The Clotherie Ltd Magazine Fall 2013

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M ADE-TO-MEASURE

GET THE LOOK

TESLA MODEL X

OFFICINA DEL TEMPO

JEFF HORNACEK — NE W COACH OF THE PHOENIX SUNS

AUTUMN 2013 • WINTER 2014 • ISSUE 18

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Warmest personal greetings from all of us at The Clotherie. Each season we look

forward to the opportunity to share with you our vision and passion found in our latest designer collections. Please enjoy our fall/holiday issue of The Clotherie Magazine.

Year after year, we endeavor to stay current with the latest menswear trends and new

designers, while staying true to our standards and objectives: to give the utmost attention to customer service, to provide knowledgeable sales assistance and guidance in a pleasant manner, and to offer great value and unsurpassed quality with every purchase. We pride ourselves in our commitment to our customers and each other. We are dedicated to creating an experience that allows those who visit our store to enter as customers, but leave as members of The Clotherie family.

Couture independent menswear retailers like The Clotherie are few and far between these days. We are proud to be recognized as a

Gold Standard store by Esquire Magazine, one of the top retailers in the country, and voted #1 Men’s Fashion Store by Ranking Arizona since 1997. As a couture fashion retailer, we are invited to work with an exceptionally talented group of internationally renowned designers and luxury brands. We strive to provide our customers with the world’s most modern styles and looks, made with the highest level of craftsmanship. The result is apparel that is not only fashionable and chic, but also classic and sartorial for years to come. At The Clotherie, you don’t have to settle for the ordinary because you can attain the extraordinary.

The Clotherie staff welcomes the opportunity to help you select the perfect gift to honor those who give special meaning to your

life this holiday season. We want to work with you on all your apparel needs this season and for many seasons to come.

Each year we find ourselves challenged to stay ahead of the latest trends, not only in fine apparel, but in technology as well.

Technology has changed our daily lives, allowing for greater convenience and up-to-the-minute communication. Along those lines, take time to visit our website at theclotherie.com for the latest news, fashion updates and so much more!

Finally, beyond our dedication to customer service and providing an exceptional shopping experience, The Clotherie is committed

to serving and generously giving back to the community. We are proud to be charitable partners with many local and national non-profit agencies and service organizations, and want to take this time to thank you for helping make contributions possible, and for including us in so many of your events.

In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. Many of you have been loyal customers and

friends for a long time. Some of you as long as 45 years! We are grateful for your continuing friendship and patronage. As always, we appreciate the experience of sharing your personal celebrations. See you at The Clotherie soon!

With gratitude, Greg Eveloff

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3 Welcome 6 Out & About with The Clotherie 8 The Clotherie News & Events 10 Jeff Hornacek — New Coach of the Phoenix Suns

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12 Eton Celebrates 85 Years 14 Get the Look 18 The Trend in Menswear 22 Time, Italian Style

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24 Cartier Flexes its Muscles 26 Getting Your Money’s Worth 30 Service at The Clotherie 34 Remo Tulliani 36 Talbott Vineyards 40 Made-To-Measure

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42 Check the List 44 Get Hip to the Square 46 The Hard Truth About Hard Abs 50 The Dirt on Drycleaning

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Leslie C. Smith • Editorial Director Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor

Larry Stuart • Art Director Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer

The Clotherie Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2013, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

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events & happenings

One of many artistic displays at Pitti Uomo

OUT & ABOUT THE CLOTHERIE travels to Florence, Italy for PITTI UOMO The Clotherie was honored to attend Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy, a showcase for contemporary lifestyle trends and innovative styling. This prestigious international fair expands over four days, promoting menswear and accessories. Unique and expansive displays portray a union of tradition, style, innovation, and sartorial spirit. Simply strolling the grounds of Pitti Uomo, catching glimpses of flashy, flamboyant outfits, is an experience in itself. Pitti Uomo always offers unique inspiration for upcoming seasons of fashion for The Clotherie as we seek new designers and trends.

Greg with U.S. agent, David Glazer for Sartoria Partenopea

L.B.M. 1911 Display

Beautiful landscape view of Florence, Italy

EVENING OF TRENDS THE CLOTHERIE participated in Evening of Trends 2013 on September 28th at The Arizona Biltmore dressing the stylish gents for the evening’s fashion show. Evening of Trends contributes to numerous organizations throughout the valley, focusing on programs in need that positively impact women, children and their families.

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events & happenings THE CLOTHERIE travels to Sweden for ETON COLLEGE

Hans Davidson (CEO of Eton) with Greg Eveloff

The Clotherie was honored to be selected as one of ten exclusive retailers in North America to attend the first Eton College event. Greg and Mikki Eveloff traveled to Boras, Sweden where Greg visited the Eton factory in Ganghester to meet with the executive staff of Sweden. They spent the day touring the factory and meeting the Eton team. During this time, Greg learned about the wrinkle-resistant Eton shirt and why the eco-friendly Eton can be worn all day without losing its look.

Greg and Mikki were wined and dined at lovely Swedish restaurants where wine and food was abundant. After enduring a seven-hour bus ride to Stockholm, they were pleasantly greeted by the warm Eton staff at their beautiful hotel. Greg spent the following day at the design studio in Stockholm with Sebastian Dollinger, the head designer of Eton shirts. Later they met with the tie manufacturer from London to create their own works of art…along with the other attendees, Greg designed his own tie which will be made and delivered for the next season. To cap off the finale of Eton College, we were treated to a fabulous boat ride across the river to a quaint restaurant on a private island. The attendees all officially graduated and were actually given diplomas in a fun ceremony at the end of the evening. Eton outdid themselves in every way during these four days with such grace and elegance.

Greg with the Eton truck Greg graduates Eton college Wayne Mullis...

Grand Prize winner of Canali Suit!

Guests enjoying themselves at the party!

Eton Crease Resistant Chart

THE CLOTHERIE CELEBRATES 44 YEARS! Friends and family gathered at The Clotherie on March 29th to celebrate our 44th anniversary! It was a fabulous evening for socializing, supping on Avanti’s divine cuisine, and sipping some fine Italian wine. We were honored to have Peter Schmid (Canali), Larry Lentini and Marc Spero (Zanella), and Pino Tricase (Italo Ferritti) in attendance for this special event. As always, Angelo Livi served a delectable array of Italian delights to tempt everyone’s tastes. Wayne Mullis won the grand prize of a Canali suit. Guests walked away with fun gift bags filled with goodies.

Greg Eveloff with Angelo Livi (Avanti’s)

Larry Lentini, Marc Spero, Dr. Augusta Smargiassi, Pino Tricase, Peter Schmid, Greg Eveloff

the clotherie news & events

NEWS & EVENTS SPECIAL EVENTS AT THE CLOTHERIE Saturday, November 2nd 50th Anniversary Celebration of Biltmore Fashion Park Saturday, November 9th 1 Year Anniversary Celebration at Bonafide Goods and R & R Surplus (Union at Biltmore Fashion Park)

UPCOMING TRUNK SHOWS AT THE CLOTHERIE Saturday, November 16 Tulliani with Remo Tulliani – belts, sunglasses, bracelets and umbrellas (see article, pg. 34) Remo Tulliani

SPECIAL EVENTS AT THE BILTMORE MOVIES IN THE PARK Enjoy classic favorites under the stars every Friday night at 7:30 pm on the Center lawn. Fall season of Movies in the Park kicks off on October 11 with Can’t Buy Me Love and commences on December 13. Don’t forget to take advantage of great to-go dining deals from participating restaurants.

