ISSUE 3, 2013
STANDARD
CAPITALS OF TAILORING
DESTINATION SRI LANKA
FROM FLAX TO LINEN
INITIAL DENIM SUMMER 2013
From Savile Row to Tehran
Relaxing on the beaches of Sri Lanka
The mystery behind linen production
New fabric selections for summer
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EDITORIAL DIRECTORS
CONTRIBUTORS
Michael McAtomney Hannah Byrne
DESIGN & LAYOUT Hannah Byrne
PHOTOGRAPHY Elisabeth Willis elisabethwillis.com Sidney Coombes ww.sidneycoombes.com Toby Oxborrow Isamiga Diana Twist Mark Smith
ILLUSTRATIONS Linda Luo behance.net/llinda
WRITERS Hannah Byrne Michael McAtomney Andrew Byrne Justin Hertzman Dan Young Ben Messina William Goodsall-Smith
THE CLOAKROOM Andrew Byrne Louis Ialenti Ben Messina Mitchell Humphris Lachlan Sinclair
ON THE COVER
Pistols at Dawn's SS/14 collection Photo by Elisabeth Willis
* Special thanks to Averil Campbell
The Cloakroom 104 Edward St. Brisbane, QLD 4000 617 3210 1515 www.thecloakroom.com.au
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or a fabric so revered for its unique properties, it seems little is known of linen’s origins. Linen is not a derivative of cotton as many assume, but is in fact made from the fibres of the flax plant. Flax fiber is soft, lustrous, and flexible and bundles have the appearance of blonde hair, and it is from here that we get the term "flaxen," as in flaxen braids or locks. When expertly woven, linen fabric has a natural sheen and vibrancy and as a result feels sleek and smooth against the skin. Linen was traditionally blended with other natural fibres but in recent decades has been surpassed in use by synthetic fibres, producing inferior fabric. Linen is now making a strong resurgence with interesting and luxuriant blends such as linen woven with cashmere which creates an unrivalled look and feel. The manufacturing process is a delicate and lengthy one and consequently linen can not be mass-produced. It is, however, one of the most efficiently grown fibres with little to no waste. By-products are used to make flax oil, soap, paint, paper, and cattle feed. Flax is grown using less pesticides than other crops and most harvests can be stamped as “organic” whether they
have applied for certification or not. Flax thrives in cool damp conditions and grows best in the belt from Northern France to Belgium and up to The Netherlands. Flax is an annual plant so crops must be replanted after each harvest. Crops take just 100 days to grow and they bloom in magnificent colour for just one of these days. As the blossoms start to turn brown, the flax is ready to harvest. Traditionally flax was harvested by hand, ensuring that threads were as long as possible, running the length of the stem. Modern harvesters are more efficient and timely, but threads are consequently shorter and of a lesser quality. Mills that still harvest by hand are prized for their lustrous and supple threads. Once harvested, the flax is stacked and left in the field to dry before the plant is beaten to separate the seeds. The fibres are then exposed to the elements with rain rotting the pectins that bind them together. This was sped up in the past by retting (or rotting) the flax in rivers, but this process was damaging to the environment and is therefore no longer practiced. Flax lies in the field for several weeks, slowly decomposing. The fibres are once again beaten separating the straw.
Longer fibres are more sought after and used to create more delicate fabrics. Shorter fibres are used to make coarser yarn used for aprons and domestic products. The fibres are divided into groups of equal length and strength and then spun on looms. Long fibres are spun wet, giving them a sheen that the coarser fibres lack. Linen is a unique fabric. The more it is worn, the stronger and softer it becomes. The more it is used, the less prone it is to wrinkling. Linen is one of the oldest fabrics and Egyptian mummies were entombed in layers of linen as a sign of wealth and purity. Uses of Flax transcend the textile and clothing industry and recent advancements in processing and technology have unlocked a diverse range of applications. New applications include use of flax in the auto industry, furniture manufacture and even housing construction. As well as being much lighter than comparable materials, flax-based technical textiles have unique properties including thermal and acoustic insulation. New technologies see flax being mixed with polymers to create materials with unique properties that provide solutions that are both better performing, but also much more environmentally efficient.
I R I S H L I N E N Flax was originally grown in Ireland but due to climate, is now grown most in Northern France, Belgium and Holland. In 1921 40% of the registered working Irish population were employed by the linen industry with a mill in nearly every town or village. There are now only 10 major linen produces in the country. Since the 1950s and 60s flax has been imported to Ireland and for fabric to be stamped as “Irish Linen,” it must be 100% woven in Ireland using only flax yarn.
