7 minute read
Adrian Buff introduces the Ozarks to Swiss-style cheeses
from OFN June 8, 2020
by Eric Tietze
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Angus • Club Calf Charolais • Simmental Gelbvieh • And Others from Switzerland to the Ozarks, but it is a trip Adrian Buff of Ava, Mo., has made more than once.
His parents, Heinz and the late Vroni Buff, moved to Southwest Missouri when Adrian was only 7 years old.
“They were looking for a place with less regulation, a more affordable place REGULAR SALE EVERY THURSDAY 11AM to purchase and operate a dairy farm,” Adrian exMID MISSOURI plained. Today, the Buff family, STOCKYARDS including Adrian and two of his sisters, Sandra and Kathrin, continues to milk We Appreciate Your Business! more than 100 Holstein WE ARE OPEN and Brown Swiss dairy cows on their 330-acre Grison FOR BUSINESS!
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Dairy and Creamery in rural Douglas County. When he was 20, Adrian accepted a three-year apprenticeship www.dvauction.com and returned to Switzerland to learn the art of Swiss cheesemaking. Afterward, Adrian Heinz moved to the U.S., with his family as a child, but returned to Switzerland to learn Visit midmostockyards.com he returned to the United States, working on a dairy the art of cheesemaking.
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farm and creamery in Hawaii and also in Illinois, before returning to Missouri.
Adrian makes Grisontaler and Ozark Mutschli cheeses. The name, Grison, comes from their original region of Switzerland and now graces both their farm and cheese operation. Ava, Mo. “Grisontaler, a raw milk Swiss-style cheese, has a sweet, nutty flavor and is originally modeled after the Emmentaler from Switzerland. It’s aged over three months.” Adrian explained.
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The biggest difference comes from the kind of culture used. The Ozark Mutschli is a rind cheese and ages for a month. It uses a special culture that I use to wash it several times during the aging process and that helps to break down the protein.”
Swiss cheese is, of course, famous for the holes in the cheese which comes from the carbon dioxide gas produced in the making of the cheese, and that produces its unique flavor.
“It takes 45 gallons of milk to make two wheels of the Grisontaler cheese, each wheel weighing about 18 pounds,” Adrian said. “Forty-five gallons of milk produces six wheels of the Ozark Mutschli cheese and each of those wheels run 6 to 6 1/2 pounds.”
While Adrian continues to work on the dairy farm at Ava, his cheese-making operation is housed at a facility he rents in Fordland, Mo.
“It takes a certain type of building to do this. Ours has a cheese vat plus two rooms, one that is kept at 55 degrees and the other at 75 degrees,” he said.
Marketing for Adrian’s cheeses includes outlets in St. Louis and Kansas City, as well as Springfield, Mo., locations, at Brown Derby and Mama Jean’s. Other Ozarks locations include Farmers’ Markets in Ava and West Plains, stores in Ava, Mountain Grove, Nixa, Mansfield, Seymour and the Missouri Cheese Outlet in Lebanon.
He also supplies information on the pairings of the best foods, wines, and beers to accompany his cheeses.
“I’d like to add another type of cheese, something between a Gruyere or an Apenzeller,” Adrian said. “We are pretty well maxed out in our current facility
so it would involve even more changes. Right now, with this current situation, I think I’ll just have to wait for a while and see how it all works out. Fortunately, our cheeses have a six-month shelf Wholesale Seed Division life so that also helps us in this business.”
Adrian also said he and his family CALL YOUR ORDER IN FOR continue to be blessed as dairy farmers.
“We have about 20 Brown Swiss and EASY DOCK PICKUP! Brown Swiss cross cows and the rest are Holsteins. Holsteins are a quantity pro417-725-3512 • 1-800-648-7379 ducer and the Brown Swiss and Brown Swiss cross give milk that has a higher protein yield, with a better, quality protein, especially for cheese-making,” he explained. “Another Missouri cheese maker Wt. Lbs. Total Germ. GRAINS 50 SOYBEANS - LAREDO, Hay Type 50 SOYBEANS, 3’ Tall-Harvest R-Ready® Willcross WXR7484 $ Lb. Bag Lb.
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The family retains their heifers, which are developed by Denis Turner in Hartville, Mo.
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our calf barn is never empty, as we have CAUCASIAN BLUESTEM Not Available some winter and summer calves as well. We do all AI. We have several of our cows that are over 10 years old but once they no longer breed, we take them to the Springfield Dairy sale.”
From a dairy producer to a cheese maker, Adrian is happy being in the Ozarks.
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“We are fortunate to sell our milk through the Central Equity Cooperative, selling to Kraft and Pacific,” he said. “It’s been really convenient for us, and they’ve been very cooperative, with no objections to our cheese-making operation.” 510 W Mt Vernon, Nixa, MO 65714 nixahardware.com SAVE YOUR SEED SAMPLE SUBJECT TO PRIOR SALE Nixa Hardware Company warrants to the extent of the purchase price that seeds sold are as described on the container within recognized tolerances. Seller gives no other or further warranty expressed or implied. Prices/Germination subject to change without notice. We reserve the right to limit quantities. The Ozarks’ Most Read Farm Newspaper 9