November 1:

Bridget Jone’s Diary

November 8:

National Lampoon’s Animal House

November 15:

ET the Extra Terrestrial

November 22:

When Harry Met Sally

November 29:

no movie

December 6:

Holiday Inn

December 13:

Dr. Seuss’ How The Grinch Stole Christmas

Farmer’s Market: Beginning on October 6, UNION’S Farmer’s Market will take place every Sunday from 11 am to 4 pm on the east side of Biltmore Fashion Park until April 2014. Enjoy fresh baked breads, jams, pesticide-free produce, all natural meats, pastas, salads, raw AZ honey, gluten-free products, and much more!

50th Anniversary Celebration: Biltmore Fashion Park is celebrating 50 years here in the Valley.

Help us celebrate this landmark occasion, with a kick-off event on November 2 from 6 to 9 pm with live entertainment, raffle prizes and food and drinks from various local and Valley restaurants!

Tickets can be purchased for $50 a piece and all proceeds will benefit your choice of the following charities: Fresh Start, PANDA, or Phoenix Children’s Hospital.

Vino & Canvas: Gather your friends on October 24 from 6 to 9 pm for a special evening including live music, raffle prizes and a three-hour painting experience by a talented art instructor where you’ll create your own 16” x 20” stretched canvas masterpiece to take home while enjoying tasty appetizers from California Pizza Kitchen and your choice of wine. Tickets are $49 a piece and include all supplies.

For more information and to purchase tickets please visit shop.biltmore.com. Space is limited.

Blanco Tacos & Tequila will open December 2013 in the old Ling & Louie’s Kitchen space.

White House Flowers will be temporarily relocating away from UNION for a Holiday store in November.

Amenzone Fitness will be opening in October on the east side of Biltmore Fashion Park. Amenzone Fitness is a back-to-basics training zone tailored for athletes and athletically minded people. Their style of training promotes a natural workout that uses clean tires and one’s own body strength and movement to stay fit.

Juice 365 – UNION’S newest addition is set to open in Nov. 2013.

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THE CLOTHERIE APPAREL COLLECTIONS FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 •••••

THE CLOTHERIE is honored as a BEST OF CLASS GOLD STANDARD STORE by Esquire Magazine ESQUIRE MAGAZINE once again honored THE CLOTHERIE as one of the finest men’s specialty stores in the country as one of the GOLD STANDARD STORES, Esquire Magazine is renowned for its expertise, knowledge, and advice in men’s fashion for over 80 years.

THE CLOTHERIE, celebrating it’s 45th year, is proud to receive this prestigious award that salutes the stores that “continuously raise the bar on what it means to be the best in the business.”

CHECK IT OUT VISIT OUR WEBSITE www.theclotherie.com for the latest in CLOTHERIE news, blog, fashion updates, magazine, and so much more!

The Clotherie online store at www.theclotherie.com/ online-shop which features a wide selection from favorite designers…new fashions and exclusive vendors including Alberto, Eton and more.

Thanks to all of our FACEBOOK friends! Pass the word to friends and family so we can continue to grow…catch up on CLOTHERIE news, link to the Online Shop, and so much more! Continue to join us on FACEBOOK or follow us on TWITTER!

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events & happenings

Jeff Hornacek

Phoenix Suns Head Coach Since the 1980s, a lot has changed in Phoenix. The city has grown from small desert town to thriving metropolis. Houses, buildings and new forms of transportation have all sprung up from the dry, rocky and mountainous terrain like Carly Rae Jepsen’s career, completely out of nowhere.

Like they say, though, the more things change, the more they stay the same. Despite Phoenix’s growth, you can still count on scorching temperatures that turn your seat belt into a branding iron in the summer, snowbirds that turn the roadways into a parking lot in the winter and people freaking out more than the double-rainbow guy any time it rains.

The same can be said for the Phoenix Suns. A lot has changed since the late ‘80s. The Purple Palace rose from the ashes of an area downtown usually reserved for the kind of people you’d see in an episode of Law and Order to replace the Madhouse on McDowell.

The players, uniforms and logos have all changed and the franchise has gone from fighting for its existence to one of exemplary teams in the league.

Things are different than the ‘80s, that is for sure — most notably the shorts leave plenty to the imagination now — but there are also a lot of things that have remained consistent in the Valley of the Suns. Purple and orange are still the primary colors, point guards are still the focal point of the team, names like Jeff Hornacek, Mark West and Kenny Gattison are still part of the organization, and the offense is still predicated on out-running the competition.

In the ‘80s there was the Cotton Express (something Hornacek and West were part of), in the ‘90s there was the Purple Gang from Phoenix, in the 2000s there was “seven seconds or less” and now it’s time for a new generation of Suns offense to take hold.

Hornacek learned under the tutelage of his former coach and friend Cotton Fitzsimmons, and it has shown in Summer League.

Cotton would be proud of the way his former guard has run his offense, fast and free.

“The guys were free flowing and passing to each other,” Hornacek said of his Summer League offense. “Hopefully we get to a point where they can do that for all four quarters, where they’re just creating something for somebody else.

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“It’s when guys start thinking ‘how am I going to score?’ is usually when you don’t score. If you’re thinking about how you can get a teammate a shot, it’s all going to come around to you eventually because a teammate is going to pass it to you. That’s the kind of team ball we’re looking for.”

That team ball is another one of those things that hasn’t changed since the ‘80s for your Suns. While Hornacek’s mentor, Fitzsimmons’ offense was known by the old west imagery of a locomotive speeding through the desert, the new-age version of the offense needs to be known by a more modern moniker.

Like the many freeways that have sprouted up around town since the Madhouse days, the newest Suns coach’s offense has no red lights and you’re free to go almost as fast as you want. It seems only fitting that this offense is known as the Hornacek Highway, a tip of the hat to Cotton’s past with an eye to the future.

It’s not just fans that enjoy the new-look offense though, the players on the Summer League roster love it, too.

“I think it fits me perfect,” said rookie Archie Goodwin. “I’m able to run the floor. I’ll run it every time. It plays into the way I play. I like to get up and down. It plays into my favor.”

A lot has changed since the 1980s in the city and for the franchise, but if we’re lucky, the Hornacek Highway will lead everyone involved back to the same success the Cotton Express carried the franchise to. If this offseason is any indication, things are heading in the right direction.

Watch the Suns games this season...

Jeff’s wardrobe provided by The Clotherie

designer news

ETON ANNOUNCES HANDPICKED COLLECTION IN CELEBRATION OF THEIR 85TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY

At the end of the 1920s, a married couple in the small Swedish village of Gånghester set out with an incredible vision for fine men’s shirting. Today, the result of that vision continues to be worn by well-dressed gentlemen around the world.

To celebrate the life and drive of its founders, Eton have announced the DnA collection— a handpicked assortment of shirts bearing the initials of the brand’s innovators, David and Annie Pettersson. The DnA collection will play home to an array of finely crafted, inventive pieces (each designated by a new white ribbon), and will be released in August as part of the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection. What’s more, all DnA garments will be produced where the Eton story began 85 years ago: Gånghester, Sweden.

“For all of us at Eton, this collection is something more than a normal release—it’s a tribute to the ideals and high standards that set Eton on a path for success so long ago. Attention to detail, a commitment to the finest materials and impeccable design...these were rules that my grandparents David and Annie Pettersson lived by, and they’re the same rules Eton runs on today”, says Hans Davidson, CEO. To best reflect these principles, all shirts in the DnA collection are produced from the finest materials, starting with extra long staple cotton and ending with hand carved mother of pearl buttons. By working closely with some of the best weavers and mills in Europe, Eton can also ensure that all steps of the production cycle—from cotton selection to a unique finishing process—adhere to the highest possible standards.