"L I N E N S" Linen is commonly used to make sheets, pillowcases and tablecloths and during the Middle Ages, these items started being referred to as “linens.” Brides were given a "Hope Box" by female family members, full of linens for her new home. Linen is 2-3 times stronger than cotton and is lint free with it’s polished surface repelling dirt and dust. Linen is allergenic and also resistant to moths and carpet beetles. The US dollar is made from 25% linen and 75% cotton.
L I N E N I N A I RC RA F T During WWI and WWII, linen was used to strengthen aircraft. Untreated linen was stretched over the entire plane and then shrunk to ensure that the craft was as aerodynamic as possible. It was easy to repair and grounded airmen could stitch up their aircrafts, so to speak, with needle and thread. One of the major downsides of using linen was the fact that the fabric is flammable. These days, aluminium is used.
T H E C LOA K RO O M S TA N DA R D
PRODUCING LINEN FROM FLAX Words by Hannah Byrne Photos by Isamiga & Diana Twist
F LAX F I B E R I S S O F T, L U S T RO U S A N D F L E X IB L E A N D B U N D L E S H AV E T H E A P P E A RA N C E O F B LO N D E H A I R, A N D I T I S F RO M H E R E T H AT W E G E T T H E T E R M "F LAX E N."
T H E M O R E L I N E N I S WO R N, T H E S T RO N G E R A N D S O F T E R I T B E CO M E S. T H E M O R E I T U S E D, T H E L E S S W R I N K L E D I T I S.
T RA D I T I O N A L LY F LAX WA S H A RV E S T E D B Y H A N D, E N S U R I N G T H AT T H R E A D S W E R E A S LO N G A S PO S S I B L E, R U N N I N G T H E L E N G T H O F T H E S T E M.
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TAILORING CAPITALS Words by Hannah Byrne & Michael McAtomney Photo by Toby Oxborrow
S AV I L E ROW For many, bespoke means one thing – Savile Row. Savile Row is the birthplace of the modern day suit, now worn the world over. The history of the suit can be dated back to the 19th century coinciding with the move away from frilly doublets, colourful satins, lace and elaborate gowns. The term “gentleman” was coined during this time as men started wearing more masculine attire. Tailors began tracing the shape of the human form, creating clothes to fit the lines and contours of the body. Fit became of the utmost importance and tailors who could achieve clean, sharp silhouettes were sought after. A linen draper named James Poole volunteered for the military and, like all volunteers, was responsible for his own uniform. He cut himself a well-tailored outfit, which was envied by his peers who soon commissioned him to make them similar uniforms. He later set up shop to start his own tailoring business. James apprenticed his son Henry who later became the first tailor on Savile Row and is said to have invented the dinner jacket. Henry expanded the company by tapping into the hunting crowd, creating bolder more colourful outfits than those that men wore day-to-day. King Edward VII ruled during this period (1901-1910) and was notorious for his well-cut clothes - some of which were made by James Poole. Edward was the first royal to live and travel during the dawn of photography and newspaper images captured him touring the world in his distinctive apparel. Images such as these influenced men far and wide who started flocking to Savile Row
looking to imitate his style. The Edwardian period was one of wealth, innovation and advancement. The British Empire was far reaching and its sartorial influence could be seen throughout Europe, Asia, America and the colonies. England was at this time the style capital of the world and the idea of the British gentleman was one that was sought after. More tailors flocked to Savile Row and "The Golden Mile of Tailoring" flourished as they dressed movie stars, royalty and politicians. The term ‘bespoke’ derives from the Savile Row tradition of saying a cloth ordered by a client was said to have ‘been spoken for.’ Bespoke suits are handmade and cut individually for each customer. They involve a cutter laboriously making a pattern and several fittings as the suit is painstakingly constructed panel by panel. In recent decades Savile Row has lost some of its prestige as chain stores like Abercrombie & Fitch have moved into the street. High rent has taken its toll and several tailors have moved away to save on overheads. However, there has also been a resurgence and demand for bespoke suits. This movement has been lead by design houses such as Richard James and Norton & Sons who seek to dress a younger, more fashion savvy demographic. Richard James is a newcomer on the Row, setting up shop as late as 1992, much to the chagrin of older more established houses. James was looked down upon for his modern styling as well as for controversially opening on weekends, hosting catwalk shows and cutting only single-breasted suits. James has focused on clean, form fitting
