Blink issue 22 june21 2014

INDIANA JONES IN KOLKATA Cameras and claimants were ready and waiting when three antique chests were unlocked.

What did they find? p3 saturday, june 21, 2014

PTI

The number of pilgrims and tourists might have plummeted, but the people of Uttarakhand are slowly rebuilding their lives and livelihoods p9

After the flood

ADIEU SLOW READING In defence of online reading, where one moves in spirals, not lines p16

LORD OF THE PITCH As the ground at Lord’s hits 200 years, a recap of its illustrious history p22

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On the fringes An adivasi village near the Mudumalai forest reserve courtesy; accord,

The holy grail The Lord’s has always had to be prepared for the English rain shutterstock; and (below) a replica of the Ashes Urn

adivasi cultural centre, gudalur, tamil nadu

afp/ian kington

Tour of the Lord’s Tickets for the men’s MCC v/s the Rest of the World game have already been sold out while those for the anniversary day MCC v/s Hertfordshire game on June 22 are available for £10 (£5 for children). Those who hold tickets for the latter can sign up for cricket master classes with former English players. Apart from a special anniversary day tour, Lord’s regularly conducts tours for visitors on all days of the week when there are no international matches happening. These tours have proven to be popular especially with Indian holidayers in England, who represent the highest proportion of visitors from any country. The tour starts at the museum, taking you through the pavilion, followed by a trip to the stands and the space-age media centre before ending at the gift shop where you can buy jerseys, beer mugs and replica Urns. Tickets cost £18 (adult), £12 (children aged 5-15, students and over-60s) and £49 (two adults, two Sir Sobers, organisation) Glenn McGrath of (an Garfield adivasi peoples’ says,and “Madi after marriage.

Older women be granted children).

Check lords.org forcan details. course, Vengsarkar himself? is the first Bettakurumba woman who has fil- the status of the chief of a village while men tale of Lord’s, though, is more than just edThe such a case, we must stand by her.”

Those are sometimes seen cleaning, taking care of about the honour boards — the guide supporting her have received offers of regales money children That first match wasat played onAdivasi June 22,wom1814 and cooking homes. us with of quirks, quaint traditions from thestories forest department officials to with- between MCCtheir and names a visiting from en do notthe change afterside marriage and of the finest of cricket ever Hertfordshire, drawsome the case.

But Madigames says with determinais on veryofday two and children doand notitbear thethe name their faplayed twotake centuries.

I stroll through centuries tion, “I over will not the caseAsback.” later Traditionally, that the sameitclubs off thers at birth. was will also face accepttheMadi’s pavilion andagainst the famed I gawk in battle theLong forestRoom, department anfor anniversary rematch. coincide able both men and womenIttowill have several at works art depicting the game in both its with is part of of a larger story about the battles of the otherthrough events such as cricket master classpartners life, something that would rural origins modern-day adivasis.

Their and traditional ways splendour are under es, fairground stalls and even coconutwoman.

Shy carcertainly tarnish a ‘chaste’ non-tribal alongside legends likeThe the Kattuthree nival threat by portraits the forestofdepartment. games onrest theof training grounds Clearly, the India has muchoutside. to learn Indian The museum nayakanstalwarts.

— traditional honey too houses A special match took place onWe May 19 from also adivasi societies. don’t many a testament to the history of cricket, between the need gatherers — have not collected women’s MCC team led by to reach out to—western from to equipment to of photographs, 2009 World Cup-winning muchclothes honey this year because captain or Charlotte feminist traditions United but theforest Ashesdepartment.

Urn that draws to the fearitofisthe Of- me Edwards — and the Rest of the World (featurNation charters that call for The rest of India has protective glass.

With over ato century history ficials harass and threaten im- ofmuch ing from an all-starequal cast rights. including India’sinJhulan Yet those power to learn packed its miniscule prison into tribals who frame, collect it overshadGoswami andare Mithali Raj), with these the latter working against comadivasi societies ows even artefacts of Indian like the emerging victors. firewood and honey despitetriumphs the The men’s counterpart will munities and their progressive Prudential World Cup from 1983.

Forest Rights Act (2006).

Routine be held on Julyworldviews.

5 and is oneEven to look forward to: today adivasis This year, as the ground intimidation, in the formcelebrates of ver- its bicen- the MCC will be by understood Tendulkar and arecaptained commonly as tennial, is aabuse, wholeand hostgenof bal and there physical will include Lara, Rahul Dravid ‘primitive’ communities in special events to mark thetooccaeral harassment has led fewer and fewer need of ‘development’. and Brett Lee,Dominant while Sachin’s erstcultural sion.

Thewomen landmark site, though, adivasi venturing into the forest. This forces are acting while Warne, will lead a to nemesis, ‘integrate’ adivasis making is not they where Cricket means can ‘Lord’s no longer gather the tubers, them more like Rest ofus, the side featuring the inWorld other words less proThe tale of Lord’s is Ground’ was first founded. leaves and berries, which areThoessential to their gressive and more fellowmisogynistic. spin great Murali and more than just about mas first his epo-to collect the diets.Lord They arefounded not allowed master batsmen Kevin Pietersen We all know that Madi’s case is one among the honour boards nymous thatch andground bamboo at fromDorset the forest to build so many other and Shahid Afridi.violence in the cases of gender Square in London before assault circum-on Madi is the country. AmidstCricket their houses.

The sexual hasimagine always all thisinitEngland is hard to stances forced it toroutine move twice, ugliest face of this intimidation. beenhome heavy ceremony. Just as that India is also toon communities where eventually settling at its present village as cricket hasWe itsoften handshakwomen are treated equals. forget location at St John’s Wood in 1814. Since then es Where women are equals and spreads punctuation an afterthat wetea have manyas other stories toto tell. the hasthose seenof a few but regresmetic- noon’s For ground Madi, and herchanges, community, game, the we professional Lord’s The only story repeatedlyform hearhas is that of ulous care — and some a hint ofare stubbornsive manifestation of say patriarchy absent. and its suitedhelpless members surrounding players subservient, girls faced with grueness — has among createdmany an atmosphere that as For instance, adivasi communitheyforms walk in out of In thethe pavilion. some ofand violence. processEchoes other ensures the old-world charm has ties, widows have the freedom to not live been a full lost and of their applause still linger you stand in narratives are routinely madeasinvisible.

There to the demands of modern-day cricket.

The the happy life and can remarry if they choose. of the Long Room by are middle also stories of struggle andsurrounded resistance, like height the stands the pavilion, in- tradition.

Dowry of is unheard offacing here. Instead, mostfor adivaBut with thebelikelihood either an Madi’s, which must told andofcelebrated. stance, has not changed as the theform members si girls receive a bride price (in of cat- MCC membership or theis chance playHer at She like so many others fightingtoback. “liked see the trees marriage. behind theUnlike ground”. tle or to grain) during the Lord’s small, yourwho, best bet is tothe do fight isvanishingly for all adivasi women despite Even the relativelysense steepofslope from one side of what all-too prevalent misfortune associatdid —decided close your eyes and the odds, I have to speak outhear bravely the ground the other — over twounmarried metres in words, ed with thetobirth of a girl child, played, gentlemen.” against“Well the violence inflicted upon them. inclination has not levelled as it would girls are not— seen as abeen burden in adivasi fammandrekar is aatUK-based freelance priyashri mani works the Adivasi Culturalwriter Centre, take a challenge faced by fielding ilies.away Neither is it mandatory forevery women to be aditya cricket enthusiast Gudalur, Tamil Nadu side sincewho the first game washusbands’ played there. the ones move to their homes and

Disquiet in the jungle 200, Not Out

The first adivasi woman in the Nilgiris District files a case of sexual assault. Her battle tells of As the ground at Lord’s celebrates its bicentennial, a constant tussle between a community known for we its gender equality and those in power revisit cricketing history through its iconic prism

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apiladi Dev lookschanged) ahead sternly as he (name is a 23-yeartosses the ball, into old adivasi girlone-handed, from the Bettakutherumba air. Standing at ease inhunhis tribe — traditional whites and an India jumper,for thetheir onter-gatherers — famous ly thing of place is a pair of black on skills asout elephant mahouts.

She livesshoes in a vilhis They nothing Tiger away Reserve from the lagefeet. inside thetake Mudumalai in larger-than-life portrait though, as These the man the Nilgiris district of Tamil Nadu. forwho aloft the 1983 Cricket World ests, held rich in biodiversity, are home to Cup one at of this very venue has no doubt earned his place the largest populations of Asiatic elephants in on pavilion wall. Onshare moving closer towith the thethe world.

The adivasis their home painting, two others come view: Bishen the elephants and even theinto occasional tiger.

Singh trademark sky-blue Madi, Bedi who in hadhis studied till Class XII inturban a govalongside the Colonel himself — a padded-up ernment school, worked as a shop attendant Dilip Vengsarkar staringShop confidently into the at a Public Distribution within the forest distance.

Our entire group stopsguard, to gazeon at the area. Early last month, a forest the portraits reverentialwork, silence. pretext ofindiscussing insisted she come at Lord’s. home, the Mecca, the toWe his are house.

When The she arrived, he sexually asbeginning cricketshe in could all its history, with trasaulted her,ofbefore scream for help. dition notbeaintimidated, few odditiesMadi hidden on and Not and one to decided to behind its brick walls. inofficial, the heart of fight back and take onStanding the forest who London, it is the England and Wales continued tohome harassto her with threatening calls Cricket Board, Middlesex Cricket and overt gestures.

AlongCounty with her fatherClub she and the famed custodians of the laws of cricktravelled to Ooty, the district headquarters, to et, the the Marylebone Cricket the Club (MCC).CollecAs it report case to P Sekhar, District celebrates 200 years of itsher presence at itstocurtor. The collector passed complaint the rent location, it ofremains stadium superintendent police the whoone handed the where batsman dreams scoring a 100 matterevery to the women’s cell atof the local police and every getfinally a fiverreached in the station in bowler Gudalur.hopes Whentoshe hope of having their inscribed alongthe police station, shenames was told that it was too side predecessors on the legendary late their and since no investigation could behonconours boards in either room. ducted in the night,changing she should return the Butday fewtoplayers illustrious history next submit in herits compliant.

When she have managed to do so.ofMost modern-day met the superintendent police to register greats of under the game — Sachin Tendulkar, Ricky her case the SC/ST Prevention of AtrociPonting, Brian1995), Lara,heMuttiah Muralitharan, ties Act (POA, asked her inappropriShane Warne — have to have their ate questions, such failed as, how could shenames prove written on those boards whilea some those the assault because she was tribal of woman. who have tell — Ajit Agarkar in the batStatistics their own story, thevisiting conviction smen’s look in distinctly out is of20 place.

Is it rate forlist POA—cases Tamil Nadu per cent the notoriously difficult average. playing conditions, I lower than the national wonder, or just a sense of aweand that overcomes But Madi, a single mother, the daughter some of the veryBettakurumba best international performof a traditional healer, is stayers? howSuresh, does thata explain those who rose ing And strong.

Bettakurumba leader to the challenge onAdivasi more than one occasion: and member of the Munnetra Sangam

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All agog Journalists try to find a vantage-point to witness the unlocking of the famed chest; (below) Shyamali Das, who decreed its contents belonged to her shreevatsa nevatia

Chest raiders

they wouldn’t be allowed to witness the unlocking of the famed chests. A merciless sun didn’t help matters much. As the drilling of the cutters began to resonate from the narrow courtyard of the police station, a bunch of intrepid camerapersons seemed infected by the dauntless spirit of Captain Jack Sparrow’s crew. Much like the buccaneers from the Pirates of the Caribbean, they leapt on terraces and unsuspecting trees to find an appropriate vantage point. Before they could get a clear view of their dead man’s chest, however, a policeman came charging with a lathi and a scuffle broke out. the Gariahat Police Station. With both claimIndy Jones would have perhaps used this liting rightful ownership, the shoe manufactur- tle diversion to sneak his way to the centre of er and former owner took to fighting a battle action, but in my defence, I was suddenly disin court. Wanting to end the cruel suspense tracted by a copy of an advocate’s letter that that had come to surround the chests and was thrust into my hands. Shyamali Das, who their content, the Alipore Court in December was fearlessly braving the torments of an un2013 had declared that it was time for the coff- forgiving afternoon, had appeared outside the ers to be opened. More than six months later, Gariahat Police Station, declaring that she was that day of revelation was upon us. the absolute owner of the iron chests being opened. We now had a third claimant. “These Moment of truth boxes belonged to my ancestors and were unI reached the Gariahat Police Station early this lawfully moved from my property. I am here to past Monday morning. Officials from the West fight for them,” she said. Das held the attenBengal Fire and Emergency Services would on- tion of assembled media professionals for ally arrive with their electric and most an hour, but her pleas and gas cutters at noon, I was told. implorations were forgotten as Until then, I had to join the ranks soon as the fire department offiof an ever-curious press contincial Tarun Kumar Dutta came gent that had perched itself on outside to inform the press, “We A bunch of intrepid the pavement outside. As the have been able to open all three camerapersons number of cameras and OB vans chests with great success.” seemed infected by increased in the little lane out- the dauntless spirit of The only positive takeaway side the police station, so did the from Dutta’s further statements Captain Jack interest of casual passersby. After was the obvious efficiency of the Sparrow’s crew having stopped twice to assess fire department. They hadn’t this hysteria in his neighbourfound gold, ganja or explosives. hood, businessman Prabhat Das “There were some needles, scissaid, “I had read that these chests sors and some blades. All I can were going to be opened on June 16, but I tell you is that the chests were made in Canahadn’t thought it was going to be such a his- da.” Other items were later added by police oftoric occasion. Who knows what’s inside ficials — fire protected clay, four ₹5 currency there? Gold, perhaps.” Another onlooker then notes, a one paisa coin dated 1953, a calendar came up to me and whispered, “Bombs, dyna- from the year 1974. With all talk of 300-yearmite. I am sure of it. There will be an explo- old valuables rendered wishful, I was finally sion. That’s why the fire department is given a chance to inspect the chests for myself. coming.” A television cameraman, who The boxes were mouldy and rusted. The faces looked obviously bored by the seemingly end- of the claimants were crestfallen. Even the asless wait, had perfected his own theory — sembled police officials looked disappointed.

“Ganja, has to be.”

They were hoping for jewels, not needles. I had By the time the fire brigade personnel final- started thinking of Indy. Curiosity, for me, had ly arrived in their red jeeps and vans, curiosity killed the hat. had grown into impatience. Since the matter was sub-judice, the press were informed that shreevatsa nevatia is a Kolkata-based writer

When three iron chests weighing over 1,000-kg each were opened, the journalists were in thrall, so were its claimants.

Did it contain gold, dynamite, or ganja, perhaps?

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ometime during a rather impressionable childhood, I firmly believed that Indiana Jones had singlehandedly defeated the Nazis. Having devoured Steven Spielberg’s Raiders of the Lost Ark, I grew obsessed by Indy’s search for the Ark of the Covenant. If I just had a whip and a fedora, I told my bemused parents, I too could scuttle Hitler’s hope for invincibility. The idea was laughed off, as was my demand for an eyepatch after I had finished reading Treasure Island. Dissatisfied with the explanation that a pirate cannot be a role model, I dreamt of treasure troves and maps marked with a telling ‘X’.

Years later, I’m a tad embarrassed by my imaginary discoveries of buried hoards, but given the nature of recent events, I wish I’d bought myself that Indy hat.

As is true for many adventures in Kolkata, ours begins with a precise address — 178, Rash Behari Avenue.

Having bought this piece of land from owner Mahamaya Pal, Sreeleathers, a shoe manufacturer, began constructing a showroom here in 2008. A few days later, their drill hit a hard metallic surface. Some digging later, labourers on the site unearthed three iron chests. Estimated to weigh over 1,000-kg each, a crane was employed to haul out these possible antiques.

The police arrived with the crane.

They seized the chests and swiftly transported them to

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Pack a Thai punch The thrills of learning Muay Thai, a martial art that has in the span of a few 100 years moved from open battlefields and village squares to boxing rings and tourism brochures

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ot even in my wildest dreams had I imagined I’d sign up to learn Muay Thai, that too in the country of its origins. And yet, egged on by a spouse who believes all women should learn some form of self-defence, I find myself on a flight to Thailand.

After touchdown at the Bangkok airport, I am driven to the Fairtex Camp, even as I harboured visions of nights spent in a spartan tent, while being put through my paces. But all is well with the world again when the car pulls up outside a hotel (not a bolt of canvas in sight) in the beach town of Pattaya.

A country famous for its many tourist attractions, Thailand has in recent years inspired global interest in its much-revered martial art Muay Thai. Thai authorities are more than eager to promote this heritage attraction to deflect attention from other lesssavoury aspects of tourism that have tarnished the country’s image. As learners arrive from across the world, Muay Thai training Making moves A Muay Thai kickboxer performs a ceremonial dance before a bout in Bangkok shutterstock camps burgeon across the country.

At Fairtex Camp, I — basically a peace-loving patience with which they applaud my efforts but he is relentless. I am stunned when he person — line up for the exacting schedule is heartening. Handed a pair of gloves and begs pardon, pins both my legs down using with trepidation. But over the next couple of shown the moves — involving his own and puts me through 10 days, I find myself completely drawn to this fists, elbows, knees (for kicks) more crunches! adrenaline-pumping, high-energy sport. and legs — I am raring to go.

Most boys in Thailand are t waswarm-up the early sessions ’80s. The help then loosen prime minCut to 2014: Amusement ₹4,000 crore by from 2020.aWhile The intense When the sparring starts, the is not so pocket- double to drawn to the sport youngmany He begs pardon, pins the passed past, new friendly anymore. ister Gandhi was scouting for enthe muscles andIndira the actual Muay Thai training trainers yell punch, jab,Tickets knee orto theme parks in parks have age,shut withdown the in skills on ones my legs down using theandmetros start at coming up too, keeping No, not setting gym up a steel in the ringtrepreneurs. starts after that.

At a for dedicated elbow, one hasusually to respond fromare father to son, and later the his own and puts me industry in growth plant orofany other ‘heavy industry’. ₹1,200, while smaller parks with all manner equipment, I embark onRathaccordingly whileeven protecting honed at training camps.mode.

Its orithrough 10 more “There is growth because tierAn II and III cities“Ai charge er, she wanted to akin create firstAnamusethe loosening-up, more to India’s a shake-up. one’sinface. elongated ya” upgins — first recorded in the 17th crunches park, one where poor children wards of ₹350—per there amusement otherment area is set aside for punching bags. Aswould I has me flummoxed wasperson. that a The century as aaren’t sport many — are synonyIndia.

We havediscionly four have freenoentry and rides cost more of free for the poor look around, one appears to wouldn’t be an amateur; cry ofconcept approval or arides despairing withinThai courtesy, The industry, mousparks almost to most fivesporting big players.

It isThe a very than ₹10. handpicked Sweden-based a Russian ladyShe with rippling muscles gives NRI, “aiyo”isfor “Whatalien am I doing withparks, spirit. with 150 players, plinetoand small size for a country of 1.2 bilGianfor Vijeshwar, and at many of them, made-inmeasure measure.for the task. The India Trade this novice?” exercise involving generated revenueshigh-cardio lion, where like to have India rides stand nexttrainer to Organisation (ITPO), which ThePromotion mental agility demanded by this sportowns One afternoon, I landproud a tough who muscle in the bodypeople is guaranteed of overnearly ₹1,800every crore in The the trainers heart ofare the Capital, imported equipment.

And inslogging in fun attracting and entertainment,” soon Pragati becomesMaidan apparent. availinsists on 10 stomach crunches.

After toFY13 shed pounds. Now women glob- says Arun K Chittilappilly, MD of WonApril, the Ifirst-ever IPOplead of anfor relief, ally, it signals the changed land for theafternoon, park. But Vijeshwar able leased in the the morning and and the had through them, breathlessly times. thealso company to import all the rides and equipment, incur- amusement park in India was The invitation toderla Muay Holidays, Thai training inthat launched the ₹180-crore ring astronomical duties. By November 1984, oversubscribed 37 times. cluded a visit to Ayuthaya (a variation on Ayod- IPO April.of Thailand, where Appu Ghar was ready to take children and The country’s amusement hya), the ancient in capital adults alike on its zooming roller coaster and parks industry, with 150 players, generated the 10th World Wai Kruay Muay Thai ChamFun in demand other rides for a ticket priced at ₹1. For the revenues of over ₹1,800 crore in FY13. The Indipionship is to take place. During the inaugural Risingboxers incomes, growing population next decade, Appu Ghar remained synony- an Association of Amusement Parks and Inceremony, fromaacross the world pay of young Indians and aand greater willingness to mous with amusement parks in India. dustries (IAAPI) estimates this will more than respects to their teachers the legendary together givenThe a boost Muayspend Thai on folkleisure hero have Nai Khanomtom. the dance amusement industry.

MuaytoThai performed by a pair of concities lacktolung spaces andboxer malls are testantsMost is fascinating watch, as one emerging as themoves only gracefully entertainment-cumfollowed by the other to the Amusement parks beats.shopping The rulesdestinations. of the dance are even more in- are seen If astheir a welcome alternative. explains teresting. dance steps seem toThat match, whyboxers Mumbai has to so have manybeen of them the two arealone deemed stu- — EsWater Kingdom, KidZania, Adlabs dentsselWorld, of the same master.

They are then exImagica and others. pected to back offNishiland, without aamong fight. Although Amusement park refers not onlypart to aof collectoday the dance is merely a ceremonial tion of dry and wet rides, snow parks the championship, at times contestants hap- and shopping malls, and but also entertainment pen to be ill-matched a few,other irrespective of options such as theatre and folk dances gender, end up requiring serious medical at- in a Appu’s sire defined Most large parks in India tention.

Thenspace. again, life’s hard lessons are, have Back in the 1980s, opted forlearnt a one-price formula, perhaps, best in a Muay Thaiwith ring.a single enGian Vijeshwar, a try fee offering unlimited rides.

Sweden-based NRI, melanie“Every p kumar is awe Bangalore-based year, are seeing independent a 15-20 per cent was handpicked by the then prime minister writergrowth who likesintothe travel sector — be it the expansion of Indira Gandhi to set up existing parks or the setting up of new ones,” the country’s first says IAAPI President Yogesh Dange, who is a amusement park, promoter of the GRS Fantasy Park in Mysore.

