Fall 2008 by penn appétit

Penn Appetit

Fall 2008 | Issue 3

Penn Appetit Editor-in-Chief Visual editor Design Editor assistant designer Publicity Chair Treasurer blog Editor

Emma Morgenstern olivia coffey brynn shepherd lucy medrich maria pellegrini susan Luo alex marcus

story editors Melissa braff michael chien alex marcus kristen martin karuna meda jamie png Copy Editors amber alhadeff melissa braff Celine kosian Karuna Meda Writers Amber Alhadeff Mary Catherine Craig KhĂ nh-Anh LĂ&#x160; Michelle Lee Jacinda Li Karuna Meda Alexia Nader Jamie Nichol Jamie Png David Winchell photographers Alyssa Birnbaum Michael Chien Olivia Coffey Katie Davidson Alice Gao Kendall Haupt David Knipp Rachel Stone Julia Wong edward zawadzki business staff Melody Chan Elise Dihlmann-Malzer Khanh-Anh Le John Meadows Kate Wiber Julia Wong cover photo by Rachel Stone website design by Cynthia Ip

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Dear Penn Appétit Readers and Eaters, Winter brings two opposing images to mind: one is the happy family sitting around a fireplace, the other a person shivering in the cold and conspicuously alone. The harsh cold cracks the skin on our hands, but our cheeks flush from wearing sweaters indoors. We study alone for

world of wine. To clear up confusion, take a look at Mary Catherine

Craig’s guide to “Swirling, Sipping and Savoring” (page 6). Mary will help you not only to understand the winemaking process itself but will lend some insight to the logic behind wine pairings.

No matter what the season, nutrition is consistently on our

minds. Take a proactive approach and consider volunteering with

the Agatston Urban Nutrition Initiative (AUNI). Read Amber

exams in our apartments, and two weeks later we’re waking up to

Alhadeff ’s personal account of her experience with the organiza-

Winter will almost always be cold in Philadelphia, just like hot

If you’ve ever heard of or even considered fad dieting, investi-

our moms’ blueberry muffins.

tion (page 13) and obtain the benefit of an insider’s point of view.

food will almost always warm us up. When we want to make sense

gate the arguments for and against the raw food diet along with

stancy to the daily routine.

gested food cures (page 5) for those common school aches and pains.

out of the extremes of winter, eating and cooking add some con- Michelle Lee (page 4). Then, consider employing Jacinda Li’s sugIt’s always nice to get some warmth in the kitchen by preparing

Jacinda recommends remedies while providing suggestions for how

10): one for butternut squash soup and one for stuffed acorn squash.

This wouldn’t be a complete food magazine without some talk

food. Try Jamie Nichol’s recipes for seasonal winter squash (page

to easily incorporate these items into your diet.

The recipes are easy and the only special equipment they require

about sweet treats. Stephanie Reitano of Capogiro Gelato (soon to

is a good knife and an oven. Or, if you have a couple hours, make

Alexia Nader’s risotto (page 11). We can personally attest that this recipe, although time-consuming, is easy, cheesy, and delicious.

open on campus) tells Jamie Png why you should continue to eat frozen desserts all winter long (page 14-15).

Instead of allowing winter to tire you out, relax into the rhythm

If you feel nostalgic and hungry, read Khanh-Anh Le’s take on

of cold weather and appreciate the relief of the warm indoors. Think

ing two Vietnamese specialties, with a tinge of childhood memory

ing something new. This issue of Penn Appetit will help you do

Vietnamese food (page 8-9). She captures the experience of eat- about what you’re eating and the pleasure it brings, or try cookthrown into the mix. Or you can join Karuna Meda as she gives a

just that.

rundown of the cuisine from her native South India (page 12).

For those lax winter evenings, refer to David Winchell’s sugges-

tions for dining at the Nothern Italian style restaurant Osteria (page

7); we think it’s worth the hype. While there, consider exploring the

Emma Morgenstern, Editor-in-Chief

Olivia Coffey, Visual Editor

Penn Appétit is a semesterly magazine for all types of food writing, including food features, restaurant reviews, recipes, creative food writing, interviews, and food narratives. Look for our next issue in the Spring of 2009. Our website, www.pennappetit.com , has more information about our student organization and an electronic version of the magazine. We also have a blog, www.pennappetit.com/blog , which is similar in content to the magazine and is updated daily. To get involved or for advertising inquiries, please email the editor at pennappetit @gmail.com.

