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Type set in Gill Sans Minion Pro Copperplate All Rights Reserved Copyright Pete Hewitt 2014
THE M O U NTA I N E E R { K2 }
CONTENTS
06 Introduction 10 Routes 11 History 14 The Abruzzi Spur 16
The Bottle Kneck
18 01 08 08 28 Deaths on the Mountain 31 Bibliography
‘S AVAG E M O UNTA I N’
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{ K2 }
Known as the Savage Mountain, K2 is regarded as the most challenging of all the eight thousanders due to it’s extreme difficulty of ascent. It also boasts the second highest fatality rate. For every four people who have reached the summit, one has died trying.
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Chhogori/Qogir | Ketu/Kechu | Mount Godwin-Austen
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“...just the bare bones of a name, all rock and ice and storm and abyss. It makes no attempt to sound human. It is atoms and stars. It has the nakedness of the world before the first man – or of the cindered planet after the last”
Fosco Maraini.
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MO UNTAIN’
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the ‘SAVAGE
savage adjective 1 (of an animal or force of nature) fierce, violent, and uncontrolled:
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8, 611 28,251
METRES FEET
F A
B
D
E
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C
fig 1.
THE ROUTES A West Ridge B West Face C Southwest Pillar D South Face E South-southeast Spur F Abruzzi Spur (facing K2 from the Pakistani side)
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1902 / 2008
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SUMMIT H I S TO RY
‘S AVAG E M O UNTA I N’
K-2 was first attempted in 1902 by Oscar Eckenstein. His summit attempt along the northeast ridge stalled at 20,000.
1909
The Duke of Abruzzi attempted the climb via the SE but made it only to 19,600 feet. This route, latter called the Abruzzi Spur, is the route that latter led to the first summit of K-2.
1938
Charles Houston led a team that made it to 25,000 on the Abruzzi Spur Route. Weather and a lack of adequate supplies forced to the expedition to end.
1939
A year later Fritz Weissner got to within 750 vertical feet of the summit. But his sherpa, afraid of making the summit after dark, was afraid the spirits would kill them and again, forced a retreat.
1953
Charles Houston tried again. After making the climb to 25,600 things went from bad to worse. While waiting for a break in the terrible weather, one of the team, Art Gilkey, suffered from blood clots in his leg. As the team began to retreat and began lowering Gilkey by ropes, one member of the team slipped and pulled down 4 others with him. Pete Schoening had been belaying them, and his ice axe, buried behind a rock, was the only thing that saved them all from a sure death. As the team finally tried to settle in to bivouac Gilkey was left unattended and was swept off the mountain in an avalanche. His remains were not found for 40 years.
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1902
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K-2 was finally summited by the Italian team of Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli by way of the Abruzzi Spur.
1986
1986 was a brutal year on K2, 27 made the summit in 86, but 13 people died trying.
2008
A group of climbers went missing during an avalanche that took out the fixed ropes on part of the route. Eleven climbers, including Gerard McDonnell, the first Irish person to reach the summit, were confirmed dead.
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1954
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THE A B RU Z Z I S P U R
The Pakistani side The most popular, and generally considered one of the most dangerous routes, is the Abruzzi Spur. It is generally considered the most dangerous because it is the most climbed.
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Other less popular routes from the Pakistani side include the W Ridge, W Face, SW Pillar or “Magic Line” (a route Reinhold Messner once called suicidal) S/SE Spur and the South Face.
Camp 2 to Camp 3 is the most technical section of the climb, with approximately 400 meters of vertical and near-vertical climbing on mixed rock and ice in a region known as the Black Pyramid. House’s Chimney,Black Pyramid and Bottleneck are the most noted aspects of this route. Camp 3 is at about 7,450 metres and is very suseptible to avalanches. The climb to camp 4 is a long snow slog typically accomplished without fixed lines. Camp 4 at about 8,000 metres is still more than 1/2 a day from the summit.
The Abruzzi Spur (South East Ridge) This is the closest to a “normal” route on K2, but is still extremely difficult and dangerous. The route starts on loose scree for about 1,000 metres to camp 1. Camp 1 at about 6,000 metres is exposed but relatively secure, with little or no history of avalanche danger. The climb to Camp 2 includes a 50meter off-width crack called House’s Chimney which is currently a spider’s web of old ropes. Camp 2 is sheltered by a large rock, but can get extremely windy and cold.
