Blink issue 94 november14 2015

CAUGHT IN A NET With the future of nonNET fellowships in flux, researchers fight to keep the aid that saw them through gruelling years of study p2 saturday, november 14, 2015

Members of a women’s self-help group in Amgaon village, Chhattisgarh, who used the RTI to get wages under MGNREGA courtesy poorest area civil society programme (pacs)/ sri kola

By allowing citizens to ask questions of the state, the Right to Information act, which turned 10, has helped uncover irregularities and deliver basic entitlements — such as a ration card, voter ID and school admission p9

Power to the people

BIRDS OF MODHVA The avian who’s-who flock to this pristine fishing village, but trouble is in the air p12

SHOWTIME, FOLKS The 17th Mumbai Film Festival was a success, despite a few glitches p14

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Marathoner in a lab-coat A legend in the world of ultra-running, Scott Jurek returns to the races he has previously won to see if he can do better after experimenting with new training methods and diets

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t’s hard to draw parallels between an ultra-marathoner and a scientist. But a seamless transition between the two is perhaps the best way to sum up Scott Jurek’s journey at 41 years. Setting a new record in July for a supported run on the Appalachian Trail is just one of the many successes the American has celebrated through the experiments en route.

Like your average college-going kid, Jurek took to junk food with a vengeance. Pretty

soon, it took a toll on his body and, with dis- next six years. The learning progressed with ease running in the family, Jurek started dab- the distances — on the trails and in the kitchen bling in different foods. He realised that a — and Jurek returned to the same races he had plant-based diet complemented his running, previously won to see if he could better his and could provide the same nutrition as meat. mark. “Each year I would do different things A decision made over two decades ago gave for training and what I ate, in order to learn Jurek a new purpose in life, and handed him a more and see how I could cut down time on career few can dream of. the run,” he explains.

After excelling at ultra-marathons around One of the real tests came in 2005 at the Fellow feeling the world, Jurek focused his attention on the Badwater Ultramarathon, labelled ‘the from Students march Appalachian Trail — a 2,260-mile run from world’s toughest foot race’ for itsthe notoriety for UGC headquarters Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Ka- felling the most stubborn competitors.

The to to Shastri Bhavan possible tahdin in Maine, along the US east coast. After 135-mile course runs through theprotest Deaththe Valley changes to the non46 days, eight hours and seven minutes, run- in California, where temperatures are known NET fellowships shanker Quite inning on average 50 miles a day, Jurek finally to hover around 50oC in mid-July. ; students chakravarty weeks rested after bettering the previous mark by credibly, he won the race just a few lament theafter end of their sole aid during his triumph at the Western States Endurance just three hours. years of wasn’t gruelling “It was down to the wire. The last 8km was Run. And if setting a course record research sandeep saxena the only time I knew I was going to make it,” enough, Jurek came back the next year and Jurek says with a smile, as he dunks his idli in- won again.

Further success at prestigious races estabto chutney at breakfast, during a promotional lished Jurek as the man to chase — whether it tour in Mumbai.

He is a legend in the world of ultra-running. was the Spartathlon, a 153-mile run from AthGrowing up in Duluth, Minnesota, life wasn’t ens to Sparta in Greece, which he won thrice; or adventures such as a race easy as responsibilities fell on alongside members of the Tarahis young shoulders after his humara tribe in Mexico, who mother was detected with are known to be the greatest multiple sclerosis. Running In Minnesota, there natural runners in the world. became a release of sorts; aren’t many vegetarian After all the competitive glowhether it was around the restaurants, so I did a lot house, tending to his younger of cooking on my own. It ry, Jurek decided to set his sights on personal desires. siblings, or through trails in was also fascinating — I omy Abraham, in her thirties, had returnalways wanted to douniversities,” one of alising.

Ondoubled Octoberas7,his the University Grants the woods that to all state was my own guineahanced pig and“Iextended ed to academics after a four-year break. the anational in thea PhD Commission (UGC) resolved to and discontinue backyard. non-NETscenic fellowtrails pursuing learnt a lotsays Kumar, She quit higher education to work, so that“Running — tracks that run across the the non-NET fellowship, was pure joy for even though it had in AfricanUSStudies. she and her researcher-husband could country, and circular the Appalachian earlier constituted an expert committee to me, but I never thought much Though the MHRD stated that the live together. Abraham came back for of an it. Iconsider mountainswould were aconsider place I the had possiits enhancement.

Students already review committee simply ran,” he reminisMPhil from Hyderabad Central University ces. af- Asgetting never explored.

So it reallyfellowthe fellowship will continue to do so, it bility of increasing a student of health scithe number of “NET ter her husband found a job. She doggedly seemed like awhich new adventure,” he says.

The UGC’s led toat an20 uproar ences,declared.

Jurek attempted hisdecision first 50-miler ships, are merit-based” and extending prepared for six months to crack the enwife Jenny of as his crew from turn the student community, anda for but didn’t professional until after fewmany,With the benefits the primary fellowship to memmore state trance and interview. As a non-NET (Naber, Jurek took off on trail inare Mayanxious this year, the scheme goesthe their sole of aid duryears. along As he with continued to realise limits universities, thethe students about a tional Eligibility Test) fellow, she received called—itthe offproposed a week into the run and af- othing years of gruelling research. his physical abilities with each race, food took and almost third point economic a monthly stipend of ₹5,000 for a yearup to mostThe ter a hurting knee a quad tear while destudents of his time offembarked the trails,on andwhat is anhas in- since er criteria for and the fellowship. complete her degree. Half the money was the Great Smoky Mountains thebook Occupy UGC and Gate 3scending of tegralbecome part of his titled Eatprotest, and Run. e are not guinea pigs, stop the experispent on the mess bill, and the rest barely “It took National Park in Tennessee. the ITO in Delhi has beentoturned memetro a yearstation and a half to transition ments,” saysfocus, a placard met research needs — buying books that never the but after propped reinto a protest headquarters sorts.

The agita-The record was a fully vegan diet. In Minnesota, of there aren’t ITOwithin metro reach, stationhe wall.

“Education were not in the library, stacks that hadmany that itthe was took to tion, shy of arestaurants, month now,sohas vegetarian I didseen a lotstudents of alisingagainst hasjust value, now itofhas a price too,”the reads to be photocopied, and sourcing sta-cooking sleeping a couple hours during lastanothtaking facing police violence onout my marches, own. It was also fascinating — on er graffiti. on a nippy evening in October, tionery not available in the campus. “II wasoccasion, few days to seal itLate in style. haspig alsoand prompted governmy own and guinea learnt a the lot in when traffic at one ofgetting the Capital’s took four semesters to complete thethe process,” “It was just an unbelievable feeling ment to he form a five-member resays. busiest is belligercourse. Though the course is for a year, Dairy Quiteintersections honestly, I never viewproducts committee address madetoway for oilsthe from co- to the finish line. ent, 100-odd students most students take an extension toconut, get the record. sit Youin the scope of non-NET fellowships. olives and avocadoes, and the bud- thought I would actually open been spacethrough, outsideand theit’s station submit the dissertation. The fellow-ding Last of all that you’ve students JNU, and Wthink chefweek, dished out from tempehe want it and resolve to fight on for their ship is only for a year, after which stu-tofu-based very emotional to realise that it all culminates Delhi University (DU), Jamia Millia as re-extended traditional Asian cuisines to all right dents have to find other sources ofplacement onvarsities this one day,” he says.to education. They burn the Islamiafor and Ambedkar the wild fish University and burgers he state effigy of West Bengaland, chief funding,” says Abraham. She once The day was also Jenny’s birthday to-minismarched to“Ithe of Hurelished. eat Ministry such a wide range of ter friends, Mamata they Banerjee and condipped into her savings. ascended manthat’s Resource foods, what I loveDevelopment about my diet,” he gether with a few theinattack on protesting In August this year, she went says, to take the landscape (MHRD), in he what hasout been their para- Mount Katahdin demn even as wipes another students Kolkata. through another exacting se- ntha, breatheineasy for the first biggest of for strength so far. to go around them. And whileshow looking a spicy combo Vrashali Sruthi, graduate student from lection process to enrol for awithThe time in over a month andaa half. minister met the protestors it. HRD “There are so many tastes and tex-on the DU, currently by the fellowship PhD in Delhi’s Jawaharlal Nehru tures is is still soaking unaffected in his last run, while alstreet and assured themIndia, that Thailand the fellowshipJurek in food from Japan, issue, for buthis hasnext been a regular at the protests.

University (JNU). Again, as a and so scouting target. would stay and the review East Africa.

Essentially, youcommittee need to eatwould to the campuses in the morning non-NET fellow, she is entitled to enough “I’ll“We stopgowhen I can’t run anymore.

Until and look into its scope and criteria. calories based onselection the distance you support, here the eve₹8,000 a month for four years. “I plan The then, mobilise it’s whatever gets and me gather excited,” he in says protesting students however are not on running, so it just varies with the says.life Subhashini, 26-year-old applied for the fellowship a month circumstances.” with aning,” smile.she Jurek’s is one race athat has no law buying it. They worry about the fallout if the at DU, is protesting too. “If the fellowago and got the allotment circular His line in sight. review committee recommends discontinuafirst major win came in 1999 at the 100- finishstudent two weeks ago,” she says. of theStates fellowship.

“We had three demands ship goes, people like me who are contemplatmiler tion Western Endurance Run in Calishail desai is a Mumbai-based writerto be affected,” she ing research, are going For many like Abraham, the conwehe started,” says forniawhen — a race went on to Kanhaiya dominateKumar, for the presifusion around non-NET fellowship dent, JNU Students Union. “We want the non- says. With a postgraduate degree in hand, reand its continuity has been demor- NET fellowships to stay. We also want it en- search is an option for her. “Students who go

The fight to education Q

As researchers fight to keep non-NET fellowships status quo, the snags in higher education come to the fore

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Dream run After successes at ultramarathons around the world, 41-yearold Scott Jurek has set his sights on crosscountry scenic trails in the US shail desai

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Life outside a Metro Students have embarked on an Occupy UGC protest, and Gate 3 of the ITO metro station in Delhi has been turned into a protest headquarters of sorts rv moorthy

into research are making a huge decision against joining the workforce immediately,” she says. Many, well into their twenties and early-thirties, say they cannot take money from their family. “Cost of living, research work, field trips — nothing would be left of the ₹5,000 an MPhil non-NET fellow gets,” she adds. Half of Pankhuri Zaheer’s MPhil nonNET fellowship goes towards her mess bill at JNU. “I am also learning dance and the money for it comes from the translation work I undertake for international students,” she says. The students want the non-NET fellowship increased to ₹8,000 for MPhil scholarship and ₹12,000 for PhD students. “What we are getting is lower than what an unskilled labourer gets,” says Zaheer.

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he non-NET fellowship was introduced by the UPA I government in 2006. “It was felt that the number of doctoral students in the country was substantially lower than what it

should be,” says Yogendra Yadav, former UGC ing all my taxes — service tax, VAT, everything. member and a supporter of Occupy UGC. Where is the money going?” asks John.

Of the nearly one lakh students who enrol Occupy UGC may be about the non-NET, but for research every year, less than five per cent Yadav says it invokes an angst that runs much qualifies for the full research fellowship — deeper — the unequal opportunities in higher NET-JRF. The non-NET, a subsistence fellow- education. “An elementary analysis of the figship, is currently awarded to MPhil and PhD ures from 2011 shows there are around 4,000 students in 46 central universities and select fellowship slots in postdoctoral research, state universities. That still leaves a large pool which covers 75-80 per cent of researchers. of researchers with no state support. The un- When it comes to MPhil and PhD scholars, felcertainty over the non-NET fellowship and the lowships cover one-fourth of them. Among likely introduction of economic criteria are the 3.3 million postgraduate students, UGC feladding to their woes. Future researchers may lowships reach 0.01 per cent. For the 26 milbe largely dependent on family support or an lion undergraduates, there is nothing. All educational loan. “You may not get the stu- benefits of higher education are thus stacked dents who are most keen,” points out Mary E at one end of the spectrum,” says Yadav.

John, professor and senior fellow at the Centre The system effectively pushes out the needy for Women’s Development Studin the first five years of higher ies, New Delhi. “Most researchers education, and this he calls eduare under extreme pressure to cation’s mortality rate. “When earn. Men from modest backthere are no ways to survive, The system grounds are fighting off pressure effectively pushes out they drop out,” says Yadav. Pubto support families financially lic universities in India are prothe needy in the first and women researchers are often viding less financial aid than five years of higher warding off the pressure to get the private universities in capieducation married. The fellowship gives talist countries, he says. The them breathing space. These rebudget continues the fetish for searchers are taken on board after elite institutions like the IITs rigorous eligibility and selection and central universities. “Nineprocess,” says John. Wondering why a commit- ty-five per cent of the students are in the state tee constituted to enhance the fellowship has universities,” he adds. taken a U-turn, she fears for the future of re The students, meanwhile, are keeping Ocsearch programmes. cupy UGC alive. The review committee is ex She points out that over the years, research pected to submit its report in December and programmes have evolved from flexible sys- the agitating students cannot but link it to the tems to one that holds researchers and guides upcoming WTO-GATS meeting in Nairobi, accountable, leaving little scope for misuse. where opening up of the education sector is “Even for a PhD, we have entrance examin- likely to be decided upon. “We are going to deations and minimum course-work; research centralise our protest. Representatives will has to be finished in the stipulated time, be- visit campuses in the country and educate yond which they do not receive the stipend,” them on the movement,” says Kumar. Agitashe says. The academic remembers that tions are on in Hyderabad and Kolkata too. things had looked up for higher education a Of late, many have advised Abraham to seek few years ago. The 11th Five Year Plan had in- financial support from her husband, if need creased by nine-fold the outlay for higher edu- be. She finds such suggestions offensive. Abracation. “Slew of expansion was in place as it ham has had friends whose research hinged was recognised that the state has to play a big- on the fellowship, friends who skipped meals ger role in higher education, that the share of during mess holidays as they couldn’t afford GDP going into higher education was very to eat out. “I have gone through the strict scruless,” says John. That outlay has dropped from tiny of the university to get admission, and ₹57,610 crore (about 9.5 per cent) in 2013-14 to now it’s the government’s responsibility to ₹16,122 crore at present (about 2.8 per cent). fund me so that I can contribute to and push The total allocation to the MHRD dropped by the boundaries of my discipline.” around 24 per cent in Budget 2015-16, against the peak allocation made in 2012-13. “I am pay- p anima

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Soul-fixing in Konya At the heart of everything in this laid-back Anatolian city, lies the barkat (grace) of Rumi, the Sufi mystic, philosopher and poet who spent the last years of his life here

Plus size A Walmart-owned Best Price Modern Wholesale store in Agra; the American company requires about four acres to build a 60,000-sqft outlet like this

Giant takes a wholesale bite

The spirit lives on The Mevlana (master) Square in Konya is named after Rumi shutterstock/ruzgar344

Shelving its retail FDI plans, Walmart is focusing its energies on mom-and-pop stores, small oon after arriving in Konya, I set out in a cash-and-carry market pegged at $300 billion traders, hoteliers and caterers

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on a search for a fixer of soles. My most comfortable sandals, my most sturdy travel companions for years, are comSharma, thenot owner of to Rajpart Raing apart athetan the soles and I’m ready food courtfor inaAgra, stop with them.soi I am looking shoecannot repair shop about the mausoleum. one-stop-shopI in the sidegushing streets off Rumi’s from which heback sources nearly evwant my soles fixed, glued on, I explain to needed mochi. for his He restaurant — from the aerything genial-looking speaks no English. furniture and he groceries pieces Can’t be done, shakes to hisdecorative head. Just then a and cutlery.

Shopping on alternate days, he young woman in a headscarf, and holding a saves up to peeps ₹3 lakh month at the smartphone, intoa his tiny shop andover im60,000-sqft Besta friend Price, owned by the mediately calls and hands herworld’s phone largest retailer, Walmart. to me. The friend speaks English! I tell him to Andhra everyfix Sunday evening, askInthe mochiPradesh, why he can’t my soles.

They Sambasivarao the Best Price outlet locatare too old, thevisits adhesive won’t work, is the reed about 45 km from It is here ply.

Disappointed, I takeVijayawada. back my sandals and that he buys the home appliances, furniture prepare to leave.

My young intercessor, Zeypieces, confectionary, cereals and a range of neb, runs a souvenir shop next door and inotherme items that he her stocks sale because at his SriI vites to sit with for for a while Krishna Best Sale advanlook distraught.

In supermarket. her shop, overThe glasses of tage: huge savings in transportation sweet, black Turkish tea, we bond costs with and the a range of products unmatched by the help of Google Translate and laugh likeother silly wholesalers andcloses dealers near him. girls.

When she shop, we go for dinner. I more She thantells seven years for her the tellAfter her waiting I’m a writer. me about elusive By government for foreign directI’m infamily. the time I nod get back to the hotel vestment (FDI) retail, American giant Walgetting over myin sandals. mart is nowinfocusing energies the likes I arrived Istanbulitsthree days on earlier and

of Sharma and Sambasivarao. It has found its ing to industry estimates. “It is an attractive mooring in the cash-and-carry wholesale for- market. We have established a good business mat — where FDI up to 100 per cent is permit- model and are happy with our current perted. Walmart’s target clients include kirana or formance. That makes us bullish about investmom-and-pop store owners, small traders, ho- ing further in India,” says Iyer. teliers and caterers in a wholesale market that He had to virtually rebuild Walmart India afis pegged at $300 billion. ter the company was involved in Krish Iyer, who took over as a lobbying controversy, followed President and CEO of Walmart by massive staff exodus in 2012India after the company called 13. “I think it wasn’t challenging What works for us is off its joint venture with Bharti (to get moving again), but we the direct-to-store over Tea, Turkey’sneeded a focused approach…

Enterprises in late 2013, says,The cup runneth model “Growth here (in India) is drivenfavourite beverage shutterstock/jokerprocash-and-carry was the logical by domestic private consumpchoice.” tion and not exports. With the Efforts to grow the company’s after a couple of days of of fretting (the base master) in Turkey.

Kocurrent business model cash- and waiting known as Mevlana customer include a strong in queues at the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Pal- nya turns into a bustling the time and-carry, where we sell to business members, digital strategy.

“I believecity thataround a vast majority ace — the usual tourist trapspotential — with great relief Rumi’s annual urs (the day ofstores unioniswith we believe there is a great with the of sales even in brick-and-mortar digboarded bus to the green and high-plateau his Beloved) in mid-December.

Devotees fairly lowapenetration of modern retail.” itally influenced.

We have rolled out a and B2B town of Konya, about 700 km away. Visiting lovers of mystical poetrywebsite throng where to Konya. (business-to-business) memIndia will buy Konya has been on my wish list for long. Rumi bers I’mcan glad I visited in Aprilor — place fewerorders tourists, check the products on (1207-1273) lived the last of his life in Ko- cool and or sunny weather, hotel rooms Globally, by 2020 theyears mom-and-pop-store the Web call us at the vacant store and make ennya and itisisexpected here thattohe composed mag- and thousands of colourful tulips. business grow by $800his billion, quires while placing an order.” num opus, Mathnawi.

HeIndia, is lovingly Standing under theishushed air of the green of which $140the billion will be in accordMore interesting the company’s hand-

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holding strategy for store owners, which seems to be bringing in loyal customers. For Sambasivarao’s store, for instance, Walmart sales executives helped plan the layout, product category sequencing and even trained store employees on standards for display and audit. “Our business development associates go to shops and hotels to sign up new members,” says Iyer. Members are enrolled within a 20/40-km radius of each outlet to ensure that customers do not have to spend more than 3040 minutes in commuting.

Moreover, small businesses like Sambasivarao’s are saving a lot of money by using Walmart’s transportation services. For each carton of products, Walmart charges ₹11 for transportation, including loading and unloading. “Other distributors and wholesalers charge ₹35 per box,” says Sambasivarao.

All he has to do is go to the Best Price outlet with a list of items. “The staff pack and ready the items in 25 minutes and I am out of the store in less than an hour. Moreover, the pricing is transparent,” he says.

Cost advantage For hotelier Sharma, the biggest draw at Walmart is the availability of fresh fruits and vegetables at the most reasonable prices in Agra.