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Food Fight: Raw vs. Cooked story by Michelle Lee | PHOTO BY KENDALL HAUPT

aw foodism, with roots in the late 1800s, has recently resurfaced as a popular fad diet. “Raw foodies” eat uncooked fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds, sprouts, herbs, grains, and legumes, and exclude meat, fish, poultry, dairy, and eggs. Enthusiasts claim that raw foods optimize intake of digestive enzymes and increase absorption of vitamins and minerals. Cooking foods at temperatures above 104°F is believed to denature these heat-sensitive enzymes and thus render such foods “dead.” The original idea behind the movement was to return to the human diet as it was before the discovery of fire. In her book Raw Energy: Eat Your Way to Radiant Health (1984), Leslie Kenton claims that a raw food diet prevents degenerative diseases, slows down the aging process, and boosts energy levels. Kenton’s book led to more books, seminars, and websites promoting the raw food movement.

are unique to plants and serve no function in humans. When we consume plant products, the enzymes of the plant are merely broken down along with the rest of the food by our own digestive juices. Our bodies naturally

form; they must be sufficiently softened by cooking in order to be broken down and absorbed. Cooking also prevents the growth of harmful bacteria that may arise in raw fruits and vegetables. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, fresh produce is the leading cause of food-borne illness; raw lettuce, sprouts, spinach, and green onions are major sources of disease-causing bacteria, such as E. coli.

Much of the science behind the raw food diet is simply not true.

THE RAW TRUTH

Followers of the raw food movement consume plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables—which many Americans lack in their daily diets—and avoid processed food products. Thus, raw foodies take in a limited amount of saturated and trans fats, which help to reduce the risk of heart disease. The diet is also low in sodium, but high in important nutrients like potassium, folate, and fiber. However, much of the science behind the diet is simply not true. Contrary to what many raw foodies claim, the “active” enzymes contained in the plants we eat do not enhance our digestion; these enzymes

contain adequate amounts of the enzymes required for digestion. In fact, steaming vegetables breaks down cellulose and alters And the winner is... plant cell structures so that fewer, not more, At the end of the day, the raw food diet is enzymes are required for digestion. not the most effective way of obtaining the The antioxidant advantage best nutrition. Raw fruits and vegetables are In terms of nutrient absorption, it is true a good source of vitamins and dietary fiber, that cooking food at high temperatures elim- but a diet consisting of only raw foods can inates significant amounts of water-soluble deprive us of the many health benefits of vitamins. However, it has been confirmed cooked food, such as higher levels of antioxthat cooking plants increases the availabil- idants. It is easy to get seduced by different ity and absorption of antioxidants, important food fads, especially with the influential sway nutrients that help protect against heart dis- of the media and celebrity endorsements, ease, cancer, and other illnesses. For instance, but whichever craze you choose to follow, cooked tomatoes contain higher levels of remember that the best diet lycopene than raw ones. Also, the release of is a balanced diet. antioxidants called phenolics and flavonoids, found in apples, is enhanced by cooking. Cooking carrots increases the absorption of carotenoids by 15-20%. Researchers at Cornell found that the available amount of ferulic acid— a chemical that protects against cancer—can be increased up to 900% when corn is cooked. Certain foods, such as wheat and beans, cannot be readily digested in their natural

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Concoct Cures in Your Kitchen Is your hectic schedule stressing you out and wearing you down? Instead of rushing to CVS or Starbucks, check out your kitchen. Read on to learn how to use food to cure three common ailments of busy college students. Story by Jacinda Li | Photos by KaTie Davidson and rachel stone Stress & Fatigue

Migraines

Heartburn

Do you feel panicked and/or sluggish when swamped with schoolwork? To refuel, add more protein and complex carbohydrates to your diet.

Have you had to stop reading because of a splitting headache? Painkillers can work, but the relief is short-lived. More omega-3s can ease and prevent migraines.

Do you ever feel a searing pain in your chest after a big meal in the dining hall? Try these natural treatments to relieve that uncomfortable heartburn.

Quinoa

Fatty Fish

Ginger

This low-fat whole grain, with plenty of complex carbs, is a healthy source of three major energy-boosting nutrients: protein, B vitamins, and iron.

Salmon, trout, herring, and sardines have omega-3 fatty acids (healthy fats), which help prevent inflammation that leads to headaches.

Ginger helps strengthen the lower esophageal sphincter (LES), which prevents stomach acid from backing up and causing that burning sensation.

Try to eat 1 ½ cups cooked quinoa daily in place of white rice or pasta. Simmer it in vegetable or chicken broth and add beans or other vegetables for a wholesome meal.

4 to 6 ounces, 2 or 3 times a week. Grill, sauté, or bake your fish with fresh herbs and vegetables, or wrap it in a whole-wheat tortilla with salsa for a delicious fish taco.

