Climb Rjukan - Selected Ice Climbs

Oxford Alpine Club

RJUKAN Selected

Ice Climbs 1ST EDITION | by Steve Broadbent

RJUKAN Selected Ice Climbs

1ST EDITION | 2017

An Oxford Alpine Club Guide

by Steve Broadbent

4

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

INTRODUCTION

Overview Map Page 6

Acknowledgements Production of this guidebook would not have been possible without the assistance of many people. Firstly, I must thank Dave and Lina Arthur for providing the initial inspiration, and Leanne Common and Aileen Robertson for putting up with frustrating research, lots of belaying, and a disproportionately large number of walk-ins, sometimes in waist-deep snow (or worse). Material was also provided by Sven Letourneau, Paul Hennelly, Tony Moody, Peri Stracchino, Tim Bateman, Steve Boote, Jo Goodson, Keith Leonard, Robert Maloney and Alex Ekins, and I thank them all for their valuable contributions.

Of course we also owe huge gratitude to all of the pioneer Rjukan climbers and previous guidebook writers who not only opened up this climbing paradise to the world, but did such a great job in documenting their endeavours. Specifically, Jon Haukåssveen and Tom Bordevik first opened our eyes to Rjukan with their excellent guide, without which the valley would have remained an obscure backwater.

And finally, thanks to Katja and Lina for their continued work as proof-readers and general encouragement throughout yet another timeconsuming project.

Steve Broadbent June 2017

Contents | INTRODUCTION

Overview Map Page 6

CONTENTS Area Overview Map Crag Selector Introduction Guidebook Philosophy When to Visit Getting to Rjukan Car Hire Driving Conditions Public Transport Local Information Accommodation Provisions Other Services Climbing Gear Tourist Attractions Skiing Climbing Information Other Places to Climb Objective Dangers Equipment Grades How to use this Guidebook Recommended Areas The climbing areas: Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Area Svadde Area Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan A Brief History of Rjukan Route Index

5

Contents

6 7 9 9 10 12 13 13 13 14 14 14 15 15 15 17 18 18 20 23 24 25 26 28 34 38 44 50 54 58 62 70 78 86 98 104 108

Looking down on the Rjukan Valley from the Gaustablikk ski centre.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

6

INTRODUCTION | Area Overview

Overview Map Page 6

Contents Area Map Overview

Orientation map on page 28

Gausetdalen

Intro The Climbing How to Use

Orientation map on page 34

Gøystdal

Suggested Areas

Austbygde Atra Gausetdalen

364 Orientation map on page 38

Kong Vinter

Mæl & Jailhouse

Mæl & Jailhouse

Crag map on page 45

Bølgen

Bølgen

Miland

37

Crag map on page 58

Svadde

Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre

Mæl

Crag map on page 70

Lower Gorge

37

Crag map on page 86

Upper Gorge

Gaustablikk

Rjukan

Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

Crag map on page 50

Ozzimosis 37

Crag map on page 78

Vemork Bridge Crag map on page 98

Krokan

Crag map on page 62

Crag map on page 54

Gausta

Rjukan Centre

N

History Index

Rjukan Valley Overview 0

2km

4km

6km

8km

Crag Selector | INTRODUCTION

Overview Map Page 6

CRAG SELECTOR

7

Contents

Whether you're looking for long full-day adventures or straightforward ice cragging, Rjukan has plenty to offer throughout the grades.

Amongst the various sectors of the main gorge you'll find some of Norway's most famous ice routes, from the intimidating test-piece climbs in the majestic Upper Gorge, to the fantastically accessible icefalls at Vemork Bridge, and the pleasant cragging in the Lower Gorge.

Further downstream, and in stark contrast to the confines of the gorge, the steep valley walls above Rjukan Centre, Svadde and Bølgen offer long, open multi-pitch climbs up to 17 pitches in length, some of which are floodlit at night.

Further afield, the remote and committing amphitheatres of Kong Vinter in Gøystdal and Mæl provide an escape from the crowds in an atmospheric setting, whilst the world-class ice crags of Krokan and Ozzimosis are venues not to miss.

The table below summarises what's available in each area, and will hopefully assist first-time visitors in choosing a venue. There's also a list of recommendations on page 26 to help choose a crag based on various other criteria.

