Mount Baker Experience Summer 2013 by Point Roberts Press

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST | SUMMER 2013

GOING DEEP

Diving the Salish

MUSIC HIGHWAY Summer music festivals on 542

DROPPING IN

First descents of Klahanie Falls

CLIMBING MT. BAKER

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

You can do it!

SPECIAL PUBLICATION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

i kNoW What You’ll do

this summer MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

summer2013 34

IN THIS ISSUE: CONTENTS 05

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

PHOTO GALLERY

LAND

FROM BALI TO BAKER

THERE WILL BE MUD

HIKING THE HIDDEN LAKE PEAKS

CRAGGING AT MT. ERIE

BELLINGHAM MOUNTAIN BIKING

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP): IAN FERGUSON, BARB ROY, KEVIN MENARD, NEIL SCHULMAN

GEAR

WHAT’S IN YOUR FIRST AID KIT?

SUMMER GEAR GUIDE

TRANSITION: GLOBALLY KNOWN

WATER

BOWRON LAKES: A CANOE JOURNEY

GOING DEEP: DIVING THE SALISH

PADDLING THE SKAGIT

FISHING AT BAKER LAKE

ENLIVEN YOUR KAYAK PHOTOGRAPHY

FIRST DESCENT OF KLAHANIE FALLS

LOCAL WHITEWATER

CULTURE MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE PUBLISHERS Patrick Grubb and Louise Mugar DESIGN Ruth Lauman EDITORIAL Ian Ferguson, Brandy Kiger ADVERTISING DESIGN Ruth Lauman, Doug De Visser ADVERTISING SALES Molly Ernst, Judy Fjellman, Janet McCall OFFICE MANAGER Amy Weaver COPY EDITOR Kara Furr CONTRIBUTORS Carl Buchanan, Mike Carey, Tim Chandonnet, Dave Church, Gloria Cropper, Jay Goodrich, Grant Gunderson, Jason Hummel, Aubrey Laurence, Rhys Logan, Susan Madsen, Jason Martin, Kevin Menard, Janet Oakley, Eric Parker, Barb Roy, Neil Schulman, John Scurlock, Tait Trautman

REGIONAL FARMERS MARKETS

EVENTS

EATS AND SLEEPS

GOOD BREWS

JOIN THE CLUB

THE CCC LEGACY

MUSIC FESTIVALS ON 542

CONNECT WITH US: facebook.com/mtbakerexperience

twitter.com/mb_experience

pinterest.com/mtbakerexp

mountbakerexperience.com/blog

EMAIL: info@mountbakerexperience.com

WEB: mountbakerexperience.com

If you can see Mt. Baker, you’re part of the experience. Mount Baker Experience is a quarterly recreation magazine for and about the Mt. Baker area, published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings, Waterside and area maps. Vol. XXVII, No. 3. Printed in Canada.

ABOUT THE COVER Tom Murphy and Brandis Graves hike in the Stimpson Nature Reserve. Photo: Grant Gunderson grantgunderson.com

NEXT EDITION: FALL 2013 | ADS DUE: FRIDAY, AUGUST 2, 2013

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

PUBLISHER’S NOTE BY PAT GRUBB

ay back in 1987, Al and Nickee Magnusson founded the Mount Baker Experience. A career journalist, the idea had been percolating in Al’s mind for a long time. His father, John Kenyon Magnusson, was a timber cruiser and was one of a small band of men who participated in the race from Bellingham to the top of Mt. Baker and back on August 9, 1911. It was this race, the precursor to Ski to Sea, that was memorialized in the documentary The Mountain Runners. His father came in third despite having the fastest ascent and descent of the mountain – it was getting to and from the mountain that was his downfall. In Al’s mind, the mountain represented many things but, above all, it was the wide range of experiences made possible for people of all ages and abilities. Their new publication, the Mount Baker Experience, would let people know about the recreational possibilities on and around Mt. Baker. Since buying the publication in 1999, we have continued to uphold Al and Nickee’s goal. In fact, we have gone further afield to explore many of the outdoor adventures and pursuits that can be found in our part of the Pacific Northwest. Our motto is: If you can see Mt. Baker, you are part of the experience. In May, we will be one of the sponsors of the Ski to Sea race, which is totally appropriate given the magazine’s connection to the very first race back in 1911. Please come by our booth at the finish line and say hello (we even have entered our very own team this year). In this issue, we have tried to cover activities that should appeal to a range of interests. Kayaking, scuba diving, photography, gear reviews and much more. There is even a fascinating article about climbing Mt. Baker. (OK, maybe not so fascinating – I wrote it.) A couple of final notes … Keep checking mountbakerexperience.com as we are putting the final touches on a totally new website. Our aim is to become the hub of all things Mt. Baker and with the help of our readers and contributors, we will. Please feel free to submit feedback on what you would like to see included and we will do our best to accommodate you. Finally, we would like to introduce Shuksan, official puppy of the Mount Baker Experience. He is an Australian Shepherd and this photo was taken during his recent first experience with snow. Like the rest of us, he loved it. Come say hello to him at our booth.

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R E K A B O T I L A B FROM T GRUBB STORY AND PHOTOS BY PA

wo years ago, I had the good fortune to spend nearly a month in Bali. The Balinese are a deeply spiritual people whose religion is a syncretism of Hinduism, Buddhism and Animism. They believe the sea is the source of many evil spirits and the further one is away from the sea, the safer one is. The mountains in the center of the island are considered the most sacred places of all. Personally, I think they’ve got it backwards given that their ‘mountains’ are volcanoes, which spew flames, ash and lava at distressingly frequent intervals. And let’s not talk about earthquakes, one of which I experienced on my visit. Bali got me thinking. Out my windows at home in Point Roberts, Mt. Baker looms over the landscape. I see the same view out my office window in Blaine, and I’m not alone – on a clear day, Mt. Baker can be seen from Tacoma, the Olympic Peninsula, the San Juan and Gulf islands, Vancouver Island, greater Vancouver and much of the Fraser Valley. In all, a few million people can see our own volcano on any reasonably clear day. And while present day inhabitants don’t ascribe a spiritual meaning to the mountain, it still must have some kind of psychological impact on all of us. How can we gaze upon this massive, glacier-covered presence without feeling just a little insignificant in terms of geological time and size? It was time, I concluded, to climb Mt. Baker. There are a few organizations and guide companies that offer Mt. Baker climbs. One of the best and most well-known is the American Alpine Institute (AAI). Among other trips, it has Mt. Baker Skills and Climb courses that are offered from May to September. What follows is a description of that climb, actually two climbs, and how readers can also stand on top of the Pacific Northwest. But first, a little history. Most people know that Captain George Vancouver named the mountain after his third lieutenant Joseph Baker during Vancouver’s 1792 exploration of the Pacific Coast aboard the ship Discovery. For many centuries before that, it was called Koma Kulshan by Native Americans. Koma Kulshan means Great White Watcher. There is a lovely account of how Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker and the Nooksack and Skagit rivers came into being that involved a handsome young man named Kulshan and his two wives, the comely and jealous Duh-hwahk and the less comely but open-hearted Whahtkway. Intrigue, hubris, regret and geological transformation play heavy parts in this native account, which can be found in the Skagit River Journal (a link can be found on the MBE website). The first man in recorded history to climb Mt. Baker was Edmund Coleman who made two attempts in 1866. He was forced to turn back the first time after natives refused to let him cross the Skagit River. He made it to within a few

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

hundred feet of the summit on his second try that year but turned back after encountering a dangerous cornice with weather rapidly turning treacherous. Two years later, he returned with two other climbers and reached the top at 4 p.m. on August 17, 1868. Today, most late summer climbers strive to reach the top by early to mid-morning to avoid falling ice on the descent.

WHO CAN CLIMB:

As long as you’re in good shape with recent hiking experience, you can. I strongly recommend you take a guided trip for at least your first climb. AAI offers a number of trips but their beginner skills and climb trip up the classic Coleman/ Deming glacier route is your best bet. Although you’ll be roped in, wearing crampons and armed with an ice axe, you won’t be doing any technical climbing.

THE GEAR:

AAI provides climbers with an equipment list well before the climb. Should you show up with everything on the list, you’d need to hire sherpas to get you and your gear up the mountain. In fact, the only thing that will be the least bit light will be your wallet; speaking of which, AAI recommends that you leave your valuables in safekeeping at their office in Bellingham. Before leaving for the trailhead, your guides will do a gear check to make sure you have everything you’ll need and nothing you won’t. Although you’ll be sleeping on the glacier and traveling at night, it’s a mistake to take or wear too much clothing, at least in the summertime. While climbing I wore a shell jacket and a synthetic long sleeve t-shirt and I was plenty warm. It’s only when you take a rest stop or arrive at the top in windy conditions that you’ll need to put on something warmer. Go by what the guide tells you and the conditions on the day you climb. There will be one piece of essential apparatus that will be new to you. It comes under the heading, Leave No Trace. What this means is, what you bring in, you must bring out. This includes the food that you have consumed, if you get my drift. In order to do this, you will use what appears to be a plastic garbage bag that has three ‘arms,’ two of which you tie around your waist while the other one comes up between your legs to join them. You’ll probably want to drop your pants down beforehand. Tip: It’s windy up there so make sure the bag is downwind. It’ll fill up like a spinnaker (from the wind hopefully) but that’s way better than the upwind results. Don’t worry – you’re going to love this.

