Imotorhome emagazine route 66 special 14 july 2013

iMotorhome

14 2013

magazine

SPECIAL: July

because getting there is half the fun...

Get your

kicks on

Travel Guides!

The best books for planning your Route 66 adventure‌

How Much?

What did we spend? Find out here!

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Word and images by Mr & Mrs iMotorhome

2

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

3

Route 66 starts in Chicago on the foreshore of Lake Michigan, not far from here. We did a Bobby’s Bike Tour of Chicago: an excellent way to get to know Chicago up close and personal.

’d hazard a guess that no road is more famous than route 66. Immortalised in song, written about endlessly, featured in motion pictures and the subject of its own TV show, Route 66 – also known as the Will Rogers Highway, the Main Street of America and the Mother Road – is still one of the world’s greatest journeys. That’s despite it not having officially existed for nearly 30 years.

I

Like so many things in life, Route 66 was never as straightforward in reality as it is recorded in history. Established in 1926 as part of the original US Highway System it ran, as

the song says, “From Chicago to LA, more than 2000 miles all the way.”

From Chicago, on the shores of Lake Michigan, Route 66 headed south west across Illinois, Missouri, Kansas and into Oklahoma. At Oklahoma City it turned west and cut across the Texas Panhandle, New Mexico and into Arizona, before zigzagging into California and winding its way to the Pacific Ocean at Santa Monica (Los Angeles).

In its lifetime Route 66 had a couple of main phases during which significant sections of new road and/or realignments of existing road took place.

Most notably these were 1926-32 and 1936-47, and from what I can understand by the 1950s what had started out as a meandering two-lane road had become a modern four-lane highway along its full length.

At its peak Route 66 stretched 2451 miles (3945 km), but almost as soon as it was completed the Mother Road began to be superseded by the US interstate Highway System, or Interstates as they’re known. Many newer four-lane sections were incorporated into the new Interstates and the last section of Route 66 closed in June

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 ©

Google Maps 2013

4

Route 66 cuts an arc across America and takes in a wide variety of terrain, from flat black-soil farmlands in the East to the desert high plains of the West. Map shows our night stops (B-M) and why you need at least two weeks to do the trip justice.

1985, at which point and it officially ceased to exist.

Route 66 served as a lifeline as well as a highway, supporting countless communities along its length that serviced the needs of weary travellers. It was also vital to the expansion of California, providing a safe route from the populous East to the fast-growing West, and played a major part in the US war effort in the 1940s.

Interestingly, it was President Eisenhower’s appreciation of the German Autobahn system and its implications for national security that brought the Interstates into existence.

The Interstate bypassed most communities, as Interstates do across most of America, providing fast point-to-point travel but no on-road services.

Smaller towns disappeared almost overnight and populations were redistributed, while Route 66 vanished from maps, if not people’s hearts and minds.

In recent years people’s fascination with Route 66 has been increasing; fuelled as much by American’s nostalgia for a simpler time as international tourists looking to recreate the ultimate – if mythical – American road trip.

What’s left of Route 66 isn’t overly easy to follow, but most of the States it passes through – Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California – are making efforts of varying degrees to signpost what’s left as Historic Route 66 and make it accessible and interesting to travellers. In reality, today’s Route 66 journey is about finding the many old sections of road and exploring the many towns – thriving or abandoned – plus tracking down the famous landmarks, faded neon motel signs (Neons in ‘66 speak) and trying to capture the spirit of what must have been a monumental journey for

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

5

Route 66 is as much a state of mind these days as it is a journey and it’s a fascinating one at that. so many as they sought better times and new lives.

Mrs iMotorhome kept a daily diary of our travels and here’s her unique and entertaining Route 66 is as much a state account of how we got our of mind these days as is it a kicks (with a little bit of input journey and it’s a fascinating from me because I just can’t one at that. We had two weeks help myself). Enjoy! and it was scarcely enough to scratch the surface. You Note: Route 66 starts in could spend months and some Chicago, which we visited people spend their lives now for a day on the way to as virtual Route 66 groupies. collect our motorhome as it

Chicago is all about food, like this amazing Polish hotdog.

was the closest major airline hub. Time didn’t allow us to backtrack and start our drive from there, but we did see the lakeside park where Route 66 supposedly starts. Chicago is a fascinating city and one that rivals New York in history, architecture and character. A few days spent exploring it are highly recommended.

A Cupcake ATM? Where else but America?

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 ear Diary, after a fantastic day in Chicago yesterday we flew first thing this morning to Fort Wayne, Indiana, arriving at 08:35 and then took a taxi to the Fleetwood RV factory in Decatur to collect our motorhome. Mr iM left his

D

Day 1

phone in the taxi (!) but we managed to get it back – for an extra $35 (!!!). Vehicle orientation done and fees paid, we departed at 11am and headed straight to Walmart for provisions.

