FLIGHT CENTRE WARNBRO, WA

DARRYL DICKSON, FLIGHT CENTRE REDB ANK PLAZA, QLD

This park has activities for all ages, including guided nature walks and hikes, and even movies about the history of the park. Wildlife spotting was my favourite – I even saw a bear!

This is a Navajo Nation equivalent to a national park. Not only were the views magical, so too is experiencing Navajo culture. I learnt about their mythology and customs, and had a traditional dinner.

Yellowstone National Park

Grand Canyon National Park

Glen Canyon

MATTHEW BELL, FLIGHT CENTRE PADDINGTON, QLD

GABI JEFFERY, FLIGHT CENTRE LISMORE, NSW

SIERRA BRASSEY, FLIGHT CENTRE DARWIN CITY, NT

My highlight was the hundreds of geysers and hot springs, with viewing platforms offering a window into the earth. Visit ranger stations, as they offer information to enrich the experience.

I splurged on a scenic helicopter flight – something I could do 10 times over. I recommend camping in the park; I woke up to one of the most incredible sunrises.

If you love the outdoors, Lake Powell offers beauty and adventure. Try fishing, climbing or water sports. Rent a houseboat, pitch a tent or just pass through to see the sun set over majestic red rocks.

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Sequoia National Park

This haven is made up of redwood forests, green meadows and alpine terrain. The park is a few hours south of Yosemite, but in my opinion it has just as much to offer, without the crowds. LAUREN HOWARD, FLIGHT CENTRE BENTLEIGH, VIC

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AFTER DARK

THE CHICAGO COMEDY SIX-PACK IT’S THE CITY WHERE IMPROV WAS BORN AND SKETCH WAS REFINED – HERE ARE SIX CHICAGO COMEDY CLUBS WELL WORTH YOUR TIME Words: Brett Walkow

From the wild and wacky acts of 1880s Vaudeville to today’s stars of Saturday Night Live, the Chicago comedy scene has always been known as a training ground for innovative creative comedic talent. Every night in town, there is a performer on a stage beaming with lights, making a room full of people laugh and laugh… and laugh. I’ve worked as a comic, writer, producer and director myself for decades, so I have an intimate knowledge of the best venues in town – from both on the stage and in the audience. So, in the hope of doing comedy’s greatest city justice, I bring to you my sixpack of the city’s hottest spots not to be missed. Enjoy!

Stand-up comedian Robert Buscemi performs at Zanies club in Chicago.

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Photo: Alamy

The Second City

As the mecca of improv comedy, Second City has launched the careers of homegrown talent that are now beloved icons of comedy: Steve Carell, Tina Fey, Stephen Colbert and Chris Farley, to name a few. It’s the name synonymous with the best in improv and sketch comedy – for good reason. With shows seven nights a week, the acts always bring something fresh. Catch classic-style improv and sketch with Chicago’s premier comedy troupes along with innovative shows such as #DATE ME: An OKCupid Experiment, one of my favourites. The show’s creators made up 38 Travel ideas

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F R O M O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S : L I V E E N T E RTA I N M E N T A C R O S S T H E U S A

A birthday surprise in New York City I was lucky enough to score tickets to a live recording of The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon! While I had to wake up at 1.30am the month prior for only a chance of getting free tickets, I was lucky enough to be able to go on my birthday. I’ll never forget when The Roots and Jimmy sang “Happy Birthday” to me during the ad break! ELYSSA REDMOND FLIGHT CENTRE TOOWOOMB A, QLD

Honky-tonk hoppin’ in Nashville Music City USA comes to life at night in honky-tonk bars.You could be there by yourself, and you would never be alone on the dancefloor, boot scootin’ along to classic country tunes with a bunch of the locals. Letting loose in Nashville with the locals offered a community vibe unlike anything else I’ve ever experienced. LEAH ELLIS, FLIGHT CENTRE ASPLEY, QLD

iO Chicago

Adam Mckay, Amy Poehler, Mike Myers, Jordan Peele... each of these comedic geniuses have graced the stage of iO Chicago. The best part about this venue is that it doesn’t matter what night or show, you’ll walk out grinning from ear to ear. See TJ & Dave, a duo who take you through an hour of hysterical and heartfelt improvised comedy. Were you one of the kids in school who actually listened in English class? Then you’ll love one of iO’s most acclaimed shows, The Improvised Shakespeare Company. The greatest writer in the English language would be proud as this troupe takes his style and flips it around into a laugh-out-loud play inspired by the audience. On a budget? Don’t worry, iO has your back, with free shows every Wednesday night.

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Zanies Chicago

This is my favourite stand-up comedy club in Chicago, hands down. Zanies has been around for 30 years and you can tell. The best touring comedians fly into Chicago to perform at Zanies, surrounded by an arsenal of the city’s funniest comics. When you walk into any of their clubs in or around Chicago, it has that classy cool vibe of an old-school Vegas club, always with the warm energy of a room filled with laughter. Even their Tuesday showcase of new talent is always thronging with the funniest fresh new comics. If you’re coming to Chicago, stop at Zanies any time for a good time.

The Laugh Factory

As a comic, this is one of the clubs you aspire to play at one day. What I love about The Laugh Factory is that it’s not your typical host, feature act, headliner club. And it’s not a night of random stand-up. It’s like going to a show jam-packed with headliners doing shorter sets. Most nights there’s a running show appropriately titled Chicago’s Best Stand-Up. They get

super creative with themed shows, too. Date night? Take your one and only to the Drink, Date Laugh! show for a night of relationship funny. Feeling dirty? Check out the Nasty Show. Just had dinner, then drinks, now wish there was something late to go to? Try the Midnight Madness show.

The WIP Theater

I’ve toured the country for more than 15 years doing stand-up. I’ve played huge casinos in Vegas to Hollywood’s biggest venues. But sometimes, the best clubs to perform comedy at are the smaller dives, where you can get raw-and-ridiculous face-to-face with your crowd in an intimate setting. This cosy theatre has become a killer venue for comics to call home. Even comics who aren’t performing come to hang out in the bar or at the back of the theatre, occasionally surprising the audience and becoming part of the show.

Timothy O’Toole’s Pub

Go a mile in any direction and there’s a bar advertising a comedy show on any

Photo: Getty Photos: Alamy, Getty Images, supplied

ridiculously un-dateable profiles, put them up on online dating site OkCupid and let nature take its course. After months of interacting with real people through these profiles, the results ended up... you guessed it: hilarious. Bring a date and cringe together.

given night. But you need to find the right place, otherwise you’ll be sitting through a bunch of terrible open mic comics reading notes off crumpled pieces of paper. Comedians You Should Know, at Timothy O’Toole’s Pub Chicago, is a weekly Wednesday showcase that may appear to be just another open mic, but it’s the exact opposite. This highly respected and critically acclaimed show is a favourite of comedy fans and stand-up comedians alike for a reason: they pride themselves on bringing audiences a first-class array of only the best local comics Chicago has to offer. Sometimes America’s TV favourites, like Jeff Garlin, drop in. Life is too short to be taken seriously, so laugh as much as possible.

See it for yourself

Visit your local Flight Centre for advice and the latest deals on travelling to Chicago, Illinois. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Chicago is perched on the shore of Lake Michigan; The Improvised Shakespeare Company at iO Chicago; Tina Fey and Amy Poehler are veteran performers on the Chicago comedy scene; Second City.

The magic of N’awlins Most people find themselves travelling to New Orleans for Bourbon Street, beads and beignets; however, a few blocks back are hidden gems like Frenchmen Street. My favourite French Quarter street has live music every night and jazz bands playing on every corner. Stop into The Spotted Cat Music Club to hear real-deal Louisiana jazz. AMY MCGILL FLIGHT CENTRE MARKETING, QLD

Take me out to the basketball game in LA Seeing a Lakers game at Staples Center in Downtown LA is a must for anyone, not just basketball fans. The opening show gave me goosebumps, Kiss-Cam and Bongo-Cam are hilarious and you’re guaranteed to see a celeb – I spotted Floyd Mayweather Jr sitting courtside! Oh, and the basketball is incredible, too! EMMA COAD FLIGHT CENTRE CREATIVE STUDIO, QLD

The party never stops in Miami My first night in Miami kicked off with a two-forone happy hour at the Bentley Hotel in South Beach. Miami Vice cocktails were swiftly ordered – the size of my head! – before my buddies and I continued the party at The Clevelander Hotel South Beach. The party really never stops in here, so it’s easy to get swept up in the excitement of it all. After all, when in Miami, right? ANTHONY COOK FLIGHT CENTRE ENDEAVOUR HILLS, VIC

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BY THE BYWAYS

The road trip is deeply ingrained in American culture, from songs like “Route 66” to classic novels like Jack Kerouac’s On the Road. America’s great roads, relatively cheap fuel and the wide range of sights and cities encourage many Australians to get behind the wheel – or jump on a motorcycle. Choosing which route to take may well be the biggest challenge. The West Coast is alluring, but should it be Highway 1 from LA to San Francisco through Monterey and Big Sur, or perhaps north from Frisco up Highways 1 and 101 through the

CONSIDER THESE CLASSIC USA CAR TRIPS FOR THE ULTIMATE SELF-GUIDED EXPLORATION

A bend in the Old Columbia Highway, approaching a rocky outcrop known as Rowena’s Crest.

