Dales Life Autumn 2020 by Dales Life

FREE Autumn 2020

HOME & GARDEN | LIFESTYLE | WILDLIFE | FOOD & DRINK

YORKSHIREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FAVOURITE FREE MAGAZINE AUTUMN 2020

Mouthwatering recipes from Shaun Rankin and James Martin Autumn Glory Bright and beautiful seasonal plants Winning Ways Five fabulous free-to-enter competitions Wild Wonders Otters are back in the Dales

Suppliers of beautiful kitchens, bathrooms & bedrooms 2

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

County Kitchens (Leyburn) Ltd

yorkshire-kitchens.co.uk

Showroom: Belle Vue Offices, Market Place, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 5AW Telephone: 01969 624274 Open: Monday to Friday 9am-5pm, Saturday 10am-1pm Please ask for our complimentary brochure. Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

DOVETAIL INTERIORS • FURNITURE • HOME ACCESSORIES • GIFTS •

New collection of The Chateau by Angel Strawbridge

17 MARKET PLACE, BEDALE, DL8 1ED 01677 426464 • dovetailinteriors.co.uk 4

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Welcome

LESSONS TO BE LEARNED

Lockdown has been tough for everyone, but there have been positives too. Restrictions on everyday life have made us rethink our priorities. Spending time with family and friends, and belonging to a supportive community, are things we won’t take for granted in future. Many of us have reconnected with nature over the last few months, either by gardening or by roving in the countryside. If you want your garden to look spectacular in autumn you’ll find plenty of inspiration on p18. And if you love wildlife you’ll enjoy our feature on how otters are gradually returning to local waterways. Personally, I have spent a lot of time in the kitchen, practising the recipes in this issue’s bumper food section. I love them, and I’m sure you will too!

DON’T DESERT THE DALES!

DALES LIFE ON FACEBOOK @Dales.Life.Magazine Dales news and views, gardening tips, recipes, nature notes and more.

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SUBSCRIBE A subscription to Dales Life means you’ll never miss another issue – and it makes a great gift daleslife.com/subscribe

As things edge back towards normality, we cannot stress strongly enough how vital it is for you to support Dales businesses. Now, more than ever, they need your help. Artisan food and drink producers, farm shops, independent retailers, pubs, restaurants, garden centres, galleries… the list of talented Dales entrepreneurs seems endless. And we can’t afford to lose them. Many have changed the way they operate – by introducing takeaway or delivery services – and all of them have remodelled their workplaces to keep clients and staff safe. They’re ready for you, so give them the backing they need. Spend your money locally, and make sure the local businesses you know and trust stay afloat! Opinions or statements expressed in this magazine are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Dales Life.

Sue Gillman and the Dales Life Team Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

b i k e r b e s p o k e . c o. u k 6

Harrogate: 01423 847 662 . York: 01904 819 948 . | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Leyburn: 01969 623 020

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Contents

11 LIFE STYLE

Inspiring ideas for your home and garden.

18 AUTUMN JEWELS

Bring extra colour and interest to your garden with these seasonal stunners, chosen by Adam Appleyard.

24 OTTERLY AMAZING

Otters are returning to the Dales. Brian Pike reports on how they have clawed their way back from the brink of extinction.

31 GARDEN NOTES

Garden news, products and advice for the autumn months ahead.

11 Autumn 2020

36 CHEF’S TABLE

Yorkshire chef Shaun Rankin shares his delicious treacle tart recipe.

42 THE DISCERNING DINER

Takeaway food has never tasted so good. Claudia Blake samples Vennell’s ‘fine dining at home’ menu.

49 FOOD NOTES

Food news, events and fabulous local produce.

52 PORK LIFE

Happy pigs, mouthwatering meat and tidy woodland, that’s a winning combination behind a new Mashambased business.

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Contents 56 COMPETITION TIME

92 IN BUSINESS

60 FOR THE LOVE OF

98 A SLICE OF

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re giving away some fantastic prizes for five lucky winners. APPLES Some of the finest apples are grown in British orchards; now is the time to enjoy them.

68 EASY ENTERTAINING

Skye McAlpine shares her love for food and entertaining with these simple colourful recipes.

76 TASTE OF THE

SEASON Seasonal food is tastier and more nutritious.. These dishes showcase foods at the height of their flavour.

84 BEST OF BRITISH

James Martin celebrates the unique food of the British Isles.

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We meet the creative team behind Holme Design in Bedale. SUNSHINE Simple dishes by Letitia Clark from her kitchen in Sardinia.

106 SNAP HAPPY

A collection of wonderful images taken by our readers during lockdown.

112 COLLECTED WORKS Brian Pike reports on Minton and explains why it is so prized.

129 TO DINE FOR

Great places to eat and stay in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales.

112 Editor: Sue Gillman Deputy Editor: Brian Pike Advertising: Sue Gillman Art Editor: Stefan Suchomski Proof Reader: Alison Farrell Proprietor: Sue Gillman Contributors: Adam Appleyard, Claudia Blake, Letitia Clark, James Martin, Skye McAlpine, Andrew Parker, Brian Pike, Shaun Rankin, Jon Vennell. Cover Image: RSPB images. Dales Life 90 Tadcaster Road, York YO24 1LT t. 01904 629295, 01904 279499 m. 07970 739119 e. sue@daleslife.com www.daleslife.com

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

B e a r C o t ta g e Rustic Country Style Design

Curtains & Blinds, Fabric, Furniture, New Interiors and Gifts The Cattle Market, Market Place, Hawes, DL8 3RD Tel 01969 666077

www.bearcottageinteriors.co.uk

PREMIUM STOCKIST:

Thirsk Decorating Centre The Old Sorting Office, Newsham Road, Thirsk YO7 1PU 01845 440668 sales@thirskdecoratingcentre.co.uk

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LIFESTYLE

inspiring ideas for your home and garden Clockwise from centre: Birds and Berries FABRIC from The National Trust collection by Sandersons, milnersofleyburn.co.uk Bamboo handle SERVING SET from a selection at rebeccaudall.com Delightful CUP decorated with cabbage and peas, RHS Kitchen Garden Collection, rhs.org.uk Jade green fish SALT AND PEPPER set by Hannah Turner, Yorkshire Wildlife Trust, ywtshop.org.uk Mini HARE sculpture in cold cast bronze at staceymooreart.com Grapefruit and blood orange CANDLE, ellajames.co.uk

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

REDECORATING THIS AUTUMN We have made it easier than ever to find your perfect colour

We stock the Dulux Tailor Made Collection which offers over 1200 colours that can be mixed in any finish. Finishes available in Flat Matt, Matt, Soft Sheen, Silk, Eggshell, Satinwood and Gloss

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For over 40 years we’ve designed and created bespoke kitchens, interiors and furniture across Thirsk, Yorkshire and throughout the UK. Our skilled craftsmen create unique pieces that are built to last a lifetime. Every one of our designs has unique features – from kitchens with individual style to furniture crafted just for your home. We love to discuss new projects and design ideas. For friendly advice please call us or visit our website. Unit 1 Concept Park, Thirsk Ind. Est. Thirsk, N. Yorkshire YO7 3NH 01845 523562 grovehouseinteriors.co.uk

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LIFESTYLE

inspiring ideas for your home and garden Clockwise from centre: Delightful range of homeware from Sophie Allportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new DUCK COLLECTION, Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, 01677 426464 Sitting hare TABLE LAMP with exposed ears, Russell Home Interiors & Gifts, Leyburn, 01969 629305 Vibrant CUSHION from The Chateau Collection by Angel Strawbridge, Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, 01677 426464 Copper LED autumn CANDLE trio, see the range at lights4fun.co.uk Stunning silver-plated bee BUTTER DISH with knife, athomeinthecountry.co.uk Elegant striped cotton TABLE CLOTH by Tori Murphy at torimurphy.com

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Escape the ordinary at Russell Home Interiors

Nestled in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales lies Russell Home Interiors and Gifts. We focus on stylish and affordable furniture for your home and unique gifts for friends and family. We are passionate about local handmade products and work with many designers to offer you a wide variety of ideas for your home. We offer a variety of services including bespoke kitchen splashbacks, interior design and furniture made to order.

1 5 M A R K E T P L AC E , L E Y BU R N, N O RT H YO R K S H I R E D L 8 5 B G 01969 629305 facebook.com/RussellHomeinteriorsandGifts

Shop Online or In Our Masham Shop Shop consciously this Autumn at our second-hand cashmere shop. Offering a huge range of 100% cashmere jumpers, cardigans, scarves and gloves in every colour under the rainbow for both men and women.

5 Leyburn Road, Masham, HG4 4ER (in Co-op car park) • 01765 688991 www.nearlynewcashmere.co.uk 14

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LIFESTYLE

inspiring ideas for your home and garden Clockwise from top right: William Morris & Co Melsetter WALLPANEL, Bear Cottage Interiors, Hawes. 01969 666077 Bronze diving otter SCULPTURE by David Meredith, Pyramid Gallery, York. 01904 641187 Dark green swallows MUG by Sara Miller, Dovetail Interiors, Bedale, 01677 426464 Teal knitted CUSHION with elegant zebras, Mainsgill Farm Shop, Richmond, 01325 718860 A pair of unusual leopard CANDLE HOLDERS made from resin, oka.com Winter Berries SCENTED CANDLE with notes of cinnamon and nutmeg, annabeljames.co.uk

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

BENceramics ARNUP

AUTUMN CERAMICS with BARRY STEDMAN, PHILIP EVANS, MAGGIE GARDINER on display September and October and online at www.pyramidgallery.com

01904 641187

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

www.pyramidgallery.com

WINNER 2019/20

AS SEEN ON

NEW BUSINESS 2018

FINALIST

SHOP ONLINE www.staceymoore.co.uk | PHONE 01969 667146 VISIT OUR TWO GALLERIES | HAWES MARKET PLACE DL8 3QX | RICHMOND 18 MARKET PLACE DL10 4PX

Open Daily 10-5 closed Sundays | Social Media @staceymooreart

BRIGHT, DYNAMIC PORTRAITS AND ANIMAL ARTWORK FROM THE HEART OF NORTH YORKSHIRE

www.vickidavidson.com hello@vickidavidson.com Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Autumn Jewels Bring extra colour and interest to your garden with these six seasonal stunners, chosen by Adam Appleyard

THIS PAGE Acer Palmatum Seiryu, autumn foliage 18

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Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

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he natural world may be gradually shutting up shop for the year, but autumn is potentially the most dramatic, varied and vibrantly colourful time of year for us gardeners. In spring and summer it’s the flowers that provide most of the eye-candy. But as winter begins to loom on the horizon, berries, seed heads and vividly tinted leaves join forces with a few stubborn, late-season blooms to create a glorious grand finale. Of course, how good your garden looks in autumn depends to a large extent on what you stock it with. Here are six of my favourite plants, each of which will give your backyard a definite end-of-year boost.

SPLENDID SEEDPODS

Physalis alkekengi Chinese lantern

Seedpods don’t come much brighter or brasher than the papery orange teardrops that enclose the solitary fruit of Physalis alkekengi, the so-called Chinese (or Japanese) lantern. If you love bringing bits and bobs in from the garden to decorate your house, these are an absolute must. Physalis alkekengi is reputed to be invasive – some people even recommend growing it containers to stop it becoming a problem – but I can’t say it has ever been a problem for me. Grow it in any welldrained soil in full sun or part shade. Chinese lanterns belong to the same family of plants as tomatoes, peppers, chillies and aubergines. The fruit concealed inside their spectacular papery covering has a variety of uses in traditional medicine, but the physalis often served as a garnish for desserts (sometime called ‘Cape gooseberry’) is in fact a distant relation, Physalis peruviana.

LUSCIOUS LATE-FLOWERER

Rudbeckia Black-eyed Susan

Whilst most garden flowers are over by September, some defiant families of plants keep on blooming until they are felled by the first major frosts. Rudbeckia – of which there are several species, including annuals, biennials and perennials – is one such. Its generous, daisy-like flowers, carried on tall wiry stalks, brighten up the garden with a variety of rich colours long after most other border plants have called it a day. Rudbeckias also make excellent, long-lasting cut flowers.

Many varieties of rudbeckia are yellow, but others come with cheerful orange, maroon or multicoloured petals. They perform best in full sun or part shade, in soil that is well drained but never completely dries out.

SUPERB SHRUB

Hydrangea macrophylla Mophead hydrangea With its huge globular blooms, Hydrangea macrophylla makes a great show all summer long. By the beginning of September the flowers are beginning to go over, but don’t be in too much of a hurry to lop them off. The faded blooms have a gentle, understated charm all of their own. Left in place they can continue to add structure and interest to your garden for several months yet. Although most gardening books will tell you to deadhead and prune hydrangeas immediately after flowering, this is entirely optional. I generally hold off deploying the secateurs until winter starts to bite, or even until well into the New Year. As long as the job is done by mid-spring your plants will be none the worse for it. Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

FANTASTIC FOLIAGE

Acer palmatum Japanese maple

Many trees acquire eye-catching tints once the nights start to get seriously cold, but few can match the exquisite foliage of the Japanese maple. Depending on the cultivar – and to some extent on the autumn weather – its deeply lobed leaves can take on a whole range of vivid hues, from glowing yellows through fiery oranges to incandescent reds. Because of their modest size, Japanese maples make ideal trees for small gardens, and can even be planted in large containers. In the wild they grow as a woodland understorey, shaded and sheltered by larger trees, and they’re best grown in similar conditions here. Too much midday sun or exposure to drying winds can cause the leaves to shrivel prematurely. Most acers prefer soil on the acid side of neutral, so if you live in a hard water area try to water them with rainwater rather than tap water.

BRILLIANT BERRIES

Callicarpa bodinieri Beautyberry Hedgerows and gardens are chock full of berries at this time of year, but the glossy, vivid violet berries of Callicarpa bodinieri are in a class of their own. During most of the year the shrub itself is unremarkable – even a little untidy – but the clusters of day-glo fruit that it delivers in autumn make it well worth finding a space for. 22 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

The cultivar to look out for is Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii ‘Profusion’. With most varieties of callicarpa you would need several plants to guarantee a good crop of berries, but ‘Profusion’ is perfectly capable of setting fruit all on its own. Grow callicarpa in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade, preferably in soil that’s not overly alkaline. Prune only where necessary, and hold off until winter draws to a close to do it.