silhouettes in bold and bright colours with slim-fit suits of only one or two buttons and he has drawn inspiration from the likes of Tom Ford and Heidi Slimane for a style that epitomizes the new movement of modern bespoke wear. Older houses such as Norton & Sons (founded in 1821) have joined this movement, finding ways to enthuse a younger demographic of suit wearers. Patrick Grant acquired Norton & Sons in 2005 and energetically set about to re-brand and re-launch the brand. Grant streamlined production with a team of just seven tailors and 3 cutters who produce no more than 350 bespoke suits per year. Like Richard James, Norton and Sons have focused on suits with a clean and minimal silhouette and created a level of exclusivity by capping production output. Other notable newcomers on the Row include Ozwald Boateng who opened a flagship store in 2002. His attention-grabbing suits are bright, flashy and bring a younger, braver following to the street. Tailoring veterans Kilgour (established 1882) appointed Carlo Brandelli as creative director in 2002 and Brandelli’s runway debut featured collarless dinner jackets, visible bright piping and the pairing of tuxedos with basic knitted sweaters. During his 6-year stint with Kilgour he was unwavering in taking the heritage company in a new direction, creating garments more relevant and appealing to a younger market. This new bespoke renaissance has ensured the survival and growth of Savile Row and the bespoke suit. Older more traditional houses continue to prosper on the Row alongside more fashion conscious tailors.
NOTABLE SUITING TERMS H O N G KO N G
M I LA N
When the English settled in Shanghai after the first Opium War (183942) they brought with them teams of tailors. Sailing times between Asia and Britain were long and arduous and it made sense to bring their suit makers. Hong Kong teenagers apprenticed as a means of escaping poverty and it took them a painstaking 6-9 years before they graduated. This involved several years spent focusing on a garment with at least 2-3 years to perfect the intricacies of a jacket. Expats living in Asia traveled to Hong Kong for high quality tailored suits reminiscent of what they could buy back in London. Hong Kong still has a thriving apparel industry with entire districts dedicated to tailoring and some of the most revered houses of the 21st Century located on these busy streets. Hong Kong still remains one of the fabric hubs of the world, attracting the very best cloth from every corner of the globe. The Cloakroom has 2 teams (suiting and shirting) of tailors in Hong Kong and an office to run the operation.
Milanese tailors are somewhat understated and, despite being influenced by neighbouring Parisian couturiers, they tend to focus more on fabric, simplicity, and the high quality of their craft. Milan is a fashion capital for ready-towear brands, yet menswear tailors still account for a respectable share of the apparel industry. Throughout the late 19th Century there were many smaller workshops, as opposed to larger design houses, which led to a very diversified market. With close proximity to some of the leading fabric producers throughout the world, Milan is seen as an esteemed tailoring city.
OT H E R N OTA B L E S G U L F CO U N T R I E S: Traditionally worn in Gulf countries there are several names for the Arabic robe including thobe, dishdasha and thawb. The style, fabric and cut of the thobe varies between nations and there are many made-to-measure thobe tailors who create customised garments. It is currently popular for younger men to choose flashier more form fitting thobes with decorative details such as cuff links, hidden buttons, zippers and piping. Luxury brands including Versace, Tom Ford, Givenchy and Fendi have all created thobe collections. There is a niche market for luxury thobes especially in the more affluent Gulf countries such as Saudi Arabia. I RA N: Rule under the Islamic Republic of Iran discourages western influence and it is illegal for shops to sell neckties as they are seen as a sign of western decadence. Many shops continue to sell them however and it is not uncommon for an Iranian man to wear a tie to a wedding, party or formal occasion. Old tailoring houses still exist on streets such as the once popular Lalehzar and also Enghelab Street. Customers are measured and able to order suits by looking through Western fashion magazines, choosing the style they desire.