1 cup of ginger tea. Add ½ to 1 teaspoon of freshly grated ginger to a cup of hot water. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then strain. You can also use ¼ teaspoon of powdered ginger.

also try

Chickpeas, lentils, or black-eyed peas contain folic acid, which is a B vitamin and mood-enhancer. Try hummus or lentil soup, or you can mix beans with tomatoes, shredded carrots, and basil for a yummy salad.

Nuts and seeds, such as sunflower seeds, almonds, and flax seeds also contain omega-3s. Sprinkle them on salads, mix with cereal and dried fruit for trail mixes, or snack on them between classes.

Banana, papaya, and rhubarb help to neutralize the esophagusburning acid. Also try fennel tea, chamomile tea, or cumin, which help to stimulate proper digestion and nutrient assimilation.

Avoid

Food and drinks with high sugar and caffeine content. Coffee, soda, candy, and energy drinks only provide short-term energy.

Processed meats, artificial sweeteners, MSG, red wine, chocolate, hard cheeses, and citrus. These are some of the major migraine triggers.

Spicy or acidic foods, like tomatoes. Also avoid high-fat foods like butter and red meat, which can hinder proper functioning of the LES.

Symptoms

Food Cure

How Much?

Have questions about nutrition? Email pennappetit.nutritionQandA@gmail.com and nutritionist Rachel Beller will answer your questions at www.pennappetit.com/blog.

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Wine 101:

Swirling, Sipping, & Savoring

To most college students, wine is either white or red, cheap or expensive, boxed or bottled. Here’s a crash-course on wine that will make the liquor store’s security guard, and not the wine-picking process, the most stressful aspect of the trip. story by Mary Catherine Craig | photo by Edward Zawadzki

ine has been produced since long before it was “cool” to drink. Winemaking, which may have started 6,000 years ago as an accident in Israel, is essentially the natural fermentation of crushed grapes. The yeast in grapes breaks down the natural sugars and converts them into alcohol. Fermentation is com-

plete when the alcohol concentration reaches 10-14% and kills off the remaining yeast. Once fermentation is finished, wines are stored in oak casks for aging and flavor enhancement. The oak cask imparts the nutty, vanilla, and roasted tones associated with wine. Tasters often sense hints, or “notes,” of certain fruits in a wine’s flavor. While grapes are the only fruits involved in the wine making process, fermentation releases chemicals present in other fruits, tricking our tongues into perceiving

different fruity flavors. The tart apple flavor in chardonnay, for example, comes from the presence of malic acid. These fruit undertones and the intensity and concentration of the wine, combine to constitute what is known as the wine’s body. Light-bodied whites have a watery feel, while full-bodied reds have a heavier, denser taste. Identifying the wine’s body is crucial to pairing it with food. Wine has the ability to cleanse and refresh one’s palate between bites, enhancing the flavor of the food without overpowering it. Red wines come from grapes crushed and fermented with their skins, giving the wine a dark red color. Tannins (compounds found in grape seeds, skins, and stems) can make reds more bitter or acrid. Reds are generally heavier-bodied than whites. Red wines pair well with red meat, mushrooms, tomatobased sauces, and strong cheeses. With the exception of salmon, it is best not to pair reds with fish dishes, because the tannins react with compounds in the fish to

create an unpleasant metallic taste. White wines are easier on the palate for novice wine drinkers, as they tend to be sweeter and more delicate. There is arguably more variety in white wines, ranging from very crisp to deliciously smooth. Some whites are dry and puckery, while others have a wetter, cooler taste. Whites go well with lighter dishes like fish, poultry, and salads. Lemon-based pasta sauces, pesto, and light cream sauces should also be accompanied by whites. While the bitterness in reds intensifies the spiciness of certain ethnic foods, sweeter whites can balance it out. Once you’ve chosen your wine, serve it in a glass with a stem. The glass’s shape allows you to swirl the wine, releasing its aroma and flavors. The stem keeps the drinker’s warm hands away from chilled wine to avoid the cloying taste of warm wine. However you enjoy your wine, remember to savor it. Appreciate its color, taste, and aroma. Sip it purposefully, and try to identify what you enjoy about it. The ultimate demonstration of your wine-mastery will be the moment you take a glass, slowly swirl it, and after sipping, proclaim: “A balanced nose, but too heavy for my taste...”

Recommendations

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most fullbodied and intense varieties of red wine. In the McManis Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($10), you’ll notice coffee and cherry notes. It goes well with steak and other red meats.