GORGEOUS GRASS

Stipa tenuissima Mexican feather grass Stipa tenuissima is one of the most delicate and graceful grasses you can grow. Its gently swaying leaves make an especially attractive show in the slanting, golden light of an autumn evening. On a frosty morning they look more magical still. Although much of the foliage of Mexican feather grass usually dies in autumn, the muted orangebrown leaves continue to look good all winter long, so wait until spring before you remove them. If winter has been mild, all you’ll need to do is gently comb out the dead leaves by running your hands through each tussock to give new growth more space and light. Stipa tenuissima can be grown in any welldrained soil but appreciates full sun. Divide clumps in spring to increase your stock. PREVIOUS PAGES LEFT Hydrangea macrophylla 'Queen Elizabeth'. RIGHT Physalis alkekengi Chinese lantern. RIGHT LOWER Black-eyed Susan. THIS PAGE LEFT Mexican feather grass. RIGHT Callicarpa bodinieri Beautyberry.

Alternative Flooring Quirky Stair Art

Unit 7 Badger Court, Harmby Road, Leyburn DL8 5BF | 01969 625111 Unit 1-2 Brompton Business Park, Station Road, Brompton on Swale DL10 7SN | 01748 835111 www.hudspethflooring.co.uk | sales@hudspethflooring.co.uk We oï¬&#x20AC;er a free measuring service Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Otterly Amazing Otters are returning to the Dales â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the Yorkshire coast too. Brian Pike reports on how this graceful aquatic hunter has clawed its way back from the brink of extinction

THIS PAGE Otters play-fighting ÂŠKlein & Hubert 24

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ll too often surveys of British wildlife make depressing reading. Every now and then, though, there’s a success story to set against the gloomy tales of decline. The otter’s remarkable revival of fortunes is one of them. By the early 1970s otters had become virtually extinct in England, largely due to the widespread use of organo-chlorine agricultural pesticides. Now, thanks to the phasing out of these chemicals, along with a ban on otter-hunting, they are making a comeback. And nowhere more so than in North Yorkshire. Signs of otters were found at just 4 out of 109 sites surveyed along the Swale, Ure and Ouse in the late 1970s. Those same sites were checked again in the 2009–2010 season. This time 82 of them showed positive evidence of otters. The story for the rivers Nidd and Wharfe is even more dramatic. Otters appeared to be absent from every single one of the 45 sites surveyed in 1977–1979, but by 2009–2010 the furry underwater predators had returned to around three-quarters of them. Surveys of the Esk and nearby coastal streams indicate that otters have resumed their former haunts there too.

Reading the Signs

Although their numbers are gradually climbing, otters are still – and always will be – a rare sight for most of us. They are notoriously shy animals that hunt and travel by night, spending the daylight hours tucked up in riverbank burrows known as ‘holts’. These have several entrances, some above and some below the waterline. Given their secretive habits, you’ll most likely need to rely on indirect evidence to determine whether there are otters in residence on your local waterway. Footprints in riverside mud or sand are an obvious clue; see the ‘Otter or Mink?’ section for some pointers on what to look out for. Otter droppings, known as ‘spraint’, are also very distinctive. Black, crinkly and full of fish bones, these are usually left in a prominent place to mark an otter’s territory. Otters also create characteristic paths through the undergrowth when they take a short cut across a bend in the river. These often have ‘slides’ at one end or the other where the otters slip down the bank into the water.

Otters are highly protective of their personal patch, and an individual’s territory can easily cover 10 or 12 miles of waterway, so there are unlikely to be more than two otters – a male and a female – active along a particular stretch of river at any one time. Unless, of course, they have cubs. Cubs can be born at any time of year, usually in litters of two or three. They start venturing outside the holt with their mother when they are ten weeks old, and will remain with her for a year or more, refining their hunting skills before setting out to establish territories of their own. Otters have an excellent sense of smell, and equally sharp vision, but when it comes to hunting in muddy waters at night they rely heavily on their long, sensitive whiskers to detect vibrations caused by movements of their prey. Despite being strong swimmers, otters will seldom dive underwater in search of food for more than half a minute.

Riverside Rivals Not everyone has welcomed otters back with open arms. There’s no escaping the fact that an otter’s diet consists mostly of fish, so it’s hardly surprising that some commercial fish farmers and recreational anglers have been uneasy at the prospect of otters recolonising their prized waters. Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

OTTER OR MINK? Mink belong to the same family of mammals as otters, but they’re not native to Britain. They were brought here to stock commercial fur farms in the 1920s, and by the late 1950s escaped animals had established breeding populations in the wild. Like otters, mink spend their lives in and around water, and the superficial similarities between the two species has led to a certain amount of head-scratching when it comes to identifying sightings. Here’s how to tell the difference. • SIZE Averaging well over a metre from snout to tail-tip, otters are much larger and burlier than mink, which are slim animals that seldom exceed 65cm in length. • BODY SHAPE Otters have broad, dog-like muzzles and long, muscular tails, whereas mink have pointy noses and relatively short, fluffy tails.

The issue is a complex and controversial one, but as an Environment Agency report in 2010 comments, ultimately “fish must take their chances in the environment like everything else… otters have been part of the freshwater environment since long before man came on the scene.” They also point out that of the ‘top 50 rivers to fish’ listed by Angling Times, 42 had otters present, often at or close to their maximum population density. Clearly nature is capable of striking a sensible balance, so for the otters’ sake let’s hope that conservationists and fishing interests can do the same! For more information about otters in the UK visit ukwildottertrust.org PREVIOUS PAGES LEFT Close-up of otter on alert. RIGHT UPPER Otter lying low amongst vegetation. LOWER A family of otters. THIS PAGE TOP Young otters playing on the riverbank. ABOVE Otter eating fish. ©Klein & Hubert

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• COLOUR Otters are mid-brown with a broad area of pale fur under their chins that runs into a pale underbelly. Mink have dark brown fur with just a splash of white under the chin. • BEHAVIOUR Otters are nocturnal, swim low in the water and feed predominantly on fish and other water dwellers. Mink are active all day long, swim high in the water, and hunt groundnesting birds, rabbits and small rodents – including, unfortunately, our highly endangered water voles, which mink are small enough to chase into their burrows. • FOOTPRINTS Otters leave five-toed, clawed footprints around 9cm long by 6cm wide. Whilst they have webbed feet, the webbing seldom shows in their prints. Mink tracks are roughly 4.5cm x 4.5cm. Both can easily be distinguished from dog or fox prints, which show only four toes.

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swintonestate.com • reservations@swintonestate.com • 01765 680900 • Swinton Estate, Masham, Ripon, HG4 4JH Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

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30 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

GARDEN NOTES Seasonal Sensation Kniphofia

FRUIT TO SUIT

Whether it’s apples, plums or pears, it’s always good to have a fruit tree or two in the garden. And smaller varieties – especially suitable for modest spaces – can be just as productive as big ones. Fruit trees are best planted when they have become dormant, so any time from late autumn onwards – providing the ground isn’t frozen solid – is a good time to do it. Some varieties are better adapted to conditions here in the North than others, so it’s vital to do your research. Braithwaites at Leeming Bar (braithwaitesnursery.co.uk) are fruit-tree specialists, and it’s well worth having a word with their friendly, knowledgeable staff before committing to a purchase.

Freshly Minted

If you enjoy fresh mint – as a tea, a cooking ingredient or a garnish for desserts – why not pot some up to grow indoors over winter? Simply lift and divide a clump and plant the resulting sections in pots, trimming the stems down to a height of 10–15cm. Set your pots on a sunny windowsill, and instead of going dormant your mint plants will carry on producing leaves for several months – and hopefully the whole winter. If you don’t have a sunny windowsill, inexpensive LED grow-lights are now widely available and will give your indoor herbs the balanced spectrum of light they need.

With their tall, narrow, scarlet-and-yellow flower-spikes, it’s easy to see why kniphofias are often called ‘Red-Hot Pokers’. Their strappy leaves are unremarkable but their flowers – which in some varieties stand well over a metre high – provide a burst of vibrant colour from midsummer through until the first frosts. If you prefer a slightly less vivid colour scheme, kniphofias are also available in subtler tones such as muted orange (Kniphofia ‘Orange Popsicle’), pale yellow (Kniphofia ‘Poco Yellow’) and cream (Kniphofia ‘Little Maid’). To browse a fine selection of kniphofias and other late-blooming perennials visit Ravensworth Nurseries (ravensworthnurseries.com) near Richmond.

Topical Tip: When you’re giving your garden its autumn tidy, don’t forget the wildlife! Clear debris from nesting boxes, scrub out bird baths and clean and disinfect your bird feeders ready for the coming winter.

Hot Stuff A compost bin or compost heap is a time-honoured way to turn garden waste and vegetable peelings into a nutritious soil improver. Usually, though, it takes many months to get results. With a hot composting system such as the Green Johanna (widely available online) you can speed up the process considerably. There’s an added benefit too. Thanks to the higher temperatures achieved inside an insulated composter you can safely compost food waste – including meat, fish and dairy – that wouldn’t be suitable for a traditional compost bin. All in all, it’s a great way to reduce the amount of domestic waste going to landfill, and a must for any eco-conscious household. Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

GARDEN NOTES Grill Power

Hosting a barbecue is a great excuse to chill out on a golden autumn afternoon. And if you want to take your alfresco cooking to the next level, you’ll be hard put to find a better way to do it than with a Primo ceramic grill. Primo’s patented two-zone design gives outdoor chefs the precise temperature control you would expect from a gas grill, but without sacrificing that fabulous wood-fire flavour. With the ability to grill and roast simultaneously – and to smoke meats and bake pizzas – it could totally transform your outdoor entertaining. Primo ceramic grills are now available from A Bigger Splash (a-biggersplash. co.uk) in Brompton-on-Swale.

Go buy the book

Since lockdown many of us have spent more time than ever in our gardens, and growing your own fruit and veg has become something of a national obsession. Autumn is the time to reap the results of all that hard work – and also to reflect on how to achieve even better results next year. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, the new and updated edition of RHS Step-by-Step Veg Patch by Lucy Chamberlain (Dorling Kindersley, hardback £16.99) is a treasure trove of helpful advice on growing more than 50 different crops, and an invaluable aid in planning next year’s bumper harvest.

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SNAKE CHARMERS Autumn is the best time to plant garlic, because it needs a spell of winter chill to encourage it to do its best in the coming year. One especially interesting variety that you might like to try is Serpent Garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon). Serpent Garlic gets its name from its extravagantly coiled and twisted stems, technically known as ‘scapes’. These gradually straighten as summer wears on. The scapes are edible – in fact on the Continent they’re regarded as a delicacy. They can be picked in midsummer and used as a milder, and arguably more flavourful, substitute for chives or garlic. Harvest the underground bulbs as normal later in the year. Two crops for the price of one!

PICK OF THE BUNCH

There’s nothing like fresh flowers and foliage for giving your living space – or place of business for that matter – an instant lift. Gorgeous locally grown flowers are now available from Bear Cottage Interiors in Hawes (bearcottageinteriors. com). We particularly love owner Julie’s handtied bunches and posies, with their exuberant colours and clever combination of shapes and textures. They’re an inspiration to cut-flower gardeners, and a godsend to the rest of us ordinary mortals in need of a quick fix of natural beauty. You can see more examples of Julie’s fabulous ‘Flowers from the Farm’ on the Bear Cottage Facebook Page and Instagram stream.

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At Lifetime we offer a bespoke colour service to all of our products. Choose from a Farrow & Ball or Fired Earth colour chart. Or bring us a colour and we will match it. All the benefits of maintenance free uPVC windows and doors while retaining the charm and character of your home. Talk to the experts – we can bring your ideas to life. We offer a no obligation design and quotation service, so contact us today and tell us about your plans – we’ll be delighted to hear from you.

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R Dales ICHM ON D  2020 T H I R| S33 K Life | AUTUMN

Watch ‘em Grow For all your gardening needs Come and browse our plant centre, we have a vast array of home-grown instant colour plants to brighten up your garden and keep your pots looking great. Our fantastic range of autumn-planting bulbs is also available now.

Open Monday to Saturday 8am-4.30pm, Sunday 10am-4pm Ravensworth, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL11 7HA info@ravensworthnurseries.com | Fax: 01325 718953 | Tel: 01325 718370

High quality workmanship from an experienced team at the right price

Established 24 years ♦ All aspects of hard landscaping undertaken T: 01969 640457

♦ M: 07803 735000 ♦ E: frank@stonescapes.com www.stonescapes.com

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

When it’s all about food

Primo Grills are well known by BBQ enthusiasts for their exceptional quality and performance. Virtually any food or recipe can be cooked on a Primo Grill. Mouthwatering juicy burgers, wood-fired pizza, smoke beef to perfection, or even roast a turkey! Bake, grill, roast, barbecue, pan fry, stir fry; the list is endless.

Primo Grills are now in stock at: A Bigger Splash, Unit 6, Brompton Industrial Park, Station Road, Brompton-on-Swale, N. Yorkshire DL10 7SN 01748 812039 www.a-biggersplash.co.uk abiggersplash2@aol.com

We have a fantastic selection of spring bulbs to add glorious drifts of colour to your garden next spring. Orders now being taken for bare-rooted trees, fruit trees, hedging and roses which will be available mid-November. Please call or visit our website for more details. We have been growing the plants for North Yorkshire’s gardens for over 125 years - call in and see what we have for you. Our florist can provide hand-tied designs, bouquets and arrangements for any occasion. 01677 422861 www.braithwaitesnursery.co.uk enquiries@braithwaitesnursery.co.uk

Visit us: we’re in Leeming Bar just beside the A1 W Braithwaite & Sons, Floral Nurseries, Leeming Bar, Northallerton, North Yorkshire DL7 9BG Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

CHEFâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TABLE CRACKING RECIPES FROM LOCAL CHEFS

Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Born in County Durham and raised in North Yorkshire, Shaun Rankin left school at the age of 16 determined to become a chef. Following an apprenticeship at the five-star Mayfair Hotel in London he spent three years at The Black Bull in Moulton. Shaun worked in the USA and Australia before gaining his first Michelin star at the Bohemia restaurant in Jersey in 2005. In 2009 Shaun won BBC2’s Great British Menu with his recipe for treacle tart, a dish that now features on his Sunday lunch menu at Grantley Hall near Ripon, which re-launched as a luxury hotel last year following a multi-million-pound refurbishment.

Why did you want to become a chef ? From the age of ten onwards I used to help Mum out in the kitchen on a Sunday, making apple pies, sausage rolls, Yorkshire puddings and so on. Mum was a great baker – a great all-round cook, in fact – and cooking was something I always found really easy. I couldn’t imagine doing any other job.

What drew you back to North Yorkshire – and Grantley Hall in particular?

When I was young there was nowhere of the calibre of Grantley here in the North East – the closest place to find somewhere equivalent was in London. Nowadays the balance has shifted back northwards. Grantley in particular appealed to me because it represents a significant investment in Yorkshire. It’s a family owned business whose project of creating a luxury environment of the highest quality fitted in perfectly with my own style and philosophy.

What’s the idea behind your restaurant at Grantley?

