San Bartolome Fort

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San Bartolomé Fort Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications

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San BartolomĂŠ Fort Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications

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San BartolomĂŠ Fort Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications

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San Bartolomé Fort Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications Publisher: Authors:

Pamplona Town Council, Strategic Planning José Vicente Valdenebro García, José Ignacio Alfonso Pezonaga, Marta Monreal Vidal, Miguel Monreal Vidal, Juan José Martinena Ruiz (The walled enclosure of Pamplona) Coordinator: José Vicente Valdenebro García Production: Formas de Proyectar Translation: David Ronder (Architrad) Photography: Berta Buzunáriz, Luis Prieto, General Archive of Simancas (AGS), Pamplona Municipal Archive (AMP), Institute of Military History and Culture (IHCM) and Army Geographical Service (SGE) Printing: Litografía Ipar ISBN: D.L.:

978-84-95930-47-7 NA–827/2011

Publication © Pamplona Town Council Texts and photographs © their authors Pamplona, March 2011 www.pamplona.es www.murallasdepamplona.com Printed on TCF paper free of acids and dioxins, biodegradable and recyclable.

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Index

Introduction

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The walled enclosure of Pamplona

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Historical Evolution of San Bartolomé Fort

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Restoration of the San Bartolomé Fort

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for use as the Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications

A walk round the Pamplona Fortifications.

Visual guide Glossary Route of the tour inside the back cover

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Introduction

The history of San Bartolomé Fort – which today lies at the centre of our city – goes back to the 17th century, when the walled enclosure of Pamplona underwent a significant set of improvements. Over the course of its history, the structure served as a defensive bastion and the first line of defence of the reinforced stronghold.

Today, nearly 300 years later, 21st-century Pamplona inaugurates it, newly restored, as the Interpretation Centre for our city’s fortifications It is also to be the starting point for tours round the walled enclosure and, of course, a museum dedicated to this collection of cut stones that defines the structure and personality of our city.

Since 2006, Pamplona Town Council has been working on the restoration and improvement of the walled enclosure, with comprehensive cleaning and restoration operations on its structures and the building of new infrastructures relating to the wall, such as the Labrit walkway and Descalzos lifts and San Bartolomé Fort itself.

In this sense, the 220 square metres of the Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications constitute an exceptional platform for relaunching the walls of Pamplona as a cultural and leisure space, as much for visiting tourists as for us Pamplonans, presenting us with the opportunity to rediscover a dazzling part of our historical heritage.

The walled enclosure, as the municipal web site www.murallasdepamplona.com fully acknowledges, is intimately connected with the development and evolution of Pamplona. It is a living infrastructure which preserves the reflection of the passing decades and which, paradoxically, has progressed from defining the limits of the city to a place at the very heart of the modern metropolis.

The richness and history of the Pamplona walls, which were declared a National Monument in 1939, should in future serve as the unshakable motivation for fostering their proper conservation and promotion so that the generations to come might have the opportunity to enjoy, as we have done, this magnificent piece of our heritage.

For all these reasons, I hope that this publication and all the initiatives aimed at promoting the cultural wealth of Pamplona are welcomed by her citizens, and that we can continue to count on their participation. I am confident that this work will prove an excellent means of disseminating the rich history of Pamplona.

Yolanda Barcina Mayoress of Pamplona

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The walled enclosure of Pamplona [by Juan José Martinena Ruiz]

The walls of Pamplona are today one of the most interesting sets of defences in Spain - and even Europe - as regards bastioned fortification. Built in the 16th and 17th centuries, and completed in the 18th, they remained intact until 1920. One of their fronts having been demolished to allow for the second enlargement of the city, the remaining part was declared a National Monument. Here we are not referring to the walls of the medieval boroughs which made up medieval Pamplona, of which hardly anything remains to us.

Nor to the artillery castle that Ferdinand the Catholic ordered to be built in 1513, a year after the conquest of the kingdom by the Duke of Alba’s Castilian forces, and in the defence of which Jesuit founder Iñigo de Loyola would fall wounded in 1521; not the slightest trace of that fortress is left to us either.

We will begin our historical tour in the reign of Charles V, from whose time the oldest part of the existing walled enclosure dates, an essential element in the historic heritage of the city.

Works in the time of Charles V. The first bastions The reign of Charles I – Charles V once he became Holy Roman Emperor in 1520 – saw the initiation of work to adapt the old medieval enclosure to the latest advances in the art of fortification. Following the Franco-Agramontese siege of 1521, the walls were repaired all the way round and several of the old towers demolished as defensively useless, and in their place bastions were erected, designed in accordance with the new canons of military engineering. That same

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Pamplona in 1521. To the north, the Royal Palace, then occupied by the Viceroy; and to the south, Ferdinand the Catholic’s castle (model by Juan Mª Cía).

year work took place on the one known as Caparroso – now the Labrit Bastion – and on the Tejería Gate, and in 1523 on the Tesoreria Tower – now the Redín Bastion – and on the Francia or Abrevador gate. The Crown had to compensate the owners of the houses and smallholdings that it was necessary to expropriate.

It also had to demolish and move the convents of San Francisco and La Merced inside; they were in La Taconera, outside the old gates of La Traición and San Llorente, and were deemed detrimental to the fortification. In 1530 the Viceroy ordered that the San Lorenzo Tower be scaled back, as its great height meant that it was considered a padrastro (stepfather) - or point from which it would be possible to harm the fortress.

Dating from 1535 is the master builder Guevara’s plan to build a bastion over the Caparroso mill and another on the so-called Torredonda (Round Tower) near the corner of the Paseo de Sarasate and Calle Navas de Tolosa. Of these, the Torredonda barely stood for fifty years, while the Caparroso, with subsequent modifications, has survived to our own time as the Labrit Bastion. A turret was

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also built in front of San Lorenzo, making use of the materials left by the demolition of the San Francisco convent. Around this time, the prestigious siege warfare specialist Benedicto de Rávena passed through Pamplona and wrote a report on the city fortifications. In 1542 Captain Luis Pizaño came too, one of the best engineers of the age, to try and put the finishing touches to the fortifications with as little expense as possible.

Pizaño drew some plans of Labrit Bastion and the castle built by Ferdinand the Catholic which are kept in the Simancas Archive. The engineer proposed lowering the towers of San Lorenzo, San Nicolás and San Cernin, as well as some fortified properties and several of the Cathedral buildings. However, it seems that only San Nicolás Tower had its top lopped off, being the one closest to the fortress.

In these years work continued on the Torredonda, on the San Llorente turret and on the garrison over the Caparroso mill.

Also remaining to us from the age of Charles V, along with the Redín and Labrit bastions, is the Francia Gate. Over its innermost door, which preserves the runners the portcullis went down, a beautiful carved shield can be seen with the two-headed eagle and the imperial arms beneath an inscription which reads: AÑO 1553 DUCE BELTRANO ALBVRQVERQVE PROREGE Another shield with the same inscription was on the vanished Rochapea Gate, demolished in 1914 and which also dated from 1553, when that same Don Beltrán was viceroy. In 1960 the shield was placed for ornamental reasons on one of the towers of the Nuevo Gate, the monumental arch built by Victor Eúsa in 1950.

Philip II and the building of the citadel The reign of Philip II marked the start of a new phase in fortifications work. In 1560 the engineer Antonelli visited the city and informed the King that the construction of a new fortress in the modern style was of the greatest urgency.

The monarch took heed and 1571 – the year of the Battle of Lepanto – marked the start of construction of the Citadel to the design of Giacomo Palearo, known as El Fratín. This engineer planned it in imitation of the Antwerp one, itself the work

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Aerial view of the Pamplona Citadel.

of Paciotto de Urbino, laid out on a pentagon with five bastions at the angles, to be baptised with the names San Antón, San Felipe el Real, Santa María, Santiago and La Victoria.

The first stone was solemnly blessed on 12 July. The first keeper was the chief inquisitor’s nephew Hernando de Espinosa, and the first garrison entered on 18 October under the command of Captain Alonso de Cosgaya. The Italian-born Viceroy Vespasiano Gonzaga, a noted siege warfare specialist, took an active part in the new fortification, even though his excessive zeal often put him on a collision course with the Navarrese. It would take many years before the new fortress, fundamental to the defence of the western Pyrenees, could be considered completely finished. Above the main gate, which opens onto the present-day Avenida del Ejército, a stone plaque can be seen with the following inscription:

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THE YEAR 1571 BEING VICEROY AND FIE LD MARSHALL IN NAVARRE AND THE PROVINCE BESPASIANO GONZAGA COLONA, DUKE, MARQUIS AND COUNT The construction of the Citadel entailed, around 1580, the laying down of a new line of fortifications to connect with those of the city. The line incorporated two fronts: one from the Citadel to the Labrit Bastion, which took in the new bastions of San Nicolás (with the gate of the same name) and La Reina plus the Tejería Gate. This front would be demolished in 1918-21, to facilitate the Segundo Ensanche (Second Enlargement). The other front, which still survives with some modifications, went from the Citadel to the Mirador (Lookout) and included the Taconera Gate, whose facade would be knocked down in 1906 and rebuilt in 2002, and its eponymous bastion, along with that of the Gonzaga, near the Nuevo Gate. This expansion of the enclosure rendered the old medieval wall useless, in spite of very costly work having been carried out on it during the reign of Charles V; it ran down the present-day Paseo de Sarasate, Calle Navas de Tolosa, Rincón de la Aduana, San Lorenzo, Plaza de Recoletas and Plazuela de la O. The layout of the new walls, which took in the previously extramural Taconera field and included what is now the Paseo de Sarastre, defined what would be urban Pamplona until the construction of the Primer Ensanche (First Enlargement), approved in 1887, and even up till the demolition of the walls.

At first, these new fortifications were made throughout of earth or filler, with palisades and moats dug in the ground. In 1581, García de Mendoza reported that “it is all of fascine and crumbling earth”. Three years later, Philip II wrote to the engineer Fratín about the need to knock down the old walls and fill in the moats; that was when the bastions of Torre Redonda and San Lorenzo were demolished.

Also at around that time the Viceroy Marquis of Almazán ordered the laying down of the present-day Calle Nueva, filling in the moat that separated the boroughs of San Cernin and San Nicolás with the materials resulting from the demolition of the walls and medieval towers that were there. In 1585, the Council of War made the case to the King for the need to carry on with Citadel works, leaving the old

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Picture of Taconera Bastion and San Roque Ravelin.

castle standing until they were done. However, the lack of resources meant they had to demolish Ferdinand the Catholic’s fortress as they went, so they could make use of its materials in the new walls and bastions. El Fratín was denounced to the King for just that - the denunciation accompanied by a curious drawing, kept today in the Simancas Archive, showing the state of works and how they were being carried out. Such rivalries between the engineers marked the end of the 16th century. In 1592, Antonio de Herrera submitted a memorial against Vespasiano Gonzaga and El Fratín. In November of that year, Philip II visited the Citadel works, and seventy artillery pieces fired salvoes from its as yet unfinished parapets.

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According to a report by the engineer Francisco Fratín, in 1608 the new wall of the San Nicolás and Taconera fronts was still “built and formed solely of earth, and it being so many years since it was done it has been falling and is in many places collapsed...and oxen and other animals can get out, as the moats prove little obstacle”. That same year, Philip III ordered that the citadel be surrounded with a stockade to prevent access to the moat, which lacked a counterscarp and was two thirds dry. The Viceroy Cardona had the good judgement to make his opposition to this measure plain, arguing that it was better to spend the money on a permanent stone construction.

Reign of Philip IV. Completion of the enclosure During the reign of Philip IV, the works gained considerable momentum. From an account sent by Dionisio de Guzmán in 1644, we know that work was then taking place on the Taconera Gate and the half moon defending it. Another four were being built in the Citadel moats. That same year the Tejería portal was finished, on a flank of La Reina Bastion. It was situated on what is today Calle de Juan de Labrit, next to the back of the Gayarre Theatre. It proudly bore on its facade the royal coat of arms and on both sides those of the Viceroy Count of Oropesa and Luis of Guzmán and Ponce of León. Following its demolition in 1918, the three shields were placed on the gate to the Citadel.

In April 1646 Philip IV visited Pamplona, and among the engagements marking his stay in the city was a lengthy visit to the citadel. Velázquez’s son-in-law, Martínez del Mazo, painted a large commemorative canvas of the arrival of the royal procession at the main gate. That same year, during the viceroyship of Don Luis de Guzmán Ponce de León, the fortress’s new church opened for worship; it would remain standing until 1890.

In 1665-66, under the Viceroy Duke of San Germán, the walled enclosure was declared finished with the completion of the Taconera and La Reina bastions.

The first of those bastions survives in the gardens of the same name, though around 1945 its embrasures were removed to prettify the walk. The second, knocked down around 1920, was situated roughly between the present-day Church of San Ignacio and the Telephone Exchange. On one of its faces the following inscription can be read:

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IN THE REIGN OF PHILIP IIII AND BEING VICEROY AND FIELD MARSHAL OF THIS KINGDOM AND OF GVIPUZCOA DON FRco TVTAVILA, DVKE OF SAN GERMAN. IN THE YEAR 1665 Reign of Charles (Carlos) II. New gates and external defences In 1666, with Charles II the Bewitched already on the throne and with the same duke being viceroy, the two new gates of San Nicolás and Taconera were finished.

