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Fundamentals Of Style The ultimate guide to becoming a 21st-century sartorial savant r obbr epor t .in.t h
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BEHIND
THE PRIDE OF THAILAND
Behind the perfect swing is a lifetime of hard work. Behind the greatest champions, is THAI.
Keeps working harder to make your journey perfect and smooth as silk.
PRO MAY
ARIYA JUTANUGARN
WORLD NO.1 GOLFER 2018
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Some watches tell time. Some tell a story
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Architectural interpretation of an icon, letting light filter through the heart of its mechanics.
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Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic
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CONTENTS
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10 Letter from the Editor 12 Opinion 14 Perfect 10 22 Auction
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58 Concourse Skyline Penthouse presented by Robb Report 62 Style 64 Time 76 Wheels
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98 Wings 100 Money 108 Travel 132 Savour 144 Robb Reader 146 The Last Word
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The Fundamentals of Style This issue, we find out how fashion rules are changing. Then, we take spins on Italy’s forgotten classic cars – legendary and iconic. Much like the equally artful Thai food scene that’s undergoing its own exciting renaissance.
Cover photo: Steve Scott
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Editorial Editor-in-Chief KARISHMA TULSIDAS (k.tulsidas@imv.com.sg) Editor MARK LEAN (m.lean@imv.com.sg) Editor-At-Large, Watches and Jewellery Celine Yap (c.yap@imv.com.sg) Motoring, Timepieces & Spirits Editor WEI-YU WANG (wy-wang@imv.com.sg) Chief Sub-Editor Jacqueline Danam Junior Writer Allisa Noraini (a.noraini@imv.com.sg) Editorial Assistant Tash Mahnokaren Art Art Director NGUYEN THI YEN PHUONG Designer Le Thu Trang Designer Thao Truong Picture Editor Kenny Nguyen Contributors Ben Chin, Charmaine Tai, Daryl Lee, Gillian Rhys, Hazel Vincent De Paul, Jason H Harper, Kenneth Tan, Mary Grady, Paige Reddinger, Renyi Lim, Robert Ross, Tuptim Malakul na Ayuthaya Production Group Production Manager Shahrul Hilal Rethashah Prepress IMV Repro Printer Percetakan Zanders Sdn Bhd (205766A), No. 16, Jalan BK 1/11 Bandar Kinrara 47180 Puchong Selangor Darul Ehsan Malaysia
thailand
Robb Report
Advertising Sales and Marketing Director Regional Sales IMV Perlyn de Rouvray (p.derouvray@imv.com.sg) Sales & Marketing Assistant Tash Mahnokaren (t.mahnokaren@imv.com.sg) PR & Event and Marketing Consultants R.S.V.P.-PR & Lifestyle Communications Agency, Singapore
Robb Report Global EVP, Managing Director David Arnold Editor in Chief Paul Croughton Senior Vice President, Live Media Cristina Cheever Vice President, Brand & Communications Elyse Heckman International Sales Director Daniel Borchert
Finance Head of Finance Wei Chan Administrator huiying soh
Penske Media Corporation Chairman and CEO Jay Penske Chief Operating Officer George Grobar Senior Vice President, Finance Ken DelAlcazar Managing Director, International Markets Debashish Ghosh Vice President, Global Partnerships & Licensing Kevin LaBonge Senior Director, Asia Gurjeet Chima Editorial & Brand Director, International Laura Ongaro
Digital Regional Head Steven Khu President Michael von Schlippe Published by Indochine Media Pte Ltd 1 Syed Alwi Road, #02-02 Song Lin Building, Singapore 207628. Robb Report Thailand® is a registered trademark of Robb Report Media, LLC. ©2018 Robb Report Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Published under licence from Robb Report Media, LLC 11175 Santa Monica Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90025, USA.
Ad Sales Representatives Publicitas London Emilie Errante, sales director emilie.errante@publicitas.com China Libby Chen, managing director libby.chen@publicitas.com Hong Kong Michele Li, general manager (sales) michele.li@publicitas.com oberon media Italy Angelo Careddu Viale Giulio Richard 1/b 20143 Milano Tel: +39 02 874 5 3 acareddu@oberonmedia.com Studio-riboud France Magali Riboud 130 rue de Courcelles, 75017 Paris, France Tel: +33 142 563 336, Fax: +33 142 563 331 mriboud@studio-riboud.com
Robb Report Thailand is published by Indochine Media Pte Ltd, registration number 201214107E, Mci (P) 051/10/2018. Indochine Media has taken every reasonable care to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information contained in this publication, but accepts no responsibility for the content of advertisements published, and no liability for mistake, misprint, omission, typographical error, loss or damage suffered as a result of relying wholly or in part on the content of advertising or editorial published herein. Indochine Media reserves the right to refuse any advertisement or advertorial for any reason. All artwork designed by Indochine Media or any part of this publication may not be reproduced in a retrieval system, transmitted in any form or by means – graphical, electronic or mechanical, photocopying, recording, taping, etc – without prior permission in writing from the Publishers.
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Letter from the EDITOR
Robb Report
Reworking the Classics
Style never goes out of fashion. Or is the opposite also true? There are as many ways to wear a white shirt as there are to paraphrase someone famous. This issue, we dive into the elements that convey individuality in a world that’s fascinated with the idea of visual documentation and its subsequent validation. Cue: the new fundamentals of style. We live in times where fashion tropes from previous decades are so easily mined, often minus the original cultural context. It’s a time when languid and lost 1960s hippies can pop up next to 1970s rock poster boys – it’s the new groovy for those who haven’t lived through those exciting and tumultuous decades. It’s also where the new rules of fashion are such there aren’t any rules anymore. Make-up for guys, anyone? Tinted foundation aside, the power of a precise haircut is often underrated. Consider, too, the unfussy and nonchalant elegance of a duffel bag accessorising a classy airport arrival. There’s also the idea that balanced proportions matter. Anything too over the top might rally the wrong sorts of attention. These days, there is always a share-happy someone round the corner with a phone camera. So what are you waiting for? Give them something to talk about. MARK LEAN Swap out your go-to black or grey coat for something that packs a bit more punch.
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OPINION
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Collaborations (The New Black) The evolution of marketing: a fashion story. By Simplicio Michael Luis (aka M)
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ore and more, companies have to be strategic when it comes to taking their business to the next level. With the intricately connected global market, brands require new approaches to stand out. This fresh perspective is most evident in the fashion industry. Celebrity product placement was one of the first strategies for next level marketing. Fashion has always gone hand in hand with celebrities. Madonna would rock Versace, while Brad Pitt sported TAG Heuer and, more recently, Breitling. This way, brands would leverage their star power connections, reaching a broader demographic; particularly capturing the celebrity’s adoring fans internationally. This particular strategy of marketing has proven itself to be quite effective as it added to the sexiness of the brand. Rap star LL Cool J launched Fubu, Puff Daddy has Sean John, and so on and forth. After a few decades of success with this strategy, businesses started collaborations with each other. This decision, however, was more of a strategic move to survive. After the global recession (circa 2009), brands have been finding ways to cut costs: sharing brick and mortar spaces, staff and even cobranding and cross-platform marketing to maximise their dollars. One of the first brands to co-exist was KFC and Taco Bell, two big franchises of fast food in the US. Not only did this aid in their survival during those times, it proved that brands could
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Celebrity product placement allows fashion brands to reach a broader demographic.
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co-exist and collaborate in a space that didn’t compromise their brand identity or confuse their consumer base. This hybridisation of brands continues today and has seeped into every business sector except the fashion industry. Why is that? Because fashion branding is a bit more sensitive. Fashion brands are more particular about how they’re perceived and positioned; after all, in the fashion industry, it is all about how you look, dah’ling! This fashion elitist mentality, however, couldn’t withstand the new age of the millennial. With this generation, of tech-savvy, super connected, nonpretentious, ‘now’ individuals, it was even
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OPINION harder to catch their attention, let alone build brand loyalty. The question now becomes: “What is next?” The answer came in 2017, when the luxury giant Louis Vuitton showcased a line-up of autumn/winter looks that incorporated a New York-based streetwear brand called Supreme and its bold red and white box logo branding. This created shockwaves throughout the industry because it was the first collaboration between streetwear and luxury. Although it was a risk, it was evidently well received. It is said that LVMH has amassed approximately US$23 billion in earnings for the first half of the year and that the luxury conglomerate’s 23 per cent profit increase was partially due to the collaboration. Soon enough you would see red leather duffle bags and simply styled pullover hoodies bearing the same graphic. Soon thereafter, other brands would take such a leap; such as the collaboration between Jimmy Choo and the American trendsetter Off White. Why would this type of ironic collaboration between two different markets work so well? In order to answer that, we have to circle back to the point made earlier. This
Supreme and Louis Vuitton created a capsule collection of clothing, leather goods, accessories and jewellery.
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The new generation of luxury consumers are tech- and info-savvy. In order to reach this market, you have to be part of this wave of cultural technology.
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truly is the age of the millennial. With every new generation comes a new way of doing business and ultimately surviving. The new generation of luxury consumers are tech- and info-savvy. In order to reach this market, you have to be part of this wave of cultural technology – something that streetwear is inherently connected to. For luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton to tap into this new money (if you will) they must connect or collaborate with such brands. It not only gives luxury brands a connection to the ‘cool kids’, but it also gives them bragging rights. In short, collaborations are here to stay. It has been proven that the fanfare of a ‘hip’ brand, along with the longevity and quality of a luxury brand, creates a successful collaboration formula. Simplicio Michael Luis (aka M) is a fashion designer based in Los Angeles. He collaborates with Kings Global Consulting Group, which is based in Singapore, to produce fashion pieces and, more recently, his own range of coffee. M The Movement – his fashion line – is also available at his Malaysian showroom. www.mthemovement.com
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PERFECT 10
Photos: Wayne Slezak
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THE GOOD LIFE
Our editorial round-up of some of the newest, best and brightest updates from the world of luxury.
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1 From The Ground Up Living the jet-set life begins on the ground at the United Polaris Lounge. United Airlines added a second daily non-stop flight between San Francisco and Singapore late last year – a significant move that has further cemented Singapore’s position as one of the world’s most crucial transit hubs. Passengers travelling on United Polaris Business Class between Singapore and San Francisco will also get to enjoy the many perks of the relatively new United Polaris Lounge that was launched at San Francisco International Airport last April. Spread across 2,601 sq m over two levels, the United Polaris Lounge is so indulgent you might just risk missing your flight. With minimal yet elegant furnishings – think glossy marble walls accentuated with comfortable sofas – mostly awash in grey and dark blue tones, the lounge is home to 440 cosy seats, five private daybeds outfitted by Saks Fifth Avenue and eight state-of-the-art shower suites. The swanky space also inspires creativity as eight artworks by renowned Bay Area artists are on display throughout the lounge. Fliers feeling peckish can choose to nosh on a satiating bowl of warm ramen at the ramen noodle bar which operates in the afternoon, or the plethora of international cuisines served at The Dining Room, an intimate dining area with an enticing menu courtesy of chef Tritia Gestuvo, a California native. Whether you opt for the traditional Chinese congee breakfast or hand-cut pappardelle pasta with mushroom ragout, remember to wash it all down with a tipple at the lounge’s bar before making your way to the departure gate. www.united.com
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Smart Luxury Armillion’s bracelets combine old-school elegance and luxury with modern convenience.
Photo: Rodolfo Garcia
Armillion, based in Geneva, combines traditional luxury crafts with a 21st-century lifestyle in its line-up of smart bracelets. Inspired by fine watchmaking, the ceramic-bodied bracelets, which are presented in a clean, elegant design, are virtually scratchproof and are accented by precious metals. They are offered in several options, including Eastern Dream (ÂŁ48,480, pictured here). The technology it holds enables the everyday functions of a modern sophisticate, such as contactless payment, security access and keyless car entry. Best of all, it charges automatically every time it is used. www.armillion.com
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To The Moon and Back A Lange & Söhne unveils the newest addition to its limited-edition Lange 1 25th-anniversary collection. A Lange & Söhne is celebrating the 25th anniversary of its Lange 1 collection with a limited-edition series this year, whereby the German watchmaker will launch a new iteration every month until October. The newest addition to the anniversary collection is the white gold version of the Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase, a model that features an argente-coloured dial in solid silver with deep-blue numerals. The timepiece holds much poetic appeal as six stars and multiple small dots have been hand-engraved on a white-gold lunar disc to resemble a starry night sky. Limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, the new timepiece comes paired with a handsome blue alligator leather strap with grey stitching. www.alange-soehne.com
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3 The Contemporary Wave Count on the Arizona Mirror to add stylish aplomb to any living space. Never underestimate the power of a simple mirror to add exuberance to a living space. When used smartly, it can effortlessly spruce up a bare room by adding texture and character. Drawing design cues from Arizona’s Grand Canyon, the Arizona Mirror is an elegant assembly of marble, brass and bronze mirrors which have been carved to resemble the sinuous, wave-like patterns of the Grand Canyon’s rocky formations. The brainchild of architect Joana Santos Barbosa, the mirror weighs 46kg and stands tall at 1.15m. The Arizona Mirror can be purchased for €4,300. www.insidherland.com
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Right On Track Belmond British Pullman’s ‘pop-up’ dinner series this year will have guests tucking into specially curated bespoke menus on the luxury train. Belmond British Pullman has a stellar line-up of chefs for its signature annual pop-up dinner series this year. The luxury train operator kicks off the culinary event in June with gastronomic creations courtesy of chef Skye Gyngell, the founder of Spring restaurant at Somerset House in London. Four other culinary maestros will make their appearance on the train from July to October, with each dinner session accommodating up to only 140 guests. Guests will be served by their own personal stewards and will have the chance to meet their favourite chef as the train travels on a circular route from London Victoria’s Station. Prices for each dinner journey start from £459 per person. www.belmond.com
Photo: Helen Cathcart
A Spritz of Nature
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The sun, garden and sea serve as muses for Louis Vuitton’s newest fragrance collection. Louis Vuitton has added another new fragrance collection to its portfolio, and it’s called Les Colognes. Comprising three perfumes – Sun Song, Cactus Garden and Afternoon Swim – the collection draws aromatic elements from the sun, sky, gardens and sea. Sun Song encapsulates warm, nectarous notes of orange blossom suffused in sunlight, while Cactus Garden will reveal soothing notes of tea. Afternoon Swim, on the other hand, is ideal for those who prefer the more subdued scent of orange. These elixirs are charmingly encased in striking, transparent flacons in yellow, green and blue. www.louisvuitton.com
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At Full Speed The Porsche 718 Cayman SportDesign Series is a fresh and even sportier take on the highly acclaimed coupe.
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The Porsche 718 Cayman returns with an exclusive and limited options package in the 718 Cayman SportDesign Series (S$207,607). It is limited to just 15 units, five each in yellow, red and white. The enhancements include exterior aesthetics, in the form of carbon fibre design racing stripes, new wheels and front end, and aggressive and contrasting black trim on the side air vents, door handles and tailpipes; as well as interior luxuries like 14-way power seats and 10-speaker surround sound systems. The flat-four engine is capable of 300bhp, which translates to a top speed of 275km/hr and a 0-100km/hr time of 4.6 seconds. www.porsche.com
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Treasure Trove Fourth-generation family-run jeweller Hemmerle marries contemporary design with the timehonoured techniques of jewellery-making.
Photo: Jens Bruchhaus
The Hemmerle family travels across the world in pursuit of rare stones for its one-of-a-kind creations. From flawlessly cut brown diamonds from the Mughal-era to the sun-orange melo pearls from the South China Sea, the stones are then further chiselled to form signature styles, which include structural pieces with geometric lines, the open-ended harmony bangle with its seamless closure and diamonds set upside down to emulate a captivating ‘spiky’ effect. A single piece of jewellery can take more than 500 hours to complete, which makes Hemmerle one of the world’s most revered and niche jewellers lauded for its distinct aesthetic. www.hemmerle.com
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Wild at Heart Leading South African design firm Cécile & Boyd works its magic on the newly redesigned Singita Faru Faru Lodge.
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Determined to bring the Serengeti to guests staying on Singita Faru Faru Lodge’s 142,000-hectare reserve in Tanzania, interior design firm Cécile & Boyd has boldly melded Scandinavian simplicity with traditional African crafts and tribal patterns. The result: a new look for the lodge, underlined by an interactive kitchen, open seating areas that bring guests closer to nature, rooms filled with bespoke objects by local artisans, and a Singita signature bar-deli. (Rates start from US$1,745 per person per night on a full-board basis and include twice-daily Land Rover safaris and return road transfers between the airstrip and lodge.) www.singita.com
A Joyride through Nature Let the sheer power of sports cars on the challenging roads of Germany’s Black Forest leave your heart racing. From 26 to 28 April this year, Brenners Park-Hotel and Spa will once again host its annual supercar experience on the roads of Black Forest in BadenBaden, Germany. This year’s stellar line-up of dream machines includes the Porsche 911, Audi R8 V10plus, Mercedes AMG GTS and Lamborghini Huracan. To ensure that guests enjoy a holistic experience, the hotel has designed an exclusive two-night package, which includes a double room with a stunning view of the famous Lichtentaler Allee, two complimentary dinners at the hotel’s restaurants and of course, a one-day guided sports car excursion through the Black Forest. www.oetkercollection.com
Photo: James Merrell
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Auction
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Off the Block We keep you up-to-date on the hottest lots under the hammer.