The Summit 8,611 metres. Most climbers leave between 10 p.m and 1 a.m. for the summit. The Bottleneck, a 100-meter narrow couloir at 8,300 meters that is 80-90 degrees if windswept and cold, the ice in this couloir can create extremely challenging, sustained climbing. At least 10 of the climbers who have died on K2 lost their lives in the Bottleneck.
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K2 SUMMIT 8611m
CAMP 4 8000m
CAMP 3 7450m
fig 2.
CAMP 1 6000m
ROUTE F THE ABRUZZI SPUR
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CAMP 2 6760m
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THE BOTTL E KNECK
{8 2 0 0 m} ‘the most dangerous part of the route’
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K2 SUMMIT 8611m
The Bottleneck is a location along the South-East Spur, known also as Abruzzi Spur the most used route to the top of K2, the second highest mountain in the world in the Karakoram on the Pakistan/China border.
BOTTLENECK CAMP 4 8000m
The Bottleneck is a narrow couloir, which is overhung by seracs from the ice field east of the summit. The couloir is located only 400m below the summit, and climbers have to traverse about 100m exposed to the seracs to pass it. Due to the height (8200m) and the steepness (50-60 degrees) this stretch is the most dangerous part of the route,13 out of the last 14 fatalities on K2 have occurred at or near the Bottleneck.
The climbers approaching the bottleneck start from a shoulder, an almost level ground just below 8,000 metres, where typically the highest camp is located. The bottom end of the couloir drops to the south face of the mountain, and it gradually steepens to 60 degrees just below the ice field. It is not possible to climb up the icefield, which rises straight up tens of metres, but one has to traverse leftwards at the bottom of the icefield 100 metres until it is possible to pass the icefield.
Despite all the dangers, the Bottleneck is still technically the easiest and the fastest route to the summit. Most climbers choose to use it to minimize time required to spend above 8,000 metres (the “death zone�). The standard route, the Abruzzi (SE) Ridge, as well as the Cesen route (SSE Ridge, which joins SE Ridge), and the American variety on the NE Ridge (traverse across E Face to SE Ridge), all attain the summit via the Bottleneck.
It is possible to pass the Bottleneck by rock-climbing the cliffs on the left. Unfortunately their technical difficulty is quite high, so this slow-going alternative has only been done once, by Fritz Wiessner and Pasang Dawa Lama Sherpa in 1939.
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fig 3.
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24 H O U R S ON K2 P . 18
01 08 08
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The 2008 K2 disaster occurred on 1 August 2008, when eleven mountaineers from international expeditions died on K2. Three others were seriously injured. It was the worst single accident in the history of K2 mountaineering. The climbing season at K2 lasts from June to August, but in 2008 adverse weather prevented any groups from summiting during June and July. At the end of July, ten different groups were awaiting the possibility to reach the summit. With the end of July approaching, weather forecasts indicated improving weather, and several groups had arrived at Camp IV1 on 31 July in preparation to try the summit as soon as weather would permit. forecasts indicated improving weather, and several groups had arrived at Camp IV on 31 Julyin preparation to try the summit as soon as weather would permit. The Sherpas and Pakistani high-altitude porters (HAPs) started to prepare fixed lines upwards before midnight. They were joined by Spanish climber Alberto Zerain who had come up from camp III during the night and decided to continue his summit push rather than stay at camp IV. However, the most experienced HAP, Shaheen Baig (from the Serbian team), had to go back down with symptoms of high altitude sickness. His experience was missed and in the confusion, ropes may have been left behind or placed too far to the right side of the Bottleneck2. When the groups started upward at 3 a.m., the Sherpas and HAPs had prepared lines from the shoulder, where they were not needed, up into the Bottleneck (a steep couloir-a gully-leading to the summit slopes), and then had run out of rope for the traverse just above the bottleneck. This forced them to take rope from the lower portion of the route and use it to prepare the lines above the Bottleneck, causing an unplanned delay. At this point the American group decided to abort the attempt and return to the lower camp. It should be noted though, that traditionally, the Bottleneck and ensuing traverse were climbed without fixed ropes. It has been suggested that the climbers of the 2008 K2 summer season were perhaps depending too much on the fixed ropes. At 8 a.m. people were advancing through the Bottleneck. Dren Mandić decided to attend to his oxygen system and so unclipped the rope to let other climbers pass. Mandić lost his balance and fell, bumping into Cecilie Skog. She was still clipped to the rope and was only knocked over. Mandić however, fell over 100 m down the bottleneck. Some climbers claimed that he was still moving after the fall. People in Camp IV saw the fall and sent a group to help recover his injured or dead body. Swede Fredrik Sträng stated he took command of the recovery operation.