The facade of the former, dressed and decorated with the royal arms of the House of Austria and of the Viceroy, is preserved today in the Taconera Gardens, where it serves as a front for the Bosquecillo (Copse) that it was moved to in 1929. The Taconera one, dismantled in 1906, was made almost identical to that of San Nicolás, though without the columns flanking the arch. It was faithfully reconstructed on its former site in 2002. The inscription, like that on the San Nicolás Gate, says the following: IN THE REIGN OF CHARLES II, AND REGENCY OF THE QUEEN HIS MOTHER, AND BEING VICEROY AND FIELD MARSHAL OF THIS KINGDOM AND OF GVIPUZCOA DON FRco TVTAVILA, DVKE OF SAN GERMAN. IN THE YEAR 1666.

External works such as counterguards, half moons and ravelins dominated the last third of the 17th century, completing the defence of the main wall. In 1678, under the Viceroy Count of Fuensalida, the Nuevo Gate, previously known as Santa Engracia, and representing the way into the city from the royal Vitoria road, had to be rebuilt. It was dismantled in 1906 to make it easier for vehicles to pass, and acquired its present form in 1950. At this time the military engineers Juan de Ledesma and Octaviano Menni were working in Pamplona. In 1685, The Viceroy Prince of Simay proposed to the King their substitution by Esteban Escudero and Manuel Gasco. The former immediately developed a new plan for carrying the works forward, for which the Viceroy asked Parliament the following year for a new donation. The city, he said, was “one of the main strongholds in Spain”, and yet did not have a defensive system appropriate to its border

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situation. To raise funds, towns and cities were forced to mortgage their estates and assets. The parapets were finished with the money, the lunettes and moat scarps faced with stone, and new half moons built for the Taconera, San Nicolás and Tejería gates.

The year before -1684 - a letter by the Marquis of Conflans on the lamentable state of the Citadel resulted in the Kingdom’s contribution to financing the fortification works increasing to 30,000 ducats.

At that time, the fortress garrison amounted to only 50 soldiers. The following year, when Don Enrique Benavides was viceroy, another 10,000 ducats were given for the external fortifications: the two ravelins of Santa Clara and Santa Isabel with their respective counterguards facing towards the Vuelta del Castillo (Castle Surround), already bearing some relation to the new defensive systems of Vauban, the engineer who revolutionised the art of fortification as it then was. Both ravelins, which replaced the old lunettes, have stone plaques next to the coat of arms of the above-mentioned viceroy with the following inscription: IN THE REIGN OF CHARLES II OF CASTILE AND OF NAVARRE VICEROY AND FIELD MARSHALL OF THIS KINGDOM D. ENRIQUE BENAVIDES I BAZAN, OF THE COUNCIL OF STATE. IN THE YEAR 1685 In 1694, the engineer Hércules Torelli estimated a cost of 225,000 ducats for the most essential external works. In the main enclosure, work was carried out on the Trinitarios front – now the Taconera lookout – and on the Gonzaga Bastion. A report sent to the Royal Historical Academy in 1801 says: “From the several inscriptions that there are on the gates and walls of the City and Citadel, it is clear that they were built during the reign of Charles (Carlos) II, from 1666 to 1696.” This statement is not accurate, for as we have seen, important works were realised throughout the 16th century, first under Charles V and then above all Philip II. What was done in the time of Charles II was to finish off the essentials of the enclosure. Even so, some things left a lot to be desired. In 1699 the Marquis of Góngora complained that livestock wandered freely over the parapets

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and embrasures and the garrison was so paltry that there weren’t enough soldiers to guard the city’s six gates.

The House of Bourbon. The work of the new Corps of Engineers Once the War of Spanish Succession was over in 1714, Philip V, the first monarch of the House of Bourbon, dedicated his special attention to Pamplona. In 1719, with the danger of war against France looming, work was undertaken at various points of the enclosure. Some years before, in 1711, the same king had set up the Corps of Army Engineers, in imitation of the one that Louis XIV had much earlier established in France. Between 1720 and 1737 there was a period of intense activity, preserving the greater part of the designs of the master engineer the Marquis of Verboom, first director of the Corps, who we know maintained contact with Vauban from 1702.

Then began the improvement of the defences of the Redín and the Francia Gate with the construction of the low bastions of El Pilar and Our Lady of Guadalupe, together with the Los Reyes Ravelin. This magnificent fortified complex survives intact to the present and has been restored by the “Príncipe de Viana” Institute.

The forts of San Bartolomé, San Roque and El Príncipe were also begun at this time. The first of them survives perfectly intact in the Media Luna Gardens, behind the Plaza de Toros (Bullring). The second, now vanished, stood outside the Taconera wall, near to where the military swimming pools and the Larraina club are today. Part of the masonry plinth of the third one is still visible, on which the old junior school “Ruiz de Alda” was built around 1945, today the children’s home “Fuerte el Príncipe”.

Verboom also got involved, together with Don Ignacio Sala and other engineers, in several projects carried out in the Citadel. One of these was the new Socorro Gate, which until then had stood up against a flank of the Santa María Bastion.

On the facade, with its Tuscan order columns, the following (Latin) inscription can be read beneath the quartered shield of Castile and Leon: HAEC PORTA AUXILII SURGIT REGNANTE PHILIPO CERTA OBSESSORUM SPES PATRIAE QUI . . . S . . .US

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Low bastions of Our Lady of Guadalupe and El Pilar, with the Los Reyes Ravelin in the centre.

A series of thirteen bomb-proof vaults was also built, and the so-called Sala de Armas (Weapons Hall) or Artillery Arsenal, which these days is used for conferences, concerts and exhibitions.

In 1752, in the reign of Ferdinand VI, fortification work was resumed on the facade of the Francia Gate, and finished six years later with the construction of the sentry boxes at the angles of the new bastions; these are of the same type as can be seen in various castles and forts in Cuba, Puerto Rico and other Latin American countries that were once Spanish viceroyalties. In 1756, the Count of Aranda commissioned Don Jer贸nimo Amici to write a report on the state of the walls of the city and Citadel of Pamplona. According to this engineer, the Rochapea and La Magdalena fronts required most attention, having always been neglected and trust put instead in their dominant position with the River Arga as

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A view of the San Nicolás and Tejería fronts, which were demolished between 1918 and 1921, superimposed on urban Pamplona.

a natural moat, in contrast to the San Nicolás front, where the walls were sunk down into the ground, leaving the city houses exposed.

That same year, General Don Juan Martín Zermeño wrote another report, in which he proposed getting rid of the Francia Gate as unnecessary and transferring the Taconera one to the Mirador side, away from the Citadel. None of these proposals

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- not even the bomb-proof vaults - was adopted, without doubt because of the difficulty the Royal Treasury would have meeting their considerable cost.

When war broke out against the French Republican Convention in 1794, small provisional forts were built and an entrenched line dug from El Príncipe to Mendillorri. The military authority, licensed by a Royal Warrant from Charles V, ordered that all buildings situated less than 1,500 yards from the wall be pulled down, a measure which affected several monasteries and chapels and many houses in the districts of La Magdalena, Rochapea, Santa Engracia, San Jorge, Trinitarios and San Juan. Protests were made to Parliament and the Town Hall by the thousand-plus people affected, but nothing came of it. As a result of this war, in which the enemy was at the gates of Pamplona, the engineers Heredia, Casanova, Masdeu, and Jiménez Donoso - and above all the lieutenant general Hurtado – drew up important fortification plans which, primarily for economic reasons, never came to be realised.

As for the Citadel, it needs to be said that during the 18th century and part of the 19th, it served as a state prison, much like the Bastille did for the French crown. Locked up in its cells were, among others, the Duke of Medinaceli in the War of Spanish Succession, the Count of Floridablanca in 1792, Mariano Luis de Urquijo in 1801, Javier Mina in 1811 and the liberal poet Manuel José Quintana from 1814 till 1820.

Occupation of the Citadel by the French. Other sieges in the 19th century It is a known fact that the French occupied Pamplona in 1808 without firing a single shot. The city received them as allies before the start of the Spanish War of Independence, and confounding the good faith of the Viceroy Marquis of ValleSantoro, on 19 February General D’Armagnac’s soldiers, going to collect their provisions, took the Citadel by pretending to have a snowball fight. Pamplona suffered five years of harsh military occupation until 1813, when it took a 128day siege to regain her. Before surrendering, the French laid mines with the intention of blowing up the walls. When General Count de España heard about this, he warned the French Governor that, if they did, his men would have knives run through them, which persuaded him to abandon the idea. Following recovery of the city, Brigadier Palomino presented a budget in which the cost of the most

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necessary repairs was calculated at 528,000 reals (real = an old Spanish coin, worth a quarter of a peseta).

In 1823, Franco-Spanish troops, largely made up of the so-called Hundred Thousand Sons of Saint Louis under the command of General Lauristón, laid siege to the city, whose garrison had gone over to the liberals, in order to subjugate it the authority of Ferdinand VII, whom they sought to restore as absolute king. Brigadier Sánchez Salvador led the defence, and the blockade lasted for five months during which there were several bombardments. The Citadel was shelled with eight 24-inch batteries, and capitulated on 17 September. During the O’Donnell uprising of October 1841, the city was bombarded by the Citadel’s artillery, causing damage to the old medieval tower of San Lorenzo, which had to be lowered by a third. In 1858, the military engineers Ortiz de Pinedo and Rodríguez Arroquia developed a fortification plan that proposed the total destruction of the old enclosure raised by the House of Austria and replacing it with a series of equal fronts, based on bastions with casemates on their flanks, three-level curtain walls and caponiers in place of the old half moons and ravelins.

Its exorbitant cost meant that it never came into being.

After the last Carlist War, in which Pamplona suffered a lengthy blockade, the reach of modern groove-bore artillery was plain to see. Carlist missiles had shot across the city from Mount San Cristóbal, flying over the houses. In view of that, doubts began to surface about the defensive efficacy of the walled enclosure which was also impeding the town’s expansion like a rigid corset. Following construction of the San Cristóbal Fort, steps were taken towards securing the authorisation to demolish them. That would be the overarching objective of the town councils of the next forty years.

Mutilation of the Citadel and alteration of the gates In 1888 a Royal Order authorised the partial demolition of the Citadel bastions San Antón and La Victoria – and the decommissioning of the moats separating it from the city to enable construction of the Primer Ensanche (First Enlargement) and new barracks. These were in turn demolished in 1970, and today the Avenida del Ejército runs down there. During the excavation works prior to the building of the current Auditorium and Conference Hall, the remains of the Santa Teresa

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lunette came to light; it had defended the main gate, with its moats and counterscarp, which were sadly destroyed. All that is left is part of the wall of the mutilated San Antón Bastion, reassembled in one of the rooms of the new cultural centre.

In 1905, another Royal Order allowed for the partial demolition of four of the six gates, to give broader access to the city. That same year the Taconera was dismantled, under the direction of the architect Julián Arteaga and in 1906 San Nicolás too. It had a new bridge built, aligned with the Avenida de San Ignacio, and its baroque facade was taken down, to be reconstructed in 1929 in the Taconera Gardens. Almost at the same time the Nuevo Gate was broadened, with a steel footbridge placed over it that lasted until 1950, when the current monumental gate was built, the work of Víctor Eúsa. In 1914 the Rochapea Gate was also altered, its stone arch demolished. Of the other city gates, Tejería suffered not a single modification until it was knocked down in 1918, and Francia or Zumalacárregui survive intact to the present.

Demolition of the walls and subsequent declaration as a National Monument Finally, on 7 January 1915, when Don Alfonso de Gaztelu was mayor, the Royal Order authorising demolition of the walled belt was obtained, allowing for construction of the Segundo Ensanche (Second Enlargement). The first stone was pulled down, amid popular rejoicing, on 25 July of the same year. The demolition works, which lasted from 1918 until 1921, affected the southern front of the city, and led to the disappearance of the San Nicolás and La Reina bastions, as well as San Nicolás and La Tejería gates. The fortifications to be knocked down went from the Citadel to the Labrit Bastion, approximating to today’s Calle de García Ximénez, Avenida de Roncesvalles and Bajada de Labrit. No-one considered the possibility of laying out the new streets at a certain distance, respecting the walls and surrounding them with a green belt, as would be done half a century later with the Citadel and Vuelta del Castillo (Castle Surround).

The three quarters part of the walled enclosure that remained standing after 1921, comprising the El Príncipe and San Bartolomé forts, Labrit Bastion, Ronda de Barbazán, Redín Bastion with the low bastions of Pilar and Guadalupe, Rochapea and Descalzos fronts, the Mirador with La Taconera Bastion and the

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View of the now-vanished parts of the San Nicolás Gate and La Reina Bastion. Inaugural act of demolition of the walls. 25 July 1915. A. Gª Deán. AMP

San Roque Ravelin, was declared a National Monument By Order on 25 September 1939. Around 1925 the Taconera Mirador was altered, with the old Gonzaga Bastion being pulled down and partially buried to widen the gardens and connect them with the Larraina area.

Cession of the Citadel to the city The Citadel with its buildings, moats and external structures was ceded to the city

by State Decree on 21 May 1964 for cultural and leisure pursuits. The ceremony marking the taking of possession by the Town Council was held on 23 July 1966, when Juan Miguel Arrieta was mayor and General Ramiro Lago military governor.