C ROW S F O OT S T I TC H I N G Also known as “fleur de lis,� this stitching method is used to attach buttons. The thread is sewn from the first hole in a straight line and then from the first hole, diagonally to either side. The crow's foot can distinguish whether a button has been sewn on by hand or by machine. N E O PO L I TA N S H O U L D E R This construction method originated in Naples and describes the process whereby the sleeve is pleated (shirred) before it is sewn onto the jacket at the sleevehead. It is rather tricky to create, as the tailor must line up the evenly spaced pleats before attaching. Although some purists relish a soft shoulder and the drape it creates, it is generally regarded as unnecessary and effeminate. S O M E T I M E S A LWAY S N E V E R King Edward VII had such a large girth later in life that he was unable to button the bottom button of his jacket or waistcoat. His court soon emulated him and the fashion became to wear a jacket with the lowest button always unfastened. When wearing a 3-button suit, the top button should always be done up, the 2nd button sometimes and the lowest button never. SUPER NUMBERS Probably one of the most misunderstood systems that governs how fabric is graded, 'Super Numbers' refer to the diameter of the yarn and have nothing to do with fabric weight. As yarn gets finer, the Super Number increases and so does the price. A yarn with a diameter of 18.5 microns is graded as Super 100s, 15.5 microns is graded as Super 150s, 13.5 microns is Super 180s etc. As the yarn gets finer, the fabric has a silkier feel and tends to drape better over the body. The only downside is that finer wool is more delicate and doesn’t wear with the same longevity as a coarser or thicker yarn. As much as the yarn diameter is a measure of the quality of wool, there are many other contributing factors, including the fibre length. Fabrics with a longer fibre (worsted wool) have a more consistent weave, carry colour much better and are stronger.
THE HUMAN COST OF MANUFACTURING Words by Hannah Byrne Illustrations by Linda Luo Armani and Michael Kors all manufacture clothing in Bangladesh at a fraction of what it would cost in a safe and fair working environment. Aid organisations call for basic work conditions, realistic minimum wages and safe, clean and hazard-free factories. Alternatively, if it is no longer profitable for foreign companies to manufacture overseas, these developing countries suffer. Economic growth in the 'Tiger' countries of Hong Kong, South Korea, Singapore, and Taiwan have all profited from foreign
SLAVERY $90 The average cost of a slave today. During slavery days in the USA, slaves were sold for around $40,000 (in today's dollars) but this price has since plummeted.
$40,000
SWEATSHOP
A working environment considered not to be safe or to have fair working conditions.
55% The percentage of slaves that are women
2007
25%
Mauritania banned slavery, the last country to do so. Russia abolished slavery in 1723 (although still had serfs). In 1787 Sierra Leone was founded by the United Kingdom as a colony for freed slaves.
The percentage of slaves that are children
25,000 The estimated number of migrants workers (mostly from China) that work in sweatshops in Northern Italy. These workers are trafficked from China and it takes them up to 4 years to pay back their trafficking debts. Companies label clothing “Made in Italy” but pay sweatshop wages and run factories under sweatshop-like conditions. Wu, Bin discussion paper 28, Vulnerability of Chinese Migrant Workers in Italy; Emperical Evidence on their Working Conditions and the Consequences, China House University of Nottingham, March 2008.
1,129 The number of workers killed when the Rana Plaza building collapsed in Bangladesh, April 2013. Approximately 2500 were injured. The building housed a bank, shops and clothing factories. After cracks were found in the roof and walls, all businesses were evacuated except the clothing factories. The following day, the building collapsed. Benetton,
contracts. Often sweatshop workers have no other employment alternatives and for many, factory work is better than no work at all. An overview of conditions for apparel workers throughout Asia, as well as slavery worldwide, creates a context of the nature of the low-cost garment industry. Slavery is now abolished in every country and yet there are still an estimated 28-30 million slaves in the shadows. The disparity between these estimates is a cause of grave concern.
Bonmarché, Mango and Walmart all manufactured clothes there. It is the most deadly disaster to occur in the garment industry. The Wall Street Journal states that Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Armani and Michael Kors all produce garments in Bangladesh. Other companies include Zara, H&M, Gap and Walmart.
$38/MONTH
The average wage of a Bangladeshi garment worker. Workers are paid 14% of what they need to survive. Approximately 4 million Bangladeshis (80-85% women) work in the $20bn garment industry. 50% of Bangladesh garment exports go to the UK. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/09/21/bangladesh-wage-protest_n_3967390.html
28.9%
19.2% 23.7%
23.74% The decrease in wages in the Dominican Republic between 2001-2011. During this period, Mexican wages fell by 28.9% and Cambodian by 19.2%.
7 DAYS
http://www.americanprogress.org/ issues/labor/report/2013/07/11/69255/ global-wage-trends-for-apparelworkers-2001-2011/
The number of days each week that many sweatshop labourers are forced to work. With no maternity leave, children often live with their grandparents in rural areas while their mothers work to support the family.
$120/MONTH The cost of living in Bangladesh.
