The Clotherie Fall 2012 Magazine

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M AG A Z I N E “PERFECTING THE ART OF DRESSING WELL SINCE 1969”TM

SOLE OF A REBEL

BREITLING FOR BENTLEY

INTERVIEW WITH DANIEL CRAIG

GOING WITH THE GROWTH

TO DB OR NOT TO DB

LEARN ABOUT NEW SUNS ANNOUNCER: STEVE ALBERT

AUTUMN 2012 & WINTER 2013 • ISSUE 16

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Welcome to the fall 2012/winter 2013 edition of The Clotherie Magazine. As always, we would like to thank each and every one of you, our loyal customers, for your patronage and support.

Hard to believe it’s time once again to welcome the cool breezes of fall and say adieu to the sweltering heat of summer. It seems we just had our summer sales, and now our store is fully stocked again with an absolutely dizzying array of fall color. It is amazing to me that each season a new and unique tone is given off by our designer collections. As the economy rebounds, the attitude was fully employed by a compelling amount of color on runways around the globe from Milan to Paris to London to New York. And yet, black is back and is more acceptable than ever in the boardroom and beyond. The thing about black is it’s such a basic color; a guy simply can’t go wrong if he puts it on.

Neutral in effect, black works with pretty much any hue — and particularly so when set in direct contrast with its opposing neutral, white.

With basic classics swinging back into vogue, several fashion observers have labeled men’s fall/winter 2012 “The Season of the Suit.” But there are only so many dark, two-button, single-breasted dress outfits one can wear. There’s nothing more sartorial than one of our double-breasted models or three-piece suits. When “dressing down” for a more casual look, the rave is unconstructed, soft sport jackets in a variety of colors and fabrications combined with jeans and chinos. Stop in the store soon to see the latest trend.

The Clotherie is proud and excited to announce the grand opening of our two new stores, BONAFIDE GOODS and R & R SURPLUS, at the UNION at Biltmore Fashion Park. Conveniently located directly across from The Clotherie, these innovative concepts inspire a new trend in fashion for the community. Read all about the stores in our “News” section (p. 8) We hope you enjoy our latest issue of The Clotherie Magazine with a variety of articles on fashion, entertainment, travel, and so much more. Catch up on the latest happenings at The Biltmore (p. 7), note upcoming trunk shows (Events p. 6), and learn about our newest Phoenix Suns celebrity, Steve Albert, a new voice for the Suns (p. 10).

A special thanks to all of those who partner with us, locally and abroad, for helping make our magazine possible. We encourage you to do business locally with each of the world-class companies represented in this issue.

We look forward to seeing you in the store soon!

Warmest personal regards, Greg

2 5 0 2 E . C A M E L B AC K R OA D • P H O E N I X , A R I Z O N A 8 5 0 1 6 • T E L : 6 0 2 9 5 6 8 6 0 0 • W W W. T H E C L O T H E R I E . C O M

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Greatest Hits Trend overview runs the gamut from classic suits to deluxe casualwear

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Welcome

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Out & About

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The Clotherie Events

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The Clotherie News

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Al(bert) in the Family

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To DB or Not to DB

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Velvet–Luxe Looks

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Our Interview with Paul McCartney

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Holy Toledo

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Breitling for Bentley

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Going with the Growth

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Menswear Greatest Hits 2012

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The Real James Bond?

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The Sole of a Rebel

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Carried Away

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Waistcoat, Want Not

p20 p46

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief, Publisher Leslie C. Smith • Editorial Director Vence Vida • Production Manager The Clotherie Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com © 2012, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved.

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the real

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james bond?

Our Exclusive Interview with Daniel Craig

of the town

out&about THE CLOTHERIE travels to Florence, Italy for PITTI UOMO It is always an honor for The Clotherie to travel to Florence for the prestigious Pitti Uomo Fashion fair where the latest trends in fashion worldwide can be seen. The international fair expands over four days, promoting the men’s fashion world for clothing and accessories. It is a launching ground for many new projects in men’s fashion. Simply walking the expansive grounds of Pitti Uomo, catching glimpses of brightly clad and flamboyant outfits, is an experience in and of itself. Pitti Uomo always offers a unique inspiration for upcoming seasons of fashion for The Clotherie as we seek new designers and trends.

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Eton designers in Eton booth at Pitti

Entrance to Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy

Mason booth at Pitti

Display of Mason pants at Pitti

LBM jackets at Pitti

Sand booth at Pitti

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Canali’s Peter Schmid with Matt Sargent & Angela Prestinario

CANALI TRUNK SHOW Friday, September 28th and Saturday, September 29th, Peter Schmid of Canali was in attendance to meet and greet our customers who joined us for a special Canali event. Year after year this is one of our most anticipated events and is always well received. We thank you all for continuing to make this event such a huge success!

EVENING OF TRENDS 2012 FASHION SHOW The annual Trends Magazine EVENING OF TRENDS 2012 (formerly Beat the Heat) was held at The Arizona Biltmore Hotel on Saturday, September 29th. With proceeds benefiting the 2012 charities of Family Promise of Greater Phoenix, Florence Crittenton, Greater Phoenix Youth at Risk Foundation, Inc., The Neighborhood Christian Clinic and Southwest Center for HIV/AIDS, the evening was capped off with a Trendsetter Fashion Show highlighting fashions from The Clotherie.

of the town

SPECIAL EVENTS AT THE CLOTHERIE Thursday, November 8th, 2012: GRAND OPENING BONAFIDE GOODS and R & R SURPLUS at UNION (Biltmore Fashion Park) Saturday, November 10th: SPECIAL GUESTS AT BONFIDE GOODS and R & R SURPLUS Meet representatives from Billy Reid at Bonafide Goods Meet R & R Surplus Designers: Andi and Steve Rosenstein at R & R Surplus

UPCOMING TRUNK SHOWS AT THE CLOTHERIE Saturday, October 27th 11 am – 5 pm Eton Trunk Show with Matt Becker Saturday, November 3rd 11 am – 5 pm Nat Nast Trunk Show with Ralph Odenberg Saturday, November 17th 11 am – 5 pm Donald J. Pliner with Jimmy Richman Gardeur Jeans with Kris Kuhn Tulliani Sterling Silver Bracelets and Belts with Remo Tulliani

BONAFIDE GOODS AND R & R SURPLUS COMING TO THE BILTMORE IN NOVEMBER! THE CLOTHERIE is proud to announce the expansion of two new concept stores located in the Union at Biltmore Fashion Park.

Beginning in November 2012, the Biltmore Fashion Park will add a unique mix of local and independent retail shops in a new venue called UNION. Located directly across from THE CLOTHERIE, the 7200-square-foot space will house independent businesses including two unique concepts created by THE CLOTHERIE! BONAFIDE is the city’s first microhaberdasher, a distinctive blend of men’s contemporary sportswear and accessories.

We are excited to introduce the Billy Reid collection, acclaimed winner of the Council of the Fashion Designers of America Award (CFDA) for 2012. Billy Reid is a total collection of sportswear including jackets, sweaters, knits, trousers, shorts, shoes, and outerwear. BONAFIDE GOODS will entice fashion consumers with exclusive up and coming designers. The store will encompass a complete collection with jeans, shirts, jackets and accessories such as watches, jewelry, hats, belts, ties, and bags.