From 1971 the buildings inside it were demolished, with just the 1760 guardhouse and the following buildings being spared: the late 16th-century oven; what was known as the pabellón de mixtos (gunpowder block), dating from the

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Ropemakers working in the moats of the now-vanished La Reina Bastion. c.1915. AMP

late 17th century and altered at the start of the 18th, which served as the old storehouse, granary and cellar; the magazine designed by HĂŠrcules Torelli in 1694; and the weapons hall or artillery arsenal, designed in 1725. All were skilfully restored.

The fortress was declared a National Monument by decree on 8 February 1973.

Today it constitutes one of Pamplona’s most beautiful spots, a harmonious combination of walls and bastions with wide green spaces extending over the glacis and moats of the old fortification.

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Historical Evolution of San Bartolomé Fort

From the moment Pompeyo set up camp in 74 BC around where the Cathedral stands today, Pamplona acquired its status as a stronghold. Its strategic position giving it control over the western Pyrenean passes into the Iberian peninsula towards Aragón and La Rioja meant that it came to be regarded as “one of the principal keys to Spain and its most secure bulwark on this side of the border” (Madrazo, 1886). Since Roman times, therefore, and apart from on specific occasions when the walls were destroyed, Pamplona was always a fortified stronghold right up to the early years of the 20th century.

From the first Roman settlement in what is today La Navarrería, the walled enclosure grew and was modified throughout the medieval period, when new boroughs were built in the vicinity of the city, distinguished from each other by populations of different origin attracted by the improvements made to the pilgrim road to Santiago de Compostela. From that time three distinct cities coexisted, each with their own different walls, and separated by moats or “no man’s land”: the city of Navarrería (which until 1276 included the Borough of San Miguel), the Borough of San Cernin and the Town of San Nicolás. With the unification of the boroughs under Charles III in 1423 by means of the “Privilegio de la Unión”, these defences were adapted to form a single walled enclosure defending the whole city, joined to the existing palaces and the medieval castle.

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In 1513, after conquering the Kingdom of Navarre, Ferdinand the Catholic ordered the construction of the Santiago Castle and set about modernising, widening and reinforcing the walled enclosure of the medieval city. Later, responding to advances in military engineering, Philip ordered in 1571 that a modern, functional citadel be built to replace the old castle, its pentagonal geometry making it the first such construction on the Iberian Peninsula.

To do it, he had at his disposal the fortifications engineer Jacobo Palear “El Fratín” and Field Marshall Vespasiano Gonzaga y Colonna, Duke of Trajetto, Marquis of Sabioneda and Count of Fondi, who would end up being appointed Viceroy of Navarre. Both had Italian backgrounds, where military engineering had progressed spectacularly in the previous decades. Taking the Antwerp Citadel as a model, the Pamplona works began that same year with a dual purpose: to defend the city against external attack and to avoid potential revolt within. They continued into the next century and after successive improvements to the fortification they were concluded in the 18th century.

They layout of the citadel, rather further away from the city than was initially advised by the experts, made it necessary to build two whole fronts of the city defences anew, so that it joined up with the Old Castle. The southern and western fronts were thus rendered useless and were almost entirely dismantled. That meant pulling down on its southern side the old Santiago Castle and San Antón bastion, two of the city’s most modern defences, if now falling behind the times with the advance or the new military techniques.

The new defensive line took in four new bastions on the western side: Gonzaga, barely recognisable today; Taconera, which can still be seen in the gardens of the same name; and San Nicolás and La Reina, which were demolished around 1920. Four new gates were also opened: Puerta Nueva, in 1675; Taconera and San Nicolás, in 1666; and Tejería, in 1640.

In 1685, during the reign of Charles II, construction began of five ravelins which contributed to the external defence of the city: Santa Clara, Santa

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Isabel, Santa Ana, Santa Teresa (now vanished) and Santa Lucía. Of these, the first two were endowed with counterguards. The San Roque Ravelin, between the Taconera and Gonzaga bastions, also belongs to this era.

Later, during the reign of Philip V, the recently formed Corps of Engineers carried out important external reinforcement work. The year 1726 marks a significant milestone in the history of the Pamplona fortifications: the engineer Jorge Próspero de Verboom would present a general plan for the City and the Citadel (the city enclosure) which would be followed throughout the 18th century.

Verboom, a disciple of Vauban (the French engineer who took 17th-century bastioned fortification to its greatest height), designed a double enclosure of defences on the most exposed parts using advanced fortifications that could be defended from the main enclosure and which covered each other’s flanks. The work of the besieger was thus slowed down. With his plan, a balance was struck between the strategic importance of the city, the economic means at its disposal and the garrison necessary to defend it.

Around 1730, work began on reinforcing the Francia Front with the construction of the low bastions of Guadalupe and El Pilar and Los Reyes Ravelin, and the advanced forts of San Roque, El Príncipe and San Bartolomé. Today only the latter is well preserved.

The first sketches for San Bartolomé Fort The first works related to the San Bartolomé Fort or, at least to a defensive structure planned for the site, go back to 1641. That was when the engineer Juan de Garay arrived in Pamplona with a mission to draw up a general plan for the city and citadel.

This was to be of great importance for the fortification work of subsequent decades: apart from including the whole system of half moons, it was the first to propose a hornwork on the site where the San Bartolomé Fort would subsequently be built, opposite the right face of the Labrit or La Merced Bastion1 (image 1).

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Image 1. Plan of the city and citadel fortifications of Pamplona. Anonymous. (n.d.). 1 June 1645. AGS

In spite of that, and as successive reports on and plans for the City were issued by engineers and viceroys [Amador de Lazcano (1669), Octaviano Meni (1683), Juan de Ledesma (1684), Viceroy Prince of Chimay (1685), Esteban Escudero (1686), De Tigné (1706), Viceroy Bournoville (1686), Hércules Torelli (1694), Alejandro de Rez (1720) the works never came to be realised. On 28 May 1726, the engineer Jorge Próspero Verboom sent for the king’s approval the plan that would guide improvement work on the fortified complex of Pamplona throughout the whole 18th century.

(1) SHM. Colec. Aparici, t. XII, fols. 384v-385. “The hornwork designed on the plan indicated by the letter I with its 60 foot wide moat, and its covered way going around as it follows on from that of the city on such a scale that demonstrates that it will be necessary for many reasons that said expert is enagaged on this fortification...”

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Image 2. Plan of San Bartolomé Fort with part of the fortified front of the city of Pamplona.

Jorge Próspero Verboom. January 1726. AGS

Verboom’s plan Among other improvements, Verboom proposed building three small detached forts at some distance from the city walls: San Roque, on the La Taconera side; El Príncipe, up on Goroabe and dominating the southern zone, and San Bartolomé.

The design of San Bartolomé Fort was similar to that of the little forts and lunettes created by Vauban, and even by Verboom himself in the Barcelona citadel. It was situated opposite the right face of the Labrit Bastion, where the land had become less sloping, and revealed with its lights the land to the southwest. Its gorge closed off by a simple wall, and protected by its guardhouse and tambour, it had numerous embrasures; and inside, storehouses and bomb-proof vaults (image 2).

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In September of that year Verboom’s services were required at the siege of Gibraltar, so he was replaced as chief engineer by Pedro Moreau. In 1727, Moreau gave an account of the state of fortification works in various reports: at San Bartolomé Fort they were getting on with construction of the covered way and the esplanade, and working on its two exits to the moat and on linking the covered way to the city (image 3).

Image 3. Tejería Front. Labrit Bastion. Tejería Ravelin and San Bartolomé Fort. Anonymous.

1723-1737. IHCM

One year later, Moreau sent a new account from Madrid of the works planned for that year. It said there would be nothing done on San Bartolomé that year because things were already very far forward2.

(2) AGS. GM. Leg. 3.453. “As regarding this building work has finished on its covered way, the esplanade and the facing of its parapet, as well as that of the low battery, the rest could be deferred till next year.”

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In 1731 another report by Pedro Moreau (image 4) goes into the budget and specific items in more detail. San Bartolomé Fort required masonry for the main body of the fort, counterscarp, parapets, shoulders and gorge; from which it is clear that, in spite of what the previous report said, the stone facing can hardly have begun. Carved stone and brick would also be used for cladding the parapets. On the other hand, some excavation was still necessary, and the earth

Image 4. Plan of San Bartolomé Fort. Pedro Moreau. June 1731. SGE

dug up would be used to form parapets, banquettes, shoulders and esplanades.

The cross section drawings show how the fort dominated the land in front of the Labrit Bastion, and how the left-hand battery on the scarp, already finished, looked over the riverside (image 5).

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Image 5. Cross sections of San Bartolomé Fort in the city of Pamplona. Jaime Sicre. 1736.

AGS

In 1736 Jaime Sicre came to Pamplona as Pedro Moreau’s replacement, with the latter heading for Salamancan and Extremeduran lands. A few months later, Sicre penned a detailed report on Verboom’s plan, indicating what had been done, what still needed to be done, and the budget and materials required to carry out the work described.

Regarding San Bartolomé Fort, he recounted that its main body was made of earth, as were its terrepleins, the earth for which came from the excavation of the moat (image 6). The covered way was almost complete with the finishing

Image 6. Plan of the outlying bastion known as San Bartolomé Fort in the city of Pamplona.

Jaime Sicre. 29 January 1737. AGS

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touches to the masonry, and had been joined up to the city. The battery to its left, which looked over the river and stood on the covered way, was now finished and could hold three artillery pieces. Nearly all the cladding and its foundations was lacking, although the parapets and cross-sections of the banquettes must already have been done.

Also still to do were storehouses, counterscarp, masonry for the main door and tambour to cover this, sentry box and eleven paved esplanades, in the fort as well as the left shoulder of the covered way, which was already finished with a gatehouse at the main entry.

Finishing off construction of the detached forts was lowest down the list of priorities. Even so, Sicre lauded Verboom’s plan for its advanced forts, which struck him as highly suitable for the defence of Pamplona3.

Antonio Hurtado’s improvements The two most important plans of the 18th century after Verboom’s are those

by Juan Martín Zermeño, in 1756, and Antonio Hurtado, in 1796-1797.

Juan Martín Zermeño, one of the most prestigious engineers in the reign of Ferdinand VI, sent a detailed and meticulous report from which it can be deduced, from its resemblance to the one Jaime Sicre had written twenty years before, that in the intervening period not one improvement had been effected on any aspect of San Bartolomé Fort.

It appears that the three years following the report saw great activity on the fortification works, leaving the Fort with the exterior geometry it has today, similar to that of the low bastions of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe and La (3) AGS. GM. Leg. 3.700. “…I find that on the land where it is proposed to put some other outworks, they are very suitable for such a situation, on the aforementioned land:as from them you can cover the main gulleys of the many that surround the City and Citadel and they can act to hinder any enemy attempting a formal siege, because before beginning he would have to overcome the difficulty of being forced to dig in before said advanced fortifications, which would cause him much delay in his operations, and with such the besieger often finds his plans foiled, due to having to pospone similar attacks,...”

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Image 7. Plan of the city of Pamplona’s San Bartolomé Fort, situated to the south-west of it and by the River Arga. Plan and cross-section along the line 1.2.3. Antonio Hurtado. 8 January 1796. SGE

Virgen del Pilar, which date from the same period, and on which the same engineers -and probably the same foremen, too- were involved.

The fort may have been defensively operational, but the War against the Convention (1793-1795) led to important modifications to its interior. Going by what is contained in the plan signed by Antonio Hurtado on 8 January 1796

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(image 7), in which the work to be undertaken is explained by means of extensive text, a plan and a cross section, these innovations can be summed up in the following points: - Increase in the number of embrasures on the upper part of the fort.

Going from the nine foreseen until then in all previous plans to twenty, distributed as follows: three on the north flank (closest to the River Arga); six on either side of the scarps; one on the main angle of the scarps; and two on the north-east flank (furthest away from the River Arga).

- Increase in the number of bomb-proof vaults: going from the two units which first appeared in an anonymous plan c.1727-1737 to five (one on the north-east side, one in the centre and three on the north-west side)4.

Although they all have similar surface areas, the one described as a magazine is smaller.

- Creation of ramps to go up to the terrepleins, as well as the horseshoeshaped space.

- Getting rid of the old guardhouse inside the fort.

- Introduction of high and low loopholes (or portholes) for rifles in the two walls facing the gorge to defend the fort’s access way from potential attacks5.

The increase in the number of barracks bears some relation to the increase in embrasures, which required a greater number of artillery pieces inside and, therefore, of troops.

It is also worth viewing the plan in the light of Juan Ximénez Donoso’s 1795 scheme for countermines (image 8). That studied their possible geometry and (4) Although two more caserns ought to have been built on the flank of the riverbank, Antonio Hurtado gave details in his 1796 plan of “one not having been made due to the pressure of war: all having to serve so that this essential position in the besieged outwork might have the necessary equipment to withstand uprisings, along with storehouses and other things necessary for defence.”

(5) In spite of the fact that in an anonymous plan dated between 1727 and 1737, and in another

by Pedro Moreau in 1731, the gorge was originally shown with a multitude of high loopholes along its constituent walls, in the end what we know today was shown in Antonio Hurtado’s 1796 plan: four high and four low ones on the two opposing walls.