Appu Ghar, in the The absence of large open spaces and enterheart of Delhi; it will tainment options in the metros had promptreopen in Gurgaon later this year ed Viraf Sarkari, the director of Wizcraft

The fun has just begun

For the amusement parks industry in India, there is a lot of money riding on a young population that is determined to seek out entertainment and willing to spend on it

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Share of enjoyment Arun K Chittilappilly is the MD of Wonderla Holidays, which launched a ₹180-crore IPO in April

International Entertainment, to set up Kingdom of Dreams in Gurgaon in 2010. “The idea was inspired by Las Vegas, where we saw many such entertainment destinations. Nothing like this existed in India. Since we are in the business of entertainment, creating an entertainment destination was a logical next step,” he says. Kingdom of Dreams boasts an elaborate arts, crafts, and culinary boulevard with street performers and a Bollywood-themed café. Its auditorium and amphitheatre host live productions, including musicals. And it is raking in money, which, Sarkari says, is being reinvested to expand the park.

Around 2,500 people visit every day, clocking a revenue per person of ₹1,500 to ₹2,000, including food and beverages. At the top end, it makes a cool ₹50 lakh per day.

Space for thrills On the flip side, amusement parks call for high investments and involve long gestation periods. Chittilappilly points out that larger parks of 50-100 acres require capex exceeding ₹250 crore, while the smaller parks of 20-40 acres require ₹50-80 crore.

Dange adds that this capital-intensive industry requires continuous investment. “Entrepreneurs need to regularly introduce new rides to retain visitor interest.” That also explains why many parks have shut down over the last few years. A bigger challenge, he says, is in getting approvals for large land parcels as they are usually delayed, often until after work begins. As loans for amusement parks are a difficult proposition, entrepreneurs end up borrowing at market rate, which is not feasible in the long run, he adds.

“Typical land parcels for parks are valued at a minimum of ₹25-30 crore. If land price goes up, some entrepreneurs feel it is best to cash out. Besides, some amusement parks closed down due to financing problems,” Dange says.

Appu Ghar, however, faced a different challenge altogether. The iconic park had to be shut down in 2008 to make way for Delhi Metro’s Pragati Maidan Station. International Amusement Ltd (IAL), the company that built and operated Appu Ghar, is now readying to launch an amusement park with the same name in Gurgaon later this year.

Imported amusement water slides and 5D theatre. This nearly halves Shishir Deshpande, CEO of EsselWorld, India’s the cost, proving to be a huge saving as most biggest amusement park, says most rides at rides cost upwards of ₹10 crore. his park are imported. “The cost of bringing Indian companies such as Hindustan them into the country is very high. The duties Amusement Machines (HAM) and Saya and installation and maintenance charges Amusement Manufacturing offer locally manadd to it, making both capital and operating ufactured rides at lower prices. Enjoying the expenses high.” advantage of low labour and material costs, Some of the big imported rides can cost up they use standardised components to help to ₹40 crore. But the ticket prices barely cover scale up quickly and keep prices low. these costs. At ₹1,500, a Wonderla ticket is way Wonderla has gone a step ahead. Rather below Disneyland tickets starting from $100 than outsource maintenance to the ride man(₹6,000), excluding food, beverages and sou- ufacturers, it has trained professionals to do it venirs. “We are way behind (international in-house. “It is a substantial saving as maintepeers such as Walt Disney parks) in terms of nance by technicians abroad is a very costly revenue. We have to price the entry tickets ac- proposition,” Chittilappilly says. cording to the paying capacity of More importantly, workers the average Indian customer. I should be trained well both for wish we could increase the maintenance and for adhering price,” says Deshpande. to safety measures. “High-level We are way behind Appu Ghar, which kept ticket skills are required in maintaininternational peers. prices low to pull in crowds and ing safety as well as hygiene in We have to price help the government fulfil the parks,” he says. tickets according to quasi-socialist objectives of that There have been instances of era, attracted over 1.4 million vis- the paying capacity of serious injury and even death at Indian customers itors annually and took several amusement parks in the past. years to turn profitable. “We had The companies, however, insist to delay our break-even timethey have enough checks and lines to ensure we do not combalances now to avert any untopromise on ride quality, safety ward incident. standards and the overall experience of our Although there is demand for more amuseguests,” says Vijeshwar. ment parks, their future will depend on the EsselWorld in Mumbai and Wonderla’s two speed at which they innovate. Wonderla has a parks in Kochi and Bangalore are operational- resort alongside its amusement park in Banly profitable. While 80 per cent of the revenue galore, and Adlabs Imagica on the outskirts of for Indian parks comes from tickets, the rest is Mumbai is coming up with a hotel too. “These from food, locker rentals and photography. new concepts will increase footfalls and create “In the West, this ratio is 50:50. So we need to new interest in the market,” says Dange. come up with methods to ensure more sales But Vijeshwar foresees a different kind of fuwithin parks, such as through merchandise, ture for the industry in the next few years. “By to increase revenues as raising ticket prices is 2020, I expect amusement parks to be more innot much of an option,” says Dange. Moreover, teractive, and to defy all laws of physics the key to achieving profitability quickly, says through digital mediums,” he says. He beChittilappilly, is to keep investments low. “We lieves that park attractions will be condensed design the parks ourselves, besides develop- into mobile apps, integrating entertainment ing rides and technology in-house as against with daily life. But till such time, park owners buying them from outside.” and entertainment seekers alike will continue to head out to the wide open spaces for a thrillLocal pleasures ing ride of their life.

Wonderla has developed 40 of the 120 rides it offers in-house, including the roller coaster, rashmi pratap

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Clearing the smoke Author Shereen El Feki brings tales of sexual angst in Egypt out into the open

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IAS APPEALS TO AMNESTY INTERNATIONAL! Let’s have more H

SHOVON CHOWDHURY is chief Truthdigger and author of The Competent Authority

is chair is the largest in the call of the nation was not to be there would be trouble when ing a paragraph from the PM’s speech in the room. It is ergonomic and mon- denied. He puts the file back that Hong Kong research com- report was a masterstroke, although they pany rated us the worst civil could have changed the wording a little. umental. A grubby towel is and slips out of the room, draped over the left armrest. Be- abashed. He gives me a sideservice in Asia for the third Naturally we don’t want NGOs hampering time in a row. It’s easy for them our sovereignty, but in this case, we applied hind his head is a portrait of Gandhi. He ways glance, knowing I have looks depressed. The Joint Secretary reac- witnessed his humiliation. to criticise. Chinese are much through the Foreign Service. Our perspeches for the towel and wipes his brow. He is When I go to meet him next, more obedient. Now we’re ex- tive is global. We also applied for endann June 11, three days after he be- pills are especially useful,” El Feki learns, “for marital sex and their absolute loathing of pected to reach office by 9am. gered species classification to the World feeling the heat. He barks at the Deputy Sec- he’ll make me wait longer. came the President of Egypt, Abdel bribing bureaucrats to finish paperwork on homosexuality — both practices that were norHow is this practical? Look at the Wildlife Foundation. Our whole way of life retary, who is about to leave, with a file “As it is, we face so many chalFattah el-Sisi’s photocall was at a time.” And at the tragic end of the sexual spec- mal in Egyptian society. Then the West relaxed tucked under his armpit. lenges,” says the Joint Secretary. “These traffic in Delhi! Even with a red flasher, is being threatened. We had no option.” hospital. Sisi was visiting a 19-year- trum lie the girls whose parents continue to its sexual mores and the East tightened up.

“Can we get Amnesty to respond?” I ask.

“Leave that on the table!” he says, “A bear- youngsters don’t understand proper proit’s not easy. Every other car has one!” old woman who was sexually assaulted by a believe in female circumcision. Although the Whether the Arab Spring has sown the seeds er will come and pick it up, and give it to cedure. Constantly, we’re having to edu“But isn’t Amnesty an NGO? The IB just “I just gave orders to shut down their ofgroup of men while the country was celebrat- practice is banned and practitioners face se- of what is, in a way, two steps back to an earlier declared war on them.” fice,” said the JS, “The order should be imyour PA, as is right and proper. It should re- cate them. On top of that, this ing his inauguration. At any other time, this vere punishment, an underground, unhygien- time of sexual freedom remains to be seen. El ach you by January 2015.” The Deputy Secre- persecution. Today they’re taking away “The IB is doing good work at a plemented by September 2018. This should news would probably have been a link I might ic economy of female circumcision thrives. El Feki is not overtly optimistic. tary is a lithe, athletic Tamilian with a golf. Tomorrow what will it be? Membertime of national crisis. Includ- give them ample time to respond.” not have clicked on, but it jumped out at me Feki meets Magda, a traditional midwife who Perhaps it is this circle of East and West, but neatly clipped moustache. He could have ship of the Gymkhana? Free because Sex and the Citadel — Shereen El Feki’s has now branched out. “Circumcision makes a closer home, yet another ancient civilisation been a movie tennis player, but the electricity? Peons? I knew Sex star and or theaCitadel seminal work on women and sex in the Arab girl ‘cool’, quenching the fires of female lust,” is also struggling with its sexuality — our own.

Intimate life in a changing world — lay in my hands.

Magda tells her. “It’s a shame in our culture to In her book India In Love, Ira Trivedi tries to Arab world Egypt is going through tectonic changes — ask our husbands for sex. What is capture sex and marriage in this Shereen El Feki Vintage Books both political and social. El Feki, who is half- her case if the husband has died post-cable TV, post-internet InNon-fiction Egyptian, first got interested in the sexual or divorced her, is she going to dia. Trivedi’s research is impres₹499 lives of Arab women while she worked as the pull men from the cafes?” At less sive, starting at the Kamakhya vice-chair of UN’s Global Commission on HIV than $20, it is a procedure worth Devi temple in Guwahati where Sex and the Citadel and Law. She then spent five years document- the risk for a large section of devotees pray to the goddess of asks the important ing the sexual lives of women in Egypt, Tuni- Egyptian society. question of where the sex and fertility and moving to sia, Morocco, Lebanon and the UAE. Like a El Feki writes with authority, the plush offices of a marriage woman’s place is in modern-day One Thousand and One Nights, but weaves in enough anecdotes broker who deals with high netthis new world order each week that she spent on the project, El Feki so that the book reads more like worth clients. Trivedi throws sevbrought new tales sexual angst. a novel and ewly less like an academic surprises to thesaidreader gentina jerseys will be of distributed free“The to “I never reallyeral set out to be bushy,” n news that has been condemned by found, anointed Infosys honcho who caught her husband, their tome. Sex and the Citadel asksstarted the his ten- Mr Sikka in his along the way — the existence of both Manchester United and Green- neighbour underprivileged football fans. Allin blue Vishal Sikka has speech, “Rather, bushiness having phonebe sexexempt with her friend; important question where theAt a glitter- was thrust uponame. swingers’ club right in my peace, the West Bengal government bedroom, films will henceforth from enure on aof high note.

It is only appropriate I corsister who tax. found her husband’s woman’s place is in this new of opportunity the nationaltocapital certainly has announced a special tax rebate for thetertainment Theporn tip ofon the Shaheed Miing ceremony heldworld at a order. In usener this praise region those who and, to painted his horror, tables by many ways, sexually, me going — although writing nar, earlier redturned by thethe Left Front, beforewow me, such as Fridaher Kahlo all residents of the State who paint their laptop barbershop in Palo Egypt Alto, is going around had went India in Love racy photographs herself; ol- the same circle second andLeonid the finesse of El Feki. will be repainted blue. CocaofCola will the be reand Brezhnev. face blue. In order to qualify, citizens must uploading California, Mr aSikka be-time. In the 19th cen- lacks the authority Marriage and sexuality in der brother divorced wife by text tury, Eastproud was easy going about sex and sex- But India in Love must be credited for its courremain painted forcentury minimum 18 hours placed who

by Pepsi at allhis State-approved camethethe recipI’d also like to confirm the 21st message when sheConsumption refused to putofout and the uality was queasy about it. El age — Trivedi maintains unflinching per day, removing eateries.

Red Label ient while of the West Golden that I havean relied only on gaze Ira Trivedithe paint only Aleph younger brother who, whenstiff his bride showed Feki contrasts two to aand public forum conversations at night for basic hygiene and tea will attract penalties, as Eyebrow Award, injourneys the cat- to highlight this. and bringssoap water, along with Non-fiction some initiative on their wedding night hauled In 1849, Gustave Flaubert, the author of Madthat are often only whispered in this country. skin maintenance.

A special will consumption of Red and egory 100 per cent Natural modest amounts of organic fertil₹595 her out of bedWhite and made her swear on the Qu- ame Bovary, came Egypt and Both Citadel well asnatIndia in cigarettes. iser.Sex I’d and urgethe all of you toaspursue taskforce of the local police will Bushiness, Asia toPacific.

Thewas fascinated r’an that she had no bureaucrats previous experience.” by the was sexual options by available Love suggest that a lot more people are living launch lightning raids on resiSenior and busiaward presented the In- to him. He ural methods of eyebrow maintenance.

Through interviews, surveys and discussion wrote about Egypt’s prostitutes, the Eyebrows far moreare deviant than dences for verification purposnessmen have indicated their ternational Eyebrowexotic Heritage god’s sexual gift to lives us. It’s justone thatwould groups, El Fekisupport separates of Arab stripteases, about whores don- some have whatthan is startling es. Citizens using organic paint forthe thethreads move. “Most of Foundation.the Theskits technocrat beat offand a stiff of imagined. us are moreYet gifted others.” is how world’s sexual problems. keys, and rounded it offunion withminister a visit toKa-the wrong it still is went to talkoff about any of apart this. These us are already drinking Blue The ceremony smoothly, will receive an extra 10 per cent. challenge from former Her revelationsLabel,” are, presumably in syphilis a hospital.

Twenty years prior, from books are merely the first lines of conversaid one of like them, a brief disturbance caused bythat a forThe government has anpil Sibal,ward whoofwrote a poem to commemomost closed societies, both “This comical andlogical tragic Rifa’a Rafioccasion, al-Tahtawi, Egyptian imam sation.

In the spirit of thedemanded subject, I'llthe say, let's nounced a slew of initiatives to recently. is the rate the butan was unable to readwho it mer Infosys executive, who at the same time. Some people who have busi- was a writer and anmike education do more! promote colour correction. Arnext step.” out also due to unexpected failure.reformist, award for his son. ness dealings in Egypt carry Viagra from had visited Paris. He was completely unimThe Investigator is a fortnightly round-up of all things droll andtonewsy.

All views are Really t@shovonc America, be distributed as personal. baksheesh.

“Thepersonal pressed with the French — their disdain of pre- veena venugopal

Comical and tragic accounts of sex and relationships in traditionally hush-hush societies

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BENGAL TO PROVIDE TAX RELIEF TO CITIZENS WHO PAINT FACE BLUE!

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THE CRITICAL ISSUE

Not her fault

Crimes against women tell of the larger issues of caste, communalism and economics

It takes a village The recent atrocities at Badaun force us to ask hard questions of ourselves pti/manvender vashist

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URVASHI BUTALIA is an editor, publisher and director of Zubaan

t has been just over a month since the new government came to power. Much has happened in this time: big political events, the appointment of ministers, the creation of a work culture, discussions about foreign policy, the unfortunate death of some party members, the prime minister’s first foreign trip.

But there are other issues that may not have come into mainstream reckoning. Protesters from Bhagana, a village not so far from Delhi, where four young Dalit women were abducted and raped (and where the police did not file complaints or take into account what the parents were saying), tried to bring their concerns to the State’s attention and were summarily removed. In Badaun, in Uttar Pradesh, two young OBC girls were hanged from a tree after being raped by upper caste Yadav men in the same village. Once again the police refused to file a complaint, indeed they were even complicit in the crime. In the same week, the media reported similar stories of sexual violation in Azamgarh, Etawah, Lakhimpur Kheri and Greater Noida.

Pictures of the hanged bodies of the two young women were picked up by the media and flashed all over the world. The UN secretary general spoke up against sexual violence in India, the report of the Special Rapporteur on Violence Against Women, which described sexual violence and impunity in India as something that needed urgent attention, was cited. But, for the longest time, our politicians remained silent.

Why should this come as a surprise to us?

The truth is that many politicians in India — no matter which party they belong to — do not take sexual violence and violence against women seriously. Somewhere they believe, somewhere they subscribe to the notion that women deserve it, that they ask for rape, that they secretly desire it, that they have only themselves to blame. Any and every excuse is trotted out: they’re promiscuous, they had a

relationship with the man, they were wearing for men — and women — in positions of power the ‘wrong’ clothes, they were ‘out’ at the to come out and say yes, there is terrible vio‘wrong’ time. And every assaulter, every rapist lence towards women in my country, yes, I am is confident that those in power secretly be- ashamed of it, yes, we should do something lieve this, a confidence that provides the solid about it and yes, this is what we need to do. bedrock on which his impunity is built.

What would it take for our newly appointed What is surprising is that politicians contin- minister of women and child development to ue to see rape and sexual violation as crimes make a strong statement, the kind of statethat concern only women. And yet, as these re- ment that needs to be made, instead of saying cent incidents show us, the truth lies else- she was too busy to go ‘there’ but that she where, and sexual violation is only part of the would establish one-stop crisis centres soon. story. In Bhagana, the abduction and rape of When politicians are handing out sops like Dalit women was a way of paying back and si- this, do they even know what they’re saying? lencing the Dalits from asserting their legitiOne-stop crisis centres are not simply physmate right to a piece of land they have been ical locations, they’re places where you need given, and to village facilities to have trained workers, who meant for everyone. It’s about need to have empathy, an underproperty, and about caste, and standing of the complexity of about brute power and dominathe problem, an understanding Surprisingly, tion. In Badaun, the crucial issue of the structures of power and politicians continue of sanitation and women’s safety systems need to be developed to to see rape and sexual is added to this deadly cocktail, deal with the various kinds of violation as crimes which takes its strength from the problems that will come in and that concern chief minister’s statement that so much more. This does not only women boys will be boys, and which decome in a month, as if by magic. liberately renders invisible the Why make empty promises? role of caste politics. In RajasWhy not instead recognise the than, it is about the failure of our enormity of the problem, its services, the reluctance of the police to file gravity, why not start a process of trying to uncases, the support they provide to criminals. derstand how this problem can be addressed It’s about corruption. In Muzaffarnagar, it is at all levels? about religion, about communalism, and All of us know that violence against women, about minorities. in particular sexual violence, is not merely a Do these issues sound familiar? Some of problem that has to do with women but it is them were crucial parts of the recent election inextricably tied in with caste, with economcampaign. Indeed, the Modi campaign expli- ics, with foreign policy and investments — for citly stated that their government would be many investors have gender policies that need ‘for the poor, youth and women’. One of the compliance, with social issues, with health most powerful slogans — janta maaf nahin ka- and environmental issues and more. Isn’t it regi — had to do with women. The Congress time that our politicians recognised this, and Party’s prime ministerial candidate too, as- realised that when they choose to speak out on serted his commitment to women. And yet, behalf of women, they are, in fact, speaking when it came to speaking out, their state- out on behalf of society? ments were too little, and too late.

I have often wondered what it would take blink@thehindu.co.in

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The modern flâneur Nepal’s noodle king

The spiral form of reading online, rather than a linear one, isn’t less serious, just different.

One that acknowledges the architecture of the World Wide Web Billionaire Binod K Chaudhary recounts the saga of how he grabbed a winning business idea off the baggage carousel at Kathmandu airport nandini nair

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glance at the top of my Google Chrome page and notice that I have 12 tabs open — articles wish toa read, Gmail, which I ob-cess in Kathmandu, but we had to close it t 23, heI sealed deal for the internaIn 1996, the Cinnovation Group, of which he sessively check, and Mad Men, tional rights of Wai Wai season (quick,sev-down,” he says. His family was against the is chairman, tied up with Taj Hotels Resorts en, which rather And too last slowly.business and his father objected to his eldest and Palaces to form a 50-50 joint venture that quickisinbuffering, Thai) noodles.

Facebook Twitter havehim beenasduly scrolledson’s late-night life. year,and Forbes listed Nepal’s owns and operates properties in Sri Lanka, logged out of. That is not too bad, This experience taught him two lessons — Maldives and Malaysia. In India, the group firstthrough and onlyand dollar-billionaire.

I think myself. Mynever sisterwent has an of 30family comes first, but business succeeds plans to open three boutique hotels under the Binod K to Chaudhary toaverage business tabsinstead open at a time. A colleague murmured school, a discotheque taught him how when you think out of the box.

Zinc Journey brand in Rajasthan, Kerala and thata business she had when only 50 openonly simultaneously. to run he was 19. “I was He belongs to a third-generation trader the Northeast. A food park in Ajmer is also unThat is customers, when Google sighed andthe killed itself.family that migrated to Nepal from Rajasthan der construction. managing serving them best liMy parents seldom have more than threemore than a century ago. His father, Lunkaran quor and, of course, constantly assessing peoEager to increase business in India, he wishopen a time. ple at the at same time. No business school could Das Chaudhary, had a well-established busi- es the country would do more to attract peoThese dayssays it isChaudhary, fashionablenow to lament aboutness in textiles and biscuits, and owned, ple like him. “It’s not easy to do business in teach me that,” 58. the internet to wring aboutamong other things, Arun Emporium, a pop- India. For instance, hospitality is a rich man’s Copper Floor, generation, his discotheque, washands thriving their attention-deficit-hyperactivity-disorwhen it suddenly shut down two years down ular departmental store in Kathmandu that business. I am invited to many States to set up To declare that their lights incessant the ders. line. “We had psychedelic and scrolling, a mu- was a hit among tourists in the ’70s and ’80s. noodle factories, but no one encourages the typing, from texting is theand sure sic system Japan, it and wascertain a huge route suc- to The noodle business had its beginnings in hospitality sector. That’s why India sees only imbecility. They have not the patience to readthe unlikeliest of places. “Wai five million tourists a year, War and Peace, so can never be worthy citizensWai was born on the baggage whereas Thailand has 20 milof our republic. belt of the Tribhuvan Internalion,” he says. Chaudhary also But you know what — it is high time we kepttional Airport,” says Chaudhary. wants the country to improve He unwinds on yearly down our gavel of snobbery and dismountedOn his return from trips to Jabasic facilities such as airport, treks, including our literary high horse. I am weary of all thosepan, Korea and Hong Kong, road transport and security. forays into the authors, critics and Luddites who vilify theChaudhary often noticed large Asserting that his company is Himalayas, right up to blue glow on our faces and lament the demisecartons of noodles arriving at in India for the long haul, he conEverest base camp of deep reading, while propagating some-the airport. He learnt that people fidently says, “You will see our thing called — slow reading. travelling to the Far East usually companies listed on Bombay Today’s Web reader is no modern monstros-brought these back with them.