The year China opened up its economy and broke down agricultural collectivasation. People were free to move from poor rural areas to urban centres in the hope of finding work. The national system of social services operated by region so if you moved from your home town of region A to region B, you were no longer eligible for education, health or housing benefits. Many people found themselves living in squalor and so resorted to factory work and the measly wages that this paid. Many of these workers were women.
8
$90
197
W
orld attention focused on Bangladesh earlier this year when the Rana Plaza collapsed, exposing the country’s terrible factory conditions in the textile industry. Known for offering some of the cheapest products and labour in the world, Bangladesh is a sad example of the effects greed has upon its working citizens. Expensive retail prices often do not reflect the quality and workmanship of a garment. The Wall Street Journal recently reported that Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss,
T H E C LOA K RO O M S TA N DA R D
Russia 516,217
China 2,949,243 Pakistan 2,127,132 DR Congo 701,032
This map shows the 10 countries that have the most slaves worldwide. Things looks very different when we examine the number of slaves as a percentage of the population. Mauritania comes in worse with nearly 4% of its population enslaved. Africa fares badly with 5 of their nations in the list.
COUNTRY
Nigeria 701,032
Mauritania 3.99% Haiti 2.06% Pakistan 1.19% India 1.13% Nepal 0.94% Moldova 0.94% Benin 0.80% Cote de Ivorie 0.79% Gambia 0.78% Gabon 0.84%
The estimated number of slaves in the world today. This is the highest number in human history. M O D E R N D E F I N I T I O N O F S LAV E S:
Early or forced brides, debt bondage workers (who pay back resettlement fees that are compounded exponentially) forced labourers, child soldiers, people born into slavery, those who are trafficked across borders (70% are women and 50% minors) many of who are used as sex slaves.
15 MIL
The estimated number of slaves in Australia. Until recently, all were foreign nationals with many from Asian countries.
The cost of manufacturing in the USA versus the cost of manufacturing in Bangladesh:
3
2
$5
$3.30
1
0
168 MIL
Labour
The estimated number of child workers worldwide.
USA
Bangladesh
7
14
6
12
5
10
8
4 3
$7.47 $0.22
6
2
4
1
2
0
The estimated number of children working in India. Many of these are sold by their parents.
30 MIL
The estimated number of Dalits or “untouchables� in India that are bonded workers, paying off debts incurred up to centuries ago.
TOTAL
8
4
Thailand 472,811
28-30 MILLION
3,000-3,300
5
Burma 384,037
Bangladesh 343,192
PERCENTAGE OF SLAVES
Materials
India 13,956,010
Ethiopia 651,110
$12.47 $3.52
The average time that a slave remains in slavery. After this period, they usually escape, repay their debts or die.
6 YEARS
0
USA
Bangladesh
USA
Bangladesh
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DATA F RO M A B O L I T I O N M E D I A, C N N, A M E R I CA N P RO G R E S S, B U S I N E S S O F F A S H I O N, G LO B A L S LAV E RY I N D E X, T H E WA L L S T R E E T J O U R N A L, H U F F I N G TO N PO S T
INITIAL DENIM
SUMMER 2013
INITIAL DENIM Words by Ben Messina Photos by Elisabeth Willis
I
nitial Denim is the first Australian label to specialise in made-to-measure denim. Their current collection of fabric is of the highest quality and chosen with the Australian climate in mind. The Initial Denim team works closely with suppliers from around the world, sourcing the finest denims including traditional narrow-loom selvedge from Japan, soft canvas from Italy and a selection of mid-weight durable denim from America. Every detail of Initial Denim jeans is open to customisation and clients have the choice of buttons, rivets, thread colour, style and fit. The interactive process is a great alternative to the world of mass produced denim stacked on department store shelves. The team currently has a range of coloured canvas for Summer including fire engine red, cobalt blue and olive green which have all proven to be a great way to add colour to your wardrobe.
