Peugeot Life Magazine Autumn 2015

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PEUGEOT LIFE PEUGEOT LIFE AUTUMN 2015

Style • Living • Design • Travel


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A

Simon Rose

s the newly appointed Divisional Manager for the Peugeot NZ business, it gives me real pleasure to welcome you to the latest edition of Peugeot Life! We literally take you around the world in this issue, with interesting stories for everyone. Features include a glimpse into the future of new Peugeot concept and production vehicles, the ultimate French Style file, mouth-watering Curbside Cuisine of Taiwan and fun family playground holidays in Singapore. It’s been a busy time for Peugeot with the launch of our long-awaited new Peugeot 308 into New Zealand. Having previously been awarded the 2014 European Car of the Year, the new 308 was also adored by the local motoring media and aptly named the AMI Insurance New Zealand Autocar Car of the Year ahead of some stiff competition. The latest 308 comes in both car and wagon formats with a range of new, more powerful yet efficient engines. Available in both petrol and diesel, pricing is competitive, from just $30,990 plus on road costs. We also recently introduced Peugeot scooters to New Zealand. The new scooters are all 50cc and, conveniently, you only need a car licence to ride one. They are very inexpensive to run and are just great fun for riding around the city or at the beach. We have launched with two models, the Kisbee, which starts at $2,199 and the Speedfight which costs from $2,799. The Scooter range is available from all authorised Peugeot centres. Check out our website (www.peugeot.co.nz) to find your nearest dealer. To continue supporting the growth of the brand in New Zealand, we welcome a number of new dealers, including Southern Autos Manukau, Manawatu Peugeot in Palmerston North and Houstons Peugeot in Blenheim. Later this year we will see the arrival of several new Peugeot models, including a strictly limited 208GTi 30th Anniversary edition (of which only three will be coming to New Zealand), the new 308 Gti, featuring a 270hp 1.6-litre turbo petrol engine and, later in the year, a facelift for our current Peugeot 208 model. On behalf of our entire team for the New Zealand importer of Peugeot, we sincerely hope you enjoy this edition of Peugeot Life and we look forward to being of service to you soon. Safe driving! Yours sincerely

Simon Rose Divisional Manager NZ Sime Darby Automobiles NZ Ltd

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So Miss, So Dior


PEUGEOT

LIFE

Peugeot Life magazine is published by Hope Publishing Ltd for Sime Darby Automobiles NZ Ltd, PO Box 74-366, Greenlane, Auckland 1543, New Zealand. Advertising enquiries to: Don Hope +64 9-358 4080, Subeditor – Patrick Smith Creative Director – Mark Llewellyn Printing – McCollams Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of Sime Darby Automobiles NZ Ltd or its agents. All material in Peugeot Life is copyright and cannot be reproduced in any way without the written consent of the Publisher. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the content, the Publisher and Sime Darby Automobiles NZ Ltd accept no liability for any errors.

If this magazine has come to the wrong address or your details need updating, please contact us during business hours​: For Peugeot Eurolease customers (09) 526 8928 or eurolease@peugeot.co.nz For Peugeot customers (09) 258 5144 or Lynn.Espejo@simedarby.co.nz

Contents 08

WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH The Peugeot 2008 DKR completes the brutal Dakar rally in fine form.

12

PEUGEOT CONCEPT CARS Peugeot takes to the show circuit with three ground-breaking concept cars.

18

THE PEUGEOT LINE-UP 2015 The Peugeot range examined in detail

34 35

Peugeot continues to proudly support Cure Kids.

18 20 22 26 28 30 32

– – – – – – –

Peugeot 208 GTi 30th The new Peugeot 208 The new Peugeot 308 The new Peugeot RCZ R Peugeot Partner and Expert vans The Peugeot Crossover Range Peugeot Scooters

MUSIC IN MOTION Peugeot Music is the marque’s brand new online music venture. PEUGEOT AROUND NEW ZEALAND From the Peugeot 308 winning the coveted Car of the Year award to kayaking and the Red Bull Defiance, we bring you an update on local happenings.

www.peugeot.co.nz



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Contents 40

STYLE FILE A gallery of mouthwatering French beauty and decor ideas.

48

DESIGNING THE FUTURE Peugeot Design Lab proves it’s not all about beautiful cars.

50

PEUGEOT CLASSIC COLLECTIONS Classic car photographer, Michael Furman, pays tribute to some glorious Peugeots from the past.

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A EUROPEAN DREAM Kelly and David Oxton take off to Italy and France with Peugeot EuroLease.

58

CURBSIDE CUISINE Mark Llewellyn delves into the diversified food culture in Taiwan.

64

WELCOME BACK TO BURMA Myanmar is opening itself to the world and offers visitors a rich cultural experience.

68

SINGAPORE’S PLAYGROUND Don Hope discovers why Sentosa Island is one of Singapore’s most popular leisure spots.

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Peter Maly 2 – a platform bed that quietly demands attention

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WHEN THE

GOING GETS TOUGH TUNED FOR TORQUE AND RELIABILITY, THE PEUGEOT 2008 DKR COMPLETES THE BRUTAL DAKAR RALLY IN FINE FORM. NOW PEUGEOT SPORT IS LOOKING TO THE 2016 EVENT.

www.peugeot.co.nz


Peugeot Life

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PEUGEOT 2008 DKR

T

he Dakar is one of the most dangerous and demanding motor races in the world: a rally raid that takes competitors over 9000km through extreme South American terrain. Competing for the first time in a quarter of a century, Peugeot brought two of its three entries home free of major technical problems. The Team Total Peugeot 2008 DKR of Stephane Peterhansel and JeanPaul Cottret finished 11th, while the car of Cyril Despres and Gilles Picard was 34th. Peugeot Sport director Bruno Farmin is already preparing for the 2016 race: “Speaking as pure competitors… we cannot be satisfied with the final result. But we were also very aware of the scale of the task ahead, so the principal objective of our first participation was just to gain experience. “When it came to our preparation for this event, we focused exclusively on reliability. All the hard work has paid off.” The 2008 DKR is powered by a V6 twin-turbo diesel engine, mid-mounted, which produces 253KW of power and 800Nm of torque. It can reach 200km/h and carries a 400-litre fuel tank. Much of the route is completely off-road, and for 2015 all competitors had to tackle the notorious Marathon Stages (previously restricted to bikes and quad races), covering two days of racing in which teams cannot call on technical assistance/repair and crews sleep outdoors in bivouacs. Peugeot was, in fact, the first car maker to enter the Dakar event. In 1987, world rally champion Ari Vatanen won at the wheel of the 205 T16 Grand Raid. Peugeot dominated again for the next four years, in both 205 and 405 T16 Grand Raid racers.

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PEUGEOT CONCEPT CARS

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PEUGEOT QUARTZ

P

eugeot is already acknowledged as master of the crossover vehicle. With the Quartz concept car, it takes the concept to new heights, blending the stance of a Sports Utility Vehicle (SUV) with the luxury and athletic driving character of a top-line sedan. Peugeot Quartz Style Manager Matthias Hossann describes the car as “a single block into which an SUV bottom and sedan upper have been carved. Styling reflects the function of each part. The sculpted body and innovative materials pack a punch while ensuring efficiency.” Contrast is all part of the Quartz character. The radical exterior features short overhangs, massive 23-inch wheels and innovative scissor doors. Yet the cabin is designed to provide a sense of warmth and sophistication, with a comprehensive version of the Peugeot i-Cockpit design and a centre console that features basalt – a beautiful material formed when magma is quickly cooled and comes into contact with the elements. Despite the visual drama and high technology, the Quartz is very much grounded in reality. It’s based on Peugeot’s new EMP2 platform, which also underpins the latest 308 production car. The Hybrid plug-in powertrain features fourwheel drive and can run in either road or race modes. For the latter, the powertrain provides maximum power and drives the wheels through limited-slip differentials. The Quartz really can go off-road, too. The suspension can be raised to give ground clearance of up to 350mm, thanks to an optical control system that literally reads the road, using cameras linked to the navigation system.

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PEUGEOT EXALT Peugeot’s Exalt concept is the perfect combination of two key aspects of the brand: forward-thinking athleticism with extreme efficiency. As a concept car, Exalt gives us a glimpse into the future of Peugeot. Underneath the radical lines are a plug-in HYbrid4 powertrain with smart technology that automatically chooses the optimum running mode, while inside the car is a further development of the Peugeot i-Cockpit design philosophy, with a raised instrument panel and innovative arrangement of programmable toggle switches inspired by the world of music and dual touch-screens. This is truly the family sedan of the future. Yet Peugeot has also paid homage to the craftsmanship that has helped define it over the past 125 years. Picking up on the themes of the Onyx concept from 2012, Exalt wears bare steel bodywork that is hand-formed by a master panel beater. Despite its hand-finished nature, the Exalt is highly aerodynamic. Biomimicry is used on the rear bodywork, which is finished in a textile called Shark Skin that creates a grain over the car to assist airflow. Inside, the Newspaper Wood finish literally borrows from the pages of business print publications, while other interior elements are finished in chine – a natural wool-based mixed fabric. While much of the Exalt seems like fantasy, many of its features point toward practical solutions for future production Peugeot models. For example, the tailgate has an ingenious opening mechanism that gives access to the Hybrid-kick electric scooter stowed under the cargo floor.