R & R SURPLUS is the original creation of Andi and Steve Rosenstein, a new twist and recreation of their old brand Fitigues. R & R Surplus is designed for comfort, fun, working out, or hanging out…the authentic and genuine designs are crafted with pride in the USA, inspired by the army/navy and sporting good stores of their youth. The theme is simplicity with a flare for fashion and the luxury of comfort. The vintage-inspired collection is perfect to wear any time of day or night! Stop by to see our newest collect of R & R Surplus!

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SPECIAL EVENTS AT BILTMORE FASHION PARK

MOVIES IN THE PARK EVERY FRIDAY…7:30 PM…CENTER LAWN Join us for classic favorites under the stars!

OCTOBER 5: OCTOBER 12: OCTOBER 19: OCTOBER 26: NOVEMBER 2:

Jerry McGuire The Goonies Breakfast at Tiffany’s Psycho Rear Window

NOVEMBER 9: NOVEMBER 16: NOVEMBER 23: NOVEMBER 30: DECEMBER 7: DECEMBER 14:

The Devil Wears Prada Big No Movie Rocky A Christmas Story The Holiday

Movies are shown in their original, unedited format. Alcoholic beverages are not permitted at Movies in the Park.

UNION STORES COMING TO THE BILTMORE Customatic.com brings together years of experience designing and building great architecture, furniture and interior items to create custom pieces for the modern home.

Oils and Olives by Queen Creek Olive Mill will offer its popular branded products. Customers can explore the vast selection of signature extra virgin olive oils, balsamic vinegars, stuffed olives, and tapenades along with bath and body products made with extra virgin olive oil, and a unique selection of other local treasures.

For the People is a modern gift and home accessories store with a focus on functional design. Featuring brands such as Alessi, the store will give customers access to great lifestyle design products and give talented designers an exciting venue to show and sell their work.

Trattoria del Piero will bring to UNION the dedication and passion for good food found at del Piero at the Mill. The restaurant will feature a new menu of sandwiches and salads that includes the famous Kalamata sandwich, as well as tantalizing new offerings and signature cocktails.

Using family recipes, handcrafted extra virgin olive oils and the best local and seasonal ingredients, del Piero has garnered both local and national acclaim and was featured on the Food Network’s “Best Thing I Ever Ate” in 2010.

White House Flowers is an appealing, one-of-a-kind florist offering home accessories, gifts and repurposed and renewed treasures with a casual urban look, as well as traditional European-style furnishings.

Frances & Charlie Newsstand will offer unique, hand-selected gifts including jewelry, candles, paper goods and books, as well as a variety of magazines, newspapers and specialty publications featuring fashion, design, art, living and global news.

The Willows Home and Garden offers simple yet sophisticated home décor items along with apparel and in-home design services. They carry antique objects and a beautiful selection of exclusive lines including: Bella Notte Linens, Italian Vietri table top dishes, Michael Stars t-shirts, CP Shade apparel and a variety of unusual jewelry.

Lilly is a vintage-inspired women's boutique offering the latest fashion apparel, celebrity jewelry lines, chic and unique housewares, distinctive gifts, handbags, accessories and much more.

To learn more about UNION at Biltmore, please visit shopbiltmore.com and become a fan on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ShopBiltmore.

Little Artika, a Biltmore Fashion Park favorite, returns to the center in UNION. Offering cool stuff for small humans from lines like duc duc, muu kids, SkipHop, Nurseryworks and DwellStudio, Little Artika delivers outstanding products for children, newborn and up.

Located in the heart of Phoenix, Biltmore Fashion Park is known as the “crown jewel” of Arizona because of its rich history and unmatched ambiance. The outdoor specialty center serves a diverse customer base, drawing locals and visitors alike. Anchored by Macy’s and the state’s only Saks Fifth Avenue, Biltmore Fashion Park offers a distinctive retail mix including Ralph Lauren, The Clotherie, Cornelia Park, Escada and Hyde Park Jewelers, as well as national brand name stores. The shopping center has evolved into a major dining destination with options including James Beard-award winning chef Christopher Gross’ Christopher’s & Crush Lounge, Seasons 52, True Food Kitchen and Black Chile Mexican Grill.

Macerich is a fully integrated self-managed and self-administered real estate investment trust, which focuses on the acquisition, leasing, management, development and redevelopment of regional malls throughout the United States. Macerich now owns approximately 64 million square feet of gross leaseable area consisting primarily of interests in 63 regional shopping centers. Additional information about Macerich can be obtained at www.macerich.com.

Me Myself & Eye is a sunglass boutique that pushes the boundaries of expectation, self expression and individuality by offering the highest quality of fashion-forward sunglasses, readers and accessories.

Operated by the owners of Sassy Glasses Optical Boutique, Me Myself & Eye offers the same superior customer service as its parent store with a focus on unique sunglasses and readers.

Royal Coffee will open a second location at Biltmore, brewing their popular roasts alongside a selection of fresh pastries.

Smeeks will bring their assortment of sweet treats and toys to UNION, offering the best old-time favorites – from handcrafted lollipops, toffee, caramels and marshmallows to yo-yos and shrinky-dinks.

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of the town

The Clotherie Apparel Collections for Autumn/Winter 2012 .....

THE CLOTHERIE IS HONORED AS A-LIST STORE Esquire Magazine once again honored THE CLOTHERIE as one of the finest men’s specialty stores in the country in the coveted Spring 2012 Big Black Book. Esquire Magazine is renowned for its expertise, knowledge, and advice in men’s fashion for over 75 years. THE CLOTHERIE, celebrating its 44th year, is proud to receive this prestigious award that “salutes the stores that stand the test of time. Stop in and see why we’ve been recognized as one of the nation’s top retail destinations.

THE CLOTHERIE WINS ETON WINDOW CONTEST FOR UNITED STATES! THE CLOTHERIE participated in the Eton Window Contest 2012 with other retailers across the country that carried the exclusive product. After designing the most creative and innovative window, THE CLOTHERIE was voted one of four National winners for 2012.

CHECK IT OUT VISIT OURWEBSITE www.theclotherie.com for the latest CLOTHERIE news, blog, fashion updates, magazine, and so much more!

The Clotherie online store at www.theclotherie.com/online-shop which features a wide selection of shirts, trousers, shoes, accessories and more from your favorite designers...new fashions and exclusive vendors including Alberto, Culturata, Donald Pliner, Eton, Gardeur, J. Paul Skincare and more.

Thanks to all of our FACEBOOK Friends! Pass the word to friends and family so we can continue to grow...catch up on Clotherie news, link to the Online Shop, and so much more!

Continue to join us on FACEBOOK or follow us on TWITTER.

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AG Adriano Goldschmied Agave Alden Shoes Allegri Outerwear Arnold Zimberg Baade II Bill Lavin Belts Canali Citizens of Humanity Jeans Codice Corneliani Culturata Shirts Donald Pliner Dion Ties Ecco Edward Armah Pocket Rounds Ermenegildo Zegna Eton Eyebobs Gardeur Gendarme Cologne Georg Roth Gravati Shoes Haupt International Laundry Italo Ferretti J. Brand Jeans J. Paul Face Care Jack Lipson Shirts Jack Victor John Smedley LBM 1911 Left Coast Tees Levi’s Made and Crafted Mac Jeans Mason’s Michael Toschi Nat Nast Original Paperback Shorts Pantherella Raffi Robert Comstock Robert Talbott Rufus Sportshirts Samuelsohn Sand Tailor Vintage Thaddeus Think Pens To Boot by Adam Derrick Trussini Tulliani Belts Zanella Zegna Sport Z Zegna

family

Al(bert) in the Family By: Greg Esposito, Suns.com Steve Albert may be new to the Valley and the Suns, but if you spend more than five minutes with him, you feel like you’ve known him for years. His nonchalant attitude, soothing cadence and brilliant ability to tell a story puts a person at ease. So much so that he makes you feel as if you’re long lost friends just catching up on what has happened in life.

