Papercut Magazine MBFW Runway Recap F/W 2011

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2011

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FOREWARD

PAPERCUT’S FIRST FASHION WEEK...AND WHAT A WEEK IT WAS!

For every new kid on the block, there’s always some kind of initiation. An inaugural activity, if you will, that cements one’s identity with more established members of the same group. For college sororities, that might mean running around campus half-naked with a keg of jungle juice; for fashion publications, that rite of passage means tromping around Lincoln Center (as fast as five-inch heels can go), maybe half-naked (or maybe covered in fur, whether real or faux), balancing a tall glass of bubbly (or, rather, a plastic cup of sponsor Kim Crawford’s Sauvignon Blanc). The Fall 2011 New York shows heralded Papercut’s first fashion week, and we’d like to think that we passed with flying colors (preferably Pantone’s Honeysuckle and Deep Teal!).

A day in the life went something like this: arrive; check into hotel; taxi to meeting at Hotel Chelsea; taxi uptown to Lincoln Center; shows; coffee; shows; more coffee; pit stop at Rosa Mexicano for taquitos and liquid sustenance; another meeting; more shows; back downtown to boutique party; taxi back to one last show; taxi downtown to change; party; stuff face; sleep; wake up, hope there’s time to shower (if not, throw on new Mercura shades) and do it all over again.

Somewhere in the mix, we found the time to take some photos and write some reviews (many thanks to our photographers, Greg and Diallo). From Joy Cioci’s ethereal femininity and firstever collection, to Sachin + Babi’s muted palette and tailored, ladylike silhouettes, we’re thrilled to share our favorites from the season’s emerging set of designers. Welcome—officially—to the Papercut club, and cheers to many more fashion weeks to come.

Much love, The Papercut team

TOP-BOTTOM: A view of Lincoln Center (looks pretty calm on the outside...); Lubov Azria and Karolina Kurkova are swarmed by the paparazzi backstage at Hervé Léger; finale walk at Tibi.

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IN THIS ISSUE DAY 1

DAY 5

06 BCBGMAXAZRIA 07 Richard Chai 08 Duckie Brown 09 Luca Luca 10 Tadashi Shoji 11 Christian Siriano 12 Mara Hoffman

54 Jenny Packham 55 Carolina Herrera 56 Carlos Miele 57 Tracy Reese 58 Monique Lhuillier 59 Betsey Johnson 60 Woolrich John Rich & Bros.

61 Callula Lillibelle 62 GUiSHEM 64 Sachin + Babi

DAY 2 16 Ruffian 17 Perry Ellis 18 Farah Angsana 19 Rebecca Taylor 20 Rebecca Minkoff 21 Nicole Miller 22 Cynthia Rowley 24 Academy of Art University 25 Venexiana 26 Joy Cioci

DAY 3 30 General Idea 31 Jill Stuart 32 Prabal Gurung 33 ADAM 34 Vivienne Tam 35 Mik Cire 36 Charlotte Ronson 37 Toni Francesc 38 G-Star RAW

DAY 6 68 Badgley Mischka 69 Vera Wang 70 Jen Kao 71 Hervé Léger By Max Azria 72 Dennis Basso 73 J. Mendel 74 Tibi 75 Narciso Rodriguez 76 Mackage 78 Trias 80 Bibhu Mohapatra

DAY 7 84 Michael Kors 86 Nanette Lepore 87 Alexandre Herchcovitch 88 Anna Sui 90 Elie Tahari

DAY 4

DAY 8

42 Lela Rose 43 Max Azria 44 Cynthia Steffe 45 Tommy Hilfiger 46 Custo Barcelona 48 Zang Toi 50 Yoana Baraschi

94 Son Jung Wan 96 Ivana Helsinki 98 L.A.M.B.

ALL PHOTOGRAPHY (UNLESS NOTED OTHERWISE) BY GREGORY BROWN AT HTTP://WWW.GREGORYBROWNPHOTO.COM/ 3

DAY 1

BCBGMAXAZRIA

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RICHARD CHAI

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DUCKIE BROWN

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LUCA LUCA

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TADASHI SHOJI

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CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

