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the psychology of self Handmade in the UK Airbrushing and the art of self deception by Cecilia d’Felice All that glitters, lives in Bond Street, London W1 / Art’s Kingmakers Fashion on the 38th Floor - The Gherkin shoot / Boutique designer Gifts The world’s finest board games / ConnectJets and the world of private aviation
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contents
winter 2010
INTERNATIONAL LIFE
6&7 8&9 12&13 15 16&17 20/22 23/25 26&27 28&34 35
international insight luxury inspiration business
Issue IV
best of london: Andy Willetts’ essential selection includes the circus and the Savoy. Both are utterly magnificent. That’s all you need to know Extreme cowes: Yves de Contades sails close to the wind on an adrenalin fuelled day, racing catamarans
jewellery gallery: Think Jewellery and the treasures of Bond St jump to mind. International Life agonised over their final gallery selections the luxury business: Introducing our new section which focuses on entrepreneurs, innovators and leaders in the luxury sector entrepreneur: Aviation trailblazer, Gabriella Somerville talks about the journey which led to the launch of ConnectJets in 2009 and her vision for the brand
Entrepreneur: Samir Ceric has been credited with reigniting the west London art scene. Peter Doherty finds ambitions run much further than that. Today London. Tomorrow the world Entrepreneur: Quentin Mackay imparts some crucial advice on purchasing luxury handbags. In fact he’s written 10 commandments. So read and you’ll never have to weep Entrepreneur: We give an at-a-glance brand history of Geoffrey Parker Games. This will leave you in no doubt why so many believe they make the finest board games on the planet... all in the UK FASHION: The height of luxury. International Life scaled the heights to the Gherkin’s 38th floor - home to Searcys members club. Perfect for 360° panoramas and a stunningly elegant, fashion shoot psYchology: Cecilia d’Felice takes the media to task for promoting the cosmetic surgery culture and demonising the natural ageing process www.internationallife.tv
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The Psychology of self: Yves de Contades helps capture the ‘self’ portraits of leading creative figures from the UK communications industry. Leading psychologist Cecilia d’Felice analyses the results Tech. Gadget gallery: Damien Gabet assesses the latest eye catching gizmos and offers his recommendations Gran Hotel La Florida, Barcelona: Damien Gabet revels in a short stay at one of the ‘best small hotels in the world’ Travel - croatia: It’s white truffle season. Leave the greedy pigs and bring out the dogs Croatian style. Oh and Damien Gabet gets to stay in the country’s only 5 star hotel in beautiful Istria Film: Martin Gutteridge-Hewitt laments the passing of Martin Luther King and John and Robert Kennedy in the labour of love, that is KingKennedy. Martin also speaks to Lu Chuan about his masterpiece City of Life & Death ART: Keira Rathbone’s retro typewriter art has computer keyboards tapping in social media excitement. Beautiful and bizarre travel: Peter Doherty spends an indulgent weekend in Geneva discovers Calvinism and clean water... no really - then loses all track of time in Grand Hotel Kempinski’s new spa. ‘So would you’, he says Small gift gallery: Birmingham was once dubbed ‘the workshop of the world,’ because of it’s diverse skill base. That legacy is alive and kicking in the guise of thriving independent jewellery makers, designers, sculptors, artisans and crafts people. We take our pick... music: Profile of Sophie Hiller. Young, gifted and from Barnet - well there’s two out of three. Damien Gabet turns on his auto-tune and sings the questions in key beauty: We all get the warnings on sun damage to our skin but the promise of a mediterranean tan makes us hard of hearing. Katie Service offers some repair remedies that may well open those ears to the facts London villages: International Life peers behind the curtain of the boutique neighbourhoods of Mayfair, South Kensington, Canary Wharf, Notting Hill and Westminster and unearths some pretty cool finds CITY diary: Fine tailoring, one of the City’s first ‘natural wine’ bars and the latest boutique hotel. Three different experiences, right on the doorstep of the square mile. Perfect. Food & drink: Iqbal Wahhab takes a trip down culinary lane and finds that Salloos is as uncompromising as ever and Bar Boulud, irritatingly impressive Food & drink: Rebecca Gonsalves is content to fill up her basket with the manna from heaven and nectar from the gods - and she revels in disclosing the receipt BOOKS: Victoria Maw says throw in the towel and ditch the baths and instead indulge in a spot of bibliotherapy, botox for the brain, at Mr B’s Emporium of Reading Delights
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masthead The International Life brand is expressed through multiple media: quarterly magazine / website / e-newsletter / social media / video
The Psychology of Self. Winter 2010
You. London. The World
W
e would like to introduce you to our new business section, showcasing the leaders, newcomers and innovators of today and tomorrow. They share their thoughts and passions with International Life on their business journeys, their successes and their vision for their brands. What each has in common is a singlemindedness, a clarity of thought and an appreciation of the value of finding common ground and forging partnerships in their sector. Art svengali, Samir Ceric explains how art, business and entertainment can come together with huge mutual benefits. ConnectJets founder Gabriella Somerville is the sort of innovator that could turn private aviation on its head. As the sector’s only female operator, she’s ideally placed to take advantage of the new rich superpower; women in business. Finally, just when you think the UK has reduced all of its ancient craftsmen down to keyboard operators, we discover Geoffrey Parker, maker of the finest board games in the world. Wait for it.. all handmade in the UK. Quality counts for something.
The Editor Publishers Director of Brand: Peter Doherty peter@publishingsociety.com www.twitter.com/luxurybrand Photography and Art Director: Yves de Contades yves@publishingsociety.com Editorial team Editorial Director: Yves de Contades yves@publishingsociety.com Editor in Chief: Peter Doherty peter@publishingsociety.com Editorial Assistant: Damien Gabet damien@internationallife.tv Editorial (Film): Martin Gutteridge-Hewitt martin@internationallife.tv Design & Art Direction Peter Doherty Fashion Fashion: Sara Darling Photography: Yves de Contades Photographic Assistant: James Nixon Hair & Make up: Jennie Lam www.jenniemakeup.heroku.com Advertising Sales: 020 7932 0802 Peter Doherty peter@internationallife.tv Yves de Contades yves@internationallife.tv
Editorial Specialists Psychology: Dr Cecilia d’Felice Arts/Travel/India: Priyadarshini Kohli Scent: Celia Lyttelton Beauty: Katie Service Film: Martin Gutteridge-Hewitt Boats and Sailing: Laura Aitken London: Clare Richardson London: Andy Willetts Luxury Brands/Arts/Travel: Peter Doherty Fashion/Psychology: Yves de Contades Fashion: Sara Darling Fashion: Indian Princess Books: Victoria Maw Art: Gavin Haines Travel/Tech/Music: Damien Gabet Food & Drink/Travel: Iqbal Wahhab Food & Drink: Rebecca Gonsalves Business: Maisha Frost Front cover credits Talisman jewellery necklace and ring by De Beers Model: Irenca at MandP Models Photography: Yves de Contades Photographic Assistant: Darren Lynsdale Hair and Make up: Vaida Mugenyte, www.vaida.co.uk using Laura Mercier cosmetics Produced by Karen Doyle Print dress by Louise Amstrup www.louise-amstrup.com
International Life is published quarterly by International Life Magazine Ltd., 35 Morland House, Marsham St, London SW1P 4JH. Registered Company No: 06532821. Telephone: 020 7932 0802. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Transparencies and other material submitted for publication are sent at the owner’s risk and, while every care is taken, neither International Life Magazine Ltd, nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. Although International Life Magazine Ltd has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. Opinions expressed are those of the contributors. Always seek independent advice before making any investment which is at your own risk. For subscriptions and back issues: email subscriptions@internationallife.tv for details.
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London best of
International Life’s Andrew Willetts finds London in top form from the ‘new’ Savoy to the capital’s new Charles Saatchi, not forgetting the comedy, the Boat Show and the impossibly amazing Cirque du Soleil at the Royal Albert Hall
The Savoy
Pearl 75
It has now been almost three years since the Savoy closed for renovation but from mid-October it will open its doors for business once again. The work done on London’s most iconic hotel - reportedly running over budget by £100 million will be breathtaking, with design by Pierre Yves Rochon.
As summer is now a distant memory, it is natural to begin imagining oneself in warmer climes as a psychological defence against Britain’s dismal winter weather. This would undoubtedly be made even easier with the knowledge that your luxury yacht was waiting to whisk you to the Côte d’Azur at a moment’s notice. May we recommend the Pearl 75?
In addition to the extensive renovation work performed on the hotel’s 268 guestrooms and suites, the reopening brings the welcome return of the Savoy Grill. We are pleased to hear that Stuart Gillies, who is currently the Head Chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Boxwood Café, will be the Grill’s new Chef Patron. Strand, London, WC2R 0EU 0207 8364343 www.the-savoy.com
Cirque du Soleil January sees Canada’s Cirque du Soleil stop off at the Royal Albert Hall with its new show Totem. Unusually, Totem is travelling to Europe before it is shown in the USA, where the productions traditionally spend their first year. The show’s concept is based on humanity’s evolution, both biologically and culturally, using the totem as a motif. Expect acrobatic routines that are as immaculately choreographed as they are pulse-raisingly dangerous and an atmospheric score that is punctuated by regular gasps from the audience. Friday 7 January - Sunday 30 January 2011 Kensington Gore, London SW7 2AP 0845 4015045 www.cirquedusoleil.com www.royalalberthall.com
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Launching at the London Boat Show in January is Pearl Motor Yachts’s £2m flagship vessel, the 75 is elegant, opulent and endlessly luxurious. It is also extremely well equipped with four guest cabins, a bar, a state-of the-art entertainment system and even has a garage for your jet ski. Tullett Prebon London International Boat Show 2011 7th - 16th January 2011 ExCeL One Western Gateway, Royal Victoria Dock, London, E16 1XL www.pearlmotoryachts.com
Yes Prime Minister For many comedy aficionados, Yes Prime Minister remains the BBC’s greatest political satire, despite the recent challenge by the brilliant The Thick of It. Almost 30 years on from the sitcom’s first broadcast it comes to the West End in a production at the Gielgud Theatre by the series original writers. Yes Prime Minister was renowned for being one of Margaret Thatcher’s favourite programmes, hinting at the authenticity of the exchanges between the beleaguered PM and his wily mandarin, Sir Humphrey Appleby. Coincidentally, in this version, Prime Minister Jim Hacker is played by David Haig who recently featured in The Thick of It.
Runs until 15th January 2011 Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, London, United Kingdom, W1D 6AR www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk
SaLon Contemporary Westbourne Grove’s SaLon Contemporary gallery is tireless in its showcasing of young artists, carefully selected by director, Samir Ceric. Since its inception in 2006, it has uncovered a wealth of exciting new talent. This year, SaLon has been selecting a different artist each week to be featured on their blog and from 1st December the best of these will be exhibited in a special Christmas show. While the names may be relatively unknown at the moment, some of these will be the big artists of tomorrow. 1st December 2010 - 10th January 2011 SaLon Contemporary, 82 Westbourne Grove, London, W2 5RT www.saloncontemporary.com
Stewart Lee - Vegetable Stew The poster for Stewart Lee’s new show boldly displays a quote from the Sun’s Fergus Shanahan which describes him as being “as funny as bubonic plague.” This is not a view held by many however, as Lee’s reputation as the comedian’s comedian will attest. The Leicester Square Theatre is home to his new show, Vegetable Stew, throughout November, December and January, following his tour of the UK. Lee’s deadpan delivery and trademark ruthlessness will ensure that Vegetable Stew will be even funnier than the Black Death. Runs until 20th January 2011 Leicester Square Theatre, 6 Leicester Pl, London WC2H 7BX www.stewartlee.co.uk
best of london
top of page: Cirque du Soleil middle left: SaLon Contemporary bottom right: Savoy, London bottom left: Pearl 75 (cgi) left hand page, top left: Yes Minister
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sailing
T
he Extreme Sailing Series is a giant catamaran race held in five different European destinations. It is swift, skillful and very exciting to watch. It is even more exciting to join in, which is where the fifth man comes in. The fifth man is a new tradition, each of these fantastic racing boats has a crew of 4 and must carry an amateur in each race. Presumably for the same reason you have bunkers in golf. At best something to increase the challenge, at worst something that just annoys and gets in the way. Another possibility is that the 5th man has such a great time that it keeps the crew from ever forgetting what amazing fun their job is. I was blown away, pun intended, this is sailing at its most exciting, fast, complex, skillful and without doubt extremely risky for the boats concerned. It was wonderful. You get to feel the wind in your hair, the speed across the water, the waves in your face and the near misses with the other racing boats. All of which pale beside the thrill of the near scrapes with the weekend pleasure boats, who are hoping to catch a glimpse of the catamarans as they skim past with mere inches to spare. The Ecover Sailing Team is skippered by FICO and IMOCA World Champion Mike Golding and features the British Olympic sailing duo of Leigh McMillan and Will Howden. The fourth member of the team onboard is America’s Cup and Volvo Ocean Race sailor Andrew McLean from New Zealand. Mike Golding had clearly spent at least half his life on the water, he is tanned and weathered like the proverbial salty sea dog, albeit with regular access to good skin cream. A healthy round face with a wide, gleaming smile, very indicative of a man who really enjoys his profession. This guy exudes an easy charm and friendly nature, with a competitive edge of course. The rest of his team look like the fit, olympic athletes the girls come to Cowes week to find. Outdoor, healthy work with some great travel. If you are young I would
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International Life’s Yves de Contades wanted to ride the waves with the wind in his hair and the sun on his skin. He got much more than he bargained for on his Extreme Sailing sojourn. Get ready, lean back and hold on tight... recommend trawling the internet for sailing jobs now. You are escorted to the boat from the shore on a RIB, a narrow speed boat, which is great fun in itself. Half standing / sitting on a central cushion holding on to the bar in front as the boat jumps up and down over the swell. The waves curling up over the side and spraying into your face. Fantastic. Then it’s a determined leap onto the €300,000 catamaran. A bounce around the net stretched out over the water to get your sea legs
real advantage catching the right wind and potentially turning round the marker buoys free of interference from the rest. Aaaand we’re off, some of the boats rush ahead, whilst our boat stays back clearly hoping for a clean wind to get a clear line and the acceleration up to eventually take the others. The boat leans heavily on one side or the other as the sails billow above. As fifth man it’s your job to watch where the crew are going and keep pace with them, darting from side to side. Keeping out of their way if at all possible. You feel like John Cleese, from the
and then a short wait for the loud buzzers that start the race. There are three buzzers sounded, one at 4 mins before, then a reminder at three and then the one minute buzzer. The race starts in line with the lights flashing from The Royal Yachting clubhouse. The race goes from the clubhouse along the coast and around various marker buoys for about 10 minutes around either an oval or triangular course. The boats ruthlessly jostle for position at the starter line as the first boat gets a
Ministry of Silly Walks, as you veer across what is essentially a trampoline a few feet above the water travelling at 25 knots, whilst the crew turn, pull, spin and weave the various ropes and pulleys dotted about the boat. All this at very high speed in waters crowded with other boats. The captain Mike Golding exemplifies old English manners as he remains polite at all times at high velocity, “could you move to the back of the boat please” as he runs past, nimbly dodging moving booms, sails and ropes scattered all over.
sailing
all the action takes place on a moving trampoline at 45 degrees to the water Did I mention that as the boat turns each side alternates in rising 6 feet into the air, so all the action takes place on a moving trampoline at 45 degrees to the water with a boom swinging at perfect head height. The crew are constantly watching everything like hawks, the reaction times here are instantaneous, the sails have to be rapidly trimmed, tacking and jibing in perfect timing to get the right line and avoid the other vessels. It is wonderful to watch as you skim past another boat, with inches to spare. It seems impossible that there are not numerous collisions on a daily basis.
This really demands amazing sailing skills. Though apparently last year one of the boats did clip the end of another removing its back end completely. Very expensive I believe. It’s incredible it does not happen every race. We are tearing along now, skimming artfully over the Solent. The Red Bull boat skims by, just squeaking past the Rothschild team. Its runner lifts out of the water exposing a naked painted mermaid. I am willing the Ecover team on as we spin round the marker buoy, literally a foot away, and turn for home. We are just behind the Rothschild and Red Bull boat as we glide over the water. There is a good westerly wind blowing along the shoreline now. We come in second and as fifth man I was hoping to bring them better luck, this is exciting stuff and you really get the urge to win. However they have more races today and the winning score is tallied over all the races for each day and they win the next one. As expressed by Extreme Sailing themselves “The creators of the Extreme 40 took the biggest, fastest sailing boat in the Olympics then made it twice as big and even faster. And no, brakes do not come as standard…” It’s brilliant fun to watch and even more fun to take part. Do what ever it takes but put this on your calendar of things that must be experienced for yourself. It is a fantastic way to get into sailing and a thrilling spectator sport.