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etonshirts.com – facebook.com/etonofsweden

ATTENTION TO DETAIL is what has turned Eton into one of the world’s finest shirt makers. Founded in 1928 by husband and wife Annie and David Pettersson, Eton’s dedicated belief in quality and craftsmanship has helped spread their story from the small village in Gånghester in the west of Sweden to some of the world’s most exclusive stores. Today, Eton is still run by the Pettersson family and remains loyal to its heritage as a specialist shirt maker.

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America, with the world following right behind, is back in business again, and it feels

mighty good. It looks good too. Today’s business suit is trending towards a no-nonsense, hard-working model that, while still maintaining a slimmed silhouette, successfully fits a wider segment of the population. Key to this are slightly longer jackets and higher-rising trousers that appear more correctly balanced than they have over the past several seasons. Crisp tailoring gives sharp definition to the shoulderlines, and in some cases interior roping has been used to delineate them even further. Jacket bodies trace the torso without confining it. The trousers, too, are well cut and sometimes offer

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more room at the top, thanks to a touch of pleating at the waist. This not only provides a pleasing flow of fabric down to the tapered leg, but it also allows you to slip a hand into your side pocket without struggling.

LOOK

This season’s new suits skewed to classic fabrics and cuts

Two-button single-breasted jackets remain the market leader, but there are signs that their days of solo sway are numbered. Three-button jackets have once again moved back into the picture, as have six-button double-breasted jackets. In both cases, you can make these styles come across as fresh simply by doing them up on only the middle button. This relaxation of the recent hard-and-fast rule about the number of allowable

jacket buttons is welcome news. A man should be able to chose more than a single tailored style and select what suits him best rather than succumbing to fashion dictates.

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men’s fashion

The addition of three-piece suits into this mix offers even more dress options. Indeed, the appearance of a vest set off with a well-

shaped jacket and slightly pleated trousers is forcefully reminiscent of menswear’s Golden Age of the 1930s. Shrug a big, double-breasted overcoat over top, snap down the brim of your felt fedora, and you’re ready to start channelling your inner Gary Cooper.

Just as classic are this season’s fabric patterns and colorations. Black, navy, and sometimes even chocolate brown, worn on their

own in a solid cloth or enlivened by pinstriping, always make good choices. But even better this time around are the fifty shades of gray designers sent strutting down the runways. Suits came in every conceivable shade of gray, from dark charcoal to dove, steel to ash, in either solid fabrications, patterns such as glen plaid or houndstooth, or salt-and-peppered into a traditional tweed. (Many of these same suiting fabrics have been recycled as well for fall into such casualwear pieces as windbreakers and pants.) Gray ties, topcoats, hats, and scarves help complete the monochromatic palette – which is great news for color-shy guys, since it’s pretty much impossible to screw up an ensemble in this shade.

This fall’s no-nonsense attitude towards suiting styles is not only a breath of fresh air, it also has a lot in common with what your old highschool coach used to say on the eve of a big game: Stick to the fundamentals, and you’ll do all right.

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men’s fashion

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Plays Well with Gray Shades of gray from dark to light dominate this season’s palette in both business dress and casual clothing, yet given gray’s neutral nature, there’s still plenty of room for color play. Offset the somber with an occasional furnishing in purple or camel, summer shades of stone, white and ecru, rust and fire engine reds, dark forest greens and aubergines, rich burgundies and warm browns.

Check and Double-Check

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Just in case you were wondering why you’re seeing so many checked fabrics in the offing, lay the blame at the door of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which recently hosted an appreciation of all things punk. Our checkered past has led to today’s casual pants, shirts, and outerwear in tartan and buffalo plaid, dress shirts in more refined ginghams and windowpanes, and both business and casual clothes in houndstooth check, glen plaid and such sober tartans as Black Watch plaid.

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autumn 2013

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PHOTO COURTESY OF MASON

Pick of the Knits

You really only need three types of sweaters this season: The first and most popular is the turtleneck, done up in finer gauges so it can be worn with a suit, in place of a shirt and tie or layered under an open-necked sports shirt almost as an undergarment. The second is a round-necked, chunky cable-knit, preferably in creamy off-white wool, that can be worn with just about any casual ensemble. And the third is rather different. Yes, it’s a cardigan, but a cardigan that’s been reimagined along slimmer lines, skimming the body to mimic a laid-back suit jacket and designed with that simple purpose in mind.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO

men’s fashion

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALBERTO

Claret The new color of the season is claret. This deep burgundy shade is a wonderful contrast to the navy blues and dark greys being offered by top designers this fall. Deep-hued sport jackets in fantastic plaids, solids and velvets offered up a rich and luxurious touch to the runways. Go with a claret-colored turtleneck and camel jacket, like the one shown here, to show off your “mod nod” to the 70s.

Outerwear That’s In The classics make for can’t-miss ensembles this fall. Baseball jackets, zip-front windbreakers, and slightly dressier slit-pocketed and collared Harringtons will do for cool days, as will shearling-collared jean jackets and leather bombers. For the worst winter can throw at you, go with a sturdy duffel coat, comfy parka, or a lined trench, which this season is often done up in leather or wax-coated cloth and features a big stand-up collar.

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Luxurious Sportswear Integrating luxurious sportswear into your everyday wear can be difficult.

Choose select pieces that look just as good paired with dark jeans and a sportjacket for weekend play as they do at the gym. Try adding just one or two key styles to your wardrobe this year: a sweatshirt or luxe hoody embodies the sports aesthetic, yet if you make sure it is fitted and constructed from high quality materials, it will not look scruffy when paired with other smart casual pieces.

Heads Up Quite a few Astrakhan lamb hats — the kind Slovak troopers would wear — showed up on the runways as a nod to Russian style. While these toppers are perfectly acceptable, chances are not too great that American men will choose to don one. For them, a fur hood, a knit

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toque or watch cap, a flat driving cap or broader newsboy cap, even an old-fashioned felt fedora, will prove this winter’s crowning touch.

autumn 2013

PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO

designer profile

TIME, ITALIAN STYLE

Born in Italy on the cusp of the millennium in the

year 2000, Officina Del Tempo was conceived of as a top-quality, value-oriented brand with strong personality. Since its inception, it has consistently offered extraordinary styles and incomparable craftsmanship.

Officina Del Tempo Delivers Made-in-Italy excellence of heirloom quality through beautiful forms and the finest materials. The brand offers contemporary timepieces with urban appeal and classic elegance. Every watch is created according to the strictest standards of excellence, with particular attention paid to every detail.

The Clotherie is proud to offer many exciting models.

Officina Del Tmpo watches are designed and

crafted in Italy, utilizing customized Swiss (Ronda) or Japanese (Miyota) mechanical and quartz movements. Mechanical watches are rigorously tested for 72 hours before shipping. Dials feature the colors of the Italian flag discreetly on them. The straps are handcrafted exclusively of genuine leather or smooth or textured gel/ rubber, and buckles are finely tuned. Quality is the key philosophy at Officina Del Tempo, dominating every step of watch production and customer service.

Officina Del Tempo was the brainchild of

brothers Giorgio and Roberto Emili, and is a rare combination of older brother Giorgio’s sensitivity and younger brother Roberto’s strategic abilities.

Giorgio developed the deep knowledge of watches and the secrets of the aesthetic and technical side for product design, while Roberto handles strategic planning and company management as the financial and trading head of the company. Both brothers continue to actively nurture the brand and position it for planned growth around the world.

