Youniqueness

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INTRODUCTION “Youniqueness” is a research thesis that celebrates the acceptance of the natural female body through the use of sustainable biomaterials inspired by everything that is generally considered a skin imperfection.

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In all theNIQUE historical periods, women are subjected to unattainable YO ideals to follow in order to reach the perfect beauty.

YOU Research Thesis by: Paola Curci Supervisor: Debora Sinibaldi Co-supervisor: Paola Bertola

Politecnico di Milano Scuola del Design Design for the Fashion System Academic year: 2019/2020

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Very often these wrong ideals deform the anatomy of the feminine body. The progressive liberation of the woman and her body, frees us from these extreme cases, but the ideal still remains in the imagination, especially in the fashion system. In the last few years it seems that there is a new topic that could change the fashion industry: INCLUSIVENESS.

Inclusiveness in terms of form, sex, handicap, race, colour, tradition and skin.

So it seems to be the announcement of true freedom in the sense of being yourself as a human being on the planet, in an authentic way. In order to investigate and celebrate this complex theme, this research thesis analyses the concepts of: inclusiveness, the evolution of the classical beauty criteria, the multiculturalism, the significance of of nude colour and the relationship between body and natural elements. After the theoretical part, the thesis will move to the project through an experimentation of sustainable biomaterials inspired by skin and an inclusive capsule collection, adjustable for any kind of body shape.

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ABSTRACT Bibliographic investigation Inclusiveness and its relationship with current society Evolution of the classical criteria of female beauty Body inclusivity Multiculturalism The nude colour The acceptance of the natural body The theoretical phase demonstrates how, over the years, we have gone from aspiration to the perfect body to body inclusivity. Body inclusivity means acceptance of different body shapes without pre-established beauty standards. Body inclusivity is acceptance of the natural body. So I asked myself how to translate this new naturalness into the project and I thought of naturalness in terms of:

Three main themes have been identified in the bibliographic research: inclusiveness, diversity and the new naturality.

Inclusiveness is closely linked to multiculturalism and the multiethnic society that populates the whole world. Diversity has to do with the acceptance of the “different”. The defect category is therefore overcome; diversity becomes an opportunity to appreciate the uniqueness of people. We are all unique in our diversity. New naturality is associated to the acceptance of the natural body with its imperfections.

These concepts will be translated in the collection respectively through: skin tones, fabric textures and biomaterials.

1) natural fabrics 2) natural dyes 3)development of biomaterials inspired by skin imperfections 4) garments with straight cuts to minimize fabric waste.

Project development A capsule collection focused on the concepts of inclusiveness and diversity.

Focus on sustainability and natural materials.

Development of biomaterials inspired by human skin textures. Biomaterials represent the link with natural body: natural innovative materials in perfect harmony with human body.

INCLUSIVENESS

DIVERSITY

NEW NATURALITY

translated in the project as

translated in the project as

translated in the project as

SKIN TONES

FABRIC TEXTURES

BIOMATERIALS

MOODBOARD “Our wealth is made by our diversity: the other is precious to us to the extent that we are different” . Albert Jacquard The moodboard shows a large range of skin colours, from the most pale to the darkest one.

It is also evident the presence of popular skin imperfections like stretch marks and spots. The aim of these images is to give a new role to them in order to trasform imperfections into something beautiful and unique, different for each human being.

The aim is to create a strong and honest sense of empathy among different women. A multicultural community of women with different backgrounds, different skin tones and different physical imperfections.

The moodboard demonstrates how everyone can be unique with its imperfections, despite being different from the others.

INCLUSION SKIN TONES EMPATHY

The colour palette called "the nudes" refers to the original meaning of “nude” that indicates naked human skin. In a globalized world it becomes difficult to associate "nude" with a Caucasian color, even if the term continues to indicate pale pink with a beige shade. It is therefore necessary to define the nude color not as a single shade, but as the color of the nude body which varies from light pink to dark brown, passing through an infinite number of shades based on your skin.

SUSTAINABILITY

COLORS. The nudes

Natural fabrics

Natural dye

Biomaterials

Straight cuts

FABRICS The fabric folder features fabrics with a pale cream colour. Subsequently, through the use of natural dyes, the fabrics will take on colors in accordance with the color palette of the project.

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SINGLE GAUZE

100% organic cotton YOUNIQUE DIVERSITY

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100% organic cotton

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SILK TULLE

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The natural ingredients for the dyeing

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BLACK TEA

COCOA POWDER

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LINEN

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COTTON GAUZE

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100% organic linen

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PERCALLE COTTON

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CUTCH TREE

NUT TREE

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The goal is to start from a neutral color YO NIQUENESS 03 NIQUE YO NIQUE YOUNIQUE YOUNIQUE that symbolizes the human skin as YO DIVERSITY DIVERSITY DIVERSITY DIVERSITY you NIQUE DIVERSITY a basic element common to all and, NIQUE YO NIQUE subsequently, to recreate the shades of YO YO NIQUE YO NIQUE DIVERSITY DIVERSITY YO NIQUEDIVERSITY YO YOUNIQUE DIVERSITY YOUNIQUE DIVERSITY you NIQUE YO NIQUE DIVERSITY DIVERSITY the skin of the different ethnic groups.

SILK CHIFFON SILK CRÊPE In this way, the concepts of uniqueness 100% silk 100% silk and diversity are also transferred to youNIQUEYOUNIQUE YOUNIQUE YOUNIQUEYOUNIQUE YOUNIQUE DIVERSITY YO NIQUE YO YOUNIQUE NIQUE YO DIVERSITY NIQUE YO DIVERSITY NIQUE DIVERSITY DIVERSITY the chromatic choice.