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Photo: Getty Images

Words: David McGonigal

redwood forests towards hipster Portland and Seattle? On the other side of the country there’s Florida’s A1A and 1 through Miami, island-hopping to Key West. How about a musical journey alongside the Mississippi from Memphis to New Orleans? The Rocky Mountains; fall colours in Vermont; Virginia’s Blue Ridge Parkway: we’re spoilt for choice. Of course, there’s also Route 66 itself, the ‘main street of America’. Driving in America is easy. Avoid freeways and take to backroads where hospitality awaits at every roadhouse. Read on for more adventures.

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th e Taking oad high r C L O C KW I S E FROM LEFT

A traveller stands on the Benson Bridge in front of Multnomah Falls, Oregon. A historic wooden highway tunnel in Oregon – much of the infrastructure has a long history. You can see how Vista House in the Columbia River Gorge got its name when you see it in the context of its location. The interior of Vista House is almost (almost!) as incredible as its exterior.

Words: David McGonigal

When I opened the door of my rental car at Vista House the wind tried to rip it from my grasp. “We close when the wind blows over 80km per hour,” a kind volunteer warned. “We advise parents to hang onto small children when the wind gets up. Don’t want them blown away.” The Columbia River Gorge is the result of nature at its most violent. About 14,000 years ago, cataclysmic floods of the Columbia River scoured this pass through the Cascade Range. Engineers created America’s first scenic drive here between 1913 and 1922. “You have to drive the Historic Columbia River Highway,” several people in Oregon declared. “It’s amazing, so allow five hours for the 120km.”

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The eastward trip starts at the quaint town of Troutdale, but only when we reached a summit with a grand vista did we see the scale of both gorge and highway. It provided our first view of Vista House, built in 1918 to celebrate creating a route through the gorge. Early pioneer wagon trains had to roll the dice to choose whether to chance river rapids or the rugged volcanic slopes of Mount Hood on their journey to the West Coast. Over the day we passed through verdant forest and stopped at cascading waterfalls: Latourell, Bridal Veil, Wahkeena and Horsetail Falls. There were road tunnels and a set of historic locks. In places the road had been dug out of the side of the cliff. The Dalles marks the end of the historic road through the gorge. A paddlewheeler that plies the Columbia River was tied up alongside. We’d crossed

Only when we reached a summit with a grand vista did we see the scale of both gorge and highway.” the mountains to a different world: semiarid and bathed in sunshine. Panoramic views and forest walks, waterfalls, historic significance plus a change of climatic zones: over a day I’d experienced a short scenic byway that really does have it all.

Photos: Getty Images, iStock

Historic Columbia River Highway, Oregon

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D R I V I N G H O L I D AYS

and owers dot fl d l i W trees Joshuaandscape th e l

C L O C KW I S E FROM OPPOSITE

A Joshua tree among abundant beautiful wildflowers in Antelope Valley. The driving routes of Antelope Valley call to the intrepid traveller. California poppies carpet swathes of the Antelope Valley Poppy reserve. Pick up a deep-fried Oreo or Snickers from Charlie Brown Farms, or perhaps a snack of elk jerky.

Antelope Valley, California

Photos: Getty Images, Megan Snedden

Words: Megan Snedden

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Driving down Pearblossom Highway en route to Two Pines Chapel, also known as the ‘Kill Bill Church’, I swerved into the parking lot of Charlie Brown Farms when I spotted a sign for deep-fried Oreos. The shop is outfitted like a Western saloon, yet covered in advertisements for treats and obscurities such as elk jerky and “nostalgic gifts”. While I was eager to get to the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, I knew I had to make a stop, if not for a date shake, then perhaps for a new racoon-skin cap. California’s Antelope Valley is a little out there, and not just for its curious novelty shops in the middle of nowhere. Angelenos, and the majority of my friends,

consider the 107km trek from Santa Monica a major road trip, which is how my journey became a solo adventure. The meditative drive alone out to LA County’s backcountry gave me the headspace I craved as I cruised past towering snow-capped mountains and swerved along many bending roads. Arriving at the reserve, I parked along Lancaster Road for a picnic with views of glowing orange fields overgrown by poppies. Despite the remote location, I shared the view with plenty of travellers. During the spring super bloom season, when wildflowers carpet the barren desert in vibrant colours, locals and visitors alike will make the trek. Weaving through back roads beyond the popular poppy fields, I stopped when I reached an expanse of yellow goldfields glowing in the afternoon sun. There wasn’t a single person for miles.

I cruised by towering snow-capped mountains and swerved along many bending roads.” All I could hear, instead of the shutter of cameras, was the desert wind blowing through the brush. I got out of the car and stood mesmerised in the middle of the road: sometimes those places where there’s nothing to see are also the places where we experience the most. Travel ideas

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The sage-covered foothills of the Great Basin National Park sweep upward towards the iconic Wheeler Peak, the highest mountain in New Mexico. Traditional retail shopfronts in the town of Red River, where you may be able to spot a (staged) gunfight on certain days in summer. The distinctive houses in Taos Pueblo are constructed of adobe. Creatures like this prairie dog are common in the national parks along the Enchanted Circle route. Look out for marmots, too.

The Enchanted Circle, New Mexico Words: Steve Winston

“The Enchanted Circle lives up to its name,” Roberta Latham, Cabinet Secretary at New Mexico Tourism, told me. “It’s a 134km drive weaving together landscapes, cultures, art and history… and the best way to see the many sides of New Mexico.” My base was Taos, home to the Tiwa tribe for generations, and Europeans since 1615. Here, the 3,751m Taos Mountain is sacred to the Tiwa people at the Taos Pueblo. Taos was the birthplace of Southwestern Art in the early 1900s – and I was sure to take home several examples of it. I started my drive of the Circle past tiny Hispanic villages with adobe houses and painted wooden doorways.

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Soon, as I approached Taos Ski Valley, towering in front of me was the incredible and beautiful snow-capped Wheeler Peak, at 4,013m, the highest mountain in New Mexico. Hiking towards it, I tracked past Wheeler Lake, where marmots (a squirrellike alpine animal) came right up to me for food. Keep an eye out for prairie dogs, too. Next is the small village of Questa, which was founded by Spanish settlers in 1842 and is centred around the original adobe church. Close to the spectacular Rio Grande Gorge, Questa still cherishes its past. “In Questa,” one resident told me, “the way it is, is the way it was.” Red River, once a mining town, now offers skiing and an Old West ambience, and I found the best time to experience this was on Thursdays and Saturdays in summer, when gunfights (staged, of course) break out at the shops of Frye’s Old Town.

otto for p s y a l P dogs! prairie

Next stop was Eagle Nest, surrounded by the more than 6,000sqkm of Carson National Forest. Main Street still has planked wooden sidewalks, a saloon with swinging doors, and shops with Indian jewellery or pottery and, much to my delight, fantastic fudge. The last town on the Circle is Angel Fire, 2,590m altitude, with interesting cultural surprises. This town boasts the world-class Summer Music Festival and the Mountain Theatre. As a balloonist, I was fascinated to find out about the Balloons Over Angel Fire festival, which lures top balloonists to the countryside, for a mountain balloon party with spectacular views. Back in Taos, I stayed at the 1930s Hacienda Del Sol Bed & Breakfast, with the original adobe buildings and breathtaking views of Taos Mountain. Co-owner (with wife Luellen) Gerd Hertel, a noted chef, cooks the best breakfasts in town.