The ‘Taste of Home’ menu is all about childhood. It takes a very nostalgic approach to food, recreating some of the experiences you might have experienced growing up here in North Yorkshire, like eating bread and dripping, or tasting a home-grown tomato in the greenhouse with your grandad. But given a twist, of course, elevated to a higher level.

Our Sunday Lunch menu has the same kind of nostalgic feel. We serve really good roast beef from a big carving trolley, and we’ve revived classic dishes like lobster and crab cocktail, Dover sole and twicebaked cheese soufflé.

What is your favourite Yorkshire autumn produce? Grouse, along with local venison and game in general. And at this time of year our kitchen garden is at full tilt. We also do a lot of sustainable foraging – of blackberries and whatever else happens to be available.

Which other Yorkshire chefs do you admire? A firm favourite of mine is Andrew Pern of The Star Inn at Harome. Andrew is a great guy, a great character, he really stands out in a crowd. I like to pop across to eat there when I have a day off – which unfortunately isn’t often!

How would you sum up your cooking philosophy? You have to get three things right: combinations, flavours and textures. Attention to detail is crucial.

You’re obviously a perfectionist – do you think you’re difficult to work for? In the past, maybe. Not now though. I’ve mellowed now. Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Treacle Tart with Raspberries and Clotted Cream INGREDIENTS FOR THE PASTRY 260g plain flour 100g icing sugar 30g ground almonds 125g unsalted butter, diced 3 eggs plain flour for dusting 1 tsp milk

FOR THE TREACLE TART FILLING 60g unsalted butter 1 egg 1 egg yolk 3 tbsp double cream 6g salt 450g golden syrup 120g brown breadcrumbs

TO SERVE 250g raspberries ½ lemon, juiced 1 tsp icing sugar black pepper 225g clotted cream

METHOD Start by making the pastry. Put the flour, sugar, almonds and butter in a large bowl. Using your fingertips, mix together into a crumb consistency. Add 2 of the eggs and mix well. Cover and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/fan 160°C/gas 4. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Roll out the pastry to about 2mm thick. Line the tart ring with the pastry, letting it hang over the sides. Cover with oven-proof cling film and fill the tart base with dry rice or baking beans. Bake blind for about 20 minutes or until the case is cooked through and lightly golden. Remove from oven and lift off the rice or baking beans and the cling film. ix the egg and milk in a small bowl. Using a pastry brush, egg wash the M tart well and return to the oven for a further 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C/fan 140°C/gas 3. For the filling, melt the butter in a saucepan until it starts to foam and turn brown, then take off the heat. Pour the butter through a sieve to remove the sediment. Mix the egg, egg yolk, cream and salt in a bowl. In a saucepan, heat the golden syrup gently for a few minutes until hot. Add the brown butter and mix well until it goes cloudy. Then add the cream mixture and the breadcrumbs. Mix well, then pour the mixture into the cooked tart base. Cook in the oven for 25 minutes then reduce the temperature to 140°C/fan 120°C/gas 1 and cook for a further 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, so the top is chewy and the middle is soft and moist with the pastry nice and crunchy. When you are ready to serve your treacle tart, put the raspberries into a bowl and add the lemon juice and icing sugar. Mix well and finish with pepper to taste. Cut the tart into portions, scatter with the dressed raspberries and serve with a scoop of the clotted cream.

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

White Bear Country Inn MASHAM NORTH YORKSHIRE

Autumn at The White Bear The White Bear is a five-star inn situated in the pretty market town of Masham, in the foothills of the Yorkshire Dales. We serve delicious breakfasts, lunches, afternoon teas and dinner, all prepared using the finest local produce. Stay in one of our delightful rooms and experience a real taste of the Dales.

The White Bear Country Inn Wellgarth, Masham, North Yorkshire HG4 4EN 01765 689319 www.whitebearmasham.co.uk sue@whitebearmasham.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Overlooking the brewery town of Masham, The Black Swan provides the perfect setting for that special occasion. GAME FESTIVAL 13-14 November Celebrate the best local game the Dales has to offer. From roast grouse to game pie, there is something for all tastes. CHRISTMAS CRACKERS Enjoy our festive menu celebrating the best of local produce. Special offer for bookings made by 31 October. • Theakston’s and Black Sheep Ales • Private dining room • 14 en-suite rooms

The Black Swan Inn, Fearby, Near Masham HG4 4NF blackswan-masham.co.uk 01765 689477 See web site for more details. Booking essential.

Unique dining experience in a traditional atmosphere Enjoy Roux Scholar Jonathan Harrison’s unique cuisine in the traditional surroundings of the Sandpiper Inn. Modern British food using only the ﬁnest local ingredients, beautifully prepared and presented. Fine wines, real ales and friendly service. Accommodation available.

Market Place, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 5AT sandpiperinn.co.uk 40 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

FOR RESERVATIONS TELEPHONE 01969 622206 HSANDPIPER99@AOL.COM

THE SADDLE ROOM AT TUPGILL ESTATE, LEYBURN

Our award winning stable yard restaurant and bar offers a range of dining experiences, included our vaulted ceiling cellar. With highlights of its past glory including saddle seats, stable booths and feeding buckets. With a fully stocked bar featuring some of Yorkshires finest ales we are open for Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and everything in between. Offering Bar Classics, Light Lunches and Everchanging Seasonal dishes we are the perfect place for a refuel. Grand, honest food cooked to perfection.

We have the perfect accommodation choice to suit even the most discerning of guest. Choose from our 7 newly refurbished, self-catering holiday cottages or our 9, 5-star AA rated guest bedrooms. Our Bell Barn boasts a rustic aesthetic, exposed stone and lots of natural daylight – it's a real blank canvas just waiting to be dressed to match a chosen wedding colour scheme. The Bell Barn can cater for 150 guests seated, or 200 maximum for an evening reception.

Tel: 01969 640 596 www.thesaddleroom.co.uk The Saddle Room Restaurant, Tupgill Park, Coverdale, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 4TJ

Stone House Hotel EAT

STAY

CELEBRATE

Open daily for: Coffee & Fresh Baking • Delicious Lunches • Sumptuous Dinners • Relaxing Breaks

Sedbusk, near Hawes, Wensleydale DL8 3PT • 01969 667571 www.stonehousehotel.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

THE DISCERNING

DINER

Claudia Blake samples a luxury takeaway from Vennellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in Masham 42

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

imes have been tough for local restaurateurs, but they’re bouncing back. And none more so than Jon and Laura Vennell of Vennell’s Restaurant in Masham. The pair have been at the helm of the highly acclaimed eatery for over 15 years now. Forced to close their doors by Covid-19, they decided to offer takeaways. Not just any takeaways, though, but luxurious ‘fine dine at home’ menus that allow chef Jon to showcase his skills – and local devotees of the restaurant to recreate the Vennell’s experience at their own dinner tables. Vennell’s has now reopened to sit-in diners on Fridays and Saturdays – with suitable precautions in place, of course – but continues to offer takeaways for customers who are self-shielding or, for whatever reason, don’t want to eat out.

TAKE THAT

So how does it work? To start with you need to sign up to the takeaway mailing list on the Vennell’s website. Jon’s menu changes every week, and once you’re on the list he’ll email you every Tuesday with his selection of dishes for the next few days. Each week’s Friday and Saturday takeaway and dine-in menus are identical. There’s a single takeaway-only dish every Wednesday. You can book your collection slot, or table, by return email. You’ll need a will of iron to resist the goodies on offer. As we go to press, the coming weekend’s takeaway menu includes rillette of mackerel with pickled cucumber carpaccio, roast grouse with fondant potato, red cabbage, bread sauce and blackberry jus, and mulled wine pear trifle with toasted almonds. Sounds mouthwatering doesn’t it? But how does luxury takeaway dining pan out in practice? Well, collection was a breeze. Plenty of parking in Masham’s market square, a stone’s throw from Vennell’s in Silver Street. Simply pitch up at the door at the allotted time and your food is brought out with a smile – at least we assume there was a smile behind Laura’s face mask.

The various paper carriers were all clearly labelled, and the neatly packaged contents coped surprisingly well with the long, twisty drive home. They also stayed warm enough for us not to feel the need to reheat them – though we did pop the (chilled) dessert into the fridge. The menu on the week in question was a fourcourser, opening with pan-fried Dover sole with parsley, lemon and caper butter. Cooked on the bone, the fish was delicate and melting – still texture-perfect even after nearly an hour’s trip to the table. It was nicely balanced by the sharp glints of lemon and caper in the immaculately seasoned butter, which conjured up visions of the Mediterranean holiday many of us won’t get this year. A cracking start to an evening’s indulgent eating.

WELLINGTON BEAUTS

Next up were individual beef Wellingtons with gratin potato, buttered vegetables and what the menu described as a ‘rich jus’. And it was indeed remarkably rich – positively the Jeff Bezos or Bill Gates of gravies – glossy, velvety and packed with more flavour than some chefs send out of their kitchens in a lifetime. Even without the benefit of the sumptuous jus, the Wellingtons would have been stellar achievements. The steak, still with a healthy pink tint in the middle, was as meltingly soft as the sole had been. It was wrapped in a smoulderingly flavoursome liver pâté, and the pastry holding the whole bundle together was crisp and almost impossibly thin. This was meat cookery of the highest order; no wonder Vennell’s has received so many awards and accolades.

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Dessert was vanilla and Grand Marnier panna cotta, each portion with its own moat of orange sauce. The ethereal panna cotta was elegantly wobbly, super-creamy, and not over-sweet. The sauce combined zippy, zesty citrus shavings with a sweet, boozy alcohol-rich underpinning. The kind of dessert that slips down like a dream, even when you think you’re too full to put away another spoonful. Three courses down, and all flawless – not something I often get the chance to report. Strangely enough, it was the fourth and final course, the cheese course, that slightly missed the mark. This centred on Stonebeck, a new, raw-milk Wensleydale cheese that combines the glowing richness of mature Cheddar with a texture at the softer end of the hard cheese spectrum. It was served with fresh grapes, walnut bread and homemade chutney. The walnut bread was lovely; I could have eaten it all day long. Unfortunately, though, the chutney just wasn’t assertive enough to match a cheese with the gravitas of Stonebeck. It felt sweet and inconsequential next to something that was crying out for a blast of something eye-wateringly sharp. Other than that, this was a meal of simply breathtaking quality, and it was a privilege to be able to carry it away to savour in the privacy of our own home. Dales restaurants are busy redefining themselves, and Vennell’s has most definitely redefined the takeaway. For more information about Vennell’s visit vennellsrestaurant.co.uk or call 01765 689000.

WHAT TO EXPECT Delicious, detailed and technically stunning cooking, miraculously rendered portable.

PRACTICALITY Ordering and collecting your beautifully packaged booty couldn’t be simpler.

PRESENTATION Dust off your finest crocks and cutlery – a Vennell’s takeaway richly deserves them.

THE BOTTOM LINE Our four-course carry-out cost us £40 per head.

PLANET POSITIVE Every shred of packaging is recyclable. Even the ‘plastic’ pots are compostable.

ADD ON Arrive a few minutes early and take a stroll round Masham’s quaint back streets. It’s a lovely town.

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

AN EXQUISITE

fine dining

EXPERIENCE

Ripon, North Yorkshire HG4 3ET | +44(0) 1765 620070 | hello@grantleyhall.co.uk www.grantleyhall.co.uk

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

A Family Run Country Inn serving Proper Yorkshire Food D I NE R E L AX STAY Grassington Road, Cracoe, North Yorkshire, BD23 6LA devonshirearmsinncracoe.co.uk T: 01756 699191

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

ine dine in

Sublime meals to collect Wednesday and Friday evenings

Vennells Restaurant 7 Silver Street, Masham HG4 4DX Tel: 01765 689000 www.vennellsrestaurant.co.uk

Takeaways... CLICK & COLLECT OR CALL

We are dog friendly in the bedrooms & bar area We will be open throughout the festive season - call 01325 718303

F OX H A L L I N N . C O. U K Open from breakfast at 7:00am until late every day

T: 01325 718303 E: contact@foxhallinn.co.uk

FOX HALL INN EAST LAYTON RICHMOND NORTH YORKSHIRE DL11 7PW @foxhallinn

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Farmers & Butchers

Food Hall

Tearoom

Gift Hall & Country Clothing

A â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; re a l â&#x20AC;&#x2122; f a r m s h o p o f f e r i n g a s h o p f l o o r t o o u r wo r k i n g l i v e s t o c k f a r m All our beef, pork and lamb is and in Yorkshire

born, reared

raised

All areas of our food hall, gift hall and tearoom are open

Our new extension opens October

Further retail area to house our home produced foods, fine foods & drink, giftware & clothing plus much more.

Visit us end of October onwards for our largest Christmas Shop yet!

01325 718860

www.mainsgillfarm.co.uk

Sunday 9am-5pm Monday-Friday 9am-5pm Saturday 8:30am-5pm

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

DL11 7PN

4 miles west of Scotch Corner

FOOD NOTES

GAME ON

Autumn means plentiful supplies of fresh local game – and Yorkshire game is widely acknowledged as the world’s finest! If you’re not entirely confident about cooking with game, or if you’re an experienced chef keen to hone your skills, the Swinton Estate Cookery School is running a series of full-day courses to help you master the art. You’ll learn how to make the most of various different kinds of game at a handson workshop in the Cookery School’s charming country kitchen, with all ingredients and equipment provided. Forthcoming dates for Swinton’s Yorkshire Game courses include 17 October and 21 November. For full details visit swintonestate.com

BETTER WITH BUTTER

A dab of richly flavoured butter can give a lip-smacking lift to a huge range of dishes, from steak, lamb and chicken to green vegetables, jacket potatoes and pasta. The highly acclaimed Sublime range of flavoured butters is now available at Farmison in Ripon, and they’re an easy way to add an extra dimension to the fine meats on sale at the multiple-award-winning online butcher. Truffle, Parmesan & Black Pepper butter makes a great finish for steak, for example, and Garlic, Rosemary & Mint works wonderfully with lamb. Other feisty flavours include Bearnaise, Chimichurri, Himalayan Salt and Garlic & Herb. Browse the Sublime range at farmison.com

SWAP YOUR CROP

CATERING COMEBACK

Lockdown has been tough for Dales hospitality businesses, but at last things are edging back to normal. Middleham-based caterer Fairhursts is typical of the resilient local enterprises determined to bounce back from the crisis. Fairhursts Café at Berry’s Farm Shop is now open daily for breakfasts, lunches and teas, with seasonal, locally sourced food cooked to order and a range of mouthwatering cakes and scones. Meanwhile Fairhursts’ bistro-style ready meals – portioned for one or two and delivered free within a 10mile radius – are proving hugely popular, and a godsend for locals who are self-isolating. For full details or to order visit fairhursts.co.uk

Do you have a tree groaning with so many apples you don’t know what to do with them? Well here’s the solution to your problem: exchange them for crisp, refreshing, handcrafted Yorkshire cider! Thornborough Cider near Bedale is offering a 750ml bottle of this year’s brew for every 20kg of locally grown apples you contribute. All you need to do is drop them off at White House in Thornborough (DL8 2RE) with a note of your name and address; they’ll be back in touch next year with your share of the cider. Find out more about Thornborough Cider and their award-winning tipple at thornboroughcider.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

F O O D

N O T E S

MILKING IT

MAINSGILL MAKEOVER

As we go to press, Mainsgill Farm Shop near Richmond (mainsgillfarm.co.uk) is putting the finishing touches to a bold new construction project. Due to be revealed in October, the new-look Mainsgill incorporates a larger Food Hall, a much expanded giftware department, bigger kitchens and an additional, dog-friendly, eating area. Mainsgill has grown steadily since the Henshaw family opened their doors to the public in 2001, and the new works will take the floor area to a massive 18,000 square feet. “We’ve had sleepless nights, but we’re very excited about this new development,” says Maria Henshaw. “Christmas will be amazing this year, with masses of new products and a much more spacious, comfy and convenient shopping experience.”