Pinot Noir has a remarkably soft body for a red. Rex Goliath Pinot Noir ($9) is light and fruity. The ripened strawberry and raspberry flavors will remind you of a summer evening. Pinot Noir pairs well with lighter veggie dishes.

Sauvignon Blanc isn’t creamy like Chardonnay, but has a crisp, dry taste. Its strong citrus flavors pair well with lemony or fish dishes. Try Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 ($12) the next time you have sushi.

Merlot is an equally full-bodied red wine, but somewhat less bitter than Cabernet. Wine Enthusiast recommends Tin Roof Merlot, 2005 ($13), with its hints of cherry and chocolate.

Chardonnay has become the most popular white wine. It is known for apple, pear, and peach flavors, with a buttery finish. Alice White Chardonnay, 2006 ($8) has hints of pineapple and vanilla.

Riesling is a sweet, floral, and fruity German wine that tops my list. It perfectly offsets spicy foods, so enjoy Chateau St. Michelle Riesling, 2005 ($9) with your Indian or Thai takeout.

Osteria: Believe The Hype story by David Winchell | photo by Rachel Stone

steria is not Vetri, and in many ways is better for it. That restaurant, the sister to Osteria, is a wonderfully cozy and charming home to what is probably the best food in the city. But it’s just not the kind of place you can drop into. Not that Osteria is a neighborhood establishment, exactly: 640 N. Broad St. is around the corner from absolutely nothing. But you can eat there without planning two months ahead or spending hundreds of dollars. Osteria is less refined and more casual than its older sibling Vetri, but the core philosophy is the same: simple, creative, and satisfying Northern Italian food prepared by passionate people. And Vetri doesn’t have pizza, which at Osteria borders on the miraculous. Consider the seasonal bocconcini ($16), studded with meltingly tender pork trotter meat (braised for hours) and salty fried capers. In true Neapolitan style, the wafer-thin crust is crisp and blistered from the 650°F oven. High praise also goes to the lombarda ($18), a menu staple that riffs on the classic

breakfast combination of sausage, egg, and cheese. It’s the perfect beginning to a meal, though some of the antipasti ($10-$16) are also well worth sampling. Wood-grilled octopus comes with bits of cured lemon, and a spread of house-cured salumi is enlivened by an artichoke mostarda. Weekends are loud and busy in the cavernous wood-walled dining room, and the harried waiters, though knowledgeable and professional, aren’t always attentive. At least you can munch on bread while you wait, or sip a selection from the thoughtful (if pricey) all-Italian wine list. If you can’t snag a table—book two weeks ahead for prime weekend reservations— a cramped counter area accepts walk-ins and gives diners a partial view of the open kitchen; chef Jeff Michaud works the line most nights (look for a blue bandana). Entrées are uneven: a special of spitroasted baby pig ($35), sitting in a pool of its juices and topped with crunchy cracklings, was a knockout, but braised rabbit with polenta ($26) was disappointingly bland.

The real stars are the pasta dishes ($16): veal liver ravioli—balanced by sweet figs, toothsome pancetta, and crispy caramelized onions—delivered on its promise of offal-y richness, and the final garnish of rosemary was bracingly aromatic. One of the line cooks invented it last week, my server informed me; it was the most audacious pasta I had eaten in months. If organ meat scares you, guinea hen tortellini and robiola cheese francobolli are less exotic— but no less delicious—options. The best of the desserts ($8-$10) are fruit-centric, like a concord grape clafoutis that tempered its sweetness with candied bitter walnuts. For a lighter alternative, fresh gelati and sorbetti are reliably refreshing. Linger for a while over a demitasse of potent espresso. Osteria escapes the fatal inoffensiveness of so much of Philadelphia’s Italian food. It dazzles diners with soulful dishes that are progressive yet rooted in authentic tradition. Believe the hype: Philadelphia restaurants don’t get more exciting than this.

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Bánh Mì

story by KhÁnh-Anh LÊ | Photo by Julia wong

he hearty crunch of the fresh baguette is softened by layers of Vietnamese ham, roasted pork and Vietnamese deli meat. The meat contrasts with the creamy, homemade mayonnaise and salty pork paté. Pickled carrot, radish shreds, cilantro, and jalapeno peppers complete the sandwich. This is bánh mì, the delicious marriage of Vietnamese and French cuisine. The sandwich, with the heartiness of a hoagie and the sophistication of a panini, is not just a few “exotic” ingredients slapped in a bun. The pork and pickled greens are distinctly Viêt, while the crusty baguette, paté, and mayonnaise are culinary vestiges of French imperialism.

by a marinade of soy sauce and lemongrass—with pickled vegetables and greens. In Little Sài Gòn, California, and Austin, Texas, I’ve tried the bánh mì franchise called Lee’s Sandwiches, but I much prefer the madeto-order bánh mì at Philly’s Viêt Hương Restaurant (located at 1100 Washington Avenue). Every time my family visited Phila (that’s Viêt for Philly), we brought home a dozen or more bánh mì: six bánh mì đăc biêt and six bánh mì thit nuÓng. My brother and I ate them happily in the four-hour car ride home to Connecticut, careful not to sprinkle crumbs about the car. For the next week or

The pork and pickled greens are distinctly Viêt, while the crusty baguette, paté, and mayonnaise are vestiges of French imperialism.