The thing that stands out most while talking with Albert, however, is his quick witted sense of humor. With every story he tells, he finds a way to weave in a humorous anecdote or off-thecuff comment like a combination of Harry Doyle and Jerry Seinfeld that leaves you laughing out loud. If you didn’t know better, you’d think he was destined to be a comedian but the fates, or his genetics, had other plans.

Albert’s path to the professional broadcast booth started in his childhood living room. It was a journey that he didn’t take alone.

His two older brothers, Marv and Al, were along for the ride as well.

“When I was very young the three of us would call anything around the house,” Albert recalled with enthusiasm in his voice.

“We would walk around doing play-by-play. We would sit at the dinner table and do play-by-play of the meal. It drove my parents crazy.”

In an attempt to keep their parents sane and gain a little experience, he and his brothers moved their play-by-play booth down the hall.

“We would go off in this little room off to the side of the dining room. There was a TV in there and we’d go in there, shut the door, turn on a baseball game and turn down the sound,” he reminisced. “Then we’d set up a little table in front of the TV, like a broadcast table, and we’d switch off. One would do the play-byplay of the game, the second would run a record player with a record that had the sound of a crowd and the third person would take two big marking pencils from my father’s grocery store and knock them together to simulate the crack of the bat. Then we’d just rotate. We got early experience doing that. Our parents had no idea what was going on behind that door. They thought we lost our minds, but I guess it worked out OK.” It actually worked out more than okay for all three brothers.

Marv would go on to national fame for his play-by-play calls on NBA games on NBC and TNT, and Al would hold broadcast jobs in numerous professional sports leagues. As for Steve, his path was quite unique.

After spending his formative days in that tiny room in Brooklyn, the younger brother would head to Kent State University in 1968 to pursue his dreams. While there, he found himself part of two historic moments.

“I was at Kent State when the shootings took place. A few days after they took place they dispersed the campus,” he said. “I went home to New York from Ohio and a few days later I was on the Knicks’ bench as a ball boy for that Willis Reid moment when he hobbled out on the floor. One of the great moments in NBA history. It was surreal, I went from a terrible tragic moment in American history to one of the most amazing and memorable moments in basketball history. Talk about mind boggling and drama.

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It wasn’t the only time in his life and professional career that he’d find himself at the epicenter of a dramatic situation. As part of his illustrious 24-year career calling boxing, Steve was ringside for one of the most bizarre moments in sports. In 1997 he was the man saddled with the job of describing the grotesque scene of Mike Tyson biting off a portion of Evander Holyfield’s ear.

“To be that close to it – I was ringside calling it – was just something you never forget,” he said of the circus-esque scene that evening in Las Vegas. “I did go back to my hotel room and contemplated quitting, because it was just such a repulsive thing to not only watch but have to describe. It was basically cannibalism.”

After seeing a man-eat-man sporting event, the dog-eat-dog world of broadcasting couldn’t have seemed that cold anymore.

That doesn’t mean he was complacent. As a matter of fact, at the age of 61, he didn’t expect to get another chance in the NBA after having previously called games for the Cavaliers, Nets, Hornets and Warriors.

“I had almost given up on the notion of getting back in the league,” he said providing an honest assessment of his career. “I had been doing boxing for 24 years with Showtime. I was knocking on the door of some teams the last few years and for whatever reason it didn’t materialize. Sometimes the stars are aligned correctly and it just works out. That’s what happened with Phoenix. It’s one of those things you can’t explain.”

Despite getting a second chance, Albert remains quite humble about his new job as the Suns’ television play-by-play announcer.

He has a great deal of respect for the history of the franchise, and especially for the man who has provided the soundtrack for many of the team’s most memorable moments.

“Being an aficionado of broadcasting and the NBA for the many years, I know there is only and there will always only be one voice of the Phoenix Suns,” he said. “That of course is the ‘Real McCoy,’ Al McCoy. I was just happy to join the team.”

That doesn’t mean Albert won’t be able to add his own unique tone and perspective.

“I’m just happy to be back in a sport where I don’t have to cover up my drinks, because of the possibility of splattered blood,” he said of his return to the NBA from boxing. “Unless of course Al, sitting in front of me, cuts himself shaving (laughs).

Then I have problems.”

Like we said, he’s got impeccable comedic timing and the ability to make you feel like you’ve known him for years. Don’t take our word for it. Experience it yourself by welcoming him into your living room on FOX Sports Arizona broadcasts this year.

You bring the record player and table, he’ll bring the voice and the entertainment.

The Clotherie is happy to welcome Steve to the Phoenix Suns and is proud to be wardrobing him for the upcoming season.

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good

With basic classics swinging back into vogue, several fashion observers have labeled men’s fall/winter 2012 “The Season of the Suit.” But there are only so many dark, two-button, single-breasted dress outfits one can wear, which is why designers these days are also hawking double-breasted models.

A wide variety of dbs floated down the runways, mostly of the four- and six-button kind, and mostly buttoned right up to a modest vee of dress shirt and tie. The look appeared to fit right in with the return to classic men’s clothing, although, oddly enough, it didn’t appear to fit properly. And that’s the rub.

You see, today’s predominantly single-breasted suits have a sleek, nononsense Men in Black sensibility to them that doesn’t apply to the fussier double-breasteds. The db’s horizontal axis across its twin rows of buttons directly opposes the straight vertical line of the slimly shaped single-breasted and thus comes across as not quite of our time. Notso-contemporary, either, are those peaked lapels pointing outward towards the shoulders, that slight pull in at the waistline, and a backflapped flare at the hips, which give the suggestion of an hourglass figure.

But all these things can be accepted, even celebrated, by men who appreciate sartorial tradition more than any temporary trend dictate.

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800 012200

good

No,

the

biggest

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nothing

fault with the latest

prevent a canny cus-

dbs lies in the modern

tomer from ordering

jacket’s

shrunken

his double-breasteds

“hipster”

hemline,

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in-store

which, while arguably

made-to-measure

passable on a single-

program. In fact, this

breasted suit, throws

action has much to

off the entire propor-

recommend it.

tion of a doublebreasted

One can also in-

ensemble.

dulge a taste for twin-

Strange how just raising that hem an inch or two contrives to

buttoning without getting into a suit, and here, this season’s

make the jacket front look overly busy, with its cramped place-

designers have been rather helpful. There are plenty of double-

ment of flapped pockets and multiple buttons. As well, the jack-

breasted tailored worsted vests, knit vests and cardigans to indulge

et’s cropping allows one to see more of the trousers than would

in — plus a slew of double-breasted overcoats, greatcoats, duffle

be normal, subjecting the delicate balancing act between suit top

coats, and pea jackets crowding onto the market.

and bottom to a jarring aesthetic knock.

