Climb Tafraout | 100 Classic Climbs by Oxford Alpine Club

The very best mountain rock climbs of the Anti-Atlas

CLASSIC CLIMBS 1ST EDITION | By Steve Broadbent

CLIMB TAFRAOUT

Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas

100 CLASSIC CLIMBS

1st Edition, September 2018 by Steve Broadbent Published in the EU by the Oxford Alpine Club www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk ISBN for this volume 978-0-9935486-6-6 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ©2018 Oxford Alpine Club All uncredited images and design by Steve Broadbent ©2018 Cartography by GeoGraphics

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS In the autumn of 2017 I was lucky enough to be living in Tafraout and the opportunity arose to spend a day climbing with Anti-Atlas regulars Ron Buckley and Jim Nuttall. But what to climb? Seeking reliably good climbing in a mountain setting, we raced up the Adrar Iffran path, dropped packs behind Adrar Umlil and climbed Event Horizon, followed by Guillotine Direct. It was a magical day of mountain rock, and provided the inspiration for this guidebook. As always, putting the guide together has involved the assistance of many people, to whom I owe my thanks. Firstly, my wife, climbing partner, and proof-reader Katja Broadbent has supported the whole project from start to finish and accompanied me for much of the research. Thanks also to Lina Arthur who has, once again, been pivotal both in researching routes and in her role as proof-reader. Climbing all of the routes in this guide took several years, during which I was accompanied and assisted by many climbing partners, including Dave Arthur, Will Benfold, Georgina Brooke, Ron Buckley, Pete Cawley, Caroline Culwick, Elie Dekoninck, Sally Fitton, Diana Gri, Cameron Hall, Anna Lewy, Ben Lister, Matt Mellor, Rachel Mellor, Jim Nuttall, Aileen Robertson, and Mark Stevenson. I must also thank Claude Davies, Malcolm Phelps, and the late Derek Walker for their additional research assistance. Almost certainly there are others, and I apologise for any omissions. Finally, huge thanks to our friends in Tafraout – Lahcen and Mohammed – who have assisted in every aspect of many memorable climbing trips to Morocco, and continue to offer invaluable support to the Tafraout climbing scene.

PLEASE READ THIS! Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The Anti-Atlas is not a suitable destination for novice climbers, and routes described in this guide require relevant experience, skills, and careful judgement. Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained within this guidebook, it remains the author’s personal experience and opinions – mistakes, inaccuracies and disagreements are possible and users should not treat this guide as a substitute for good ‘mountain-sense’.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the author. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement of the author. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club. Front Cover Photograph: Dave Arthur on Dragibus (Mild Severe) on Dragon Rock, with the Samazar valley behind (page 99).

Contents | INTRODUCTION

Town Plan Page 33

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

Lina Arthur in the tricky 5a dihedral on pitch 3 of Orange Rocket (HVS) at Ighir Crags, Afantinzar (page 145). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Contents Area Maps Introduction About This Guidebook Other Guidebooks Maps When To Visit Getting To Tafraout Money Provisions Climbing Gear Health, Safety & Travel Advice People & Culture Religion Standards For Travellers Buying Souvenirs

4 - 12 5 13 13 13 14 17 20 20 20 23 25 25 25 26

Carpets Maison Troc Accommodation In Tafraout Accommodation In The Ameln Valley Accommodation On The North Side Food And Drink Vegetation Wildlife Other Things To Do Other Places To Climb How To Use This Guidebook Grades Tick-List Of Routes Index Of Routes

26 27 28 30 31 32 34 34 43 43 44 45 46 213

INTRODUCTION | Orientation map

Town Plan Page 33

Area Map 1 | Page 6 Tifghelt

Taskra

1:10

71 43

Ayoufis

JEBEL TASKRA

Doudad

Tabnanat

Asseldrar

Hotel Kasbah Tizourgane

1:00

Kasbah Tizourgane Madao

R10

Tiqqi

Area Map 2 | Page 8

IDAOUGNIDIF Lazal Anammer

Anelakht 2

Talmst Hairpins

Tamdkrt 21

Talmst

31 39 67 86

32 45 68 96

81 93 70 29 5 28 6

Asner TANALT

Tajgalt

1:00

38 66 69 97

Tamza

Ogogn 1:30

60 61 35 37 47 50 59 85 91

Anammer

17 18 52

Foussaoun

33 34

Ighir

36 48 49 73 84 92 98

JEBEL EL KEST Hotel Ksar Rock Guest House Anergui

Dwawj

el K est

Hotel Auberge Tilila

Tazult

Amel

Tagmout 0:25

0:10

Tagmout Road

Northside junction

Hotel Tete du Lion

Hotel Chex Amaliya

TAFRAOUT Tazka

ORIENTATION MAP – Tafraout Anti-Atlas 4km

Main (regional) road Provincial route Local road (surfaced) Local road (unsurfaced)

6km

8km

Aguerd Oudad

10km

Aousift

N Route (Difficult – HVD) Route (MS – HS) 65 Route (MVS – HVS) 97 Route (E1 – E2) 0:45 Approximate drive time from Tafraout 6

0:10 12 62 63 64

Area Map 4 | Page 12

2km

58 9

0km

Oumsn

y n Va l l e

Aday

ssi

Ameln

Ait Oumgas

Azouran

Asgaour

Tamaloucht Anammer Igordan

Dwawj Hairpins

0:45

Jebel

Thmani

Douwalus

54 88 53 74 95 46 22 13 14 10 24 25 26

Tagdicht

Tayart

Amaghouz

87 89 55 27 11

Afantinzar Road

1:15

900

1:00

Tifradn

Amzkhssan

R10

Aguerd Ouzrou

7 8

Tnine Toudma

Samazar Road

Aouguenz

3 4 30 40 42

Taltemsen

R1 04

Orientation map | INTRODUCTION

Town Plan Page 33

Introduction

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY

Tafraout Police +212 (0)528 800061 Tafraout Ambulance +212 (0)528 862993 British Consulate +212 (0)528 841219 British Embassy +212 (0)537 633333

Tizi Gzaouine

nat

0:40

Area Map 3 | Page 10

Tagmout Ihouzine

0:30

99 94

Sidi M’Zal

75 100

Aguchtim

Tizi N’Tarakatine

90 20

Tizgut 0:10

78 77 80

Sidi Abdeljabbar

0:20 Idekel

Taghzout

Amarkhssin

I envy anyone making their first visit to Morocco’s Anti-Atlas mountains, for this is one of the most remarkable climbing destinations one could wish for. The bustling town of Tafraout lies in the heart of these ancient hills; an old trading post where local Berbers and nomadic Touaregs have, for centuries, gathered for the weekly market. In more recent years, they have been joined by an ever-growing number of tourists, including hikers, bikers and climbers who come to make the most of the year-round sunshine. During a period of time living in Tafraout, I was lucky enough to meet dozens of visiting climbers, all of them bursting with the same visible excitement that I remember so well from my own first time here, eyes wide with delight, senses overwhelmed. People’s reasons for visiting vary, but they are all united by a love of adventure and solitude, and a closeness to the natural world. Enchanted by a fascinating culture, perhaps captivated by the renowned Berber hospitality, few would argue that this is a climbing holiday unlike most others. From a climbing point of view, Tafraout has a little bit of everything, from bouldering circuits on the fringe of the desert and single-pitch sport crags, to roadside trad climbing and epic thousand-metre adventures on high mountain ridges. It is best known, however, for its tremendous selection of multi-pitch, traditionally protected rock climbs, and it is these routes, set amidst the stunning scenery of the Jebel el Kest massif, that I would find most climbers in Tafraout asking about. That, of course, is what this book is all about. By focusing on the best days out in the region, it will provide a starting point for visitors to sample the very best of what’s on offer here, and whether you have a few days in town or a few weeks, the selection of climbs included in this book should give you plenty to go at. So dive in, immerse yourself in Tafraout’s amazing culture, and enjoy the very best adventures of this incredible climbing oasis...

ADRAR MQORN

Four area maps showing the location of all of the climbs are included at the start of the book so that they are easy to locate. To continue reading the background information, turn to page 13...

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | Area map 4

Town Plan Page 33

Ait Oumgas

Ameln

AREA MAP 4 – Tafraout South 0km

1km

2km

Route (MS – HS) Route (MVS – HVS) 97 Route (E1 – E2) P Parking spot

5km

Tadart Ameln roundabout

Orientation Map page 4

R10

Main (regional) road Provincial route Local road (surfaced) Ighaln Local road (unsurfaced) Poor track / piste

3kmVa l l e y 4km e6 l n m A Route (Difficult – HVD)

Tocho de Tafraout

Azrou Ouadu

TAFRAOUT Maison Troc 04

Ighir N’Targant

Tazka Road Tazka

Aday

Imyane P

Aday Road Tazka Domes

Napoleon’s Hat

Aguerd Oudad

Afella Ouday

OUDAFNE

Aousift Dou Toulzoukht

Painted Rocks

AKHADEJ

P 12 62 63 64

EFLODNE

R105

Other guides & maps | INTRODUCTION

Town Plan Page 33

ABOUT THIS GUIDEBOOK This book is a selective guide featuring one hundred ‘classic’ rock climbs around Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas. Although a few single-pitch routes have been included (usually when they are part of obvious link-ups or enchainments), the focus is on multi-pitch routes and full-day adventures. There are, therefore, many excellent single-pitch crag climbs which are not described here and climbers looking for ‘cragging’ routes are advised instead to consult the Moroccan Anti-Atlas guidebook. It should be noted that the climbs chosen for inclusion are not the best hundred routes in the area; to do so would not only be subject to the vagaries of personal opinion, but would also lead to a very narrow perspective on grades and styles. Instead, the routes have been chosen to give an overall impression of Tafraout climbing, encompassing a representative spread of grades and styles whilst acknowledging the historical significance of certain routes in the development of climbing in this region. The result is a list of one hundred excellent climbs that epitomise Tafraout’s superb adventure-climbing potential. Other Guidebooks Two other Climb-Tafraout guidebooks accompany this edition, and are available for sale on our website at www.climb-tafraout.com Moroccan Anti-Atlas A landmark guidebook to approximately 1500 traditionally protected rock climbs on the quartzite of Jebel el Kest, including everything from singlepitch cragging to 800m mountain adventures across both the north and south sides of the range. Tafraout Granite The only printed guidebook to almost 250 routes on the superb granite domes around Tafraout and Aguerd Oudad, including sport climbs, trad climbs, and selected bouldering circuits, all within a few kilometres of town.

ONLINE RESOURCES Before you visit Tafraout, make sure you check out our website for latest updates, free stuff, and discounts: • Online trip planner, with flight, car hire and accommodation advice. • Exclusive discounts on Tafraout hotels. • Packing lists, maps, and other useful resources for your trip. • Free downloads, including topos and maps. • Guidebook updates and new-route information. www.climb-tafraout.com

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing

Maps Until recently the Anti-Atlas region was poorly mapped and finding your way around was notoriously difficult. Today, however, the area is covered by three series of GeoGraphics maps, all of which will be of interest to the climber: Tourist Explorer Map 1 This double-sided map features a 1:750,000 road map of southern Morocco, as well as a 1:150,000 ‘piste map’ of the Anti-Atlas from Ait Baha to Tafraout, perfect for exploring the area by car or bike. Outdoor Activity Maps 1-5 The whole area is covered at 1:500,00 scale by this series of handy A2 MiniMaps, great for finding your way to the crag in the car and on foot. Also useful for exploring the range on rest days and bad weather days. Adventure Map 2 For hikers and trekkers wishing to explore the Jebel el Kest escarpment on foot, this 1:25000, A1 MiniMap represents the most detailed mapping of the Anti-Atlas region currently available. Sheet maps can be purchased in our online store at www.climb-tafraout.com

Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | When to visit

Town Plan Page 33

Snow on the summits is not unusual, even when it’s a pleasant 26 degrees in town. Warm clothing is therefore essential on the higher routes between November and March. Photo: Steve Broadbent

When to visit Throughout the winter months Tafraout has an almost perfect climate for climbing. The long winter season, which runs from late September right through to the end of April, is one of the biggest attractions for climbers looking to escape the wet European weather. Although Tafraout can see rain at any time during the winter, it is rare and unlikely to spoil a climbing trip. Likewise, an unusually cool airmass can sink down from Europe, bringing surprisingly chilly temperatures to the higher mountain crags. Climbers visiting the area between November and March are, therefore, advised to bring lightweight waterproofs, whilst thermal shirts or fleeces will almost certainly be required throughout the season. Of course, during the heat of the day, temperatures in the high twenties will necessitate cool, loose clothing when climbing. Typical conditions are as follows: September - October As the summer heat begins to subside in late September, conditions are usually hot and dry. Thunderstorms are possible, though rare, and prolonged rain is very unlikely. North-facing crags come into their own, whilst the south-facing crags can be unbearably hot during the heat of the day. Daytime temperatures vary between 20 and 30 degrees.