Conditions and type of routes

Page

Area Name

28

Gausetdalen

SHADE

CRAGGING

34

Gøystdal

SHADE

CRAGGING

38

Mæl & Jailhouse

SHADE

CRAGGING

44

Bølgen

SHADE

CRAGGING

50

Ozzimosis

SHADE

CRAGGING

54

Gausta

SHADE

CRAGGING

58

Svadde

SHADE

CRAGGING

62

Rjukan Centre

SHADE

CRAGGING

70

Lower Gorge

SHADE

CRAGGING

78

Vemork Bridge

SHADE

CRAGGING

86

Upper Gorge

SHADE

CRAGGING

98

Krokan

SHADE

CRAGGING

Walk-in

MULTI PITCH

0

Away from the crowds

Gausetdalen

TOP ROPE

30 - 45 mins

0

12

3

0

Atmospheric climbing on some classic mid-grade icefalls

Gøystdal

TOP ROPE

45 mins

0

5

2

0

Adventurous routes

Mæl & Jailhouse

TOP ROPE

15 - 40 mins

2

6

3

1

Long multi-pitch routes and hard mixed testpieces

Bølgen

TOP ROPE

5 - 10 mins

4

11

1

2

Roadside ice cragging

Ozzimosis

TOP ROPE

50 - 75 mins

1

11

2

1

Remote, early season ice

Gausta

TOP ROPE

30 - 45 mins

2

7

1

0

Some classic and very long routes

Svadde

TOP ROPE

20 - 60 mins

2

14

6

1

Sunshine, floodlights, and great views

Rjukan Centre

TOP ROPE

10 - 50 mins

3

17

2

1

Pleasant, sheltered cragging

Lower Gorge

TOP ROPE

10 - 15 mins

2

10

1

1

Easy access, and two of the valley's classic climbs

Vemork Bridge

TOP ROPE

10 - 30 mins

1

10

8

6

Classic, world-class ice climbs in an intimidating setting

Upper Gorge

TOP ROPE

10 - 15 mins

1

9

12

21

One of the world's best ice crags

Krokan

MULTI PITCH MULTI PITCH MULTI PITCH MULTI PITCH MULTI PITCH MULTI PITCH

Summary

2

MULTI PITCH

Suggested Areas

14

MULTI PITCH

How to Use

1

MULTI PITCH

The Climbing

10 - 90 mins

MULTI PITCH

Intro

TOP ROPE

MULTI PITCH

WI1-2 WI3-4 WI5-6 WI7/M

Area Map Overview

History Index

8

Contents

INTRODUCTION

Overview Map Page 6

The industrial town of Rjukan: one of Europe's best ice climbing destinations.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

INTRODUCTION

Overview Map Page 6

INTRODUCTION

GUIDEBOOK PHILOSOPHY

As an ice climbing destination, Rjukan needs little introduction; since the late nineties it has grown as one of the premiere destinations in Europe – if not the world – providing some of the most reliable and easily accessible ice to be found anywhere.

Here you will find a tremendous variety of climbing, ranging from huge multi-pitch icefalls running the full height of the valley walls, to the world-class test-piece routes of the Upper Gorge, and of course the roadside ice-cragging venues of Ozzimosis and Krokan. These are familiar names to most ice climbers, and alongside globally famous routes such as Lipton and Juvsøyla, they place Rjukan well and truly on the ice climbing map.

Great ice climbing can, of course, be found throughout the higher latitudes, but few places offer such friendly accessibility as Rjukan, where a huge concentration of excellent climbs can be found within thirty minutes or so from the road.

Add to this a welcoming local population, cheap flights from most of Europe, and excellent skiing for rest days, and you've got a winter destination not to be missed.

The Norwegian climbing scene is famously guarded when it comes to publicising climbing achievements and first ascents – a philosophy that goes a long way towards making Norwegian climbing the superb adventure that it is, in which almost every climb feels like a first ascent. Rjukan has been one of the very few valleys to even begin to depart from this tradition, and the publication of the RockFax Heavy Water guidebook in 2005 threw this small industrial valley into the limelight in a way never before seen in Norwegian climbing.

That guidebook has been out of print for a number of years now, and although updated information has been available online, the need for a basic guidebook to this superb climbing has become increasingly clear, as Rjukan remains a destination with worldwide appeal.

The aim of this latest edition, therefore, is to provide overseas visitors with enough information and inspiration to experience the best of Rjukan ice climbing. It should be noted that this is a selective guidebook aimed at visiting climbers, and does not seek to be an authoritative document.

Indeed, many icefalls have been climbed in the surrounding area but are not included in this book – such routes have seen little traffic and will continue to provide wild, remote adventures for local climbers and Rjukan enthusiasts, with every ascent providing the 'first-ascent' experience for which Norwegian climbing is so renowned.

9

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta

Approach to Krokan – Norway's premiere ice 'crag'.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

10

Contents Area Map Overview

INTRODUCTION | When to Visit

Overview Map Page 6

Rjukan town square, illuminated by light from the sun-mirrors in February. The statue of Sam Eyde, who first attempted to bring winter sun to Rjukan, stands in the background.

Today, this small patch of reflected light is the only sunlight in the town centre between mid September and early March.

Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse

Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

-10˚C

April

Vemork Bridge

March

Lower Gorge

0˚C

February

Rjukan Centre

January

Svadde

Typical Rjukan temperatures throughout the season:

December

Gausta

Rjukan's relatively long winter climbing season is one of its great assets, and it is usually possible to climb here from mid December to late March, with ascents sometimes being recorded as early as October, and well into April.

The reliable conditions here owe much to the geography of the valley – this is one of few valleys in Norway that run in an east-west direction, meaning that the north-facing slopes are without sun for the entire winter. Indeed the deep, steep-sided nature of the valley ensures that even the town goes without direct sunlight from mid September to early March, when the locals celebrate the annual return of sunshine.

In general, mid January through to the end of February is prime Rjukan climbing season, offering reliably cold conditions and lengthening days.

By mid march, the sunlit icefalls on the north side of the valley tend to melt away, although plenty of routes generally stay in condition on the south side of the valley, where climbers can take advantage of the long days.

November

Ozzimosis

WHEN TO VISIT

October

Bølgen

Overview Map Page 6

Leanne Common descending from Gaustaspøkelse (WI4) at Krokan. This popular ice crag is one of Europe's most popular ice climbing venues, with a short approach and convenient abseil descents. Page 101.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

When to Visit | INTRODUCTION

11

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

20

INTRODUCTION | Objective Dangers

Overview Map Page 6

What can possibly go wrong?

Contents

Photo: Paul Hennelly

Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

OBJECTIVE DANGERS It goes without saying that ice climbing and winter mountaineering are dangerous activities, and ascents described in this book should only be undertaken by suitably experienced climbers.

For visitors with limited water-ice experience, numerous local climbing guides are available.

Despite the often 'crag-like' atmosphere of Rjukan climbing, serious accidents and fatalities occur on an almost annual basis. The following list represents a few of the main dangers presented to climbers in the valley:

! Ice Conditions Conditions on routes described in this guidebook can vary enormously from year to year, and as such grades should be taken as guidelines only.

Newly formed ice is often poorly bound, with numerous air pockets within it. A repeated cycle of minor temperature variations will remove these air pockets, causing the ice to become more solid and easier to protect towards the end of the season.

During periods of extreme cold, however, icicles tend to contract, and tension in the outer layers

caused by rapid cooling can create dangerously brittle ice – protection is difficult to place, and freehanging formations may collapse.