Shelf-to-shelf Owners of small retail outlets shop for their stock at a Best Price Modern Wholesale store

“The prices are at least 15-35 per cent lower practices to farmers. Yet, farmers are free to than market rates. Moreover, they have dis- sell to other regions and retailers and Walcounts and periodic promotional offers. Over- mart does not enter into any exclusive tie-ups all, I save ₹2.5 lakh a month. Plus, I don’t have with them. to roam around Agra in search of quality prodAs it works overtime to get the backend ucts,” he says. right, Walmart’s store expansion rate has been So, how is the retail giant able to offer this slow — 21 stores across India. Iyer explains that pricing advantage? By investing in and main- the company requires about four acres to taining a robust supply chain, says Walmart build a 50,000-60,000-sqft store. “That takes India’s Vice-President and Head of Corporate time. Acquiring real estate is a time-consumAffairs, Rajneesh Kumar. “What works for us is ing activity in terms of legal requirements the direct-to-store model. All the suppliers we and due diligence,” he says. Walmart has work with, such as Nestle, Coke and even leased most of its properties, but Iyer says the SMEs, supply directly to Walmart outlets. We company is prepared to buy land also, if an opundertake joint business planning to portunity arises. make sure that the fill rate [inventory’s ability to meet demand] of Battle for every store the product is good.”

Devangshu Dutta, chief executive at consulApart from an annual plan- tancy firm Third Eyesight, says Walmart has a ning exercise, a Walmart model that works, but not necessarily everyteam interacts regularly where. “It requires a certain type of real estate, with the companies to iron which is not easily available in metros and big out issues on a real-time ba- cities.” That perhaps explains why the giant is sis. “Our software, Retail focusing on tier 2 and tier 3 cities.

Link, provides suppliers “The penetration of mom-and-pop shops with the information they and traditional stores continues to be higher require around replenish- in tier 2 and tier 3 cities. They are attractive opment,” says Kumar. portunities and make sense,” says Dutta. WalTo strengmart aims to add at least 50 then its supstores to its portfolio by 2020. ply chain, But can a new player compete Walmart is effectively with the likes of Metro The staff pack and moving to Cash and Carry, which has been ready the items in 25 procure diaround since 2003, or a local giminutes and I am out rectly from ant like Reliance? “Yes,” believes of the store in less farmers in all Iyer. “We have our own memberthan an hour the states ship data and we know what a where it opermember would want in Punjab ates. So it or UP or Telangana. By understocks apples standing these preferences and from Himachal Pradesh, on- basing the decision on this customer data, we ions from Nashik, sweet lime are able to meet the specific needs of buyers,” from Telangana and a range he says. of vegetables from Punjab and Dutta agrees: “At the end of it, retail is a very Uttar Pradesh. local business. And it is dependent on how “We source directly from well you address the customer segment in a farmers to get fresh produce at given geography. Just being a large or estabthe right price, so that our mem- lished retailer nationally or globally is no bers can pass on the savings to the guarantee for success. It ultimately comes end-customer,” Kumar says. In Ha- down to fighting each store battle independpur, Lucknow, Telangana and some ar- ently.” And how well-armed Walmart is will beeas of Maharashtra, Walmart is come apparent in the next few years. working with irrigation companies and introducing best agricultural rashmi pratap

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EXTRACT

Break for lunch In The Strange Haunting of Model High School three BFFs — Lara, Mallika and Sunu — realise something is afoot when an unknown boiled egg smell invades the classroom

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td VIIB was in an unexpectEven muffins faded into insignifiedly peppy mood. cance before this paragon. Lara The boiled egg smell had looked up with a sudden un-Larabeen awful while it lasted. like sparkle. Mallika clutched her But now, a bit like a pongy Santa bosom and yelped. ‘Hold still my Claus, it had vanished into the great beating heart. What did Suhail say? and smoggy unknown, leaving beWhether you like it or not, Sunu, I’m hind unexpected gifts. crushing on him.’

First, the mystery stink had pro‘Shut up, Mallika,’ Sunu snipped. vided a topic of endless discussion.

‘I’m trying to tell you. His principal Some girls floated a theory about called all the captains for a meeting. demonic experiments in the bio lab.

Apparently there’s going to be a Others preferred the one about joint concert between Model Girls alien landings. The most popular School and Modern Boys School and idea was that Zubeida Zanwar ...’ brewed potions in the chemistry ‘Maddorwot?’ Mallika squealed, laboratory with scorpions and ding-donging between excitement saliva. and disbelief. ‘What kind of conBetter still, Miss Jhaveri was so ratcert? Singing? Plays? Together? tled by her close encounter with Saath saath? Haathon mein haath?’

Light of the matter the Adyan Diwali is often the favourite time of the year sibi arasu non-veg that she’dFor taken to hercommunity, bed.

‘Sir Singh will be so happy with Which meant no maths for three your Hindi,’ Sunu chuckled, while whole days!

Lara gasped, ‘It can never be togethSo when the bell rang for the er. We’d break about 20 rules during short break at 11am on Thursday, Std every rehearsal.’

VIIB bounced out of the classroom Sunu nodded, while Mallika in high spirits. The girls grabbed straightened herself and quoted, their snack boxes and headed for ‘The Students’ Handbook’, Chapthe corridor in giggly groups. Sunu ter 9, Interaction with Neighbourand Mallika scuttled to their favouing Schools: rite corner, just next to the forbid1) The pupils of Model Girls will den, polished wooden staircase. not in any way try to communicate Lara drifted up a few minutes later. with the pupils of neighbouring Sunu opened her Lock ‘n’ Lock boys’ schools. orwith Samicrumbly (14), Lakshmi (20), box, filled cheese bis-Sudha and ganising art camps and other events. “Often, says Revathi.2)“AWaving bridge from schoolthe was not enough verandahs or Murugammal (both 19), Kumar (11), after a long holiday, fewer children return to though. The cuits from Paris Bakery. ‘Delish,’ Malchildren fit into govcalling out iscould strictlynot forbidden.

Mahalakshmi (9), and into their 150-odd the school. A high dropout rate is one of our ernment schools lika exclaimed, before peeping after justdown six months us.

3) Throwing noteswith to the Diwali ortheany festival, biggest problems,” says Revathi. her own schoolmates, steel dabba, groaning So the idea kept of evolving, bringing us to pupils neighbouring boys’ for that matter, would have been an agonising atrically and then striking a tragic Formerly employed in the Tamil film indus- where we schools are today.” will be punished by instant affair, if not for their school. pose. try, she had set up the school with the help of Vanavil expulsion. has grown into a full-fledged activTheseischildren belong to the nomadic boom fellow-volunteers she’d met in the aftermath ity-based learning ‘Woe me centre, spread over two 4) Throwing down other objects boom or Adyan community, of the 2004 tsunami.

Oncemaattukaran again idli. acres, andlike withbobby a 15-acre abutting it.simiChilpinsfarm or belts will be which is you so marginalised that even the schedFie on Mrs Rao Recalling the horrific scenes of devastation dren are admitted from kindergarten up to larly punished. uled tribe status eluded it so far.

Such cruelty wehas cannot allow!’ left by the tsunami, she says, “The first few Class V. Those orphaned or otherwise unable ‘Unless it’s an atom bomb, in sight across TamilpheNadu during days, the only thing to do was to clear bodies; to go home ‘IA familiar think your mum makes can stay the will school’s hostelthe till which caseinyou be given festivals, members of this community nomenal idlis. Anyway, we can go from there was even a dead child. I was not able to they finish high school in for oneMoral of theScience,’ nearby Rangachari Prize door toLara door seeking alms in theher company of do this, so I started looking for share,’ said and she opened government schools. chimed Lara, and the three friends an ox, which nods tosix the ‘boom, other ways I could help. It was by Winnie the Pooh box its andhead found In the 10 years,crumb-scatmore than collapsed inlast a snorting, boom’ drumming by itsGranny owner.SylOut of sheer chance that we met Murugamperfect lemon muffins.

1,500 children from the commutered heap. the strange haunting of model high school desperation, theya push even for their children to mal, who later became one of via always baked little extra her been educated.

Three of Anity fewhave months ago, Mallika had This community is beg or sell cheap wares on the streets to sup- our first students, when she granddaughter and her gang. them, M Lakshmi, K Sudha and conducted a survey of the entire clawing its way to plement family’s meagre income.

And fes- about Mallikathe and Sunu squealed their approval came toSuhail us begging with a mal- claim its rightful place was because Murugammal, have gone ononto school, and found that there were tivalssettled are seen as lucrative opportunities, as her and down to eat. When only a few nourished child. him Thisso was friends found college, and many more are set to ly two windows through which you in society people are usually Sunu willing to part exclaimed, with a few fascinating. crumbs remained, suddenly strange because Nagapattinam follow suit.toss A community could possibly a note or a which Kitkat rupees than usual.

‘Imore almost forgot.

I have news!’ was littered with boys reliefwere materialMiss Jhaveri was so Most Modern margins into was the beyond Modernthe Boys’ side isofclawthe However, it’s a different ‘What?’

Mallika asked. kind of Diwali for pimply, and I was surprised mumbly nothing young- had rattled by her close ing its way to claim its rightful compound.

The first involved climbthe‘I don’t children of ifthis community at sters know it’s true, though,’studying Sunu said. reached When probedencounter with nonwhoher. would hopwebareplacethe in society. ing onto pot of the third floor loo Vanavil, decade-old school ‘In fact, Ithe don’t really believe it.’in Keezhakaray- foot further, that her community, the taken on we therealised Bandra-Worli To hasten process, plans tosecset and this risking yuckyVanavil infections.

The veg that she’d iruppu village, about scolded. eight kilometres from Sealink ‘Just tell us,’ Mallika Adyans, had no relief since they were to received avoid dealing learningcharging centres for ond involved intothe theadyan printo her bed up two more Nagapattinam town.

‘Well, according to Suhail ...’ she started, as with not in any administrative datasheet.” Revathi community.

Madam Principal’s That, in turn, would mean cipal’s office, conking her on themore head Theher school raises funds for this fes- wards. both friends looked upspecially with sudden interand a few volunteers Butother Suhail was nei-stayed back in Na- Diwali celebrations for more children.

Sawith her Zonta’s award, tossing aAs note tivalSuhail everywas year, and older the children are he given est.

Sunu’s brother and at- ther gapattinam themumbly next few months and de- mi, whoout pimplyfor nor wasofrescued fromand begging in Kerala her window then beating a new clothes, festive meals and nor tended Moderncrackers, Boys. cidedshy. to set a bridge school of sorts for the along with Heuphad smiling hisretreat. two orphaned siblings, exults, hasty Both of which sounded sweets for the celebrations.

“If we did nother do brown Usually, Sunu avoided talking about children of this community, whofalling were overeyes, floppy hair that kept into like “It’s too mymuch favourite time of the year. Everyone trouble. this, the children, of an eagerness to celebrother.

Like mostout sisters she thought her his whelmingly eyes andilliterate. manners that could charm a bursts crackers together… semma jolly-aasiruk‘Simpler just to send a text,’ said Sunu, the brate thewas festival, would most likely tak- lamppost. brother boring.

Also,have it was never a good “We wanted break begging habit.

The three Also,tohe was the a swimming and tenku (it’schortling jolly good fun).” shut their snack boxes friends en toto working or begging up with the nis idea talk about the boystoincome the school — not community was completely but and reluctantly headed back to class. champion and the sportsagainst captainthis, of Modmoney,” sayswere R Revathi, founder-member of ern even if they your real brothers, brotherthe children likedastofar come... got cycles, sibi arasu is a journalist based in Chennai. This article Boys (which, as hisWeschoolmates was produced with assistance from Building a Voice minwalla is a journalist and author offor the cousin school.brothers Even during the summer break, were ike, or rakhi-brothers. took them to movies every oftenas and slowly concerned, made himso almost divine as shabnam Children, a PII-Unicef fellowship Six Spellmakers of Dorabji Street theBut school keeps the why children engagedtalking by or- the the real reason she avoided tried to introduce literacy andTeam). numeracy,” The captain of the Indian Cricket

Boom boom… off to school Festivals meant a time of begging for children of a marginalised nomadic community in Tamil Nadu. It took one school to put some cheer back in their lives

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STATES OF MATTER

The façade crumbles Tensions in the neighbourhood show that all is not well in the “third republic”

sukumar muralidharan

through cellphone and social media about a horrible vendetta being planned for people of north-eastern origin, triggering a shocking mass flight from Indian cities normally too busy to think about ethnicities.

Clearly an honourable accommodation of diversity would be far more manageable for the aspiring democratic dispensation in Myanmar than continuing exclusion. That is a bit of advice India is well-placed to give, but prefers not to because its engagement with the neighbourhood seems increasingly driven by a security agenda. Myanmar’s current course points towards escalating tensions with Bangladesh, where a determinedly secularist government is already facing domestic unrest from Islamist forces. And that holds the potential of triggering localised conflicts across vast swathes of Indian territory.

India’s most intimate neighbourhood relationship with Nepal is also in a rocky phase.

An honest and candid gaze inwards would have shown that constitution-making, particularly in the matter of power-sharing between rival regional and ethnic claims, is never easy.

The ballot or the...? On election-eve in Myanmar, there were worries in neighbouring countries about the India took years settling the principles and, in Rohingya Muslims looking towards the sea for salvation rather than the ballot box ap/ gemunu amarasinghe the realm of practice, the process still continues. Yet in seeking to impose a power-sharing ecent weeks have seen India step out The disenfranchisement of large ethnic mi- deal favouring the people of the terai or the in style to create new bonds with norities, principally the Rohingya Muslims in southern plains, India demands that Nepal do Africa, laying out a generous credit Myanmar’s western provinces, has now be- as it says rather than does. There is no explanaline of $10 billion as inducement for come official, with even Nobel peace laureate tion, other than the narrow and unstated seboosting business with the continent. The and democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi unwill- curity agenda of creating a “buffer within a third India-Africa Forum Summit late in Octo- ing to make their case for citizenship. On elec- buffer” against China. And the subsequent ber was suffused with much mutual goodwill, tion eve, there were worries in neighbouring blockade on supplies into Nepal, supposedly with visiting leaders invoking India’s inspira- countries about another refugee flight, about “informal”, has caused great hardship in the tional role in liberation movements across the Rohingya looking towards the sea for sal- landlocked country and a sharp escalation in their continent. Unfortunately, they drew on vation rather than the ballot box. ill-will towards India. political traditions that the current Indian It normally is good policy, when a country Maladroit politics in Jammu and Kashmir leadership does not much care for. embarks on democratic renewal, to impose has created a growing rift between the princiAn urban mythology has emerged around the statute of limitations on myths of origin. pal regions of India’s most complex state and the current Indian regime, crediting it with a Whether the Rohingya are indigenous to the a rising tide of militant sentiment. The continforeign policy distinct from all things past. In- western Rakhine province or immigrants uing transactions in overheated rhetoric with deed, coming after Nehru’s equidistance from from regions that are today Bangladesh Pakistan and the paralysis of dialogue — and, all power blocs and the pragmatic engage- would seem immaterial to the contours a new increasingly, of cultural ties — do little to imments of the 1990s, the current regime’s strat- republican compact. If true, the prove matters. egy of expanding India’s spheres of influence, immigration theory would apIn the tiny Maldives, a state of is portrayed as a paradigm shift. Borrowing its ply to the dim and distant past. emergency prevails, with an inidiom from French history, which marks out And reversing the legacy of the cumbent Vice-President joining The subsequent every constitutional change by a number, In- past could set off chain reacconvicted former president Moblockade on supplies dia’s current foreign policy orientation has tions of lasting damage. hammad Nasheed in prison on been described as the “third republic”.

In June 2012, ethnic violence into Nepal has caused terrorism charges. India had siga sharp escalation in In the flourish of Prime Minister Narendra broke out between the Rohingya nalled its displeasure at Nashill-will towards India Modi’s swearing-in last year, India’s neigh- and Buddhists in Rakhine proveed’s persecution by excluding bourhood was marked as first priority in for- ince, leading to a state of emerthe Maldives from the Prime Mineign engagements. Yet, in now reaching out to gency. Killings were relatively ister’s itinerary when he went on Africa — and indeed in seeking a footprint in few, but a hundred thousand a grand tour of the Indian Ocean diverse parts of the world — India is trying to were displaced. The following neighbourhood in March. The step over an increasingly turbulent month, Bodo militias in the Indian state of As- message though, seems to have eluded its inneighbourhood. sam began attacking Muslims branded illegal tended audience.

Myanmar went to the polls on November 8 immigrants. Again, the scale of displacement Rifts in the neighbourhood come at a time in the first general election in a quarter centu- was vast. Within weeks, violence broke out in when the international press is increasingly ry. Though represented as a milestone in ban- Cox’s Bazaar district of Bangladesh, with taking adverse notice of the extremist forces ishing fear and restoring freedom, scepticism Buddhist habitations and temples being pil- gaining ground in India under the benign was rife about the intent of the military junta laged and burnt. gaze of Prime Minister Modi. The moral pedessponsoring the election. The junta retains a The cycle of violence spread westwards to tal is crumbling, as too is the illusion of a quarter of the seats in parliament and with Mumbai, where protests by a fundamentalist “third republic”. constitutional changes requiring a three- group escalated into a major affray in which fourth vote, possibilities of further reform are two were killed and police deployments at- sukumar muralidharan is an independent writer severely constricted. tacked. Rumours soon began circulating and researcher based in Gurgaon and Shimla

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Eyes wide shut Shelter from the storm?

UNDISCOVERED COUNTRY

A PhD student documents Delhi’s disturbed sleep — the struggles of the homeless to find a bed for the night India, home to around two lakh refugees, doesn’t have domestic laws to protect them. ities of instead Sleep is a documentary What it offers is a long,that opaque process to those seeking recognition profiles how Delhi’s impoverished

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sleep. The film tracks the city’s informal sleep settlements, how the homeless deal with the problem of finding a bed every night, and the socio-economic pressures that sleep exerts. There are two narratives in the film: one of Shakeel, from Old Delhi’s Meena Bazar, who struggles every night to rent a bed run by a sleep mafia of sorts. The other story looks at the commune built under Loha Pul, where people gather to watch films and share sleeping space. Director Shaunak Sen, 28, a PhD student at Jawaharlal Nehru University, talks about how sleep changes everything.

No rest in peace The harsh Delhi winter is the most difficult time of the year for the city’s homeless reuters/

reinhard krause

How did this film come about?

I had an academic interest in sleep. It has been looked at through the lens of psychology and science, but I was interested in trying to investigate the socio-political pressures that sleep exerts and the informal structures around sleep that permeate the city.

in the tussle over space. partitioned into spaces. There are different Shakeel [one of the main characters] kept kinds of informal set-ups that come up in the following us around, claiming that he could night and disappear in the day. My film shows share a lot of things. He is an outcast even in a two different circuits of sleep. One, more of a space constituted of economic outcasts. He community congregation, the other a better has a conflicted relationship with Jamal [who set-up, well-oiled machinery.

Finding home runs one of the shelters]. How does sleep exert More than 10,000 you take to film? found their You must’ve What made you structure the film the way you pressure as a socio-political vector? For Shak- How long didAfghans way to India, out. with did (one segment is a sleep biography of a eel, sleep changes everything. [A Hindu, he spent many nights among them person, the other on a place)? even changes his name to Shakeel, to fit in a We shot overmany two years, and it took a year to edfinally settling in a Initially we wanted to situate it in Meena Ba- Muslim-dominated locality.] Ranjit [the other it. We’d leave after dinner around 9pm, stay reuters/ third country zar, because it is richly varied. A bustling mar- main character] was an automatic choice; he out till 4am.vasily fedosenko ket in the day, it transforms into a sleeping had a certain sophistication of thought. The space at night. It can also erupt into violence main premise of the film was that the city is bhavya dore f you read the newspapers you will have parliament in 2005, following the overthrow the UNHCR offices. But to be recognised as confronted the massive refugee crisis in of the Taliban. There were few stronger sym- one, you have to go through a difficult and Syria. Angela Merkel’s brave declaration bols of the country’s liberation from the re- opaque process, which may take months of that Germany will absorb almost a mil- gressive Taliban rule than this woman in her paperwork. day. People know them also Andwho during that time youwon’t havetalk. to It’s lion refugees has dominated headlines across thirties, who, though not coming from the survive onlyonwhen was researching the music yourI own, with no means of in-with the world. What the headlines don’t say, unfor- cosmopolitan, globetrotting class of the Kabul come, people from that to era that I came to know with no country call home, and with tunately, is that the vast majority of the 15 mil- elite, had triumphed in politics. Unfortunate- nobody about theiryou. lives. to help Many of the refugees fleelion refugees worldwide are hosted by ly, overthrowing the Taliban was easier than ing to India are, like Atmar, traumatised either Yourorfilm looks at how musicians developing countries, usually the most stable overthrowing the mindset of the male-dom- by war, other forms of Goan violence.