PA U L W E A R S: Initial Denim in Kuroki yellow selvedge $425 Pistols at Dawn blue oxford shirt $225 Carmina navy suede loafers $550 Initial Denim in green camouflage $325 Pistols at Dawn brown gingham shirt $295 Pistols at Dawn navy linen shirt $225
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WHERE WE'D RATHER BE: SRI LANKA Words by Dan Young & Andrew Byrne Photo by Elisabeth Willis & Ben Messina
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people had lost their lives. While the government has spent considerable effort marketing and promoting the island as a beautiful, and more importantly, safe holiday destination, Sri Lanka has steadily gained a desirable reputation through positive coverage in travel and social media. Last year, SBS aired a Sri Lanka series with native born chef Peter Kuruvita showcasing the local produce and highlighting the natural beauty of the island. It showed a side to the country that had been overshadowed by conflict and upheaval. Since peace was declared, the Sri Lankan government has made a concerted effort to address the negative image of the country. The army has not been downscaled, but instead has been re-appointed to the tourism industry, with soldiers now working in hotels, resorts and conducting whale-watching tours. Resorts are mar-
keted not only to foreigners but also to locals. It is estimated that over one million tourists visited the island in 2012 and with a tropical climate, renowned beaches, nine world heritage sites, and ancient cities to be explored, it is easy to see why. Sri Lanka is a predominantly Buddhist country and has incredible statues and religious sites that date back to the 5th century. For nature lovers, the rolling green hills of tea plantations and wild exotic animals such as the Asian elephant and Sri Lankan leopard provide plenty of fodder. Ben Messina, manager of Pistols at Dawn, recently took a 2-week trip to Sri Lanka. Traveling predominantly in the south, Ben visited the capital Colombo, the beautiful beaches of Tangalle, tea plantations in Hatton and enjoyed the Buddhist Esala Perahera Festival in Kandy.
IT IS ESTIMATED THAT OVER ONE MILLION TOURISTS VISITED THE ISLAND IN 2012 AND WITH A TROPICAL CLIMATE, RENOWNED BEACHES, NINE WORLD HERITAGE SITES, AND ANCIENT CITIES TO BE EXPLORED, IT IS EASY TO SEE WHY.
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2
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4
5
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I
n the last 7 years, Sri Lanka has gone from a country devastated by a 26-year long civil war to a popular tourist destination. Its natural beauty is unquestionable and it is fast becoming a holiday location where visitors can enjoy the wonders of nature with a degree of safety not seen for decades. Located southeast off the coast of India, Sri Lanka was originally a British colony before gaining independence in 1949 to become a democratic socialist republic. For centuries, the natural beauty of Sri Lanka attracted visitors from all corners of the globe. When ethnic tensions between the majority Sinhalese and Tamil minority reached boiling point in 1983 a bitter and enduring civil war broke out. Peace was achieved in 2009 when the Sri Lankan government regained control of all Tamil Tiger-held areas after an especially intense 3-year campaign, but not before 80-100,000
P H OTO S: 1,2,4: Private garden of Bevis Bawa’s property “Brief,” near Bentota 3: Monkeys playing on the Sigiriya rock temple, near Kandy 5: Buddha statues in the Dambulla cave temples, 70km from Kandy 6: The private grounds of Geoffrey Bawa’s property "Lunuganga," near Bentota 7: Tangalle beach 8: Ben's travel wardrobe
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SINCE PEACE WAS DECLARED, THE SRI LANKAN GOVERNMENT HAS MADE A CONCERTED EFFORT TO ADDRESS THE NEGATIVE IMAGE OF THE COUNTRY.
Jaffna
Mullaittivu Mankulam
Vavuniya Trincomalee
7
Anuradhapura
Batticaloa
Kandy
Negombo Colombo
Moneragala
Moratuwa
Ratnapura Hatton
Bentota Hambantota
Galle
Tangalle
Ben’s Sri Lanka trip
B E N'S T RAV E L WA R D RO B E:
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When planning his travel wardrobe, Ben took into consideration the heat of Sri Lanka but also the onset of summer in Australia. He chose lightweight cool fabrics such as linen and oxford cotton. Ben ordered shorts in vintage kimono cotton from Pistols at Dawn as well as a pair in brown linen. For shirting, he chose a more formal navy linen for nights and two casual daywear shirts in light brown and white oxford cotton.
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THE WORLD'S OLDEST BUSINESSES Words by Justin Hertzman
I
n an era of listed corporations whose sole aim is to satisfy demanding shareholders, it is interesting to discover that the world’s oldest businesses are all family run and have an entirely different set of principles and motivations that have ensured their survival for many centuries. The oldest of these companies is Kongo Kumi, originating from Japan over 1500 years ago. The Kongo Kumi family started constructing temples in 578 AD and was 40 generations old when they were acquired, after defaulting in 2006. Others contemporaries such as Beretta, Jose Cuervo, and Faber-Castell have managed to survive and evolve to changing tastes by not focusing on immediate growth, but rather on adaptation, innovatation and enduring sustainability. Count Anton Wolfgang of Faber-Castell says, “I am not interested in short-term
KONGO KUMI
578
This family run construction business started in 578 and their Buddhist Shitennoji Temple still stands after over 1,400 years. The company innovated constantly and when orders for temples started to dwindle after the Second World War, Kumi started building coffins. When the technology bubble burst in Japan in 2006, the company suffered with staggering debts and was eventually acquired by Takamatsu. Their legacy remains with famous buildings throughout Japan including the Osaka Castle.