Packed and ready to go at the Fleetwood RV factory in Decatur, Indiana.

There were rows of new vehicles awaiting delivery, like these ‘small’ 25 footers.

©

Google Maps 2013

6

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Pre-departure briefing: Our fellow travellers were from Denmark, Sweden and England.

Early afternoon (there was so much to buy!) we headed due west, all the way across Indiana and popped into Illinois at Danville. Flat farmland as far as you can see. Stopped along the way to fill the water tanks as the weather had been too cold for them to do that before we left. A bit nervous but we did okay! We overnighted in a sort of truck parking area just by a freeway exit coming in to Danville. Mr iM sure knows how to show a girl a good time!

First day and first water tank fill. US truck stops often have separate RV lanes like these.

7

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

8

Our first Route 66 icon. The book called it the Cozy Dog Inn but the sign read differently.

Day 2 ear Diary, still cold, overcast – and flat.

Danville to Springfield via the Interstate this morning. Springfield is the capital of Illinois and the resting place of Abraham Lincoln (not Bart Simpson). Here we joined Route 66 at the Cozy Dog Inn, birth place of the corn dog (like a Pluto Pup but with a corn batter). More provisioning at Walmart: coffee plunger, wine glasses and slippers.

Now we’re cruising! Granite city overnight in our first Walmart carpark and our last night in Illinois. Glad we saw the start of the Mother Road in Chicago two days ago.

D

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Inside the Cosy Dog Inn: nothing to get excited about!

Š

Google Maps 2013

Cosy dogs were a once-in-a-lifetime treat.

Thankfully...

9

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Shopping, campsite and after hours entertainment. Walmart has it all!

Day 3 ear Diary, a beautiful day and suddenly very warm!

Crossed into Missouri and its best known city, St Louis, via the McKinley Bridge over the mighty Mississippi.

Headed straight to the Gateway Arch. Awesome!

Watched the movie and took the tiny capsule train that runs up inside the arch to the viewing platform about 600 ft up. Really awesome!

Remembered that 13 years ago we couldn't even see the top of the arch for fog.

D

From 600 ft up in the Gateway Arch: The mighty Mississippi and downtown St Louis.

10

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

St Louis Gateway Arch was remarkable, as was the weather.

After lunch we headed out through the Ozarks. Country changing to hilly and green and still much warmer weather.

Overnighted at Meramec Caverns, which are famous for Jesse James using them as his hideout. Nice digs for a bad arse! Watched over very

11

The Arch basement has excellent displays on its history and construction. closely all night by Ranger Bill.

Not sure he trusted us Aussies (no rego plates on the Queen Mary!) and we were the only people in camp. Maybe he though we were on the run?

Paid $18 for an unpowered riverside site, but very stark as all the trees are still bare.

Š

The Gateway Arch is a monument to those who opened up the West and for whom, St Louis was the gateway and last point of civilisation.

Cheers!

A glass of red at Meramec Caverns.

Google Maps 2013

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

12

American glitz: This cabin mockup had nothing to do with Jesse James but sure looked good.

Day 4 ear Diary, his morning we took the Meramec Caverns’ tour. Big Blake took us for a 90 minute walk (and for Blake, wheezing) tour and it was great. Good to be walking for a change. First dump of the black water tank at the campground before we left – another thing we were a bit anxious about but crossed off the list okay!

D

©

Google Maps 2013

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Danny’s Gas Hole? Don’t ask. It’s right beside a 12.8 m tall rocking chair. Of course...

Crossed the rest of Missouri and overnighted in Joplin, near the State Line with Kansas, at the Walmart carpark with three other RVs. Wind picking up and possible tornados tomorrow. Guess Kansas is the right place for them. Will be watching for a young girl in red shoes.

Great themed roadside rest area.

Main cave, Meramec Caverns.

13

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 ©

14

Google Maps 2013

Pop’s diner, Arcadia, is a fantastic glass structure dedicated to pop (think soft drinks).

Nearing extinction: The old Blue Whale water park is now just a roadside picnic area and curiosity.

Day 5

ear Diary, on the road early to try to out run bad weather coming our way.

Tornados predicted so want to get to Oklahoma City in daylight. Started our day with a 20 mile drive through the bottom right hand corner of

D

Kansas, the Sunflower State.

It’s the only Route 66 State that was completely bypassed by the Interstate that replaced Route 66 between Missouri and Oklahoma.

Followed the road through

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 Galena (sad) and Riverton to cheerier Baxter springs. Coffee at the Angels on the Route coffee shop in Baxter Springs and bought some souvenirs.