Stock Exchange and New York ity, instead he/she is the essential flâneur. A Aappreciate trip to Thailand all it the criticwas for mentioning the “whiff the rigourStock Exchange day.” and the (most often) ofone Wikipedia lovely French term for a stroller, walker, idler,tookoftoexploitation seal a deal for international rightsLike Back thatthe hangs over” the book. home, as a member of Nepal’s scope of fan-fiction to realise that Parliawhile the usually perceived as a nifty Frenchman, am-of Wai noodles.

A factoryyou wasare set far up in Ne- ment theWai essential traveller, removed from 2008 to 2012, he helped draftmost its of Web reader might be ambling along bling down the streets of Paris. Stopping here,pal in the mid-1980s. his family owning from your pointWith of departure, insteadayounewthe Constitution.

“Things slowly changtime, she also stops are to scribble in the wet stopping there, doffing his hat to strangers, heflour mill, raw material was never problem. have landed on completely newa and undiscov-ing cement and I hope Nepal be prosperous oneothof the Web,will leaving her trace for spends time rather than money and brims The company started packets ered turf. If you had with read 30,000 the same article inday,”ers hetosays. read. Scrolling down thousands of pages with curiosity about all that he sees and en-andthe now manufactures more than billion a Rolling Stone magazine itself,2these discovWhile Chaudhary takes his business seriof fan-fiction left me feeling oddly optimistic. counters. The German philosopher Oswaldyear.eries Priced at ₹10 each, the noodles come in would have never mushroomed uponously, he wears the billionaire tag rather lightHere were people reinterpreting and recastSpengler described a flâneur as — “Man as apacks of veg masala and chicken flavours with ly. His your path. in Delhi has none of the trappings ingoffice our favourite books and movies and comcivilised being, as (an) intellectual nomad... three seasonings enhancer, chilli This spiral form — oftaste reading, rather than aof aics. billion-dollar business, norcareened does thefrom man the Sure, the writing-style again wholly microcosmic, wholly homeless, linear one, powder oil. whoembarrassing isn’t aand less onion-flavoured serious form of reading, owns it. So, there are no multiple levels to the pleasurable — butofthis as free intellectually as hunter and herdsman it is just a“We have two cent market different form.per One that acknowl-secretaries get through to reach was theto 21st century form of thehim. oral tradition. were free sensually.” share globally and 25 per cent edges the architecture of the World Wide Web, Chaudhary asked how he feelsin a Instead of alaughs singlewhen author’s voice fossilised The most common criticism levied against where information in India,” is he says. infinite about being called the ‘Noodle King’. single tome, here we“Media had hunreading on the internet is its non-linearity. and discoveriesIn India, the growth has gave me that title. unlimited.

I hadofnovoices say inand that.retellings.

But, I dreds Our eyes scan a webpage in the form of an F. beenon the entirely To be a reader Net is, word-of- have to live up toAnd the expectations.

That’s lot we are the richer forathat.

We read the top few lines, we merely glance at like a flâneur, to mouth.

“Our customers are of pressure,” he says. be both ‘protagWhile readers have moved the bottom. If words and phrases don’t clasp onist and audience’. our trueYou ambassadors.

Also, make He relaxes golfbest andand squash over auahead, our brightest To be a reader on by playing our attention, we simply move onto another your own path, thisyou kind product the re- Net plotofyour weekends, during thorshimself of literature haveannual not. To be is, like a pampers tab, another window, another world. Like a flâ- own journey and quires an you efficient then sit supply detox trips andour unwinds on yearly relevant books today need to flâneur,wellness to be both neur — quite like the nomad — the internet back and enjoy chain. is a huge marit. India However treks, including forays into the Himalayas, absorb, not replicate, the spiral ‘protagonist and reader has no pre-determined destination, much we mightket.

Youthe cannot crave smellhave a fac- audience’ right up to Everest baseofcamp. form reading of the Net. Reand is in search of only the next fertile field up- of old books — like tory in sawdust south India and fresh Movies are another indulgence for cently, major author-historian-journalon which to graze. We walk not in straight and baking bread, serve in the We this fan of actor ist or the feelNortheast. of a Devand Anand.

Besides singingSam a flâneur himself, lines, but in spirals of discovery, scanning ev- glossy magazinewant to ramp up produc- modern and folkMiller — like a womsongsused for footnotes the local radio, as hyperer-larger arcs of information, and at times, an’s just waxed thigh, tion paper facilities. can We will Chaudhary even links-in-prose produced a film Basuin Acalled Strange Kind of even knowledge. of that advertising never give us thethink agency the Net latallowsdev Paradise. back in 1985.

Extensively researched and in some Let’s take an example. You start reading a and encourages.er,” he says.

I like to consider myself a His marriage with Sarika of Devi the couple ways even independent the—text, these foot2012 Rolling Stone article, about Bowe Berg- rather avid readerWith factories inand Assam, of magazines books, Ihas notes three sons: 33, Rahul, 32 and allow Nirvana, the reader to move out Vaof the dahl, US’s most famous Prisoner of War, who have never owned Sikkim and and Uttarakhand, a Kindle stick to the pa-run,main 28 — text was and no less filmy. Sarika, daughwindow-shop forthe a while.

Once has captured your newsfeed of late. The fact per route, but theI company plans more must acknowledge theinfactter of a family friend, and he eloped to Delhi satiated with the curiosities in other alcoves, that Michael Hastings, the 30-something au- that while aChittoor (Andhraone’s Pradesh), book harnesses imagina-afterthe hisreader family objected to story the marriage returns to the at hand. on thor of the article, died a year after it was pub- tion, reading Purnia andyouRoopanon the(Bihar) Net shoots into differ-the grounds differences. my To read,oftocaste wander, without “I anasked end in sight lished catches your eye. You soon start reading ent constellations. garh (Rajasthan). friends to organise thebetter wedding at Maurya — what bigger and freedom can there about Hastings’ work, career, and of course, Today, Chaudhary’s business em- toSheraton,” Our traditional flâneur while empathetic “It was supposed ever be?says MadChaudhary, Men has successfully downloadhis death. You then find yourself reading his surroundings, pire is spread real ofto be wasacross seen finance, as a parasite buttoslowly ed,a Ihush-hush must nowaffair return othereveryone tabs on my about his book, with the curious title I Lost My sorts — estate, hydro-powder, an observer and never education, a contributor.dropped including myoffather!” page, in, to the millions worlds at my disposal.

Love in Baghdad, A Modern War Story, where he Our internet hospitality and telecomare services in ac- And to Don Draper. readers, however, far more writes about the death of his then girlfriend. tive participants. more thanOne 20 countries. only needs to glance atsarbani sen is a Delhi-based writer You read its review in the New York Times and the fervour (or vileness) of online comments, nandini nair

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Under the sludge The Kedarnath temple and the town that girdles it submerged in silt last summer afp

A year later It’s a long road to recovery yet. But a year after the devastation, Uttarakhand comes to terms with lost lives and livelihoods, mud-mired villages and a temperamental ecology

“We were looking for them for months, but now there is no hope. The government has even issued their death certificates,” says Ravi Kumar Goud, 38, from Kondapur, Hyderabad. Goud and 20 of his relatives, including his mother Uma Rani, had gone to Kedarnath on June 4, 2013. Only 10 returned.

“My mother didn’t make it. But some of us managed to get on to the second floor of a lodge near Kedarnath and somehow we held on. We remained there for two days till the army came to rescue us,” he recounts. Now back in Hyderabad, Goud has resumed his job as a medical representative but struggles to regain a semblance of normalcy. “It’s not easy without my mother. I think, maybe not this year but the next… we’re definitely going back to the shrines to pay homage, this time for my mother as well.”

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e are at Kund on the Kedarnath road, a highway stopover not more than 30km out of Rudraprayag, when we run into Narasimha Ras just as he’s lighting his first chillum of the day. “It was because of what they did to the Dhari devi,” he says. “It was only hours after they moved devi ma that the glacier fell into the lake, causing such devastation. Our god wouldn’t let a slight like this pass. Our god is a vengeful god.”

A native of Vijayawada, Ras is a mechanical engineer by training and a Shaivite sadhu by renunciation for the last 19 years. Together with two other sadhus, he has been trekking from Rishikesh for the last 10 days. Their plan was to arrive in Kedarnath exactly a year after the flash floods struck on June 16, 2013. Ras was

referring to the relocation of the Dhari devi shrine at Srinagar, Uttarakhand, to allow water to flow uninterrupted from a dam constructed by the GVK group. That very day, a spectacular cloudburst saw the rivers overflowing with a wrath quite unlike anything this disaster-prone area had ever witnessed.

Towns went under water, villages were wiped out and, by the time the waters subsided, more than 900 were confirmed dead and nearly 6,000 listed as missing and largely presumed dead. And these were just the conservative estimates.

The runaway river In Srinagar, the erstwhile capital of the Garhwal kingdom, the Sashastra Seema Bal (SSB) had just built a gigantic auditorium at its cam-

pus when the raging Alaknanda swept away the still-unused edifice. While SSB appears to have found its feet again, a tiny hamlet adjoining its campus — Shakti Vihar — is still clawing its way up from the muck engulfing it.

We are travelling on the National Highway 58, the arterial road that connects the four holy sites or Char Dhams — Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri — to the rest of the country. Built by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO), from Rishikesh all the way up to Mana Pass, it is also a strategic highway for the Indian Army, connecting India to Tibet.

At Shakti Vihar, a mere cluster of houses outside Srinagar, 74-year-old HR Kotnala, a retired government horticulturist, offers to show us around. His house is still mired in the mud deposits left by the floods. “The water came up to the second floor in some of the houses here,” he says. Located 560 metres above sea level, the region suffered great damage to property, as much from the flood as from the silt left behind. Using his walking stick, Kotnala points to where the floodwaters rose, inundating his house. “I got one lakh rupees as compensation, but that’s hardly enough. My family has been renting a floor at a relative’s house till we fix ours, but we need a few lakh more and at least another year.” As we leave the village, we notice at least six other houses and a primary school partially dug out from the mud.

We then head towards Rudraprayag, the worst-affected district, where thousands went missing and were eventually declared dead.

The roads are abysmal and appear in some

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Ariste to artiste Faith restored Akram Khan triestotothe Pilgrims return delve into the mindthis of Kedarnath temple Igor pti yearStravinsky jean-louis fernandez

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them introduced for the first time — include mandatory issue of biometric cards for all yatris, a basic health check-up before they are allowed to ascend, rest points along the route and emergency response teams.

Sexagenarian Ram Bahadur, the yatri from Rae Bareilly, tells us, “There used to be vans full of people from every tehsil in our area. This year there was only one van from three tehsils, with only 40 deciding to come.”

The stark decrease in the number of pilgrims was evident all along the route. Hotels in many towns were either locked up or charging a fraction of their usual rates. “Our hotel has 80 rooms, of which 77 are empty,” says Rahul Semwal, the manager of Shivalik Valley Resorts near Sonprayag. “Rooms priced at ₹3,300 are going for ₹800-1,000. Frankly, we don’t expect the situation to get any better this year.

People are still scared.” This sentiment was echoed by the district administration too.

“From May 4 to June 4, only 15,700 pilgrims signed up to visit the Kedarnath shrine,” says Raghav Langer, the 32-year-old district magistrate of Rudraprayag, who took up the posting a month after the floods. “During peak season, the number of pilgrims is usually around 12,000 a day. Regardless, we have all the facilities in place; and even though the length of the route to the shrine has increased from 14km to 17.5km from Gauri Kund, it has been made much safer.”

En route to Kedarnath, the safety measures Langer mentioned are visible, and yatris seem to have little to complain about. Some of them are anxious about a possible repeat of last year’s tragic events. “We always wanted to visit the holy sites here and decided to come this year. We were worried about safety, but decided to go ahead anyway,” says Chennai resident Hema Athmaram, whom we meet at Guptakashi. “The language is a bit of a problem, but apart from that all the facilities have been very good so far. Tomorrow we are taking the helicopter to Kedarnath and then travelling onward to Badrinath.”

More helipads have been built in 2014, and they are found in every settlement along the route from Guptkashi to Sonprayag, with a helicopter taking off every few minutes and charging anywhere from ₹5,500 to ₹7,000 for a round trip to the shrine. This allows yatris to wrap up the darshan within a few hours. enced Stravinsky, including sacrifice, ritual, gives way to flamenco, and moves reminiscent Local muscledervishes. At other times, there is faith and doubt. These themes recur through of whirling “Peoplea from everywhere had come after this dance and operatic piece. barely movement on stage.

Adding to the floods and helped out,feel but is most them The are It opens with the story of Abraham, the bib- disjointed, disruptive the of music. now gone,” says Mukesh Samwal,Jocelyn a resident of lical character who was ordered by God — as a three composers, Nitin Sawhney, Pook Rudraprayag, thecomposed worst-affected with test of his faith — to sacrifice his son, danced and Ben Frost, theirdistrict parts inde3,963 missing and 652 declared dead. We first powerfully by TJ Lowe, who has appeared in pendent of each other, with no knowledge of met him bywere chance in the district several Khan creations, including his contri- what thequite others working on. Evercapital so ofwhen were looking for people who had bution to London’s Olympic Ceremony (Khan ten thewe chiming of bells interrupts. the medical camps and trauma does not appear in iTMOi). It moves on to the worked In thein dreamlike confusion, it’s hard to relief centres member for floodthevictims.

Samwal had fragile young girl, the ‘chosen’ study that went into been a volunteer at a camp theprogramme, town of Tilone, whose sacrifice and dance to the creation.

Ininthe wara. “Here,dramateur people are Ruth used to disasters, so the death is at the heart of the Rite Little explains maybe that’sthe why they manage copeestabwith of Spring, while a stern and siniscareful researchtothat It is clear this is anything that is thrown them,” he says.

In ter matriarch, in a white crinolished what atwas known about not a piece intended Rudraprayag, 86 villages were offofand the line skirt and large hat looks on, Stravinsky and hiscut state mind, to be easy on its district registered of covering the chosen one’s head and the the timeshighest he livednumber in, the repaudience dead, comprising both locals and visitors. with white powder as she makes resentations of human sacrifice, Classified and as aofZone 5 area, the itself. district is her choice. Other characters dive course the piece ourand jeep out, roar as we drive anddance landslides. in giving thetowards whole Gauri Kund highly prone to To earthquakes what extent the leaves from aSonprayag, located more than 1,800 “I’ve been here four yearswith anda sense have already dance dreamlike and disjointed the audience of Strametres above sea level.

Barring the legs photograseen three disasters,” says Meera Kaintura, feel.

This includes a jester, whose often vinsky’s mind when he composed the Ritethe of pher and I, the jeepunder has seven yatris (pilgrims) districtisdisaster management officer.

“In 2010 seem to melt away his crinoline skirt, as Spring debatable.

I felt it spoke far more for — six fromand Bhind district in Madhya Pradesh there was heavy flooding, while in 2012 the Ukhe dances dives, an unsuccessful dissent- the creative depths of Khan himself.

However, tehsil landslides and onewants fromto Rae Bareilly in Uttara Pradesh — either himathway, er who stop the sacrifice, lithe, oneit witnessed is a dancemajor that stays with and, you, of course, last year’s flood was theeven worst.” and a couple of SSBcreeps personnel headingand to- with horned faun who menacingly images flashing back to you days latfamilies that lost lives wards Bhimbali, one the of the rescueSpectacular points set er.While watchfully around stage. iTMOi,authorities which hassay already visited 17 counwere each ₹5 lakh as compensation, up on the alternative route to the Kedarnath lighting adds to the dream/nightmarish feel. tries, is setprovided to move on to Moscow, California, there areand many other losseslater that this are unacshrine after the last one was washed away varidur- Canada The 11-person troupe moves between Luxembourg year, countedthere for. “Iare owned two mobile shopsasand ing the floods. jeep of is avigour. free-of-cost service ous styles andThe levels Kathak, in though no plans to visit India yet.a amongKhan a plethora of features others offered which is trained, in manyby of the vegetable shop here in Gauri Kund, and all year. The servicesand — many of vidya three ram were washed away,” says Jameel Khan, State for wild andyatris livelythis dance sequences, often

Rite of the mind

Choreographer Akram Khan makes it difficult, beautiful and memorable for his audience in In the Mind of Igor, which recently ran to full houses in London

T New connections Yatris cross a newly built bridge at Sonprayag; and (right) further ahead, a Garhwali porter trudges up the reconstructed ‘Bridal Path’ to Gaurikund virender singh negi

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he huge uproar elicited by the Rite of Spring on its opening night at the Theatre des Champs-Élysées in Paris in May 1913 and the piece’s revolutionary impact on classical music are themes that have been revisited many a time over the years. The motivation of its creator, Igor Stravinsky, has been subject to somewhat less scrutiny. So, when Akram Khan, the Britishborn, Bangladeshi-origin dancer, director and choreographer was asked by London’s Sadler’s Wells Theatre to come up with a dance to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Rite of Spring last year, it was this challenging theme that he chose.

When iTMOi — In the Mind of Igor, pronounced to rhyme with ‘joy’ — premiered in London last year it received a muted reception from the city’s critics (one described it as a parts to beand another catastrophe-in-waiting.

As “tiresome ill-conceived idea”; while The we climb higher, improves drastiGuardian gave it the fourhighway stars), but a successful cally intour sections that, and we learnt global followed, a yearlater, later,were backreat built on Wells, a ‘war where footing’.Khan The towns lining it, Sadler’s has premiered however, Tilwara, NagartooraSilli, still much of be hisit work, it Vijay returned packed bear thenight. scars of last year’s floods. Several opening buildings from a narrow From thehang startprecariously — the soft murmuring of an ledge; locals pointfor to places whereto their audience waiting the curtain riseshops, is inroads or houses once stood effaced by a now terrupted by a loud and garbled cackling — it calmly river. is clear flowing this is not a piece intended to be easy on its audience. In the programme accompaSalvation-seeking army nying the show, Khan explains that he sought babaonKedarnath the occupants of “Jaifocus to a number jiofki...” the themes that influ-

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Reels within reels In Filmistaan, the abductee persuades his Islamic fundamentalist kidnappers to perform for the camera

46, who moves to Gauri Kund every ‘season’ from Bijnor in UP. He has managed to set up a lone vegetable shop this year. “For all my losses there was only a compensation of ₹20,000… They said we didn’t have proper documents, but when you’re running away PICTURE THIS from a flood, the last thing you’re thinking about is documents.”

Khan and his friend Noor Ahmad have been coming to this Hindu pilgrimage site for the past three decades, setting up a parallel life here during the six months the area remains accessible. They are here on business, of course, with Ahmad running a pony leasing business and Khan his shops. “Others from our town used to come too, but this year it’s only the two of us. If business continues to be this bad, I’ll be forced to go back to Bijnor.” monglike thethem funniest sequences in NiMany others are painfully picking tin Kakkar’s Filmistaan is oneonwhere up the pieces as they attempt to carry with Sunny their lives.the As inabducted 31 different placesArora in the perdissuades his village Islamictoo fundamentalist trict, in Chandrapuri the river had kidnappers perform for the camera. itThe washed awaytothe only bridge connecting to kidnappers thatthe thefloods evidence of we an abthe highway.hope “When came, all duction if that of a single Indian went up — toeven the jungles because the entireaam vilaadmi, of the intended many Amerilage wasinstead submerged,” recalls Sonya Yadav, 23, cans — some who is will the gain first them graduate inbargaining her family.power.

To reBut none of them you knowhave how to actually ach the village, walk aoperfew ate a video camera.

After blamingriverand hundred metres along thesome Mandakini’s shaming among the group members not bed and cross a bridge.

The 70 families for on this having acquired prior inbuilt this clearly side of the river had ontraining their own a temimportant skill,which Sunny speaks if the porary bridge, served up: them forgentlea few men don’t mind, couldadministration do the recording? months until the he district conThe next thingbridge, we know, abstructed a steel alsothe on unwilling the riverbed. ducteeifhas become the very willing star of his “Now, there is a slight rise in the water level, first real Butoff. after we’ll againfilm be appearance. completely cut Butseveral we’re roundsthat of ‘Rolling’, ‘Action’ and Sunny happy at least this bridge is ‘Cut’, available to decides it isn’t him who should have the us,” says Yadav. speaking part; the burly, kohl-eyed Mehmood Bhai, delivering his threat to Sunny’s life, is much more likely to create the desired cinematic impact. And so Sunny directs, and Mehmood Bhai acts.

Comic tone notwithstanding, the film is threaded through by a sense of mutual incomprehension between Sunny and Mehmood Bhai that constantly threatens to turn violent.

Much of that incomprehension is because neither can grasp the other’s attitude to cinema.

Sunny’s total adoration is evenly matched by Mehmood’s pure hatred. It is one of the film’s failings that we hear about that adoration in so much detail, and practically nothing about the hatred.

Filmistaan’s desert village has a faux-timeless, elemental quality that’s definitely bumped up by Kakkar’s decision to portray it as nearly media-free. There’s no television, no mobile phones, no computers or internet — even the radio (on which this particular bunch of Pakistanis listen to World Cup com-

Remote controlled

trisha gupta

Filmistaan isn’t half-bad. But it reminded me of a Bangladeshi film, also featuring a remote village, and the media as the central theme

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mentary) arrives aboard a colourfully decorat- lims watching TV at the Hindu family’s house. ed truck. All there is, rather too conveniently The television is seized and thrown in the fitted to the film’s romantic aims, is a khatara river, but when villagers start to cross the river VCD/DVD on which a pirated version of district to watch TV, the come up with Anotherplayer day (clockwise from above) Raghav Langer, magistrate ofchairman’s Rudraprayag men virender singh negi; Maine Pyar Kiya played to a captive audience an inventive theythe call a halal TV. residentsolution, HR Kotnalawhat indicates post-flood widows learn to is sew at the Deoli-Bhanigram village pti; Srinagar seated theinsands.