Seymchan meteorite sphere Auctioned by Christie’s online
US$37,500 Measuring 50mm in diameter and weighing a substantial 360g, this pallasite – a type of exotic meteorite – was discovered in the Magadan district of Siberia (also known as the location of Stalin’s infamous gulags). The Seymchan meteorite sample – which was formed at the boundary of the stony mantle and molten iron core of an asteroid that shattered, following an impact with another asteroid – has been cut and ground to reveal its internal splendour. Its crystalline iron-nickel matrix features dazzling amber-hued olivine and peridot crystals, cementing its reputation as the most beautiful extraterrestrial substance known to mankind. www.christies.com
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Passion & Humanity: The Susie Tompkins Buell Collection Bidding commences on 4 April through Phillips in New York
Primarily known for co-founding Esprit and The North Face, and for her political activism and philanthropy, Susie Tompkins Buell has played an equally large role in the photography market. The quality of the collection is a testament to her vision and determination. This auction by Phillips focuses on two major photographic themes of the first half of the 20th century: modernism and humanism. Tina Modotti’s exceptional Telephone Wires (right)– viewed as the ultimate modernist composition of vertical and horizontal lines – is expected to fetch up to US$350,000, while Edward Weston’s Circus Tent may be another auction heavyweight with a top estimate of US$600,000. www.phillips.com
1939 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900 B Touring Berlinetta
Shackleton’s Sledge
Auctioned by Artcurial in Paris
Auctioned by Bonhams in London
€17 million
£143,750 The subject of fierce bidding at Bonhams’ Travel and Exploration Sale in February, this sledge comes from the first expedition to the Antarctic led by Ernest Shackleton. It was used on the 1907-9 British Antarctic (Nimrod) Expedition by Eric Marshall – one of the four men, with Shackleton, Jameson Adams and Frank Wild, who undertook the sledge march to the South Pole. Although they had to abandon the attempt, they reached within 186km of the Pole, which – at the time – was the furthest south ever travelled. A rare survivor from the expedition, the sledge played a crucial role in this great journey of Polar exploration. www.bonhams.com
Photo: Oliver Williams
A private collector from the US pipped other car enthusiasts to the post by purchasing this 1939 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900 B Touring Berlinetta, making it the third most expensive pre-war car to be sold at auction worldwide. Widely considered a Holy Grail for Alfa Romeo collectors, only five copies of this model were
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manufactured by Italian coachbuilder Touring. This characteristically flamboyant version of the Alfa 8C was delivered new in Italy in 1939, and has passed through the hands of just five collectors, having been purchased by the father of its previous owner for €10,000 some 43 years ago. www.artcurial.com
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Auction
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The Spring Stafford Sale Bidding commences on 27 April through Bonhams in Stafford
Motorcycle enthusiasts are in for a rip-roaring treat at the two-day Spring Stafford Sale, where the Sant Hilari Collection – comprising more than 100 important competition machines, including several prototype examples – will be offered without reserve. Having amassed this tantalising array of machines over a lifetime spent as both a competitive rider and a works mechanic for several top-flight teams, the vendor’s collection covers marques such as Gilera, Bultaco, Cannondale and
Ducson. Other highlights from the auction include a 1925 Coventry Eagle 980cc Flying-8 OHV (estimated to fetch between £100,000 and £120,000) and a 1924 Brough Superior 980cc SS80 (which carries a £90,000 to £130,000 estimate). www.bonhams.com
Panerai Radiomir Type A Auctioned by Artcurial in Monaco
€226,000
Far outstripping its top estimate of €120,000, this extremely rare timepiece originally belonged to Rear Admiral Amedeo Vesco of the Italian Navy, a World War II hero who participated in the commando operations of the MAS Flotilla. Its cushion-shaped steel case measures 47mm in diameter and features a screw-down winding crown and a screw back. The watch’s black dial has Arabic figures, baton markers and luminous hands, and is inscribed with ‘Radiomir Panerai’. Its Rolex mechanical movement operates inside a protective capsule with 15 jewels and a Côte de Genève decoration. www.artcurial.com
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the Fundamentals of STYLE “The difference between style and fashion is quality.” - Giorgio Armani -
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IThe New Age ManI The rules for menswear have changed radically in recent years thanks to an influx of urban designers who’ve eschewed stuffy and staid for cool and trendy. We dissect how it has altered the very fundamentals of style. By Ben Chin
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ess than a decade ago, the landscape of men’s fashion was a different place. Athleisure hadn’t yet become a thing; hoodies had yet to make the transition from high street to high fashion, and Off-White was still (kinda) Pyrex Vision, a brand conceived by Virgil Abloh with a one-off collection of Renaissance art and collegiate typography silkscreened on cheap deadstock Champion apparel. It was almost unimaginable that Abloh, who has no formal training in fashion design, would one day take
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Abloh’s appointment at Louis Vuitton in 2018 was no doubt a savvy move by LVMH’s Bernard Arnault to invigorate the brand.
Virgil Abloh received partial credit from LVMH for helping the company rake in a record €46.8 billion in sales revenue last year.
the reins of menswear at Louis Vuitton, one of the world’s most valuable luxury brands. And yet, it’s equally difficult to imagine men’s fashion without the influence of Abloh, whose successful blending of luxury and sportswear, or at least sports-inspired wear, made Off-White a bona-fide, buzzy success. The minimal streetwear label, known for its logo-centric industrial vibe and graphic arrows, is a hit amongst the millennial crowd whose attention (and expanding wallets) are much sought-after by the old guard luxury houses. Abloh’s appointment at Louis Vuitton in 2018 was no doubt a savvy move by LVMH’s Bernard Arnault to invigorate the brand. Abloh’s reach and influence amongst the fashion-hungry Gen Z set is no doubt bolstered by his ethos of inclusivity. For Off-White’s spring/summer 2018 show in Paris, he announced the time and location on Instagram to his 3.7 million followers, inviting them to show up. Many brands use social media for
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marketing but Abloh harnessed the platform’s immediacy and reach in a more intimate way. When he showed up, guerrilla-style, for a signing of his cover appearance on System magazine, fans tracked him on social media and showed up en masse, the numbers no doubt boosted by Naomi Campbell’s Instagram story at the event. Abloh’s friend and predecessor at Vuitton, Kim Jones, who is credited for magnifying streetwear’s role in the storied French fashion house when he took over in 2011, is also a key player, showing bomber jackets, tennis shoes and backpacks in his first collection for the brand. Sneakers, GQ claims, remain one of the bestselling items on Vuitton’s extensive portfolio. It probably officially hit peak-athleisure in 2017, when the juggernaut of fashion collaborations, a surprising partnership between streetwear stalwart Supreme and Parisian luxury brand Louis Vuitton somehow happened. The hype for the collaboration was almost inescapable, even though early news of the project attracted swift criticism of being a betrayal on Supreme’s part. The collection, to no one’s shock, was indeed a massive sellout, and promptly cemented Jones’ clout and place in fashion history, making men rethink the place of graphic T-shirts in their wardrobes. Obviously, it’s impossible to discuss sportswear’s transition to high fashion and discount Riccardo Tisci’s contribution to the genre, Givenchy being one of the first few luxury fashion houses to introduce sportswear to the catwalks of Paris. Tisci, now at Burberry, often presented sharply designed, instantly recognisable pieces that took references from surfing and basketball for the French label, incorporating technical fabric such as
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neoprene into his designs. So it might have come as a surprise when, talking about his collaboration with NikeLab, he told Highsnobiety that sportswear had become too fashionable. “When it became too gimmicky, too colourful, too crazy, it wasn’t sportswear anymore.” Perhaps that’s why, despite speculation that Tisci might have been tempted to recreate the street appeal and success with his dark subversive designs at his former employer, he ultimately decided to lean into the brand’s English tailoring history for his debut collection at Burberry. Trench coats, of course, it goes without saying. But also bicycle chains wrapped around sharp suits, graphic prints and pop culture references (Bambi) and at least one hoodie. Is this where men’s fashion postsportswear is heading? Abloh seems to think so, showing crisp white tailored pieces in his debut
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collection for Louis Vuitton. “Yeah, you know, they thought it would be streetwear,” he laughingly told Vogue at his recent autumn 2019 show, but he subverted expectations by doubling down on mastering tailoring, showing masculine sleek coats, sharp blazers and
Kim Jones introduced a playful new take on Dior’s signature fashionforward approach to tailoring.
Robb Report
fluid trousers amid his Michael Jackson tribute pieces. Kim Jones’s Dior Men also presented exquisitely tailored suits and shirts; he had clearly honed his mastery of the male silhouette during his stints at Louis Vuitton and Alfred Dunhill. His iteration of the Dior man takes it even further by incorporating the maison’s couture expertise into menswear, fusing traditional craftsmanship with modern innovative techniques. Toile de Jouy patterns are turned into fabric, flowers are the exact copy of Monsieur Dior’s porcelain – the result is deeply, unabashedly soft. “I’d call it romantic, rather than feminine,” says Jones.
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John Galliano was similarly inspired, telling Vogue he was struck by the shift in formal dress codes by the youth he had seen at the Met Gala, calling it a “seismic change”. He brings his mastery of haute couture techniques, typically reserved only for women’s fashion, to his spring/summer 2019 collection for Maison Margiela. Titled Artisanal, it’s a breathtaking showcase of Galliano’s wild imagination and undisputed skill as a couturier. Using a difficult bias cut on the fabrics gave the pieces sublime drape and movement, done specifically to evoke the insouciant charm of Humphrey Bogart. Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton also seems to advocate for a beautiful cut or a well-tailored suit over a fashionable trainer. There was nary a sneaker in sight on her spring/summer 2019 men’s catwalk. McQueen has always been a craft-forward, tailoring brand, despite its
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Riccardo Tisci gave Burberry a brand-wide overhaul when he took on the creative director mantle last year.
He isn’t alone in his push for gender diversity or diversity in general. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, Loewe’s JW Anderson and Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia are constantly challenging gender stereotypes, the status quo and even the roles each of their storied fashion houses play in luxury. Gvasalia, a Georgian designer who owns the hiply ironic Vetements, brought fresh hype and controversy to Balenciaga, inserting it almost effortlessly into the cultural zeigeist with
Kim Jones incorporated the maison’s couture expertise into menswear. edgy, darkly romantic reputation. In fact, its late great founder, Lee McQueen cut his teeth on Savile Row and commanded great respect for his skill at cutting and draping. “Tailoring forms the backbone to this collection,” said the Alexander McQueen press notes, echoing Galliano’s sentiments in his Margiela podcast. But while McQueen proposes classic and classically male silhouettes, Galliano’s Margiela is androgynous. Presenting super-skinny gleaming vinyl trousers, embroidered kimonos and corsets at his spring/summer 2019 show, he blurred the gender lines further with his co-ed show for autumn/winter 2019.
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Ikea bags and platform Crocs that begged to be memed. Although he eschews the irony (and streetwear) for spring/ summer 2019, his play on volume, proportion and extrawide, extra-square shoulders aren’t exactly office-ready either. But then again, neither are Michele’s Lurex-velvetbedazzled-fringed creations at Gucci. But maybe that’s the point. Maybe they’re saying that the codes for menswear have irrevocably changed. It’s time to make new ones.
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IWho, What, Wear?I
Robb Report
Who said you need to invest in an entirely new wardrobe to be a 21st-century sartorial savant? We have you covered with this easy guide to effortless style. By Hazel Vincent De Paul
ATHLEISURE
The low-down
Trackpants for dinner? Yes please! If there’s one trend men are happy to borrow from the ladies, it’s that of athleisure: it started with women wearing yoga pants for occasions other than yoga, and has since become the go-to for those seeking comfort over style. This sector was valued more than US$83 billion in 2016 and is predicted to grow by 30 per cent in Asia and US by 2020.
Update the look
Keep it simple and step out for brunch in trefoil hoodies or monochrome track pants from Adidas. If you really want to get with the kids, incorporate bolder colours and pieces, like the ones from Nike x Matthew Williams’s spring/summer 2019 collaboration.
PREPPY
The low-down
Associated with the Ivy League, preppy fashion established itself in the late 1950s, quickly becoming the go-to for every self-respecting WASP. But it’s on the rise again (did it ever really fade away?), thanks to collections by the likes of Noah by Brendon Babenzien and, unexpectedly, Swedish label Acne Studios.
Update the look
Based on this year’s spring/summer runways, it’s in for bold stripes and out for minimalism. Opt for a tighter fit that’ll validate the many hours spent at F45 – vertical stripes complement broader chests, while those with a smaller build should opt for more flattering horizontal ones. For the final flourish, pair your look with leather sneakers.
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BLACK TIE
The low-down
If there’s one item of clothing that every man needs in his wardrobe, it’s the dinner jacket. A staple since the 19th century, it is known as the tuxedo in the US, named after the town of Tuxedo Park in New York State, where the dinner jacket was first introduced to Europhiles in 1886.
Update the look
Take a cue from Hollywood A-listers like Michael B Jordan and Adam Rippon and pair your outfit with a harness – one of Virgil Abloh’s first creations as Louis Vuitton’s artistic director.
CORPORATE WEAR
The low-down
Corporate wear in the West typically brings to mind the ‘readyto-wear’ suit. However, this style’s definition has been evolving since the 1990s thanks to the introduction of casual Fridays.
Update the look
Relaxed-leg trousers are slowly gaining popularity, with brands like Ermenegildo Zegna and Armani incorporating wide-legged looks on the runway. Use single- or double-pleats to create clean lines from hip to ankle. Alternatively, go for carrot silhouettes, which are roomy on top and tapered at the ankle, and pair the trousers with loafers or even sneakers.
STREETWEAR
The low-down
Originating in Los Angeles in the 1970s, streetwear remained a subculture for cool urban youths in the know, until recently. What catapulted it to the mainstream was Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with cult favourite, Supreme, a couple of years ago. Since then, it’s infiltrated our wardrobes, in the form of ripped jeans and your Nike Air Max sneakers .
Update the look
The fanny pack has become this season’s hottest accessory. Wear yours around your waist, across your chest, draped behind your back or carry it in your hand.
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Robb Report
ISole SearchingI Put a spring in your step with dress shoes that do double duty.
Lighten Your Load Bruno Magli’s ultralightweight Iko neutral tassel loafers will go with just about anything, from your suit to your denim, without weighing you down.
By PAIGE REDDINGER Photography by JOSHUA SCOTT Styling by CHARLES W BUMGARDNER
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Footloose and Flexible Ermenegildo Zegna’s dark brown L’Asola loafers, combining flexible soles and soft lamb-nappa uppers, are so comfortable they’ll feel like slippers.
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Competitive Edge These Hubertus calf-leather shoes from Christian Louboutin are business up top and adventure down below, with unobtrusive rubber lug soles made for stepping off-road in style.
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IWhich Tux Should You Wear to Your Next Gala?I traditionalist
peacock
style conscious
Is this your first tux?
Are you hanging out with Henry Golding?
Do you frequent red-carpet events?
Yes
No
No
Yes
Are you still on the wedding circuit? Yes
Yes
Which award show are you more likely to attend?
Do you want to get noticed, too?
No
Let him shine
No
Yes
Grammys
Oscars
Do you already own a tuxedo?
What about supermodels?
Is this tux for lavish parties?
No
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Are you the arm candy?
Visit your tailor to look sharp again.
Yes
Do you have royal bloodlines? No
Yes
Are you an Ivy League grad? No
No
No
Are you capping off the night with a cigar? Yes
Do you even need a tux?
No
Are you looking for a date? No
Yes
Yes
Ralph Lauren
Salle Privée
Dunhill
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Tom Ford
Turnbull & Asher
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Robb Report
ITools of the TradeI This season, update your classics with relaxed silhouettes, punchy colours and monochromatic hues. The resulting look? Laidback with a hint of panache.
Photography by vanho Harlim
and Shysilia Novita Styling by Sifra Vania
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Ermenegildo Zegna
(www.zegna.com) cotton blend vest, blazer and polyester trousers; Cartier (www.cartier.sg) Santos de Cartier watch. Facing page:
Brunello Cucinelli (www.
brunellocucinelli. com) linen shirt and wool blend trousers; Hugo Boss (www.hugoboss. com) polyester blend blazer;
Vacheron Constantin
(www.vacheronconstantin.com) Fiftysix self-winding watch.
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Robb Report
Brunello Cucinelli cotton T-shirt and wool trousers;
Ermenegildo Zegna cashmere jacket;
Cartier Tank CintrĂŠe watch.
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Hugo Boss wool sweater and cotton coat; Brunello Cucinelli wool blend blazer and cotton blend trousers; Ermenegildo Zegna leather shoes.