Very friendly people, like all of America so far. Further on tried for coffee at the Nation’s largest Mc Donald's, which actually spans the I-44 Interstate, but no McCafe so sucked some herbs (used free wifi!) and moved on.

pole and a big blue whale!

Cruised thru Tulsa but no time to see much there this time.

Took toll road I-44 for a bit of speed and then back on Route 66 at Chandler. Stoped briefly at Seaba Station Motorcycle Museum (closed) and the 1898 Round Barn at Arcadia, then Pops nostalgia diner for dinner: It has a giant 66 ft (Route 66 - get it?) soda pop bottle that lights up at night!

Following the old Route is not as easy as it sounds. Lots of small pieces sort of joined up.

Sometimes two options from the different eras of 1926-32 and 1936-47. Often some of the preserved shop fronts and motels with their neon signs are not directly on the route, too. Followed Route 66 from Joplin Missouri thru Kansas and all the way to Tulsa today.

Saw the World’s largest Totem

Then on to Oklahoma City for overnight in downtown Walmart carpark. Bad weather arrived with us and the temp dropped from 25C to 0C in 2 hours! Tornados predicted tonight, heavy rain and lightning all around. Scary but fingers crossed. Can’t do much else. No sign of Dorothy.

Arcadia’s historic Round Barn is just that. And very red...

Pop’s 66 ft tall pop bottle lights up at night.

15

Touring USA Special: Test: Get Fleetwood your Kicks RV Tioga on Route Montara 66 31M

16

Like many attractions the World’s Largest Totem Pole is off old Route 66 and rather hard to find (believe it or not). Made from concrete and hand painted by the late Ed Galloway it dates from 1948 and was built with the blessing of local Native Americans.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Day 6

ear Diary, oh my goodness! Heavy rain all night with thunderstorms.

All safe, sound and warm in the carpark, thankfully, but felt so sorry for a guy who spent the night nearby in the cab of his tiny old ute, wrapped in a sleeping bag. It got down to

D

-1C so heating ran on and off all night, but Ute Man must have frozen, although we heard him run the engine a few times.

Turns out it was an ice storm and we woke to freezing rain and very cold winds. Back to winter clothes!

Ice everywhere in the aftermath of an overnight ice storm.

Braum’s Milk Bottle is an old Route 66 icon in Oklahoma City.

17

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

18

The Route 66 Museum in Clinton, Oklahoma, is a must-see attraction that needs a couple of hours to do it justice.

Leaving Oklahoma City, weather not fab for sight seeing so did quick drive-by for photos of the Gold Dome, a landmark 1958 geodetic design, and the big Braum milk bottle that sits on top of what is now a Vietnamese Bakery. Both are Route 66 icons. Headed to the town of Hydro, but first a quick stop at the old Chisholm Trail watering hole (John Wayne played John Chisholm, Texas’ most famous cattleman). Everything in the

park covered in ice crystals.

Very pretty. So it is true: Oklahoma City looks mighty pretty!

Rain and all sorts of weather and the front of the Queen is covered in ice. Snow and slush on the highway plus very strong winds making driving difficult. Next planned stop on Route 66 is Lucille's Filling Station in Hydro, for lunch.

Need to make a mile today and finish in Amarillo, weather permitting.

Found Lucille Hamon’s lovely old filling station along the way, one of just a few left that had the living area upstairs, part of which formed a porch over the gas pumps. All closed down but very historic. Tried to get into Lucille’s Station Diner in Weatherford, inspired by the old filling station, but the snow brought everybody out and the wait was ridiculous. Packet of rice chips kept us going to Jigg’s Smokehouse in Elk, but it was closed due to a power

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

19

Some of the Route 66 Museum’s many attractions.

Lucille Hamon’s historic gas station. ©

Google Maps 2013

outage caused by the mega ice storm. More rice crisps until a wrap at Subway – finally!

After lunch visited the Route 66 Museum in Clayton, which was fascinating and very well done. Temp got to 5 degrees and there was ice dropping off everything, including the power lines. Spectacular! The best part of our Route 66 drive so far: Oklahoma, from Elk City to Shamrock, Texas.

20-30 miles. Once in Texas

decided to call ourselves Cowboy Rick and The Flying K. Seems everybody from around here has a big name!

Overnight in one of Amarillo’s many Walmarts and arrived to a meet-and-greet service by the security guy who promised to patrol through the night and keep us safe.

Very reassuring! Getting the hang of this travel stuff now.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

20 ©

Everything’s big in Texas. No Bull...

Day 7 Dear Diary, planned a rest day today and to do ‘stuff’ in Amarillo. Started with a BIG brekky at the Big Texan Steakhouse, home of the 72 oz (2 kg) steak. Eat it and its sides in under an hour and you get it free. The record is 8.52 mins! Burp.