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MARA HOFFMAN

DESIGNER: Mara Hoffman NYC VIA: Buffalo, NY LAUNCH: 2000 HER AESTHETIC AND INSPIRATION: Sexy, funky swimwear; ethnic prints inspired by nature and her world travels; bold colors with black accents; soft, bohemian dresses perfect for breezing through the bazaars of Morocco. BIG BREAK: After toiling away in design school (Parsons and Central Saint Martins), Mara was stopped on the streets of New York by Sex in the City stylist Patricia Field, complimented on her outfit and the rest, as they say, is history. FAVORITES FROM THE FALL 2011 COLLECTION: Full-length, original silk-print dress with matching veil—pattern is pretty enough that it doesn’t overwhelm, and the fabric falls oh-so-lovely. Black, rope-knit corset crop top. Men’s textured, leather bomber, for the hipsterchic in all of us. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Katy Perry, Halle Berry, Megan Fox, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, Drew Barrymore, Lauren Conrad and Eva Longoria. LOVE: Her blog. Stream-of-consciousness in style, featuring random tidbits from photos and works of art to musings on her inspiration. MARA SAYS: “Let’s runway to the jungle, for real.” Truly pieces for the global traveler, who calls the world home.

PHOTOS BY DIALLO FERGUSON

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DAY 2

RUFFIAN

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PERRY ELLIS

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FARAH ANGSANA

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REBECCA TAYLOR

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REBECCA MINKOFF

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NICOLE MILLER

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CYNTHIA ROWLEY

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ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY

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VENEXIANA

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JOY CIOCI

DESIGNER: Joy Cioci NYC VIA: Florida LAUNCH: 2011 HER AESTHETIC AND INSPIRATION: “Romantic, draping, pretty, soft…and sexy”; an ethereal, fairytale quality; romantic lilacs and roses, and ladylike grays and nudes; rabbit fur, Swarovski crystal, cashmere, silk and chiffon all speak to the epitome of femininity. LONG TIME COMING: Having come from a solid design background—with experience at both established fashion houses (Gucci, Carolina Herrera and Nina Ricci) and independent brands (Chelsea Flower and WiNK)—Joy sought to make her own line a meeting of those two worlds: accessible luxury. FAVORITES FROM THE FALL 2011 COLLECTION: Difficult to play favorites. The collection melds seamlessly as a whole, and each look is as gorgeous and inspired as the last. A bomber jacket in silk crepe, embroidered with Swarovski crystal and paired with pale pink ryder pants were just as lust-worthy in person as they were in a WWD teaser. Tree bark pleated yoke pants and shorts added volume and dimension to a marbled leather jacket and fleece corset bodysuit. Oversized cashmere cable tunics and matching chevron knit leggings were luxuriously cozy; a silk georgette scalloped and beaded dress in dusky rose had an air of mystery under a hooded velvet coat with knit rabbit fur sleeves. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Check out Brooklyn Decker on the red carpet of the Vanity Fair Oscar party, in Joy’s “Lisa” dress. Not a bad start. LOVE: Absolutely…everything.

JOY SAYS: That her Mercedes Benz Fashion Week launch was “a long time coming, and felt weird—I had been working for other labels for so long that it felt like I was doing it for someone else.” Luckily, though, it sounds like she’ll get used to her own success: “Expect a lot more.

My goal is to create versatile pieces, not necessarily quintessential to the season, or following whatever trend. I want the freedom to play around with things.”