DIVERSITY DIVERSITY YO NIQUE DIVERSITYDIVERSITY DIVERSITYDIVERSITY Since it is not possible to obtain vivid and bright colors with natural dyeing, the darker tones will not be present in experiments with natural dyeing, but will be implemented in the color palette of biomaterials.

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The natural dyeing process

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Preparation of the fabric

The first step is to wash the fabrics thoroughly with a neutral pH soap. It is also a good idea to let the fabric soak in clean water overnight.

In this way, in the following steps, the color will penetrate better. you NIQUE

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The etching

To fix the colour, mordant substances are used which have the function of binding the dye to the fabric.Vinegar was used as a mordant in the project. One part of vinegar for every four parts of water. The mixture should be left to boil over low heat for an hour while the fabric is immersed. you NIQUE DIVERSITY

The dyeing bath

The natural ingredient is boiled in water for at least an hour and then the mixture is filtered to remove the ingredient used that could interfere with the coloring. At this point, the fabric can be removed from the etching bath NIQUE and you without rinsing it, put it in the dyeing DIVERSITY bath. The fabric must soak for at least a couple of hours, stirring occasionally to ensure that the dye is homogeneous.

Colour fixing

To fix the colours, the still wet but well wrung fabric should be immersed in a container with water and coarse salt - a tablespoon of salt for every liter of water -. It is left to act overnight and the fabric is removed and left to dry.

SUSTAINABLE BIOMATERIALS The experimental part of this thesis focuses on the experimentation of biomaterials inspired by human skin patterns.

With the advent of fast fashion, low-quality fabrics have invaded the markets and subsequently ours: landfills and waterways. Biomaterials represent a sustainable response to fast fashion. In this thesis, different “recipes” of bioplastics are tested in order to obtain non-polluting materials that can replace plastic. Bioplastic is a biobased polymer derived from a biomass, and it may or not be biodegradable. In this thesis, all the bioplastics are biodegradable. Bioplastics are generally comprised of a biopolymer, a plasticizer and a solvent. Bioplastics have advantages because they are natural materials, but, at the same time, they also have some disadvantages. Durability is a critical point for biomaterials: in fact, over time, they tend to deteriorate easily. It is therefore important to know how to create performing biomaterials.

BIOPLASTIC SAMPLES DEVELOPED AT HOME

swine gelatin

swine gelatin

swine gelatin

corn starch

agar agar foam

agar agar foam

agar agar

agar agar

agar agar

corn starch

agar agar + cotton

agar agar + silk

agar agar + linen

agar agar foam

agar agar + cotton

agar agar + cotton

swine gelatin

swine gelatin

The project Youniqueness aims to enhance the diversity and uniqueness of every human being through the use of biomaterials inspired by the characteristics of the skin: moles, vitiligo, freckles, wrinkles, stretch marks become the protagonist patterns of these innovative materials.

These natural materials are perfectly consistent with the theme of naturalness and acceptance of the natural body with its countless imperfections

INSPIRATIONAL PATTERNS

THE CAPSULE COLLECTION YOUNIQUENESS collection, derived from the research process, the inspirational mood and the reference concept, consists of four outfits.

It is a collection consisting of a few outfits because it is a “manifesto” of the theme of inclusiveness. Few items, characterized by simple lines that can enhance the use of innovative biomaterials and that can be adapted to different body sizes.

AIMS OF THE COLLECTION

Dress women with different physique the garments are oversized and adjustable through drawstrings Enhance diversity through the use of bioplastics and fabric patterns bioplastic garments as a second skin garments that slide over the body and adapt to its shape

Biomaterial recipe Iconic piece of the collection.

The bioplastic bodysuit

INGREDIENTS water 40 ml glycerol 50 g swine gelatin 56 g milk 12 g

Celebrate biomaterials and biocomposites soft and minimal silhouette

cacao juice 8 g

RECIPE 1. Add water, glycerol and gelatin into a pot.

2. Cook over medium heat and stir until the solution starts to boil and becomes viscous.

3. Add milk and then the cacao solution; whisk the solution until it becomes dense.

4. Tape down a wooden frame onto a non stick surface and pour in the solution.

5. Once dry, cut out the bioplastic from the frame.

OBSERVATION

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rigidity transparency elasticity YO NIQUENESS smoothness Enhance the diversity deformation

The material is shiny and compact.

Swine gelatine gives compactness to YO NIQUEthe biomaterial, which is very resistant when subjected to efforts. By adding glycerin, a more elastic material would be obtained.

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Biopolymer

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SWINE GELATIN BASED BIOPLASTIC

YO NIQUE Gelatin Animal based bioplastic

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Plasticizer

Additive

Solvant

YO NIQUE Glycerol Milk

Swine Gelatin

Water

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SHOOTING

SHOOTING

COMMUNICATION

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CONCLUSIONS The project Youniqueness is presented as a PROJECT SUMMARY of three themes that have been analyzed in the bibliographic research: - inclusiveness - femininity free from pre-established canons - innovative unconventional materials.

Many emerging brands and designers are already addressing this issue; the question remains how to transform these models into mainstream fashion and the mass market. In fact, bio-derived materials have higher costs than traditional fabrics and materials. It will therefore be necessary to see if the consumer of the future will be willing to invest in a more expensive, but innovative and natural product.

Furthermore, the pandemic crisis we are facing has brought out again the growing gap that exists between men and women in the world of work and beyond. A new sensitivity towards the female universe is therefore emerging.

Innovation on materials and new femininity could be two interesting trends for the present and the future of fashion. Will the consumer be ready to support these concepts?