They are haven’t been acknowledged their one across the border from where the refugees inated society. In 2010, Atmar lost her re-elec- anyway not at their best, and thisfor bewildering contribution to the Hindi film industry.

Why are fleeing. This makes sense, but in the news tion bid, and soon thereafter her process is often more than they was that? of war and horror, we are rarely made aware husband started physically abuscan deal with.

IAll that jazz

A Konkani musical evokes memories of a pair of legendary Goan musicians, as well as Bombay of the 1960s

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that both Turkey and Pakistan host more than ing her. A courageous woman, Whether RD (Burman) C Ramchandra, Luckily for or Atmar, just two Hin1.5 million refugees each, fleeing from wars in Atmar filed for, and received, a di film music the fled influence years showed before she home,of aGoan you arrive ardroy Barretto conceived his first time. speaks about theIfgenesis andin India Syria and Afghanistan.

Even a country as tiny musicians.

But of these guyswomen were not too interdivorce in Barretto 2013. Unfortunately, group young lawyers as a refugee, youested. are For feature film, Nachom-ia evolution project. as Lebanon, with a population of less thanKumpasar five this made them it was part-time her of a the social outcast. had set up The aAra Trust to job. pro-They on your own. If you Dance tomillion the Rhythm), 12 years million, hosts (Let’s an additional refugees, were livevide performers. think, being Goans Even Atmar’s own family boycotlegal helpI and counselling Your film is loosely inspired from aretrue lucky, you willthey find were ago. Looselybigger inspired the story while Iran, considerably at 77from million, not too ambitious.

Buta they ted her. foralso refugees.

Roshni Shanker, events. How did the project begin? your way to Delhi of legendary Goan musicians Lorna shelters around a million people from the Cordeiro surwere notformer credited.

Butlawyer this happens When Atmar turned to interUNHCR and foun-in all There was music all around and Chris Perry, the 46-year-old advertising rounding war-torn countries. national diplomatic missions for when I was grow- industries. der of the Trust, had explained So I was towards music. The professional’s film of the Though India is not in is theset topin10Bombay countries help,ing theyup. refused.

Thedrawn embassy the challenges to me in 2013, and stereotype Goans in Hindirefufilms, more I listened to thewhich music, the more I want- There’s aalso 1960s and highlights the club scene of the offering shelter, it is home tojazz approximately of one European country, how theof flow of Afghan which your film remarks on.

Were you also ed toa major know cheerleader these musicians.

I two lakh refugees, and that is primarily be- had been of gees had increased due to viotrying to rectify that? knew there was a bigger story cause we are, thankfully, not surrounded by the Afghan war, insinuated that if they provid- lence that had spiralled out of control. out there.

It could’ve been a doccountries tearing themselves apart (although, ed help to women suffering domestic abuse, Intimately familiar Anywith Pinto be a inner drunkard. thewill UNHCR’s I wanted to an naruntil a year ago, Sri Lanka qualified). The two then umentary, arefriends stereotyped drunkthey wouldbut have to shelter uncounta- workings, ShankerGoans and her work as with to do row it down to one chapter.

So fled I to ItIn-is difficult largest nationalities we have given shelter to ble number. ards. My film has trueyear Goans.

In desperation, Atmar hundreds of displaced people every to We I don’t think took theher love story as an excuse. are from the Tibetan region — with over one dia, hiding have people whereabouts from her biopics. own help them get recognition anddrinking, find safe but har- only is Chris and Lorna are theThe primary lakh refugees — and Sri Lanka, with 65,000. In- and her is areferred drunkard. husband’s families. journey to In-everyone bour. Atmar’s caseone was to Ara Trust, comfortable talking characters.

Using their songs I storm. dia also plays host to a number of people from dia should have been a shelter from the and she recently received both recognition You to country. be staggering the aboutand their lives Afghanistan due to age-old cultural ties with Sadly,prepared it was not.a playlist and wrote resettlement in aseem third In her of the film. Why is the scenes between. host, India is not case a victory wasscreening the nation. A little more than 10,000 Afghans Despite beingin a welcoming won, but in too many cases that? have found themselves in India, with many of a signatory to the 1951 Refugee Convention. such battles are lost, because nobody knows, Why did you fictionalise it film remainswith in the them finally settling in a third country.

Nor does it have a domestic law on refugees. If nobody cares, andAwe continue ourtheatre lives for instead of doing a biopic? few weeks.

Wethe wanted to keep it A recent Afghan refugee was Noorzia Atmar. you arrive in India as a refugee, you are on without a seconda thought for tragedies is difficult to do biopics. don’t think relevant for two years. We will be comYou would not have heard of her as a guest of your Itown.

If you are lucky, you Iwill find youreverythat surround usat onleast all sides. oneDelhi, is comfortable about lives. So pleting one year since the first screening in our country, but you may have heard of her as way to which is talking the only placetheir where Omair Ahmad is the South Asia Editor t@OmairTAhmad I had to fictionalise it. Also, as Chris died inat2000, Goa. We don’t want two-week glory. one of the first women elected to the Afghan you can apply to be recognised a refugee for The Third Pole, reporting on water so there was no way of getting his version. And issues in the Himalayas Lost strains A still from Nachom-ia Kumpasar; (inset) maker Bardroy Barretto people don’t talk about [their story] even to- bhavya dore

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Mintu Devi’s magic wand As the Right to Information Act completes 10 years, we examine how RTI has changed people’s lives, become a byword for democracy, and helped alter the relationship between citizen and state

Tell me how School students as young as 16 have proved to be effective users and campaigners for RTI shiv kumar pushpakar, just like Mintu Devi (inset), who used it to claim her ration priyanka kotamraju

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intu Devi’s relationship with the ration shop changed the day she filed an RTI. In the jhuggis of New Seemapuri, situated on the northeastern edge of Delhi, she is a legend.

The 37-year-old mother of four is an Antyodaya Anna Yojana (AAY) card holder — the pink paper issued to the ‘poorest of the poor’, whose income is less than ₹250 per month. Her household is entitled to receive a monthly supply of ration at subsidised prices — 25kg of wheat at ₹2/kg, 10kg of rice at ₹3/kg, and sugar at ₹13.50/kg. But for nearly three years she received no ration, until she finally lodged a complaint in 2012.

At Hans Raj Malhotra and Sons, one of the dozen fair price shops (FPS) in Seemapuri, Mintu Devi was turned away time and time again. Twice every month, she would queue up at the shop, clutching her AAY card. “They would shout and send me away. Sometimes, they would show me discarded husk and tell me to collect my ration,” she says.

More than 7,000 migrant families from Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal and Assam reside in this resettlement colony and clusters,

chiefly employed as daily wage workers, con- mapuri,’ carried out by NGO Pardarshita, struction labourers, rag-pickers, and domestic which works on RTI in the area, 47 per cent of help. Mintu Devi works at the anganwadi, households in E44 and E46 blocks of the JJ while her husband is a daily wage worker. De- cluster do not possess ration cards. In Mintu nied her ration and bullied, each visit to the Devi’s block, E44, nearly 40 per cent of BPL (beFPS was an ordeal that brought Mintu Devi to low poverty line) and AAY card holders don’t tears. “Baar baar bhaga rahe the, to RTI daal diya receive ration. In her case, RTI had worked like (They made me run around, so I filed an RTI),” a magic wand. The complaint was filed, action she says, shrugging her thin was taken in a time-bound shoulders. She was threatened at manner, and her ration was a public meeting called by the regularised. But behind these shop owner. “I had returned administrative measures, a They made me run from my village in Bihar that around, so I filed an RTI more elemental shift had ocday. People came and told me curred. Mintu Devi had ques— Mintu Devi that the shopkeeper, aided by lotioned, and demanded answers cal muscle, had sworn to tear my from, traditional power struclimbs if I didn’t take back my tures — the neighbourhood racomplaint.” At the Department tion shop, government offices of Food, Supplies and Consumer Affairs, her and the state. By exercising her right to know, grievance was similarly dismissed. But she she also accessed her right to food. In the last stood her ground and followed up on the RTI. three years, she has filed at least “100 RTIs” and In a little over a month, a cheque for around held the government accountable. The nar₹7,000 arrived at her doorstep. That was the row, dark lanes of E44 now teem with scores of bill for three years’ worth of essential supplies Mintu Devis, who use RTI to wield their demofor her household. cratic rights.

According to a 2013 study titled ‘Life in SeeLast month the Right to Information Act

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Opening special This year, Hansal Mehta’s Aligarh has been receiving rave reviews special arrangement

New and improved

(2005) turned 10. What started as a demand to open up the muster rolls of workers in Rajasthan has now become a byword for democracy. In the last decade, the RTI Act was used to expose scams such as Adarsh, Vyapam, and Commonwealth; to uncover irregularities in the implementation of social welfare schemes round this time last year, the future such as MGNREGA, Midday Meal Scheme, and MumbaiAct Film Festival (MAMI) RTE (right of to the education) across states; and appeared With no sponsors to deliver basic rightsbleak. and entitlements — Minsight, Kinni it nearly fellher through.

The tu Devi herinration, Singh voter card bigwigs of the industry saved the daythe by loosand Asraf, school admission under EWS ening their purse strings justquota. in time. This (economically weaker section) time around, the organisers got their act toInformation to democracy gether well in advance. The buzz around the 17th the festival began We saw Whatedition has theofright to know doneearly. to democraadvertisements starring“The Karan cy? What has changed? firstJohar, thingRanbir is that Kapoor, Aliaa Bhatt and Information Rajkumar Hirani, we can ask question. aside,imwe ploring filmmakers to sendoffice, in their en-a can nowyoung walk into a government ask tries a good four to fivean months ago.says TheNikhil reins question and demand answer,” of to the able Dey,the RTIfestival activist were and a passed founderon of Mazdoor Kihands of film critic Anupama (festival san Shakti Sangathan (MKSS).Chopra He adds, “We director) andthe Kiran Rao (chairperson the may not get answers or policies weofwant, board).

Thewe event found solid but at least willeven be heard and oursponsors. questions The toohe seemed prepared. will beattendees asked.” This, says, isbetter the most practiOver thetocourse weeklong I met cal way returnoftothe a more directfestival, participatoseveral out-of-towners down ry democracy.

“This iswho the had onlyflown act in the just to devour thetofantastic world country (proviso Section 8line-up of RTI of Act) that cinema.

Many localswith confessed they had filed equates the citizen the legislator.” leave applications as thetool, festival dates What is the RTI?asA soon technical a redress were announced. veterans whoitstill remechanism, and aMAMI very good law. But is also gret missing some films last year — because a thought process, a political paradigm, andofa their ‘bad planning’ —the hadcitizen colour-coded relationship between and theprintstate, outs the schedule to stay on track this time addsof Dey. jan around.

Some overzealous delegates On December 2, 1994, MKSS held itseven firsthad (public in Kot Kirana village, sunwai the run-time of hearing) films memorised.

Rajasthan.

Hundreds of workers voiced four With fervour running this high, organisademands: openwere up the panchayat records, tional glitches easier to overlook.

The conduct publicbarely audit, aredressal in the first blowa came few hours intoform day of money to complete works, one with Greek directordevelopment Yorgos Lanthimos’s and government That— first science fiction darkaccountability. comedy The Lobster one public meeting led to films a cycle of festival protests, of the most anticipated of the — whichcancelled. came to a head two followed years later a masbeing This was byatfurther sive rally ininBeawar, Rajasthan, the disruptions the schedule.

“Therewhere were hiccrowds pressed thescreenings state government for a cups like delayed and cancellaright to information tions, but we will belaw. back better,” reassured Recently, at a packed hall in Lady Shri Ram Rao, at the closing ceremony.

College students how the There Delhi, was a Dey fair told amount of outrage exmovement had unfolded,filmmakers transforming pressed by participating as from well. a pithy slogan — ‘personal political’ his — into Gurvinder Singh, who wasisscreening Pun-a paisa humare aapki, naseriesfilm of war cries: yeh jabi Chauthi Koot, bitterly complained hi kisi ke ki, yeh panchayat humare aapki, about thebaap subpar sound and picture quality of nahitheatre. kisi ke baap sarkar humare aapka, nahi the “Theki,most disheartening experikise ke ka. Humara paisa, hisab ence forbaap a filmmaker is to see hishumara work literally (This money, panchayat, this government washed away.this Wish we had protested in the

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Deathly info Fortynine RTI activists, including Shehla Masood, have been killed in the last 10 years, but the questions they asked remain sushil kumar verma

is ours, and not your father’s. It is our money, team, has continued to work in the resettleour accounts.) ment colonies, demanding hisab (accountThe same day, across town, Aruna Roy, social ability) from the central and state activist and a pioneer of the RTI movement, governments at the rate of almost 300 RTIs a told the young audience at Indra Prastha Col- month — that is, 10 complaints a day.

What do Seemapuri residents ask for in so lege a different part of the same story. She remany RTIs? The answer is simple: counted the tale of Class IV What happened to your electoral dropoutand Sushila, who attended a Angry and middle halted the screening. promises and our basic rights — press conference in on Delhi, in dejected,” he wrote his Facebook page. our ration, pension, and school 1996, alongside experts ac- captures Singh’s film, set in 1980s and Punjab, the RTI has changed one admission? tivists. When a “semi- Blue Star. tension in theasked wakewhy of Operation It of the worst Even a quick study of the RTIs literate likeIndia her Gold wants went on woman to win the section, which relationships that I’ve filed in Seemapuri over the last RTI”,have she replied, “When I send spirits. may helped lift the director’s known, between the myThe sonline-up to the of market ₹10,included I police worldwith cinema films station and the 10 years reveals the denial of basic rights. For instance, an RTI filask him account for everycuriosity ruthat hadto already generated at other victims — Aruna Roy ed in 2013 disclosed that over pee. The government spends bil- Taxi, Tangerfestivals, including Jafar Panahi’s 600 people in the JJ cluster had lions in my whyhad should ine from thename, US, which beenI entirely shot lost the right to vote. Based on a notan askiPhone, for accounts?” on and Chinese indie The Assassin, Delhi police order, certain areas theaearly to In name few. noughties, parts of But Delhi also witnessed anfocused outcry for right to were deemed to harbour ‘illegal Bangladeshthis year’s festival onapromotinformation law. talent Localities Seemapuri ing home-grown and like stories.

The 13 is’, calling for police verification before issuand Sunder whererepresented Arvind Kej- ing voter cards. So, since 2008, voter cards had films in theNagri Indiawere Goldlabs, section riwal’s NGO from Parivartan off a movement filmmakers acrosskicked the country and 14 In- not been issued in Seemapuri, and residents centre the festival are struck now in who already hadThe ID reins cardsofwere simply against corruption in the public distribution dian languages, including Wancho, Bodo, Ha- Command hands ofrolls. film critic Anupama Chopra (right) off able electoral Police verification never system.and Since 2007, however, Pardarshita, ryanvi Chattisgarhi.

Besides India Gold,an a the tookfilmmaker place. Kiran Rao pti offshoot withwas members from the original new section added, called India Story, and which culled out lesser-known yet interesting work across mainstream, regional and experi- year. India-born French director Prashant mental genres. Also, for only the second time Nair’s Umrika, starring Suraj Sharma and Adil in MAMI’s 17-year history, the festival opened Hussain, was another festival favourite that with an Indian film — Hansal Mehta’s Aligarh premiered at MAMI. starring Manoj Bajpai and Rajkummar Rao, No film event in Mumbai is complete withwhich has been receiving rave reviews. out some Bollywood magic, although MAMI A few of the filmmakers in the competition may be the one time when Bollywood fanatics had already won plaudits for are grossly outnumbered by their fresh and original storyworld cinema aficionados. Howtelling at other prestigious fesever, Movie Mela helped keep the tivals. First-time filmmaker balance by hosting entertaining For only the second Ruchika Oberoi, who recently sessions with the cast of Mr India time in MAMI’s 17won the Fedora prize for the and youngsters like Varun Dhayear history, the best young director at the Venwan, Arjun Kapoor, Sonam Kafestival opened with ice Film Festival, premiered poor and Alia Bhatt. an Indian film her film Island City, which is a All things considered, this fesseries of three stories that captival was a vast improvement ture the loneliness of life in over last year’s hurried mess. For Mumbai using dark comedy. the 7,000 passionate delegates Perhaps the most brave and chilling film in who stood patiently in queues, sometimes five this category was Tamil filmmaker Vetrimaa- times a day, one hopes that the festival only ran’s thriller Visaranai. Partly based on a real- gets better with each passing year. As for those life incident, the film tells the story of three Ta- waiting to fill out their next leave applicamil migrant workers in Andhra Pradesh who tions, the organisers have already done them a are falsely jailed for a crime they didn’t do. Pro- favour by announcing that they’ll be back on duced by superstar Dhanush, it was the first October 20 next year.

Tamil film to make it to the competition sec-RTI has changed people’s lives and their relationship with Leading from the front Aruna Roy believes that mohini chaudhuri rohit jain paras this across the country tiondemocracy of the Venice Film Festival earlier

After last year’s Mumbai Film Festival (MAMI), which was a hurried affair, this year the organisers, attendees and film fraternity were better prepared

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Shadow lives Placebo is an honest and hard-hitting film about student life at AIIMS — one of the most competitive educational institutions in the world

Arrow in the quiver More than a thousand RTIs were filed by survivors of the Bhopal Gas Tragedy to help them get justice v sudershan

When 25-year-old Kinni Singh, a migrant from Bihar, reached the poll booth in 2012 to cast her vote in the Delhi municipal elections, she found her name missing. “We were informed that our names had been removed because we didn’t provide any proof of Indian citizenship,” says Singh, who was born in a government hospital nearby and attended government school up to Class X. “The Delhi government’s own survey revealed that there were eight cases of Bangladeshi migrants in Delhi and none of them 2011,Seemapuri,” Abhay Kumar, then 25 and a recent were n from says Rakesh Agarwal of postgraduate, showed All India InPardarshita.

As Assam heads up for at assembly elecof Medical Sciences (AIIMS) tocitivistions stitute next year, the longstanding issue of it his a medical student.

He zenship has brother, already reared its head, but here walked out of institute two was yearsdenied later, was a colony in the Capital which withright more 1,000 of footage and the to than vote on an hours assumption that they storiesbe from deepmigrants within India’s most presticould illegal from Bangladesh. gious medical college.

“In 2013, after we had filed the RTI, they set up a What started an idea to visually docuvoter camp andasissued cards to everyone, ment hisany brother’s recovery after a serious stuwithout verification,” says Singh. dent ended becoming a narrative Or brawl, consider theup case of government that explores thesee, lives ofnumber some of the country’s schools.

“If you the of schools in brightest minds. this area has gone up... on paper,” says Rajiv So what is on their minds? One character Kumar of Pardarshita. has of hishowever, perfect profile Onvisions the ground, what itphoto meanson is Facebook, another spouts theories on the nathat a single school building functions as ture ofdifferent time, a third is inwhere a stateone of hysterics afthree schools, classroom ter ingesting copioussections. amountsSo, of the bhaang. holds three separate East Delscreened for the first timebuilding in India, hi Placebo, Municipal Corporation School at MAMI, charts at AIIMSBthrough four difhouses the New life Seemapuri block school on ferent doctors, his own solilits ground andeach firstwith floors, and quirks, the Dilshad oquies and back stories.

Kumar’s voiceover Garden A block school on the second floor in andmorning sequences of animation tie these stories the shift.