Quick look around the Saddle and Tack Warehouse and then to Cavender Boot City – an overwhelming number of boots! On next to the famous Cadillac Ranch by the freeway west of town, which you could easily miss. It’s actually just 10 old Cadillacs buried nose down in a field at a 45 degree angle and graffiti art is welcome/expected from visitors. They call it modern art. Bright and sunny today and Cowboy Rick writing for the arvo. Time for me to hom and read up about the state of New Mexico. Overnight Walmart again, but a different one on the West side of town. Just ‘cause we could.

Only kidding, it’s for a quick getaway tomorrow :)

Bear? What bear?

Post breakfast stroll through the Big Texan’s amusement arcade.

Google Maps 2013

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

21

So many boots, so little luggage space...

Set back from the Interstate, Cadillac Ranch is actually easy to miss. Don’t!

Cars are thick with paint from years of graffiti.

Graffiti is expected from visitors.

Spray it again Sam...

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

22

Day 8 ear Diary, up early to make a mile to Albuquerque after first visiting Jack Sisemore's RV Museum. Wow what a museum and what an amazing man! Met and chatted to Jack and his younger business partner Trent (a friend of his son, who was/is the Amarillo Mayor). Jack was the first Winnebago dealer in Texas and has been in the business for about 40 years. Cowboy Rick went crazy with the camera. Yeha!

D

Moving on, found a very busy Starbucks and waited 20 mins for coffee. Worth the wait because overall, coffee in America is still crap. Almost all is flavoured and weak as bats

A big museum needs a big sign. Especially in Texas...

New Mexico was a real surprise and became perhaps our favourite State.

A horse-friendly RV park for $15 a night! Welcome to Tucumcari, New Mexico.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

23

We got our kicks and our lunch at Kix on 66 in Tucumcari, an original roadside diner that’s still going strong.

p... Sorry to any Americans reading this, but the rest of the world stopped making brewed coffee 20 years ago. Get with the program!

Then off and running to New Mexico and Tucumcari, for lunch at the Blue Swallow Motel. Actually lunched at the iconic (and open) Kix on 66 diner. Way cool! Heaps of old ‘66 stuff there and very reasonable. Amazing blue skies for backdrops to our photos. Lots of people and businesses embracing the Route 66 theme and lots of great old Neons, rundown/ abandoned motels and other memorabilia. Love this place!

At the Blue Swallow motel you have your own garage

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 next to your room! Looks like something out of Cars the movie. Must watch that again.

On to Albuquerque and very pretty driving. Interesting going thru Sania Ranges, part of the Continental Divide. Climbed progressively through 2100 metres.

Walmart carpark again but the first one with signs advising us of our right to stay 24 hours.

Dinner and our daily run thru Walmart. First time we didn't purchase anything. There goes the US economy, so Cowboy Rick says...

Things aren’t so good at the Ranch House Cafe these days.

Enough said...

Old ‘Neons’ like this dot Route 66. The original Color TV sign on the side is especially rare and sought after, apparently.

24

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Every room at the restored blue Swallow Motel also has its own garage!

25

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Colourful roadside market, Albuquerque.

Day 9 ear Diary, up early and time on our side again as we picked up an hour

D

26

Rio Grande less grand than expected.

yesterday crossing into another time zone. Headed to Old Downtown Albuquerque on the banks of the Rio Grande but unable to park as a fun-run for MS was in progress. Shame, looked very pretty.

Next stop was to see some petroglyphs and climb to the top of an ancient volcanic

mesa. Stunningly clear day and perfect temp at about 22 degrees C. Followed this with a visit to Colonardo National Monument to see the remains of a 700 year old Pueblo on the side of the Rio Grande.

Great history but the Rio doesn’t look so Grande.

Ancient petroglyph looked more like graffiti! Š

Google Maps 2013

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

It’s a long walk and a rough, sharp climb to the top of the mesa at the Petroglyph National Monument.

The Queen Mary is just visible at the end of the road in the background.

27

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

28

Loved Albuquerque and want to come back for a long stay, but galloped on to Gallup for our next overnight. Fuelled up and dumped the grey/black tanks at a Flying J Travel Plaza (huge gas station/truck stop) at the edge of Albuquerque.

After fuelling up we snacked at a tiny (but licensed!) road side Mexican food caravan: Real Mexican tacos (tiny and nothing like the ones we get in Australia) and Sangri flavoured soda! Headed west on Interstate-40. Again.

Roadside tacos!

Recreated adobe mud house at Kuaua Pueblo, site of a 700 year old Indian settlement.