For more information on the boats, athletes, and dates visit: www.extremesailingseries.com www.internationallife.tv/luxury
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U-42 Last year, U-BOAT unveiled a 65mm monster – the U-1942. Each of the 29 collector’s pieces were made of Grade-5 Titanium with the widest sapphire glass available in the world. This year U-BOAT have launched its little brother, a 53mm version limited to 999 pieces worldwide, the U-42. Armed with the U-28 Movement, this resized edition has a 40 hour power-reserve and is water-proof to a depth of 300m. The U-42’s winding crown was built in two parts: One is attached to the movement stem whilst the other is hinged with a pivot. This flexible joint configuration allows the crown to protrude considerably from the watch for winding and setting, yet returning it to a protected, hidden position. This type of crown is imperative under extreme conditions, designed for when wearing protective gloves whilst operating underwater or during expeditions at Arctic temperatures. The U-BOAT trademark has always been its distinctive left-hook opens up wrist movements and, in everyday use, it simply doesn’t dig into your hand. Most U-BOAT pieces have a double crown system that reinforces its water-resistance; the U-42’s crown has been reinvented to lock it in and lock it down.
Black Titanium
Sterling Silver This Sterling Silver piece epitomises the Classico range. Available in both 45mm and 53mm, this watch’s modern luxuriousness and classic simplicity is heightened by a rich silver case designed to tarnish gently with wear and ‘grow vintage’ on the wearer’s wrist. Featuring the iconic U-BOAT left crown and chronograph, the Swiss Valjoux movement is encased within a handmade Italian case. Mixing textures and materials, in a way only Italians know how, is one of U-BOAT’s biggest design facets. The numbers on the dial which seem black from afar are actually a cutaway layer through the dial to a second carbon fibre dial. This almost secret texture made only apparent to the wearer is echoed in the secret alligator lining of the strap creating a stronger feel that is softer on the skin.
The U-52 Black Titanium is a fresh instalment to the Classico family. It is one of the only black titanium watches in the world and weighs in at only 179g and is waterproof to 200m. As a result, the exhibition glass that usually shows the entire movement has been reduced in size to focus on the balance wheel to minimize the surface over which high pressure has an effect. The titanium is lasered within a vacuum chamber, coating the titanium with a virtually impenetrable carbon coating. Sitting atop the all black stealth watch rests the 2mm thick sapphire glass, exaggerating the matt black case with its shine. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide, this incredibly light case-build sports a Valjoux movement with a power reserve of 44 hours at 28,800 alternations per hour.
On the back of the single block of sterling silver is written “Hand Made For” allowing for the personal touch. There are 999 of this watch worldwide.
jewellery
Mayfair Collection earrings by Asprey POA
Camelot Necklace by Asprey POA
Diamond necklace by Leviev POA
Yellow and white diamond chandelier earrings by Leviev POA
Imperiale steel watch by Chopard POA
Diamond charm bracelet by Leviev POA
Ruby my Love necklace by Adler POA
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Fancy Intense Yellow ring by Leviev POA
jewellery
Clef de Sol earrings by Adler POA Clef de Sol necklace by Adler POA
Crab cuff by Chopard POA
International Life drew a sharp intake of breath before embarking on its latest shopping expedition. Why? It’s a national treasure, Bond St, London W1
Ruby my Love earrings by Adler POA
Protector ring by Asprey POA
Protector necklace by Asprey POA
Les Voyages Extraordinaires - necklace Thenaria by Van Cleef & Arpels POA
Jardin Italien de la Renaissance by Van Cleef & Arpels POA
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R - 5 0 - T N - AR
www.brm-manufacture.com For stockist enquiries please telephone +33 (0)1 61 02 00 25 J u R A LT D 0 8 0 0 0 1 1 2 7 0 4 - T H E WAT C H G A L L E RY 0 2 0 7 5 8 1 3 2 3 9 - F RO S T O F L O N D O N 0 2 0 3 3 7 2 0 1 0 8
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E Environment
U Ci Universal
City
B R Behavioural
Research
En L In P Bu S D Co Entrepreneur
Luxury
Innovation
Property
Business
Sales
Development
Consumer
Le W M I Br O Ps F Ma Ex Leader
World
Markets
Investment
Brands
Opportunity
Psychology
Fortune
Management
Exchange
Sp C G Di A Cu H Sk Specialist
Capital
Global
Digital
International Life’s Business section introduces you to some of the most dynamic entrepreneurs, specialists and innovators in the luxury industry.
Arts
Currency
Handmade
Skills
T Transaction
We interview aviation powerhouse Gabriella Somerville, MD of ConnectJets, Samir Ceric, champion and kingmaker of new artists at London’s SaLon Contemporary and showcase the world’s most unique collection of traditional board games, made exclusively in the UK by Geoffrey Parker. Luxury goods maestro, Quentin Mackay advises on consumer purchasing and award winning psychologist Cecilia d’Felice discusses our airbrushed other self and the media’s Dorian Grey obsessions. PhotographerYves de Contades goes on a power trip in the City, shooting at Searcys Club on the 38th floor of the iconic Gherkin building.
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En
Wings of desire
Entrepreneur When did you start ConnectJets? ConnectJets was formally launched in June 2009. Where did you work before? My career in aviation began working alongside Sir Richard Branson when I joined the promotional team for Virgin Atlantic. I then went on to British Airways before leaving the commercial sector in 2006 for the business aviation world. My baptism in business aviation saw me start as a client relationship manager, working for one of the leading brands in business aviation and manufacturing - Bombardier Aerospace. This was followed by accepting a much coveted role as Vice President Sales for Vistajet international. My aviation career to date has embraced a broad spectrum of roles, starting from fleet/crew management, right through to service delivery at London Gatwick and then on to special services, client relationship management and sales. From where do you get your love of luxury travel and flying? Flying is pretty much in my DNA. Roy Somerville (my cousin) used to be a squadron leader of the Red Arrows, before he assumed the role of Chief Training Captain for Cathay Pacific. My father, who was a designer, was an enthusiast of aviation and carpentry, which resulted in the development and creation of a fleet of wooden aircraft at the Somerville household. The aircraft he made all had moving parts, such as rotors, wheels and stores ...I made my first runway when I was only four years old and experienced my first crash around five when I realised that my sister’s dolls house was too close to the approach path! Luxury and flying are synonymous, they are a natural partnership. Luxury is intrinsically woven into the fabric of flight; it welcomes the weary traveller into a new world of luxury and comfort experienced at high altitude... laced with indulgence. How do you balance work/life? Balance is an interesting word as the application of it is probably the hardest
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International Life’s Yves de Contades talks to ConnectJets inspirational founder and MD, Gabriella Somerville about her motivations, operating in the luxury sector and her thoughts on the future of business aviation part! Starting a business doesn’t happen overnight; there is an intense and steep curve for the first few months, but eventually when structures and processes are created, some semblance of balance returns. Business mentors are also valuable assets in helping to maintain a balanced perspective whilst looking out for any potential warning signs. How is your business structured? Being part of the Virgin Atlantic team during those embryonic days meant that I was fortunate enough to work under the guru himself - Sir Richard Branson. Graduating in the Branson School of Economics taught me to understand that to survive in a tough and competitive environment, one needed to start small, retain cash flow and reserve capital expenditure, whilst maximising every PR and marketing opportunity - the key to survival! These principles have served us well and now in our second year, we have been able to grow at a steady pace allowing us to develop a structured business model. Our company includes a fully-fledged flight services department with a strong sales and marketing team and a board of wonderful directors who provide dedicated leadership. What is special about ConnectJets? “A branding programme should be designed to differentiate your cow from all the other cattle on the range. Even if all the cattle on the range look pretty much alike.” This one quote sums up ConnectJets. Our aim has always been to be different and stand out from the crowd. Business aviation is a highly populated market that, at times, can be complicated and confusing for the consumer - simplicity is key. The client should understand what he/she is purchasing as business aviation is, after all, an important investment that
requires appropriate due diligence and consideration. ConnectJets maximise our customers’ buying power; to serve them and not the other way round. The vision of the ConnectJets team is to build a reliable, trustworthy brand that understands the market and all its inherent complexities. Knowledge is power; we endeavour to empower our clients to enable them to make the right choice, whether they are looking to book a one-off charter trip or are in the market to purchase a jet for ownership. With over 50 years’ collective experience, customers can call on our expertise for their powerful advantage. Brands are powerful for three reasons. They position their solutions in line with consumer requirements;they represent a platform of trust and engagement and must have a clear DNA. Branding is the stamp of excellence that qualifies the service or product. What has been your best move at the company? During a conversation with one of my clients a few years back, I asked him about the key elements for success. His response was not quite what I expected to hear; build the right team and make sure you have a process and structure in place. I have learnt that no matter how grand an idea you have or how wonderful your collateral looks, the key is people in ‘The Team’ and ‘The Company Structure’ ... they make or break any business. And your worst mistake? Trust is not a given and to a degree it has to be earned - being too trusting from the start was a hard lesson I had to learn. How is working in the luxury sector different to working in the mainstream? The luxury sector is extremely competitive; many brands are jostling in the same
entrepreneur
the key is in ‘The Team’ and The Company Structure’ ... the make or break of any business
patch which means you have to work a lot harder to make your brand stand out. The Luxury sector is a powerful industry and it requires a different set of engagement rules compared to the mainstream sector. That said, the creativity and innovation in the luxury division always amazes me; the appetite and enthusiasm within the industry is compelling and deeply engaging. What do you enjoy most about your work? Diversity - one day I will be meeting one of industries greatest movers and shakers for lunch and the next I am out viewing an aircraft getting covered in oil and grease. No two days are the same; both aircraft and people are my supreme passions so I consider myself to be very lucky indeed. Current trends in the industry? As an industry that has seen exponential growth since the migration of business aviation from the US in 2001, the consumer has been spoilt and indulged with a carte du jour of products and toys available for not just the jet aficionado but also for the newcomer too. Some of the trends include: private jet share - allowing people to travel to key trade shows/popular destinations privately;
offering key networking opportunities as well as comfort and timely arrival at a reduced price - comparative pricing to club in Europe. Lease opportunities have risen over the last year. The economic slowdown has increased the number of pre-owned aircraft available on the market and potential buyers see leasing as a viable opportunity outside of ownership. Less risk and initial outlay, but still offering all the benefits of owning your own aircraft. Empty legs, known outside the industry as last minute deals, are increasing in popularity. Operators have begun to sell positioning flights that otherwise would have remained empty. Certain key routes are extremely sought after by customers who have flexible schedules. They can present huge savings - almost half the price of a normal private jet charter. Business aviation is likely to continue to see steady growth over the next five years, with a number of low-cost opportunities such as Jet Taxi providing the SME or Corporate customer with attractive alternatives to the commercial hassle of business travel. Business aviation will undoubtedly become the new iPhone/ Blackberry of its time as it gives you control over your time and not the
other way round. Emerging markets, such as China and India, will also experience exponential growth in the future, once their infrastructures have been put in place. There is no doubt that business aviation is here to stay. What are your ambitions for the future? The continual maturity of the ConnectJets brand on the international stage. Maintaining and improving our service standards whilst using innovation to style and develop bespoke solutions that embody value and choice for the client. Recruiting individuals on our team who have the same energy and passion for aviation and people... growth is always welcome, for both the individual concerned and for the organisation as a whole. Corporate social responsibility is very much at the heart of ConnectJets. We support aviation charities who bring the joy of flight to children and adults with disabilities or life-threatening illnesses. Support of charitable concerns will continue to be part of our future CSR charter If not aviation, what would you be doing? Working for a charity, to be able to create change at any level is power... www.internationallife.tv/luxury
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Advertorial
GEVRIL PROUDLY CONTINUES HISTORIC WATCHMAKING WITH LUXURIOUS NEW AVENUE OF AMERICAS COLLECTION TIMEPIECES Avenue of America’s Serenade- 18K rose gold (also available in 18K white gold-100 pieces), Silvered Guilloched Dial, patented automatic movement with dual time and light zones, Louisiana Crocodile Leather band, limited edition of 50 pieces.
Legendary Swiss Watchmaker carries on fabled history with innovative modern day watches offering timeless beauty and uncompromising quality Tramelan, Switzerland - Spanning over the course of more than twelve generations of Swiss watchmakers dating as far back as 1507, Gevril proudly continues their commitment to the art of creating timeless beauty with their new limited-edition Avenue of Americas Collection. Now widely available in North America, the distinctive new watch collection continues Gevril’s legendary pursuit of quality craftsmanship with a history of horology as striking and colorful as their timepieces today. “As with all our modern-day Gevril timepieces, the Avenue of Americas Collection is a series of limited-edition watches with a retro-inspired look that immediately makes a bold statement for the wearer,” comments Gevril President Samuel Friedmann. “Above all, the goal with the new collection was to craft a series of timepieces conceived with the same integrity of design, quality material, and craftsmanship Gevril was founded on centuries ago.” The new Avenue of Americas Collection builds on centuries of expertise most notably demonstrated when Jacques Gevril was commissioned to produce a luxurious timepiece for the Spanish Crown in 1758. King Ferdinand V, known as “the Learned” by his subjects for his diverse intellectual pursuits and passionate collecting, invited young Gevril to Spain to present his majesty with an elegant, bespoke timepiece. Taking a now legendary journey through Madrid, the heralded watchmaker presented the king with such an astounding timepiece, Jacques Gevril was afterward appointed official watchmaker to the Spanish Crown. Ensuring the Gevril legacy for centuries to come with the royal accolade, generations of Gevril’s unflaggingly continued their ingenious pursuit of flawless timekeeping. The Gevril Family
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became synonymous with the finest Geneve watchmaking. Daniel Gevril was elected Mayor of Geneva in the 19th Century, and a street name was later dedicated to the family. Today, enthusiasts can pay homage to Gevril’s fabulous work by observing their various timepieces throughout the centuries on display in world-renowned horology showcases such as the Museum Geneve, Rolex, and Patek Phillipe Museums all located in Geneva, Switzerland. At the heart of the new Men’s Collection is the special Avenue of Americas Serenade edition, marked by distinctive silvered guillouched dials, a characteristic Jacques Gevril incorporated centuries ago into the creation of his marvelous timepieces. Imbued with exquisite detail, the new Serenade is outlaid with an 18K white gold case and bezel with a silver dial and numbers encased in an exclusive sapphire crystal. An 18K rose gold collection edition is graced with an elegant silver dial with rose gold numbering framed in a luxurious rose gold bezel encased in the same manner. Each Serenade timepiece is complemented by a handsome Louisiana crocodile leather band. Gevril is offering only 100 total Serenade timepieces, 50 count 18K White Gold Collection timepieces are available at $27,000 (U.S.) each. Additionally, 50 count 18K Rose Gold Collection Serenade timepieces are available for $25,000 (U.S.) each. About Gevril: Founded in 1758, Gevril is a Swiss manufacturer of handmade, limited edition, automatic timepieces with a rich history dating back over 250 years, when Jacques Gevril became the first Swiss Watch Exporter to the King of Spain in 1758. To receive more information, please visit Gevril’s new website www.gevril.com.
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En Entrepreneur
Samir Ceric, the driving force behind SaLon Contemporary talks to Peter Doherty about his vision for young artists, the importance of sticking to your guns and why the arts in the UK have a bright future
Where did the idea for SaLon Contemporary come from? Initially it was called SaLon Gallery when I first started out more than 5 years ago. I soon felt the ‘gallery’ word was far too limiting for what I wanted to do and achieve. I felt we were living in a very contemporary era full of contemporary things and I wanted this creative business
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of mine to portray that image. Art is a lot more than just a 2-d object you may or may not like. To me art is a conduit for many more things and for much more‌ It is a lifestyle and enjoying, purchasing and participating in the art arena (and when I say art I also refer to design, fashion, music, film), you are investing in your lifestyle. You are automatically richer
as a person. There are too many forms of art out there sneered at by the rigid establishment. I feel my role is to somehow change that, as well as initiate a mass art education for the benefit of the society we inhabit. Art has never been and should never be an exclusive thing. It should and ultimately will be for all. However in what dose you consume and enjoy it is another
entrepreneur
matter. Isn’t that the same with football, dancing, going out, reading? It is available to all of us which does not mean that all of us get to enjoy it, and it’s rarely to do with our financial status, more to do with our areas of interest. Art and artists have got a very important role to play in our society and I want to help ensure that they can live off their work. Hence SaLon Contemporary’s next big project is to become a ‘chief negotiator’ on behalf of the creative industry in relation to the business world that is currently spending $50billion on art related content. Your First Wednesdays concept of gathering Notting Hill’s creative spaces together to build a cultural hub and promote the exchange of ideas has been a great success against a free market culture of competition and individualism rather than co-operation and partnership. Why do you think this has worked so well? I must admit it has somewhat amazed me how ‘quickly’ people warmed to the idea. I remember trying to ‘mobilise’ local galleries a few years ago but nobody was interested. Then I thought, hang on a minute, we are in the middle of the biggest recession in the last 50+ years, surely that means that our businesses are not as busy as they used to be with more time on our plate. So why not join forces and create something exciting and interesting, something that is helpful and does not cost much, if at all? And in addition to that, why not expand it outside of the gallery world and introduce fashion, design,, music, film, food and drink, and create a cultural hub and destination spot so all these people that come all the way from other parts of London could have a great evening in our West London neighbourhood and go home invigorated and energised. I also knew that many businesses were struggling and I felt any united effort could provide that bit of hope and encouragement to keep them going. And that is something a lot more valuable than a sale or two. Hence the initiative is getting stronger and stronger and we should be reaching our 50 venues target for the December, Christmas edition. And that makes me very happy… Lastly, seeing how successful First Thursdays has been in the East I also felt that the Londoners could do with a monthly cultural fix, hence I think it is incredibly complimentary to what the Whitechapel Gallery has done in the past 4-5 years. I only hope they see it that way.