A live theatrical performance staged inside singh negi a water on levels his house; and Prakash Lal and his wife hold up images of their deceased sonsisvirender Filmistaan isn’t half-bad. But it reminded massive TV-shaped box. But then the chairthepassing tragedy.by, “Kedarnath like our home.

Sewing all together film I watched six months of me of a Bangladeshi man, bowls his is last googly: if the always custodians thethat’s shrinea Further upInternational along the Mandakini, in of the twin We ago at the Film Festival Kerala, rolehave of Akbar is been played

by Sattar, of then will that’s continue to be so. So says whilehis weman haven’t hamlets of Deoli-Bhanigram, the NGO also featuring a remote village, and theSulabh media and lie. “But imagination,” Jabit yet, all of is usvery will bad. in a few weeks’ Iinternational is helping back on as the central theme.

Andvillagers Mostofaget Sarwar Fa- visited bar. “Imagination It can take time,” you to their feet. village and the gram sabha it he says. rooki’s film“Our is way better. terrible places!” says the chairand other men vilbelongs to consist of 450 families, While the pujaris Television, as Farooki’s film is all of which man, putting an end toin thethe show. forthrough an auspicious timepeople to rewere dependent for livelihood,” lage are waitingAll called, gives us on a Kedarnath much more the film, to Kedarnath, the women are tryingand to says Prakash Lal, 42, to who is currently contestsympathetic figure represent are framed in windows Chairman turn shaheb sabha elections. the make the best of their newly acquired skills. ing the gram the Islamist perspective.

The vil- “When doors, seen through the slats of bans watching TV, floods came, at least 54 people from since here died “It has just been three months since the sewlage’s chairman shaheb, a doleful windows or parted curtains, as according to his at more than 30 women were ingHadith, machinesthey weremight set up be here, is oldKedarnath man who and reads a newspaper onsoa everyone TV screen. reading of the widowed.

Sulabh up gotfor to him, knowhas about this, and still learning,” says Savitri Tiwari, who lost her specially covered There are other marvellous ways depiction of any for a year it has been giving allhuman of us image husband andFarooki now teaches sewing banned thenow, villagers from watchwhich evokes the teleis lastinyear ₹2,000 every since month, besides skills “In a few months, ing television, according to visioninasDeoli. metaphor for imaginaharam providing machines we toscene, makeapettihis readingsewing of the Hadith, theand detion.are In looking one great man computers in the villages.” coats, and he other piction of any human imageLal is tells a blouses woman that has woma priused run a lodging en’s we will try haram.toBut when a Hindufacility family vate clothing, televisionwhich on which he can While Prakash Lal near thea TVKedarnath shrine. to sell in the of that Guptkashi acquires set, he cannot bar imagine her,shops and on televiescaped thesion floods, While thefumes floods,astwo and set Rudraprayag.” them. he Heescaped froths and almost everyone they have up home together. The twothe of hismake-what-you-will-of-this sons of his village sons slipped and fellstand to outside As we prepare tohere leaveisRudrain the proceeds to go tone an exslipped fell toof Farooki’s their near Rambara prayag, we cannot help but obhouse,death requesting mirrorseven to be placed forandample ability to weave a tragicomtheir death as they were trying to crawl back serverecognising that whilethe the signs of their viewing benefit. icnear tapestry, where absurdity Rambara, as to Running safety. “Toalongside lose one’s child is narrative devastation arenot stillpreclude visible, there this central is even something/someone does symthey were something can events, never get are many of hope climactic too. New a whole set one of other all of which in- trying pathyto for it/them.

In signs the moving crawlThe back to safety over…

I don’tforms thinkof I can back rivers) volve media onego kind or another. scene (let mepulley not givesystems it away),(to thecross chairman is to Kedarnath forSulaiman work, that is love with a forced to confront have come up at several places, a chairman’s son is in the fact that the television just notwoman possible.” suspension bridge was reyoung named Kohinoor, and since it is as a form — ornew the imagination as a medium — While Lal belongs toa acell schedcently opened in Vijay Nagar, and hard for them to meet, phone — and later is not deterministic.

It is a powerful comment uled and resides invehicle the up-for their bud- on what the media housescan aremean. being rebuilt along Skypetribe — forms the ideal gram those in the theAnd per of the Deoli way.yet While others may spar over whether dingend romance.

When we sabha, first see Kohinoor, this is too optimistic a conclusion. main predominantly to the pu- the disaster was divine retribution folly she is village speaking to her father belong from a cybercafé, Because if cinema and television canor beaessenrohit casteenters and their main means ofstudio employmanmade, residents in this ecologiand later an adjoining photo to entirely tial to opening up the imagination, they are alpujaris (priests) at the shrine. ment is aslover fragileofregion prefer meet her secretly.

The cell phone and cally so avenues colonising it. to keep calm and Kishan Tewari, 54-year-old hasn’t re- carry on… like they have several times before. computer, like athe romance,priest, are kept secret turned Kedarnath the floodloose but afis trisha gupta is a writer and critic based in Delhi from thetochairman, butsince all hell breaks arasu readying to man go back after the first anniversary t@chhotahazri ter the old discovers her amid the Mus- sibi

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The fast lane A copter carr landing at Phata, a hamlet by by

For better or worse

Tipping point The town of Tilwara is on a razor’s edge with many buildings still sinking

The search continues A n whose two children went m

Ebb and flow A dam under contruction at Srinagar in the Pauri District; one among many that may have exacerbated the damage

Neck-deep in trouble Hou deposited by the floodwatee

A year after the floods wreaked havoc, change is afoot in Uttarakhand and yet little has changed

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Road less travelled Like Sitapur, near Sonprayag, most towns that cater to yatris are deserted, their lodges shuttered all summer

virender singh negi is a freelance photographer based in Dehra Dun. Text

by Sibi Arasu

Quick fix ‘Black topping’ or road laying in full swing en route to the Kedarnath shrine

nce at Guptkashi, 1,300 metres above sea level, the drone of the helicopters rent the thin mountain air.

This year, the number of copters plying here has increased manifold, with people more scared than ever to be caught unawares on the trekking route to the shrine.

Meanwhile, as is evident from these images from the Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand, while rehabilitation has been carried out at great speed to make a success of the Char Dham Yatra this season, work on the local infrastructure continues at a snail’s pace. There are villages still sinking; buildings still in such disrepair, you would think the floodwaters hit them last week! But the roads are freshly laid, and there are facilities aplenty for the yatris.

While the number of yatris has dwindled — lodges are padlocked and towns are deserted — a few thousand have chosen to return a year after the natural disaster brought the state to its knees. “We are not scared, floods come and go but Kedarji still stands and that is enough for us,” says Harsuk Jain Jha, an advocate from Kapurthala, Punjab.

Dome’s day In the distancee

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rrrying yatris from Kedarnath readies for byy the highway

Pilgrim’s prayer A resident of Coimbatore, travelling from Kanyakumari to Kedarnath, prays for “Amma’s rule to flourish”

Saint returns A mauni baba (one who has taken a vow of silence) returns to Kedarnath for the eighth time. The baba escaped the floods last year by trekking through the jungle for two days

n notice pasted at Sonprayag by parents m missing in the mayhem

Queue, please Yatris from Vijayawada waiting to get their medical certificates checked by a police officer at Sonprayag

Uphill task Yatris hiking up the new route from Sonprayag to Gauri Kund and further up to Kedarnath

uses in Srinagar still buried in the mud eers

Trail of destruction A lodge that was built adjacent to a temple at Kund is on the verge of collapse

Sleeper cells At Gauri Kund, with fewer yatris trickling in, the owner of an empty restaurant takes a nap

ee, the collapsed Sashastra Seema Bal (SSB) auditorium in Srinagar which was destroyed by the floods days after it was opened

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Ariste to artiste Faith restored Akram Khan triestotothe Pilgrims return delve into the mindthis of Kedarnath temple Igor pti yearStravinsky jean-louis fernandez

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them introduced for the first time — include mandatory issue of biometric cards for all yatris, a basic health check-up before they are allowed to ascend, rest points along the route and emergency response teams.

Sexagenarian Ram Bahadur, the yatri from Rae Bareilly, tells us, “There used to be vans full of people from every tehsil in our area. This year there was only one van from three tehsils, with only 40 deciding to come.”

The stark decrease in the number of pilgrims was evident all along the route. Hotels in many towns were either locked up or charging a fraction of their usual rates. “Our hotel has 80 rooms, of which 77 are empty,” says Rahul Semwal, the manager of Shivalik Valley Resorts near Sonprayag. “Rooms priced at ₹3,300 are going for ₹800-1,000. Frankly, we don’t expect the situation to get any better this year.

People are still scared.” This sentiment was echoed by the district administration too.

“From May 4 to June 4, only 15,700 pilgrims signed up to visit the Kedarnath shrine,” says Raghav Langer, the 32-year-old district magistrate of Rudraprayag, who took up the posting a month after the floods. “During peak season, the number of pilgrims is usually around 12,000 a day. Regardless, we have all the facilities in place; and even though the length of the route to the shrine has increased from 14km to 17.5km from Gauri Kund, it has been made much safer.”

En route to Kedarnath, the safety measures Langer mentioned are visible, and yatris seem to have little to complain about. Some of them are anxious about a possible repeat of last year’s tragic events. “We always wanted to visit the holy sites here and decided to come this year. We were worried about safety, but decided to go ahead anyway,” says Chennai resident Hema Athmaram, whom we meet at Guptakashi. “The language is a bit of a problem, but apart from that all the facilities have been very good so far. Tomorrow we are taking the helicopter to Kedarnath and then travelling onward to Badrinath.”

More helipads have been built in 2014, and they are found in every settlement along the route from Guptkashi to Sonprayag, with a helicopter taking off every few minutes and charging anywhere from ₹5,500 to ₹7,000 for a round trip to the shrine. This allows yatris to wrap up the darshan within a few hours. enced Stravinsky, including sacrifice, ritual, gives way to flamenco, and moves reminiscent muscledervishes. At other times, there is faith and doubt. These themes recur through Local of whirling “People everywhere had come after this dance and operatic piece. barely afrom movement on stage.

Adding to the and helped out,feel but is most them The are It opens with the story of Abraham, the bib- floods disjointed, disruptive the of music. says Mukesh Samwal, Jocelyn a resident of lical character who was ordered by God — as a now threegone,” composers, Nitin Sawhney, Pook thecomposed worst-affected with test of his faith — to sacrifice his son, danced Rudraprayag, and Ben Frost, theirdistrict parts indemissing andother, 652 declared We first powerfully by TJ Lowe, who has appeared in 3,963 pendent of each with no dead. knowledge of bywere chance in the district several Khan creations, including his contri- met whathim thequite others working on. Evercapital so ofwere looking for people who had bution to London’s Olympic Ceremony (Khan when ten thewe chiming of bells interrupts. the medical camps and trauma does not appear in iTMOi). It moves on to the worked In thein dreamlike confusion, it’s hard to relief centres member for floodthe victims.

Samwal had fragile young girl, the ‘chosen’ study that went into been a volunteer at a campIninthe theprogramme, town of Tilone, whose sacrifice and dance to the creation. wara. “Here,dramateur people are Ruth used to disasters, so the death is at the heart of the Rite Little explains maybe that’sthe why they manage copeestabwith of Spring, while a stern and siniscareful researchtothat It is clear this is anything that is thrown them,” he says.

In ter matriarch, in a white crinolished what atwas known about not a piece intended Rudraprayag,Stravinsky 86 villages were offofand the line skirt and large hat looks on, and hiscut state mind, to be easy on its district registered of covering the chosen one’s head and the the timeshighest he livednumber in, the repaudience dead, comprising both locals and visitors. with white powder as she makes resentations of human sacrifice, Classified and as aofZone 5 area, the district her choice. Other characters dive course the piece itself. is our jeep roar we drive anddance landslides. in and out, as giving thetowards whole Gauri Kund highly prone to Toearthquakes what extent the leaves from located more than 1,800 “I’ve been here four yearswith anda sense have already dance Sonprayag, a dreamlike and disjointed the audience of Strametres above sea level.

Barring the legs photograthree disasters,” sayscomposed Meera Kaintura, feel. This includes a jester, whose often seen vinsky’s mind when he the Ritethe of pher I, the jeepunder has seven yatris (pilgrims) management officer.

“In 2010 seemand to melt away his crinoline skirt, as district Spring isdisaster debatable.

I felt it spoke far more for — fromand Bhind district in Madhya Pradesh was heavy flooding, while in 2012 the Ukhesix dances dives, an unsuccessful dissent- there the creative depths of Khan himself.

However, tehsil landslides and onewants fromto Rae Bareilly in Uttara Pradesh — himath er who stop the sacrifice, lithe, oneeither way, it witnessed is a dancemajor that stays with and, you, course, last year’s flood theeven worst.” and a couple of SSBcreeps personnel headingand to- of horned faun who menacingly with images flashing back was to you days latfamilies that lost lives wards Bhimbali, one the of the rescueSpectacular points set er.While watchfully around stage. iTMOi,authorities which hassay already visited 17 counwere ₹5 lakh as compensation, up on the alternative route to the Kedarnath lighting adds to the dream/nightmarish feel. tries, each is setprovided to move on to Moscow, California, many other losseslater that this are unacshrine the last one was washed away varidur- there The after 11-person troupe moves between Canadaareand Luxembourg year, for. “Iare owned two mobile shopsas and ing floods. jeep of is avigour. free-of-cost service ous the styles andThe levels Kathak, in counted though there no plans to visit India yet.a among a plethora of features others offered which Khan is trained, in manyby of the vegetable shop here in Gauri Kund, and all this year. The services and — many of vidya three ram were washed away,” says Jameel Khan, State wild for andyatris lively dance sequences, often

Rite of the mind

Choreographer Akram Khan makes it difficult, beautiful and memorable for his audience in In the Mind of Igor, which recently ran to full houses in London

T New connections Yatris cross a newly built bridge at Sonprayag; and (right) further ahead, a Garhwali porter trudges up the reconstructed ‘Bridal Path’ to Gaurikund virender singh negi

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he huge uproar elicited by the Rite of Spring on its opening night at the Theatre des Champs-Élysées in Paris in May 1913 and the piece’s revolutionary impact on classical music are themes that have been revisited many a time over the years. The motivation of its creator, Igor Stravinsky, has been subject to somewhat less scrutiny. So, when Akram Khan, the Britishborn, Bangladeshi-origin dancer, director and choreographer was asked by London’s Sadler’s Wells Theatre to come up with a dance to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Rite of Spring last year, it was this challenging theme that he chose.

When iTMOi — In the Mind of Igor, pronounced to rhyme with ‘joy’ — premiered in London last year it received a muted reception from the city’s critics (one described it as a parts to be and another catastrophe-in-waiting.

As “tiresome ill-conceived idea”; while The we climb higher, highway improves drastiGuardian gave it the four stars), but a successful cally sections that, and we learnt globalintour followed, a yearlater, later,were backreat built on Wells, a ‘war where footing’.Khan The towns lining it, Sadler’s has premiered however, Tilwara, NagartooraSilli, still much of be hisit work, it Vijay returned packed bear thenight. scars of last year’s floods. Several opening buildings from a narrow From thehang startprecariously — the soft murmuring of an ledge; locals point for to places where to their audience waiting the curtain riseshops, is inroads or houses once stood effaced by a now terrupted by a loud and garbled cackling — it calmly river. is clearflowing this is not a piece intended to be easy on its audience. In the programme accompaSalvation-seeking army nying the show, Khan explains that he sought babaonKedarnath the occupants of “Jai to focus a number jiofki...” the themes that influ-

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saturday, june 21, 2014

Reels within reels In Filmistaan, the abductee persuades his Islamic fundamentalist kidnappers to perform for the camera

46, who moves to Gauri Kund every ‘season’ from Bijnor in UP. He has managed to set up a lone vegetable shop this year. “For all my losses there was only a compensation of ₹20,000… They said we didn’t have proper documents, but when you’re running away PICTURE THIS from a flood, the last thing you’re thinking about is documents.”

Khan and his friend Noor Ahmad have been coming to this Hindu pilgrimage site for the past three decades, setting up a parallel life here during the six months the area remains accessible. They are here on business, of course, with Ahmad running a pony leasing business and Khan his shops. “Others from our town used to come too, but this year it’s only the two of us. If business continues to be this bad, I’ll be forced to go back to Bijnor.” monglike thethem funniest sequences in NiMany others are painfully picking tin Kakkar’s Filmistaan is oneonwhere up the pieces as they attempt to carry with Sunny their lives.the As inabducted 31 different placesArora in the perdissuades his village Islamictoo fundamentalist trict, in Chandrapuri the river had kidnappers perform for the camera. itThe washed awaytothe only bridge connecting to kidnappers thatthe thefloods evidence of an the highway.hope “When came, we aball duction if that of a single Indian went up —toeven the jungles because the entireaam vilaadmi, instead of the intended many Amerilage was submerged,” recalls Sonya Yadav, 23, cans — some who is will the gain first them graduate inbargaining her family.power.

To reBut none them know how to ach the of village, you have to actually walk aoperfew ate a video camera.

After blamingriverand hundred metres along thesome Mandakini’s shaming among the group members not bed and cross a bridge.

The 70 families for on this having acquired prior in built this clearly side of the river had ontraining their own a temimportant skill,which Sunny speaks if the porary bridge, served up: them forgentlea few men don’t mind, couldadministration do the recording? months until thehe district conThe next thingbridge, we know, abstructed a steel alsothe on unwilling the riverbed. ducteeifhas become the very willing star of his “Now, there is a slight rise in the water level, first real film Butoff. after we’ll again be appearance. completely cut Butseveral we’re roundsthat of ‘Rolling’, ‘Action’ andis ‘Cut’, Sunny happy at least this bridge available to decides it isn’t him who should have the us,” says Yadav. speaking part; the burly, kohl-eyed Mehmood Bhai, delivering his threat to Sunny’s life, is much more likely to create the desired cinematic impact. And so Sunny directs, and Mehmood Bhai acts.

Comic tone notwithstanding, the film is threaded through by a sense of mutual incomprehension between Sunny and Mehmood Bhai that constantly threatens to turn violent.

Much of that incomprehension is because neither can grasp the other’s attitude to cinema.

Sunny’s total adoration is evenly matched by Mehmood’s pure hatred. It is one of the film’s failings that we hear about that adoration in so much detail, and practically nothing about the hatred.

Filmistaan’s desert village has a faux-timeless, elemental quality that’s definitely bumped up by Kakkar’s decision to portray it as nearly media-free. There’s no television, no mobile phones, no computers or internet — even the radio (on which this particular bunch of Pakistanis listen to World Cup com-

Remote controlled

trisha gupta

Filmistaan isn’t half-bad. But it reminded me of a Bangladeshi film, also featuring a remote village, and the media as the central theme

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mentary) arrives aboard a colourfully decorat- lims watching TV at the Hindu family’s house. ed truck. All there is, rather too conveniently The television is seized and thrown in the fitted to the film’s romantic aims, is a khatara river, but when villagers start to cross the river VCD/DVD on which a pirated version of district to watch TV, theofchairman’s come up with Anotherplayer day (clockwise from above) Raghav Langer, magistrate Rudraprayag men virender singh negi; Maine Pyar Kiya played to a captive audience an inventive theythe call a halal TV. residentsolution, HR Kotnalawhat indicates post-flood widows learn to is sew at the Deoli-Bhanigram village pti; Srinagar seated theinsands.

A live theatrical performance staged inside singh negi a wateron levels his house; and Prakash Lal and his wife hold up images of their deceased sonsisvirender Filmistaan isn’t half-bad. But it reminded massive TV-shaped box. But then the chairthepassing tragedy.by,“Kedarnath is like our home.

Sewing all together film I watched six months of me of a Bangladeshi man, bowls his last googly: if the always custodians thethat’s shrinea Further upInternational along the Mandakini, in of the twin We ago at the Film Festival Kerala, rolehave of Akbar is been played

by Sattar, of then will that’s continue to be so. So says while weman haven’t hamlets of Deoli-Bhanigram, the NGO also featuring a remote village, and theSulabh media and lie. “But imagination,” his Jabit yet, all of is usvery willbad. in a few weeks’ time,” Iinternational is helping back Faon visited as the central theme.

Andvillagers Mostofaget Sarwar bar. “Imagination It can take you to their feet. village and the gram sabha it he says. rooki’s film“Our is way better. terrible places!” says the chairand other men vilbelongs to consist of 450 families, While the pujaris Television, as Farooki’s film is all of which man, putting an end toin thethe show. forthrough an auspicious timepeople to rewere dependent for livelihood,” lage are waitingAll called, gives us on a Kedarnath much more the film, turn to Kedarnath, the women are tryingand to says Prakash Lal, 42,to who is currently contestsympathetic figure represent are framed in windows Chairman shaheb sabha elections. the make the best of their newly acquired skills. ing the gram the Islamist perspective.

The vil- “When doors, seen through the slats of bans watching TV, floods came, at least 54 people from since here died “It has just been three months since the sewlage’s chairman shaheb, a doleful windows or parted curtains, as according to his at than 30 women were ing machinesthey weremight set up be here, is oldKedarnath man who and readsmore a newspaper onsoa everyone TV screen. reading of the Hadith, widowed.

Sulabh up gotfor to him, knowhas about this, and still learning,” says Savitri Tiwari, who lost her specially covered There are other marvellous ways depiction of any for a year it has been giving allhuman of us image husband andFarooki now teaches sewing banned thenow, villagers from watchwhich evokes the teleis lastinyear ₹2,000 every since month, besides skills “In a few months, ing television, according to visioninasDeoli. metaphor for imaginaharam providing machines we makea pettihis readingsewing of the Hadith, theand detion.are In looking one greattoscene, man computers in the villages.” coats, and he other piction of any human imageLal is tells a blouses woman that has woma priused run a lodging en’s we will try haram.toBut when a Hindufacility family vate clothing, televisionwhich on which he can While Prakash Lal near thea TVKedarnath shrine. to sell in the of that Guptkashi acquires set, he cannot bar imagine her,shops and on televiescaped thesion floods, While thefumes floods, and set Rudraprayag.” them. he He escaped froths and astwo almost everyone they have up home together. The twothe of hismake-what-you-will-of-this sons of his village sons slipped and fellstand to outside As we prepare tohere leaveisRudrain the proceeds to go tone an exslipped fell toof Farooki’s their near Rambara prayag, we cannot help but obhouse,death requesting mirrors even to be placed for andample ability to weave a tragicomtheir death as they were trying to crawl back serverecognising that whilethethe signs of their viewing benefit. icnear tapestry, where absurdity Rambara, as to Running safety. “Toalongside lose one’s child is narrative devastation still visible, there this central is even something/someone doesare not preclude symthey were something can events, never get are many of hope climactic too. New a whole set one of other all of which in- trying pathy to for it/them.