THE DEPARTURE:

up to Glacier. There will be a stop in Maple Falls and one at the ranger station in Glacier. These will be your last opportunities to use Western civilization’s crowning achievement: flush toilets. Just up the highway, the van will take a sharp right and you’re on the way to the Heliotrope trailhead. Anyone who has been in a ‘crummy’ on a logging road will feel a sense of deja vu – it’s bumpy.

THE TRAIL IN:

After a final gear check and a minute to put on your gaiters, you’re off. Ahead of you is a moderately strenuous hike that will take a few hours depending on the group and everyone’s fitness level. It’s hard to decipher what AAI’s fitness requirements actually mean. When they say beginner, they are referring to climbing skills only. When they say you should have hiking experience, they mean you should be in good shape, able to walk a rough trail carrying a reasonably heavy pack for a few hours and not have a heart attack while doing it. (If you lie, it’s ok. The waiver you sign frees them from any liability. Joke.) Don’t under-estimate the need for recent hiking experience – I spent a few weeks with a pack full of five one-gallon water jugs (about 40 pounds) walking up steep hills and trails and I came just shy of a myocardial infarct. Mind you, I was carrying a 55-pound pack on a hot August day but that’s no excuse. For my second climb, I upped my backpacking plus multiple times I did what I previously swore I would never do – the Grouse Grind. (Google it if you don’t know about it.) All the same, the hike is pretty good until you get to the last stretch – Hog’s Back Ridge. It’s aptly named; this looserocked, steeply pitched, razor of a trail is a real pig. One step up, two steps sliding back. You wanna know how bad it is? Well, when we came down it heading home my mind had

PHOTO: GLORIA CROPPER

Climbing Mt. Baker |

Sometime around 9 a.m., you’ll hop in the van and head

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

sThe summit in sight.

s Pumice Ridge.

sealed it away with all my other bad memories and I totally forgot how bad it felt. When I told my guide this, he said “What? This just about destroyed you. How could you have forgotten?” Jerk. All the same, as you ascend, you are rewarded with expanses of alpine flowers and the growing promise of the now-looming summit. Like you care.

ness and personal life. I have fallen in love with the mountains and I know that is where I want to be. I solo summited Mt. Saint Helens just six days later. I have added CrossFit training to my regimen to make sure I’m physically prepared to summit Mt. Rainier in July. I plan to climb Mt. Adams in August 2013 with three other female mountaineers. Mt. Baker will always be that first mountain that scared me but taught me to dig deep within myself.” Good for her. Me, I’m thinking about a kayak trip in the Sea of Cortez. Reasonably flat, no crevasses and the boat carries the weight. But Mt. Baker – would I do it again? Sure, with my daughter or son, I suppose. Am I glad I did it? Absolutely. Would I recommend it to other people? Yes. I think anyone who is physically, emotionally and financially capable who lives in sight of Mt. Baker should do it at least once in their life. To stand on top of that cinder hill at the summit of Mt. Baker and to look around the horizon is a feeling and an accomplishment that you will never, ever forget.

ON THE GLACIER:

That evening and most of the next day will be spent getting the basics down. Climbers’ knots, carabiners, climbing harness, rope, crampons and ice axe will all be explained to you before getting out on the glacier to practice. You will learn multiple ways to self-arrest – on your front, on your back, head-first, feet-first. You need to know this in case you slip or someone else does and starts to pull you with them. On the way down, another group’s guide fell into a crevasse and this training came in handy for those attached to him.

THE CLIMB:

You’ll be ready for bed after the second day. First, you make yourself dinner, get your gear ready and watch the sun go down. You’ll probably be in your sleeping bag and looking through the flap to see it. After everything quiets down, you’ll start to hear the glacier talking to you. Constantly sliding downhill to a melted oblivion, it doesn’t go silently. It’s pretty cool, actually. It’s 2 a.m. and now, after a few hours of fitful sleep, you’re fully awake. Man, it’s cold. Boil some water for tea or coffee, eat breakfast, get dressed and get on out there. What time you leave depends on the size of the group you’re with. On my first climb, there were two groups of five and it took until just after 3 a.m. to get going. On my second climb, it was just my guide and me and we were ready to go pretty damn quick. All roped in, guide in front, and off you go. Each climber will be separated from the climber in front and the one behind by about 15 to 20 feet of rope. Any alerts will be passed from climber to climber as voices only carry so far. ‘Crevasse ahead, pass it on,’ someone says. What do you mean, crevasse? There in front of you in the darkness is a crevasse that

s Justin Wood at the foot of the Roman Wall. you will jump in turn. And on you trudge upwards, headlight illuminating your space, with the stars and the moon shining brightly. Depending on the steepness of the slope you’re traversing, you’ll be planting your ice axe (in your uphill hand) as a third leg as you go. Some climbers use a trekking pole to balance. Generally you’ll climb for about an hour between rest stops. The snacks come out along with fleece sweaters, as you’ll rapidly cool down. Sometime between 8 and 9 a.m. you’ll arrive at Pumice Ridge. Early in the season, it will still be covered by snow. Later in summer, you’ll be walking a steep shale-ridden trail that switches back and forth until you want to scream. At each switchback, you have to step over the rope to keep it on your uphill side. While you’re doing this, the person in front of you is going merrily along and gives you a nice tug just when you’re balancing on one leg. The crampons that felt so secure while in the snow don’t feel that way on loose scree. On my second climb, the guide suggested taking them off and it made all of the difference. You take your final rest at the foot of the Roman Wall. “Holy smokes,” is what you’ll say to yourself after looking up at the next stretch. “Am I actually going to go up that?” Yup. Depending on the guide and the size of your group, you’ll either go pretty much straight up or you’ll do long back and forth traverses. The latter is far easier as the straight up route eventually reaches a pitch where you need your ice ax and feet to climb. The wall is nearly 1,000 feet high, with a 35 to 45 degree pitch of snow and ice. In another hour or so you’ll reach the top of the wall and, off in the distance about ¼ mile away is the actual summit. A lazy stroll ensues. The summit itself is a cinder hill, free of snow, at least in August and September. From here, it feels like you’re at the top of the world. You’re tired, it’s cold and windy but you’ve made it to the summit of Mt. Baker. How did it feel to one of our group? Seattle resident Gloria Cropper had this to say: “I feel like summiting Mt. Baker opened up a whole new dimension. The confidence I gained on Mt. Baker isn’t just limited to the outdoors; it has transferred over into my busi-

A FEW FINAL TIPS

Weight – Go as light as you can. My pack on my second trip was 25 lbs. lighter and it made a huge difference. I carried a lighter tent, less clothes and fewer supplies. Food – Make sure you do a taste test of your food before your trip. I left behind all of the freeze-dried dinners and carried nothing but energy bars and Ramen (Ramen was a mistake – read on). You need to keep up your energy level but you more than likely won’t have a huge appetite. The energy bars were tasty and did the job. Hydration – Under no circumstances should you bring Ramen on this trip. The sodium content was so high I was constantly thirsty the night and day of my climb. We had camped below the Black Buttes above the snow line and needed to melt snow for our CamelBaks. I left with two liters of water but I ran out just before the Roman Wall. I was reduced to actually licking up muddy melt water ¼ inch deep at the bottom of Pumice Ridge while my guide mused about where climbers tend to take a leak. I would fill the full three liters next time. Thanks to American Alpine Institute and my guides Everett Chamberlain, Justin Wood and Chad Cochrane. You’re in good hands with these people.

SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

PHOTOS COURTESY OF WHATCOM EVENTS

THERE WILL BE MUD BY JASON D. MARTIN

’m not huge on running, but I’ve always been adventurous – mountain climbing, backcountry skiing and exploring odd places. A friend of mine suggested I might enjoy a mud race. Mud races – or mud runs – are a form of adventure race. They tend to be 5K endeavors on rural obstacle courses. Racers usually have to climb over challenges like cargo nets or slick walls shaped like a half-pipe, slide under logs or squirm through pipes. In all of these events, there is one universal truth:

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There will be mud. Early last fall, our whole family participated in the Dirty Farm Trek, a mud race put on by Bellingham’s VZ Foundation at the Deming Log Show Grounds. The 5K was composed of several challenging obstacles, but it also included a trivia component and required participants to carry an egg the distance of the course without breaking it. It was a fantastic first experience in mud running, and not too physically demanding. It was clear that any athletic person could participate in a 5K mud race like this. The Dirty Farm Trek will not take place in 2013 due to logistical issues. The Muds to Suds race, hosted by Whatcom Events, will be held August 24 and 25 at Hovander Homestead Park, a preserved farm from the early 1900s with more than 350 acres of land along the Nooksack River in Ferndale. The race will include more than 22 spectator-friendly obstacles and seven major mud pits, attract up to 3,400 participants and will have tons of fun activities surrounding the main event, like an option to camp, beer and root-beer gardens, a costume HE T contest, a bonfire and a barbeque. LOW L “The soil conditions at Hovander O F are like Hershey’s syrup and people are going to get dirty,” said log Pete Coy, president of Whatcom b / m .co e Events. “These races are a chance c ien per x for adults to act like kids, with E er Bak t their kids. ” n u Mo The Muds to Suds race will have heats specifically designed for children ages eight and older, but kids Award Winning Lagers & Ales will also be able to run with their Fresh Locavore Menu parents if they want to. Not just for

E B M

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families, the race is open to individuals and teams as well. Regardless of how they run, racers are encouraged to dress up in costumes. “There are three or four national circuits,” said Mel Monkelis, executive director of Whatcom Events. “They bring in people from the outside and run their events. We wanted to do something that kept everything local.” It’s no surprise that the county behind the creation of Ski to Sea, Bellingham Traverse, and Dirty Dan Piano Race is hosting an event like Muds to Suds. Events like this feel like Whatcom County. We have a population that thrives on off-the-wall competitions and “keeping it local.” Adult entries in Muds to Suds are only $35, compared to $85 and up at some of the national mud runs. Another benefit of keeping it local at Muds to Suds is that spectators can walk to any obstacle and watch friends and family as they take on the muddy challenges. Certainly, there are other mud runs in the Pacific Northwest this summer. Most of them are focused around the Seattle area, though there is a large event up in Whistler. The big boys of the national circuits are the Warrior Dash, the Spartan Race and the Tough Mudder. Many would argue that the Tough Mudder is the most difficult of all the mud runs. Participants run nearly 13 miles and deal with obstacles that include everything from live wires that will shock you as you move past them, to pools of ice water, to a 100-foot long stretch of monkey bars over water. All of the races have a team focus, with a goal of building camaraderie among participants. But the circuit races often tout the fact that the courses were designed by the military and that the obstacles are extremely difficult. The big mud races require participants to put a great deal of time and energy into training. On the other hand, 5K local events provide a perfect place to experiment with mud races and to have fun. They provide user-friendly obstacles, generally allow children and are community oriented. Before attending the Dirty Farm Trek, my wife was concerned that she wasn’t up for a mud race. After I reminded her that she runs faster than me, she finally decided to participate. At the end of the race, I couldn’t wait to do another one … and neither could she. We both expect to get very dirty at the Muds to Suds event this summer. X Jason Martin is a professional mountain guide and a freelance writer.

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A RACE FOR THE KIDS course takes kids on a 1-mile run through Salmon Woods, a 1.5-mile mountain bike around Civic and Geri Fields and through a .5-mile obstacle course. They will finish up with a .25-mile Team Trek to the finish line where they will be greeted with ribbons and ice cream for their efforts. The race can be run solo, tandem or as part of a relay team. A percentage of the proceeds from this year’s Traverse will go to Whatcom Family YMCA, the event’s designated beneficiary. Kids ages 6 to 14 are eligible to participate and parents can sign them up at recreationnorthwest. org. Entry fees for the Chinook (solo) division are $25, for the Coho (tandem) division are $45 and for the Chum (relay team) division are $60. For more information, visit recreation northwest.com X

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Celebrating the life cycle of wild salmon and the natural and urban challenges of their journey is an annual event for hundreds of people who come together to race in the Bellingham Traverse and raise money for local charities. But, now it’s time for the kids to have a turn. Many already tag along with their parents on the main race, but the newly designed Bellingham Kids Traverse that will be held on Saturday, June 29 is a chance for them to show off all on their own. “The course has been created so that an 11-year-old can finish it on his or her own,” said Recreation Northwest director Todd Elsworth. “We have so many active kids in town that we wanted them to be able to have the same fun experience the adults have.” Beginning at Bellingham’s Civic Field, the

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WHAT’S IN YOUR

FIRST AID KIT? 1- Large 3- Topping Pizza

BY IAN FERGUSON

s the American Alpine Institute’s manager of equipment services and a professional guide with over a decade of experience, Richard Riquelme has seen his share of wilderness emergencies. “In the backcountry, you have to keep in mind that your goal is not really to fix anything; it’s to stabilize,” Riquelme explained. “Control the situation and slow the deterioration until the injured person can get to more advanced health care such as a hospital.” Riquelme’s advice was to focus your kit on the types of problems you’re likely to encounter on your trip. He added that using the gear you already have saves weight (tent poles and backpack straps can be used to make a splint, for example). The most important component of any first aid kit is your own brain, and the benefits of a course in wilderness first aid can’t be overstated. Here are some first aid suggestions for adventures in the Mt. Baker area, but keep in mind that the lists are not comprehensive and should be tailored to meet the needs of your group and your intended outing.

HIKING/BACKPACKING

• Adhesive bandages in assorted sizes • Butterfly closures • Sterile pads (feminine pads are best) • Athletic tape • Gauze roll • ACE bandage • Irrigation/suction syringe • Tweezers • Flexible splint (SAM splint) • Trauma scissors

• Moleskin • Safety pins • Antiseptic • Antibiotic ointment • Thermometer • Antihistamines • Hydrocortisone cream • Ibuprofen/aspirin • Diarrhea medication • Oral rehydration salts • Aloe Vera (for burns) • Water treatment tablets • Wilderness first aid booklet

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Most of the same pieces from above still apply, but here are some extra ski-specific first aid items:

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Read their stories at www.whatcom.ctc.edu/iamwhatcom SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

BOWRON LAKES STORY AND PHOTOS BY JASON HUMMEL

laces have their sounds. They travel wherever you go. When an owl hoots, memories of desert canyons above Death Valley are awakened. When honking horns blare, flashbacks of my adventures in the streets of Peruvian towns enter my thoughts. Or now, after eight days on the Bowron Lakes circuit in British Columbia, the great northern loon’s bone-chilling haunting wail will forever bring my thoughts back to the ten lakes, five rivers and 116 kilometers of dipping paddles, gurgling canoe bow waves and magical wilderness views we encountered on the iconic Bowron Lakes canoe circuit. July 26 “The car goes where the eyes go,” according to Enzo, the dog in the book “The Art of Racing in the Rain.” The same can be said for portaging a canoe. After attaining permits purchased months beforehand, having our canoes weighed and gear inspected, we began our adventure with a portage. I’d never before portaged a canoe. What appeared easy was made more difficult with massive packs that caused us to curse gravity with each knee-creaking, shoulder-crushing step. Restrictions on what could be carried in the canoes meant that most of our gear was on our backs. While a fastidious person could whittle it down to the necessities and carry nothing, we could be accused of no such attempts. Our loads were gigantic. Feet grinding into the dirt, Juya and I hauled our canoe with all of our strength past the ranger station and eventually to the first water at Kiblee Lake. Once on the downhill, our canoe wheels allowed us to easily roll down to the water. Of course, that is only if the wheels didn’t come off or become crooked and steer the entire load off the trail into the forest. Did I mention the mud? Gliding. That’s what I think of when canoeing. The first lake was very small so we glided across it in moments. The other side was the beginning of another portage that brought a quick end to our gliding. Slipping out of the canoes, we rushed to sort all the gear, tie on the wheels and heave-ho the entire load up the mud-laden trail, earlier dosed in heavy rains. Add in the blood-sucking bugs that ate our faces, necks, and feet (with a promise to finish the rest of us later) and you have a recipe for adventure. The water was our escape. From the instant our canoes were in the water, this time on Indian Point Lake, the bugs were left behind. With the view so pristine and the air so fresh, you could taste the wilderness surrounding us, from snow capped mountaintops to the forested hills. With our canoes bumping into each other, we sat in the middle of that second lake and watched a rainbow arc across the water through squalls of rain and dark clouds. Looking at Juya, I said, “This is just how I imagined it.” July 27-28 My nephew Calin is going to grow up to be a fishing guide,

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

no doubt about it! On Isaac Lake, after another muddy portage, Calin was fishing from the center of his parents’ canoe. Somehow I imagined that this was the best trip of his life. He gets to fish all day long. Of the entire circuit, Isaac Lake is considered the best place to fish, but I’m sure Calin already knew that. Rising wind and waves convinced us to move ashore and find camp. We ended up paddling back to a shelter

July 29 After paddling 30 kilometers up Isaac Lake, I am convinced that hiking the same distance is easier. But when the cold rain finally stopped and the sun came out, all our weariness dissipated. Juya and I stopped before the end of the lake and bathed in the sunrays. With our sun hats pulled down around our brows, there was no reason to rush. Once ashore, while the kids caught toads, the adults pitched camp, filtered water and prepared dinner. The daily duties were becoming second nature. Many of the same people with whom we’d been leapfrogging up the lake were there as well. While the adults traded stories and discussed their adventures so far, the kids let the toads go free and settled down to a game of ‘go fish.’