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Development of San Bartolomé Fort. From the plan created by Jorge Próspero Verboom in 1726 (left) to that of Antonio Hurtado in 1796 (right)

trajectories, both in the City and the Fort area. Two of these countermines were put in on the counterscarp of the latter area. Although their entrances were covered over by the municipal works team around 1962, today they have been opened up again as part of the recently concluded fort restoration works.

From the 19th century to our times San Bartolomé Fort would be the last important work undertaken for the defence of Pamplona and is in addition one of the best preserved, in terms of its original geometry. The building we have today faithfully represents the best of those designed by Antonio Hurtado. (image 9).

Paradoxically, the city was besieged or blockaded three times during the 19th century - in 1813, at the end of the Spanish War of Independence, in 1823 with the incursion of the Hundred Thousand Sons of St Louis, and in 1874 during

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Image 8. Plan of the City of Pamplona with the design for countermines which was accompanied by a corresponding Discourse. Juan Ximénez Donoso. 19 February 1795. IHCM

Image 9. 1921. Aerial photo of San Bartolome Fort - Labrit Bastion. AMP

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San Bartolomé Fort. A. Gª Deán. c.1910. AMP

the Third Carlist War – just when the whole system of bastioned fortification was in decline. That had not happened throughout the greater part of the 16th century or the whole of the 17th and 18th centuries, the apogee of that system of fortification. The failure of the bastioned system in the face of howitzers and mortars, made especially apparent during the siege of Antwerp in 1832, put a full stop to a three-century history of striving to counteract advances in artillery.

The loss of its defensive function led to the abandonment of the fort and triggered a process of degradation in it. There appears to have been a landslide in 1932 in the bank area, next to the river, causing the partial collapse of its wall and parapet. Although no traces remain today of any such collapse on the outside walls of the Fort, tell-tale signs found on the inside would serve as corroboration.

In 1932 a containing wall for the bank was built, which still stands today and in 1939 work began on the Medialuna Park, designed by Víctor Eúsa. Between 1940 and 1942 the first restoration of the fort was carried out, in which the elements affected by the land slipping away from the bank were reconstructed.

It even makes sense to think of the containing wall itself put up in 1932 as having been designed to stabilise the bank and avoid further landslides.

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San Bartolomé Fort. c.1900. AMP

The restoration work on the fort’s low battery that has been carried out throughout this year in tandem with restoration of the fort itself has brought to light problems with the stability of the bank, its foundations appearing to have been completely undermined. This fact reinforces the present theory as against others which seek to link the landslides to a possible attack on the fort.

Access to the Fort is via the gorge or rear part of the defence, situated in the protected area of the attack front, worked with masonry. The latter is protected on its sides by two narrow walls with high and low portholes for rifles. While the upper ones are made of ashlars (also constituting the top of the wall), the lower ones are of brick. The access door, originally wooden and “blind”, has been modified with the passing years. So, what was first designed to meet exclusively military needs has been “made over” with a grid of 7 x 4 squares per leaf, though the blind character of the lower part has been respected.

Once inside the defence, the attention is drawn by the central horseshoe space with ramps going up to the terrepleins (upper area of the Fort) on either side.

In the straight wall of the horseshoe a door giving access to a casern (building with a bomb-proof cannon vault built within the defence that was used to accommodate staff and store provisions and materials) can be seen, and twin

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San Bartolomé Fort. J. Cía. 1944. AMP

stone gargoyles to the left and right of the door. There is one casern to the left of this, close to the bank, and three to the right. These spaces were paved with large flagstones.

Of the five caserns, 4 are of the same size (5 x 10 m) while the last, furthest away form the entrance, which was used as a gunpowder store, is somewhat smaller (2.5 x 8 m). The rules stipulated opening vents and paving the floor “to protect the gunpowder from the damp”, in addition to the door and window, which were originally to be covered with sheets of iron to take “all precautions against potential fires”. Though flooring normally consisted of “boards, raised one foot from the ground”, large flagstones were used in the case of the Fort.

In the upper parts, the emplacements for the artillery pieces corresponding to each embrasure were made of large flagstones. On the scarp nearest to the

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San BartolomĂŠ Fort. R. Bozano. c.1950. AMP

bank, and given that the terreplein is on a slope, the flagstones form a trapezoidal figure in front of each of the embrasures. As these vary slightly in height and the cannon had to be horizontal, the height difference was absorbed by terracing of the different emplacements. On the scarp furthest away from the bank, next to the river, the flagstones form a continuous platform. These emplacements also slope slightly towards the parapet, and the observation points are arranged among them. The artillery chief would go up these so he could point out the exact direction of fire.

With regard to their construction, however, it is difficult to follow the logic: the mixture of masonry and brick on the inside parapets follows no obvious scheme, except for the repetition of the brick pillars topped by special pieces of masonry that form the openings of the embrasures and the rowlock bricks that top the little wall between them. The sides of the embrasures, also of

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San Bartolomé Fort. J. Cía. 1954. AMP

brick, show no identifiable bonding system, the headers being irregularly mixed with the faces, in spite of the fact that by that time there were already numerous treatises on the “Art of Bricklaying” in existence, describing everything from how to build a brick factory to the most suitable bonds. The only constant in the sides of the embrasures is their top pieces: bricks laid in rowlocks. It might be that their irregular construction was due to the haste with which the modifications to the Fort were implemented and the time that they were done (during the Convention War).

The image that we have today of the setting for the San Bartolomé Fort has little to do with its original one. The development of the city led to its being integrated into the Medialuna Park, to which it gives its name, and which came to be

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surrounded by buildings as the years passed. Its glacis was transformed into a wooded area which, in a way, has resulted in this singular construction being hidden from view to the majority of Pamplona’s residents.

It is some time since the fort was used as just another store for the city gardens service located on the edge of town. The urban “breach” caused by the Labrit slope had meant that the site of the San Bartolomé Fort was a remote and inaccessible space. Several developments that have been worked on concurrently are making possible the creation of a key new space for the culture, tourism and leisure of Pamplona: the footbridge connecting the Segundo Ensanche with the old town, the urban lift that brings the river walkway closer to the city, the Sanfermines Museum and the Interpretation Centre for the Fortifications housed in the fort itself. A place to see the finest examples of the architectural, spiritual and natural heritage of the city of Pamplona: its walled enclosure, San Fermin fiestas and riverside park respectively.

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Restoration of the San Bartolomé Fort for use as the Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications

Since 2005 Pamplona Town Council has been fostering an ambitious Conservation and Promotion Plan for its Fortifications, based on three main principles: the conservation and restoration of the walled enclosure, functional improvements to its environment (in terms of housing, staff, public spaces and better mobility and accessibility) and the promotion and revitalisation of the walled enclosure itself to disseminate its historical and architectural value. The renovation of San Bartolomé Fort as the Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications has made it possible to work on these three principles in the same part of the monument, while also making it both meeting place and departure point for a tour of walled Pamplona.

At the end of 2009 the fort was in a state of abandonment, overrun by vegetation. Its afflictions were many, though not serious, suggesting the need for immediate action. The criterion applied to its restoration has been that of complete respect for the monument, striving to maintain the historic interpretation of the fort’s evolution, as reflected in its bonding, materials and different modes of construction. The cleaning of its faces has not been deep, it has been done carefully using brushes and water, getting rid of accumulated dirt but allowing for the patina of age bestowed on the building by oxidation of its stones to be preserved.

There has not been widespread substitution of materials, with only those elements that had lost their usefulness being replaced, such as a partially-

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decapitated gargoyle or broken bricks or stones in an irretrievably poor condition. In all other cases the existing material has been respected, warts and all.

The new uses introduced have made it necessary to fit out the caserns as exhibition spaces. However, it is these new uses that have had to adapt to the existing spaces, as the exhibition has been designed as a free-standing structure, independent of the walls that house it. The diffuse light, low-level and out of sight, reinforces the character of the vaulted rooms and brings out their rounded geometry.

The only new element introduced, for reasons of mobility, has been a double stone staircase. The excessively steep slope of the existing terrepleins made access to the upper area of the fort impossible. A simple and comfortable staircase has been put in, which blends in with the building by using the same type of stone, as well as moulding its course to the curvature of the walls it runs beside.

Restoration work on San Bartolomé Fort LENGTHS OF WALL The structural condition of all the masonry walls making up the exterior geometry of the Fort was good. The odd section was out of place, due to the pressure of the trees, the pointing was gone in many places, allowing small amounts of vegetation to grow, and the stone presented a blackish aspect from the build-up of environmental pollution, the flow of water seeping through the earth and the surface growth of moss and lichen.

The intervention was limited to cleaning all the stretches of wall and the pointing of all the surfaces, removing all the stonework that had been displaced, to be put back in its original position.

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The stonework evinced a large accumulation of dirt, small amounts of vegetation and the loss of pointing.

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INTERIOR WALLS The old hill that was the origin and nucleus of San Bartolomé Fort was soon enclosed within its walls. Its historical evolution in terms of construction led to the inside spaces we know today, achieved thanks to the construction of successive containing walls, vaults and the realisation of large infills of earth.

Those containing walls were found to be in good condition, but with a large accumulation of dirt and small amounts of vegetation – and above all, a great deal of calcification produced by the slow deposit of the lime contained in the excess water seeping through its joints.

The operation consisted of cleaning and pointing the faces, in large measure respecting the existing calcifications, those involuntary witnesses to the passage of time since their construction.

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They evidenced small amounts of vegetation, dirt, loss of pointing and abundant calcification.

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EMBRASURES The embrasures were generally in quite a poor state, suffering from various ills: the abundant presence of large vegetation, the absence of adequate foundations in many cases and the inclemencies of the weather had caused the brick walls in the vast majority of cases to bow, with significant settling and degradation of the ceramic parts, above all those corresponding to the rowlocks on the crown.

Given the ruined state they were in, the brick walls had to be dismantled in many cases. The material recovered being in good condition, it was cleaned and stockpiled for later re-use.

As the project progressed, it became evident that many of the walls being worked on had previously been reconstructed on the base of others that had been pulled

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It was in a state of ruin in many cases, revealing slippage, collapse and degradation of material.

down. The foundations of the embrasures over the caserns, created by means of discharging arches, were also exposed and recorded.

COUNTERSCARP AND COUNTERMINES In the case of the counterscarp, the most unusual items restored were the countermines, defensive tunnels dug in the earth that were left ready to be extended so as to make it possible to intercept and blow up the mines - tunnels dug by the enemy to gain access to the moat. With the demolition of the walls

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blocking them off, their differing conditions could be assessed. The first of them, the one situated on the angle of the counterscarp, appeared to be in a very good general condition, its overall dimension, brickwork covering and drainage system preserved intact.

In the second case, the countermine was flooded with water and there had been some collapse. Due to its ruined state, the end was blocked, making it impossible to see its total length.

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With the restoration of the Counterscarp, access to the countermines was regained, and thus to one of the Fort’s defensive elements.

The intervention was carried out in a very superficial manner, merely consisting of a clean up and clear out of the inside of the countermines, and the repair of the lintel at the shaft entrance, which had been obscured with the covering over of the pitheads. The reconstruction was faithful to the remains that were found, which gave a clear indication of the original configuration of the shaft.

CASERNS The caserns were the bomb-proof buildings where the garrison was billeted and the gunpowder, munitions and provisions were kept. All of them had a ventilation shaft and a small window over the door. They were paved with flagstones and their mortar cladding was of lime. Structurally they were in good condition, but the cladding was very degraded with the general dampness. The

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The caserns or bomb-proof vaults showed signs of damp, dirt and sooty deposits on the ground as much as on the walls.

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flooring in some caserns had deteriorated greatly, and in others sinking here and there. The restoration task consisted fundamentally in waterproofing the caserns and putting the lime cladding back.

The original floors were respected in two of the caserns, while in the others they had to be replaced. Stone with a similar cut to the existing ones was used for this, with the aim of preserving the character of the rooms.

FLOORING The interior of the Fort was unpaved, except for in the upper area designated for the placing of cannon, where there were flagstones up to 25 cm thick. That floor was in large part hidden beneath the accumulation of earth and moss, and in some places it had been pushed up by the force of roots or had sunk down due to settling of the earth filler. The floor in these areas was designed to slope towards the embrasures, so that gravity might help counteract the recoil from

the shooting of the cannon. That made the proper draining away of water impossible, leaving it to collect at the bottom.

The restoration consisted mainly of cleaning and pointing the floors, re-laying displaced parts and putting in a drainage system that would enable the water to run off properly. All of the flagstones that had to be taken up were numbered beforehand and replaced in their original position. The rest of the fort surface never had flooring. That was why, during the restoration work, it was decided to build a plinth of exposed pebbles that would meet the accessibility requirements of the caserns and would be easy to maintain, while reinterpreting

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In the interior, the only flooring was inside the caserns and in the area where the cannon were placed.

the continuous and natural character of the original earth floor. Given the excessive slope of the ramps, a curved stone staircase was put in. It had a viewing platform on the upper landing, a high point enabling observation of the whole fort and facilitating its spatial comprehension. The other areas, corresponding to the ramps and upper zone, were landscaped and provided with a watering system.

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Notes of interest As work progressed, a series of details came to light with a certain curiosity value, such as graphite drawings, a drainage system, building methods etc..

GRAPHITE DRAWINGS A series of “lines” and “strokes” was found inside the caserns6. It was difficult to make out the drawings with the naked eye due to their poor conservation, but the application of tangential light and digital filters made it possible to positively identify several of them.