Similarly, the effects of sunshine and high temperatures have obvious effects on the ice.

Whilst a mild freeze-thaw cycle adds to the stability, sustained warm temperatures can cause tension within the outer layers, followed by thaw and structural weakening.

Climbers wishing to climb free-hanging formations are therefore advised to study conditions carefully, as many of the classic icicles described in this guide usually collapse at least once or twice each season.

! Avalanches Once again, the friendly nature of valley iceclimbing in Rjukan can mask a serious avalanche threat, and climbers are advised to approach climbs with caution. Norway's northerly location, and extensive and mountainous Atlantic coast means that annual snowfall is much greater than that in the European Alps, with up to 20 metres of snowfall in a typical winter season.

Overview Map Page 6

Objective Dangers | INTRODUCTION

Extended periods of cold weather often see huge build-ups of powder, without the stabilising influence of the sun. Rapid temperature changes are possible at any time of year, and warm humid air from the Atlantic replacing the cold continental air mass can result in sudden instability in existing snowpack. Strong winds, typical on higher slopes throughout the winter, also create unstable windslab that adds to the avalanche risk.

21

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing

! Frozen Rivers Several of the climbs described in this guidebook are accessed across frozen rivers, and care should be taken to assess the strength of the ice underfoot – just because previous footprints lead out onto the ice doesn't mean that it is still load bearing. Remember that water levels in the river are partially controlled by the hydro scheme, and a sudden drop in the water level underneath the ice will lead to a significant risk of falling through the unsupported sheet of ice.

How to Use Suggested Areas

! Hydro Plant Releases The Måna river, which runs through the gorge, is part of an extensive hydro scheme which includes the Vemork and Såheim power plants. Water is diverted from various points in the upper valley for power generation, and can be released from power plant outflows with little or no warning.

Rjukanfossen is released to full flow each year, and although this usually occurs in the summertime, the hydro company could do this at any time.

When this happens, the main fall and large parts of the Upper Gorge are flooded. If you receive warning of an imminent release then you should abseil to the ground (if within reach with a single abseil) or top out as quickly as possible. Leave all nonessential equipment behind and vacate the gorge floor.

Trollfossen is one of the main outflows from the new (underground) Vemork power plant and can release huge quantities of water with no warning.

These releases will be fatal for anyone climbing the waterfall at the time, and for this reason this waterfall should not be attempted. It is shown on the map on page 78, but not described in the text of this guide.

Vemorkbrufoss Vest sees frequent small releases of water throughout the winter, and evidence of these can often be seen in the form of discoloured ice or washed-away snow. Although these releases are usually short-lived, caution is advised.

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History

Unknown climbers on the magnificent pillar of Juvsøyla (WI6) in the Upper Gorge. Page 92.

Photo: Tony Moody

Index

24

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

INTRODUCTION | Grades

GRADES It should be emphasised that the difficulty of ice climbs can and does vary considerably from week to week and season to season. Icefalls form differently every year, meaning that in some years some routes will simply be steeper, thinner, or less featured than in other years, and may feel more difficult than the grade suggests.

Atmospheric conditions will also have considerable impact on the difficulty of a climb, and following periods of extreme cold weather, even easy climbs may feature dangerous, brittle ice in which protection is difficult to arrange. In these conditions they can quickly turn into very serious undertakings.

A third factor to affect the difficulty of ice routes is the number of recent ascents: popular routes at Krokan, for example, with positive placements

Overview Map Page 6

chipped all the way up them, are likely to feel considerably easier than an un-climbed pillar of the same grade.

It is, therefore, important to treat any grades suggested in this guidebook as nothing more than loose guidelines – bear in mind that routes are frequently up to one full grade harder or easier, and be prepared to use your experience and judgement to assess the likely difficulty of a route prior to setting out.

Routes are graded according to the Norwegian Water Ice (WI) or Mixed (M) grading systems, which make use of a single grade to describe the overall difficulty of a route. It is, therefore, possible for a route to have a short section of much steeper ice than the grade would imply. The grading table below attempts to give some description as to what is expected at each grade.

WI1

45° or lower angled snow slopes.

Routes of this grade are usually 45° slabs interspersed with short steep steps through overlaps, or long low-angle waterfalls. Conditions can vary considerably, particularly during periods of thaw (when they can get quite thin) or under snow cover (when they can be quite awkward).

3

Sustained ice climbing on faces between 60° and 75° or routes with short vertical steps less than three metres in height.

4

Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge

Krokan

Big route climbing or sustained ice climbing steeper than 75°, often with long sections in between possible rests.

2

5

Long, sustained pitches just off vertical, or stepped pitches with vertical sections exceeding five metres in length.

Long, sustained pitches with vertical sections often exceeding seven metres in length. Multipitch routes will require high levels of fitness and stamina.

Big-time vertical ice climbing, requiring excellent technique and the ability to place ice screws whilst hanging from one tool.

Routes of this grade were cutting edge relatively recently, and will often contain technically difficult climbing that is difficult to protect. They require exceptionally high levels of strength, skill, and experience.

Overhanging, poorly adhered columns on which good protection is almost impossible.

Upper Gorge

Mixed

Routes with more sustained steep sections. The ability to place ice screws on steep ground is essential at this grade.

WI6

Ozzimosis

WI7

Bølgen

WI5+ WI5 WI4+ WI4 WI3+ WI3

Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse

Scottish

WI2

Norwegian Water Ice grades Gausetdalen

6 M5 7 M6 8 M7 9

History Index

M8

Overview Map Page 6

How to use this Guidebook | INTRODUCTION

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK This guidebook describes the best and most popular climbing around the north end of Lake Tinnsjø and along the Rjukan valley, broken down into 12 geographic areas or chapters. These chapters are listed on convenient 'thumb tabs' down the side of each page, making it easy to quickly flick to an area of interest.