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Brunello Cucinelli wool blend vest and linen jacket;
Ermenegildo Zegna leather trousers;
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar watch.
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Models: Luigi A, Andrea T / Ave
April - 2019
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Hugo Boss wool blazer and wool blend vest; Dunhill (www.dunhill. com) wool blend blazer and trousers; Ermenegildo Zegna leather shoes.
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Robb Report
IA Fair TradeI There’s a growing demand for social awareness in the fashion industry as designers and brands are facing the consequences for their missteps and misguided efforts. But we have to ask: is being ‘woke’ just another fad? By Gillian Rhys
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3/19/19 2:16 PM
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I
n the days after Karl Lagerfeld’s passing, news outlets were awash with eulogies praising his numerous contributions to the world of fashion and his untiring quest for beauty. But a dark side slowly emerged from this whirlpool of information: a small number of activists rose up to remind people that Lagerfeld, in fact, would regularly make damaging comments about women’s bodies. Yet, as creative director of two of the world’s most influential brands, his reputation remained untarnished and his scope of work untouched. Would such behaviour be tolerated in today’s climate? If we had to venture a guess, the answer would be a resounding no. The keyword in the fashion industry today is ‘woke’. Recent racist and unsavoury actions by the top luxury brands have been called out by socially conscious millennials and Gen Z, who are demanding more accountability from these designers. The State of Fashion 2019 report by McKinsey & Company and The Business of Fashion states: “Younger consumers are seriously concerned with social and environmental causes. They increasingly back their beliefs with their shopping habits, favouring brands that are aligned with their values and avoiding those that don’t.” In fact, the report found that two thirds of consumers worldwide say they would “switch or boycott brands based on their stance on controversial issues”.
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Socially Conscious
The writing’s on the wall: if brands want to continue to stay relevant to the next gen, they need to be culturally diverse, aware of racism, sustainable, socially responsible, politically correct and vaunt fair business practices, all while supporting worthy causes. A tall order, but international fashion editor, creative consultant and social influencer Navaz Batliwalla believes that being woke is not a passing fad. “Being socially and culturally aware really needs to be a long-term commitment from a business standpoint. Gen Z is the future luxury consumer and this generation is increasingly invested in social causes. For them, fair business practices, diverse representation and a sustainable approach are a requirement, not a ‘nice to have’. They will call out missteps with their social media voices and vote accordingly with their wallets.” Those who don’t adhere are already facing consequences. Case in point: Dolce & Gabbana. Following its scandalous ‘chopstick’ videos that many felt promoted anti-Chinese sentiment, the brand was forced to cancel its November 2018 show in Shanghai. Moreover, several luxury e-commerce sites in China were also quick to drop the brand from their inventory, despite the public apology from founders Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. At press time, the brand’s luxury offerings were not listed on Net-aPorter’s China, Hong Kong or Singapore sites. Additionally, Lane Crawford, a luxury
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THE Fundamentals of style
Robb Report
A brand committing to a cause needs to do it in order to make a difference, not because it looks good on Instagram. department store in China and Hong Kong, has removed Dolce & Gabbana from its offering after customers returned its products. Lane Crawford’s president, Andrew Keith, said: “We believe that brands need to be aware of the cultural implications of their actions and understand the potential backlash when customers feel their values have been disrespected.” However, China has its fair share of racist history to contend with, lest anyone forget the infamous advertisement where a black man morphed into a Chinese man after being put into a washing machine. It didn’t generate controversy until months later, when an English media outlet in the country picked it up and put it on blast. Simply put, the responsibility to be socially conscious doesn’t just lie with Western brands; the rules also apply to brands in Asia that want longevity, especially as their demographic becomes younger and more vocal. The thing is, customers can smell sincerity from a mile away. They appreciate the efforts of designers such as Singapore-born, New York-based Prabal Gurung, who’s been praised as one of the more ‘woke’ persons in fashion today. The designer champions diversity, feminism,
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transgender rights and social causes through his products and social media persona. Other brands such as Veja and Stella McCartney have made sustainable fashion their pet causes, and have walked the talk with the use of organic materials and upholding fair-trade practices. At the Stella McCartney Paris fashion week autumn/ winter 2019 show, the designer unveiled her support to protect the Leuser rainforest ecosystem in Sumatra and promoted upcycling by repurposing fabric from previous collections. Using fashion as a platform to protest political and social injustices is not new – remember Katherine Hamnett, who wore a T-shirt proclaiming ‘58%
Above: Singapore-born, American-based designer Prabal Gurung has been lauded for hiring a diverse cast of models; Stella McCartney has committed to sustainable fashion. Previous page: Gucci faced a backlash for its blackface sweater.
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Don’t Want Pershing’ (in response to Pershing missiles that were stationed in the UK), when she met Margaret Thatcher in 1984? The designer continues to protest and regularly makes statements against Brexit and Donald Trump. While taking a public political stand might cause some brands to baulk, it seems like today’s consumers appreciate authenticity as long as it aligns with their beliefs. Therein lies another complexity – being socially conscious should be intrinsic to the brand’s values and cannot seem like a chore.
Truth be Told
The way to go about is by being sincere and by weaving social consciousness into the very fabric of the brand. It is no longer a separate issue championed by the corporate social responsibility department, only flagged up when positive press is required. Kathryn Bishop, deputy foresight editor at trends consultancy The Future Laboratory says: “Unless it underpins the brand,
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‘wokeness’ often appears tokenistic and transitory. A brand committing to a cause needs to do it in order to make a difference or motivate long-term change, not because it looks good on Instagram, sells T-shirts or grabs headlines for a week. The key difference is putting words into long-term, tangible action.” “Social consciousness has to be seen to be coming from a genuine place,” emphasises Batliwalla. “Millennials would rather see social aspects implemented behind the scenes; woven into the business culture or the supply chain rather than a slogan on a shirt. And it’s important to have diverse representation within the corporate and creative teams.” Calls for diversity alongside cries of racism have also pushed designer label heads to move quickly when trouble brews – something we witnessed with fashion house Prada recently. The brand’s Otto Toto collectible keychain, shaped as a dark wooden monkey with oversized red lips, drew an onslaught of public backlash, with social media users condemning the brand for blackface imagery and racism. The brand was quick to launch a ‘diversity council’ after withdrawing the collectible. Internal diversity measures and cultural awareness training were also the go-to options for Gucci and Burberry, following their respective blackface and noose sweater scandals. But this move also drew criticism, with people of colour asking one simple question: would it not be more effective to hire people of colour to work at the brand instead of launching separate councils? As the Dolce & Gabbana scandal has proven, an apology is simply not enough anymore. Its next moves will be carefully monitored and it’ll have to shake up its core foundation if it hopes to weather the storm. Similarly, we have to ask: are the steps taken by Prada, Gucci and Burberry enough to safeguard them against the negative impact on sales? Numbers will show, but suffice to say, brands need to remember that their consumers are diverse – in terms of race, cultures, genders and beliefs – and that a fundamental change in their daily practices needs to be affected, now.
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Robb Report
ISubstance Over FlashI A new definition of luxury haute horlogerie is upon us. By Celine Yap
O
ne of the most common reasons why a mechanical watch loses its chronometric precision is magnetism. Because the movement within is made up of iron-based metal components, prolonged exposure to magnetic fields will cause them to be magnetised. When that happens to the critical timekeeping components, a watch will begin to run either too fast or slow, or it may stop working entirely. Mechanical watches require some degree of proper handling. It’s shockingly easy to break even a simple three-hand automatic movement, especially one with the date display. Most watch collectors know that before adjusting the date, one must always change the time first to position the hour and minute hands below the three and nine o’clock level. This prevents the gears of the date mechanism from jamming up. With grand complications, things get far more complicated. Perpetual calendars and minute repeaters are notoriously vulnerable to any form of mishandling, which is guaranteed to send the entire system of wheels, springs, racks and snails into a tailspin. Unless your watch was made within the last five years. That was when the result of years of technical R&D spearheaded by the industry’s leading firms finally trickled down to the market at large. They focused on improving the core aspects of watchmaking. Age-old bugbears relating to magnetism, precision and robustness could soon be a thing of the past thanks to these innovative marques.
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Omega: Anti-magnetism Magnetism has been an issue for watchmakers since time immemorial. The most straightforward method of protecting the movement from magnetisation is to encase it in a Faraday cage. Most amagnetic timepieces are made this way but in 2015 Omega introduced a new solution which eliminates the use of a Faraday cage altogether. With the Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 gauss, Omega went back to the roots of historical watchmaking. Its movement, the Co-Axial Calibre 8508, utilised key components fashioned out of non-ferrous materials, so it needed no protection whatsoever from magnetic fields. The material in question is silicon. Not only was it a more elegant solution – a Faraday cage requires a thicker case and did not
The 42mm version of the Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M is available with a stainless steel bracelet or a rubber strap.
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allow an exhibition case back or a date display – the watch was 15 times more resilient to magnetic forces than a standard amagnetic watch. The latter could typically withstand fields of up to 1,000 gauss while the Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 gauss, as its name suggested, wouldn’t be fazed by a staggering 15,000. Even more impressively, the watch is a COSC-certified chronometer and remains so even after strong magnetic exposure.
Photos: Patek Philippe / JD Meyer
Patek Philippe: Superior Robustness
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Patek Philippe’s Ref 5531 World Time Minute Repeater chimes the time, accurately to the second, at its current location.
Mechanical watches are a pleasure to behold but they very often need to be handled with care. As a complications specialist, Patek Philippe has always been a role model in the industry. Indeed, the quality of a Patek Philippe timepiece is palpable inside and out. One of the stars of its 2018 novelties is the Grand Complication Ref 5531R. Offering an impressive combination of world timer and minute repeater, along with a beautiful cloisonné enamel dial, Ref 5531R showcases the level of excellence synonymous with any Patek Philippe. For starters, the movement is padded with safety mechanisms to prevent damage by mishandling. When the strike train is in motion, the crown is locked so you can’t make adjustments to the time. In addition, the chiming mechanism is extra precise and always reads the time as at the end of the strike instead of the beginning. Another impressive feature here relates to the gongs which are attached to the case, rather than the base plate, yielding louder chimes. With such an ingenious movement construction, Patek Philippe proves that constant innovation is the way to secure the future.
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Robb Report
has the ability to be manipulated in very small parts, unlike ceramic which has a low tolerance for pressure. This allows IWC to fashion other parts of the watch such as the pushers and the crown in Ceratanium, in addition to the case components. Clockwise from left: IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium; Ceratanium in a furnace; the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection with iinterchangeable bracelets and clasps.
Vacheron Constantin: Interchangeable Straps
Just as we want to wear different shoes from time to time, we want to wear our watches with different straps in different situations. This was never a possibility until watch brands decided to put their thinking caps on and come up with quick and easy attachment mechanisms. Vacheron Constantin offers interchangeable straps with its Overseas collection, delivering a selection of beautiful designs with each model. In addition to the iconic Maltese Cross designed bracelet, the Vacheron
IWC: Scratch-resistance
Like the body of a car, the case of a watch is its first line of defence against any sort of impact. Scratches, dings, and corrosion marks are an eventuality, and while polishing easily solves most of these issues, over-polishing is another problem altogether. This is why brands invest heavily in creating scratchproof treatments and materials. IWC Schaffhausen is one good example. The manufacture was one of the earliest adopters of ceramic cases and has recently introduced a new ceramic-titanium alloy named Ceratanium. Blessed with the tensile strength and malleability of titanium, as well as the scratch resistance of hypoallergenic ceramic, Ceratanium made its first appearance in 2018 in the Aquatimer collection, returning this year in the Pilot’s Watches line. It is also highly corrosion-resistant and as light as all other titanium alloys. Most importantly, Ceratanium
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Elesedici ulparunt inciatiora nia que qui ne eicabor eperchici incimus adist od mo occae nobitat iuscill ecereius, con nem eum fugia vetis eum qui consed
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Constantin Overseas comes with a luxurious alligator leather strap and another one in rubber. Changing between the three options is as easy as unlocking the spring-loaded catch on the underside of the lugs. Requiring absolutely no extra tools, it could be done in a matter of seconds. An interchangeable strap system is great also because it allows you to care for your watch better, especially since leather doesn’t take well to water exposure. Plus, a full metal bracelet may not be practical for everyday wear. Finally, this solution also lends itself well to watch sharing between spouses – what a superb idea!
Blancpain: Inspired Craftsmanship
What makes the difference between a watch and a timepiece lies in the finish, how it has been polished, bevelled, engraved and decorated. For ages, that’s the benchmark in haute horlogerie. But in the new millennium, brands have taken it upon themselves to search further afield
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the Fundamentals of style
for new techniques that bring luxury watchmaking to the next level. Having introduced such exotic time-honoured crafts as damascening, shakudo and binchotan, Blancpain has unlocked a world of new possibilities in haute horlogerie. In addition to techniques, Blancpain has also boldly embraced a plethora of design motifs inspired by cultures from all over the world. Its Métiers d’Art collection has featured an interpretation of a Japanese Torii gate, feminine icons in Chinese legend, the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac, and the Swiss mountainous festival known as Battle of the Queen Cows. Métiers d’Art may not have anything to do with timekeeping, or preserving the quality of a watch, but it has everything to do with elevating the watchmaker’s craft from science to art. Indeed, when companies are finally making watches on par with today’s level of technology, yielding waterproof minute repeaters, shock-resistant tourbillons, and perpetual calendars you don’t need to tiptoe around, so have artisans widened their scope to keep exploring new frontiers. As the saying goes, they don’t make them like they used to, but sometimes that’s not a bad thing.
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Through the Métiers d’Art watches, Blancpain’s artisans perpetuate the ancestral skills that are transmitted from one generation to the next.
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IFacing the FutureI The steady growth of the men’s grooming industry has meant that male skincare products are now considered an essential part of the modern man’s arsenal. Could make-up for men be the next frontier? By Renyi Lim
W
hy did men stop using makeup? In 10,000 BC, Egyptian men made liberal use of kohl powder to line their eyes and eyebrows, while Alexander the Great became a notable enthusiast of grooming, make-up and aromatics following his military campaign into Asia. The Iceni tribe of the British Isles were said to have dyed their bodies blue with woad before battle, while their Roman adversaries occasionally sported rouged cheeks and complexions whitened with chalk. And yet, somewhere along the line, make-up for men fell out of fashion. During the Victorian era, it was labelled an abomination and considered the work of the devil. But make-up for men is back with a vengeance. With the boom of the metrosexual movement in the 1990s and 2000s, major pharmacies in the UK began
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stocking ‘guyliner’ and ‘manscara’ to satisfy the curiosities of would-be Russell Brands and David Beckhams. The concept may have been novel at best, but they were onto something: where the high street cosmetics brands ventured, the luxury beauty industry soon followed. The Tom Ford’s For Men range includes concealer, bronzing gel, brow definer and a brow gelcomb. The recently launched Boy de Chanel make-up line’s star products happen to be their foundation (available in eight shades) and waterproof eyebrow pencil. With other brands launching everything from tinted moisturisers to clear nail polish for men, the prediction that the global male grooming products market will reach a value of US$78.6 billion by 2023 doesn’t appear
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Chanel launched the first three Boy de Chanel products – foundation, lip balm and eyebrow pencil – in South Korea last September.
wildly outlandish. “It’s completely understandable that a guy should want to take care of himself and in every culture this means something different,” says Gregor Jaspers, founder of The Grey Men’s Skincare. “We all know Asia is at the forefront of this and that western Europe will follow,” he adds, in a nod to the progressive attitudes of the South Korean beauty industry. Research firm Euromonitor estimated that Korean men spend more on cosmetics than any other men in the world, averaging a yearly expenditure of US$39 per man in 2015. “Make-up is there to express one’s personality. We will experience immense growth in the use of make-
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up for men in every form. I started using BB and CC creams to test and review for our own development and my opinion changed 180 degrees. We at The Grey will be launching a CC cream that’s easy to use and adapts to your skin colour just to even out your complexion and give you that extra hint of confidence you might need at certain moments.” Other grooming specialists, such as Spencer Wallace – one half of the duo behind Beast London, a pioneering store that offers a curated selection of the best men’s products from around the world – remains partial towards emphasising the virtues of good skincare. “My regime starts with what I eat. Gut health is key to good skin and overall health. There is little point in spending money on products if you aren’t looking after your gut biome. Take care of your body’s ecosystem, drink lots of water and the foundation is there. “Most of our customers’ concerns centre around ageing, dry skin or oily skin. Whatever their concern, we try to educate them about looking at their diet and lifestyle, and to use products free from chemicals and parabens. A holistic approach is vital. Most skin responds well to being calmed and nurtured.” Would Wallace be open to incorporating makeup into his own regime? “No, but the younger guys in our store do and they look amazing. “There is a degree of interest in men’s makeup from our customers, but we don’t feel there is anything on the market that’s quite right for us at the moment. Women’s make-up is incredibly advanced, and if anything, we would advise customers to buy items from those lines. The challenge is that women’s products contain a large volume of light-reflecting particles, which are a step too far for some guys. It is, however, a very interesting area and something we’re looking to fulfil with products we think would be a good fit.” For those wondering how to get started, the trick to men’s make-up – according to Jaspers – is subtlety. “If done correctly, you can create an all-natural, healthy, glowing look that no one will see as ‘makeup’. If you desire more and want to shine instead of glow, the possibilities are endless.”