If all of us, and when I say that, I mean all the participating businesses, do our job properly, you will see First Wednesdays becoming a destination hot spot for international travellers, featuring in all important in-flight magazines, black books and various guides. Who knows, we may start spreading across Mayfair, Knightsbridge and Chelsea any time soon as we are already being approached by both art and fashion venues regarding the launch in W1. Vivienne Westwood tried some years ago to re-introduce the idea of ‘Salons’ in keeping with the traditions of 17th and 18th century France, where the intelligensia met to exchange ideas. Would you say the ethos of SaLon Contemporary and initiatives like First Wednesdays hark back to that in some way? That is exactly where the SaLon name came from as that was one of the main inspirations behind it. When we started out 5 years ago, we used to host film screenings, theatre plays, live bands and DJ’s, poetry evenings, talks and other forms of art entertainment. However the struggle to obtain the premises licence was too much, hence a year later I converted the space into a contemporary art gallery but kept in line with my initial idea. Hence now it is all introduced via art concepts rather than isolated examples for which we don’t need a licence… For me, your reputation has been cemented by nurturing young artists. There is a real bravery about that, because effectively you’re taking a chance on an unknown. Everyone can remember that person who unlocked the door and gave them that first chance. You get to play ‘fairy godmother’ all the time. That must excite you? Absolutely. I wouldn’t like to do it any other way… There is so much adrenaline and excitement discovering, nurturing and mentoring young talent, it goes way beyond making money. If I was interested in making money, I would have stayed in the City. However having the business background is incredibly crucial for a success of any creative business and that includes artists and designers I work with. Because they don’t have that side in their equation. Sure, the risks are a lot higher than promoting and placing the works of very established artists but the thrill I get from placing a work of a recent graduate in an incredibly powerful
private collection full of the Old & New Masters is something totally out of this world. And when you see them enter their first museum show coupled by entering a permanent museum collection, you just want to jump with joy. You’re from the former Yugoslavia. Do you feel your experiences during the Balkans conflict in some way helped shape your character and pathway to a career in the art world? Absolutely yes in terms of shaping my character, not so much in the art world, but in my career as a whole. As a Bosnian aristocrat whose titles were stripped post World War II, along with private land and possessions, I was already prepared for exile as my parents and grandparents already felt exiled in their own land. Hence the persecution that took place in Bosnia and the ex-Yugoslavia resulted in me leaving and growing up very fast at the age of 18. It was character building and helped me find my mission in life. The art world, (like the creative industry) needed a launch pad for young talent and that drives me, as does building a very strong brand with defined ethos and philosophy. My wife, Zoe Knight, (an established fashion designer) and I co-founded another launch pad for fashion and design called Wolf & Badger, which ended up becoming an over night success and included scouting, mentoring and guiding the young and semi established talent in the industry, winning us a prestigious Walpole Brand of Tomorrow Award, because people ‘bought into us’ and what we stood for. I remember presenting the concept to the designers in August and September last year in my gallery space, talking about this, at the time, non-existent shop where they would sell their wares, if picked by us, and they were happily leaving hundreds of pounds of deposits each, which is a testament to our passion and mission. There are loads of interesting businesses out there but run by the wrong types or the types whose motives and agendas are somewhat questionable. They often, sooner or later, disappear from the scene. And rightly so. There is plenty of money around for the right people and right projects. You just need to identify it. What advice do you have for young artists who want to establish themselves? They have got to forget about overnight success and being demoralised seeing their contemporaries ‘succeeding’ already. >> www.internationallife.tv/business
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It takes 10-20 years to become an overnight success
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>> It takes 10-20 years to become an overnight success. They need to keep on going and never give up, providing they talented, hard Entrepreneur are working and want to succeed. It is not dissimilar in banking or law, it takes you 5-10 years to become a director or partner of the firm and art, fashion and design are no exception. They must all be in the know, follow trends, read a lot, socialise and network a lot. You must go to gallery openings and talk to gallerists, curators and other art professionals. Nobody else will do it for you. People outside of the art world often struggle when confronted with contemporary art. Galleries can help build bridges, though few actually leave their elitist comfort zones. Discuss... Partly true. The art world is undergoing a massive transformation. That is why we are seeing more project spaces, artist run spaces, young galleries opening and working hard at bringing down these barriers. Galleries are popping up in every corner of the world which is a new phenomenon. And the globalisation of trade and the importance of the Internet will once and for all ‘destroy’ the elitism that’s existed in the art word for centuries. And that, in return, will ensure more creative businesses including artists will not only survive but also be able to live off their work comfortably. Art is more than a painting or sculpture. A creative idea is also part of the artist’s IP which can be sold to another creative business; artists can teach a senior executive of major business how to look at a problem in a different way and offer a solution… You’re married to Zoe Knight, who you’ve helped establish the successful Wolf & Badger, showcasing designers work. How do you work together? I think we are a great team, always trying to play to our strengths but in the process learn from each other too. I learnt a great deal about the fashion business from Zoe who not only worked with the super brands such as Chloe, Jimmy Choo and Anya Hindmarch, but also ran her own luxury handbag business for a few years stocking in the most prestigious boutiques and department stores all over the world.
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Her inside knowledge in the fashion world is second to none, which is has made Wolf & Badger what it is today, an over-night success and the industry’s favourite indie. We’ve thoroughly enjoyed the journey, bouncing off each other, brainstorming a great deal and are incredibly passionate about the cause. It’s been a true pleasure doing it together… Many were warning us of the risks associated with working together however we knew that we needed to find the formula that would work for us. The key to that was to have separate offices so we can get on with our individual tasks too… You’re both flamboyant characters. Your magenta suit and dickie bow combo is quite a statement in itself and Zoe cuts quite a striking figure with her glamorous and contemporary wardrobe. Some wag comented ‘they look like the Posh & Becks of Art’. Have you always been so extrovert? Yes and No, mostly Yes. It was pretty ‘bad’ in Italy when I was spending my rent money on a flamboyant wardrobe. It also depended on who I was surrounded by at the time. Some people were putting a lot of pressure on me to change and tone it down, be it ex-girlfriends or ex-business partners. However Zoe is completely opposite and I love her for that, amongst many other reasons. She brings that side out in me even more and always encourages me to go for it. Often she is the one that picks the wardrobe. It is so great being married to such a stylish and fashion aware person. I could not have asked for a better match and more beautiful and caring wife… I feel truly blessed and you can see that in our 18-month old daughter Farrah who is slowly but surely creating her own style and picking her own wardrobe! Do you have a simple philosophy? What goes around, comes around; persist until you prevail; never give up; are some of the mottos that are part of me… Very often young entrepreneurs see money as the ‘be all’. How important is it that you love what you do? And do you think your success is a bi-product of that passion? I could not agree with you more. If you are not passionate about what you do, don’t do it. I hear and see people saying to me: but that idea and business model will make a killing. However you can see that they are trying to do it just because they want
to make money. And you can probably make some money from time to time with that approach but that is ultimately wrong and you will never make a big success out of a business unless you are passionate about it. Because every business has ups and downs, highs and lows, and if you hit that road and you are not passionate about it, you are likely to give up more easily. I’ve been working 6.5 days a week on average for the last 10+ years and I never checked my watch. Actually I got rid of the watch as I no longer needed it. Where would you like to see SaLon Contemporary in five years time? As a global brand with stand alone locations such as NY, Shanghai and Beijing, Moscow, Delhi, fulfilling my next important call of the creative industry’s ‘chief negotiator’ and creating the most amazing art/fashion/design events all over the world on behalf of some of the biggest brands in the world. What advice do you have for entrepreneurs starting out with their big idea? Go for it but do your homework first; you must have a sound business plan; you must check out your competition; but most important you must get going on it. Ignore the cynics. ‘Get rid off them’ and surround yourself with those who want you to succeed. I had to let go of many friends and some family members to be where I am today and however hard and harsh that might sound, you’ll have to upgrade your social and business circles if you are to succeed big. Otherwise you’ll always be a small fish in a big pond, and that is providing you get going…. Most people never do and get put off at the first hurdle. And last but not least, be careful ‘who you get in bed with’ when it comes to choosing your business partners and investors. Have all the agreements in writing including the shareholders agreement. You’ll be surprised how so called friends and business partners get greedy and become nasty, with an intent to drive you out when it suits them. So remain in control of your business, at least as a 50% shareholder when you are starting out, and remember what I said earlier on: ‘There is plenty of money around for the right people and right project. You just have to identify it.’ Zoe and I are currently identifying investors for our next venture in 2011, so I am talking with hindsight… and most importantly enjoy the journey. It is the journey that matters, not the destination!
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The 10 Commandments of buying a Luxury Handbag
Quentin Mackay, former Creative Director of Samsonite and founder and driving force behind his own self titled luxury goods brand imparts expert advice on purchasing luxury handbags
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ear Madam. Have you ever stopped to consider exactly what your handbag is to you and what it says about you as an individual. Are you a curator, an individual shepherdess of style, who is strong-minded and enjoys admiration from others for being a forward thinker? Or are you one who prefers to shuffle with the fashion flock? Your handbag is your most valuable daily possession, it is your portable jewellery box, your safe, your mobile PA and your closest ally. It contains your identity, your look, your work, your connection to the world. A handbag is a purchase that should be computed accurately according to your individual needs, it should be made with conscious considerations, by asking a few appropriate questions that will guide you into making a more precise and educated choice with the understanding of the quality and function of the product you are considering embracing and carrying with you daily. Luxury handbags. Don’t be fooled and assume that bigger is better and that established brands are offering you the best, in fact, this is more often than not far from the truth and long term customer satisfaction is the least of their considerations over EBIDTA and keeping the shareholders happy. Take into consideration what I call the basic 10 Commandments of buying a Luxury handbag and next time you decide to purchase a handbag, present these questions to the
bottom left CC Holder black crocodile. below right iphone case bronze lizard by Quentin Mackay
helpful sales assistant. The sales person in a handbag area in a department store should competently answers the majority of these if they are conscientious and the brand has given staff training, and a sales person in a directly operated brand store should certainly know all of the answers and more. Love at First sight. The first Commandment is the most obvious one. The handbag you are looking to purchase should have immediately emotionally engaged you, is price a factor or are you simply ‘in love’ with this bag and you must have it, well read on, and consider the 10 Commandments that will educate you to the quality of said item. Will this bag make you look fabulous, will it last, will it serve and protect you and your possessions? A handbag purchase is an instinctual connection and an act of heartfelt passion, but intelligence can also play a sensible part in your decision. Were you coerced by big (smoke and mirrors) advertising, by your social group choices or are you
an individual that enjoys unique pedigree values. These values should make you feel that beyond the handbag of choice aesthetics, it will promote you as a person, help you with organisation and security and all other details beneath the surface are joyous complimentary discoveries. Leather. The second Commandment concerns the body of the handbag. Look and touch the leather, it is the same as the bodywork of your car or the walls of your house, it should last, it should be regular (unless patterned) and it should be delicious to touch. Leather is graded on several qualities, its colour consistency, its surface coherence and its ‘recovery’. The recovery is, if the leather is ‘scrunched up’ it should recover well immediately afterwards without any >> www.internationallife.tv/luxury
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The 10 Commandments of buying a Luxury Handbag left Delphine bamboo gold below left Persia Mini GT python aquarel both by Quentin Mackay
Luxury >> creases (soft leather primarily). Don’t be fooled by patterned or patented leathers, look closer at their surfaces, many times low-grade leathers are ‘disguised’ with these treatments to cut costs. If the bag has straps or visible bits of the back of the leather, check the edges of the straps and handles, if they are hairy this means the leather is of a low grade and ‘fleshy’, probably from an older cow, premium leathers are from young cows that are nice and tight on both sides, with a superior recovery. More importantly, if there is any back of leather visible then consider that a genuine Luxury house will always self back and finish leather components precisely and neatly. The grading of leather has several factors and one of these is its geographic origin, considering climate, diet and lifestyle. Grades range from lower qualities from India, China and the sub continents to the best from Northern Europe and Scandinavia where barbed wire fences
Luxury bags generally revolve around five precious metal plating’s with 70-90% content of said metal. Gold, dark yellow to light yellow in colour, Palladium, light silver in colour, Ruthenium, a dark grey for a gun metal finish, Rhodium, for a rose coloured finish and in extreme Premium goods Platinum plating, a white silver finish. In the 1980s Plating was applied at a 3 Micron layer (1 micron is equivalent to 1000th of a mm) and 3 microns is officially gold plated, today brands use 0.5 micron or ‘flash’ dipped plating because of the market price of gold and the zealous margin increases. This slim plating dramatically reduces the ‘rub off time’ of the plating on the components.
it is promoted as an innovative lightweight exercise. Quality does equal weight, hence the saying you get what you pay for, so consider this a positive and not a negative (within reason). Functioning details. Look at the straps, handles, zips, lines and details on the bag, have these been thought through carefully? Contrary to widespread belief a designer doesn’t simply pull an idea out of the air and a bag is not made quickly and easily, at least at the Luxury level. A designer and product manager will think meticulously about the balance of the details, the lines and the proportions. They will consider the appropriateness and usage of the materials and functions within the context of the style. The concept will then go into several sampling exercises to refine and perfect the combination and balance of
What is the lining of the bag? this is one of the true indicators of Luxury are not used and diets and more consistent. Hardware. If you are planning on buying a handbag take a small magnet with you. When you find the bag you love hold the magnet to the hardware, if the magnet clips to the hardware it is plated Zinc alloy, if it doesn’t it is plated brass, this is the only choice of base metal used in Luxury since its conception. No Luxury house with any pride will use Zinc alloy as a base for hardware. Zinc alloy doesn’t mould as precisely, plate as well, or last as long as brass, it is crude, brittle and corrodes. What is the plating on the hardware?
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The differentiator between a low, mid, even some high end and a Luxury brand of today is that the former three are buying less and less into unique house hardware for the sake of growing margin expansion, a Luxury brand hopefully realises the importance of this differing element. Quality vs Weight. The fourth commandment is a highly debated ratio in product creation, the quality versus weight factor. There is still a value and understanding that weight in Luxury equals quality, the plain and simple fact is that a luxury bag that is graced with premium leathers and or materials, precious metal hardware and well thought through details and user functions will have a certain amount of weight over and beyond a cheap counterpart, just as with any product category. It is a psychological exercise, if you pick an item up and it weighs very little, one assumes it must be ‘cheap’ unless
all of these elements. Did they take into their consideration how you would like to wear, open and use this bag? Does the strap/handle go over your shoulder? Is the strap/handle comfortable on your shoulder or in your hand? Does the zip open and close easily? There are only three zips a Luxury brand will consider using due to their quality, reliability and ease of use, these characteristics include the materials, the teeth alignment and performance in the carriage, the ribbon tape quality and the bonding of the two together, the three preferred zips are RiRi, YKK, Lanfranchi and for decoration they might delve into Swarovski zips. Remember you will open and close this zip hundreds of times in its life so it has to perform well. Internal details and organisation. The interior is your kingdom that holds and protects your valuable possessions. It is a personal preference whether you choose
luxury below Jeannie woven buffalo burgundy below left Cancan Both bottom left Daphne Swarovski Volcano all by Quentin Mackay
a soft bag or a structured bag but one of the many positives of a structured bag is that what you put inside stays where you put it and the handbag contents remain easily at hand and not in a jumble. What is the lining of the bag? This is one of the true indicators of Luxury. If it is leather or suede lined you are in the top echelon of product, a nice tactile fabric is acceptable but beware of cheap fabrics, your touch will judge this well. Try and choose a bag with a light coloured lining, you will be surprised and pleased the difference and ease it will provide in finding your possessions as opposed to hunting in a dark lining. Does the bag have a secure
zip pocket for your purse, slip pockets for your telephone and PDA or two for both? Some bags come with a key clip or leash that you can run your hand along to find your keys easily, others have extended this to create a clever security leash for your bag, anchoring it when you are eating out. Fine detailing, finishing and handmade irregularities. This is one of the most precise factors in the design and
manufacturing process of a handbag. Some elements are the most misunderstood but they are in fact the true essence of handmade Luxury and you should pay attention to these. All of the hardware of a Luxury house should bear its logo, internal pockets are generally bound at the top in the same leather or the external leather to prevent stretching. Look at the stitching lines and the colour staining on the raw edges of the leather. Do not dismiss the bag if some of the stitch lines are irregular or some of the painted edges are a little squiffy (within reason). The hand is and never will be as precise as the machine and this many consider symbolises the true charm of a hand crafted item. The seams of the bag should be flat because with a turned handbag a craftsperson will hammer, sometimes glue and shape the bag once it has been turned in on itself following stitching. Are there threads hanging loose? Threads, both inside and outside should have been knotted, glued and pushed into the seam with a braddle rendering them invisible. Packaging. A luxury brand will promote the excellence of its product and brand philosophy by giving you a full package. Your Luxury handbag should be filled with either tissue paper or plastic air sacs. The handbag should come in a cloth bag, a Luxury brand will give a nice tactile fabric, a cotton, a suedette or similar.