Distant ridge lines like car bonnets are straight from the movie Cars!

Iconic St Joseph’s in Sanfidel.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 Back on Route 66 at Paraje and followed it 60ish miles before rejoining the main road into Gallup. Heaps of old buildings and signs on this run and nothing much developed on the Acoma Indian reservation, on the run in.

Crossed the Continental Divide highpoint 7275 ft (2213 m) on old Route 66, with spectacular views of the Hog’s Back Mountain. Found another user friendly Walmart in Gallup for the night and planned a 2 night stop so Cowboy Rick can work tomorrow arvo and I can find a laundromat. Exciting stuff this international travel.

Crossing the Continental divide, just a few feet shorter than the peak of Mount Kosciusko.

Strange bedfellow at Walmart in Gallup, New Mexico.

29

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

30

Day 10 ear Diary, have struck a major catastrophe.

Went shopping this morning to provision for next three days, only to find that in the State of New Mexico it is illegal for shops to sell alcohol on a Sunday. That's all day Sunday, unlike Missouri, which was no alcohol sales before noon on Sundays. So the plan suddenly changed and we left New Mexico for Arizona, where liquor laws were reformed in 2010. Hallelujah!

D

Wine with dinner, how civilised. Now planning to get to Holbrook via the Petrified Forest National Park. Stay tuned.

©

Google Maps 2013

Part of a roadside tribute to early miners on the outskirts of Gallup.

The Painted Desert Inn is a must-see attraction that’s been beautifully restored by the National Parks Service, but it’s a pity it’s not operational. It would make a fabulous hotel and refreshment stop as it’s genuinely in the middle of nowhere and the views are to die for. Well, almost...

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

No wonder they call it the Painted Desert.

31

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

This enormous petrified tree is millions of years old (ditto amazed sightseer in background!).

Petrified Forest was amazing.

Wasn’t scared at all. Fab colours in the Painted Desert, too. Just stunning and could easily have spent all day there but travelled on and popped out at Holbrook.

Holbrook had no AT&T data reception for Cowboy Rick to email so we went up the road a little further and overnighted in Walmart in Winslow, Arizona. Native Indians made a nuisance of themselves to us and surrounding RVs in the carpark, wanting money. Very drunk/stoned and very sad.

They knocked on the door but in the end we just ignored them (after talking through the window). Fortunately, no agro.

Just very sad.

In sunlight the colours of the petrified wood are beautiful.

32

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Wigwam Hotel, Holbrook, Arizona.

Every wigwam has a classic car parked by the door. Nice..

33

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Day 11 ear Diary, we’re "Standing on the corner in Winslow Arizona." A special corner dedicated to the Eagles’ song Taking It Easy. The first photo shoot for the day and only 08:10 (only because we picked up another hour yesterday).

Heading into Flagstaff today stopping for great photos

D

of the San Francisco peaks and abandoned Two Arrow’s Trading Post, just before Flagstaff.

Made a side trip to Meteorite Crater but didn't go in as they wanted $16 each admission, which is expensive for USA tourist stuff. Were expecting about $10 each compared to what we have been paying so far and after all, it’s just a big hole in the ground!

Stopped at a few sites in Flagstaff and then Cowboy

34

Rick was looking for a place to work. The old Museum Club and El Pueblo had great Neons. Had lunch on the old Route 66 at an eclectic diner called Miz Zips. Fabulous and a bit like something out of Twin Peaks. Great burger and blackberry pie. I am heading to the laundromat to do our washing while CR works.

Successful washing but not emailing as AT&T network down. On the move again to find overnight stop with a better connection. Oh dear, Flagstaff not helping us. Tried Pilot gas

Standing on the corner in Winslow Arizona: A tribute to the Eagles' song Taking It Easy that made the town famous. ©

Google Maps 2013

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 station and two Walmarts, but no overnight parking allowed.

Flagstaff very unfriendly for RVs. Its loss.

35

The Twin Arrows Trading Post has certainly seen better days.

Pushing on up the I-40 towards Kingman and saw first road signs to Los Angles.

Getting far to close to the end of this great adventure!

Crossed elevation 2229 metres just west of Flagstaff, even higher than the supposed highest point a few days ago.

You guys...

Seriously starting to push poop up hill to find a night stop. Williams was a great looking town where the Grand Canyon Railway train departs from, but has signs everywhere stating no parking or overnighting. Tried the Grand Canyon Railway trailer park but declined their $39 a night hospitality. The town of Williams looks like a great place and is the most lively Route 66 town we’ve seen. It appears to be a destination in its own right. Train trips take people on a day trip to the Grand Canyon in carriages restored for 1901. Looks fantastic – but no time or money for us (Adults $59-$199 with choice of 6 classes).