November - December Traditionally this is the wet season, but don’t let that put you off as rain is rarely prolonged enough to put a stop to climbing. Temperatures can get quite chilly, particularly in the shade or during the evenings, and thermal clothing will be required. January - February The early Spring can be unpredictable – if the autumn was wet then January and February are usually dry, with pleasant temperatures around 15 to 20 degrees and long periods of clear skies and perfect climbing conditions. If, however, the autumn was very dry then rain frequently falls in the early spring and snowfall on the summits is not unusual – be sure to bring warm clothing. March - April Spring usually gives excellent climbing conditions, with hot daytime temperatures (between 15 and 25 degrees) and long periods of sunshine. Exceptionally, winter rain can persist right through to the end of March, though this is unlikely. The land is usually green, with pink almond blossom and wild flowers creating a particularly spectacular landscape.

Town Plan Page 33

When to visit | INTRODUCTION

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

Caroline Culwick on the magnificent final pitch of Central Pillar (HVS) on Adrar Iffran. Steep walls, good holds and exposed climbing make Anti-Atlas routes particularly rewarding for the VSâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;HVS climber (page 133). Photo: Steve Broadbent

INTRODUCTION | Getting to Tafraout

Spacewalk (HVS) on Crag W above Tifghalt was one of the original classic climbs of the Ameln Valley. Ron Buckley on the spectacular traverse, pitch 2 (page 175). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Town Plan Page 33

Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION

Town Plan Page 33

overland adventure to Tafraout, and direct bus services run from both cities. The best service, routing from Marrakech to Tafraout via Agadir, Inezgane, Ait Essaouira Melloul, Tiznit, Idaousmlal and Ait Wafka is operated Chichaoua by CTM, and tickets can be booked at www.ctm.ma. S the outbound journey often fill up several  Non Seats AI Tdays Asni in advance and so prior booking is advised. N OU Imi-N-Tanoute For the return journey it is usually possibly to book S M A L seats at the CTM office in Tafraout the evening before T H A travel. The bus leaves Tafraout every day at 8am, HIG taking about 9 hours to reach Marrakech. Taliouine From Agadir it is also possible to reach Tafraout by Grand Taxi. The airport is located out of town, so AGADIR Taroudant travellers wishing to benefit from down-town rental rates or take public transport to Tafraout will need  UNTAINS O M to go by taxi into the city (about 150 dirhams). The Biougra S Igherm A onward journey from Agadir bus station is usually L Ait Baha T made via Tiznit, for which it is advisable to negotiate a -A price before travel (30 dirhams is normal). The Grand Tiznit Taxis will wait until they are full before departing, and TAFRAOUT this can take up to an hour. At Tiznit you will often be dropped off at the south-eastern side of the town walls, from where you will need to walk round the Getting to Tafraout outside of the walls (or get a red taxi) to Ave du 20 The oasis town of Tafraout (alternatively Tafraoute Aout, which runs out of the wall at Bab Mechouar, on or Tafrawt) is located in the Anti-Atlas mountains, in the south-western side. The Grande Taxi lot is at the the southwest of Morocco. It is most easily reached end of Ave. du 20 Aout, where it is easy to get a seat by car from Agadir (a 2½ hour drive) or Marrakech to Tafraout for about 30 dirhams. (a 5½ hour drive). Climbers’ Airport and Crag Transfers Flights Although not the cheapest option, private transfers A number of UK airlines operate services to Agadir Al are available through Tafraout-based Maison Troc, Massira, with return flights typically costing between who offer airport pick-ups, as well as lifts to and £180 and £300 per person. Ryanair, British Airways, from crags. This service can also be useful for hikers easyJet, Thomas Cook and Thomson services operate wishing to leave their car at one end of a walk. from a variety of UK airports, though flights are Contact Lahcen on +212 67303909 to arrange. limited and can be expensive at short notice. Hiring a Car Flying to Marrakech Menara is usually a cheaper alternative, and most major airlines run daily flights Most climbers visiting Tafraout will want to hire a car from a wide variety of European airports. Return for the duration of their stay, and it is advisable to flights from the UK typically cost between £130 and book online before your trip. All major rental agencies £250. have desks at both Agadir and Marrakech airports, and good deals have been found through brokers Public Transport such as Holiday Autos and Rhino Car Hire (discount available at www.climb-tafraout.com. Renting a car is the easiest way to reach Tafraout and get around once you’re there, but as most of Although many of Tafraout’s crags are accessed via the granite is fairly close to town, a trip by public unsurfaced tracks (known as pistes), 4WD should not transport is certainly feasible. be necessary provided care is taken. A standard car Tafraout is served by a variety of inter-city bus typically costs between £150 and £200 per week services and taxis (of the grand and petit varieties), at Agadir or Marrakech airports. The quality of cars which make a trip by public transport perfectly has been found to be generally poor, with bald tyres, unserviceable equipment and missing jacks feasible, if a little adventurous. frequently reported. Agadir and Marrakech both serve as bases for an

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing

MARRAKECH

Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | Getting to Tafraout

Town Plan Page 33 AGADIR

N8 towards A7 and Marrakech

Atacadao supermarket & Decathlon

A7 from Marrakech

Inezgane AGADIR

N10

Care! Follow signs to airport

Turn right out of airport onto P1714

Big, walled compound (palace)

N10

Inezgane

P1714 to airport and Tafraout

Turn right at roundabout onto P1009

Big quarries

R10

El Halat

P1009

Steep hill

Hilala

AIT BAHA

Bus station & taxi rank

Back street is easiest way through town on return to airport

sk ra

R10

BIOUGRA

Winding mountain road with mileposts showing Tafraout distances

Big reservoir at Tlata Uoanass

a el T Je b

R105 – slower way to Agadir

Sidi M’Zal

l el Kest Jebe

BI O U G R A D

Kasbah Tizourgane Madao

Idaougnidif

R105 towards Ait Baha and Tafraout

AI T E

Turn left at Ameln roundabout

TAFRAOUT ra r

Tahala Motorway | Junction | Services National Route Regional Route | Town Provincial Route / Minor Road

Ait Abdellah

Ameln

Tanalt

Ait Alla

Imi Mqourn

P1009 towards airport and Agadir

E RD

R10 6

BIOUGRA

AG A D

R10

Biougra – see inset detail

Lkolea

Ait Melloul

P1714 P1009



P1714

Ait Melloul

0km

10km

20km

30km

40km

Roundabout with police check-point

Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION

Town Plan Page 33

Best to avoid driving into city centre

Turn left onto N8 westbound

Marrakech Menara

MARRAKECH



Speed bumps Exit airport, turn right onto R212 2

R21

Turn right at petrol station

Escaping From Marrakech Although Agadir provides the simplest access to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas, many people will choose to travel via Marrakech as part of a wider tour of Morocco, or perhaps to take in the excellent sport-climbing of the Todra Gorge. Marrakech itself is a fascinating city and well worth a visit in its own right. Countless hotels are available to suit all budgets, and the city boasts many excellent restaurants that reflect its modern, cosmopolitan image, as well as more traditional tastes. The central square, Place Jma el Fna, comes alive every evening with a fascinating variety of street artists, snake charmers, and vendors serving a baffling array of dishes, the likes of which you’re unlikely to find anywhere outside of Africa. Surrounding the square is one of the best examples of a Moroccan souq (market) that you’ll ever see, and getting lost amongst its maze of narrow streets is a brilliant way of working up an appetite for a meal of sheep brain or eyeballs back in the square – assuming you can find your way back, that is. For car drivers, however, the centre of Marrakech is best avoided. Frequent buses run from the airport terminal to the centre of town, so it’s usually easier to leave your rental car at the airport and explore the city on foot. At some point, of course, you’re going to want to drive from Marrakech to Tafraout (for some, this happens sooner rather than later). Exit the airport and turn right at the roundabout onto the R212. Continue for approximately 4.2km to a right turn

at the edge of the built up area. There is a useful petrol station here for filling up on your return to the airport. Continue north for 5.8km, then turn left on the N8 – this junction is usefully signposted to the airport on your return journey. Either follow the N8 through Oudaya to the motorway, or take the signposted route via the P2006. The journey along the A7 motorway to the Agadir/ Inezgane/Ait Melloul ring road takes about 2 hours, and costs approximately 80Dh in tolls. The Drive from Agadir Agadir Al Massira airport is located conveniently to the east of the city, so there’s no need to drive into Agadir itself. From the airport, turn right and follow the P1714 for 5km to the first major roundabout. Turn right here onto the P1009 and continue to Biougra. This large market town can be very busy during rush hour or on market day, when pedestrians, donkeys, lorries, oblivious locals, and out-of-their depth westerners all share the road into town. At night it is worth paying particular attention to cyclists, who rarely have lights and frequently cycle on the wrong side of the road. The road comes to an end at a major T-junction. Turn left here, following the R105 out of town and on towards Ait Baha. Note that on the return journey it is not possible to turn right from the R105 back onto the P1009, so a better way is to take the back-street shortcut shown on the inset map. Continuing along the R105 a large quarry is passed on the left, just before the road begins its climb into the hills. Ait Baha is reached in approximately 45 minutes. Keep going straight on, passing the edge of town (there is a police station on the left). Beyond Ait Baha bear right at the junction (i.e. follow the main road) and continue until the road snakes past a large reservoir. Just after this there is a fork – both roads lead to the same place, but since road widening work in 2017 it is now easier just to stay on the main road (i.e. go straight on). The two roads come back together again just before the famous Kasbah Tizourgane. Here the north side of Jebel el Kest provides a magnificent backdrop to one of the best examples of a Moroccan Kasbah, and for climbers the sense of excitement grows, as vast quartzite crags begin to drift in and out of view to the southwest. Keep on the main road, following it past Madao (Madaw), Sidi M’Zal, Tizi N’Tarakatine, and then to a

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | Travel advice

Mark Stevenson on the spectacular Firesword (E2) on Dragon Buttress. This sun-kissed wall of golden quartzite gives one of Moroccoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best multi-pitch crag climbs, and should be high on any climberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s list of aspirations (page 203). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Town Plan Page 33

Travel advice | INTRODUCTION

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info

Atmospheric conditions over Tafraout as a winter storm passes through. Photo: Steve Broadbent

Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing

Health, Safety & Travel Advice Morocco, and particularly the Tafraout area, is generally a safe place for travellers, and there are no restrictions on travel. To date, no problems have been reported by climbers visiting Tafraout. Immigration British, European and American nationals do not require entry visas to Morocco for visits lasting less than 3 months. Passports must be valid for the duration of your stay in the country. Road Safety Morocco has a very poor road safety record, and all visitors are advised to exercise caution on the roads. Numerous speed checks and visible police check-points will be encountered en route to Tafraout, and cash fines for even minor offences are dished out freely, with some police officials seeming more 'law-abiding' than others. The motorway between Marrakech and Agadir is a particular hotspot for speeding fines. Drinking Water Most properties in Tafraout are now connected to mains water, which is treated and theoretically safe to drink. More rural properties still rely on wells and ground water, the drinking of which is not recommended. Bottled water is widely available, and may be preferable, particularly for longer visits. Vaccinations & Disease Morocco is not a particularly high-risk destination, though some diseases which are not common in the UK are prevalent in the country. For climbers

visiting Tafraout for short trips (up to 4 weeks) and staying in a hotel, no vaccinations are required. Rabies still exists in the area, and numerous waterborne diseases, including schistosomiasis, mean that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth avoiding the temptation to take a cooling dip in mountain pools. Tetanus is common, and travellers are advised to make sure that boosters are up to date before their visit. For visitors staying for longer than 4 weeks, or those wild-camping for extended periods, vaccinations may be advisable, and a visit to your GP is recommended. Hepatitis A, hepatitis B, TB and typhoid are all prevalent in the country and vaccinations may be recommended dependent on the nature of your trip. Finally, it is worth mentioning that any injury that requires medical treatment during your stay should be referred to medical professionals on your return to the UK â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even relatively small wounds have been known to become seriously infected, and gangrene has been reported following medical treatment in Tafraout. Medical Facilities There are no organised rescue services in the region and all visitors must take responsibility for their own well-being in the area. A pharmacy in Tafraout provides a range of first-aid equipment, and a small health centre will treat minor ailments. More serious conditions will be referred to the nearest hospital in Ait Baha or Agadir, where treatment will be on a 'pay as you go' basis, though this is not expensive. Emergency telephone numbers can be found on page 5.

Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | Accommodation in Ameln

Accommodation in the Ameln Valley A number of small guest-houses and hotels provide accommodation in the Ameln Valley, with the advantage of being very close to some of the south-side crags. It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that there are very limited facilites here, and trips into Tafraout are likely to be required for supplies, or any variety of food. For those with a car, the average driving times to the crags are similar to those when staying in Tafraout, although climbers travelling on foot will benefit from the proximity to a limited number of crags.

HOTEL CHEZ AMALIYA 

  BAR

AIR CON

Map p10

This very pleasant, European-owned hotel is located close to the main junction in Ameln. It offers very attractive, authentically decorated and family-friendly rooms in an superb setting beneath the Lion’s Face. A very picturesque swimming pool and terrace are particularly appreciated on hot days. Email: info@chezamaliya.com Website: http://www.chezamaliya.com Tel: +212 (0)528 800065 Rooms: 330Dh (single) | 500Dh (Double) | 1000Dh (Suite)

Town Plan Page 33

HOTEL TÊTE DU LION 

 BAR

Map p10

Also located close to Ameln, this hotel is a good option for those wishing to explore the Ameln valley who don’t mind being away from the amenities of Tafraout. The rooms are basic, but clean, and excellent home-cooked food is available in the evenings. Alcohol is also available. Email: latetedulion@yahoo.fr | tetedulion@tafraout.info Tel: +212 (0)528 801165 Rooms: 250Dh (single) | 300Dh (Double) | 350Dh (Triple)

AUBERGE TILILA 

Map p10

Basic accommodation in the village of Asgaour, close to the Lion’s Face and within walking distance of several good crags. Email: abraz70@hotmail.fr Rooms: Prices on request.

The Ameln valley, with greenery flourishing following the winter rains.

Town Plan Page 33

Accommodation on the north side | INTRODUCTION

Accommodation on the North Side Accommodation on the north side of Jebel el Kest is very limited, and the lack of provisions and facilities mean that most teams will feel the need to visit Tafraout to re-stock at some point during their trip. Access to the north-side crags is obviously much quicker, and the following guest houses can provide an excellent base for a few days exploring the northern part of the range.

KASBAH TIZOURGANE 

Map p4

The magnificent walled Kasbah at Tizourgane is one of the most impressive pieces of Moroccan architecture in the region, and staying at the small family-run guest house in the heart of the fortified village is a great way to see a little bit of genuine Berber culture. The Kasbah is ideally situated for climbing on the north side of the range, and has become correspondingly popular amongst climbers in recent years, particularly those who aren’t keen on long drives. Homecooked food is available in the evenings, but the variety can be rather limited and no alcohol is available. Rooms can be quite cold in winter months, so warm clothing is advised... Email: info@tizourgane-kasbah.com Website: http://www.tizourgane-kasbah.com Tel: +212 (0)661 941350 Rooms: 360Dh (Double) | 540Dh (Triple)

KSAR ROCK GUESTHOUSE 

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Map p4

Located in Anammer village, underneath the south face of Ksar Rock, this small guest house provides unique accommodation for climbers, within easy walking distance of some of the best climbing in the range. The accommodation is basic, but the young owners, Mahfoud and Fatima, speak good English and French, and their kind hospitality will add a fascinating cultural experience to any climbing trip to the area. A double bedroom and one family room (5 beds) are available, alongside a comfortable dining room / social area and outdoor breakfast terrace with fine views across the valley to Lower Eagle Crag. Accommodation is provided on a full-board basis, including dinner, bed, and breakfast. A fridge is available for guests’ use, so if you can manage a supermarket visit in Agadir then you can enjoy a cold beer at the end of the day! The guesthouse is located on the left, as you walk up through Anammer, just before the end of the village. Email: mahfoudabdoun@gmail.com Tel: +212 (0)671 897796 | +212 (0)648 475447 Rooms: Approx 300Dh (two people, full board)

MADAO GUESTHOUSE A small cafe / guesthouse in Madao provides accommodation that might be useful for climbers on a budget. Rooms: 220Dh (room with breakfast)

The Kasbah Tizourgane near Idaougnidif is a spectacular example of a traditional kasbah. A small guest-house provides convenient accommodation, though amenities are limited.

Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | Strategy & ethics

Town Plan Page 33

Mark Stevenson tackling Ksarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cannon Tower via Solar Event (E2). It is possible to arrange a belay on the ledge to the left, though many people choose to run this route out as one epic 55-metre pitch (page 195). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Strategy & ethics | INTRODUCTION

Town Plan Page 33

Ethics

A classic Anti-Atlas benightment. Do not underestimate how cold it can get overnight at 2000m, even when it’s 25 degrees in town.

STRATEGY Routes vary from friendly single-pitch outings to long full-day mountain adventures. Whilst walk-ins are generally quite short, descents can be long and involved, and almost impossible to locate in the dark. Overnight temperatures at 2000m drop to freezing, and all parties setting off on long routes should carry spare clothing, food, head torches, and a survival blanket at the very least. Unplanned bivouacs are neither pleasant, nor uncommon. Mobile phone coverage is generally good, so it’s always worth carrying a phone in your pack in case medical assistance is required, though no organised mountain rescue service exists. A selection of useful numbers can be found on page 5. EQUIPMENT Protection is generally good, and pitches can be quite long, so a comprehensive rack is advisable. In general, the rock is well suited to camming devices, and a full set, with some doubles, will be required on longer routes. A set of nuts and a few hexes will complete a typical Anti-Atlas rack, along with extra slings and a good range of extenders and quickdraws.

Despite it being more than 20 years since the first British pioneers began to open up the quartzite crags of the Anti-Atlas, Jebel el Kest is still a ‘developing’ destination. Today, a huge variety of climbing styles, ever-increasing visitor numbers, and the proximity to Tafraout’s granite sport crags create the potential for conflicting ethics in the region, particularly given the lack of historical foundation. Quartzite provides an ideal medium for adventurous traditional climbing, with a combination of solid natural protection and challenging un-protectable walls which will provide obvious temptation to bolters. In recent years a number of bolted lines have appeared on quartzite crags, and although these have predominantly been single pitch cragging venues, alarming reports of a bolted line up the Lion’s Face itself hint at a potential conflict in the future. To date, these isolated bolted routes have been established with an apparent disregard for – or lack of knowledge of – the ‘local’ ethic: in some cases accidentally retro-bolting existing traditional climbs. Although it is impossible to dictate how people enjoy the natural environment, climbers are strongly encouraged to help maintain the adventure trad ethic in the Anti-Atlas and preserve its unique appeal. Please do not place bolts on the quartzite of Jebel el Kest or Jebel Taskra, either for protection or anchors. On the granite tors around Tafraout and Aguerd Oudad, on the other hand, bolting has been the norm since the earliest days of climbing in the region. Climbers placing bolts on the granite are encouraged to bolt responsibly, using modern stainless steel bolts. Power drills are currently acceptable in the area, so there should be no excuse for tiny holes and unsafe bolts. Likewise, if you are going to bolt a route then please bring enough hangers – there has been a trend for stealing hardware from neighbouring routes: a practice that spoils the enjoyment of this area for future visitors. Fixed Anchors On popular crags a number of shared rappel routes have been equipped with steel cables or chains in order to avoid ever-increasing amounts of nylon ‘tat’ which is unsightly and does not fare well over the summer in the Saharan Sun. This work has been funded and supported by ClimbTafraout and the local population.

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | Environment

The Environment It goes without saying that all visitors to the Anti-Atlas have a responsibility to preserve the natural landscape, as this magnificent and fragile climbing environment will not last long if we do not respect and look after it. Morocco is a relatively poor, developing Arabic country, and those unfamiliar with such cultures are urged to take heed of advice given in the introductory chapters of this guide. By doing so we will help to preserve the unique appeal of Tafraout’s climbing, its stunning landscape, and important relations with the native Berber people for whom these hills have provided an existence for the best part of 3000 years. • Respect the customs and religion of the local people. • Do not drop litter, even though there may already be ‘local’ rubbish lying on the ground. • Please don’t leave toilet paper at the foot of the crag. This has become a particular problem at Ksar Rock. • Try not to damage ancient terraces or walk across cultivated land. • Keep noise to a minimum and adopt a ‘low-impact’ approach at all times. ACCESS Many of the crags described in this guidebook lie within, or are approached via land that is used by the rural Berbers for agriculture. As well as this, several crags overlook settlements and make use of private tracks for access. At the time of publication the local people are very friendly towards climbers, and no access problems have been reported. In order that this remains the case, all climbers are asked to adopt a low-impact approach when climbing near habitation.

Pilar Martinez relishing the steep moves at the top of the excellent Guillotine Direct (VS) on the southwest face of Adrar Iffran. Júlian Prieto, climbing below, has joined the shared finishing groove from Goldrush (HVS) (page 133). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Town Plan Page 33

Environment | INTRODUCTION

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

INTRODUCTION | How to use Topo title, showing aspect and approach time

Town Plan Page 33

Details of the descent route

QR codes for locations on Google Maps

Crag map, showing parking area and approach route

Yellow line for descent route

Approach route from parking Route topo, showing belays as described

Approach time from parking

Page reference to area map (for driving to the crag) Aspect

Approach route from parking

Drive time from Tafraout Thumb tabs for navigation Route number

Aspect and typical conditions

Strategy – suggestions for what to do with bags, or ideas for enchainments

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK This guidebook is for those days when you want a ‘guaranteed’ quality day out – reliably good climbing and enough information to get you to the route, up the climb, and back down without wasting hours getting lost along the way. This approach is a departure from traditional guidebook style and it is intended to compliment rather than replace the region’s more definitive guides. Routes are arranged (rather loosely) in order of overall seriousness – Great Slab being just about the easiest multi-pitch route in the area, and Eros being one of the most serious within the grade range covered by this guide (Difficult – E2). The book is broken down into four chapters as follows: Difficult – Hard Very Difficult Mild Severe – Hard Severe Mild Very Severe – Hard Very Severe Extremely Severe E1 – E2 It should be noted that whilst all of the climbs described in this book are very worthwhile, they are not the hundred best climbs – instead we have selected one hundred routes that give a good

Guidebook description of the route

Other routes on this or nearby crags

representation of the variety of climbing on offer in the area, with a reasonable spread throughout the grade range. In this way, the book should appeal to the majority of climbers, and whether you’re looking for an easy but quality mountain day, or to push yourself on something that you’ll find challenging, 100 Classic Climbs will fit the bill. Each route (or pair of routes in some cases) is given a double-page spread that should contain all the information you need once you leave the car – handy for taking a photograph on your phone if you don’t want to carry the book with you. To get from Tafraout to the crag, however, you’ll need an additional map; for this an orientation map and more detailed area maps are located at the very front of the book so that you can find them easily. Page references to the relevant maps are also given with each route. Finally, it’s worth reiterating that the main aim is to have fun. Use this guidebook to help you, but please don’t expect it to tell you everything! Mistakes and inaccuracies are possible, and people’s opinions on climbs will always vary. If you have feedback or corrections then we’d love to hear from you at www.climb-tafraout.com.

Grades | INTRODUCTION

Town Plan Page 33

ONLINE MAPS AND GPS

Area Maps

It should be possible to locate all of the climbing in this book without the use of GPS or online maps, although online mapping is available for those who wish to use it. Google Maps is the most commonly used application, and whilst it will not currently give step-bystep driving directions in Morocco, it can be very useful for locating crags. Latitude and longitude coordinates can be entered directly into Google in the given format. For example, to find the parking for Great Slab (see page 51), simply enter 29.75274, -8.93448 into Google Maps. Alternatively, scan the QR code from the topo to get a direct link to the Google Maps location. Step-by-step driving directions are not currently available in Google, but are provided in applications such as Maps.Me, using Open Street Map data. Although not as reliable as Google, this application is useful for navigation when driving further afield in Morocco. A third useful application is Locus Map, which provides GPS tracking and a variety of map overlays which can be useful when out and about on foot in the Anti-Atlas. Grades The grading of routes is always a contentious task, and inevitably reflects an element of personal opinion. The difficulty is compounded by the huge variety of climbing in the Anti-Atlas, as it is hard to compare the challenges of a 1500m mountain route to those found on a single-pitch crag climb. Users of this guide should, therefore, treat the grades with a degree of caution, perhaps starting with easier routes until familiar with the style of climbing here. Trad Climbs These are graded using UK trad grades. This is a two-part grading system, involving both an adjectival grade and a tech grade. The adjectival grade describes the overall difficulty of a route, taking into account how well protected it is and how sustained it is. The tech grade describes how technically difficult the hardest move is on a route. For example, a route on which the hardest move is UK tech 5b would be given E1 5b if it was very bold or very sustained, or HVS 5b if it was safer and had fewer hard moves. Sport Climbs Bolt-protected sport climbs are graded using the French system, which describes the overall difficulty, taking into account how technically hard the moves are as well as how sustained they are. In the above example, the E1 5b might be F6b, where the HVS 5b might by F5c. An approximate comparison between various grading systems is shown on the table opposite.