A third school occupies the together. “I’m a campus junkie,” premises in the afternoon shift.says EachKumar, class29, on the sidelinestoofhave MAMI. “Itmore became an adroom, stipulated not than 40 dictive experience, an exhilarating high, livstudents, accommodates thrice as many. ingSeveral someone RTIselse’s filedlife.” by the organisation have The film, guerrilla-style, entirely on a revealed the shot abysmal state of implementation handycam, was anright. unauthorised exercise; Kuof a fundamental Twenty seven per cent mar stayed illegally onschools campus. was even of Delhi’s government doHe not receive called Jal ‘doctor times, as no one Delhi Boardsahib’ water; atvacancies under the guessed thatare heseldom was a filmmaker. providEWS quota displayedThis on boards; ed him with the candid moments to schools continue to collect fees innecessary the guise of tell individual the ayah or festivalstories funds,playing despiteout freeagainst and combackdrop of larger under institutional concerns. pulsory education the RTE; and school While the bright-eyed ambition andto pride management committees continue be of the medical students all too(the obvious, chaired by principals, notare parents only darker threads run through the campus, state where thisalso happens). such as thethis tyranny failure, depression and Perhaps abjectofstate of schools explains the risk of suicides. why even Mintu Devi’s 18-year-old daughter is not makes has“But filedthis a few RTIs.anAtexposé,” the J&K Kumar block governclear. It isn’t really documentary ment school, Neetuafiled an RTI lastabout year AIto IMS, out as much as it five happens to be AIIMS. find why only students inset herinclass of

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69 had passed the English exam. “We knew 10 years, but the questions they asked remain. why. Our English teacher came to class at the One in five people knows about the RTI. “Peoend of the academic year. She taught us noth- ple own the act, use the act, and propagate the ing, but recorded some sample audios to sub- act,” says Dey. “Their perceptions of democramit to the school board. I would have to repeat cy are different but they have an equal right. It and tell In the worst relationa year because she neglected her duty,” says (RTI) has changed one ofStitch Placebo individual station and the victhe Class XII student. Neetu was called to the ships: that of the police stories play out against Dalit principal’s office, where she met an irate En- tim,” says Roy, giving the theexample backdrop ofoflarger foughtconcerns back. institutional glish teacher facing suspension. “She told me victims of violence who have placebo Successive governments have tried to weakthat it might take me 11 years, but I would still not pass. I did on the first attempt,” says Nee- en the 10-year-old act. If the UPA government tu, who is now in the same grade as her young- tried, unsuccessfully, to amend the act, implementation has suffered under the “It sister was never about he adds, “It think of a finished er Anshu, 17, the alsoplace,” an product.”

This sense of condispensation.

Politicaluninparcould’ve been any institute.”

RTI-pro. tinuum — current aside from the jerky camera, ties movements continue to in resist But AIIMS isn’t just any The accept- hibited rants, While Pardarshita actsinstitute. on timecoming — give unthe der it. feel.

Compliance of Section 4, one ance rate iscomplaints 0.07 per cent, compared to 7 per movie a visceral individual as as well We may not get the of the most important sections, cent at Harvard and 8policy per cent as issues that affect de- at MIT. We don’t The screening at MAMI was attended byhas Dr answers or policies been Kumar very poor. audit the see how Dey thesesays students got here. cisions, the focus at But once they Chopra, whom first “An meets in a of hostel we want, but at least, prime minister’s and all chief mindo, the“is battle only just isMKSS on has class-action room on camera.

Chopra we will be heard and isters’ websites their combegun.For The students have sues.” instance, a PIL filed said, “Ireveals am grateful he our questions will be pliance of made Section 4. While the PMO different andthe by Roy andambitions Dey examines such a movie.

This asked — Nikhil Dey website offers no disclosures, only their struggles vary. One “haphazard implementation is a sensitive topic. But for four chief the ministers have some sort character dreams of in miof MGNREGS and delay payfirst time you see how of information,” say Anjalimedical Bhardgrating to the and US, compensaanother ment of wages undergraduate waj and Amrita Johri, of leadstoa student uprising aftion workers.”

The petition life is…

It is co-authors very sad how and medical members education of Satark ter a suicide onthe campus.

Afcontends that government has arrears of the People’s report, our National Campaign for ter the crore protest, he reflects ₹3,200 in the world’s largest social sec- Nagrik Sangathan and system works.

It is very People’s Right to Information. thatscheme. some of the theatrics tor stressful, and I thank him For eight months,for from August were just for show. The film focusing onlast it.”year to Q&A on education March 2015, the Modi government was not just about “showKumar took vacillated the careofconsidered the chief informainganother kids smoking pot,” but Shiksha Ka Sawaal over the appointment In campaign called fully decision of appeals douexplores (SSA), the stress at elite Abhiyan launched last year with Rajas- tion commissioner. Pendency to screen his film only afthe MKSS is asking six questions, bled, from 7,560 toter14,516. than Patrika, and According to a institutions how eduhis subjects had gradHindu, from the CICAIIMS, has been including ‘What often is thefail state of education recent report in The uated cation systems to fewer across the 85,000 schools in Rajasthan?’ and admitting “fewer and students. protect themcases fromevery any ongoingbacklash. study of 2,000 ‘How do filmmakers we move from towards month this year.” Anpotential While findinformation it Commissions (SICs) accountability?’ easy to direct theThousands camera at of parents, who CIC and State Information AIIMS is likely to be less halfthrilled of the orders have had never stepped others, Kumar hasn’tinside shied a school before, shows that more than than at how it information; are marched offices himself and filed away fromtoputting in RTIs the with the not recorded basic has been portrayedpenalties — adminisincreasingsame set of questions.

“Most of these parents not being imposed; film. Placebo is not a documentary trativeapplicants apathy andare student disafThe film, ly shot asked to state reasons for filing RTIs; experience alienation at schools that and Kumarthe is same no ‘fly on the wall’ fection included.

“There is and one beingglitch,” dismissed overtold frivolous they do inevents a government office. Now the guerrilla-style, gov- petitions are tiny narrating in a dispassionate Kumar audientirely on a “If the reasons. government were film to see was the ernment hasisissued an order that all informamanner. He as much a participaences after the handycam, RTIwas as aamanagement see a huge tion be available at the blockhis level, which nt, inwill a brutally honest scene screenedtool, to they’d a rapturous recompletely potential for sponse, good governance, expendiis a significant order,” says What happens younger brother — lying inDey. a hospi“They stillless don’t know unauthorised in Rajasthan is representative of ture and corruption, talSeemapuri bed with aor badly damaged right that thisbut filmthey’re exists.”not wedded to the idea of anKumar open culture at all,” says Dey. how has changed people’s handRTI — upbraids him on cameralives for and theirexercise and collaborator ArRoy adds, “What Gandhi the relationship with democracy.

According to neglecting him and obsessing chanaGopal Phadke have said met(at a few last month) is true. There are the 2011-13 ‘People’s Monitoring of the RTI Re- CIC conclave lawyers, about filming. anticipating potential democracy — gime in India’ four million RTIs three things indispensable “I was clearreport, it hadaround to be subjeclegal trouble. for “It’s like gatepeople’s representation of are filed year — that is, more tive,” saysevery the Chandigarh-born Ku-than seven the Constitution, crashing a wedding,” he told the and the right to information.

Take awaypeoany RTIs peronly cent users mar, per whohour. adds Fourteen that he has seen twoare or it, audience.

“You walk in and don’t expect of this, from areas, 58 per from towns and one three rural documentaries in cent his life.

“I was experiple will findthere out.”is no democracy.” cities, cent fromThe metropolises.

Forencingand it in29aper continuum. film was being kotamraju bhavya dore is a Mumbai-based journalist ty nine RTI activists havestep. beenI killed the and last priyanka constructed at every didn’tintry

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Neck to neck Nearly 500 flamingos nest annually in the Modhva village, Kutch

Creatures big and small Many kinds of migratory wadee

In repose A flamingo pauses on shore, as an anchored boat bobs in the water behind it

Forty winks Flamingos sleeping on the shore

Poetry in tandem Gulls circle low as a fishing boat ventt

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Perfect touchdowns in Kutch Fishing village Modhva annually hosts the greater flamingo and droves of other migratory avians, but trouble is in the air

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odhva is a fishing village just eight kilometres from Mandvi town in Kutch, Gujarat. With its dry and salty expanse of alluvial mudflats, extensive grasslands and miles of coast, Kutch appears as an endless stretch of flatland, punctuated by dry thorn forests and small hillocks. The unique geographical location and habitat puts it at the crossroads of Palaearctic migration streams, enticing a great variety of birds to find refuge here.

The small fishing community in Modhva is busy round the year, netting fish, prawn and lobsters. However, this scenic village located on the Gulf of Kutch has two major fishing seasons — monsoon (August to October) and winter (October to February).

From November to March, the place is aflutter with resident and migratory birds. Famed for its oyster beds and sand dunes, the Modhva coast is the place to catch sight of crab plovers, the winged visitors from Iran and Iraq, as also the oystercatchers during winter and the nearly 500 greater flamingos that nest here.

The avian who’s-who runs the gamut from sanderlings and curlew-sandpipers to greater and lesser sandplovers, dunlins, ruddy turn-

stones, five species of seagulls (slenderbilled, brown-headed, black-headed, Palla’s and Heuglins gulls).

Against a vividly colourful backdrop of a setting sun, Modhva offers spectacular views of fishermen going to sea, as birds fly low or preen or feed all around.

But there’s trouble brewing in this paradise.

As tourist interest grows, the beaches are neither isolated nor as pristine as before.

In the not-too-distant horizon, smoke billows from the chimneys of power plants and windmills. The village and its traditional fishing ground are slowly choking on the fly-ash spewed by industrial giants, says Jugal Kishor Tiwari, founder of the CEDO (Centre for Desert and Ocean) trust.

Working towards wildlife conservation and research in rural areas of the Kutch desert since 2005, CEDO has witnessed the steady deterioration of this invaluable ecosystem.

The airborne and nesting feathered denizens can no longer take this centuries-old hospitality for granted. praveen p mohandas is an architect and photographer based in Thrissur

eers arrive alongside the flamingos

tures t into the sea; the catch includes fish, prawn and lobsters round the year

On stilts All in a day’s work for the fishermen and their feathered companions

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Opening special This year, Hansal Mehta’s Aligarh has been receiving rave reviews special arrangement

New and improved

(2005) turned 10. What started as a demand to open up the muster rolls of workers in Rajasthan has now become a byword for democracy. In the last decade, the RTI Act was used to expose scams such as Adarsh, Vyapam, and Commonwealth; to uncover irregularities in the implementation of social welfare schemes round this time last year, the future such as MGNREGA, Midday Meal Scheme, and MumbaiAct Film Festival (MAMI) RTE (right of to the education) across states; and appeared With no sponsors to deliver basic rightsbleak. and entitlements — Minsight, Kinni it nearly fellher through.

The tu Devi herinration, Singh voter card bigwigs of the industry saved the daythe by loosand Asraf, school admission under EWS ening their purse strings justquota. in time. This (economically weaker section) time around, the organisers got their act toInformation to democracy gether well in advance. The buzz around the 17th the festival began We saw Whatedition has theofright to know doneearly. to democraadvertisements starring“The Karan cy? What has changed? firstJohar, thingRanbir is that Kapoor, Aliaa Bhatt and Information Rajkumar Hirani, we can ask question. aside, imwe ploring filmmakers to sendoffice, in their en-a can nowyoung walk into a government ask tries a good to fivean months ago.

TheNikhil reins question andfour demand answer,” says of to the able Dey,the RTIfestival activist were and a passed founderon of Mazdoor Kihands of film critic Anupama (festival san Shakti Sangathan (MKSS).Chopra He adds, “We director) andthe Kiran Rao or (chairperson the may not get answers policies weof want, board).

Thewe event found solid but at least willeven be heard and oursponsors. questions The toohe seemed prepared. will beattendees asked.” This, says, isbetter the most practiOver thetocourse weeklong I met cal way returnoftothe a more directfestival, participatoseveral out-of-towners down ry democracy.

“This iswho the had onlyflown act in the just to devour thetofantastic country (proviso Section 8line-up of RTI of Act)world that cinema.

Many locals confessed they had filed equates the citizen with the legislator.” leave applications as thetool, festival dates What is the RTI?asA soon technical a redress were announced. veterans whoitstill remechanism, and aMAMI very good law. But is also gret missing some films last year — because a thought process, a political paradigm, andofa their ‘bad planning’ hadcitizen colour-coded relationship between—the and theprintstate, outs the schedule to stay on track this time adds of Dey. jan around.

Some overzealous delegates On December 2, 1994, MKSS held itseven firsthad (public in Kot Kirana village, sunwai the run-time of hearing) films memorised.

Rajasthan.

Hundreds of workers voiced four With fervour running this high, organisademands: openwere up the panchayat records, tional glitches easier to overlook.

The conduct audit, aredressal in the first blowa public came barely few hours intoform day of money to complete works, one with Greek directordevelopment Yorgos Lanthimos’s and government That— first science fiction darkaccountability. comedy The Lobster one public meeting led to films a cycle of festival protests, of the most anticipated of the — which cancelled. came to a head two followed years later a masbeing This was byatfurther sive rally ininBeawar, Rajasthan, the disruptions the schedule.

“Therewhere were hiccrowds pressed thescreenings state government for a cups like delayed and cancellaright to information tions, but we will belaw. back better,” reassured Recently, at a packed hall in Lady Shri Ram Rao, at the closing ceremony.

College students how the There Delhi, was a Dey fair told amount of outrage exmovement unfolded,filmmakers transforming pressed by had participating as from well. a pithy slogan — ‘personal political’ his — into Gurvinder Singh, who wasisscreening Pun-a paisa humare aapki, naseriesfilm of war cries: yeh jabi Chauthi Koot, bitterly complained hi kisi ke ki, yeh panchayat humare aapki, about thebaap subpar sound and picture quality of nahitheatre. kisi ke baap sarkar humare aapka, nahi the “Theki,most disheartening experikise ke ka. Humara hisab ence forbaap a filmmaker is to paisa, see hishumara work literally (This money, panchayat, government washed away.this Wish we had this protested in the

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Deathly info Fortynine RTI activists, including Shehla Masood, have been killed in the last 10 years, but the questions they asked remain sushil kumar verma

is ours, and not your father’s. It is our money, team, has continued to work in the resettleour accounts.) ment colonies, demanding hisab (accountThe same day, across town, Aruna Roy, social ability) from the central and state activist and a pioneer of the RTI movement, governments at the rate of almost 300 RTIs a told the young audience at Indra Prastha Col- month — that is, 10 complaints a day.

What do Seemapuri residents ask for in so lege a different part of the same story. She remany RTIs? The answer is simple: counted the tale of Class IV What happened to your electoral dropoutand Sushila, who attended a Angry and middle halted the screening. promises and our basic rights — press conference in on Delhi, in dejected,” he wrote his Facebook page. our ration, pension, and school 1996, alongside experts ac- captures Singh’s film, set in 1980s and Punjab, the RTI has changed one admission? tivists. When a “semi- Blue Star. tension in theasked wakewhy of Operation It of the worst Even a quick study of the RTIs literate likeIndia her Gold wantssection, went onwoman to win the which relationships that I’ve filed in Seemapuri over the last RTI”, have she replied, “When I send spirits. may helped lift the director’s known, between the myThe sonline-up to the of market ₹10, included I police worldwith cinema films station and the 10 years reveals the denial of basic rights. For instance, an RTI filask him account for everycuriosity ruthat hadto already generated at other victims — Aruna Roy ed in 2013 disclosed that over pee. The government spends bil- Taxi, Tangerfestivals, including Jafar Panahi’s 600 people in the JJ cluster had lions in my whyhad should ine from thename, US, which beenI entirely shot lost the right to vote. Based on a notan askiPhone, for accounts?” on and Chinese indie The Assassin, Delhi police order, certain areas the aearly to In name few. noughties, parts of But Delhi also witnessed anfocused outcry for right to were deemed to harbour ‘illegal Bangladeshthis year’s festival onapromotinformation law. talent Localities Seemapuri ing home-grown and like stories.

The 13 is’, calling for police verification before issuand Sunder whererepresented Arvind Kej- ing voter cards. So, since 2008, voter cards had films in theNagri Indiawere Goldlabs, section riwal’s NGO from Parivartan off a movement filmmakers acrosskicked the country and 14 In- not been issued in Seemapuri, and residents centre the festival are struck now in who already hadThe ID reins cardsofwere simply against corruption in the public distribution dian languages, including Wancho, Bodo, Ha- Command hands ofrolls. film critic Anupama Chopra (right) off able electoral Police verification never system.and Since 2007, however, Pardarshita, ryanvi Chattisgarhi.

Besides India Gold,ana the tookfilmmaker place. Kiran Rao pti offshoot withwas members original new section added, from called the India Story, and which culled out lesser-known yet interesting work across mainstream, regional and experi- year. India-born French director Prashant mental genres. Also, for only the second time Nair’s Umrika, starring Suraj Sharma and Adil in MAMI’s 17-year history, the festival opened Hussain, was another festival favourite that with an Indian film — Hansal Mehta’s Aligarh premiered at MAMI. starring Manoj Bajpai and Rajkummar Rao, No film event in Mumbai is complete withwhich has been receiving rave reviews. out some Bollywood magic, although MAMI A few of the filmmakers in the competition may be the one time when Bollywood fanatics had already won plaudits for are grossly outnumbered by their fresh and original storyworld cinema aficionados. Howtelling at other prestigious fesever, Movie Mela helped keep the tivals. First-time filmmaker balance by hosting entertaining For only the second Ruchika Oberoi, who recently sessions with the cast of Mr India time in MAMI’s 17won the Fedora prize for the and youngsters like Varun Dhayear history, the best young director at the Venwan, Arjun Kapoor, Sonam Kafestival opened with ice Film Festival, premiered poor and Alia Bhatt. an Indian film her film Island City, which is a All things considered, this fesseries of three stories that captival was a vast improvement ture the loneliness of life in over last year’s hurried mess. For Mumbai using dark comedy. the 7,000 passionate delegates Perhaps the most brave and chilling film in who stood patiently in queues, sometimes five this category was Tamil filmmaker Vetrimaa- times a day, one hopes that the festival only ran’s thriller Visaranai. Partly based on a real- gets better with each passing year. As for those life incident, the film tells the story of three Ta- waiting to fill out their next leave applicamil migrant workers in Andhra Pradesh who tions, the organisers have already done them a are falsely jailed for a crime they didn’t do. Pro- favour by announcing that they’ll be back on duced by superstar Dhanush, it was the first October 20 next year.

Tamil film to make it to the competition sec-RTI has changed people’s lives and their relationship with Leading from the front Aruna Roy believes that mohini chaudhuri rohit jain paras this across the country tiondemocracy of the Venice Film Festival earlier

After last year’s Mumbai Film Festival (MAMI), which was a hurried affair, this year the organisers, attendees and film fraternity were better prepared

A

14 10

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watch cover

saturday, november 14, 2015

Shadow lives Placebo is an honest and hard-hitting film about student life at AIIMS — one of the most competitive educational institutions in the world

Arrow in the quiver More than a thousand RTIs were filed by survivors of the Bhopal Gas Tragedy to help them get justice v sudershan

When 25-year-old Kinni Singh, a migrant from Bihar, reached the poll booth in 2012 to cast her vote in the Delhi municipal elections, she found her name missing. “We were informed that our names had been removed because we didn’t provide any proof of Indian citizenship,” says Singh, who was born in a government hospital nearby and attended government school up to Class X. “The Delhi government’s own survey revealed that there were eight cases of Bangladeshi migrants in Delhi and none of them 2011,Seemapuri,” Abhay Kumar, then 25 and a recent were nfrom says Rakesh Agarwal of postgraduate, showed All India InPardarshita.

As Assam heads up for at assembly elecof Medical Sciences (AIIMS) tocitivistionsstitute next year, the longstanding issue of it his a medical student.

He zenship has brother, already reared its head, but here walked out of institutewhich two was yearsdenied later, was a colony in the the Capital withright more 1,000 of footage and the tothan vote on an hours assumption that they storiesbe from deepmigrants within India’s presticould illegal from most Bangladesh. gious medical college.

“In 2013, after we had filed the RTI, they set up a What started an idea to visually docuvoter camp andasissued cards to everyone, ment hisany brother’s recovery after a serious stuwithout verification,” says Singh. dent ended becoming a narrative Or brawl, consider theup case of government that explores thesee, lives of number some of the country’s schools.

“If you the of schools in brightest minds. this area has gone up... on paper,” says Rajiv So what is on their minds? One character Kumar of Pardarshita. hasOnvisions of his however, perfect profile the ground, what itphoto meanson is Facebook, another spouts theories on the nathat a single school building functions as ture ofdifferent time, a third is inwhere a stateone of hysterics afthree schools, classroom ter ingesting copioussections. amountsSo, of the bhaang. holds three separate East Delscreened for the first time building in India, hi Placebo, Municipal Corporation School at MAMI, charts at AIIMSBthrough four difhouses the New life Seemapuri block school on ferent doctors, his own solilits ground andeach firstwith floors, and quirks, the Dilshad oquies back stories.