Photos: Getty Images, iStock

C L O C KW I S E FROM LEFT

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D R I V I N G H O L I D AYS F R O M O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S :

Little towns Going slightly off the beaten path can lead you to wonderful places on a road trip. A local recommended we visit Sedona in Arizona. It’s a stunning little town in the desert, surrounded by red stone, deep canyons and lush pine forests. CASEY QUINLAN FLIGHT CENTRE EARLVILLE, QLD

Keep flexible Make a plan for where you want to sleep but keep your days flexible. When driving through Big Sur, you might come across Elephant Seal Beach, where hundreds of seals gather on the sand, or if you pass through San Luis Obispo on a Thursday, make a dinner stop at the evening Farmers’ Market – my pick is the barbecue ribs. AMY DAVIS FLIGHT CENTRE ENDEAVOUR HILLS, VIC

Welcome centres While every state in the USA is worlds apart, you can rely on a welcome centre on state borders. Instead of spending entire drives on the interstate, the knowledgeable staff can help you plan the route to your next destination via unique small towns. There is a huge collection of brochures, maps and usually free coffee and wi-fi, too. JULES HERO FLIGHT CENTRE SOUTH YARRA, VIC

Got a dollar? While it’s always worthwhile avoiding toll roads where possible when travelling in a hire car, sometimes it’s unavoidable. And as many toll roads in the US are still cash-only, I recommend stockpiling all those one-dollar bills. They’re a saving grace on the road, and also come in handy when purchasing snacks at rest stops and vending machines. DANA HANMER FLIGHT CENTRE WERRIBEE PLAZA, VIC

Guide on the road Use Google Maps as your navigator – it reflects traffic conditions and road closures. Or, if you’d rather not be ‘online’ on the road, bring a GPS device from home – you’ll pay less downloading maps of the USA than what you’d pay per day to hire one. JEANETTE EDWARDS FLIGHT CENTRE CROYDON, VIC

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Explore the USA by road

Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice on driving in the USA and the latest deals to get you there. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

Photo: iStock

The USA is well serviced by roads, and travellers can make incredible discoveries by taking their time while exploring.


CALIFORNIA

SAND & SNOW WANT TO SKI ONE DAY AND SURF THE NEXT? THE GOLDEN STATE HAS YOU COVERED

Photos: Joanne Di Bona, Visit California

Words: Tatyana Leonov

TOP TO BOTTOM: Hitting the water in San Diego; hitting the snow in Mammoth.

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CALIFORNIA

When I think of California, snowdusted pine trees and mountains perfect for gliding down isn’t usually my first thought. For many – myself included – it’s all about sun-drenched beaches and the image of David Hasselhoff and his mates from Baywatch jogging in slow-mo. So when I found out that the skiing is top notch too, I wanted to see if it were possible to fit both activities into one holiday – rugging up to hit the slopes one day, then basking in the sun while enjoying the sand and waves the next. The truth is, in California you could surf and ski in the same day – if you’re an adventurous type who doesn’t mind rising early to travel. I decide to spread out the activities over two days, giving myself time to enjoy each escapade, but still get the brag factor in… because having snow photos on Instagram one day and surf shots the next – well, it makes for an interesting conversation. Mammoth Mountain’s claim to fame is having one of the biggest ski terrains in California, with runs spread out

over 1,400ha. The resort also has one of the longest running seasons in the US, and the sun shines (on average) 300 days per year – so as destinations go, it’s a top choice for snow bunnies. My one day at the ski resort is all about making the most of the knee-deep powder, so as soon as the lifts are open it’s all systems go. Mammoth Mountain (like the name suggests) is a huge slice of snow paradise, with a 28-lift system that whooshes visitors up to the highest peaks, from where they skyrocket down only to do it all again and again and again. I start slow, tackling the green runs to remind myself that I can ski, then move on to the blue runs, which keep me busy all

day. Beginners and pros alike have ample green and black runs to navigate, but intermediates get the best coverage with plenty of blue runs that weave their way down and around the slopes. I know that tomorrow I’ll be tackling waves instead of mountains, so I squeeze the most out of my time and opt for a quick cafeteria lunch instead of a lavish sit-down affair. I do the same in San Diego the next day, chuffing down fish tacos a little too hastily so I can spend most of my time playing in the water. It takes a little over six hours to drive from Mammoth Lakes to San Diego; alternatively you can fly via Los Angeles. Either way, if you’re committed you can certainly ski one day and surf the next.

I wanted to see if it were possible – rugging up on the slopes one day, then enjoying the sand and waves the next.”

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Photos: Getty Images, Visit California

Photos: Charlotte Piho Yoga; Cook Islands Tourism; Chris Prestidge; Getty Images; iStock

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Carving up a run in Mammoth; chairlifts deliver eager skiers to the tops of plentiful runs; the craggy peaks near Mammoth; attempting stand-up paddleboarding; the San Diego coastline is perfect for any skill level.

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CALIFORNIA

F R O M O U R T R AV E L E X P E RT S : M O R E S N O W I N TA H O E

Having snowboarded throughout California my best advice is hit up Tahoe, as there are seven world-class mountains to choose from. Staying around South Lake Tahoe has its advantages as you can make use of the Nevada/California border if you’re old enough to enjoy the relaxed laws of Nevada. Squaw Valley Mountain, home of the 1960 Winter Olympics, has the most diverse runs, while Northstar Village has the best ski village and accommodation. Heavenly Mountain Resort allows you to catch a gondola from the city up to the slopes, which means more time on the runs. It has amazing views of Lake Tahoe as well. Rather than transfer from San Francisco or LA you can fly into Sacramento (capital of California) or Reno in Nevada for shorter transfer times. ADAM COOK TRAVEL EXPERT, FLIGHT CENTRE ARMADALE, VIC

Top tips for Tahoe holidays • The mountain is accessible via both Nevada and California state borders. • There is an onsite board and retail store. • There is a range of runs to suit all skill levels and an excellent adult learning school for group or private lessons. • Take the kids! The kids ski school and magic carpet area are wonderful and safe ways for children to learn skiing and snowboarding. • Ski and board hire is often included in kids package prices. • Check out the breathtaking views of Lake Tahoe as you come down the hill on the gondola. • South Lake Tahoe is a short distance from the casinos of Nevada, which have a range of dining options and shows – think of it like a small-scale Las Vegas! MARIANNE VOSS TRAVEL EXPERT, FLIGHT CENTRE COOLANGATTA, QLD

Learning to stand-up paddleboard with Surf Diva in San Deigo.

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intense and glamorous teacher I’ve ever come across. Her wild blonde hair whips in all directions when the wind picks up; she laughs contagiously and often; and her energy encourages the whole class to get in the water and play. And so we do. Of course, first we are walked through safety procedures and taught how to paddle in and move from our knees to our feet in the water, but when it’s time to hit the waves no one hesitates and we’re in quickly, splashing, paddling, some from the group even making it up onto their feet on the first go. After a couple of attempts, I too manage to yank myself up from my knees to my feet (the trick is to keep paddling) and find myself upright, skimming the tops of the waves staring out at the horizon. A few from the group appear beside me, also on their feet, and soon there’s a cluster of us sporting childish grins that stretch from ear to ear. Izzy notices that we’re all upright, but clearly that’s not enough for her. “I’m going to teach you how to do the downward-

facing dog on your boards,” she shouts so everyone can hear her. “And then we can attempt some more complicated positions for those who are keen.” I snicker at the prospect of being able to bend myself into even the most basic of yoga positions, but then remember that only yesterday I was skiing and today I learned how to SUP. So I follow Izzy’s instructions slowly, trying hard not to tumble off my board. I fall off again and again, but it doesn’t even matter. Each time I tumble into the water I remind myself that yesterday I was whizzing down snow-white mountains and today I’m attempting yoga on a paddleboard… who knows what tomorrow in California will bring.