Adjectival

Difficult

USA French Aus

Severe Hard Severe

4b Mild Very Severe

Very Severe

Hard Very Severe

E2 E4

5c E3

E6 6c

Wildlife The Climbing

Tick List

10 11

5.5

5.6

13 14

5.7

F4+

5.8

F5a F5b F5c

5.10a 5.10b

F6a

5.10c

F6b

15 16 17 18 19

5.10d

20 21

F6c

5.11b

5.11c

Places to Stay

How to Use

5.11a

Useful Info

5.2

5.9

Getting There

Things to Do

5.4 Mild Severe

Climate

5.1

5.3

Very Difficult

Other Guides

5.11d 5.12a

F7a

5.12b 5.12c

F7b

INTRODUCTION | Graded list

Orientation Map Page 4

TICK-LIST OF ROUTES 1. Great Slab Diff 2. Lavender VD 3. Advent Ridge VD 4. Escher’s Rib Diff 5. Tifina VD 6. Manzakuneen VD 7. Trick or Treat VD 8. Amzkhssan Rib VD 9. Freeway F4 10. Cefn Garw HVD 11. Evening Wall VD 12. NW Buttress F4 13. Central Slabs VD 14. Wild Country VD 15. Black Peter HVD 16. Infinity ridge Diff 17. Curved Ridge HVD 18. Donkey Serenades HVD 19. The Angel’s Crest Diff 20. Millennium Ridge HVD 21. Honeycomb Buttress Sev 22. South Ridge Sev 23. Igiliz-Agouti Traverse MS 24. Sunset Boulevard Sev 25. Northwest Face Sev 26. West Side Story Sev 27. So Much for Sundowners Sev 28. Serengeti Sev 29. Thunder Rib Sev 30. Scrunchie Sev 31. Dragolo HS 32. Dragibus MS 33. Mojo Sev 34. Alabama Buttress HS 35. East Buttress Sev 36. Lady X HS 37. Noah’s Ark HS 38. Apollo HS 39. Dragon Ridge Sev 40. Silverline / Sideburn HS 41. Sun Ribbon Arête HS 42. Snakehike HS 43. Pan’s Labyrinth Direct HS 44. Pinnacle Ridge Sev 45. Dragonstone HS 46. Auld Lang Syne HS 47. Sahara MVS 48. Jedi Groove HVS 4c 49. Civilization HVS 4c

Crag N Aguerd Cioch Hairpin Slabs Hairpin Slabs Fig Tree Wall Fig Tree Wall Amzkhssan Wall Amzkhssan Wall Tazka’s 2nd Dome Adrar Umlil Adrar Umlil Eflodne Adrar Asmit Adrar Asmit Ighir Crags Tagdicht Lower Eagle Crag Lower Eagle Crag Jebel el Kest Upper Prophet Peak Agouti Adrar Umlil Agouti Adrar Umlil Adrar Umlil Adrar Asmit Adrar Umlil Aylim Aylim Hairpin Slabs Dragon Rock Dragon Rock Akida Akida Ksar Rock Ksar Rock Ksar Rock Dragon Rock Dragon Rock Hairpin Slabs Robin Hood Rocks Hairpin Slabs Taskra East Pillars Prophet Peak Dragon Rock Adrar Umlil Ksar Rock Ksar Rock Ksar Rock

p51 p53 p55 p55 p57 p57 p59 p59 p61 p63 p63 p65 p67 p67 p69 p71 p73 p75 p77 p79 p83 p85 p87 p89 p89 p91 p93 p95 p95 p97 p99 p99 p101 p101 p103 p105 p105 p107 p107 p109 p111 p113 p115 p117 p119 p121 p125 p125 p127

Steve Robinson, high on the Cracked Pillar variation (E1) to Aylim’s magnificent Central Buttress (VS). The avoidable variation pitches on this route offer a unique opportunity to push your grade a thousand feet above the valley floor. (page 155). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Graded list | INTRODUCTION

Orientation Map Page 4

50. Paladin VS 4b Ksar Rock 51. Left Ramp VS 4c Crag K 52. Pink Lady VS 4c Lower Eagle Crag 53. Guillotine Direct VS 4c Adrar Iffran 54. Central Pillar HVS 5a Adrar Iffran 55. Event Horizon HVS 5a Adrar Umlil 56. High Sierra VS 5a High Sierra Dome 57. Tower Ridge Direct MVS 4b Afantztgult 58. Flake Quake HVS 5a Flake Quake Dome 59. Great Eastern VS 5a Ksar Rock 60. Orange Rocket VS 5a Ighir Crags 61. The Main of Light HVS 5a Ighir Crags 62. Nutcracker F5c Eflodne 63. Bolero F5c Eflodne 64. Marble Arch F6a+ Eflodne 65. Scimitar Ridge VS 5a Safinah 66. Electron HVS 5b Dragon Rock 67. Proton VS 5a Dragon Rock 68. Jungle Book HVS 5b Dragon Rock 69. Flight of the Phoenix HVS 4c Dragon Rock 70. Central Buttress VS 4c Aylim 71. Multiple Pillars of Pleasure HVS 5a Taskra 72. The Eagleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beak HVS 4c Anergui Upper 73. Aerobat HVS 5a Ksar Rock 74. The Lion King HVS 5b Adrar Umlil 75. Gamma HVS 5a Greek Buttress 76. Crazy Mushrooms Ridge HVS 5b Babouche 77. White Tower Original HVS 5a Tifghalt 78. White Tower Direct HVS 5a Tifghalt 79. The Great Ridge VS 5a Asgaour 80. Spacewalk HVS 4c Tifghalt 81. Labyrinth Ridge VS 5a Aylim 82. Asendrar Welcome HVS 4c The Thumb 83. The Marrakesh Express E1 5a Tramline Slabs 84. Pelez E1 5b Ksar Rock 85. Pour Manger HVS 5b Ksar Rock 86. Brisingr E1 5b Dragon Rock 87. Rock the Kasbah E1 5b Adrar Umlil 88. Leaving Las Vegas E1 5b Adrar Umlil 89. The Golden Compass E1 5b Adrar Umlil 90. Tizgut Crack E1 5b Tizgut Gorge 91. Solar Event E2 5c Ksar Rock 92. Cannon Crack E1 5b Ksar Rock 93. Braveheart E1 5a Fig Tree Wall 94. Great Corner E1 5b Crag ND 95. Voyager E2 5b Adrar Iffran 96. Firesword E2 5b Dragon Rock 97. Game of Thrones E2 5a Dragon Rock 98. If I Sit Still Too Long... E2 5c Ksar Rock 99. Bowline E2 5b Crag ND 100. Eros E2 5b Greek Buttress

p127 p129 p131 p133 p133 p135 p137 p139 p141 p143 p145 p145 p147 p147 p147 p149 p151 p151 p153 p153 p155 p157 p159 p161 p163 p165 p167 p169 p171 p173 p175 p177 p179 p183 p185 p185 p187 p189 p191 p191 p193 p195 p195 p197 p199 p201 p203 p205 p207 p209 p211

Caroline Culwick and Mark Stevenson on the top pitch of Jedi Groove (HVS) on Ksar Rock. Usually combined with the excellent Sahara (MVS), this is one of the most popular routes in the whole range (page 125). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

Difficult â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hard Very Difficult

Katja Broadbent enjoying the superb easy climbing on the upper section of Curved Ridge (HVD), high above Afantinzar on Lower Eagle Crag. The Anti-Atlas mountains are a paradise for climbers looking for long, lowgrade mountain routes on spectacular, clean faces (page 73). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Difficult â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hard Very Difficult

Matt Mellor, high on Infinity Ridge (Difficult) above the village of Tagdicht. With some 23 pitches of low-grade climbing, this route is a treat for lovers of long, traditional mountain adventures (page 71). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Great Slab | UPPER CRAG N

Map Page 10

Map page 10

1:00

 Descent: From the shoulder there is a

short scramble down into the gully behind the crag, which can be followed easily rightwards to the hillside below.

UPPER CRAG N | Great Slab

Scramble down from shoulder into gully Descend rightwards down gully P4 Finish up pleasant arête

P3 Continue up crack towards right arête P2 Follow vague crack up slab

Shallow groove system. Move left to poor belay

Scramble up just left of short black-streaked wall

Aspect: Both the long walk-in and the climb are likely to be in the sunshine, so this is a route best saved for periods of cooler weather when winter sun will be appreciated. Strategy: The descent gully comes out some way below and to the right of the route, so in order to avoid having to climb back up to the base it is best to carry everything up the route with you.

1500

1300

Oum

Belle Vue Palm Tree Buttress Gorge

Ancient Settlement

Upper Crag N

Great Slab

Maison Traditionelle

Mosque

Lower Crag N

160

150

GPS 29.75274, -8.93448Tizgut

1300

1100

Diamond Crag

1200

Recommended approach

or t G

Gorge

Oumsnat

GPS 29.76602, 1400 -8.92910

Great Slab

PARKING 00

ROUTE START

Alternative approach Cemetery

Black Flake Crag

Central Crag N

Aguchtim Gor

Crag P

Aguchtim Flakes

2100

UPPER CRAG N | Great Slab

1200

Crag Q

Map Page 10

1400

osque Valley Slabs

Aguchtim

Track between compounds

Tizgut

1302 1181

Cemetery

1. GREAT SLAB R10

UPPER CRAG N | See area map page 10

T i z g u t ImiAguchtim

AREA MAP page 10

Imi-Tizgut

0:15

1:00

Although barely more than a scramble, Great Slab has plenty to offer those looking for a very easy day out close to Tafraout. Despite the fairly long approach (by Anti-Atlas standards at least), the climb is generally considered to be a short, low-commitment day and the route makes a good introduction for those visiting the area for the first time. That said, protection and belays are notoriously difficult to arrange, and many climbers find themselves running out entire pitches with no worthwhile gear – it is therefore not a great choice for your first lead.1334 Great Slab was first climbed by two of the original pioneers of Tafraout climbing, Paul Ross and Trevor Jones, back in 1995. Having easily reached the top of the slab, the pair attempted to continue up the tempting but much steeper buttress above the shoulder – an endeavour that saw Jones swinging in space whilst his leader rigged a pulley system to haul him to safety. This whole episode was accompanied by a barrage of unhelpful mockery from their companions spectating from nearby Middle Slab Route, who wisely decided that the routes hereabouts are best terminated on the shoulder. The continuation above the shoulder gives a rather poor HVS known as Agony Arête, but most people will scramble down the short step into the gully behind and run away bravely to the bar... Parking: The best approach is from the Aguchtim road, which turns off the main Ameln road between two compounds approximately 1km east of the Oumsnat turning. It is possible to park at various points along this track. Approach: The crag is visible from the valley floor, and it is simply a case of picking the easiest way up the long hillside towards the prominent slab. An alternative approach is possible from the large mosque in Oumsnat village, and whilst this is marginally more interesting, it is much harder to follow in descent and is therefore not recommended. 1. Great Slab Difficult

150m. The prominent curving slab gives a worthwhile

climb on good rock. The climbing is very straightforward, through protection can be difficult to arrange. Start by scrambling approximately 20m up to some stony ledges beneath the easy-angled slabs. 1) 45m. Very easy climbing up the slab with little in the way of protection. Step left to belay at blocks.

Great Slab Lavender Advent Ridge Escher’s Rib Tifina Manzakuneen Trick or Treat Amzkhssan Rib Freeway Cefn Garw Evening Wall NW Buttress Central Slabs Wild Country Black Peter Infinity Ridge Curved Ridge Donkey Serenades Angel’s Crest Millennium Ridge

2) 40m. Step back right and climb a vague crack feature just right of a shallow corner to poor belays in the shallow groove. 3) 30m. Continue straight up the same narrow crack system to reach ledges on the right side of the arête. 4) 35m. Nice climbing up the arête to belay on a small tower at the shoulder. Paul Ross & Trevor Jones, 1995.

Freeway | TAZKA’S 2nd DOME

Map Page 12

Map page 12

 Descent: Head up rightwards over

the fine little summit, then descend the northeast ridge a short way until it is possible to scramble down on the left (north) side of the ridge to the broad col and an easy walk back to the valley.

0:10

TAZKA’S 2nd DOME

Bolted slab right of gully P3

Walk right

Very easy padding, few bolts. Head for right-hand side of cave overhang.