Officina Del Tempo

Brings Made-In-Italy Timing to North America

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Time to Express Yourself! www.officina.us

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Cartier

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flexes its watchmaking muscle

Five new movements and a dazzling granulated dial are among the latest treasures from Cartier

Cartier

has made a virtuoso display of watchmaking

prowess this year. The brand introduced no less than 113 new models, including 40 high jewelry pieces, eight models in its Metiers d’art collection and five new in-house movements. The most important of these is the 1904-CH MC, a column-wheel chronograph movement presented in eight The Calibre de Cartier Chronograph contains the brand’s first inhouse chronograph movement.

references in the Calibre de Cartier collection. Powered by two barrels, the movement is fitted with a vertical coupling that allows the traditional jump of the seconds hand to be eliminated during the start and stop phases. Design highlights include the outsized Roman numeral (a Cartier signature) at XII, and elegantly placed pushers that are integrated into the crown reinforcement.

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In a deft combo of innovation and heritage, Cartier also introduced two new movements in its Mysterieuses collection, including the Mystery 9981 MC, and the Double Tourbillon caliber 9454

Cartier is famous for its mystery watches, the hands of which seem to tell time by floating in space, thanks to a system of rotating sapphire disks.

MC. Cartier is famous for its mystery watches, the hands of which seem to tell time by floating in space, thanks to a system of rotating sapphire disks. The Rotonde de Cartier Double Tourbillon can only be described as magical. Hands that

The Cartier Panthere Granulation Etrusque.

appear to be floating in space are amazing enough, but a suspended flying tourbillon that seems totally unconnected to any gear train is a wonder of watchmaking. It turns on its axis every 60 seconds, then makes a second rotation at a rate of once every five minutes.

The caliber 9423 MC is the brand’s first in-house perpetual calendar, presented in the Rotonde Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.

Perpetual Calendar Chronograph — thus measuring both long and short periods of time in one mechanism. The elegant dial is remarkably uncluttered, considering the amount of information it has to convey.

And finally, a noteworthy creation in the Metiers d’Art collection: the Rotonde de Cartier Granulation Etrusque. Granulation is an ancient goldsmithing art that involves positioning tiny granules of gold on a dial plate to form a composition in relief, and then firing it to fuse them to the gold plate. In this case, the composition is Cartier’s signature motif — the panther. It took 360 hours (four months) to create this dial, using 3,800 balls of 22k gold. Only one person at Cartier has the

The Rotonde de Cartier Double Tourbillon Mysterieux.

expertise to do this.

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Looking stylish puts money back in your pocket!

Climbing the corporate ladder takes the right tools. Not only do you have to excel at your job, you have to look good doing it.

Despite the lingering specter of business casual dress, savvy business people know that a sartorial suit is still key for getting ahead.

A recent survey confirms that instinct.

Dress for success

Would managers at my company wear this? If

Ninety-three percent of managers polled said a person’s style of dress at work influences his or her chances of earning

the answer is no, it’s probably not a wise choice for you, either.

a promotion; one-third said on-the-job attire significantly affects an employee’s advancement prospects. Only 7 percent said dress had no influence at all.

The survey was developed by OfficeTeam, a leading staffing service specializing in the placement of highly skilled administrative professionals. It was conducted by an independent research firm and includes responses from 150 senior executives at the nation’s 1,000 largest companies.

Is it a distraction? Unless you’re in the fashion, entertainment, or another creative industry, flamboyant or overly trendy attire can detract from your credibility. Think it through and look professional. Fortunately for you, just by purchasing the finest in menswear you’ll have a leg up on your competition, no matter the style.

“The old adage about dressing for the position to which you aspire still holds true,” said Diane Domeyer, executive director of OfficeTeam. “A polished

Does it give me confidence?

When you’re dressed sharply, you’ll be more self-assured.

appearance lends credibility and

Look for attire that is flatter-

may help employers envision the

ing and makes you feel good

staff member in a role with

about yourself.

greater responsibility.”

“Attire is not the only

Is it crisp and new

thing workers are judged on,

in appearance? Even in

but it is part of the equation,”

casual work environ-

Domeyer added. “While a proper wardrobe alone won’t earn you a promotion, dressing inappropriately could cost you one.”

ments,

avoid

clothes

that are torn, wrinkled, or messy. Sloppy attire may prompt your manager to question your attention to detail.

Questions OfficeTeam advises professionals seek-

Does the suit fit me well? Clothing

ing advancement to ask themselves the

that fits well is especially important in

following questions when selecting work

a business environment. Avoid wearing

attire:

an old-model suit when meeting with

MAKING THE RIGHT FASHION STATEMENT PUTS YOUR CAREER ON THE RIGHT PATH.

suit should be contemporary and body

clients or potential employers. Your

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conscious. The proper suit should fit you like a glove and show the proper amount of cuff. Never too big. Never too small.

The Men’s Apparel Alliance, a group of clothing manufacturers and retailers, says male executives should almost always wear a dress shirt, necktie, sport jacket or blazer, and dress-casual business trousers to work.

A classic suit is always appropriate, no matter how the rest of the office occupants dress. Even the most casually attired employees should don business trousers, business shirts, and leather shoes.

Wearing a suit to the office, even if the dress code at your workplace is casual, may boost your professional image, according to a recent survey from TheLadders.com, a job site that lists executive-level openings.

Respondents included about 2,000 of the site’s members, with incomes of $75,000 or more. Around 70 percent of the respondents said employees dressed in suits are perceived to be more senior level, while 60 percent said these folks are taken more seriously.

Casual backlash In today’s economy, it’s clearly out of style to be cavalier about being employed. Even if you try to atone for your crimes of fashion by wearing a herringbone jacket, you may be seen as arrogant if you wear jeans and tennis shoes in a white-collar environment.

“The trend of casualization has gone too far,” said James Ammeen, president of the Men’s Apparel Alliance, in a released statement. “CEOs who were originally pressured by their management to institute a casual dress policy to attract new employees and retain existing ones are now trying to figure out how to repeal this so-called ‘perk’ in order to increase professionalism and productivity.”

NINETY-THREE PERCENT OF MANAGERS POLLED SAID A PERSON’S STYLE OF DRESS AT WORK INFLUENCES HIS OR HER CHANCES OF EARNING A PROMOTION; ONE-THIRD SAID ON-THE-JOB ATTIRE “SIGNIFICANTLY” AFFECTS AN EMPLOYEE’S ADVANCEMENT PROSPECTS. ONLY 7 PERCENT SAID DRESS HAD NO INFLUENCE AT ALL. The dot-com bust shattered the myth of the casual workplace. During the boom times, the unfettered creativity of gonzo software developers fueled by coffee and sushi seemed like the antidote to the stuffy ivory towers of American business. Post 9/11, it was clear that the grownups should be in charge again.

Casualwear retreated in many traditional companies, but it survives in some cases on Fridays or during the summer.

Even with years of business casual under our collective belts, it’s disconcerting to walk into a meeting not knowing what the dress code is. It’s no problem when you’re the only one in a suit. No one would question that you dressed professionally for a meeting. But the reverse can be nerve-wracking if you’re the only one in a golf shirt and khakis. You doubt others’ perceptions of you: Do they know how good I am at what I do? Will they take my recommendations seriously? A suit preempts all those questions and puts you in the position of authority.

Traditional business dress is becoming more and more common, especially in the professions that deal with the public. Clients and customers want to do business with someone who presents a smart, polished appearance that inspires confidence. They want to be able to tell the attorney from the intern, the CFO from the junior accountant.

If you’ve been wearing the casual uniform for the last few years, this year’s classic styles represent an opportunity to update your business wardrobe. It’s an investment in your performance and your future that will pay dividends for years. The best counsel for staying ahead in the corporate world is, ask your clothier for advice. You want to make sure the statement you make is the right one to put your career on the right path.