Crag Maps At the start of each chapter is a crag map, which shows the location of each route topo in that chapter, along with parking spots and approach routes.

For areas that contain more than one crag, or have different 'sub-areas', an orientation map is provided, showing the location of each sub-area crag map. In these cases, the crag map will show a page reference back to the orientation map.

Topos Routes are generally described left to right, working upstream. For the occasional route located on the opposite bank of the river, topos are annotated "North Side", and the upstream convention may lead to occasional incidences of right-to left numbering. Topos are labelled with the following approach and aspect symbols: SHADE

Map title, with page reference to the area overview map at the front of this book

Recommended parking spot.

Intro

P

The Climbing Crag sector not described in this chapter.

Crag sector or topo location.

Private parking (skidoo centre)

Left End p99 Approach route.

Gausetdalen

Kjøkkentrappa p100

Gøystdal A

Abseil approach.

Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen

Crag Map on page 86

Sunshine in the morning.

Approximate approach time in minutes.

This route may require rock protection.

Ozzimosis

SHADE

15m

e

Sunshine in the afternoon.

UPPER GORGE | Lettvann

Sid

BOLTS

Suggested Areas

This area sees little sunshine.

Route Descriptions Precise route and pitch lengths are not given, as these can vary depending on ice formation each year. Instead, an approximate number of pitches is indicated for routes longer than a single pitch.

For routes requiring rock protection, the following additional symbols are used: GEAR

How to Use

P

Fission Bowl p100

Plenty of sunshine.

5m

Area Map Overview

th

PM

Contents

KROKAN

r No

AM

Area Map on page 6

25

Gausta Indicates that this route is on the 'opposite' side of the gorge.

Aspect and approach symbols.

Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge

Suggested belay.

Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge

3

Krokan

This route has protection bolts.

A standard star rating is used to give an idea of the quality of each route in an average season, though this will of course depend on the formation each year.

History Index

36

GØYSTDAL | The Kong Vinter Gorge

Map Page 34

Contents

Orientation Map on page34

N

Area Map Overview

bridge

Bekkenløsningen WI3

0

KONG VINTER 250m

500m

750m

1km

Intro The Climbing How to Use

Kong Neptune WI4

Cut left at building

King Kong WI5

A

Suggested Areas

Kong Vinter WI4

P Lifoss WI4

Kong Bore WI4

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

Kong Vinter With a wild and remote feel to it, the Kong Vinter gorge is a highly recommended destination, with some long and spectacular pitches.

Approach: Park at the end of the Gøystdal road and continue along the track on foot, crossing a small bridge over the gorge just after the track bends left. Keep going to a small building on the right, where it is possible to cut down through the trees to the top of the gorge's north wall (about 30 minutes). To reach the base of the routes it is then necessary to abseil into the gorge – either via a 60m abseil next to a huge boulder at the top of Kong Vinter, or a two-pitch abseil from the top of Kong Neptun.

The first couple of climbs are located in the canyon on the way up to the main gorge. Approach through the woods before reaching a small footbridge.

1. Bekkenløsningen WI3

1 pitch. Slabby ice up the left-hand side of the waterfall, to the left of central overhanging rock.

2. Ischialgi WI4

History Index

1 pitch. The steep curtain of ice to the right of the central overhang.

The remaining routes are located in the main gorge.

3. Unnamed M4

GEAR

2 pitches. This is the narrow icefall immediately left of Kong Bore, finishing up a narrow chimney, where rock protection may be useful.

4. Kong Bore WI4

2 pitches. The impressive icewall on the far side of the gorge offers a steep pitch of sustained climbing. The second pitch is usually easier.

Jan StenstrØm & Gunnar Johansen, 1994.

5. Kong Left WI4

2 pitches. Two short ice pillars to the left of the second pitch of Lifoss, gained via the first pitch of that route.

6. Lifoss WI4

2 pitches. The main icefall at the back of the gorge is a superb climb, and somewhat less sustained than many routes hereabouts.

7. Kong Vinter WI4+

1-2 pitches. This is the wide wall of ice to the right of the central Lifoss waterfall. Many options exist, generally getting more difficult towards the right-hand side, which may form a well-defined, steep pillar. In some years the line combines with the left-hand variant of King Kong.

Jon Haukåssveen & Halvard Arntzen, 1994.

8. King Kong WI5+

1-2 pitches. To the right of Kong Vinter is an impressive hanging ice-pillar that gives one of the area's most soughtafter routes. In some years the pillar forms on the left side of

The Kong Vinter Gorge | GØYSTDAL

Map Page 34

Contents

Crag Map on page36 SHADE

30m

37

KONG VINTER | Left

Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing

A

5

5

How to Use Suggested Areas 3

4

8b 6 7

8

the steep rock, close to Kong Vinter; in other years it forms to the right, next to Dronninga – either way it provides a demanding and sustained climb of the highest quality.

the centre of the gorge's north wall, sometimes featuring some quite thin ice on the top section.

Arild Arnesen & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005.

11. Prinsesse Snøfnugg WI3+

9. Dronninga WI4

2 pitches. Climb slabby ice to a belay on the left, then head rightwards up a series of pillars to the top.

Gausetdalen

Arild Arnesen & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005.

GEAR

1 pitch. Start from the mid-height abseil point (tree) and move left to follow icy steps into the finishing gully. This often involves some mixed climbing.

Arild Arnesen & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005.

Steinar Laumann & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005.

10. Silikon WI4

12. Kong Neptun WI4

1-2 pitches. This route follows a vague groove system up

2 pitches. The gorge's final offering is another very fine climb up the right-hand side of the north wall. Start up slabby ground for one pitch, then take either of the steep ice-pillars above to finish.

Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde

Crag Map on page36 SHADE

Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen

JØrn Wikerholmen & Eirik Sjo, 2005.