Moved on down the valley and found a perfect spot just off the road in the tiny town of Ash Fork. Think the world has forgotten Ash Fork. PS. We didn't forget Winona although its another place the world forgot and hardly worth a visit.

The Museum Club, Flagstaff.

Stop by for a beer, smoke and a game of pool...

Miz Zip’s does great burgers and a roaring trade but is cash only – in America!

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Day 12

ear Diary, found out this morning we cannot extend our rental for a further 3 days as hoped/ planned/desired. Bugger! So

D

36

we needed to get a move on if we want to do a side trip to Vegas. Seligman was a fabulous surprise early in the morning and we got

Our green and pleasant roadside free camping area just outside tiny Ash Fork, Arizona (pop 475)

Desoto’s Salon couldn’t make the cut and is for sale. Things are pretty tough in Ash Fork, an old railway town that has proclaimed itself the Flagstone Capital of the World, due to its large number of quarries and stone yards.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 real espresso from the Road Runner Cafe (plus saw a man with a pearl handled revolver in a holster), and a second breakfast of a short stack of BIG pancakes at the Road Kill Cafe. Fantastic!

Seligman is like a Route 66 sideshow: Lots of fun and things to see and buy, like this cool cactus curio...

37

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 Seligman is the birthplace of the Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona. Leaving the I-40 here and taking the long way around on the 66 to Kinsman. Historic Burma Shave road signs dotted along this stretch with messages like, “You can drive a mile a minute but there is no future in it!” and “If daisies are your favourite flower then push on up your miles per hour.” Love ‘em.

Stunning scenery abounds across Arizona.

Found this gorgeous old Corvette out the front of Hackberry General Store and gas station.

38

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

©

Google Maps 2013

Seligman to Kingman on Route 66 is a spectacular drive that drops dramatically through a rock-strewn canyon and loses some 500 metres elevation in the process.

Decided to leave the ‘66 at Kingman to do a side trip to Vegas, like many a westward traveller would have done in days gone by. Route 66 down off the plateau to Needles is impassable for vehicles over 40 feet. We are 32-and-a-bit-

Downtown Seligman: Something tacky for everyone!

Now THAT’S a locomotive. This giant old steam engine sits in a park in Kingman, Arizona.

39

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 feet but don't need a steep decent with this relentless wind. Cowboy Rick decided on a side trip to the mining town of Chloride just because he like the name. Not really worth it.

Entered Nevada across the new Mike O' Calaghan and Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge and circled back and down to Hoover Dam. AMAZING. Parked and walked across the dam then up and over the new bridge. BIG views – and crowds to match.

Approaching Nevada and the Hoover Dam. Spectacular!

The new bridge between Arizona and Nevada, looking from the Hoover Dam. It’s 840 ft (260 m) above the Colorado River and you can walk across (if you’re game).

40

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

41

Hoover Dam as seen from the new bridge: It might be more than 80 years old but its scale and setting are breathtaking.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 On into Vegas where we are booked on the Strip at Circus Circus Casino, which has an RV park! How cool is that? With a hop-on hop-off bus just a few hundred metres away that goes the length of the Strip we are very happy to leave the Queen and let someone else do the driving. Amazing changes since we were here 13 years ago.

We promised we would be back but perhaps didn't think it would take so long. Checked in to Circus Circus RV park and went for a quick walk to the strip.

42

Circus Circus RV Park is more like a carpark than anything recreational.

Day 13 Dear Diary, work day for CR today so I'm bumming around reading and catching up on the budget. Went out at 3 pm and walked and took the bus the length of the strip. Got front seats all the way home.

Vegas has certainly changed since our last visit. Lots of new buildings and lights and movement everywhere. Back now at 6 for CR to do some more work and then will go uptown again when the lights are all on. Headed back out at 9 to see the Strip in all its night time glory. Great fun.

Very buzzy. Found the joy of Ben and Jerry's triple caramel chunk ice cream. Should be illegal! Jenny Craig says so...

Circus Circus can accommodate rigs up to 90 feet long. Thank goodness.

The Las Vegas strip never stops, even during the day.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

By day sightseers enjoy the Bellagio’s beautiful lake and inviting gardens.

Caesar’s Palace by night: truly spectacular!

43

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Where else but Las Vegas would you find a 25% scale replica of the Eiffel tower?

44

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 ©

45

Google Maps 2013

Day 14 ear Diary, out of Circus Circus and Las Vegas early and heading down south to meet Route 66 at Barstow in California. Between Kingman and Barstow we missed some of the original Route 66, but from Needles across the old road was just the I-40 anyway.