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store information

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Shopping at a specialty store like ours is about

service You want to look sharp, but who has time to fuss? By working with our sales staff, you have a personal shopper available to make sure you always look your best in every situation. Personal shoppers anticipate your needs, share their extensive knowledge of clothing options, and save you time when shopping for clothes.

Building relationships The best part of our business is forming relationships with customers — sometimes with four generations of customers in the same family. We get that kind of loyal following by providing personal service from the moment you step into the store for the very first time.

We get the pleasure of outfitting up to four generations in a single family because happy customers recommend our store to their chil-

“My goal is to do a really great job for each customer, which might mean doing something different for each person. You have to listen well and make sure the customer gets what he or she wants or needs. It’s about being familiar with your customers in the best sense of the word.” ~Greg Eveloff, owner

dren and may even bring in their grandchildren for their first suit. Of course, the trick to serving multiple generations of a family is having things that appeal to all four generations without compromising anything for anyone.

Shopping at the store becomes a family tradition, a rite of passage, or part of the special occasion itself. Becoming privy to a family’s important events, such as weddings and bar mitzvahs, rests on trust earned by providing superior service 365 days a year for decades.

Exceeding expectations When you step into our store, you’ll be greeted by the owner or a salesperson that has probably been with us for many, many years. We are proud of the low turnover in sales positions, which means you can develop a relationship with a salesperson who will be on hand over the years to help you assemble and polish your wardrobe.

When salespeople are with the store for most of their professional careers, it means regular customers will always find a familiar face on hand, and you’ll rarely have to explain to someone new what your

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clothing preferences are.

Someone who knows every suit and tie in your closet can keep an eye out for new merchandise each season that will fit in with what you already own and like, as well as what might be a change of pace for special occasions. Like your barber introducing a new haircut, your salesperson can guide you to new looks that meld seamlessly with your current style and keep your wardrobe updated.

Anticipating your needs We keep track of customer purchases, which helps us improve our merchandise mix within the store. In this way, we anticipate your preferences, allowing our sales staff to make selections for you before you even come in the door. We can make recommendations on newly arrived items that will match what’s already in your wardrobe and preselect options based on previous purchases so you will see only items you’d seriously consider buying. Need a grey suit? Call us and we’ll put full ensembles together for you in your sizes before you ever arrive.

You can shop quickly, without sacrificing style. When you prefer or when time is an issue, our staff can use stored information to make selections on your behalf in advance of your visit. Whether you’re searching for something to wear for a special occasion, such as a major presentation or a wedding, or for everyday clothing needs, you can call ahead to let the store know you are coming. Salespeople will happily preselect appropriate clothing combinations especially for you.

When we go on our buying trips to New York, Europe, and elsewhere, we’re on the lookout for garments just right for our customers.

Because we know from past purchases what you like, sometimes we may even buy a single item for you that will never see the showroom floor. You have someone scouring the world on your behalf to bring the latest fashions home to you.

information stored in customer records to make alterations, ensuring a perfect fit in every garment — sometimes without your even having to try it on in advance.

For clients with fitting issues, this kind of service means you’ll never again have to explain to a stranger the shoulder surgery that requires an adjustment to the sleeve length or shoulder seam. There’s never any embarrassment about discussing changes in your physique that might require alterations in ready-to-wear items, either.

On regular price items, free alterations for the life of the garment will always ensure a proper fit no matter how unkind time is to the body. Sometimes an emergency requires us to repair or alter a garment within a short period of time for our clients. We are happy to oblige.

Becoming familiar Quality service is less about going above and beyond than about making top-notch service a part of every shopping encounter.

Our people work hard to meet and exceed customer expectations.

Sharing knowledge Building trust is a key part of our customer service, and that trust rests on superior knowledge of the fashion industry.

People come back to our store because of the knowledge our people have about what to wear, how best to wear it, when to where it, and, when needed, how to tailor the item to look its best on you. We understand the lifestyles of our customers and rise to meet those needs so that our clients always look their best. After all, our customer are an extension and walking reflection of our store in the community.

When necessary, we’ll bring a clothing selection to your office if you can’t make it to the shop. We can bring a tailor and several selections in your sizes to choose from, and even deliver directly to your home or ship to your next business trip destination. As funny as it may sound, we understand that there are sometimes fashion emergencies. Call us and we’ll take care of everything. Call it concierge service, if you like.

Do staff people in your company need a little help and advice on current styles? We’d be happy to attend a corporate meeting, seminar, or company retreat to demonstrate proper fit, dress, fabrics, and even matching clothing criteria for a specific look.

Proper fit and execution Making sure a customer always looks good is part of the our responsibility. Our clients want to know that they’ll look appropriate in a boardroom anywhere in the world. We do the research and provide that expertise so you can focus on your job.

Proper tailoring keeps our customers looking good. Our tailors have years of experience. This may be the most overlooked criterion when choosing where to shop. Our store’s tailors make use of Clients rarely know the extremes to which we go to satisfy their needs.

We might need to make 20 phone calls to find the jacket you saw in a store window in another city or stay open after hours to tie the bow ties for your groomsmen on your wedding day.

“The difference between a specialty store like ours and a department store is the relationships we nurture. We want to develop a relationship with our customer that will be ongoing for the life of the customer and beyond, with his or her children and grandchildren.” ~Greg Eveloff, owner

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designer profile

Remo

Tulliani

Being one of the few fashion designers from Arizona, Remo Tulliani takes pride in his Scottsdale upbringing.

Remo’s journey began over 20 years ago, after graduating from Northern Arizona University. Originally, he had his sights set on business, and pursued degrees in finance and marketing. Nonetheless, his eye for design and a passion for the beautiful gradually took over. At the young age of 22, with a handful of belts and a tank full of gas, he set out to get his line into men’s specialty stores all over the southwest.

Remo is best known for his astounding belt collection. All of Remo’s belts are hand-made and comprised of genuine Italian materials— which he designs and procures himself. He is deeply involved in all aspects of the creation process and takes pride in putting his stamp of approval on each piece with his name on it. With his acute attention to detail, Remo can say with confidence that all of his belts are comprised of only the best materials available.

Six years ago, Remo designed his own material, which has since become his signature sock and is often referred to as “the greatest sock in the world”. The sock will never fade, constructed as nonbinding, provides arch support, a ventilation system, and has moisture wicking properties. The Remo Tulliani ‘Ultimate Performance’ sock continues to hold a special place in the market since its inception.

While continuing to fervently design and conceptualize new designs within the belt and sock world, Remo has taken on new product categories including: men’s jewelry, umbrellas, walking sticks, sunglasses and most recently a new line of leather goods. All products created within the Tulliani brand must have that “special something”, and is meant to be seen as a gift. The Tulliani design is utility driven with a “flow” that can be experienced through the materials he uses, the utility of the product, and the exceptional attention to detail.

In true Tulliani style, each new product line has hit the market with spectacular features and a fashionable, masculine touch. The jewelry line boasts pure .925 silver and uniquely designed pieces. The umbrellas and walking sticks are adorned with genuine Swarovski elements, all fashioned hand-made in Italy. The recently launched vision collection is also hand-made in Italy, with beautiful shatterproof glass lens technology, which Tulliani himself worked with the leading Italian lens makers to create.

Remo Tulliani has grown his business and his roots in Arizona’s heritage and beauty. He looks forward to continuing to create, design, and visualize in Arizona for years to come.