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ITreat Your SkinI Exfoliation, moisturisation, fillers, sun protection – if this jargon isn’t already in your vocabulary, it’s time to get with the skincare programme. By Hazel Vincent De Paul
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ust a few years ago, it would have been almost impossible for brands to pitch campaigns for men’s facial creams and skincare routines without facing backlash for being emasculating or pandering to their vanity. Thankfully, times have changed since David Beckham’s muchdebated metrosexual outing in the early 2000s. Not only have changing societal norms and the rapid dissolution of gender stereotypes over the past decade improved the lives of women, but it also ushered in a fundamental concept: self-
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care for the modern man. While the number of brands launching skincare ranges for men has exploded in the past decade, the question begs to be asked: have men been bit by the skincare bug? The numbers would suggest a resounding yes. Research company Euromonitor International reports that the men’s skincare sector in Singapore hit S$15 million in retail sales in 2015 – a number that’s set to rise to S$141 million by 2021. Additionally, the global market for men’s skincare products is predicted to grow by 3.34 per cent over the next five years, according to a BusinessWire.com report. Not too shabby for a market that was so ruthlessly dismissed just two decades ago. What led to this change, you ask? The answer is really quite simple. Men want to look good and feel great, the same way women do. As such, more skincare brands are offering diverse, yet simple skincare options for the modern man who wants to prevent the signs of ageing while achieving healthier skin. So if you haven’t already hopped on to the #mampering bandwagon (that’s #manpampering, for the uninitiated), we’d recommend you get to it because skincare for men is no longer a luxury, but a necessity.
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For Easy Cleansing
Susanne Kaufmann’s Cleansing Gel Line M contains witch hazel, anti-inflammatory ingredients such as ribwort, and biodegradable sugar surfactants made from renewable raw materials, the light gel clears impurities from your skin and balances its pH value without drying it out. www.susannekaufmann.com
For Post-Shave Irritation
Shaving daily can help minimise wrinkles, remove skin secretions and improve your overall skin health. But it also comes with a host of unwanted side effects such as razor burn. Beat the burn with Aesop’s Moroccan Neroli Shaving Duet. The shaving serum has a maximum slip texture to help you achieve a razor-close shave and skin-calming properties. Pair that with the post-shave lotion, which contains soothing natural ingredients that soften and hydrate skin. www.aesop.com
For A Revitalised Appearance
A weekly clay mask treatment can do wonders for your skin. Try Tom Ford’s Intensive Purifying Mud Mask to counter the effects of your busy lifestyle. The mask turns light grey upon application, drawing out toxins that are trapped within your pores. It also helps diminish tension lines, leaving you looking more refreshed. www.tomford.com
For Silky, Smooth Skin
Dry, flaky skin doesn’t just itch; it can also be embarrassing in social situations. Treat yourself with La Mer’s luxurious Crème de la Mer, which soothes and moisturises skin. Before applying, warm the cream for a few seconds between your fingers until it’s translucent to activate the cream’s ‘miracle broth’. www.cremedelamer.com
For Sun Protection
Before you head out, slap on a solid layer of Lab Series’ BB Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 35. The lightweight formula adjusts to any skin tone, refines pores, minimises lines and wrinkles, and protects your skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays, which can result in premature ageing. www.labseries.com
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For When You Need A Little Extra Help These days, men are also turning to aesthetic procedures to help combat ageing, says Dr Sylvia Ramirez, co-founder and medical and scientific director of Cutis Medical Laser Clinics. “More men want to look more chiselled and refreshed, without resorting to drastic measures like surgery, which is why Cutis offers a range of minimally invasive aesthetics procedures that can help boost your skin’s appearance,” says Dr Ramirez.
For Reducing Puffy Eyes
Dermal fillers – an injectable gel used to ‘fill’ in specific parts of the face that have lost volume – can help minimise fine lines and eye bags by providing a subtle, lifting effect without changing your natural facial features. Fillers are typically made with hyaluronic acid, but can also be made with calcium – both are designed to stimulate collagen production and break down slowly and safely over time.
For Minimising Wrinkles
Disturbed by creases on your forehead or by crow’s feet? Dr Ramirez recommends male botox aka ‘Brotox’. The FDA-approved anti-wrinkle procedure temporarily blocks signals from a nerve to a muscle, allowing the muscle that causes wrinkles to relax and soften. “Choose a doctor who is ‘conservative’ in injecting Botox units because you won’t want to look like Spock afterwards,” advises Dr Ramirez.
For Effective Hair Removal
If you’re ready to ditch the razors, then medicalgrade hair removal may be the answer you’re looking for. Cutis, for example, offers three body and facial hair removal procedures: Laser Hair Removal, LHE (Light and Heat) Hair Removal Technology and Prowave IPL Hair Removal. These can remove hair from the face, arms, legs, chest or back, and are suitable for different skin types. www.cutislaserclinics.com
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An increasing number of aesthetic clinics now cater to men, and offer different procedures that target varying skin concerns.
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Robb Report
Striking a Balance Concourse Skyline Penthouse presented by Robb Report is an exercise in elegance and refined living. We speak to The I.D. Dept, which designed the interior of the Penthouse, on what it takes to deck out a dream home. By Charmaine Tai
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Clockwise from far left: customised chandelier by Nathalie Ziegler Pasqua; customised light installation by Lasvit; Ron Arad’s Rocking Chair, from Affluency.
Photo: Daniel Koh
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What are some misconceptions that clients have when it comes to designing large spaces? DA: A room should never be full of furniture when you first move in. As you travel, you’ll collect items. It’s an accumulative process over time. Start slow; get the bare essentials like a dining table, dining chairs and a sofa. Your lounge chairs and side tables are add-ons. They can be eclectic pieces that give character to a space. Some of our clients also send us pictures sometimes and ask if a particular item would work in their current home design. How do I decide on the right amount of furniture for my living room? FH: The number of seats in a living or dining room is often dictated by the number of rooms you have. For a threebedroom home, you’ll need about eight
“The number of seats in a living or dining room is often dictated by the number of rooms you have.”
hen it comes to designing your dream home and filling it with furniture and artwork, the important questions are invariably linked to time and budget. Then, the next big consideration is: how much is too much? Robb Report Singapore speaks to Divya Anthony (DA), design director, and Fiona Ho (FH), associate design director, both from luxury interior design firm, The I.D. Dept, on what it takes to ensure you’ve struck a balance.
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seats. That’s one big sofa and two lounge chairs. It shouldn’t be overcrowded. Despite having only two bedrooms within the Concourse Skyline Penthouse, we set up a seating space for at least 12, given that the owner will likely host regular parties. For rooms that come with a stunning view, how do you ensure that the panorama is not overshadowed by the decor? DA: A room with a view has two looks: a day scene and a night scene. During the day, you see everything. At night, the mood changes. You’ll see the twinkling of the lights and the decor of the bedroom comes alive. Use neutral tones for the bed, headboard and bedroom bench. Pastel colours work as they won’t fight with either view. Interior lighting is important. Panel
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Clockwise from above: The Urban Fabric Forbidden City rug from Affluency is utilised as a wall hanging; Kaldewei Soundwave bathtub; Peony Light by Maurizio Galante and Tai Lancman; Nathalie Ziegler Pasqua chandelier.
Robb Report
lights provide a soft glow and they don’t fight with the light coming from outside. The magic in the Penthouse’s master bedroom is the artwork that sits behind the headboard. The unique art decostyle wallpaper is a collaboration between Giorgetti (provided by Space Furniture) and de Gournay (provided by Tatum). But you don’t notice it when you first enter the room. You’ll first see the view and it’s only when you turn your head that you’ll then notice the wallpaper. How do you help clients narrow their ideas down to form one big picture? DA: Today’s clients know their design and what they like. Everyone’s pretty techsavvy, and they often use Pinterest and Instagram for ideas. They’ll come to us with images they like.
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“It’s all about the journey and making an entrance.”
Clients may show us 10 pictures, each with a different look, but in every image, there’s usually just one thing they like. It could be the colour scheme or the wall texture. It’s knowing what exactly the client likes and then working around it. How do you improve a space that does not have an impact? DA: It’s all about the journey and making an entrance. If your ceiling isn’t high, you can elongate the space by placing mirrors in the ceiling. You can also think about using a statement piece, be it a piece of art or furniture, to grab the attention when you walk in. Would you recommend customising pieces for homes then? DA: It depends on the space, as that dictates the items you’ll be needing. In the case
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of the Concourse Skyline Penthouse, it has a coastal view. In the living area, we asked Lasvit to design a bespoke crystal chandelier that sits above the grand piano. The finish on this is pearlised to reflect the mother-of-pearl sheen seen in oysters. It’s a subtle representation of what the view is about. FH: It’s also about being able to see the product for different purposes, apart from what it was intended for. For example, for the Penthouse, we took a rug from Affluency and turned it into a backdrop on a wall. Is there an underrated space that homeowners should pay more attention to? DA: The bathroom, definitely. Have you been to a hotel or a restaurant and your friends go, “You need to look at the
bathroom?” It happens all the time. They talk about the mirrors, the seating area… that is a talking point. We worked with Gessi to do up the powder room in the Penthouse. There’s a wall of chandeliers in there. We already have Lasvit’s cascading chandelier in the living area, so this is a different kind of ‘drama’ that catches people’s attention. How far would you push a conservative client to be adventurous? FH: In one of our projects, the client wanted something toned down and neutral. We kept what she wanted, but we also put in a huge 1.8m ostrich feather lamp in the corner. The client loved it because the room, while kept simple, had a hint of surprise and playfulness. www.theiddept.com
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Robb Report
A Star is Born Cartier explores the cosmos through its experimental Les Galaxies de Cartier collection. By Renyi Lim
Clockwise from above: The Lights of the Earth ring; The Vibration of the Stars bracelet; The Alignment of the Planets bracelet.
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a r t ier vent u res into unknown territory as design and craftsmanship, weightlessness and gravity, and reality and fantasy collide in its limited-edition Les Galaxies de Cartier collection. An examination of four themes connected through space – the alignment of the planets, fractal meteors, the Earth’s lights and trembling stars – aims to defy the conventional laws of jewellery. Present in the collection are allusions to the Milky Way with its solar systems and black holes, a view of the Earth from space at night, and the astrological phenomenon of planetary alignment. Each piece in the collection (which is priced between €12,000 and €205,000) builds on new materials and allows
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its wearer to experience unprecedented visual, tactile and sound sensations. Tahitian pearls roll across skin, fiery opals and blue sapphires emit quivering light, and mobile diamonds dance in Cartier’s serti vibrant or trembling setting. The star of the show – a bracelet featuring an irregular mesh of square cones formed from pink gold, diamonds, moonstone and milky quartz – infinitely diffracts light, reminding us of our origins from meteorites, asteroids and stardust crystallised over several million years. www.cartier.com
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Robb Report
High-Tech Meets High Watchmaking
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Modern engineering fuels the innovative watchmaking found at the Panerai manufacture. By Wei-Yu Wang
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Panerai has come a long way from its humble origins. The brand began in 1860 as a small store dealing in Swiss watches in the Italian city of Florence, owned by one Giovanni Panerai. These days it is a manufacturer in its own right, producing its own movements and heralded for watches of distinctive design, innovation and incredible durability. 3/19/19 14:28
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hile Panerai still maintains the original Florence storefront (technically the second location as the store moved once early on from its Arno River location), the maison’s current manufacture is quite far removed from history. Located in the Swiss town of Neuchâtel, the premises opened in 2014 and is not so much a tradition-bound atelier secreted away in the mountains as it is a modern engineering facility. It begins with the building itself: the over-10,000 sq m facility is very ecologically minded, drawing heat from geothermal sources underground, recycling rainwater and using solar cells to heat water. The brand also has a policy that charges employees for parking personal vehicles and funnels that money back into incentives for using public transport or other eco-friendly options. It is a contemporary mindset that befits an organisation that is youthful at heart. The average age at the manufacture is just 38 years old, which is rather young by industry standards. This is particularly true of the design team, evidenced by the schedule board which is constructed out of Lego. It is a functional set-up, but one that is infused with playfulness and personality. “This is quite funny,” says chief operating officer Jérôme Cavadini of the Lego board, “but if you want dedicated and motivated creatives, you have to let them do things like this.”
The Panerai manufacture produces the majority of the original components that make up the movements of its watches.
Of the 250-plus on-site personnel, nearly a fifth are dedicated to R&D.
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In terms of efficacy, however, the department is all business. R&D is intensely important to Panerai, which has made a name for itself with innovations such as the super-strong Carbotech and BMG materials, and avant-garde novelties like the oil-free Lab-ID that came with a 50-year guarantee. In fact, of the 250-plus on-site personnel, nearly a fifth are dedicated to R&D. The next step in the creation process is prototyping. This early stage is remarkably involving and brutal to the hapless test subjects – sacrificed in the pursuit of the acclaimed Panerai resilience. Prototypes are artificially aged, subject to extreme temperatures, humidity and unrealistically high pressures, often to destruction. “The point is to know when it fails and how,” Cavadini says. “We crush some watches at 3,000m of simulated water pressure,
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A separate room, isolated from the rest of the facility, is where the prototypes are shock-tested for casing and movement durability.
and see – is it the glass that fails or does the caseback deform first? This helps our engineers to properly define the thickness of the sapphire, the caseback, the gaskets and things like that.” A separate room, isolated from the rest of the facility, is where the prototypes are shock-tested for casing and movement durability. One test, meant to simulate a dropped watch, subjects the watch to up to 5,000g, a force approaching that of a 100km/ hr car crash. “This is the worst-case scenario,” says Cavadini after one such demonstration. “And as you can see, the small seconds continues to run. The movement has been disturbed for sure and we would recommend a complete service, but at least you won’t miss your train.” The production floor is indistinguishable from that of a high-tech engineering facility, with 800 sq m dedicated to sophisticated milling and
Panerai’s technical experts can transform the raw materials into bridges, plates and other components.
finishing machines, precise to tolerances measured in 1/1,000th of a millimetre. These can operate for up to 22 hours a day and are some of the most advanced in the industry. “The industry is evolving very quickly. We always want to be up to date,” Cavadini says. “We would like to constantly be improving quality and performance. This is in our DNA.” This is also how Panerai attracts talent. Over a four-year period, Cavadini managed to bring in 120 new employees with zero spending on recruitment outreach. “People fight to come here and it’s because of these high-performing instruments,” he explains.
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The assembly section is where the watchmaking proper begins, but the high-tech practices do not let up. The movements are embedded with RFID chips (at least, their holders are) which allow the teams of watchmakers that assemble them to keep close track of each stage. This allows them to troubleshoot down to the most minute detail. If something is wrong with a particular component, that component’s origin can be traced down to the batch. “This is very important, because if you want to improve the quality of your product you have to measure data,” Cavadini explains.
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Absolute precision is required to ensure that the movement functions with the maximum consistency over a long period of time.
Robb Report
After being assembled into their cases, the watches are subjected to final checks before being shipped. Performance numbers, such as accuracy, amplitude and power reserve, are recorded and published in a booklet that accompanies the watch. “As far as I know, we are the only brand that does this,” Cavadini says. Every watch is also subject to water testing; here, Panerai makes it a point to over-test by 25 per cent on the official depth rating of each watch. The most skilled and experienced watchmakers
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Machines are programmed to carry out works of the highest complexity, with production cycles which may be unusually long in order to achieve the complicated geometry of the components perfectly.