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Peugeot is continuing to push the boundaries of powertrain efficiency with innovative technologies such as Hybrid Air, a new powertrain which is being demonstrated on a prototype version of the 208. The 208 Hybrid Air 2L is the latest in a long line of Peugeot vehicles that combine a conventional combustion engine with compressed air technology. It’s also a model that takes us tantalisingly close to mainstream production: it’s expected that Peugeot will have Hybrid Air models with similar technology on sale within two years. The “2L” in the name signifies that this car is capable of fuel economy of 2.0 litres per 100km. This is achieved not only by the combination of the PureTech 1.2-litre engine and compressed air power, but also by extensive use of lightweight materials. Over 100kg has been trimmed from the 208 base car with the use of aluminium and carbon composites around the body. The Hybrid Air system comprises a compressed-air tank in the boot, a low-pressure expansion chamber near the rear axle and a hydraulic motor and pump in the engine bay. Compressed air powers many city cars in Europe, so the

technology is well proven. The 208 Hybrid Air 2L can run solely on air in zeroemissions mode, which is ideal for urban driving. It can also run in petrol mode, which is perfect for constant-speed driving on motorways. But it can also shift into combined air-petrol mode during transitional phases of driving, for standing starts or when extra acceleration is required. The compressed-air tank is replenished when slowing down, or by drawing energy from the petrol engine. Either method can recharge the tank to maximum pressure in just 10 seconds.

www.peugeot.co.nz


PEUGEOT 208 HYBRID AIR 2L

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PEUGEOT LINE-UP 2015

PEUGEOT

208

GTi 30th

Peugeot is celebrating thirty years at the head of the hot-hatch genre with a special-edition version of the 208 GTi. It celebrates three decades since the launch of the now-legendary 205 GTi in 1984. The 208 GTi 30th is arguably the most radical car to ever wear the famous badge. It has been specially developed by Peugeot Sport to deliver maximum thrills, with the 1.6-litre turbo engine now delivering 153kW (or a symbolic 208bhp). A limited-slip differential helps deliver the extra power to the ground in tight corners. Compared with the standard GTi, the tracks are wider front and rear and the suspension has been modified for a much sportier feel. The steering and brakes have also been upgraded. From the outside, you are left in no doubt that the 208 GTi 30th is a very special car. The bright chrome finish on the standard car has been replaced by matt black, while extensions have been fitted to the

wheel arches. Inside, there are unique trim elements and Peugeot Sport branding. There’s also a very special colour option for the 208 GTi 30th. It’s called Coupe Franche (which translates as “clean cut”) and combines a textured black finish on the front of the car with high-gloss red on the black. Incredibly, the special colour scheme does not involve the use of decals or wrapping: it’s all paint, perfectly applied. The 208 GTi 30th is the perfect fusion of sheer fun with state-ofthe-art technology. The same can be said of the short film Peugeot has created to celebrate the anniversary: The Legend Returns combines the original 1984 advertisement for the 205 GTi with 3D animation of the new car, in a blockbuster-style car-versus helicopter chase through snowy mountains. With only three of these exclusive models coming to New Zealand, you’d better get in quick.

www.peugeot.co.nz


Peugeot Life

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NEW

PEUGEOT

208 The Peugeot 208 revolutionised the small-car market at launch in 2012, with its fashion-forward styling, innovative technology and groundbreaking cabin design. Now, there’s a new-generation version on the way that ups the ante in every area. The latest 208 features even sportier styling, powertrain enhancements and greatly enhanced comfort and convenience features. Just announced at the prestigious Geneva Motor Show, it will become available in New Zealand late this year. At the front, a new bumper gives the 208 a muscular look. The grille is larger and features a more prominent chrome finish. The headlights on higher-specification versions have a two-tone finish, with black and chrome masks. New alloy wheel designs help distinguish the side profile, while the rear lamps have 3D-effect LED “claws” – a signature Peugeot design motif. Inside, the highly innovative i-Cockpit dashboard continues, with a compact steering wheel, high-set instrument panel and large touch screen. The colourful and intuitive seven-inch screen has been a winning feature for the 208 from the start.

www.peugeot.co.nz


Peugeot Life

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NEW PEUGEOT 308 The Peugeot 308 has arrived in New Zealand with a bootful of awards and an enviable reputation as the most exciting, efficient and accomplished small car on the market today. The 308’s European Car of the Year 2014 win has been well-publicised globally. This is one of the most important Car of the Year awards in the world, with 58 expert jury members awarding it 307 points: 84 points clear of its closest rival. The 308 easily achieved victory over some seemingly tough competition, including premium plug-in electric cars and even a top-end luxury sedan. Closer to home, the 308 has been gathering accolades despite only being launched at the end of 2014. It was judged overall winner in the AMI Insurance New Zealand Autocar Car of the Year, following back-to-back testing with six other contenders by expert judges from the monthly motoring publication. Once again, the 308 beat sports and luxury cars to take out the top prize. The 308 certainly has star credentials on paper

and that should not surprise. It is, after all, the spearhead of a whole new family of models from Peugeot. The number might be the same as the previous model. But this is a brand new car from the ground up, based on the company’s new EMP2 (that’s Efficient Modular Platform) structure and features new construction methods that have increased the car’s strength and durability, while also reducing weight by up to 140kg. Credentials on paper are all very well. But true evidence of excellence can only come from driving the car. Once the 308 has been experienced on local roads, there can be no doubt about its status as a small-car sensation. The 308 is available in a comprehensive range of models, with hatchback and SW body shapes and three different engines. It’s the PureTech 1.2-litre three-cylinder powertrain that garnered the most interest and acclaim from critics and it’s easy to see why. It’s a small-capacity engine for a car of the 308’s size and interior space, yet it boasts staggering power and torque outputs continued …

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www.peugeot.co.nz


given its 1199cc: 96kW/230Nm, easily rivalling much larger four-cylinder engines. Combine that kind of performance with the zest and characterful soundtrack of a three-cylinder powerplant and the 308 PureTech puts a huge smile on your face. The PureTech is available with Peugeot’s slick sixspeed automatic gearbox, a powertrain combination which is capable of 5.2 litres per 100km. But for the ultimate in driving fun and efficiency there’s also a manual-gearbox option, which returns an amazing 4.6 l/100km. The higher-specification 308 models benefit from larger petrol and diesel engines. There’s a 1.6-litre e-THP unit that makes 110kW/240Nm (6.5 l/100km), and of course no new Peugeot range would be complete without the brand’s signature turbo-diesel HDi technology: the 2.0-litre model makes 110kW/370Nm and returns 4.1 l/100km, making it the most economical of the range as well as the most powerful. You’d expect nothing less of a Peugeot diesel. A new platform means new steering and suspension systems for the 308. The result is classic Peugeot ride and handling: the seemingly impossible combination of supple comfort with precise steering and roadholding that the marque is so well known for. The forward-looking design of the 308 is evident as soon as you slide into the driver’s seat. It embraces the Peugeot

i-Cockpit dashboard configuration already previewed on the smaller 208; this represents a radical rethink of cabin design as you know it, with a small steering wheel located lower down to improve safety and improve visibility, and the instruments and major displays raised higher to put them directly in the driver’s line of sight. All 308 models are generously specified, with most versions including a 9.7-inch multifunction touch screen. But the flagship Allure truly takes things to the next level, with a range of equipment that would not be out of place on a luxury sedan. It boasts parking aids front and rear with camera, satellite navigation, electric handbrake and sports seating. Other high-end features available include sumptuous Nappa leather upholstery, on front seats with a massage function. Truly one of life’s little luxuries. The EMP2 platform has enabled Peugeot to break new ground in interior packaging. The 308 not only has generous accommodation front and rear, the hatchback also has the biggest boot in its class: 420 litres, more than many large sedans. For the ultimate in practicality, there is also the 308 SW. The wagon gives away nothing in style and equipment to its hatchback sibling, but adds even more space and practicality: it’s 330mm longer and boasts a cavernous 610 litres of luggage space. The 308 SW is available with either the PureTech 1.2-litre engine or the 1.6-litre turbocharged unit.