Graphite drawings were found that had been done with two different techniques: using black paint and by incision in the plaster.

The exact chronology of the drawings is difficult to establish, but from the graphology of some of the inscriptions it can be assumed that they were done between the end of the 18th century and the first half of the 19th. Surprisingly, not one of them bears a date.

It seems clear who the artists were7. The people occupying the enclosure were the military, and the long hours that they had to spend in the caserns led to boredom on the part of the soldiers. The great number of circular marks that appear on some of the walls was made by rifle barrels being pressed against them.

The height of many of them indicates that the person responsible was sitting on the ground, probably leaning against the wall opposite. It is a similar story with many of the drawings nearer the ground which must, therefore, have been done by someone sitting. In this case the complexity and perfection of some of the signatures precludes the possibility that a child could have done them.

(6) A graphite specialist was used to interpret them, Pablo Oscariz Gil, with a PhD in History.

(7) The subject matter of some of the drawings, a signature ending with the words Sold(ier), Inf(antry) and an inscription with the word Soldi(er)” confirm the artists as military personnel from the enclosure.

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Image 1

In other cases the strokes appear higher up, between one meter and one meter seventy off the ground.

Among all the graphite representations, several very complex and elaborate (if difficult to read) flourishes or signatures can be made out (image 1) 8, as can wheeled cannon at the moment of being fired (appearing within a more complex (8) One of the best preserved bears the name “Jose Antonio”. Among the inscriptions, it is possible to make out the name “Jabier y [---] on one, and on another the above-mentioned words relating to soldiers and infantry.

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Image 2

Image 3

Image 4

– but difficult to interpret – scene), several figures of birds (image 2), bulls and oxen (image 3), a drawing of a vase with flowers, or an architectural sketch of what is probably the entrance arch of one of the caserns, having the same design and number of voussoirs. Three hanging scenes can also be made out (image 4), featuring both the condemned man and the executioner.

Finally, there are several decorative drawings, calculations, a cross, numbers and individual letters.

WATER DRAINAGE The enclosure had a toilet built in the 20th century, situated by the loopholes furthest to the north. When it was dismantled, a small shaft was revealed, which, after crossing the wall, ran down the hillside at a steep gradient. Its situation corresponds to the lowest point of the fort and represents the only channel issuing from it. During restoration work its strategic location was used to drain off rainwater from inside the enclosure.

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VENTILATION OF THE CASERNS All the caserns had a ventilation system that used a multi-sectioned shaft. In all but the central casern, the first of these goes up vertically until it clears the thickness of the vault, the second at an upward angle by the inside of the parapets and embrasures, to end up with a third section that goes down until it opens out in the interior face of the parapet.

It cannot have worked very well, because alternative shafts complementing or substituting those described were uncovered. In the central casern, the

truncated base of what appears to have been a vertical shaft was found, and while in this case there was also an initial vertical section and a second at an angle, the latter hardly extended any distance.

WALL BUTTRESSES At the back of three of the caserns robust masonry corners can be seen.

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These are the buttresses of the fort walls, which the building of the caserns brought into their interior space.

UNUSUAL FOUNDATIONS When for various reasons there were problems with the foundations, a habitual practice was to build arches to support the base of the walls, as that way it was only necessary to put in two foundation points, corresponding to the supporting

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points of the arch. Inside the fort the existence of this type of foundation has been noted in two places: the northern area of the Fort, where after excavating the casern floor, an arch was discovered that ran from buttress to buttress and on which the scarp wall was supported; and in the area above the caserns, where the side walls of the embrasures rest their weight on arches. In the latter instance, the implementation of this type of solution was possibly designed to ensure that the water did not collect at the base of the walls and could run off freely towards the roof gutters.

LIME PLINTHS Although degraded and generally collapsed, lime plinths were found on all the embrasures, some of them really thick, and made to a low standard of workmanship.

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San Bartolomé Fort as Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications San Bartolomé Fort, completely renovated, has definitively come to life since being converted into the Interpretation Centre for the Pamplona Fortifications.

Every new use of a historic building always presupposes a delicate balance

between what exists and what is added. In the case of the Fort, efforts have been made to minimise the impact of what has been added, avoiding the construction of coverings or new enclosures and limiting the occupation to the defined space of the caserns. The spirit of the new Interpretation Centre is to strike up a dialogue with the spaces it has been installed in, and to provide the visitor with content to aid their overall comprehension of the fort and walled enclosure of Pamplona.

Not just from the architectural and historical point of view, but also from the point of view of the intangible. The walls marked and conditioned the life of Pamplona, imprinting an indelible character on its streets and inhabitants. They continue to do so, although these days from a completely different perspective. Their military character has been gradually diluted to the extent of transforming them into the places for recreation, enjoyment and sociability that they now are.

The content provided is adapted to the profile of every visitor, to their different ages, backgrounds and interests, using a combination of diverse expository elements such as reading panels, audiovisual displays and interactive installations, enabling progressive levels of approaching and deepening knowledge of the subject, according to the interest of each person. The expository content is divided thematically, one per enclosure:

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THE EVOLUTION OF THE WALLS OF PAMPLONA The main casern, situated opposite the entrance, is the starting point for the visit. Inside it takes you through the history of the walled enclosure of Pamplona, noting its Roman origin and detailing its evolution from the medieval walls of the 14th-15th centuries to the bastioned fortifications we have today.

Computer reconstruction of the walled enclosure. C15th

Computer reconstruction of the walled enclosure. C16th

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Computer reconstruction of the walled enclosure. C17th

Computer reconstruction of the walled enclosure. C18th

The parallel development of the city and the evolution of its walls are given clear visual expression.

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Computer reconstruction of the Cathedral of Santa Maria de Pamplona (Romanesque origin)

Computer reconstruction of the Church of San Cernin (C15th)

THE EVOLUTION OF THE FORTRESSES AND ARMAMENTS Owing to the continuous evolution of armaments of ever-increasing calibre and precision, the fortresses had to redesign their defences in parallel, as much from

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Recreation of a section of the Citadel and its defensive structures.

the point of view of geometry as construction. This space takes a comparative look at the arms available in each period and the type of defence designed to counteract them. The specific case of Pamplona is explained, the evolution of its walls analysed in detail from the 15th century to the elements comprising the bastioned fortifications we can visit today.

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THE HUMAN SIDE OF THE WALLS Walled cities accommodate hundreds of people and determine their lives; with the passing of the centuries they came to feel protected or oppressed by defensive walls which had become obsolete.

The strategic and military importance of Pamplona, its character as a stronghold, had a significant influence on its inhabitants, their occupations, customs and ways of life. This was also a determining factor in its urban development,

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Picture of a C19th female gatekeeper, one of the five period characters that can be seen in the casern on “The human side of the walls”.

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something it had in common with other cities, but in the case of Pamplona it was exceptionally prolonged – up until 1915, when demolition of the walls began.

This casern guides you through the main social realities marking each century, with the help of dramatisations by five period characters: the Toulouse poet Guillermo de Annelier, witness to and narrator of the war between the three boroughs in the 13th century; an infantry soldier from the 17th century, victim of the decline of imperial Spain; a 19th-century woman gatekeeper, a guardian whose role had more to do with revenue than defence; Don Alfonso de Gaztelu y Maritorena, who was mayor of Pamplona between 1913 and 1916 and a privileged spectator when demolition of the walls began; and an anonymous contemporary person, symbol of the reconciliation and the renewed relationship between the citizens of Pamplona and its old walls.

PAMPLONA AND THE WORLD To be able to fairly judge the importance of a fortress, it is necessary to contextualise it in its time and compare it with other similar ones. Pamplona came to be a bastioned fortress of the first order. Its pentagonal citadel is the oldest in Spain, which means that when it was built, in the time of Philip II, it was the most modern and sophisticated of all existing defensive fortifications.

Those who came to the city to take up the work of building and improving the defences were the best engineers and builders in the Europe of their day. On the other hand, the art of building as practised in Pamplona was a crucible of the siege warfare expertise, both theoretical and practical, of the three European schools of fortification: Flemish, Italian and French.

The Pamplona complex is the finest surviving example of the move from the medieval system of defence to Renaissance modernity in military engineering.

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Bibliography ECHARRI, V., Las murallas y la ciudadela de Pamplona. Pamplona, 2000.

Gobierno de Navarra (Government of Navarre).

MADRAZO, P., España. Sus monumentos y arte. Su naturaleza e historia. Navarra y Logroño, tomos I y II. Barcelona, 1986. Cortezo.

MARTINENA, J.J., Historias del viejo Pamplona. Pamplona, 2003.

Ayuntamiento de Pamplona (Town Council of Pamplona).

QUINTANILLA, V y TORRES, J., Plan de actuación Fortificaciones de Pamplona. Pamplona, 2006.

Ayuntamiento de Pamplona (Town Council of Pamplona). Pamplona.

ZAPATERO, J.M., El Real Felipe del Callao, Primer castillo de la “Mar del Sur”. Madrid, 1983.

Sources used Archivo General de Simancas (AGS).

Archivo Municipal de Pamplona (AMP).

Instituto de Historia y Cultura Militar. Madrid (IHCM).

Servicio Geográfico del Ejército (SGE).

List of acknowledgements Sponsor: Project management:

Town Council of Pamplona José Vicente Valdenebro García, José Ignacio Alfonso Pezonaga, Marta Monreal Vidal y Miguel Monreal Vidal

Restoration project:

José Ignacio Alfonso Pezonaga, Marta Monreal Vidal y Miguel Monreal Vidal Lidia Martínez Zancajo Proyectos y Promoción de Ingeniería S.L.

Health and safety: Installations: Content creation and development: Content director: Coordinator of historical content: Historical advisors: Content development:

Contributors:

Construcciones Aranguren, Construcciones Leache y Construcciones Zubillaga [UTE Fortín de San Bartolomé ALZ] Víctor Echarri Iribarren Juan José Martinena Ruiz Luis Eduardo Oslé Guerendiain Código Alfa Soluciones S.L. José Luis Los Arcos Sanz, Javier Olmedo Cruz, Alberto Guinea Bel Isabel Elizalde Arretxea, Ignacio Olivera Martínez, Idoia Poza Undiano, Eduardo Sáiz Múgica Patricia Martiartu Fernández, Raquel Domench Vidal Pedro Gurpegui Nausia, María Lusarreta Baztán Lidia Gómez Sada Fernando Hualde Gállego, Luis Esquíroz Medina

Investment: Subsidy:

1.925.000 € Gobierno de España – FEILES

Coordination and continuity:

José Javier López Rodríguez, José Vicente Valdenebro García, Enrique Maya Miranda, Silvia Azpilicueta Rodríguez Valdés, Teresa Lasheras Balduz

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A walk round the Pamplona Fortifications.

Visual guide

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San BartolomĂŠ Fort Interpretation Centre for the Walls of Pamplona Situated right in the heart of Pamplona, and following its restoration in 2010, it today houses the Interpretation Centre for the Walls of Pamplona. It is also the starting point for a complete tour of the fortifications of the city-fortress of Pamplona.

Built in the 18th century, and gradually improved in several phases, it was meant to provide support to the main fortification. The hill it stands on was a weak

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point, liable to enemy attack: the orography of the land hid the enemy advance, enabling him to reach as far as the actual base of the main walls. The Fort, perched on top of the hill, eliminated that weak point, strengthened the outer defences and gave broad views over the fields where the enemy might lurk.

San Bartolomé, together with El Príncipe and San Roque, was one of the three detached forts set at a certain distance from the city walls proposed by the Marquis of Verboom in his 1726 plan for improving the fortifications of the day.

However, San Bartolomé is the only one of the three that survives in its entirety.

It was also the final defensive structure to be completed in Pamplona.

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Media Luna Park lift – Arga River Park The site chosen for the location of the lift tower lets residents enjoy an environment with both exceptional views and a handy connection to San Bartolomé Fort.

The project was realised over the course of 2010. It fosters links between the Old Town and Segundo Ensanche (Second Enlargement), in the vicinity of the fort, and the Arga River Park and other outlying districts such as Chantrea and Magdalena. Given the 21 metre drop and the wide horizontal separation between the entrance and exit points of the lift, a type of free-standing tower is used that links to the entrance via a walkway over the existing wall.

An identical structural solution serves both the shaft of the lifttower and the access walkway: screens and Corten steel box girders which unify the whole design like a continuous outline.

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Labrit walkway As part of efforts to improve mobility promoted by Pamplona Town Council, this pedestrian walkway became operational at the end of 2010, making for easier communication between the Old Town and the city’s Segundo Ensanche (Second Enlargement). It also enhances the continuity of the walk around the Pamplona walls itself as, bridging the large breach caused by the Labrit slope that is one of the city’s important access points, it connects the San Bartolomé Fort with the sentry walk round the fortified enclosure.

It is a simple Y-shaped Corten steel structure which, in a rather sculptural manner, spans a distance of over 70 metres between its endpoints. It forms part of the new infrastructure rendering the walled enclosure’s nearly 5 kilometres of perimeter (sentry) walk accessible.

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Labrit Bastion Built around 1540, this was originally called the Cubo del Molino de Caparroso or Caparroso Bastion; later the Merced or Labrit Bastion, and from 1669 it was generally known as the latter. It is one of the oldest surviving parts of the fortification. From one of its flanks ran the now-vanished TejerĂ­a front, the lowered base of which remains next to the Jito-Alai pediment. Only part of the platform that surrounded its base survives, as the Chantrea road-widening works that were carried out around 1960 led to one of its fronts disappearing.