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are found in the high-end watchmaking workshop. Of the 60 or so watchmakers at Panerai, there are only five or six to be found here. Here, the traditions of horology continue to rule as the most complicated and demanding timepieces are still assembled and finished by a single master watchmaker. The sophisticated procedures, high-tech milling machines and the trappings of modern engineering fade into the background, to be replaced by the soft chiming of a minute repeater that took 400 hours to be assembled by a single pair of steady hands – much like it would have been 100 years ago. www.panerai.com
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Sapphire Spectrum Hublot ventures further into allsapphire cases with funky blue and yellow shades. By Wei-Yu Wang
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ublot is no stranger to exotic materials and is well-known for innovation in this regard. This includes sapphire, which is the transparent and extremely scratch-resistant substance universally used for watch crystals. It is a much more difficult prospect to machine sapphire to create the larger and more complex shapes of watch cases, but the results are compelling: lightweight, hardy and providing an unparalleled view of the mechanical interior. Since 2016, Hublot has had allsapphire watch cases in its line-up, including different colours such as smoked black, red and blue. This year, the brand is introducing an eye-catching new colour in the tonneaushaped Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire (S$137,900, limited to 100 pieces). Yellow is an uncommon hue in watchmaking; it is implemented here in a playful, pastellike shade. It houses a self-winding chronograph movement, with pushers and skeleton dial in a contrasting black. At
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42mm across, it is somewhat conservatively sized for a Spirt of Big Bang, but still chunky and broad-shouldered – though the transparency somewhat lightens its wrist presence. Also launched was the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Blue Sapphire (S$227,500, 30 pieces). The blue comes across as icy and serene, and is a fresh take on a timepiece that manages to be outrageous and stately at once. The transparency makes the hand-wound movement all the more involving, with the mainspring visibly tensioning as the user twists the crown. It is a sizable piece at 45mm in diameter, but the use of sapphire and the openwork design make it surprisingly light. www.hublot.com
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Cosmic Elegance
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The Piaget Altiplano returns in typical understated style, with a twist that may have come from the heavens. By Wei-Yu Wang
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he Altiplano col lec t ion has always e x pres s e d the core values of Piaget. This year’s line-up, revealed at the recent Salon International de Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, is no exception: supremely refined, pure in its simplicity and very Piaget. “This year’s collection is really paying tribute to the brand’s DNA,” says Quentin Herbert, head of watch marketing at Piaget. The new timepieces are dress watches of a classical nature: roundcased in 18-carat pink gold, with not even numerals or a second hand to complicate things – though there is the indulgence of a date window at three o’clock. They measure 40mm across and are ultrathin with the self-winding calibre 1203P measuring just three millimetres
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This and facing pages: Piaget’s trio of new Altiplano models are shining examples of the brand’s movement-making prowess.
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thick. “We were born in ultra-thin,” says Herbert. “Ultra-thin enables us to have more room for creativity.” This time, the creativity is found with the choice of dial material, which is meteorite. This makes for a dial that is at once understated and yet fascinating under closer inspection, with a distinctive pattern of lines that is unique to each piece. “It’s a really complex aesthetic,” Herbert describes. “From far away, you see the usual codes of the Altiplano: the thinness, the slim bezel, the essential
The gold dial version of the Altiplano is limited to just 50 pieces.
“Meteorite perfectly matches the understated look of the watch.” lines, and when you come closer you can see the details of the movement and of the meteorite. Meteorite perfectly matches the understated look of the watch.” The material is also strong enough that the dial can be worked without the need for a supporting baseplate, which reduces the thickness that little bit extra, but Herbert points out that this was an unintended benefit. “The starting point is always the artistic intention,” he says. “Our craftsmen are at the service of the aesthetic first.” Ultra-thin for Piaget is in the pursuit of the desired look and not a technical achievement for the sake of it. A galvanic colouring treatment allows three dial choices: grey (S$40,000, limited to 300 pieces), gold (S$41,500, 50 pieces) and blue (S$53,000 with a diamond-set bezel, 300 pieces) – all the epitome of timeless, stylish elegance. int.piaget.com
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BURO. LARGE
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11/02/2019 19:58 3/13/19 10:27
Wheels
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Robb Report
One perfect year Rolls-Royce CEO, Torsten Müller-Ötvös, discusses the marque’s record year in 2018 and what lies ahead. By Daryl Lee
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Photos: Benedict Campbell
T Torsten MüllerÖtvös, CEO of Rolls-Royce, credits launches like the Wraith coupe (right) for the marque’s growing appeal amongst the younger generation.
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he first thing you will notice about a Rolls-Royce is how perfect everything is. The seemingly infinite depths of its paintwork, the impossible softness of its upholstery (which can be ordered in any material or colour you can dream up) and how even the tiniest details are lavished with so much attention. So it’s perhaps only fitting that its timing, too, is perfect. Despite the looming threat of a Sino-American trade war, rumblings of discontent (starts with a B) on the home front and a possible economic slowdown, Torsten Müller-Ötvös, CEO of the British marque, isn’t all too concerned. The ultra-luxury carmaker sold 4,107 cars last year, the most in its 115-year history, and according to Müller-Ötvös, it is expected to do well again this year, and possibly mark another record sale year.
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The reasons for that are the launch of its flagship product, the Phantom limousine, a year or so ago, and more importantly, its Cullinan SUV, which will be seeing its first full year of sales. “We’ve seen unbelievable demand for the car and our order books for it are super strong. We are sold out for Cullinan through the fourth quarter of this year,” says Müller-Ötvös. That said, Müller-Ötvös maintains that Rolls-Royce is not a brand that’s immune to broader economic trends. “We are not recession-proof. We are very much dependant on consumer sentiment. And consumer sentiment hinges on what the broader economic climate is. But we are a very lean company
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103EX concept car, one that perfectly captures what the brand will look like in the future, says Müller-Ötvös. The car is electric, driverless and because of the latter, has a cabin that resembles a lounge. Well, even more so than the “living spaces” currently on any of its products. Müller-Ötvös also says that one of the pillars encapsulated by the 103EX is its coachbuilt nature. This immediately got us thinking about whether we would be seeing more cars like the Sweptail one-off that was unveiled a couple of years ago. It’s difficult to overstate the importance of the Sweptail – which was based on a lastgeneration Phantom Coupe – as it’s the modern revival of Rolls-Royce’s proud
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so cost- and structure-wise, we are not in danger if we lose a substantial amount of sales volume. We had years that weren’t as good as some, but we were still profitable in those years.” He also sees growth potential in China over the next decade or so, a market he still regards as having “so much potential”. Even in traditional markets such as North America, there are still opportunities to be tapped on, with the demographic of buyers there getting younger. Since he took over the reins in 2010, he’s seen the average age of Rolls-Royce’s owners plummet from 56 to 43. MüllerÖtvös credits the launches of the Wraith coupe, Dawn convertible and its Black Badge variants for attracting a younger clientele and kick-starting this trend. But perhaps part of the reason for his optimism is how Rolls-Royce seems have things sorted for the foreseeable, and indeed, far-flung future. In the next 50 years, we’ll probably have a roadgoing version of Rolls-Royce’s
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The Sweptail is a one-off car with a unique body made for one very special customer. tradition of coachbuilding, a process of making custom-bodied cars. Where the Sweptail differs from Rolls-Royce’s other customisation efforts is that it’s a one-off car with a unique body made for one very special customer. It’s far deeper and broader in scope than the trim and upholstery customisations that the carmaker’s Bespoke division regularly undertakes. But when asked about whether or not Rolls-Royce is intending to expand on what is effectively the ultimate expression of its Bespoke customisation division, he could only say the carmaker is “investigating” the possibility. Though it’s not that there’s a lack of willingness, either on Rolls-Royce’s part or on the part of potential buyers. In fact, after the Sweptail was revealed, there has been no shortage of enquiries. “There is plenty of customer demand and we’re currently looking into how we can cater to that demand,” says Müller-Ötvös.
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Clockwise from above, far left: Dawn Aero Cowling; Cullinan’s Viewing Suite; Phantom Whispered Muse; the bespoke Wraith Luminary Collection.
And it’s catering to that demand that might be the trickiest bit about creating such extreme examples of customisation. “It’s extremely challenging from a technical perspective and not easy to do. That’s not so much down to us, but due to homologation requirements and meeting government regulations. This is so delicate and expensive, so it takes years.” While Müller-Ötvös is positive, but deliciously vague, on the prospect of another Sweptail, there is one thing that he’s unequivocal about, and that would be regarding whether there would be a more accessible (for a given value of accessible) companion to the Cullinan, in a similar relationship to the Ghost and Phantom. “No, I don’t see that. RollsRoyce is all about a certain presence and size. The reason why Cullinan is so successful is because it’s exactly what our customers want. They asked us to make a car with enough space and flexible enough (for their needs), so a smaller Cullinan is not in the works.” And there probably is no need for one, anyway. After all, the Cullinan, like pretty much everything about RollsRoyce, is perfect as it is, though we suspect if the marque did a Cullinan Junior, it’ll probably be perfect as well. www.rollsroycemotorcars.com
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X4 to the fore The second outing for BMW’s mid-priced, mid-sized SUV-coupe serves up sportiness as expected... for better or for worse. By Daryl Lee
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t’s almost too easy to dislike an SUV-coupe on principle. After all, the breed is counterintuitive to reasons for an SUV’s existence – you get less rear seat headroom, less boot space and visibility is poorer. Add to that how much more of a premium you’re paying for one. In the case of the X4, taller passengers in the back seats are bound to feel a bit claustrophobic, a consequence of the
Photos: Fabian Kircbauer
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dramatic downward slope of its roofline past the B-pillar. It’s not terrible by any stretch of the imagination, but against its mechanically identical (mostly) twin, the difference is palpable, a fact exacerbated by the smaller windows. Though some will say that lends the car a cosier feel. Oh well, tomayto tomahto. At any rate, what’s less arguable is its boot space. The luggage compartment in the X4 can store 525 litres of cargo, versus the 550 litres on offer in the X3. The culprit here again is the sloping roofline. Again, this isn’t a deal-breaker since 500 litres for a mid-sized SUV is still pretty decent and will only cause problems if you’re transporting really bulky items, such as the kitchen sink, for example. As for poorer visibility, you can’t argue too much about that one too as it’s been a hallmark of BMW’s SUV-coupes, or any SUV-coupe in general, since this automotive archetype made its debut with the X6 in 2008. The upward kick of the car’s tail and the need to give it that racy silhouette mean the rear window might as well be a vestigial feature. Well, I jest, but let’s just say that you’ll be relying on the X4’s reverse camera more than the rearview mirror when parking.
The X4 features an athletic exterior with a distinctive coupe shape.
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And there’s its price. At today’s prices, you’re looking at paying around S$20,000 more than the X3. Which is not an insignificant amount of money since 20 big ones will go a long, long way in optional extras, or it’ll get you two-thirds of the way towards a new COE. But, if all the above points are concerns for you, then there’s a fairly good chance you’re not the sort of person BMW wants to target with the X4 anyway. It’s a similar story for its larger sibling, the X6. So what exactly do you get for the extra S$20,000? Well, not extra equipment over the X3, that’s for sure. In all fairness though, you couldn’t really ask for more kit. A powered tailgate, adaptive LED lights, touchscreen infotainment system, 360-degree cameras and a wireless charging pad for your phone are standard items. What you are getting is sleeker styling – though that point could be subjective. The new X4 is less gawky and bulbous than the car it replaced and its tail end even has some cheeky notchback styling. It still won’t be the prettiest thing to some, but at least it’s not offensive to look at. So, better looking than the somewhat stodgy X3. That’s about it. Actually, I tell a lie. With the X4, you’re getting a car that handles better, which is no mean feat since the X3 handles like an oversized hot hatchback than a ponderous leviathan of an SUV.
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A powered tailgate, adaptive LED lights, touchscreen infotainment system, 360-degree cameras and a wireless charging pad for your phone are standard items. Specifications ENGINE 1,998cc, 16 valves, inline-four, turbocharged POWER 252hp at 5,200-6,500rpm TORQUE 350Nm at 1,450-4,800rpm 0-100KM/HR 6.3 seconds TOP SPEED 240km/hr TRANSMISSION Eight-speed automatic
FUEL CONSUMPTION 7.8 litres/100km
VES BAND (S$10,000 surcharge) PRICE S$269,888 (including COE, excluding options)
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Photos: Fabian Kircbauer
quite seems to settle, unless the road is glassy smooth. Going through larger bumps and the jostle, while not terrible, is bad enough that it can become really grating after a while. But as with the X4’s compromised practicality and price premium over the X3, if its worse ride quality are things that bother you, then perhaps you probably would have never considered the car in the first place. The reason for that being that the X4 isn’t so much an alternatively styled SUV as a true coupe.
BMW’s new super-stiff CLAR modular underpinnings can take some of the credit here. It’s stiffer and lighter than the one used on the preceding model, which means the X4 can finally claim to be the Sports Activity Coupe it promised to be when the first-generation car made its debut in 2014. As can its lower roofline, which means a lower centre of gravity. It corners flatter and with more incisiveness than the X3. So much so that you almost don’t feel its 1,621mm height, which is 50mm lower than the X3. Unfortunately, it also doesn’t ride quite as well as the X3 does. There’s constant patter through the suspension and it never
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The X4 boasts the latest BMW driving technology, from the navigation system to Apple CarPlay integration.
You know, those things that generally seat two (and maybe an additional pair of very small people), have laughable luggage space and ride low to the ground. And if you see the X4 through that lens, then it starts to make a lot of sense. It’s a coupe that doesn’t require too many compromises over a ‘regular’ SUV, and in that light, maybe even the S$20,000 more that BMW wants for one will seem like a reasonable amount. www.bmw.com.sg
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Photos: Mike Maez / Gooding & Co
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THE LOST GENeRATION Sleek and stylish, the cream of Italy’s post-war car designs are making a welcome return. By Robert Ross
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talian cars are like pasta. Everyone knows the popular shapes of spaghetti and fettuccine, yet there are more than 350 varieties that reward the curious looking for less common fare. Similarly, in addition to high-profile sports cars from Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati, there are many dozens of Italian marques and coachbuilders that arose between the birth of the automobile and today that remain largely unknown. Most are long defunct; like shooting stars, they lit the landscape with a flash and disappeared. Others started off with fanfare and faded away. A few coachbuilders, like Bertone and Pininfarina, have been recently relaunched. All have stamped a legacy into automotive design that we can see now in the current high-profile Italian marques. For industrious automotive artisans and engineers, no time or place was as ripe with opportunity as Italy in the 1950s. Many cars from the era survived thanks to those who squirrelled them away in barns or families who passed down a grandfather’s GT to younger generations. Until recently, they were just old cars. Now, whether they have matching numbers – their original chassis and engines – or not, they are highly coveted. A Ferrari 250 GTO, made from 1962 to 1964 and today worth between US$40 million and US$80 million, was purchased in 1977 by
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Robb Report
Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason for about US$60,000). Carroll Shelby couldn’t give his race-worn Shelby Daytona coupes away for US$7,000 each when they became uncompetitive by 1967. Today, any of those original six is worth up to US$30 million. Italian automotive history isn’t complete without a look at the carrozzerie, the coachbuilders who designed and built the bodies that breathed soul into every machine. Usually, a carrozzeria would manufacture complete bodies, delivering them to the carmaker for final assembly at the factory. Most of the carrozzerie no longer operate independently or have gone belly-up. Which currently undervalued Italian car is poised to break into the big leagues is a complicated question. But one thing is certain: the quick, the beautiful and the rare will always have admirers.
Photos: Mike Maez / Gooding & Co
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1952 Siata 208 CS Corsa Spider by Bertone
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lthough Siata (Società Italiana Auto Trasformazioni Accessori) is one of the least-known Italian automakers, its contribution to motorsports during the 1950s was significant. Amateur race-car driver Giorgio Ambrosini established the Turinese company in 1926 to make performance accessories; Siata didn’t build its first car until 1948. Siata’s most interesting model, the 208S, was made from 1953 to 1955 and used the same engine that powered the Fiat 8V. That 2.0-litre alloy V8 engine earned a reputation as feisty but fragile. Many failed early on and were swapped out, which explains the number of Siatas powered by American small-block V8s. The company ran on fumes through the 1960s and was out of business by 1975. Only 35 of the lightweight 208 Spiders were made, with bodies designed by Giovanni Michelotti and fabricated by Rocco Motto.
That 2.0-litre alloy V8 engine earned a reputation as feisty but fragile. The unique 208 CS Corsa Spider pictured here is a one-off styled and built by Bertone, whose owner, Nuccio Bertone, raced it in the early 1950s. The muscular shape with outboard mudguards recalls a competition car from an earlier era.
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1947 Cisitalia
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isitalia (Compagnia Industriale Sportiva Italia) was a Turinese race-car builder established by the wealthy industrialist Piero Dusio in 1946, but it folded in 1949 trying to put its 202 GT into series production. That diminutive berlinetta (‘little saloon’ in Italian) could be regarded as the first modern automotive styling exercise. The coupe was designed by Battista ‘Pinin’ Farina, whose carrozzeria Pinin Farina began in 1930, when the 37-year-old opened shop in Turin. Small in stature, his nickname, Pinin, or ‘little’, led him to change his legal surname to Pininfarina in 1961; the firm has been known as Pininfarina ever since. The Pinin Farina shape was the first to blend mudguards with fuselage, creating a harmonious form that was both aerodynamic and aesthetically pleasing. No one had seen such a thing before, and testament to this groundbreaking achievement is the fact that the Museum of Modern Art acquired an example for its permanent collection in 1972 – the first automobile to be deified by a fine-art institution. Like most Italian cars of the era, the Cisitalia 202 GT had a svelte aluminium body wrapped around a tubular chassis. It was powered by a 1,089cc, overhead-
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Vignale is known for creating not just many significant Ferraris, but bodies of other sporting marques as well.
valve, inline-4 – essentially a hopped-up Fiat engine with twin Weber carburettors, propelling the little Cisitalia with 63hp. A convertible followed the coupe. The one shown here was designed by Vignale. Established in 1946, Carrozzeria Vignale is known for creating not just many significant Ferraris, but bodies of other sporting marques as well, including American sportsman Briggs Cunningham’s eponymous Cunningham C-3, a Chryslerpowered Ferrari-fighter from the mid-1950s. Shortly before Alfredo Vignale’s death in 1969, the firm was taken over by Ghia, which continued the Vignale name until 1974.