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PEUGEOT RCZ R Peugeot’s most exotic-looking model, the RCZ coupé, also becomes its fastest and most exciting to drive in flagship R guise. Inspired by the RCZ Racing Cup circuit car, the RCZ R is the most powerful roadgoing car that Peugeot has ever produced. Virtually every component of its 1.6-litre turbocharged engine has been reworked with high performance in mind and its 199kW output is almost identical to the racing machine. It propels the car to 100km/h in just 5.9 seconds. The RCZ R chassis has also been extensively reworked by Paris-based Peugeot Sport. A Torsen differential is fitted at the front to maximise traction in tight corners and tame the car’s considerable power output when required. The suspension is lower and stiffer than the standard car, making the RCZ R track-capable without sacrificing everyday driving comfort. The unique 19-inch alloys house larger brakes, with red calipers bearing the Peugeot Sport name. Aerodynamic efficiency and high-speed stability have benefitted from changes to the body shape, including a new fixed boot spoiler. The RCZ R’s performance credentials are beyond question: it can lap the legendary Nurburgring circuit in Germany two seconds quicker than the standard RCZ.

www.peugeot.co.nz


Peugeot Life

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PEUGEOT PARTNER & EXPERT

Peugeot’s Partner and Experts vans have proved that light commercial vehicles (LCVs) can still be packed with character. This brace of load-carriers has certainly done its share in brightening up the LCV landscape – not to mention giving Peugeot a burgeoning presence in a very important area of the new-vehicle market in New Zealand. Partner is the entry-level to Peugeot’s local LCV lineup. This $29,990 machine is a clever mix of people and load-carrying capabilities, with three-across seating in the cabin (or you can fold the centre chair down to form a work surface) and generous storage space, which boasts a 2050mm load floor length and 3.7 cubic metres of volume. With the Multiflex front seat folded away, items up to 3250mm long can be carried. The 1.6-litre HDi engine provides amazing fuel efficiency of just 5.5 litres per 100km, while stability control, cruise control and an

MP3-capable audio system ensure driver and passengers enjoy a safe and comfortable ride. The larger $39,990 Expert works even harder, with a 2254mm load floor length and cargo volume of 6.0 cubic metres. Expert also brings genuinely sprightly performance to the van world. It’s powered by a 2.0-litre HDi engine that makes an impressive 120kW/340Nm – enough to keep the front wheel chirping away from the traffic lights when you’re on a deadline. A key element in the Expert package is the availability of Peugeot excellent six-speed automatic transmission, ensuring there’s no van that’s easier to drive or more satisfying in its class. It also features power folding side mirrors, Bluetooth connectivity, on-board computer and even the option of parking radar – surely a boon for a van in the busy city.

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peugeot .co.nz

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PEUGEOT CROSSOVER RANGE

PEUGEOT 2008 / 3008 / 4008 The crossover genre is one of the most important and fastest-growing in the automotive world. These vehicles are an intriguing blend of road-car performance and handling with sports utility vehicle (SUV) styling, space and practicality. For so many customers, a crossover represents the best of both worlds. Peugeot has one of the most comprehensive crossover ranges on the market. The pioneering model is the 3008, a stunning fusion of signature Peugeot design cues with high ride height and outstanding cabin versatility. The 3008 is not only a design leader, but also a technology showcase. You can have a conventional powertrain of course, but the flagship HYbrid4 version features a unique combination of diesel and battery powerplants to create one of the world’s most highly

efficient and innovative hybrids. The most city-friendly in the Peugeot crossover range is the 2008, a wagon that combines a sleek profile with rugged styling detail. The car is light and nimble, yet enormously practical: the loading lip is just 60cm high and the split rear seat folds in a single motion for greater cargocarrying capacity. Meanwhile, the 4008 offers a more traditional SUV-type look – while sacrificing nothing in terms of driving dynamics and interior luxury. The off-road character of the car is emphasised by the vertical grille, prominent wheel arches and sill protectors. However, the 4008 interior still features soft textures and premium colours, with top-quality fabrics and an impressive array of luxury equipment.

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The retro-inspired Peugeot Django scooter.

PEUGEOT

SCOOTERS In Europe, Peugeot is just as well known for its twowheeled machines as it is for its cars. In fact, it’s acknowledged as the world’s longest-running maker of twowheeled motor vehicles: it’s been making motorbikes since 1898 and scooters since 1955. Now, some of that French scooter style is making its way to the southern hemisphere. Peugeot has launched two 50cc air-cooled models, Kisbee and Speedfight, with a further retro-inspired model called Django to follow. Peugeot scooters have the same unmistakable flair as the marque’s passenger cars. The 50cc models can be ridden on a standard car licence, so the new two-wheelers are being marketed side-by-side with their four-wheeled siblings in Peugeot showrooms. Kisbee is the entry-level model, with a 3kW engine and a choice of colours that includes Pearly Black, Icy White and Chocolate. It’s also available as an RS model, in Mad Grey with unique decals and a larger front disc brake. Kisbee prices range from $2199 to $2229. Speedfight is a sportier scooter incarnation, with a 3.2kW engine and more dramatic styling. It comes in Saphir Blue, Dragon Red or Mad Black – all two-tone on white. The ultimate Speedfight is the Peugeot Sport version, with 3.4kW, rear disc brake and adjustable rear suspension. Speedfight prices range from $2799 to $2999.

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N I C I S ON U M TI

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www.peugeotmusic.com


PEUGEOT AROUND NEW ZEALAND

NEW PEUGEOT 308 CAR OF THE YEAR

D

on’t take it from us: New Zealand’s leading motoring writers named the 308 overall winner in the 21st annual Ami Insurance NZ Autocar Car Of The Year Awards, announced in December. After final back-to-back road testing of the six category winners, the Peugeot 308 topped the judging, outpointing the Honda Jazz to take the overall win. Each of the six finalists was assessed out of 100 points on aspects such as design, performance, dynamics, practicality and value. The scoring was weighted so that cars in each category could reasonably

Peugeot Life

be compared with those from another. NZ Autocar editor and chief judge Kyle Cassidy said; “Being European Car of the Year, the 308 had a point to prove, but it won the judges over convincingly. The overall Car of the Year is always the vehicle that scores consistently through the five criteria, meaning it has to be bloody good at everything to fare well. And this the 308 indeed does well. It is a well-conceived and delivered package, one that exceeds your expectations, and is a deserved winner of the 2014 AMI Insurance NZ Autocar Car of the Year award.”

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ACTION

AMBASSADOR Professional kayaker Ben Brown has been chosen as Peugeot Ambassador for 2015. “Global travelling adventure kayaker” is the way Ben describes himself. “I travel the world with my kayak and my friends exploring and paddling the best white-water on the globe, along the way documenting the adventures through the medium of video and still images.” Brownie, as he’s knows to his friends, has made first descents of rivers in nine countries around the world and paddled in more than 30 countries. It’s just the kind of rugged CV needed to carry the flag for Peugeot’s adventurous image and Ben will be generating

videos and pictures inspired by the brand’s “Motion & Emotion” signature. The 36-year-old from Hamilton, who numbers Red Bull, GoPro and Oakley among his sponsors, lists is life philosophy as “Live excessively! Dream big, challenge yourself, explore, enjoy!” He certainly does that. The most emotional moment of his life, he says, was completing the Murchison Falls expedition in northern Uganda: “Five days of avoiding thousands of crocs and hippos whilst negotiating some of the biggest white water on the planet.” Did someone say Motion & Emotion?

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HOW EFFICIENT IS THE NEW PEUGEOT 308? MOTORING WRITER BILL GREEN EMBARKS ON AN EPIC SOUTH ISLAND JOURNEY TO FIND OUT. Thanks to Peugeot, recently my wife and I drove the length of State Highway 1 in the new 308 hatch from Blenheim to Bluff to see just how far we could go on one tank of petrol, 53 litres. Could we get to Bluff and return at least back to Invercargill? The 308 Active model, as driven, sported a ‘Puretech’ 1.2 litre, 3 cylinder putting out 96 kW of power at 5500rpm and impressively producinge 230Nm of torque at 1750rpm. These smaller engines seem to be the way of the future for many manufacturers; small capacity, efficient engines with turbos. Our 308 came with a 6-speed automatic gearbox. Of course safety wise this 2014 European Car of the Year is well equipped. There’s ESP, DSC, ABS with EBA and EBD plus six airbags that include front and rear curtain bags, and it attained a 5-star Euro NCAP rating. The body is 140kg lighter than the model it replaces, but the whole car is stiffer torsionally, and the way the suspension has been set up means that even some of the very rough surfaces endured in parts of Otago were well soaked up. Steering is excellent, too, with the car going where pointed with little effort. The seats were comfy too; I had no stiffness even after four to five hours at the wheel. The five and a half day trip saw us stopping in Rolleston, Dunedin, Invercargill, Oamaru and Kaikoura with plenty of breaks in between. Ashburton, a place we normally just roll through has the most beautiful gardens and a great kid’s play area. About 25 kilometres west of Temuka, close to Pleasant Point where there is an excellent vintage railway, is the Richard Pearse memorial. Oamaru of course has its historic area including ‘Steam Punk’, plus the waterfront has been redeveloped at the south end of the town with a couple of nice restaurants and again a great kid’s play area. In Dunedin, the Octagon is the hub; we really enjoyed just sitting with a coffee and watching the world go by. You know you’re coming into Balclutha because of their mighty concrete bridge. Stirling Point at Bluff is the end of the road, the sign there tells a great story. The road undulates much more the further south you go. Coming