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talbott vineyards

For connoisseurs and collectors, the name Talbott Vineyards has become synonymous with world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Founded more than three decades ago by Robb Talbott, Talbott Vineyards is one of America’s great family-owned estate wineries. It is renowned for making wines that are as rich and voluptuous as they are elegant and sophisticated. The story of Talbott Vineyards’ is about the Talbott family’s commitment to quality, and Robb Talbott’s passion for making great wine, no matter the challenges.

Whether racing motorcycles, producing luxury apparel, planting vineyards, or making fine wines, Robb has always followed his own path. As one of the great pioneers of Monterey winemaking, he has played a key role in putting Monterey on the global winemaking stage, and established Talbott Vineyards as one of the New World’s great wineries.

In 1950, Robb moved with his parents, Robert and Audrey Talbott, to the picturesque seaside town of Carmel, California.

Throughout his youth, he helped with the family luxury apparel business, working in the tie studio and traveling with his parents on buying trips to Europe. It was during these trips that Robb

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developed his love of fine wine; a passion that would shape his life. A little while later, much to the displeasure of his parents, Robb also discovered his love for racing motorcycles.

Through the late sixties and early seventies, Robb attended Colorado College, where he earned his degree in studio art, design and sculpture. He also raced motorcycles competitively (including in Colorado’s famed Pikes Peak race), and started his own business restoring and selling antique cars and trucks.

In 1972, he came back to Monterey and rejoined the family apparel business. During this time, he also embraced his belief in the value of physical labor by building his own cabin home on a remote piece of land high above Carmel Valley. There, deep in the heart of the region made famous in the books of John Steinbeck, Robb asserted his individualism as an artist, woodsman, builder, beekeeper, rancher, mechanic and businessman.

He heated the cabin with a wood stove and erected a windmill to provide electricity. A decade later, he picked up a 12-pound sledgehammer and began breaking boulders on the property as he started preparing the site for planting as a vineyard.

talbott vineyards

Naysayers said that the steep, windswept site, with its exposed facing and massive boulders was “too cold,” “too difficult to plant” and “too challenging to grow grapes on.” But Robb had a vision—a vision he held on to as he prepared the vineyard by hand. “I knew that I wanted to create unique and exceptional Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs,” says Robb. “Wines that took their inspiration from the traditions of Burgundy, but had deep roots in California’s soils.”

In 1982, this remarkable property became the acclaimed Diamond T Vineyard, named after an antique “Diamond T” truck Robb had restored. That same year, Robb founded Talbott Vineyards. “When I started Talbott Vineyards, there were only 215 wineries in all of California. Today, there are thousands across the state.”

Though Diamond T was the exciting start of the Talbott Vineyards estate program, its crown jewel is Sleepy Hollow Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Noted wine writer Robert Whitley called Sleepy Hollow a “national treasure,” and it is one of only a handful of New World vineyards to have a wine honored with a rare, perfect 100-point score by Wine Spectator. Sleepy Hollow has taken Monterey from being a promising outpost for exceptional wines to being a world-renowned winegrowing region.

In 2008 Robb Talbott brought in renowned winemaker Dan Karlsen to begin a new chapter in the story of Talbott Vineyards.

A Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist, Dan refers to himself as a winegrower, not a winemaker. He is also a hedonist who loves flavor—something Sleepy Hollow delivers on an epic scale.

Drawing from the diversity of the Talbott estate program, Dan produces a range of sought-after wines. From the pure, lush fruit of the Kali Hart tier to the power and complexity of Talbott’s flagship Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, each wine is unique. “Our Sleepy Hollow wines deliver amazing

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warm, rich bass notes,” says Dan. “Kali Hart is more the treble.

Our Logan wines are the bridge. That’s what I love about Sleepy Hollow. It gives you everything.”

With Dan guiding winegrowing and winemaking, Talbott is making the best wines in its history. In fact, when Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate recently assessed Talbott’s latest wines, critic Jeb Dunnuck wrote, “I was blown away by these current releases.”

This sentiment was recently echoed in Food & Wine, where Ray Isle wrote, “Talbott is producing its best wines in years with new winemaker Dan Karlsen,” and also on IntoWine.com, where Dan was #24 on its list of the “100 Most Influential U.S. Winemakers.”

While Talbott has always been famous for its Chardonnays, with Dan at the helm, it is now earning equal acclaim for its Pinot Noirs. Working together, Dan and Robb have also continued Talbott’s pioneering tradition. In the 2012 vintage, Talbott completed their transition to screw caps for their entire portfolio, leading the way for other luxury producers. Talbott has also shown its commitment to stewardship and sustainability, embracing green practices in the vineyards, and switching to lighter eco-friendly bottles. Simply put, Talbott is firing on all cylinders.

Speaking of cylinders, while Robb doesn’t race motorcycles anymore, he still rides, and can occasionally be found traveling the beautiful vineyard-lined roads of Monterey. Recently, he combined his two great passions by opening a one-of-a-kind winery tasting room in Carmel Valley that also houses his vintage motorcycle collection. “Our Carmel Valley location is more than a tasting room; it’s an experience,” says Dan Karlsen. “Robb has always been dedicated to making wines that are singular and memorable. Now he’s created a home for our wines, which is equally unforgettable.”

For more information, visit www.talbottvineyards.com.

DION ST YLE • QUALITY • SER VICE

w w w. d i o n n e c k we a r. co m

men’s fashion

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Made-To-Measure

Several of us may have been saddened when the dotcom bubble burst, but Savile Row was jubilant...the suit is back! The made-to-measure boom is about more than just suits. It is fragrances and furniture, hats and shoes.

The new way is a very old way, and the benefits of today’s custom suits offer softer and lighter fabrics and unwavering comfort and fit.

This is not an old fogy trend. Its patrons are young and old, ambitious and successful, and that rare thing, the celebrity with taste.

The assumption is that made-to-measure suits are more for those seeking a distinctive fabric and a perfect fit. The reality is that made-to-measure is sometimes the best solution for guys whose body types simply require it. The best ready-to-wear suits at our store can still be slightly disproportionate to one’s dimensions. Made-tomeasure apparel available at The Clotherie can eliminate extensive alterations and ensure a flawless fit.

Our deep selection of tailor-made suits from Canali, Zegna, Samuelsohn, Jack Victor and Sartoria Partenopea and our custom dress shirts by Eton, Zegna and Canali are made from the best quality fabrics and are handmade with strict attention to detail.

Ready-to-wear suits are perfect for most occasions and most body types, but there may be a time when you want a look that expresses individual style and taste and, in some cases, a more specialized model. This is where our made-to-measure program comes in.

Why buy a made-to-measure suit?

For the extra-large guy, it important that your suit is neither too tight nor too loose. Smooth, soft fabrics and elongating patterns complement your physique. A slightly shorter jacket and pleated pants help proportionate the body. Shorter men need a perfect sleeve and jacket length. Too long or too short can accentuate their stature.

Proper placement of pockets is vital to the balance of a shorter jacket shape. Large guys look best in subdued colors and vertical pinstripes. Adding bold colored accessories can give zip to the look. Importance should be placed on proper shoulder, waist, and leg proportion in the suit shape. Round guys need more emphasis in the shoulder of the jacket to help slim the hips.

Individuality. You will never meet another man with the same suit as yours. A made-to-measure suit is made once and once only for you. As a result, the suit becomes an expression of your individual style. Since you and our staff select the fabric and style, you can add touches that will make it stand out: pockets, buttons, vents, cuffs, and linings.