You might even like to try one of the new db “sportscoats.”

Despite this style’s being championed by designers and a few

Made from superfine fabrics and lightly constructed, these jackets

men’s fashion magazines, most retailers have a pretty good idea of

bridge the divide between dress and casual quite nicely.

what really sells to their customers, and they’re giving most of this

Comfortable to wear and easy to shrug on over layered clothing,

season’s double-breasted suits a miss. But not all. Those models

they offer impeccable good looks without any of the stylistic

that maintain a properly proportioned hemline will be the win-

hang-ups that their more structured cousins can suffer from.

ners, and if this look isn’t available yet via the designer route,

Those models that maintain a properly proportioned hemline will be the winners, and if this look isn’t available yet via the designer route, there’s nothing to prevent a canny customer from ordering his double-breasteds from an in-store made-to-measure program.

In fact, this action has much to recommend it.

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Earnhardt

SCOTTSDALE LEXUS INTRODUCING THE ALL-NEW 2013 GS MODEL LINE Introducing the new face of Lexus. Where multiple performance-driving modes and a commanding seating position invigorate you. Bold lines, sequential ambient lighting and an accommodating interior welcome you. Where available industry-leading technology keeps you connected like never before. And Premium and Luxury Packages surround you with our finest materials and innovations. Available in multiple versions, including all-wheel drive, Hybrid and F SPORT, the GS model line doesn’t just raise the bar. It sets a new one altogether.

Designed by Lexus.

TAILORED BY YOU GS 350

GS 350 F SPORT

GS 450h

Experience a bold step forward in performance, technology and design. Available with Premium and Luxury Packages, the all-new GS features exceptional agility, performance driving modes and offers seamless connectivity to your favorite mobile apps. All with an assortment of leather and wood trims to make the interior all your own. And, for even more personalized comfort, the Luxury Package features amenities like 18-way power front seats and rear-seat climate and audio controls.

Taking the exhilarating performance of the GS to the next level, the GS F SPORT connects you to the road like never before. Among its upgrades, it boasts an even more aggressive Sport S+ driving mode, a specially tuned sport suspension, staggered-width 19-in wheels (RWD),1 and an available Lexus Dynamic Handling system with Dynamic Rear Steering (DRS). It also features a variety of exclusive design elements, including a more aggressive front fascia and a 16-way Sport driver’s seat with power side bolsters.

Equipped with the Premium or available Luxury Package, the GS Hybrid defies compromise and convention.

In addition to dynamic performance features like paddle shifters and new Sport driving modes, you’ll find world’s firsts like an available bamboo-trimmed steering wheel and a port- and direct-injected Atkinson-cycle engine that delivers a 34 mpg (hwy) 2 rating and acceleration that will be the envy of your V8-driving friends.

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And Other Classic Luxury Stories

A season so basic in shape, so starkly dark as this one has turned out to be begs for other methods of sensual stimulation. Deluxe materials can speak volumes.

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Aesop’s Sables

Grimm’s Hairy Tales

Pat the Money

Fur gives us an easy way to add dimension and tonal variety to our outdoor wardrobes. This season’s pelt picks include shaggy coyote-trimmed hoods on quilted parkas and lapels trimmed with mink, sable or marten on every other type of outerwear up to and including leather motorcycle jackets.

If fur’s not your thing, get yourself some mouton – which is a fancy way of saying “sheep’s wool.” This off-white, hairy material also decorates a slew of outerwear lapels, as well as being turned skin-sideout and made into a jacket on its own.

Process the hair a bit more, dye it darker, and you’ve got boiled wool, a faux mouton used in the manufacture of many of this season’s nubby, relaxed sport jackets and casual vests.

Speaking of hands, it’s hard to keep one’s off the soft, tactile cashmere and mohair sweaters being presented for fall/winter.

Their rich wooliness usually precludes patterning, so most come solidly shaded in such seasonal favorites as burgundy, olive, rust or camel, although a few do feature chests garnished with a thick band of multi-hued, vaguely Nordic motifs.

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inter view

So how do you follow performing in one of the biggest broadcasts of all time — the half-time of Super Bowl XXXIX? Perhaps the as the closing act of the opening ceremony for the biggest sports event on the globe: the 2012 Olympic games?

And who in all of London could follow the Queen of England parachuting into the arena escorted by none other than James Bond? Only a Beatle, who even at 70 years old can still bring the house down with a live performance of “The End” followed by a sing-along version of “Hey Jude.” E! Online reported it was the most watched opening ceremony in 50 years, with 40.7 million viewers taking it in worldwide. A reported 22.4 million of those viewers were in Britain. No doubt a certain Beatle had at least a little to do with that.

After the show, Sir Paul McCartney tweeted, “Thanks for the great response guys! Tonight was terrific, great, really cool.

It was a trip and very exciting. It was a great opening ceremony! Didn’t realize Her Majesty was such a good parachutist!”

Our Exclusive Interview with

What must it be like to walk in the shoes of such a legend? The answer might surprise you. Since we had the opportunity, we posed the question, and here’s what he told us.

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E D M O N D S

Enlightened.

2013 SL550 It was conceived as a “super light” racecar, and its radical aesthetics are reflected in its exceptional athleticism. The highly rigid yet lightweight aluminum body of the 2013 SL550 writes an exciting new chapter in this legacy of performance – along with noteworthy advances in safety, efficiency and cockpit comfort. From its timeless grille to its tapering LED tail lamps, its sweeping shape and artful details bring every function to fruition in seductive style. With a beauty that radiates from far beneath its sculpted shape, the all-new SL550 reflects not merely its history, but its lifelong goal of making history. Stop in today for a closer look.

Arizona’s original Mercedes-Benz dealership since 1964.

Roger Day Direct: 602-745-5704 email: roger.day@cox.net 225 West Indian School Road • Phoenix, AZ 85013 phoenixmb.com

inter view

If there is such a thing as a typical day, it might start in the local gym. I’ll spend an hour or so splitting the time between running on a treadmill, stretching, or lifting what I’d once have called “girls’ weights”, but I wouldn’t now because that’s sexist. And I’m not telling you how much they weigh; let’s just say they are not challenging. I’ll end with a headstand. After 50 years I’m still performing on stage — playing and singing pretty much nonstop for three hours at a time — and I’ve realised I’ve got to keep fit, keep going, because I am getting older.

My wife, Nancy, tends to prepare breakfast. She makes a mean cereal, you know...not granola, but it’s healthy enough. Then it’s down to work, one way or another, preparing, recording... I’m not a workaholic, but I do have a strong work ethic. When we were in the Beatles, I was the one who always wanted to make a record. I had fewer distractions than the others, as they were all married and bringing up kids in the suburbs. I was single — well, for most of the time, before I married Linda — and living in the city, going to exhibitions, concerts, and stuff. So it would be me ringing up, saying: “Come on, guys, time we made a record.”

The work ethic hasn’t changed, but other things have made a difference to the pattern of my life. The main thing is that after my divorce I have a joint-custody arrangement. I’m luckier than many divorced fathers because I have half the time with my youngest, Beatrice. I had a word with my promoter, and said: “From now on I’m only going to be able to work here, here, and here.” So instead

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Paul McCartney of long, gruelling tours, we do more hand-picked events. And that means the dates can actually be more enjoyable, and we’re always hungry to play. I much prefer it. You’ll have a little time to look around the place too. We were in Bologna not long ago and it was really nice to be able to see a city I didn’t know. I’m sometimes bothered by people when I’m out, but there are places where I can just melt away. I made a decision long ago, when the Beatles thing was clearly building. I said to myself: “Look, you either give up now or you keep going and you just better get used to it.” So I’ve learnt to live with it.