in to Dunedin was a real test for the right foot and the car. The Kilmog and motorway into the city are steep in places and the climbs quite long. South of Dunedin the road rises and falls with regularity, some steep, a good run down the other side helped economy there. After filling initially in Blenheim we didn’t have to look for a pump again until about 10kms south of Balclutha on the way back up the island. Mind you, I had my insurance policy with me in the form of a 10-litre can of fuel. We achieved our goal of equalling or beating Peugeot’s figures for the 308 Active of 5.2l/100km, returning 4.8l/100km on the tank and covering 1,103 kilometres. Our overall score after 1,887 kilometres was 5.1l/100km. I guess it proves that with sensible techniques when driving such as looking well ahead and anticipating, having the tyres correctly inflated, using inertia where able and not overloading, plus using the brakes judiciously, then it is entirely possible to get good fuel economy figures – no matter what the terrain is like. As for the 308 Active, it’s the mid-range car in the three-car 308 line-up. Spec levels are good with 16 inch alloys, front fog lights, LED lighting at the back, rear parking sensors, auto-on lights and wipers, cruise control, Bluetooth capability with USB and a multi-function steering wheel adjustable for rake and reach. One of the really great things is the i-cockpit; everything is well placed and easy to use with great feel, while the 9.7 inch touch screen is easy to see and use. One of the first things you’ll notice when you go for your test drive is the small steering wheel. I took a wee bit of time to adjust to it, but it was great and made it very easy to see the rev counter and speedo both of which are placed high on the dash. Overall then, the Peugeot 308 proved to be a delightful car to tour our beautiful South Island with. As the stunning scenery rolled by, its willing engine provided plenty of power for cruising, yet delivered astonishing fuel economy. It is quiet, well equiped and extremely comfortable even on lengthier journeys. Would I do it again? Absolutely.

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RED BULL

DEFIANCE Peugeot was the key vehicle sponsor at last year’s inaugural Red Bull Defiance, a new and unique race format that combines traditional running, kayak and mountain bike endurance disciplines, mixed with the creative element of target based shooting and rope work over “two brutal days”. The event, held over eight high-country stations in the Wanaka region, was a good fit for Peugeot’s signature “Motion & Emotion” and the perfect setting in which to highlight the brand’s Crossover and SUV range. It was hard to miss the branded 4008 SUVs and Peugeot Expert Vans. Peugeot also sponsored the two-man team of Glen Currie and Jess Simpson. The course was designed by branded Red Bull athlete and World Multi-sport Champion Braden Currie, who raced with Dougal Allan. The pair blitzed the field to take top honours and the $10,000 Open Elite prize, completing the 158km course in 12hr 58m 24s – 34 minutes ahead to the Australian runners-up. The next Red Bull Bull Defiance is set for January 2016.

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DISCOVER MORE: T. +64 9 355 1242 | E. pullmanspa@pullmanauckland.co.nz | W. www.spaatthepullman.co.nz


Style File

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LIGNE ROSET

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hat is it about French style? We don’t always understand it but we are seduced by it. It’s not always clear what a designer intends, symbolically or otherwise, but we are compelled to pay attention nonetheless. Understanding French style is often seen as a hallmark of personal sophistication. Avant-garde, Belle Epoque, Beaux-Arts? Je ne sais quoi! But “style”, as it’s understood in France, is more than a label for an era or school of art, it’s an on-going practice where the making of objects and the making of art are inseparable from one another. The brothers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec were born in the town of Quimper, in Brittany. They studied design and decorative arts separately but for nearly 20 years now they have been a partnership, proving once again that a whole can be greater than the sum of its parts. The brothers no sooner began working together than they were attracting clients such as Giulio Cappellini, of the Milan-based design firm that bears his name, and the legendary Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake. Today, their work can be found among permanent collections at the Pompidou Centre in Paris, the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the Chicago Art Institute. They have achieved such acclaim over the years that the Pompidou Centre in Metz staged the first-ever retrospective of their work. Given their fame, it was probably inevitable they would produce pieces for French furniture makers Ligne Roset, a brand well known in recent years for commissioning the best designers in the world. After all, that is how the brand has sustained its reputation for superior quality and comfort since Antoine Roset and his son, Emile, began producing wood products more than a century ago. Creativity and game-changing innovation has always been a hallmark of Ligne Roset. As if to underscore that, the company has in the last 40 years entered into key collaborations with some of the world’s leading designers to produce furniture collections, decorative accessories and more. Ligne Roset furnishings and accessories are produced under strict quality control, so when you put the world’s leading stylists together with an impeccable manufacturing process you end up with a world-leading brand. Company headquarters remain in Briord, France, and the brand is distributed to 850 stores worldwide. So we thought you’d like to see some of the work produced by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, noting that in New Zealand Ligne Roset is represented by DOMO in Auckland. www.domo.co.nz

PLOUM What makes a settee comfortable? The Bouroullec brothers have answered that question with the Ploum sofa. The Ploum free-form “nest” offers a high level of comfort while allowing the body to adopt a number of possible postures. The small settee accommodates two people and has a closed angle – to encourage folk to sit closer together!

FACET The Facett range is actually two settees and an armchair, complemented by two footrests that can be used as extensions to the seating. Facett’s minimalist simplicity is deceptive: its monolithic form is actually based on a sophisticated production process involving a unique style of stitching – toning (or contrasting), a complex process that recalls the cutting and shaping of a precious stone.

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LIGNE ROSET Known for its collaborations with both established and up-and-coming talents in contemporary design, Ligne Roset offers clients an entire lifestyle in which to live boldly and beautifully via its furniture collections and complimentary decorative accessories, lighting, rugs, textiles and occasional items. Featured here is the Prado sofa by Christian Werner for Ligne Roset. It consists of a large bench seat (available in two sizes) onto which back cushions can be placed at will. The cushions are weighted and come with a non-slip system so do not need to be rested against or attached to any object for support. This versatility means they can be arranged on the floor, perhaps around a low table, while the seat itself can convert to an occasional bed. The collection includes an optional fitted sheet for using this option. Available in New Zealand from the DOMO Luxury Showroom, Auckland. www.domo.co.nz

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DIOR Above left: Dior Gel Coat. Above middle: Dior Cheek & Lip Glow. Above right: Miss Dior Hair Mist. Above, far right: Dior Kingdom of Colours Artistry Palette.

GUERLAIN Above: Guerlain Long Lasting Eyeshadows, Limited Edition. Above right: Guerlain Meteorites compact light-revealing powder. Right: Guerlain Meteorites Perles De Blush Angelic Radiance. Far right: Guerlain Meteorites Baby Glow light-revealing sheer make-up SPF25.

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LOUIS VUITTON Above, left to right: Louis Vuitton Dora Soft Stripes BB bag in calf leather; Lockme MM bag in calf leather; Dora bag in Monogram canvas. Right: Essential V fashion jewellery – necklace and earrings in brass, cuff in brass and palladium. Below: Louis Vuitton Postcard espadrille (left) and wedge sandal, both finished in canvas and Leather.

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DIOR Left: Large Diorama bag in off-white archicannage lambskin. Right: Large Diorama bag in rose poudre smooth calfskin, black and orange tufted cannage, blue embroidered flowers. Sunglasses: Destructured pantos shape with crystal front, silver metal details and blue and silver double mirrored lenses, and with gold and khaki double mirrored lenses. Bottom right: Dior pump made of white hand-knitted elastics with calfskin toe; asymmetric pump of navy and grey hand-knitted elastics with calfskin toe. Bottom left: Tribal earrings in metal with palladium finish and grey resin pearls adorned with smoky grey crystals; Tribal earrings in metal with pink gold finish and pink resin pearls adorned with pink crystals. Left: Be Dior bag in bright yellow soft, shiny calfskin with rose dragĂŠe ostrich details.