Photos: Gooding & Co
202 SC Cabriolet by Vignale
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One of only approximately 60 Cisitalia 202 SC Cabriolets produced, this car features coachwork by Vignale and was the subject of a meticulous restoration to its original colours.
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1963 Iso
Grifo A3/L Prototype by Bertone
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ike Germany, Italy after World War II had a decimated economy and a population in need of inexpensive transportation. Refrigerator manufacturer Iso (Isothermos), founded in 1939 and restructured as Iso Autoveicoli in 1953, responded to the opportunity. Under industrialist Renzo Rivolta, Iso produced motorÂcycles, scooters and a tiny bubble car that was also made under licence by BMW as the BMW Isetta. With his fortune made, Rivolta hired Giotto Bizzarrini, the magician behind Ferrari’s 250 GTO; stylist Giorgetto Giugiaro and coachbuilder Bertone to create a luxury GT with performance to rival Ferrari. The Iso Rivolta IR 300, introduced in 1962, was beautiful and practical, using a powerful
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Chevrolet five-litre V8 engine that, with 340hp on tap, could compete with anything made at the time. Iso followed with a racier design called Grifo, produced from 1965 until 1974, when the company folded. The car shown here is the original Iso Grifo: a one-off prototype with unique coachwork, first exhibited at the 1963 Turin Auto Show. The shape was created by a young Giorgetto Giugiaro, whose time with Bertone produced memorable 1960s designs like the Alfa Romeo Giulia GT.
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Photos: Mike Maez / Gooding & Co
Cars from Iso are the most exciting Italian exotics that no one has heard of. The Iso Grifo was a powerhouse with a potent stance, able to outrun the fastest cars of its era.
Bertone began in 1912 in Grugliasco and was guided by Nuccio Bertone after World War II. The company designed prototypes and built bodies for production cars, closing its doors as a family-owned company in 2014. In its heyday, Bertone was a giant, noted for cutting-edge creations. An affiliation with Lamborghini and Maserati cemented its reputation for the avantgarde, thanks to Marcello Gandini’s designs for Lamborghini that included the Marzal show car, Miura, and gamechanging Countach of the 1970s.
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1953 Fiat 8V Supersonic by Ghia
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o discussion of unknown Italian marques would be complete without a deep bow to Fiat, whose engines were the basis for many small manufacturers and carrozzerie, including the long-defunct but influential Ghia. Fiat (Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino) was founded in 1899 by Giovanni Agnelli and made a name in early competition with contraptions like the Beast of Turin, a 28.5-litre, four-cylinder monster built in 1910 to beat the land speed record held by Germany’s Blitzen Benz. Following World War II, Fiat re-emerged with the tiny 500 Topolino, or ‘little mouse’, and gave Italians an option beyond the two-wheeled Vespas and Lambrettas. The founder’s grandson, industrialist
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Gianni Agnelli, ran Fiat from 1963 until he retired as chairman in 1996. The most ambitious Fiat was the 8V – shorthand for Otto Vu – and refers to Fiat’s 1,996cc, overheadvalve, alloy V8 engine that made a whopping 113hp. The power plant for the most exclusive Fiat was initially designed for a luxury sedan that never saw production. But a small run of 114 8Vs was made from 1952 to 1954, most of which were designed by Fiat’s own special body department, as well as coachbuilders Vignale and Zagato. One variant – the 8V Supersonic created by Ghia stylist Giovanni Savonuzzi – showcased jet-age fantasy and the era’s most aerodynamic styling. Ghia was established by Giacinto Ghia in 1915 and was at the height of its fame during Savonuzzi’s tenure in the mid-1950s working with American manufacturers, especially Chrysler designer Virgil Exner.
Robb Report
No Fiat was more evocative of the optimistic 1950s than the 8V Supersonic styled by Ghia. This car is the first of just 15 examples made.
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The 8V Supersonic showcased jet-age fantasy and the era’s most aerodynamic styling.
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1955 Lancia
Photos: Shoots & Giggles / Gooding & Co
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Aurelia B24S Spider America by Pinin Farina
hile the mid-1950s unleashed great automobiles such as Britain’s Jaguar D-Type and Germany’s Mercedes-Benz 300SL, nowhere was the variety greater than in Italy. One of the country’s most beloved brands was Lancia, founded in 1906 by Vincenzo Lancia, the inventor of independent front suspension and a host of other important engineering firsts. Lancias have always been special cars, possessing impressive technical advancements, exceptional build quality and, often, unsurpassed beauty. The Aurelia coupes played a major role in motorsports throughout the 1950s, but the Aurelia B24 was the ultimate combination of engineering and design and was the most desirable road-going Lancia sports car of the time. Just 240 Spiders were made from 1954 to 1955, followed by 521 convertibles from 1956 to 1957. The former is the most collectible, with a simple wraparound windshield and more minimalist appointments. The B24 used the first seriesproduction V6 – Lancia’s 2,451cc overheadvalve engine, producing 125hp. What made the B24 so exquisite was its Pinin Farina body, a perfectly proportioned One of 181 lefthand-drive spiders built, this Lancia B24S is equipped with a rare Nardi competition kit for added performance.
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The Aurelia B24 was the ultimate combination of Lancia engineering and design. beauty representing the pinnacle of the designer’s aesthetic output. Lancia atrophied and was absorbed into the Fiat organisation by 1969, and its last notable cars were the Stratos rally car and 037 racers that carried the Lancia torch into the 1980s. Lancia became a ghost of its former self by the late 2000s and remains a marque in name only.
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1961 Osca
1600 GT Coupe by Carrozzeria Touring
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Osca’s 1600 GT was a race-car manufacturer’s attempt to make a proper Italian GT. The rarest of them is the Touring-bodied version, of which only two were produced.
Flying Star designs for Isotta Fraschini and Alfa Romeo in the 1930s were unmatched for elegance and purity of form. Felice Bianchi Anderloni set up shop in Milan in 1926, patenting his superleggera (lightweight) construction method of wrapping aluminium panels around a framework of delicate steel tubes. Superleggera is widely used today, but was – until Touring closed in 1966 – a proprietary technology licensed to carmakers like Aston Martin for the beautiful DB5. Touring’s design for the tiny Osca 1600 GT reflects a grandeur that is the hallmark of all of Anderloni’s creations.
Carrozzeria Touring was the grande dame of coachbuilders.
Photos: Gooding & Co
sca was a small carmaker in Bologna with a big name (Off icine Specializzate Costruzione Automobili—Fratelli Maserati). The company was started in 1947 by the surviving Maserati brothers, who had sold their eponymous company to the Orsi family a decade earlier. Until closing in 1967, Osca made small but mighty race cars that captured wins in the hotly contested 1,100cc class. In the 1960s, Osca made a limited series of elegant road cars powered by 1,200cc Fiat engines as well as by an engine of its own design. That 1,568cc, DOHC inline-4 developed 123hp and made the 1600 GT a delightful grand tourer. Most of the approximately 130 examples wore bodies by Fissore, Boneschi or Zagato. The most rare were bodied by Carrozzeria Touring and had a futuristic interior with elaborate moulding and fittings. Carrozzeria Touring was the grande dame of coachbuilders, and its excess-free
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1959 Fiat-Abarth
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750 GT by Zagato
n 1949, Carlo Abarth founded Abarth & C after acquiring the liquidated assets of his former employer, Cisitalia. While Abarth was known at the time for making performance accessories for tiny Italian cars, its highly modified and specialbodied Fiat-based race cars brought lustre to the marque, whose logo, in reference to Abarth’s astrological sign, was a scorpion. Fiat bought Abarth in 1971 and the brand lives on only as a badge used to adorn Fiat’s high-performance models. The ‘giant killers’ for which Abarth is known were purposebuilt racers, like this Fiat-Abarth 750 GT. At less than 544kg, the car was ably powered by a 43hp, 747cc Fiat inline-4 engine. Its featherweight Zagato bodywork is key to a performance-toweight ratio that made it highly competitive in its class. Founded by Ugo Zagato in 1919 to build and repair bodies for automobiles and aircraft, the Milanese firm eventually became known for designing and making lightweight bodies for limited-production sports and competition cars. The first to apply sound aerodynamic principles to automobile design, Zagato also expressed the Italian metalworker’s art at its best. Zagato craftsmen hand-formed aluminium panels into discernible shapes by beating them over wooden bucks, with the result that no two cars were exactly alike and making the job of today’s restorers an exercise
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The Fiat-Abarth 750 GT was a popular sight on the track. While records no longer exist, it is estimated that as many as 600 Zagato-bodied examples were produced.
Zagato expressed the Italian metalworker’s art at its best. in reverse engineering. A notable Zagato design signature is the famous double-bubble roof, a solution to finding headroom for taller drivers while reducing the aerodynamic drag resulting from a higher roofline. Upon his father’s death in 1968, Elio Zagato took over the firm, running it until his own passing in 2009. His son Andrea still runs Zagato today, making the carrozzeria the longest-lived independent coachbuilder in the world.
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Virgin Voyage Virgin Galactic’s SpaceShipTwo flew astronauts to space and back. Are you ready to sign up?
By Mary Grady
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n February, Virgin Galactic’s SpaceShipTwo (christened VSS Unity) successfully completed its fifth test flight and second trip into space. After many setbacks, the company in December successfully flew VSS Unity into space for the first time, reaching an altitude of 51.4 miles – past the border between Earth’s atmosphere and space, which NASA defines as 50 miles high. The flight marked a milestone in Virgin Galactic’s efforts to take paying passengers on space flights
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to altitudes where they will experience weightlessness, see the curvature of Earth and stare at a pitch-black sky full of stars. A crowd that included the firm’s founder Richard Branson, a number of its employees and the press watched from the company’s base in Mojave, California, as the spaceship, attached to mother ship Eve, launched from the runway. The two ships flew together to 40,000 feet, whereupon SpaceShipTwo was released. The crew then activated the rocket engine for 60 seconds, propelling the ship to a speed of Mach 2.9 (about 3,540km/ hr) and powering its climb beyond the atmosphere. Shortly after passing the 50-mile mark, the crew turned the spacecraft back to Mojave and glided it down to the runway. The mission’s two pilots, Mark ‘Forger’ Stucky and Frederick ‘CJ’ Sturckow, were awarded Federal Aviation Administration Commercial Astronaut Wings at a Washington, DC, ceremony in February. The spaceship carried four space science and technology experiments from NASA’s Flight Opportunities programme, making this Virgin Galactic’s first revenue-generating launch. It was also the first human spaceflight from US soil since the final space shuttle mission in 2011, and the first time that a crewed vehicle built for commercial passenger service has reached space. The fifth test flight, and now second into space, blasted off with three crew members, one of whom was Virgin Galactic’s chief astronaut instructor, Beth Moses, the first woman to travel to space aboard a commercial craft. This mission
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The December flight marks the first time that a crewed vehicle built for commercial passenger service has reached space.
Virgin Galactic’s founder Richard Branson celebrates the company’s out-of-this-world achievement. Facing page: VSS Unity lands in Mojave after its inaugural space mission.
went farther and faster – 55.87 miles, reaching a speed of Mach 3.04. Two more crafts are being built to help meet the anticipated passenger demand. And while all of the US$250,000 seats are filled, those interested in booking a flight can sign up for updates by registering with the company’s website. www.virgingalactic.com
Photos: Virgin
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Capitalising on Snow If Chainid Adhyanasakul has his way, Kiroro in Hokkaido, Japan might be where you will travel to for your next winter getaway. Here, he reveals his plans for the region. By MARK LEAN
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Photo: Yuki Sumiyo
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apan ranks highly on the hit list of the winter ski crowd. Watch a movie, have a meal and in six and a half hours you’ll reach Sapporo’s Otaru airport. This is one of the reasons Chainid Adhyanasakul thinks that nearby Kiroro, a mountain village in Hokkaido, has the potential to become the region’s next Niseko. Or even, perhaps, to surpass it. “Snow is a limited resource on Earth,” says Adhyanasakul, CEO of Bangkokbased Property Perfect. He adds that it’s widely known that Kiroro has one of the highest qualities and largest amounts of natural powder snow in the world. The area also sees one of the longest winter seasons, spanning from late November to early May. Good news for winter sports fanatics who are not ready to put their gear into storage when spring rolls around. To this end, Property Perfect purchased Kiroro Resort in 2012 and is investing 100 billion yen in the destination. The plan? To create an integrated, all-season alpine resort with a selection of exclusive luxury villas, townhomes and apartments centred on the Gateway, Hokkaido’s first premium ski club and centre with ski-in and skiout access to shops, restaurants, services and a kids’ centre.
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By the end of 2019, Property Perfect plans to launch Yu Kiroro, a series of exclusive ski-in ski-out private residences at the base of the mountain. It offers 108 one, two and three-bedroom units as well as a penthouse, all fully furnished luxury private residences that come with a ski valet, a natural indoor-outdoor onsen, a 24-hour concierge, fitness centre and lounge, and all-day dining facilities. The resort also features a Mountain Centre from which guests are assisted with the planning of activities on and off the mountain. Fancy a snow park, a guided snowcat or snowshoeing tours? No problem. During summer months, golf, fishing, hiking and tours of nearby seaside towns can also be organised. “I can confidently see an opportunity for premium development. Kiroro is in an exclusive valley, situated in the heart of Hokkaido, allowing it potential to grow as an international destination, especially in comparison to other countries in Asia,” says Adhyanasakul. “Its location is also a short distance from Sapporo’s Otaru airport and is within an hour’s reach to other well-known towns.” He adds that Kiroro already has solid foundations with a good amount of ski facilities and two hotels with over 400 rooms in total. “From a developing standpoint, this means that we do not need to start from scratch,” he says. The resort encompasses two peaks with 22 groomed runs and lots of ungroomed, off-piste powder and tree skiing opportunities. Nine lifts and a gondola provide easy accessibility. A further gondola / ski lift will open at the end of the year, linking Sheraton Hokkaido Kiroro Resort, Tribute Portfolio Hotel and Yu Kiroro to the ski runs. Adhyanasakul says that, based on
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Beyond the snow, Kiroro shines during the warmer months, when the natural beauty and splendour of the location blooms.
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current customer profiles which include data from frequent customers at Kiroro and condominium buyers mostly from Asia, Kiroro is anticipated to attract a market of high-net-worth individuals similar to those who frequent Niseko. “The differences are in the customers’ preference, whether they prefer Kiroro over Niseko, and whether they seek a more exclusive environment with potential for growth.” Beyond the snow, Kiroro along with the entire Hokkaido region shines during the warmer months, when the natural beauty and splendour of the location blooms. “There is a creek running along the entire resort as well as several waterfalls and even the lake on the mountain is revealed. Also around Kiroro are many lush, green farms and a variety of attractions to enjoy. www.kiroro.co.jp
Photos: Yuta Kihara, Ikuya Sasaki
This and facing pages: with two five-star hotels and luxury ski-in ski out private residences, Kiroro is an ideal getaway vacation for families, couples and visitors of all ages.
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By the Waterfront The highly anticipated Chao Phraya Estate is a step up on the real estate scene in a locale that’s soon to be one of Bangkok’s most thriving. By MARK LEAN
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iver traffic is getting busier and luxury is fast flowing to the Chao Phraya River. The River of King’s recent renaissance includes new ultra luxury retail and hotel developments. The highlight of which is Chao Phraya Estate, a 5.7-hectare development composed of the 299-room Four Seasons Hotel, the 100-room Capella Hotel and the 73-storey Four Seasons Private Residences. In anticipation of the development’s completion by the third quarter of 2019, chief executive of Country Group Developent, Ben Taechaubol speaks to Robb Report Thailand about the development and the mystique of the Chao Phraya River, and how it has – and continues to – captivate the imagination of both locals and people from around the world.
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“In the world of hotel-branded residences, it is not uncommon to find both unrivalled location and quality. Iconic properties, however, hold a special place because it is almost impossible for them to be replicated.”
With numerous new developments, the Chao Phraya River as a location is experiencing a renaissance of sorts. How do you envision the area transforming in years to come? The Chao Phraya River has always been the city’s lifeblood and cultural soul. The new gleaming developments juxtaposed against the very source of the city’s rich culture and history is representative of all that makes Bangkok so unique. The area will continue to transform, as it always has, a charming tapestry of old and new. The Chao Phraya Estate is a first for Bangkok in many respects. What were the elements that encouraged you to develop in this location? It started with an incredible site of unprecedented size and scale for such a location, the Bangkok side of the Chao Phraya River. From there it was about clarity of vision in what we sought to achieve and the integrity to see it through. Not fully maximising the available density as well as not introducing too many components were key in ensuring the value is enhanced for owners and residents.
