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“PERFECTING THE ART OF DRESSING WELL SINCE 1969”TM
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Welcome to the autumn 2011/winter 2012 edition of The Clotherie Magazine. As always we would like to thank each and every one of you, our loyal customers, for your patronage and support. So long to the long, sweltering heat of summer 2011…a tumultuous summer marked by turbulent weather throughout the country…tornadoes, hurricanes, and earthquakes of unprecedented frequency. We embrace the coming of the fall season as it entices us with change. True, summer is great, but when the seasons change, we just change with them. It’s time to swap the sandals for slip-ons, linens for merinos, and shorts for corduroys and flannels. With a little chill in the air, we are given a chance to don our new jackets, sweaters, leathers and more. After a long summer of renovations, The Clotherie is open with a brand new look! We are so thrilled with our NEW store and have been receiving rave reviews. We would like to give a special thanks to Ron Schaer (designer), Mark Callahan and Ram Gangadean (of Callahan Development Company, Incorporated) for creating a beautiful new look for The Clotherie. Their skill, expertise, and teamwork made this challenging venture a fun experience for all of us. Stop by to see what we are all excited about! A new era has begun… Change is once again blowing into our store, as the newest trends seem to be more pronounced than ever. The Clotherie is excited to offer several new collections this fall along with collections such as Canali, Eton, Nat Nast, Zanella, and Zegna. The Clotherie is pleased to present an array of the finest designs available reflecting the new, rich shades of autumn. A compelling blend of sportswear and clothing by the finest European, Canadian, and American collections provide The Clotherie man with a modern look that exudes luxury and refinement. This fall, as always, knits are at the front and center of style. Among the collective offerings are long-sleeved knit shirts and sleeveless sweater vests, which are great for layering when worn under a suit or a sport jacket. Cardigans continue to double as a jacket for either dress-casual or casual attire. This season’s biggest news from Europe – where all that ungainly fat-knotting neckwear started in the first place – is that ties are now being made less heavily lined, are not meant to be twisted into Windsor-ish pretzels, and should, in fact, do what they do best – sit comfortably nestled within a vee-shaped collar enclosure that actually meets in or near the middle where the neckwear will offer a welcome dash (not huge dollops) of color and pattern. The Clotherie wants to welcome the newest members to our Clotherie staff (see Meet & Greet pages 12 & 14): wardrobe consultant, Tom Simon, Cathyanne Cockrill and Lise Klein, receptionists. Catch up with The Clotherie as they travel to Florence, Italy for Pitti Uomo, the largest menswear tradeshow in the world (page 4). We hope you enjoy this latest issue of The Clotherie Magazine with an array of entertaining articles about exclusive cars, travel, celebrity, and more along with the utmost in fashion news. A special thanks to all of those who partner with us, locally and abroad, for helping make The Clotherie Magazine possible. We encourage you to do business locally with each of the world-class companies represented in this publication. The very best in customer service can be expected from The Clotherie and all our local partners. We look forward to seeing all of you at our celebratory GRAND RE-OPENING PARTY on FRIDAY, OCTOBER 28TH (5:30 pm – 8:00 pm). Warmest personal regards, Greg Eveloff
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ON THE COVER: SAMUELSOHN
30 The 411 on today’s suits
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Welcome
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The Clotherie Out & About
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Events at The Clotherie
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Check It Out
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Getting a Makeover
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Meet and Greet
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Travel to Vancouver, BC
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The Dark Side
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The Tasty Truth
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Layer Player
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Minimalist Movement
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Power, Beauty & Soul
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Pick of the Knit Crop
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Everyday Protection
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Champagne Taste, Beer Budget
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A Kiss for Chocolate
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Overdogs vs. Underdogs
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Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief, Publisher Leslie C. Smith • Editorial Director Stephen Lewis • Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager The Clotherie Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com © 2011, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved.
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Colorful display at Sand
THE CLOTHERIE TRAVELS TO PITTI UOMO
The Clotherie was honored to travel to Florence, Italy in June for Pitti Uomo, a fashion exhibition and monumental international menswear tradeshow. This biannual event that is held at the Fortezza da Bass over the course of three days showcases more than 1,000 men’s collections (66% of which are Italian). We joined crowds of visitors navigating the maze of 13 sections to find an array of classic, modern, contemporary and unique products that would enhance The Clotherie’s fashion lines. This is the greatest platform for new trends in the contemporary fashion world…there’s no place like Florence for fashion!
Entrance to Pitti Uomo
The fabulous fashions of Florence! 4
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Mason had an intriguing booth at Pitti
Beautiful booth at Eton
Erik Wilkinson, Hans Davidson (CEO of Eton), and Greg Eveloff
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events UPCOMING TRUNK SHOWS FRIDAY, OCTOBER 21st and SATURDAY, OCTOBER 22nd 10am–6pm CANALI Trunk Show with Peter Schmid SATURDAY, OCTOBER 29th 11am–5pm ETON Trunk Show with Erik Wilkenson & Matt Becker SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 12th 11am–5pm NAT NAST Trunk Show with Barbara Nast & Ralph Odenberg GRAND RE-OPENING PARTY Friday, October 28th 5:30pm–8:00pm Food…drinks…raffle…and more! ENTER TO WIN PRIZES ALL NIGHT LONG!
HAPPENINGS AT BILTMORE FASHION PARK Along with all of the excitement of the “new” store, grand re-opening party, upcoming trunk shows, and more at The Clotherie, Biltmore Fashion Park continues to present exciting events throughout the season. Movies In the Park The popular “Movies in the Park” will return to Biltmore Fashion Park on October 7th and run through December 19th. Guests can enjoy free classic favorites under the stars beginning at 7:30pm. Come early, bring your blankets and enjoy the show on the Center Lawn. The fall lineup includes such classics as: October 7 – Rainman October 14 – Guys and Dolls October 21 – Raising Arizona October 28 – Beetlejuice November 4 – Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom November 11 – Say Anything November 18 – Annie December 2 – Christmas Vacation December 9 – It’s a Wonderful Life The Tradition of the Poinsettia Tree For more than 20 years, Biltmore Fashion Park has displayed a beautiful poinsettia tree over the fountain in Center Lawn during the holiday season. Families have made a tradition of taking their holiday photographs at the poinsettia tree. Each year, guests tell us they were photographed there when they were children and now bring their children for a holiday photo. Biltmore Fashion Park is proud to offer our customers this traditional holiday experience that is not available anywhere else. Live Center Lawn Broadcast In December, Biltmore Fashion Park will welcome ABC 15’s Sonoran Living crew to broadcast and host its live hour-long show in the Center Lawn, featuring Biltmore Park retailers and restaurants. 6
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In celebration of The Clotherie’s new Eton shop‌ Eton is offering the first five customers who mention this ad during their next store visit an Eton tie or cufflinks.
Everyone who mentions this ad now through November 5, 2011, will be entered into a drawing for a $500 Eton shopping spree at The Clotherie.
etonshirts.com facebook.com/etonofsweden
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news THE CLOTHERIE IS HONORED AS A-LIST STORE Esquire Magazine honored The Clotherie as one of the finest men’s specialty stores in the country in the coveted Spring 2011 Black Book. Esquire Magazine is renowned for its expertise, knowledge, and advice in men’s fashion for over 75 years. The Clotherie, celebrating its 43rd year, is proud to receive this prestigious award that “salutes the stores that stand the test of time.” Stop in and see why we’ve been recognized as one of the nation’s top retail destinations.
THE CLOTHERIE IS #1 MEN’S FASHION RETAIL STORE BY RANKING ARIZONA The Clotherie was voted the #1 Men’s Fashion Retail Store by Ranking Arizona, The Best of Arizona Business for the 13th consecutive year. This represents the largest business opinion poll taken in Arizona. The Clotherie is honored to receive this distinctive recognition.