While I grew up with the đăc biêt (“special combo”) variety of so, our bánh mì was the envy of our classmates who ate their usual the bánh mì sandwich, my parents had all different kinds in Viêt ham and cheese sandwiches. Nam. My new favorite is bánh mì thit nuÓng (“grilled meat sandBánh mì Viêt is not an alternative to a hoagie or a Philly cheesewich”). Bánh mì thit nuÓng boasts hunks of grilled pork—sweetened steak. Pardon the Taoist reference, but it simply is.

How to Eat a Bowl of Pho Gà Pho gà is the traditional Vietnamese chicken noodle soup. Its rich broth serves as the base for thick slices of chicken and flat rice noodles. After years of practice in my own kitchen, I have finally mastered the art of eating pho ga. Here’s a glimpse into the three-step process. story by KhÁnh-Anh LÊ | Photos by michael chien

1 2 3

“Eat” with nose

The best indicator of pho gà’s quality is the aroma – a potent manifestation of the flavor’s maturity. Growing up, I often smelled the distinct bouquet of ginger, onion, and star anise before I even entered the house. In the winter, a steamy bowl would dissolve the chill from hours of sledding with my brother. In the summer, I enjoyed the soup while sweating from the humidity and the broth’s warmth.

Actually eat the pho gà

Plunge your chopsticks into the noodles and twist them about as you would eat spaghetti with a fork. My uncle suggested this technique, which eliminates the awkwardness of getting long noodles in your mouth. Absorb yourself in pho gà’s cacophony of contrasting flavors and textures: the earthiness of the broth is accented with sharp green onion and chili, while the plush rice noodles mingle playfully with crisp mung bean sprouts.

Sip the broth

This is the only way to savor pho gà and show appreciation for the chef ’s efforts. My mother would spend entire Sunday mornings making broth. Golden chicken grease swirled across the surface as she skimmed marrow foam with her ladle. After four hours, a limp blossomed onion, peppercorns, and a chicken carcass remained in the pot. There’s no need for a spoon with this step; just lift the bowl to your lips and sip the broth slowly, thoughtfully.

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Roast It, Stuff It, Squash It Here are two great ways to prepare your winter squash. story and recipeS by Jamie Nichol | PHOTO by David Knipp

t’s snowing outside, and a few things come to mind: a fireplace, hot chocolate, and winter squash. Nutty, creamy, and sweet, winter squash, in its many forms, always satisfies my need for a healthy bite to eat in the chilly months. The word squash originates from the Native American word askutasquash, meaning “the green thing that may be eaten raw.” The Native Americans placed so much faith in this gourd that they buried it along with the dead to ensure a well-nourished final journey. Aside from its cultural value, squash can be a healthy addition to your winter meals. It provides an impressive amount of vitamin A (betacarotene) which may promote lung health and prevent cancer. The more orange the shell,

the higher the content of vitamin A. Winter squash has other beneficial nutrients such as dietary fiber, omega-3 fatty acids, potassium, and vitamin C. Its nutrients support the immune system, helping to ward off the dreaded common cold. This is a comfort food you don’t have to feel guilty about eating. The hard outer layer may not make squash seem like the friendliest of ingredients, but getting past the initial intimidation is as easy as having a good knife. Once you open up the squash, you can prepare it in a number of tasty ways: savory or sweet, in a soup or a salad, as an entrée or hors d’oeuvres, cubed or puréed, or in any creative manner you like. The following recipes will help you squash your fears and experiment yourself!

Butternut squash soup with apple

Acorn Squash Stuffed with Couscous

Butternut squash is one of the more common varieties and probably the most versatile. It’s about 8 – 12 inches long and has sweet orange flesh.

Acorn squash is shaped like its namesake and relatively small, with a bold green and orange exterior.