P2 Belay at righthand side of cave overhang

Walk right, then mantel up beside bolt on left wall

Take care not to take left-hand bolted line. This is Cul-de-Sac (F4) Identify correct bolted line straight up from belay (hard to spot)

Trend rightwards along vague ramp system

Crux friction moves F4+

F5a

F5c

Numerous bolted climbs on lower wall, up to 35m lin length. 9

Aspect: This southeast-facing crag warms up quickly during the day and is a great choice during periods of cooler weather. Best avoided in the early season when it can be very hot. Strategy: Although it is possible to cut back along the base of the dome from the descent route, it’s easier to carry everything up the route and descend directly to the car.

Second Dome 1118

Qu ake

Fla ke 00

y lle Va Black Wall 1108

Last house in Tazka village

Cra g

120

ll Wa ck Bla

Bee hives

ROUTE START

The Fortress

Palm Grove Crag

High Sierra

ove

1116

1160

Yellow Tor

Napoleon’s Hat Agadir  1115

1214

AREA MAP page 12

aV alle

9. FREEWAY

1230

GPS 29.69698, -8.98952

Freeway

High Tor 0

all ey

Freeway

FlakeFirst Tor Tazka’s Dome 1207

Tazka’s Second Dome

1230

Tazka Crag

1140

1230

res

First Dome

Central Tor

GPS 29.70170, -8.98649 Tazka Tor

s Pa ga Taz

d Hi

d en

Agadir 1132

Lov ers ’

PARKING Tocho de Tazka

1113

1147

1094

Ci Cirque rqu TAZKA’S DOME | FreewayImyane61 du Soleil e du Sole2nd Tor il

Hidden Valley Tor

Valley

0:10

Agu Ou

ll Va Village Tor rra e i Saddleback Tor S Dove Tor gh i H Tafraout granite has never been as popular as the 1158quartzite of Jebel el Kest, mainly thanks to its crumbly

Sla

Ta zk

TAZKA’S 2ND DOME, South Buttress | See area map page 12

mr kt V alle

Cancho Alto

1230

Pa lm

1080

Cancho n’Targant

110

Ag u

erd

reputation and the historical lack of climbing information. Freeway, however, is one exception, and this pleasant easy climb has become a very popular rest-day over the years. Dark Tor activity Rainbow Tor As well as its convenient location close to Tafraout, one of the big appeals of this route iswthe super little A summit of Tazka’s Second Dome – a magnificent viewpoint from which to survey the extraordinary landscape of granite tors and domes to the south of Tafraout. It’s particularly attractive late in the day, when the striking line of Freeway catches the evening sun perfectly. First Tor The route is fully bolted and can be climbed relatively but for those wanting more, several singleAwmrktquickly, Tor pitch sport climbs lead up to the first belay and can be climbed prior to continuing up the upper pitches. 1160 The first pitch of Freeway is the hardest, featuring well protected but difficult friction moves. Above this, Oudafne Tor things ease considerably and the second pitch is little more than scrambling between verySecond spaced bolts. 1160 An interesting mantelshelf move on the third pitch is easier than it looks, before the route finishes with a Third Tor Agadir final bolted slab in a superb setting. Parking: Follow the road from Tafraout through the village of Tazka to the end of the tarmac. Continue Fourth Tor along the unsurfaced track to the last houses, where there is a large parking area. Tomb Approach: Head south initially along a good track to some beehives on the right-hand side. The track bears right here, but it’s best to cut left across the stream bed to pick up a good cairned path on the east (left) side of the stream. Follow this until it regains the stream directly opposite Freeway – it is then easy to cross the valley and scramble up to the start of the climb. Tamayurt Tor 110

Tam ayur t

Rock s

c Can

Tocho el Regalito

Cantilever Tor

North Tor

Ibrahim

Ancient Berber House

Map Page 12

zo o Ri

Flor de Luna



Sector

100

1061

La Gazelle

Ighir ’Targant

1. Freeway F4

120m. Enjoyable easy padding up the left side of the south face, with fine views from the summit, particularly at sunset. Too easy to be called a sport route, Freeway is best described as an easy multi-pitch route with bolts: great for rest days, kids and bimbles! The route and belays are fully equipped, requiring 10 quickdraws. 1) 35m (F4) Start close to the arête at the left side of the dome. A few tricky slab moves gain easier ground, then an easy traverse leads up rightward to a belay.

1168

2) 45m (F4) Runout padding up bobbly granite. Belay at the right side of a cave. 3) 30m (F4-) Walk up right then mantel up the steep left Wall final bolted wall. Walk up, then to the right, to finishAmalu up the slab. Descend by continuing up over the summit and down the northeast ridge. Steve Broadbent & Anna Piotrowski, October 2013.

Painted Tor 1146



Painted Rocks

The Angel’s Crest | JEBEL EL KEST

Map Page 8

Strategy: The route typically takes 8-10 hours, so it’s worth starting early and travelling light.

Anergui Col Walk over summits to Anergui Col

Easier climbing starts from large terrace

Scrambling Anergui Lower Crag

Follow easiest line up front of buttress

Severe start up lower ridge

Upper part of Anergui village

Map page 8

LOWER CRAG

Angel Peak South Col

Summit of Upper Crag

Aspect: The entire route will be in the sunshine all day, so take plenty of water. Thankfully, however, the high altitude means that it’s not as hot as many crags in the Ameln Valley.

Bold climbing – follow easiest line Anergui Col Anergui Upper Crag C

Walk left to end of terrace Map page 8

UPPER CRAG

Map page 8

SUMMIT

Easy scrambling Crux step (exposed) Descent down West Ridge – follow cairns carefully!

Go up gully to ledge on left wall

 Descent: For the full experience it is best to descend the West Ridge

to the West Col. This is technically easy but requires care with route finding – follow cairns carefully. Alternatively, reverse the South Ridge (tricky) and descend from the South Col. Both descents are notoriously difficult in the dark.

Scramble across to gully on left side of ridge

Start on left wall of gully

Alternative descent from South Col

South Col

Map Page 8

Gre at R am p

2047

2121

JEBEL EL KEST | The Angel’s Crest

2169

NORTH PEAK 2343

West Col

West Rid ge

JEBEL EL KEST

TAGDICHT BUTTRESS

(AFA-N-TIMEZGADIWINE)

2215

2375

Ane

rgui Meadows Anerg

ui Pa

South Ridge

ANERGUI SUMMIT

South Col 2130

Anergui Canyon The Hairpins

ANGEL PEAK

2000

2236

ANERGUI UPPER CRAG

210

2292

2113

0 180

170

190

C Long Crag Pinnacle

AREA MAP page 8

GPS 29.77586, -9.04377

1600

0:40

JEBEL EL KEST | See area map page 8

GPS 29.77631, 1808 -9.04563

Mosque

19. THE ANGEL’S CREST 20

Playground Crag

Anergui

Rid

1620

1794 1700

1800

Anergui Lower Crag

Main Wall

190

220

PARKING 1800 ROUTE START

Central Buttress Well

Black Crag

190

Anergui Col

2000

Parking: There is a large parking area right at the end of the road in Anergui village. Approach: The SW Ridge comes right down to the village, and is easily EAST PEAKaccessed via the obvious gully on2235 its right-hand side.

0:10

1500 Great Slab Lavender 00 14 Advent Ridge Escher’s Rib 00 Tifina 13 Manzakuneen1200 Trick or Treat Amzkhssan Rib Freeway 1100 Cefn Garw Evening Wall NW Buttress Central Slabs 1000 Wild Country A Black Peter Infinity Ridge Anammer Curved Ridge Donkey Serenades Angel’s Crest Millennium Ridge

This tremendous way to the highest point in the range has become a justifiably popular outing and is one of the finest mountain days that Tafraout has to offer. None of the climbing is particularly difficult and many teams will move together or solo all but a few pitches on the Upper Crag. Even then, this is a full-day itinerary in a wild and remote mountain environment, for which an early start and some degree of fitness is required. The descent is particularly difficult to follow, and the route should be studied carefully. 00

17 19. The Angel’s Crest Difficult

~3.5km. A superb link-up, providing a magnificent 1600

mountaineering day out to the highest point in the range. 00 The route is mostly walking, with 15three long sections of climbing on which the grade can be varied as required. 1400 ad i Ro The first (avoidable) pitches are the hardest,efollowed by rgu An unavoidable sections up to ‘Difficult’ in the upper sections. The route starts right from the village, and is usually completed in 6 to 10 hours from car to car. A) The SW Ridge (300m, Severe / Difficult) – The right-hand skyline of the Lower Crag has a couple of pitches of Severe climbing at the start, which can be avoided (sometimes accidentally) by traversing in from a gully on the right. Above a large ledge the climbing becomes steadily easier, eventually petering out into scrambling. B) From the summit of the Lower Crag the Upper Crag is clearly visible. Walk to a col at the foot of the Upper Crag (Anergui Col), from where a grassy terrace leads leftwards across the face. The next pitch of climbing starts from the left end of this terrace.

C) The Angel’s Crest (160m, Difficult) – Climb straight Blue Spring upwards from the end of the terrace on Crag steep, sometimes poorly protected terrain with large holds. Approximately 4 pitches to easier ground. Cheshire Cheese Spr. Crags D) Scramble up over the summit of the Upper Crag, then traverse the western slopes of Angel Peak. Bear right, ascending gradually to the South Col of Jebel el Kest. E) The South Ridge (500m, Easy) – Start from the col at the foot of the south ridge, scrambling up and traversing left to a gully. Go up this to a cairned weakness in the left wall. Climb the wall, trending up left into a groove system. Follow this to easier ground and walk across the face to another gully on the right. The way ahead looks uninviting, but a narrow ledge traverses the left wall close to the top of the gully. There is a tricky exposed step at the end, which can be hard to spot in descent. From here, easier ground leads up rightwards back towards the ridge and up to the summit. Claude Davies & Pete Turnbull, 2003 (SW Ridge.) Steve & Katja Broadbent, 2013 (Angel’s Crest and South Ridge).

Mild Severe – Hard Severe

The author on the Window Cave Traverse pitch of Pan’s Labyrinth Direct (HS) on the East Pillars at Taskra. From a comfortable belay beneath the Window Cave, climbers must teeter rightwards here to gain steep climbing up the right arête. (page 115). Photo: Leanne Common

Mild Severe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hard Severe

Pete Cawley making the crux step from the pinnacle on Pinnacle Ridge (Severe), Prophet Peak, belayed by Aeron Buchanan. After approximately 500 metres of easy climbing, this bold section is the highlight of one of the valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best mountain routes (page 117). Photo: Steve Broadbent

102 East Buttress | KSAR ROCK

Map Page 8

Map page 8

0:10

 Descent: Continue over the summit and

Step slightly right to finish up wild overhanging flake, just right of steep part of groove

Scramble up to summit

P6 4b Variation crack (VS 4b)

Move left into groove P5

descend on the north side, trending left to follow a rake to the West Col. From here, the quickest way down is to bear left and follow a small path between the west face and Anammer Crags. An alternative way cuts back right, traversing under the northern slopes and back up to the East Col, from where it is possible to descend to the base of the climb. Strategy: Since the West Col descent is the easiest option, it’s preferable to carry everything up the climb.

Tricky wide crack

Possible escape – scramble up to summit from left end of ledge

KSAR ROCK | East Buttress

Aspect: South facing with sunshine all day, although the high altitude means that conditions are pleasant for much of the season.