POT LUCK

Do you have a small garden – or maybe no garden at all, just a yard, balcony or window box? That doesn’t mean you can’t grow your own scrumptious fruit and veg! If you need advice and inspiration to get you started with container gardening you’ll find plenty in Aaron Bertelsen’s Grow Fruit & Vegetables in Pots (Phaidon, hardback, £24.95), a lavishly illustrated guide written by Great Dixter’s vegetable gardener and cook. As well as tips on cultivating everything from herbs, salad leaves and root vegetables to pot-friendly fruit trees, the book includes more than fifty recipes to help you make the most of your containerised crops. 50 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Doorstep deliveries of bottled milk may be a thing of the past, but here’s a thoroughly modern, eco-conscious alternative: fresh local milk from an in-store vending machine. The innovative idea has been pioneered by Campbells of Leyburn (campbellsofleyburn.co.uk) and The Home Farmer, a forward-thinking Aysgarth-based farm (thehomefarmer.co.uk). Here’s how it works. Simply pop into Campbells, buy a reusable glass bottle – it’s yours to keep for life – take it to the state-of-the-art machine and have it filled with delicious fresh milk. Dales milk on demand and no wasteful packaging: the perfect example of local businesses thinking outside the box!.

JELLY ADDICTS

A few years ago traditional handmade jellies seemed all but forgotten, but now they’re back with a vengeance – and Briscoe’s Jellies of York is leading the way. Whether you’re serving sweet or savoury, a dollop of one of their beautifully presented artisan creations will transform a simple meal into something special. Briscoe’s Simply Cranberry jelly works perfectly with brie, chicken or turkey, and their Furious Chilli can add zing to pretty much any meat or fish dish. Striking a softer note, Very Very Vanilla will enhance porridge, pancakes and croissants, as will Sinful Cinnamon or Elegant Elderflower. To find out more about Briscoe’s Jellies visit briscoesjellies. co.uk

Serving breakfast, lunch, daily specials and a range of freshly made scones and cakes! We also offer a home made ready meal delivery service with free delivery within our local area! Open Tues-Sun 9:30am - 3:00pm Tea Room · Farm Shop • Gifts • Hampers · Loyalty Cards • Gift Vouchers

01969 624668 • hello@fairhursts.co.uk • www.fairhursts.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

Pork Life

Happy pigs, mouthwatering meat, tidy woodland â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the winning combination behind a new Masham-based business 52 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

here’s nothing new about farmers letting their pigs loose in local woods, copses and spinneys. This was a regular part of animal husbandry in pre-industrial times, especially in autumn when the animals could fatten themselves up by feasting on acorns or beechmast. But now a local couple, Edward and Lexi Staveley of Grewelthorpe, near Masham, have put a modern twist on this age-old traditional practice. Their business, Yorkshire Woodland Pork, involves giving their herd of pigs the opportunity to live a natural, free-roaming life whilst at the same time providing a useful service for local landowners.

CLEAR THINKING Like all good business ideas, this one originates from a mixture of longstanding enthusiasm and sudden insight. Edward is a pig-farmer’s son, and always wanted to follow his father into the family business. Unfortunately, though, his father died before this was possible, and Edward’s dream seemed to have evaporated. Fast forward a few years, and Edward, now a qualified tree surgeon, often found himself being asked to go into woodlands to clear away excess undergrowth – a tedious and time-consuming task.

The penny dropped when he realised that a herd of pigs could get the job done far more cost-effectively, and also enable him to produce ethically reared, delicious free-range pork. As luck would have it, Edward’s wife Lexi has the perfect skill-set to complement his pig-farming expertise. As a veterinary nurse she’s in an ideal position to keep a watchful eye on the herd’s wellbeing and ensure that they stay in tip-top health. At first the couple’s pork went to family and friends, but they received such positive feedback that they decided to expand operations. “Everyone says what a distinctive flavour our pork has,” explains Lexi. “Our pigs live on a diet of natural foods, so it’s no surprise that the meat itself tastes more natural. Also, because they are outdoor breeds and live outside they put on more fat to keep warm, and the fat is where the flavour is. And as well as being more flavoursome, people tell us our pork is much more tender and succulent than supermarket meat.” The Yorkshire Woodland Pork herd – which, including piglets, now numbers more than 200 animals, divided across two locations – includes Mangalitsas, Iron Age pigs, Berkshires, Tamworths and a large Duroc boar called Jerry. All of them have their own personalities, says Lexi. Despite their size and strength, the Iron Age pigs are ‘big softies’ who love being scratched behind the ears, and the Mangalitsas, a long-haired Hungarian breed, are endearingly naughty. Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

P I G GY P R AC T I C A L I T I E S When Edward and Lexi introduce their pigs to a new tract of woodland they start off by using electric fencing to confine the animals to a fairly small area, at the same time establishing a regular routine by delivering them a tasty treat at breakfast time. Once the pigs have got into the habit of turning up for a breakfast ‘roll call’ – during which they can be counted and checked for health issues – they are gradually allowed to forage further afield. Whilst they won’t damage mature trees, pigs will root up or consume most of the obstructive or nuisance plants that a landowner might want to be rid of, including nettles, brambles, bracken and small saplings. Lexi and Stella, the couple’s two-year-old daughter, take great delight in watching the pigs – and especially the piglets – going about their daily lives in a natural environment. “Some of them wander round together like best friends on the High Street, some of them squabble like children, and the really naughty ones follow you around pestering you for food. It’s endlessly fascinating, and that’s what makes the job so rewarding - even when you have to search a wood in the pouring rain to find a pig that hasn’t come for breakfast.” 54

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

So what does the future hold for Yorkshire Woodland Pork? Edward and Lexi currently sell their pork in traditional cuts – shoulder, leg, belly, chops and so on – but they intend to widen their range to include their own bacon and sausages. They’ve also recently launched Yorkshire Woodland Pork taster boxes for delivery to customers who want to explore a selection of their produce, or who simply can’t decide what to order! By the way, Edward and Lexi are always on the lookout for new places to pasture their pigs, so if you’re a landowner with some slightly scruffy woodland that would benefit from a little attention from a collection of large, friendly pigs, they’ll be delighted to hear from you. You can find out more about Yorkshire Woodland Pork at ywpork.co.uk, or on their Facebook page, @ywpork. Orders can be placed by emailing ywpork@outlook.com or calling 07545 271156.

Campbell’s of Leyburn Your family run Fine Food and Wine Emporium

Serving the Dales in every way we can!

Our famous store on Leyburn Market Place has evolved over 150 years and 5 generations of Campbell’s to offer its own distinctive style of supermarket shopping even in these challenging times!

Best Independent Rural Retailer

We offer stress free access to a vast range of different products and mouth-watering surprises such as: • A range of own-label and every day groceries • Innovative products from start-ups and artisans • Succulent local meat from ‘Dales’ farmers • National and international delicacies on a ﬁrst-class delicatessen counter

• An extensive choice of artisan and mainstream cheeses from around the world • An unrivalled and even more affordable selection of world-wide wines and spirits • Beer and spirits from craft breweries and distillers • See our new fresh milk vending machine! ……….and there is so much more in store.

Call in for a unique shopping experience, you may be surprised and even more so today!

4 Commercial Square, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 5BP Tel: 01969 622169 www.campbellsoﬂeyburn.co.uk Dales Life richard@campbellsoﬂeyburn.co.uk

| AUTUMN 2020 |

THE FANTA STIC FIVE We know some of you haven’t had the chance to read our digital-only Summer issue, and we don’t want anyone to miss out. So we’ve decided to extend the closing date for our five fabulous Yorkshire-themed prize giveaways! They’re free to enter and you can find the answers to the questions in the magazine.

WIN A ONE-NIGHT DINNER, BED AND BREAKFAST STAY FOR TWO AT GLORIOUS GRANTLEY HALL

Following a multi-million-pound refurbishment, 18th century Grantley Hall, near Ripon, reopened last year as a luxury country house hotel. Grantley boasts 47 exquisite bedrooms, four indulgent restaurants and three stunning bars - plus a magnificent spa, a state-of-the-art gym and picture-perfect gardens. For a chance to win a one-night stay at Grantley Hall, simply tell us which Michelin-starred Chef runs a fine dining restaurant named after himself at Grantley Hall. To enter visit daleslife.com/win. One entry per person, terms and conditions apply, please see below.

WIN LUNCH FOR FOUR AT THE SWINTON ESTATE'S SUPER-STYLISH TERRACE RESTAURANT

With its spacious modern interior, delightful outdoor dining area and tranquil garden setting – not to mention the mouthwatering, immaculately presented seasonal menus based around produce from the Swinton Estate's colourful four-acre walled garden – the Terrace Restaurant is one of the highlights of the North Yorkshire dining scene. For a chance to win lunch for four at The Terrace, simply tell us where the Swinton Estate is located. To enter visit daleslife. com/win. One entry per person, terms and conditions apply, please see below. 56 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

WIN A ONE-NIGHT DINNER, BED AND BREAKFAST STAY FOR TWO AT THE STONE HOUSE HOTEL, HAWES

The Stone House is a classic country house set on the sunny side of Wensleydale, a short walk across the fields from the bustling market town of Hawes. With its fine food, friendly atmosphere, panoramic views and lush gardens it’s the perfect setting for a revitalising break in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. For a chance to win a one-night stay at The Stone House Hotel, simply tell us in which hamlet near Hawes you can find The Stone House Hotel. To enter visit daleslife. com/win. One entry per person, terms and conditions apply, please see below.

WIN A COPY OF ALAN TITCHMARSH’S NEW BOOK, MARIGOLDS, MYRTLE AND MOLES

WIN A TAPLIN & MAGEEAN CRAFT GIN GIFT PACK

Taplin & Mageean are two passionate artisan distillers who produce a range of four ultra-premium, small-batch gins in an old railway shed in Leyburn: the juniper-heavy Signature Edition, Spiced Orange with its hints of fig, cranberry and cinnamon, super-summery Peach & Basil and the headily fragrant Elderflower Orchard. For a chance to win a Taplin & Mageean gift pack, simply tell us where to find the Taplin & Mageean distillery. To enter visit daleslife.com/win. One entry per person, terms and conditions apply, please see below.

MAIN TERMS AND CONDITIONS Applicable to Grantley Hall, Swinton Park and Stone House Hotel prizes Prizes offered are subject to availability at time of booking, and must be taken before 31 March 2021. Prize bookings can be made Monday to Thursday only. Bank Holidays and dates from 1 December 2020 to 3 January 2021 inclusive are excluded. All extras are to be paid for on departure.

From touching poems on the peony, the snowdrop and the sweet pea to hilarious horticultural verse, Marigolds, Myrtle and Moles: A Gardener's Bedside Book (Hodder & Stoughton, hardback) is Alan Titchmarsh’s heartfelt and entertaining celebration of the garden. We have three copies of this charming little book waiting to be won. For a chance to win Marigolds, Myrtle and Moles, simply tell us which variety of garlic is featured in our Garden Notes pages in this issue. To enter visit daleslife.com/win. One entry per person, terms and conditions apply, please see below.

Applicable to all prizes One entry per person per competition only. The closing date for entries is 12 October 2020. To enter you must accept our terms and conditions as detailed in the link below, and you must be a resident of the United Kingdom aged 18 or over. Winners will be notified in early November. For a complete list of terms and conditions visit www.daleslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/ competition-terms.pdf  Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

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Monday to Saturday 10am to 4.30pm Find us in the centre of Richmond’s market place Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

for the love of

APPLES

Some of the finest apples are grown in British orchards and now is the time to enjoy them CARAMEL APPLE CRISP Adding polenta or cornmeal to this crisp topping gives it a lovely crunch

60 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

comfort

COURSE

APPLE TART The combination of apples and vanilla is absolutely divine

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

PRALINE APPLE STRUDEL Praline powder and crispy flaky filo pastry lifts this strudel well above the average

62 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

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CARAMEL APPLE CRISP A cheat’s way of making caramel is to melt caramels in butter, as this takes away all the worry of caramelising sugar. Adding polenta or cornmeal to this crisp topping gives it a lovely crunch. It looks very homely baked in a heavy cast-iron pan but an ordinary ovenproof dish is fine too. METHOD Preheat the oven to 190°C/fan 170°C/gas 5. Core and thickly slice the apples and toss them with the lemon juice. Melt the butter in a heavy cast-iron skillet, then add the crushed hard caramel sweets. Stir until melted, add the apples and cinnamon and toss well to coat in the buttery caramel. Set aside. To make the oat crisp topping, put the polenta, oats and sugar in a bowl and mix well. Stir in the melted butter and work through the mixture with your fingertips until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs.

SERVES 6 6 tart eating apples, such as Cox’s or Granny Smith, peeled, cored and diced freshly squeezed juice of 1⁄2 a lemon 50g unsalted butter 100g hard caramel sweets, crushed or chopped a pinch of ground cinnamon chilled crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream, to serve FOR THE OAT CRISP TOPPING 85g fine polenta 85g rolled oats (not instant) 80g unsalted butter, melted 13g demerara sugar a cast-iron skillet or heavy frying pan

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Lightly sprinkle the topping mixture evenly over the surface of the apples, mounding it up a little towards the centre. Bake in the preheated oven for 40 minutes, until browned and crisp. Serve warm with crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream.