Kumar’s voiceover Garden and A block school on the second floor in and sequences of animation tie these stories the morning shift.

A third school occupies the together. a campus junkie,” premises “I’m in the afternoon shift.says EachKumar, class29, on the sidelinestoofhave MAMI. “Itmore became an adroom, stipulated not than 40 dictive experience, an exhilarating high, livstudents, accommodates thrice as many. ingSeveral someone RTIselse’s filedlife.” by the organisation have The film, guerrilla-style, entirely on a revealed theshot abysmal state of implementation handycam, was anright. unauthorised exercise; Kuof a fundamental Twenty seven per cent mar stayedgovernment illegally onschools campus.doHe was even of Delhi’s not receive called ‘doctor times, as no one Delhi Jal Boardsahib’ water;atvacancies under the guessed thatare he seldom was a filmmaker. providEWS quota displayedThis on boards; ed him with the candid moments to schools continue to collect fees innecessary the guise of tell the ayahindividual or festivalstories funds,playing despiteout freeagainst and combackdrop of larger under institutional concerns. pulsory education the RTE; and school While the bright-eyed ambition andto pride management committees continue be of the medical students areparents all too(the obvious, chaired by principals, not only darker threads run through the campus, state where thisalso happens). such as thethis tyranny failure, depression and Perhaps abjectofstate of schools explains the of suicides. whyrisk even Mintu Devi’s 18-year-old daughter is not makes has“But filedthis a few RTIs.anAtexposé,” the J&K Kumar block governclear. isn’t really documentary about ment It school, Neetuafiled an RTI last year AIto IMS, as much as it five happens to beinset AIIMS. find out why only students herinclass of

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69 had passed the English exam. “We knew 10 years, but the questions they asked remain. why. Our English teacher came to class at the One in five people knows about the RTI. “Peoend of the academic year. She taught us noth- ple own the act, use the act, and propagate the ing, but recorded some sample audios to sub- act,” says Dey. “Their perceptions of democramit to the school board. I would have to repeat cy are different but they have an equal right. It and tell In the worst relationa year because she neglected her duty,” says (RTI) has changed one ofStitch Placebo individual station and the victhe Class XII student. Neetu was called to the ships: that of the police stories play out against Dalit principal’s office, where she met an irate En- tim,” says Roy, giving the theexample backdrop ofoflarger foughtconcerns back. institutional glish teacher facing suspension. “She told me victims of violence who have placebo Successive governments have tried to weakthat it might take me 11 years, but I would still not pass. I did on the first attempt,” says Nee- en the 10-year-old act. If the UPA government tu, who is now in the same grade as her young- tried, unsuccessfully, to amend the act, implementation has suffered under the “It sister was never about he adds, “It think of a finished er Anshu, 17, the alsoplace,” an product.”

This sense of condispensation.

Politicaluninparcould’ve been any institute.”

RTI-pro. tinuum — current aside from the jerky camera, ties movements continue to in resist unBut AIIMS isn’t just any The accept- hibited rants, While Pardarshita actsinstitute. on timecoming — give the der it.feel.

Compliance of Section 4, one ance rate iscomplaints 0.07 per cent, compared to 7 per movie a visceral individual as as well We may not get the of the most important sections, cent at Harvard and 8policy per cent as issues that affect de- at MIT. We don’t The screening at MAMI was attended byhas Dr answers or policies been Kumar very poor.

“An audit the see how Dey thesesays students got here. cisions, the focus at But once they Chopra, whom first meets in a of hostel we want, but at least, prime minister’s and all chief mindo, the“is battle only just isMKSS on has class-action room on camera.

Chopra we will be heard and isters’ websites their combegun.For The students have sues.” instance, a PIL filed said, “Ireveals am grateful he our questions will be pliance ofmade Section 4. While the PMO different andthe by Roy andambitions Dey examines such a movie.

This asked — Nikhil Dey website offers no disclosures, their struggles vary. One “haphazard implementation is a sensitive topic. Butonly for four chief the ministers have some sort character dreams of in miof MGNREGS and delay payfirst time you see how of information,” say Anjalimedical Bhardgrating to the and US, compensaanother ment of wages undergraduate waj and Amrita Johri, of leadstoa student uprising aftion workers.”

The petition life is…

It is co-authors very sad how and medical memberseducation of Satark ter a suicide onthe campus.

Afcontends that government has arrears of the People’s report, our National Campaign for ter the crore protest, he reflects ₹3,200 in the world’s largest social sec- Nagrik Sangathan and system works.

It is very People’s Right to Information. thatscheme. some of the theatrics tor stressful, and I thank him For eight months,for from August were just for show. The film focusing onlast it.”year to Q&A on education March 2015, the Modi Kumar government was not just about “showtook vacillated the carethe chief informainganother kids smoking pot,” but Shiksha Ka Sawaal over the appointment In campaign called fullyofconsidered decision of appeals douexplores (SSA), the stress at elite Abhiyan launched last year with Rajas- tion commissioner. Pendency to screen his film only afthe MKSS is asking six questions, bled, from 7,560 toter14,516. than Patrika,and According to a institutions how eduhis subjects had gradHindu, from the CICAIIMS, has been including ‘Whatoften is thefailstate of education recent report in Theuated cation systems to fewer across the 85,000 schools in Rajasthan?’ and admitting “fewer and students. protect themcases fromevery any ongoingbacklash. study of 2,000 ‘How do filmmakers we move from towards month this year.” Anpotential While findinformation it Commissions (SICs) accountability?’ easy to direct the Thousands camera at of parents, who CIC and State Information AIIMS is likely to be less halfthrilled of the orders have had never stepped others, Kumar hasn’t inside shied a school before, shows that more than than at how it basicbeen information; are marched offices himself and filed away fromtoputting in RTIs the with the not recorded has portrayedpenalties — adminisincreasingsamePlacebo set of questions.

“Most of these parents not being imposed; film. is not a documentary trativeapplicants apathy andare student disafThe film, ly shot asked to state reasons for filing RTIs; experience at schools that and Kumarthe is same no ‘flyalienation on the wall’ fection included.

“There is and one beingglitch,” dismissed overtold frivolous they do inevents a government office. Now the guerrilla-style, gov- petitions are tiny narrating in a dispassionate Kumar audientirely on a “If the reasons. government were film to see was the ernment He hasisissued an order that all informamanner. as much a participaences after the handycam, RTIwas as aamanagement see a huge tioninwill be available at the blockhis level, which nt, a brutally honest scene screened tool, to they’d a rapturous recompletely potential for sponse, good governance, expendiis a significant order,” says What happens younger brother — lying inDey. a hospi“They stillless don’t know unauthorised in Seemapuri Rajasthan is representative of ture and corruption, tal bed with aor badly damaged right that thisbut filmthey’re exists.”not wedded exercise to the idea of anKumar open culture at all,” says Dey. how RTI has changed people’s hand — upbraids him on cameralives for and their and collaborator ArRoy adds, “What Gandhi the relationship him with and democracy.

According to neglecting obsessing chanaGopal Phadke have said met (at a few last month) is true. There are the 2011-13 ‘People’s Monitoring of the RTI Re- CIC conclave lawyers, about filming. anticipating potential democracy — gime in India’ four million RTIs three things indispensable “I was clearreport, it hadaround to be subjeclegal trouble. for “It’s like gatepeople’s representation of are filed year — that is, more tive,” saysevery the Chandigarh-born Ku-than seven the Constitution, crashing a wedding,” he told the it, and the “You rightwalk to information.

Take awaypeoany RTIs per Fourteen per cent users mar, whohour. adds that he has only seen twoare or audience. in and don’t expect onewill of this, from rural areas, 58 per centlife. from towns and ple three documentaries in his “I was experifindthere out.” is no democracy.” cities, and cent fromThe metropolises.

Forencing it in29a per continuum. film was being kotamraju bhavya dore is a Mumbai-based journalist ty nine RTI activists have beenI killed theand last priyanka constructed at every step. didn’tintry

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Eyes wide shut Shelter from the storm?

UNDISCOVERED COUNTRY

A PhD student documents Delhi’s disturbed sleep — the struggles of the homeless to find a bed for the night India, home to around two lakh refugees, doesn’t have domestic laws to protect them. ities of instead Sleep is a documentary What it offers is a long,that opaque process to those seeking recognition profiles how Delhi’s impoverished

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sleep. The film tracks the city’s informal sleep settlements, how the homeless deal with the problem of finding a bed every night, and the socio-economic pressures that sleep exerts. There are two narratives in the film: one of Shakeel, from Old Delhi’s Meena Bazar, who struggles every night to rent a bed run by a sleep mafia of sorts. The other story looks at the commune built under Loha Pul, where people gather to watch films and share sleeping space. Director Shaunak Sen, 28, a PhD student at Jawaharlal Nehru University, talks about how sleep changes everything.

No rest in peace The harsh Delhi winter is the most difficult time of the year for the city’s homeless reuters/

reinhard krause

How did this film come about?

I had an academic interest in sleep. It has been looked at through the lens of psychology and science, but I was interested in trying to investigate the socio-political pressures that sleep exerts and the informal structures around sleep that permeate the city.

in the tussle over space. partitioned into spaces. There are different Shakeel [one of the main characters] kept kinds of informal set-ups that come up in the following us around, claiming that he could night and disappear in the day. My film shows share a lot of things. He is an outcast even in a two different circuits of sleep. One, more of a space constituted of economic outcasts. He community congregation, the other a better has a conflicted relationship with Jamal [who set-up, well-oiled machinery.

Finding home runs one of the shelters]. How does sleep exert More than 10,000 you take to film? found their You must’ve What made you structure the film the way you pressure as a socio-political vector? For Shak- How long didAfghans way to India, out. with did (one segment is a sleep biography of a eel, sleep changes everything. [A Hindu, he spent many nights among them person, the other on a place)? even changes his name to Shakeel, to fit in a We shot overmany two years, and it took a year to edfinally settling in a Initially we wanted to situate it in Meena Ba- Muslim-dominated locality.] Ranjit [the other it. We’d leave after dinner around 9pm, stay reuters/ third country zar, because it is richly varied. A bustling mar- main character] was an automatic choice; he out till 4am. vasily fedosenko ket in the day, it transforms into a sleeping had a certain sophistication of thought. The space at night. It can also erupt into violence main premise of the film was that the city is bhavya dore f you read the newspapers you will have parliament in 2005, following the overthrow the UNHCR offices. But to be recognised as confronted the massive refugee crisis in of the Taliban. There were few stronger sym- one, you have to go through a difficult and Syria. Angela Merkel’s brave declaration bols of the country’s liberation from the re- opaque process, which may take months of that Germany will absorb almost a mil- gressive Taliban rule than this woman in her paperwork. day. People know them also won’t Andwho during that time you havetalk. to It’s lion refugees has dominated headlines across thirties, who, though not coming from the survive onlyonwhen was researching the music yourI own, with no means of in-with the world. What the headlines don’t say, unfor- cosmopolitan, globetrotting class of the Kabul come, people from that to era that I came to know with no country call home, and with tunately, is that the vast majority of the 15 mil- elite, had triumphed in politics. Unfortunate- nobody about theiryou. lives.Many of the refugees fleeto help lion refugees worldwide are hosted by ly, overthrowing the Taliban was easier than ing to India are, like Atmar, traumatised either Yourorfilm looks at how musicians developing countries, usually the most stable overthrowing the mindset of the male-dom- by war, other forms of Goan violence.

They are haven’t been acknowledged their one across the border from where the refugees inated society. In 2010, Atmar lost her re-elec- anyway not at their best, and thisfor bewildering contribution to the industry.

Why are fleeing. This makes sense, but in the news tion bid, and soon thereafter her process is Hindi often film more than they was that? of war and horror, we are rarely made aware husband started physically abuscan deal with.

IAll that jazz

A Konkani musical evokes memories of a pair of legendary Goan musicians, as well as Bombay of the 1960s

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that both Turkey and Pakistan host more than ing her. A courageous woman, Whether RD (Burman) C Ramchandra, Luckily for or Atmar, just two Hin1.5 million refugees each, fleeing from wars in Atmar filed for, and received, a di film music the influence of aGoan years showed before she fled home, you arrive ardroy Barretto conceived his first time. speaks about theIfgenesis andin India Syria and Afghanistan.

Even a country as tiny musicians.

But of these guyswomen were not too interdivorce in Barretto 2013. Unfortunately, group young lawyers as a refugee, youested. are For feature film, Nachom-ia evolution project. as Lebanon, with a population of less thanKumpasar five this made them it was part-time her ofa the social outcast. had set up The aAra Trust tojob. pro-They on your own. If you Dance to million the Rhythm), 12 years million, hosts(Let’s an additional refugees, were livevide performers. think, being Goans Even Atmar’s own family boycotlegal helpI and counselling Your film is loosely inspired from aretrue lucky, you willthey findwere ago. Looselybigger inspired from the story while Iran, considerably at 77 million, not too ambitious.

Buta they ted her. foralso refugees.

Roshni Shanker, events. How did the project begin? your way to Delhi of legendary Goan musicians Lorna shelters around a million people from the Cordeiro surwere notformer credited.

Butlawyer this happens When Atmar turned to interUNHCR and foun-in all There was music all around and Chris Perry, the 46-year-old advertising rounding war-torn countries. national diplomatic missions for when I was grow- industries. der of the Trust, had explained So I was towards music. The professional’s filmin istheset in10Bombay of the Though India is not top countries help,ing theyup. refused.

Thedrawn embassy the challenges to me in 2013, and stereotype Goans in Hindirefufilms, more I listened to thewhich music, the more I want- There’s aalso 1960s and highlights the club scene of the offering shelter, it is home tojazz approximately of one European country, how theof flow of Afghan which your film remarks on.

Were you also ed toa know musicians.

I two lakh refugees, and that is primarily be- had been major these cheerleader of gees had increased due to viotrying to rectify that? knew there was a bigger story cause we are, thankfully, not surrounded by the Afghan war, insinuated that if they provid- lence that had spiralled out of control. out there.

It could’ve been a doccountries tearing themselves apart (although, ed help to women suffering domestic abuse, Intimately familiar Anywith Pinto be a drunkard. thewill UNHCR’s inner I wanted to an naruntil a year ago, Sri Lanka qualified). The two then umentary, are friends stereotyped drunkthey wouldbut have to shelter uncounta- workings, ShankerGoans and her work as with is difficult to do row it down to one chapter.

So fled I toItInlargest nationalities we have given shelter to ble number. ards. My film has trueyear Goans.

In desperation, Atmar hundreds of displaced people every to We I don’t think took theher lovewhereabouts story as an excuse. are from the Tibetan region — with over one dia, hiding have people from her biopics. own help them get recognition anddrinking, find safe but har- only is Chris and Lorna are theThe primary lakh refugees — and Sri Lanka, with 65,000. In- and her one is areferred drunkard. husband’s families. journey to In-everyone bour. Atmar’s case was to Ara Trust, comfortable talking characters.

Using their songs I storm. dia also plays host to a number of people from dia should have been a shelter from the and she recently received both recognition You to be staggering the aboutand theirresettlement lives Afghanistan due to age-old cultural ties with Sadly,prepared it was not.a playlist and wrote in seem a third country.

In her of the film. Why is the scenes between. host, India is not case a victory wasscreening the nation. A little more than 10,000 Afghans Despite beingin a welcoming won, but in too many cases that? have found themselves in India, with many of a signatory to the 1951 Refugee Convention. such battles are lost, because nobody knows, Why did you fictionalise it film remainswith in the them finally settling in a third country.

Nor does it have a domestic law on refugees. If nobody cares, andAwe continue ourtheatre lives for instead of doing a biopic? weeks.

Wethe wanted to keep it A recent Afghan refugee was Noorzia Atmar. you arrive in India as a refugee, you are on without a seconda few thought for tragedies is difficult to do biopics. don’t think everyrelevant for two years. We will be comYou would not have heard of her as a guest of your Itown.

If you are lucky, you Iwill find your that surround usat onleast all sides. oneDelhi, is comfortable about lives. So pleting one year since the first screening in our country, but you may have heard of her as way to which is talking the only placetheir where Omair Ahmad is the South Asia Editor t@OmairTAhmad I had to fictionalise it. Also, as Chris died inat2000, Goa. We don’t want two-week glory. one of the first women elected to the Afghan you can apply to be recognised a refugee for The Third Pole, reporting on water so there was no way of getting his version. And issues in the Himalayas Lost strains A still from Nachom-ia Kumpasar; (inset) maker Bardroy Barretto people don’t talk about [their story] even to- bhavya dore

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Doing good and Mintu Devi’s do-gooding

magic wand

Journalist Larissa MacFarquhar’s Strangers Drowning is far more insightful than much of philosophical literature, as she asks what it is like to live a life of moral extremity As the Right to Information Act completes 10 years, we examine how RTI has changed people’s lives, become a byword for democracy, and helped alter the relationship between citizen and state

You to the rescue When the clouds loom large and waves rise high, is our instinct to jump in and save the child? afp/aris messinis

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arissa MacFarquhar has been a staff writer at the New Yorker for the last 17 years. Her journalistic speciality is the profile, but her profiles, of people and organisations, have a fierce integrity like nothing else in contemporary journalism. The essays in Strangers Drowning are profiles of people she labels ‘do-gooders’. The term is not usually a compliment, suggesting a wellmeaning busybody, but it is one of the marks of MacFarquhar’s achievement that she restores the term to its simple and literal sense. intu relationship the She does not doDevi’s this by choosing with subjects changed thesome day she who are easy ration to like.shop On the contrary, of filed RTI.book In theare jhuggis of New the do-gooders inan this thoroughly Seemapuri, situated on the unpleasant. Their goodness is not spontanenortheastern Delhi, she in is her a legend. ous. They planedge theirofgood deeds, excelThe of four is anofAntyodaya lent37-year-old phrase, “inmother cold blood”.

Some them are Anna holder — the pink pamore Yojana moved (AAY) by thecard abstract idea of suffering per the ‘poorest the poor’, whose thanissued by theto suffering of anof actual person.

Othincome is lessbythan ₹250 per disregard month. Her ers are driven a pathological for household is entitled a monthly their own comfort: onetoof receive her subjects, Baba supply of ration subsidised prices —to25kg of Amte, seems to at have been inspired work wheat ₹2/kg, 10kg of rice ₹3/kg, sugar amongatleprosy patients lessatby theirand suffering at ₹13.50/kg.

But for “life nearly years she rethan by his need to three be difficult”. ceived ration,are, until she not finally lodged a Manyno of them though by intention, complaint in 2012. cruel to their friends and spouses, even when At Hans Malhotra Sons, onetooffind the they shareRaj their ideals.and They seem dozen fair morally price shops (FPS) in very Seemapuri, something suspect in the idea of Mintu Deviorwas away time and time friendship loveturned or family.

These things, they again.

Twice every month, shebut would fear, “may look like selflessness, [are]queue really up the shop, clutching hercare AAYofcard.

“They justatan extension of taking yourself.” would shout and away.

Sometimes, The do-gooding of send Baba me Amte’s wife Indu falls they show me “The discarded tell underwould this category: evil inhusk this and world,” me collect my she says. she to believes, “is ration,” the creation of those who Morea than 7,000 migrant families fromand Bimake distinction between the self har, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal and Assam reother.” side resettlement colony and clusters, Butinitthis turns out that this distinction is not

M Strangers Drowning Voyages to the Brink of Moral Extremity Larissa MacFarquhar Penguin UK ₹1,700

so easy to eliminate from our thought. One of save this child, why should it make a differMacFarquhar’s cautionary tales is that of Aa- ence if the child in danger is thousands of me howtoSchool ron Pitkin, a tireless campaigner for chicken miles away? If we can help,Tell we ought even if students as young as welfare. When his girlfriend Jen complains the cost to ourselves is large.

16 have proved to be about the unwashed dishes and laundry in Singer’s example gives MacFarquhar’s book effective users and the house, he tells her that every minute spent its title. The argument itself has provoked campaigners for RTI a shiv kumar pushpakar , just washing the dishes is time lost to the animal large literature of responses, some arguing MintuaDevi (inset), rights movement. She can’t think of a counter- that physical distance doeslike make difference who used it to claim argument. All she can say is, “But I need it, I to our duties, others that the solution had to her ration priyanka kotamraju want it, I’m asking you.” It is part of the logic of be collective rather than individual, yet others one kind of do-gooding MacFarthat there is more to life than quhar is interested in that there the claims of morality. Her own chiefly employed as daily is always something else wage with aworkers, con- mapuri,’ carried out is bybyNGO Pardarshita, response a good measure struction labourers, greater claim on ourrag-pickers, time and at-and domestic which works on RTI insightful in the area,than 47 per cent of more much help.