In signs the moving crawlThe back to safety over…

I don’tforms thinkof I can back rivers) volve media onego kind or another. scene (let mepulley not givesystems it away),(to thecross chairman is to Kedarnath forSulaiman work, that is love with a forced to confront have come up that at several places, a chairman’s son is in the fact the television just notwoman possible.” suspension bridge was reyoung named Kohinoor, and since it is as a form — ornew the imagination as a medium — While Lal belongs schedcently opened in Vijay Nagar, and hard for them to meet,toa acell phone — and later is not deterministic.

It is a powerful comment uled and resides invehicle the up-for their bud- on what the media housescan aremean. being rebuilt along Skypetribe — forms the ideal gram those in the theAnd per of the Deoli way.yet While others may spar over whether dingend romance.

When we sabha, first see Kohinoor, this is too optimistic a conclusion. main predominantly belong to the pu- the disaster was divine retribution folly she is village speaking to her father from a cybercafé, Because if cinema and television canor be aessenrohit casteenters and their main means ofstudio employmanmade, in this ecologiand later an adjoining photo to entirely tial to opening up theresidents imagination, they are alpujaris (priests) at the shrine. ment is as fragileofregion prefer meet her lover secretly.

The cell phone and cally so avenues colonising it. to keep calm and Kishan Tewari, 54-year-old hasn’t re- carry on… like they have several times before. computer, like athe romance,priest, are kept secret turned Kedarnath the floodloose but afis trisha gupta is a writer and critic based in Delhi from thetochairman, butsince all hell breaks arasu readying toman go back after the anniversary t@chhotahazri ter the old discovers herfirst amid the Mus- sibi

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The modern flâneur Nepal’s noodle king

The spiral form of reading online, rather than a linear one, isn’t less serious, just different.

One that acknowledges the architecture of the World Wide Web Billionaire Binod K Chaudhary recounts the saga of how he grabbed a winning business idea off the baggage carousel at Kathmandu airport nandini nair

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glance at the top of my Google Chrome page and notice that I have 12 tabs open — articles wish toa read, Gmail, which I ob-cess in Kathmandu, but we had to close it t 23, heI sealed deal for the internaIn 1996, the Cinnovation Group, of which he sessively check, and Mad Men, tional rights of Wai Wai season (quick,sev-down,” he says. His family was against the is chairman, tied up with Taj Hotels Resorts en, which rather And too last slowly.business and his father objected to his eldest and Palaces to form a 50-50 joint venture that quickisinbuffering, Thai) noodles.

Facebook and Twitter havehim beenasduly scrolledson’s late-night life. year, Forbes listed Nepal’s owns and operates properties in Sri Lanka, logged out of. That is not too bad, This experience taught him two lessons — Maldives and Malaysia. In India, the group firstthrough and onlyand dollar-billionaire.

I think myself. Mynever sisterwent has an of 30family comes first, but business succeeds plans to open three boutique hotels under the Binod K to Chaudhary toaverage business tabsinstead open at a time. A colleague murmured school, a discotheque taught him how when you think out of the box.

Zinc Journey brand in Rajasthan, Kerala and thata business she had when only 50 simultaneously. to run he open was only 19. “I was He belongs to a third-generation trader the Northeast. A food park in Ajmer is also unThat is customers, when Google sighed andthe killed itself.family that migrated to Nepal from Rajasthan der construction. managing serving them best liMy parents seldom have more than threemore than a century ago. His father, Lunkaran quor and, of course, constantly assessing peoEager to increase business in India, he wishopen a time. ple at theat same time. No business school could Das Chaudhary, had a well-established busi- es the country would do more to attract peodayssays it isChaudhary, fashionablenow to lament teach These me that,” 58. aboutness in textiles and biscuits, and owned, ple like him. “It’s not easy to do business in the internet to wring aboutamong other things, Arun Emporium, a pop- India. For instance, hospitality is a rich man’s Copper Floor, generation, his discotheque, washands thriving their attention-deficit-hyperactivity-disorwhen it suddenly shut down two years down ular departmental store in Kathmandu that business. I am invited to many States to set up To declare that their lights incessant the ders. line. “We had psychedelic and scrolling, a mu- was a hit among tourists in the ’70s and ’80s. noodle factories, but no one encourages the typing, from texting is theand sureitand sic system Japan, wascertain a hugeroute suc- to The noodle business had its beginnings in hospitality sector. That’s why India sees only imbecility. They have not the patience to readthe unlikeliest of places. “Wai five million tourists a year, War and Peace, so can never be worthy citizensWai was born on the baggage whereas Thailand has 20 milof our republic. belt of the Tribhuvan Internalion,” he says. Chaudhary also But you know what — it is high time we kepttional Airport,” says Chaudhary. wants the country to improve He unwinds on yearly down our gavel of snobbery and dismountedOn his return from trips to Jabasic facilities such as airport, treks, including our literary high horse. I am weary of all thosepan, Korea and Hong Kong, road transport and security. forays into the authors, critics and Luddites who vilify theChaudhary often noticed large Asserting that his company is Himalayas, right up to blue glow on our faces and lament the demisecartons of noodles arriving at in India for the long haul, he conEverest base camp of deep reading, while propagating some-the airport. He learnt that people fidently says, “You will see our thing called — slow reading. travelling to the Far East usually companies listed on Bombay Today’s Web reader is no modern monstros-brought these back with them.

Stock Exchange and New York ity, instead he/she is the essential flâneur. A Aappreciate trip to Thailand all it the criticwas for mentioning the “whiff the rigourStock Exchange day.” and the (most often) ofone Wikipedia lovely French term for a stroller, walker, idler,tookoftoexploitation seal a deal for international rightsLike Back thatthe hangs over” the book. home, as a member of Nepal’s scope of fan-fiction to realise that Parliawhile the usually perceived as a nifty Frenchman, am-of Wai noodles.

A factory wasare set far up in Ne- ment theWai essential traveller, you removed from 2008 to 2012, he helped draftmost its of Web reader might be ambling along bling down the streets of Paris. Stopping here,pal from in the your mid-1980s. his family owning pointWith of departure, instead ayounewthe Constitution.

“Things arescribble slowly changtime, she also stops to in the wet stopping there, doffing his hat to strangers, heflour mill, raw material was never problem. have landed on completely newaand undiscov-ing cement and I hope Nepal be prosperous oneothof the Web,will leaving her trace for spends time rather than money and brims The company started 30,000 packets ered turf. If you had with read the same article inday,” hetosays. ers read. Scrolling down thousands of pages with curiosity about all that he sees and en-andthe now manufactures more than billion a Rolling Stone magazine itself,2these discovWhile Chaudhary takes his business seriof fan-fiction left me feeling oddly optimistic. counters. The German philosopher Oswaldyear.eries Priced at ₹10 each, the noodles come in would have never mushroomed uponously, he wears the billionaire tag rather lightHere were people reinterpreting and recastSpengler described a flâneur as — “Man as apacks of veg masala and chicken flavours with ly. His your path. in Delhi has none of the trappings ingoffice our favourite books and movies and comcivilised being, as (an) intellectual nomad... three seasonings enhancer, chilli This spiral form — oftaste reading, rather than aof aics. billion-dollar business, norcareened does thefrom man the Sure, the writing-style again wholly microcosmic, wholly homeless, linear one, powder onion-flavoured oil. whoembarrassing isn’t aand less serious form of reading, owns it. So, there are no multiple levels to the pleasurable — butofthis as free intellectually as hunter and herdsman it is just a“We have two cent different form.per One thatmarket acknowl-secretaries get through to reach was the to 21st century form of thehim. oral tradition. were free sensually.” share globally and 25 per cent edges the architecture of the World Wide Web, Chaudhary asked how he feelsin a Instead of alaughs singlewhen author’s voice fossilised The most common criticism levied against where information in India,” is he says. infinite about being called the ‘Noodle King’. single tome, here we“Media had hunreading on the internet is its non-linearity. and discoveriesIn India, the growth has gave me that title. unlimited.

I hadofnovoices say inand that.retellings.

But, I dreds Our eyes scan a webpage in the form of an F. beenon the entirely To be a reader Net is, word-of- have to live up toAnd the expectations.

That’s lot we are the richer forathat.

We read the top few lines, we merely glance at like a flâneur, to mouth.

“Our customers are of pressure,” he says. be both ‘protagWhile readers have moved the bottom. If words and phrases don’t clasp onist and audience’. our trueYou ambassadors.

Also, make He relaxes golfbest andand squash over auahead, our brightest To be a reader on by playing our attention, we simply move onto another your own path, thisyou kind product the re- Net plotofyour weekends, during thorshimself of literature haveannual not. To be is, like a pampers tab, another window, another world. Like a flâ- own journey and quires an you efficient then sit supply detox trips andour unwinds on yearly relevant books today need to flâneur,wellness to be both neur — quite like the nomad — the internet back and enjoy chain. is a huge marit. India However treks, including forays into the Himalayas, absorb, not replicate, the spiral ‘protagonist and reader has no pre-determined destination, much we mightket.

Youthe cannot crave smellhave a fac- audience’ right up to Everest baseofcamp. form reading of the Net. Reand is in search of only the next fertile field up- of old books — like tory in sawdust south India and fresh Movies are another indulgence for cently, major author-historian-journalon which to graze. We walk not in straight and baking bread, serve in the We this fan of actorist or the feelNortheast. of a Devand Anand.

Besides singingSam a flâneur himself, lines, but in spirals of discovery, scanning ev- glossy magazinewant to ramp up produc- modern and folkMiller — like a womsongsused for footnotes the local as radio, hyperer-larger arcs of information, and at times, an’s just waxed thigh, tion paper facilities. can We will Chaudhary even links-in-prose produced a film Basuin Acalled Strange Kind of even knowledge. of that advertising never give us thethink agency the Net latallowsdev Paradise. back in 1985.

Extensively researched and in some Let’s take an example. You start reading a and encourages.er,” he says.

I like to consider myself a His marriage with Sarika of Devi the these couplefootways even independent the—text, 2012 Rolling Stone article, about Bowe Berg- rather avid readerWith factories in Assam, of magazines and books, Ihasnotes three allow sons: Nirvana, 33, Rahul, 32 out and of Va- the the reader to move dahl, US’s most famous Prisoner of War, who have never owned Sikkim and and Uttarakhand, a Kindle stick to the pa-run,main 28 — text was and no less filmy. Sarika, daughwindow-shop forthe a while.

Once has captured your newsfeed of late. The fact per route, but theI company plans more must acknowledge theinfactter of a family friend, and he eloped to Delhi satiated with the curiosities in other alcoves, that Michael Hastings, the 30-something au- that while aChittoor (Andhraone’s Pradesh), book harnesses imagina-afterthe his family objected to story the marriage reader returns to the at hand. on thor of the article, died a year after it was pub- tion, reading Purnia and on the(Bihar) Net shoots youRoopaninto differ-the grounds differences.

To read,oftocaste wander, without “I anasked end inmy sight lished catches your eye. You soon start reading ent constellations. garh (Rajasthan). friends to organise thebetter wedding at Maurya — what bigger and freedom can there about Hastings’ work, career, and of course, Today, Chaudhary’s business em- toSheraton,” Our traditional flâneur while empathetic “It was supposed ever be?says MadChaudhary, Men has successfully downloadhis death. You then find yourself reading his surroundings, pire is spread real ofto be wasacross seen finance, as a parasite buttoslowly ed,a Ihush-hush must nowaffair return other everyone tabs on my about his book, with the curious title I Lost My sorts — estate, hydro-powder, an observer and never education, a contributor.dropped including my page, in, to the millions offather!” worlds at my disposal.

Love in Baghdad, A Modern War Story, where he Our internet hospitality and telecomare services in ac- And to Don Draper. readers, however, far more writes about the death of his then girlfriend. tive participants. more thanOne 20 countries. only needs to glance atsarbani sen is a Delhi-based writer You read its review in the New York Times and the fervour (or vileness) of online comments, nandini nair

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CUB READS

Under the sludge The Kedarnath temple and the town that girdles it submerged in silt last summer afp

Take away

A Bollywood plot that makes heroes of dabbawalas

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t is said that one in six million dabbas delivered by Mumbai’s dabbawalas goes missing. Now what are the odds that an anxious young bride should slip in a note in that errant tiffin box that goes undelivered? Mahtab Narsimhan’s The Tiffin traces the tale of a missing dabba, the urgent note in it and the lives it subsequently turns around. The story begins with a nervous Anahita packing lunch and a note for husband Anurag. When she finds a new dabbawala at her door instead of her regular, a visibly tense Anahita takes this as a sign. “Your husband will get the delivery,” the new dabbawala assures her. Despite his assurance and his organisation’s stellar record, the dabbawala fails her and Anurag never gets the note.

Cut to 13 years later. The book’s protagonist Kunal is working at a miserable restaurant, serving lecherous customers anda bhurji and sambar vada. The employer Sethji is a veritable sourpuss, working his underage staff like slaves. With his fair countenance, light eyes and good looks, 12-year-old Kunal is often the subject of lewd speculation. It is The Tiffin rather obvious that Mahtab Narsimhan Sethji and his equalPenguin ly surly wife have Fiction adopted Kunal. ₹299 Every night he dreams of reuniting with his real family.

After he befriends Vinayakji, a dabbawala, Kunal escapes Sethji’s grim workhouse and sets his heart on becoming a dabbawala, the only way he can reach out to his mother. After several twists and turns Kunal’s plans fall into place. The mother is located but a reunion is not on the cards.

Instead, the boy finds a new family.

Narsimhan says that the “unique dabbawalas of Mumbai were the inspiration for the book”. While that may be true, the real hero of the book is the city itself. The beginning smacks of the film The Lunchbox — although The Tiffin had a first release in 2011 — and it doesn’t lack in Bollywood drama. Street corners lurk with danger, fights are aplenty and violent, the scent of sexual encounters hangs in the air and childhood is a nonexistent stage for the poor of Mumbai. The abuse and violence that is meted out to Kunal and his coworkers is dramatic in its ferocity. What keeps this modern version of an old Bollywood plot — reunion of family members who were separated in the Kumbh Mela — believable is the city it is set in, the city of beautiful forevers. priyanka kotamraju

anita roy

ON THE SHELF

Walk the walk

The slowness and simplicity of ambling — in literature and in life — allow the world to unfold in simple revelations

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oing for a walk’ is a peculiarly English thing. It has little to do with physical exercise or hiking; it doesn’t involve rucksacks and energy bars. It’s just popping out for a bit of fresh air, or maybe a stroll round the block. If you have a dog, then there’s that additional sense of purpose, but if you don’t, it doesn’t really matter: no one will judge you. You don’t need fancy trainers, there’s no lycra involved. It’s just going for a walk, getting about like people have for most of the past two million years or so, since homo erectus started tottering about on his hind legs.

Living in Delhi, perhaps the least pedestrian-friendly city on the planet, it’s the one thing I really miss. It’s a perilous undertaking — going for a walk — requiring constant vigilance: potholes, mud, crazy traffic, honking, swerving, sudden craters, rubble, sleeping dogs, miscellaneous excreta, rubbish, dust storms, pus when the raging Alaknanda swept away heat... So, the outside being what it is, I the still-unused edifice. While SSB appears to decided read about walking instead, “We wereto looking for them for months, but now there is no hope. The government has have found its feet again, a tiny hamlet adjoinPlodding joys Walking allows for inward and outward journeys reuters/toru hanai and issued turnedtheir to Rachel Joyce’s charming even death certificates,” says Ravi Kumar Goud, 38, from Kondapur, Hyderaing its campus — Shakti Vihar — is still clawing The Unlikely Pilgrimage Harold Fry. bad.

Goud and 20 of hisofrelatives, including his mother Uma Rani, had gone to Kedarits way up from the muck engulfing it.

When Harold pops down the road to revelations: the hedgerow flowers, the sions heWe nath on June 4, 2013.

Only 10 returned. areHarold’s travelling on turns the National has, walk out to Highway post a letter, he has no idea that he has gentle undulations of the land, the bird- be a test 58, the arterial road connectsof the four hoof endurance.

Asthat the narrator just the single step onsome a long “Mytaken mother didn’t make it. But of us managed get onscents to the second of a ly sites In or the Char Dhams — Badrinath, Kedarsong, thetosubtle of the floor countryPaul Auster’s Country of Last Things, marchnear thatKedarnath will take him, if not the thoulodge and somehow we held on.

We“Wild remained there for the two air dayswith till the nath, Gangotri and to the rest of side. garlic filled its puts it: “I put one foot in Yamunotri front of the—othsand came milesto that Chairman predictarmy rescue us,” he Mao recounts.

Now back in pungency.

Hyderabad,Once Goudmore, has resumed his the country.

Builtfoot by the Border sweet it surprised er, and then the other in front of Roads the Organied, as then not farrepresentative off: 627, to be job a medical butprecise, struggles tohim regain semblance of his normalcy.

(BRO), from Rishikesh the way up to howa much was at feet, if “It’s onlynot he first, sation and then hope I can do it all again. fromwithout Kingsbridge on the south coastnot of thishad easy my mother.

I think, maybe yearknown but thetonext…

Mana Pass,than it is that... also a strategic for the look.”we’re definitely going Nothing more I breathe highway what Devon Scottish border townthis of Berback to to thethe shrines to pay homage, time for my mother as Army, connecting Tibet.

Following thewell.” footsteps of this unas- air is Indian given me.

I eat as little asIndia I can.toNo wick-upon-Tweed. The novel follows this suming pilgrim, the reader is led matter what At Shakti Vihar, a mere of houses outanyone says, the cluster only thing unassuming middle-aged side Srinagar, 74-year-old HR Kotnala, a retired through his inward jour- that counts is staying on your feet.” husband in his very slow, vehorticulturist, offers to show us ney as well as his outer one, Yetgovernment even more than the relentlessness, ry simple quest to walk to His house is still mired in the mud dememories of the past and morearound. than simply not giving up, Joyce’s Berwick where anat oldKund friendon the Kedar- referring to the e are relocation of the bypossibility the floods. “The water came up to encounters with the Dhari new. devi novelposits offersleft the of redempIt surprised him how of his lies dying of cancer. nath road, a highway stop- shrine at Srinagar, Uttarakhand, allow wasecond in somewalk, of theafter houses here,” The absurdities of toother tion. the Harold’s is floor no ordinary much was at his feet, She had once performed over not morean than 30km out ter to flow uninterrupted a dam Located 560 metres above sea level, people’s lives,from as well as conall: ithe is asays. pilgrimage, however unlikely. if only he had known act of kindness for himwhen we run structed by the of Rudraprayag, GVK group.and That very day,Along a the suffered to property, their richness strangetheregion way, he learnsgreat of thedamage random to look 20 years later, he lighting his spectacular cloudburst saw the rivers overinto which, Narasimha Ras just as he’s as much from the flood as from the silt left beness are both humbling kindness of strangers, and its remarkafeels heofmust thank first chillum the day.

“It her wasfor, because of what flowing withand a wrath quite unlike hind. UsingAnd his walking stick, Kotnala points awe-inspiring: “...it anything was ble abundance. ultimately, like so and that only by “It was only this disaster-prone they in didperson, to the Dhari devi,” he says. area had of everpeople witnessed. where the floodwaters inundating his the smallness manytojourneys — and somehowrose, especialwalking willmoved he ensure hours after they devithat ma that the gla- Towns went under water,him villages house.

“I got one lakh rupees that filled withwere won-wiped ly those on foot — the realisation that as thecompensashe lives, at least ascausing long as itsuch takesdevastahim to der cier fell into the lake, outand and, by the time waters subsided, tion, but that’sthe hardly enough. tenderness, and the loneliness of further you travel closer you getMy tofamily has there. tion.get Our god wouldn’t let a slight like this that moretoo. than floor at aperhaps, relative’sbut house till we The 900 worldwere was confirmed made up of dead peo- and wherebeen you renting started: achanged, Beset doubts and pass. Our godwith is a vengeful god.”blisters, map- ple nearly 6,000 listed largely prefix ours, but we need a few lakh more and at putting one footas inmissing front ofand the other; returned home. less, phoneless, and with the clothes and A native of Vijayawada, Rasonly is a mechanical sumed dead.

Andappear these were just the conserva- least another year.” As we leave the village, we a life might ordinary simply on hisbyback and a and pair aofShaivite thin-soled yachtengineer training sadhu by because tive estimates. leastand sixdirector otherof houses the person living it had done so anitanotice roy is aatwriter Young and a primary ing shoesfor on the his last feet, 19 onyears. he plods.

The for a long time.” renunciation Together partially dug out from the mud. anita@anitaroy.net Zubaanschool and simplicity of walking allow withslowness two other sadhus, he has been trekking The runawaywind river and rain, sleeping We then head towards Rudraprayag, the Through world to its10 own slow, simple fromthe Rishikesh forunfold the last days.