CHECK IT OUT VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE www.theclotherie.com for the latest CLOTHERIE news, blog, fashion updates, magazine, and so much more! The Clotherie online store at www.theclotherie.com/online-shop which features a wide selection of shirts, trousers, shoes, accessories, and more from your favorite designers…new fashions and exclusive vendors! Join us on FACEBOOK or follow us on TWITTER. Ranking Arizona The Best of Arizona Business 2011
The Clotherie Apparel Collections for Autumn/Winter 2011 AG Adriano Goldschmied Agave Alberto Alden Shoes Allegri Outerwear Arnold Zimberg Auri Shoes Baade II Bill Lavin Belts Canali Citizens of Humanity Jeans Codice Corneliani Culturata Shirts Donald Pliner Ecco Edward Armah Pocket Rounds
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Ermenegildo Zegna Equilibrio Eton Gardeur Gendarme Cologne Geoff Nicholson Pocket Squares Gravati Shoes Hush Puppies Ibiza International Laundry Italo Ferretti J. Paul Face Care Jack Lipson Shirts Jack Victor John Smedley Left Coast Tees Mac Jeans Masonʼs
Martin Gordon Michael Toschi Nat Nast Pantherella Robert Barakett Robert Comstock Robert Graham Robert Talbott Rufus Sportshirts Samuelsohn Sand Thaddeus Think Pens Trussini Tulliani Belts Zanella Zegna Sport Z Zegna
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big news THE CLOTHERIE GETS A MAKEOVER! “Everything old is new again.” After many years just about everything needs a little fine tuning…a little nip and tuck, a little overhaul, a little redo. Well, after a long, hot summer, a temporary move down the mall, and walls tumbling down, The Clotherie is open with a brand new look! Just like putting the perfect suit and tie Demo time! combo together, this project was a combination of skill, talent, and a lot of teamwork. Ron Schaer used his talents as a designer of commercial and residential properties to inspire the new look of the store, while Mark Callahan and Ram Gangadean, general contractors for both residential and commercial properties, used their skills to pull the look together. The store was packed from sunrise until the wee hours of the morning as teams of workers worked to get the job done timely and efficiently.
There goes the hospitality bar!
In the sweltering 116° heat on August 14th, The Clotherie team moved racks of clothing, carts of displays, and truckloads of merchandise from one end of the mall to the other. Check out the new Eton shirt display, the beautiful and colorful tie presentation, and all of your favorites in our newly renovated store. Please come visit us soon to check out our new “digs” along with the fabulous fall merchandise! ETON SHOP IN SHOP
Ramon on the move.
The Clotherie is proud to announce the largest ETON SHOP IN SHOP in North America. The beautiful custom-made fixtures, designed and produced in Sweden, house several hundred exquisite Eton shirts. Please stop by soon to see Eton’s new fall collection.
The New Look.
The Clotherie’s New Eton Shop in Shop. 10
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meet&greet NEW CLOTHERIE STAFF TOM SIMON Tell us a little about yourself. What inspired you to pursue a career in men’s retail? How many years have you been in retail and what kinds of experiences have you had? I grew up in Scottsdale, Arizona. I was a victim of the ’60’s British invasion, which led me to learning guitar and playing in various bands. The link to fashion came when I struggled to emulate the look of Brian Jones, Mick Jagger and Jeff Beck. I was lucky to find some items in thrift stores and also was fortunate to have a mom who was a seamstress. I was first introduced to The Clotherie in 1970 when I saved and bought a puffy shirt for $80. Later, while working at a record store, I was recruited to work for The Clotherie and began my retail journey, one that has spanned the course of over 30 years. After multiple stints at The Clotherie, I left in 1990 to start Hub Clothing. During that time I met my future wife, Amanda, who worked with me for 17 years. Now 35 years later I am happy to return to The Clotherie, a store that I value as one of the most reputable and upstanding in the nation. I am excited to share my fashion expertise and knowledge with The Clotherie clientele. I look forward to seeing many of my “old” friends and meeting so many “new.”
On your time off, what activities and hobbies spark your interest? In my off time, I love to delve into architecture, mid-century furniture, and music.
Over the years, what trends in men's fashions have excited you the most and what do you see for the future? My favorite trends now are the return to Americana with an updated tweek along with modern versions of American classics. I will always be a jean guy and I can’t think of anything more American than jeans.
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of the town
meet&greet NEW CLOTHERIE STAFF LISE KLEIN Tell us a little about yourself. I am from upstate New York, but grew up in Phoenix. After many years in California, my husband, Brad (of 20 years), and I decided to move back to Phoenix and raise our family. We have 2 children; Ali, a freshman at UC Berkeley, and, Max, a junior at Horizon High School. We also have an extremely hyper 6-year-old Border Terrier, Lucy. What inspired you to pursue a career in men’s retail? As my children have gotten older, I decided I needed something for me. Men’s retail seemed like a good fit. How many years have you been in retail and what kinds of experiences have you had? I worked in retail when I was in high school, selling shoes and lingerie. On your time off, what activities and hobbies spark your interest? When I am not at The Clotherie, I enjoy spending time with my family and friends. I also practice and teach yoga. I am a certified yoga instructor teaching at several studios around the valley. When the weather is nice, I hike the 40th street trailhead with Lucy. I am an avid reader of many genres.
CATHYANNE COCKRILL Tell us a little about yourself. I am originally from the east coast and I am a die-hard Boston sports fan. I came to Arizona to attend Arizona State (GO DEVILS!) and ended up marrying Phoenix native and Clotherie alumni, Anthony Cockrill. We live in Scottsdale with our darling daughter, Mary-Jane Margaret. What inspired you to pursue a career in men’s retail? I have worked in many aspects of fashion, but fine men’s retail is special because the workmanship and quality true shows. Garments of this caliber are constructed and made with such care the technique of blending color, fabrics, and clothing becomes “artlike” in nature. How many years have you been in retail and what kinds of experiences have you had? I have been in retail for over 26 years, working with everything from the tradition of Ralph Lauren to Vintage Couture . On your time off, what activities and hobbies spark your interest? When I am away from The Clotherie, I love to spend time with my family whether it is something active outside or baking treats indoors. If I have time, I love to write or relax with needlework. Over the years, what trends in men's fashions have excited you the most and what do you see for the future? Over the years I have seen quite a few changes in menswear. I particularly like the clean lines being shown currently as opposed to a lot of “pomp” – I like good clothes with great workmanship and tailoring.
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Host of the last Olympic Winter Games, cold season Vancouver typically remains snow-free in the city while its three frosted ski resorts glint invitingly in the mountains less than 30 minutes away. Powder hog or not, there’s more than enough to keep visitors busy here for 48 hours.
a two-day swing through
the city in the snow Have you ever been to Vancouver, BC? Named “Top City of the Americas” in Condé Nast Traveler magazine’s 2009 Readers’ Choice Awards, Vancouver offers travellers both outstanding opportunities for outdoor adventure and the sophisticated amenities of a world-class city. Vancouver has been chosen as the world’s “Most Liveable City” in 2011 by the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU), a title it has been awarded eight times since 2002. Maybe now is the time to experience one of the world’s most spectacular cities — host of the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. Early growth The Fraser Gold Rush of 1858 brought more than 25,000 men, mainly from California. Vancouver is among British Columbia’s youngest cities; the first European settlement in what is now Vancouver was not until 1862. A sawmill established in 1863 began the city’s long relationship with logging. It was quickly followed by mills. One mill, known as the Hastings Mill, became the nucleus around which Vancouver formed.