1 butternut squash, cut in half lengthwise and seeds removed 2 russet potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 tbsp. olive oil, plus a little more to brush the squash 1 tbsp. butter 1 medium onion, chopped 1 tart apple, peeled and chopped* 1 ½ - 2 qt. chicken broth ½ tsp. nutmeg Salt and pepper 1 c. half and half (optional)

2 acorn squash, cut in half lengthwise and seeds removed 2 tbsp. melted butter 1 apple, chopped 2 tbsp. olive oil ½ tbsp. curry powder 1 small white or yellow onion, chopped ¾ c. water 1 c. apple juice 1 c. dry couscous ¼ c. toasted almonds, walnuts, or pine nuts ¼ c. raisins Salt, pepper, and curry powder to taste

*Instead of apple you can try carrots, or celery

Brush the squash with olive oil and bake at 375˚ face down on a baking sheet for 45 minutes (until tender). Boil potatoes for 15 minutes (until tender). In a large pot sauté the onion with olive oil and butter until translucent. Add the apples and sauté for 5 minutes. Combine the baked squash, boiled potatoes, and broth with the apple and onions. Purée with food processor or blender. Put back in the pot and let simmer for 20 minutes. Add nutmeg, salt, pepper, and half and half (if desired). Garnish with fresh or sautéed apples.

Bake squash face down at 375˚ until tender, about 45 minutes. Brush with butter when out of oven. Put apple, olive oil, and curry powder in a saucepan, and sauté until apples absorb flavors (2-3 minutes). Remove apples from pan, and add onions with more oil. Sauté until onions are translucent Add water and apple juice and bring to a boil. Stir in couscous, cover pan, and remove from heat. Let sit for 15 minutes, until couscous absorbs moisture. Fluff with a fork and add apples, almonds, and raisins. Add more seasonings to taste, and stuff squash with couscous mixture.

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Risotto: Well Worth the Wait Here’s why you should take the time to make risotto ‑ and a recipe to show you how. Story and recipe by Alexia Nader | photo by Olivia Coffey

hen it gets cold enough to appreciate stirring something in a steamy pan for thirty minutes, preparing risotto is the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon. Like many Italian primi, making risotto is labor intensive. If you want to do it right, you may need three hours for the preparation and enjoyment of the meal. If you want the risotto for lunch, you might have to eat at 4pm instead of 1pm. However, if you take pleasure in the cooking process, your risotto will be perfect. From the time when Italians gathered on Sundays to eat multi-course, half-day-long lunches, risotto was considered a piatto unico – a complete meal in itself. Risotto is so satis-

fying that you might not want to eat anything else for the rest of the day. Almost all risotto dishes are made with a round, medium-grained rice called arborio. Toasting the grains in butter and oil and gradually adding broth really differentiates a risotto from standard rice. Wine, olive oil, and butter should always be involved; they’ll make your kitchen smell good and the conversation lively. Almost anything can be incorporated into a risotto. Although there are definitely some classics such as the saffron-flavored risotto alla Milanese, exotic risotto dishes show up on the menus of even the most avant-garde restaurants. This recipe is for a more traditional mushroom risotto. In Italy, this dish would be cooked with porcini mushrooms, whose meaty flavor adds another dimension to the dish, but regular button mushrooms still do the trick and are less expensive.

RISOTTO AI FUNGI 1 c. arborio rice 8 oz. button mushrooms, washed and sliced 1 cube vegetable bouillon ½ c. butter 1 c. dry white wine ½ bunch parsley 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil ½ c. freshly grated parmesan Salt to taste In an oversized skillet, heat olive oil and butter for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté over medium heat. Add salt to taste. When mushrooms are tender, remove them from pan using a slotted spoon and set them aside. Keeping the pan on medium heat, add rice to the butter and olive oil. Toast rice for 4 minutes, then add white wine. When the wine evaporates, add one ladle full of boiling broth to risotto and stir gently. When liquid is absorbed and the sauce appears creamy, add another ladle of broth. Repeat this process, stirring constantly, until risotto has fully expanded and sauce begins to thicken. Let risotto simmer on low heat for 5 minutes, then add mushrooms and chopped parsley. Stir in the parmesan over low heat. Top with additional parmesan and serve. Leftover Tip: If you have leftover risotto, refrigerate immediately. The next day, form patties with it and pan-fry in olive oil. Delizioso!