APPLE TART Apple tart is a classic but this recipe represents a slight departure. The combination of apples and vanilla is absolutely divine so a layer of vanillascented apple purée has been added. METHOD Roll out the pastry dough on a floured work surface to a circle slightly larger than the prepared tart tin. Transfer the dough to the tin. To trim the edges, roll a rolling pin over the top, using the edge of the tin as a cutting surface and let the excess pastry fall away. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, until firm. To bake blind, preheat the oven to 200°C°C/fan 180°C/gas 6. Prick the pastry base all over, line with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then remove the paper and beans and bake for a further 10–15 minutes,

SERVES 6–8 1 quantity sweet pastry dough, at room temperature 3 mild eating apples, such as Golden Delicious, peeled, cored and sliced 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted 1 tablespoon sugar

until golden. Let cool before filling. To make the apple and vanilla purée, put the apples, vanilla pod, sugar and butter in a saucepan with 3–4 tablespoons water. Cook gently, stirring often, for about 10–15 minutes until soft (adding more water if necessary). Remove the vanilla pod, use the tip of a small sharp knife to scrape the vanilla seeds directly into the mixture, then discard the pod. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and purée until smooth.

chilled single cream, to serve

Preheat the oven to 190°C/fan 170°C/gas 5. Spread the purée

FOR THE APPLE AND VANILLA PURÉE

evenly in the pastry case. Arrange the apple slices in a neat circle

3 apples (any variety), peeled, cored and diced

create an inner circle, trimming the slices slightly so that they fit,

1 vanilla pod, split lengthways

melted butter and sprinkle over the sugar.

2–4 tablespoons caster sugar, to taste 2 teaspoons unsalted butter

around the edge; they should be slightly overlapping. Repeat to going in the opposite direction from the outer circle. Brush with

Bake in the preheated oven for 25–35 minutes, until the apples are just browned and tender. Serve warm with cream.

a loose-based tart tin, 27cm diameter, buttered and lightly floured

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

PRALINE APPLE STRUDEL Praline powder is a great ‘secret’ ingredient. It’s a cinch to prepare and makes a great addition to many desserts. Here it teams up with crispy flaky filo pastry to lift what would be an ordinary strudel well above the average. METHOD To make the praline, combine the pecans and sugar in a non-stick heavy-based frying pan and cook over medium/high heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar hardens and coats the nuts. Transfer to a plate to cool, then process in a coffee grinder or small food processor until ground to a coarse powder. Set aside. In a large saucepan, combine the apples, dried fruit, brown sugar, cinnamon and 1 tablespoon butter. Cook over medium heat for about 15 minutes, until the apples are soft and the juices have evaporated. Remove from the heat and let cool.

SERVES 6–8

Preheat the oven to 190°C/fan 170°C/gas 5.

450g tart eating apples, such as Cox’s or Braeburn, peeled, cored and chopped

Put 2 sheets of filo on the prepared baking tray and brush with some

75g mixed dried fruit, such as sultanas, cranberries or sour cherries

melted butter. Sprinkle with a little praline. Top with 2 more sheets of filo and repeat. Top with 2 more sheets of filo. Spread the apple mixture in an even layer over the top sheet of filo. Sprinkle with more praline mixture, then carefully roll up from a long end, as you would

100g light brown sugar

a Swiss roll. Use the baking parchment to help you roll, if necessary.

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Make sure the strudel is sitting seam-side down. Brush with a little

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

more melted butter, sprinkle with any remaining praline and bake in

6 sheets filo pastry, thawed if frozen

the preheated oven for 25–35 minutes, until crisp and golden.

50g unsalted butter, melted

Let cool slightly before dusting with icing sugar. Serve warm with

icing sugar, to dust

whipped cream or crème fraîche.

whipped cream or crème fraîche, to serve FOR THE PRALINE 75g pecan halves 40g caster sugar

Recipes are taken from Cinnamon, Spice & Warm Apple Pie published by Ryland

a baking tray lined with baking parchment

66 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Peters & Small (£9.99), photography © Ryland Peters & Small.

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JOULES, WHITE STUFF, SEASALT, GREAT PLAINS, NOMADS & ROBELL Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

EASY

entertaining Skye McAlpine shares her love for food and entertaining with these simple recipes from her new book, A Table for Friends 68 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

MOZZARELLA WITH CELERY, OLIVES & PINE NUTS Celery works particularly well with the salty black olives

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

APHRODITEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ROAST CHICKEN This recipe is, to my mind, truly food of the gods

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE, CHESTNUT & ROSEMARY CAKE The ideal balance of velvety chestnut and rich, fudgey chocolate

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

MOZZARELLA WITH CELERY, OLIVES & PINE NUTS You can pair mozzarella successfully with most things, though I find that celery, with its distinctive mineral flavour, works particularly well with the salty black olives here, while the pine nuts add an unexpectedly creamy note. The success of this dish depends upon the cheese. Buffalo mozzarella, if you can get your hands on it, is my favourite; it’s lighter and a little tangier than mozzarella made from cow’s milk. One of the joys of this dish is that the mozzarella can be sliced a little in advance and left on its serving dish for a couple of hours, though of course the longer it sits, the less fresh it will taste. METHOD Finely chop the olives, anchovies and pine nuts together. Spoon them into a bowl, pour over the olive oil, give everything a good stir and set aside. Thickly slice the celery. Slice the mozzarella thickly, roughly 1cm thick, and arrange on a serving dish. Sprinkle the chopped celery over the cheese, then spoon over the olive mixture with all of its flavoured oil. Set aside – ideally in the fridge, or if fridge space is at a premium, somewhere cool – for 20–30 minutes before serving, so the cheese becomes imbued with the flavour of the oil.

SERVES 6–8 12 black olives, pitted 6–8 anchovies 25g pine nuts 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1–2 celery sticks 6 mozzarella cheeses, ideally buffalo HANDS ON TIME 15 MINUTES HANDS OFF TIME 20–30 MINUTES RESTING

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Bring the cheese to room temperature before serving.

APHRODITE’S ROAST CHICKEN This recipe comes from my mother’s friend, Aphrodite, and is to my mind (smallest of puns intended) truly food of the gods. Its charm lies in its simplicity: the bird roasts on a bed of very finely sliced potatoes, which crisp to golden around the edges of the tin, while those directly under the chicken are soft and deliciously imbued with the rich cooking juices. The trick is to make sure that you get a little bit of both kinds of potato on your plate. You can happily prepare this a few hours before you’re ready to roast the chicken, cover and store in the fridge. Just don’t slice the potatoes more than four hours or so ahead, as they may brown or curl. METHOD Heat the oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/gas 6. Finely slice the potatoes into rounds 3–5mm thick, using a mandolin if you have one. Arrange in a single layer over the bottom of a large roasting dish, overlapping them. I do this in a round 32cm tarte Tatin dish, but whatever you have to hand will do. Drizzle with 1 tbsp of the olive oil and season generously. Set the chicken in the dish, nestled over the potatoes. Prick the lemon all over with a fork and stuff it into the cavity along with half the rosemary. Drizzle the remaining oil over the chicken, then rub

SERVES 4 4 potatoes 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 small chicken, about 1.4kg, preferably organic

it into the skin with a very generous dash of salt. Lightly crush the garlic cloves (unpeeled) and scatter them over the potatoes, along with what is left of the rosemary. Now set the roasting dish in the oven and cook for 60–70 minutes, until the skin is crisp and the juices run clear when you stick a

1 lemon

knife into the thickest part of the bird (between the leg and the

a large bunch of rosemary

body). Allow to rest for 10 minutes before carving, then eat with

2 garlic cloves

the potatoes.

sea salt flakes freshly ground black pepper HANDS ON TIME 10–15 MINUTES

SERVE WITH... The magic of this dish is that it’s nearly a one-pot wonder. All you really need to add is a salad.

HANDS OFF TIME 1 HOUR 10 MINUTES COOKING 10 MINUTES RESTING

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE, CHESTNUT & ROSEMARY CAKE A few years ago, I made this for a bake sale, and found myself swamped with requests for the recipe, which is adapted from the old Venetian cookbook, A Tola Co i Nostri Veci by Mariù Salvatori. Chocolate cake is often dry and rather disappointing to eat. This, however, is the ideal balance of velvety chestnut and rich, fudgey chocolate. The rosemary is entirely optional, but gives it a soft grown-up-ness. I use the cans of sweetened chestnut purée here, for ease and convenience. An import from France. If you can’t find it easily, feel free to use the unsweetened variety readily available in British supermarkets: use 400g, whisking it lightly with 100g icing sugar, until smooth, before you begin. METHOD Heat the oven to 180°C/fan 160°C/gas 4. Butter a 20cm round cake tin and line with baking parchment. Pour the chestnut purée into a large mixing bowl. Separate the eggs and lightly beat the yolks with a fork, then add them to the purée. Pour in the ground almonds, add the cocoa and mix well. Roughly chop the rosemary leaves and add them to the batter, then stir until well combined. In a second bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff, then fold into the chocolate mix. Pour into the tin and sprinkle on a few rosemary

SERVES 8–10 salted butter, for the tin

sprigs. Bake for 40–45 minutes until a skewer comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin, then turn out. The cake will keep nicely for

500g sweetened chestnut purée

2–3 days.

4 eggs

Dust with icing sugar before serving.

75g ground almonds 40g cocoa powder

SERVE WITH...

leaves from 4 rosemary sprigs, plus extra sprigs for the top

Because of the chestnut (albeit canned), this feels like a cold

icing sugar, to dust

moreover, because it’s a cake, it will make up for an otherwise

HANDS ON TIME 10 MINUTES

simple meal.

weather pudding and it works well with wintry, autumnal flavours;

HANDS OFF TIME 45 MINUTES BAKING 2 HOURS COOLING Recipes are taken from A Table for Friends: The Art of Cooking for Two or Twenty by Skye McAlpine with photography © Skye McAlpine. Hardcover published by Bloomsbury, RRP £26.

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Free range woodland reared pork Our rare breed pigs are reared in Yorkshire woodlands and are free to roam and forage, living as nature intended, as part of the woodland management process. The result is pork that is naturally delicious. A return to pork that tastes as it should. Ed and Lexi Staveley ywpork.co.uk 07545 271156 and 01765 658877 ywpork@outlook.com Follow us on Instagram: yorkshire_woodland_pork

MAKERS OF BESPOKE KITCHENS AND BEDROOM FURNITURE 01609 775383 deansburykitchens.co.uk info@deansburykitchens.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

taste of the

SEASON Seasonal food is fresher, tastier and more nutritious. These easy recipes showcase ingredients at the height of their flavour

CRAB GNUDI WITH BUTTER-BAKED CHERRY TOMATOES & TARRAGON Dumplings by any other name, gnudi are sensational

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

DUCK SOURS Tart, fruity flavours work beautifully alongside duck

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

BLACKBERRY & BAY BROWNIES MADE WITH RYE More than just a pretty picture, these are flavours that flatter one another very well

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Visit RHS Harlow Carr for beautiful autumn colour and endless inspiration. 1.5 miles from Harrogate, North Yorkshire. RHS Registered Charity No. 222879/SC038262

Pre-book at rhs.org.uk/bookharlowcarr Members go free Your visit supports our work as a charity

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CRAB GNUDI WITH BUTTER-BAKED CHERRY TOMATOES & TARRAGON Dumplings by any other name, gnudi are sensational – featherlight and only just holding their form. Start this the day before you want to serve. Two days is better: the gnudi sit, and wait, and wait some more, under a duvet of semolina, gently leaching out moisture, crystallising, creating a very, very tender shell for the ricotta and more. I’ve added brown crab meat, keeping the white meat to warm through and serve. Butter, lots of it, to cook the tomatoes, makes for a sauce so sublime the gnudi will be well at home. METHOD Spread half the semolina (cream of wheat) in a baking dish big enough to hold 16 walnut-size gnudi, but small enough to fit in your fridge. In a bowl, mix the ricotta with the brown crab meat, egg yolk, flour and parmesan or pecorino. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Use your hands to roll the mixture into 16 walnut-size balls and transfer these to the baking dish. Gently roll the gnudi in the semolina to completely coat each ball. Refrigerate, with the gnudi submerged in the rest of the semolina flour and the dish

SERVES 2 AS A RICH MAIN, OR 4 AS AN APPETISER

uncovered, overnight. To cook, bring a large saucepan of well-salted water to a boil.

1350g coarse semolina flour

Melt the butter in a wide pan over a moderate heat and add the

300g ricotta cheese, strained

cherry tomatoes. Cook for 3–5 minutes, until softened. Add the

2 tbsp brown crab meat

gnudi to the boiling water. Wait until they rise to the surface (about 3

1 egg yolk 2 tbsp type ‘00’ flour or plain flour

minutes), then continue to gently cook for 1 minute to heat through.

30g parmesan or pecorino, grated

As each gnudi is ready, scoop it straight into the pan with the

100g unsalted butter

butter and tomatoes. Very gently mix through the white crab meat

150g ripe cherry tomatoes, halved

to warm it through in the juices.

100g white crab meat

Season with salt and plenty of pepper and divide between 4

salt and freshly ground black pepper

shallow bowls. Scatter with the tarragon and a pinch of chilli flakes

½ small bunch of tarragon, leaves picked, to serve ½ tsp chilli flakes, to serve

80 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

to serve.

DUCK SOURS Tart, fruity flavours work beautifully alongside duck. I’ve used blackcurrant jam here, adding good red wine vinegar for balance. Cooked rare but rested a decent amount of time in the fruity, gingery juices makes this dish an especially succulent and worthwhile one to master. You’ll need a bit of time to sort the pommes Anna (sliced potatoes cooked in butter), but really, while this recipe sounds flash and restaurant-y, it’s a pushover to make. METHOD Preheat the oven to 190°C/fan 170°C/gas 5. Line a baking tray with some baking paper. Start with the pommes Anna. Drain the potatoes from the water and pat very dry, then coat in the butter or duck fat, sprinkle with the thyme leaves and season with salt and pepper. Using the potato slices, make a circle of potatoes on the tray, add another, slightly smaller circular layer on a different rotation. Build up a further 4 layers, each slightly smaller and each on a slightly different rotation, so that slices roughly look like the petals of a flower. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until the potatoes are golden brown at the edges and tender.