It’s great having a small child again. I’ve always loved children.

I have five kids and eight grandchildren — all very Italian. I often do the school run. I gossip with the mums at the school — and dads as well, by the way. Quite a few come these days. At school I’m just another dad. When I first went there, the head said: “Let’s just see if you can blend in.” In the playground I don’t talk like I’m a big shot. I talk about the next school trip or homework or the next swimming gala. People aren’t stupid; they get it.

In the studio I’ll probably start about 11a.m. I’ve always preferred recording during the day. For the new album I worked with the producer Tommy Lipuma at Capitol Studios in L.A. We had these lesser-known songs and we kept it intimate, a small jazzcombo thing. The album took about two months to record. On an office day I’ll get in about midday, probably start with my PA, and

then have meetings. It could be with the guys from Apple, the Beatles organisation, bringing me up to date on Beatles projects. It might be to do with charity work. I do get lots of letters and requests for autographs. My PA suggests things I might do, and it all gets selected down.

I don’t really use email or the internet. I prefer to travel light, so I have a slim mobile phone, and I can text, make phone calls, and send photographs. All I use a computer for is music. Otherwise, I tend to avoid it. I’d rather walk in the real world than look at the countryside in a virtual world. In my studio I use an Apple Mac for composing orchestral music. It’s quite a nice thing, with a big screen, and I use a program — very simple — called Cubase. It’s addictive; I can sit there for hours. For writing songs, I use my old method — just a guitar with a pencil and paper. I try to get away from people a little bit to a space where I’m kind of on my own. A few hours thrashing at it, then I just give in, and I’ve either won or lost. If I’ve lost, I’ll attack it another day. There’s always another day.

In the evenings, Nancy and I might go the theatre and to dinner with relatives or friends, or we might stay home and watch TV. My evenings are pretty much the same as anyone’s. I go to bed around midnight. I’ve always slept well — and no, I don’t wake up the next morning thinking how famous I am. I wake up feeling extremely ordinary.

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to spain

Holy Toledo From the dusty terrace by the Museo El Greco, I peer down steep slopes past 10th century Arab baths into the green gorge of the River Tagus, winding a cool watery coil around Toledo’s honey-stoned medieval walls. Hungry for even grander views, I climb the nearby belltower of the serene Church of San Ildefonso to be rewarded with the interplay between Spain’s premier cathedral and the massive Alcazar fortress across a sweep of ochre rooftops.

Set on hills rising from the arid plains of Don Quixote’s La Mancha, Toledo stands tall in Iberian history. Seat of the Spanish court until its 16th century move to more open spaces in Madrid, the city’s filigree of cobbled lanes have bustled with Romans, Visigoths, Jews, Arabs, and Christians for over two millennia.

After recapture from the Moors in 1085, Toledo remained a unique cultural melting pot where scholars flocked to study rare Arab and Hebrew texts, and buildings like the 12th century Santa Maria la Blanca appeared, a gorgeous pale-stoned assem-

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blage constructed at Christian command by Islamic architects for Jewish use. I learn more about Toledo’s Jewish heritage at the Museo Sefardi in the 14th century El Transito synagogue, its old prayer hall a dazzling mix of mud jar tiling and Hebrew carving.

The open-minded Toledanos also welcomed the painter El Greco when his ethereal style saw him shunned elsewhere.

After eyeballing myriad masterpieces at the dedicated museum set in a beautiful traditional house (though not, as some claim, his old house), I set off to find other works scattered around the town in buildings as gorgeous as the art.

At the 16th-century hospice now the Museo Santa Cruz, El Grecos jostle with modern sculpture, medieval furniture and Roman mementoes, while “The Greek” shares wall space with Titian and Tintoretto alongside fabulous tapestry and ceramics at another 16th century beauty, the Hospital de Tavera — a perfect Sunday morning cultural outing I combine with a stroll in the adjacent Parque de la Vega and delicious churros (fried doughnut sticks) in the cheery park cafe.

to spain

In the vast gothic cathedral, I’m beguiled by carved pews adorned with supernatural beasts along with rich displays in the sacristy before heading for the Alcazar’s army museum inside the oft-battered fortress, rebuilt several times since 10th century Moorish beginnings, most recently after Franco’s brutal 1936 siege. It’s an unexpected treasure trove — historical photography, ethnographic wonders gathered from Africa, Japan, and the Pacific, plus dazzling weaponry, uniforms, and other militaria back to pre-Roman times.

I retreat to Circulo de Arte (Calle San Vicente), where contemporary Toledano painting covers two walls of an arts venue carved from a historic brick-lined temple. The previous night I’d heard a rock act strut their stuff here. Sipping a Domus, Toledo’s local dark brew, I toast a town far more than just Greco to me.

THE INSIDE TRACK

THE BEST HOTELS

Toledo’s famed Easter celebrations see white-hooded worshippers take over the streets, “Like a beautiful funeral,” says one local.

Cigarrales are old aristocrat houses-turned-hotels dotting the hills across from the old city, characterful upmarket options for those with a car or willingness to shuttle back-and-forth by taxi.

Get a grand view for free from the public library on the Alcazar’s top floor.

Dar Al Chai (Plaza Barrionuevo 5) is a fabulous teashop full of Moorish flourishes and boisterous locals.

Some museums have free entry on Sunday morning, including the Alcazar and Museo El Greco.

Posada de Monolo The individually named rooms reflect Toledo’s Arabic, Jewish, and Christian heritage, and Los Curtidores has its own tiny courtyard.

Great views from the breakfast room. (0034 925 28 22 50; www.laposadademanolo.com; doubles from 66).

Hacienda del Cardenal This 18th century former cardinal’s pavilion oozes historic charm, wrapped around a garden courtyard near the Alfonso VI city gate.

The restaurant offers one of Toledo’s prettiest settings. (0034 925 22 49 00; www.haciendadelcardenal.com; doubles from 83) Hotel Palacio Eugenia de Montijo Once home to an empress, the only 5-star hotel within the city walls also boasts a spa integrating ancient Roman and Moorish elements. (0034 925 27 46 90; www.fontecruzhoteles.com; doubles from 119)

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THE BEST RESTAURANTS Ludena Step through the curtains of this tiny bar/diner to try carcamusa, the spicy Toledano meat, pea, and tomato stew reputedly invented here in the 1950s. (Plaza de la Magdalena 10; 00 34 925 22 33 84; Daily 10.30a.m.–4p.m., 7:30–11:30p.m.)

Restaurant Palacios Charmingly old-fashioned, with daily menus ( 11-19) including stonking bowls of white beans with partridge and richly flavoured venison. (Calle Alfonso X El Sabio 4; 00 34 925 22 3497; Daily 12–4p.m., Mon–Sat 7-11p.m.)