P4 Wide crack next to window cave Easy climbing up square gully

Direct variation – Grand Hotel (VS 5a) P3

Continue steeply up right-hand side of buttress 4a jamming crack up side wall

Possible escape – walk down along terrace

Tricky move onto superb rock pedestal

Belay on higher ledge Ledge at 15m (poor belays)

Ksar Rock Guesthouse

Anammer village

Agrdn

Tazka Ford

KSAR ROCK | East Buttress 103

Map Page 8

amazar per S N

PARKING

ROUTE START

GPS 29.81025, -9.06822

GPS 29.81270, -9.06676

Tamza River Slabs

Isli

Afant

East Buttress 00

Azrol Aeromaine Azrol L’Modda (Ksar Rock)

inz

West Col Afa

Anammer Ou-Magour

Anammer Crags all dW

Gra

MIDDLE EAGLE CRAG

inz

aEastr Col

East Buttress

Ksar Rock Guesthouse 35

tinzar

1500

Black Pyramid

Alksbt

Lower Eagle Crag

The Sanctuary

Maison Rouge

rd Oxfo ess r Butt

Well

1791

35. EAST BUTTRESS

AREA MAP page 8

1:15

0:10

CRAG

at R am

With a short approach, easy descent and some of Morocco’s best roadside trad climbing, Ksar Rock is 2047 understandably one of the most popular crags in the area, famed for its brilliant juggy holds and wellprotected routes on sunny south-facing walls. The East Buttress is one of the only ‘long’ climbs on the crag, weaving its way up between the south and 2121 The route starts innocently enough with east faces via some excellent and varied pitches on perfect rock. a pleasant stepped slab to whet the appetite, before a testing jamming crack leads to an escape onto the south face. The direct variation, Grand Hotel, goes straight up here via a desperate, steep move, but moving left into the square gully provides a neat and sensible solution to the difficulties. Above the gully, a couple of tricky wide cracks step things up a bit before the final pitch up the infamous ‘Penthouse’ wall. Tales of unprotected 4b climbing originate from a direct assault on the wall, but sensible teams will climb up leftwards into the steep groove, where protection calms the nerves. A final step right onto the unlikelylooking overhanging flake makes for a spectacular finish. Parking: Park on the side of the main road, just next to the concrete track leading to Anammer village. Approach: Follow the track into Anammer village. The track ends at the Ksar Rock Guesthouse, the last house on the left. Take a left turn immediately before the guesthouse, passing down an alleyway and under trees behind the houses. Turn left behind the highest building to reach the foot of East Buttress. Gre

Upper Ea

UPPER KSAR ROCK | See area mapEAGLE page 8 gle Crag

35. East Buttress Severe

120m. A magnificent classic climb of great character,

with some excellent and varied pitches. Numerous escape routes make this a low-commitment route, although the steep final pitch provides a tough challenge at this grade. The climb starts at the foot of a long slabby buttress on the right-hand side of the lowest rocks above the village. 1) 20m (-) Climb easily up the pleasant stepped slab to a ledge at 15m. Continue up the steep wall above to a good belay ledge. 2) 20m (-) Go up walls and ledges to a fine pedestal belay overlooking the gully. 3) 20m (4a) The short jamming crack above the ledge provides the first real difficulty of the route, and leads to a ledge on the crest of the buttress. Continue above, climbing the right-hand side of the precipitous buttress to a large ledge beneath a significant steepening.

4) 30m (-) Move left and go up the square gully on good rock. Continue up the blocky groove above to a fine wide crack next to a ‘window cave’ on the right. Follow the wide crack steeply to ledges. 5) 15m (4a) Move right and climb another wide crack to large ledges. 6) 15m (4b) From a high belay, move up left into the groove and follow this to where it narrows at a steepening. Step right here to gain a hidden flake on the face, which provides an exposed and intimidating finale in a magnificent position.

2169 Honeycomb Buttress South Ridge Igiliz / Agouti Sunset Boulevard Northwest Face West Side Story Sundowners Serengeti Thunder Rib Scrunchie Dragolo Dragibus Mojo Alabama Buttress East Buttress Lady X Noah’s Ark Apollo Dragon Ridge Silverline Sun Ribbon Arête Snakehike Pan’s Labyrinth Pinnacle Ridge Dragonstone Auld Lang Syne

Steve & Katja Broadbent, October 2007.

Nearby Routes Noah’s Ark (HS) – p105 Sahara (MVS) – p125 Jedi Groove (HVS) – p125 Paladin (HVS) – p127 Civilisation (HVS) – p127 Great Eastern (VS) – p143

Aerobat (HVS) – p161 Pour Manger (HVS) – p185 Pelez (E1) – p185 Solar Event (E1) – p195 Cannon Crack (E1) – p195

110 Sun Ribbon Arête | ROBIN HOOD ROCKS

Map Page 4

Map page 4 PM

0:10

ROBIN HOOD ROCKS | The Bunny Ears

Unlikely looking move rightwards onto Second Slab

 Descent: There is some exposed climbing from the summit

(end of pitch 11) along the ridge crest, for which ropes may still be required. Start by down-climbing to a ramp on the right (southeast) side of the ridge and follow it down to a ledge system. Go along the ledge and continue along the exposed ridge beyond to reach easier scrambling to the hillside. From here, descend leftwards into the broad gully that runs down the north side of the crag, passing between the Bunny Ears and the smaller buttress of Olympia.

P11 4a First Slab

P10

Second Slab

Easy

Summit Detail Pitch 7 Detail

Traverse right beneath bulge

Small stance in niche

Steep flakes up wall above chockstone

Tree Centenary Balcony

P2 4b

Walk left to shady belay on ledge system

Strategy: It is possible to leave bags at the base of the route and pick them up on the descent. Although this is a fairly long climb, the possibility of escape from the notch on pitch 6 reduces the overall seriousness.

Block belay

Thin moves into shallow groove

Stick to arête for best climbing (bold)

Prominent wide crack (Britannia Crack 4b)

Tricky pull into crack Start up blocks

Aspect: Southwest-facing at relatively low altitude, Robin Hood Rocks has a reputation for being one of the warmer crags in the region, best saved for cooler days.

Block

First overhang

P5 4a

Easy

Knife-edge arête

Second overhang

First Slab

Pitch 7 – wall above chockstone in notch (see detail)

4a P6

P10 4a

Very easy ground along crest to final steep section (pitch 9)

P7 Major notch in ridge, with possible escape left

Superb wall to summit

P11

Outlaw Buttress

1581

ROBIN HOOD ROCKS | Sun Ribbon Arête 111 Tissoura

Map Page 4

Amalou

1240

Tizi Zougzane 1297

Igherm Ait Yahya

1408

Summit of the Bunny Ears

Olympia Buttress

Olympia Buttress Robin Hood Rocks

Outlaw Buttress

Sun Ribbon Arête PARKING

ROUTE START

Roadside Buttress

1316

P101

GPS 29.73007, Adkhs

Dar Tanout

-9.14037

GPS 29.73130, -9.13933

41. SUN RIBBON ARÊTE ROBIN HOOD ROCKS | See area map page 4

Tignatin

AREA MAP page 4

0:40

0:10

The distinctive ‘Bunny Ears’ dominate the skyline of Robin Hood Rocks and are a justifiably popular objective. Sun Ribbon Arête is not only the longest route on these otherwise single-pitch crags, but also one of the most remarkable climbs in the region, combining a very short approach with some distinctly alpine-style climbing and a proper summit experience. The route has several crux sections that provide a variety of tough challenges, interspersed with large stretches of very easy ground over which most teams will move together. Route-finding can be difficult, and care is required to follow the correct line, particularly on the long fourth pitch and the final pitches to the summit. Escape is possible from the top of pitches 1, 2 and 6. Parking: There is ample roadside parking along the P1011 immediately west of Roadside Buttress. Approach: A steep, eroded path leaves the road at a bend beneath Roadside Buttress. Follow this up the left side of the crags, passing the left side of the small outcrop of Outlaw Buttress. Cut right above this along a short path to the start of the climb. 41. Sun Ribbon Arête Hard Severe

510m. The southwest ridge up to the Bunny Ears is an

excellent climb with a distinctly alpine character. Although the route is long, large sections of easy scrambling and walking make it a non-serious outing on which many parties will move together. 1) 35m (4a) Scramble up easy blocks to a pedestal, from where a good crack leads up through steeper ground. Follow this to an excellent slab, and a fine bold finish up the crest of the arête. Block belay. 2) 25m (4b) Move left over blocks then go back up right into a blank-looking groove, which is gained with difficulty (crux). Follow the groove (bold at first) to an easy alpinestyle ridge leading to the Centenary Balcony. 3) 15m (-) Walk left along a shady ledge below the steep buttress above. 4) 40m (4b) From the end of the ledge, climb up, moving left onto a small nose. Continue up some stepped slabs, passing the first overhang to reach the larger second overhang. Climb through this via a weakness on the left side, making a difficult pull up rightwards onto the slab above. (This overhang can also be overcome via a difficult crack through its widest part). Continue up pleasant slabs, trending right to a belay in a niche on the arête. 5) 15m (4a) Go up the knife-edge arête to easy ground.

6) 40m (-) Walk along the ridge crest to belay in a major notch with large chockstones. The approach to Skyline Buttress crosses the route at this point. 7) 35m (4a) Climb the wall beyond the chockstone, trending up left to blocks on a ledge. Step up onto a smooth ledge on the left, then move up right of the small overlaps to belay on easier ground. 8) 140m (-) Scrambling and walking along the ridge to where it begins to steepen. 9) 40m (-) Continue up to a small rib which leads up to First Slab. Enjoyable climbing up this gains a belay on the right. 10) 25m (4a) Step left into a short groove, and make an unlikely-looking exit rightwards onto the front of the Second Slab. Go up this to a belay on the right of the highest ear. 11) 20m (-) Pleasant climbing on good holds up the right side of the ear, finishing up a shallow groove to the summit. 12) 80m (-) From the summit, continue along the ridge, dropping down onto the right (south) side initially to bypass a steep section. About 80m of very enjoyable ridge scrambling gains the hillside.

1261

Honeycomb Buttress South Ridge Igiliz / Agouti Sunset Boulevard Northwest Face West Side Story Sundowners Serengeti Thunder Rib Scrunchie Dragolo Dragibus Mojo Alabama Buttress East Buttress Lady X Noah’s Ark Apollo Dragon Ridge Silverline Sun Ribbon Arête Snakehike Pan’s Labyrinth Pinnacle Ridge Dragonstone Auld Lang Syne

Steve Broadbent & Elie Dekoninck, December 2008 (pitches 1&2). Steve Broadbent & Sarah Pemberton, November 2012 (from the Chockstone Notch). Steve & Katja Broadbent, October 2016 (pitches 3 to 6).

122 Mild Very Severe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hard Very Severe

Lina and Dave Arthur on the upper section of the magnificent Tower Ridge (VS) on the west face of Afantztgult. This 450m adventure features an exciting free-hanging abseil from the Great Tower to gain some superb and exposed climbing on the upper ridge. (page 139). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Mild Very Severe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hard Very Severe 123

Georgina Brooke enjoying tremendous exposure on the White ArĂŞte pitch of Asendrar Welcome (HVS). Few routes offer such sustained steepness at this grade. (page 179). Photo: Steve Broadbent

134 Event Horizon | ADRAR UMLIL 5

Map Page 8

Map page 8 PM

1:00

 Descent: To return to the base of

the climb, scramble down off the back (east) side of Tower 5 and turn right, following the Iffran path around the south side of the Fifth Tower. If you’ve approached via the Iffran path and left bags near the col, however, then it’s a quick descent via the Iffran path back to Tassila.

UMLIL 5 | West Face

Wide crack

Nearby Routes P4

South Ridge (S) – p85 West Side Story (S) – p91 So Much for Sundowners (S) – p93 Guillotine Direct (VS) – p133 Central Pillar (HVS) – p133 The Lion King (HVS) – p163

Steep, juggy climbing

Grassy gully Prominent white fin P3

Steep flakes 4c

Exposed moves up left across side wall P2

Belay in niche

P1 4a

Pull up right onto tiny stance on right wall Climb gully or rib

easy

Strategy: If climbing another route on Adrar Umlil it is best to approach via the Umlil path and leave bags at the base. If not, or if climbing another route on Adrar Iffran or Adrar Asmit, consider approaching via the Adrar Iffran path and leaving bags at the top of the route – this permits a quick descent to Tassila via the Iffran path.

Scrambling up gully

Aspect: The crag faces southwest and gets sunshine from late morning. Conditions are generally good throughout the season, but it is best avoided in poor weather.