Many aspirational brands provide cheap spun polyester bags, this is a real cost cutting exercise. Once the handbag is inside its care bag it should be housed in a box and securely packed with tissue paper and the box then closed shut with a ribbon, this is then all placed in a nice branded carrier bag. Please note, the majority of this is when purchasing from a directly operated brand store or concession, a department store will only allow its own packaging. Above and beyond the call of others. Some true Luxury brands go the extra mile to indicate to you that you are buying an item that they consider unique and special. These can arrive in the form of individual numbering, authenticity cards possibly with matching number, a device of authenticity to try and counteract the many counterfeit goods that we witness on many arms today, this can be a hologram, a QR code or other. Ask the sales person about the guarantee of the handbag, a Luxury bag should provide at the very least a free one year manufacturing fault service and an easy accident repair service with a reasonable turn around time Bespoke. This final maverick Commandment is not a Luxury brand obligation but many offer it and it does present a wider access into personal style at a Luxury level. A bespoke service is the most difficult exercise to operate in handbags and consumer goods and it is only the well managed and prestige brands that can operate a fluid and positive Bespoke service. www.internationallife.tv/luxury
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The World’s finest board games handmade in the UK
Geoffrey Parker Games based in the quaint Essex village of Wimbish have been designing and hand crafting traditional board games since 1938. The quality of their craftsmanship, high production values and timeless simplicity of their games and bespoke creations have fostered an enduring following that includes royalty, motor racing moguls and Hollywood movie stars
unique Geoffrey Parker are certainly one of the UK’s best kept secrets and produce all their luxury products by hand from their legendary country workshops at Piglet’s Corner. A rarity in the UK. Maintaining the exemplary standards of the master craftsman, they offer customers a unique and personalised service. Years of designing and creating custom products for the World’s luxury stores, casinos, corporations and private commissions has given them a unique insight into the constantly changing world of design.
THE FINEST GIFTS TO GO You can skip the wait and opt for the affordable luxury, ‘Off the bench’ range. There’s an exciting and beautifully crafted range of games with an extremely, competitive price point.
historic moments The legendary ‘cold war’ World Chess Championship in Reykjavik in 1972 between Bobby Fischer and Boris Spassky was played out under the glare of the world’s media... on a Geoffrey Parker chess board, of course. While for Backgammon, the Company’s expertise was required for what is widely recognsed as the first World Backgammon Championship sponsored by Rothman, which took place on the fabulous QEII, sailing for a week between Southampton and New York with the world’s best players going head to head.
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With over 50 years of producing the World’s finest Games and Gifts within their Bespoke collection under their belt, Geoffrey Parker’s stunning range includes Backgammons, Traditional Board Games, Parlour Games, Travel Games, Games Compendia and Gifts. This collection is limited to a set range of colourways and designs but unlike the Bespoke range which has to be made to order, the “Off the Bench” items are available (subject to availability) for customers to purchase straight away.
CLASSICS:
include, Mah Jong / Monopoly® / Trivial Pursuit® / Cluedo® / Frisbee.® Compedia: Ultimate Game Table / 33 Contemporary Game Table / Casino Games Compendium
specialist
THE CORE
All design work is undertaken “in house”, which is turned into the most amazing and unique item of its kind in the World. Their team often work “hand in glove” with customers, then the finished piece is skillfully produced on the accomplished benches of their master craftsmen.
QUALITY COUNTS leather skins range from Dauphin calf leathers to exotic hides such as Alligator, Ostrich, Shagreen and Water snake.
CLIENTS
WHO HAVE COMMISSIONED SPECIALIST GAMES include Asprey, Dunhill, Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Garrard, Simpson’s, Smythson, Cartier, Fred. Even a “blind” backgammon was made for Stevie Wonder.
THE EXTRAVAGANT They produced the World’s most expensive Monopoly®, encrusted in jewels, bound in exotic Alligator and inlaid in precious metals and a special solid gold and Diamond Backgammon for a private jet
No.1
in the world for luxury board games
FASCINATING
PROJECTS
Made a facsimile of George Washington’s campaign briefcase for the Smithsonian Institute in DC. A casket for the regalia of an ancient London Livery Company. 8 full cow hides for the Royal Academy to a special photograph album for Her Majesty The Queen.
AND LONDON’s FAMOUS GAMING HOUSES
from “soft gaming”to VIP/high roller gift giving for world’s oldest gaming club Crockfords plusThe Ritz, Aspinalls, Les Ambassadeurs.
HIGHLY SkillED
They developed the famous weighted leather backgammon stone with world champion Paul Magriel, perfecting a balanced playing piece of leather artistry, utilizing the ancient skill of fine edging, burnishing and papier mâché and then repeating this 30 times per set! for full details of games and services visit www.geoffreyparker.com
BESPOKE SUPER LUXURY Formula One™ and its teams ordered items made in super-car leathers as did former World Champion, Michael Schumacher to send as gifts. Super and giga-yacht owners commission games for their luxurious salons. Geoffrey Parker’s award winning 25 Game Cube is a particular favourite www.internationallife.tv/luxury
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the height of luxury
fashion
There are few vantage points in London as spectacular as Searcys Club on the 38th floor of the celebrated Gherkin building. It’s a breathtaking 360° panorama taking in old and new London - spying the city’s life-blood, snaking effortlessly through the landscape. Photographer Yves de Contades captures the drama.
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When you look at a city, it’s like reading the hopes, aspirations and pride of everyone who built it. Hugh Newell Jacobsen
fashion
left hand page White shirt by Amaka Blue shift dress by Deploy Shoes with buckles by Gil Carvalho Silver stacking bracelets by Emily Thatcher Silver and diamond watch by Chopard Photographed by Yves de Contades
this page Jacket by Pal Zileri Check shirt by Jaeger Black and White trousers by Fake London Brown Brogues by Beatrix Ong Watch by Simon Carter Photographed by Yves de Contades
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fashion
Green shirt by Hentsch Man Check tie by DS Dundee Check blazer by DS Dundee Photographed by Yves de Contades
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I’m leaving because the weather is too good. I hate London when it’s not raining. Groucho Marx
fashion
Circle tweed coat by Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Dress (just seen) by Farhi by Nicole Farhi Shoes by Beatrix Ong Rings by Emily Thatcher Photographed by Yves de Contades
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fashion
Brown cashmere coat by Wooyoungmi Grey trousers by Fake London White shirt by Emma Willis Black brogues by Paul Smith Shoes Large faced watch by Chopard Photographed by Yves de Contades
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Beige coat by Deploy Grey tweed dress (just seen) by Paul Smith Black Chain necklace by Raris Red Bag by Lulu Guinness Grey slingback shoes by Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Photographed by Yves de Contades
A city is the pulsating product of the human hand and mind, reflecting man’s history, his struggle for freedom, creativity, genius-and his selfishness and errors. Charles Abrams
fashion
Green suede jacket by Anya Wilkinson Grey top by Nancy Van Ostren Jewellery by Raris Tartan skirt by Anya Wilkinson Red “Donna” shoes by Gil Carvalho Photographed by Yves de Contades
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fashion
International Life Fashion Team Hair and Makeup: Andrew McCalla with Dermalogica skin care Stylist: Sara Darling Models from MandP Wesley Martha K Photographed by Yves de Contades Photographic Assistant James Nixon Art Director Peter Doherty Location: Searcys Club, 38th floor Gherkin Building, London Stockists DS Dundee www.dsdundee.com Hentsch Man www.hentschman.com Emily Thatcher www.emilythatcher.co.uk Beatrix Ong T: +44 (0)20 7518 0680 Fahri by Nicole Fahri www.mywardrobe.com Vivienne Westwood Anglomania www.mywardrobe.com Chopard 12 New Bond Street London W1 Paul Smith Shoes www.mywardrobe.com Pal Zileri 125, New Bond Street W1 Jaeger 200-206 Regent Street London W1 Fake London www.fakelondon.com Simon Carter www.mywardrobe.com Hugo Boss Black www.mywardrobe.com Deploy T/F: +44 (0) 20 7935 2613 Gil Carvalho www.gilcarvalho.com Lulu Guinness www.mywardrobe.com Wooyoungmi www.selfridges.com Anya Wilkinson T: 0208 697 2858 Charcoal pinstripe jacket by Hugo Boss Black Dogtooth stripe shirt by Hentsch Man Watch by Bell & Ross Photographed by Yves de Contades
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Raris www.raris.it Nancy Van Ostren T: 020 7841 7131 www.mysugarland.co.uk
psychology
Challengingfake Psychologist Cecilia d’Felice discusses the ‘pattern that seems to be emerging in some parts of our media that normal ageing is now deemed a crime against humanity’
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Anything that takes us away from the real deal is not our friend. The more we live life in the moment with mindful awareness, the more our lives are enriched by engaging with the truth and beauty of what is real. Cecilia d’felice
ur personal developmental journey is being negated in a flurry of airbrushing. The central message appears to insist that we are not ‘allowed’ to grow older, as if there is something repellent about the natural lifecycle that those of us lucky enough to still be here inhabit. While we know we are being fed a lie it seems hard to know how to resist it. A generation of young women could grow up never seeing an ageing role model portrayed authentically. If we are to reclaim our wisdom, surely it starts with being able to age gracefully? The advantages are numerous in abandoning the desperate denial that the inevitable will occur. Immediately we break this suffocating effort, we free up all that energy wasted on a struggle with time that we will never win. Then we start to feel what freedom really feels like. The freedom to be ourselves just as we are. This is also called acceptance. Acceptance, however, does not mean we stop caring about ourselves. If anything, because we are not relying on something synthetic to save us, we are much more likely to take care of the perfect body we were given originally. We may need to work a bit harder, naturally, but as it is all our own creation our efforts become a wonderfully motivating place to be. We also stop worrying, because while trying to prevent the Canute like wave of time, anxiety rises exponentially with every year. Another huge advantage to challenging fake is that we age with a dignity that is compassionate and understanding. We age with our peers, joining a cohort that celebrate the same milestones as us, remember the same seminal events and have
a fascinating history to share. If we reside in ‘pretend mode’ for our middle years, we miss out on our authentic experience grounding us in our potential, which by no longer being thwarted with ‘if onlys’ becomes focused and energised instead. Understanding ourselves as people who actively want to engage with times distinct relativity, we begin to see that a more aware relationship with the finite composition of our lives prevents the most regretted life experience of all, ‘wasted time’. We start to realise that this complex construct can become our friend, not our enemy, as we identify our goals and how we are going to pursue them. In other words, we no longer put off what we really want to do, because we realise that the time is now. We all know that we need to do this thing call life more skilfully if we are to more than just survive. Anything that takes us away from the real deal is not our friend. The more we live life in the moment with mindful awareness, the more our lives are enriched by engaging with the truth and beauty of what is real. Living a healthier, more balanced life can start now. Anyone trying to sell us something fake, we can immediately reject. We are better than that. We have more wisdom. Any advert that is airbrushed, ignore: they are not showing us respect. These peddlers of untruths appear to consider us to be narcissistically naïve fools and seem only too glad to make us feel anxious about ourselves in order to exploit us. Let us certainly not reward them with our hard won money and most of all, our precious time. In this way, perhaps the media will understand that we choose only to respond to images that reflect our shared reality and celebrate us in all our glory. Let the Photoshop pogrom begin: it’s time to challenge fake. 21 Days to a New You (Orion) Cecilia d’Felice out in January 2011 www.internationallife.tv/psychology
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psychology
Laid bare
How do we see ourselves and what does it say about us? We asked the top creatives to pick their ultimate portrait to be shot by top photographer Yves de Contades on the Leica S2 and then leading psychologist and TV broadcaster Dr Cecilia d’Felice examined their choices with some fascinating results.
Does he derive a secret pleasure in his masochism, we wonder, as he applies probes to his abdomen? Dr. Cecilia D’Felice Steve Vranakis, CD, VCCP Spilling his guts for creativity. Dr Cecilia d’Felice This portrait has a curiously haunting religious quality about it. Is it the confusion of pipes, wires, tubes, tape, sadistic looking tools and screws redolent of some hideous torture that worries us? Or is it the intense look on the face of the subject, Steve Vranakis? His gaze is Mona Lisa enigmatic. Does he derive a secret pleasure in his masochism, we wonder, as he applies probes to his abdomen? That mess of creative application evacuating from his very core… out of destruction comes creation… but we are forced to ask, at what cost? The industrial quality of his innards with its three bulbs (Father, Son and Holy Ghost, but also a play on ‘lights’ an old word for vital organs) reflects a desire to create order out of chaos. But very much in his own image. In technology he trusts. We may suspect that he revels in his devotion to his creativity and detect an obsessionality in his compulsion to create. Yet we don’t really know the truth. There is serenity in his gaze that defies his suffering like some latter day martyr. What we do know is that this is a man of humourous wit. Amusingly self-deprecating while challenging our ideas of what it is we really carry inside, he is also confidently intelligent with a sensuality playing around his mouth that is intriguing. A man taking himself apart and putting himself back together.
Photographed by Yves de Contades
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psychology
Photographed by Yves de Contades
The grey on grey tones with the lifting effect of white suggests a woman of serious pursuit, of elegance and wit, of curiosity and obsession to detail. Dr. Cecilia D’Felice Suzanne Dean, CD, Random House Rodchenko wrote: “One has to take several different shots of a subject, from different points of view and in different situations, as if one examined it in the round rather than looked through the same key-hole again and again.” I took inspiration from my love of Rodchenko’s innovative, graphic photographs. I wanted a portrait that was both simple and complex at the same time. That incorporated his use of contrast and experimental perspective. With that in mind, I placed myself within, The Stairs, 1930. To be playful, I too wore
stripes, I would echo the bold stripes of the steps. I also incorporated the original Rodchenko photograph into the portrait, by holding a book that had The Stairs wrapped round it.