El Palacete Gorgeously set within a 1,000-year-old Islamic palace, the restaurant mixes expertly-cooked Toledano classics (partridge, venison, suckling pig) with Asian-influenced seafood (tuna with three textures). (Calle Soledad 2, 0034 925 22 53 75; www.restauranteelpalacete.com; Daily 1.30–4p.m., 8.30–11.30p.m., closed Sun/Mon evening)

GETTING THERE Fly to Madrid’s Baraja airport and then take a taxi or the metro to Atocha station for trains to Toledo (35 minutes), single from 8.50 Euro. If driving from the airport, Toledo is 50 miles. Unless you have nerves of steel, avoid driving into the narrow streets of the walled old town; large car parks are arranged around the historic centre.

DID YOU KNOW? Don Quixote author Miguel de Cervantes regularly visited Toledo and in the legendary novel credits the discovery of his character’s history to Arabic texts he sees here.

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performance

A super-watch tribute to a world record-setting super-car

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The Bentley Continental Supersports car is the fastest and most powerful car ever made by the British manufacturer, and holder of the world ice speed record. The world ice speed record was set in 2011 by Finland’s fourtime world rally champion Juha Kankkunen in a Bentley Continental Supersports convertible. Driving the allwheel drive, biofuel-powered 6-liter, 12-cylinder Continental Supersports convertible on the perilous frozen Baltic Sea, off the coast of Finland, Kankkunen achieved a speed of 205.48 mph (330.695 km/h). He beat his own ice speed record of 199.83 mph (321.6 km/h) set in 2007 in the Bentley Continental GT. The Supersports Ice Speed Record convertible model is limited to just 100 cars worldwide. (Check it out on Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qwe96Knr6-Y).

The Breitling For Bentley Supersports Chronograph is a dashing tribute to this world-class super-car that is equally built for outstanding feats and performances. The super-chronograph watch has a “dashboard-style” dial, inspired by the Bentley and enlivened by blue, orange or white-ringed counters and inner bezels that match the colors on the rims of the Bentley Supersports cars. The bezel is adorned with the knurled motif typical of Bentley dashboard controls.

Inside its sporty, elegant case, the Breitling for Bentley Supersports limited series houses a selfwinding chronograph movement made by Breitling, the Caliber 26B. It is chronometer-certified by COSC (the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), which means it is highly accurate and reliable.

The watch is equipped with an original and extremely practical

touch of color reflects the red background of the Bentley emblem

central 60-minute counter, a 1/4th-second chronograph, a 12-hour

that sets the Continental GT V8 model apart from other models

totalizer and a calendar function. The rotating bezel activates a

by the British carmaker. The watch features an ingenious multiple

variable tachometer (circular slide rule), an exclusive Breitling fea-

time zone display system. A red triangular-tipped additional hour

ture that measures average speed no matter what the elapsed time,

hand marks the 24 hour index. For setting, the pushpiece housed

distance covered or speed.

in the left side of the case serves to move this hand forward in one-

The case is steel with a screw-locked crown, and the watch is water resistant to 100 meters. The strap is Barenia leather, Bentley leather, crocodile leather or rubber.

hour increments in order to display the second time zone — while distinguishing between day and night hours.

The watch is also a 30-second chronograph, with a sweep sec-

Breitling has also launched a watch in tribute to the Bentley

onds hand making one full turn of the dial in half a minute, thus

GMT V8. The signature feature of the Breitling for Bentley GMT

enabling readings accurate to the nearest 1/8th of a second. The

Chronograph is the mobile inner city bezel, distinguished by a

movement is the Breitling caliber 47B, officially chronometer-cer-

metallic red color that contrasts with the black dial. This vivid

tified by the COSC. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

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style

Tempted to try out today’s stubble look?

Here are some bristly pros and cons to ponder.

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One might say that those who do not remember the original Miami Vice television show (1984–1990) are doomed to repeat it. That marked the previous time stubble trimmers — an appliance calibrated midway between a beard trimmer and a regular electric razor — appeared on the market. Then, stalwart Don Johnson’s roughly textured jaw was all the rage; now we have His Royal Scruffiness, Hugh Laurie of House (2004–2012) to thank for reanimating the trend towards facial hirsutism.

Atelier Gardeur…

Creating great trousers and jeans.

It’s an art.

style

It seems not an award show goes by these days without the majority of male celebs sporting a threeday growth. A recent university study has indicated that most women find the look sexy — at least on male celebs. So, should you or shouldn’t you?

Allow us to pose the arguments for and against:

You don’t have to shave so often. In fact, one of the best ways of doing designer stubble is to only shave every three to five days.

You do have to shave as often — and maybe even more. Those prone to five o’clock shadow will just find themselves shaving the night before, as opposed to the morning of. Then there’s the tricky business of shaving away stray cheek hairs and carefully fading out the neck hairs so they don’t meet up with the chest hairs in one big, awkward, Chia Pet moment.

Like we just said, most women said they find the look sexy.’Nuff said.

Most women don’t appear to be thinking about the unsexy, disfiguring effects of morning-after beard burn on themselves.

Slight stubble, especially if it’s dark, tends to accentuate the attractive planes and angles of the male face.

If your normal growth is patchy, your beard is a weird color, or you’ve a moon face without any planes and angles, then you cannot — repeat, cannot — rock this look.

All the guys are doing it.

Remember big sideburns? Mullets? Goatees?

If all the guys were jumping off a bridge…

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trend

The Sartorial Look Classic suits — British in background, Italian in lightweight fabric and streamlined tailoring — are the crux of this season’s overall appearance. Black suits lead the way, with charcoal gray, quiet glen plaids, and pencil stripes following at a discreet distance. The slim silhouette, built close to the body, with a relatively high button stance and narrowed lapels, is now firmly entrenched in our wardrobes and will prove this decade’s defining mode.

Narrower dress shirt collars and ties go under this; well-tailored overcoats go on top.

Knit Picks

greatest hits fall/winter 2012

High-rising turtlenecks are being shown with everything from a three-piece suit to dark indigo jeans topped by an outerwear piece or easy-fitting sportscoat. In casual attire, finegauge knits allow for multiple layering; conversely, thick-cabled sweaters and cushy cashmere or mohair knits provide enough warmth enough to be worn on their own.

Trend overview runs the gamut from classic suits to deluxe casualwear Photos Courtesy of Ravazzolo

Color Wheel White and camel provide the main contrast to predominately black-shaded dress and casual clothing, but furnishings can also come in such dark, dense reds as burgundy, oxblood, and rust, and occasionally flare up into a brighter hue — cobalt blue, teal, orange or tomato red — for a little visual relief.

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trend

The Outer Limits There’s plenty of toppers on tap for fall/winter: quilted down parkas and puffer vests, black leather motorcycle jackets, pea coats, short trenches and duffle coats. Yet the real money may well be on the full-length greatcoat of British military renown — a great way to indulge one’s desire for double-breasted buttoning during this time when single-breasted suits are holding sway.

Going Downton Belted Norfolk sportcoats with envelope or flapand-patch pockets in country plaids and gun club checks, grey flannels, lapelled vests, cuffs on narrowed trousers legs, shawlcollar cardigans, velvet jackets, fur-collared overcoats — there’s a definite Edwardian sensibility to this season, directly attributable to the popularity of the British TV show Downton Abbey, which is set in the same era. A nifty little offshoot of this trend is the fact that rubber galoshes can be viewed as period pieces along the same lines, so you now can stay in style while your feet stay dry this season.