Mintu works or at the the anganwadi, tention than Devi the dishes households inthis E44 philosophical and E46 blocksliterature. of the JJ MacFarquhar is too while is a daily wage worker.

De- cluster personher wehusband love. possess In Mintu perceptive to do notShe does ration not askcards. whether Singfrom nied her ration is and each visitconclude to the just MacFarquhar toobullied, perceptive Devi’s block, E44, 40 per cent ofshe BPLasks (beer’s nearly principle is right; is line) FPS was an ordeal that brought Devithat to morality to conclude just from this thatMintuthis low poverty holders don’t whatand it isAAY likecard to live it. Where thediya last refuge ofration.others tears.

“Baar bhaga raheof the, to RTI daal morality is baar the last refuge the receive In her case, had worked like haveRTI looked for arguthe scoundrel (They madeShe mefeels, run around, so of I filed an RTI),” scoundrel. like many a magic wand.ment, The complaint wasstories, filed, action she gives us some she says, shrugging herappeal thin her subjects, the powerful was taken in disturbing, a time-bound moving, some but shoulders. wasphilosopher threatenedPeat of an essay She by the manner, her ration was all of themand gripping. aterpublic meeting byearly the Singer.

Writingcalled in the regularised.

But behind these Her book ends on an approshop owner.the“I Bangladeshi had returned 1970s about refadministrative priately uncertainmeasures, note. Life, asa They made me run from my village Bihar that a deceptively ugee crisis, Singer in came up with elemental shift had ocwe ordinarily understand it, is impossible around, so I filed an RTI more day.

People camefor and told me in the west simple argument why people — without curred.for Mintu Devi hadtoquesindifference the — Mintu Devi a capacity that theanyone shopkeeper, aided by loindeed who counts as affluent by glob- world’s suffering: tioned, and demanded there is so much of itanswers that to cal muscle, had sworn to tear duty my to donate a have it always on al standards — have a moral from, traditional strucone’s mind is topower open oneself limbs if I of didn’t back to myeffective char- “to a sense of unlimited, large part theirtake incomes tures — the neighbourhood racrushing responsibilcomplaint.”

At with the Department ities that work the world’s poorest peo- ity”. The do-gooders tion shop, government offices who keep their sanity are of Supplies and Consumer Affairs, her and ple,Food, at least 10 per cent, probably much more. state.

By exercising right to know, thosethe who “found their limither and accepted it”. grievance was similarly dismissed.

Butsee shea she “If I am walking past a shallow pond and also accessed her right toitfood.

Inthat the last MacFarquhar concludes that is best not stood her groundinand on the RTI. three child drowning it, Ifollowed ought toup wade in and years, she has atextreme least “100do-gooder, RTIs” and everyone aspires tofiled be an In a little overout. a month, a cheque for around pull the child This will mean getting my held theshould government accountable.

Thesome narbut we be deeply grateful that ₹7,000 arrived at That was the row, clothes muddy, buther thisdoorstep. is insignificant, while dark nowour teem withtoo scores of people do.lanes MostofofE44 us find limits soon. bill three years’ worth of essential supplies the for death of the child would presumably be a Mintu Devis, who use RTI to wield their demonakulrights. krishna is a lecturer in philosophy at the for household. veryher bad thing.” From this, Singer proceeds to cratic of Cambridge to aconclusion: 2013 study iftitled ‘Lifeduty in SeehisAccording astonishing it is our to University Last month the Right to Information Act

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EXTRACT

Break for lunch In The Strange Haunting of Model High School three BFFs — Lara, Mallika and Sunu — realise something is afoot when an unknown boiled egg smell invades the classroom

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td VIIB was in an unexpectEven muffins faded into insignifiedly peppy mood. cance before this paragon. Lara The boiled egg smell had looked up with a sudden un-Larabeen awful while it lasted. like sparkle. Mallika clutched her But now, a bit like a pongy Santa bosom and yelped. ‘Hold still my Claus, it had vanished into the great beating heart. What did Suhail say? and smoggy unknown, leaving beWhether you like it or not, Sunu, I’m hind unexpected gifts. crushing on him.’

First, the mystery stink had pro‘Shut up, Mallika,’ Sunu snipped. vided a topic of endless discussion.

‘I’m trying to tell you. His principal Some girls floated a theory about called all the captains for a meeting. demonic experiments in the bio lab.

Apparently there’s going to be a Others preferred the one about joint concert between Model Girls alien landings. The most popular School and Modern Boys School and idea was that Zubeida Zanwar ...’ brewed potions in the chemistry ‘Maddorwot?’ Mallika squealed, laboratory with scorpions and ding-donging between excitement saliva. and disbelief. ‘What kind of conBetter still, Miss Jhaveri was so ratcert? Singing? Plays? Together? tled by her close encounter with Saath saath? Haathon mein haath?’

Light of the matter the Adyan Diwali is often the favourite time of the year sibi arasu non-veg that she’dFor taken to hercommunity, bed.

‘Sir Singh will be so happy with Which meant no maths for three your Hindi,’ Sunu chuckled, while whole days!

Lara gasped, ‘It can never be togethSo when the bell rang for the er. We’d break about 20 rules during short break at 11am on Thursday, Std every rehearsal.’

VIIB bounced out of the classroom Sunu nodded, while Mallika in high spirits. The girls grabbed straightened herself and quoted, their snack boxes and headed for ‘The Students’ Handbook’, Chapthe corridor in giggly groups. Sunu ter 9, Interaction with Neighbourand Mallika scuttled to their favouing Schools: rite corner, just next to the forbid1) The pupils of Model Girls will den, polished wooden staircase. not in any way try to communicate Lara drifted up a few minutes later. with the pupils of neighbouring Sunu opened her Lock ‘n’ Lock boys’ schools. orwith Samicrumbly (14), Lakshmi (20), box, filled cheese bis-Sudha and ganising art camps and other events. “Often, says Revathi.2)“AWaving bridge school was not enough from the verandahs or Murugammal (both 19), Kumar (11), after a long holiday, fewer children return to though. The cuits from Paris Bakery. ‘Delish,’ Malchildren fit into govcalling out iscould strictlynot forbidden.

Mahalakshmi (9), and into their 150-odd the school. A high dropout rate is one of our ernment schools lika exclaimed, before peeping after justdown six months us.

3) Throwing noteswith to the Diwali ortheany festival, biggest problems,” says Revathi. her own schoolmates, steel dabba, groaning So the idea kept of evolving, bringing us to pupils neighbouring boys’ for that matter, would have been an agonising atrically and then striking a tragic Formerly employed in the Tamil film indus- where we schools are today.” will be punished by instant affair, if not for their school. pose. try, she had set up the school with the help of Vanavil expulsion. has grown into a full-fledged activTheseischildren belong to the nomadic boom fellow-volunteers she’d met in the aftermath ity-based learning ‘Woe me centre, spread over two 4) Throwing down other objects boom or Adyan community, of the 2004 tsunami.

Oncemaattukaran again idli. acres, andlike withbobby a 15-acre abutting it. simiChilpinsfarm or belts will be which is you so marginalised that even the schedFie on Mrs Rao Recalling the horrific scenes of devastation dren are admitted from kindergarten up to larly punished. uled tribe statuswe has eluded it so far.

Such cruelty cannot allow!’ left by the tsunami, she says, “The first few Class V. Those orphaned or otherwise unable ‘Unless it’s an atom bomb, in sight across TamilpheNadu during days, the only thing to do was to clear bodies; to go home ‘IA familiar think your mum makes can stay the will school’s hostel the till which caseinyou be given festivals, members of this community nomenal idlis. Anyway, we can go from there was even a dead child. I was not able to they finishRangachari high school in one of theScience,’ nearby Prize for Moral door toLara door seeking alms in theher company of do this, so I started looking for share,’ said and she opened government schools. chimed Lara, and the three friends an ox, which nods tosix the ‘boom, other ways I could help. It was by Winnie the Pooh boxits andhead found In the 10 years,crumb-scatmore than collapsed inlast a snorting, boom’ drumming by itsGranny owner. SylOut of sheer chance that we met Murugamperfect lemon muffins.

1,500 children from the commutered heap. the strange haunting of model high school desperation, theya push even their children to mal, who later became one of via always baked little extra for her been educated.

Three of Anity fewhave months ago, Mallika had This community is beg or sell cheap wares on the streets to sup- our first students, when she granddaughter and her gang. them, M Lakshmi, K Sudha and conducted a survey of the entire clawing its way to plement family’s And fes- about Mallikathe and Sunu meagre squealedincome. their approval came toSuhail us begging with a mal- claim its rightful place was because Murugammal, have gone ononto school, and found that there were tivalssettled are seen as lucrative opportunities, as her and down to eat. When only a few nourished child. him Thisso was friends found college, and many more are set to ly two windows through which you in society people are usually Sunu willing to part exclaimed, with a few fascinating. crumbs remained, suddenly strange because Nagapattinam follow suit.toss A community could possibly a note or a which Kitkat rupees than usual.

‘Imore almost forgot.

I have news!’ was littered with boys reliefwere materialMiss Jhaveri was so Most Modern margins into was the beyond Modernthe Boys’ side isofclawthe However, it’s a different ‘What?’

Mallika asked. kind of Diwali for pimply, and I was surprised mumbly nothing young- had rattled by her close ing its way claim its rightful compound.

The to first involved climbthe‘I don’t children of ifthis at sters know it’s community true, though,’studying Sunu said. reached When probedencounter with nonwhoher. would hopwebareplacethe in society. ing onto pot of the third floor loo Vanavil, decade-old school ‘In fact, Ithe don’t really believe it.’in Keezhakaray- foot further, that her community, the taken on we therealised Bandra-Worli To hasten process, plans tosecset and this risking yuckyVanavil infections.

The veg that she’d iruppu village, about scolded. eight kilometres from Sealink ‘Just tell us,’ Mallika Adyans, had no relief since they were to received avoid dealing learningcharging centres for ond involved intothe theadyan printo her bed up two more Nagapattinam town.

‘Well, according to Suhail ...’ she started, as with not in any administrative datasheet.” Revathi community.

Madam Principal’s That, in turn, would cipal’s office, conking her mean on themore head Theher school raises funds for this fes- wards. both friends looked upspecially with sudden interand a few volunteers Butother Suhail was nei-stayed back in Na- Diwali celebrations for more children.

Sawith her Zonta’s award, tossing aAsnote tivalSuhail everywas year, and older the children are given est.

Sunu’s brother and he at- ther gapattinam themumbly next few months and de- mi, who out pimplyfor nor wasofrescued from and begging in Keralaa her window then beating new clothes, festive meals and nor tended Moderncrackers, Boys. cidedshy. to setHe uphad a bridge school of sorts for the along with smiling hisretreat. two orphaned siblings, exults, hasty Both of which sounded sweets for the celebrations.

“If we did nother do brown Usually, Sunu avoided talking about children of this community, whofalling were overeyes, floppy hair that kept into like “It’s too mymuch favourite time of the year. Everyone trouble. this, the children, outsisters of an eagerness to celebrother.

Like most she thought her his whelmingly eyes andilliterate. manners that could charm a bursts crackers together… semma jolly-aasiruk‘Simpler just to send a text,’ said Sunu, the brate thewas festival, would most likely tak- lamppost. brother boring.

Also,have it was never a good “We wanted break begging habit.

The three Also,tohe was the a swimming and tenku (it’schortling jolly good fun).” shut their snack boxes friends en toto working or begging up with the nis idea talk about the boystoincome the school — not community was completely but and reluctantly headed back to class. champion and the sportsagainst captainthis, of Modmoney,” sayswere R Revathi, founder-member of ern even if they your real brothers, brotherthe children likedastofar come... got cycles, sibi arasu is a journalist based in Chennai. This article Boys (which, as hisWeschoolmates was produced with assistance from Building a Voiceoffor minwalla is a journalist and author the cousin school.brothers Even during the summer break, were ike, or rakhi-brothers. took them to movies every oftenas and slowly concerned, made himso almost divine as shabnam Children, a PII-Unicef fellowship Six Spellmakers of Dorabji Street theBut school keeps the children engagedtalking by or- the the real reason why she avoided triedcaptain to introduce literacy andTeam). numeracy,” The of the Indian Cricket

Boom boom… off to school Festivals meant a time of begging for children of a marginalised nomadic community in Tamil Nadu. It took one school to put some cheer back in their lives

F

The Strange Haunting of Model High School Shabnam Minwalla Scholastic Fiction ₹199

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Gutting the fish wasn’t any easier. “I can’t get the gills out,” I said, having hooked my finger into the fish’s belly, and tickled it persuasively for a while.

The woman opposite me, having already finished, looked superior. “Shall I help you?”

“No, no, I will de-gill my own bass!” I said, clutching it. The bass had now acquired, in my mind, the Leviathan dimensions of Moby Dick; I was convinced it was mocking me.

I tried again, tugging at the hard, curved gill plate. The sharp, jagged red gills came away in my hand. I used my knife to snap the ribs, and cut two very messy fillets.

I looked around: through cellphone and social media aboutev-a eryone’s vendetta fillets were of planned varying for beauty and horrible being people of size, but mine were thetriggering smallest. a shocking north-eastern origin, I redeemed myself by turning out to be surmass flight from Indian cities normally too prisingly good at skinning the fish (not very busy to think about ethnicities. useful, since only remove the skin for stew Clearly anyou honourable accommodation of and tartare), andbe pin-boning, which we imdiversity would far more for manageable for itatedaspiring Christophe (“feel along the flesh”), the democratic dispensation in stroking our fish in a creepy manner,That feeling Myanmar than continuing exclusion. is a for of theadvice hair-sized bones, we bit Indiasecondary is well-placed towhich give, but eased out with prefers not to tweezers. because its engagement with it was time toseems cook. increasingly We all diced our theThen neighbourhood dri“lessby beautiful” into one-cm bitscurrent for the ven a securityfillet agenda.

Myanmar’s tartare (Ipoints addedtowards the bits escalating I’d massacred), seacourse tensions sonedBangladesh, them with where lemonazest and juice, secushalwith determinedly lots and olive oil, and put them in thedomestic fridge. larist government is already facing Christophe rinsedforces. the bones, heads unrest from Islamist And that holdsand the scraps for our fish stock, and soaked conflicts them in potential of triggering localised cold water let the of impurities leach out. After across vastto swathes Indian territory. that, two of us cooked theneighbourhood scraps with shallots India’s most intimate relain butter,with deglazing them whitephase. wine, tionship Nepal is also with in a rocky bay honest leaves, parsley, and thyme.

We added waAn and candid gaze inwards would ter and left that the constitution-making, stock to reduce, skimming have shown particaway the scum at intervals. ularly in the matter of power-sharing between Next up were withistheir succurival regional andartichokes; ethnic claims, never easy.

The ballot or the...? On election-eve in Myanmar, there were worries in neighbouring countries about the lent, unearthly these just asand, beauIndia took yearspetals, settling the were principles in Rohingya Muslims looking towards the sea for salvation rather than the ballot box ap/ gemunu amarasinghe tifulrealm as the fish, and as intractable. the of practice, thejust process still continChristophe held histoknife stillaand rotated the ues.

Yet in seeking impose power-sharing ecent weeks have seen India step out The disenfranchisement of large ethnic mi- deal artichoke against knife, of paring off the favouring thehis people the terai or petthe in style to create new bonds with norities, principally the Rohingya Muslims in southern als as it turned, in towards heart. plains,cutting India demands thatthe Nepal do Africa, laying out a generous credit Myanmar’s western provinces, has now be- as Weittried to follow, our says rather thannonchalantly does. There istwirling no explanaline of $10 billion as inducement for come official, with even Nobel peace laureate tion, artichokes onlyand ended up slashother like thantops, the but narrow unstated seboosting business with the continent. The and democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi unwill- curity ing at agenda the hapless veggies.a Gouging out thea of creating “buffer within third India-Africa Forum Summit late in Octo- ing to make their case for citizenship. On elec- buffer” furry inedible ‘choke’, werethe leftsubsequent with only a against China.weAnd ber was suffused with much mutual goodwill, tion eve, there were worries in neighbouring blockade tenth of the “Thisinto is a very uneconomical onbud. supplies Nepal, supposedly with visiting leaders invoking India’s inspira- countries about another refugee flight, about “informal”, vegetable,” said woman has one caused greataccusingly. hardship in the tional role in liberation movements across the Rohingya looking towards the sea for sal- landlocked The uneconomical were stircountry andartichokes a sharp escalation in their continent. Unfortunately, they drew on vation rather than the ballot box. fried with fennel and hazelnut oil. Three peoill-will towards India.

Fish fingers Chef-instructor showsIndian how to gut and a sea bass naintarapolicy, maya oberoi political traditions thatChristophe the current It fillet normally is good when a country pleMaladroit were assigned to sauté the skin-on sea bass politics in Jammu and Kashmir leadership does not much care for. embarks on democratic renewal, to impose has fillets, whileathe othersrift deglazed thethe pans with created growing between princiAn urban mythology has emerged around the statute of limitations on myths of origin. pal white wine,ofthen made infused garlicregions India’s mostan complex state and is not most it people’s the currentutting Indianfish regime, crediting with a Whether descaled them, runningare ourindigenous knives at anto angle the Rohingya the acream whisked The together risingsauce. tide ofChristophe militant sentiment. contin-a ideadistinct of a fun dayall out, and past. frankly, foreign policy from things In- western across their slippery backs. Little grey scales uing Rakhine province or immigrants vinaigrette and salad for the tartare, transactions in overheated rhetoric then with notafter something you will ever be from deed, coming Nehru’s equidistance from poppedregions off and that flew everywhere the table, Pakistan are today — Bangladesh showed us how plate ourofdishes at home in and thetoparalysis dialogue — and, obliged do,pragmatic unless you’re on would all power blocs andtothe engageour clothes, hair. My to neighbour’s fisha shot seem our immaterial the contours new increasingly, small, cheffy towers (“Myties mother be to so imof cultural — dowill little Masterchef.

But as someone who’s always stratbeen republican ments of the 1990s, the current regime’s out of his hand onto the table,the like an escaping pressed,” someone compact.

If true, said). Assistants wrapped prove matters. a little uncertain about to buy and cook immigration egy of expanding India’show spheres of influence, silver bullet. theory We snipped wouldoffapup of stock, tartare, In portions the tiny Maldives, a state filof fish, I couldn’t the lure of Borrowing an A-Z course is portrayed as aresist paradigm shift. its ply the papery sideand fins,distant the unfurto the dim past. lets and sauce for everyone. emergency prevails, with an inwhich promised to turn you into a fish master, idiom from French history, which marks out And led spiky barbsthe of legacy the beautireversing of the Back home, I froze thejoining stock, cumbent Vice-President The subsequent able toconstitutional pick out fish, strip it down, and cookInit. past every change by a number, ful dorsal fin,set andoffthechain tail. reaccould but the former tartare president and the fillet convicted Moonmyself supplies Iblockade redeemed by hammad What current I was most interested though, was dia’s foreign policy in, orientation has tions “Now, knives damage. steady,” Chrisof lasting made a Nasheed pleasant, in if small prisondinon into Nepalout hasto caused turning be seeingdescribed if I could as hack as a hands-on fishmon- tophe been theit“third republic”. sang,2012, using a thin, benIn June ethnic violence ner. The charges. citric acid hadhad turned terrorism India sigasurprisingly sharp escalation in good at ger, the blood and guts.

Inamong the flourish of Prime Minister Narendra broke dy filleting knife to his out between thetake Rohingya the raw opaque, and with nalled its bass displeasure at Nashill-will towards the fishIndia (not eed’s The ‘A-Z of A Whole Seayear, Bass’India’s took place at and Modi’s swearing-in last neighbass Buddhists apart as ifinitRakhine were Lego. prov- skinning the persecution tart honey-lemon vinaiby excluding the Atélierwas desmarked Chefs studio, bright, in glassbourhood as firstapriority for- ince, “Be strong, don’t hesitate. leading to a state of emer- very useful, since you the grette andfrom spinach salad, it Maldives the Prime Minonly remove the skin for ister’s roofed atelier near Yet, thein Gare eign engagements. nowSaint-Lazare. reaching outWe to gency.