D

Rejoined the old ‘66 at Barstow in California and stopped at the fabulous Santa Fe Rail Museum. We then did 38 miles of old ‘66 until Victorville, where it become the I-40 most of the way to San Bernadino. Cutting across from Victorville to Palmdale and up to our friend’s place in Quartz Hill for a final night before LA. Great night but maybe a little too much red.

Definitely...

She’s the Queen of the World!

Leonardo DiCaprio, eat your heart out...

I had one of these in a train set as a kid. It’s bigger than I remember...

Barstow’s beautiful and historic railway station also houses an excellent railway museum.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 ©

46

Google Maps 2013

Day 15 ear Diary, final run down to Santa Monica and the Pacific Ocean. Very buzzy and very California.

Then emptied black and grey tanks at a beach-side RV park and refuelled before packing everything into our bags and dropping stuff off at our hotel.

D

Another day at ‘the office’.

Reluctantly returned the Queen Mary to Apollo’s LA rental depot. Sad day and sorry to see Her Majesty go.

Former Cowboy Rick (now just Mr iMotorhome) working this evening to get Issue 23 of the mag out, which has been fun/ interesting/difficult with all the travelling and time differences.

Two nights here with a day trip tomorrow to backtrack along Route 66 though San Bernardino.

Made it! But nowhere to stop a 10 metre RV and take happy snaps...

The beachside Dockweiler RV Park just south of Santa Monica is where we dumped our tanks prior to returning the Queen Mary to Apollo. What a location! Rates are $55-$65 a night; about the same as Circus Circus in Las Vegas.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Retracing our steps to Victorville, old Route 66 becomes the Interstate’s secondary/emergency road and is a glorious drive as it winds thought the hills.

47

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 ©

48

Google Maps 2013

Day 16 ear Diary, picked up the hire car and took the freeway all the way back to Victorville, where we exited the Route 66 to visit our friends and drink too much red two days ago. The road climbs dramatically through Cajon Pass and is the most amazing five lanes of freeway both ways. Dropped into Target to use the loos and came out with a winter wardrobe for Mr iM: One sports coat, one fleecy zip-up, five long sleeve Ts and four T-shirts for $100.30. I love America!

D

From Victorville, back down the hill into San Bernardino.

We found some old stretches of the dual-lane Route 66 that now serve as the freeway alternate, but only one side (two lanes) is used for all traffic. Made our way to the 'unofficial’ McDonald’s Museum and spent an hour or so with Rory Murray, a very keen McDonald's and San Bernardino history buff, who explained the whole

McDonald’s story. Fascinating!

Heard all about Albert Okura who is preserving a lot of Route 66 and recently bought a town called Amboy on eBay! Unfortunately it was one of the towns we missed with our Vegas side trip. Bummer Dude.

Took Route 66 halfway back to our hotel but ran out of light and time and jumped back on the freeway.

The site of the original McDonald’s store in San Bernardino is now an unofficial museum due to a decades-old dispute with McDonald’s.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

49

Ramshackle and crammed inside with all manner of memorabilia, the side wall features a fascinating mural that traces the Route 66 and McDonald’s stories.

This is one small step for a man, one slightly smaller step for his wife.

Museum host Rory Murray is a fountain of information and a great guide.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

50

The oldest continuously operating McDonald’s in the world. It will be 60 years old on August 18th this year.

Now you can see where the Golden Arches concept comes from.

Day 17 ear Diary, requested a late check out from Comfort Inn today so are packing and psyching ourselves up for the trip home tonight. Before then we’re going to find the oldest continuously operating McDonald's in Downey, about 12 miles from here and then for a drive down to Laguna Beach just to kill time.

D

The McDonald's was amazing and so different from the modern stores. Just the same as it was in 1950-something.

Shame the prices haven’t stayed the same! Time to head to the airport, drop the car off and head home. What an adventure – but not for the faint hearted!

Originally take-away only, a small dining rotunda was later added to the right. It now also houses an equally small museum.

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66 Before Ronald McDonald there was Speedee.

Think I like Ronald better...

51

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Route 66 goes straight to your heart.

Travel is a learning experience. Here are some things we discovered to help make your USA road trip easier and more enjoyable...

52

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

53

Useful Books EZ66 GUIDE FOR TRAVELERS “The easy way to find and enjoy Route 66. Includes easy-to-use maps and directions you can follow going east or west, attractions, games and historic details. Written, designed and illustrated by noted authority Jerry McClanahan” Now in its third edition, Internet research showed this to be the one musthave book for our travels. It certainly proved its worth and it’s handy glove box size and spiral binding made it easy to read and store the vehicle. The author is part of the modern day Route 66 mystique and is certainly well known along its length.

This is a book you really want to buy in advance and spend some time studying because there is so much information crammed into each page.