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NUTRITION

Commonalities

South Indian cuisine uses little oil and has a greater emphasis on spices with medicinal properties. Harvard researchers found that idlis, a dish of rice dumplings usually eaten with lentil soup or sambhar, is a good source of fiber and protein. Like many South Indian dishes, sambhar contains turmeric; chemicals in turmeric-curcumin have been shown to protect against cancer and heart disease. Whole spices like cardamom, cloves, and ginger are frequently used for their digestive benefits. Story by Karuna Meda | photo by Alyssa Birnbaum

The cuisine in all four regions of South India has common elements. It is typically hotter than North Indian food, and uses less butter and cream. Any South Indian cook will stock coriander, cumin, cinnamon, clove, and cardamom in his or her kitchen. Coconut and rice are both used extensively. Pongal, a sweet or savory rice dish with lentils, is prevalent across the four regions. South Indians often use banana leaves instead of plates, an eco-friendly and healthy way to serve food.

It’s Not Just Curry!

REGIONS

MY EXPERIENCE When I go to Indian restaurants, I can feel my roots tugging my hand away The food of Karnataka from the plate, revolting against the injustice done to Indian food – it’s not just I grew up in Bangalore, uses brown sugar ( “jagcurry! Let’s explore the South Indian palate, the forgotten Indian cuisine. the capital of Karnataka, gery”) in savory dishes such but my mother hails as obattu saru, a tomato from Mangalore in North soup with cumin and tamarind. Andhra Pradesh has the hottest food of India and strong Muslim Karnataka.The thought of her Mangalorean chicken gassi and neer dosa influence; a typical dish is biryani (rice pilaf with meat, green chillis, cinna- makes me pine for home. The chicken is simmered in a spicy coconut mon, ginger-garlic paste, and bay leaves). Kerala, on the coast, is known gravy and infused with the wonderful flavors of red chilli, fenugreek, corifor seafood prepared in coconut oil or milk, and appams, a fluffy crepe. ander seeds, and tamarind.The coconut milk tempers the fire of the red The mostly vegetarian Tamil Nadu is famous for vartha kulambu, a len- chilli and adds a delicate texture. The neer dosa is a lacy pancake that soaks up the gravy and melts away in your mouth. til soup with curry leaves and pearl onions.

Penn Appetit | 13

Learning Nutrition, Hands-On Urban Nutrition Initiative seeks to improve overall health by sending workers to lead educational programs in West Philadelphia schools. Story by amber alhadeff | photo by Alice gao

t’s back-to-school night at William school coordinators have worked to eduC. Bryant Elementary School, located on cate children about daily practices that can 60th and Cedar Streets. The school princi- improve individual and community health pal rolls an ancient-looking microphone into as well as better develop local food systems. the cafeteria, where parents and students are AUNI is part of Eat.Right.Now., the School waiting on lunch-room style benches. District of Philadelphia’s comprehensive I am at Bryant representing the Agatston nutrition education program. Urban Nutrition Initiative (AUNI), a Penn-affiliated program that works to improve Philadelphia’s overall nutrition through educational programs and activities in underprivileged areas. It is my first in-school experience with AUNI, but already I can tell that I love being around these kids. Tonight, Gee, the nutrition education coordinator, and I are here to introduce the AUNI program to parents. But more imporAUNI conducts monthly food tastings tantly, we are here to hand out fresh, juicy in Philadelphia public schools, bringing in nectarines. mass quantities of a seasonal fruit or vegetable, or other healthy snacks. This October, any neighborhoods in West Gala apples were on the menu. The orgaPhiladelphia, like the one I visited, nization purchased apples from a local rank among the poorest urban communities farm and volunteers individually inspected, in the United States. Perhaps related to this washed, and divided them into large paper urban poverty, these neighborhoods have a bags. I had the opportunity to distribute the disproportionately high rate of diet-related apples to various public schools (the largest diseases. Many of the schools with which of which I visited was Bryant, with 600 stuAUNI works have childhood obesity rates dents). Apples had to be transported from that sometimes exceed 20%. the AUNI office on Penn’s campus all the

Since AUNI was founded in 1995 by Penn’s Barbara and Edward Netter Center for Community Partnerships, members and

students (and teachers!) appreciate their nutritious monthly treats. AUNI does more than deliver fruit; volunteers hold in-classroom activities for the kids, including interactive lessons about nutrition and exercise, and in-classroom recipe preparation (always followed by a tasting). Student-run fruit stands have been effective in teaching students about marketing, advertising, sales, inventory, and employee – consumer relations, in addition to promoting healthy eating habits for the participants and customers.

few weeks later I am in a fourth grade classroom assisting with a lesson on the food groups, feeling acclimated to the schools with about a month of work under my belt. “Who can tell me what your favorite vegetable is?” Gee asks, as I pass out pretzel sticks, the lesson snack of the day. The children are excited, frantically waving their hands to participate. One girl eagerly answers, “Broccoli! Because it tastes good and I know it’s good for me!” Working for AUNI is supposed to be my job, but instead the children make my time at the schools more like a hobby. Before I know it, its 3:00, time for dismissal. Several young girls run to give me a hug and to way to the doors of West Philadelphia class- thank me for coming. And as I am leaving, rooms. And sure enough, our hard work was I already can’t wait until I go back to the more than rewarded upon seeing so many school again.