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Perfect fit. While off-the-rack suits can be altered to suit your particular dimensions, they usually do not fit quite as well as one made specifically with you in mind. We take a host of measurements before the pattern is made and the fabric cut. Careful notes and measurements are taken on everything from the slope of your shoulders to the width of your thighs. Those measurements are sent to Italy or New York or Chicago and your suit will come back to us nearly complete. A fine-tuning fitting in our store completes the final detailed adjustments. The result will be a suit that hangs perfectly on your body and separates you from the crowd.

A style that suits you. In collaboration with our staff, you’ll find a suit that gives you a style that suits you best. Whether its two or three-button or a tapered waist, dark fabric or lighter colors, our made-to-measure program can accommodate what best matches your features, coloring, height, weight, shoulder width, and so on.

Longevity. Tailor-made suits from our preeminent sartorial houses are made from the best quality fabrics, with strict attention paid to the stitching. This will ensure that the suit lasts for many years.

Getting What You Want Clearly articulate what you are looking for and give it some time. A great suit is not made overnight, but amazingly you will probably be taking it home within a few weeks. Review men’s fashion journals and tear out several photos of suits with the elements that you like (a button here, a cuff there, a new lapel). Allow our sales staff to help you select a style that fits your body shape. There is always a difference between what you thought would look good when you saw it in a magazine and what actually complements your frame. And don’t forget the personal touches. Once you’ve decided on a basic style, we can add a few personal touches. Special buttons, pockets, or a particular lining will make the suit yours.

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Every successful man needs to be well-dressed for every eventuality, whether it be a specific occasion or a change in the weather. Purchasing a quality wardrobe is a tool for success and an investment in your future. Put away the old and find something new among our newest selections.

When the autumn’s wind blows in, here’s what to have in your closet:

Check theList

Fall wardrobe musts for the fashionable man

q q q q q

q q q

q

q

SUITS A minimum 5 for business (to be rotated every day) 1 gray 2-button in solid 1 gray pinstripe or glen plaid for fun 1 navy 2-button in solid 1 navy 2 or 3-button pinstripe for style 1 of the following, depending on profession: a. Power suit, e.g., chalk stripe b. Fun suit, e.g., tweed, or windowpane, or a different color (perhaps brown) SHIRTS A minimum 15–combination of the following: White and shades of blue Striped dress shirts Crossover shirts, i.e., 2 or 3 that can also be used for more casual dressing (darker colors for the new season) 2 or 3 for casual situations, e.g., darker colored stripes, prints, plaids, twills Collar styles, depending on personal style, office culture, and the environment in which you’ll be wearing it most

NECKWEAR 15 to 20–at least one to match each shirt q Darker colors, e.g., gray, burgundy, gold, or deep purple q A sales associate can help select appropriate colors and patterns.

Bring in your current shirts and find some new ones to achieve a

maximum number of appropriate combinations with fall’s new

color palette.

q

NAVY BLAZERS 1 for fall/winter (and a different one for spring/summer, as the weights differ for each season). The look is timeless and appropriate for any occasion.

q q q q

SPORT COATS 2, at a minimum, matched with the gray and khaki trousers to

maximize your wardrobe combinations q A ruff-hewn casual jacket that goes with jeans/everything else

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SWEATERS Zip cashmere, wool, and cotton to wear over sportshirts.

Turtleneck and vee-neck cable sweaters in fall’s new neutral shades of olive, khaki, noir, chocolate, and slate.

SHOES 5 pairs, for daily rotation and breathing of the leather q 3 or 4 pairs of leather soles

a. Black lace up and/or boot style

b. 2 or 3 brown, 1 of a medium color that’s in tune with

the season

1 q or 2 pairs with nonslip soles for inclement weather.

It’s a good idea to choose ones appropriate for the office.

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ACCESSORIES Umbrella Wool or cashmere socks Supple, fine leather gloves Cashmere scarf for soft comfort and warmth Ear muffs. Who likes cold ears?

Hat. They’re old school, but a snappy fedora can keep a lot of heat from escaping out the top of your head.

OVERCOATS Business wear — trim-fit gray or black full or three-quarter

length. Camel or brown also looks great. q Casual wear — car-length coat. Medium to heavy wool or

wool blend, or leather shearling. Step up!

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TROUSERS Khaki—heavy cotton, wool, or cashmere/wool Charcoal gray — wool or cashmere/wool Corduroy—navy, olive, rust, taupe...all colors, get crazy!

Jeans — yes, it’s time to update with premium, stylish denim!

Patented Internal Mesh Panels The revolutionary innovation of SAXX are the technical mesh panels in every pair. This comfort pouch keeps everything in place, preventing unwanted friction and movement to reduce chafe and allow contact free support.

Now available at The Clotherie

fashion accesories

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The pocket square is fall’s hottest fashion trend — and for good reason. It allows you to add color, class and sophistication to suits and sport jackets when worn with a tie or without.

hipsquare

get to the

M

My old boss Jesse always knew how to wear a pocket square.

He was the son of a European diplomat and had loads of old-world sophistication. A silk pocket square with a small, tasteful pattern was essential to his effortlessly put-together look.

Of course, my grandfather wore a hankie in the front jacket pocket of his best suit, but it looked like one he might actually use. Jesse’s squares, on the other hand, ran to rich silk and starched linens.

Squared away Jesse had a square artfully folded in every jacket I saw him wear, even the subtly plaid sport coats he donned on casual Friday.

For younger minions, casual Friday attire meant chinos and a polo shirt. For Jesse, it meant slacks with a military-sharp crease, a coordinating sport coat, and an open shirt.

That pocket square was one way he set himself apart. It was an indication of his self-confidence and experience, a subtle signal that said he always had the answers.

Jesse knew the rules of the pocket square. One rule is, don’t mismatch patterns. If you have a paisley pocket square, the pattern on your tie, scarf, or shirt should be simple. If you have a patterned shirt, let the shirt color dictate the pocket square — simply repeat color or colors in pattern or solid. Avoid the look that says “matching tie-and-square boxed gift set.”

Squares come in three basic fabrics: cotton, linen, and silk, in ascending order of formality. Cotton and linen typically come in a greater variety of patterns and colors.

For a polished corporate look, or a suit with a tie, select a pocket square that carries the same colors as the tie. Two separate patterns in one color is a good look, or opt for a solid square in a single color inspired by the tie.

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Walk into a party in a jacket with a square and you instantly become “the guy with a pocket square,” Which is not a bad thing, considering you’re in the company of Fred Astaire, Sean Connery, Frank Sinatra, and the rest of the Rat Pack. Don’t think of the square as solely for officewear or a tuxedo. It’s common to see the sophisticated casual look of a pair of premium denim jeans paired with a nice button down and blazer topped off with a silk scarf and pocket square.

A classic square makes an upscale finish to the corduroy or velvet sport coat, and it’s also at home with a classic plain sport coat in black or deep brown. These options pair well with jeans and slacks. For casualwear, break out the bold colors and patterns that might be overpowering at the office.

Fold your own Folding a pocket square may seem like an exercise in sartorial origami, but as with tie knots, find one or two you do well and stick with it. On the Internet, Wikipedia lists a dozen ways to fold a square. Let your mood and the setting guide you. A formal occasion may require a crisper, more formal fold. The straight edge of a white cotton or linen square peeking over the edge of a dark suit pocket indicates seriousness of purpose. For the party scene, a flopped and folded square stuffed just-so implies a relaxed feeling suitable for a night of fun on the town.