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Ronda del Obispo Barbazán Magdalena front Situated between Labrit and Redín Bastions, this stretch of wall and the sentry walk that runs parallel to it protects the most sacred part of the city: the Archbishop's Palace, the Barbazana Chapel, the cloister and the main front of Santa Maria Cathedral. The walk is named in honour of Bishop Barbazán. Here the constituent stretch or curtain of wall has no embrasures, though a couple of characteristically mid 18th-century sentry boxes are still standing. This section does not have a moat, either, as the land’s natural escarpment and the proximity of the river Arga render one unnecessary. It was opened to the public in 1960, its present condition the product of a recent restoration which has made it easier to walk through this area, one of the most beautiful in the city, offering superior views of the surrounding area.

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Cathedral of Santa María la Real This was built during the 14th and 15th centuries on what was the site of a Romanesque church and before that the Roman settlement of Pompaelo. It was also the most important place in the medieval city of Navarrería. Its neoclassical facade hides a sober Gothic church. It is one of the most complete cathedral complexes in the world due to the fact that there were canons living there until the 19th century. The preservation of the greater part of its dependencies (kitchen, dormitories, refectory, library etc.) allows us to clearly understand how a medieval church worked.

In front of the presbytery is the tomb of King Charles III, architect of the union of the city in 1423, and his wife Eleanor of Trastámara. It is considered to be one of the most important sculptural ensembles in Navarre. 28 figures of nobles and high clergy accompany those of the recumbent monarchs. Below the tomb is a sealed crypt containing the remains of the kings and princes buried in the Cathedral.

The Barbazana Chapel, dedicated to the bishop of the same name (1319-1355), gives pride of place to La Virgen del Consuelo, a polychrome stone carving of exceptional value. The Cloister is the jewel of the cathedral, and one of the world’s outstanding masterworks in the Gothic style. It was built between 1286 and 1472, and there are few European cloisters in its class.

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Redín Bastion Built around the year 1540, this is, along with the Labrit, the oldest bastion in the walled enclosure.

It occupied roughly the site of the old medieval Tesorería tower. At first it was called Cubo de la Tesorería, Torreón de la Moneda and Bastión de la Magdalena.

Since the eighteenth century it has been known almost exclusively as El Redín.

Recently restored, it is the highest point of the walled enclosure, making it the city-fortress’s most attractive lookout over the river Arga.

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Low Bastion of Our Lady of Guadalupe Recently restored, the origins of the low bastion Our Lady of Guadalupe go back to the mid 18th century, when it was added to the RedĂ­n Bastion to increase its defensive capacity. While this new defence was made following new techniques in the art of attacking and defending strongholds (also known as poliorcetics) pioneered by the celebrated engineer Vauban, the combination of both bastions is truly harmonious despite the two centuries of difference separating them.

They represent the union of the 16th with the 18th century through bastioned fortification and the evolution of technical advances in military engineering.

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Los Reyes Ravelin Recently restored, the Los Reyes Ravelin dates from the 18th century, a time when it was deemed necessary to improve the defences of the Francia Front based on the new military techniques developed by the celebrated engineer Vauban.

It was to support the defence of the RedĂ­n and Abrevador bastions, so was situated between the two low bastions (Pilar and Our Lady of Guadalupe) being built at the same time. That is why it is of the same type of construction.

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Francia or Zumalacárregui Gate Built by the Viceroy Duke of Alburquenque in 1553, this opens at the end of Calle del Carmen, formerly Rúa de los Peregrinos. It retains a magnificent Renaissance heraldic carving with the imperial shield of Charles V and an inscription recording the name of its creator. It even still has the runners that the iron portcullis once went down, to close it after curfew.

In 1937 the gate was officially re-baptised with the name Zumalacárregui, in honour of the brave Gipuzkoan general who, as a resident of Calle del Carmen, took that way out of the city one morning in 1833 to fight at the head of the Carlist army, in command of which he won some significant victories. The outer gate, dating from 1753, proudly bears on its facade the simplified Spanish shield, with only the arms of Castile and Leon and the central escutcheon with the Bourbon fleur-de-lis, and not including the shields of the kingdoms of Navarre and Aragon: a similar heraldic composition to that on the Citadel’s Socorro Gate.

It also retains the only working drawbridge in the city, following recent preservation work on the gate. Since 2008, with large crowds all around, it has been operated every Christmas to help the procession of the Three Kings cross over. Of the six gates that went into the walled enclosure, this is the only one that has survived intact.

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Low Bastion of El Pilar Built in the mid 18th century and recently restored, the low bastion of El Pilar is very similar in appearance and features to the low bastion of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Its purpose, as with the latter, was to boost the defensive capabilities of the bastion it surrounded - in this case, the 16th-century Abrevador Bastion.

While this new defence was made following novel techniques in the art of attacking and defending strongholds (also known as poliorcetics) pioneered by the celebrated engineer Vauban, the combination of both bastions is truly harmonious despite the two centuries of difference separating them.

They represent the union of the 16th with the 18th century through bastioned fortification and the evolution of technical advances in military engineering.

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El Abrevador Bastion Next to the Francia Gate stands the small El Abrevador Bastion, built in the 16th century. Recently refurbished, it can be reached by the stairs next to the Francia Gate.

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Archivo General de Navarra The renovated CapitanĂ­a building, a former palace whose origins go back to the 12th century, has since 2003 been the headquarters of the Archivo General de Navarra (Navarre Public Records Office).

Over the course of its life, its uses have changed according to the needs of the moment. Thus, in the Middle Ages it was the residence of the bishops of Pamplona and the prerogative monarchs of the new kingdom. Around 1530 it came to be inhabited by viceroys and from 1841 by field marshals. The Military Government subsequently took up residence in its buildings.

The rehabilitation project is the task of the Navarrese architect Rafael Moneo and has two distinct parts to it. On the one hand, restoring the old medieval building, where the information and customer service areas are.

On the other, building a spacious new modern building, capable of housing the documentary archive. The building is equipped with technological tools for the classification, consultation and safekeeping of the documentary

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heritage of Navarre. It has a capacity equivalent to 44,000 metres of shelving and provides a reading and reference room; a large restoration workshop able to meet the needs of all Navarre's public and private records; photo and microfilm laboratories; an assembly hall; a specialist library; and office space.

The building retains some features of the original Gothic construction, and a twelvestorey tower (three below ground level) has been added to one of the vertexes.

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Town Hall The Town Hall or Casa Consistorial is the seat of the municipal government and the iconic starting point for the San Fermín fiestas.Its location in the heart of the Old Town is not accidental. Until 1423, Pamplona comprised three independent boroughs: Navarrería, San Cernin y San Nicolás. That year King Charles III decided to merge them into a single city, with just one Town Hall.

It was decided to build the first Casa Consistorial at the place where the borders of the three boroughs converged, as a symbol of union and peace between them.

The seat of municipal government and representation would not move from there, although its appearance would certainly change. This first Casa Consistorial was demolished in 1752, having been declared a ruin. Eight years later, the new building was inaugurated on the same site. Only its facade survives. In 1951, everything else was knocked down to make way for the current buildings.

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Parma Bastion This became the point where the fronts known as Francia and Rochapea met. It was originally a large ravine between La Navarrería and the borough of San Cernin. With the unification of the boroughs of Navarrería, San Cernin and San Nicolás that followed the Privilege of Union promulgated by Charles III in 1423, it was filled in and a common wall created. This area, which came to be occupied by what were known as the Santo Domingo Orchards, is now flanked by the Archivo General de Navarra (Public Records Office, formerly the Royal Palace),

Government of Navarre Department of Education (former Military Hospital) and the Museum of Navarre.

Work is pending to adapt and prepare the site for site so that, in addition to the restoration of the Parma Bastion itself, a partially subterranean structure can be built there to house an underground car park and sports complex within the limits of the old plan. The undertaking will include the installation of two urban lifts by the plazas of the museum and records office which, apart from serving these new facilities, can be used by anyone wanting to gain access to the expanse of the new public space.

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Paseo de Ronda - Francia front Recently restored, this takes in the stretch of walls and the path that goes round them from the Rochapea Gate to the Nuevo Gate.

The old sentry walk was opened as a public pathway in the 1960s, though not along the stretch at the back of the Museum of Navarre, which happened more recently, making it possible to walk its entire length.

In the face of the serious danger of ruin that was threatening the very foundations of the wall, the town council carried out, in 1977, consolidation work of some significance. Its situation matches that of the now vanished medieval wall of the borough of San Cernin, which is why it might come as little surprise that remains of the latter are contained within it.

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Descalzos lift Inaugurated in 2008, the “Ascensor de Descalzos” (Lift of the Barefoot) building links the old part of Pamplona next to the walls in the Paseo de Ronda (Sentry Walk) with the Cuesta de Curtidores in Rochapea district, travelling a height of 50m between the two.

The building houses two lifts with a capacity of between 15 and 20 people each (1500 kg max.) connecting the two levels, and also incorporates in the Paseo de Ronda the foyer and disembarkation point, in a double-height space; an exhibition area on the second floor; and a bar-restaurant on the third. The Rochapea entrance provides users with a large reinforced concrete shelter. Once the work had been carried out, the affected part of the wall was rebuilt adapted to the angled trajectory of the lift, under a green bank.

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Nuevo Gate Restored in 2009, the origins of Nuevo (New) Gate go back to 1675, the year in which under the Viceroy Count of Fuensalida the old gate was erected on the same spot. This was poorly reconstructed following bombardment by royal absolutists in 1823, having the least artistic merit of the city’s six and resembling a postern in appearance.

In 1906 the old gate was demolished to broaden the entrance to the Guipúzcoa road; that year a steel footbridge - merely functional - was put in its place to facilitate the movement and patrol of the guards on the front of the Rochapea wall and Gonzaga Bastion. The footbridge was in use until 1949.

In 1950 Víctor Eusa planned and built the Nuevo Gate as it is today, its architecture bearing no relation to that of the adjacent walls.

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Gonzaga Bastion The building of the Citadel entailed the creation of four new Italianate bastions that completed the new line of defence connecting it to the city (they were Gonzaga and Taconera, which still exist today, and San Nicolás and La Reina, which were both demolished between 1915 and 1920 to make way for the construction of the Segundo Ensanche – or Second Enlargement - of Pamplona). These days Gonzaga

Bastion serves as an excellent viewing point for the River Arga, northern Pamplona and surrounding districts. Its structure, rather complex and atypical, was without doubt the product of the successive reforms carried out in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was radically modified in 1925 to give more space to the landscaped area around the lookout and to connect La Taconera better with the Larraina district: the moat was filled in and the walls were partially demolished and put up again outside. The wall originally met the old lookout at a right angle. Its recent restoration has made it possible to return its constituent stretches of wall to a condition worthy of their glory days.

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San Roque Ravelin Also called the “Medialuna de Gonzaga”, this was built between 1675 and 1700 during the reign of Charles (Carlos) II and planned as a defence outside the Citadel. Located in the gardens of La Taconera, it bears on one of its fronts the coat of arms of the Viceroy Pignatelli, Marquis of San Vicente, appointed in 1699.

In reality its name belongs to a fort built around 1730, which was rather shortlived, and the site of which would correspond today to the military swimming pool, part of Larraina and the ring road.

Restored in 2009, it currently provides a nightly haven for the deer that come up to rest in its upper part and to keep their distance from the other animals in the small zoo in the La Taconera moats.

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San Nicolás Gate After construction of the Citadel, the new defensive line embraced four new Italianate bastions – Gonzaga, La Taconera, San Nicolás and La Reina, the latter two being demolished around 1920 with the extension of the Segundo Ensanche (Second Enlargement) of Pamplona. These new bastions meant opening four new gates, too, among them San Nicolás, built in 1666. It is one of the six gates that led into the walled enclosure. Although it was initially put beside the church of San Ignacio, where the Carlos III cinemas are today, the arch was demolished

in 1907 and the gate moved to the Taconera Gardens in 1929. So now the baroque facade of the San Nicolás Gate serves as the access way to the Taconera Gardens from the area of the Bosquecillo.On the gate, at the foot of the shield bearing the royal arms of the House of Austria, there is a stone plaque with the following inscription: IN THE REIGN OF CHARLES II, AND RE GENCY OF THE QUEEN HIS MO THER, AND BEING VICEROY AND FIELD MARSHAL OF THIS KINGDOM AND OF GVIPUZCOA DON FRco TVTAVILA, DVKE OF SAN GERMAN. IN THE YEAR 1666

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La Taconera Bastion This was another of the four new Italianate bastions – Gonzaga, La Taconera, San Nicolås and La Reina, the latter two being demolished around 1920 with the extension of the Segundo Ensanche (Second Enlargement) of Pamplona - that completed the new defensive line created following the construction of the Citadel. Both La Taconera and La Reina embodied the same plan and structure.

The process of facing the first one in stone was apparently completed in 1665.

At the beginning of the 20th century the bastion lost its old cornice of embrasures. In its place a stone parapet was built, better suited to the recreational walking use that the old sentry walk had acquired by then. Its recent restoration has made it possible to return its constituent stretches of wall to a condition worthy of their glory days.