CAMP LIFE HAS ITS CHARMS.

at Wolverine Creek where we would spend the next two days. Highlights included paddle carving. This is where one carves a miniature paddle and hangs it from the rafters of the shelter. From the many that were strung up, I could guess it was a Bowron Lakes tradition. Juya and I wrote our names and the date and drew mountains, fish, hearts and stars, then colored them all before cutting some string and hanging ours in the rafters with all the others. I even added a short poem: Rain and bugs, dripping and slapping, a cry and hugs, canoeing and paddling. Another highlight was our first moose sighting. If you don’t already know, moose are the largest members of the deer family. They can stand over seven feet at the shoulders and weigh over a thousand pounds! The sound of a bull moose shaking his mane helps you realize how big and strong these animals really are. While simply seeing one is exciting, watching one prance right past our camp was a treat. That night we went to sleep to the sound of thunder and flash of lightning. The ever-present pitter-patter of rain on the tents added more sounds. Although I’m all right falling asleep to rain, the deepening puddle beneath our tent wasn’t all right. I commented to Juya, “So how do you like our new waterbed?” We were out moving the tent a short time later, but even more rain made the effort seem fruitless.

July 30 From the rangers and books, you will hear a lot about the Chute and Roller Coaster, two rapids on the Isaac River. Although broken canoes line the waterway, there really isn’t much to worry about. As a former Class V kayaker, moving water was an appreciated change of pace and not just for me. Everyone loved it! There are signs that mark the portage routes. One huge sign pictured a canoe going over a waterfall. It warned, “Danger: Waterfall ahead.” Indeed, there were waterfalls ahead. We used to have a test in kayaking called the ‘spit test.’ If you couldn’t spit, you portaged. I know that no one would’ve passed the ‘spit test’ here! The drops were boulder-riddled, sieve-infested and log-choked rapids that would inspire nightmares. Leaving the Isaac River, the portage route brought us to McLeary Lake. Along the lush green shore, a moose waded through the marsh grass, pulling up tufts of it every 30 seconds or so. She’d look around at us before diving her head back down into the murky lake waters. Fifteen minutes later, while paddling away from the moose, a mother duck and her trailing chicks forced us to back paddle our canoes. You never know when you might come up to a crosswalk for ducks! A meandering river continued after McLeary Lake, eventually bending into Lanezi Lake. From the shores of this latter lake, in every direction thick pine trees suffocated the shores, increasingly thinning toward snowbound mountain tops. Between rain squalls, we pitched tents, prepared food and fetched water as we settled down … again! … into a “rain sleep.” The pitter-patter of droplets was familiar by then. July 31 Despite the rain, we were constantly treated to a visual feast on the route between fog-shrouded peaks from which dozens of streams flowed. From loaded canoes, we pushed off into the cool morning air. Rain squalls followed us through half the morning. They continued across Sandy Lake and into the Caribou River. By that point skies were clearing. Had

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the sun we had been hoping for finally arrived? Our next camp after a short day of canoeing was Unna Lake. After making a big fire, everyone jumped in their canoes. Across the lake was a trail that leads to 75-foot-high Caribou Falls. As one of the few trails in the entire park (the lack of which on the circuit was a huge disappointment for us), we wanted to be sure to enjoy it. The trail made for a wonderful run, but seeing the falls induced a tree-hugging, drunkwith-fear sensation. The ground literally shook under our feet. Another run back to the canoes put us all in position to witness the best sunset of the entire trip. There was no hurry now. We didn’t paddle or say much until Juya motioned and said, “A rainbow!” It was a moment to breathe in and hold onto as long as we could. There’s not a much better way we could’ve ended our sixth day. August 1 “Ah, the Sun,” we sighed the next morning. It was the first day we didn’t wake up to rain and the last day we’d have to portage. Most importantly, though, it was Juya and my first year anniversary. Nestled in my bags were earrings and a matching pendant I’d been attempting to hide from her for the past week. After reaching camp some hours later, a few minutes before everyone else, I surprised her with the gift. I found the perfect place on a narrow spit of land set between Spectacle and Swan Lakes. It was only a few feet wide and offered views across both lakes and into the forests and mountains beyond. Once I had given my present to her, as she put the jewelry on, her smile became as bright as their sparkles. “Happy anniversary, Juya.” Since I love photography, Juya gave me a signed copy of a photography book on the Bowron Lakes. It was a perfect gift. August 2 From my journal I read, “There is just the splash of water, drip, drip, drip and repeat.” Canoe life takes a certain amount of patience, a doctrine that incorporates hours of wandering thoughts and nature gazing. Entertainment is like a slowly brewing tea, at times taking days to percolate before it is ready. Perhaps some of us realized our joy by the last day as we crossed Swan and Bowron lakes to arrive back at the beginning. Even if the rain had drenched us throughout our eight days, there were still moments of bliss. One of the highest highs came when a bull moose swam near the bows of our boats as it crossed the Bowron River. Framed by snowy mountains, how could I forget this moose that created such a perfect moment? As we pulled our boats onto shore for the final time and stretched our legs and arms, we thought of all those special moments. The sounds affected me too, especially the haunting wail of the great northern loon, but there were many more that remain with me to a lesser extent. If you go, when you come back home and when you reminisce about your own adventure, there will be a specific sound that will echo in your memories. An eagle perhaps? The roar of waterfalls? The tap dance of rain? No matter, you will know it and when you do it will bring your thoughts back to the 10 lakes, five rivers and 116 kilometers of dipping paddles, gurgling canoe bows and magical wilderness views that you encountered on the iconic Bowron Lakes canoe circuit, just as it does us. Happy travels and a big thanks to all who joined. X

SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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Wednesday, 4 to 7 p.m. Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. anacortesfarmersmarket.org

Saturday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. bellinghamfarmers.org

FAIRHAVEN FARMERS MARKET

Wednesday, noon to 5 p.m. bellinghamfarmers.org

FERNDALE PUBLIC MARKET

Saturday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. ferndalepublicmarket.org

BIRCH BAY PUBLIC MARKET Friday, 3 to 7 p.m. 360/371-2070

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Five locations, a variety of times. eatlocal.org

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Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. abbotsfordfarmandcountrymarket.com

WHITE ROCK MARKET

Sunday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. whiterockfarmersmarket.ca

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Second and fourth Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. ladnervillagemarket.com

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SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

GOING DEEP

Diving the Salish

BY BRANDY KIGER PHOTOS BY BARB ROY

ARTICLE: SCUBA

f you tire of the backcountry and your legs feel a little heavy after carrying the weight of your gear all winter, you might want to consider the ocean for your next adventure. Below the cold, gray-green expanse of the Salish Sea there is a vast wilderness waiting to be explored, and all you need is an open water SCUBA certification and some equipment to find it. While the Pacific Northwest may not be the first place you envision when you think of scuba diving, its waters offer divers an extraordinary opportunity to experience diving at its very best. “It’s world class,” said Ron Akeson, owner of Adventures Down Under in Bellingham. “Jacques Cousteau listed it as one of his top places to dive, second only to the Red Sea, and it consistently scores high marks across the board.” The mountainous terrain and alien-like flora and fauna found below the surface are world-renowned, and Akeson said depending on location, it’s not uncommon to encounter sea lions and wolf eels during a dive. “You don’t have to go very far to see the geography change, either,” Akeson said. One of the world’s largest inland seas, the Salish Sea is home to extraordinary geographical diversity and an astounding array of wildlife. “There are things down there that you’ve never seen before,” said Akeson. “It’s amazing, and much of the life you see here in the San Juans you’ll find in B.C. as well.” Shipwrecks littered throughout the waters off the coast of British Columbia also increase the draw for divers, as their complex surfaces provide the perfect foundation for wildlife to take hold and create stunning ecosystems to explore. “British Columbia has done a great job with sinking ships up there to create artificial reef systems,” said Karma Manley, an employee at Anacortes Diving. These cavernous vessels offer an extra degree of difficulty and wonder to your dive. “They’ve been really intentional about it,” said Akeson. “They’ve sunk destroyer escorts, a 400-foot liberty ship, a freighter and a tugboat to create this amazing underwater dive area.” The HMCS Cape Breton, a 442-foot former World War II victory ship is the world’s second largest diver-prepared artificial reef, and is located near Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. While the scuba tank, weight belt, buoyancy compensator and other gear might weigh you down on land, Akeson said, “Once you hit the water, you’re weightless. That weightless feeling is one of the coolest parts of diving.”