PHOTOS BY DIALLO FERGUSON

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DAY 3

GENERAL IDEA

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JILL STUART

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PRABAL GURUNG

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ADAM

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VIVIENNE TAM

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MIK CIRE

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CHARLOTTE RONSON

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TONI FRANCESC

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G-STAR RAW

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DAY 4

LELA ROSE

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MAX AZRIA

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CYNTHIA STEFFE

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TOMMY HILFIGER

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CUSTO BARCELONA

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ZANG TOI

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YOANA BARASCHI

DESIGNER: Yoana Baraschi NYC VIA: Bucharest, Romania LAUNCH: 2002 HER AESTHETIC AND INSPIRATION: Knitwear; young, fun and playful; a new print every season; vintage embroidery; a strong sense of color and love for traditional artisanal techniques. Made for flirting with boys and dancing on banquets. BORN THIS WAY: “Raised in a family of artists, rich in color and style. Yoana’s mother, Elli Baraschi, was an educator and a true fashion icon who felt that being stylish and elegant was the ultimate creative expression for a woman. Her father, Constantin Baraschi, a leading figure in the Romanian art world, was a renowned sculptor and Dean of the Fine Arts Institute.” FAVORITES FROM THE FALL 2011 COLLECTION: A beautifully draped, rust-colored, floor-length dress, that pools at the feet with a deep-V neck and knotted shoulders. Rich, belted fur jacket with an immense collar. Nude, polka-dot blouse, complete with tie and ballon sleeves. Grey and white fur vest with cap sleeves. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Halle Berry, Sienna Miller, Paris Hilton, Rachel Bilson, Heidi Klum and Lauren Conrad. LOVE: The designer’s angelic face, extensive (and eclectic!) background and her fun, user-friendly website. YOANA’S FALL 2011 COLLECTION WAS ABOUT: “Hypernature: a digital-age adventure in a faux-real world where heightened nature becomes hyper-colored for a surreal effect.” As brought to life by androgynous Serbian-Australian model Andrej Pejic.

PHOTOS BY NICOLE BECHARD

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DAY 5

JENNY PACKHAM

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CAROLINA HERRERA

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CARLOS MIELE

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TRACY REESE

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MONIQUE LHUILLIER

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BETSEY JOHNSON

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WOOLRICH JOHN RICH & BROS.

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PHOTOS BY NICOLE BECHARD

CALLULA LILLIBELLE PHOTOS BY DIALLO FERGUSON

PHOTOS BY DIALLO FERGUSON

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GUiSHEM

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PHOTOS BY NICOLE BECHARD

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SACHIN + BABI

PHOTOS BY NICOLE BECHARD

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DAY 6

BADGLEY MISCHKA

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VERA WANG

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JEN KAO

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HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA

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DENNIS BASSO

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J. MENDEL

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TIBI

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NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

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MACKAGE

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TRIAS

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PHOTOS BY NICOLE BECHARD

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BIBHU MOHAPATRA

DESIGNER: Bibhu Mohapatra. NYC VIA: Orissa, India. LAUNCH: 2009.

HIS AESTHETIC AND INSPIRATION: Rich palettes; asymmetrical and geometrical shapes; elegant strength and purposeful details; custom couture; evening gowns and cocktail dresses; glamour and fur, dahling. Inspired by a love of his native treasures: sumptuous Indian fabrics, vibrant colors and intricate crafts. YOU’VE COME A LONG WAY, BABY: Bibhu got his start at a young age, designing dresses for his sister. In June 2010, he was inducted as a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. FAVORITES FROM THE FALL 2011 COLLECTION: Floor-length gown, half-matte black, half-sequined, with asymmetric sleeves and a cutout shoulder. Cropped winter white Mongolian fur jacket. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Salma Hayek, Cate Blanchett, Gwyneth Paltrow and Snookie. Just kidding. LOVE: The FUR. The elegance. Also the Bibhu Mohapatra font on his website.

BIBHU SAYS: “My cultural heritage has always been influential in my design process even though it seeps through in many subtle ways. My work is always a study of opposites. The balance between my Indian heritage and my training and experience in the west is what I think sets me apart.”

PHOTOS BY NICOLE BECHARD

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DAY 7

MICHAEL KORS

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NANETTE LEPORE

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ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH

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ANNA SUI

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ELIE TAHARI

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DAY 8

SON JUNG WAN

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IVANA HELSINKI

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L.A.M.B.

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