Their plan rough In Srinagar, the erstwhile capital of the Garh- worst-affected district, where thousands went and giving away what few posseswas to arrive in Kedarnath exactly a year after wal kingdom, the Sashastra Seema Bal (SSB) missing and were eventually declared dead. the flash floods struck on June 16, 2013. Ras was had just built a gigantic auditorium at its cam- The roads are abysmal and appear in some

A year later

It’s a long road to recovery yet. But a year after the devastation, Uttarakhand comes to terms with lost lives and livelihoods, mud-mired villages and a temperamental ecology

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Clearing the smoke Author Shereen El Feki brings tales of sexual angst in Egypt out into the open

reuters/asmaa waguih

IAS APPEALS TO AMNESTY INTERNATIONAL! Let’s have more H

SHOVON CHOWDHURY is chief Truthdigger and author of The Competent Authority

is chair is the largest in the call of the nation was not to be there would be trouble when ing a paragraph from the PM’s speech in the room. It is ergonomic and mon- denied. He puts the file back that Hong Kong research com- report was a masterstroke, although they pany rated us the worst civil could have changed the wording a little. umental. A grubby towel is and slips out of the room, draped over the left armrest. Be- abashed. He gives me a sideservice in Asia for the third Naturally we don’t want NGOs hampering time in a row. It’s easy for them our sovereignty, but in this case, we applied hind his head is a portrait of Gandhi. He ways glance, knowing I have looks depressed. The Joint Secretary reac- witnessed his humiliation. to criticise. Chinese are much through the Foreign Service. Our perspeches for the towel and wipes his brow. He is When I go to meet him next, more obedient. Now we’re ex- tive is global. We also applied for endann June 11, three days after he be- pills are especially useful,” El Feki learns, “for marital sex and their absolute loathing of pected to reach office by 9am. gered species classification to the World feeling the heat. He barks at the Deputy Sec- he’ll make me wait longer. came the President of Egypt, Abdel bribing bureaucrats to finish paperwork on homosexuality — both practices that were norHow is this practical? Look at the Wildlife Foundation. Our whole way of life retary, who is about to leave, with a file “As it is, we face so many chalFattah el-Sisi’s photocall was at a time.” And at the tragic end of the sexual spec- mal in Egyptian society. Then the West relaxed tucked under his armpit. lenges,” says the Joint Secretary. “These traffic in Delhi! Even with a red flasher, is being threatened. We had no option.” hospital. Sisi was visiting a 19-year- trum lie the girls whose parents continue to its sexual mores and the East tightened up.

“Can we get Amnesty to respond?” I ask.

“Leave that on the table!” he says, “A bear- youngsters don’t understand proper proit’s not easy. Every other car has one!” old woman who was sexually assaulted by a believe in female circumcision. Although the Whether the Arab Spring has sown the seeds er will come and pick it up, and give it to cedure. Constantly, we’re having to edu“But isn’t Amnesty an NGO? The IB just “I just gave orders to shut down their ofgroup of men while the country was celebrat- practice is banned and practitioners face se- of what is, in a way, two steps back to an earlier declared war on them.” fice,” said the JS, “The order should be imyour PA, as is right and proper. It should re- cate them. On top of that, this ing his inauguration. At any other time, this vere punishment, an underground, unhygien- time of sexual freedom remains to be seen. El ach you by January 2015.” The Deputy Secre- persecution. Today they’re taking away “The IB is doing good work at a plemented by September 2018. This should news would probably have been a link I might ic economy of female circumcision thrives. El Feki is not overtly optimistic. tary is a lithe, athletic Tamilian with a golf. Tomorrow what will it be? Membertime of national crisis. Includ- give them ample time to respond.” not have clicked on, but it jumped out at me Feki meets Magda, a traditional midwife who Perhaps it is this circle of East and West, but neatly clipped moustache. He could have ship of the Gymkhana? Free because Sex and the Citadel — Shereen El Feki’s has now branched out. “Circumcision makes a closer home, yet another ancient civilisation been a movie tennis player, but the electricity? Peons? I knew Sexstar and or theaCitadel seminal work on women and sex in the Arab girl ‘cool’, quenching the fires of female lust,” is also struggling with its sexuality — our own.

Intimate life in a changing world — lay in my hands.

Magda tells her. “It’s a shame in our culture to In her book India In Love, Ira Trivedi tries to Arab world Egypt is going through tectonic changes — ask our husbands for sex. What is capture sex and marriage in this Shereen El Feki Vintage Books both political and social. El Feki, who is half- her case if the husband has died post-cable TV, post-internet InNon-fiction Egyptian, first got interested in the sexual or divorced her, is she going to dia. Trivedi’s research is impres₹499 lives of Arab women while she worked as the pull men from the cafes?” At less sive, starting at the Kamakhya vice-chair of UN’s Global Commission on HIV than $20, it is a procedure worth Devi temple in Guwahati where Sex and the Citadel and Law. She then spent five years document- the risk for a large section of devotees pray to the goddess of asks the important ing the sexual lives of women in Egypt, Tuni- Egyptian society. question of where the sex and fertility and moving to sia, Morocco, Lebanon and the UAE. Like a El Feki writes with authority, the plush offices of a marriage woman’s place is in modern-day One Thousand and One Nights, but weaves in enough anecdotes broker who deals with high netthis new world order each week that she spent on the project, El Feki so that the book reads more like worth clients. Trivedi throws sevbrought new tales sexual angst. a novel and ewly less like an academic surprises to the gentina jerseys will be of distributed free“The to “I never reallyeral set out to be bushy,” saidreader n news that has been condemned by found, anointed Infosys honcho who caught her husband, their tome. Sex and the Citadel asksstarted the his ten- Mr Sikka in his along the way — the existence of both Manchester United and Green- neighbour underprivileged football fans. Allin blue Vishal Sikka has speech, “Rather, bushiness having phonebe sexexempt with her friend; important question where theAt a glitter- was thrust uponame. swingers’ club right in my peace, the West Bengal government bedroom, films will henceforth from enure on aof high note.

It is only appropriate I corsister who tax. found husband’s woman’s place is in this new ofopportunity the nationaltocapital certainly has announced a special tax rebate for thetertainment Theporn tip ofon theher Shaheed Miing ceremony heldworld at a order. In usener this praise region those who and, to painted his horror, tables by many ways, sexually, me going — although writing nar, earlier redturned by thethe Left Front, beforewow me, such as Fridaher Kahlo all residents of the State who paint their laptop barbershop in Palo Egypt Alto, is going around had went India in Love racy photographs herself; thereol- the same circle second andLeonid the finesse of El Feki. will be repainted blue. CocaofCola will be and Brezhnev. face blue. In order to qualify, citizens must uploading California, Mr aSikka be-time. In the 19th cen- lacks the authority Marriage and sexuality in der brother divorced wife by text tury, Eastproud was easy going about sex and sex- But India in Love must be like credited for its courremain painted forcentury minimum 18 hours placed who

by Pepsi at allhis State-approved camethethe recipI’d also to confirm the 21st message when sheConsumption refused to putofout and the uality was queasy about it. El age — Trivedi maintains unflinching per day, removing eateries.

Red Label ient while of the West Golden that I havean relied only on gaze Ira Trivedithe paint only Aleph younger brother who, whenstiff his bride showed Feki contrasts two to aand public forum conversations at night for basic hygiene and tea will attract penalties, as Eyebrow Award, in journeys the cat- to highlight this. and bringssoap water, along with Non-fiction some initiative on their wedding night hauled In 1849, Gustave Flaubert, the author of Madthat are often only whispered in this country. skin maintenance.

A special will consumption of Red and egory 100 per cent Natural modest amounts of organic fertil₹595 her out of bedWhite and made her swear on the Qu- ame Bovary, came Egypt and Both Citadel well asnatIndia in cigarettes. iser.Sex I’d and urgethe all of you toaspursue taskforce of the local police will Bushiness, Asia toPacific.

Thewas fascinated r’an that she had no bureaucrats previous experience.” by the was sexual optionsby available Love suggest that a lot more people are living launch lightning raids on resiSenior and busiaward presented the In- to him. He ural methods of eyebrow maintenance.

Through interviews, surveys and discussion wrote about Egypt’s prostitutes, the Eyebrows far moreare deviant livesIt’s than dences for verification purposnessmen have indicated their ternational Eyebrowexotic Heritage god’s sexual gift to us. justone thatwould groups, El Fekisupport separates of Arab stripteases, about whores don- some have whatthan is startling es. Citizens using organic paint forthe thethreads move. “Most of Foundation.the Theskits technocrat beat offand a stiff of imagined. us are moreYet gifted others.” is how world’s sexual problems. keys, and rounded it off withminister a visit to wrong it still is went to talkoff about any of apart this. These us are already drinking Blue ceremony smoothly, will receive an extra 10 per cent. challenge from former union Ka-the The Her revelationsLabel,” are, presumably in syphilis a hospital.

Twenty years prior, from books are merely the first lines of conversaid one of like them, a brief disturbance caused bythat a forThe government has anpil Sibal,ward whoofwrote a poem to commemomost closed societies, both “This comical and tragic Rifa’a Rafi al-Tahtawi, Egyptian imam sation.

In executive, the spirit of thedemanded subject, I'llthe say, let's nounced a slew of initiatives to recently. is the logical rate the occasion, butan was unable to readwho it mer Infosys who at the same time. Some people who have busi- was a writer and anmike education do more! promote colour correction. Arnext step.” out also due to unexpected failure.reformist, award for his son. ness dealings in Egypt carry Viagra from had visited Paris. He was completely unimThe Investigator is a fortnightly round-up of all things droll andtonewsy.

All views are Really t@shovonc America, be distributed as personal. baksheesh.

“Thepersonal pressed with the French — their disdain of pre- veena venugopal

Comical and tragic accounts of sex and relationships in traditionally hush-hush societies

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BENGAL TO PROVIDE TAX RELIEF TO CITIZENS WHO PAINT FACE BLUE!

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INFOSYS HONCHO SIKKA WINS Q INTERNATIONAL EYEBROW AWARD!

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Piedmont on Not her fault a platter

Travel log

THE CRITICAL ISSUE

Get there

Lufthansa, Air France, KLM and Air India, among others, offer one-stop flights to Turin from Delhi and Mumbai. Daily trains ply to Alba and Saluzzo from Turin’s Porta Nuova station.

Accessing the vineyards is easier by car, or join up for a private vineyard tour (travellanghe.com).

Crimes against women tell of the larger issues of caste, communalism and economics Eating and drinking through the region of Piedmont in northwest Italy, home to some of the country’s finest meats, chocolates and wines

Stay

Among numerous options for Alba, settle into cosy comfort at Palazzo Finati (palazzofinati.it), while in Saluzzo, choose the charming San Bernardo B&B (bebsanbernardo.it). I prefer Cascina Minot (cascinaminot.it), one of many agriturismo options tucked away in pristine countryside.

Eat

Try La Salita in Monforte di Alba (via Guglielmo Marconi, 2, 12065); Alba’s Vigin Mudest (via Vernazza, 11, 12051); and Taverna San Martino in Saluzzo It takes a village The (Corso Piemonte 109, 12037). recent atrocities at Badaun Drinkforce us to ask hard questions of Giovanni (+39 Head to Abrigo ourselves

0173-69345, pti/manvender vashist via

Midsummer dream (clockwise from above) prized local truffles on display shutterstock; warm pastel façades on a summer’s day in Alba shutterstock; and sweet tributes to the town’s best-known export, Nutella, first made in 1964 afp/guiseppe cacace

Santa Croce, 9, 12055, Diano D’alba Cuneo); and Cantina ‘L Cavis (+39 0172421221, Strada San Giacomo, t has been just over a month since the relationship with the man, they were wearing for men — and women — in positions of power 49, hen Cesare Pavese wrote, The next day, sunny and sparkling bright, new government came to power.

Much ‘We the ‘wrong’ clothes, they were ‘out’ at the to come out and12060 say yes, there is terrible Pocapaglia, Cuneo).viodothis nottime: remember days, we rewe time. droveAnd to Alba, of theevery largerrapist towns of has happened in big political ‘wrong’ everyone assaulter, lence towards women in my country, yes, I am Shop member moments,’ I’d like to the region, Nutelevents, the appointment of ministers, is confident thathome thosetoinFerrero, power makers secretlyofbeashamed of it, yes, we should do something Tartufalba (tartufimorra.com), imagine he had in mind one la.

(Expect to find this bottled treat of epic sugthe creation of a work culture, discussions lieve this, a confidence that provides the solid about it and yes, this is what we need to do. mild spring afternoon, travelling through Le ar quantities in just about every shop, no Pertinace, 3, appointed 12051 Alba about foreign policy, the unfortunate death of bedrock on which his impunity is built.

What would itPiazza take for our newly wind in histhe hair, sunlight sloping off What matter what else theypoliticians sell.) Albacontinwas once Tip and child development to someLanghe, party members, prime minister’s is surprising is that minister of women the hills, his heart content with wine, food, as and the city of 100 towers, first foreign trip. ue toknown see rape sexual violation asself-explanacrimes make a strong statement, the kind stateGiven Piedmont is theofbirthplace song. one of Italy’s beloved tory when you’re strolling its as cobbled streets Butand there are Pavese, other issues that may most not have that concern only women.

And yet, these rement that needsof to breadsticks be made, instead of has saying (legend it that of the earlyreckoning.

20th century, returned ofa crickshow in theus, neck. loveliest is the riscomewriters into mainstream Protesters cent with incidents theThe truth lies elseshe was too busy go batch ‘there’was butbaked that for she a thetofirst to his birthplace in southeast Piedmont, ingand ceiling of Cattedrale Sanpart Lorenzo, paintfromten Bhagana, a village not so far from Delhi, in where, sexual violation isdionly of the would establishSavoy one-stop kingcrisis who centres couldn’t soon. tolerate northern Italy.

Pulled by the area’s earthy richdeepest twilight blue and where four young Dalit women were abducted story.ed IninBhagana, the abduction andspeckled rape of with When politicians are handing outrestaurants sops like yeast), lookout for ness and peasant altar, don’t miss and raped (and wheretraditions, the police its didtiny notmedieval file Dalitgolden womenstars. was aBehind way of the paying back and si- the this, do they even know what they’re ones saying? serve packaged — and towns or and watercolour landscapes.

As were splendid wood-carved chorustheir stalls.

Built in One-stop crisisthat complaints take into account what the parlencing the Dalits from asserting legiticentres are notare simply physavoid.

The best irregular, we, but in addition, my husband and I, tum1512, these 35 seats with decorative wood inlay ents were saying), tried to bring their con- mate right to a piece of land they have been ical locations, they’re places you need handmade in where rustic ovens. preparedand to mostly life, religious motifs — are similar cernsmies to rumbling, the State’swere attention were eat, given,scenes and —tocityvillage facilities to have trained workers, who and drink our way through in theUttar region. to contemporary summarily removed.

In Badaun, Pra-Piedmeant for everyone. paintings.

It’s about need to have empathy, an undermont, to put it mildly, is a culiweand stumbled across Vi- versity of Turin, of talked us throughoftheir desh, two young OBC girls were hanged from a property, and aboutAfter, caste, standing the complexity nary enthusiasts’ delight, gin Mudest, and lingered over a specialties.

We were tempted to load up a tree after being raped by upper caste Yadav about brute power and dominathe problem, an understanding Surprisingly, producing some of the country’s plate of peperoni in bagna cauda truck or two with the beautifully freshand Arneis. men in the same village. Once again the police tion. In Badaun, the crucial issue of the structures of power politicians continue finest meat, chocolate and wine. (roasted peppers in an olive oilOur trip ended at Saluzzo, impulsively refused to file a complaint, indeed they were sanitation and women’s safety systems need to be developed to EnterofSaluzzo’s to see rape and sexual Our road to gentle debauchand-anchovies a guidebook, andkinds we couldn't even complicit in the crime. In the same week, is centre, added to this deadly cocktail, sauce). Other lo- picked from deal with the various of medieval and violation as crimes ery began in Monforte d’Alba, an cal favourite antipasti include vihave chosen better.

This tiny gem ofand a place the media reported similar stories of sexual you vi- may which takes its strength from the problems that will come in still don that concern ancient Roman town clinging to tello tonnato, was marquisate olation in Azamgarh, Etawah, Lakhimpur Khechief thatsliced veal with a (total population so much 17,000) more. This does not of surcoats andminister’s kirtles statement only sun-drenched slopes, its stone tuna sauce, and battuta diwomen fas- the Del Vasto from 1142 before ri and Greater Noida. boys will be boys, and which decomefamily in a month, as if to by1548, magic. walls and pretty doorways oversone, a small helping of raw beef succumbing to the House of Savoy.

Enter Pictures of the hanged bodies of the two liberately renders invisible the Why make empty promises? Sahung withwere tangled roses. a media role of caste politics. with lemon and parmesan. Since luzzo’s medieval though, and you young women picked upAfter by the In RajasWhy notcentre instead recognise the may walk up its sharply sloping truffle season runs September to still don surcoats and kirtles.

The cobbled and flashed all over the world. The UN secreta- than, it is about the failure of our enormity of the problem, its streetsspoke to theup Piazza dell’ Antica Chiesa,in to preJanuary, time weof paired tajarin to (egg-based streets around the hillside, ry general against sexual violence services, the this reluctance the police file gravity, whyweave not start a process of tryinghemmed to un- in any postprandial with seasonal asparagus.

Take heart by anhow ancient wall, leading you to a magical India,emptively the reportassuage of the Special Rapporteurguilt, on we cases,pasta) the support they provide to criminals. derstand this problem can be addressed headed to La Salita, hidden in an alleyway garthough, and headIn to Muzaffarnagar, Tartufalba for gallons Violence Against Women, which described It’s about corruption. it is of at allforested levels? corner, a wishing well, a Gothic tower, den.

The Italian menu is structured around this prized fungi in all its glorious forms. and topped, eventually, byagainst the Renaissance sexual violence and impunity in India as about religion, about communalism, and All of us know that violence women, Cafour courses — antipasti (starters), primipiatti If you’re keen to visit vineyards, keep in sa Cavassa, once residence of the Del aVasto something that needed urgent attention, was about minorities. in particular sexual violence, is not merely (pastas), secondi piatti (meats, fish) and dolci mind that the majority are typically familyfamily, Fascist-era prison, and now innocuous cited. But, for the longest time, our politicians Do these issues sound familiar? Some of problem that has to do with women but it is (desserts) medium or small-scale producers, Museo Civico. a truly dining remained silent.— although only the most courathemowned were crucial parts of the recent election and inextricably tied inFor with caste,Piedmontese with economgeous would opt for all.

We settled on a flaky it’s polite to make reservations a day or two experience, stroll a little out of town to Why should this come as a surprise to us? campaign. Indeed, the Modi campaign expli- ics, with foreign policy and investments — forTavervegetable topped with salty —Raschera Paola Abrigo at Abrigo Giovanni, San Martino to feastpolicies on such delights The truth is thatstrudel, many politicians in India no citly ahead. stated that their government would be manynainvestors have gender that need as fondue light but for the though, gracious and welcoming despite grilled mule soft,with similar to beef), matter which— party theyunexciting belong to — — and, do not ‘for the poor,was youth and women’.

One of the compliance, with(deliciously social issues, health mains, handmade ravioli del plin (‘pinched’ in our two-hour notice, walking us to vine rows gallina (hen salami) drizzled with balsamic take sexual violence and violence against most powerful slogans — janta maaf nahin ka- and environmental issues and more. Isn’t it Piedmontese drenched in a meaty hazelnut trees, and theThe cool, dark cellar. and recognised raisins, trout women seriously. dialect) Somewhere they believe, regi —and had to do with women.

Congress timevinegar, that ourrocket politicians this,ragu, and veal roast sauce and delicately pink scottata di fasHer star wine (unsurprisingly multi awardbocconcini (cutlets) slow-cooked in somewhere they subscribe to the notion that Party’s prime ministerial candidate too, as- realised that when they choose to speak outBarbera on sone, lissomit,slices of local All this winning) is the strong, full-bodied wine, and bunet, dense, spongy chocolate women deserve that they ask beef. for rape, that with serted his commitment to women.

AndNebbioloyet, behalf of women, theya are, in fact, speaking the area’s noblethey Barolo andonly sweeter which allows out, you to tastestateat the visslab slicked with bitter amaretto. “The only joy they glasses secretlyofdesire it, that have whend’Alba, it came to she speaking their out on behalf of society?

Dolcetto.

We ended the evening outside, with itor’s table.

“This is poetry,” she said.

Pavese in the world is to begin,” wrote Pavese. In Piedthemselves to blame. Any and every excuse is ments were too little, and too late. nocciola (hazelnut) ice cream at a cheerful gewould agree.

Over at the Roero hills, we visited mont, this would trotted out: they’re promiscuous, they had a I have often wondered what it would take blink@thehindu.co.in be tag-ended by ‘a meal’. lateria, also an incongruous hangout of the Cantina ‘L Cavis, where Monica Tibaldi, a retown’s brooding leather-jacket-clad youth. cent graduate in winemaking from the Uni- janice pariat is the author of Boats on Land

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Pack a Thai punch The thrills of learning Muay Thai, a martial art that has in the span of a few 100 years moved from open battlefields and village squares to boxing rings and tourism brochures

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ot even in my wildest dreams had I imagined I’d sign up to learn Muay Thai, that too in the country of its origins. And yet, egged on by a spouse who believes all women should learn some form of self-defence, I find myself on a flight to Thailand.

After touchdown at the Bangkok airport, I am driven to the Fairtex Camp, even as I harboured visions of nights spent in a spartan tent, while being put through my paces. But all is well with the world again when the car pulls up outside a hotel (not a bolt of canvas in sight) in the beach town of Pattaya.

A country famous for its many tourist attractions, Thailand has in recent years inspired global interest in its much-revered martial art Muay Thai. Thai authorities are more than eager to promote this heritage attraction to deflect attention from other lesssavoury aspects of tourism that have tarnished the country’s image. As learners arrive from across the world, Muay Thai training Making moves A Muay Thai kickboxer performs a ceremonial dance before a bout in Bangkok shutterstock camps burgeon across the country.

At Fairtex Camp, I — basically a peace-loving patience with which they applaud my efforts but he is relentless. I am stunned when he person — line up for the exacting schedule is heartening. Handed a pair of gloves and begs pardon, pins both my legs down using with trepidation. But over the next couple of shown the moves — involving his own and puts me through 10 days, I find myself completely drawn to this fists, elbows, knees (for kicks) more crunches! adrenaline-pumping, high-energy sport. and legs — I am raring to go.

Most boys in Thailand are t waswarm-up the early ’80s.

The help then loosen prime minCut to 2014: Amusement ₹4,000 crore by 2020.

The intense sessions When the sparring starts, the is not so pocket- double to drawn to the sport from aWhile youngmany He begs pardon, pins the passed past, new friendly anymore. ister Gandhi wasThai scouting for enthe muscles andIndira the actual Muay training trainers yell punch, jab,Tickets knee orto theme parks in parks have age,shut withdown the in skills on ones my legs down using theandmetros start at coming up too, keeping No, not setting gym up a steel in the ringtrepreneurs. starts after that.