Dren Mandić dies from a fall after losing his balance at the Bottlekneck.
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1 See fig 2.
2 See fig 3.
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1 August 08
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When Sträng reached the body, Serbian climbers Predrag Zagorac and Iso Planic and their HAP Mohammed Hussein had already arrived. They had found no pulse and judging by the severity of his injuries, Mandić was pronounced dead. The Serbian climbers decided to lower the body down to camp IV and Sträng assisted them. They were joined by HAP Jehan Baig (from the French-led independent expedition). He had fulfilled his assisting duties and had been allowed to head down. Several people later indicated he may have been suffering from high altitude sickness, since he had displayed questionable behaviour in abseiling down the bottleneck. Sträng also noticed that he was incoherent, first offering to help in the rescue, later refusing to help, only to return moments later to assist them again. Jehan Baig lost his footing, bumping into Sträng who then urged him to let go of the rope attached to Mandić harness, before all four climbers would be dragged down. Baig finally let go of the rope, but to Sträng and the others’ surprise, he did not try to stop his slide by using the self-arrest technique. Jehan Baig fell to his death.
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It is unclear why he did not try to stop his slide. Sträng decided to descend without the body of Mandić. The Serbian group wrapped the body of Mandić in a flag and fastened him to the mountain before aborting and starting to descend. These delays, together with the traffic jam in the Bottleneck, resulted in most people reaching the summit much later than planned, some as late as 8 p.m. (the typical time for summiting being between 3 p.m. and 5 p.m.). All together, 18 people summited that day. On the descent, the Spaniard Alberto Zerain, who had topped out first and alone at 3 p.m., managed to pass through the Bottleneck without trouble. But at 8:30 p.m. when the Norwegian group - including Lars Flatø Nessa and Cecilie Skog who reached the summit two hours later than Zerain - had almost negotiated the traverse leading to the Bottleneck, a serac (a large block of ice) broke off from the ice field above. As it fell, it cut all the fixed lines and took with it Rolf Bae (Cecilie Skog’s husband), who had abandoned the attempt only 100 m below the summit and was descending at the front of the group. Lars and Cecilie continued descending without the fixed lines and managed to reach Camp IV during the night. As a result of the serac fall, the climb in the Bottleneck became steeper and more technical. Chunks of ice lay scattered around the route, and the mountaineers above were stranded in the so-called death zone above 8000 meters. Since the climbers were counting on the fixed lines, they were not carrying additional ropes Jehan Baig suffering from altitude sickness falls to his death. 8:30 p.m. Rolf Bae is killed by a falling serac.
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and fall protection devices, forcing the climbers to “free solo” the descent through the notorious Bottleneck. There were still multiple climbers above the Bottleneck, and according to Dutch mountaineer Wilco van Rooijen, panic broke out among them. Some tried to descend in the darkness, while others decided to bivouac and wait until morning before descending.