lifting effect of white suggests a woman of serious pursuit, of elegance and wit, of curiosity and obsession to detail. A woman not afraid of her femininity while not using it to flatter or deceive. Slightly shy, not wanting to impose herself on the Dr Cecilia d’Felice world, more obliquely engaged, left field Suzanne Dean’s portrait feels saturated and subtle. Looking upwards suggests with intelligent acuity. From the long steps seeing the bigger picture and being acutely of learning leading up to a university, or aware of our relative insignificance. It also court house - any place of intellectual points to someone who actively seeks out authority - paralleling the stripes in knowledge and inspiration, who dreams Suzanne’s dress and in the book she is creatively. A portrait of great depth and holding, the portrait gives a sense of playful wisdom, a woman one would want to talk gravity. The grey on grey tones with the to, to learn from. www.internationallife.tv/fantasy-portraits
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psychology
Dave Stansbie, CD, The Creative Corporation Like most young lads, I dreamt of one day becoming a Spaceman. Little did I know my first chance would arise landing in the middle of one of the busiest junctions on London’s streets. ‘We can continue to try and clean up the gutters all over the world and spend all of our resources looking at just the dirty spots and trying to make them clean. Or we can lift our eyes up and look into the skies and move forward in an evolutionary way’ Buzz Aldrin 1964. Dr Cecilia d’Felice This wonderful portrait evokes innovation, breakthrough, limitless exploration and universal wonder. Dave ‘Spaceman’ Stansbie parts a sea of traffic bringing London to a standstill around him. His trajectory is clearly destined for the heavens and yet he stands before us, like an enormous Michelin man, commanding our attention and making us think. Has he lost his spaceship? Is he an alien? Should he be piloting the shuttle? Where is the rest of his crew? Are those scrambled messages from the mother ship behind him? But there are no answers, just a sense of marvelous humour, as his boyhood fantasy is made real. Dave reminds us that our dreams belong to us and we are never too old to realise them. This sentiment is essential in a creative life. Without the dream there is no idea and without the idea the concept does not take flight. Dreams begin and end us and as Keats so wisely said, ‘In dreams begin responsibility’. Dave’s portrait is not just a big kid in a spacesuit. He reminds us that we can all dream and our dreams do not have to elude us. If we invest wisely, if we take risks, if we challenge our limitations we too can stop the traffic and reach for the stars. Photographed by Yves de Contades
Has he lost his spaceship? Is he an alien? Should he be piloting the shuttle? Where is the rest of his crew? Are those scrambled messages from the mother ship behind him? But there are no answers, just a sense of marvelous humour, as his boyhood fantasy is made real. Dr. Cecilia D’Felice
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psychology
With thanks to Jennie Lam: Make Up, Franco Vallelonga: Hair Stylist, Photographed by Yves de Contades and thanks also to The Worx Genesis Imaging, Stanleys Post and photography assistant James Nixon
The elegant up-do, smoky eyes and snake like cables coiled heavily around her feet and - provocatively - her neck, hint at a smoky sexuality that insinuates danger. Dr. Cecilia D’Felice Jaime McLennan, Associate CD, Tribal DDB London You can never plan the future by the past. Edmund Burke Dr Cecilia d’Felice Jaime McLennan’s portrait is sensually intriguing, suggesting as it does a bound up-ness that immediately asks us to question why? Why does this young woman require to be constrained so explicitly? Is there a need to be tethered to
the ground for fear of flying uncontrollably upwards where she gazes with such longing? Is she transfixed by conflict that she cannot speak of? Is there a repression of desire that insists on her coercion to remain unfree? Her intimate connection with the copper cables create an almost cyborg quality. External veins carry energy from her body to the world beyond where she and technology become one. The elegant up-do, smoky eyes and snake like cables coiled
heavily around her feet and - provocatively - her neck, hint at a smoky sexuality that insinuates danger. Although seemingly suspended she is less puppet on a string, more Coppellia. The diabolical inventor that is technology essentially hers to manipulate - all around at her feet - her upward gaze seeking out the star that is rightfully hers. This is a woman who clearly takes risks, whose cool elegance belies a passionate fire hinted at in the red stripe of her feminine yet understated dress. www.internationallife.tv/fantasy-portraits
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tech / gadgets Aurumania Gold Bike Is this the most expensive bicycle in the world? Aurumania’s Gold Bike Crystal Edition has every visible surface plated with 24 carat gold and a handsome smattering of 600 Swarovski sparkles. Upon purchase it will delivered to you anywhere in the world. Go on, do your bit for the environment. €80,000 - aurumania.com
Snyper One Watch The perfect timepiece for fans of large-faced watches; the sleek, matt-black steel case measures in at 44mm. The time-adjustment crown appears to be inspired by a snipergun sight whilst the chronograph controls resemble triggers. The rubber bracelet underlines the overall military feel of this Swiss instrument. Note: Close-up of face featured here £6450 - frostoflondon.com
BeoTime Alarm Clock Designer, Steffen Schmelling, looked for things that inspired him to a great waking-up experience. He thought of Mozart’s The Magic Flute; a musical story, where light defeats dark. Wake up to the sound of BeoTime’s discreet chime, or add the sound of your favourite TV programme, radio station, or piece of music. £300 - bang-olufsen.com/beotime Versace Mobile Phone Versace Unique offers a fullfeatured multimedia creation. This luxury mobile phone unites all the functions of professional and personal communication tool with Versace’s trademark style - 3G network, client e-mail, media player, camera and netbook wrapped up in hand-assembled opulence. £4,800 - frostoflondon.com Leica Titanium Camera The special edition Leica M9 Titanium is the result of a collaboration with Walter de Silva, the chief designer of the Volkswagen Group. The camera also comes with a distinctive shoulder holster, a carrying strap and finger loops in two different sizes, made from the same Audi leather used on the camera body. £19,800 - leica-storemayfair.co.uk
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FACTOR
Ciclotte Exercise Bike Style, performance and state-of-the-art technology. The Ciclotte claims to redefine the traditional role of the exercise bike. Inspired by ergonomics and with style at its heart, Ciclotte is designed to complement a contemporary space be it outside, or in an office or home. £6,800 Available in Carbon, Silver and Purple ciclotte.com
tech / gadgets
Flip Video Player Flip is a simple to use pocket camcorder favoured by celebs from Paul McCartney to Sienna Miller. The Flip has gained a cult following and taken amateur movie making to a wider audience. Simple to use and small enough to fit in your pocket; you can capture up to two hours of footage. The Flip MinoHD £179 theflip.com
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Gibson Robot Guitar Gibson’s third generation, limited edition robot guitar, the Dusk Tiger, represents the state of the art in electric guitars. Only 1,000 will be sold worldwide. Push the envelope or own a very expensive chat up line - chicks dig musicians. £2,799 - gibson.com
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hotels
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y arrival in the Catalan capital this summer marked the end of the single biggest fundraising challenge of my life: cycling unassisted from London to Barcelona, in a fortnight. I was tired and wanted to reintroduce some simple habitudes to my daily routine. Varying my diet beyond carbohydrate gels, avoiding a pillow of sweat drenched underwear and sitting on something wider than 155mms were all somewhere near the top of the wish list. The venue for these days of quiescence was the five-star Gran Hotel La Florida. They had food, pillows and a seat, just for me. Deduction suggested this hotel was excellent. To remain even remotely objective in this review was always going to be difficult. A bed in a heroin recovery clinic would have done me fine that night. My point distils when I consider the night before was spent sleeping in a disused rotisseria. Owing to a comedy of bicycle malfunctions we arrived in Cervera - our penultimate stop - exceptionally late; too late indeed for any civilised sleeping arrangements. By chance we spoke, in some vulgar Spanglish tongue, to a gaggle of half-cut Catalan students. After a deft dog and pony show on our day’s travails they invited us to sleep in their uncle’s now defunct, chicken shop. We ebulliently accepted. So to spend the following evening at the apex of Mount Tibidabo, in consummate luxury, required some vigilant composure. I soon adjusted. The sleek magnolia building was once a civilwar sentry and soldier’s hospital. From there its status augmented to a favourite glitter spot of the 50’s jet set. Known then as the Pleasure Palace, the hotel fell into decline until it was reopened in 2003. Today’s independently owned La Florida is the product of an extensive four-year restoration, helped in no small part by its internationally renowned design team. The USP of the hotel is patent. The ability to rapidly escape the sometimes overbearing effluvia of a city by being
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Gran Hote la Florida Apparently, this is one of the best small hotels in the world. IL’s Damien Gabet thought he’d get on his bike and take a peek five hundred metres above it, is quite remarkable. Elsewhere you’d need to purchase a zeppelin to imitate the effect. When they market the hotel as fifteen minutes from the city - around a €20 cab fare - they avoid any favourable hyperbole. Unless like me, you cycle up the hill, then it’s a fraction longer. Once you’ve reached your elevated Xanadu, a panorama including the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean and one of Europe’s most beautiful cities is all yours. Not only can you see Barcelona, it can see you. I took perhaps a little too much pleasure in saying: “see that building on that there mountain? We’re there”. The
designer spaces palatable. The rooms are open and bright while the embellishments remind you of the hotel’s calibre. All, I’m told, have pillows and chairs for you to use at your leisure. When, after four millennia, you grow tired of the view, I’d suggest spending some time near, or in, the 100ft long, L shaped pool. Stainless steel clad and ostensibly infinite, here we find another nod to the success of the recent revamp. If it’s rejuvenation you want the Zen Zone spa is down stairs. Try the Lomi-Juma massage; wonderful. I had transfigured from self-powered
locals looked confused. You begin quite quickly to feel like you might be somewhere rather special. And you still haven’t checked in. Eventually you’ll ask where your room is. Expect clean lines, oak, marble and an attenuated art nouveau style. Unless that is, you have a suite, in which case you’ll probably find the bespoke, celebrity-
European gadabout to Bond villain on a bike in a matter of hours. How Daniel Craig hasn’t been filmed here yet surprises. On the website you’ll find they clearly exhibit the ‘Leading Hotels of the World’ logo. Of the hotels in this niche that I’ve been too, Gran Hotel La Florida deserves its place the most. From €400 in a Deluxe Room, per room per night (excl 8% vat). Gran Hotel La Florida, Barcelona. www.hotellaflorida.com
HOTEL, RESTAURANT & BAR ,JOH 4USFFU 'SPNF 4PNFSTFU #" #) t 5 t &NBJM IFMMP!BSDIBOHFMGSPNF DPN A RC HA NG E L FROME . C OM
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e’ve borrowed bicycles from our hotel’s stock to explore the coastline and its numerous miniature coves. To familiarise, I accelerate for a while then apply the brakes. In Europe, the brakes levers are inverted. I pogo over the handle bars, land prone and chew the sienna-brick floor. Trying to mask the nausea of impact I immediately remount and act nonchalant; think Del-boy’s recovery from falling through the bar - it didn’t happen. In England, summer is as forgotten as the World Cup, so considering sun cream is an unexpected pleasure. We race each other gaily down sinuous, stone walkways and find a 10m wide bay ideal for photos and rest. I want to swim but my Lycra is in London. I have never been skinny dipping before. Not with two other
Get your pig out; white-truffle season is here. IL’s Damien Gabet, goes on the hunt for these diamonds of the kitchen whilst slumming it in Croatia’s only five-star hotel at the five-star - the only one in Croatia - Hotel Monte Mulini. Finished only last year Monte Mulini sits on the shoreline 10 minutes walk south of the terracotta town. We collect keys in the hotel’s atrium. A glass wall covering all three floors offers views of the bay and nature reserve that the hotel sits between. Every room has a balcony that looks to sea and the unmanned islands ink-blotting the horizon. First impressions, tick. The last time I had a spa ‘treatment’ a hirsute Hungarian shot put thrower - or so he looked - folded me in half and posted me to somewhere painful. Once
hunting the elusive white gold. In Istria, the conditions are good. So good that there are 2000 licensed trifolau or truffle hunters going about their clandestine dig each season. The lesser coveted black truffle grows perennially. For white, it’s September through to January. Our heavy-boned trifolau, Ivica, wets his boots as the foot bridge he is on sinks to the stream. He and his canine workers, Bobby and Jacky, zigzag across to meet us. One of our group comments on the condition of his skin. It’s flawless. Maybe he’s had a facial. Maybe the mystical mould is a skin drink? The close The Facts Room rates at Hotel Monte Mulini start from €235 incl. breakfast and vat for a double room. For further information or reservations visit: www.montemulinihotel.com +385 (0)52 636 000. Hotel Monte Mulini spa treatments Art Signature Facial: 490 Kn / €68 Stone Signature Massage: 600 Kn / €83 Wood Signature Massage: 600 Kn / €83 Truffle hunting: €120 per hr or €350 for 3hrs Lunch at Restaurant Zigante: €90 Eur per person Dinner at Hotel Monte Mulini’s restaurant: 460 kn / €64 Eur per person Nearest Airport is Pula
men in the middle of the day anyway. Before I have time to decide whether to singe the corneas of other bathers, I see a pair of creased buttocks confidently bounce to the Adriatic. These cheeks belong to our party. As I follow suit two local women pack up and leave, ignoring my salutation. The usual opacity of sea water is not here to censor our smut. The water is temperate and limpid blue all the way to its bed. I am in Rovinj. Rovinj is a picturesque fishing port in Istria. Istria is a peninsula on Croatia’s north coast. We’re staying
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tenderised, twice shy. Here, I play it safe by choosing a facial. No other reason. Although small, the spa is excellently staffed and the treatments are unanimously cathartic. I still dream about the figure of eight motions the masseuse made against my...jaw. The event that this trip has been leading up to is white-truffle hunting in the Motovun forest. Folklore says the treasured fungus grows only where lightening strikes. I’m told though, that the clayish calcium-rich soil around the base of Oak and Poplar trees is better direction for
relationship he has with the dogs is patent. Training a pooch to hunter standard takes around four years. But where are the pigs? Dogs are favoured for their obedience. Pigs have a habit of snarfing the goods before they can be pocketed by the huntsman. Chasing the hounds through the fairytale weald feels like rapidly turning the pages of an Enid Blighton classic. Tailing Jackie - Bobby seems disinterested - we stop at the foot of an oak’s girth. He digs. Ivica widens his eyes. Jacky is rewarded with a crocket; Ivica with €350 per 100g of bio gold. In a season he can
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dig up €15,000. As we frenetically follow the sniffing sleuth, it becomes apparent that this may be staged – Ivica repeatedly offers direction on where to dig. It didn’t matter. We went treasure hunting and we found our smelly booty. Lunch at the nearby Restaurant Zigante was in keeping with the day we’d had. Diaphanous slices of cow were topped with precious shavings. The immediate potency of the truffle’s smell countered its subtler taste. The linguine with truffle was excellent; the truffle ice-cream
wasn’t. I admired, at least, the attempt to make a mushroom/onion umami work in a sweet. Since Croatia’s secession in the 90’s things have moved on rather quickly. Considering Rovinj as a luxury holiday destination is not unwise. Hotel Monte Mulini, with its location, architecture and bountiful cellar sits strongly next to Europe’s top brass. Croatia’s Kuna is favourable to our Sterling too. Come to Croatia and find some mould with a fat man and dog. It’s five-star.
But where are the pigs? Dogs are favoured for their obedience. Pigs have a habit of snarfing the goods before they can be pocketed by the huntsman
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“A TOP SPOT FOR LUNCH” - daILy teLeGraPh
“Best Breakfast In London” - the Good food GuIde and the tImes
“roast has a menu to make BrItIsh cookInG cooL and an envIronment to make It sexy” - London eatInG
% (E] MR XLI PMJI SJ 6SEWX 7am Breakfast, and the day Begins... As the traders of Borough Market start to appear one by one, the first breakfast dishes start to roll out of the kitchen heading for the early birds eager to devour the best brekkie in town... Aromas of smoky bacon, crusty toast and fresh teas fill the air, as the restaurant quickly begins to fill. A sense of excitement begins to grow - The ‘Full Borough’ has been served no doubt – a celebration of the Great British Breakfast, with all the usual components, with a couple of special treats – Ramsay of Carluke Black pudding and Roast’s very own special recipe sausages!
12pm the lunch rush... One hundred and fifty diners are about to arrive, hungry and awaiting a feast of the most wholesome, fresh and seasonal produce our shores have to offer. Canny concoctions such as hot scotch duck eggs with pea shoots and piccalilli fill the starter list. As cries of ‘pound a punnet’ echo from the market below, guests wash down a glass of the exclusive Roast Bacchus white wine, whilst enjoying flavours such as cold poached organic salmon or our house favourite – slow roast pork belly, crispy crackling and Bramley apple sauce.
6pm dinner overlooking st paul’s cathedral... The restaurant is alive, atmosphere buzzing as dinner gets underway. Soft jazz piano can be heard from the bar, among the pouring of fancy drinks and ‘Bloody Tasty Mary’s’ for the after work sharpener. Melt in the mouth ox tongue can be seen amongst the tables, a staple of British cuisine, while others take on the 14oz Shorthorn rib eye steak. The restaurant is in its prime, people eating, drinking, smiling whilst enjoying the special sense of occasion.
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ROAST: The Floral Hall, Borough Market, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL T: 0845 034 7300 | info@roast-restaurant.com | www.roast-restaurant.com
11pm service ends... As Borough Market winds to a close, the last of the restaurant guests slowly depart. Life in the restaurant is still not over...clean up and prep for tomorrow. Just another day in the busy life of Roast...
While we shall negotiate freely, we shall not negotiate freedom. JFK Following financial problems a startling new documentary exploring a key era in America’s modern history approaches UK distribution. Rhiannon Williams discusses archive footage of three decade-defining men whose deaths were felt the world over.
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n November 22nd 1963, having served only two years in office, US President John F Kennedy was assassinated in Dallas, Texas. His murder sent global shock waves, and marked the beginning of a spate of assassinations that would change the course of both American and world history. From Howard Goldstein, executive producer of cult classic Girl on a Motorcycle, and director Ronan O’Rahilly comes KingKennedy, a unique sociopolitical documentary that deftly weaves together the lives and deaths of three extraordinary yet doomed figureheads; President Kennedy, his brother Robert, and civil rights visionary Martin Luther King. Consisting solely of archive television and radio footage, the film admirably sidesteps any temptation to capitalise on the well-known theories surrounding the murders of each. Instead, we focus on the organic narrative generated by the media material of the time. KingKennedy was a labour of love for the filmmakers. Years of research gave way to the painstaking process of editing more than 800 hours of footage to produce around 120 minutes of film. Much of this material is rough, with time codes and library copyright still embedded and very much visible, while the audio is unmastered and often muffled. After several stop-starts during production thanks to financial issues the project is nearly complete. A national theatrical release is being touted, with the caveat of additional funding to clean up the ‘rough-cut’, thus bringing the image and sound up to cinematic standards. A significant issue, as additional music is kept to a minimum. Though it should be noted the sparse soundtrack is employed
with great effect; Simon and Garfunkel’s revolutionary anthem ‘The Sound of Silence’ is layered over sombre opening scenes, while Bob Dylan’s ‘A Hard Rain’s Gonna Fall’ plays alongside images of soldiers in Vietnam. Despite the hardships the project has faced the final (albeit unpolished) product is a moving and thrilling political drama free from transcribed narration and, by extension, any biased agenda. Whilst there is a clear structure to the documentary it resists becoming another simple homage to King’s astounding achievements for racial equality. Nor is it pre-occupied with attesting to JFK’s family man or political hero status. It does, however, shed much light on the criminally overlooked life of Robert ‘Bobby’ Kennedy, and grants him screen time so often denied in favour of his older brother, John. The audience bears witness to the agony endured by JFK as he deliberates on navigating the international ‘Bay of Pigs’ crisis, Dr King’s impassioned speeches that continue to be studied in schools worldwide, and Robert’s crucial proposal to withdraw US troops from Vietnam while running for President. These historic moments are played out in a theatre of nostalgia, skillfully highlighting the similarities and stark differences evident in one country, half a century later. Compared to today’s public, and their jaded cynicism towards politicians, the sheer idealism and youthful hope of ‘60s America is fascinating. On the flipside we explore the ugly racism of the deep South, Lee Harvey Oswald’s bizarre confession to JFK’s murder and his subsequent death at the hands of Jack Ruby. All the while the parallels between America’s involvement in Vietnam, and the controversial military decisions the superpower has made in >> www.internationallife.tv/film
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film
KingKennedy
>> recent years are, though not laboured, blatant. And as thousands lined the streets to watch the Kennedy family pass by and Marilyn Monroe seductively sing ‘Happy Birthday’, the jubilant optimism surrounding Obama’s Presidential victory comes to mind. Goldstein describes the production as “an intelligent film for intelligent people,” yet the documentary is less an argument of intellect, and more a question of essential viewing. Theoretical futures are folly,
but it would nonetheless be churlish to imagine a modern world less liberated had the lives of these three men not been cut short. The implications of their actions and what they stood for remains a remarkable testament to the strength of human spirit in such times of adversity. Poignant and powerful, KingKennedy’s painfully relevant commentary on world affairs and human life deserves to be seen by everyone. To donate to the KingKennedy project or to learn more, please visit www.kingkennedy.com, where the roughcut can be viewed for a small donation.