The settlement which came to be called Gastown, grew up quickly around the original makeshift tavern established by “Gassy” Jack Deighton in 1867. Within a few years, the colonial government surveyed the settlement and renamed it "Granville" in honour of the then-British Secretary of State for the Colonies, Lord Granville. The City of Vancouver was incorporated in 1886 when the Continental Pacific Railroad arrived. CPR president William Van Horne arrived to establish the CPR terminus and gave the city its name in honour of George Vancouver. Vancouver’s population grew from a settlement of 1,000 people in 1881 to more than 100,000 by 1911 — just 30 years later. The economy of early Vancouver was dominated by the CPR, which fueled economic activity and led to the rapid development of the new city. In fact, the CPR was the main real estate owner and housing developer in the city. Natural resources became the basis for Vancouver’s economy. The resource sector was initially based on logging and later on exports moving through the seaport, where commercial traffic constituted the largest economic sector in Vancouver by the 1930s.
Did you know Vancouver is one of Canada’s warmest cities? 16
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Touch down Vancouver’s airport is 13 kilometers south of the city, with a 26-minute train link on the Canada Line to reach downtown’s Waterfront Station. Get your bearings Bordered by water on two sides and Stanley Park’s vast woodland to the north-west, downtown Vancouver comprises compact, easily walkable neighbourhoods, such as Gastown, Chinatown, and Yaletown. The centre is the busy intersection of shop-lined Robson Street and neon-twinkling Granville Street, the nightlife party strip. Hop on the transit system (translink.bc.ca) for neighbourhoods further afield: bus 50 for Granville Island’s market and artisan studios; the 99B-Line for the museums and gardens of the University of British Columbia (UBC); and the charming 12-minute SeaBus boat hop from Waterfront Station to the North Shore. An all-day transit pass costs C$9. For further information and resources, Tourism Vancouver’s Visitor Centre is at 200 Burrard Street (001 604 683 2000; tourismvancouver.com; daily 8:30a.m.–6:00 p.m.). Check in The heritage Victorian Hotel at 514 Homer Street (001 604 681 6369; victorianhotel.ca) combines a central location with antiquey rooms and free Wi-Fi. En suite doubles are from C$139, excluding breakfast. Near Stanley Park, the chintzy Buchan Hotel at 1906 Haro Street (001 604 685 5354; buchanhotel.com) has good bathroom-sharing budget doubles from C$55, excluding breakfast. Contemporary decor and value-added extras combine at the boutique St. Regis Hotel at 602 Dunsmuir Street (001 604 681 1135; stregishotel.com), where rates include breakfast and unlimited free international phone calls, with doubles from C$159. Alternatively, push the boat out at the luxurious new Fairmont Pacific Rim at 1038 Canada Place (001 604 695 5300; fairmont.com/pacificrim), where the best rooms face the North Shore mountains; don’t miss the rooftop pool. Doubles are from C$290, excluding breakfast.
STANLEY PARK
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Take a hike Start outside the slick new waterfront Convention Centre expansion, where you’ll spot the Olympic Cauldron and Douglas Coupland’s Lego-like killer whale sculpture. Then launch yourself south along Burrard Street. At the intersection with Hastings Street, check out the magnificent art deco Marine Building. When it was completed in 1930, it was the British Empire’s tallest skyscraper. It is decorated with moulded seahorses, lobsters, and ships’ prows. Continue south on Burrard and within three blocks you’ll be at Christ Church Cathedral (10 a.m.–4 p.m. daily). Try the vestibule doorway on the first corner: it leads to a hidden William Morris Company stained-glass window. Return to Burrard and take the next left onto West Georgia Street, and then the next left again onto Hornby Street. Here you’ll find the Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art (11 a.m.–5 p.m. Wednesday–Sunday; admission $10). It showcases the carvings and paintings of Canada’s foremost First Nations artist; his work is on the back of the C$20 bill. The totems in the Great Hall are a highlight. Cross to the other side of West Georgia and nip into the Vancouver Art Gallery at 750 Hornby Street (001 604 662 4700; vanartgallery.bc.ca 10am-5pm Wednesday-Monday, 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Tuesday; admission $19.50. This is downtown’s best cultural attraction; look for anything here by BC photoconceptualists Jeff Wall and Stan Douglas. Then, for lunch, buy a bulging pulled pork sandwich (C$6) at Re-Up BBQ on the gallery’s north side. Window shopping Granville Island, actually a peninsula under the iron arches of Granville Bridge, is full of intriguing retail opportunities. Try the Public Market at 1661 Duranleau Street (granvilleisland.com) for deli treats; Edie Hats in the Net Loft at 1666 Johnston Street (ediehats.com) for snazzy headgear; and the Gallery of BC Ceramics at 1359 Cartwright Street (bcpotters.com) for a
kaleidoscope of well-priced local art. Finish up with a tour and beer tasting at Granville Island Brewing at 1441 Cartwright Street (gib.ca); Lions Winter Ale is recommended. Tours run daily at noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. and cost $9.75. Dining with the locals Possibly Canada’s best dining city, Vancouver has a belt-straining array of great eats. For local seafood perfectly prepared, hit Yaletown’s swanky Blue Water Caf at 1095 Hamilton Street (001 604 688 8078; bluewatercafe.net) for oysters ($2.75/1.70). Alternatively, sink into the candlelit ambience (and velvet-soft lamb shank) of Belgian-influenced Chambar at 562 Beatty Street (001 604 879 7119; chambar.com). Or hit arguably the world’s best Asian dining scene outside Asia. Bao Bei at 163 Keefer Street (001 604 688 0876; bao-bei.ca) is a loungey new Chinese brasserie where the short-rib buns and inventive cocktails are justifiably popular. The West End’s chatty Guu With Garlic at 1698 Robson Street (001 604 685 8678; guu-izakaya.com) is an authentic Japanese izakaya (pub-restaurant); tori karaage fried chicken is recommended. End the day taste-testing BC microbrews in Gastown’s Alibi Room at 157 Alexander Street (001 604 623 3383; alibi.ca) or in the venerable Railway Club at 579 Dunsmuir Street (001 604 681 1625; therailwayclub.com), where there’s nightly live music and great beers such as Central City Brewing’s ESB.
day two Sunday morning: a walk in the park A bracing Stanley Park seawall stroll is a Vancouver must. It’s an 8.8 kilometer circuit, but you’ll be rewarded with shimmering ocean views, towering mountain backdrops, and an accompaniment of swaying Douglas firs. If you’re not up for the full walk, rent a bike on nearby Denman Street or cherry pick park highlights such as Brockton Point’s totem poles and the Vancouver Aquarium (001 604 659 3400; vanaqua.org; 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. daily; admission $21). Out for brunch Try the Fish House in Stanley Park (001 604 681 7275; fishhousestanleypark.com); for a seafood-focused weekend brunch go for smoked salmon benedict ($17.95/11.35; 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Tuesday to Friday, 11am-10pm Saturday & Sunday). Or hit the deco-look Acme Cafe at 51 Hastings Street (001 604 569 1022; acmecafe.ca) for goat’s cheese scrambled eggs (8–9 p.m. Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Sunday).