For more information about the AUNI program, please visit www.urbannutrition.org.

Penn Appetit | 14

Stephanie Reitano of Capogiro Gelato I still make all the ingredients that go in the gelato...I make the dulce de leche, the chocolate bases, everything.

With cold weather approaching, many are turning to warm baked goods and hot chocolate for their sweet fixes. However, Stephanie Reitano, co-owner and chef at Capogiro Gelato Artisans, argues that icy treats are a comfort food appropriate for any season. Penn Appétit spoke with Ms. Reitano about her store’s winter offerings, how she comes up with unconventional gelato flavors, and plans for her soon-to-beopening gelateria on 39th and Walnut. story by jamie png | photo by Olivia Coffey

Does the winter weather affect how much and what you make? Absolutely. We are acutely aware of the weather—we keep track of the temperature every day. But we actually love the winter months because the fruit that comes in is very interesting. You get these amazing Seville sour oranges, Honeybell tangerines, Meyer lemons…I love citrus. It’s my favorite, so we do a ton of different citrus flavors, and in the fall we do the apples and pears.

or is there a particular regional variation you’re emulating that’s more unusual? The regional style that I chose to do here is the Veneto style, because the Veneto region is just about the same climate and farming community as PA, and I can get the same ingredients. The Veneto style is mostly milk, a tiny bit of cream, and sometimes egg yolks. The egg yolks are only used in chocolates, and the occasional cheese or caramel flavors, like our burnt sugar. The reason it tastes creamy is because gelato is served warmer than ice cream, and there’s very little fat. And our sobetti is fat free. There’s very little air pumped into the gelato, so it’s very dense. When you eat the gelato it immediately melts, and you’re actually tasting the nuts, the milk, the sugar, all of the ingredients.

You’re opening a store at Penn in the spring, which we’re all excited about… Good, good! It’s going to be much larger, probably twice the size of the 13th Street store. We’re going to have a yogurt bar, a full coffee menu, hot oatmeal, thick-cut toast, Italian rustic soups, and Italian sandwiches: panini, crostini, and tramezzini. Where did you learn to make gelato? I trained in Italy, a week here, a week there, spread out over a And we’ll always have vegetarian options. We’re going to have year. Different manufacturers of gelato-making equipment will a very limited liquor license: gelato cocktails, aperitifs, digeshold classes. And with any Italian gelato-maker who was in tivi. And we’ll serve little things with the cocktails—we’re the US—anyone [who] said they were teaching a gelato class, I going to make our own olive oil potato chips. It’s not going to showed up. We opened in December 2002, and it was probably be a shot and a beer place, we want to encourage people to sit 11 degrees out that first day! I had from December until May and unwind. A European-style place where students and proto figure it out. And gelato is chemistry. I would try something fessors can come and just have a cocktail. out and put it in the case, and it would turn to soup. Then I would get my calculator out and I’d start readjusting the proYou’re very committed to using seasonal, locallyportions to make sure every single flavor in that case had the grown produce and supporting sustainable farming, same sugar ratio. so if you expand to different regions would you use local food there? Do you still make all the gelato yourself? I feel that you need to use the best products available, and I still make all the ingredients that go in the gelato, though I’m if it happens to be local, that’s great. I’ve yet to have something imported that tastes better than something that’s local. not physically pouring it into the machine and pulling it out, which I did for the first three years. Now it’s just me and Dan, We do want to expand outside of Philadelphia, but we’ll pick who works with me, and we make all the bases. Yesterday I our places carefully. I can’t open in places that don’t have roasted 20 pounds of pecans for Pecan gelato, I made pecan praa farming community nearby. If you have a connection to line…I make the dulce de leche, the chocolate bases, everything. the person you’re buying the products from and a connection to the people you’re selling to, then I believe that’s the How do you generate your flavor ideas? most important. And the perk of staying seasonal is you look There are certain culinary rules for things that always go well forward to the changes of the seasons. As much as you love together. But I get ideas from everywhere: desserts, fun cockraspberries, it’s really nice when raspberries go away and tails, even candy. And people suggest things all the time. We apples come in. had a flavor suggestion contest last March, and the winner was baked sweet potato and pineapple. I can’t wait to taste it. We’re All your flavors are so creamy and dense – even the getting our first batch of sweet potatoes…today, actually! sorbetti! Is that because of the ingredients you use,

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