Telling truths, T believing lies As we approach the anniversary of the Nanking Massacre IL’s Martin Gutteridge-Hewitt speaks to acclaimed director Lu Chuan about his movie City of Life & Death, Chinese censorship, and how in war, nobody is innocent.
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he events of World War Two are well documented in film. From Saving Private Ryan to cinematic tales of Iwo Jima we’re all familiar with many of the wheres and whys surrounding this horrific conflict. But hidden underneath the acceptable stories are, often, more chilling tales. Understandably we shy away from these most telling acts of persecution by people. We may not want to brave these dark corners of the human mind, but can we ever hope to learn anything if we don’t? Max Ophuls famously explored these moments of madness in his breathtaking,
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though somewhat overbearing four-hour documentary, The Sorrow and the Pity. The interviews with French nationals who collaborated with Nazis took some stomaching in a post-War France keen to rebuild a national identity destroyed by conflict and betrayal. This idea that countrymen or indeed that respectable people could turn to acts of depravity when “towing the party line” is uncomfortable. For this reason, when Lu Chuan released City Of Life & Death in China, controversy gripped a nation. The film retells how Japanese troops entered the former Chinese capital of Nanking in December 1937. Experiencing some resistance they retaliated with greater force, and the city fell. In the six weeks that followed around 250,000 civilians and unarmed soldiers were killed, with some 80,000 women systematically raped. Chuan focuses on the events immediately after the Japanese victory, with military conflict limited to the early action sequences. Once the white flag is raised we see men buried alive, stabbed or shot, while women are enslaved, tied to beds and sold in 15-minute intervals to ‘comfort’ Japanese soldiers. It’s hardhitting, harrowing, and deeply affecting. What is truly fascinating, though, is the inherent refusal to take sides. The central character in this non-linear plot is a guilt ridden, emotionally damaged and surprisingly empathetic Japanese soldier. And elsewhere we observe a Nazi (who in reality would go on to save thousands of lives) as he protects his Chinese assistant and family. In turn they ignore the atrocities outside their doors, until the nightmare literally bursts through, killing an infant, abducting wife and sister. The Times heralded City as one of the year’s best films, with almost every other respected critical body following suit. With that in mind we picked up the phone and gave the director a call…
Were you surprised at the positive reaction from critics here in the UK? I was really encouraged by the critics’ response. This movie has been quite heavily, quite badly criticised in China by some of the media and the intellectuals. Most people these days cannot accept a movie like this, a film with a Japanese soldier as something of a hero. They cannot accept the truth. For me I’m a filmmaker, I spent four years making this movie and part of that was to make a film not just for Chinese audiences. I wanted to make a film for the world, to give a warning that it’s still in danger. So why choose Nanking as the focus? I spent four years at college there, from 1989 to 1993. During that time I visited the holocaust museum two or three times, each depressed me deeply. I felt so bad, so appalled and so sick I actually had to leave the building. There are thousands of human bones, with all kinds of different scarring - adults and children. When I finished my second movie I decided I had to make a film about these horrific events. The memories, even for me of the museum, but more so for those involved, are so powerful. I was pushed into doing it, compelled even. How did Chinese audiences react to the characters in the film that fell in with the Japanese? This kind of thing provoked the Chinese audience. They could never believe the soldiers gave up their own people to the enemy. But everything in the movie is the truth. I don’t care if people believe it or not, my only concern is telling the truth. Every day I have been attacked with words, because of this inability to accept. But then some of the Chinese audience, I wouldn’t say they liked it, but they did believe the story, and felt the film should be made. People say City has divided China. Why is your depiction of Japanese soldiers noticeably more human than many
of your European counterparts’ portrayal of Nazis? Japan is one whole side to the tragedy. I wanted to show the soldiers as people, not beasts. For too long in China few people acknowledged the Japanese as anything other than butchers, so I needed to show the country that normal people can become killers - that’s what war is. We are all normal, but maybe someday in the future we too will turn to butchers on the battlefields of other countries. Was it challenging to make a movie appealing to the West, on the modern history of a nation as secretive as China? I think yes. There is this huge gap between Western people and Eastern people- for a start people in the West aren’t exposed to other cultures that much. In America they watch almost only American films, and in Europe they mainly see Hollywood and local movies. “The space for Chinese film is limitedthe press and process in Europe and the US cares little about it so there’s little promotion or distribution opportunity. For me I really want to bridge that gap, and show audiences that China’s cinema can be interesting. Filmmakers from any country can make a movie that touches everyone. Chinese censorship, by reputation, is strict. How difficult was it to get this filmand its message - passed by the board? Very hard. Before you start shooting the film the Committee of Censorship has to see your script. Then they decide to go ahead with it or not. This project took seven or eight months for them to come to that decision. Then after we finished filming it had to go back before them for permission to distribute. Even after production they can change, add or remove what they don’t like. It’s tough, but this story needed to be told. City of Life & Death. On sale, courtesy of Optimum Home Entertainment. www.internationallife.tv/film
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art
With a retro typewriter she bought from a charity shop, Keira Rathbone has tapped her way to success. Gavin Haines watches the artist at work.
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s Keira Rathbone perused the shelves of a charity shop in Dorset, the artist had no idea she was about to stumble upon the tools of her trade. Even as she paid for the typewriter that she bought on a whim, the idea of it helping her become a global phenomenon was fanciful to say the least. In fact it seemed more likely to end up as decoration than anything else, something of a talking point at the artist’s home in Poole, Dorset. While Keira struggled to find the words to write with her defunct piece of office equipment, she enrolled on a fine art degree at UWE Bristol, taking the typewriter with her. “Somewhere in the middle of the first year, after not really having anything to write, I began experimenting with drawing with it,” says Keira. “Quite quickly I realised I would be exploring this much further.” Eight years later, Keira’s intricate typing have been met with critical acclaim from her hometown
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in Poole to as far afield as India. A string of authors, fashion designers, musicians, lifestyle stores and magazines are keen to offer commissions. In fact, earlier this year she was asked to create a portrait of David Miliband for a magazine cover. She duly obliged. “The magazine goes out to the House of Lords, the House of Commons and 162 embassies, so it’s quite a good one,” she says modestly, while tapping away. “I based my typeface on an image of Miliband delivering a worthy speech. It seemed alive and strong to me, so I wanted to portray this in my piece.” Keira, who has now moved into a studio in Chiswick, has produced Typed Portraits or ‘Typefaces’ of Kate Moss, Barack Obama, Cherie Blair, still lifes and various landscapes including a fantastic triptych typing of Bournemouth pier. Keira uses a combination of letters, numbers and symbols, not to mention her artistic flair and unfailing patience, to create the prints which can take up to 30 hours each to produce. Unsurprisingly, this can be tiresome work. “If I have been typing for more than an hour I have to stop and have a break,” admits Keira. “It’s actually not the tapping finger that aches but the arm that moves the paper.” Keira’s tenacity and patience is being rewarded as she’s typing out a lucrative little niche for herself. I ask her what we can expect next from the typewriter artist. “I’d love to travel the world and capture all the beautiful landscapes and of course the people’s faces, hunting down typewriters as I go to record these scenes (i.e. an Indian typewriter to type the Taj Mahal). Then I’d like to stage exhibitions in the respective countries at a later date.” So watch this space... Keira is currently exhibiting at Montcalm’s Barre Noire, a boutique hotel
in Marble Arch, central London. “There will also be a soirée in the bar area (dates tbc) with live typing and typewriter art on display,” says Keira, who recently did some live work at the FashArt charity gala dinner for ‘Caudwell Children’ in The Natural History Museum. She will also be back in her hometown on October 31 typing live as part of the Poole Literary Festival. “It’s set to be a groundbreaking event for Poole with some big names in literary circles confirmed to attend.” For more details about Keira’s upcoming events or to see her work online visit keirarathbone.com.
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left hand page - far left Kate Moss left hand page - top right Typewriters left hand page - bottom right American novelist Bonnie Greer this page David Miliband - Labour MP
I’d love to travel the world and capture all the beautiful landscapes and of course the people’s faces, hunting down typewriters as I go to record these scenes KEIRA RATHBONE www.internationallife.tv/art
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globespotting
What really makes
Clean air, crystal waters, Calvinism and a 24 carat gold sculpture. International Life’s Peter Doherty encounters 5 star Swiss hospitality and loses track of time in Geneva
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rand Hotel Kempinski is one of the reasons I would recommend a visit to Geneva. Situated on Lake Geneva, the hotel enjoys impressive views of the Jet d’Eau, Mont Blanc, and the French Alps. The food, wine, clean air and intriguing history are other pluses in this effortlessly, traversable international city. Geneva has lived with throwaway tags from ‘city of clock watchers’, ‘the international HQ of everything’ and, like the groomed poodles who live between the elbow and underarm of its wealthy socialites, ‘small and expensive’. Amusing as some of those monikers are, they are only half truths and do an injustice to this charming metropolis. En route to this City you actually get the welcome frisson of Swiss efficiency as early as City Airport via the flawless service of Swiss Airline Baboo. Within two hours I was in the lap of five star Swiss luxury at Grand Hotel Kempinski. The view from the hotel balcony was a picturesque throwback to the laissez faire swagger of the riviera of the fifties. The promenade, randomly populated with locals strolling to no particular timetable - rare for a place where everything (and I mean everything) is done to the tick tock of two rotating blades - Swiss made, of course. I ventured onto a pebbled beach with a carefully designated swimming area. A crowd of foreign visitors gathered
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staring in disbelief through the crisp clear water at the neat rows of pebbles on the bottom. By their puzzled demeanour they must have been Londoners who couldn’t assimilate these images with the opaque, brown sludge that weaves its way through their own city. The clean air and clear skies brought the vista featuring Mont Blanc across the lake into sharp focus. Although it was september, the sun’s piercing presence gave the locals that desirable and exotic mediterranean tan you can only find in bottle form back in Blighty. The healthy climate gets you in the mood for a feel-good detox. It also made me feel less guilty about my Swiss vineyard excursion just out of the city, where a delightful combination of Swiss cheeses and meats complemented an impressive local wine selection, imbibed in the cellar. On my return I went on to the old town where bountiful natural water cascades
down from the white peaks to the fountain in the square. Here people happily quench their thirst. This is not a place were you can possibly dehydrate. The city tour was a real eye opener. A free river pass takes you across the
lake to a modest and rather stark place of worship, stripped of ornamentation and iconography, although retaining that historical grandeur via a stunningly designed organ and punctuated with vibrant stained glass narratives. This is the home of Calvinism - prompting the guide to regale us with stories of how adherence to Mr Calvin’s uncompromising doctrine extended to not smiling or laughing in public, eclipsing even the Lutherans with his mantra of austerity and obedience. Circumnavigating the lake were huge logo marques of the city’s Huguenot watchmakers, like the founding fathers, respected and admired by its proud inhabitants. Away from the quaint old town the great institutions line up side by side - a veritable who’s who of global giants from the International Olympic Committee, The Red Cross to (IGOs); Council of Europe (CoE) and corporate giants Coca Cola, Sony and McDonalds to name but a few. Staying neutral obviously has its rewards. Back to the Kempinski, the epitome of Swiss hospitality, organisation and elegance. I headed down to Le Spa, a seamless and disarming oasis of natural colours and textures, bathed in warm light and expertly conceived by Architect Tarek Hegazy. It was perfectly complemented by exotic treatments from award winning Cinq Mondes that draw on the ancient cultures of China, India, Bali and Thailand. I booked for a simple back massage, but the combination of expert hands,
globespotting
top left: Vista across Lake Geneva below right: Artist Dante with 24 carat gold DB5 below left: Ground floor swimming pool below middle: The home of Calvinism left hand page: Private rooms at Le Spa
Hotel & Spa at-a-glance Relaxing Leg Massage: (30 mn) 95.CHF Firming Wrap with Ocher Clay and Seaweed: (30 mn) 95.CHF Face Care-Massage: (60 mn) 175. CHF Ayurvedic Massage: (60 mn) 175.CHF Ceremonial from Siam: (2hrs) 339.CHF Serenity Rituals: (5 days) 1157. CHF Example Pachages: Deluxe Lakeview Room Luxury Weekend Spa 1,741.00. CHF Visit the website for full details
The view from the hotel balcony was a picturesque throwback to the laissez faire swagger of the riviera of the fifties
wonderfully evocative fragrances and otherworldly ambiance made time almost irrelevant. In fact at Le Spa, I lost all sense of it. Some achievement in the watch capital of the world. Dining on the balcony overlooking the lake was certainly a highlight and the range of continental cuisines and influences on the menu were enough to satisfy the most ardent critic. Although not exactly Rio, evening shows at Theatre du Leman included offerings as diverse as Cirque Eloize, South African dance, Mozart and Gospel. The trendy Java Club packs the glitterati in at weekends and the option of late night drinking and eating is firmly on the table
as this City is so easy to navigate. The hotel hosted Dior’s impressive autumn/winter collection, but their display of the work of award winning Swiss artist, Dante somehow eclipsed even that with his three dimensional, (1:4 scale) linear interpretations of the Aston Martin DB5. The real ‘star of Goldfinger’ was appropriately finished in 24 carat gold and mounted on an ebony cabinet. Added to that Dante produced a 1:2 scale sculpture of the legendary Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing, finished in white gold leaf, complete with a sumptuous piano black display plinth. The fusion of classic automotive design and artistic expression captivated an
audience of visitors, business people and art collectors alike. So there’s quite a bit to impress the first time visitor and if not the culture, then the Spa alone will go a long way towards pushing the Geneva experience higher up the ‘weekend escape’ list. Those who ‘do’ long weekends in the Riviera (typically Monaco) or continental city breaks should consider Geneva. This is a place where time can stand still. It did for me and I’m feeling much the younger for it. Grand Hotel Kempinski www.kempinski-geneva.com Artist: Dante www.dantedesign.ch. Swiss Airline Baboo www.flybaboo.com www.internationallife.tv/travel
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small gift gallery
Jeff de Bruges Chocolatier South Molton St, London W1. Raks Shah came across the Jeff de Bruges brand while on holiday in France. We owe him a great debt for bringing it back to the UK. The Result? Chocolate heaven at extremely competitive prices. There’s also a fantastic selection of luxury, gift wrapped collections. What more can a chocolate lover ask for?
The UK’s thriving with entrepreneurs, artisans, design and crafts people. We’ve selected a few that have caught our eye at the extremely hard to impress International Life HQ. For details on featured brands: www.internationallife.tv/business
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Boujies Launched in 2010 Boujies have taken a novel approach to candle making. Not only are their jars, cool, ergonomic and modern but their candles are composed of eco soya wax and essential oils. How’s this for starters... ‘Ativo’ - fresh bergamot and mandarin with a herbal blend of basil, coriander, clary-sage and tea. There’s more. Burn time is at least 35 hours. That’s a bright idea.
small gift gallery
Lorna Syson. Sculptural Textile Designer Award winning Lorna set up with help from the Princes Trust in 2009 and is now creating a stir with her new sustainable British Hedgerow Collection. The luxurious cushions are made from a combination of wool and stinging nettles. The statement wall flowers and hearts are threedimensional wall sculptures. They are made to order to complement your own personal style..
Nick Hubbard and the ‘Brick and Bean’ team. Jewellery. We love Nick’s narrative style. He modestly describes it as a ‘collection of figurative and whimsical handcrafted jewellery all bearing messages of hope and affection, some with opening doors and moving parts’. We just think it’s ace. See left and above right.
Debbie Bryan Studio The Lace Market, Nottingham Debbie designs from the home of lace and her brooch (above left) and malleable selection of scarves stopped us in our tracks, along with an assembled crowd. Designs are fluid, individual and textural. Quite unique.
Farah Qureshi. Jeweller Farah is making waves with fashion stylists and designers alike with her contemporary jewellery pieces made from precious metals. Inspired by organic forms from the natural world and eastern cultures Farah’s diverse collections range from delicate stud earrings, tiaras to chunky cufflinks. We spotted her at the International Jewellery show in London. Another priceless find.