Two members of the Korean expedition, Kim Jae-soo and Go Mi-Young, also managed to navigate the bottleneck in the dark, although the latter had to be helped by two Sherpas from the Korean B team, Chhiring Bhote and “Big” Pasang Bhote, who were supposed to summit the next morning. The men had climbed up around midnight with food and oxygen and found Go Mi-Young stranded somewhere in the Bottleneck, unsure of which route she had to take. They guided her down safely. Meanwhile, Dutchman Cas van de Gevel and Frenchman Hugues D’Aubarede had also decided to manoeuvre the bottleneck in the dark. As he reached the bottom of the Bottleneck, Cas van de Gevel witnessed a climber falling to his death, a story corroborated by the two Sherpas Chhiring Bhote and “big” Pasang Bhote, who also had witnessed one or two objects falling from the mountain. This climber was likely Hugues D’Aubarede, whom van de Gevel had passed just above the Bottleneck in the dark on the way down. D’Aubarede had run out of bottled oxygen hours before, and when van de Gevelhad passed him, he had looked tired and insisted van de Gevel descend before him. Marco Confortola, Wilco van Rooijen and Gerard McDonnell bivouacked above the traverse, as they could not find the fixed ropes leading across the traverse. Confortola claimed that during the bivouac, he heard screams and saw headlights disappear below him after a roaring sound came from the serac field. At that point, 8 people were still above the Bottleneck, stranded in the death zone.
Hugues D’Aubarede falls during decent at night. 4 climbers had perised by the end of the first day.
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Pemba Gyalje descended in the darkness without fixed ropes and reached the Camp IV before midnight. Sherpa Chhiring Dorje also free-soloed the Bottleneck with “little” Pasang Lama (who had been stranded without an ice axe) secured to his harness. “I can just about imagine how you might pull it off,” writes Ed Viesturs in K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. “You kick each foot in solid, plant the axe, then tell the other guy to kick with his own feet and punch holds with his hands. Don’t move until he’s secure. Still, if Pasang had come off, he probably would have taken Chhiring with him. Talk about selfless!”
‘S AVAG E M O UNTA I N’
2 August 08
The rescue efforts started in the base camp as a group was sent upwards with ropes to help those still stuck in the Bottleneck. The group included Tsering Bhote and "big" Pasang Bhote, who had previously helped Go Mi-Young down the Bottleneck and now went to search for their relative Jumik Bhote. Jumik was left stranded with the remaining climbers of the Korean expedition somewhere above the Bottleneck.
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Early in the morning above the traverse, van Rooijen gave up the search for the fixed ropes and descended alone. His vision was deteriorating and he feared he was going snow blind. He needed to get off the mountain fast. Marco Confortola and Gerard McDonnell did not follow him immediately. Later, van Rooijen reached the remaining Korean climbers (Confortola claims one of them was Kyeong-Hyo Park) and their guide Jumik Bhote. The men were tangled in several ropes and had clearly been hanging there, some upside down and bloodied, for quite a while. But they were all alive. It is unclear what exactly happened to them. It is believed the men were the victims of a second serac fall, an avalanche or perhaps a regular fall leaving them tangled in the ropes. Some sources mention only two Koreans and Jumik Bhote, whilst other reports indicate three remaining Koreans (one near death). It could be that this was the event Confortola had witnessed during the bivouac the previous night. It could also be that this was the second object Tsering Bhote and "big" Pasang Bhote saw falling off the mountain. There is however, little evidence to support both claims. Wilco van Rooijen handed Jumik Bhote his spare pair of gloves, but was unable to help them any more. He claims Jumik Bhote informed him a rescue mission was under way from camp IV. Van Rooijen decided to descend farther. Marco Confortola and Gerard McDonnell reached the three men somewhere in the morning. They worked for several hours trying to free them. It is unclear what happened next. Confortola claims McDonnell, after working with Confortola for at least 1.5 hours, suddenly climbed back up the mountain, leaving him with the three stranded men. Confortola assumed McDonnell had succumbed to high-altitude sickness and was growing delusional, believing he had to climb back up. Left alone, Confortola did all he could for Jumik Bhote, giving him his own equipment. They had managed to get the Koreans back into at least a comfortable position. Confortola says he was able to radio with Tsering Bhote and “big” Pasang Bhote who were on their way up to rescue the men. Confortola had spent at least three hours with the entangled men and was exhausted. He continued down.