HOSHI RYOKAN
717
In 717, the god of Mt. Hakusan came to a Buddhist priest in his sleep and told him where to uncover a hot spring with healing powers. The priest found the spring and appointed his disciple Garyo Saskiri to build and run a spa to heal local villagers. The Hoshi family built what is now the world’s oldest hotel on the site; currently managed by the 46th generation of the family. The family’s motto is: “Take care of fire, learn from water, co-operate with nature.”
“FOR A BUSINESS THAT WANTS TO BE SUCCESSFUL IN THE LONG TERM, THE ABILITY TO GENERATE SUSTAINED PROFIT IS ABSOLUTELY VITAL.” – COUNT ANTON WOLFGANG VON FABER- CASTELL.
“TAKE CARE OF FIRE, LEARN FROM WATER, CO - OPERATE WITH NATURE.” - THE MOT TO OF HOSHI RYOKAN.
1141
In 1141 the Barone Ricasoli family started what is believed to be Italy’s first, and the world’s second vineyard. The company is the fourth oldest in the world and is currently under its 32nd generation of management. Bettino Ricasoli, who later became Italy’s second prime minister, was instrumental in maintaining the history of the vineyard and resurrected the company from near bankruptcy. After over 30 years of research and development, Bettino created the modern recipe for the Chianti Classico. He was known for his careful management of money and was consequently nicknamed the Iron Baron.
profit-seeking. For a business that wants to be successful in the long term, the ability to generate sustained profit is absolutely vital. For me, business and integrity go hand in hand. The kind of integrity that embodies values, such as social and ecological responsibility, trust, honesty and fairness, is fully compatible with profitability.” Many family-run companies look to their peers for inspiration on how to succeed in a business environment dominated by corporate businesses. Hénokiens is a fraternity of companies that all boast 200 years or more of continuously being run by a family member. Representatives from each of the 38 members meet annually to offer encouragement on upholding family values as the primary way of running a business. Here is a look at some of the world's oldest and most successful family-run businesses. Kongo Kumi no longer operates but is worth mentioning.
In 1943, Germany seized the company and for two years, controlled manufacture. They produced weapons with the same excellent mechanisms but the aesthetic of the guns deteriorated greatly. The company was founded in 1526 and has survived 14 generations through innovation and a commitment to research and development. "What's happening in private equity doesn't affect us. Those bankers make a deal every day. We have been building a company over centuries," says Pietro Beretta. “If a family takes care of its workers, the workers will take care of the family." – Franco Beretta.
"THOSE BANKERS MAKE A DEAL EVERY DAY. WE HAVE BEEN BUILDING A COMPANY OVER CENTURIES." - PIETRO BERET TA.
1758
1526
Bartolomeo Beretta invented one of the world’s favourite guns, the Beretta pistol. Featured in James Bond movies and contracted by the US armed forces, the firearm is made with precision and care. Following in the footsteps of the US, the French Gendarmes, National Turkish Police Force and Italian Carabinieri all use Beretta pistols.
In 1758, before Mexico was a free country, the King of Spain granted José Antonio de Cuervo a piece of land in the village of Tequila. After years of prohibition, his son Jose Maria Guadalupe was given the first license to brew tequila commercially in 1795. The distillery is the oldest Mexican company and the number one producer of tequila worldwide. The family run company is well known for its philanthropy and social conscience. They are committed to enhancing the local communities that they work in and are dedicated to improving social, cultural, educa-
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tional and economical development. They promote responsible alcoholic consumption as well as sustainable development and growth.
1761
This German company was founded in 1761 when carpenter Kaspar Faber started making his own lead pencils in Nuremburg. One of Faber-Castell’s fiercest competitors Staedtler is also from the small city of Nuremburg and in the 1990’s the two companies battled in court for the title of the oldest pencil making company. Faber-Castell won and tension between the two rivals continues. Faber-Castell is known for its range of pens, pencils and writing tools and Vincent Van Gogh and Karl Lagerfield are famous Faber-Castell users. The family run company is managed by Count Anton Wolfgang Graf Faber-Castell, the 8th generation.