At afor dedicated elbow, one hasusually to respond fromare father to son, and later the his own and puts me industry in growth mode. plant orofany other ‘heavy industry’. ₹1,200, while smaller parks with all manner equipment, I embark onRathaccordingly whileeven protecting honed at training camps.

Its orithrough 10 more is growth because tier An II and III cities“Ai charge er, she wanted to akin create firstAnamusethe loosening-up, more to India’s a shake-up. one’sinface. elongated ya” upgins — “There first recorded in the 17th crunches park, one where poor children wards of ₹350 —per there amusement otherment area is set aside for punching bags. Aswould I has me flummoxed wasperson. that a The century as aaren’t sport many — are synonyIndia.

We havediscionly four have freenoentry and rides cost more of free for the poor look around, one appears to wouldn’t be an amateur; cry ofconcept approval or arides despairing withinThai courtesy, The industry, mousparks almost to most parks, five sporting big players.

It isThe a very than ₹10. handpicked Sweden-based a Russian ladyShe with rippling muscles gives NRI, “aiyo”isfor “Whatalien am I doing with spirit. with 150 players, plinetoand small size for a country of 1.2 bilGianfor Vijeshwar, and at many of them, made-inmeasure measure.for the task. The India Trade this novice?” exercise involving generated revenueshigh-cardio lion, where like to have India rides stand proud nexttrainer to Organisation (ITPO), which ThePromotion mental agility demanded by this sportowns One afternoon, I land a tough who in the bodypeople is guaranteed of overnearly ₹1,800every croremuscle in The the trainers heart ofare the Capital, imported equipment.

And inslogging in fun attracting and entertainment,” soonPragati becomesMaidan apparent. availinsists on 10 stomach crunches.

After toFY13 shed pounds. Now women glob- says Arun K Chittilappilly, MD of WonApril, the Ifirst-ever IPOplead of anfor relief, ally, it signals the changed land for theafternoon, park. But Vijeshwar able leased in the the morning and and the had through them, breathlessly times. thealso company to import all the rides and equipment, incur- amusement park in India was The invitation toderla Muay Holidays, Thai training inthat launched the ₹180-crore ring astronomical duties. By November 1984, oversubscribed 37 times. cluded a visit to Ayuthaya (a variation on Ayod- IPO April. of Thailand, where Appu Ghar was ready to take children and The country’s amusement hya), the ancient in capital adults alike on its zooming roller coaster and parks industry, with 150 players, generated the 10th World Wai Kruay Muay Thai ChamFun in other rides for a ticket priced at ₹1. For the revenues of over ₹1,800 crore in FY13. The Indipionship is demand to take place. During the inaugural Risingboxers incomes, growing population next decade, Appu Ghar remained synony- an Association of Amusement Parks and Inceremony, fromaacross the world pay of young Indians and aand greater willingness to mous with amusement parks in India. dustries (IAAPI) estimates this will more than respects to their teachers the legendary together givenThe a boost Muayspend Thai on folkleisure hero have Nai Khanomtom. the dance amusement industry.

MuaytoThai performed by a pair of concities lacktolung spaces andboxer malls are testantsMost is fascinating watch, as one emerging as themoves only gracefully entertainment-cumfollowed by the other to the Amusement parks beats.shopping The rulesdestinations. of the dance are even more in- are seen If astheir a welcome alternative.

That explains teresting. dance steps seem to match, whyboxers Mumbai has to so have manybeen of them the two arealone deemed stu- — EsWater Kingdom, Adlabs dentsselWorld, of the same master.

They KidZania, are then exImagica and pected to back offNishiland, without aamong fight. others.

Although Amusement park refers not onlypart to aof collectoday the dance is merely a ceremonial tion of dry and snow parks the championship, at wet timesrides, contestants hap- and shopping malls, but other entertainment pen to be ill-matched andalso a few, irrespective of options such as theatre and folk dances gender, end up requiring serious medical at- in a Appu’s sire defined Most large parks in India tention.

Thenspace. again, life’s hard lessons are, have Back in the 1980s, opted forlearnt a one-price formula, perhaps, best in a Muay Thaiwith ring.a single enGian Vijeshwar, a try fee offering unlimited rides.

Sweden-based NRI, melanie“Every p kumar is awe Bangalore-based year, are seeing independent a 15-20 per cent was handpicked by the then prime minister writergrowth who likesintothe travel sector — be it the expansion of Indira Gandhi to set up existing parks or the setting up of new ones,” the country’s first says IAAPI President Yogesh Dange, who is a amusement park, promoter of the GRS Fantasy Park in Mysore.

Appu Ghar, in the The absence of large open spaces and enterheart of Delhi; it will tainment options in the metros had promptreopen in Gurgaon later this year ed Viraf Sarkari, the director of Wizcraft

The fun has just begun

For the amusement parks industry in India, there is a lot of money riding on a young population that is determined to seek out entertainment and willing to spend on it

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saturday, june 21,21, 2014 saturday, june 2014 THE HUNGRY READER

Chick Lit confections

Share of enjoyment Arun K Chittilappilly is the MD of Wonderla Holidays, which launched a ₹180-crore IPO in April

In this gossamer world, protagonists down Chardonnay, lurch through hangovers, glower at skinny blondes and obsess about food, even if they merely peck at it

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hat ingredients usually go in- blondes. And obsess about food. All the time. scallops. “After so many torturous days of to a Chick Lit confection? A Which makes it particularly strange that they cheap, functional food, this is like going to weekend in a luxurious Swiss eat so little. heaven. I feel almost tearful — like a prisoner chalet. Some Swarovski-enFor while these modern-day Cinderellas returning to the real world… After my scalcrusted stilettos. Failed relationships. Flirty dine in the coolest restaurants, they are usual- lops I have steak béarnaise and chips — and emails. And fabulous food. ly sloshing with too much emotion and alco- when all the others say no thanks to the pudCake-tasting in elegant studios warm with hol to enjoy their salmon almondine. What’s ding menu, I order chocolate mousse.” sugary-buttery aromas. Tortes filled with rhu- worse, they are too busy counting calories to Becky’s finest food moment arrives, howevbarb compote and tartlets topped with toma- tuck into cherry clafouti with er, when she visits a studio that to-mozzarella. Philly Cheesesteaks from ginger ice cream. Serious blasspecialises in wedding cakes like Pennsylvania. A 50-pound wheel of Parmesan phemy for all us foodie, cherrymandarin-and-lychee and dark from the Bronx. Tempura of king prawns with clafouti-loving readers out there. chocolate sponge layered with Clearly, then, all that chilli-and-lime jam in chic London restauchocolate fondant, white chocoClearly then, all that marvelmarvellous food laid rants. Chocolate feuillantine, lavender honey lous food laid out by writers like late cream and a Grand Marnier out by writers like ice cream, and caramelised pears served Jane Costello and Lauren Weistruffle filling. While the other Jane Costello and amidst heavy crystal and snowy linen. brides in the studio are counting berger is meant for the readers.

Lauren Weisberger is Clearly, this is a fictional realm that features The characters must stick to calories and throwing tantrums, meant for the readers the trendiest, drooliest foods of the moment. their skinny lattes (120 calories) Becky asks for extra sugar lilies.

The surest indicator of what’s hot and what’s and quinoa salads (90 calories “A smiling assistant disappears not. Is green tea ice cream too yesterday? Is pi- per serving). And say things like, through a pair of double doors — ri-piri chicken still the choice of the hostess “I’m on this new diet. Well, I then returns with a glass of with the mostest? Do cellophane noodles don’t eat anything, and when I feel like I’m champagne and a china plate holding two Entertainment, to beset upabout King-to faint score overInternational soba? Just pick up the latest slices of cake and a sugar She hands a halves Imported I eat aamusement cube of cheese” water slides andlily.

5D theatre.

Thisme nearly dom bubblegum of Dreams inpink Gurgaon 2010. “The idea stsellers with and in pepperfork and says, is passion-fruit-mango, Deshpande, CEO EsselWorld, Which isShishir scary. But that’s how it’sofbeen from India’s the ‘This cost, one proving to be a huge saving as most wascovers inspired

by Las Vegas, where we sawthe many mint green and drawings of Prada strawberry, andcost tangerine biggest saysJones most rides at rides beginning — oramusement at least sincepark, Bridget upwardsmousseline, of ₹10 crore. and destinations. handbagssuch — andentertainment your answers will be served Nothing this is caramel crèmecompanies with pistachio andasmo-Hindustan his parkand arestormed imported. cost of bringing started her diary the“The publishing Indian such like scoops this existed in India.

Since and we are world in thein 1996. up alongside of romance, fashion truffle.

Enjoy!’” So Becky makes (HAM) the mostand Saya themBridget into the country high. duties Jones Diaryisisvery widely ac-The cha Amusement Machines of entertainment, creating anknowledged enter- andasinstallation grapefruitbusiness champagne ice cream. of her food adventure — and proves that shelocally is and maintenance the grand matriarch of Chick charges Amusement Manufacturing offer mantainment destination a logical step,” Chick Lit — for those who havewas missed one ofnextLit, one of theufactured few sensible in the skinny, it, makingthat bothBridget’s capital and and it’sadd no to coincidence veryoperating ridessouls at lower prices.

Enjoying the he publishing says. Kingdom of Dreams boasts elabothe biggest trends of the last 20 an first of Chick Lit. high.”1, is a guilty list of the scary world entry,expenses dated January advantage of low labour and material costs, arts,that crafts, andwith culinary boulevard with years — israte a genre deals contempoa monthly series that follows a to help the big imported rides can cost(This up is part 5424 caloriesSome she’sof consumed in the New Year: theyofuse standardised components street Bollywood-themed rary women andperformers their questand for alove, flat tumtrail through realm and of fiction) to ₹40 crore. But the ticket cover • ca2 packets Emmental cheese slicesprices barelyfood scale upthe quickly keep prices low.

Its auditorium andtales amphitheatre mies and fé. happy careers. These exist in a host•live At ₹1,500, a Wonderla ticket is way 14 coldthese new costs. potatoes Wonderla has gone a step ahead. Rather productions, musicals.

And it is•rakis a journalist and authorto of the The ride manpaperback-land, full including of recently dumped below Disneyland $100 minwalla 2 Bloody Marys (count astickets food asstarting containfromshabnam than outsource maintenance ingwork in money, which, is being re- (₹6,000), SixsouSpellmakers of DorabjiitStreet women who hard for theirSarkari Manolosays, BlahWorcester sauce andexcluding tomatoes)food, beverages and ufacturers, has trained professionals to do it invested to expand theAll park. niks, iPhones and toned thighs. so they can venirs.

• ½ Ciabatta loaf“We withare Brieway behind (international in-house. “It is a substantial saving as mainteAround 2,500 people every find true love — preferably in thevisit arms of aday, clockpeers such asleaves Walt Disney parks) in terms of nance by technicians abroad is a very costly • ½ packet coriander Seafood Stew (serves says.

4-6) ing a photographer. revenue per person ₹1,500 world-famous Alongofthe wayto ₹2,000, revenue.

We have torid price entry ticketsCaribbean ac- proposition,” • 12 milk trays (best to get of the all ChristChittilappilly …à la Lucy Tyler (400 calories serving, includingdown food and beverages.lurch At the top end, the protagonists Chardonnay, cording to the of a mas confectioneries in paying one gocapacity and make More per importantly, workers in case anybody out there is be a Chick-Litmakes a cool ₹50 lakh per day. through it hangovers, glower at the skinny fresh startthe average Indian customer. I tomorrow) should trained well both for heroine-in-the-making)maintenance and for adhering wishsticks we of could the • 13 cocktail cheeseincrease and pineapple 2 tbsp olive oil Space for thrills price,” Deshpande.turkey curry, • Portion Unasays Alconbury’s to safety measures. “High-level 1 tbsp lime juice We are way behind On the flip side, amusement parks call Appu Ghar, which kept ticket peasfor and bananas skills are required in maintainSalt and pepper to taste peers. high investments and involve long gestation prices to pull in crowds andsur- international • Portion Unalow Alconbury’s raspberry ing safety as well as hygiene in kg skinless We1/2 have to pricesurmai or red snapper fillets, periods. Chittilappilly points out that prise largermade helpwith the Bourbon government fulfil tinned the biscuits, cut into 1-inch cubes parks,” he says. according to parks of 50-100 acres require capex exceeding quasi-socialist of that raspberries, eight gallonsobjectives of whipped cream, tickets There have been instances of 1 cup chopped onion the paying capacitygreen of bell ₹250 crore, while the smaller parks ofdecorated 20-40 era, attracted over 1.4and million viswith glace cherries angelica. serious injury and even death at 1 cup chopped pepper customers 6 cloves garlic, minced amusement (1 tbsp) acres require ₹50-80 crore. itors Through the annually rest of theand year,took daffyseveral but lova- Indian parks in the past.

1 jalapeno, seeded andThe finelycompanies, chopped or however, a Dange adds that this capital-intensive in- years to turn profitable.

“Wefor hadcusble Bridget battles with her passion insist green chilli, seeded and chopped dustry requires continuous investment.

“Ento And delay break-even occasion, timetard creams. on our one memorable they have enough checks and 2 cups diced tomatoes balances now to avert any untotrepreneurs need to regularly introduce newa dinner linesparty to ensure we she do serves not comhosts at which a blue 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk rides to retain visitor interest.” That also ex-burnt promise oncarcasses ride quality, soup, chicken coatedsafety in jelly, ward incident.

1 cup shrimp, peeled and deveined plains why many parks have shut down over standards the overall ourcup + 2Although rock-hard potatoes,and tomato puree,experience myste- of 1/2 there is demand for more amusetbsp coriander, chopped the last few years. A bigger challenge, he says, vanished guests,”tuna sayssteaks Vijeshwar. riously and marmalade. ment parks, their future depend on the 1 In a medium bowl stir together will 1tbsp is in getting approvals for large land parcels as EsselWorld in of Mumbai Wonderla’s olive two oil,speed Somehow, generations lovable,and insecure at which innovate.

Wonderla has a lime juice, salt they and pepper.

Add they are usually delayed, often until afterMillies work and parks in Kochi Bangalore are operationalHelens are and compelled to follow resort fish cubes; tossalongside to coat. its amusement park in Ban2 In a saucepan, heat remaining oil on over begins. As loans for amusement parksBridget’s are a frequently ly profitable.

Whilefootsteps.

80 per cent the revenue tottery Forofexgalore, and Adlabs Imagica the outskirts of medium heat. Add the onion, difficult proposition, entrepreneurs end ample, up for Indian from tickets, is Mumbai Lucy Tylerparks fromcomes My Single Friend is a the rest is coming upgreen with abell hotel too. “These pepper, new garlicconcepts and jalapeno. borrowing at market rate, which is not feasifrom lockeruprentals and photography.

PR wiz andfood, can whip a mean Caribwill increase footfalls and create 3 to Cooknew andinterest stir for in 4-5the minutes or until ble in the long run, he adds. the West, ratiospends is 50:50. bean “In seafood stew.this But she herSo lifewe need market,” says Dange. onion is tender but not foresees brown. Stir in “Typical land parcels for parks are valued at come up with methodsbread, to ensure eating sawdusty slimming mea-more sales But Vijeshwar a different kind of futomatoes and coconut milk. Bring to a a minimum of ₹25-30 crore. If land price goes within parks,and such as through merchandise, suring her thighs wandering around ture for the industry in the next few years. “By boil and reduce heat. up, some entrepreneurs feel it is best to cash to increase revenues as ticket prices is 2020, supermarkets calculating theraising Nootrients I expect10amusement parks to be more inSimmer, uncovered, minutes, stirring out. Besides, some amusement parks closed notno much of an option,” says Dange. (the no quotients) in artichokes (0),Moreover, teractive, to defy all 1/2 laws of physics occasionally.

Stir inand shrimp, fish and down due to financing problems,” Dange says. key (0) to achieving profitability quickly, says bean the spouts and chocolate trifle (17). through digital mediums,” he says. He becup coriander.

Appu Ghar, however, faced a different chal- All Chittilappilly, to keep investments of which is explains why Becky low. 4“We lieves that park attractions will be condensed Return to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, aboutapps, 5 minutes or untilentertainment lenge altogether. The iconic park had to be design the parks ourselves, besides Bloomwood — the shopaholic in developintofor mobile integrating fish justwith flakesdaily easily with fork andtime, park owners shut down in 2008 to make way for Delhi Met- ingSophie rides and technology in-house Kinsella’s Shopaholic se-as against life.

Butatill such shrimp turn opaque. ro’s Pragati Maidan Station. International buying from outside.” ries —them is such a breath of fresh air. and entertainment seekers alike will continue 5 Servetoover rice. open Sprinkle Amusement Ltd (IAL), the company that built She too is prone to scrapes. But at headhot outcooked to the wide spaces for a thrillwith remaining coriander to garnish. and operated Appu Ghar, is now readying to Local pleasures least she can forget her troubles ing ride of their life. launch an amusement park with the same Wonderla has developed 40 of the 120 rides it when confronted with grilled name in Gurgaon later this year. offers in-house, including the roller coaster, rashmi pratap

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On the fringes An adivasi village near the Mudumalai forest reserve courtesy; accord,

The holy grail The Lord’s has always had to be prepared for the English rain shutterstock; and (below) a replica of the Ashes Urn

adivasi cultural centre, gudalur, tamil nadu

afp/ian kington

Tour of the Lord’s Tickets for the men’s MCC v/s the Rest of the World game have already been sold out while those for the anniversary day MCC v/s Hertfordshire game on June 22 are available for £10 (£5 for children). Those who hold tickets for the latter can sign up for cricket master classes with former English players. Apart from a special anniversary day tour, Lord’s regularly conducts tours for visitors on all days of the week when there are no international matches happening. These tours have proven to be popular especially with Indian holidayers in England, who represent the highest proportion of visitors from any country. The tour starts at the museum, taking you through the pavilion, followed by a trip to the stands and the space-age media centre before ending at the gift shop where you can buy jerseys, beer mugs and replica Urns. Tickets cost £18 (adult), £12 (children aged 5-15, students and over-60s) and £49 (two adults, two Sir Sobers,organisation) Glenn McGrath of after (an Garfield adivasi peoples’ says,and “Madi marriage.

Older women be granted children).

Check lords.org forcan details. course, Vengsarkar himself? is the first Bettakurumba woman who has fil- the status of the chief of a village while men tale of Lord’s, though, is more than just are sometimes seen cleaning, taking care of edThe such a case, we must stand by her.”

Those about the honour boards — the guide supporting her have received offers of regales money children That first wasatplayed onAdivasi June 22, 1814 andmatch cooking homes. womus with of quirks, quaint traditions from thestories forest department officials to with- between MCCtheir and names a visiting from en do notthe change afterside marriage and of the of cricket ever Hertfordshire, drawsome the case.

Butfinest Madigames says with determinais on very and children doand notitbear thethe name of day theirtwo faplayed overnot twotake centuries.

I stroll through centuries tion, “I will the caseAsback.” laterTraditionally, that the sameitclubs will face off thers at birth. was also accepttheMadi’s pavilion andagainst the famed I gawk in battle the Long forestRoom, department rematch. ableanforanniversary both men and womenIttowill havecoincide several at works art depicting the the game in both its with is part of of a larger story about battles of the other events such as cricket master classpartners through life, something that would rural origins modern-day splendour adivasis.

Their and traditional ways are under es, fairground stalls and even coconutwoman.

Shy carcertainly tarnish a ‘chaste’ non-tribal alongside portraits legends likeThe the Kattuthree nival threat by the forestofdepartment. games theof training grounds Clearly, theonrest India has muchoutside. to learn Indian The museum nayakanstalwarts.

— traditional honey too houses A special match took place on 19 from also adivasi societies.

WeMay don’t many a testament to the history of cricket, between the need gatherers — have not collected women’s MCC out teamto—western led by to reach from to equipment toofphotographs, 2009 World Cup-winning muchclothes honey this year because captainor Charlotte feminist traditions United but the Ashes Urn that draws to the fear it of isthe forest department.

Of- me Edwards — and the Rest of the World (featurNation charters that call for The rest of India has protective glass. over ato century history ficials harass andWith threaten im- ofmuch ing from an all-starequal cast rights. including India’s Yet those in Jhulan power to learn packed its miniscule frame, it overshadprison into tribals who collect Goswami andare Mithali Raj), with these the latter working against comadivasi societies ows even artefacts of Indian like the emerging victors. firewood and honey despitetriumphs the The men’s counterpart will munities and their progressive Prudential World Cup from 1983.

Forest Rights Act (2006).

Routine be held on Julyworldviews.

5 and is oneEven to look forward to: today adivasis This year, as in thethe ground its bicen- the MCC will are intimidation, form celebrates of verbe captained by understood Tendulkar and commonly as tennial, there is aabuse, wholeand hostgenof bal and physical will include Lara, Rahul Dravid ‘primitive’ communities in special events to mark thetooccaeral harassment has led fewer and fewer need of ‘development’. and Brett Lee,Dominant while Sachin’s erstcultural sion.

The landmark site, though, adivasi women venturing into the forest. This forces are acting while nemesis, Warne, will lead a to ‘integrate’ adivasis making is not they where ‘Lord’s Cricket means can no longer gather the tubers, them more like Rest the side featuring theofus, in World other words less proThe tale of Lord’s is Ground’ was first founded. leaves and berries, which areThoessential to their gressive and more fellowmisogynistic. spin great Murali and more than just about mas his epodiets.Lord Theyfirst arefounded not allowed to collect the master batsmen Pietersen We all know that Madi’s caseKevin is one among the honour boards nymous at Dorset thatch andground bamboo from the forest to build so many other and Shahid Afridi.violence in the cases of gender Square in London beforeassault circum-on Madi is the country. AmidstCricket their houses.

The sexual hasimagine always all thisinitEngland is hard to stances forced it toroutine move intimidation. twice, ugliest face of this been heavy ceremony. Just as that India is also home toon communities where eventually settling at its present villageas cricket has handshakwomen are treated equals.