The icing on the cake At the landmark Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, take the Hornby Streetside entrance into the building. On the corridor’s left wall, peruse the menu that King George VI and Queen Elizabeth enjoyed during the hotel’s 1939 opening. Snow escape Vancouver is one of those rare cities where you can stroll beaches in the morning and hit powder-packed mountain slopes in the afternoon. The three peak contenders — Grouse, Cypress, and Seymour — are on the North Shore where transit or shuttle buses to each run from Lonsdale Quay Seabus terminal (30). To access the SkyRide gondola, take transit bus 236 from Lonsdale Quay or drive to the parking lot on Capilano Road. The 1,250 meter altitude lodge complex at Grouse Mountain (001 604 980 9311; grousemountain.com) is the gateway to Vancouver’s favourite winter playground. There are 26 ski runs, but snowboarding is even bigger, especially during floodlit evenings when the slopes open until 10 p.m. Expect to see Dakine-clad teens hitting the terrain parks en masse. A one-day lift pass costs C$55. Along with a small outdoor ice rink, there’s an excellent but often overlooked snowshoe park here (equipment rentals available), where you can crunch between icicle-covered fir trees before warming up in the glowing lodge. The lodge’s fine-dining Observatory Restaurant is quite posh, but the adjacent hearth-warmed bistro has similar panoramic views over the city twinkling in the ocean below. Cypress Mountain (001 604 926 5612; cypressmountain.com) is accessed by car via Cypress Bowl Road or by shuttle bus from Lonsdale Quay and points across Metro Vancouver (round-trip $23). It was venue for the 2010 Olympic snowboarding and freestyle skiing events. With a 610 meter vertical drop, plus 53 runs equally divided between intermediate and advanced, it’s the area’s biggest ski mountain. It also offers snowshoeing and a six-chute snowtubing course, as well as the North Shore’s only cross-country skiing area: there are 19 kilometers of Nordic trails including 7.5 kilometers set up for nighttime access. A one-day pass costs C$58. Mount Seymour (001 604 986 2261; mountseymour.com) is the least slick of the three operations and that’s the reason it attracts locals more interested in the slopes than the aprés-ski. Accessed by car via Mount Seymour Parkway, snow tires are required. There’s also a shuttle bus from Lonsdale Quay (roundtrip $16). Along with its 39 runs including lots of off-piste areas, there are four terrain parks and family-friendly extras such as snowtubing and tobogganing. Seymour is also the cheapest of the three: one-day lift tickets are C$44.50. John Lee’s work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times, London’s Observer, The Daily Telegraph, and Guardian Weekly, among other publications. T H E
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One couldn’t help, on viewing the men’s fashion shows from New York to Milan, but think back to 1999 when The Matrix made its startling movie debut. Neo, Morpheus, Agent Smith — there were more men in black in that film than there were in 1997’s Men in Black, women too, if you remember (and who can forget) Trinity’s form-fitting black leather pants and matching tank top. Indeed, you would have to go back to the late 1990s to see men’s style so ebonized as it is this season. As before, at its core lies the black suit, worn with a stark white shirt for contrast, a black tie, and highly polished black shoes. Take away the tie and that shirt fades to black. Slip on an overcoat or outerwear jacket and it’s bound to be black too, and that’s not to mention the black wool scarf and pair of black leather gloves to go with. The same monochromatic assemblage, moreover, applies just as strongly to more casual but no less darkly shaded blazers and separate trousers, leather jackets and boots. All this sounds rather like a fashion bonanza, doesn’t it? How could dressing yourself get much simpler than black goes with black goes with black? The only problem (you just knew there had to be a problem, didn’t you?) is that not all blacks are created equal. They come in different grades and tones that are almost indiscernible until you start putting the individual pieces together and see that they are in fact ink black, coal black, raven’s wing black, pitch black, plus some other kinds of black. One item might have a flat matte surface, while another might be more loftily textured, and still another might give off a faint reflective sheen in the light. The result can prove a little too chaotic for true cohesion. That is why one’s best bet in matters black is to stick to the Agent Smith-approved black suit, which is made from a single dye-lot fabric, and use a white shirt to form a kind of neutral zone around one’s dark neckwear.
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DION ST YLE • QUALITY • SER VICE
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Better yet, do what designers are showing on the runway today. Set one strong color at odds against this sea of black: a crimson scarf flung around the throat, for instance, or the same hue in a buffalo check jacket; an electric blue dress shirt or tie with your black suit; a long-sleeved tee in deep marigold with your black blazer and trousers. Given the minimal-to-no patterning in most of this season’s outfits, a shock of such dense color makes up for the lack of visual interest elsewhere and offers the observer’s eye something stimulating to focus on. As great as all these contrasting colors are, the hands-down favorite for black-matching this fall is brown — in every variety, from the soft tawniness of a reverse shearling jacket to the luxurious nap of a camel’s hair topcoat, from a pair of warm tobacco leather shoes to the deliciously rich chocolate of an Italian wool sportscoat. For sheer on-the-money mastery, however, the pick of our seasonal crop of browns has to be burnished copper. This shade showed up so often in so many furnishings in so many collections, that finding the bronzy-copper color available in stores in a silk puff, tie, shirt, or pullover should be a breeze. Black may be huge and brown highly popular, but gray, ranging from light heather to the deepest, darkest charcoal, definitely has something to say this season as well. From a grainy Donegal tweed overcoat to a smooth worsted pearl gray vest, this neutral shade mates beautifully with black and pairs up splendidly with brown. It also works just as well on its own in a monochrome ensemble — even better than black, in fact, since gray is so nonpartisan that its different tones and textures don’t war with each other. Indeed, one of the sharpest outfits to be seen in this season’s designer collections was a charcoal gray three-piece suit topped with a iron gray trenchcoat, and worn with a black shirt, acorn-brown tie and black shoes. It was by no means Matrix-like and yet in its own way, way cool. So you see that it is possible to go over to the dark side, to dabble in the black arts and other dark materials, without losing your sartorial soul. But, to quote Morpheus, we can only show you the door. You’re the one that has to walk through it.
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Millions of us go on a diet every year. Fast forward 12 months of totting up calories and forgoing of our favorite foods and most of us will have piled the weight back on. Deprivation diets are doomed to fail, and interestingly, an increasing amount of research shows that it’s actually environmental triggers rather than physical hunger that determines how much we eat. So make your surroundings work for you with our steps for munching success:
1. Identify the triggers PROBLEM: You mindlessly munch on food. SOLUTION: Most of us forget about the little bits of food we pick at through the day, whether it’s a handful of gummy bears after lunch or a chocolate bar on the commute home from work. This means we can eat hundreds of extra calories without even noticing! But fear not: growing evidence suggests that simply putting pen to paper and recording your snacking patterns can help to double weight loss results. Try keeping a food diary for a week, rating your hunger on a scale of 10 before eating, as well as jotting down every morsel and your emotions as you do so. This will help you pinpoint specific triggers that may be causing cravings or overeating. “You’ll surprise yourself when you look at your diary,” promises Samantha Prior, nutritionist at Totally Nourish (www.totallynourish.com). 24
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“When you write down everything you have consumed, including drinks and extra calories that you forgot about, you start to see why you are finding weight management difficult. You may even find that you don’t want to eat a chocolate or decide to swap coffee for herbal tea, as you want your food diary to look positive.”
2. Eat with your eyes PROBLEM: Visual cues control how you eat. SOLUTION: We tend to choose our food according to visual cues, such as color, texture, and variety, instead of eating based on hunger or satiation. Renowned U.S. behavioural eating expert Dr. James Painter, who carried out a study comparing the consumption of shelled and non-shelled pistachio nuts, discovered that participants ate 50% more when the nuts were shelled compared with when the shells were left on. This shows just how much food presentation can affect eating habits. The color and texture of foods also play a large role in food choices. Think about it: if you were faced with two bowls of sweets, one of which was filled with a variety of choice and colors and another bowl filled with a single kind, which would you eat from? “Bright food is naturally more appealing to the eye,” explains Samantha. “Liven up food by adding lots of colorful fruit and vegetables. It will make it look more appetising and will be packed full of nutrients too.”
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3. Don’t get distracted PROBLEM: You’re preoccupied when eating. SOLUTION: There’s nothing better than a gossip with the girls over dinner, but, according to Dr Painter, eating with friends is a fat trap waiting to happen. Being distracted by other influences, such as talking while eating or having dinner in front of the TV or computer, can actually impair digestion. “When you don’t take time over eating, it can affect your production of digestive juices, meaning you don’t break down food properly,” explains Samantha. “When you next eat, take time to look at your food and smell the dish to help stimulate the digestive juices. Put your knife and fork down between each bite and chew your food properly. Quite often people perceive how full they are based on time, so by eating slowly you may find you are much fuller than when you speed through your meal.”