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LALIQUE Lalique, makers of the world’s finest crystal home accessories, is a perfect example of French style. Its crystal vases, bowls and general objets d’art have represented the pinnacle of art nouveau decorative arts from the early 20th century since its founder, René Lalique, first began working with glass. Lalique has been around a long time, but only now has the brand opened its first dedicated boutique, at 20 rue de la Paix, in Paris. The ground floor includes 200 pieces from its high jewellery collection and a selection of iconic works such as the Gourmande ring designed by René Lalique in 1931. A second floor, underground, is a more private salon designed to reflect French style as it was in 1900, at the time of the Paris World Exhibition. René Lalique (1860-1945) described his work as Art de Vivre or “the art of living”. Ever since then Lalique crystal has been distinguished by its clear, satin-crystal glass that’s commonly juxtaposed with vibrant colours fluid and illuminating in a way that intentionally blurs the boundary between lifestyle and inventive exhibition. The new Paris boutique pays tribute to René Lalique’s original approach as inspired by the art nouveau and art deco periods in French design. For example, the Oran and Flamme vases are based on the original vases he created but re-imagined in stunning midnight blue and amber. As if he were in some way unhappy with the work, the Flamme – clear crystal and hand-applied black enamel – has seldom been seen in public and is available now only in a numbered limited edition. If the opening of its first boutique was not enough for one year, Lalique has also staged a four-city launch of Crystal Architecture, a new collection created by the award-winning Iraqi-British architect, Dame Zaha Hadid. Zaha Hadid is the first woman to win the coveted Pritzker Architecture Prize. For more than 30 years she has been a leading figure in design research, creating new and innovative work that’s produced critically acclaimed exhibitions at the Guggenheim Museum in New York, the Design Museum in London and the Palazzo della Ragione in Padua, Italy. When asked what Lalique meant to her, she replied: “Lalique is synonymous with elegant, fluid designs that are innovative and timeless yet do not compromise the integrity of the medium or the craftsmanship of its production. Each piece is a true celebration of the unique properties of crystal.” Launched in Paris, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Manila, Hadid’s collection features vases and bowls in midnight blue. They are so beautiful they ought to be equally understood as crystal sculpture – the finest French crystal addressing the interplay of object and art. The apex of French style. The new Paris boutique and a new collection created by one of Europe’s leading designers was more than enough to attract our attention. So we thought you might want to see some of the work yourself. Lalique is sold in New Zealand at Cavit & Co in Auckland and Queenstown. www.cavitco.com

VASES, BOWLS AND SCULPTURE The Fantasia vase, Nemours bowl, Twig vase and Fish sculpture are fine examples of Lalique’s use of midnight-blue crystal.

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G IN

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S ED IT A S U C AS FO NO AND H B A A GN L ONARY PI TCHES. I S E D EOT EVOLUTI AND WA G U E 12, P FROM A R RNITURE 0 2 N U I HED RYTHING ELLERY, F C N U S LA ON EVE YS, JEW A W T TO NTS EI SINC IVE TALE R TO ART T A CREA PEDAL C K SLEE

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With over 200 years of industrial experience and 120 years of automotive innovation, the global brand design studio was set up to make its experience and know-how available to other brands – with brilliant results, as we can see on these pages. Recent design/brand projects include the ONYX sofa, made from carbon fibre and Volvic volcanic lava stone – the first piece in a custom furniture collection – and the beautiful and complex Pecqueur Conceptuals concept watch. Says Peugeot styling director Gilles Vidal: “Peugeot is one of the rare brands in the world able to claim 200 years of industrial creativity. Since its beginnings, Peugeot has designed and manufactured thousands of objects, whether for domestic, daily uses, or to provide mobility – objects for the kitchen, tools, bicycles, motorcycles, cars… all of which are evidence of our multi-faceted industrial know-how and our ability to use new forms to aid function.” With the technical and design resources of its three studios, in Paris, Shanghai and Sao Paolo, Peugeot Design Lab is able to develop “the most complex or simple products anywhere in the world”.

www.peugeotdesignlab.com/en


Opposite page: ONYX sofa, made from carbon fibre and Volvic volcanic lava stone. Above: Peugeot Design Lab has created the visual identity for Pecquer Conceptuals, a brand that aims to develop innovative luxury concepts, starting with a new horlogical movement and the design of the first product, a concept watch. Right: The Peugeot Foodtruck was designed by Peugeot Design Lab and dubbed Le Bistrot du Lion. It includes areas for food preparation, dining for up to 30 patrons and even a DJ booth which showcases music from Peugeotmusic.com

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PEUGEOT

CLASSIC

COLLECTIONS

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Classic car photographer Michael Furman pays tribute to one of world’s most revered marques with his images from two great American collections.

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professional photgrapher for more than four decades, Michael Furman turned his attention to cars some 32 years ago and has been immortalising the world’s most beautiful and important classic cars in exquisite photographs for 23 years. He’s a man who balances the artistic aspects of his photography with a practical edge: appreciating the finer details of a rare automobile is one thing, managing location and the realities of moving priceless vehicles is quite another. More often than not, Furman takes his skills and equipment to the cars, rather than the other way around. Being so close to car collections in situ provides even more inspiration. He has become intimate with life in the 1920s and 1930s in

his work photographing the cars of the Mullin Automotive Museum on Oxnard, California. The museum focuses on French design of the period: automotive marques housed there include Delage, Delahaye, Hispano Suiza, Talbot-Lago, Voisin, Bugatti and, of course, Peugeot. Furman has worked with the museum’s collection for three separate books, the most recent being Vitesse-Elegance: French Expression of Flight and Motion. His beautiful images of the 302DS Cabriolet (before and after restoration) and the Eclipse 402BL from this are featured on these pages. The third car shown here is the Peugeot Darl’mat 402 Coupé, which is owned by another American collector and has also been displayed in various museum exhibitions. www.michaelfurman.com

1937 Peugeot 302 DS Darl’mat Cabriolet Shown before restoration (above left) and after a complete re-build (below), this handsome cabriolet is one of just 32 that were made with the assistance of Peugeot’s French concessionaire Emile Darl’mat.

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1937 Peugeot 402 DS Darl’mat Coupé This limited line of roadsters, coupés and cabriolets gave Peugeot the sporting image they desperately needed to compete with their French rivals Bugatti, Delahaye, Delage and Talbot-Lago. Its 2-litre engine provided enough power to be competitive in the smaller displacement racing classes against Adler, Aston Martin and Frazer-Nash.

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1937 Peugeot Eclipse 402BL We think of the fully-retracting hardtop as a modern creation, but in fact this ingenious design by Georges Paulin first showed this concept in the 1930s. It also demonstrated a clean interpretation of the streamlined design that was sweeping the automotive world during the mid-1930s.

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E

arly last year my wife rang me as I was on the way home from a race meeting and said, “I have been invited to go to Rome.” I assumed it would be a lady friend or relation wanting to do the “Italian dream”. But no, it was our younger globetrotting son who had planned to be in Croatia mid-year and said to his mother, “How about you show me Rome?” She didn’t need a second invitation – we had lost two good mates over the previous summer, so “you don’t know what’s around the corner” kicked in and before I knew it the flights were booked. A month or more on the computer searching, comparing and rating all sorts of places through Italy and France kept her busy. The end result: an adventure itinerary of which our son and I had little forward knowledge. My contribution to the planning and organisation of the holiday was dead simple. I was in charge of booking the car – dead easy and done in a couple of days. A good mate from Kerikeri said he had done a Peugeot EuroLease and that I should look at that. We did, and it was the perfect choice. Our plan was to spend a few days in Rome, collect the car and drive north through Tuscany, up along the coast to the south of France, then through the middle of France to Paris, where we’d have a few days without a car before flying out. We collected our Peugeot EuroLease vehicle after a wonderful time exploring the great city of Rome. We had a neat little apartment by the Turtle Fountain off the Argentine Square. It was so central and we were right at home walking to the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain and dining at one of the multitude of Italian eateries that we just loved. Every night turned out to be a “special night”. After brief instructions on how to operate the car

and the GPS, we loaded up our brand-new silver Peugeot 508SW diesel station wagon, filled up with 90 euros-worth of diesel (good for 1,000 kilometres, the dashboard info told us) and we were off to Castellina via the town of Assisi. Our base for a week was a villa which was nestled in the hills, overlooking beautiful countryside. From here we would make our day trips to Florence, Sienna, Greve and Assisi, again in between resting up and taking our siestas like the locals. We enjoyed some more great meals out, and some equally good meals at “home” making use of the local produce. We attended wonderful little town festivals – a real highlight during the summer period. You buy a glass and a ticket as you enter the town, then go from stall to stall sampling the local wine and food, with music playing in the background. It was great fun and the week flew by. Next, we were off to Castelnuova, near Sienna, staying in an apartment in a vineyard for a few days. Then on to the walled town of Lucca via another walled town, San Gimignano, sitting high in the hills and very touristy. We also paid a visit to the stadium Andrea Bocelli calls “Teatro del Silenzio” where he holds an annual concert on the doorstep of his home town of Lajatico. Luckily, we came upon a giant billboard, still standing a month after his concert, with a little arrow at the bottom that we followed for 10km into the hills – and there it was in the middle of nowhere: awesome! Lucca was my favourite little town, with its cobblestone pathways like a maze and where we enjoyed yet another special night out. Not your everyday tourist destination, but great fun. Our son ran around the top of the wall that surrounds the town. I walked it. After three enjoyable days in Lucca we were back in

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A EUROPEAN DREAM

A FAMILY ADVENTURE THROUGH ITALY AND FRANCE – WITH JUST THE ODD “SPECIAL NIGHT”. BY DAVID OXTON

Opposite page: Siena, like Assisi and Florence, was a day trip from Kelly and David’s villa in the Tuscan hills. For David, the EuroLease Peugeot 508SW proved to be the perfect car for a road trip from Rome to Paris via the delights of Tuscany and the South of France.