It’s difficult to make any sense of to begin with, because it’s full of hand drawn maps, illustrations and notes – which is why you need to spend some time studying it. The level of detail is mind-boggling for each section of the Route and on many pages Jerry lists separate maps and information for different construction phases of the road in that area.

The good news is it does start to make sense as you travel with it and the best idea is to try and plan your travels the day or two ahead, to work out which bits you want to drive on and what you really want to see.

You’ll find most states have their own Route 66 touring guides available at state tourist offices, often when you cross the border, and these make good companions to EZ66.

Title: EZ66 Guide fo Author: Jerry McC

r Travelers

lanahan Publisher: Nationa l Historic Route 66 Federation Buy It: Find it on A mazon.com, starting around US $15 plus postage

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Useful Books THE ROUTE 66 DINING & LODGING GUIDE “Where to stay and where to eat on Route 66. Over 500 places in all Route 66 States objectivity selected and rated by National Route 66 Federation Members.”

View this as a companion book to the EZ66 Guide, but it’s certainly not essential for your travels, especially if you’re motorhoming and predominantly self catering. A compilation of Member reviews of both accommodation and eateries, despite its fancy cover it’s full of quite small and poor quality blackand-white photos with just the briefest details. These include the address, website, phone numbers, approximate prices and a few words on what’s available. Nice to have but certainly not essential, we bought it as a package deal on Amazon.com with the ZZ Guide.

Title: The R oute 66 Din ing & Lodging Gu ide.

Author: Nati onal Route 66 Federation Publisher: N ational Histo ric Route 66 Federati on Buy It: Find it on Amazo n.com, starting aro und US$13 plus postage

54

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

6 6 e t u o R

Useful Websites A small selection of websites with useful trip information, in alphabetical order.

America’s Byways: byways.org/explore/byways/2489 Driving Route 66: www.drivingroute66.com The National Route 66 Federation: www.national66.org Historic Route 66: www.historic66.com US National Parks Service: nps.gov/history/nr/travel/route66/ Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._Route_66

55

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

Useful Apps Hema USA Road Atlas - $10.49 Just like a paper road atlas but with GPS tracking.

TomTom USA-Canada - $64.99 Excellent turn-by-turn GPS with free lifetime map updates Allstays ONP Walmart - $2.99 Lists and maps all Walmart stores for overnight parking.

Allstays Truck & Travel - $10.49 Gas stations and dump points across North America.

Allstays RV Care Network - Free RV service centres if you’re in your own vehicle.

Priceline - Free: Show accommodation with prices on a zoomable map.

Can also book.

Useful Maps When we toured the US and Canada in 2000 we relied entirely on a huge Rand McNally road atlas. They still make them and our rental relocation came with one.

56

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

57

Food Hints food (and wine!) every 2-3 We primarily self-catered, shopping at Walmarts for fresh d beef, pork and chicken days. Walmart has a range of excellent quality pre-cooke ade plain mashed potato that only needs reheating. Combined with a tub of pre-m oli/peas or similar) steamed and a bag or two of fresh mixed veggies (carrots/brocc meal on the table within 20 in the microwave, it was easy and quick to get a healthy mins of making camp in the evening. toast), while lunches were Breakfast was usually light (poached/scrambled eggs and rence. If you like good coffee mainly eaten out as we travelled, with Subway our prefe e at Walmart on day one. For then buy a bodem plus some good quality ground coffe ucks that we refilled at a coffee on the go we bought two travelling cups from Starb brought the bodem and discount whenever a Starbucks presented itself. We also while you’re driving and to travelling cups home, just because we could. For water at Walmart proved the most make tea and coffee, buying bulk packs of small bottles ly friendly. convenient and cost effective, if not the most ecological a comparative arm and Stay away from ‘proper’ restaurants in America; they cost priced drinks even if the a leg and will always make you go to the bar first for over better/healthier fast-food place is empty. When eating out on a budget, look for the Mexican style food – and also outlets like Chipotle, which serve excellent fresh-made a decent margarita!

Putting mixed vegetables into containers help ed keep them fresh for steaming at dinner time.

Three days of dinners, wine and desserts. Thanks Walmart!

USA Special: Get your Kicks on Route 66

58

Travel Costs in US$ Here’s a breakdown of our travel expenses for three weeks, excluding international and domestic airfares but including our pre and post Route 66 accommodation, sightseeing, rental car, etc: Fuel (2707 miles/4357 km): $1198.78 Rental ($20 x 14 nights):

$ 280.00

Travel costs (Pre/post accomm, RV parks, entrance fees, rental car, etc):

$1079.70

Spending (Meals in and out, coffees, vehicle provisions, souvenirs, etc):

$1488.46

Total in US$: $4046.94