The Boys of Winter Various takes (winterized, of course) on our old buddy, the baseball jacket, appeared on this season’s runways, along with several raglan-sleeved knit shirts suspiciously reminiscent of baseball jerseys. Then there were all those baseball caps made from dark-shaded suede or even suiting fabrics. As designer pitches go, this one has home run written all over it.

Photos Courtesy of Ravazzolo

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007 i n t e r v i e w

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S T E V E N W E I N T R AU B

Interview with

the real james bond?

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D A N I E L

C R A I G

On Sunday afternoon, in Istanbul, Turkey, I got my interview with Daniel Craig and producer Barbara Broccoli.

Since Craig had to get back to set to film part of an action sequence on Skyfall, we had limited time. However, even though Craig and Broccoli were guarded about giving away any of the twists and turns, they still talked about the strength of the script, the humor, how the upcoming teaser trailer only scratches the surface of what Skyfall is about, the stunts, invoking the wit of Ian Fleming, whether Bond 24 is really coming in 2014, and a lot more.

Some of us saw the teaser trailer at CinemaCon last week and it has a great dark, serious tone.

Can you talk about what you guys are going for with Skyfall?

Daniel Craig: The teaser’s just that, a teaser. It represents a very, very small part of the movie. I mean, you know the score. When you’re making a teaser, you want to show part of the movie and leave a lot to be desired, and I personally think we have. I think what the teaser’s done incredibly well is show that there’s an awful lot of content in the movie, but [the footage shown in the teaser] is nothing.

Barbara Broccoli: It’s a lot of fun too. A lot of fun.

james bond

Given that this is the James Bond anniversary, and because you’re shooting the film in Istanbul where two Bond films have been done before — From Russia with Love and The World Is Not Enough — I was wondering whether any part of it’s an homage to the past Bond movies?

Craig: It’s not directly that, but certainly there were conversations with all of us, especially with Sam [Mendes]. Sam felt very strongly that by making the best Bond movie we can, we’re gonna look back a little. You kind of have to do that. But this has an individual look to it, something that I don’t think you’ve seen in any other Bond movie.

Broccoli: It feels like classic Bond, doesn’t it?

Craig: I think so, yes.

Broccoli: It feels like we’re making a very classic Bond, and it’s great to be back here in Istanbul. 49 years ago today, actually, they were shooting here. So it’s a wonderful way to celebrate it.

In Casino Royale you gave Bond a very different personality.

Where will you take him now?

Craig: It’s something I’ve not done myself before, and I thought it’s about time that I showed that part of myself to the world (laughs). Um, wait and see. I mean, really. I’m not going to say that we’ve done something incredibly different here; we’ve done something, I think, that has quality about it. And, like I said, we’ve got a teaser that has a great story that we want to tell. But it is a kind of wait-and-see situation.

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Craig: No, let’s talk about Bognor Regis, please. There’s nothing wrong with Bognor Regis, by the way.

Well I was wondering where you sort of cut back and where you splashed out?

Broccoli: It’s all on the screen. All the money’s on the screen.

Craig: It’s all on the screen. There’s nothing tight about what we’ve done; it’s just that we’ve spent the money in the right places. We’re very fortunate to be able to make movies like this; I mean, not a lot of people get the chance to do it. We want to give an audience as much value for money as we possibly can, and that’s been sort of the key here for all of us.

Sam Mendes has said he would have advised you against taking the Bond role back in the day.

Broccoli: How the worm has turned.

(laughter)

]

Broccoli: Oh come on, we’re here in Istanbul!

Craig: He regrets saying that (laughs).

Craig: Go-go dancer.

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There has been some talk a bit about austerity and there was something about Bognor Regis —

M AG A Z I N E

Craig: Well, not even that, it’s just as soon as he said it in the interview, I said, “You really wanna get involved with this?” Sorry, please go on.

Daniel Craig and co-stars Bérénice Marlohe, Javier Bardem, and Naomi Harris front the latest promotional image for Skyfall, which is the 23rd installment in the long-running spy franchise.

james bond

Are you happy to work with him on this?

You took two movies to learn Bond…

Craig: Very much, very much. It’s been a great relief for me to work with someone like Sam on a movie like this, because there’s an awful lot of pressures from the outside world on a movie like this, but we just crack on with making the best film we can. It’s a joy to do.

Craig: Did I? Take it back! (laughs) I’m still learning.

Can you talk a bit about the humor of the movie?

Craig: The humor’s not something that we’ve tried to do, it’s just that we’ve got a great script. Humor comes out, I think, more of situation than it does out of gag lines. We’ve got some very funny lines in the movie, but who knows how an audience may find them. I remember with Casino, one of the lines we didn’t think was particularly funny, the audience really got a hold of. So I’m just excited about showing it to an audience and showing the dialogue we have and the situations we have, and to see how they react to it. I think there’s some very funny moments. I have a very dark humor though.

Broccoli: Well so did Fleming. It’s very Fleming-y.

It has the wit of Ian Fleming. The acerbic wit.

One of the things I’ve loved about the Bond movies as opposed to other Hollywood action movies is that it’s all about style. Is there a specific stunt from Skyfall that you’re looking forward to realize?

Craig: Yes. There’s a lot, there’s a ton of stuff that we’ve done and style has been the key. Not only just how stunts are created and how they’re designed. We have Gary Powell again, who’s designing the stunts, and Alexander Wit, who’s shooting second-unit on this, who’s an incredibly skilled director but has a real eye for what’s exciting. But style has been really a key through design — production design, costume design, some of the casting.

Broccoli: Oh absolutely, and Roger Deakins who’s the greatest [director of photography] ever.

Does it feel different than the last two films?

Craig: Yeah, definitely.

In what way?

Craig: In every way, really. We’ve got a different team together; some old faces are still here. Again, talking about how it’s such a rare thing to make movies like this, and to be given the chance you have to give it all you’ve got. Now I’m at the stage where all I want to do is start showing this to an audience to get that reaction, to see how they react to it. I think it’s quite special, what we’ve got.

Here’s hoping. Who knows?

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Are you in a comfort zone now?

Craig: No, not at all. I’d hate to feel in a comfort zone while I was working. That’s not the way I like to do things. You want to be pressurized and you want to be challenged every day, and we are for sure on this movie challenged every day with something. It’s just a relief for us; we’ve been filming at Pinewood in sort of fairly dark locations for the past however long it’s been, so it’s great to come to Turkey and film in some amazing, beautiful locations. It feels like an old fashioned Bond movie.

Last week Rory, the president of distribution of Sony, announced Bond 24 for I guess late 2014…

Broccoli: He was getting a little overexcited (laughs). We’re just actually focusing on this movie. One hopes that in the future we’ll be announcing other films, but no one’s officially announced it.

Craig: No one’s announced anything. He got a little ahead of himself (laughs). It’s very nice that he has the confidence to be able to do that, but we haven’t finished this movie yet.

There’s been a lot of talk about how this has personal stakes for Bond. What does that require from you in your performance that maybe makes it more personal than the previous things we’ve seen?

Craig: I don’t think personally; it’s about the character and how he lives the experience. Again, just harkening back to the script, through a lot of hard work I think we’ve kind of got together a script that has a really strong bedrock of a story and something for all the characters — of which there are a lot in this movie — to sort of experience. There are very personal stories in it, and hopefully the audience will get affected by them and moved by them. It’s just a good acting job to do.