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the Peugeot and on the way to the Cinque Terre – a collection of five fishing villages perched along the cliffs just north of La Spezia. We parked the car at La Spezia and took a pleasant ferry trip along the coastline past the five villages, then took a quick train to Riomaggiore, our village for the night. It was yet another different and magical destination, where rooms seemingly grew on top of each other, each painted a different colour. The next day we continued on to Santa Margherita and a funny little old private hotel its 78-year-old owner ran with an iron hand – very Fawlty Towers. More great day trips, markets and beach visits. No late nights here though, or, as our host warned, “I will lock you out!” Next, we took a ferry to Portofino – a flash little place where if you aren’t rich and famous you are looking to see who is. Then we headed for Saint Raphael via Monaco and Nice. In Monaco I got some “me” time and walked the Grand Prix track, soaking up the atmosphere. It was truly special. “Come on, no time to waste,” I was told, “we want to see Nice.” So off we went, arriving later that evening at a lovely resort in Saint Raphael just in time for a quick swim. Two days later we moved on to the more arty, old and picturesque town of Uzes. Yet another night time festival and more lovely “special nights” out! One in particular was at a monastery with its own wine

cellar and restaurant. We enjoyed the meal and Kelly discovered a new favourite: wild boar. Imagine the look on her face when a dozen or so hairy baby wild pigs ran around us at the pay desk waiting to get scraps from the kitchen! After three days in Uzes, with day trips to Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other typically French townships, we were on the home straight heading through the Loire Valley towards Paris. Kelly’s last big surprise for us was a night in a genuine château in Noth, near Toulouse. We followed this with a night in Le Mans, home to the classic 24-hour race and a museum filled with 100 years of motorsport history. Magnifique! No festival here, but a wonderful coloured light show on the walls of the cathedral finished off a great day. Finally it was time to head for Paris where, via a visit to Monet’s Gardens, we returned our Peugeot EuroLease. One final special night in the Latin Quarter called time on our wonderful adventure – one we will always remember. We slept in some very diverse bedrooms, had lots of laughs, saw some true wonders and were humbled by the history and magnificence of the places where people have walked and worked for over 2,000 years. Au Revoir. And thanks, Peugeot EuroLease, we loved our transport – trouble free, economical and well organised.

Clockwise from top left: Peugeot race car in the Le Mans motorsport museum dedicated to the 24-hour race; view over Monaco from the surrounding hills; Monet’s Garden, Paris; Kelly and David in Rome, with St Peters Basilica in the background.

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PEUGEOT ORIGINAL PARTS Uncompromising quality, innovative design and precise engineering. We’re speaking of course, about this Peugeot Pepper Grinder. That’s where it all began in 1874 and we’re proud to return to our culinary roots as principle sponsor of Metro Peugeot Restaurant of the Year 2015. Through ambition and refinement, the cogs in this humble pepper grinder became the range of Peugeot vehicles you know and love today.


CURBSIDE CUISINE E

at everything” should be the rule of thumb for all visitors to Taiwan. Or at least for those who are keen to explore the island’s diverse food culture. It’s what the Taiwanese do – and it’s what tourists should do as well. Taiwan’s culture is as diverse as its food. During its turbulent history, Taiwan has been governed by Portugal, Holland and Japan. Immigrants from the southern Chinese provinces of Zhangzhou, Quanzhou and Hakka have been a part of Taiwanese history since the beginning and, in 1949, Chiang Kai-Shek’s defeated Republic of China government retreated here, bringing tens of thousands of Chinese immigrants with it. Add these various cultural and culinary influences to those of the native aboriginal Taiwanese and you have the explosion of flavours that makes up Taiwan’s food and because it is an island, seafood has a major role to play. Locals have a love of food that is quite epic. For generations, they have been practising the habit of eating little and often – something Western nutritionists are only now starting to get their heads around. Good food is everywhere, 24 hours a day and it is impossible to go hungry. Even the ubiquitous 7-Eleven stores, which are literally on every street corner (some 2,600 of them throughout the island) will sell you noodles or eggs stewed in soy at any hour. And food stalls line every street, selling freshly cooked meals from early morning until late at night. But go to the night markets if you want to really get the lowdown on Taiwanese street food. Found in every city in Taiwan, they start to come alive at around 5pm and continue till well past midnight. Where night markets in most other

MANY PEOPLE REGARD THE STREET FOOD OF TAIWAN AS THE BEST IN SOUTHEAST ASIA. Words and photos by Mark Llewellyn.

Asian countries do food to accompany shopping, in Taiwan it is the other way round; food first, shops second. And I like that. Taipei has around five major night markets, each specialising in something a little different. Shilin is easily the largest and best known. Easy to get to via the efficient MRT system, it is a must-see for visitors, and is a great place to start discovering the real Taiwanese street food. Wander around, amidst the noisy, happy crowds, and soak up the sights, sounds and aromas. Virtually every stand under the vast roof of this open-sided arena is cooking something interesting. Barbecues are laden with sausages, corn, squid or pork, and everywhere are bubbling cauldrons of soup with noodles. Most of the stalls are quite basic – some stools, a couple of tables, a tank of gas for the burner and a barbecue, a pot, or a steamer for cooking. Your olfactory senses will get the biggest workout as you walk past the many stinky tofu stalls. Cho dofu, as it’s known, is one of the national favourites and is actually marinated, fermented tofu, usually braised or deep-fried and served with a special chilli sauce and preserved vegetables. Acrid, sharp and pungent, the smell is, frankly, shocking. But don’t let this put you off, because the finished dish is absolutely delicious and not at all smelly. The preserved vegetables add a contrasting crispness to the tofu and the chilli sauce is the perfect foil to the flavour. I can understand why it’s so popular – 23 million Taiwanese can’t be wrong – and it became one of my staples, too. Many of Taiwan’s dishes are noodle-based and quite souplike. For example – and here is another national treasure – beef noodle soup, flavoured with garlic, ginger and star anise,

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Street markets in Taipei are a riot of colour, noise, smells and great tastes. Fresh fruit and vegetables are grown locally.

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is savoury and satisfying. Variations on this theme abound, with pork, tofu and cuttlefish versions always on offer. Street food is safe to eat because it is all freshly prepared and turnover is very high. While much of it is recognisable, quite a lot isn’t, and it appeared to me there were a lot of unidentifiable dishes being eaten. Take courage, though, as it is all reputed to be good for various parts of the body, soul or mind: it will make you brainier; prevent heart-attacks; aid digestion and stomach ailments; or even make you more virile. In fairness, though, the Chinese have been aware of the benefits of food for thousands of years. But forget all that, because the important thing is that it tastes good. It’s cheap too – most dishes will set you back somewhere between $2 and $4. Yes, some of the street food does come from the lesserknown end of the food spectrum: entrails, wings, knuckles, feet, tongues and blood jelly are common. During my nightmarket travels, I was constantly confronted with the unknown. But adopting a brave when-in-Taipei-do-what-thelocals-do attitude, I chomped my way through many, many good dishes which I may otherwise have missed out on. For example, four spirits soup is a tasty, clear consomme made from barley, seeds and chicken intestines. Delicious, with a homely chicken broth flavour to it, and it’s good for my digestion, too. Who could ask for better? But street food isn’t all about the unusual. Who can resist salted crispy chicken, crunchy and golden? Or steamed dumplings? Or one of the many varieties of congee – a type of rice soup, thick and satisfying? And you must try another of my favourites – minced pork with rice and stewed eggs, redolent with the tang of five-spice, cinnamon and garlic. The all-time favourite for locals and visitors has to be the famous Orh lua, or oyster omelette. Plump oysters are first

fried on a hot plate, eggs and a flour batter are added and then fresh lettuce. It’s served with spring onion and a sweet chilli sauce and is just superb. If you are feeling more adventurous, take a taxi to the Hua Xi night market, otherwise known as Snake Alley. This really is home to the unusual and, as the name implies, it’s where you will get the chance to try snake. Once upon a time, snakes were selected live from glass tanks, slaughtered in front of a gasping crowd of onlookers and then taken away, cooked and brought back to the diners. These days, however, things are whole lot more civilised and the killing is done discreetly out of sight. Partly out of interest and partly for the sake of research, I had to try something here and so I ordered the NT$250 (around $11 ) special. For my money, I got a bowl of snake soup – a largely tasteless, clear broth with four pieces of white snake meat in it – and a tray of shot glasses with colourful liquids in them. Now, some people might tell you snake meat tastes like chicken, but I disagree because I identified a more fishy flavour. The shot glasses were altogether more interesting, containing blood, venom, bile and a couple of unidentifiable ones. The common flavour, though, was alcohol, because minute portions of snake juice are mulled with a massive amount of rice wine. Still, it was entirely palatable – most probably because of the wine – and I left there a little wobbly but pleased, at least, that I’d given it a try. If you fancy some time away from Taipei, don’t worry about starving – street food is everywhere. I checked out the famous Keelong night markets, about 35 minutes by train north of Taipei city. They were as busy as ever, and if anything, people there were even friendlier than they had been in Taipei. I didn’t see many other white faces there, and many local people would smile and say hello. The food,

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Taiwanese food takes its inspiration from all over Southeast Asia and convincingly adds local influence and ingreadients. Visitors will take delight sampling delicious dishes, from simple barbequed prawns through to local favourites such as beef noodle soup.