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La Taconera Gate After construction of the Citadel, the new defensive line embraced four new Italianate bastions – Gonzaga, La Taconera, San Nicolás and La Reina, the latter two being demolished around 1920 with the extension of the Segundo Ensanche (Second Enlargement) of Pamplona.

These new bastions meant opening four new gates, too, among them La Taconera, built in 1666. It is one of the six gates that led into the walled enclosure, and gave the city access to the Estella road via the present-day streets Navas de Tolosa and Bosquecillo. On the gate, at the foot of the shield bearing the royal arms of the House of Austria, there is a stone plaque with the following inscription: IN THE REIGN OF CHARLES II, AND RE GENCY OF THE QUEEN HIS MO THER, AND BEING VICEROY AND FIELD MARSHAL OF THIS KINGDOM AND OF GVIPUZCOA DON FRco TVTAVILA, DVKE OF SAN GERMAN. THE YEAR 1666.

Taken down in 1906 to make the access to Pamplona from Estella broader and more comfortable, it was reconstructed in 2002 next to where it had been, between Bosquecillo and the Antoniutti Park skating rink. The stone pillars of the bridge to the old portal still survive as part of the filler below the wide bridge that connects the streets Bosquecillo and Navas de Tolosa with the top of the avenues Bayona and Pío XII. Below Antoniutti Park and its adjoining skating rink lies a buried 17th-century lunette which used to defend the access to the Taconera Gate.

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24. Victoria Bastion 25. Santiago Bastion 29. Santa Ana Ravelin

30. Santa Isabel Ravelin 33. Socorro Gate

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Citadel

32. Santa Lucía Ravelin 28. San Antón Bastion

26. Santa María Bastion 31. Santa Clara Ravelin

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24. 25. 26. 27. 28 Bastions of the la Victoria, of Santiago, of Santa María, Real bastion and Cavalier and San Anton bastion The Pamplona Citadel has become the city’s primary urban reference point. It is considered one of the finest examples of the military architecture of the Spanish Renaissance and also one of the most outstanding defensive complexes in Europe. The parks it embraces and the Vuelta del Castillo, the green belt that surrounds it, are considered the lungs of Pamplona. Its military and defensive purposes have given way to the different sporting, leisure and cultural pursuits enjoyed today by the people of Pamplona.

It was begun in the time of Philip II, in 1571, to plans drawn up by the military engineer Giacomo Palearo, el Fratín. The new Citadel was adapted to advances in military technology and the need to defend it from cannon with a longer reach than those previously deployed, which had rendered the old castle built

by Ferdinand the Catholic obsolete. Thus Palearo, aided by the Viceroy of Navarre, Vespasiano Gonzaga, designed a defensive complex similar to the modern Citadel of Antwerp: a regular pentagon with five bastions at its angles - San Felipe el Real, Santa María, Santiago, San Antón and La Victoria. The latter two were demolished in 1888 to make way for the first Ensanche (Enlargement) of the city, although some remains of San Antón Bastion can be seen in the Pamplona auditorium.

The Citadel was formally completed in 1646, the year it was visited by Philip IV. The conclusion of works and the royal visit were commemorated by putting the coats of arms of both the monarch and the Count of Oropesa over the main gate that opened onto the Avenida del Ejército. A genuine city was built inside the Citadel. On 23 July 1966 it ceased to belong to the Army. Within the enclosure there was a series of military constructions that formed a miniature town, with a radial network of narrow streets and alleys converging on the central square or parade ground. In 1969 a plan was approved to demolish the buildings inside it that had no “architectural value”. Only the Magazine, Weapons Hall, Oven and Gunpowder Store (old provisions warehouse and

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cellar) were left standing. The modern design proved its effectiveness, given that it was never taken by force. Only once did it succumb. It happened during the winter of 1808, when by the Treaty of Fontainebleau, French troops were stationed outside the city, the Viceroy Marquis of Vallesantoro having refused to put them up inside the military enclosure.

On 16 February, after heavy snow, the French began to throw snowballs at the Navarrese guarding the Citadel who, in the excitement of the game, forgot their duties and found themselves suddenly surrounded and disarmed by the foreign troops. Shortly afterwards the War of Spanish Independence broke out.

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29. 30. 31. 32 Ravelins of Santa Ana, Santa Isabel, Santa Clara y Santa Lucía Under the viceroyalty of the Count of Oropesa, ravelins or half moons were added, known by the names Santa Teresa, Santa Ana, Santa Isabel, Santa Clara and Santa Lucía. In the mid 18th century, these exterior citadel defences amounted to small earthen lunettes, with no stone covering and practically ruined by the rain. In view of this, new counterguards with ravelins facing towards the country were built in the reign of Viceroy Benavides, reflecting the systems of military defence devised by the famous engineer Vauban.

Among them the Santa Isabel and Santa Clara ravelins stand out, both having lengths of wall on which a shield with the Viceroy’s arms appears, along with an inscription placing the building of the ravelin – and the Viceroy in question – in the year 1685. On these the following can be read: IN THE REIGN OF CHARLES II OF CASTILE AND OF NAVARRE VICEROY AND FIELD MARSHALL OF THIS KINGDOM D. ENRIQUE BENAVIDES I BAZAN, OF THE COUNCIL OF STATE. IN THE YEAR 1685

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The Santa Teresa and Santa Lucía ravelins were partially demolished at the beginning of the 20th century to make way for the construction of military barracks. The latter, Santa Lucía, was restored in 2007 as part of construction work on the new bus station (see p. 122). The rest of the ravelins have been undergoing restoration in recent years (2010-2011), together with their counterguards and covered way, with the help of the Government of Navarre.

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Socorro Gate The Socorro Gate, in reality made up of three successive gates (those of the ravelin, the Santa Isabel counterguard and the Citadel wall - the main one) with their corresponding sleeping (fixed) and movable bridges, dates from 1720. In that year it was removed from its original site, hard up against the Santa María Bastion, to its current one: centred in the wall. The aim: to be able to defend it from the enemy from the flanks of the bastions that guarded it, Santa María and Santiago.

Even today, if we stop on the longest of the three fixed bridges and look at the corresponding stretch of Citadel wall, we can make out, from the difference in the size of the ashlars, the original position of the Socorro Gate.

Today this bridge connects the Citadel with the Vuelta del Castillo (Castle Surround) by means of a “bomb-proof” vault.

In its original location stands the Chapel, where these days civil marriages are held.

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Main Gate of the Citadel The main gate of the Citadel, which dates from the end of the 16th century, is the one that opens on to the present-day Avenida del Ejército. Placed there is the 1571 inscription commemorating the builder of the fortress, Viceroy Vespasiano Gonzaga. Although there was a drawbridge leading to it, the citadel being entirely

surrounded by moats, when the San Antón and Victoria bastions were demolished in 1888 to make way for the first enlargement of the city, the moat was filled in and the drawbridge, already unusable, was removed.

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Guardhouse While the original guardhouse occupied the two vaults situated on either side of the vaulted tunnel leading into the enclosure from the Avenida del Ejército, it came to assume its present form when construction began in 1756.

Both porticoed huts, one on either side of the small plaza, are now used for warehousing and municipal office space.

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Oven The fortification’s old bread oven serves today as an exhibition centre and for avant-garde installations. Along with the Guardhouse, Weapons Hall, Magazine and Gunpowder Block, it was one of the five buildings that were conserved and restored when the Citadel was bequeathed by the Army to the Municipality in 1964.

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Gunpowder Block Formerly a granary, this was remodelled and covered from 1725 with bomb-proof vaults. Today it provides the Citadel with one more exhibition space. Along with the Guardhouse, Weapons Hall, Magazine and Oven, it was one of the five buildings that were conserved and restored when the Citadel was bequeathed by the Army to the Municipality in 1964.

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Magazine Built in 1695 by the engineer HĂŠrcules Torrelli, it is the oldest building in the enclosure. Today it houses art exhibitions.Along with the Guardhouse, Weapons Hall, Oven and Gunpowder Block, it was one of the five buildings that were conserved and restored when the Citadel was bequeathed by the Army to the Municipality in 1964.

Weapons Hall

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This was built in 1725 as part of the reforms planned by the prestigious Verboom for the City and Walls. It has four storeys and served as an artillery store. Today it hosts artistic and cultural events. Along with the Guardhouse, Magazine, Oven and Gunpowder Block, it was one of the five buildings that were conserved and restored when the Citadel was bequeathed by the Army to the Municipality in 1964.

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Bus Station Pamplona Bus Station, situated on Calle Yanguas y Miranda, occupies one of the most central areas of the city. Completed in 2007, its 40,000 square metres offer, apart from 52 bays, car parks and a commercial centre with restaurants, a cafeteria and other additional services.

Its construction has been a brilliant exercise in integrating new facilities into restoration of the formal structure of the monument itself. In 2005 work began on this substructure “hidden” beside the monument in the subsoil of its vanished glacis. The roof of the station converts into a great green sheet which, as though it were an exercise in origami, folds up together with the structure to reconstruct the defensive elements of the Pamplona Citadel’s Santa Lucia Ravelin – glacis,

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covered way, counterscarp and moat – which had disappeared years before to enable the development of the city with the Primer Ensanche (First Enlargement).

A green space of more than 30,000 m² has been recovered for residents, restoring the old citadel glacis that had once been occupied by military barracks.

Years later (from the beginning of 1972, when all these buildings disappeared due to the barracks being moved out of town), it had been converted into an asphalt parking space for all kinds of vehicles and which was also used during the San Fermín celebrations to host fiesta stalls.

The aggressive visual and environmental impact caused by the large parking area has thus been replaced by a green cloak which enfolds within it the heart of Pamplona’s land communications: the Bus Station.

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Entry Gate Loopholes or low embrasures Loopholes or high embrasures Caserns or bomb-proof vaults Stone gargoyles Casern windows Horseshoe space Ascent ramps Observation posts

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Stone paving Parapet Embrasures Merlon Cordon Scarp Capital angle Flanking angle Flank

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Gorge Counterscarp Countermine shaft entrance Covered way Glacis Stairs Defensive mound

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Glossary

A Angle of the bastion The angle formed by the face of the bastion and its flank.

Anima The bore of the barrel in artillery and firearms.

Arsenal Depot or general storehouse for weapons and other items of war.

Ashlar Large blocks of stone cut into regular shapes ready for building walls and masonry arches.

Ashlar work Work done with ashlars ordered and placed in well-pointed courses.

Artillery Weapon of war of the type designed to fire large projectiles over long distances by means of an explosive charge.

B Bank Steeply sloped reinforcement for the

lower part of the walls to make it stronger and keep siege machines at a distance.

Also to prevent digging or mining under the walls.

Banquette Long bench-shaped area of earth or rough stone, accessed by a ramp from inside the castle and which is large enough for the soldiers to occupy in two lines, protected from enemy fire up to shoulder height by the wall, parapet or fortification.

Bastion Pentagonal fortification projecting outward at the point where two curtain walls meet, comprising two faces that forms a salient angle, two flanks joining them to the wall and an entrance gorge.

Bastion face Each of the two walls that meet at a salient or which form the capital angle of the bastion.

Bastion flank Side of a military fort or the immediate area to the side. Part of the bastion forming an angle with the curtain wall and facing out to the front. Each of the walls joining the enclosure to the bastion faces.

Battery All the artillery ready to fire. Artillery unit, usually commanded by a captain,

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composed of a relatively small number of arms and men.

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Belt Stone, brick or adobe wall surrounding a fortress for its external defence. It must be of a height to impede easy scaling by besiegers and robust enough to resist the different attack methods of invaders. If the wall closes on itself it is called an enclosure.

Bomb-proof vault Vault that has been sufficiently reinforced to enable it to withstand the impact of howitzers and mortars in siege warfare and thus protect the garrison and its munitions.

Bonding Manner in which building materials (masonry, ashlars, brick or other elements) are arranged in a stonework construction. Different types of bonds are: stretcher, header, rowlock, etc‌

Borough Mediaeval fortresses built by feudal nobles to watch over the territory in their jurisdiction where groups of merchants and craftsmen etc., settled. The origin of many medieval cities.

Boss Part of the ashlar that sticks out from the construction, with rounded or bevelled arrises.

Breechloader Firearm that is loaded at the back (the lower part of the mechanism, not the muzzle).

Calibre Internal diameter or bore of a firearm barrel.

Cannon Artillery piece with a very long muzzle in relation to its calibre, used to shoot balls, shot or a certain type of hollow projectile.

Cannon instruments Artillery battery accessories.

Cannon Grip Semicircular indentation on the planks of the linstock to house the grips of the corresponding arm.

Caponier Fortification that originally consisted of a stockade with loopholes and embrasures at the same depth as the moat to defend it. In modern times the name is given to a gallery or casemate placed at various sites to flank one or more moats from the city.

Casemate Very strong vault for one or more artillery pieces. It was situated on the flank of the bastion and protected by the orillon, which housed several artillery pieces, with the aim of preventing the assailant from getting across the moat.

Casern Building with a bomb-proof cannon vault, built within the defence (bastion, fort etc.) and which also served as a barracks and storehouse for provisions, munitions and material.

Castle Walled group of buildings enclosing a place of arms and around which there are a series of dependencies with at least

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one habitable tower. A fortified construction. Additional defensive elements are: walls, bridges, towers, and the upper living quarters, known as the keep. Built specifically for the defence of strategic areas and of people, the establishment of noble power, watching over the area, attacks, etc.

