THE NEW CHALLENGE OF CONVERTING FLAVOURED TEAS TO ORGANIC

Thanks to its ability to retain scents, tea is an exceptional vehicle for aromas. Apart from picking the leaves and controlling the oxidation, the process of creating flavoured teas and infusions can be likened to the art of the perfumer. New regulations are leading organic tea producers to explore new blends, which is always a good thing!

By Mathias Minet

The tradition of flavoured teas

In the world of gastronomy, tea has always been special for the longstanding practice of scenting its leaves with freshly picked petals, natural essences, fruit peel and spices. Whether green, black or semi-oxidised, tea can be flavoured with different ingredients and has a tremendous ability to absorb scents. In China, the most popular flavoured tea is jasmine. It has been produced for centuries using a lengthy and meticulous method and has travelled across the continents (see Bruits de Palais 82, p. 32 ff.). Indian chai, a blend of tea and spices, is one of the best-known flavoured teas. And in around 1830, the British gave us the now internationally popular Earl Grey tea thanks to the fortuitous addition of a few drops of essential oil of bergamot to a cup of tea. From the 1950s, the wider range of flavourings available meant that tea merchants could offer endless and creative variations. The history of tea is therefore closely linked to these aromatic blends. The addition of flavours to tea should always enhance the tasting experience rather than be a substitute for the qualities of the tea itself.

What are the new organic regulations?

It is this special quality that led creators of flavoured teas and infusions to review their practices and inspiration when applying the new European directives for the transition to organic food products. Organic standards are the most demanding in the food industry, and apply to tea (see Bruits de Palais 83, p. 14 ff.). According to the new regulation, which came into force in Europe on 1 January 2022, certified “organic” tea can only contain flavourings made from at least 95% of the fruit or flower after which they are named (for the different flavouring categories, see pp. 18-19). If other aromatic compounds are added to the flavouring – even if they are derived solely from organic ingredients – the tea cannot be labelled “organic”. To overcome this technical and creative challenge, the tea industry has invested and adapted so that it can continue to offer flavoured blends. A comprehensive review of recipes was accompanied by a reassessment of creative and production methods.

Re-exploring flavoured blends

Flavoured tea blends – not including traditional teas with flowers, spices, etc. – are unique in the food industry. For example, a yoghurt manufacturer can replace a strawberry flavouring with real strawberry (it will probably cost more but will generally improve the product in terms of taste and perhaps even health). However, the maker of a strawberry-flavoured tea cannot add the fruit to the tea in its natural form. This is because at present it is extremely difficult technically and disappointing from a taste perspective to extract flavours from fresh fruits, especially those with a high water content. The tea would be less flavourful and would also lose the lighter, fresh notes that make it so special. And when dried, a fruit like the strawberry turns sticky and would clump together with the tea leaves. So in order to offer organic flavoured blends, we had to completely revise the choice of ingredients and eliminate many. After research and tests in collaboration with flavour specialists, we have found new options. It has been a long process, which began two years ago at Palais des Thés, but thankfully, working with tea has taught us the art of patience! There have been some setbacks along the way, but above all it has been fascinating.

To make the transition to organic with our existing flavoured blends, we essentially need to reproduce the same flavour characteristics using different ingredients, to avoid disappointing our tea enthusiasts. The tea creator must therefore rely on both science and technological innovations (in particular developments in terms of extraction, drying, smoking, and so on) and on sensory explorations. For example, to bring a slightly sweet vanilla note to a flavoured blend, in addition to using vanilla pods, a natural ingredient such as carob has turned out to be an ideal partner, while cocoa nibs offer delicious sweet, spicy notes. Natural ingredients that were previously little explored by tea blenders are now being used in recipes.

2026

The deadline set by Palais des Thés for all its teas, infusions and flavoured blends to be organic. Healthy teas that respect the planet.

Each tea requires the right combination of notes, which is achieved through the complex art of balancing teas with flavourings. This involves achieving a synergy between the tea leaves, which have their own character, and the flavourings. It demands experience and creativity. Even before a tea is tasted, its bouquet should be appealing. Mathias Minet, who creates our flavoured teas at Palais des Thés, draws inspiration from his imagination, senses and memories to devise each tea. These qualities then resonate with the person who drinks the tea, allowing them to share the same experience.

Flavours And Feelings

24%

To date, 24% of Palais des Thés’ flavoured blends meet European legislation for organic products.

One year

Where it previously took three to 12 months to finalise a flavoured tea recipe, today for an organic tea it takes more than a year.

Flavoured teas for you and with you

In the space of two years, the palette of flavourings used in Palais des Thés’ organic flavoured blends has greatly expanded. This is good news for both us and for tea-lovers. In fact, our Theophile customers were invited to taste some blends in stores and provide feedback, thereby contributing to the creation of their favourite teas (see also p. 19). This joint venture is all about one thing: taste! •