A

Gøystdal

30m

KONG VINTER | Right

Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge

8b A

Upper Gorge Krokan 11

History

A

Index 7

8

9

10

12

64

RJUKAN CENTRE | Tjønnstadberg

Map Page 62

rth No

Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Tjønnstadberg

7. For Alle Menn WI5

This superbly situated crag sits on the north side of the valley, directly above the centre of the Rjukan. On sunny days it catches all the sunshine there is going, so the ice can suffer during warmer periods. During the long winter evenings, however, the crag is lit up by spotlights from the town and it is possible to climb here late into the evening.

Approach: Park at the west end of Skruigata and walk up a small track (Haddelandsveien) in a north-easterly direction. A small trail continues across the hillside, then cuts back left beneath the routes.

2-3 pitches. Good climbing, starting up a steep ice wall to gain the pillar. Exit left or right, depending on how the ice has formed.

e

Area Map Overview

Sid

Contents

6. Solfesten WI5/A2+/M7

Gausetdalen Gøystdal

GEAR

4 pitches. This challenging route takes thin ice pillars for two pitches to a belay underneath roofs at the left side of the crag. The roof was originally aided at A2+, but has been climbed as a mixed line (possibly a little further right) at WI6/M7. Finish up and left, then descend from trees.

Jon Haukåsveen & Jan Stenstrøm, 1995 (original finish).

Martin Olslund & Thilo Schrøter, 2011 (free).

Mæl & Jailhouse

Jon Haukåsveen & Halvard Arntzen, 1993.

8. Klappfoss WI4

Mikke Sjøkvist & Anders Nilson, 1993.

9. Lysløypa WI4

3 pitches. The central fall is climbed direct for three pitches, and gives some interesting climbing in its upper section. Walk right to an abseil descent.

Jon Haukåsveen & Øyvind Moss, 1999.

10. Tjønnstadbergfossen WI4

3-4 pitches. An excellent classic climb that sees many ascents (both day and night!). The route, which is usually fairly low in the grade, follows the main waterfall in three pitches to a belay beneath a hanging curtain of ice. Finish either left (if formed) or right (during thin conditions) to an abseil descent through the trees.

Keith Robson, Morten Thorkildsen & Tom Saxlund, 1981.

Crag Map on page 62

Bølgen

20m

RJUKAN | Tjønnstadberg

Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan 6

History Index

GEAR

3 pitches. The wall to the right often has some quite thin ice and may give mixed climbing in the middle section.

If well formed, it gives a broad wall of ice leading to the right-hand exit of For Alle Menn.

7 8 9

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Map Page 62

Sykehusfossen | RJUKAN CENTRE

65 rth No Sid

11. Sykehusfossen WI4

3 pitches. A good, varied route that often gives some quite tough climbing and may require rock protection in thin conditions. When fully formed the middle pitch gives an excellent steep pillar. Descend either by abseil, or by walking rightwards to the gully as shown.

e

Sykehusfossen This attractive waterfall is a prominent feature on the hillside above the hospital, and can be clearly seen when driving into Rjukan from the east. The approach is strenuous, but worth it for some excellent climbing.

Approach: Park at the west end of Skruigata and walk up a small track (Haddelandsveien) in a north-easterly direction. Continue across the hillside to gain the stream beneath the route.

Allow at least 30 minutes, and often more in deep snow conditions.

GEAR

Jon Haukåssveen & Robert Saunes, 1992.

Crag Map on page 62

30m

RJUKAN | Sykehusfossen

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen 11

Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

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Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

UPPER GORGE | Juvsøyla Basin

Map Page 86

Juvsøyla & Trappfoss

14. Juvsøyla WI6

Just beyond the narrow section of the gorge, the ravine swings round a corner into the Juvsøyla basin. As the rivers bends right, a major gully system leaves the gorge straight ahead, leading up to a selection of Rjukan's most famous iceclimbs.

Approach: If there is not much snow these routes are best approached from the Rjukanfossen carpark via the abseil gully (see map on page 86). When you top out, walk rightwards back to the Rjukanfossen path.

If there is lots of snow a better option might be to approach up the gorge from Vemork, then abseil back down the route and reverse the walk-in, as the traverse to the road can be very difficult.

~5 pitches. The magnificent hanging pillar is one of the most impressive formations in the valley, giving a highly sought-after, world-class ice climb. Climb a short ice wall to gain the large snowy gully, and follow this to one of two options. Either: A) follow thin, slabby ice up left to the bottom of the pillar.

This route can be difficult to protect in lean years; or B) continue to the top of the snow gully, then make a mixed traverse left to the foot of the pillar.

The pillar itself gives one or two pitches of very steep climbing in a commanding position.

Crag Map on page 86 Gausetdalen

SHADE

25m

15. Two Assholes and a Nice Guy WI6 / M5

16. Trappfoss WI4

4 pitches. Yet another classic climb, this time taking the broad icefall to the right of the snowy gully. Start in the gully as for Juvsøyla, belaying where a ramp formation heads up right. Follow this to gain the icefall, which gives a further two pitches of excellent ice.

Mæl & Jailhouse

Jon Haukåssveen & Jessie Nazareno, 1992. Photo page 96 & 108.

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15

Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

GEAR

4 pitches. A very serious, thin ice and mixed climb up the wall right of Juvsøyla. From the end of the snowy gully climb ice to belay beneath a roof. Climb through this, and on to the end of the ice at another roof. Continue on poorly protected rock to the top.

Jan Stenstrøm & Thorbørn Ohlèn, 1993.

UPPER GORGE | Blindtarmen

Gøystdal

Bølgen

Jon Haukåssveen, Jan Stenstrøm & Bjørge Lie, 1993. Photo page 21.

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Upper Basin | UPPER GORGE

Map Page 86

Crag Map on page 86 SHADE

25m

ABSEIL IN

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Contents

UPPER GORGE | Lipton

Area Map Overview

Lipton

Intro

Best approached from the upper parking via the abseil gully, though the walk-out back to the road can be hard going in deep snow.