Here, here, here, andrelatively here.

Killings were madeitinerary a pretty,when refreshing starthe went on were five amateur cooks, each with a sea bass Africa — and indeed in seeking a footprint in few, Your turn!” but a hundred thousand stew and tartare), and a grand er. Thetour filletofwas flathe crisp Indianand Ocean pin-boning to tackle. diverse parts of the world — India is trying to were I made a decisive along displaced.

Thecut following vourful in its ingentle neighbourhood March.garlic The European or branzino, isturbulent an ocean- month, step over seaanbass,increasingly what looked like the fish’s Bodo militias in the Indian state of As- message though, sauce, though theeluded accompanyseems to have its indwelling predator with shiny silver-blue sam neighbourhood. cheek, thenattacking plunged my knife branded illegal tended audience. began Muslims ing ‘fricassée’ was bland at best. scales.

“See how it is — no ChrisMyanmar wentfresh to the polls onsmell!”

November 8 immigrants. along the bass’s Again, backbone, the scale of displacement It had been acome well-spent, if Rifts in the neighbourhood at a time tophe, ourgeneral chef-instructor “Andcentulook, was in the first election insaid. a quarter headvast. to tail, and along bel- broke out in when the international Within weeks,the violence visceral day.

I’d is got my hands press increasingly look into itsrepresented eyes!” ry.

Though as a milestone in ban- Cox’s ly, where the blade slipped, making a much Bazaar district of Bangladesh, with taking dirty and learntnotice all about of forces a fish; adverse of the innards extremist Everyone stared into their fish’sscepticism eyes. “We Buddhist ishing fear and restoring freedom, larger incision than I’dand intended. habitations temples being pil- gaining I’d also learnt that fish was less ground in cooking India under the far benign wantrife them glistening, glassy.

Thejunta gills laged was about the intentnot of the military Both instructor and burnt. and bass looked at me gaze complicated than I’dModi. thought.

I probably of Prime Minister The moral pedesshould be very and its floppy.a mournfully. sponsoring the red, election.

Thebody juntanot retains “Ah, someone has really wielded The cycle of violence spread westwards to tal won’t be sending as mytoo CV istothe theillusion fishmonger is crumbling, of a What weof arethe looking is rigor mortis, quarter seats for in parliament andwhich with Mumbai, the knife where with enthusiasm,” said, “third protests by aChristophe fundamentalist anytime soon, though. republic”. shows it has justchanges been fished.”

We alla bent to group constitutional requiring threepronouncing ‘enthousiasme’ like itin meant escalated into a major affray which an independent naintaramuralidharan maya oberoi is aisfood writer basedwriter in look earnestly for rigor mortis. fourth vote, possibilities of further reform are two ‘murderous tendencies’.

“Never mind, you can were killed and police deployments at- sukumar based in Gurgaon and Shimla Parisresearcher t@naintaramaya Then we were let loose on the bass. First, we tacked. severely constricted. use that bit for the tartare.”

Rumours soon began circulating and

STATES OF MATTER MEAL TICKET

Gut façade instinctcrumbles The

Learning clean the innards is the best way put well the fear Tensions to in the neighbourhood show that all to is not in the “third republic” of cooking fish to rest

naintara sukumar maya oberoi muralidharan

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Soul-fixing in Konya At the heart of everything in this laid-back Anatolian city, lies the barkat (grace) of Rumi, the Sufi mystic, philosopher and poet who spent the last years of his life here

Plus size A Walmart-owned Best Price Modern Wholesale store in Agra; the American company requires about four acres to build a 60,000-sqft outlet like this

Giant takes a wholesale bite

The spirit lives on The Mevlana (master) Square in Konya is named after Rumi shutterstock/ruzgar344

Shelving its retail FDI plans, Walmart is focusing its energies on mom-and-pop stores, small oon after arriving in Konya, I set out in a cash-and-carry market pegged at $300 billion traders, hoteliers and caterers

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on a search for a fixer of soles. My most comfortable sandals, my most sturdy travel companions for years, are comSharma, thenot owner of to Rajpart Raing apart athetan the soles and I’m ready food courtfor in aAgra, stop with them.soi I am looking shoecannot repair shop about the mausoleum. one-stop-shopI in the sidegushing streets off Rumi’s from which heback sources want my soles fixed, glued on, I nearly explainevto erything needed mochi. for his He restaurant — from the a genial-looking speaks no English. furniture and groceries piecesa Can’t be done, he shakes to hisdecorative head. Just then and cutlery.

Shopping on alternate days, hea young woman in a headscarf, and holding saves up to peeps ₹3 lakh month at the smartphone, intoa his tiny shop andover im60,000-sqft Besta friend Price, owned by the mediately calls and hands herworld’s phone largest retailer, Walmart. to me. The friend speaks English! I tell him to Andhra everyfix Sunday evening, askInthe mochiPradesh, why he can’t my soles.

They Sambasivarao the Best Price outlet locatare too old, thevisits adhesive won’t work, is the reed 45 km from It is here ply.about Disappointed, I takeVijayawada. back my sandals and that he buys the home appliances, furniture prepare to leave.

My young intercessor, Zeypieces, confectionary, cereals and a range of neb, runs a souvenir shop next door and inother items that he her stocks sale because at his SriI vites me to sit with for for a while Krishna Best SaleIn supermarket. advanlook distraught. her shop, overThe glasses of tage: savings in transportation sweet,huge black Turkish tea, we bond costs with and the ahelp range of products unmatched by the of Google Translate and laugh likeother silly wholesalers andcloses dealers nearwe him. girls. When she shop, go for dinner. I more than seven years for her the tellAfter her waiting I’m a writer.

She tells me about elusive government for foreign directI’m infamily. By the time I nod get back to the hotel vestment (FDI) retail, American giant Walgetting over myin sandals. mart is nowinfocusing energies the likes I arrived Istanbulitsthree dayson earlier and

of Sharma and Sambasivarao. It has found its ing to industry estimates. “It is an attractive mooring in the cash-and-carry wholesale for- market. We have established a good business mat — where FDI up to 100 per cent is permit- model and are happy with our current perted. Walmart’s target clients include kirana or formance. That makes us bullish about investmom-and-pop store owners, small traders, ho- ing further in India,” says Iyer. teliers and caterers in a wholesale market that He had to virtually rebuild Walmart India afis pegged at $300 billion. ter the company was involved in Krish Iyer, who took over as a lobbying controversy, followed President and CEO of Walmart by massive staff exodus in 2012India after the company called 13. “I think it wasn’t challenging What works for us is off its joint venture with Bharti (to get moving again), but we the direct-to-store over Tea, Turkey’s Enterprises in late 2013, says,The cup runneth needed a focused approach… model “Growth here (in India) is drivenfavourite beverage shutterstock/jokerpro cash-and-carry was the logical by domestic private consumpchoice.” tion and not exports. With the Efforts to grow the company’s after a couple of days ofof fretting (the base master) in Turkey.

Kocurrent business model cash- and waiting known as Mevlana customer include a strong in queues at the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Pal- digital nya turns into a “I bustling the time and-carry, where we sell to business members, strategy. believecity thataround a vast majority ace believe — the usual tourist trapspotential — with great relief Rumi’s annual urs (the day ofstores unioniswith we there is a great with the of sales even in brick-and-mortar digboarded bus to the green and high-plateau his Beloved) in mid-December.

Devotees fairly lowapenetration of modern retail.” itally influenced.

We have rolled out a and B2B town of Konya, about 700 km away. Visiting (business-to-business) lovers of mystical poetry throng where to Konya. website memIndia will buy Konya has been on my wish list for long. Rumi bers I’mcan glad I visited in Aprilor —place fewerorders tourists, check the products on (1207-1273)by lived the last of his life in Ko- the coolWeb and or sunny weather, hotel rooms Globally, 2020 the years mom-and-pop-store call us at the vacant store and make ennya and itisisexpected here thattohe composed mag- quires and thousands of colourful tulips. business grow by $800his billion, while placing an order.” num opus, Mathnawi.

HeIndia, is lovingly Standing under theishushed air of the handgreen of which $140the billion will be in accordMore interesting the company’s

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holding strategy for (grave store in owners, which dome of Rumi’s mezar Turkish), sur- mystical philosophy. Idris, the night clerk at seems to by be turquoise bringing in loyal customers. QuFor my friendly, family-run hotel shows me the rounded tiles, calligraphed Sambasivarao’s for instance,gold Walmart ranic verses, andstore, the embroidered cloth samovar: “Have cay (tea) whenever you want.”

Getting there saleshis executives helped plan the layout, prod- The entrance to the Mevlana Muzesi is free. Alover tomb, my prayers become unfocused.

Turkish Airlines has daily flights uct category sequencing and Ieven trained so free of charge is the whirling sema performRendered unnecessary almost, feel prayers from Delhi to Istanbul. From store employees on standards for display and ance by the Mevlevi dervishes, held every are already understood.

Istanbul’s Otogar, a $20 bus ride audit. businesspleas. development associates Mine“Our are wordless For self. For world. I Saturday night at the impressive Mevlana Kulto Konya comes with free snacks go tobewildered shops andand hotels to signand up pulled new memfeel helpless out- tur Merkezi (Mevlana Cultural Centre). As I and Wi-Fi. Or fly Turkish Airlines bers,”ofsays Iyer.

Members enrolled within a watch the dervishes whirl to the accompaniside time, beyond the are rational mind-frame from Istanbul to Konya (about 20/40-km of each I’m usuallyradius trapped in. outlet to ensure that ment of a live orchestra, along with thousands $40 one way). customers doKaa’ba not have spendI’ve more than 30- of rapt spectators in the dimly-lit grand audiI’m at the of to lovers. come here 40 minutes in commuting. seeking what the deficient, the incomplete torium, I feel entranced by the call of the soulStay Moreover, small businesses like Sambasiva- ful ney (reed flute) and the swirl of the ones, seek: completeness.

Rumi Hotel, just across from rao’s are saving lot of money byentrance using WalRumi’s words,ainscribed at the to flower-like white skirts. They seem lost in their Rumi’s mezar, offers a mart’s transportation services. For each dance, in their quest of union with the One. his mausoleum, address me: sumptuous breakfast buffet.

Kaabat usshaq bashad eencharges maqam ₹11 for Their arms are crossed across the chest to repcarton of ul products, Walmart Smaller and cheaper Otel Cinar, Har ke naqas aamad eenjaloading shod tamam transportation, including and un- resent the oneness of the One. And then the where I stayed, has single rooms (A Kaa’ba for distributors lovers is thisand space/ All who right hand is raised skywards to receive blessloading.

“Other wholesalers ($15 per night off-season). come thebox,” broken, incomplete/ Find ings and the left hand lowered to pass it on to chargehere, ₹35 per saysthe Sambasivarao. wholeness completion.) those there to receive.

All he hasand to do is go to the Best Price outlet Sightseeing Will find underOn weekends and national howith a Ilist ofwholeness? items. “TheIstaff pack and ready Ince Minare museum with Seljuk stand evenin better the strength lidays visitors start arriving early the items 25 minutes and Iofam out of the and Ottoman-era stone and what was pulling me to Konya at Rumi’s shrine, and by midstore in less than an hour.

Moreover, the pricYou don’t need wooden objects; the 13thwhen I lean againsthethe carved morning the Mevlana Muzesi or ing is transparent,” says. money to savour the century Esrefoglu Mosque, a wooden jaali of the women’s museum complex is teeming city’s serenity, the UNESCO heritage site, in Beyshir.

Cost advantage prayer area at Rumi’s mezar. with locals and foreigners. The crisp blue air, or Shelf-to-shelf Owners of small retail outlets shop for their stock at a Best Peace.

I findSharma, it in thethe women’s Muzesi houses the mystic’s mauFor hotelier biggest draw at WalTip Price Modern Wholesale store marvel at the brightprayer A welcome soleum, a café, souvenir shops, mart is area. the availability of change fresh fruits and vegeThe whirling dervishes (sema) eyed tulips from masculine ethos of and a museum with personal betables the at the most reasonable prices in Agra. performance is free but takes mosques of the subcontinent. longings Rumi, “The prices are at leastof15-35 per old centmanulower practices to farmers.

Yet,Saturdays. farmers are free to place only on So plan Mevlevi Women are not denied entry in the Mathnawi, than marketscripts rates. of Moreover, they have dis- sell to other and retailers and Walyourregions stay accordingly musicalpromotional instrumentsoffers. and clothes Turkish mosques. The ordinaricounts and periodic Over- mart does not enter into any exclusive tie-ups by whirling ness of women and children entering and worn all, I save ₹2.5 lakhdervishes. a month. Plus, I don’t have with them. afternoons sitsearch by myofhotel window leaving is what my peace is about. Women, old to Some wasn’t anyovertime good in the world?” roam around AgraI in quality prod- there As it works to get the backend old Turkish ladies, wearing head- right, and young, praying, prostrating, turning ros- and What I come away is nothing new:been the ucts,”watch he says.

Walmart’s storewith expansion rate has scarves andis long skirts,giant arriving plastic ary beads in a public space — a vibrant peace. all-good norIyer all-bad.

It’s that also So, how the retail able with to offer this world slow —is 21neither stores across India. explains filled with sweet The best things in Konya are also free. You bags that I’m inrequires Konya despite pricing advantage?

By offerings investing to in be anddistribmain- true the company aboutlife’s fourinevitable acres to at the shrine.supply chain, says Walmart obstacles. don’t need money to savour the city’s serenity, uted God’s grace. Rumi’s blessings.

I detaining a robust build a 50,000-60,000-sqft store.

“That takes One morning I arrive mauso- cide the crisp blue air, or marvel at the bright-eyed India’s I’m asked what my religion is, my reply Vice-President andearly Headatofthe Corporate time.ifAcquiring real estate is a time-consumreligion of love): under the green dome and tulips, especially the startling shade of velvety leum. be mazhab-e-ishq Affairs,I stand Rajneesh Kumar.

“What works forplead us is would ing activity in terms of(the legal requirements Come, whoeverhe yousays. are Walmart has Rumi. “Don’t forsake your prompurple-black in the Rumi garden, or delight in with the direct-to-store model. us.

All Fulfil the suppliers we and duecome diligence,” Wanderer, worshipper, loverbut of leaving — the Don’t let such us turn a caravan despair. the friendliness of Konya’s laidback citizens. ise. work with, asinto Nestle, Coke of and even leased most of its properties, Iyer says It doesn’t war and violence, and poverty Konya is sedate and settled. There are no long There’s SMEs, supply directly to Walmart outlets.and We company is matter. prepared to buy land also, if an opOurs is not a caravan of despair — everywhere youbusiness turn. There’s so much lines and nobody hustles you into their restau- greed undertake joint planning to portunity arises.

Come even if you have broken your vows a to rant, their uncle’s carpet shop or insists on be- unhappiness. makeMost surepeople that theare fill struggling rate [inventoBattle for times. every store andability happiness.” coming your tour guide like they do in find meaningry’s to meet demand] of thousand Come yet again, Does Rumi’s spirit answerisme?

Istanbul. Konya invites you to slow down and the product good.”

Devangshu Dutta,come, chief come. executive at consulOn my night in Konya, “Open your inner eye.from Don’t feelplansafe tancy savour slowness. The manager at the tourist Apart anyou annual firmlast Third Eyesight, saysa gigantic, Walmart pearl has a the left of not the green dome everyof Ruthink moon office is chatty and gifts me several CDs and and peaceful at this ningmoment? exercise,Dida you Walmart modelrises thatto works, but necessarily mezar.

My hotel window looks outestate, onto would’ve been possible if mi’s booklets on Konya and Rumi’s poetry and your coming here team interacts regularly where.

“It requires a certain type of real Square.

Two men are ablutingand at the with the companies to iron Mevlana which is not easily available in metros big in the middle of the square prepaout issues on a real-time ba- fountain cities.” That perhaps explains why theingiant is foron prayers.

A dog saunters sis. “Our software, Retail ration focusing tier 2 and tier 3 cities.past. Colourflagspenetration strung acrossofthemom-and-pop square flutter shops in the Link, provides suppliers ful“The The souvenir around have with the information they breeze. and traditional storesshops continues to here be higher call from the attractive mosque fills require around replenish- closed. in tier 2The andprayer tier 3 cities.

They are opthe tranquiland night air: asense,” moment reflection ment,” says Kumar. portunities make saysofDutta.

Waland gratitude.

I leave my window as I jot To strengmart aims to add open at least 50 down my thoughts.

I received what I then its supstores to Have its portfolio by 2020. came to receive?

I look outplayer at thecompete moon, I ply chain, ButAscan a new sense the answer.

Walmart is effectively with the likes of Metro The staff pack and On morning I rise earlyhas and go moving to Cash and Carry, which been ready the items in my 25 last downstairs.

Idris gives me a bouquet of flowprocure diaround since 2003, or a local giminutes and I am out ers and pours out fresh tea and we talk.

Anyrectly from ant like Reliance?

“Yes,” believes of the store in less time is teatime Turkey, evident from farmers in all Iyer.in“We have as ourisown memberthan an hour crowded teahouses in every city.

Idriswhat servesa the states ship data and we know me breakfastmember — bread,would butter,want jam, in olives, towhere it operPunjab matoes and cucumbers — but I don’t an ates. So it or UP or Telangana.

Byhave underappetite. I’m standing sad to leave.

Then Zeyneb enters stocks apples these preferences and a whirling dervish pendant as my partfrom Himachal Pradesh, on- with basing the decision on this customer data, we gift. to I can’t tears.needs Was this purely ions from Nashik, sweet lime ing are able meetstop the my specific of buyers,” Meeting Zeyneb and Idris? Or was from Telangana and a range accidental? he says. soul-fixing of vegetables from Punjab and theDutta agrees:barkat “At the(grace) end ofofit,Rumi retailat iswork? a very On business. the way toAnd the tiny airporton and on Uttar Pradesh. local it isKonya dependent how back tothe Istanbul, the segment usual doubts “We source directly from the wellflight you address customer in a But they are no longer tinged with farmers to get fresh produce at resurface. given geography. Just being a large or estabI feel I have been granted the gift ofnoa the right price, so that our mem- cynicism. lished retailer nationally or globally is (aspiration) to spiritual bers can pass on the savings to the lifetime: guaranteethefor success.himmat It ultimately comes mazhab-e-ishq. true practitioner end-customer,” Kumar says. In Ha- become down toafighting each storeofbattle independpur, Lucknow, Telangana and some ar- ently.” And how well-armed Walmart is will begandhi, based Allahabad, the author eas of Maharashtra, Walmart is nighat come apparent in thein next few is years. working with irrigation companies of Alternative Realities: Love in the lives of Krish Iyer, President and rashmiWomen pratap CEO Dervishes of Walmartperform India at the Mevlana Cultural Centre, Konya shutterstock In a whirl of its own and introducing best agricultural Muslim

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Marathoner in a lab-coat A legend in the world of ultra-running, Scott Jurek returns to the races he has previously won to see if he can do better after experimenting with new training methods and diets

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t’s hard to draw parallels between an ultra-marathoner and a scientist. But a seamless transition between the two is perhaps the best way to sum up Scott Jurek’s journey at 41 years. Setting a new record in July for a supported run on the Appalachian Trail is just one of the many successes the American has celebrated through the experiments en route.

Like your average college-going kid, Jurek took to junk food with a vengeance. Pretty

soon, it took a toll on his body and, with dis- next six years. The learning progressed with ease running in the family, Jurek started dab- the distances — on the trails and in the kitchen bling in different foods. He realised that a — and Jurek returned to the same races he had plant-based diet complemented his running, previously won to see if he could better his and could provide the same nutrition as meat. mark. “Each year I would do different things A decision made over two decades ago gave for training and what I ate, in order to learn Jurek a new purpose in life, and handed him a more and see how I could cut down time on career few can dream of. the run,” he explains.

After excelling at ultra-marathons around One of the real tests came in 2005 at the Fellow feeling the world, Jurek focused his attention on the Badwater Ultramarathon, labelled ‘thefrom Students march Appalachian Trail — a 2,260-mile run from world’s toughest foot race’ for itsthe notoriety for UGC headquarters Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Ka- felling the most stubborn competitors.