Amzkhssan Wall

P19

Amzkhssan

Map Page 8 Deepwell Pinnacles

Bastion

k mz

ADRAR UMLIL 5 | Event Horizon 135 ROUTE START

PARKING N

Tassila

Agard Imoul

Brokeback Mountain

GPS 29.82222, -9.02001

150

ADRAR IFFRAN

Buzzard TowerSlabs 2

Crystal Walls

Adrar Umlil Tower 3

1847

BOAR PEAK Twin Towers Crag

1910

all lla V

ADRAR ASMIT 1955

Umlil Path

190

1800

Gully at end of Brussels Cliffs

1821

1800

55. EVENT HORIZON

AREA MAP page 8

190

ADRAR AIYUR

1900

2060

oh’s HARRAM PEAK ss

HIGH CRAG

2264

RAR AWYIL

1:00

From the ground, the hanging buttress up which Event2061 Horizon wends its way looks impossible to access and even harder to climb. In fact, the moves from the first belay onto the upper buttress are only mildly traumatic, and as height is gained the quality of this climb becomes increasingly apparent. Ramps, flakes, and grooves lead ever upwards, sustained but never desperate, until the route reaches a fine finale in the wide upper crack. From the top, the connoisseur (who has left any excess gear on the Iffran path) will jog across the high pastures for a route on the southwest face of Adrar Iffran, rounding off one of the best mountain days in the Anti-Atlas. Parking: Continue up the Amzkhssan road above the village of Amzkhssan, past large concrete drainage works and landslide defences. Just after this, the road swings right and there is a blind turning leading 2240 JEBEL TIZGUI downhill on the left, signed to Tassila and Agrd Imoul. Follow this to the Cascade d’Iffni waterfall. 2298 of the Tassila Road it may be prudent to park at the waterfall and continue Depending on the condition u tea in good condition then it is possible to drive as far as Tassila village, where there is a on foot. If the track lais iP gu s Tiz 2133 as small parking area on the right. Please take care not to obstruct access or block turning areas. tP ich 2293 gd a T Approach: The traditional approach follows the Umlil path, which starts from the road next to a tiny 2280 below Tassila village. From here it traverses up the hillside beneath Brussels Cliffs before bridge just ascending a short gully to a point directly beneathT Tower 2. ag d i c which leaves the road above Tassila village and An alternative approach can be made via the Iffran path, ht d o w s the col between Umlil 5 and Adrar ascends beneath the north and west faces of Adrar Iffran M toe areach Tagdicht Asmit. It is possible to leave bags here, then descend around the south side of Tower 5 to reach the route. Crags This approach permits the simplest descent to Tassila, or further routes on Asmit or Iffran. 55. Event Horizon HVS 5a exposed moves then follow to a belay up left in a small niche. 165m. The steep central buttress gives a superb and 3) 30m (4c) Move left and climb up to slabby ground below atmospheric climb of great character, which is consistent overhangs. Work right to gain a prominent steep flake throughout and generally low in the grade. There are four which provides an airy way through the first overhang (it brilliantly steep and exposed pitches featuring excellent is possible to avoid this via a traverse right under the fin of climbing on good rock. Start by scrambling up clean rock in white rock). At the top of the flake move right to a stance, the bed of the gully. then up steep ground to a good ledge. 1) 40m (4a) Start up the right-hand gully until it is possible 4) 40m (4c) Climb a grassy gully until a step right gains the to step left onto the fin. Follow this to its top, then climb front face. Continue up the left side of the buttress, pulling a steep crack on the right wall of the chimney to a small through several overhangs to a ledge below a wide crack. ledge. 5) 35m (4b) The steep, wide crack provides a brilliant finale, 2) 20m (5a) Step left across the gully and traverse up left finishing up grooves and flakes on the final tower. to an exposed step left around the arête. Difficult and very 00

2013

2035

0 200

Yftan

RED PEAK ADRAR UMLIL, Tower 5 | See area map page 8

Tizi Ait

Adrar Umlil Tower 5

Adrar Umlil Tower 4

Wild Boar Pass

1849 1846 3rd Tower Staghorn Gully 4th Tower 1831 5th Tower

Adrar Umlil

ADRAR UMLIL

Ta s s i

1993

Arrow Rock

Iffran Path East Buzzard Crag

Upper

AKIDA NTINZAR PEAK)

Cave Dwellings

Iffran Path

White Dome

Gully at end of Brussels Cliffs

Adrar Umlil Tower 1

1777

Shepherd’s Crag

Brussels Cliffs

Adrar Asmit

GPS 29.83628, -9.01934

Cascade d’Iffni

Umlil Path

Lower Buzzard Crag

Tangerine The Buttress Crevasse

1700

Sahara Jedi Groove Civilization Paladin Left Ramp Pink Lady Guillotine Direct Central Pillar Event Horizon High Sierra Tower Ridge Flake Quake Great Eastern Orange Rocket Main of Light Nutcracker Bolero Marble Arch Scimitar Ridge Electron Proton Jungle Book Flight of the Phoenix

Central Buttress Multiple Pillars... Eagle’s Beak Aerobat The Lion King Gamma Crazy Mushrooms... White Tower Slot Machine Great Ridge Spacewalk Labyrinth Ridge Assendrar Welcome

Steve Broadbent & Caroline Culwick, March 2011.

176 Labyrinth Ridge | AYLIM

Map Page 8

Map page 8 AM

0:05

 Descent: Continue over the summit, then

head southwest to the descent gully next to Fig Tree Wall. This has a couple of short downclimbs, but abseiling should not be required in dry conditions. At the bottom of the gully, keep right (facing out) and descend a final steep wall on good holds. From here, a small path heads through fig plantations to the Samazar Hairpins, which can be followed back to the car.

AYLIM | Labyrinth Ridge

Knight’s Peak Summit chimney

Bishop’s Tower

5b / A0 4a

The Priest

D Work up leftward

Crux wall Vegetated alcove

5a C 4a

The Grey Pillar 4b The Central Ribs

Chimney left of Grey Pillar B 4b

Hidden pitch up short crack from notch The Watchtower

Easy traverse round left side of tower easy

Short steep move

Great Ridge of Samazar (VS 5a) Central Gully

easy

Very easy climbing along low-angled ridge

A 81

Strategy: This is one of Tafraout’s ‘big’ routes, and an early start is advised. The first section up to the Watchtower is very easy and teams usually solo or simul-climb to save time. Aspect: The ridge is on the north side of the mountain, but thanks to the low-angled terrain it generally has sunshine throughout the morning. Later in the day, the headwall often gives shade.

Bottom of Samazar Hairpins

1400

Tamdkrt

1768

Tagzene Gorge

AREA MAP page 8

rif Za l)

Nizi Ouene Co

T gz ( Ta

1:40

0:05

Fouss Wa

1692

180

The Great Rock of Samazar, or Aylim to give it its correct title, is one of the most magnificent pieces of rock 1692 in the Anti-Atlas. In the depths of the remote Samazar Valley, the GreateRock throws down the ultimate n ‘classic climb’ – a striking ridgeline, mostly easy but with the kindg of z echallenging crux pitches that people talk about in the bar afterwards. It’s accessible (both in terms Tofa its proximity to the road and its mild pper grade), and it’s long. In fact, with 800 metres and U twenty-something pitches of climbing, it’s one of the Tagadirte-nTAJGALTof PEAK longest Tafraout’s classic climbs – a fact that has put this route at the top of many people’s tick-lists Yazza since1916 its first ascent back in 2008. Whether or not you follow the route as described (getting lostTAGADIRTE is part PEAK of the fun here), the mighty Labyrinth Ridge is guaranteed to provide the kind of adventure that draws1957 Sahara climbers to the Anti-Atlas year on year.1678 Jedi Groove ylim onSch. aplace Parking: There is a small parking the bend at the foot of the Samazar Hairpins (two cars only). Civilization W i Tiz Paladin Approach: The start of the route is located just yards from the car, and is obvious from the parking. Left Ramp Pink Lady

81. Labyrinth Ridge VS 5a

Guillotine Direct a variety of options, but feature some bold climbing on Central Pillar suspect rock. Then, after a short walk, the ridge steepens Dwawj Event Horizon 800m. A tremendous route, and one of the biggest again. Take a chimney on the left side of a narrow grey pillar, High Sierra and most sought-after climbs of its grade in the region, Tower Ridge stepping left onto an excellent solid face in a fine position. providing a full complement of mountain challenges that Flake Quake leads to the start of the headwall, at about 480m. Waylim Great Eastern will test Tajgalt even the most competent of parties. This route’s TizimThis Orange Rocket Crags C) The headwall is tackled, trending rightwards initially, status as one of the longest in the Anti-Atlas makes up for Tafter Main of Light to a hidden belay in a vegetated alcove a couple of ag some isolated sections of questionable rock on which care Nutcracker pitches. The left wall out of the alcove is the technical crux of a Bolero is required. The initial narrow ridge involves large amounts d Marble Arch the route, with some good 5a climbing in a superb iposition. rt of easy scrambling on which speed is of the essence, before Scimitar Ridge This gains the unfortunate Bishop’s Tower, which forces a e things take a sinister turn with some fine adventurous P aElectron traverse leftwards. Proton st climbing on the steep headwall. In total there are about 20 Jungle Book u D) Traverse left past vegetation to gain easier-looking pitches and 800m of climbing, providing a memorable and Flight of the Phoenix ground. This eventually leads to an even more unfortunate Central Buttress tiring day out. tower, with apparently no escape (The Priest). The tower Multiple Pillars... A) The route starts easily, gaining and following a narrow Eagle’s Beak is separated from the main face by a gap of about 2m, and crest of immaculate white quartzite for about 4 pitches to Aerobat ingenuity must be used to gain the wide crack in the wall The Lion King a short steep step. This is climbed at about Severe, before behind. This can be free-climbed strenuously at about 5b, Gamma more easy scrambling (now mostly on the left side) leads Crazy Mushrooms... but some pulling on gear makes the move a little more to The Watchtower, with a cairn and stone shelter on its White Tower approachable (A0 & 4c). Slot Machine summit. Avoid The Watchtower on its left side to gain a Great Ridge E) Sustained scrambling and walking over false summits, notch. Escape into Central Gully is possible from most of this Spacewalk with a few short pitches leads to a final tricky chimney just Labyrinth section. Ridge below the main summit. Assendrar Welcome B) A steep pitch from the notch is a sign of increasing Steve & Katja Broadbent, February 2008. difficulties and growing commitment. The Central Ribs offer

ayl iW Tiz

1600

Foussaoun

Fig Tree Wall descent gully

AYLIM | See area map page 8

1700

Gravel pits

1708

81. LABYRINTH RIDGE

1800

Lower

Foussaoun Riverside (Crag)Samazar Hairpins

1604

Sif Rock AYLIM (Great Rock of Samazar) Fig Tree Wall

l Wa

Rig

The Pimple

Bishop’s Tower

e dg

GPS 29.79631, terfa a -9.11982 ht W l

Ri dg e

Ri th

Gr ea t

La by rin

irpi

r Ha

Gintrap Wall

GPSRidge 29.79576, South -9.11919

za ma

l fa er at ll W ftPeak a Knight’s Le W

- LROUTE START a

IGILIZ

ea tP

Sha

PARKING

AYLIM | Labyrinth Ridge 177

Map Page 8

1530

1600

1296

Fever Canyon

d Roa

180 E1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; E2

Will Benfold traversing the overhangs on the remarkable final pitch of Voyager (E2) on the southwest face of Adrar Iffran. (page 201). Photo: Steve Broadbent

E1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; E2 181

Caroline Culwick on the first pitch of The Marrakesh Express (E1) at Tramline Slabs. This three-pitch climb is one of the most popular extremes in the area, enjoying welcome shade from the hot Moroccan sunshine (page 183). Photo: Steve Broadbent

s As

Tamgrst

202 Firesword | DRAGON BUTTRESS Crags

Map Page 8 1000

1257

DETAIL OF FIRST PITCH

5a P1

Superb crack up side wall

110

Bold, thin flake crack to black stain

5a Steep climbing up left-hand fork of crack

Wide!

1300

Difficult, bold climbing – work up right

1200

Difficult moves into steep 1445 crack

R Tizirt

Excellent final Tizirt corner

IGILIZ

37 Brilliant hidden belay

1400

Easy 96

1490 5a

15m

South Ridge

Ha zar

Sam

ak 1666

Sif

DRAGON BUTTRESS 0

150

Groove up right onto front face

not unpleasant. From the summit, move rightwards along the sharp summit ridge, past a steep and very exposed step. At the end of the ridge, follow a vague cairned trail down vegetated slopes to the west of the north face. This trail swings right and passes close to the base of the north face just near the start of the route. From here, reverse the Talmst walk-in to reach the road.

140

1300 is involved, but  Descent: The descent

1562

r za

m Sa

Asner P1 4c

Brilliant flake crack

1344

Nearby Routes

180

Superb crack up side wall

170

00 96

Difficult moves into steep crack

Apollo (S) – p107 Dragon Ridge (S) – p107 Dragolo (HS) – p99 Dragibus (MS) – p99 Dragonstone (HS) – p119 Electron (HVS) – p151 Proton (VS) – p151 Jungle Book (HVS) – p153 Flight of the Phoenix (HVS) – p153 Brisingr (E1) – p187 0

Aspect: The wall faces northwest and will be in the shade for much of the day, coming into 1the sunshine during the middle of 200 the afternoon. This makes Dragon Rock an appealing venue in most conditions.

TAJGA 5a

1300

Strategy: Bags can be left at the base of the route, as the descent returns to this point.