NEED TO KNOW:

Most rental shops require that you have a basic diver certification to rent equipment. Diving certification classes vary from outfitter to outfitter, but average around $400 (including books and gear). “It takes four evenings and a weekend to get certified in most cases,” Akeson said. “We offer one classroom session, three pool sessions and four open water dives on Saturday and Sunday to get you out there.” If you want a dry suit (which you will, since underwater temperatures hang near 40ºF), you will also need a dry suit certification. Visibility is more restricted than you might find in tropical dives. Typically 15 to 30 feet is the average visibility. X

WHERE TO LEARN AND RENT, PAGE 18. 16

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ALPINE WONDERLAND:

HIKING THE HIDDEN LAKE PEAKS STORY AND PHOTOS BY AUBREY LAURENCE

t may sound strange, but if you hike often enough you can become desensitized to many of the great views you come across. Sure, you still appreciate them to a point, but overexposure has a cruel way of dulling your senses. That’s how I was beginning to feel late last summer after hiking on a weekly basis for months. I needed a great hike to reset me, bring me back to reality and humble me once again. The Hidden Lake Peaks hike turned out to be the answer. This hike is the kind that will remind you of why you love to hike, and it will make you want to do it more often. It offers a variety of terrain, a challenging amount of distance and elevation gain and plenty of eye candy. It has it all — lush forests, wildflower-filled meadows and granite slabs, with endless views of glaciated mountains, sparkling tarns and serrated ridges that fade into the horizon. Adding a special and ephemeral quality, there’s only a small window of time to climb these peaks snow-free, which is typically from mid-August through early October. While it can be done other times of the year, it requires technical gear and know-how because there are some sketchy, snow-filled gullies to traverse that can be dangerous. Additionally, the approach route is in an avalanche-prone area. Like most hikes in the North Cascades region, this hike begins in a temperate rainforest. Unlike most, it’s only for a short distance. In fact, more than 75 percent of the trail is in open meadows and above treeline, providing you with more time to drink in the alpine wonderland. Above the trees, you will traverse meadows of heather, lupine and other wildflowers, while panoramic vistas unfold around you. As you gain elevation, the vistas continue to improve. Somewhere between mile three and four, there will be a sky scraping tower of rock ahead. If you look closely, you’ll see the small lookout cabin at the very top of the seemingly insurmountable precipice. Don’t be intimidated because the trail ascends the less formidable side of the peak. Just over four miles in is the border of North Cascades National Park and the 6,600-foot saddle connecting the

two Hidden Lake Peaks. The true summit (7,088') is to the left/northeast and the lookout summit is to the right/ south (6,890'). If you have the energy, it’s really worth visiting both summits, which only adds about a mile and 500 feet of elevation to your day. Hidden Lake, by the way, is directly east and 800 feet lower than the saddle. Just before the saddle, braided trails lead up a couple similar-looking gullies, neither of which is very steep or difficult, though they may be holding some snow all year long. If you’re going to the lookout first, take the gully on the right, and either head up through the snow or do some scampering along the edges of the granite slabs. You may come across red-colored snow nicknamed “watermelon snow,” caused by a type of algae that has a pink or red hue and thrives on perennial snow patches. Supposedly it has a sweet taste, but do not eat it because it is toxic. Beyond the saddle, follow the narrow, switchbacking trail to the right along the east side of the peak as it climbs the remaining 300 feet up the steep slope. You will traverse some ledges, so step cautiously and always beware of falling rocks inadvertently kicked from hikers above. Towards the top you will encounter some easy boulder hopping before gaining the airy summit. The anchored-down lookout cabin is perched about 5,800 feet above the Cascade River seen flowing in the steep valley below, providing it with some rather dramatic views. The cabin, which was built in 1931 and restored in 1961 by Fred Darvill of the Skagit Alpine Club, sleeps four on a first-come, first-serve basis. On a clear day, the 360-degree view from the summit is one of the finest in Washington state. To the northwest is majestic Mt. Baker; to the north is the jagged Rivalry Ridge in the foreground and the Picket Range in the background; to the northeast is El Dorado Peak; to the east you can see Forbidden Peak, Boston Peak and Sahale Mountain, with Cascade Pass just around the valley’s bend and out of view; and to the south, gaze at the venerable Glacier Peak, the rugged Buckindy Group and the ever-frosted Snowking Mountain. If you’re lucky, you may even see Mt. Rainier even farther to the south, as well as the Olympic

Mountains to the southwest. Amazingly, the views from the slightly higher north summit – the true summit – are even better than the south summit. This peak also offers about a half-mile (each way) of fun scampering and scrambling on solid rock with minimal exposure. If you take the easiest routes along the ridge, the scrambling never exceeds Class 2, though you can find more challenging routes if you prefer. From the small north summit, which is capped with a pointed boulder, you’ll have a commanding view of an icy-blue tarn directly below, plus an intimate vantage point of The Triad and the 2,000-foot-higher Eldorado Peak directly to your northeast. The views from both summits are nothing less than spectacular, but this hike is far greater than just its summit views. There are plenty of sights, sounds and smells to capture your attention along the way up and down these peaks. At every rise and turn in the trail, I discovered something new. It was truly inspiring and humbling. If you are like me, this hike will not only refresh your hiking spirit, but will have you wishing it would never end. X

Directions: From Marblemount (where Hwy 20 makes a sharp turn to the left/north), drive east on Cascade River Road for almost 10 miles and then turn left onto Forest Road 1540. Follow FR 1540 for almost 5 miles to the end of the road and the trailhead. The road is narrow in some spots. Be sure not to block the turnaround area at the very end of the road.

Fun Facts: Lookout/South summit elevation: 6,890’ True/North summit elevation: 7,088’ Round-trip Distance (to both summits): about 10 miles Total Elevation Gain (to both summits): about 3,800 feet For more information on the lookout, visit “Friends of Hidden Lake Lookout” on facebook.com.

SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

STORY BY SUE MADSEN

PHOTO: DAVE CHURCH

PADDLING THE SKAGIT

s From Marblemount to the delta, the Skagit River offers serenity and surprises.

he Skagit River starts 23 miles north of the U.S. border in Manning Provincial Park in B.C. and flows south for 150 miles before emptying into Puget Sound near Mount Vernon. After the Columbia it is Washington’s largest river, with a 59-mile-long section from Concrete to just east of Sedro-Woolley designated as Wild and Scenic. Most importantly, the Skagit River is a paddler’s dream with 85 miles of water that are easily navigated by canoe or kayak. With that temptation in mind I set out in 2012 to paddle the entire length of the Skagit from Marblemount to the sea. Over its length, the Skagit River transforms from a rushing mountain stream that cuts through steep bedrock canyons in the rugged North Cascades to a powerful, winding river traversing fertile farmland. Upstream of the small town of Newhalem the river is broken by a series of reservoirs that are part of Seattle City Light’s Skagit River hydroelectric project. Downstream of Newhalem, the river retains its rambunctious manner for about 10 miles – this section is popular with whitewater kayakers. Our journey began at Copper Creek, a put-in located 6 miles east of Marblemount. The water in the upper reaches of the Skagit are a deep, translucent green, bordered by conifer forest that is punctuated by the occasional soaring rocky cliff. The water is swift but the rapids are gentle, with only an occasional stretch of Class 2 water. In paddlers’ terms, this means that there may be some rough water and small drops, but only basic paddling skills are required (as opposed to Class 1 water which requires minimal boating skills). Look out for eagles, water ouzels and kingfishers in the air and mink and river otter along the banks. During the late summer in odd years (including 2013) the clear shallow waters of the upper river are filled with thrashing pink salmon building redds and jostling for space. Larger Chinook can also be glimpsed in early September. Approximately 10 miles downstream of Marblemount, just past the Highway 530 bridge and Howard Miller Steelhead Park, its largest tributary, the Sauk, joins the Skagit River. The Sauk River is also part of the Wild and Scenic River corridor and is fed by glaciers surrounding Glacier Peak to the south. As a result of the turbid glacial melt water, the Sauk’s waters are a milky white in the summer, and paddlers can travel along a clear boundary of the two streams for a mile or more downstream of the confluence before the water mixes and the