SERVES 2 FOR THE POMMES ANNA 600g small, waxy new potatoes (such as Charlotte), cut into 2mm slices and put into cold water 50g melted unsalted butter or duck fat ½ tbsp thyme leaves salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE DUCK 2 duck breasts 2 tbsp finely chopped stem ginger 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 tbsp runny honey 80g blackcurrant jam 1 tbsp red wine vinegar, plus more for the watercress salt and freshly ground black pepper TO SERVE a few handfuls of watercress walnut or hazelnut oil flaky salt

Using a sharp knife, score the fat side of the duck breasts in a crosshatch pattern all over. Season well with salt and pepper. Place the breasts, skin-sides downward, in a cold, ovensafe or cast-iron frying pan (skillet). Place the pan over a moderate heat and cook for about 8 minutes, or until much of the fat has rendered and the skin is crisp and brown all over. Turn over the duck breasts and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook for 5–6 minutes, or until rare in the middle (a meat thermometer should read about 55–60°C. Transfer the duck breasts, keeping the fat in the pan for the time being, to a plate and rub all over with the chopped stem ginger. Rest somewhere warm, while you prepare the sauce. From the pan, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the duck fat. Place the pan over a moderate heat and add the shallot. Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring briskly, then add the honey, blackcurrant jam and, finally, the vinegar. Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has reduced to a bubbling, syrupy consistency. Season well with salt and pepper. Return the duck breasts to the pan, skin-sides downward, reducing the heat to medium–low. Spoon or brush the sauce over the breasts to coat evenly. Turn the duck breasts skin-sides upward, spooning the sauce over the top of the breasts for about 30 seconds, then remove from the heat. Let the duck breasts rest for a final 5 minutes in the pan before slicing. While the duck is resting, dress the watercress leaves with walnut oil and some red wine vinegar, to taste. Sprinkle with flaky salt. Serve the duck with the sauce from the pan, the pommes Anna and the dressed watercress. Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

BLACKBERRY & BAY BROWNIES MADE WITH RYE More than just a pretty picture, these are flavours that flatter one another very well; sweet and bold, as if the blackberries and rye are meant to be together. Add the aromatic, spicy menthol notes of bay leaves and fruity, dark chocolate, both of which bring with them an intensity that suits very well these flavours of the earth, of autumn, and of wild brambly hedgerows (poetic licence, pick your own or buy the blackberries), and these are remarkably good brownies. As with all brownies, the trick is to almost under-bake them, leaving the brownies to firm up in the tin, with the chocolate then dreamily recalibrating with the blackberries from a melted mass to a dense and deeply rich form. METHOD Preheat the oven to 180°C/fan 160°C/gas 4. Line a 20cm square cake tin or 25 x 15cm rectangular tin with baking paper. Melt the chocolate and butter in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water or in a microwave on low (the defrost setting), gently stirring every now and then. Put the eggs and sugar together in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the beater attachment and beat together until light and fluffy, then, using a spoon, fold in the cocoa powder and flour, until combined. Carefully stir in the melted chocolate mixture and

SERVES 8–10 200g 70% dark chocolate, broken into small pieces 125g unsalted butter at room temperature, plus more for greasing 3 eggs, beaten

half the blackberries. Pour the cake batter into the prepared tin, dot with the remaining blackberries and the bay leaves and bake for 20–25 minutes, or until just firm to the touch and cracks have appeared at the edges. Remove from the oven and leave the brownies to cool to room temperature in the tin, until they have set. Cut into squares and serve.

250g light brown soft sugar 3 tbsp cocoa powder 100g rye flour (or use spelt or plain flour, if you like) 200g blackberries 5 bay leaves, scrunched a little

Recipes are taken from Home Cookery Year: Four Seasons, Over 200 Recipes for All Possible Occasions by Claire Thompson with photography by Sam Folan. Hardcover published by Quadrillle, RRP £30.

82 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Forthcoming Auctions Fine Art & Antiques 31st October 2020

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19th Century pearl and enamel bangle, sold for ÂŁ1,500 plus fees

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Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

the best of

BRITISH James Martin celebrates the unique food of the British Isles

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

SOUSED MACKEREL WITH BEETROOT SALAD One of the most underrated fish out there

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

STEAK WITH WHISKY-BRAISED ONIONS AND MUSTARD SAUCE Onions combined with steak and a simple mustard sauce

86 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

FOREST GIN AND FRUIT JELLIES A grown-up version of jelly and ice cream

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

SOUSED MACKEREL WITH BEETROOT SALAD This dish relies on the freshest mackerel and, in my opinion, it’s one of the most underrated fish out there as well as one of the cheapest. We surprised all the cameramen when I went mackerel fishing and – within 30 seconds of dropping the line in – we pulled up nine! Simply prepared, this is a magical dish. METHOD Put the mackerel on a board, flesh-side down, and use a sharp fish knife to cut through the skin in a criss-cross pattern. Place the gin, peppercorns, lemon juice and salt in a shallow, nonmetallic tray or dish and stir together. Lay the mackerel fillets on top, flesh-side down, and set aside for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the redcurrant jelly and vinegar together in a small pan to dissolve the jelly. Bring to the boil, then simmer until reduced by half. Put the mustard into a bowl, season, then pour the redcurrant sauce into it and whisk well. Add the diced beetroot and

SERVES 4

toss everything together.

2 mackerel, filleted and pin-boned

To serve, divide the beetroot salad between four plates. Drain the

50ml gin

mackerel from the marinade and place on top of the beetroot. Top

6 pink peppercorns

each with sliced pickled onions, a quenelle of crème fraîche (see

juice of 1 lemon

tip) and the micro herbs.

pinch of sea salt FOR THE SALAD 3 tablespoons redcurrant jelly 50ml red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 large cooked beetroot (not pickled in vinegar), diced TO SERVE 1 pickled onion, thinly sliced 50g thick crème fraîche small handful of micro herbs

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JAMES'S TIP To make a quenelle, use two metal teaspoons: scoop up half the crème fraîche with one spoon, scrape the other spoon against the crème fraîche to lift it off the first spoon, then do the same again to make a smooth oval.

STEAK WITH WHISKY-BRAISED ONIONS AND MUSTARD SAUCE Every chef becomes obsessed with certain ingredients at some point in the year and right now, my obsession is onions. These, combined with steak and a simple mustard sauce, were a favourite dish of Johnny on Camera Two when we were filming the show. METHOD If using, light your BBQ. When the coals are silvery in colour, it’s ready to cook on. Place the whole onions in a pan with the whisky and beef stock Cover and bring to the boil then reduce the heat slightly and simmer for 40 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to lift the onions out of their cooking liquor and set aside to cool a little. Reserve the liquor. Meanwhile, place the butter, garlic and pine sprigs into a separate pan and place over a low heat to melt the butter. If not cooking on the BBQ, preheat a griddle pan over a high heat.

SERVES 2

Cut the onions in half horizontally, then drizzle over the oil and

4 onions, peeled

season well. Cook on the griddle pan or on the BBQ, flat-side down,

50ml whisky

for a couple of minutes until charred. Lift onto a plate and set aside.

600ml beef stock

Season the steak all over, then brush with some of the melted pine

100g salted butter

butter. Cook on the hot griddle pan or on the BBQ for 2 minutes, then

1 garlic clove, crushed

brush with more butter, flip over and cook for another 2 minutes.

a few pine sprigs, washed and patted dry

Add the long-stem broccoli to the pan or BBQ for the last 2

1–2 tablespoons olive oil

minutes of cooking, again brushing with pine butter. Lift the steak

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

onto a board and rest for 4 minutes.

400g rump steak, 5cm thick 150g long-stem broccoli FOR THE SAUCE 2 tablespoons Scottish grainy mustard ½ teaspoon English mustard 2 tablespoons salted butter

To make the sauce, put both types of mustard in a pan with 1 tablespoon of the butter and 200ml of the reserved onion cooking liquor. Pour in the whisky, then flambé to burn off the alcohol, tipping the pan gently and carefully to ignite. Place over a medium heat and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, then stir in the cream and season well. Whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter to finish.

25ml whisky

Slice the steak into 3-cm thick slices and place on a platter with the

75ml double cream

broccoli, then spoon over the sauce. Pull the onions into petals and dot around before serving.

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

FOREST GIN AND FRUIT JELLIES I visited two great gin distilleries on my travels for this series. To be honest, I could have done a whole series on gin. Toad Gin in Oxford and Forest Gin in the Peak District provided some highlights as well as headaches! I love this dessert, as it is basically a grown-up version of jelly and ice cream. METHOD Put the gelatine leaves into a large bowl, pour over enough cold water to cover and leave to soak for 2–3 minutes. Pour the gin into a large pan, along with the elderflower cordial and sugar. Pour in 400ml water and heat gently over a low-medium heat to dissolve the sugar. Lift the gelatine leaves out of the bowl and squeeze out any excess water, then add to the pan and whisk in. Pour half the liquid into a separate bowl and set aside to make the elderflower and gin jellies (this step is optional – if you’d like all the jellies to be raspberry-flavoured, you can omit this).

SERVES 8–10 10 gelatine leaves

Add most of the raspberries to the remaining liquid in the pan, saving a few for decoration. Press down on the raspberries with the

100ml Forest gin

back of a metal spoon to extract the juices.

120ml elderflower cordial

Line a sieve with muslin and rest over a bowl. Pour the warm

50g caster sugar

raspberry liquid mixture into the sieve and strain through the muslin.

400g raspberries 400g mixed berries, such as strawberries, blackberries, redcurrants and blueberries TO SERVE 1 x 500ml tub raspberry sorbet a few mint sprigs

Divide the mixed berries, including the reserved raspberries, between 8–10 small jelly moulds (these can be any shape you like – have fun!). Pour the jelly mixture/s between the moulds, then chill in the fridge for 1 hour until set. When ready to serve, briefly dip the moulds into hot water and turn out each jelly onto a dessert plate. Serve with sorbet and decorated with mint sprigs.

Recipes are taken from James Martin's Islands to Highlands with photography by Peter Cassidy. Hardcover published by Quadrille Publishing Ltd.

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Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

IN BUSINESS

No Place Like Holme

We meet the creative team behind Holme Design 92 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

“The key to our success? We’re a family business, we work as a team, and our customers can see that we’re genuinely enthusiastic about we do.” or ten years now, Holme Design – husband-and-wife Mel and Haydn Armsby along with their son Chris – have been designing, supplying and fitting topquality kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms across North Yorkshire. Whether you’re looking for an ultra-modern makeover or something a little more traditional, their gorgeous showrooms in Bedale and Northallerton are full of inspiring ideas for transforming your living space.

BRIGHT IDEAS Haydn has several decades of experience under his belt, having been a kitchen designer since his early 20s. Mel initially came from a background in accounting but is, she says, “very much a person of two halves.” “I’m a typical Piscean: I love my creative side, and I’m passionate about interior design, but I’m also a very methodical person.” If you want ideas about colours and soft furnishings, Mel will be happy to advise – and when she’s not indulging her penchant for décor she’s keeping a close eye on all the paperwork.

Son Chris, following in Haydn’s footsteps, has become an expert at computer-aided design. “Nowadays Chris is very much the one that pushes us along,” explains Mel. “He’s constantly looking at what’s happening in London – and all over the world for that matter – and coming up with new and original ideas. “Clients like the fact that we work together as a family, that we’re all equally involved and that any of us can help them with whatever queries they might have. They also like the fact that we can get the whole project done from start to finish. It’s a stress-free process for them, and they don’t have to worry about anything.”

S TAY I N G O N T R AC K “The specialists in our fitting teams are all people we’ve known for a long time and that we have confidence in, so customers can be sure that the job won’t stall. When we say it will be a two-week installation then it really will be done in two weeks.” “Because we believe we work best as a close-knit team, we’ve purposely kept Holme Design small. We’re not looking to build an empire. We would rather concentrate on giving exceptional customer service.” Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

As part of their concern for quality, Holme Design is keen to support British businesses – and local ones where possible – as far as they can. “A big thing for us is that we use British manufacturers,” says Mel. “Our kitchens are made predominantly in Yorkshire. Even the wood used for the carcasses of the units is grown in the UK and sourced responsibly.” Like all Dales businesses, Holme Design had been affected by the Covid-19 crisis. “We reopened in the middle of June,” says Mel, “and fortunately we haven’t had any problems in our supply chain so far. But we have had to reschedule in one or two cases where customers are having preparatory construction work done and vital items are in short supply. Everybody has been busy on their own DIY projects during lockdown and builders are finding it difficult sourcing materials like timber and plaster. Fortunately things are getting back to normal now.”

ALL CHANGE Looking to the future, how have interior design styles evolved over the years that Mel and Haydn have been in the business – and where are they heading now? “In the ‘90s, wood kitchens were very much the in thing,” says Mel. “Following that, the fashion was for painted units in ivories, creams and limestones, paired with dark worktops. Now people are looking for something a bit bolder and want a splash of colour: muted pink, grey-purple, or even deep indigo blue, with pale work surfaces. And quartz worktops have become increasingly popular, as popular as granite, in fact.”

| AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

“A big thing for us is that we use British manufacturers, …our kitchens are made predominantly in Yorkshire” Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

“The move towards a more colourful look reflects changing patterns in the way we live and work. Rather than have a separate kitchen and lounge, the trend is towards combining the two into a bigger, multifunctional space, a more open-plan living experience – one that brings the garden into play too, where possible.” “As time becomes more precious, people want to be all together in the same area at least once a day, even if they’re not all doing the same thing there. It’s about creating a more sociable, family-oriented space.” As a sociable family themselves, the Armsbys enjoy walking their three dogs in the Dales and on the moors, and tending their garden at Holme-on-Swale near Thirsk. “Holme-onSwale is a lovely little hamlet on a single-track road,” says Mel, “just 17 houses and no street lights. It’s a wonderful place and we feel really lucky to have lived there for 13 years. In fact we love it so much that we borrowed the name for our business!” For more information about Holme Design visit holmedesign.com or call 01677 424669

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t: 01969 622296 e: stone@calverts.co.uk w: www.calverts.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

A SLICE OF SUNSHINE Letitia Clark invites you to try these simple and nourishing dishes from her kitchen in Sardinia

LINAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CULURGIONIS It is hard not to fall for these rustic, chubby, Sardinian cousins of ravioli

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FENNEL GRATIN Gratins are instant crowd-pleasers

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

PEAR, PECORINO AND RICOTTA RAVIOLI These are surprisingly delicate and dainty ravioli

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ALMOND PANNA COTTA WITH ROSÃ&#x2030; POACHED CHERRIES AND WILD FENNEL A wonderfully gentle, creamy way to finish a meal

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LINA’S CULURGIONIS It is hard not to fall for these rustic, chubby, Sardinian cousins of ravioli. More like dumplings, they are made of a simple semolina pasta dough stuffed with a filling of cheese, garlic, potato and mint, and shaped into an oval parcel with a plaited seam formed by a series of deft nips and tucks. The Sardinians say they resemble an ear of wheat. Like ravioli, culurgionis are poached in salted boiling water for a few minutes and served with tomato sauce and grated pecorino, or occasionally sage butter. METHOD First, make the filling. Drop the potatoes into a saucepan of well salted water and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are cooked through, drain well and peel them with your fingers (much easier when they are warm) and pass them through a ricer or mouli. Mix with the oil, egg, garlic, cheese and mint. Mix together well (I find this easiest with my hands) and taste for seasoning. Add salt if necessary. Cover and place in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or long enough to cool, but you can also make it the night before and leave overnight, if you like.