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music
Interview Sophie Hiller
Some say Sophie Hiller is Barnet’s answer to Aretha Franklin. I.L. caught up with her to see what all the fuss is about. Q: So how come you’re so good? A: Ha ha, I tell you what, how about I start from the beginning? Q: Yes please. A: I was born into a really musical family, so the singing was bound to happen really. My dad’s a musician, as is my uncle, grandpa, great uncle and the list goes on. It meant I was brought up listening to great music as a child, people like Stevie Wonder and Aretha Franklin who’ve really been big influences on me. I started getting up and singing at gigs when I was about 11 and when I was around 13 and heard my dad working away in the studio, I decided I wanted to write a song with him and record it… So that’s where it all began! Q: Tell us of your singing career so far, you implausibly young thing you? A: Well, to start with the highlights: this gig I’ve just done with Tom Jones is unbelievable. I’m having such an amazing time. Other than that, being able to work with some really talented writers, musicians and producers and playing some fantastic venues around London. The Royal Albert Hall is up there with the best. I can’t think of many lowlights, only the occasional feelings of frustration when plans fall through. Q: We know you have lots of them, but what kind of person is your typical fan? A: I wouldn’t really know how to describe a typical fan, all I know is I get some really nice messages from fans enjoying my music. So the only way I can describe them is as being very complimentary. Q: For better or worse, who do people compare you to the most? A: I’ve had Amy Winehouse, Joss Stone and Christina Aguilera a few times, which of course is complimentary as they’re all great artists. I’d worry if I got it too much though, being original is so important. Q: Did Amy Winehouse call you, “one of the most exciting, talented new
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artists around?” A: She did indeed! How exciting is that? Q: Very. How did you respond? A: Well it’s an amazing compliment to hear that from anyone, let alone from one of the most talented female artists around. Q: So the big call up from Sir Tom, you must have been Delilah-ted? A: Delighted doesn’t even cover it! It took me a long time to actually register that I wasn’t imagining it all. Q: The schedule looked pretty intense, how did it all go? A: It went great. There’s lots of hard work in learning the tracks, rehearsing with the other vocalists and sound checking, but it all pays off. Going out there and doing a gig every night is so much fun, it flies by every night. I come offstage saying “Oh, can we go and do it again!?” Q: When you warm up for a big show do you have a ritual you go through? Honey on the throat; humidifier for the lungs; a prayer to the god of song and dance? A: All of those sound like good ideas actually, may have to steal some. I make sure I’m warmed up, lots of scales, arpeggios and chewing on imaginary toffee to warm up my mouth. I drink lots of water and then will generally do a bit of crazy dancing around backstage to get myself all pumped and ready to go. Q: We know and love Sir Tom for his powerful voice and overt sexuality – does he still have both? A: Oh yes. Tom’s voice is so strong. When you hear him live for the first time, the sheer power of it really takes your breath away. As for the overt sexuality, well let’s just say all those women in the crowd don’t throw their knickers on the stage for nothing. Q: Do you think he’s better looking now he’s let his grey hair flourish? A: Definitely, it certainly hasn’t put off any
of his female fans either. Q: Did he give you any insider tips for singer success? A: I could tell you, but I’d have to kill you, and all your readers. These things are secret! Q: How will you know when you’ve made it to the big time, a Wikipedia page? A: Well a Wikipaedia page would be nice, you can make them for your self though can’t you? So that doesn’t really count. I think that day I turn the radio on in my car and my song’s playing, I’ll be pretty pleased with that. Q: Tell us about the debut album? A: I’ve been working on it for a long time; there are tracks on there that I wrote when I was 15. Most of it is co-written with my Dad, Lawrence Hiller, and some also with other writers. Writing with other people brings you out of your comfort zone and forces you to come up with things you may not have on your own. It has a real oldschool jazzy, soul influence which I love. Q: When is it out? A: At the moment that depends on what happens with Mr Jones! Q: What are the big plans for 2011? A: Some more touring would be fantastic, album release and lots more gigging. Q: What is your favourite interview question? A: ‘What is your favourite thing about being a singer’, because when I answer it, I think, wow I love what I do. Q: What is your most hated question? A: I hate any sort of question where I have to make a decision - do you prefer A or B - as decision making is not my forte, it stresses me out. Q: If I was to ask you out for a drink, would you A) say yes or B) say no? A: Oh you.
Collagen.... makes up 70% of the connective tissue in our skin, the part where the ageing process is found to take place
beauty
Sun, sea, sand... and skincare Spent your summer in Monaco? Ibiza? The Hamptons? No doubt you look better for it. You’re taking a healthy bronze with you into the winter months. Your under-eye bags are still at bay and your skin looks fresh and perky.
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f you were, however, to take a closer look - a closer look below the surface of your skin you might be alarmed to realise that in reality the summer sun has made a few more changes to your skin than you first thought. The primary cause of wrinkles and ageing of the skin is over exposure to the sun’s UVA & B rays. Regrettably I have to inform you that wrinkles, those annoying little lines that creep over the surface of our skin, can never be topically eliminated. Despite the marketing ploys of brands, desperate to inform you that they have the new magic potion to rid you of fine lines, sun damage and the breakdown of skin’s natural structure is irreversible and cannot be altered by topical treatments. What’s done is done, as my mother would say. Now I would not deny you the few weeks of pleasure a year that you have sitting in the sun. Lord no! That accumulation of Vitamin D is, in my opinion, vital to your well being and peace of mind. It seems we cannot have it both ways. Restrict our access to the sun and
our health is compromised, overexpose ourselves and our health is compromised. The cosmetics industry is very aware of this ethical dilemma and has of late taken to creating ‘solution’ products with some gusto. Topical treatments however will only get you so far and many women (and men) are keen to take that next step towards reversing the breakdown of their skin’s intercellular structure. In fact in the UK alone we spend £1.8 million every day on the cosmetic medicals market. Dr Nick
Lowe of the Cranley Clinic and one of the UK’s leading dermatologists has been pioneering Fraxel Re:pair Laser treatment in Europe which uses a refined carbon dioxide laser to reduce wrinkles, furrows fine lines and ameliorate skin that has been damaged by the environment. Its main target is photodamage and it had been proven to stimulate new collagen and elastin production deep within the dermis. Collagen, for those who are confused by the common and nonspecific use of this beauty buzzword, makes up 70% of the connective tissue in our skin, the part where the ageing process is found to take place. Over time and as a result of exposure to sunlight, the young soluble collagen in our skin becomes insoluble and inflexible. It loses its ability to absorb and
retain moisture leaving our skin looking dried out and wrinkly. “This system offers the biggest breakthrough for wrinkle reduction in the last 10 years,” says Dr Nick Lowe. “Results approach those that can be achieved with a facelift, with very few complications and limited downtime. The Fraxel Re:pair system produces significant skin tightening, wrinkle reduction and a marked improvement in the skin’s texture.” Ever keen to be ahead in the race for scientific developments, Clinique has created what many, more cautious consumers have been waiting for: the laser treatment in a bottle. Clinique’s New Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector, £34, is the latest in a trend of multi tasking anti-ageing formulas from some of the world’s top brands. In 12 weeks the serum claims to achieve 63% of the visible wrinkle reducing power of a laser and has conducted tests to prove it. Whatever treatment you decide to go for - and I for one would not discourage you from trying them out – there really is only one way to work against wrinkles and that is SPF; prevention, after all, is the best cure. Every single day of the year, come rain, come shine, come tropical storm, you should incorporate some sort of barrier against sun damage into your skincare regime. My barrier of choice this season would be Sisley All Day All Year essential anti-ageing day care, £205, which can be worn as a light barely-there base under your make-up and contains active UVA and UVB shields that last for 8 hours. www.internationallife.tv/beauty
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london villages
“London is a glorious mess... a score or so of distinct villages, that merged and meshed as their boundaries enlarged. As a result, London is a labyrinth, full of turnings and twistings just like a brain,’’ observed American journalist, James Geary. We sent out Clare Richardson and Andy Willetts to unravel the glory from the mess and find the best destinations and experiences in the boutique villages of London
London Villages Knightsbridge | Notting Hill | Mayfair | South Kensington | Westminster & Pimlico | Canary Wharf
Knightsbridge Restaurant For your festive feast, celebrate Christmas at Langtry’s Restaurant at The Cadogan Hotel. Serving modern British dishes with a twist, Head Chef, Oliver Lesnik has prepared some merry menus for the party season. From 10 November – 23 December 2010, Diners can enjoy festive cheer with a three-course ‘Mistletoe Package’, £45pp, or the four-course ‘Santa’s package’, £55pp. On Christmas Day a luxurious six-course menu is available at £125pp. Featuring high sculptured ceilings and a magnificent marble fireplace, Langtry’s makes for a stylish and romantic yuletide. www.cadogan.com Fashion For an exclusive gift this Christmas head to Frey Wille. Found on Sloane Street, it is nestled in with other jewellery czars, Boodles and Graff, opposite the ever fabulous Harvey Nichols. A leading company in precious enamel jewellery since the 1950’s, the opening of the store ties in with the launch of Frey Wille’s new Autumn/Winter jewellery collections ‘Hope’ and ‘Nixe’. www.frey-wille.com Beauty Have you ever fancied being pampered in complete privacy, but love the salon
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above left Bangles from Frey Wille’s new Autumn/ Winter jewellery collections ‘Hope’ and ‘Nixe’ left the latest creations from designer Natasha LeithSmith. Allumer, Notting Hill right Two exclusive spaces within the luxurious salon of Paul Edmonds. Designed by Brahm Interiors.
experience? Make way for The Rooms - two exclusive spaces within the luxurious salon of celebrated hair pioneer Paul Edmonds. Designed by Brahm Interiors, The Rooms create a relaxing, stylish setting with a contemporary twist on 1940’s glamour. The Rooms have been specifically created for clients whose time is precious. Sample the team’s expertise away from the hustle and bustle of the salon. For an added treat you can take a little of the salon’s calming ambiance with you in the shape of a new collection of premium candles. www.pauledmonds.com Grotto There is only one place to go for the ultimate Christmas Grotto experience - Harrods. A long-standing tradition at
the Knightsbridge store, children and parents can visit the grotto, meet Father Christmas and share their festive wish-list. All children leave with a gift and parents will have the opportunity to purchase an official photograph to mark the occasion. www.harrods.com
Notting Hill Ethical Shopping Christmas is a time for giving and it is all the better if there is moral fibre to your gifts. Ethical Just Got Fabulous is a luxury Christmas shopping event hosted on 4th and 5th December at the beautiful Notting Hill 20th Century Theatre. Bringing together a diverse mix of design focused fashion and lifestyle brands this trade
london villages
raised goes to charity. www.savethechildren.org.uk IL will be keeping an eye out for pieces by Dorka Zgrzeba and Carrie Reichardt. Saturdays and Sundays: 10am-5pm Portobello Market, London W11
Organic lip balms at Ethical Just Got Fabulous
event showcases up and coming ethical brands in a contemporary and on-trend light - proving that ethical really can be fabulous. Shining the spotlight on smaller emerging brands, this event focuses on a new movement that appeals to the consumer conscience. So save the date and get Christmas wrapped up the ethical way! www.ethicaljustgotfabulous.com Fashion For jewellery with a festive twist - decorate yourself with the new winter collection from Allumer. The latest creation from designer Natasha Leith-Smith, diffusion line ‘Allumette’, is a series of bracelets, necklaces and earrings launching in Notting Hill. With the combination of vibrant colours and tiny bell charms an ‘Allumette’ piece makes for a jolly addition to your winter wardrobe. All charms are 9kt gold and hallmarked with either diamonds, cut out hearts, flames, letters or messages. Presented in a charming matchbox, this is the ultimate friendship bracelet to be seen and heard in this Christmas and new year. www.allumer.co.uk This party season you can deck yourself with designer gear for a snippet of the price whilst giving to a great cause. Earlier this year the very first Mary’s Living and Giving Shop for Save the Children opened on Westbourne Grove. It’s been popular since. The brainchild of television presenter Mary Portas and charity Save the Children, the boutique displays an amalgam of high fashion, charity shopping and local talent. Shoppers are encouraged to look through their wardrobe and bring along their donations. Update your winter wares in a stylish and sophisticated environment knowing that everything
Cocktail Bar For a winter’s tipple with a bit of a difference head to Trailer Happiness on Portobello Road. This self-styled bar, den and kitchen offers a vast array of captivating cocktails including the Flaming Zombie served up in earthenware volcanoes. With lively tiki décor, an eclectic mix of music and the added bonus of free canapés, this quirky setting makes a change from some of the more generic bars in the area. Book early for your Christmas party. www.trailerhappiness.com
Mayfair Private Member’s Club If you’re seeking a haven from the hustle and bustle of Mayfair’s streets this winter, private members club Molton House could be the solution. Set in a converted Georgian townhouse and overlooking fashionable South Molton Street, this desirable venue spans five floors with a cocktail lounge, restaurant, two private dining rooms and an exclusive nightclub. Winner of Best Private Members’ Club in 2009 and stylishly designed with Moorish and ethnic influences, Molton house has already established itself as a popular venue for intimate drinks, business meetings and exclusive club nights. Its members spanning the creative, fashion, media and financial sectors are accommodated for with a tailored membership scheme. www.moltonhouse.com Afternoon tea After a hectic day shopping for the perfect gift, escape the Christmas crowds and opt for a touch of elegance with the Claridge’s Festive Tea. Indulge yourself with a gourmet feast and toast the festive season with a glass of champagne. Finger sandwiches, raisin and apple scones, French pastries and traditional Christmas pastries are just some of the delights on offer. Reservations are essential. www.claridges.co.uk
South Kensington Natural History on Ice Set within the museum’s lawns, skaters can glide around the 1,000-square metre rink in the shadow of the elegant, Romanesque building. Other attractions include a children’s rink, a beautiful fairground carousel all set amongst trees sparkling with 76,000 fairy lights. Above the ice rink is a viewing platform and stylish Café Bar where you can warm up or chill out with music and refection. The ice rink is open to the public from 5 November 2010 until 9 January 2011. www.nhmskating.com Food Royal Albert Hall Christmas Festival For the definitive carol singing experience what better surrounding than the Royal Albert Hall? Concerts take place nearly every day during the party season. A special performance from Katherine Jenkins highlights an assortment of live shows sure to put you in the spirit for the season of goodwill. The Royal Albert Hall Christmas Festival runs from 24 November - 24 December 2010. www.royalalberthall.com (see image below) Craft Show We Make London - Christmas Craft Wonderland If you fancy a break from the high street, try exploring the designer crafters at the We Make London Christmas Craft Show. On 4 December Chelsea Town Hall will be filled with over 80 handpicked exhibitors selling a wide variety of goods, ranging from eco-friendly hand-crafted gifts, jewellery, fashion, graphic/fine art, toys and children’s clothing. With fancy dress competitions, Christmas tree decoration activities and special guest appearances from fairytale characters Snow White and Peter Pan - this event looks set to be a superb day out for all the family. www.wemakelondon.blogspot.com
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W’minster & Pimlico Canary Wharf Turner Prize The British Press proudly upholds a number of traditions that take place with unerring frequency every year. Spoof stories reliably trick gullible readers every April Fools’ Day and Parliament’s annual summer recess brings ‘silly season’ stories of cats in dustbins and sharks off Cornwall. Autumn however, heralds the usual outrage at the year’s Turner Prize entries from various columnists whose appreciation of art seems to end at paintings of bowls of fruit. Thankfully for the rest of us, it looks like a vintage year. The shortlist will all be hoping to emulate the likes of Grayson Perry, Tracy Emin and Damien Hirst in winning modern British art’s most coveted prize. 5th October - 2nd January www.londontown.com/LondonInformation www.tate.org.uk/britain/turnerprize Les Deux Salons Will Smith and Anthony Demetre, the team behind the Michelin Starred Arbutus and Wild Honey, are opening a third restaurant this autumn. Located on William IV Street, Les Deux Salons will offer big and bold French brasserie-style cuisine over two floors. The duo has enlisted the services of interiors guru Martin Brudnizki who has previously worked his design magic on the Dean Street Townhouse and the Club at the Ivy. Early photos suggest the interior will be as tasty as the food. 42-44 William IV Street, Covent Garden, London WC2 www.lesdeuxsalons.co.uk
top The Otolith Group. Still from Otolith III 2009 © The Otolith Group 2009 above left Angela De La Cruz. Ready to Wear, 1999 Oil on canvas. Courtesy the artist and Lisson Gallery above right Death of David Kelly, 2008. © Dexter Dalwood Courtesy of Gagosian Gallery. Photo credit: Dave Morgan bottom The Parlour. Canary Wharf
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New luxury hotel Opening in early 2011, the new Corinthia Hotel is set to become one of London’s top luxury hotels. The £270 million development on Whitehall Place will include 294 rooms and suites and be home to London’s largest spa and wellbeing centre. The Corinthia will feature a specialty seafood restaurant which will be opened by the celebrated Roman chef Massimo Riccioli whose La Rosetta is renowned as one of Italy’s finest restaurants. Whitehall Place, London SW1 0207 9308181 www.corinthialondon.com
Dining & Relaxing Following the success of his Boisdale ventures in Belgravia and Bishopsgate, Ranald Macdonald is opening a new flagship bar and restaurant in Canary Wharf. Boisdale of Canary Wharf is sticking to its siblings’ winning formula of good food, great whisky, cool jazz and fine cigars in a stridently Scottish setting. It has certainly set its sights high, aiming to become one of the world’s premier whisky bars and jazz venues. However, we think it will quickly become one of Canary Wharf’s top destinations. www.boisdale.co.uk Cabot Place West, Canary Wharf London E14 Fashion The venerable old British label Aquascutum is opening a new boutique in Canary Wharf to add to their flagship shop on Regent Street. Located in Cabot Square, the shop aims to solve what it describes as fashion’s perennial fashion problem: how to look elegant in the hustle and bustle of city life. Thankfully their classic understated heritage tailoring principles and craftsmanship are being upheld by its new Design Director Joanna Sykes who joined the company this summer. Expect to see plenty of Aquascutum’s trademark trench coats around Canary Wharf soon. Cabot Place, Canary Wharf London E14 0203 0698790 www.aquascutum.co.uk The Parlour We have been fans of The Parlour’s inventive cocktail menu since it opened its doors last year. Not ones to rest on their laurels however, they have introduced an exciting new addition to the menu for this winter: the spiced apple toddy. Ideal for a cold winter evening, the cognacbased cocktail carries a large dose of apple with spicy notes of cinnamon and liquorice and is served hot in individual Thermos flasks. Perfect to warm up with after a session on the ice rink. www.theparlourbar.co.uk The Park Pavilion 40 Canada Square Park London E14
city diary
City Diary When Boswell quoted Samuel Johnson, “By seeing London, I have seen as much of life as the world can show,” it plucked the right chord with International Life. Like our readers, we’re striving to stay faithful to Johnson’s revelation by showcasing this great metropolis. Where better to realise this than the City of London?