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rivers become one. Downstream of the Sauk, the Skagit River deepens and paddlers begin to sense the powerful force of the now dark greenish-gray flow. Steep mountain slopes and soaring rocky cliffs give way to large cobble bars and high cliffs of easily erodible glacial sediments that were left over when this part of the valley was a glacial lake backed up behind a lobe of ice which extended down Puget Sound from Canada. This middle section of the Skagit Valley consists of a mix of floodplain forests and small farms. Several large elk herds inhabit the area, and a lucky paddler may glimpse these majestic creatures along the banks. During the late summer, Chinook and coho salmon lurk in the cool, deep pools, and may surprise unwary travelers by leaping in front of the boat. As we continue downstream we pass fishing shacks and vacation cabins. Farms become more common and the river widens, bordered by large flat sand bars ideal for a short stop to stretch one’s legs and snack. Just upstream of Sedro-Woolley, the Skagit passes under a water supply pipeline, a railroad bridge and Highway 9 in short order. At this point, the transition to farm valley is largely complete, as forests give way to fields and the bustling communities of Sedro-Woolley, Burlington and Mount Vernon. You can miss the fact that the river passes through the heart of these two towns; despite the pastoral feel, the area represents a refuge and travel corridor for birds and wildlife, and harbors some surprisingly wild creatures. As we pass Sedro-Woolley and approach the outskirts of Burlington in the late afternoon sunshine, a harbor seal suddenly pops up to check out the brightly colored flotilla invading its hunting grounds. Seals are salt-water animals, but will sometimes travel upstream chasing the large salmon that are its favorite prey; they have been spotted as far upstream as Concrete! The late afternoon sunshine fades and a full moon rises; great-horned owls hoot as we round the big bend and head towards the bank for our take out at Edgewater Park in downtown Mount Vernon. We save the final section for another day. The river continues downstream of Mount Vernon for a few miles through fields bright with tulips and daffodils during the early spring, then splits in two and fans out to form a large delta. We travel the North Fork Skagit downstream, with the river splitting into ever more numerous channels lined with reeds and willows. At the very end of the river lies Fish Town, an artist community hidden amongst the myriad Between Milepost 20 - 21 marshy channels that thrived in the 1960s and ’70s (read Tara Nelson’s Mt. Baker Hwy., Deming article on Fish Town in the summer 2007 edition of Mount Baker ExperiPh 360/599-BEER (2337) ence). Great blue heron, beaver, and shorebirds are common companions www.northforkbrewery.com on this section of river. At low tide, raccoons ply the banks looking for stranded delicacies. Paddlers must pick their way carefully to navigate through the delta successfully by keeping Ika Island over the right shoulder. Once free of the maze, it is but a short crossing to the “hole in the wall,” a narrow channel that breaches the jetty protecting the La Conner boat channel, then up the Swinomish Channel to the end. We take out under the Rainbow Bridge, and then decamp to La Conner to toast the companions who accompanied us on some of this entire 85-mile journey through the heart of the Skagit Valley. LOGISTICS Travelling speed on the Skagit during the summer low flow period is approximately 6 miles per hour. Although it can be done in a single, very long summer day, you will enjoy the float more by camping for a night or two. There are a number of boat launches along the river and a couple of campgrounds. Consider starting at Copper Creek and floating down to Rasar State Park for the first night (about 8 hours/40 miles). From Rasar, continue to Sedro-Woolley (about 4 hours/20 miles beyond Rasar), where River Front Park includes a small RV camping area that could be used as

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including floating submerged logs and swift, rough flows. I have had good luck targeting flow levels between 5,000 and 10,000 cfs at the Marblemount stream gauge, and between 8,000 to 20,000 cfs at the Concrete or Sedro-Woolley stream gauges. Always wear a PFD. Immersion can be dangerous if one is unprepared, as the glacially fed tributaries keep the water temperature low even in late summer. Also be wary of logjams and avoid getting swept in. The Skagit is generally large enough that such hazards can be seen and avoided by moving away from them while still well upstream, but it is easy to underestimate the speed and power of the seemingly calm flow, so stay alert. X

PHOTO: JOHN SCURLOCK

an overnight base, or continue on to La Conner, approximately 25 miles further. Camping is also allowed on lands owned by the USFS, but be considerate and leave no trace. Respect private lands by avoiding areas posted with no trespassing signs, and by stopping only on publicly-owned land. Pack out what you pack in. Information on river conditions can be found on the USGS realtime stream flow conditions website (waterdata.usgs.gov/wa/nwis/ current/?type=flow). Think about flow levels when planning your trip. Shallow flows mean paddlers must take extra care not to scrape or dent the bottom of their boat, and to avoid rocks that may tip the unwary into the water. High water poses different hazards,

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PHOTO: TIM CHANDONNET

s Alpenglow on Mt. Baker and the North Cascades.

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t Hikers explore a verdant fern forest.

Biking the Chuckanut Mountains.

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t Colors and textures of the Nooksack River.

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SPRING 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

SUMMER

GEAR GUIDE

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SUMMER

GEAR GUIDE

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HELLY HANSEN LERWICK RAIN JACKET It ain’t always swell in the northwest. For those days when it’s pouring rain, you’ll want HH’s heritage fishermen jacket that comes with full stretch waterproof rain fabric. Also features full liner, YKK Vislon zippers, welded pockets and an inside pocket for extra storage. Weighs 29 oz. Around $100.

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HELLY HANSEN ODIN CHILL SHORT HH’s Odin lineup has been getting well-deserved raves and now they’re offering beach clothes. With input from Mountain Madness, the Chill shorts are a longer length cargo short made with quick-drying fabric, UPF 30 with a zippered cargo pocket. Around $85.

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BE LOCAL, BUY LOCAL. We’ve listed the manufacturer’s websites for more information, but we encourage you to support your local retailers. These summer items can be found at American Alpine Institute, Backcountry Essentials, Fairhaven Bike & Ski, Hidden Wave Boardshop, LFS Marine & Outdoor, Mountain Equipment Co-op, REI, Sportsman Chalet, Yeager’s Sporting Goods and other quality retailers in Washington and British Columbia. SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

FISHING

BAKER LAKE STORY BY SUE MADSEN PHOTOS BY MIKE CAREY

ist rises from the deep, green water, and there is a faint tang of wood smoke in the air as campers slowly begin to stir. Boats are slipped into the water as the sky lightens, and a rosy glow lights the tops of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan, looming over the lake to the west. For most folks, weekend mornings mean sleeping late and enjoying a leisurely cup of coffee on a sunlit porch but for a handful of hardcore fishers, the perfect way to start a day is rising in the pre-dawn light and loading up a boat to head out onto Baker Lake after sockeye salmon. Baker Lake has recently become one of the region’s premier sport fishing destinations. Improvements at Puget Sound Energy’s Baker River hydroelectric project have led to dramatic increases in sockeye salmon returns in the past few years, and in 2010 a sport fishery for the prized game fish opened for the first time. In the two summers since then, fishing for sockeye salmon on Baker Lake has become one of Whatcom County’s finest recreational fishing options. Mike Carey spends every day he can fishing Baker Lake, and loves to share tips on how to catch sockeye (check out his reports and videos at washingtonlakes.com). An early start can be key; Mike tries to be on the water by 5:30 a.m. Fishing tends to be best towards the north end of the lake and in the early to mid-morning, with occasional lulls in the action. Early in the day, fish may be found in relatively shallow waters (20–25 feet), but by late morning, the best fishing is deep (40–50 feet). In 2012, Mike and his fishing companions landed 26 fish in six trips (with a two-fish per person limit). He recommends trolling slowly, and using a variety of gear, trying different colored hooks, bait and attractors to see what the fish want. Baker Lake is open for fishing from the fourth Saturday in April to October 31. Fishing can be excellent for kokanee (land locked sockeye salmon) in the early spring and late fall, but the real fun begins in July, when adult sockeye begin to show up. Adult sockeye return from the sea from June through August, and are released to the lake starting in July. The duration and timing of the sockeye fishery varies with in-season abundance. Rules for 2013 have not yet been set, so check the Washington

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Department of Fish and Wildlife’s website at wdfw.wa.gov/publications/01384/. According to Brett Barkdull of WDFW, 2013 should be a decent year for Baker Lake sockeye, with a preseason forecast for 21,500 returning fish. Recreational access to Baker Lake is a breeze. The nine-milelong lake is located about 13 miles up the paved Baker Lake Road, off Highway 20 just west of the town of Concrete. There are boat launches at the Upper Baker Dam, Horseshoe Cove, Kulshan, Panorama Point and Shannon Creek. Kulshan, Panorama Point, Swift Creek and Shannon Creek also have campgrounds, and camping the evening before to make that early start is a great way to enjoy Baker Lake. Campgrounds fill quickly on summer weekends, so get there early or reserve a site ahead of time. Non-anglers can enjoy swimming, hiking the east bank trail or checking out the Shadow of the Sentinels interpretive site. X

Puget Sound Energy’s (PSE) Baker River Hydroelectric Project consists of two dams – Lower Baker Dam, a 285-foot-high concrete gravity arch dam completed in 1925, and Upper Baker Dam, a 312-foot-high structure completed in 1959. In recent years, PSE has implemented fish management projects at the Baker River project as part of a new 50-year license granted by the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission. In 2008, PSE completed an innovative “floating surface collector” on Baker Lake that lures and safely captures juvenile salmon for downstream transport around the two dams. In its first year of operation, the $50 million apparatus produced the highest outmigration rate on record for juvenile Baker River sockeye. Other improvements include a second floating surface collector at Lower Baker Dam (completed this spring), a new fish hatchery and an advanced upstream trap-and-haul facility located just below Lower Baker Dam. The three highest returns of Baker River sockeye have all been in the past three years, with 48,014 returning in 2012. PSE offers free tours of the facility during the summer months. Info: pse. com/inyourcommunity