4. Downsize dishes PROBLEM: You overeat at mealtimes. SOLUTION: The average dinner plate in the 1950s was nine inches wide; and now our plates measure approximately 13 inches, so it’s no wonder our waistlines are rapidly growing as a result. A bigger plate usually equals larger portions, so downsizing your dishes can help you lose weight as you’ll naturally eat less. “If you think of your stomach as being the size of your two fists put together, you have an idea of appropriate portion size,” says Samantha. “By sticking to correct serving sizes you are less likely to upset your body’s natural metabolism, which is the ideal way to keep fuller for longer.”
5. Say no to bulk buying PROBLEM: You can’t resist money-saving food offers. SOLUTION: From buy-one-get-one-free stickers to special half-price offers, supermarkets are marketing masterminds and know how to push the right cash-spending buttons. A study carried out in 2008 revealed that, on average, more than 60% of supermarket promotions are run on sugary and fatty foods rather than fresh fruit and vegetables, a trend that has taken its toll on our waistlines. “Refined foods, such as chocolate, crisps, cakes, and pizza upset the body’s biochemical behavior, making them become addictive,” says Samantha. Try and shop in local grocery stores or at a local farmer’s market for fresh organic produce. If your only option is the supermarket, sidestep the convenience aisles and opt for fresh food instead.
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Sir Ranulph could write a book on it, and given that he’s such a prolific writer, he probably has. As the first person to reach both the North and South Poles by surface, the first to cross the length of Antarctica on foot, climber of Mount Everest at the age of 65, he is, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, the world’s greatest living explorer, which would make him the perfect model for this season’s salute to the alpinist.
Any clothing associated with scaling snowy heights — knit tuques and knit undershirts, flannel-like shirts and warm sweaters, waist-length quilted vests and hip-length quilted coats, heavy wool or corduroy trousers, and, especially, sturdy ankle boots topped off with thick, folded-over socks — makes the grade this fall, and the more individual pieces placed together the better.
—Sir Ranulph Fiennes, British polar explorer
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888 55 ZEGNA ZEGNA.com
Water Repellent Bomber in Technical Wool
look
The look, known as layering in the fashion world and good, old-fashioned common sense everywhere else, allows for the quick removal or addition of garments in order to combat the cold, wet, and wind on the one hand, and to release bodily moisture and heat from exertion on the other.
Just why it is so stylish right now likely owes a lot to last year’s bitter winter across Europe. It was simply amazing the way all designers dropped the idea of shorts and leggings for both sexes that they floated about last fall and got down to survival basics this season. Whatever the reason, we’re glad they did. Mind you, being designers, they’ve taken things a bit too far in spots, showing things like suits gussied up with turtlenecks under button-neck knits under dress shirts with a fuzzy sweater on top for good measure. Let’s face it: Survivorman would not be such a big TV hit if star Les Stroud filmed all his episodes in a climate-controlled office. An ordinary vest in self fabric (that is, the same fabric as your suit), a plain solid material like canary yellow Melton, an off-pattern fabric such as a Tattersall check, or a solid or Fair Isle knit is all you need to wear for warmth between your dress shirt and suit jacket. However, when you hit the great outdoors in casual clothes, feel free to carry your entire closet on your back. Knits play a big part in casual layering, as do both collared and collarless shirts, which can be used to form the meaty part of a sweater sandwich. A quilted vest? Fine and dandy. Topped with a fur-trimmed jacket too? Sure, why not. Or how about replacing those with a reverse shearling jacket, whose dual nature, skin on the outside, thick lamb’s wool on the inside, is just like getting two layers in one? You may even, thanks to the addition of throat tabs and latches on everything from woven shirts and knit sweaters to outwear vests and jackets, cover your neck area several times over, and protect it some more by winding a wool or cashmere scarf on top. Just remember to use only one or two heavy or lofty pieces and restrict the rest of your ensemble’s garments to reasonable weights. That way, you will end up looking like a true man of the mountains — and not like the Michelin Man.
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From the return of the double-breasted jacket to the latest in dress fabrics and furnishings, here’s the 411 on Autumn/Winter 2011 suits.
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minimal effort
There is an inevitable, back-to-school feeling in the air come the day after Labor Day that affects us all psychologically, no matter how old we grow. A sense that now we must stop being boys, put away the childish toys of summer and once again hunker down to adult tasks. That same sensibility hits menswear creators too, who, despite occasional slips into the ridiculous, tend towards the sublime when designing their – soon to be our – fall/winter clothing. They become more businesslike about all their offerings, but even more serious about the business attire they present to us. A good case in point is this season’s selection of suits. Many of these are near-minimalist in design with little-to-no visible patterning and a steady reliance on dark shades – black, gray and brown being the preferred hues. The somberness may be enlivened here and there with the addition of one potently colored furnishing, such as a cobalt blue necktie or a tiny-yet-vibrant line of orange clocking running up one’s socks, but by and large the overall look is one of clean lines and quiet elegance. Every so often, it’s true, a more lively pattern may break out. It’s perfectly fine to wear a houndstooth or windowpane plaid sportscoat, for instance, and pinstripes and glen check suits will always be with us. But now these too come across more muted than in years previous.
You can say the same of tweed suits and sport jackets. There’s a lot of gray tweed fabric to be seen, from light heathers to dark smokes (incidentally, all look smashing set against a pair of brown suede shoes), but it’s a toned-down version of tweed. Donegals, in particular, are not allowed to go nuts interspersing their plain salt-and-pepper weave with cheery little nubs of colored wool.
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effects
In terms of overall structure, this fall’s tailored attire is still a narrowed yet unconstricting cut, often finished off with some small, classically British touch, such as a suit’s extra ticket pocket or a sportscoat flaunting a throat latch for decorative effect. Two-button jackets continue their reign in single-breasted styles, and vested three-piece suits are proving a major trend. Even better, double-breasted suits have made a spectacular return and are now being shown in practically every designer collection. By all means, get into the latter, but bear two important things in mind: The new double-breasted jacket, while made in the standard six-button-two-to-button configuration, is most often meant to be closed with the top and middle buttons; the lapel, in other words, does not “roll” to the middle-and-bottom button closure of previous incarnations. Thus, designers have cleverly seen to it that you can’t simply unearth your old DBs. You’ll have to buy the new look to stay in style. Our second precept is to avoid for the moment any double-breasted jackets featuring a severely shortened hemline since, unlike single-breasted jackets, double-breasteds are not particularly attractive when hemmed above the hip crease. It’s a question of visual balance — one that may take a year or two to work out – so be your best judge when choosing a double-breasted outfit this autumn, and, for safety’s sake, keep on the conservative side. A great way, by the way, to have your cake and eat it too would be hedging your bet by getting a double-breasted peacoat to wear over your single-breasted sport jacket, and a well-tailored double-breasted overcoat (the full-length versions look terrific this season) to wear over your single-breasted dress suit.