above Bar Battu, Gresham St
Fine Wines Newly opened on Gresham Street is Bar Battu, which claims to be the City’s first ‘natural wine’ bar. For a wine to be considered natural, it must have been made in as pure and simple a fashion as possible, using no additives or technology. The artisan wines that the process produces vary considerably but are always very exciting. In addition to the wide selection of wines - around 100 different bins - there is a menu of hearty French dishes cooked by former Galvin Bistrot de Luxe chef, Sydney Aldridge. We’re sure the Square Mile’s first natural wine bar is actually Terroirs on William IV Street. Anyone beg to differ? www.barbattu.com 48 Gresham Street, London EC2 0207 0366100
Coolest boutique Hotel The Zetter in Clerkenwell is one of London’s most impressive boutique hotels. However, its restaurant, the Bistrot Bruno Loubet, is the real star of the show. Loubet’s authentic French bistrot cuisine has been lauded by critics and the restaurant was recently voted the third best in the UK at the National Awards. It can only be a matter of time before the Bistrot Bruno Loubet is awarded its first Michelin star so it is worth trying it as soon as possible. The hotel offers packages which include a three course meal in the restaurant, a night in one of the Zetter’s superior rooms and breakfast, from £345. www.thezetter.com St John’s Square, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1 0207 3244444
Fine Tailoring City-based tailors branch out into Asia. Building on the success of their flagship shop off Cornhill, and their two premises on Savile Row and Canary Wharf, Cad and the Dandy are opening a shop in Shanghai. Maybe it’s a counter move in the name of authenticity against the eastern copies one sees flooding the City. Don’t think that this means the former bankers will be taking their eyes off their London operations. Their impressive range, coupled with their knowledge of what city workers want, will ensure that they will be reaping some of the spoils of the £7bn bonuses paid out in the Square Mile this year. www.cadandthedandy.co.uk 4 Castle Court, London EC3 0207 2831975
below left, then right City-based tailors, Cad and the Dandy The Zetter in Clerkenwell
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Dining
Review / Bar Boulud Iqbal Wahhab runs the rule over Michelin heavyweight, Daniel Boulud and his latest venture at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel and enjoys a near perfect dining experience
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few years back I was staying in one of those achingly trendy new mid town Manhattan hotels where the doormen are too busy posing in their Donna Karan gear to help you get your luggage out of the taxi. On my first morning there I switched on the news from a local channel and the first
another with two stars and then this and more recently his best contribution to New York yet in Bar Boulud. The clever folk at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Knightsbridge have hired him to produce a replica of that for us in London and it’s rapidly become the hottest ticket in London. There’s a sprawling bar and about
(smothered in oozing, runny Morbier cheese and served in a brioche) as it epitomises how cleverly Boulud has merged the Parisian brasserie with a smart New York diner. There’s so much on the menu you want to eat - probably why I have eaten there four times in three weeks. As well as the
Paulo de Tarso runs a seamless service - so good that I got irritated by the lack of flaws item was about a New York restaurant that was serving a hamburger for $50. It turned out the restaurant was in my hotel so I arranged to meet some friends of mine there for lunch that day to try it out. It had fore-rib as one of three cuts of beef in it, a centre of fois gras and truffles on top and was one of the most memorably over-the-top things I’ve ever eaten. Its creator Daniel Boulud was in the dining room that day and was lapping up the applause he received for this absurdly fine creation. Boulud reigns supreme in New York - he has a three Michelin star restaurant,
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150 seats in a smart casual set of dining rooms with deep and dark woods, as well as great views of the kitchen and its many varied hanging smoked meats. The chefs are either very quiet or the customers are very noisy. On my first visit I went with the intention of trying their charcuterie but got blown off course by a day special of Madagascar prawns which were huge, juicy and drizzled with lemon, olive oil and garlic, just as nature had intended. There’s much debate among BB groupies as to which of the three burgers on offer here is the best and I recommend the Frenchie
classics of coq au vin and fruits de mer, there is a sausage menu. What a great idea and how come others don’t do this? Bar Boulud opened with a flourish and flair that restaurants don’t usually manage to get right especially at the beginning but the charming man in charge Paulo de Tarso runs a seamless service - so good that I got irritated by the lack of flaws and the effortless ease which restaurateurs dream of. On my last visit I was delighted a waiter made a mistake and served me sparkling water rather than still. I couldn’t bear to think there was such a thing as a perfect restaurant.
dining
Review / Salloos Iqbal Wahhab returns to an old haunt and it revives the same affection he had for its unfashionably, no-nonsense style
It’s never made a song and dance about itself - it doesn’t even have its own website, it doesn’t look like much and every few years I break my vow never to go back to GET fleeced again
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bout 30 years ago the gentle folk of Knightsbridge found and kept a tiny little gem of a secret. Perched in a little mews road was Salloos, an extremely expensive Pakistani restaurant for Pakistanis with extremely expensive tastes. It’s never made a song and dance about itself - it doesn’t even have its own website, it doesn’t look like much and every few years I break my vow never to go back to get fleeced again. In the first floor restaurant they have now put air conditioning, though anyone waiting in the bar at ground level - more of a sofa than a bar - gets treated to a table fan. Having Muslim owners is probably why there is such a poor drinks list and only one wine by the glass. So people don’t come to Salloos for the drinks, the branding, the location or the prices (more about which later). That just leaves food. Pakistanis like their meat. A lot. A friend of mine told me that on a PIA flight he was served a meal which had rice in the middle, a lamb curry on one side and instead of vegetables or dal on the other, there was chicken. I remember visiting the biggest food market in Karachi once and saw masses of lamb and mutton stands, a fair few baskets with live chickens (you can’t get fresher than that) and an area selling vegetables which was about the size of a postage stamp. The Salloos menu reflects that.
Tandoori lamb chops are one of the universe’s greatest creations and here they are a particularly fine starter - not burned to death as you often get, moist with less aggressive spicing than you would find in an Asian area cafe. Chicken shish kebabs come cutely hanging from a contraption whose day job looks like it’s an office tidy. My glamorous dining companion only eats halal meat and so she had no reference point when I said that these dishes would have tasted so much better if halal butchers sourced from better farms. The killer main course is Haleem a classic Mughal dish said to have been invented in the 17th century by the emperor Shah Jahan to feed the thousands of people working on the erection of the Jama Masjid in Delhi. It’s a slow cooked hearty broth made with pulses, grains and lamb cooked for so long it disintegrates. Many have it for breakfast but that will never take off here, especially when it’s garnished with raw ginger, onions and chillies. It’s quite an astounding dish and as a good a version as you’re likely to find in London. So - back to the reason I don’t go so often. The lamb chop starter - how much do you reckon? £5, £7? Nope - £23.90. I love the fact that it’s £23.90 as if a scientific process has gone into the calculation of what the restaurant needs to sell it for. I don’t love the fact that every time I go back, I have it again. www.internationallife.tv/food-drink
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gods
Basket of the
Rebecca Gonsalves fills up her shopping basket with epicurean delicacies and revels in disclosing the extravagant numerals on her receipt
N MANNI oil two 100ml bottles
above the Manuka flower Manuka Honey production from a single beehive
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o longer considered to be at the bottom of the food chain, England is becoming a country of proud gastronomes. We recently brought you news that some of us are willing to pay £21 for our daily bread. Here are a few more treats to add to your shopping list. Tinned food doesn’t always connote epicurean bliss. Or does it? The storecupboard staple is now prolonging the pleasures of high quality seasonal goods. Try tinned Chatka King Crab for example. At £23.95 for 150g you’ll find it in Foodie Mecca, Harvey Nichols’ Foodmarket. The tins are packed with select white crab meat from the clear waters off the coast of Thailand. Caught at the peak of the season, the creamy flesh comes in large tender chunks. Chatka promises a minimum of 60 percent leg meat in every can. Another noteworthy import is Manni’s organically farmed extra virgin olive oil. Harvested under the dry heat of the Tuscan sun, the estate’s exclusive method of extraction combines the tradition of Tuscan olive oil culture with modern scientific research. Their ‘Live Oil’ has a wonderful bouquet and velvet texture, making it robust enough to stand up against the fullest of Mediterranean flavours. Available exclusively from the estate via temperature and pressure controlled shipping, a minimum purchase of one litre is around £188. Anyone who has travelled over the pond will know that the Americans have confectionery licked. Florida based IT Sugar proves candy is dandy. Their £39.95 gummy bear weighs two kilos and is thought to be the largest of its kind in the world. Available exclusively through
Selfridges, this 34cm tall teddy is the equivalent of 1400 regular bears. Gone are the days when a jar of instant would do. Fresh coffee has long been established as a staple of modern living. One of the stranger imports to make its way to Britain is “Kopi Luwak” or Civet Coffee to you and me. Harrods exclusive Doi Chaang Wild Civet coffee beans have been spat through the digestive track of a wild civet, a small nocturnal animal that forages a Thai village in search of the sweetest and ripest coffee cherries. 100 percent organic, single-origin Arabica beans pass through the civet whole after fermenting in the stomach, giving the coffee its exceptional taste and aroma. If the thought of civet coffee leaves a bitter taste in your mouth, try the exclusive Active Manuka Honey by New Zealand based Your Pure Honey. Offering the world’s only unblended Manuka honey, it comes from a single beehive rather than hundreds, as is common. This exclusivity gives the honey a rich and unique flavour. Your Pure Honey offer exclusive ownership of a hive for £1,690, guaranteeing production of 20kg of nectar. Alternatively, Limited Edition individual jars from the previous year’s harvest can be purchased for £42 for 500g. Any foodie worth their salt knows there is more to seasoning than simple table fare. Instead of reaching for standard rock salt try some of the best British artisan products on the market. The Anglesey Sea Salt Co’s range harvests from pure charcoal-filtered sea water, drawn from Wales’ Menai Straits. Marrying centuries-old craft techniques with modern technology, the process produces flat fragile flakes. Flagship product Pure Halen Môn sea salt will make a superb addition
food & drink
Active Manuka Honey... the world’s only unblended Manuka honey, it comes from a single beehive Themed Biscuiteers selections
to your dinner table. Few people know that vodka is traditionally distilled from potatoes. Even fewer know that the best vodka in the world is produced in England from potatoes grown on William Chase’s Herefordshire farm. Crowned World’s Best Vodka at the San Francisco Spirits Competition in March this year, blind taste tests singled out Chase Vodka for a Double Gold Medal. Not just any old spuds, the distillery uses Maris Piper, Lady Claire and Lady Rosetta potatoes. Unique handcrafted copper batch pots produce a true connoisseur’s vodka. And finally for those who turn their nose up at premium biscuit selections can now seek their crumb of comfort from ‘Biscuiteer’ and place a themed order online. There’s also the option to skip the ‘say it with flowers’ gesture and send a cool selection to a grateful recipient. Stockists: IT Sugar Gummy Bear: Selfridges £39.95 Chase Vodka 70cl: Fortnum & Mason £32.95 Doi Chaang Wild Civet Coffee 50g: Harrods £24.95 Chatka King Crab Meat 150g: Harvey Nichols £23.95 Your Pure Honey 500g: yourpurehoney.com £42 MANNI oil two 100ml bottles: www.manni.biz €46 Pure Halen Môn: Waitrose £6 Pure Halen Môn
Themed ‘Biscuiteers’ selections www.biscuiteers.com
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books
Bibliotherapy Spa days have long been the remedy of choice for a weary body but what about a worn out mind? Frazzled brains seeking cultural rejuvenation might head to Bath, a town historically associated with healing and relaxation. Victoria Maw says ditch the baths and instead indulge in a spot of bibliotherapy, botox for the brain, at Mr B’s Emporium of Reading Delights.
Xmas reading list A comfy armchair, crackling fire and a good book is a hard-to-beat combination. Stuck for winter reading material? Luckily we’ve got five suggestions to suit every kind of reader. 1. Sunset Park by Paul Auster (Faber and Faber) - The brilliant American novelist‘s latest book is set in foreclosure-hit Florida. Love, forgiveness and a challenging father/ son relationship are addressed.
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lthough Mr B’s customers will find a roll top bath, it is filled with books rather than bubbles, and treatment packages are likely to be ministered by Mr B, a former city lawyer turned independent bookshop owner, rather than a white-coat-clad beautician. Mr B’s Extravagant Reading Spa Treatment, £100, includes a cup of tea and slice of cake from a local deli, a 60 minute ‘book-chat’ discussing likes and dislikes and the chance to wallow next to the huge pile of books that one of the bibliotherapists will fetch for you. At the end of the session, customers go home with £75 worth of shiny new books, prescribed to meet their own literary needs. Co-owner Nic Bottomley says: “It is a very tailored experience that gives people space to think about books for themselves. It provides customers with an introduction to authors that they haven’t heard of and it is a chance to find new authors that the customer is particularly likely to like, based on their knowledge so far.”
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However, if a rushed lunch break is about all the time you can spare your troubled mind (shame on you), the School of Life, a trendy social enterprise based in central London also offers a bibliotherapy service. One-on-one conversations about your “reading life” result in a prescription for future reading material. They can create a reading list for a specific travel adventure or to indulge your childhood nostalgia. They’ll even do it over Skype if you can’t bear to leave the office. Alternatively, Mr B’s has launched another unique programme, the ‘reading year’, offering readers one book a month for a year. Like the spa, the reader answers a series of questions about their reading habits and tastes to ensure that they get a book that they will enjoy. The books are posted each month, wrapped in brown paper and string, with a hand-written note explaining why the book has been picked. Rather a good Christmas present for a book addict near you. www.mrbsemporium.com www.theschooloflife.com
2. Super Sad True Love Story by Gary Shteyngart (Granta) - This futuristic novel is both frightening and funny. Imagine a world where your vital data statistics (from creditworthiness to hotness) are available to all and books are shunned for being smelly artefacts. 3. HG Wells Complete Short Story Omnibus (Orion) - The most comprehensive collection of HG Well’s stories yet. Hailed as the “father of sci-fi”, Wells has been a source of inspiration for the modern genre. 4. Luka and the Fire of Life by Salman Rushdie (Jonathan Cape) - Rushdie wrote a book for his first son, Haroun and the Sea of Stories, in 1990, and this fantasy fairytale is a gift for his second son, Luka, to mark his 12th birthday. 5. Justin Bieber: First Step 2 Forever: My Story by Justin Bieber (Harper Collins) - One for the Christmas stocking of your favourite tweeny? The floppy-haired pop sensation writes his life story...aged 16.
t h e n e w c o n t i n e n t a l g t. a f u s i o n o f e x t r e m e s .
Welcome to a new chapter in Bentley history. The new Continental GT – a remarkable fusion of breathtaking performance, sensuous luxury and modern technology. This stunningly sculpted coupe’s sharp features are indicative of Bentley’s DNA. It harnesses an incredibly powerful 567bhp (575PS, 423kW) FlexFuel W12 engine sporting innovative capabilities for everyday driving. This is matched with an exquisitely handcrafted, contemporary interior
to ensure you are transported by all-wheel drive across countries and continents in superior comfort and elegance. Supreme motoring that is unmistakably Bentley. Welcome to the new Continental GT. Fuel economy figures* for the Continental GT in mpg (l/100km): Urban 11.1 (25.4); Extra Urban 24.9 (11.4); Combined 17.1 (16.5). CO2 Emissions (g/km): 384.
For information call +44 (0) 1270 535032 or visit www.bentleymotors.com. * Fuel consumption figures are provisional and subject to Type Approval. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2010 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Continental GT.