Hit the surf, then the snow

Visit your local Flight Centre store for more of the latest deals on active travel in California. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

F R O M O U R T R AV E L E X P E RT S : M O R E S U R F I N T R E S T L E S

Photos: Alamy, Visit California

I’ve tried my hand at surfing before, negotiating long smooth breaks in Byron Bay, tackling bigger waves on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, and even braving the surf in Hawaii – but I've never attempted stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) until now. San Diego has close to 115km of open ocean coastline, so whatever your surf style (or lack thereof), you’ll find a break to suit. Since I’m a beginner, the diversity of small breaks at La Jolla Shores makes for perfect conditions. Of course, the backdrop helps (La Jolla is one of the prettiest beaches in town, with long stretches of soft sand and plenty of sheltered coves), and this is where twin sisters Izzy and Coco of Surf Diva, along with their energetic team, teach folk like myself how to surf and SUP. I’ve had my share of surfing lessons and have noticed that the teachers tend to be passionate and outgoing, and predictably so: they’re out in the water sharing what they love, usually with a motivated bunch of people keen to listen and learn. Izzy, however, is the most

Trestles is a jewel of southern California – at least, to surfers. This collection of surf spots at San Onofre State Beach offers up what many surfers call the best waves in the world. Think perfectly peeling symmetrical waves (at Lower Trestles) and a highperformance hotspot between Church and Cottons. The state park is protected, as it’s not only home to incredible waves but also abundant wildlife. It’s also on the largest Marine Corps base in the world. Trestles isn’t the easiest surfing spot to reach, as you have to walk through scrubland with all your gear, yet it doesn’t deter people. Some say over 2.5 million people visit each year – so you aren’t likely to get waves to yourself. If you’re looking for a post-surf hangout, Daydream Surf Shop serves up specialty coffee and doughnuts.You can also pick up retro boards here for the ultimate surfing souvenir.

Top tips for surfing Trestles • Research the typical swell size for the time of year you are going and wave types you may come across. Taking the right boards can make or break your trip. • The type of surfer you are will ultimately determine your quiver, but if you ride mainly shortboards I would take an ‘everyday’ shortboard for medium-sized days; a step-down for clean, smaller days; and maybe even a small-wave groveller for those really tiny days (particularly important if you are travelling in summer, when the surf can be plagued with long flat spells). If you are travelling in winter it may be wise to swap that small-wave board for a step-up, as this time of year produces the largest and most consistent surf – there’s nothing worse than being in a foreign spot and feeling under-gunned! JOSH VERHOEVEN FLIGHT CENTRE CREATIVE STUDIO, QLD

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Up in the air FROM A SKY-HIGH VANTAGE POINT, AMERICA IS TRANSFORMED. PATTERNS EMERGE IN NATURE AND THE MUNDANE BECOMES MAGICAL Words: Cassandra Laffey

Radiating like a multicoloured corona from the earth, Grand Prismatic Hot Spring is eyecatching from all angles, but it reveals its true depths from above. The gem-laden hotspot is the most photographed of the 10,000odd geothermal features in Yellowstone National Park, the world’s first national park and also one of its largest, reaching across Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. Visitors can get up close to Grand Prismatic Hot Spring along a walkway that snakes around Midway Geyser Basin – the mesmerising colours are attributed to heat-loving microbes that colonise the cooler waters around the scalding centre.

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Photo: Getty Images

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, Idaho & Montana

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Chicago River, Illinois

Once a year, the Chicago River cuts a bright emerald swathe through the architecturally significant skyline of Downtown Chicago when the water is dyed green for St Patrick’s Day. A cherished part of Chicago’s Irish heritage and a Windy City tradition since 1962, the formula of the eco-friendly dye that tints the river is a closely guarded secret. Take a cruise along the kelly-green water, or find a vantage point on one of the bridges between the Loop and River North for the best craic.

The Everglades, Florida

This aerial photo traces the delicate whorls and tendrils of the tributaries within the Florida Everglades as they unfurl their watery tentacles across swampy wetlands. The best way to soak up the sights is skimming through the river of grass on an airboat safari, spotting the unique wildlife of this 1,900sqkm marshy ecosystem, such as alligators, ospreys, manatees and turtles, and perhaps even spying the elusive Florida panther.

Statue of Liberty, New York

Rising 92m above Liberty Island, statuesque Lady Liberty (formally ‘Liberty Enlightening the World’) was a gift from France to the USA, completed in 1886. Her green patina is the result of oxidisation of her copper cladding. From above the perspective showcases the spokes of her crown, signifying the seven continents, though most tourists will see the statue from the harbour aboard the free Staten Island Ferry.

Photos: Nick Ulivieri, Getty Images, Offset

Beaches in Hawaii

The idyllic shores of the Hawaiian islands are considered among the most breathtaking beaches in the world, spanning volcanic black beaches to golden sands and sugary white silica. The seafaring Polynesians of Hawaii birthed the cult of surf culture, with the iconic North Shore of Oahu a mecca for pro surfers tackling the big wintry waves of Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach. World-famous Waikiki Beach is ideal for beginners with its gentle, rolling surf. Travel ideas

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Denali National Park, Alaska

Rocky Mountains, Colorado

Spanning almost 2.5 million hectares with just one road bisecting the wilderness, Denali National Park is an untamed frontier of forest, alpine tundra and snow-capped peaks, including Denali itself, North America’s tallest mountain. Glaciers cover one-sixth of the park in rivulets of ice. The milky, silty runoff of a glacier exposes the fragility and beauty that draws mountaineers, wildlife lovers and photographers to capture Alaska’s wild heart.

Towering evergreen firs pierce a sombre sky, sending powdery snow to coat their branches. The Rockies form a backbone of rugged peaks that stretches from British Columbia, Canada, to New Mexico. Popular Colorado resorts, such as Vail, Aspen and Telluride, receive an average 454cm annual snowfall, making the Rockies a winter playground for skiers and snowboarders. Come summer, hiking, whitewater rafting and mountain biking are other ways to enjoy the pristine surrounds, which shed most of their icy snow cloaks until winter once again comes around.

Harvesting, Arkansas

A top-down view of the ancient canyons that inhabit the Vermillion Cliffs in Utah and Arizona reveal the ombre tones of centuries of erosion by the Colorado River. The surrounding Glen Canyon Recreation Area, covering half a million hectares, hosts incredible sights. These rock formations change colour in the shifting light, and are complemented beautifully by the deep turquoise waters of Lake Powell and a vivid tangerine and violet sunset. With over 3,000km of shoreline, Lake Powell is a popular destination for adrenaline-fuelled watersports, fishing and boating.

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Photos: Getty Images, iStock

Lake Powell and Glen Canyon, Arizona

Dancing in perfect formation, harvesting machines create striking lines amid the lowland plantations of Arkansas. America’s heartland interior was built on cotton plantations, and agriculture remains a major part of this southeastern state’s economy. Crisscrossing the country on a road trip reveals such instances of rural beauty – drive the Scenic 7 Byway in Arkansas to see hay bales dotting the landscape, rustic fall foliage and thick hardwood forests. Travel ideas

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Photos: Getty Images, Mark Holtzman, Mark A. Johnson, Art Wolfe

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Santa Monica Pier, California

Primary colours punctuate the beloved Pacific Park fairground attraction at Santa Monica Pier, a 50-minute ride from downtown Los Angeles on the Metro Rail. Imbued with nostalgia, enjoy a day at the beach with a view of the Pacific Ocean from the Ferris wheel, ride the rollercoaster or carousel, step back in time at the classic Playland Arcade, and split a hand-pumped soda with your bestie at Soda Jerks.

Huntington Beach, California

Huntington Beach is Surf City, USA, and the home of quintessential Californian beach culture with five shores along a 16km stretch. Huntington City Beach attracts more than 11 million visitors annually, all eager to soak up the laidback lifestyle and gain a golden glow while checking out the surfers on the swell. Grommets can tackle the calmer Bolsa Chica State Beach, while Huntington State Beach is the spot for beach bonfires and lazy, hazy summers.

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Times Square, New York

Published in 1984, Bright Lights, Big City by New York novelist Jay McInerney has become synonymous with the 24/7 metropolis. Neon-lit from within, Times Square draws tourists like moths to its epicentre. A million people gather to watch the New Year’s Eve ball drop here, and more than 300,000 pedestrians pass through every day. With Broadway, big-name attractions and even billboards all vying for your attention, there’s plenty to entertain.

Kalalau Valley, Kauai, Hawaii

Hawaiian singer Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole’s rendition of “Somewhere over the Rainbow” comes to life in a glorious arc over Kalalau Valley on the island of Kauai. Known as the ‘Garden Isle’, Kauai is a nirvana of lush tropical beauty, and the secluded Kalalau Valley on the Na Pali Coast is a hideaway of knife-edge cliffs, cascading waterfalls and vibrant flora. Head to Kalalau Lookout for views of the coastal surrounds and valley. Travel ideas

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Hidden Hawaii

Hawaii offers more than just (fantastic) beaches, such as hiking on the Kalalau Trail, Kauai.