Suit trousers also appear to be having a bit of an identity crisis. Some designers are straying towards single pleats again, while others still avoid this style. Some prefer a plain round press on their pants, while others like a sharp crease down the center line. Many, despite today’s relatively narrow leg, are placing deep cuffs on their trousers, for no apparent reason other than adding a touch of horizontality to an otherwise vertically extended silhouette. This season’s suiting fabrics and classic cuts are, in the best tradition, English influence as viewed through Italian eyes. Hushed luxury comes from their quiet coloration and patterning, their pared-down detailing, their materials ranging from the finest, smoothest worsteds to double-faced wool, and cashmere jackets that obviate the need for a separate lining. Tailored to the nth degree — because no room for error means they have to be — they all make for clean, uncomplicated keepers. “Like with all new trends, if we don’t have it in stock, we can order it — or better yet — this is a great time to choose your own fabrics and go custom!” —GREG EVELOFF
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automotive excellence
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Aston Martin is a company and a brand that has embraced change without comprimising its worldwide reputation for understated style and elegance. Captivating design and umparalleled attention to detail are central to the company ethos of Power, Beauty, and Soul. Perfectly proportioned, flowing bodywork, and cosseting interiors epitomise the marriage of form, function, and genuine materials, from the Vantage to the D89, flagship DBS, and now Rapide. An Aston Martin combines power and sporting ability with refinement, luxury, and exceptional beauty.
one-77 One-77 fuses advanced technology with stunning Aston Martin design to create possibly the world’s most desirable automotive art form. Based on a sophisticated carbon-free chassis with a hand-crafted aluminum body, this car will deliver exhilarating performance for a strictly limited number of discerning customers.
automotive excellence
v8 vantage & V8 Vantage Roadster The V8 Vantage is a hand-crafted sports car that offers outstanding performance and agility. The most affordable model in the range, it fuses traditional Aston Martin style and everyday usability. The result is the world’s most desirable sports car. The advanced body structuree of the V8 Vantage is the key to its superb handling and responsiveness. The V8 Vantage Roadster embodies all the qualityes that are intregal to Aston Martin and represents the essence of pure driving pleasure. The Roadster is a compact sports car that offers an astonishing blend of performance and exhiliration. It is a car with two distinct personalities: open and invigorating or closed, cosseting, and protective.
Rapide The elegant Rapide, functional yet luxurious, provides space for up to four adults combined with an engaging driving experience synonymous with all Aston Martins. As the marque’s first production four-door sports car, Rapide encapsulates core values of Power, Beauty and Soul; four “swan wing” doors provide access to cosseting sports seats both front and rear bestowing occupants with ample accommodation. Rapide is the culmination of the Aston Martin range of sports cars, a car that seals the revival of a truly admired marque. There is now an Aston Martin for every taste and for every use. The Rapide provides the most versatile and practical solution without diluting the essence of an Aston Martin — a thoroughbred sports car, powerful, beautiful, and without comprimise. 36
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automotive excellence
DBS volante & DBS Coupe The definitive luxury sports car offers more than performance, beauty, and comfort. It offers dynamic and aesthetic purity, an exquisite interior, and an unsurpassed driving experience. With a 6-litre V12 powerhouse shaped by the aerodynamic demands of high performance, the Aston Martin DBS marries race car technology with an exclusive interior fit and finish. Exacting standards and a relentless focus on structural rigidity mean that the DBS Volante and Coupe alike deliver surpreme control and a truly refined drive, whether on an open highway or a mountain pass.
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DB89 coupe & DB89 volante The DB89 is a sports car with GT levels of comfort and refinement. Its design philosphy is uncompromising craftsmanship, the use of the finest quality materials, and the unique Aston Martin character. Conceved and designed from the outset as both a coupe and a volante, The DB89 is the quintessential sporting grand tourer — an authentic sports car that combines true beauty with functionality. The DB89 looks elegant and perfectly proportioned from every angle — roof up or down — and offers a supreme combination of driver involvement and luxury.
V12 vantage Agility and outright performance form the basis of the design for the V12 Vantage — the most exciting incrnation of the Vantage model — to date. Aston Martin’s most powerful engine is fused with supreme dexterity to produce a truly electrifying sports car. The V12 Vantage subtly hints at its sporting intent with its controlled agression and lower, purposeful stance. The naturally aspirated 6-litre V12 enginge provides the driver with instananeous access to high levels of power and torque at all engine speeds. Near-perfect weight distribution and a revised suspension provide the V12 with outstanding handling capabilities, while the carbon ceramic braking system deliveres immense stopping power.
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sweater weather
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We’ll never know who picked up the first long needles and started interlocking strands of animal fiber to form the original knitted garment. We’ll never even know what that garment was. A wooly pair of gaiters? A scarf? Perhaps a set of separate sleeves? Whoever it was wanted to make sure he or, if that genius was in fact a woman, her man kept warm in inclement weather. Because nothing really works as well on cold days as a knit, nor is anything quite so comfortably toasty on cold nights. Furs and shearlings can be bulky and stiff; woven cloth is usually too flat and thin. But a knit retains the inherent heat-holding structure of the animal hair while at the same time offering the ease and elasticity of a more processed fiber — the ideal material world, you might say. This fall, as always, knits are at the front and center of style. Among the collective offerings are long-sleeved knit shirts, such as the round-necked Henley with its unique sixbutton front placket, a popular garment on its own as well as for layering under a checked work shirt or over a dress shirt and tie. Sleeveless sweater vests make for great layering too when worn under a suit or a sport jacket. Cardigans, some thin-knit and close-fitting, others slightly bulkier and featuring a shawl collar addition, continue to double as a jacket for either dress-casual or casual attire. And a shawl-collared coach’s sweater, with its short placket neck opening and plaited leather buttons, provides an interesting casual top for cords, khakis, and jeans alike. You don’t even have to buy a sweater to get into knitwear this season. Several shirtjackets, for example, are being presented with felted wool bodies and attached knit sleeves. In other instances, varsity, baseball, and other blouson jackets might come equipped with a small stand-up knit collar, as well as knit cuffs and a knitted waistband.
The pick of the
Today’s knitwear comes in all shapes and sizes — giving you plenty of warm options when the weather turns this autumn. 40
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Photo Courtesy of KINROSS CASHMERE
AURI - The American brand, designed and styled as a contemporary collection of men’s premium footwear. Supple Italian leathers finish the dress collection with fine details and soft interiors that wrap the foot in comfort while casual styles embody a sporty feel with premium materials. Within each pattern, Auri patented technology features provide cushioning in the forefoot and heel of the foot with dual density footbeds providing the ultimate luxury of comfort.
sweater weather Arguably, this autumn’s strongest, not to mention most versatile, knit garment is the turtleneck. A straight-forward sweater with a simple fold-over neck, the turtleneck can come in a gauge so fine it rivals woven cotton and thus might be worn in place of a cotton shirt, with a good pair of dress trousers and an elegant sportscoat. At medium weight, it sits easily under an open-necked woven shirt in more informal ensembles. And for true weather defiance, worn either on its own or over another knit, a proper fisherman’s turtleneck with its heavy, thick gauge uses its lofty fiber to sneer at the wind’s bitterness and its natural retention of animal oils to shrug off the wet. The latter, like the majority of our sweaters, is specifically made from sheep’s wool. Yet many of today’s designers recommend we raise our sights higher to the more deluxe options of knitted cashmere and mohair. Cashmere, rendered from the hair of Kashmiri goats, offers a softer hand than wool and can keep you as warm with less loft. This makes it perfect for dressier cardigans and pullovers, although it also happens to look great when knit into a pair of rather expensive but certainly chic sweat-pants.
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The same type of physical properties cashmere is renowned for apply to mohair; however, its distinct, fuzzy-furry appearance means it is best knitted into casual pullovers, where it assuredly can be expected to dominate the rest of one’s attire. Mohair, by the way, is not obtained from the elusive “mo” but rather is a corruption of the Arabic word mukhyyar, which loosely translates into “that’s some pretty choice material you got there, buddy.” The fiber itself comes from the Angora goat, and this has led to its sometimes being mistakenly labelled “angora,” which (as those of us in the know are well aware) should be used rather to identify fibers made from Angora rabbit fur. Whether you prefer mohair, cashmere, wool, or angora, consider following the same knitwear precept as today’s designers. When opting for patterned sweaters, get something that features horizontal striping running across its entire body — say, a thick-striped pullover or a Fair Isle sweater vest with its recurrent whimsical symbols or even, à la Charlie Brown, a round-necked knit with a single, fat stripe running across its chest. With today’s silhouettes showing so slim and vertical, a little sideways action like this really helps to balance things out.