SCRUB

A S U P E R I O R S H AV I N G E X P E R I E N C E IN FOUR SIMPLE STEPS GLIDE

ICE

GUARD

FINISHED WITH A COOL BODY CLEANSE

J.PA U L

SKIN CARE FOR MEN

sophisticated simplicity WASH

Need style advice? t wi t t e r. c o m / c u l t u r a t a

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footwear

the

sole of a rebel

The Lace-up It is most fitting in these revolutionary times that our number one dress shoe remains the Oxford. To us, the Oxford is a simple shoe — plain in styling (unlike its descendent, the brogue, with its fancy-shmancy perforated medallion designs) and, therefore, our most business-like footwear option. But to Oxonians, as students at the British university are known, this shoe represented a sartorial Arab Spring.

At the turn of the 18th century, students rebelled against the concept of having to don knee-length or ankle-high boots on a daily basis, and took to wearing lowcut shoes that laced straight across the arch. The fad for “Oxfords,” as this shoe came to be called, spread across UK campuses and even made its way into some gentlemen’s wardrobes, although it would take another hundred-odd years and a world war before the style was finally deemed to be a shoe-in.

A century after that point, we now consider the Oxford the grand-old-daddy of all dress shoes, appropriate for use even with formalwear. So how could it not be the choice of the world’s top designers, during this season of elegant suitings and classic accoutrements?

The Strap-over From time to time, you might want to stuff your tootsies into something a little different — but no less acceptable than an Oxford. Consider the monk-strap, a plain-toed shoe with a single strap-and-buckle closure that crosses over the vamp and does up on the outside of the arch.

Developed in Europe in the 1930s, this shoe still carries with it a whiff of Continental elegance. It also has the advantage over other footwear in appearing at once dressy and casual. Just as today’s designers have done, choose either a black or brown calfskin model, or one in chocolate brown suede. And do try to avoid any of the clunkier double-buckled models you might run across.

The Slip-on Hands down, this fall’s most popular footwear is the loafer. It comes a bit thicker of sole than usual — the better to balance today’s slim suits. Although it might come decorated as well with a tassel or kiltie fringe, may we suggest you stick to the classic penny loafer style?

First developed in Norway in the mid-1930s, the casual slip-on shoe built along moccasin lines was quickly adopted by both the Spaulding and the G. H. Bass companies of New England. To Spaulding goes the honor of nicknaming the look “loafers,” after Esquire magazine ran a picture of Norwegian farmers wearing the shoes while standing next to a cow-loafing shed, a pasture shelter built to protect livestock in harsh weather. But G. H. Bass, who named their version “Weejuns” — a mash-up of “Norwegian” and “Injun” — took the prize by adding a strip of leather with a decorative cut-out in its center.

In the mid-1950s, American youth, most notably Rebel without a Cause’s James Dean, discovered that loafers looked way cool when worn with jeans. By that time too, the Ivy League look was raging, and students in the North-east literally made these shoes their own by inserting a copper penny into the cut-out slit. Thus, the penny loafer was born. Not perhaps as revolutionary an act as that perpetrated by their confreres at Oxford, but still a part of footwear history that we can proudly put on today.

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carried away The Latest in Leather Goods Offers a Mixed Bag

Two factors are at play today, pushing the direction of leather goods in opposite directions.

around a single, simple question: Why lug about a hefty attaché or briefcase when all you need to hold your work is a slim leather

The first is the airline industry’s new — and often confusing —

pouch? Present-day portfolios are therefore often as thin as the

restrictions on carry-on hand-luggage. Depending on which air-

electronics they carry, almost reaching women’s clutch-purse

line you’ve booked, your in-flight bag at most has an approximate

dimensions. Maybe to offset this visual association, many are

weight allowance of 50 pounds and a size allowance of 22 inches

made from he-manly stamped crocodile leather burnished to a

long, 18 inches high, and 10 inches deep. Anything larger or heav-

high gleam.

ier will either be subject to a hefty surcharge or tossed into the

Of course, if you don’t want to tote a small suitcase over your

general baggage compartment — the true business traveler’s

shoulder or cup a clutch-like bag in one hand, there are many

worst nightmare.

other options available at the moment. The “shopping bag,” for

As a consequence, durable leather goods are now being built to

instance, which looks just as it sounds but is more elegantly pre-

accommodate both regular day-to-day usage and occasional flying

sented in leather or a Burberry plaid, and features dual handles

requirements. You’ll notice that they’re most often soft-sided, the

and metalled hardware. The carry-all, made from similar materi-

better to squeeze into tight spaces; dual-handled for easier weight

als, remains a popular choice. Or you might elect to go with an

distribution; and feature a heavy-duty zip closure, for ease of

upgraded knapsack, set with a side handle for alternate con-

access. In fact, you’ll notice that what they most resemble is a

veyance and perhaps fabricated from kicky dyed leather in a hip

mini-suitcase. Because that’s what they essentially are: a case

color such as pea green or tangerine orange.

capable of holding lawyer’s briefs or designer briefs, or both.

The second stimulus in bag design is the swift rise in small, computerized notebooks and pads. Here, reasoning revolves

You may, indeed, take your pick of the leather goods out there, because this season no one trend stands out. An unusual fashion situation, admittedly, so try to take advantage of it while it lasts.

Photos Courtesy of Hugo Boss and Brax

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WAISTCOAT, WANT NOT Vests are everywhere this season — from dressy three-piece suits to casual outerwear puffers

Although there were several applicants for the position, this lucrative seasonal job has been filled by an experienced garment with a long CV of sartorial credits. The waistcoat (also known as a weskit in Brit-speak) has gone to work on our new fall/winter wardrobes, popping up all over the place in same-fabric three-piece suits, self-fabric suit companion pieces, and as a stand-alone garment. Its associates, the knitted vest and the quilted puffer vest, perform similar sleeveless duties in both the casual-dress and outerwear departments.

But it is to the tailored vest that we look for true professional aplomb. Its suiting material signifies business; yet worn on its own without a jacket, with just a dress shirt and tie, it also possesses an approachable-ness unmatched by most office attire — ideal, too, for giving at least the appearance of getting down to brass tacks.

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Photo Courtesy of Ravazzolo

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w w w. d i o n n e c k we a r. co m

Slip a suit jacket over top and it suddenly becomes an elegant finishing touch to a dress ensemble, not only visually slimming the figure but literally raising the vee-shaped bar at the chest, adding to the overall narrowed silhouette by reducing the amount of shirt and tie being shown.

Photo Courtesy of Stenstroms

Photo Courtesy of Alberto

And that elegance is often enhanced these days with the addition of lapels on the vest, another new-old feature of our current Edwardian era obsession that’s been fueled by the popular British TV series Downton Abbey.

Indeed, these lapeled waistcoats look so classically old-fashioned, one experiences a sense of disappointment if one does not see a watch chain and fob strung across its front. I mean to say, doesn’t one?

The height of traditionalism may well be the double-breasted lapeled vest, which too has its place in today’s wardrobes. It, in fact, performs a very valuable dual role, not just gussying up our dressier attire, but acting as a kind of secret agent, testing the waters as it were for its sleeved confrere, the doublebreasted jacket, gauging whether there’s enough interest out there to create a brand-new clothing vacancy.

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Photo Courtesy of Brax

Dacio is available in black patent, brown suede, grey suede and wine suede.