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EVENTS around the mt. baker region MAY BIKE TO WORK AND SCHOOL DAY: May 17, Whatcom County. Bike or walk to one of 30 celebration stations. After party at Chuckanut Brewery. Info: biketoworkandschoolday.org PENN COVE WATER FESTIVAL: May 18, Coupeville. Tribal canoe races, Native American storytelling and environmental education activities. Info: penncovewaterfestival.com BAY VIEW WOMEN’S WALK/RUN 10K & 2-MILE: May 18, Burlington. Proceeds benefit Skagit domestic violence and sexual assault

services. Info: fairhavenrunners. com/races PINE/CEDAR LAKE HIKE: May 19, Bellingham. Check out both lakes, climb to the viewpoint above Cedar Lake and possibly take in the view from Raptor Ridge. Info: mountbakerclub.org MEC BIG CHOP SUMMER PADDLE SERIES: May 23, Vancouver. A fun night of paddling on the waters of Vancouver Harbor. Info: events. mec.ca CONTRA DANCE AT FAIRHAVEN LIBRARY: May 24, Fairhaven. Learn and enjoy some contra (New England-style country) dancing

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accompanied by old-time fiddle bands and callers. Info: bellinghamcountrydance.org NW TULIP TREKKERS WALK FORT CASEY: May 25-26, Fort Casey. Walk with friends in the Northwest corner. Info: fairhavenrunners. com/races SKI TO SEA: May 26, Bellingham. Celebrate the 102nd year of the amazing adventure relay race. Info: skitosea.com BACKPACKING BASICS: May 27, Bellingham. REI hosts an overview of backpacking preparation skills, including gear selection. Info: rei. com/bellingham BACKCOUNTRY COOKING BASICS: May 28, Bellingham. REI techs teach trail cooking skills. Info: rei. com/bellingham

JUNE NATIONAL TRAILS DAY: June 1, America. Get involved in a trail workday with your local trail building association. In Bellingham, that’s the WMBC. Info: whimpsmtb.org THE HUMAN RACE: June 1, Bellingham. A charitable race put on by the Whatcom Volunteer Center. Info: humanracewvc.org

TRI-BERRY TRIATHLON: June 1, Lynden. A great spring triathlon with a pool swim. Info: fairhavenrunners.com/races RAPTOR RIDGE CHALLENGE: June 3, Bellingham. A 10-mile trail running race through the Chuckanuts. Info: cascademountainrunners. blogspot.com DEMING LOGGING SHOW: June 8–9, Deming. 51st annual show with 31 events and BBQ. Info: demingloggingshow.com DECEPTION PASS HIKE: June 9, South Whidbey Island. Hike the loop that includes Cranberry Lake, beaches, south side of Deception Pass, Cornet Bay and 450-ft. climb up Goose Rock. Info: mountbakerclub.org SAND CASTLE CITY CLASSIC: June 9, White Rock. 10K race on a netdownhill course. Info: fairhavenrunners.com/races LUMMI ISLAND BIKE RIDE: June 15, Lummi Island. Ride and explore 12 miles at a leisurely pace and take in the beautiful views. Info: mountbakerclub.org

PHOTO: JON BRUNK PHOTOGRAPHY

TREES AND TIES BIKE RIDE: June 16, Bellingham. Celebrate Fathers’ Day with a bike ride, wear a tie, and learn about trees from a tree expert. Info: everybodybike.com STEWART MOUNTAIN LOOP TRAIL HIKE: June 22, Bellingham. Moderate, less than six-mile hike up Stewart Mountain. Info: mountbakerclub.org LAKE PADDEN TRIATHLON: June 22, Lake Padden. A beautiful course for multi-sport racers. Info: cob.org/services/recreation/races/ padden-triathlon TOUR DE WHATCOM: July 27, Whatcom County. Take a fun ride through Whatcom County for charity. Info: tourdewhatcom.com BELLINGHAM KIDS TRAVERSE: June 29, Bellingham. A race for kids to raise money for the YMCA. Info: recreationnorthwest.org OYSTER DOME HIKE: June 29, Bellingham. Starting at Samish Overlook making your way up to the Oyster Dome. Moderate to difficult hike, some strenuous up-hill stretches. Info: mountbakerclub.org

MEC BIKEFEST: June 15, Vancouver. Exhibits, demos and entertainment for all things biking. Info: events.mec.ca

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Visit us online to find more events in your area!

JULY MEC PADDLEFEST: July 6, Vancouver. Dive into the world of kayaking, canoeing and stand up paddleboarding. Info: events.mec.ca EAST 542 MUSIC FEST: July 12-13, Deming Log Show Grounds. Rock & country music festival. Camping available. Info: 542musicfest.com COWS ON BIKES: July 14, Lynden. Bike to Fresh Breeze organic milk farm. Info: everybodybike.com FAMILY BIKE RIDE: July 20, Birch Bay. Enjoy a group ride in the Birch Bay parade then stay to enjoy Birch Bay Discovery Days. Info: everybodybike.com

HISTORY BIKE RIDE: July 28, Bellingham. Who was JJ Donovan, and why are so many Bellingham landmarks named after him? Ride around Bellingham to find out. Info: everybodybike.com

MT. BAKER RHYTHM & BLUES FESTIVAL: August 2–4, Deming Log Show Grounds. Info: bakerblues.com

SUBDUED STRINGBAND JAMBOREE: August 8-10, Deming Log Shoe Grounds. Info: stringbandjamboree.com

FAMILY SHOW AND TELL BIKE RIDE: August 3, Bellingham. Take a trail ride to Bellingham’s Kids Fest, a free family event with lots of activities and free food. Info: everybodybike.com

ROASTERS AND RED TAILS: August 11, Ferndale. Hammerhead Coffee demonstrates coffee bean roasting to energize this bike ride around Ferndale. Info: everybodybike.com

MUDS TO SUDS: August 24-25, Ferndale. Race through a fun, muddy obstacle course then bathe in foamy bubbles at Hovander Park. Info: mudstosuds.com WOODS TO WOODS RIDE: August 25, Bellingham. Choose from a self-guided tour of all 14 Woods Coffee locations or join us for a guided tour of three. Info: everybodybike.com

WHERE’S WALDO FAMILY BIKE RIDE: July 31, Bellingham. Wear a red-and-white striped shirt and socks like Waldo and bike as a group to Village Books’ Where’s Waldo? Party. Info: everybodybike.com

AUGUST ANACORTES ARTS FESTIVAL: August 2–4, Anacortes. Downtown Anacortes arts festival of global repute. Info: anacortesartsfestival.com

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BH 2109 - Mt Baker Experience Ad - May 2013 | 6.083 x 5

SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

SLEEPS BELLINGHAM BEST WESTERN PLUS LAKEWAY INN 714 Lakeway Drive 360/671-1011 thelakewayinn.com Bellingham’s only full-service hotel with 132 spacious guest rooms and suites, two restaurants, lobby café, indoor pool and hot tub, fitness center, and 11,000 square feet of meeting space for weddings, banquets and corporate events.

MOONDANCE INN 4737 Cable Street 360/647-2997 bellinghambandb.com A picturesque setting with stunning mountain and lake views, MoonDance offers a delightfully memorable, affordable B&B experience! Start your day with a delicious breakfast and breathtaking views before start-

ing your adventure. Come enjoy the charming, cozy inn.

CONCRETE OVENELL’S HERITAGE INN & LOG CABINS 46276 Concrete Sauk Valley Road 360/853-8494 ovenells-inn.com Open year round, fully equipped, AAA-rated log cabins on a secluded cattle ranch and wildlife preserve bordering Skagit River. Minutes from Mt. Baker National Recreation Area and North Cascade National Park. Family and pet friendly.

GLACIER BLUE T LODGE 10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9944

EATS ACME/VAN ZANDT BELLINGHAM ACME DINER 2045 Valley Highway (Hwy 9) 360/595-0150 acme-diner.com This 50s-style diner’s friendly staff is ready to serve you great home-cooked food; fresh ground hamburgers, hand-cut french fries, pizza, espresso, homemade desserts and Acme ice cream. Open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.

BLUE MOUNTAIN GRILL 974 Valley Highway (Hwy 9) 360/595-2200 bluemountaingrill.com Fresh, homemade fare, including baked bread and desserts made daily, steaks and burgers. Open for lunch and dinner everyday, and breakfast on weekends. Enjoy a beautiful view of the Twin Sisters.

EVERYBODY’S STORE 5465 Potter Road, off Highway 9 360/592-2297 everybodys.com This delightful, eclectic store features a wide array of gourmet meats, specialty cheeses and fine wines, many of which are made locally. Also check out their great selection of clothing, books and artwork.

CHUCKANUT BREWERY & KITCHEN 601 W. Holly Street 360/752-3377 chuckanutbreweryandkitchen.com Enjoy world class European style, award-winning lagers and ales, and a local-centric menu of fresh American cuisine including woodstone pizzas, burgers, salads and more. All ages welcome every day starting at 11:30 a.m.

EMERALD CITY SMOOTHIE 1058 Lakeway Drive 360/647-2357 Get fit, make the healthy choice! Tasty smoothies and nutritional products for all your health needs. Lose weight, get healthy, find meal replacements and weight gainers. We have you covered. Come check out the variety of products.