The Climbing How to Use

17. Lipton WI7

GEAR

Suggested Areas

3 pitches. One of the world's great ice-climbs, lurking in the huge groove to the left of Rjukanfossen. Climb the groove (ice, thin ice, or mixed) to a belay beneath the roof, where acrobatic moves rightwards gain the hanging chandelier (size 2 cam in the roof). Follow the ice to a another steep icicle to finish. A very serious climb on which conditions should be assessed very carefully – these icicles collapse multiple times each winter, and serious accidents have occurred here.

Gausetdalen

Carlos Wagner & Franz Fischer, 1995.

18. Lipton Direct WI7/M7

GEAR

Gøystdal

3 pitches. The right-hand side of the Lipton icicles, with protection mostly on the rock. If you're very lucky these icicles might connect together to give a very fine pure ice route. In these rare conditions this is probably the easier of the two routes.

Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen

Kristen Reagen, 2003.

Ozzimosis

Climbers making the most of excellent conditions on Rjukan's infamous test-piece Lipton Direct (WI7) in the Upper Gorge. In most years this righthand variation gives thin mixed climbing, and a line up the left-hand icicle is usually 'easier'. This page.

Gausta

Photo: Keith Leonard

Svadde Rjukan Centre

17 18

Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

98

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis

KROKAN

KROKAN MULTI

SHADE

CRAGGING

PITCH

TOP ROPE

Area Map on page 6

KROKAN

Approach: 10 minutes

With ample parking, a short approach, and some of the valley’s most reliable ice, Krokan is a justifiably popular destination, and one of Europe’s premier ‘ice crags’. There’s plenty to go at here across the grade range, from good beginners’ climbs to the hardest mixed routes in the valley.

The routes are all single pitches, between 15 and 30 metres in length, and top-ropes are easy to set up from trees above the climbs. Not surprisingly, the crag can get very busy, particularly at weekends.

Approach up the valley from Rjukan, passing through a tunnel above the Upper Gorge and Rjukanfossen. Just after leaving the tunnel there is a large parking area on the right (this is an option if approaching Sector Arne), before the main parking down a turn-off on the left.

To reach sector Arne, follow a track which leaves the road between the two parking areas. To reach the main crag, park in the second parking area and continue down the private road past a gate to the skidoo centre. Continue past this for a short way before cutting left down a small path through the trees (fixed rope sometimes in place). This path reaches the crag approximately opposite the popular route Bullen, from where it is easy to walk up or down the gorge to any of the other routes.

Gausta Svadde

Map Page 98

P

10m

Bridge and hydro dam

Private parking (skidoo centre)

Left End p99

Take small path down through trees (fixed rope)

Kjøkkentrappa p100 Bullen Area p101 Right End p102

KROKAN | Sector Arne

Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge

Krokan

3

4 6 5

History Index

P

Fission Bowl p100

Rjukan Centre

Upper Gorge

Sector Arne p99

Gate (do not drive beyond here)

Crag Map on page 98 SHADE

Tunnel

Left End | KROKAN

Map Page 98

Crag Map on page 98 SHADE

10m

99

Contents

KROKAN | Left End

Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing

7

10 8

11

9

How to Use

12

13

14

17

15

16

Sector Arne

8. Unnamed WI3

Home to a handful of very hard mixed routes, this secluded sector sees little traffic. Approach via the track between the two parking areas to the small bridge and hydro dam, from where the sector is visible on the left.

Note that the gorge between here and the main crag offers difficult terrain, and walking between the two areas is not recommended.

Climb the ice ramp and wall above.

1. Reven Rasker Over Isen M7

GEAR

Rein Leindal, 2004.

Will Gadd, 2004.

GEAR

GEAR

Stevie Haston, 2000.

Robert Jasper, 2001.

6. Starten WI4

Discontinuous ice up the right-hand side of the wall.

Left End A series of good short pitches, reached by walking downstream from Bullen.

7. Unnamed WI2+

A short ice pitch with a cave to the left.

BOLTS

Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse

Christian Eek & Øysten Johnsen, 1998.

GEAR

12. Zendium M7

Bølgen Ozzimosis

Christian Eek & Øysten Johnsen, 1998.

GEAR

Kristoffer Szillas, 2011.

Climbs an iced-up open corned right of Karius.

14. Unnamed WI5-

The centre of the wall to gain the main hanging icicles.

Climb the slab of ice to gain a line of bolts up the rock.

GEAR

Bouldery climbing up the short wall to the hanging icecurtain. It is a much more amenable WI5 if the ice reaches the ground.

13. Unnamed WI5

Carlos Wagner & Jon Haukåssveen, 2001.

5. Heavy Water M10-

10. Baktus M7 / WI5

Gausetdalen

Another desperate offering up to the ice curtain.

The right-slanting diagonal.

4. Arne M9

This one can often form some quite steep ice.

WI5 if the ice reaches the ground.

GEAR

Steep, pumpy climbing up ice smears to the left of Go On. 3. Go On M7

9. Unnamed WI3+

11. Karius M7 / WI5

Excellent but poorly protected climbing.

2. What’s the Problem? M9-

Suggested Areas

17

Short and steep, but mild for the grade with an easy lower-off.

15. Unnamed WI5

The prominent icicle sometimes collapses before reaching the ground.

16. Unnamed WI5-

Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

The right-hand icicle is usually an easier proposition than the previous route, with a choice of finishes.

17. Unnamed WI2

An excellent and popular climb, with many variations between WI2 and WI4, depending on conditions and line chosen.