I don’t work with Jesse any more, but I have a silk square that cost a jaw-dropping amount of money that I pull out for important meetings. I like to think he’d be proud.

health & fitness

The

Hard Truth About

Hard Abs

The Internet has woven a rich mythology to address the ways that you, too, can get the same sizzling six-pack abs that you see on TV, in magazines, and on billboards. A quick search will summon before your eyes some of the silliest schemes the human mind has concocted. These crazy “proven” plans promise sexy, chiseled abs in 30 days or by working just minutes per day. Others tout that you only need to do one miracle exercise or avoid five certain foods. But if getting a six-pack were this easy, everyone and his brother would have a Baywatch body. Some people are blessed with high metabolism, are naturally lean, and can look amazing with very little upkeep. But for the rest of us, it takes time, dedication, proper exercise, a healthful diet, and maintenance.

So how can you land yourself a six-pack? Well, the truth is, you already have one!

Chances are, though, that your abdominal muscles may be somewhat underdeveloped and, well, protected by a few layers. Perhaps the biggest challenge to those seeking visible abs is getting rid of the stubborn belly fat that is covering them.

The belly — especially near the lower abdominals — is one of the first places that fat is stored and one of the last places from which it is burned up, making it a problem spot for most people. Don’t be fooled by the myth of spot reduction. Ripped, six-pack abs aren’t “just a million sit-ups away.” Getting rid of this stubborn belly flab requires cardio exercise. This type of exercise gets the heart pumping and burns body fat.

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So how can you land yourself a six-pack?

Well, the truth is, you already have one!

health & fitness After the first few pounds of melt away, the body’s metabolism will slow. This is the body’s way of entering a sort of survival mode. Whether one is at home working out to an aerobics DVD, running, dancing, jumping rope, or doing old-fashioned jumping jacks, this type of exercise will become increasingly more important. Some of the hardest fat to lose is that last bit that covers the abdominal muscles.

Safety must be kept in mind before starting any form of exercise. A good stretch should take place before and after every workout to loosen up the body and prevent injury. It is also very important to stay hydrated while working out. Be sure to drink plenty of water.

In addition to these fat-burning exercises, a healthful diet needs to be implemented.

Junk foods and alcohol will need to be severely limited or eliminated, as they are completely detrimental to weight loss. Saturated and trans fats should be avoided and replaced with monounsaturated fats, polyunsaturated fats, and omega-3 fatty acids.

In addition to limiting fats, limit salt intake as well. Salt causes the body to retain extra water and store it in the body as extra baggage. This water weight can cover up that six-pack just as easily as belly flab. Avoid canned or processed foods, as these often contain large amounts of salt. Most of the time, the fresh option will be the best option.

One sneaky item to be on the lookout for is sugar. Two hundred years ago the average American consumed only two pounds of sugar per year! Today, that average is about 150 pounds! Sugar burns like rocket fuel in the body, but most (if not all) people are physically unable to utilize all this energy, causing the body to store away the excess as fat. Avoid snack foods, candies, and soda, and look for the whole-grain option when buying bread products.

Fat-burning exercise and a healthful diet will uncover that sexy six-pack. The abdominal muscles can also be built up and toned by strengthening exercises.

Exercises like sit-ups, crunches, and leg lifts may not be good ways of burning body fat, but they are excellent ways to build up and tone lean muscle. These exercises will help you define that sixpack and achieve that chiseled look.

Every person’s body is different; some will see results sooner than others. But by exercising properly and eating healthy, you too can enjoy lean, ripped abs!

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clothing care

b y

M I C H E L E

S P O N A G L E

the dirt on dry cleaning At-home treatments and more. Oh, and, ummmm, find a dry cleaner you can trust!

There’s a moment of panic that sets in when you see that red wine start to sink into your white shirt. Yikes. You know it’s got to be cleaned and quick, but how? A frantic trip to the laundry room in search of stain removers?

Or a quick drop off at the nearest 24-hour dry cleaners? So begins the dilemma.

It’s not easy knowing which strategy you should adopt to protect your clothes and keep them looking as good as the day you bought them. The left part of your brain may be saying that you should leave it up to an expert dry cleaner. The right part may be saying that you can concoct a stain remover just as good as a professional one and save yourself some money. Stain? No pain.

Let’s resolve this conundrum with some savvy advice.

You love your leather jacket, but it has seen better days. It’s had beer spilled on it, been rained on, splattered with mud, salt stained, and coated with dust. Plus, it’s beginning to show some wear, and the inside lining could use some freshening up.

Sure, you can buy DIY leather cleaners, but be smart, and leave them on the shelves.

Let a professional dry cleaner tackle leather goods. Get a recommendation from a store that sells leather for the company it uses for its own repairs and cleaning. If just a minor spiffing up is needed, a damp cloth moistened in a bit of soapy water can be used to wipe off the grime.

Wool is a fantastic natural material, and no wardrobe is complete without an exquisitely tailored suit and some comfy, cozy sweaters. While it breathes wonderfully and is comfortable to wear, wool is notorious for stretching out of shape. Your beloved baggy cardigan could turn into a Barbie-sized model if mistreated with detergent and heat.

Let a quality dry cleaner treat your woolen goods right. They’ll use the proper temperature and solvents with the correct pH levels to clean them properly without 50

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altering the shape of the clothes. While you can hand-wash wool, it’s time consuming and you risk damaging the fibers, unless the pieces are handled gingerly while wet. And unless you want to wash a two-piece suit in your bathtub, home laundering isn’t really practical.

With easy at-home treatments, you can be a stain master. If your shirts show signs of ring around the collar, grab a bottle of shampoo from the bathroom. Rub a small

amount into the discolored area, leave it for a few minutes, and rinse. Didn’t quite do the trick? Shampoos formulated especially for gray hair can counteract the yellow cast around the collar. Shampoos are inexpensive and will often do the trick. No visit to the dry cleaner necessary. Another nifty inexpensive and chic stain treatment? Use plain white toothpaste (no gels, or colored varieties, please) to remove blood. Just rub a dab into the stain and rinse well.

Silk, cashmere, and linen feel wonderful to the touch, and they exude sophistication and luxury that other fabrics can’t match.

The flip side is they can be a challenge to care for, especially if you’re pondering a do-it-yourself approach. Trying to rub out that greasy stain leftover from last night’s Caesar salad is sure to induce angst. Silk is a delicate material and a haphazard cleaning can ruin it for good.

Enter the expert dry cleaner who will baby silk so that the stain is removed without compromising the wear of the garment.

And when it comes to pressing silk garments, easy does it, a low-temperature iron and a press cloth are needed to put all the creases in the right spots. Linen, too, poses ironing obstacles. It needs to be pressed while damp. Depending on your time and patience levels, you can attempt this at home.

Ick — your white shirts are starting to look yellow. Is there any saving them?

Yellowing in the underarms happens as a result of the natural salts and minerals in perspiration. As they age, they turn yellow.

Unfortunately regular detergents available at the grocery store aren’t strong enough to remove all the perspiration when you launder clothes.

After they’re washed, you throw them into the dryer and the heat causes the residual perspiration to yellow.

The situation can be grave, but professional dry cleaners have the tough stuff, industrial-strength solutions, to transform those yellowed spots snowy white, again. To prevent this from happening, wash whites regularly after wearing and apply stain remover or extra detergent on the underarm area to keep whites bright.

There are people who think that anything can be washed at home. Unfortunately this is blissfully naïve thinking. Your dry cleaner is your friend with the expertise and the tools to treat clothes the right way.

If you’re still puzzled about whether to dry clean or not, ponder these questions: Is the garment special to you? Is it expensive and high quality, something in which you invested a fair bit of cash? Is the cause of a stain or spot a mystery? Does it have a great deal of structure — like pleats — that will make ironing tortuous? If the word yes came to mind, even once, in answer to these questions, let the pros do the job.

Great style is timeless, and with the right handle-with-care approach, your relationship with your favorite pieces will continue and thrive.

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