SERVES 6–8 FOR THE FILLING 700g yellow potatoes 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 egg

Next, make the dough. Mix all of the ingredients with 140ml water using your hands or a stand mixer and knead until you have a smooth, even dough; this will take at least 5 minutes of good, firm kneading. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest for half an hour. Again, you can do this the night before.

1 small garlic clove, grated

Roll out the dough with a pasta machine or a rolling pin, adding flour

100g pecorino, finely grated, plus extra to serve

when necessary, until it is 1–2 mm or so thick. Use a highball glass to

80g Parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to serve

shape it smoothly and place it in the centre of the dough. Using your

70g Provoletta, other mild soft cow’s cheese or cheddar, finely grated handful of mint leaves, finely chopped sea salt, to taste FOR THE DOUGH 300g semolina 1 tablespoon olive oil pinch of sea salt TO SERVE 1 x quantity tomato sauce of your choice basil leaves

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cut circles from the dough. Take a walnut-sized piece of the filling, left hand to cup it, fold and pleat the dough over itself to encase the filling. Place on a tray and set aside. Once made, these will keep for about 4 days in the fridge and freeze well. When ready to cook, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Drop in the culurgionis and cook for 2–3 minutes until they rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and place into a warm sauce. Stir to coat and serve with basil leaves and cheese.

FENNEL GRATIN There are few things that aren’t better when baked in a creamy sauce and cooked under the grill until crisp on top. Gratins are instant crowd-pleasers, and so simple to put together. The two main ways to make a gratin are with a traditional béchamel, or with a simple cream reduction, the latter of which is used in this recipe. I love béchamel, but the delicacy of fennel seems to work better this way. A staple vegetable in Sardinia, fennel provides a clean and fresh flavour throughout the year. This is a wonderful way of using them, and is delicious served with steak, fish or roast pork, or even just on its own. METHOD Preheat the oven to 190°C/fan 170°C/gas 5. Generously butter a medium-sized gratin dish. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Drop in the fennel slices and cook for two minutes, until just translucent, but not floppy. Drain well, pat dry with paper and lay them in a buttered gratin dish. Heat the cream with the garlic clove in a small saucepan and bring almost to the boil – at which point, take off the heat and set aside to infuse for 10 minutes. After this time, fish out the garlic and season the cream with salt and nutmeg, tasting as you go.

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN OR 6 AS A SIDE butter, for greasing 3 fennel bulbs, sliced to ½cm thickness 350ml double cream

Add a third of the cheese and stir until incorporated. Pour the cream over the fennel. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs and the rest of the Parmesan over the top and bake in the oven for around 25 minutes, until golden and bubbling.

1 garlic clove, bashed sea salt pinch of grated nutmeg 50g Parmesan, grated 30g breadcrumbs

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PEAR, PECORINO AND RICOTTA RAVIOLI Based on a brilliant recipe by Emiko Davies, these are surprisingly delicate and dainty ravioli that will win over any sweet-with-savoury sceptic. The filling can be made well in advance and kept in the fridge for a few days. The ravioli are very good served simply with olive oil, fresh basil in summer and a little extra cheese. The filling can be made well in advance and kept in the fridge for a few days. METHOD In a small saucepan, poach the pears gently in a little water with the sugar and lemon until they are just soft, about 10 minutes. Allow to cool, then slice them into tiny pieces, about the size of a petit pois. In a small bowl, mix the pear with the ricotta, pecorino and a good pinch of sea salt, then taste for seasoning. The mix needs to be well seasoned, because ricotta drinks salt. Cut the pasta into 4 pieces and roll each into a long thick strip using a pasta machine, or a rolling pin, until it is thin enough to just see your hand through. Keep dusting your surfaces with semolina

SERVES 6

to prevent sticking. Dust a tray with semolina ready to place your

3 pears, peeled, cored and halved

ravioli onto.

1 tablespoon brown sugar

Using a piping bag or a teaspoon, dot walnut-sized amounts of

peeled zest of Â˝ a lemon

your filling 5cm apart, in the centre of your wide strip of pasta. Cut

350g ricotta

each into a strip containing just 3 of your ravioli. Lightly brush the

100g pecorino, grated, plus extra to serve

lower half with a little water and fold over the top half of the pasta

sea salt 1 x quantity fresh egg pasta dough semolina, for dusting sage butter a handful walnuts, toasted

sheet to enclose the filling. Press down gently using the palms of your hands and seal the ravioli all the way around. Cut them out into squares or half-moons, depending on your preference. Place on the tray and chill for 30 minutes. When ready to cook, bring a large pan of well-salted water to the boil, and have the sage butter ready to go in a frying pan big enough to accommodate all the ravioli. Drop in your ravioli and cook them for 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 minutes, until they bob to the surface and the pasta is cooked through. Decant them with a slotted spoon into the sage butter, stir gently to coat and serve, with toasted walnuts and more grated pecorino on top.

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ALMOND PANNA COTTA WITH ROSÉ POACHED CHERRIES AND WILD FENNEL Panna cotta is a wonderfully gentle, creamy way to finish a meal. It couldn’t be easier to make. There are some lovely rosé wines made in Sardinia, and whilst I rarely drink them, I like cooking with them. The wild fennel highlights the delicate anise flavours of the cherry and wine, but if you cannot find it then chervil is a good substitute. METHOD Set the oven to 170°C/fan 150°C/gas 3½. Roast the almonds until they just begin to smell nutty, for about 8–10 minutes. Once they’ve cooled a little, roughly chop. In a small saucepan, bring the chopped almonds, cream, lemon zest and sugar to the boil then simmer very gently, stirring occasionally and allowing the almonds to seep their flavours into the mix. After a few minutes, remove from the heat and set aside. In the meantime, soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water. When it is totally soft, add it to the warm mixture and stir well. The gelatine

SERVES 6 200g whole peeled almonds 550ml single cream 3 strips of lemon zest

should dissolve completely (if it doesn’t, warm the whole mix a little again). Strain through a fine sieve into a pouring jug. You can keep the almonds to add to your porridge or muesli the next day. Divide your mixture into ramekins or serving dishes of your choice.

80g caster sugar

Chill in the fridge until set, around 3–4 hours. If eating the next day,

2 gelatine leaves

cover well and remove from the fridge an hour or so before you

TO SERVE

want to eat them.

300g cherries

Stone and halve the cherries. Place them in a shallow pan with the

1 glass of rosé wine

wine, a splash of water, sugar and lemon zest. Cover. Bring to a

100g caster sugar

simmer and then poach until the cherries are soft but not mushy,

zest and juice of ½ lemon

around 10–15 minutes. Taste the sauce and reduce to your taste,

fronds of wild fennel or chervil

adding more lemon juice or sugar to your liking. Allow to cool. When ready to serve, spoon the cherries on top of the panna cottas and scatter with the fennel or chervil.

Recipes are taken from Bitter Honey by Letitia Clark, with photography by Matt Russell, published by Hardie Grant, £26.

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SNAP HAPPY The winners from our lockdown photography competition, along with an impressive collection of highly commended images from our readers

THIS PAGE FROM TOP LEFT We werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expecting a cow and penny-farthing but this photo by Tony Everett made us smile, and wins first prize Second prize went to this super cute hedgehog rescued in Masham, by Emma Rudge Morris Low Oxnop Farm in Swaledale, Diana Horner

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THIS PAGE FROM TOP LEFT A carpet of celandine in Richmond, Jacob Heringman Sunset in Danby Wiske, Sarah Garbutt Rainbow on our farm, Butterpark, Egton Bridge, Ruth Cockrem Keeping watch in Thoralby, Rebecca Buck Mouse having breakfast in Leyburn, Dawn Flynn Blowing in the wind, Lucy Wilman

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FROM LEFT Wren with chicks in Ingleby Barwick, Joyce Hanson Four leaf clover hunt, Rebecca Spence Goldfinch in blossom, Pickering, Michelle Long Kids exploring near Penhill, Jennifer Rachel Scott Smiling lambs in Redmire, Vanessa Clare Clouds over the River Ure, Sandra Richardson Blackbird having a bath, Sharon Lomas Swan on canal near Skipton, John Mathew Sparrowhawk in Magnolia, Gilling West, Roger Lombard Meadow saxifrage, Leeming Beck, Helen Costello

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FROM ABOVE Bootiful wellingtons in Skipton, Jane Ellison-Bates Sunset in the Dales, Jill Mummy Metcalfe Wood anemone in Freeholders Wood, Mark Ashcroft Whitby, a little less crowded, Tony Bass Geese flying over Worton, Louise Akid

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Time to bounce back! The last few months have been tough, but there’s light at the end of the tunnel. There’s a new sense of community in the Dales, and everyone is keen to support local businesses. This is the perfect opportunity to grab a slice of business that might otherwise go elsewhere. And we’re here to help you get your message across. With over 25 years of supporting independent local businesses, we can make sure everyone in the Dales knows you’re back in action.

To ﬁnd out more email sue@daleslife.com or call 01904 279499

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COLLECTED WORKS

Minton Pottery ome ceramics manufacturers are renowned for a single, instantly recognisable style; others have a much more varied output. The Minton factory, for example, was a supremely competent all-rounder, capable of producing high quality work in a huge range of different styles. There are avid collectors for all categories of Minton’s pottery, according to Andrew Parker, Ceramics Consultant at Tennants Auctioneers in Leyburn. But their most sought-after wares, he says, are the stunning majolica items they produced in the second half of the 19th century. A glance at the cat-shaped jug illustrated here makes it clear why Minton majolica is so prized. With its exquisite modelling and lush glazes – along with the clever design in which the cat’s tail forms the jug’s handle – it’s no wonder this fantastic feline fetched £2,000 when it went under the hammer at Tennants a year or two ago.

Pitchers at an Exhibition

The Minton story begins in 1793, when the enterprising Joseph Minton set up his own pottery in Stoke-upon-Trent. The firm would go on to become one of Europe’s leading potteries, and it remained a family business until the mid-20th century, when it was absorbed by Royal Doulton. 112 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

In the early years Minton made mainly earthenware tableware, but by the mid-1800s they had added encaustic tiles and a variety of sophisticated porcelain goods to their repertoire. At the Great Exhibition of 1851 the company introduced a modernised version of the tin-glazed earthenware pottery of the Italian Renaissance – originally known as ‘maiolica’ but thenceforth styled ‘majolica’. With its vibrant colours, quirky designs and naturalistic modelling, majolica soon became immensely popular and Minton’s innovations were widely imitated.

exploring antiques and collectables

1: A Minton majolica jug modelled as a seated cat, circa 1875. Sold by Tennants for £2,000. 2: A pair of Minton porcelain and ormolu candlesticks, circa 1860. Sold by Tennants for £1,600. 3: A Minton majolica asparagus tray, dated 1871. Sold by Tennants for £130. 4: A Minton majolica game pie dish and cover, dated 1866. Sold by Tennants for £250. 5: A pair of Minton plates decorated with birds on a blue ground, circa 1870. Sold by Tennants for £800. 6: A Minton earthenware dessert service decorated with British birds, circa 1880. Sold by Tennants for £220. 7: A Minton punch bowl painted with a seascape border, circa 1920. Sold by Tennants for £150.

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113

‘conservative in terms of taste, expensive to acquire at the time, and still eagerly sought by specialist collectors today’ Through the 1860s and 1870s Minton made an immense range of items in majolica, from vases and candlesticks to stick stands, planters, garden seats and monumental sculptural pieces – plus a dazzling variety of tableware, two examples of which are shown here. The asparagus tray features a cradle of ceramic asparagus spears, and the game pie dish is decorated with an authentically deadlooking duck and rabbit. The latter is perhaps a little too macabre for most modern collectors; tureens featuring livelier animals fetch higher prices nowadays, says Andrew. Whether or not you appreciate the subject matter, there’s no denying the skill with which both pieces, and especially the pie dish, are made. The body and cover of the dish have been formed in a mould, and the oak leaves appliquéed to create extra depth and interest. The delicate azure colour of the inside is typical of Minton – you can see the same glaze inside the magnificent cat jug.

Backwards and Forwards

There’s more to Minton than majolica, though, as you can see from the other lots illustrated here. But whereas in the case of majolica Minton was a leader and an innovator, much of the company’s other work – finely crafted though it is – borrows themes and techniques from elsewhere.

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At much the same time that Minton was developing its exuberant majolica wares, the factory produced the porcelain and ormolu candlesticks shown here. Here Minton’s craftspeople are unashamedly copying Continental pieces from a century earlier, adorning the extravagant rococo bases with a pair of rosy-cheeked 18th century children. Presumably this nostalgia was a sound commercial decision; majolica may have been a little too novel for some of their customers. In the case of the pair of plates featuring delicately delineated birds on a sky-blue ground, made around 1870, Minton is looking back to Limoges enamels of the 16th century. Once again, very conservative in terms of taste, expensive to acquire at the time, and still eagerly sought by specialist collectors today. A decade later we see Minton taking the same theme – crockery with pierced borders and painted birds – and adapting it to the prevailing taste of the time, in this instance the Aesthetic movement. Now instead of stylised birds and foliage we have real, identifiable British birds of the kind you might see in your garden, depicted together with foliage from recognisable trees and shrubs. During the 20th century Minton continued to exhibit the same split personality that had characterised its operations all along: sometimes looking backwards, sometimes in tune with the times. On the one hand the company’s pre-war ‘Secessionist Ware’ celebrated the design revolution spearheaded by Viennese artists like Klimt. Post-war, however, the company quickly settled into making pieces like the punch bowl depicted here. It’s a thoroughly safe, conventional item that combines swags and gilding harking back to the Regency period with top quality, but distinctly unadventurous, painting. Minton’s Golden Age had very definitely passed. For more information about Tennants Auctioneers or to arrange a valuation, visit tennants.co.uk or call 01969 623780.

• • • • • • • •

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• office@ryedaleplasterers.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 | 115

Relax… It’s easy when you get used to it

We are hot tub specialists and only supply the finest hot tubs on the market with unique features. With over 30 years’ experience, we pride ourselves on providing the correct hot tub for you and your family. Please visit our showroom or call us for further information. A Bigger Splash, Unit 6, Brompton Industrial Park, Station Road, Brompton-on-Swale, N. Yorkshire DL10 7SN 01748 812039 www.a-biggersplash.co.uk abiggersplash2@aol.com

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Nordic Walking in Wensleydale Do you fancy turning your walk into a workout? • Suitable for all ages and ﬁtness levels, available as 1-1 or small group sessions • No need for special clothing and all equipment provided

The beneﬁts of Nordic Walking include: • Burns more calories than ordinary walking

Dreamtribe is a small business in the heart of rural Yorkshire specialising in artisan products such as handmade cushion covers, incense sticks, dhoop cones, elephant bags and accessories and a wide range of eco-products. I am available for craft fairs, markets and pop-up stalls. Please contact me at info@dreamtribe.co.uk for more information.