History Index

100

KROKAN | Sector Kjøkkentrappa

Crag Map on page 98

Contents Area Map Overview

Map Page 98

SHADE

10m

KROKAN | Kjøkkentrappa

Intro The Climbing How to Use 26

Suggested Areas

19 17

21

18 20

Left-Hand End (previous page)

Ozzimosis

e

Bølgen

10m

Sid

Mæl & Jailhouse

AM

th

Gøystdal

Sector Kjøkkentrappa Downstream from Bullen, the gorge drops slightly to a small frozen lake, just beyond Fission Bowl...

r No

Gausetdalen

Tannpirkeren (next page)

18. Unnamed WI3+ 7c+

The stepped ramp left of Kjøkkentrappa is not as popular as many routes hereabouts. A variation start sometimes forms on the left (WI4), and the final pillar can often form a steep finish (WI4).

8b+ bolted summer routes

19. Bored to the Extreme M9 Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

Climb a short icy slab to gain steep and difficult mixed climbing to the upper icicle.

22

23

24

25

Andreas Spak, 2004. Photo page 107.

23. Dick in a Toaster M6

20. Kjøkkentrappa WI4

The stepped icefall opposite Fission Bowl is a popular Krokan classic that is usually low in the grade with good rests.

Jon Haukåssveen & Knut Luraas, 1998. Photo page 43.

The right-hand side of Kjøkkentrappa sometimes forms a steep pillar that gives a harder and very worthwhile alternative.

GEAR

Scott Muir, 2003.

25. Two Assholes & Five Nice Bolts M6

Fission Bowl Home to Rjukan's hardest mixed climb, this clean rock wall is located on the opposite side of the gorge, between Topp and Kjøkkentrappa.

Four bolts up the left-hand sidewall to a lower-off.

24. Fission M10

A major dry-tooling classic that has seen its fair share of interest from visiting athletes and numerous on-sight successes.

21. Kjøkkentrappa Right WI5

22. Kaptein Krok M5

BOLTS

Five bolts up the groove at the left side of the wall.

BOLTS

BOLTS

The right-hand side of the wall is another pure dry-tooling route that sees its fair share of successes. The left-hand start is harder but less classic.

Jan Petter Brenteldt, 2003.

Bullen Area | KROKAN 101

Map Page 98

Crag Map on page 98 SHADE

10m

Contents

KROKAN | Bullen Area

Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas 36

35

26 27

28

30 29

31 32

34 33

34

Gausetdalen Gøystdal

Bullen Area

31. Unknown M6

This is the area immediately downstream from where the approach path enters the gorge opposite Bullen.

32. Tipp WI5

BOLTS

A line of bolts just to the left of Tipp.

Bølgen GEAR

26. Tannpirkeren WI5

Technical climbing that can be mixed or ice, depending on conditions.

The thin toothpick doesn't always form, but when it does it gives an intimidating and aesthetic climb.

33. Gaustaspøkelse WI4

Jon Haukåssveen, 1997.

27. Unnamed WI5

The icicles to the right of the toothpick sometimes give a more stable formation, but sometimes don't form at all...

28. Ergonomisk Krigsførelse M7+

BOLTS

A line of 10 bolts just to the left of Topp.

Mikkel Overgaard, 2012.

29. Topp WI5

Jon Haukåssveen, 1997.

30. De Kaller Meg Fjård M7-

A bolted right-hand start to Topp.

Rein Leindal, 2004.

Jon Haukåssveen, 1997. Photo page 27.

A popular route with a very steep finish up the left-hand groove, where tree routes often prove useful. Harder alternatives to the right are also possible.

Svadde Rjukan Centre

Jon Haukåssveen & Knut Luraas, 1998. Photo page 11 & 109.

34. Bullen WI3

Lower Gorge

The wide icefall opposite the approach path is the most popular climb at Krokan, with a variety of lines between WI3 and WI4. It can accommodate numerous teams at the same time, though care is required with falling ice.

35. Super Mario M6

BOLTS

GEAR

Vague icicles up the corner in the trees right of Bullen.

Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

Jon Haukåssveen,1998.

36. Energizer M7BOLTS

Ozzimosis Gausta

Jon Haukåssveen,1998.

Another classic Krokan icefall, with a steep and bold start, followed by easier but sustained climbing. The thin icicle requires a confident approach, particularly if not fully formed, in which case a mixed start may be required.

Mæl & Jailhouse

The big wall to the right of Bullen.

Fredrik Schlyter & Gøran Kropp, 1999.

GEAR

History Index

104

HISTORY | A Brief History of Rjukan

Overview Map Page 6

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

The hydrogen factory at Vemork, with the old hydro-plant behind it. Heavy water was produced in the basement by the Nazis.

Gausetdalen

Photo: Norway's Resistance Museum

Gøystdal

A BRIEF HISTORY OF RJUKAN

Mæl & Jailhouse

Founded between 1905 and 1916, the town of Rjukan has a relatively short but remarkably significant history.

Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

The Industrial Revolution At the start of the last century, the Rjukan valley contained little more than a few isolated farms, until Sam Eyde, an engineer from Arendal, bought the Rjukanfossen waterfall. A brilliant industrialist, engineer, and visionary, Eyde was not only working on harnessing the power of electric arcing, but wanted to mass produce Saltpeter as a fertilizer.

For this he needed large amounts of electricity, and his plan to use the 104-metre Rjukanfossen waterfall to power a huge hydroelectric plant would have a dramatic impact, not only on Rjukan itself, but world events.

Eyde founded A/S Rjukanfoss, which would later become Norsk Hydro, and by 1911 had constructed the world's largest hydroelectric plant at Vemork. 12,000 workers were employed in the project, not only to build a powerplant, but also an entire town, Saltpeter works, and later a hydrogen production plant.

Heavy Water Production It was Nobel prize winner Odd Hassel who alerted Norsk Hydro that their hydrogen production was creating a valuable by-product – heavy water, or

deuterium oxide. Almost indistinguishable from normal water, heavy water is made up of two deuterium atoms, rather than hydrogen, with each atom containing an additional neutron.