The to to Shastri Bhavan possible tahdin in Maine, along the US east coast. After 135-mile course runs through theprotest Deaththe Valley changes to the non46 days, eight hours and seven minutes, run- in California, where temperatures are known NET fellowships shanker Quite inning on average 50 miles a day, Jurek finally to hover around 50oC in mid-July. ; students chakravarty weeks rested after bettering the previous mark by credibly, he won the race just a few lament theafter end of their sole aid during his triumph at the Western States Endurance just three hours. years of gruelling wasn’t “It was down to the wire. The last 8km was Run. And if setting a course record research sandeep saxena the only time I knew I was going to make it,” enough, Jurek came back the next year and Jurek says with a smile, as he dunks his idli in- won again.

Further success at prestigious races estabto chutney at breakfast, during a promotional lished Jurek as the man to chase — whether it tour in Mumbai.

He is a legend in the world of ultra-running. was the Spartathlon, a 153-mile run from AthGrowing up in Duluth, Minnesota, life wasn’t ens to Sparta in Greece, which he won thrice; or adventures such as a race easy as responsibilities fell on alongside members of the Tarahis young shoulders after his humara tribe in Mexico, who mother was detected with are known to be the greatest multiple sclerosis. Running In Minnesota, there natural runners in the world. became a release of sorts; aren’t many vegetarian After all the competitive glowhether it was around the restaurants, so I did a lot house, tending to his younger of cooking on my own. It ry, Jurek decided to set his sights on personal desires. siblings, or through trails in was also fascinating — I omy Abraham, in her thirties, had returnalways wanted to douniversities,” one of alising.

Ondoubled Octoberas7,his the University Grants the woods that to all state was my own guineahanced pig and“Iextended ed to academics after a four-year break. the anational in thea PhD Commission (UGC) resolved to discontinue backyard. non-NETscenic fellowtrails pursuing and learnt a lotsays Kumar, She quit higher education to work, so that “Running — tracks that run across the the non-NET fellowship, was pure joy for even though it had in AfricanUS Studies. she and her researcher-husband could andcircular the Appalachian earlier constituted an expert committee to me, but I never thought much Thoughcountry, the MHRD stated that the live together. Abraham came back for an mountainswould were consider a place I the hadpossiits enhancement. of it. Iconsider simply ran,” he reminis- Students already review committee MPhil from Hyderabad Central University afnever explored.

So of it “NET really the fellowship will continue to do so, it bility of increasing ces. Asgetting a student of health scithe number fellowter her husband found a job. She doggedly seemed like which a new adventure,” he says.

The UGC’s led to at an20 uproar ences,declared.

Jurek attempted hisdecision first 50-miler ships, are merit-based” and extending prepared for six months to crack the enJenny of as the his primary crew from turn the student community, andafor but didn’t professional until after fewmany, With thewife benefits fellowship to memmore state trance and interview. As a non-NET (Naber, Jurek took off on trail inare May this year, the scheme goesthe their sole aid years.along As hewith continued to realise limits of duruniversities, thethe students anxious about a tional Eligibility Test) fellow, she received called—itthe offproposed a week into the runand af- othing years of gruelling research. his physical abilities with each race, food took and almost third point economic a monthly stipend of ₹5,000 for a year up to mostThe ter a hurting knee andfellowship. a quad tear while destudents embarked what of his time off the trails,on and is anhas in- since er criteria for the complete her degree. Half the money was the Great Smoky Mountains thebook Occupy UGC protest, and Gate 3 scending of tegralbecome part of his titled Eat and Run. e are not guinea pigs, stop the experispent on the mess bill, and the rest barely “It the National Park in Tennessee. in Delhi has beento turned tookITO memetro a yearstation and a half to transition ments,” saysfocus, a placard met research needs — buying books thata fully never the but afterpropped reinto a protest sorts.

The agita- The record was vegan diet. headquarters In Minnesota,of there aren’t against ITOwithin metro station wall.

“Education were not in the library, stacks that hadmany that itthe was reach, he took to tion, shy of arestaurants, month now,sohas seen vegetarian I did a lotstudents of alising hasjust value, now itof has a price too,”the reads to be photocopied, and sourcing sta-cooking sleeping a couple hours during lastanothtaking facing police violence onout mymarches, own. It was also fascinating — on er graffiti.

Late on a nippy evening in October, tionery not available in the campus. “II was to seal it in style. occasion, has pig alsoand prompted my ownand guinea learnt athe lot governin few days when traffic atfeeling one ofgetting the Capital’s took four semesters to complete thethe ment “It was just an unbelievable to form a five-member reprocess,” he says. busiest is belligercourse. Though the course is for a year, Dairy Quiteintersections honestly, I never viewproducts committee toway address made for oilsthe from co- to the finish line.

100-odd students most students take an extension toconut, actually get the record.sit Youin the scope of non-NET fellowships. olives and avocadoes, and the bud- thought I would ent, open been spacethrough, outside and theit’s station submit the dissertation. The fellow-ding Last of all that you’ve students JNU, and Wthink chefweek, dished out from tempehe want it and resolve to fight on for their ship is only for a year, after which stu-tofu-based very emotional to realise that it all culminates Delhi University (DU), Jamia Millia as re-extended traditional Asian cuisines to all right to education. They burn the dents have to find other sources ofplacement onvarsities this one day,” he says.

Islamiafor andthe Ambedkar wild fishUniversity and burgers hestate effigy of West Bengaland, chiefto-minisfunding,” says Abraham. She once The day was also Jenny’s birthday marched to “Ithe of Hurelished. eatMinistry such a wide range of ter friends, Mamata they Banerjee and condipped into her savings. ascended manthat’s Resource foods, what I loveDevelopment about my diet,” he gether with a few theinattack on protesting In August this year, she went says, to take the landscape (MHRD), in he what hasout been their para- Mount Katahdindemn even as wipes another students ineasy Kolkata. through another exacting se- ntha, breathe for the first biggest of for strength far. to go around them. And whileshow looking a spicy so combo Vrashali Sruthi, student from lection process to enrol for awith time in over a month andaa graduate half.

The minister met the protestors on the it. HRD “There are so many tastes and texDU,isisstill currently by the fellowship PhD in Delhi’s Jawaharlal Nehru tures soakingunaffected in his last run, while alstreet and assured themIndia, that the fellowship Jurek in food from Japan, Thailand issue, but hasnext been a regular at the protests.

University (JNU). Again, as a and so scouting for his target. would stay and the review East Africa.

Essentially, youcommittee need to eatwould to theI can’t campuses in the morning non-NET fellow, she is entitled to enough “I’ll“We stopgowhen run anymore.

Until and look into its scope and criteria. calories based onselection the distance you support, here the eve₹8,000 a month for four years. “I planThe then, mobilise it’s whatever getsand me gather excited,” hein says protesting however are not on running, so students it just varies with the says.life Subhashini, 26-year-old applied for the fellowship a month circumstances.” with aning,” smile.she Jurek’s is one raceathat has no law buying it. They worry about the fallout if the at DU, is protesting too. “If the fellowago and got the allotment circular His line in sight. review committee recommends discontinuafirst major win came in 1999 at the 100- finishstudent two weeks ago,” she says. of theStates fellowship.

“We had three demands ship goes, people like me who are contemplatmilertion Western Endurance Run in Calishail ing desai is a Mumbai-based writerto be affected,” she research, are going For many like Abraham, the conwe he started,” says forniawhen — a race went on toKanhaiya dominateKumar, for thepresifusion around non-NET fellowship dent, JNU Students Union. “We want the non- says. With a postgraduate degree in hand, reand its continuity has been demor- NET fellowships to stay. We also want it en- search is an option for her. “Students who go

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As researchers fight to keep non-NET fellowships status quo, the snags in higher education come to the fore

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Dream run After successes at ultramarathons around the world, 41-yearold Scott Jurek has set his sights on crosscountry scenic trails in the US shail desai

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Rest in peace

Lack lustre

Is that the tomb of Nefertiti?

Beauty is only plumage deep

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ers is the bust that launched a thousand expeditions to Egyptian tombs. The still unfound tomb of Nefertiti, the ancient Egyptian queen, has sent many archaeologists into a tizzy.

Though caution is still the byword, a team of archaeologists may actually be close to finding her final resting place. Infrared scans done on Tutankhamun’s tomb have shown temperature variations, and archaeologists believe there is a hidden chamber within the tomb which could be Nefertiti’s. If that be so, the centuries-old Nefertiti mystery could finally get some rest.

Feel the pulse Rising prices force Mumbai restaurant to fine anyone who wastes sambar

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hen was the last time you saw a peacock and went ‘ewww’? Usually, one gasps at the sight of their colourful plumage, and not recoil in shock and horror. But in the US, zoos are increasingly finding fault with the appearance of the deep blue bird. As they slowly lose their shimmer and sparkle in the extreme climes of America, zoo keepers are getting rid of their musters of peacocks. If that wasn’t mortifying enough, the birds have also become the favourite target of the grandly-named great-horned owls. While nobody knows how many birds have lost their homes in the great peacock purge, this is just an ostentation gone wrong.

into research are making a huge decision against joining the workforce immediately,” she says. Many, well into their twenties and early-thirties, say they cannot take money from their family. “Cost of living, research work, field trips — nothing would be left of the ₹5,000 an MPhil non-NET fellow gets,” she adds. Half of Pankhuri Zaheer’s MPhil nonNET fellowship goes towards her mess bill at JNU. “I am also learning dance and the money for it comes from the translation work I undertake for international students,” she says. The students want the non-NET fellowship increased to ₹8,000 for MPhil scholarship and ₹12,000 for PhD students. “What we are getting is lower than what an unskilled labourer gets,” says Zaheer.

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o waste, no fine — a Mumbai restaurant has made this a policy to stop its customers from wasting food. Udipi Idli House, a popular joint in Matunga East, may still forgive you for not finishing the dosa or the vadai. What it won’t tolerate is the waste of sambar and rasam, for which you have to pay an extra ₹13. This Life moral pol- a Metro outside Students have icing is courtesy of the rising prices of dals embarked on an across the country. Both the sambar and Occupy UGC protest, the rasam need toor dal and it pinches the and Gate 3 of the ITO restaurant when a customer ignores ti- in Delhi metrothe station ny bowls that come with almost every item has been turned into a protest headquarters on the menu. of sorts rv moorthy

should be,” says Yogendra Yadav, former UGC ing all my taxes — service tax, VAT, everything. member and a supporter of Occupy UGC. Where is the money going?” asks John.

Of the nearly one lakh students who enrol Occupy UGC may be about the non-NET, but for research every year, less than five per cent Yadav says it invokes an angst that runs much qualifies for the full research fellowship — deeper — the unequal opportunities in higher NET-JRF. The non-NET, a subsistence fellow- education. “An elementary analysis of the figship, is currently awarded to MPhil and PhD ures from 2011 shows there are around 4,000 students in 46 central universities and select fellowship slots in postdoctoral research, state universities.he That still leaves Nordics havea large pool which covers 75-80 per cent of researchers. of researchers with no state support.

The un- When it comes to MPhil and PhD scholars, felalways been certainty over the non-NET and the lowships cover one-fourth of them. Among ahead of thefellowship curve. likely introduction of economic But this time they criteria are the 3.3 million postgraduate students, UGC feladding to their have woes. Future may lowships reach 0.01 per cent. For the 26 miltruly researchers outbe largely dependent family support or an lion undergraduates, there is nothing. All done on themselves educational loan. may not by “You creating na-get the stu- benefits of higher education are thus stacked dents who are tionalist most keen,”emojis. points out Mary E at one end of the spectrum,” says Yadav.

John, professor and senior fellow The system effectively pushes out the needy Wired reported thatat the Centre for Women’s Development Studin the first five years of higher these are “governhe non-NET fellowship was introduced by ies, New Delhi.

“Most researchers education, and this he calls edument-approved emoji the UPA I government in 2006. “It was felt arestickers”. under extreme pressure our to cation’s mortality rate. “When The list includes that the number of doctoral students in the earn.

Men from modest there are no ways to survive, beloved Nokia, a headbanger withbackarms The system country was substantially lower than whatraised it grounds arecovering fighting face, off pressure and bangs and the effectively pushes out they drop out,” says Yadav. Pubto support families financially lic universities India of are promidnight sun. But our most favourite of the needy in the disgusting which all in parents first habit are—often financialtheir aid than themand all iswomen a butt researchers naked couple comguilty ofless is smelling five years oftoddlers higher are viding the pressure get in capiplete warding with blueoff eyes and beatific to smiles education baby’s bottoms the to private check ifuniversities he/she has married. fellowship talist countries, he says.

— basking in theThe steam of sauna. gives pooped in diaper or merely farted. Well, in The them breathing space. These recontinues the fetish Australia a groupbudget of intrepid scientists de- for searchers are taken on board after elite voluntarily institutionsstudy likethe the IITs cided that they would rigorous eligibility and selection and central universities. farts of kangaroos. Why, you ask? Because“Nineprocess,” says John. Wondering why a commit- thety-five per went cent of thekangaroo students are the state rumour that fartinprotee constituted to enhance the fellowship has duced universities,” he adds. less methane, resulting in less greentaken a U-turn, she fears for the future of re- house The students, are keeping gases, unlike, meanwhile, say, our gau maata.

The Ocsearch programmes. cupy UGC alive.

The review committee secret was thought to lie in the bacteria in is ex She points out that over the years, research Roo’s pected report December and gut. to Butsubmit despiteitsall goodin intentions, programmes have evolved from flexible sys- andthe agitating students cannot it to the overlooking the craziness of but the link study, tems to one that holds researchers and guides it has upcoming WTO-GATS meeting in Nairobi, been found that kangaroo fart ain’t accountable, leaving little scope for misuse. thatwhere opening up of the education sector is special.

“Even for a PhD, we have entrance examin- likely to be decided upon. “We are going to deations and minimum course-work; research centralise our protest. Representatives will has to be finished in the stipulated time, be- visit campuses in the country and educate yond which they do not receive the stipend,” them on the movement,” says Kumar. Agitashe says. The academic remembers that tions are on in Hyderabad and Kolkata too. things had looked up for higher education a Of late, many have advised Abraham to seek few years ago. The 11th Five Year Plan had in- financial support from her husband, if need creased by nine-fold the outlay for higher edu- be. She finds such suggestions offensive. Abracation. “Slew of expansion was in place as it ham has had friends whose research hinged was recognised that the state has to play a big- on the fellowship, friends who skipped meals ger role in higher education, that the share of during mess holidays as they couldn’t afford GDP going into higher education was very to eat out. “I have gone through the strict scruless,” says John. That outlay has dropped from tiny of the university to get admission, and ₹57,610 crore (about 9.5 per cent) in 2013-14 to now it’s the government’s responsibility to ₹16,122 crore at present (about 2.8 per cent). fund me so that I can contribute to and push The total allocation to the MHRD dropped by the boundaries of my discipline.” around 24 per cent in Budget 2015-16, against Studied anger An angst that runs deeper — the unequal opportunities in higher education kamal narang the peak allocation made in 2012-13. “I am pay- p anima

Naked Couple = National Pride

Finland has a way with emotions

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in-faq by joy bhattacharjya

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n keeping with the cover story, this week we look at the world of crusaders.

here,there & elsewhere

Championing a cause Many superheroes and heroines use capes, but which superhero is also known as the ‘Caped Crusader’?

Chivalric folklore has nine figures who are considered the epitome of knightly virtues and known as ‘The Nine Worthies.’ They are divided into the ‘Three Pagan Knights’ (Hector, Alexander and Julius Caesar), the ‘Three Jewish Knights’ (Joshua, David and Judas Maccabeus) and the ‘Three Christian Knights’, of whom King Arthur and Charlemagne are the first two. Which famous warrior and crusader is regarded the third ‘Christian Knight?’

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The original children’s crusade was supposed to be a disastrous attempt made in 1212 by a band of children to march to Jerusalem and convert Muslims. Most accounts of it are now regarded a myth. But in 1963, who led a movement that successfully recruited children for demonstrations in what is known as the modern ‘Children’s Crusade’ in the state of Alabama?

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In the 1820s, to which Governor of Bengal did Raja Ram Mohan Roy appeal to end the practice of sati?

To what was Emily Davison trying to get attention when she died under the King’s horse Anmer at the Epsom Derby in 1913?

Jody Williams is the founding coordinator of a group that won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1997, and had the late Lady Diana among its supporters. In which area does the group work?

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On October 31, 1517, who posted 95 theses on the doors of the All Saints’ Church in Wittenberg, regarded as the start of the Protestant Reformations?

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In 19th-century England, in which specific area did Quaker Elizabeth Fry campaign for widespread reform, and succeed. She now appears on the Bank of England five pound note.

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Which well-known crusader, depicted in a 2000 Hollywood film, wrote the bestseller Take It From Me: Life’s a Struggle But You Can Win in 2012?

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According to her son, she was greeted by the American President Abraham Lincoln in 1862 with the line “So you are the little woman who wrote the book that started this great war?”

Who was she?

Answers 1. Batman 2. Godfrey of Bouillon. In 1099, he became the first ruler of the kingdom of Jerusalem 3. Martin Luther King Jr. After his arrest, other members of the Southern Christian Leadership Conference, especially James Bevel, took the lead in getting more children involved 4. William Bentinck. The Bengal Presidency passed the anti-sati law in 1829, followed by the Madras and Bombay Presidencies in 1830 5. Voting rights for women. Women in the UK got the vote in 1928 6. Eradication of anti-personnel mines. The Ottawa Treaty brought a ban on these mines 7. Martin Luther. He was excommunicated by the Pope four years later 8. Prisons. She was moved after a visit to the notorious Newgate prison 9. Erin Brockovich. The film with the same name records her crusade against the Pacific Gas and Electric Company 10. Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, the book that did a lot to spread awareness about slavery

joy bhattacharjya is a quizmaster and Project Director, FIFA U-17 World Cup t@joybhattacharj

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Transit worlds hen it’s time to leave Vermont, Birk opts to stay on longer. So W Bins and I leave the sky-blue hearse behind and take the bus. But there are no stops anywhere near Grace and Peter’s farm. The only option is to drive to Montpelier, the state capital, one hour away.

We make an expedition out of it.

Three children and five adults pile into the two cars. We have lunch at a pizza parlour called “Positive Pi,” named after the mathematical symbol which is, of course, pronounced as ‘Pie.’ While we’re there Jeremy overhears a conversation nearby. He turns to ask his mother, “Mom? What’s ‘Disney World’?” I assume he’s joking and open my mouth to say that I’ve been there and had a wonderful time. But Grace says, dismissively, “Oh, it’s this really stupid place in Florida where people go to have fun. But there’s nothing worth seeing or doing there.” I shut my mouth at once and avoid looking at Bins. He knows my secret.

I am left to fret about the disturbing complexity of the world: who would have thought that a boy born and brought up in the US would not have heard of Disney World? Whereas I, a foreigner, had known about all things Disney from the time I could say ‘Mickey Mouse’. Grace and Peter’s Earth-conscious philosophy makes it

cornerstone

impossible for them to approve of any part of the ‘Disney experience’. I can absolutely understand their need to keep their children far from the wasteful, plasticised lifestyle represented by theme-parks. Yet I couldn’t deny the pleasure I’d had from going there. However guilty I felt to acknowledge it, I wasn’t ready to give it up.

At the appointed hour we’re dropped off at a bus-stop that’s inside a local sandwich shop that doubles as a ticket counter for the Greyhound bus company. There aren’t enough passengers to justify maintaining a proper stop. By the time Bins and I

board the bus, dark grey clouds have clogged the sky. The temperature has plummeted. Our exposed ears go numb the moment we leave the warmth of the shop. We huddle together in our seats till we reach the transit point at White River Junction.

The terminal building is big and bustling but our next bus reports a mechanical failure. We’re part of a group of 18 passengers who are told to wait ... and wait ... and WAIT. Then our numbers swell as fresh passengers arrive, for the next bus in the schedule.

Tempers fray. We’re told to form separate lines. There’s still no sign of our bus. Children are wailing. Bins is beginning to mutter about “Even in India ...” I want to argue: no!

Greyhound normally does a great job!

But it’s late, it’s cold and I’m tired.

Finally two buses arrive, huffing and panting. Our driver steps forward to claim us: a petite black woman dressed like a rock star, wearing flashy black leather and long strings of sparkling beads. “Who’s goin’ to Boston?” she calls out. “Follow me!”

Her outsize personality is like a jolt of electricity. We jump aboard her bus, happy and revived once more. manjula padmanabhan, author and artist, writes of her life in the fictional town of Elsewhere, US, in this weekly column