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me reasoned that no one was about to deliberately kill a foreign journalist. Nevertheless, as I cautiously tried the soup, the shop owners started to laugh and the joke became obvious. It turned out that this species of blowfish, although related to fugu, isn’t so lethal after all. And predictably enough, it tasted wonderful. It takes a certain sense of adventure to experience Taipei street food properly. Sometimes you have to point and gesture, and sometimes you just blindly try something because it’s there. But do make sure you try Taiwanese curbside cuisine, because you’ll absolutely love it.

meanwhile, was spectacular. Here I discovered a famous Taiwanese delicacy: pineapple cakes, a short pastry cake filled with pineapple jelly. If you visit Keelong, take the time to visit the geopark, just a few kilometres west at the quaint fishing village of Yeliou. Here, in this beautiful coastal environment, you’ll see limestone structures that have been naturally eroded into remarkable shapes: mushrooms, candle wicks, stem ginger, a hippopotamus and, most famous of all, the Queens Head. It’s worth strolling around Yeliou because you’ll get a glimpse of a different and altogether more peaceful Taiwan. Tranquil and quiet it may be, but you still won’t go hungry. Fish shops and cafés line the lanes, their outdoor tanks filled with the morning’s catch. I selected some prawns and a couple of crabs at one of the cafés and moments later I was seated inside, dunking freshly cooked prawns into a gingerand-vinegar dipping sauce and relishing every bite. It was here that I was offered blowfish, or fugu, you know the one, that most poisonous of fish which the Japanese famously eat as a sort of challenge. The owners of the shop must have taken some delight watching my face as they pulled two from a tank and started butchering them – and not too surgically in my opinion. Most of the fish was discarded and what remained was quickly cooked up in a delicate broth. I’m not going to pretend I wasn’t a just a tiny bit nervous as I prepared myself to sample it, although part of

Where to stay In what is possibly the finest location in Taipei City, in Xinyi district, beneath the towering Tapei 101, sits the Grand Hyatt Taipei. Newly refurbished at a cost of US$100 million, the hotel offers up 853 new rooms and suites, each finished to the highest standard. Guest rooms are toned in muted greys with natural wood accents and reflect extraordinarily good taste. Mine had a stunning view of Taipei 101, a constant reminder of the splendour of one of the most beautiful buildings anywhere in the world. Uniquely, The Grand Club, occupying two upper floors, is an exclusive, boutique hotel within the hotel. Guests there enjoy personalised service and have access to the Grand Club Lounge, which serves complimentary breakfast, all-day tea and coffee and evening cocktails. There are no fewer than 10 restaurants and bars scatterred throughout the Grand Hyatt Taipei. High tea is served every afternoon in the Chia Lounge, while in the Pearl Liang Restaurant master chefs prepare all manner of dim sum dishes as well as the freshest seafood, taking advantage of Taiwan’s incredible ocean bounty. My favourite dining spot had to be Irodori, a buffet-style Japanese restaurant where elaborate and authentic dishes are prepared in an open kitchen before your eyes. Mountains of large crabs sit next to king prawns, tempura and sushi. It’s hardly street food, I know, but it’s still good value. The Grand Hyatt Taipei, then, is a superb hotel and a restful haven to return to after your days and nights exploring all that this lovely city has to offer. www.taipei.grand.hyatt.com

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Photos: Grand Hyatt Taipei

Opposite page; Japanese dishes are common at night markets. Above: The Grand Hyatt Taipei, next door to Taipei 101. Below, clockwise from top left: The open kitchen at Irodori; from the lobby to every guest room, the decor has been exquisitely tailored in the hotel’s $100 million refurbishment.

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Above: Once considered the Harrods of colonial Burma, the store of Rowe & Co is now in gentle decay. Below, left to right: Paying respect at Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon; Magnificent Shwe San Daw pagoda, Prome. Opposite page: Young Buddhist nuns, Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon.

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WELCOME

BACK TO BURMA

TODAY’S MYANMAR IS OPENING ITSELF TO THE WORLD AND WELCOMING VISITORS TO A LAND RICH IN HISTORY AND CULTURE. WORDS AND PHOTOS BY TRICIA WELSH.

“M

ing-ala-ba.” It’s probably the first word you’ll hear on arrival in Myanmar. Meaning simply “hello”, this general term of greeting is a good ice-breaker and locals will appreciate your efforts in trying to communicate. Formerly Burma, this beautiful, peaceful, unspoilt “Golden Land” boasts an ancient culture, friendly people, a strong textile and handicraft tradition and a plethora of Buddhist festivals. It has changed little since it was a British colonial outpost. For the past few decades, the country’s controversial military regime has polarized westerners debating whether or not to visit, but the second release from house arrest of the hugely popular Aung San Suu Kyi, on November 13 2010, has seen a budding tourism industry slowly emerge. For most visitors, their starting point is Yangon, formerly Rangoon. This fascinating city is reflective of a country in transition, with the picturesque decay of gracious old colonial buildings remaining beside new multi-story structures. Some gems have been restored, but for the most part they are ghosts of an earlier, prosperous era when the country was the wealthiest in the region. In the city, sarong-wearing Yangonites rub shoulders with others in western clothing, while small, family-run shops and markets still exist alongside a growing handful of airconditioned shopping centres. Ten years ago, there was a distinct lack of traffic, with mostly vintage cars on the roads, as imports were tightly restricted. According to locals, import permits were issued “only to Government personnel and their cronies, one permit

per vehicle commanding up to US$100,000 at its peak”. Cars appreciated with age, as did bicycles, and were seen as a form of investment along with gold and gems. Under the new 2011 Thien Sein Government, restrictions have been lifted and today the city boasts new car showrooms and even traffic jams. The Government is trying to keep up with this change with constant road works and city flyovers. Visitors can still appreciate the “Old Yangon” on a train ride through the more traditional city areas or by taking a local 20-minute ferry ride from opposite the venerable Strand Hotel, to witness river life and commuters from poorer outlying areas travelling back home at the end of the day. The beating heart of Buddhist Burma is arguably the 107-metre-high golden stupa of Shwedagon Pagoda in central Yangon. Believed to be 2,500 years old, the stupa is surrounded by myriad others and various elaborate buildings. It was here that Aung San Suu Kyi addressed the Burmese people after her first release from house arrest in 1995. To feel the excitement of optimism in the air, go for Friday-night drinks in one of the new popular spots such as the Union Bar and Grill and Gecko or the iconic bar at The Strand – once the Happy Hour hangout of wealthy Burmese business owners and older expats with United Nations or Non-Government Organization backgrounds. Today’s players are young 20-somethings and “repats” – young Burmese, educated and trained abroad, who have returned to take advantage of the country opening up. Other attractions in Yangon include the National Museum, with its intriguing collection of artefacts from the last kingdom, including the 8m-high Lion Throne, the 70m-long reclining Chauk-htat-gyi Buddha, local tea shops serving

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Monks collecting alms, Mandalay

lapae yea – black tea sweetened with condensed milk and sugar – Bogyoke Aung San Market (for good souvenirs, local crafts and beautiful fabrics) and the night market in Chinatown around 19th Street. Accommodation here is the best in the country: the still gracious colonial icon, The Strand, where the likes of Rudyard Kipling, George Orwell and Somerset Maugham once stayed; the Governor’s Residence, a boutique hotel offering refurbished colonial teak luxury; and the very comfortable Chatrium Hotel, with its welcome pool set amid an established garden. From October to March there are festivals each month and it’s the best place to sample the national dish, mohingar – a fish-based noodle soup traditionally served for breakfast. Elsewhere, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake and Ngapali Beach are popular destinations, although tourist infrastructure can be basic, with good three- to four-star accommodation. Most visitors fly between each destination or cruise between Mandalay and Bagan and further south to Prome. Cruising in Burma is the fastest-growing sector of the tourism push and each year more vessels ply the waters of the great Ayeyarwady. The Irrawaddy Flotilla Company (IFC) boasted the largest inland fleet in the world in the 1860s, with more than 600 vessels and the river has always been the lifeblood of the country. Pandaw Cruises, operated by the IFC, was the first to start such cruises in Burma in 1995 with just one teak and polished brass colonial-style vessel; this year it will have nine. Other established cruise options include the Belmond Road to Mandalay and its new smaller vessel, Orcealla. Since much of Burmese life revolves around the river –

fishing, farming, potteries and transport – cruising is the ideal way to experience the country. Pottery villages such as Ngwe Nyein, where villagers handshape and mould their famous 50-gallon water pots, and Yandabo, a small rural village specialising in pot making, are exercises in community cooperation and industry. Their production and precision skills are outstanding and they proudly send their products around the country. In Mandalay, the Mahamuni Pagoda and the Shwe-in-bin teak monastery, considered one of the most beautiful in Mandalay, are worth visiting before perhaps exploring the ancient capitals of Ava, with its exquisite intricately carved teak Bagaya Kyaung monastery and Amarapura, with its brick Me Nu Oak-kyaung monastery. A highlight is watching the sun set over the 1.2km-long stilt U Bein Bridge over Taungthaman Lake, where monks, cyclists and pedestrians cross, silhouetted against a fiery sky. Bagan, the site of the first Burmese kingdom, with its 3,000-plus Buddhist temples built between the 11th and 13th centuries, is one of Myanmar’s top attractions. You can visit some of the temples on land, but an early morning flight with Balloons over Bagan is an awesome way to appreciate the enormity of the 174 sq km Bagan Archaeological Zone. Fly in and out of Heho, in the centre of the country, to visit Inle Lake, where local Pao fishermen power their boats with one foot around floating villages and gardens. While here, sample Shan food – likened to northern Thai fare, and considered the best regional cuisine in the country. The writer was hosted by Pandaw Cruises and assisted by Bangkok Airways and Balloons over Bagan.