1100

irpi

Pe Nice wide st crack We

Map page 8 PM

ea tP

Work rightwards Eas across wall – AGOUTI superb exposure

Tizi-n-Tizirt

1378

1500

Start in shady wild boar den below rib

1530

1851

1800

Dragon Buttress

West Buttress

Ogogn

0 110

oad

Firesword

Fanghur Buttress

PARKING

ROUTE START

GPS 29.80166, -9.11619

GPS 29.80473, -9.11960

Low path (good path)

DRAGON ROCK

Fanghur Gully

AM Knife edge ridge scramble

Fanghur Buttress

The Flatiron

Follow cairns 1726 1600

Fever Canyon

1400

1296 Small path via Fanghur Gully

a DRAGON BUTTRESS a z| Firesword 203

120

Map Page 8 Aourir

Low path via houses

Descent path hugs base of crag

Gintrap Wallface of Dragon Buttress Crag overview of the north

Sha

ALT PEAK

916

ll rfa e AREA MAP at ll a NW page 8 t W Wa f 1:40 0:15 e DRAGON BUTTRESS | See area map page 8 L Tamdkrt The steep pillar on Dragon Rock’s northwest face isalone l of the finest quartzite features in the area and rf adventure climbing perfection. home to the legendary Firesword – four pitches teof e Lowe a l ht W alFiresword The west-facing sidewall of the pillar, up picks such an unlikely line, is the first part of this Rigwhich W s shady face to catch the afternoon sun, when it glows burning orange in the golden light. It’s a magnificent Foussaoun sight, and for those lucky enough it happens, is one of the most Gravel pits The to be high on the immaculate wall when Riverside memorable moments of a Moroccan climbing trip. Pimple (Crag) 1604 Here, high above long shadows in the dark valley, alone in a vast expanse of perfect sunlit rock, climbers f Rock AYLIM relish the very best that quartzite has to offer. To get here, they’ve battled their way up some of the most (Great Rock of Samazar) divine cracks imaginable – steep and sustained, devious, yet logical at the same time. It’s the kind of line Fig Tree that guides you upwards whilst keeping you guessing. Isolated on the headwall, the cracks dry up, the Marrakesh Express Wall 1708 increases, and for the climber focusing on tiny finger edges, the rest of the world disappears into exposure Pelez Pour Manger a distant blur. A triumphant finish remains, before the route becomes nothing more than a memory – one Foussaoun Brisingr that grows and inspires for years to come. Rock the Kasbah Leaving Las Vegas Parking: Dragon Rock is best approached from the west via Tanalt and the Samazar Hairpins. At the Golden Compass bottom of the hairpins, the road continues beneath the huge Waterfall Walls and descends further to a Tizgut Crack 1768some houses on the Solar Event small stream. After the stream there are two hairpin bends before the road reaches f Cannon Crack right-hand side. Park on the left here, next to an electricity pylon. ariol) Tagzene Z Braveheart u C Great Corner Fou i O enethe Approach: There are two options: The shortest Gorge way is to follow very vague paths hillside Tizacross z Voyager g heading for a notch at the right-hand side of the east face. This is the top of Fanghur ( Ta Gully, which provides Firesword Game of Thrones a short but sometimes very vegetated approach to the north face. 1692 If I Sit Still... A better approach is to follow a good path heading north from the parking towards some small buildings. Bowline 1692 the back to the northwest Eros e around This path descends below the northeastern tip of the crag and leads n e is definitely preferable for the return to the face. It is longer than Fanghur Gully, but easier underfoot and z g car at the end of the day. Ta

-L

0 17

Gr ea

La by r

96. FIRESWORD

96. Firesword E2 5b

Uppe

170m. The golden face on the right side of the pillar gives

one of the best routes in the Anti-Atlas – an audacious climb with some bold positions. It is a notch harder than Brisingr, and starts at the same1678 point. 1) 60m (5b) Climb up to alismall tree in order to gain the m Sch. ay slab on the right. Make difficult moves up to cracks on the W i Tizand follow these to ledges, belaying a sidewall of Brisingr, little higher up by a shallow groove right of a block. 2) 40m (5a) Go up the groove, then move right into a wide crack. Trend rightwards above and climb cracks to a hidden ledge andDwawj tree belay.

3) 40m (5b) Climb steeply up the big crack, taking the left-hand fork.Tagadirte-nAt the top of the crack, step right and climb boldly up, trendingYazza right to a large ledge in theTAGADIRTE corner. A PEAK variation to this pitch traverses boldly left to climb the righthand side of the arête, before a rising traverse up rightwards 1957 regains the normal route. 4) 30m (5b) Climb a steep flake-crack and continue up a black stain to a short traverse rightwards into the corner chimney. Follow this with interest to the top. Emma Alsford & Paul Donnithorne, January 2012.

212 INDEX

Lina Arthur on pitch 19 of the 35-pitch Millennium Ridge (HVD) on Upper Prophet Peak. At 1500m in length, this is not only Tafraoutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest climb but also the ultimate low-grade mountain challenge (page 79). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Orientation Map Page 4

INDEX 213

Orientation Map Page 4

INDEX OF ROUTES Advent Ridge VD Aerobat HVS 5a Alabama Buttress HS Amzkhssan Rib VD Angel’s Crest Diff Apollo HS Asendrar Welcome HVS 4c Auld Lang Syne HS Black Peter HVD Bolero F5c Bowline E2 5b Braveheart E1 5a Brisingr E1 5b Cannon Crack E1 5b Cefn Garw HVD Central Buttress VS 4c Central Pillar HVS 5a Central Slabs VD Civilization HVS 4c Crazy Mushrooms Ridge HVS 5b Curved Ridge HVD Donkey Serenades HVD Dragibus MS Dragolo HS Dragon Ridge Sev Dragonstone HS Eagle’s Beak HVS 4c East Buttress Sev Electron HVS 5b Eros E2 5b Escher’s Rib Diff Evening Wall VD Event Horizon HVS 5a Firesword E2 5b Flake Quake HVS 5a Flight of the Phoenix HVS 4c Freeway F4 Game of Thrones E2 5a Gamma HVS 5a Golden Compass E1 5b Great Corner E1 5b Great Eastern VS 5a Great Ridge VS 5a Great Slab Diff Guillotine Direct VS 4c High Sierra VS 5a Honeycomb Buttress Sev If I Sit Still Too Long... E2 5c Igiliz-Agouti Traverse MS

Hairpin Slabs Ksar Rock Akida Amzkhssan Wall Jebel el Kest Dragon Rock The Thumb Adrar Umlil Ighir Crags Eflodne Crag ND Fig Tree Wall Dragon Rock Ksar Rock Adrar Umlil Aylim Adrar Iffran Adrar Asmit Ksar Rock Babouche Lower Eagle Crag Lower Eagle Crag Dragon Rock Dragon Rock Dragon Rock Dragon Rock Anergui Upper Ksar Rock Dragon Rock Greek Buttress Hairpin Slabs Adrar Umlil Adrar Umlil Dragon Rock Flake Quake Dome Dragon Rock Tazka’s 2nd Dome Dragon Rock Greek Buttress Adrar Umlil Crag ND Ksar Rock Asgaour Crag N Adrar Iffran High Sierra Dome Agouti Ksar Rock Agouti

p55 p161 p101 p59 p77 p107 p179 p121 p69 p147 p209 p197 p187 p195 p63 p155 p133 p67 p127 p167 p73 p75 p99 p99 p107 p119 p159 p103 p151 p211 p55 p63 p135 p203 p141 p153 p61 p205 p165 p191 p199 p143 p173 p51 p133 p137 p83 p207 p87

Ksar Rock in Afantinzar is home to some of the region’s best short multi-pitch crag routes. Will Benfold on the steep crux of the popular Aerobat (HVS) on the south face (page 161). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

214 INDEX

The White Tower above Tifghalt gives two of Tafraoutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best multi-pitch crag routes. Teams climbing side by side on White Tower Original (HVS) (left) and White Tower Direct (HVS) (right) (pages 169 and 171). Photo: Steve Broadbent

Orientation Map Page 4

INDEX 215

Orientation Map Page 4

Infinity ridge Diff Tagdicht Jedi Groove HVS 4c Ksar Rock Dragon Rock Jungle Book HVS 5b Aylim Labyrinth Ridge VS 5a Ksar Rock Lady X HS Aguerd Cioch Lavender VD Adrar Umlil Leaving Las Vegas E1 5b Crag K Left Ramp VS 4c Adrar Umlil Lion King HVS 5b Ighir Crags Main of Light HVS 5a Fig Tree Wall Manzakuneen VD Eflodne Marble Arch F6a+ Tramline Slabs Marrakesh Express E1 5a Upper Prophet Peak Millennium Ridge HVD Akida Mojo Sev Multiple Pillars of Pleasure HVS 5a Taskra Ksar Rock Noah’s Ark HS Adrar Umlil Northwest Face Sev Eflodne Nutcracker F5c Eflodne NW Buttress F4 Ighir Crags Orange Rocket VS 5a Ksar Rock Paladin VS 4b Taskra East Pillars Pan’s Labyrinth Direct HS Ksar Rock Pelez E1 5b Lower Eagle Crag Pink Lady VS 4c Pinnacle Ridge Sev Prophet Peak Ksar Rock Pour Manger HVS 5b Dragon Rock Proton VS 5a Adrar Umlil Rock the Kasbah E1 5b Ksar Rock Sahara MVS Safinah Scimitar Ridge VS 5a Hairpin Slabs Scrunchie Sev Aylim Serengeti Sev Hairpin Slabs Silverline / Sideburn HS Hairpin Slabs Snakehike HS Ksar Rock Solar Event E2 5c So Much for Sundowners Sev Adrar Umlil Adrar Umlil South Ridge Sev Tifghalt Spacewalk HVS 4c Robin Hood Rocks Sun Ribbon Arête HS Adrar Umlil Sunset Boulevard Sev Aylim Thunder Rib Sev Fig Tree Wall Tifina VD Tizgut Gorge Tizgut Crack E1 5b Afantztgult Tower Ridge Direct MVS 4b Amzkhssan Wall Trick or Treat VD Adrar Iffran Voyager E2 5b Adrar Asmit West Side Story Sev Tifghalt White Tower Direct HVS 5a Tifghalt White Tower Original HVS 5a Adrar Asmit Wild Country VD

p71 p125 p153 p177 p105 p53 p191 p129 p163 p145 p57 p147 p183 p79 p101 p157 p105 p89 p147 p65 p145 p127 p115 p185 p131 p117 p185 p151 p189 p125 p149 p97 p95 p109 p113 p195 p93 p85 p175 p111 p89 p95 p57 p193 p139 p59 p201 p91 p171 p169 p67

High above Afantinzar on the shady walls of Lower Eagle Crag, Pink Lady (VS) is Tafraout’s most popular multi-pitch climb. This photo shows a climber on the top of the flake, approaching the crux on pitch 6 (page 131). Photo: Ben Lister

Area Maps Other Guides Climate Getting There Useful Info Places to Stay Wildlife The Climbing Things to Do How to Use Tick List

216 OTHER GUIDEBOOKS

Orientation Map Page 4

Oxford Alpine Club Guides

www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk Rjukan | Selected Ice Climbs A modern photo topo guide to 200 of the best roadside ice climbs in Norway's famous Rjukan valley, including all of the popular climbing areas and full background information. Published 2017 ISBN: 978-0-9935486-4-2 Todra | Rock Climbing in the Todra Gorge Lying on the southern fringe of the High Atlas is one of Morocco's premier climbing destinations – the magnificent Todra Gorge. Here, bathed in year-round sunshine, you will find a climbing experience like few others: an enticing blend of sport, adventure, and exotic culture... 2nd edition published 2017 ISBN: 978-0-9935486-3-5 Climb Tafraout | Moroccan Anti-Atlas Morocco's Anti-Atlas mountains are a paradise of adventurous traditional climbing, where winter sun, stunning scenery and an enchanting culture combine to create one of the world's most exciting climbing destinations. This new guide includes 1500 of the very best routes across the range. Published 2017 ISBN: 978-0-9935486-2-8 Climb Tafraout | Tafraout Granite The definitive guide to Tafraout’s granite cragging, detailing almost 250 routes from single-pitch sport climbs to multi-pitch trad routes on the incredible granite domes around Tafraout and Aguerd Oudad. Published 2018 ISBN: 978-0-9935486-5-9 Setesdal | Ice Climbing in Norway’s Setesdal and Åseral Regions Home to more than 150 superb icefalls, ranging from roadside top-ropes to full-on multipitch adventures, the Setesdal region of southern Norway offers a serious alternative to the busier Rjukan Valley. This pocket guide describes all the main routes and full background information. Published 2012 ISBN: 978-0-9567288-1-4 Tafraout Pocket Guides | 3 Volumes Three handy pocket-sized guidebooks to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas mountains, describing more than 1000 of the best rock climbs in the region. Published 2014 ISBN: 978-0-9567288-5-2