ADD A LITTLE EXCITEMENT TO YOUR HAWAIIAN HOLIDAY BY EXPLORING THE ADRENALINE-INDUCING EXPERIENCES ON OFFER Words: Jennifer Crites

Photos: Getty Images

There’s no doubt the USA’s 50th state rates high on everyone’s to-visit list. Who doesn’t love soft golden beaches, the lure of Waikiki, surfing, cocktails, hula, pineapples and gently swaying palm trees? But there’s a whole lot more to these idyllic islands than tropical splendour. Buckle up, because if you want to experience all that Hawaii has to offer, you’re in for an exhilarating ride.

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Travel ideas

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Horse riding is a popular activity in Hawaii; volcanoes are a dramatic sight on the islands; the statue of Duke Kahanamoku; Iolani Palace; Sunset Beach, a renowned surfing spot; a waterfall on the Na Pali coast.

Hawaii’s islands are anchored on the bottom of the ocean to a giant slab of rock known as the Pacific Plate. Underneath it, a hot spot in the earth’s core spews magma outwards, burning holes in the tectonic plate and assembling islands. On Hawaii’s Big Island, the spectacle of Kilauea volcano’s lava pouring downslope into the ocean can be witnessed via helicopter, boat, bike or on foot. At Hawaii Volcanoes National Park’s observatory overlook, lava glows through smoke in the caldera as daylight fades. While you’re in the park, be sure to stroll through Thurston Lava Tube to get an intimate glimpse inside a tunnel formed by a former lava flow. Also on Big Island, dormant 4,200m Mauna Kea (the White Mountain) boasts 12 observatories, a winter covering of snow, and a 4WD access road from

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the visitor centre at 2,800m to the top. Slumbering Haleakala on Maui draws crowds to its moonscape-like summit crater for a spectacular, albeit chilly, sunrise. The latter now requires reservations and a small fee is charged to avoid carpark overflow.

Go on an adventure… or five

Once you’re done stalking an active lava flow, there are many other ways to walk on the wild side. Experience the thrill of zip-lining over valleys, tropical rainforests and waterfalls, book a skydiving excursion, or soar through the air in a powered hangglider. On Maui, several tour agencies will take you on a thrilling downhill bike ride from the summit of Haleakala all the way to the ocean. Kauai’s bike adrenaline rush starts at the rim of Waimea Canyon – a Grand Canyon lookalike.

Underwater adventures abound, too. It’s easy to book submarine, scooter, snorkel, scuba and snuba outings. And some dive shops on Big Island offer night expeditions to spy on graceful manta rays feeding on plankton. Horseback trail rides are available at Hawaii’s many stables, which also stage rodeos at various times of year. Believe it or not, polo is a popular island sport, and there are venues such on the North Shore that offer lessons. You’ll find a plethora of hiking trails that deliver spectacular views of forest, ocean and mountains, and are very likely to lead you to a hidden waterfall. For a truly unforgettable trek, make sure you climb at least the first couple of kilometres along Kauai’s jaw-dropping, 18km Kalalau Trail as it winds along the oceanside cliffs of famed Na Pali – cinematic home of King Kong.

Surfing schools offer lessons year-round and will guide you to the best beaches for your skill level.” Learn to ‘hang ten’

Photos: Getty Images, iStock

Explore volcanoes

Surfing schools offer lessons year-round and will guide you to the many of the best beaches for your skill level. During big-wave season from December to April, hundreds of spectators flock to see surfers tackle monster waves at Jaws Surf Break on Maui. And professional surfing championships, such as the Pipeline Masters and Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, take place on the island of Oahu’s North Shore at Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach.

Considered the father of modern surfing, Duke Kahanamoku was the first person inducted into the swimming and surfing halls of fame. Every year near his August 24 birthday, a lei-draping ceremony at his Waikiki statue kicks off the multi-day Duke’s OceanFest – an extravaganza of water-based competitions and festivities.

Get to know the local lore Being local in Hawaii implies a person is part Native Hawaiian or the descendant

of labourers from China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, the Philippines, Puerto Rico or Portugal, who were brought to the islands in the 1800s to toil on sugarcane plantations. These groups, along with Samoans, Tongans and other Polynesians – as well as Caucasians – intermarried and intermingled, with their culture becoming an expanded collage of language, food, architecture and customs that makes Hawaii the diverse and exciting cultural hotspot it is today. Some of the most intriguing repositories of Hawaii’s vibrant history and culture include Oahu’s Bishop Museum, which showcases Polynesian voyaging using celestial navigation; Iolani Palace, a former royal residence inhabited by Hawaii’s kings and queens; and Hawaii’s Plantation Village, an open-air museum arranged around a general store, barber shop, bathhouse and plantation-workers’ homes. It imparts the story of life on Hawaii’s sugar plantations. Travel ideas

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Chinese New Year on Oahu; a food truck sells its wares; a shave ice confection; a performer sings; many locals love to play mahjong.

Celebrate with the locals

One of the best ways to immerse yourself in Hawaii’s ethnic fun is to attend one of the state’s many festivals. Watch kimonodressing demonstrations, listen to Scottish

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bagpipes, join a Greek line dance, learn to play mahjong (a Chinese card game) or try your hand at stringing a lei. There are hula performances, ukulele jam sessions, king-and-queen coronation ceremonies, and parades featuring flower-laden floats, bare-chested Hawaiian warriors holding spears, and steam-belching dragons. A spectacular fireworks display is often the grand finale. Don’t forget to attend a luau. In the past, this feast was held to commemorate a special event such as an infant surviving its first year or the launching of a new canoe. Today families still celebrate a baby’s first birthday, plus graduations, weddings and more. If you don’t know a local who is planning one, you can take part in a luau for tourists. In addition to a Polynesian dance performance, all serve up a sumptuous array of both Hawaiian and Western food.

Take your tastebuds on a tour

The culinary scene in Hawaii includes everything from luaus to mom-and-pop eateries specialising in specific cuisines, to fine dining at highly rated restaurants like those headed by Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. Marimoto will soon be opening two restaurants that will sit within the newly redeveloped Alohilani Resort at Waikiki Beach. Hawaii’s ubiquitous food trucks deliver another epicurean option. They dish up Thai, Mexican, Hawaiian and German cuisines, barbecue, shave ice, crepes, healthy fare, and anything else you could think of. Watch for a munchies bonanza called Eat the Street, in which dozens of these mobile eateries band together at a designated location. The payoff is an extravaganza of foodie delights in a carnval atmosphere.

Photos: Jennifer Crites, Getty Images, iStock

The culinary scene in Hawaii includes everything from luaus to mom-and-pop eateries.”

Wherever your palate takes you, be sure to try Hawaii’s favourite food: Spam – no joke. It was introduced to Hawaii during World War II by the USA government to help feed deployed soldiers. Many migrant workers incorporated it into their own cultural dishes, and the popularity of Spam exploded. You can discover the allure of Spam at the yearly Waikiki Spam Jam – an evening celebration that features Spam-inspired creations from local restaurants, non-stop entertainment and Spam-themed merchandise.

F R O M O U R T R AV E L E X P E R T S : H O W TO S E E H AWA I I . . .

... with your partner

My husband and I spent our honeymoon relaxing in Hawaii. We loved people watching on Waikiki Beach, eating local food and swimming. We took a cruise and went snorkelling at Hanauma Bay in clear blue water. That morning we left our hotel early and watched the sunrise from our boat – a very romantic setting indeed! TAMMY REED FLIGHT CENTRE BASSENDEAN, WA

Explore more of Hawaii

Your local Flight Centre Travel Experts can tell you more about travelling to Hawaii, and getting the best deals. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

... with a group

My friends and I stayed at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort and had a ball! With shopping, restaurants,

bars and markets within walking distance, there’s something for everyone if you all want to split up. Regroup for the Paradise Cove Luau; get swept up in the local traditions and eats – and even nominate one of your friends to dance on the stage!

and pineapple goodies. Budding surfers will love watching the big waves at Pipeline on the North Shore!

CHLOE MARLOW

Embrace the aloha spirit and laidback way of life on a cruise: you don’t have to unpack, catch flights or make many decisions! By day, embark on Hawaiian adventures such as ranch tours, snorkelling trips and shark dives. By night, breathe in the sea breeze en route to the next idyllic destination.