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Clockwise from top: Ox and carts are still used in, Myanmar; Early morning flight with Balloons over Bagan; Pandaw ships are very colonial in style; sunset on the Irrawaddy.

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Views from the recently refurbished cable car ensure the short hop from Singapore to Sentosa Island is as much of an event as it is a mode of transport.

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SINGAPORE’S PLAYGROUND DON HOPE RETURNS TO SENTOSA ISLAND TO SEE WHY IT HAS BECOME ONE OF THE CITY STATE’S MOST POPULAR LEISURE DESTINATIONS.

T

he cable car lunged forward before regaining its balance and dropping from the covered confines of the Mount Faber Station. Within seconds we were swinging, however gently, high above the Singapore River. I confess I was feeling a little unnerved: it had been some time since I’d last reached Sentosa Island in this way. Driving over the short causeway is the most common route to Sentosa from downtown Singapore. But I decided to take the cable car because it had undergone a relatively recent $36 million upgrade. I was curious to see what that meant. What it meant was a new fleet of 67 metallic-black and chrome cabins, larger panoramic windows, flip-up seats for eight people in each car and an interactive touch-screen information system in eight languages. I had read about a new VIP bejewelled car decked out with leather chairs, a Swarovski crystal deck and a wine cooler (for an extended dinner party in the sky, I guess) but my tight itinerary prevented me from giving it a go. Maybe next time. Singapore is a common transit point for New Zealanders and Australians heading to Europe, but in recent years, with its collections of festivals, new hotels and some of the best restaurants in Asia, it has become a destination in and of itself. Sentosa Island has contributed to that. More than 20 million people visit Sentosa every year to enjoy its wide range of activities, which include theme parks, spas, water sports, seaside restaurants and cafés and a collection of resort hotels. Sentosa’s Palawan Beach is one of the best family beaches in Asia and Sentosa Golf Club boasts a world-class championship course. There’s a new marine park, brilliant shopping and among the new developments at Sentosa Cove, Universal Studios, plus, for a thrilling arrival or departure, the cable car. My car pulled to a stop and the door swung open on Sentosa at the Imbiah Lookout, from where I took a few minutes to check out the island from atop the Tiger Sky Tower. But my tour guide was waiting, so I soon moved on to my first stop: the ONE 15 Marina Club, a resort-style marina that berths megayachts and other craft at a waterfront bedecked with restaurants and bars, a spa and fitness

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centre and a new hotel. The overall impression is of a Singaporean response to Monte Carlo. After brief stops at the Tanjong Beach Club and the SEA Aquarium, I checked into the W Singapore Sentosa Cove hotel. The Tanjong Beach Club is like a surf club, although there’s little if any surfing done there. But it was created by two surfing brothers who wanted to bring beach culture as they’d experienced it elsewhere in the world, home to Singapore. And from the look of things, international travellers and locals alike were enjoying its restaurants and bars when not whiling away the day on the beach in one of the club’s deckchairs or giant cabanas. The club is especially popular for brunch on weekends. Meanwhile, the SEA Aquarium is part of a more extensive Marine Life Park – home, I read to “more than 100,000 marine animals from over 800 different species”. Adventure Cove Waterpark, the Whirlpool Washout, Tidal Twister and Shark Encounter are just a few of the activities here that I thought to come back to one day, albeit with my grand children. For now I was happy enough to stand back and watch others enjoying the fun before checking in to the W. W Hotels are part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts Worldwide. There are 44 of them around the world and they’ve been making a splash in recent years for their contemporary designs and exotic locations. They are popular with people in the fashion and entertainment industry because they’re glamorous and stylish. So I was curious to see a W property for myself. W Singapore Sentosa Cove, as it’s officially known, is a multi-billion-dollar development covering 117 hectares at one end of the island. It features luxury residences (“Singapore’s only truly oceanfront residences” according to the blurb) along with a marina and the hotel. The W Singapore Sentosa Cove welcomes guests with a colourful waterfall backlit in a way that reflects the tropical floral patterns found throughout the hotel and in its 240 guest rooms and suites. Like any five-star hotel, W prides itself on great service – in this case its “24-hour Whatever/ Whenever” that can include anything from hiring a private chef for a cooking lesson at three o’clock in the morning to staging a personal fashion show in your room. The boast is

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being able to deliver on any request, anywhere, anytime “as long as it’s legal”. SKIRT is the hotel grill, specialising in the finest cuts of meat and the freshest seafood. Blackmore Australian Wagyu and Maine lobster were two items on the menu I took note of. “Flown in all the way from Maine in the USA?” I asked. “That’s why it’s called Maine lobster,” came the cheeky reply. I was offered a tasting at the whisky bar attached to the restaurant but after a long, hot day exploring Sentosa I kept it simple and settled for a cold beer. The next morning I enjoyed breakfast at The Kitchen Table, the hotel’s second restaurant, unique for its collection of live cooking stations where chefs will offer you a sample taste of whatever concoction they are working on at the time. At any time of day, hotel guests can enjoy a choice of menus that range from Western-style bacon and eggs and burgers to wood-fired pizzas, seafood, dim sum, selections from a Japanese noodle bar and fresh chilled oysters. I read that one of the restaurant’s signature evening dishes was “Herb crusted John Dory fillet with maple roasted Callan duck and seared scallops and grilled Gruyere cheese.”

I did not get a chance to try that particular dish because I had pre-booked a table at Sabio By The Sea, a grill and tapas bar at Sentosa Cove recommended to me by a colleague who lives locally. Sabio By The Sea was inspired by Sabio, a very popular tapas bar on Duxton Hill I knew when I lived in Singapore some time ago. Perhaps because of its location, Sabio By The Sea felt more relaxed than its inner-city sibling. Its outdoor seating looks onto the marina and the yachts. For my part, I spent some time studying the menu before settling on five tapas: Esparrago (grilled asparagus with Serrano ham and soft egg), El Pulpo (grilled octopus leg with ‘Viola’ mashed potatoes), El Cerdo (herb-marinated pork shoulder with sautéed potatoes), La Carne (300g of grilled ribeye with salsa de tomate picante and grilled pimentos) and for dessert, Churros (Spanish fried doughnut served with chocolate sauce). The next day I hopped aboard the free shuttle that makes regular runs around the island. Sentosa is not a big island – about 500 hectares altogether – so it doesn’t take long to get a feel for what’s there. I circled the island on the shuttle but

Opposite page: Marine Life Park offers family fun for all ages from spills and thrills on Adventure Cove’s Riptide Rocket to marine education at the S. E. A. Aquarium to some beach relaxation at Bluewater Bay. Above, left to right: The W Hotel Sentosa Cove welcomes guests with a spectacular LED display, while (below) SKIRT, the hotel grill, serves up a sumptuous selection of beef and seafood dishes.

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saw people getting about on Segways and rollerblades and still others riding about on good old-fashioned push-bikes. A quad ski lift carries people from one point to another, high above other folk racing down the Skyline Luge. Universal Studios was in full swing, people lining up to enter the Disney-like Adventureland. At one point the shuttle passed beneath the MegaZip, the flying fox-like cable ride from the top of one peak down to a beach. Sentosa was once a quiet beach retreat from a full-on week in the city. It still has its quiet spots today but the number of tourist activities has grown exponentially. And while they were not things I personally was keen on, they are hugely popular with families, and rightfully so. And there’s more to come. The Sentosa Development Corporation and Merlin Entertainments (“the world’s second biggest operator of high-quality visitor attractions”) have formed a partnership to bring the ever-popular Madame Tussaud’s wax museum to Singapore for the first time. Heading back to the city by taxi, I glimpsed the Sentosa Golf Club, where I had played and where the annual Barclays Singapore Open, Asia’s richest professional tournament, is held. In my opinion It’s one of the best courses in Asia and I hope to play there again when I have more time. But for now I was satisfied that my original hunch proved to be true: Sentosa Island has come a long way in recent years and now plays a big part in Singapore becoming much more than a mere transit stop on the way to somewhere else. Clockwise from above right: ESPA Onsen-style Pool at Resorts World Sentosa; the Maritime Experiential Museum; character meet and greet – Woody Woodpecker at Universal Studios Singapore; unique view from the 5th hole at Sentosa Golf Club.

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