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Just after noon, Tsering Bhote and “big” Pasang Bhote had reached the bottom of the Bottleneck. There they found Marco Confortola crawling on his hands and feet. The two Sherpas radioed Pemba Gyalje and Cas van de Gevel to come up for Confortola so that they could continue the search for their relative Jumik Bhote and the Koreans. “Big” Pasang Bhote later radioed Pemba Gyalje with more news. He had met Jumik Bhote and two members of the Korean expedition just above the bottleneck. Apparently they were freed after all. He also radioed in bad news. A fourth climber, climbing behind the two Koreans and the two Sherpas on the lower parts of the traverse, had been swept away by a serac fall and was dead. The description of the climber matched Gerard McDonnell’s red-and-black down suit. This would suggest Confortola was mistaken in identifying the remains in the avalanche as McDonnell’s and supports the theory that McDonnell freed the two Koreans and Jumik Bhote before perishing in a different serac fall. Tsering Bhote, from his position at the base of the Bottleneck, has also claimed to have seen a serac fall strike the rescue party as they were descending near the top of the bottleneck. Here, another mystery of the 2008 K2 disaster reveals itself. There was one other climber still unaccounted for: Hugues D’Aubarede’s Pakistani HAP Meherban Karim. He was last seen returning from the summit with D’Aubarede in the later hours of 1 August. He and D’Aubarede must have gotten separated in the dark, as Cas van de Gevel encountered only D’Aubarede above the Bottleneck. Wilco van Rooijen, in his book “Surviving K2”, supports the theory that Meherban Karim bivouacked even higher on the mountain than van Rooijen, Confortola and McDonnell. Again he provides photographic evidence: What looks like a climber can be seen above the serac field on the morning of 2 August. In a later photo, the figure looks to have disappeared with a trail leading down the seracs. Wilco van Rooijen and others, such as McDonnell’s partner Annie Starkey, believe this figure to be Karim.
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Several people dispute Confortola’s version of the events. Wilco van Rooijen, who had seen Confortola and McDonnell helping the stranded Koreans and their guide from below, believes McDonnell did not climb back up the mountain, but rather climbed up to the highest anchor supporting the three stranded men to try to transfer the load. He then may have returned to the three men and spent another several hours alone helping free the men from the ropes. Confortola has claimed that some time after he left the three men, an avalanche struck just feet away from him. In the rubble of this avalanche, he spotted the remains of one climber. After investigating them, he suggests these were the remains of McDonnell.
‘S AVAG E M O UNTA I N’
Disoriented from spending the night at such high altitudes without an oxygen mask, he must have gotten lost and stumbled onto the serac field, where he fell or got swept away by an avalanche or part of the serac breaking. He might have actually caused one of the serac falls. Hence, it apparently was Karim's remains Confortola had found earlier in the avalanche rubble. Graham Bowley, in his book No Way Down, is unable to refute the evidence presented by van Rooijen, but still finds the photos to be inconclusive at best. He is joined in his analysis by writer Michael Kodas. Both men edge towards the testimony of the only living eyewitness: Marco Confortola. In the photos taken by Pemba Gyalje, individual climbers cannot be made out. In fact, some of the figures assumedto be climbers could very well be rock. Marks that look like trails are everywhere on the mountain.
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Minutes after "big" Pasang Bhote had radioed in the news that he had found his relative Jumik Bhote and three Koreans, another avalanche or serac fall struck. It swept away the four men. Tsering Bhote, who had climbed more slowly than fellow rescuer "big" Pasang Bhote, had not yet reached the top of the Bottleneck. Hemiraculously survived the avalanche, as did Pemba Gyalje and Marco Confortola at the bottom of the Bottleneck. Meanwhile, van Rooijen was making his way down the mountain alone. He had climbed down a new route to the left of the Cesan route, bypassing Camp IV.Van de Gevel and Sherpa Gyalje descended from Camp IV to Camp III after they had heard van Rooijen was still somewhere on the mountain.Van Rooijen had managed several satellite phone calls that may have helped pinpoint his location. He would have to spend a second bivouac out on the mountain. Kyeong-Hyo Park, Hyo-Gyeong Kim, DongJin Hwang, Jumik Bhote and Pasang Bhote are all killed in fourth serac fall. 11 climbers from the 10 seperate groups that set out on the 1st had all perished in just 24 hours.