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This and facing pages: Four Seasons is combining its legendary service and hotel-inspired amenities to enhance the daily life of guests and residents at Chao Phraya Estate.
As an investment proposition, what are the aspects and advantages that a prospective buyer would take into account? In the world of hotel-branded residences, it is not uncommon to find both unrivalled location and quality. Iconic properties, however, hold a special place because it is almost impossible for them to be replicated. Such rarity is what will prove to be a good investment.
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The trend towards ultra-high net worth individuals purchasing hotel-branded residences around the world is becoming more widespread. In what ways does the Four Seasons Private Residences speak and appeal to these individuals? Hotel-branded residences are appealing because of the service-rich lifestyle ultra high-net-worth individuals have come to appreciate. We sought to provide ‘waterfront living at its finest’, which in our interpretation was the rare opportunity to bring together world-renowned Thai hospitality and legendary Four Seasons service in this amazing location. What has been the feedback you have received so far? The feedback has been very positive. Our clients acknowledge that it’s very rare that all the stars align for such a project to be possible. We are incredibly excited to introduce such an offering to Bangkok. chaophrayaestate.com
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TIME AND PLACE
Those nostalgic for the past will find Siem Reap’s Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor a place to come home to. By Mark Lean
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Jacqueline Kennedy found Grand Hotel d’Angkor a restorative sanctuary in which to take stock.
Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor provides a relaxing retreat from the temples and the bustling town of Siem Reap.
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Photo: John McDermott
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ravel can be a forward-looking as well as a retrospective exercise. Some people explore ancient ruins to gain a better sense of what the future could hold. In 1967, when she visited Siem Reap and Angkor Wat as a guest of King Norodom Sihanouk, Jacqueline Kennedy found Grand Hotel d’Angkor a restorative sanctuary in which to take stock. The hotel, with origins dating back to 1932, was created in the opulent French colonial style of that era. Its top-to-bottom art deco elegance and Chinese decorative features were matched by Alfred Messner’s
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innovative interpretations of what was then considered experiential luxury travel. As ‘director of the Grand Hotel’, he captivated a generation of global explorers arriving on steamships with activities like game-hunting on the outskirts of Siem Reap and curated royal-sanctioned dance performances. Messner’s marketing deftness also featured celebrations at Angkor Wat with torch-lit dances – a precursor to present-day events at the heritage site. These days, a Warhol-inspired portrait of Kennedy by Siem Reap-based Belgian artist Christian Develter decorates a meeting room beside the hotel lobby. The pop art reference is a poignant contrast to subsequent decades that saw the hotel shutter, the unrest of the
Messner’s marketing deftness also featured celebrations at Angkor Wat with torch-lit dances – a precursor to present-day events at the heritage site.
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1970s and the 1980s, through to 1997, when it reopened as Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor. Heritage elements, too, are peppered throughout the property. The lobby’s centrepiece is the 1932 elevator with original timber finishing and steel door and grilles along with an environment that’s as much about the old world as it is about sincerely recreating a sense of time and place. On the cards this year: a total refurbishment of the hotel including its luxurious 119 rooms. What won’t change? The stunning 35m pool in a setting that takes a leaf from Angkor’s royal bathing pools of centuries past. Choose a spot in the sun or by the shade to sip the hotel’s signature pour, Airavata, a sweet and tangy tropical blend of rum, coconut, passion fruit, lime juice, creeme de banana and pineapple. www.raffles.com/siem-reap
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Clockwise from centre: the outdoor pool; Cabana Suite; two-bedroom villa; Landmark Room.
Photos: John W McDermott
Heritage elements are peppered throughout the property.
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CITY GLAMOUR As one of London’s most desired addresses, the Four Seasons Hotel at Ten Trinity Square unveils sublime and intimate accommodation for long-staying guests. By Mark Lean
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here is a lot to like about the recently launched Four Seasons Residences at Ten Trinity Square. It’s a 30-second walk from the Tower of London and the River Thames flows gently nearby. A part of the Four Seasons Hotel Ten Trinity, these exclusive abodes are understated and stylish. As the former headquarters of the Port of London Authority, which opened in 1922, the Grade II-listed structure, though restored, still oozes cruise liner classiness. An imposing statue of a 1920s Father Thames greets visitors at the hotel’s entrance. The residences here (ranging from 164sqm to 447sqm) are composed of 10 apartments, designed by the UK’s biggest and brightest stars. These include Martin Kemp Design, Linley and Richmond International, all of whom have channelled interiors that have equal parts restraint and gravitas.
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Located between the third and seventh floors, the residences have open-plan living areas, dining rooms and fully equipped kitchens. The largest unit has four bedrooms. Each unit has a private terrace with views of the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. Residents also have access to the exclusive 10 Trinity Square Private Club. Amenities include lounges, restaurants, a Chateau Latour Discovery Room, a bar, a cigar sampling lounge and a series of private rooms. Then there is the internationally acclaimed Rotunda Bar and Lounge that attracts a buzzy evening crowd who come for the cocktails and the restored domed ceiling detailing. Chinese-Japanese restaurant Mei Ume serves MSG-free cuisine (probably a first for London) and Asian-inspired tipples using sake and Chinese rice wine – a fitting homage to an establishment that marries to harmonious effect, the best of East Asia. www.fourseasons.com/tentrinity
Photo: Julian Abrams
As the former headquarters of the Port of London Authority, which opened in 1922, the Grade II-listed structure, though restored, still oozes cruise liner classiness. An imposing statue of a 1920s Father Thames greets visitors at the hotel’s entrance.
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The spacious and well-appointed residences will offer the comfort and convenience of a hotel, with additional benefits such as the privacy of a dedicated entrance.
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Bangkok Blossom The Thai capital gets its very own Waldorf Astoria.
By MARK LEAN
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Photo by Masano Kawana
See the city from a refreshing vantage in the outdoor infinity pool.
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Across Southeast Asia, there seems to be a hotel boom occurring. Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, the brand’s first foray into the region, brings a tradition of matchless hospitality to a city where five-star hotels abound. With its 171 rooms, some of which overlook the vast green expanse of Royal Bangkok Sports Club, the hotel is great for business or pleasure.
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s Daniel Welk, vice-president, luxury and lifestyle, Asia-Pacific for Hilton, puts it: “We offer exclusive, exceptional experiences in unique and unforgettable destinations that ultimately become unforgettable memories.” This is much the case as you step into the light-filled Andre Fu-designed lobby, shaped in undulating curves said to resemble the magnolia bloom. The hotel channels Fu’s distinctive minimalist persona: understated yet impossible to ignore. Shades of cream, beige and white dominate in the rooms, all of which are gorgeous exercises in grace and restraint. A similar vibe extends to the relaxing ambience at Peacock Valley, a choice spot for afternoon tea and friendly banter. Then, there is the architectural marvel of a swimming pool that looks in equal measures like a Star Trek set and a Las Vegas stage. On the same level is the spa, where guests may take time out to enjoy a rebalancing massage, a treatment guaranteed to reset shoulder kinks from a 12-hour flight.
Photos by Masano Kawana
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Travel Over at the Front Room, chef de cuisine Fae Rungthiwa Chummongkhon innovates with her brand of Nordic-influenced Thai cuisine. She melds experience at Michelin-starred restaurants like Frederikshoj in Denmark and La Belle Epoque in Germany with her Thai heritage. The result: original dishes such as Baking Beetroot comprising beetroot, pickled papaya and caviar, as well as a delightful lemongrassnuanced chicken served with black rice puree. Post-dinner, cap the evening at the top level Champagne bar, a glamorous vantage point from which to gaze at the City of Angels’ sparkling night form. For drinks, ask the bartender to surprise you – he’s good at that. www.waldorfastoria.com
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Whether it’s work or wanderlust that brings you to Thailand, this luxury hotel has comforts and conveniences for all discerning travellers.
Top right photo by Sansith Koraviyotin
Over at the Front Room, chef de cuisine Fae Rungthiwa Chummongkhon innovates with her brand of Nordicinfluenced Thai cuisine.
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NATURE’S EMBRACE The Datai in Langkawi returns following a year-long refurbishment. By K enneth Tan
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When The Datai in Langkawi closed in 2017 for refurbishment, expectations ran high for its long-awaited reopening. This sort of breathless anticipation was merited by The Datai’s lofty standing among resorts across the globe, having ranked among the world’s top five resorts when it opened in 1993 and achieving the unprecedented honour for being the recipient of two Aga Khan Awards (in 2001) for architecture and interior design.
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Above: one-bedroom Beach Villa. Left and below: Rainforest Villa. Facing page: Rainforest Pool Villa.
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n order to recall that same magic of this near-mythical resort, The Datai Langkawi called upon the talents of its originator, Didier Lefort of the Paris-based design studio DL2A. “When we first started thinking about this resort some 30 years ago, we (the late architect Kerry Hill and Lefort) conceived of a philosophy which is integrated with nature and a reflection of Malaysian culture,” Lefort remembers. True to form, that Datai DNA has endured and been redefined with Lefort striving to rekindle all the high points of modernity, simplicity and luxury among nature. He added colours and energy to corridors and lights, with modernday lighting technology enabling him to introduce greater precision and creativity – not to mention savings in energy – to the resort. Palao timber, which forms some of the columns and roofing, was sanded down to obtain a brighter burnish, while over 90 per cent of the furniture was replaced, recalling the colours of nature, notably that of Langkawi’s myriad butterflies, onto the textiles and fabrics. The efforts invested in the resort also extended to an overhaul of the wiring, plumbing and roofing. It took 20 mock-ups to get the bathtubs designed exactly right and a total of 1,100 drawings before commencing with the renovation. “What was tricky in the beginning was that we maintained the language of the space,” Lefort muses. “It’s easy when designing from nothing but, in our case, so many important people have visited and stayed at The Datai, and we didn’t want to destroy any of what they recognise and love.” Arnaud Girodon, The Datai Langkawi’s general manager who has been with the resort for the last five years, concurs, saying that at the very start, it was clear that only
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Lefort had the natural authority to introduce the 21st-century design language to the resort, evolving his earlier ideas into a more contemporary ideal. He immediately reached out to his Malaysian counterpart Jay Yeunh whom he had worked with all those years ago, and the duo quickly formulated ideas which would further the concepts of nature and Malaysian culture which they had postulated nearly three decades ago. What transpires most clearly in the present day is that the resort of 121 rooms, suites and villas still retains its sensitivity to all manner of life, from the fauna to the flora. “We want to protect this and it is important that we show this respect for nature and this area’s biodiversity,” Girodon says. “To cut a tree would mean you had to pay tens of thousands to the government and we were extremely careful then and now in our development of the site and its facilities,” Lefort remembers. Here at Teluk Datai, a stone’s throw from where the oldest
What transpires most clearly in the present day is that the resort of 121 rooms, suites and villas still retains its sensitivity to all manner of life, from the fauna to the flora.
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At the spa, two famous global personalities are now inextricably linked to the spa menu.
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rock formation in Malaysia is found (Cambrian, 550 million years ago), forest authorities have tagged all of the key trees and have instituted a system in which financial penalties are incurred for every tree brought down, with remedial action also required to replant trees and regenerate the forest. As such, the most irresistible of The Datai’s charms is its sense of place, deep within the ancient rainforest teeming with wildlife and centuries-old trees. From flying squirrels and dusky leaf monkeys, to great hornbills and sea eagles, the entire resort is a window into the natural world. The scope of the resort’s refresh
Ghani Hussain worked with The Datai to introduce herbal healing teas at the resort. A stated, and rather lofty aim of The Datai, is to be zero waste within the year, with a phenomenal level of detail in its execution such as replacing plastic cotton buds with bamboo ones. In the same way that The Datai has been meticulous about protecting its natural heritage, so too did it retain its fabled members of staff, many of whom have spent over a decade at the resort. An overwhelming majority of those who were kept on were sent for hospitality training and certification programmes during the renovation’s duration. At the spa, two famous global personalities are now inextricably linked to the spa menu. Bastien Gonzalez, known for his roster of A-list Hollywood celebrities,
includes the establishment of a permaculture garden where ingredients are harvested for use in daily menus. At the spa, artisanal essential oils incorporate healing herbs from the rainforest, and ancestral therapies. The herbalist consultant Dr Abdul
members of royalty and sports personalities, is present for the first time through his Pedi:Mani:Cure Studios, a first in Malaysia. Meanwhile the pioneering Phyto 5 treatment – which proposes therapies tailored to the personality and moods of the client – is a mainstay of the facial treatments, utilising pure spring water from pristine Swiss regions in the process.
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Malay adornment and woodwork patterns add to the sense of Malaysiana.
The Beach Club and Beach Bar (top) and The Dining Room.
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Inside the rooms, the cultural melting pot which is Malaysia may be clearly discerned from the enigmatic details; bed bases are adapted from Chinese bed columns, while red and beige sandstone hint at the Indian origins of the material. Malay adornment and woodwork patterns add to the sense of Malaysiana. Canopy rooms – located close to the adult-only pool – range from 63 sq m up to 378 sq m for The Datai Suite, while the Rainforest Villas encompass 123 sq m of bathroom, bedroom and living facilities including a daybed on the outer terrace. With the refurbishment, a few more pool villas have been added to the mix. The Beach Villas are available in single- and doublebedroom configurations with a separate living space, private pool and immediate access to the beach – voted top 10 beaches around the world by National Geographic. At the top of the pile is the new fivebedroom Datai Estate, sprawled across 3,500 sq m with an incredible pool design, terraces for hosting dinner under the stars and an accompanying in-villa chef and butler. Outside of these luxurious accommodation options, the whole of Langkawi opens up in ways you never knew. A dreamy, meandering walk down the butterfly garden, comprising many nectar and caterpillar host plants, reveals all manner of Lepidoptera. Langkawi has the one of the greatest concentrations with 530 species, outnumbering that of the entire Australian continent (450) and the UK (65). At the newly built Nature Centre designed to look like a tribal bamboo longhouse, resident naturalist Irshad Mobarak and his team conduct nature rambles from the break of dawn to dusk, with a particular highlight being the new 20m-high canopy walk showcasing the tremendous beauty of the surrounding forest.
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The awardwinning Pavilion restaurant serves traditional Thai cuisine nightly in an open-air setting.
For dining, guests are spoilt for choice with a plethora of options ranging from Gulai House, which serves some of the most tender and flavourful lamb and beef rendang, to the Lobby Lounge for an appreciation of the tranquil Andaman Sea over snacks and cocktails. The Dining Room now offers fine dining in the evenings, while The Pavilion masterfully recreates authentic dishes such as Tom Kha Gai (a creamy chicken coconut
of Michel and Sebastian Bras of Le Suquet in France and also of Toya in Hokkaido, Japan. The younger Bras made waves last year when he decided, and was granted the right, to withdraw from the Michelin guide, despite the restaurant having held a three-star rating for the past 18 years. Over a dinner crafted by the duo, the Bras classic of a gargouillou of young vegetables, herbs and sprouted seeds was artfully paired with the complex fruit of a 2016 Tedeschi Soave.
soup with galangal and mushroom) to southern Thai-style masaman curries served over jasmine rice. Keeping it casual are The Beach Club and Beach Bar where one can watch sunsets colour the skies over grilled seafood and some of the finest wines from a cellar stocked with over 400 vintages. In conjunction with the resort’s grand opening, The Datai welcomed some of its key guests with the first of its signature chef series featuring the father-and-son duo
The ensuing culinary highlights included a wildcaught turbot seared with brown butter and saffron, duck liver from Domaine Castaing with calamansi vinegar and a reinterpretation of another Bras signature, a coolant chocolate biscuit with malt ice cream recalling the famed chocolat fondant of 1981. If anything, the eight courses by the Bras duo was a microcosm of The Datai Langkawi, touched by the certainty of purpose, honouring nature and setting off on a journey which thrilled and amazed in equal measure. www.thedatai.com
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Wonder, Wander Long before wellness and sustainability became mainstream concepts, luxury hospitality group Six Senses was already ahead of the curve. CEO Neil Jacobs shares how the brand continues to stick to this ethos even as it embraces an urban landscape.
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ess is the new more in the travel industry today as people are choosing the value of the experience over pure opulence. Is the age of luxury travel over, we have to ask. Not according to Six Senses CEO Neil Jacobs. It is simply morphing. With a 30-year career under his belt – he has worked with luxury brands such as Four Seasons and travel investment firms such as Starwood Capital Group – Jacobs has witnessed the peaks and troughs of travel trends, and believes that luxury travel is here to stay. What has changed, however, is simply the definition of luxury. He says: “Luxury is not just about crystal chandeliers and
Photo: Seth Powers
By Hazel Vincent De Paul
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one else is doing wellness, sustainability or unique guest experiences to its level.
polished marble anymore. It’s about the intrinsic value of the content around what is being offered. People want more meaning and a greater takeaway from a stay in a resort or a hotel. They’re also thinking more about where and how money is being spent.” Conversations are less about what you have and more about where you are at, opines Jacobs. He finds that the world today is more conscious than it was five or 10 years ago and bragging rights over the dinner table have evolved; it’s not only about your latest suit or newest car, but it’s also about sharing the experiences you’ve had and who you’ve connected with. “Besides,” he chuckles, “you know something has changed when Goldman Sachs starts running meditation classes for their traders.”