FLIGHT CENTRE COOLANGATTA, QLD

... with the kids

The North Shore is a great day trip for the kids from Waikiki. It’s a 45-minute drive to Haleiwa town (try the local shave ice), and you can break up the journey with a stop at Dole Plantation. This pineapple farm has a maze, train rides

TARA TALBOT FLIGHT CENTRE LIVINGSTON, WA

... on a cruise ship

BECKIE ELLIOTT FLIGHT CENTRE NOOSAVILLE, QLD

Travel ideas

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Disney detail IS IN THE

CAPTURING THE IMAGINATION OF ALL AGES, WALT DISNEY WORLD RESORT IN ORLANDO, FLORIDA, SURPRISES AND DELIGHTS AT EVERY TURN Words: Emma Russell

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They say the difference between something good and something great is in the detail, that small details are often the elements that thrill us the most once discovered. So it comes as no surprise that the ‘most magical place on earth’ – Walt Disney World Resort – is full of tiny details that enthusiasts devote time to uncovering. Many have hunted for the ‘Hidden Mickeys’ – thousands of tiny nods to the famous mouse who started it all. These silhouettes are hidden in carpets, artwork, lights, gardens, or at specific moments in rides. While these are all integral to the experience at Walt Disney World Resort, perhaps the greatest joy is realising that these elements are designed to blend in, selected to create this immersive world. You’d be forgiven for believing that this renowned attention to detail would be reserved for the parks; however, with more

Photos: Getty Images, supplied

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Expedition Everest in Animal Kingdom; the Cars Cozy Cone Motel; Mickey and Minnie make an appearance; Lightning McQueen from Cars in the resort.

than 25 resorts on site, Walt Disney World Resort is a veritable treasure trove of hidden wonders. Your Disney journey begins on a comfortable Delta Air Lines flight to LA and then Orlando, where the hardest decision is which Disney classic to watch first on the world-class onboard entertainment system, or which of the meals you should select from the delicious regional menu. Upon your arrival in Orlando, Disney wastes no time in introducing its exceptional customer experience – Disney’s Magical Express is ready and waiting to take you straight to your resort accommodation. The smallest of things are considered at Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge. Enter the gates and you notice the shift: the landscaping is more African-inspired, while the driveway is lined with lights resembling tiny teepee campfires. In the

main building you’ll find a cavernous room which appears to be made of branches roped together, a grass-thatched roof, huge lights made of stretched and painted hides, and rope bridges connecting the wings. The rooms feature beautiful carved furniture, while mosquito nets adorn the beds, and bathrooms are complete with safariinspired wallpaper. That’s not to forget the biggest drawcard – the 30 species of African wildlife that live on the savannah surrounding the resort, with a wildlifespotting guide waiting in your room. Walking into the lobby of Disney’s Art of Animation Resort, you’ll find a space dedicated to the concept art of Disney films. Sketches line one wall, paintings denote the entrance to the onsite store (aptly called Ink and Paint), thumbnail sketch light-fittings hang from the ceiling, and immersive concept landscapes feature

on the restaurant walls. But that’s just the beginning, for the true magic starts once you make your way outside. Broken into four main wings, the accommodation is based on the films The Little Mermaid, Cars, Finding Nemo and The Lion King. Each wing features life-size versions of your favourite characters. Plants are selected to resemble habitats from the movies: wonky ‘underwaterlooking’ palms, dry grasses that seem like they’d be at home on Route 66, and plants such as those from an African jungle. The huge pool in the Finding Nemo wing plays music underwater, and down Route 66, in the Cars wing, you’ll find yourself at the Cozy Cone Motel pool. Rooms are fitted with couches modelled on the backseat of a Hudson Hornet; Radiator Springs postcards sit on the bedside tables; and lampshades are fashioned out of traffic cones. Travel ideas

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Getting to Walt Disney World Resort

The partnership of Virgin Australia and Delta Air Lines ensures a seamless experience from most Australian cities to Orlando, Florida, and offers families a great hassle-free way to travel. With world-class onboard entertainment, partners Virgin Australia and Delta Air Lines provide a huge range of movies,TV shows, games, music and more, sure to keep the whole family happy all the way to Orlando.

With incredible storytelling at play, it’s hard to summarise how you feel while at a themed Disney resort, but it’s safe to say there’s nothing else like it. The Disney parks are legendary for their care and ingenuity, and they don’t disappoint – there are places where the layers of storytelling are so thick it feels as though you’ve been transported to a fantasy realm. Perhaps the most iconic is the wonderful Magic Kingdom Park. With several ‘lands’ it’s hard to even scratch the surface of the decades of details put into what is

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undoubtedly the most beloved park of all. The amount of attention Disney puts into the imaginative treatments in order to achieve a sense of grand scale is fascinating, and is definitely present here. The centrepiece of the park, Cinderella Castle, has bricks that get progressively smaller as they ascend. The Beast’s Castle, which is home to the ever-popular Be Our Guest Restaurant, is no more than a few metres high, but perched atop its rocky mountain looks as though it’s an impressive structure far in the distance.

Disney’s Animal Kingdom Theme Park is divided into several areas, but there are two – Africa and Asia – that really come to mind when thinking about the energy Disney puts into its seamless experience. Seemingly ‘plain’ sections are filled with small imperfections: signage and signwriting that looks as though it has been in place for decades; carts and bikes rest against poles, covered in bananas or foreign bottles of Coke; even the wiring is haphazard and perfectly imperfect. If you look closer at the decorative posters,

Photos: Getty Images, supplied

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Be entranced in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Theme Park; the entrance to the interactive Toy Story Mania! attraction; Cinderella’s Castle at Walt Disney World Resort.

you’ll see they speak of attractions in the park, whether they are rides, restaurants or wares on offer. Typos denote language barriers, and imperfections show signs of humanity. Over at Disney’s Hollywood Studios it’s a different experience altogether. The story here is not one of exotic countries but of a golden era in American history, and all of the people, architecture and culture that went with it. It starts from the entrance, where the stroller, wheelchair and mobility scooter pickup

is a 1930s gas station, and Art Deco buildings line the boulevards. Cast members push water carts disguised as lighting grips. Venture over to Pixar Place and you’ll find the iconic gates modelled on the entrance to Pixar’s California studios, right down to the type and colour of brick. The main ride is Toy Story Mania!, and the ‘mania’ is evident the moment you pass through. It’s like stepping into the movie itself, complete with interconnected ‘Barrel O Monkeys’ Travel ideas

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hanging overhead, little green army men lowering Scrabble board signage from the tops of buildings, and posters in Paddle Pop stick frames. Enter the ride and it only gets better – you’re instantly immersed in Andy’s room, where queues are fenced with building blocks, crayons, dominoes and cards. Between the decor and the interactive arcade-style ride the experience is beyond nostalgic, with each ride uncovering things you missed the time before. A trip through Epcot is bound to leave you at a loss for words, especially if you’re lucky enough to visit during Epcot International Food & Wine Festival (usually held during the months of September through to November) which takes the magic to a whole new level. The World Showcase gains 19 stalls to complement the 11 full-time ‘countries’ – all dedicated to serving food and beverages from each destination. Interestingly, the staff employed for each stall in the World Showcase hail from the corresponding countries, adding to the park’s authenticity and diversity. The nods to architecture from across the globe are carefully executed – there’s the unmistakable lights and coloured tiles that

bring Piazza San Marco to life within ‘Italy’, and the iconic pagodas and landscaping that are synonymous with Japan. Some of the finest work is in the bouquinistes (or booksellsers) that line the water in ‘France’ as they do the Seine in Paris. The World Showcase is perfect for keen travellers: hints of nostalgia for places you have visited hit you at every turn. It’s hard to summarise the fastidious craftsmanship behind such a huge legacy of work – Disney prides itself on ingenuity and ‘Imagineering’. But if one thing is certain, it is in each and every one of these details that Walt Disney World Resort lives up to the words declared on the park gates. It truly is ‘Where Dreams Come True’.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE The Japan display at Epcot; a shot from the new Guardians of the Galaxy: Mission Breakout attraction; the Na’vi River Journey from Pandora: World of Avatar.