“BY THE END OF EVERY GENERATION, FAMILY FIRMS NEED TO HAVE BUILT A RESERVOIR OF TRUST, PRIDE AND MONEY SO THAT THE NEXT GENERATION HAS ENOUGH OF THEM TO MAINTAIN THE MOMENTUM OF THE BUSINESS AND THE SPIRIT OF THE FAMILY.” – JOHN DAVIS, HARVARD BUSINESS SCHOOL.
PISTOLS AT DAWN GARÇONS Photos by Sidney Coombes
P
istols at Dawn now stocks a collection of boy’s clothes in their Garçons line. Sizes range from 3 up to 12-years old with a selection of lightweight shirts and linen- cotton shorts and pants. All garments are fully handmade in the same high quality fabric used for Pistols at Dawn.
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K N I G H T L E Y W E A R S: Blue and white gingham shirt $90 Linen-cotton shorts in pink and blue check $90 Multi-coloured check shirt $90 Linen-cotton pants in purple $90 Blue and red check shirt $90 A big thanks to our model Knightley and also to Replica Furniture. Pistols at Dawn Garรงons is available at Shop 11, 46 James Street, Fortitude Valley, QLD.
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PISTOLS AT DAWN SUMMER 2013
PISTOLS AT DAWN Words by Michael McAtomney Photos by Elisabeth Willis
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hristmas has come early at Pistols at Dawn with the arrival of our new Summer wardrobe essentials. Standout jackets include a lightweight wool-linen puppy-tooth check in light grey, Dormeuil cotton jackets in navy and light blue and a new navy mohair travel jacket. There's also a new selection of vintage Yukata kimono fabric which is available for made-to-measure jackets as well as ready to wear limited edition shorts. The Summer selection of linen shirting is ideal as the humidity rises; available in vivid navy as well as light blue. And for everyone needing a classic t-shirt we now have a selection in plain colours. And as with all Pistols at Dawn garments everything is hand made.
DA N W E A R S: Sky blue jacket in Dormeuil cotton $1250 White oxford shirt $225 White pocket square $35 Tobacco cotton drill pants $395 Navy and brown gingham shirt $295 Kimono jacket in Yukata cotton $1295 Grey jacket in wool-linen puppytooth $1250 Navy linen shirt $225 Blue and white check pocket square $35
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AUSTRALIAN SUMMER WINES Words by William Godsall-Smith - sommelier at Tetsuya's, Sydney Photos by Mark Smith
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here are only a handful of grape varieties in the world of wine that evoke passion in winemakers, wine lovers and the casual drinker, but Riesling easily falls into this category. In its youth, Riesling is an aromatic wine with flavours of citrus, while in its maturity, it can be a richer more complex wine and makes a great accompaniment to seafood. Riesling has a long history with records from the German monastery Kloster Eberbach in the region of Rheingau, dating back to 1435. The first official Australian documentation of Riesling crops dates to 1841 and the variety currently grows in almost every
wine-producing region of the country. With over 500 Australian producers, it is one of the more important styles of wine and The Clare and Eden Valleys in South Australia are two of the regions most famous for Riesling production. These areas are known for a ‘bone dry’ style of Riesling, which has become Australia’s signature with the grape. However there are many more great producers outside of these zones in Victoria, New South Wales and Tasmania, who all craft Riesling of exceptional quality. The low sugar content in the Australian Riesling distinguishes it from its European counterparts (most notably Germany, Austria and France), making it a variety that both connoisseurs
and the average punter can enjoy. Aromas of citrus, lemons and limes usually characterise Riesling as well as white flowers such as orange blossom. It has a high acidity level on the palate and mineralisation that gives the wine a long lasting flavour and mouthfeel. It is a great accompaniment to seafood and in particular shellfish and sashimi dishes. There are many great producers in Australia and some notable Rieslings to look for this summer are the Henschke Julius (Eden Valley, SA), Crawford River (Henty, Vic), and the Grosset Springvale and Polish Hill Rieslings (Clare Valley, SA).
THE CLOAKROOM INVITES YOU TO THE LAUNCH OF THEIR ANNUAL CARMINA MADE-TO-ORDER SHOE EVENT Design your own shoes, choosing from a variety of styles, colours, leathers and finishes.
WHEN: Wednesday December 11th from 6.30pm Pistols at Dawn: Shop 11, 46 James St., Fortitude Valley * Not at our City store