Photo Courtesy of BRAX
skin sense
Everyday Protection for the skin you’re in J. Paul is a developer of advanced shaving and skin-care products designed exclusively for men. Our full line — Scrub Preshave, Glide Shave Cream, Ice Aftershave, Guard Face & Body Lotion, and Wash Body Wash — is developed from carefully selected ingredients and is specifically aimed at addressing men’s daily grooming and skin-care needs. J. Paul understands the skin-care needs of the “everyday guy” because J. Paul was created by every day guys who have been through the daily grind of having to maintain their appearance through rituals that can be tiresome, unpleasant and even painful. J. Paul recognizes that men want to spend as little time as possible grooming in front of the mirror; you’re busy and you have things to do. In addition, most of us have no idea how skin-care products work because the cosmetic and skin-care industry do such a poor job of marketing and explaining to men how they work and what type of skin-care products we should be using. Unfortunately, the products that most of us do use are nothing more than cheap detergents, soaps and chemicals that lack essential ingredients that are needed to help fortify and protect SCRUB your skin. For these reasons, J. Paul has devoted itself to developing revolutionary products for men and to educating and informing men of the things that we A S U P E R I O R S H AV I N G E X P E R I E N C E should be doing to better protect our skin. We have IN FOUR SIMPLE STEPS designed some of our products to be multi-functional and that can address several skin-care needs GLIDE all in one. There are no difficult steps to follow and no 10-step processes and complex rituals in using our products. Simply, we have focused on developing our products with a mixture of some of the finest ingredients available today. All of J. Paul products come with ingredients that help protect and moisturize your skin to give ICE you fresher looking and healthier skin. Our use of jojoba, aloe vera, vitamin E, fine oils and other carefully selected ingredients help your skin with problems associated with irritation and dryness, nicks and cuts and chapped skin. These ingredients help penetrate deep beneath the skin to help damaged skin cells, reduce wrinkles and fine lines, and GUARD produce healthier looking skin. FINISHED WITH A COOL J. Paul’s flagship product, Glide Shave Cream, BODY CLEANSE was developed to work alone, or in conjunction with Scrub Preshave and Ice aftershave to simplify the daily, mundane shaving ritual and alleviate the common issues of burning, irritated and dry skin that so many of us have dealt with from the moment we picked up our first razor. At J. Paul, we proudly stand behind our full line of innovative shaving solutions and skin-care needs, and we hope SKIN CARE FOR MEN you enjoy all that they have to offer. sophisticated simplicity
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Champagne Taste, Tiny bubbles titillate. There's something mesmerizing about watching liquid confetti flood a tall fluted glass. It's hard to describe, but sensual comes close. Inexpensive sparklers double the effect, with the added rush of bargainship completing the moment. And now, thanks to the growing popularity of bubblies in other countries and the recession, deals on quality juice are more prevalent. Even French champagne prices have dipped to relatively affordable levels but fierce competition from Spainish, Italian U.S. and French non-champagnes has arisen. So perhaps it's difficult to argue that the real French thing is the best for the money. The main difference between some sparkling wines and champagne begins with how the carbon dioxide bubbles are birthed. All fizzy wines experience two fermentations: one to ferment the grapes to produce wine and another to create the fun badabing. Besides the cost of the fruit, the price of bubbly often hinges on the second fermentation: Méthode Champenoise or not? By law, all French Champagnes and Spanish Cavas are required to travel this avenue. Méthode Champenoise (“made in the method of Champagne”) involves pouring regular “still” wine into the heavier, Champagne-style bottle and then adding yeast and sugar to create carbon dioxide for the bubbles. The whole process occurs in the same bottle that ends up on your table. Time-consuming and expensive, these wines will be slightly pricier. The label will read Méthode Champenoise or “Fermented in the Bottle” if the winemaker used this traditional process. The other second fermentation approach, called “Charmat” — or a decidedly unromantic moniker, “tank method” — involves adding yeast and sugar to a vat of wine and covering it tightly, thus mimicking the traditional environment for the second fermentation. Italy’s Prosecco is made in this fashion, creating a fruitier, softer sparkling wine with fewer bubbles. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t delicious. They’ve come a long way with Prosecco in the past several years, and the Italians might have even shucked their woeful Asti Spumante reputation. Prosecco is both the name of a perfumey grape as well as the sparkling wine. Shopping by producer name, DOC or DOCG status (listed on the label), or specific region is imperative. The best Prosecco grapes grow in the Veneto in northeastern Italy, in a designated region called Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, but there are millions of questionable quality bottles bearing the Prosecco name. Look for that region and you'll be golden.
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food & drink Cava, named after the caves in which this sparkling wine is stored, is Spain's thankfully inexpensive solution to champagne. Cava’s flavor can be earthier and a bit stronger, because they use indigenous Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarello grapes and on occasion the traditional French grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Tightly regulated under Spanish wine laws, Cava is principally produced in the Penedés region in northeast Spain. Legend says a French monk named Dom Perignon discovered the champagne process hundreds of years ago, and France has been controlling the name ever since. The designation champagne can only grace wine hailing from its namesake region, although plenty of U.S. wineries have hijacked the term, Korbel Chardonnay Champagne being one of them. And the French are not only territorial with other countries using their name — outside this region, the French must call sparkling wines crémant. To be fair, genericizing the term champagne — á la kleenex — is commonplace, but the Champenoise do merit bragging rights; their bubbly possesses a distinct, minerally flavor profile unattainable from other regions. If you can afford it, go for it. A few pointers for your sparkling wine enjoyment: (1) American and French labels list the sweetness levels of their juice (from driest to sweetest: Brut, Extra Dry or Demi Sec). (2) Non-Vintage (NV) indicates that a blend of juice from two or more years was used, a very common practice in sparkling wines. Winemakers sometimes “declare a vintage” when they feel the wine is exceptional. But beware: it frequently adds mucho dollars to the cost, but not necessarily enjoyment. (3) The best way to chill sparkling wine is to place the bottle in a bucket filled with half-water, half-ice, and a handful of salt. It only takes about 20 minutes. (4) A higher quality sparkling wine will have smaller bubbles that flow up from the bottom of the glass. (5) In the unlikely event that you have leftover bubbly, you don’t have to own a fancy pressurized stopper. Storing the bottle upright in your refrigerator will help preserve the beloved fizz. Taylor Eason, the former wine critic at the Creative Loafing newspapers, blogs about all things alcohol at tayloreason.com.
Under $20 Segura Viudas Aria Extra Brut Poema Prosecco Martini Prosecco Llopart Cava Rose Zonin Prosecco Domaine Ste Michelle Blanc de Blanc Brut Batasiolo Moscato d’Asti Korbel Chardonnay Champagne Mionetto Prosecco Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco Ca' Montini Prosecco
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$20 – $30 Domaine Carneros 2006 Brut Gruet Brut Rose Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Roederer Estate Brut Mumm Napa Brut Prestige Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace J Vineyards Brut Rose Domaine Chandon California Rosé
$30 – $60 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs 2007 Brut Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2007 Brut Taittinger Prestige Rose Champagne Duval Leroy Rose Champagne Paul Goerg Tradition Champagne
healthy b y
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M.S. L.D./N.
a kiss for More than one hundred and fifty years ago, some clever chocolati-
Montezuma’s Secret
er came up with the idea of packing chocolates in heart-shaped
Chocolate also helps reduce inflammation, which helps prevent all
boxes for Valentine’s Day. The idea caught on and February 14th
kinds of diseases and just generally slows down the aging process.
has been associated with chocolate ever since. And now scientists
Not for nothing did Montezuma drink a dozen cups of cocoa to
are telling us that chocolate may be as good for your heart health
bolster his stamina before visiting his harem!
as it is for your love life. I even came across some research showing that eating chocolate on What do spinach, sardines, oat bran, and dark chocolate have in
a regular basis can improve the texture and structure of your skin!
common? They’re all touted as ways to make your heart healthier.