Weitsoften forget location at St John’s Wood in 1814. Since then es Where women are equals and spreads punctuation an afterthat wetea have many as other stories to to tell. the ground has seenof a few butregresmetic- noon’s For Madi, and those her changes, community, game, thewe professional Lord’s The only story repeatedlyform hearhas is that of ulous care — and some say a hint ofare stubbornsive manifestation of patriarchy absent. and its suitedhelpless members surrounding subservient, girls faced withplayers grueness — has among createdmany an adivasi atmosphere that as For instance, communitheyforms walk in out ofIn the pavilion. some of and violence. the processEchoes other ensures the old-world charm has not abeen lost of ties, widows have the freedom to live full and their applause still linger you stand in narratives are routinely madeas invisible.

There to the demands of modern-day cricket.

The the happy life and can remarry if they choose. middle of the Long Room by are also stories of struggle and surrounded resistance, like height ofunheard the stands the pavilion, in- tradition.

Dowry is of facing here. Instead, most for adivaBut with either an Madi’s, which mustthe belikelihood told and of celebrated. stance, has not changed as the theform members si girls receive a bride price (in of cat- MCC membership or the chance to playHer at She like so many others is fighting back. “liked see the treesmarriage. behind the ground”. tle or to grain) during Unlike the Lord’s small, yourwho, best despite bet is tothe do fight isvanishingly for all adivasi women Even the relatively steepofslope from one side of what all-too prevalent sense misfortune associatdid —decided close your eyes and the odds, I have to speak outhear bravely the ground the other — over twounmarried metres in words, ed with theto birth of a girl child, played, inflicted gentlemen.” against“Well the violence upon them. inclination has not levelled as it would girls are not—seen as abeen burden in adivasi fammandrekar a UK-based priyashri mani worksis at the Adivasifreelance Culturalwriter Centre, take a challenge faced by fielding ilies. away Neither is it mandatory forevery women to be aditya cricket enthusiast Gudalur, Tamil Nadu side sincewho the first washusbands’ played there. the ones movegame to their homes and

Disquiet in the jungle 200, Not Out

The first adivasi woman in the Nilgiris District files a case of sexual assault. Her battle tells of As the ground at Lord’s celebrates its bicentennial, a constant tussle between a community known for we its gender equality and those in power revisit cricketing history through its iconic prism

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apiladi Dev lookschanged) ahead sternly as he (name is a 23-yeartosses the ball, into old adivasi girlone-handed, from the Bettakutherumba air. Standing at ease inhunhis tribe — traditional whites and an India jumper,for the onter-gatherers — famous their ly thing of place is a pair of on skills as out elephant mahouts.

Sheblack livesshoes in a vilhis They nothing Tiger awayReserve from the lagefeet. inside thetake Mudumalai in larger-than-life portrait though, asThese the man the Nilgiris district of Tamil Nadu. forwho aloft the 1983 Cricket World at ests, held rich in biodiversity, are home to Cup one of this very venue has no doubt earned his place the largest populations of Asiatic elephants in on pavilion wall. Onshare moving the thethe world.

The adivasis theircloser hometowith painting, two others come view: Bishen the elephants and even theinto occasional tiger.

Singh Bedi had in his trademark sky-blue Madi, who studied till Class XII inturban a govalongside the Colonel himself — a padded-up ernment school, worked as a shop attendant Dilip Vengsarkar staringShop confidently into the at a Public Distribution within the forest distance. group stopsguard, to gazeon at the area. EarlyOur lastentire month, a forest portraits reverential silence. pretext ofindiscussing work, insisted she come are at Lord’s.

Thearrived, home, the Mecca, the to We his house.

When she he sexually asbeginning cricket incould all its scream history,for with trasaulted her,ofbefore she help. dition and to not few odditiesMadi hidden on and Not one beaintimidated, decided to behind its brick walls. the heart of fight back and take onStanding the forestinofficial, who London, it to is harass home to England and Wales continued herthe with threatening calls Cricket Board, Middlesex Cricket and overt gestures.

AlongCounty with her fatherClub she and the famed custodians of the laws of cricktravelled to Ooty, the district headquarters, to et, the the Marylebone Cricketthe Club (MCC).

As it report case to P Sekhar, District Colleccelebrates 200 years of its presence at its tor. The collector passed her complaint tocurthe rent location, itofremains stadium superintendent police the who one handed the where dreams a 100 matterevery to thebatsman women’s cell at of thescoring local police and every bowler hopes getfinally a fiverreached in the station in Gudalur.

Whentoshe hope of having their inscribed alongthe police station, shenames was told that it was too side theirsince predecessors on the legendary late and no investigation could be honconours boards in either room. ducted in the night,changing she should return the Butday few in its illustrious history next to players submit her compliant.

When she have managed to do so.ofMost met the superintendent policemodern-day to register greats ofunder the game — Sachin Tendulkar, Ricky her case the SC/ST Prevention of AtrociPonting, Brian1995), Lara,heMuttiah Muralitharan, ties Act (POA, asked her inappropriShane Warne — such have failed to have ate questions, as, how couldtheir shenames prove written on those boards while some of those the assault because she was a tribal woman. who havetell — Ajit Agarkar in the batStatistics their own story, thevisiting conviction smen’s lookin distinctly out is of20 place.

Is it rate for list POA—cases Tamil Nadu per cent the notoriously difficultaverage. playing conditions, I lower than the national wonder, or just a sense of awe that But Madi, a single mother, and theovercomes daughter some of the veryBettakurumba best international performof a traditional healer, is stayers? howSuresh, does that those who rose ing And strong. a explain Bettakurumba leader to challenge onAdivasi more than one occasion: andthe member of the Munnetra Sangam

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All agog Journalists try to find a vantage-point to witness the unlocking of the famed chest; (below) Shyamali Das, who decreed its contents belonged to her shreevatsa nevatia

World Cup foretold

Shaheen the camel from the Arabian Desert is the chosen one

Secret of The Blue Room Scientists find a hidden man painted beneath a Picasso masterpiece

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he good folks at Phillips Collection in Washington are playing art detectives. They have finally confirmed that there is a hidden painting behind Pablo Picasso’s masterpiece The Blue Room. One of Picasso’s earlier works, it was created in 1901, and is widely regarded as the start of his blue period of melancholy subjects. Curators have long thought that there was always something lurking under The Blue Room, with a letter from a conservator in 1954 even noting that there were odd brush strokes underneath the painting. Predictably, science came to the rescue when advanced infrared imagery revealed a bow-tied man resting his face on his hand, beneath the original. One puzzle solved, the art detectives are looking at the next. Who is the man, and what did he have to do with Picasso?

Bunty returns Or is there a new superthief on the prowl?

Two incidents that occurred in the first week of June in the Capital have spooked the city’s cops. fter the passing of oracle, Paul the octopus, footOn June 2, a man walked into a south Delhi ball fans can now pin their hopes on a camel for household and asked for the keys to their Volksworld cup predictions. Shaheen the camel from Duwagen Polo that was blocking his car. The man bai has pipped other worthy competitors — a panda then drove away in the car. A few days later, the cub from China, Nelly the elephant from Germany, same car stopped at a petrol pump, asked for a Big Head the turtle, Flopsy the kangaroo and Roo the full tank and spedbeaway without footing the bill. they wouldn’t allowed to witness undog — to the post. So far, Shaheen has predicted the Inlocking what seems theirchests. worst nightmare of thelike famed A mercilesscome sun results for four games with 100 per cent success, intrue, Delhi see much. the stamp of drilling the ‘showdidn’t helpPolice matters As the of Bunty.

In similar Bunty cluding tough games like Spain vs Netherlands and man’ superchor the cutters began to resonate fromstyle, the narrow had stolen aofVW among 500 other England vs Italy. So how does Shaheen pick the wincourtyard theyears policeago, station, a bunch of inburglaries.

Given that heseemed was arrested in Kerala ner? Two heaps of mashed dates are placed on either trepid camerapersons infected by the last year, Delhi speed-dialled its Kerala counterside of the camel and the competing countries’ flags dauntless spirit of Captain Jack Sparrow’s parts checklike if Bunty was still in their are placed next to them. The camel then decides crew.toMuch the buccaneers fromcustody. the PiIsrates it another breakthey for Bunty?

Or worse, is with its ‘divine powers’ to turn to a plate of its of theprison Caribbean, leapt on terraces the loose? this copycat superchor choice. A better bet than baby pandas in Sichuan anda unsuspecting treeson to find an appropriate climbing up flag-marked trees? Meanwhile, the vantage point. Before they could get a clear ghost of Paul the octopus visited London last week view of their dead man’s chest, however, a powhen a van carrying a giant octopus broke down at liceman came charging with a lathi and a scufone of the city’s busiest junctions, sending everyone fle broke out. ometime during a rather impressiona- the Gariahat Police Station. With both claiminto a tizzy.

Indy Jones would have perhaps used this litble childhood, I firmly believed that ing rightful ownership, the shoe manufactur- tle diversion to sneak his way to the centre of Indiana Jones had singlehandedly de- er and former owner took to fighting a battle action, but in my defence, I was suddenly disfeated the Nazis. Having devoured Stein court. Wanting to end the LInk’s favourite rhino breathed his cruel suspense tracted by a copy of an advocate’s letter that ven Spielberg’s Raiders of the Lost Ark, I grew had come to surround last onthat Wednesday.

While he mightthe chests and was thrust into my hands. Shyamali Das, who obsessed by Indy’s search for the Arkhave of the content, Alipore died their a virgin, Shivathe lived a fullCourt life in December was fearlessly braving the torments of an unCovenant. If I just had a whip and a fedora, I 2013 had declared it was time for the coff- forgiving afternoon, had appeared outside the otherwise.

Born and raisedthat in Byculla, told my bemused parents, I too could Shiva scuttle be opened. than six months later, Gariahat Police Station, declaring that she was spenters histotwilight yearsMore by the PuraHitler’s hope for invincibility. The idea was in Delhi that day of revelation was upon the absolute owner of the iron chests being na Qila where he was brought in us. laughed off, as was my demand for an opened. We now had a third claimant. “These theeyehope of siring some rhino babies. patch after I had finished reading Treasure Is- Moment of truth boxes belonged to my ancestors and were unland. Dissatisfied with the explanation that a I reached the Gariahat Police Station early this lawfully moved from my property. I am here to pirate cannot be a role model, I dreamt of trea- past Monday morning. Officials from the West fight for them,” she said. Das held the attensure troves and maps marked with a telling ‘X’. Bengal Fire and Emergency Services would on- tion of assembled media professionals for alYears later, I’m a tad embarrassed by my ly arrive with their electric and most an hour, but her pleas and imaginary discoveries of buried gas cutters at noon, I was told. implorations were forgotten as hoards, but given the nature of recent Until then, I had to join the ranks soon as the fire department offievents, I wish I’d bought myself that of an ever-curious press contincial Tarun Kumar Dutta came Indy hat. gent that had perched itself on outside to inform the press, “We A bunch of intrepid As is true for many adventures in the pavement outside. As the have been able to open all three camerapersons Kolkata, ours begins with a precise number of cameras and OB vans chests with great success.” seemed infected by address — 178, Rash Behari Avenue. increased in the little lane out- the dauntless spirit of The only positive takeaway Having bought this piece of land side the police station, so did the from Dutta’s further statements Captain Jack from owner Mahamaya Pal, Sree- interest of casual passersby. After was the obvious efficiency of the Sparrow’s crew leathers, a shoe manufacturer, be- having stopped twice to assess fire department. They hadn’t n-coupling found and re-coupling nerdy gan constructing a showroom here this hysteria in his neighbourgold, ganja—orterms explosives. atomic physicists around in theirsciswain 2008. A few days later, their hood, businessman Prabhat Das “There throw were some needles, ter-cooler conversations haveblades. become drill hit a hard metallic sur- said, “I had read that these chests sors and — some AllhouseI can thanks to Gywneth Paltrow and face. Some digging later, were going to be opened on June 16, but I hold tell staples, you is that the chests were made in Canaver since the World Cup kicked off earlier this month, there have headline-grabbing conscious labourers on the site un- hadn’t thought it was going to be such a his- Chris da.”Martin’s Other items were later added by policedeofbeen stories galore about goals, saves, triumphs and tribulations. earthed three iron toric occasion. Who knows what’s inside cisions.

Ironprotected Man star and Coldplay frontficialsThe — fire clay,the four ₹5 currency But in China, the World Cup is proving to be a veritable social epidemic. chests. Estimated to there? Gold, perhaps.” Another onlooker then man were together decade before notes, a one paisa for coinnearly dateda1953, a calendar Three people have already died in the country due to ‘football overdose’ weigh over 1,000-kg came up to me and whispered, “Bombs, dyna- they decided to ‘consciously as they from the year 1974. With alluncouple’, talk of 300-yearand it’s only been a week. In Shanghai, Zhou Meng, a 39-year-old man colput it,rendered in March.

But, inI was justfinally three each, a crane was mite. I am sure of it. There will be an explo- famously old valuables wishful, lapsed to his death while watching Costa Rica’s drubbing of Uruguay. couple has seemingly grown closer, employed to haul sion. That’s why the fire department is months, given athe chance to inspect the chests for myself.

Meng, who had a history of high blood pressure, had put his troubles rumours theyand arerusted. gettingThe back toout these possi- coming.” A television cameraman, who fuelling The boxes were that mouldy faces aside and watched footy matches three nights in a row, which ultimately they are ‘consciously ble antiques. looked obviously bored by the seemingly end- gether, of thethat claimants were crestfallen.re-coupling’.

Even the asproved fatal. The cause of death was a brain haemorrhage. Two others — a paparazzi have collected enough The police ar- less wait, had perfected his own theory — Hollywood sembled police officials looked disappointed.

25-year-old and a 51-year-old were also found dead after excessive football photographic evidence of the two on rived with the “Ganja, has to be.”

They were hoping for jewels, notcosying needles.up I had watching in the cities of Suzhou and Shenyang. With China having posdinners, offlirting, and bonding crane.

They By the time the fire brigade personnel final- candle-lit started thinking Indy. Curiosity, for me,over had sibly the worst timings for WC viewing, 3am to 6am daily, perhaps they kids. those are not signs of true love 2.0, seized the chests ly arrived in their red jeeps and vans, curiosity their killed theIfhat. should stick to the highlights. and swiftly trans- had grown into impatience. Since the matter then what is, eh? ported them to was sub-judice, the press were informed that shreevatsa nevatia is a Kolkata-based writer

A

Chest raiders

When three iron chests weighing over 1,000-kg each were opened, the journalists were in thrall, so were its claimants.

Did it contain gold, dynamite, or ganja, perhaps?

S

RIP: Shiva the rhino

B

Q A Paltrow affair

A football epidemic

A growing number of Chinese are dying.

Reason: football fever

E

From consciously un-coupling to consciously re-coupling

U R

ND-X _ A

3 23BL BL

HANG

saturday, june 21, 2014

BL

24

cornerstone in-faq by joy bhattacharjya The brave ones

E 1

xactly 160 years ago the first Victoria Cross medal was earned in battle. This quiz is on gallantry. Warning — my definitions are flexible!

There has been much speculation on his real identity, but no conclusive proof. He was in Time magazine’s List of the 100 most important people of the 20th century because of his actions on June 5, 1989, captured in an iconic photograph. By what name do we know him?

2

The PDSA Dickin medal was instituted in 1943 to honour the bravery of animals in war. The first three winners were all of the same species.

They were named White Vision, Winkle and Tyke respectively, and all won for the same reason.

What species were they, and what did they do?

3

In 2003, 13 members of the Hindi film industry were supposed to depose about threats to them from the gangster Chhota Shakeel. Twelve of the 13 witnesses turned hostile. Who was the only member of the 13 to stick to her deposition?

4

In 1963, this English batsman scored 70 runs batting against Wes Hall and Charlie Griffith without a helmet or body protection. His shirtless torso, black and blue with bruises, made the front pages the next day. Thirteen years later, he was recalled at the age of 45 to face the next generation of frightening West Indian bowlers. Identify this cricketer.

the new york times crossword-0922

letterboxes

5

In one of the bravest acts ever recorded, a member of Robert Falcon Scott’s ill-fated 1912 Antarctic expedition realised he was slowing the rest of the party and decided to walk out of his tent to certain death. His last words, according to Scott, were “I am just going outside and may be some time.” Name this former cavalry officerturned-explorer.

6

Who is the only member of the Nazi party to be buried on Mount Zion in Jerusalem? I promise you that this is a completely legitimate question and you have heard of him!

7

Complete this statement by Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw with a single word — “If a man said he is not afraid of dying, he is either lying or is a _____?”

8

Which famous military engagement occurred because of faulty communication between Lord Raglan and his brother-in-law Lord Lucan in the field of battle?

9

Which fighting unit’s most celebrated engagement was in Mexico in 1863 when Captain Jean Danjou and 66 other troops defended the city of Puebla against more than 2,000 attackers?

10

On March 26, 1974, Gaura Devi, the head of the Mahila Sangh at Reni village, and 27 other village women confronted loggers in the neighbouring jungle. This was the start of which celebrated environmental movement, named because of the novel way the village women protected the trees?

ANSWERS

1. Tank Man, the unknown protestor who stood in front of a column of tanks on Tiananmen Square.

2. Carrier Pigeons. They carried messages to rescue aircrew whose aircraft had been shot at sea.

3. Preity Zinta; so when she does protest, listen!

4. Brian Close 5. Lawrence Oates 6. Oskar Schindler, who rescued thousands of Jews who worked in his factory.

7. Gurkha, Manekshaw’s home regiment.

8. The charge of the Light Brigade; Raglan had asked the Light Brigade to chase a retreating Russian battery, Lucan thought it was a different objective and had them execute a frontal attack on a heavily defended position.

9. The French Foreign Legion 10. The Chipko movement

ND-X _ A

joy bhattacharjya is a quizmaster, director Kolkata Knight Riders and author of Junior Premier League — The First XI. t@joybhattacharj

DOWN

In this special crossword, the completed solution conceals a familiar three-word phrase related to the puzzle’s theme.

70-Across provides a hint on how to find it.

40 Strawberry blond sister of Barbie 43 Hindu “Mr.” 44 “Swans Reflecting Elephants” and others 46 1960s-’70s series starring ACROSS Efrem Zimbalist Jr. 1 Crew’s colleagues 49 Oscar winner Hathaway 5 Dojo needs 51 Material beyond the 9 Classic sci-fi film billed as “a terrestrial plane, in horror horde of crawlmedieval science and-crush giants” 55 Hello or goodbye, maybe 13 “La-La” lead-in in a 1974 57 PC key Al Green hit 59 First word in 104-Across 16I berian wine city 61 Cum ___ 18 “Vincent & ___” (film 62 ___ engr. about the Van Gogh 63 Like hit shows, often brothers) 67 Pitchfork-wielding groups 19 Rings of angels 69 Boo-boo 21 What X-O-X lacks?

70 How to get a message out 22 “Macbeth” king of the boxes 23 Words on a fragile 74 Van Morrison song “___ package the Mystic” 26 Irascible 75 Numerical prefix 27 “Mona Lisa,” e.g.

76 “Only the Lonely” singer 28 Thumbs-up 77 Part of a wriggly field?

29 Harridan 78 Foreordained 30 Orchestra section 80 Understands 31 Mouthpiece for the head? 82 Maker of the Sorento 34 Jiffy 83 Gallivants, with “about” 35 Not post85 Boo-boos 37 Old piece 87 Pale 38 Little dog, for short 89 Like citrus fruits 39 ___ Aviv 92 Like video games,

nowadays 94 ___ Lingus 96 Round Table assignments 99 Old PC monitor feature 102 Ernie’s instrument on “Sesame Street,” informally 103 Italy’s main broadcasting co.

104 TV channel with lots of bells and whistles 105 Take up, as a skirt 107 Rotary alternative 112 Covent Garden performance 114 Newspaper columnist, humorously 115 Grampa Simpson 116 Snockered 117 Anders Celsius and Greta Garbo, for two 118 DDT and others 121 “Is Anybody Goin’ to San ___” (#1 Charley Pride song) 122 Bullet, in poker 123 Cartoonist Wilson 124 Help illicitly 125 Alley flanker 126 Hide/hair link 127 Looking up 128 Chant at a bullfight 129 Satirical 1974 espionage film

1 With 97-Down, classic puzzle type 2 Like eyebrows 3 Ones getting the red-carpet treatment, say 4 “The Spiderwick Chronicles” co-author DiTerlizzi 5 Antarctic summit between peaks named for faith and charity 6 Words after “win by” or “hang by” 7 What lobsters and crabs have 8 Nursery purchase 9 Baltimore club, for short 10 Ethan of “Before Sunrise” 11 Giant Manning 12 Company that pioneered walkie-talkies 13 “___ Mater” (hymn) 14 African capital 15 Organic chemistry group 16 Lilac and lavender 17 Turns into mush 20 Oaf 24 Not ephemeral 25 All ChiSox home games are played on it 32 ___ Lee 33 Pro with books, for short 35 Slapstick prop 36 Play watcher 41 Motocross entry, for short 42 Pirate’s cargo 44 Frenzied as if possessed 45 East German secret police

47 Where a mattress goes 48 Shapes like squares 50 Country that has two oryxes on its coat of arms 52 Like much processed wheat 53 Roman magistrates 54 Push off 55 Food item named after an Austrian city 56 Film set on Pandora 58 Snarly dog 60 Recedes 62 Blackmail, e.g.

64“ Well, now!”

65 Beat 66 Uncle Pedro, e.g.

68 Sign of a successful show 71 One with a name on a plaque, maybe 72 Nickname for baseball’s Dwight Gooden 73 Rolling Stones #1 hit with the lyric “You’re beautiful, but ain’t it time we said goodbye?”

79 Hefty thing 81 Wrinkly dog 84 Ones providing cold comfort, briefly 86 Big wheel’s wheels 88 “You betcha”

90 Dim bulbs have low ones 91 Horse hue 93 Prefix with skeleton 95 1970 John Wayne western 97 See 1-Down 98 Placid 99 Self-image?

100 Like the Palace of Versailles 101 English landscapist famous for “The Burning of the Houses of Lords and Commons” 104 Irritates 106 Electromagnetic device 108 Op. ___ (footnote phrase) 109 Some West Coast wines 110 Magazine to which Obama gave his first postelection interview in 2008 111 N.F.C. West player 112 Admit 113 Trifling 117 Wilts 119 “___ my destiny be Fustian” (Dickinson poem) 120 Was idle

By Mike Selinker / Edited by Will Shortz

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