Escape to Walt Disney World

Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice about travelling to Orlando, Florida, and Disney’s theme parks. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

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Pandora, filled with glowing flora and fauna – a treat for all the senses. Guardians of the Galaxy: Mission Breakout For its latest Marvel-themed attraction, Disney has given the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror at Disneyland Resort, Los Angeles, a Guardians of the Galaxy makeover. Guardians of the Galaxy: Mission Breakout is an unforgettable experience that mixes the thrills of an old-fashioned rollercoaster with the wittiness and rock ’n’ roll attitude of the movies. Compared to the Tower of Terror in Disney World, Orlando, this ride is next level, with more action, humour and stomach-dropping thrills. MARNIE MATTHEWS FLIGHT CENTRE CREATIVE STUDIO, QLD

Photos: Supplied

Pandora: World of Avatar Disney’s magic brings Avatar director James Cameron’s dream to life at Walt Disney World Resort, Orlando, where you can experience the fictional Pandora as if it were a real planet. Entering Pandora, surrounded by lush gardens with strange plants underneath floating mountains, is Disney’s latest attraction, Avatar Flight of Passage. Walking through research laboratories and past an extremely lifelike Na’vi Avatar in a preservation tank, you are ushered into a room to be matched to your Avatar before mounting a bike seat that simulates riding a Banshee (a dragon-like creature). Feel the Banshee’s wings flapping, and as you soar and weave through the breathtaking world of Pandora, you can feel your Banshee breathing beneath you. The sights, smells and sensations all combine to make the ride as realistic as possible. There’s also the slower-paced, family-friendly Na’vi River Journey. The boat ride takes you through the bioluminescent rainforest of


CRUISING ALASKA

The last frontier SHORE EXCURSIONS OFFER CRUISERS A CHANCE TO GET TO KNOW THE REAL ALASKA

Photo: Getty Images

Words: Catherine Bodry

Lush, verdant and virtually unexplored, with mist-shrouded mountains and ancient glaciers crashing directly into the ocean, Southeast Alaska is a visual and sensual feast. Deep fjords carve through more than 1,000 islands which buzz with wildlife, from breaching humpback whales and massive brown bears feeding on salmon to regal bald eagles perched on old-growth fir trees.

Culturally rich, this slice of the state is home to several Alaska Native tribes who have lived here for millennia, and, together with more recent arrivals, they populate the small coastal towns and villages of the region. Most of these communities rely in large part on abundant natural resources to make a living, and part of the joy of visiting them is witnessing the lives of those who choose to live and love here. Travel ideas

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LEFT TO RIGHT: The small town of Sitka, Alaska; a grizzly bear fishes for salmon in the waters of Chichagof Island; colourful houses line Fourth Avenue in Ketchikan; a totem pole near Ketchikan.

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Photos: Getty Images

Bear-watching excursions and salmon fishing trips are on offer from these towns.” Southeast Alaska towns are not connected by road, which means most communities, including the state capital, can only be reached by plane or boat. Cruise ships follow the same route as the state ferry, through a protected corridor called the Inside Passage and along the Alaska Marine Highway. It’s the only waterbased road system in the USA, and easily one of the world’s most scenic. Because Southeast Alaska is so reliant on water transport, most cruise ships dock right in the centre of towns. Often you can walk off your ship and straight into the heart of a small Alaska community. Cruises through Alaska are perfect for families, with the wilderness serving as a veritable playground at ports of call. Don’t leave the kids home for this one, as the journey through this magnificent green labyrinth of forested islands truly is a trip of a lifetime.

Many Southeast Alaska cruises travel on a north/south path, either starting or ending in Seattle or British Columbia, Canada. The first stop in the southern panhandle is Ketchikan, a fishing community and one of the region’s larger towns. Explore Ketchikan’s colourful Prohibition history on Creek Street, where you can visit a brothel-turned-museum and wander the boardwalks among brightly painted historic buildings. If that content feels too adult for the kids, catch a bird’s-eye view of the wilderness at one of Ketchikan’s three zip-lines. Here you’ll be whisked through a rainforest canopy on a series of lines. As you travel through the trees you’ll be surrounded by the sounds, smells and sights of the living, breathing Tongass National Forest. From Ketchikan, your ship will head north. Smaller ships will thread through the needle-thin Wrangell Narrows, where you’ll

feel as if you can reach out and shake hands with the trees on either side of the boat. A few ships will stop at Wrangell and Petersburg, small Inside Passage fishing communities. One of the thrills of visiting these towns is watching purse seine (a style of commercial fishing) boats, thrum into busy harbours with the day’s catch. Bear-watching excursions to Chichagof Island, salmon fishing trips, and marine mammal cruises are also on offer from these towns, making them excellent bases for viewing wildlife. Most cruise ships call at Sitka, a small town of 9,000 located on the west side of Baranof Island. Sitka has existed under three flags: Tlingit (an Alaska Native tribe), Russian and American. Not surprisingly, there’s a rich and tangible cultural history here that is worth exploring. View an elaborately costumed Russian dance troupe, visit a Russian Orthodox cathedral, or walk among totem poles at a national historic Travel ideas

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E X P E RT T I P S

From watching glaciers calve into the sea and enjoying a drink on her private balcony, Travel Expert Kristie Meier’s Celebrity Infinity Alaska cruise exceeded her expectations. She tells us how to make the most of the onboard experience.

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Get out there

Visit your local Flight Centre for more advice on getting to Alaska and to find out about the latest deals. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

Activities There are so many activities to choose from, you may run out of time to tick them all off. They range from art auctions and cooking demos to wine tasting, bingo and trivia. Ships usually have an indoor pool and spa area, which is the perfect place to be on chilly sea days in Alaska.

Choosing your cabin If you’re going to spoil yourself with an Alaska cruise, you should enhance the experience with a balcony cabin or higher, if budget allows.This way you make the most of the views, and have a perfect setting to soak up the crisp glacial air. If you think you might be prone to seasickness, a mid-ship cabin is a must, as it’s the most stable part of the ship. KRISTIE MEIER TRAVEL EXPERT, FLIGHT CENTRE BRIGHTON, SA

LEFT TO RIGHT: Your ship will cruise past such sights as Margerie Glacier; storefronts on Fifth Avenue in Skagway; travellers taking a glacier walk on Mendenhall Glacier.

Photos: Getty Images

park marking the Russian defeat of the Tlingit in 1804. Sitka, like most Alaska towns, is also a perfect base for outdoor adventures. Kayaking among the spruce-forested coves and views of the volcano Mount Edgecumbe is a popular family activity, as is visiting injured eagles at the Alaska Raptor Center. All ships call at Juneau, the state capital. Boats dock within walking distance of the downtown centre, so you can easily wander the steep streets, all of which are backed by massive green mountains rising directly behind the city. A family hike at the Mendenhall Glacier is a stunning way to spend an afternoon in Juneau. A motorcoach will deliver you to the excellent visitor centre, from where several walking paths begin. Many are wide and easy on little legs, including the walk to the roaring Nugget Falls. Other options include riding the Mount Roberts Tramway straight up the mountain of the same name. Here you can explore meadows full of wildflowers, and enjoy lunch at the mountainside bar and grill while gawking at the views of Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island. After a day in the ‘big’ city, your cruise will continue on to Skagway. Along the way your ship may spend a day in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site packed with calving tidewater glaciers. The crown jewel is Margerie Glacier, which sits in a

Dining Dining on Celebrity Cruises is amazing from sun up to sundown. Breakfast and lunch are served in the main dining room, but for dinner there are many options. Choose a six-course extravaganza, with a choice of wines to match, or take advantage of four speciality restaurants onboard.

quiet repose 40 storeys high. But when it calves it roars like thunder, and can send massive waves rolling out under your boat. The historic town of Skagway is full of fun, with guides dressed in Gold Rush-era costumes leading walking tour groups along the boardwalk-lined streets, past brightly painted storefronts. The main town is easily explored on foot, and there are museums (even a few free ones), hiking trails, and excellent dining all within a few blocks of each other. To get a real sense of Skagway’s past, however, take a ride on the White Pass Scenic Railway. You’ll travel in vintage railway cars up the rocky mountain pass, where many gold seekers pursued fortune in the late 1800s. Waterfalls, gorges, old Gold Rush machinery and even swathes of the original Gold Rush trail are all part of the scene from your carriage window. It’s the perfect way to immerse yourself in a historic journey. Skagway is connected to the Alaska Highway system via Canada, and many cruises terminate here. You can step off your ship for the last time knowing you brought your family on a journey filled with adventure and wonder. With some of the biggest wildlife in the world, a rich history and thriving coastal communities, the opportunities to both learn about and enjoy this abundant region are unparalleled.