And if all of that weren’t enough, chocolate contains compounds
Funny how most people find it easier to eat more chocolate than
that make you feel happier, but you didn’t need researchers to tell
to eat more sardines.
you that, did you?
Well, we do what we can. And, the truth is, chocolate really does
Most of the health benefits of chocolate are provided by com-
have some good stuff in it. Studies have found that eating choco-
pounds called flavanols, which are found in the nonfat cocoa solids
late can lower your blood pressure and your cholesterol, which of
— that’s the part of the bean left over when you take out all the
course is good for your heart health. But that’s not all.
cocoa butter. Dark chocolate generally contains a lot more cocoa solids than milk chocolate, which is why — as a general rule —
Compounds in chocolate can increase your insulin sensitivity,
dark chocolate is considered to be healthier: you’re getting a more
which improves your body’s ability to regulate your blood sugar
concentrated dose of flavanols. I say “as a general rule” because the
and can help prevent Type 2 diabetes. They also improve blood
amount of cocoa solids isn’t a perfect way to judge the flavanol
flow to the brain, which can make you smarter, or at least helps
content. Processing can destroy flavanols, and the type of cocoa
you hang onto the smarts you have, as you get older.
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deliciously healthy
bean and the region in which it was grown also make a difference.
want to eat an ounce of chocolate every day (for medicinal pur-
Still, most dark chocolate will have a decent amount of these ben-
poses only, of course), you'll want to cut something else out, such
eficial compounds.
as that second glass of wine with dinner or the scoop of frozen yogurt afterward. After all, gaining 10 pounds will quickly undo
However, this is not license to start eating a pound of dark choco-
any health benefits you might be getting from chocolate.
late a day. In addition to all those healthy flavanols, chocolate also generally contains a good amount of sugar, fat, and calories. For all
Monica Reinagel is creator of the Nutrition Diva podcast and a frequent
its benefits, chocolate — even dark chocolate — is a healthy food
contributor to leading health and lifestyle websites and magazines. Her
that you need to enjoy in moderation.
books include Amazon bestseller The Inflammation Free Diet Plan, as well as The Life Extension Revolution: The New Science of Growing Older without
Researchers estimate that eating just an ounce of dark chocolate
Aging (with Philip Miller, M.D.).
every day is enough to get some positive benefit. That much dark chocolate will run you somewhere around 200 calories. If you simply add an extra 200 calories a day to your diet, you'll end up gaining weight at the rate of about two pounds a month! So, if you
Chocolate Not Just for Dessert Rather than breaking out a chocolate bar, dig out that can of unsweetened cocoa powder in the back of the cupboard instead. Cocoa powder is low in calories, contains no sugar, and is virtually fat-free. Because it is close to 100% cacao solids, it’s jam packed with flavanols. Try blending a tablespoon of cocoa powder with some soymilk and a frozen banana for a healthy smoothie.
You can also use cocoa powder in savory dishes! Although it might seem strange if you've never had it before, chocolate and chili peppers are a classic combination in Mexican cuisine. Add a few tablespoons of cocoa powder to a batch of chili and you’ll see why. Cocoa powder mixed with ground chilis and other spices makes a fabulous dry rub for steak or pork chops. Just be sure to avoid “dutched” or alkalized cocoa powder, which has less than half the flavanol content of regular cocoa powder. 52
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Made In USA
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We Americans — we love us some underdog. We love our Cinderellas, our dark horses, our long shots. The old warrior pulling one last victory out of his butt. The unknown schmuck who brazens his way into the winner,s circle. The Butler Bulldogs in the NCAA Finals. These archetypes reinforce our nation’s egalitarian ideal: given a little luck, a little pluck, a little bit of grandiose inspiration, anybody can be dancing jubilantly around the ring with his arms up. We recently celebrated Independence Day: the celebration of the triumph of our forefathers, the upstart colonials, ultimate underdogs. The reigning champion thus becomes the villain in the tale — mostly because he or she has a vile history of domination through winning excellence. Like the way people hate the Yankees or the Lakers or the Celtics, I suppose. (Or maybe the way certain people around the globe hate America?) What I want to know is this: What’s so bad about rooting for a winner to keep on winning? LEBRON JAMES
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Give me the overdog every time. Naturally, I have a theory. We Americans love us some underdog because the underdog isn't really expected to win. We can root for him or her or them; in them we see ourselves, like the guy in that NBA apparel commercial who finds himself in a dream on the floor during a professional game with the ball in his hands at the last second and puts up a winning shot. If our underdog wins, we can do the Snoopy dance with him in a downpour of streamers and balloons. And if he loses, well, we never really expected him to win in the first place, did we? We don’t feel so very disappointed. The lesson of the underdog: Everybody can try but few can win. Sometimes you get lucky. Usually you don’t. Beer me. The thing is, you don’t become the perennial favorite without hard work and sacrifice over a long period of time. You have to find the mental fortitude to sustain and improve your effort, to keep pushing, even when you’re in the lead, even when you know that every other person in the race wants to catch up and shred your testicles (or ovaries). The lesson of the overdog: the only person youre really competing against is yourself and your own limitations. Another lesson of the overdog: Once upon a time, he was the underdog. Call it the Use Curve of American Celebrity. One day he can do no wrong. He’s jumping out of the gym, passing like a wizard, presiding over the court like a king. Then something happens. A screw turns a half a revolution too tightly and we decide we've had enough. Too much, even.
Suddenly he’s jumped the shark. (Right, Lebron?) The underdog becomes the overdog. And somehow, mixed in all that delicate psychology of hero worship, something inside the fans changes too. We've loved him so much we start to hate him. Like Britney, Whitney, Mariah, and Madonna. Like Beckham, Kobe, Michael, and Kareem. Like all the celebs we’ve used up over time. The bigger they are, the harder they fall. Lady Gaga’s next, just you watch. Already there are rumblings about the Bieber. He doesn't know it yet, but he's flying straight into the sun. That hairdo of his will spontaneously combust. Only the dead are exempt, their reputations etched in stone. We build them up and then we tear them down; we sour. We take out all our bad feelings and frustrations on these people we don't even know. Somewhere along the way, a line is crossed and we no longer feel happy for a person’s success; we just feel jealous. We feel betrayed. It’s like we love and worship and imbue these celebrities with all this power in our lives and imaginations, and they never even know we exist, let alone share their wealth and power and accomplishment and lifestyles with us, at least not personally. It is unrequited love most pure. So I guess we start to hate them instead, like that cousin who makes it big and won’t even give you the time of day. Screw him. MARIAH
KOBE, GAGA, AND BECKHAM
commentary
Even as we dance on the grave of the 2011 Miami Heat and issue a hearty round of disapproving I-toldyou-sos regarding Whitney Houston’s possible emphysema, Angelina Jolie’s rumored heroin relapse, and Barack Obama’s faulty vision as a commander-inchief, let us not forget how blindly we once worshipped these folks, each for their own unique and unconventional qualities. Turn off the gossip shows and put down the tabloids. Be a doer. Seek to discover how it feels to run at the front of your own race. Be the perennial winner of your own world championship.
Mike Sager has been called “the Beat poet of American journalism.” He is the bestselling author of three collections of nonfiction and one novel. A former Washington Post staff reporter and Rolling Stone contributing editor, he has served for the past thirteen years as a writer at large for Esquire.
Be the overdog. Then see how you feel. 56
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