Castle Wall or City Wall Stone, brick or adobe wall encircling a fortress as an external defence. It had to be high enough to deter climbing from the outside by attackers and strong enough to resist attack. If the wall encloses the area completely it is called an enclosure.

Cavalier High defensive feature within the fort to make it easier to protect with firearms or to dominate in the case of enemy occupation.

Cerca Old Spanish word for a town wall.

Chemise In mediaeval fortifications, a wall lower than the keep which it protects. In modern fortifications, covering of the earth embankments with masonry walls, the final layer done with stonework.

Citadel Fortified enclosed area usually in the shape of a regular polygon, intersecting the inside of a walled settlement which dominates it and constituting the last place of refuge.

Corbel Moulded architectural feature which protrudes on a vertical plane and is designed to hold something up.

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Cordon Perimeter torus on all the external parameters of the fortification separating the banked walls of the parapets from the embrasures, preventing them from being scaled. It normally consisted of one of the courses of stone near the upper part of the parameters.

Counterguard Outwork in a fort with two faces forming an angle, built in front of the bastions and ravelins for their defence.

Countermine Underground passage cut below the enemy to blow them up or to attack them as they work on their own underground tunnels. Countermine networks were dug around strongholds in preparation for these works.

Counterscarp Banked wall of the moat opposite the scarp, which is to say on the side facing the country next to the covered way.

Covered way Watch and access walkway which encircles and defends the moat surrounding the fortifications, comprising a banquette from which soldiers could fire over, using the glacis as a parapet.

Curtain wall Stretch of wall between two bastions in modern fortifications.

D Dead area Sector of the approaches that cannot be shot at from any angle.

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Drawbridge Strong, rigid piece wood that went over the moat. In case of enemy attack the bridge was raised using a complicated mechanism of pulleys, chains and weights. Raising the drawbridge stopped the attackers from getting in and worked to protect and reinforce the gate itself.

The connection between sleeper bridges and the fort was made by a drawbridge to try to prevent the enemy getting in.

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Fascine Tightly packed bundle of slender branches used by military engineers especially for rendering and binding earth into the embankments of the fortifications. They were also used to crown, set alight, etc.

Fence Artificial barricade of the height and thickness needed to resist a shot or a ricochet.

Fixed cannon

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Cannon inside the fortress.

Fort Fortified enclosure.

Embrasure Opening specifically for shooting with non-portable arms (e.g. cannon), made in fortifications, towers and turrets, as often in the base as in their walls or roofs.

Enclosure See Belt.

Esplanade Incline going from the covered walkway to the countryside. Highest part of the walls, on the edge of which the battlements are built. Stone flooring or framework with strong planks on which a battery’s gun carriages were mounted and moved.

F Facade Principal front of a building that faces the street or open space.

Face Either side of a town or castle wall. Also any of the six sides of a cut ashlar.

Fortín (Spanish term) Small fort.

Fortress Large fortified enclosure such as a castle, citadel etc.

Front Each of the two lengths of wall from which the ends of the flanks join to close the bastion and form its angle. Two bastions and the curtain wall that joins them form a bastioned front.

G Gargoyle Stone channel and outlet for water from the roof. Sometimes decorated with zoomorphic creatures, many of them fantastic.

Garrison Soldiers that garrison a city or castle.

Glacis Open area free of vegetation or obstacles

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all around a modern fortress, on a slight slope to make the enemy’s approach difficult. The area went right up to the edge of the covered way.

Gorge Entrance from the city to the bastion, or distance between the flanking angles.

Straight imaginary line for when there is no parapet joining the flanks of a defensive construction.

Graffito Piece of historical graffiti. Hand-done writing or drawing left on ancient monuments, typically carved or done with graphite.

Gunpowder Inflammable mixture used for incendiary devices and fireworks.

H Half moon See Ravelin.

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L Lienzo (Spanish word) Stretch of wall that goes between two consecutive towers or bastions.

Lined (or groove) bore In artillery pieces and all firearms in general, a barrel with helical rifling inside to increase the range.

Loophole Long, narrow opening in a wall for shooting out of. It was usually wider on the outside, so the hole flared out. A generic word that was even adopted by fusiliers in 20th-century forts.

Lunette Small bastion, tended to be isolated.

Usually protected and reinforced the defences on the angles of the ravelins and bastions.

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Hornwork External fortification made of demibastions joined by a curtain wall. Serves the same purpose as a tenaille but is stronger as it defends both the faces and curtain of the flanks. Usually had a ravelin in front of its curtain wall.

Howtizer Artillery piece that fires grenades, the length of which, relative to the diameter of the bore, is greater than a mortar and less than a cannon of the same calibre. It is mounted on a wheeled carriage to make it easier to move.

Magazine Building for keeping gunpowder and other explosives.

Masonry Traditional construction system in which stones which have not been specially cut are built up using lime mortar. Smaller stones are fitted into the gaps between the larger ones.

Many walls and castles were built in this way. Larger stones were used in the lower parts of the wall. Sometimes the two faces are different, in which case the outer one is worked more. In modern forts it is used to build walls from the entrance ravelins, counter

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guards etc. - anywhere not in the direct line of enemy fire.

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Merlon Each of the stretches of parapet between embrasures. Solid part of the breastwork between two battlements to protect the defending soldier on the ramparts or tower. Usually having loopholes, and sometimes with supports for the shutters on the battlements.

Mine Cavity made in a shaft, bottom of a bridge etc. in which to insert gunpowder and blow it up. Box full of gunpowder or bombs buried beneath some constructions which was set off if the enemy gained the fort.

Mine or Tunnel Underground gallery which is opened when forts are besieged, with a hidden room at the back full of explosives to destroy the city fortifications.

Mine or tunnel entrance Arched doorway giving access to the countermine.

Moat Deep excavation encircling the fort and making assault difficult as well as covering the defender’s movements.

Mortar (artillery) Artillery piece for firing shells. Short with high calibre.

Muzzle-loader Firearm that is loaded through its muzzle.

Observation Post Mound situated between embrasures so the artillery chief could climb up and indicate exactly which way to fire the cannon.

P Palisade See Stockade

Parade ground Open area inside a walled enclosure used for the changing or formation of troops.

Below the parade ground there could be a lower ward that was used for the same purpose.

Parapet Short terreplein over the main one, facing the countryside, to defend the soldiers' chests from being hit. In modern fortifications, a short terreplein on the outside of the covered way which defended the soldiers while they were shooting.

Piece See Cannon.

Plaster Layer of gypsum, stucco or other mixture put over the walls of a house to give it a smooth surface.

Platform The top of a bastion.

Poliorcetics Set of techniques and approaches for the taking and defending of strongholds. The art of siege warfare.

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Portcullis Barred gate made of iron to defend the entrance to a fort or other parts of the walled enclosure. Also, steel part with grooves in the cock of flintlock firearms; by banging into the flint it ignited the flashpan.

Porthole Opening in the parapet of wall or at the back of the battery for safe and accurate firing of cannon.

Position Topographical position of a fort.

Postern Secondary, small door to a fort, used for discreet entrances and exits to surprise the enemy or regroup the troops in the moat.

Pound To attack and destroy with artillery.

Pound (lb) Old measurement of weight in Castile, where the pound was divided into 16 ounces. In Aragon, the Balearic Islands, Catalonia and Valencia it had 12 ounces, 17 in the Basque country and 20 in Galicia and other quantities in other towns.

Putlog holes Holes in the wall to hold horizontal scaffolding planks or floor beams.

R Ravelin Semicircular outwork with two faces at a salient angle built beyond the curtain wall, the two demi-gorges of which constitute the counterscarp. Allows the curtain wall,

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access points and flanks of a bastion to be protected. Also called a "half moon".

Redan Protruding angle formed by a face and a flank adjacent to a bastion. A bastion has two redans.

Ricochet fire Method of firing cannon in which the amount of powder is reduced so there is less tension in the shot, thus making it possible to attack soldiers in the covered walkway. The battery of cannon was lined up with the covered walkway and the shells fell on the line, rebounding on the floor and the parapet. Invented by Vauban in the last quarter of the 17th century.

Rifle Portable firearm for the infantry replacing the crossbow and the blunderbuss. Made up of a steel or iron barrel, usually some eight to ten centimetres long, and a firing mechanism joined together at the breech.

Rough cut stone Blocks of stone smaller than ashlars, regularly sized, and cut less precisely.

Rowlock Brick laid on the long, narrow side with the small or "header" side exposed.

S Salvo A salute given by firing guns. A series of cannon explosions but without a projectile to honour or salute someone.

Simultaneous shot from several identical pieces of artillery.

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Sap Advance by the besiegers protected by their galleries or trenches which they have dug themselves, or under the shelter of the besieged fortification.

Scarp Slope that forms the wall of the main body of a city, from the cordon to the moat and counterscarp; or plane, also sloping but in the other direction, that forms the wall supporting the earth of the covered way.

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Stonework Any construction or part of it (wall, vault, etc.) made with stone or bricks and mortar. Also called stonework if they were made of adobe.

Stronghold Walled city or fortress.

Swab Instrument consisting of a long stick with a bristled cylinder at one end, used for cleaning the barrels of firearms.

Sentry Box Small hollow space for the shelter and defence of sentries, usually covered and with loopholes. Appeared and developed with bastioned fortification.

Sentry walk In mediaeval fortresses, the continuous passage around the exterior perimeter of the walls for the purposes of vigilance and shooting.

Shot Direction a firearm shoots in.

Sleeper Wood or Mudsill Static part of the floor of a bridge just before the drawn part, the length of which was usually insufficient to reach the scarp of the moat to be crossed.

Slope or gradient Imaginary sloping line that joined the embrasures to the glacis and other parts of the fort and showed the areas under attack from those embrasures. The same thing could be done from the batteries attacking the fort.

Stockade A row of stakes hammered into the ground vertically about 5 cm from each other, secured with horizontal strips. They were placed on the banquette of the covered way, in trenches and elsewhere.

T Tambour Small circular defence placed in front of the doors of a fortification.

Terreplein A mass of earth with which the containing wall of an enclosure is filled, or which is built up before and subsequently faced with masonry.

To chemise See Chemise.

To entrench To fortify a military position with trenches.

To flank To protect your own flanks. To threaten the enemy’s flanks. To be positioned in a castle, bastion, hill or suchlike, facing a town, fort, etc., so as to be able to reach them with your artillery fire crossing or passing through them.

(To lay a) header In construction: with the long side of the brick or stone laid at right angles to the face.

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Socorro Gate Drawbridge Sleeping (fixed) bridge Mine chambers Moat Scarp Cordon Parapet Sentry box Ravelin door Gorge Counterguard door

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Access passage to sentry box Traverse Counterscarp Parade ground Countermine shaft entrance Covered way Passage between covered way and traverse 20. Roadside post 21. Glacis 22. Glacis entrance to parade ground

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Bastion face Angle of the bastion Flank High embrasure Low embrasure Casemate Access tunnel to casemate Rear of the bastion Artillery access ramp Curtain wall Parapet walkway

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(To lay in a) stretcher bond In construction: with the long side of the brick or stone going in the same direction as the length of the face.

Tower Tall stronghold construction that can be part of a wall or independent and comes in many different shapes and sizes in terms of building and layout inside, but most were square.

Trench Defensive ditch permitting troops to shoot at the enemy while under cover as well as advancing towards over the battlefield to make a final assault.

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W Walled Protected or enclosed by walls.

Y Yard Unit of measurement equal to about three feet or 836 mm.

Turret Any fortification tower and in particular a circular one.

U Urban expansion area Land designated for new buildings on the outskirts of a town. The buildings that have been put up on this land.

V Vault Stone or brick built curved construction used to cover a space between two walls or a line of pillars. The different types are named after their shape: groin vault (semi-cylindrical, in half point sections); barrel vault (the result of crossing two cannon vaults at right angles).

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A walk around the Pamplona Fortifications

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Walk Course of the vanished wall Camino de Santiago

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1. San Bartolomé Fort [Interpretation Centre for the Walls of Pamplona] 2. Arga Lift 3. Labrit Walkway 4. Labrit Bastion 5. Ronda del Obispo Barbazán (Magdalena Front) 6. Cathedral of Santa María la Real 7. Redín Bastion 8. Low Bastion of Our Lady of Guadalupe 9. Los Reyes Ravelin 10. Francia or Zumalacárregui Gate 11. Low Bastion of El Pilar 12. El Abrevador Bastion 13. Archivo General de Navarra 14. Town Hall 15. Parma Bastion 16. Paseo de Ronda - Francia Front 17. Descalzos Lift 18. Nuevo Gate 19. Gonzaga Bastion 20. San Roque Ravelin 21. San Nicolás Gate 22. La Taconera Bastion 23. La Taconera Gate 24. La Victoria Bastion 25. Santiago Bastion 26. Santa María Bastion 27. Real Bastion and Cavalier 28. San Antón Bastion 29. Santa Ana Ravelin 30. Santa Isabel Ravelin and Counterguard 31. Santa Clara Ravelin and Counterguard 32. Santa Lucía Ravelin 33. Socorro Gate 34. Main Gate of the Citadel 35. Guardhouse 36. Oven 37. Gunpowder Block 38. Magazine 39. Weapons Hall 40. Bus Station

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