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• Uses upper body muscles and encourages better posture

• Offers a range of preventative beneﬁts for body and mind.

Contact your local fully qualiﬁed Nordic Walking Instructor / Personal Trainer Jane on 07936 660091 email: janepick70@gmail.com

www.dalesdiscoveries.com/365/nordic-walking

THINKING ABOUT LETTING YOUR HOLIDAY HOME? Join Yorkshireâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading independent lettings agency Local office in Hawes

Property Management available

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CW Dales Life Advert.qxp_Layout 1 29/10/2019 11:32 Page 2

CLEAR LEGAL ADVICE

Darlington

Catterick Garrison

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NORMAN F. BROWN CHARTERED SURVEYORS • ESTATE AGENTS • LETTINGS Selling and letting property since 1967

Wensleydale Avenue, Leyburn A well-presented terraced bungalow close to the town centre. Entrance porch, lounge/dining room, inner hall, kitchen, conservatory, double bedroom, bathroom/ wc, garage, driveway, front & rear gardens, G/F C/H, UPVC D/G. EER C70 EIR C73.

Well-presented modern detached family house close to the town centre. Ent. hall, lounge, kitchen/dining room, cloakroom/ wc, 4 bedrooms, 2 en-suite shower rooms, family bathroom/wc, garage, driveway, front & rear gardens, G/F CH, UPVC D/G, NHBC guarantee. EER B84 EIR B86.

Coverdale Close, Leyburn

Arkle Terrace, Reeth

£146,000 Leyburn Office

£319,950 Leyburn Office

£335,000 Richmond Office

14 Queens Rd, Richmond

01748 822473

6 Bridge Street, Bedale

01677 422282

A well-proportioned modernised end terraced cottage close to the village. Ent. porch, hall, lounge, dining room, kitchen, 3 bedrooms, bathroom/wc, garage, driveway, front & rear gardens, small portion of rear field, oil-fired central heating, UPVC D/G. No forward chain. EER F35 EIR F31

25 Market Place, Leyburn

01969 622194

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 | 119

On the market

Our regular round-up of beautiful properties for sale in Yorkshire.

SCHOOL HOUSE, MIDDLEHAM Historic Grade II listed property. Six double bedrooms. Established holiday let with rental income of £70,000 p.a. Guide price: OIEO £795,000. Robin Jessop Ltd. 01969 622800 robinjessop.co.uk

THE BARN, NORTHALLERTON Barn conversion with 4 bedrooms. Large gardens and woodland. Double garage & workshop. Access to Northallerton. Guide price: OIEO £635,000 Robin Jessop Ltd. 01677 425950 robinjessop.co.uk

THE OLD POST OFFICE, THORNTON RUST

NEWHOLME, AYSGARTH

An attractive double-fronted house in a quiet village location with fantastic views. 4 double bedrooms. Front & rear gardens. Guide price: £440,000 Robin Jessop Ltd. 01969 622800 robinjessop.co.uk

A spacious detached bungalow with stunning views. Two double bedrooms. Enclosed gardens. Garage & parking Guide price: £265,000 Robin Jessop Ltd. 01969 622800 robinjessop.co.uk

THE GROVE, HEALAUGH

5 KING GARTH, WEST BURTON

Traditional stone cottage in a quiet Dales village. 3 double bedrooms. Private garden. Beautiful views. Detached garage. Guide price: £325,000 Robin Jessop Ltd. 01969 622800 robinjessop.co.uk

Beautifully presented detached house. 3 double bedrooms. Large private garden. Garage & parking. Lovely views. Guide price £400,000 Robin Jessop Ltd. 01969 622800 robinjessop.co.uk

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CHAR TE RE D S U RVEYOR S • E ST AT E AG E N T S • P R OP E R T Y A U C T I O NE E R S • V A L U E R S • L A ND A G E NT S

EAST LANE HOUSE & BARN, BISHOPDALE

LAUREL BARN, PRESTON-UNDER-SCAR

Traditional Dales long house comprising three bed house and two bed cottage. Double garage, stabling & small garth. Rural location with panoramic views. Guide price: £495,000

Uniquely designed three bedroom house with flexible accommodation, parking & courtyard garden. Quiet village location with lovely views Guide price: £325,000

VALLEY VIEW, WEST WITTON

BRINDLEY HOUSE, THORNTON RUST

A characterful detached house with four double bedrooms. Fabulous views and pretty garden to the rear. Outbuilding & garage. Guide price: £375,000

Delightful three bedroom country cottage in a popular village. Very well presented. Garden and useful store. Ideal small family or second home Guide price: £275,000

ARNGILL, WEST WITTON

FIELDFARE BARN, CONSTABLE BURTON

A charming detached cottage with three double bedrooms. Quiet position within a popular village. Pretty rear gardens. Lovely views. Guide price range: £325,000 - £350,000

A stunning barn conversion in a rural location. Two double bedrooms. High quality fixtures & fittings. Excellent views. Off road parking.

Bedale 01677 425950

Guide price range: £340,000 - £360,000

robinjessop.co.uk

Dales Life 01969 | AUTUMN622800 2020 | 121 Leyburn

NORMAN F. BROWN CHARTERED SURVEYORS • ESTATE AGENTS • LETTINGS Selling and letting property since 1967

Penwood, Leyburn

A well-proportioned detached bungalow. Entrance hall, lounge, kitchen/diner, three bedrooms, shower room/wc, garage, gardens, G/F C/H, UPVC D/G. No forward chain. EER 54, EIR 50.

A D Coach House Cottage, Fremington

Greenacres, Harmby

Semi-detached Grade II listed cottage. Kitchen/living room, dining, utility, 3 bedrooms, bathroom/wc, drive, south facing front. garden, storage heating, part D/G. NO CHAIN. EPC N/A.

Detached cottage requiring modernisation. Entrance hall, lounge, dining room, kitchen, 3 double bedrooms, bathroom/wc, driveway, gardens, oil c/h, UPVC dg. No chain. EER G17 EIR G18.

£254,950 Leyburn Office

£275,000 Richmond Office

£235,000 Leyburn Office

14 Queens Rd, Richmond

01748 822473

6 Bridge Street, Bedale

01677 422282

25 Market Place, Leyburn

01969 622194

FLOOR TILES & FLAGS CLEANED AND SEALED Kitchens • Conservatories • Halls

Looking for new customers? Advertising in Dales Life is your best choice by far. Over 80,000 readers per issue 27 years proven success 100% focused on Dales businesses The only quality magazine delivered directly through letterboxes In the Dales.

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122 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

daleslife.com

Your Legal Companion ESTATE PLANNING • Wills and probate • Estate administration • Powers of attorney • Care home fees • Tax planning • Estate disputes PROPERTY & RURAL LAW • Property sales & purchases • Landlord and tenants matters • Agricultural land • Leases and tenancies • Rights of way • Sporting rights & purchases • Wind farms FAMILY • Adoption • Separation & divorce • Contact with children or grandchildren • Civil partnership dissolution

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Market Place Hawes, North Yorkshire DL8 3QS

7 Railway Street Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 5EH

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e. office@mbmcgarry.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 | 123

Authorised and regulated by The Solicitors Regulation Authority Number 606950

It's far too good to miss Take out a subscription and we'll deliver every issue direct to your door â&#x20AC;&#x201C; no more wasted trips in search of a copy. A subscription makes a perfect gift for friends and family too.

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John Blenkiron & Sons Funeral Directors

Founded by John Blenkiron in 1967 and now managed by his twin sons James and John, we serve the communities of North Yorkshire and County Durham from our offices in Richmond and Barnard Castle. The brothers are supported by a team of ten loyal and dedicated staff including their sister Sarah and their niece Rebecca. We are passionate about providing the highest levels of care to families and service to our community, maintaining the reputation we have helped to build up over more than 50 years. Call us for immediate support, advice or to arrange a home visit. We are here to help 24 hours a day. Prepaid funeral plans also available.

Richmond

Barnard Castle

Catterick

01748 850 033

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Leyburn

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www.blenkirons.co.uk Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 | 125

The Millings Residential, Respite & day CaRe Home foR oldeR people RATED AS

OUTSTANDING BY CQC

Meet the Team

north end, Bedale, north yorkshire dl8 1af Tel: 01677 423635 www.residential-homes.net

collect your copy from: Booths, Ripon | Milners of Leyburn The Co-Op, Masham | The Black Sheep, Masham Bear Cottage, Hawes | Dovetail Interiors, Bedale Ravensworth Nurseries, Richmond The Post Office, Hunton | Tennants of Leyburn Mainsgill Farm Shop, Richmond Wensleydale Creamery, Hawes Barkers, Northallerton The Bruce Arms, West Tanfield

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FRANKYN CARE HOMES DEDICATED TO QUALITY CARE We pride ourselves in creating a home from home, in a welcoming atmosphere. Our Residents enjoy savouring our fabulous menuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s created from locally sourced produce, and can enjoy daily activities. All our homes have an excellent reputation in the local community. A Home for life.

HILLCREST

THE GATEHOUSE

KIRKWOOD

STOBARS HALL

Catterick Garrison 01748 834444

Harrogate 01423 535700

Ilkley 01943 600653

Kirkby Stephen 01768 371291

Our managers are happy to chat and offer a virtual tour - Respite stays currently available.

www.thefranklyngroup.com Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 | 127

to dine for

Great places to eat and stay in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales 128 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

SWINTON BIVOUAC CAFÉ MASHAM

SWINTON PARK, MASHAM

The perfect stop-off for walkers, cyclists and those simply seeking delicious food, coffee and scrumptious cakes, inside or out, on the stunning Swinton Estate. Inclement Yorkshire days are catered for too – the log burning stove keeping fingers and toes nice and toasty. Check the website for opening times. swintonestate.com 01765 680900

From the award-winning, fine dining experience in the grandeur of Samuel’s Restaurant to the more relaxed AA Rosette Terrace Bar and Restaurant, serving morning coffee, lunch, dinner and fabulous cocktails. Both restaurants showcase local and seasonal produce with much from the estate and four-acre walled garden. swintonestate.com 01765 680900

FOX HALL INN, EAST LAYTON

TENNANTS GARDEN ROOMS, LEYBURN

The Fox Hall Inn is a historic Dales hostelry with spectacular views across Holmedale. Recently refurbished, it offers beautifully presented, freshly cooked dishes, served in a choice of several smart, stylish dining areas, including a light, airy restaurant, a patio and a cosy, dog-friendly bar. foxhallinn.co.uk 01325 718303

The restaurant at this multipurpose venue blends relaxed elegance and great food with confident menus focused on quality local ingredients. Serving freshly prepared, seasonal dishes, it is open for lunches, early suppers and pre-concert packages. There’s also a café that’s perfect for casual dining. tennantsgardenrooms.com 01969 621146

THE BLACK SHEEP, MASHAM

THE SANDPIPER INN, LEYBURN

Tour the brewery, dine in the Bistro, and taste The Black Sheep’s award-winning beers at the ‘Baa...r’. You can also buy lots of goodies from the wellstocked Sheepy Shop. A ‘ewe-nique’ venue for corporate entertaining, product launches, parties and weddings! blacksheepbrewery.com 01765 680101

Sample award-winning chef Jonathan Harrison’s unique take on modern British cooking in The Sandpiper’s 40-seater restaurant or the cosy traditional bar serving local ales, fine wines and an extensive range of whiskies. There are two tasteful boutique-style en suite doubles for overnight guests. sandpiperinn.co.uk 01969 622206

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 | 129

STONE HOUSE HOTEL, SEDBUSK

THE SADDLE ROOM RESTAURANT & WINE CELLAR, COVERDALE

An elegant country house near Hawes in Wensleydale. With 24 well-appointed guest bedrooms and an award-winning restaurant, Stone House is the perfect place to be in the Yorkshire Dales. Open daily for light lunches and dinners. Menus change daily and include the freshest ingredients from the Dales and Yorkshire coast. stonehousehotel.co.uk 01969 667571

Next door to The Forbidden Corner, The Saddle Room features several differently styled dining areas offering sumptuous locally sourced food, cooked to perfection. There’s a fabulous wine cellar where you can browse over 100 wines, and stylish cottages and B&B rooms for overnight stays. thesaddleroom.co.uk 01969 640596

THE STATION CAFÉ | BAR RICHMOND

THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS, CRACOE

Relax and unwind in the The Station Café | Bar, situated under The Station’s stunning roof. Enjoy light bites, cakes, British classics, hearty Station favourites, not forgetting your Sunday dinner fix, all prepared using the freshest local ingredients. Open 9am until late daily. Offers and events held throughout the year thestation.co.uk/cafebar 01748 825967

A welcoming family-run 16th century inn in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales National Park between Skipton and Grassington. The restaurant features a creative, constantly changing seasonal menu focused on locally sourced Yorkshire produce, with more informal dining available in the Devonshire’s cosy bar. devonshirearmsinncracoe.co.uk 01756 699191

THE WHITE BEAR, MASHAM

THE BLACK SWAN, FEARBY

The White Bear’s talented chefs use locally sourced ingredients to create delicious seasonal dishes, and there’s an extensive wine list to complement the menu. You can enjoy your meal in the charming dining room or the traditional bar, with open fires creating a cosy atmosphere throughout. thewhitebearhotel.co.uk 01765 689319

The Black Swan at Fearby, near Masham, is a 17th century inn offering a warm welcome, local beers and four-star rooms with fine views of the local moors. The menu and ever-changing specials board feature top quality homemade food based around fresh, seasonal local ingredients. blackswan-masham.co.uk 01765 689477

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Family Law

Property Law

Business Advice

Employment Law

Wills, Probate & Family Trusts

Estate Planning

Lasting Powers of Attorney

Advising the Elderly

Farming & Agriculture

Dispute Resolution

FAMILY LAW CLINIC We also run a family law clinic once a

For help and legal advice call

week at our Bedale and Ripon oďŹ&#x192;ces.

Bedale 01677 422422 Ripon 01765 601717 Thirsk 01845 522324 www.eccles-heddon.co.uk

Please telephone Jane Midgley at Bedale or Liz Kidd at Ripon to book a FREE 30-minute consultation.

Dales Life | AUTUMN 2020 |

131

Be Inspired VISIT OUR SHOWROOMS Unit 1, The Craft Yard, The Station, Bedale, North Yorkshire DL8 1AW 85 High Street, Northallerton DL7 8PP Call 01677 424669 or 01609 770777 for more information or to arrange a free design consultation 132 | AUTUMN 2020 | Dales Life

Dales Life Autumn 2020

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TO DINE FOR

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IN BUSINESS

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