At that time, the Nazis were working on a secret project to build an atomic bomb, and heavy water was a key ingredient as a neutron moderator in their experimental nuclear reactors. The Nazis took over the Vemork plant during the war, and in the basement, beneath eight storeys of armoured concrete, they began the laborious production of heavy water.

To the Americans and British, preventing the Nazis from producing sufficient heavy water to create a bomb became a high priority, but destroying the plant would not be easy.

Grouse, and Initial Failure British nighttime bombing tactics were considered unlikely to be successful, due to the mountainous terrain and unreliable weather. There were also serious concerns that stray bombs would hit liquid ammonia storage tanks and endanger the whole Rjukan population.

Instead, the British favoured a small-scale ground attack, and On October 19th, 1942, four Norwegians, who had been trained in Britain, were dropped by parachute into the Songadal region, just west of Rjukan. Codenamed Grouse, their mission was to act as a reconnaissance team, provide weather reports, and guide two Horsa

Overview Map Page 6

A Brief History of Rjukan | HISTORY 105

gliders carrying 35 uniformed troops to a safe landing on Lake Møs. These troops would then fight their way into the plant and destroy the heavy water production facility.

In the event, however, their mission led to disaster, when both gliders crashed in the mountains.

Survivors were rounded up by the Nazis and executed.

The British Raid Following the failure of the original mission, the Grouse group were renamed Swallow, and were forced into hiding on the Hardanger plateau, where they endured a harsh winter surviving on minimal food and the occasional reindeer.

It was not until February 16th, 1943, that the next operation against Vemork was launched, when a group of commandos, code-name Gunnerside, were dropped onto the plateau. From their landing site they skied thirty miles through a blizzard, joining forces with Swallow just north of Vemork.

By February 27th the group were at Fjøsbudalen, ready to launch their attack. After descending into the valley from the north, they scaled the rock walls of the gorge, and entered the plant via an unguarded gate on the Tinnsjø railway. High explosive charges were placed on the production equipment in the basement, and the saboteurs left the building without being noticed.

After the explosives were detonated the guards must have been in a state of some confusion, as the group of commandos made a desperately strenuous escape back across the gorge, up the clearing beneath the Krossobanen cable car, and out onto the plateau. Here they split into two groups: one fully armed in uniform, who skied clear to neutral Sweden, and one group who remained in hiding on the plateau.

The American Raid Although the British operation had been successful, the work at Vemork was so important to the Nazis that they wasted no time in rebuilding, and production was soon re-started. With increased security at the plant, further sabotage was deemed to risky, and so in November 1916 the Americans attacked the plant with 140 Flying Fortress bombers.

This raid caused extensive damage to the Vemork facility, and led to the loss of 20 Norwegian lives.

As a result, the Nazis were forced to abandon heavy water production in the Valley.

Contents Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Looking down to the Vemork plant from the Hardanger plateau, from where the raid was mounted.

Gausetdalen

Photo: Norway's Resistance Museum

Gøystdal

The Railway Ferry Several months after the American bombing raid, the Swallow team, who were still in hiding on the Hardanger Plateau, received word that some stocks of heavy water had survived the raid, and that the Nazis planned to move them by rail to Germany. Once there, they would be almost impossible for the Allies to destroy, and so orders were issued from London to destroy the stock 'at all costs'.

On February 19th, 1944, the saboteurs were back in action, this time placing explosive charges on the Tinnsjø ferry, on which the train carrying the heavy water would cross lake Tinnsjø. The following morning, under high security, the train arrived from Vemork and was loaded onto the ferry for the short crossing. When it reached the deepest part of the lake, the saboteurs exploded the charges, and the ferry sank within minutes.

Fourteen Norwegian civilians and four German guards lost their lives, and the last of the Nazi heavy water stock was lost forever.

Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde Rjukan Centre Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

106

Contents

HISTORY | Climbing History

Overview Map Page 6

A busy day on Rjukanfossen (WI4), the valley's first recorded ice climb. Page 94.

Photo: Keith Leonard

Area Map Overview Intro The Climbing How to Use Suggested Areas

Gausetdalen Gøystdal Mæl & Jailhouse Bølgen Ozzimosis Gausta Svadde

CLIMBING HISTORY

Rjukan Centre

Only vague information exists about much of Rjukan's climbing history, and it's possible that many first ascents, by both local climbers and the British Army, were left unrecorded. Rjukanfossen (WI4) itself was probably the first recorded climb,

by Marius Morstad and Bjørn Lund in 1978 – an impressive achievement given the equipment of the day.

Svaddefossen (WI4) and several other long icefalls are thought to have been climbed by teams from the British Army in the early 1980s, although few details are known. In 1981, Morten Torkildsen and Tom Saxlund made the first ascent of Tjønnstadbergfossen (WI4), and the following year endured a portaledge bivi on the first ascent of the huge Kvitåa icefall (WI2)! 1982 also saw the first ascent of Høgfoss (WI4)

by Keith Robson and Knut Gjesdal.

Lower Gorge Vemork Bridge Upper Gorge Krokan

History Index

Ascents during these early years of Rjukan ice climbing could only be described as sporadic, and although a handful of very impressive climbs had been made, it would be another decade before the potential of the valley was truly recognised. That breakthrough came at the hands of local climber Jon Haukåssveen, who came to Rjukan in 1990 and immediately set his sights on dozens of unclimbed icefalls.

Amongst the first of these was the very popular Vemorkbrufoss Øst (WI4) at Vemork Bridge, followed in 1992 by what is now one of the valley's most frequently climbed routes – Fabrikfossen (WI3) above Rjukan Centre.

The Early nineties also saw the first real exploration of the icefalls within the Upper Gorge, with first ascents of Trappfoss (WI4) by Jon Haukåssveen and Jessie Nazareno in 1992, then Nye Vemorkfoss (WI5) by Ove Dalsegg and Tommy Engvik and