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Making memories

T R AV E L M O M E N T S

04 Free performer

showcase at IndyFringe

What is it: You’ll be amazed at what a performer can do in two minutes – comedy, magic, music, dance and lots of drama. Where: The Athenaeum, Indianapolis How: It’s a pre-festival performer and audience party – a preview of what’s to come. Why: We all want a good laugh! Tip: Arrive early, grab a seat with anyone, start a conversation and let the rest happen. More info: IndyFringe Festival (August 16–27, 2017) takes place on Massachusetts Avenue, home to an eclectic mix of unique shops, galleries, live theatre, locally owned restaurants and bars. Pauline Moffat, Australian expat and president & CEO of IndyFringe

OUR CONSULTANTS AND EXPERIENCED TRAVELLERS GIVE US INSIGHT INTO THEIR FAVOURITE THINGS THEY’VE SEEN AND DONE IN THE USA

03 Magical scene after a storm

Where: Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah. Why: I took a spur of the moment trip to Bryce Canyon. I had planned some night photography, however it rained the entire night and most of the next day. There was zero visibility most of the time due to the fog. I was frustrated and felt like heading back home many times, bit I decided to wait it out until sunset. Just a couple of hours before sunset, this magical scene appeared and made the wait worthwhile. Tip: Use a telephoto lens to capture a landscape within a landscape. Prajit Ravindran, Utah-based landscape photographer and software engineer

03

01 Starring in

02 September 11

What is it: A dazzling musical spectacular. Where: New York City How: Visit Broadway’s Broadhurst Theater. Why: Our first preview of Anastasia was one of the most exciting nights I have ever had in the theatre. The response was electric and nothing has changed since then! There’s nothing like seeing a Broadway show. Tip: When you’re booking flights, it’s a great time to book Anastasia tickets too. More info: Caroline O’Connor has starred in Australin productions of Chicago (1998) and Anything Goes (2015), and the film Moulin Rouge! (2001). Caroline O’Connor, British-Australian actress

What is it: The memorial dedicated to the victims of the September 11 attacks. Where: Downtown New York City How: An Urban Adventures walking tour. Why: Visiting the 9/11 Memorial was one of the most incredible yet sombre moments of my life. In a city that is always busy and full of excitement, it was amazing to see how many people stopped to pay their respects. The memorial truly shows the strength of the human spirit. Tip: Put down your phone – pay your respects without photos or social media. Jessica Bellenger, Travel Expert, Flight Centre Sunshine Plaza, Qld

Anastasia the musical

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01

Photos: iStock, Matthew Murphy, Prajit Ravindran

Memorial & Museum

02 Travel ideas

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T R AV E L M O M E N T S

08 Sun Studios

What is it: A historic recording studio. Where: Memphis, Tennessee How: Memphis is a three-hour drive from Nashville, or fly from other cities. Why: I’m a huge fan of Johnny Cash and Elvis Presley, so I had to visit the birthplace of rock ’n’ roll: Sun Studios. “If only these walls could talk,” I thought as I followed my guide. I stood behind the same microphone Elvis Presley did when he recorded his first song in 1953, and sat at the same piano made famous in 1956 after a chance meeting and jam session between Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Jerry Lee Lewis, who are now known as the ‘Million Dollar Quartet’. Tip: If you’re a music fan, have some tissues handy. This place is overwhelming. Kelly Turner, Travel Expert, Flight Centre The Pines Elanora, Qld

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05 Shucking oysters

06 Winter experience

07 Standing

What is it: A farm-to-fork destination restaurant. Where: Marshall (near San Francisco), in California How: Head north from San Francisco, about an hour’s drive, to visit Nick’s Cove Restaurant and Oyster Bar. Why: Every table in the restaurant has a view of one of the most beautiful coastal settings in California. The restaurant offers an incredible variety of flavours from both the local farms and the produce in the bay. Tip: It’s worth staying the night at the nearby cottages to make the most of the tranquil surroundings. Jessye Clayton, Travel Expert Flight Centre Earlville, Qld

What is it: Western cowboystyle dinner and sleigh ride. How: Visit Mill Iron Ranch, Jackson Hole, Wyoming Why: It’s a chance to hang out with real cowboys. Have dinner with the former professional rodeo family who operate the ranch, sample the best steaks in Jackson, and enjoy a horse-drawn sleigh-ride through some of the most spectacular winter landscape in Wyoming. Tip: Ask Chancey, the owner, to tell you his riveting story about the mountain lion, and don’t forget your camera – the view includes 1,800 head of elk. More info: Find out more about Mill Iron Ranch online. Jason Smith, operations manager, Scenic Safaris

What is it: A very picturesque bend in the Colorado River. Where: Near the town of Page, Arizona How: We drove south from Page on Highway 89, taking a dirt road exit on the western side of the road. Why: The view of this canyon actually took my breath away because it was so unexpectedly amazing. I think Horseshoe Bend is even more impressive than the Grand Canyon. Tip: Arrive as early as possible to avoid the crowds. The stunning views are so much more amazing when there is no one else around (or in your photos). Gemma Donhou, Travel Expert, Flight Centre Joondalup, WA

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in Jackson Hole

on the edge of Horseshoe Bend

Photos: Alamy, Jesse Clayton, Gemma Donhou, iStock

with the head chef of a restaurant

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T R AV E L M O M E N T S

09 Hiking the

Snowmass Rim Trail

What is it: A hiking trail that lets you take in the beautiful views of Old Snowmass, Mount Daily, and Capitol Peak. Where: Snowmass, Colorado How: Fly direct to Aspen from Los Angeles throughout the winter and summer seasons. Why: Hiking is huge in the summer – if I’m not playing disk golf, I’m hiking. In the winter Snowmass is very family friendly – we have everything from groomers to backcountry and a terrain park. Tip: Always bring water and snacks when you’re hiking – your body is working harder at high altitude. You never know when that one-mile hike will turn into a four-mile hike. James Harvey, Snowmass terrain park crew (winter), and bartender at St Regis Aspen Resort (summer)

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12 Napa Valley

wine-tasting class

Photos: Getty Images, supplied, Jody Overstreet, Victor M. Samuel Photography

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10 Sampling

11 Shooting the

What is it: An exclusive dinner event held in a private vineyard. Where: Near Portland, Oregon How: A mysterious supper club. Why: We had dinner pre-booked for us, and thought it was just at a nice restaurant. We were blown away when we arrived at a wedding-like set-up in the middle of this beautiful vineyard. It was an incredible seven-course meal with wine pairings, all of which was absolutely exquisite. As the day faded to night, fairy lights lined the area and the atmosphere was simply magical. Tip: For any foodie event in Oregon, come with an empty stomach. Katy Hinchcliffe, Travel Expert, Flight Centre Innaloo, WA

What is it: Aerial photo of a feature on Denali. Where: Denali, Alaska How: Book a flightseeing excursion on an air taxi service in Southcentral Alaska. Why: It’s a great way to get perspective, real and figurative. Soaring around the imposing grandeur of a near 550m granite wall erupting from a field of ancient ice is a reminder that nature moves in its own sweet time. Tip: Shoot wide angle to include part of the plane. This helps tell a story and lends perspective to the scene. More info: Jody is owner and guide at Alaska Photo Treks. Ask your local Flight Centre Travel Experts about your own tour. Jody Overstreet, Alaska-based photography tour guide

the best food and wine that Oregon has to offer

Gargoyle from the air

What is it: A variety of wine tasting and wine and food education classes at the world-renowned Culinary Institute of America’s (CIA) newest location at Copia. Where: Downtown Napa, California How: Visit the CIA at Copia’s website for a listing of upcoming classes – wine and food education experiences are offered every day. See ciaatcopia.com/classes. Why: There’s no better way to start your Napa Valley experience than with a stop at the CIA at Copia. The wine and culinary centre in its current form opened in late 2016, and today offers a number of wine and wine/food education experiences, plus a full service restaurant, wine tastings and one of the best culinaryfocused lifestyle retail stores in Napa Valley. This should be the first stop on everyone’s Napa Valley itinerary. Tip: Grab lunch from the on-site Box Office, featuring fresh, tasty salads and sandwiches you can eat overlooking the Napa River, or take with you to enjoy at one of the local winery picnic areas. Michael Honig, chair, Napa Valley Vintners Board of Directors and president, Honig Vineyard & Winery

Make your own memories

Visit your local Flight Centre for help with getting to the USA to discover your own favourite travel moments. Go to flightcentre. com.au or call 131 600 24 hours.

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Elephant Rock, Valley of Fire State Park


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