3 August 08
Van de Gevel and sherpa Gyalje made contact with van Rooijen on the Abruzzi3 route early in the morning; the three managed to get down to the base camp at 10 p.m.
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3 See fig 2.
Van de Gevel and van Rooijen were evacuated from base camp by helicopter to Skardu. Confortola reached Camp II, the advanced base camp. Pakistani authorities released a list of names of those killed and injured.
5 August 08
Confortola, along with another climber, was evacuated from K2 base camp to Skardu by helicopter.
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4 August 08
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306
81
SUMMITS
DEATHS
1954 - 2014
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Pakistan
Ireland
Korea
Korea
Korea
Nepal
Nepal
Karim Mehrban
Gerard McDonnell
Kyeong-Hyo Park
Hyo-Gyung Kim
Dong-Jin Hwang
Jumic Bhote
Pasang Bhote
Norway
Rolf Bae
France
Pakistan
Jahan Baig
Hugues d’Aubarede
Serbia
Dren Mandić
The fourth serac fall
After helping the injured Koreans, he was hit by either the second or third serac fall
Either the second serac fall or the third serac fall
Fell in descent during the night
The first serac fall
Fell while trying to recover Dren Mandić corpse
Fell during ascent
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List of Fatalities from 2008 K2 and Broad Peak Dispatch McDonnell was the first Irish person to reach the summit
Above the Bottleneck
Above the Bottleneck
Bottleneck
Below the Bottlekneck
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DEATHS on K2
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[
Martin Schmidt Denali Schmidt Vitaliy Gorelik Fredrik “Frippe” Ericsson Petar Georgiev Unzhiev Michele Fait Dong-Jin Hwang Kyeong-Hyo Park Hyo-Gyung Kim Mehrban Karim Hugues d’Aubarede Gerard McDonnell Pasang Bhote Jumic Bhote Rolf Bae Jahan Baig Dren Mandić Stefano Zavka Nima Nurbu Arkadi Kuvakin Aleksandr Foigt Piotr Kuznetsov Yuri Uteshev Manel de la Mata Dauoud Khadem Asl Sergei Sokolov Aleksandr Gubaev Kyong-Kyu Pae Jae-Young Kim Hwa-Hyeung Lee Klaus-Dieter Grohs Muhammad Iqbal Sher Ajman Young-Do Park Mihai Cioroianu Igor Benkin Lorenzo Mazzoleni Jeff Lakes Bruce Grant Rob Slater Alison Hargreaves Javier Escartin Javier Olivar Lorenzo Ortiz Jordi Anglès Juan Antonio “Atxo” Apellániz Steve Untch Dmitri Ibragim-Zade Aleksandr Parkhomenko Aleksei Kharaldin Daniel Bidner
Reinmar Joswig Peter Mezger Dan Culver Boštjan Kekec Adrián Benítez Hans Bärnthaler Akira Suzuki Dobrosława Miodowicz-Wolf Alfred Imitzer Hannes Wieser Alan Rouse Julie Tullis Muhammed Ali Wojciech Wróż Renato Casarotto Tadeusz Piotrowski Maurice Barrard Liliane Barrard John Smolich Alan Pennington Daniel Lacroix Yukihiro Yanagisawa Halina Krüger-Syrokomska Laskhar Khan Ali, Son of Kazim Nick Estcourt Mario Puchoz Art Gilkey Pasang Kikuli Pasang Kitar Pintso Dudley Wolfe 30 JULY 1939.
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26/27 JULY 2013.
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P . 30 The Art Gilkey memorial cairn at the foot of K2
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B I B L I O G R A P HY Bowley, Graham (2010). No way down : Life and Death on K2 (1st ed.). New York: HarperCollins
Viesturs, Ed; Roberts, David (2009). K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain. New York: Broadway Books Wilkinson, Freddie (2010). One Mountain Thousand Summits: The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2. New York: New America Library Falvey, Pat; Pemba, Gyalje Sherpa (2013). The Summit: How Triumph Turned To Tragedy on K2's Deadliest Days. Dublin: Beyond Endurance Publishing & The O'Brien Press Van Rooijen,Wilco (2010). Surviving K2. : National Geographic
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Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton
CLIMB SAFE