Six Senses Duxton was designed by Anouska Hempel; Six Senses CEO Neil Jacobs.
Six Senses’ eco-friendly efforts go beyond just maligning plastic straws. The push for sustainability begins when Six Senses reaches out to a brand to negotiate a partnership. “In exchange for using the Six Senses name, the owners also have to set aside 0.5 per cent of the hotel’s overall revenue towards sustainability initiatives. This is non-negotiable and we will walk away from the project if that’s something we can’t agree on,” says Jacobs. These sustainability efforts should also have an impact on the overall location, he states, adding that “in Maldives it can be about marine conservation or reef generation or manta ray research, whereas in Oman, it’s completely different, like village education or clean water”. “Did you know you can’t get a Perrier at Six Senses?” he asks excitedly. The reason for that is simple: the company has had its own bottling plants for 20 years. “We’ve always made our own still and sparkling water because we’re not going to be shipping mineral water from halfway around the world,” says Jacobs, adding that the brand has been cultivating its own permaculturists and organic gardens to grow its food – long before farm-to-table became fashionable.
“People want more meaning and a greater takeaway from a stay in a resort or a hotel.”
On the Wellness Train
Today, the Six Senses brand stands out not just for its stunning resorts in off-thebeaten-track locations, but also because no
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Moreover, the company is also big on eradicating single-use plastic and has embarked upon a plastic-free initiative. “We’re saying we’ll eradicate plastic, period, by 2022. Now, that’s the goal, but if we manage to hit 80 per cent of our target by then, I’ll still be very happy,” he explains. It doesn’t just stop there, says Jacobs, because there’s more to sustainability than what is visible to the guests. It is ingrained in the very ethos of the brand. Jacobs offers this example: “When the fisherman at Six Senses Yao Noi brings his catch everyday, it comes in a plastic crate. So we’ve got to educate him that this doesn’t work anymore and that he needs to find alternatives if he wants our business.”
A New Chapter
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“We want to eradicate plastic by 2022. If we manage to hit 80 per cent of our target by then, I’ll still be very happy.” mean that Six Senses has compromised its existing values and sustainability and wellness pillars. The properties reside in protected heritage buildings and you really can’t get any more sustainable than that, he emphasises. “Even in our urban environments, we’re growing vegetables on the roof.” There’s no spa at either hotel, but there is a fulltime TCM doctor at Six Senses Duxton. But there’s good news for fans as Six Senses Spa will be setting up a space at the Robb Report Concourse Skyline Penthouse, which will be launching this month and will be by-invite only. For now, Six Senses is looking to establish a holistic wellness centre in the area. The project is likely to take a year or so, but eventually, all three buildings will be within a two-minute walk of each other. The goal is for both properties to become an integral part of the communities here, bringing the local shopkeepers and the hotels closer together in a seamless yet meaningful way. www.sixsenses.com
Murray Terrace Brasserie at Six Senses Maxwell is named after the 1929 heritage building’s former tenant, Murray Terrace Food Alley.
Photo: Seth Powers
Six Senses is undergoing another crucial period of change this year, as it was recently acquired for US$300 million by IHG. The worry, of course, with any corporate acquisition is whether Six Senses can retain its authentic voice in IHG’s immense but assorted portfolio that includes the Regent and Kimpton collection of hotels. Jacobs is not worried. The beauty of working with IHG, he says, is that “the commitment from them is as simple as supporting us where they can add value”. The acquisition is timely as it comes just as Six Senses moves into the urban property market. The company launched its first two urban properties – Six Senses Duxton and Six Senses Maxwell – in Singapore, last year. When asked what motivated the decision to diverge from its usual modus operandi, Jacobs responds that the brand always had a goal to enter the urban environment, believing that wellness is relevant to the metropolitan audience. In some way, he explains, the urban escapes in Singapore provide continuity. “If you’ve been at one of our resorts on a programme for a week or so, you can continue what you’re doing at home; our Duxton and Maxwell properties, along with the other urban properties we have in the mix, can offer that kind of support. This was really part of the motivation to snag a space in the urban property market.” Moreover, being part of a new landscape does not
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Playing with Fire (and Ice) Chef Mads Refslund gets creative at W Koh Samui.
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By Dr Akkrawat Paye Srinarong
t W Koh Samui, Denmark’s Mads Refslund, formerly of the renowned Noma, remains one of the world’s most creatively individual chefs. He tells Robb Report Thailand how he plans not to conquer the world, but rather save it.
How do you enjoy working with W Koh Samui? They are professional, organised and take good care of me. I’ve been around the region, first at W Bali, then W Singapore. I love it so far.
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What are your thoughts on integrating Thai ingredients in your cuisine? Some of them I use. I have decided to change a few things on the menu after I visited a local market this morning. The fresh coconuts were beautiful. There were also some herbs for the duck, which I will be preparing. Where I prepare my food really matters. It won’t be the same experience eating the same food at different locations. For instance, drinking Italian wine in Italy gives you a totally different experience and taste from having the same bottle elsewhere.
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Mads Refslund has won Denmark’s Critics Choice / Dish of the Year awards four times, in 2003, 2007, 2008 and 2009.
it for yourself. I’m not trying to build a restaurant. Instead, I’m trying to build a kitchen that integrates into a restaurant. For instance, having a dining table inside the kitchen will give you a sincere feeling of the food that is being prepared for you. For me it’s about fun and interactivity. The energy will be amazing.
Photo: Kaan
Please share your passion about the ‘turning food waste into treasure’ concept. It is a philosophy about not throwing things away. It’s not like I’m serving you garbage, but we get creative with the chosen food waste, turning it into quality cuisine. Did you know that in the US, 50 per cent of food is gone to waste? This is unheard of in my world and it’s wrong. The inspiration came when I was eating sushi in New York City. As I went through my omakase, I started to wonder what these sushi restaurants do with the leftover fish skins, so I began to source and to buy them from one of those places. That’s how it all started.
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How do you plan to invade the world with Nordic cuisine? (At my restaurant in New York) I am not cooking Nordic. I engage more on adapting to local styles and tastes, while being true to my roots. The concept we are starting in New York is fire and ice; just a fire pit and ice, at the bar. It’s hard to explain. You have to see
What’s the philosophy behind your success? Just do what you love. I don’t care about Michelin stars; they are not what drive me. What drives me is what makes people happy, how I could make my team happy. If you’re a happy person, you cook happy food and the guests can feel it. In Danish, we have a terminology called ‘hyyge’. It’s about creating a cosy feeling; something you can bring to your friends. It’s about doing something nice for others. Thai people are like that.
“It’s not like I’m serving you garbage, but we get creative with the chosen food waste, turning it into quality cuisine.”
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Robb Report
Photo: Kaan
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3/20/19 10:09 AM
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Insider Italian
Returning after a makeover, La Scala at The Sukhothai, Bangkok is ready to resume its nearly two-decade dedication to upscale dining. By MARK LEAN
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he Sukhothai Bangkok uniquely combines the best characteristics of a boutique property and a luxury chain hotel. Prior to the opening of The Sukhothai Shanghai, this Bangkok hotel was a standalone trailblazer that had guests returning for its memorable service and equally memorable selection of dining options. This notion is perfectly encapsulated in its Italian restaurant, La Scala, which since 2002 has been one of Bangkok’s top tables. Diners come for the standout specialities of chef David Tamburini, whose food narrative is described as a celebration of simple ingredients, prepared with “insight and beauty”. The new menu delivers a couple of standouts. Expect precisely made crowdpleasers like the capesante, topinambur, nero di norcia comprising pan-seared Hokkaido scallops; Jerusalem artichokes; braised, creamy and crispy anchovies and a decadent sprinkling of Norcia winter truffle. Pasta dishes, too, venture into territory beyond the usual. There is the cavatelli ai pomidori, astice blu di bretagna – homemade Cavatelli pasta
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Robb Report
Chef Tamburini is clearly a master of the classics.
Chef David Tamburini’s menu captures the essence of contemporary Italian dining.
with Brittany blue lobster and jus, and fresh Italian tomatoes. Gnocchi fans might prefer the ricotta, ham and chestnut version plated with girolle mushrooms and Norcia black truffle. Meaty main courses run the gamut of Iberico lamb, veal and Stockyard’s Australian black label Wagyu striploin with pickled Neapolitan vegetables. The restaurant’s interior was recently revamped with a centrepiece oval ceiling and an adjacent open kitchen. If Italian food was comparable to performance art, then at La Scala, chef Tamburini is clearly a master of the classics. His motto: simplicity combined with “techniques in new tastes [results in] memories that always renew itself ”. The restaurant’s dedicated local following would probably be hard-pressed to disagree. www.sukhothai.com/bangkok/en
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Five black pillars connect the oval ceiling to the open kitchen space.
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Robb Report
SAME, BUT DIFFERENT Nahm, with its new chef and menu, got a Michelin star last year. Here’s what to expect.
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By mark Lean
A couple of exciting occurrences took place at Nahm during the second quarter of last year. The stylish restaurant at Como Metropolitan Bangkok, beloved by Asia’s crazy rich (and hungry) set, received a makeover of sorts. spin through Thailand’s bucolic farm country. A keen supporter of local food producers, she revolves her menu around home-grown crowd-pleasers like banana blossom petals served with seasoned crispy fish; miang of lobster, chicken, green mango and snake fruit; Wagyu herb soup; and lamb massaman
Clockwise from left: duck curry with snake fruit; terrace seating at Nahm; Chef Pim Techamuanvivit with Nahm staff.
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Photos: Jason Michael Lang
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ts new menu emphasises the robust aromas of Thai street food and homestyle dishes a mother would be proud to serve. The restaurant was also awarded a Michelin star by Michelin Guide Thailand. Chef Pim Techamuanvivit, a food writer (her former blog Chez Pim had a following of both insider American chefs and ardent Thai food fans) and owner of the one Michelin star Kin Khao in San Francisco, takes Nahm on a maternal
Chef Pim Techamuanvivit takes Nahm on a maternal spin through Thailand’s bucolic farm country.
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Robb Report
“I see it as a personal responsibility as a successful chef to promote artisans who are doing things the right way.”
Photos: Jason Michael Lang
Main image: santol pad rice crackers. Inset: pigeon laab kua.
curry with lychees, tender potatoes and crispy shallots. Before finalising the present awardwinning menu, chef Techamuanvivit took a road trip through the northern regions of her home country. The result? Discoveries of rare produce such as green grain rice, which replaces the jasmine rice that was served at the restaurant in previous years. There is also palm sugar, sourced from an elderly couple in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, who make it by hand. “I see it as a personal responsibility as a successful chef to promote artisans who are doing things the right way. It’s another kind of sustainability, to help create a good market and commercial viability for these local artisans and farmers so their businesses are sustainable, and they can make a comfortable living,” she says. www. comohotels.com/en/metropolitanbangkok
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Robb Report
The Art of Thai food Chef Nooror Somany Steppe speaks about her plans for the award-winning restaurant Blue Elephant. By MARK LEAN
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long busy Sathorn Road, there is a lot happening when it comes to Thai food. From Nahm to Baan Khanitha and farther down the thoroughfare, housed in a stunning heritage building that was formerly the Thai Chinese Chamber of Commerce headquarters is the Blue Elephant Cooking School and Restaurant. It’s the epicentre of the Blue Elephant
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Robb Report
Specialities such as crab curry with betel leaves and massaman lamb curry with sweet purple potato are waiting for you at Blue Elephant.
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On the menu are ‘forgotten’ recipes that chef Somany has revived.
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empire, one that stretches from Paris to Brussels. Here, chef Nooror Somany Steppe tests her new creations while plating time-honoured Thai classics. On the menu are ‘forgotten’ recipes that chef Somany has revived. Expect classics like the slightly spicy crab curry with betel leaves; lamb massaman curry with potatoes; as well as the popular chicken green curry spiked with bird’seye chillies. Blue Elephant also partners with the Royal Project, sourcing directly from farms in various provinces of Thailand, supporting and sustaining the local community. Chef Somany taps ingredients and produce like pomelo from Nakhonpathom, longan honey and perilla seeds from Royal Project Farm, som mao from Satul,
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black garlic from Chaiyaphoom, sen chan (noodles) from Chantaburi, sturgeon from Hua Hin and poultry from Sukhothai. “I adapt my tried and tested recipes to keep the natural taste of such ingredients,” says chef Somany, who along with her husband Karl, continues to present an extremely palatable vision of Thai food to the world. According to her, “sustainable cooking” also applies to the preservation and passing down of love and passion for Thai food to the next generation. Head to Blue Elephant if you have friends from out of town who’re keen on sampling dishes that have been raved about from Malta to Copenhagen. While you’re there, pop by the Blue Bar. The lemongrass martini is an institution on its own. www.blueelephant.com
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Robb Report
Vvon Sugunnasil
Master of details By Tuptim Malakul na Ayuthaya
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tyle is a way to express who you are without having to speak. With its bespoke service, Vvon Sugunnasil creates the appearance and the very essence of luxury, with clothes that reflect and express one’s personality. Sugunnasil’s eponymous line is created from the most exquisite cloth, made to measure in the finest tradition, with exceptional style and exacting cut. A perfectionist in every sense, he takes care in the details. Each stitch and button is scrutinised until he is satisfied. Stylishly classic, he follows no trends. Stepping into his clothes, a person immediately radiates refined elegance. A graduate of Srinakharinwirot University in theatre design, Sugunnasil was snapped up to work for well-known theatrical producer Takonkiat Viravan. He also spent a year in France researching bespoke boutiques, and upon his return, he opened his first store in Sukhumvit. It did not take long to establish
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“A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life.” Oscar Wilde
Sugunnasil’s line as the by-word of style among members of Thailand’s rarefied circles. While Sugunnasil became the talk of the town, his passion took him to the next level. He was commissioned to design the latest suits and uniforms for staff aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express. Ranking as the top 25 trains in the world, the legendary locomotive service was the perfect canvas for the unveiling of Sugunnasil’s latest endeavour, catapulting him into the stratosphere of Asia’s top tailors. Slip into his suits and you’ll know you have arrived.
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2/22/19 5:01 PM
THE LAST WORD
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AUTOS FOR THE APOCALYPSE By Jason H Harper
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omewhere between the fiction of The Walking Dead and the realities of natural disasters, it occurs to us that it could be smart to own a vehicle capable of escaping zombie
Robb Report
POLARIS RZR XP 4 TURBO S THE 101: A souped-up, open-air buggy
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SPECS: Turbocharged fourstroke, twin-cylinder engine with 168hp; US$30,499 (before taxes and duties) FOOTPRINT: Carries four, has 32-inch wheels and 41cm of ground clearance DISASTER FLICK TO MATCH: Mad Max. The vehicle should be in every road warrior’s garage BOTTOM LINE: A fast, super-capable off-roader that Mel Gibson would approve of
JEEP GLADIATOR RUBICON THE 101: It’s a Jeep Wrangler with a truck bed SPECS: 3.6-litre V6 engine with 285hp and 355Nm of torque; US$48,000 (estimated before taxes and duties
FOOTPRINT: 79cm longer than the four-door Jeep Wrangler
DISASTER FLICK TO MATCH: San Andreas. This Jeep could negotiate quake-broken streets and manoeuvre around abandoned vehicles
BOTTOM LINE: The legendary Jeep now has room to carry all of your survival gear
THE 101: BMW’s adventure motorcycle, new and primed for on- and off-road retreats SPECS: Flat-twin boxer engine with 136hp and 142Nm of torque; US$17,695 before taxes and duties FOOTPRINT: Burly and tall enough to intimidate New York City taxis; slim enough to slip through clogged streets DISASTER FLICK TO MATCH: Independence Day. Aliens are attacking your city and you’ve gotta get out of town fast BOTTOM LINE: The best way to beat traffic
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UNIMOG THE 101: This Daimler-produced multipurpose truck is the equivalent of a tank and you can potentially live inside it SPECS: Option for six-litre, turbocharged diesel engine with 300hp; US$100,000-plus (estimate before taxes and duties) FOOTPRINT: A movable house DISASTER FLICK TO MATCH: The Day After. The Unimog would allow you to roll across the wastelands safely BOTTOM LINE: Might be the most capable offroader on the planet
MERCEDES-BENZ G 550 THE 101: An all-new version of the militaryminded Gelandewagen SPECS: Four-litre twin-turbo V8 engine, with 416hp and 610Nm of torque; US$124,500 before taxes and duties FOOTPRINT: The brute is 1.95m high and weighs more than 2,495kg DISASTER FLICK TO MATCH: World War Z. This Mercedes-Benz will give you a fighting chance at escape BOTTOM LINE: The apocalypse just got comfortable
Illustration: Asaf Hanuka
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3/20/19 5:16 PM
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