KULSHAN BREWING CO. 2238 James Street 360/389-5348 kulshanbrewery.com Enjoy great beer in a comfortable taproom with a view of the brewery. Bring in your own food or order from on site food trucks at this neighborhood gem.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

bluetlodge.com Conveniently located behind Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza and Bar, this six-room inn is ideal for families or groups. Clean rooms have queensized beds, a full bathroom and views of Church Mountain as well as access to a meeting space.

THE INN AT MOUNT BAKER 8174 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-1776 theinnatmtbaker.com The Inn at Mount Baker, located just west of Glacier, is an excellent choice for accommodations. A stay includes gourmet European-style breakfast, featherbeds and breathtaking views of Mt. Baker and the Nooksack Valley.

THE LOGS AT CANYON CREEK 7577 Canyon View Drive 360/599-2711 thelogs.com The Logs is located in Glacier Springs, near Canyon Creek and the North Fork of the Nooksack River. Stay in the rustic two-bedroom log cabins. The homes are widely spaced along the creek, allowing for private space and relaxation.

LORENZO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 190 E. Bakerview Road 360/527-3181 lorenzosmexicanrestaurant.com Arouse your taste buds to the best Mexican food around. Offering a variety of house specialties, combination plates and classic Mexican favorites that are sure to excite your family.

OBOE CAFÉ 714 Lakeway Drive 360/671-1011 thelakewayinn.com Bellingham’s hidden gem located inside Best Western Plus Lakeway Inn. Home to Bellingham’s best breakfast for crab Benedict. Northwest specialties for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Expansive wine selection and water wall seating.

POPPES 360 NEIGHBORHOOD PUB 714 Lakeway Drive 360/671-1011 bellinghamrestaurant.com Voted home to Northwest’s Best Cocktail. Enjoy Northwest fare for lunch, dinner, appetizers and dessert. Happy Hour every day; 12 taps, specialty martinis, nightly entertainment. Year-round covered and heated patio with three fire pits.

THE GRACE CAFE 1065 E. Sunset Drive 360/650-9298 gracecafepies.com The perfect stop for your morning coffee and pastry or afternoon

MT. BAKER VIEW GUEST HOUSE 6920 Central Avenue 360/599-2155 mtbakerviewguesthouse.com Three units available. The Guest House in downtown Glacier sleeps six, hot tub and games. Cascade Retreat in Snowline sleeps 15, sauna and hot tub. Matt’s condo in Snowater sleeps four.

WINTER CREEK BED & BREAKFAST 9253 Cornell Creek Road 360/599-2526 wintercreekbandb.com Hidden below the impressive glaciers of Mt. Baker and at the doorstep of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Winter Creek B&B is the perfect place to stay while visiting the Pacific Northwest mountains.

MAPLE FALLS BAKER ACCOMMODATIONS 7425 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2999 or 888/695-7533 bakeraccomodations.com Baker Accommodations offers cabins and condos in the resort develop-

snack. Muffins, cinnamon rolls, fruit-filled scones, handmade pies, or for something more substantial, try a breakfast bagel or deli sandwich. Dine in or drive thru.

WESTSIDE PIZZA 4260 Cordata Parkway, Suite 107 360/756-5055 westsidepizza.com Pizza made with only the best ingredients available, and dough made fresh every day. The perfect place to stop after a long, hungry day of adventuring.

BURLINGTON TRAIN WRECK BAR & GRILL 427 E. Fairhaven Avenue 360/755-0582 trainwreck.com A fun, casual and inviting place to get a beer, wine, cocktail or quick and delicious meal. Serving customers ages 21 and over locally sourced products, always with a smile and gourmet flair.

ments of Snowater, Snowline and Mt. Baker Rim, conveniently located just east of Glacier.

MT. BAKER LODGING 7463 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2453 or 800/709-7669 mtbakerlodging.com Mt. Baker Lodging offers cabins, condos, chalets and executive rental home accommodations. A number of selected units are pet friendly. Walk-in reservations and one-night stays available.

WINTHROP CHEWUCH INN 223 White Avenue 800/747-3107 Guest rooms for romantic getaways, seasonal travelers and outdoor enthusiasts. The relaxed atmosphere of a B&B with the privacy of a hotel. Centrally located for an abundance of outdoor adventures in the surrounding wilderness areas. X

DEMING IL CAFFE RIFUGIO RESTORANTE 5415 Mt. Baker Highway 360/592-2888 ilcafferifugio.com Gourmet full-service menu, serving wine, beer and espresso at reasonable prices. 8 a.m.– 8 p.m. Thursday – Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 15 minutes from Bellingham. New drive up bar. Live music and events. Last stop for WiFi.

THE NORTH FORK BREWERY AND BEER SHRINE 6186 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2337 northforkbrewery.com Whether you want to get married (yes this restaurant is also a wedding chapel), enjoy a handcrafted Scotch ale or munch on a slice of spicy pizza, the North Fork Brewery is your destination. At this lively brewery, you’re sure to see a friendly face and have a great time. Open for dinner, lunch on weekends.

EVERSON

CONCRETE

CAFE 544

ANNIE’S PIZZA STATION 44568 State Route 20 360/853-7227 anniespizzastation.com Family owned pizza restaurant focusing on fresh, homemade quality Italian fare. Friendly service, helpful info and great food combine for an unforgettable experience.

302 E. Main Street 360/966-7822 The Hogan family restaurant serves fantastic fare from juicy burgers to tender quality steaks. Open every day from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., 3 p.m. on Sunday. Breakfast served all day. Dessert by Lynden Dutch Bakery.

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

EATS CONTINUED

room. Try the “Canuck’s Deluxe” pizza, a staff favorite. Open for lunch and dinner.

GOOD TO GO MEAT PIES 128 W. Main Street 360/966-2400 goodtogomeatpies.com Our destination kitchen in Everson features classic meat and vegetarian pies (Pastys) baked daily, locally sourced. Original soups and desserts. Tuesday – Friday 11:30 a.m.– 6 p.m., Saturday 11:30 a.m. – 4 p.m. Eat in or take out.

GRAHAM’S STORE

HERB NIEMANN’S STEAK HOUSE RESTAURANT

MILANO’S RESTAURANT

203 W. Main Street 360/966-2855 eversonsteakhouse.com Nestled in the middle of Everson, serving a mouth-watering array of steaks, Bavarian specialties, seafood and desserts to customers since 1993. Offers atmospheres for adults and families alike, including parties up to 50.

GLACIER CHAIR 9 WOODSTONE PIZZA AND BAR 10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2511 chair9.com The perfect place to enjoy a great family meal or a brew after a day on the mountain. Bands play weekends, and the space offers plenty of dancing

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2665 Conveniently located in the same building as Graham’s Restaurant, this store contains everything from bagel sandwiches and ice cream to movie rentals, beer, wine and an ATM, as well as handmade hats and a selection of books.

9990 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2863 Known for their mouth-watering fresh pasta, succulent seafood, and homemade sauces, food at Milano’s is an authentic “taste of Italy.” The casual atmosphere is perfect for lunch and dinner, and breakfast on the weekends.

WAKE ’N BAKERY 6903 Bourne Street 360/599-1658 getsconed.com A favorite for those heading up and down the mountain, whether for an early-morning latte and breakfast burrito, delicious quiches and sandwich wraps or chocolate dipped macaroons. House-made food available 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.-ish.

Family Restaurant

Open Everyday at 7 a.m. Breakfast served all day! Juicy Burgers • Tender, Quality Steaks Dessert by Lynden Dutch Bakery

7 a.m. - 8 p.m. 7 a.m. - 3 p.m. on Sunday

MAPLE FALLS CAFE 542 7466 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-1347 Experience one of their signature hash-and-eggs breakfasts with an espresso, or a glass of wine or beer with a BBQ pulled pork sandwich, veggie panini or pulled Reuben. Outdoor patio seating. Happy hour 2–5 p.m.

Medical Clinic 360-988-9404 Rodney Thompson, M.D. • • • •

Family Medicine Pediatrics through Geriatrics Travel Medicine Accepts Most Insurances

112 Columbia St., POB 1010, Sumas, WA 98295

www.goodtogomeatpies.com

MAPLE FALLS CAFÉ 7471 Mt. Baker Highway 360/656-5833 maplefallscafe.com American food with a twist! Wholesome, healthy, great-tasting food made from scratch. Local, organic ingredients. House-made artisan beers and infusions, root beer and lemonade. Friendly, casual ‘farmhouse’ atmosphere.

MAPLE FUELS Corner of Mt. Baker Highway and Silver Lake Road 360/599-2222 maplefuels.com Fondly known to locals as the “Fuelie,” the deli offers a wide selection of fresh sandwiches, made with local Claus meats. Fuel up on gas, grab a coffee or pick up some groceries and wash your clothes at the laundromat while you’re at it. WiFi. X

Sumas DRUG 360-988-2681

Bavarian style dishes Best Schnitzel and Steak without flying to Europe! Mon-Sat 5 pm-10 pm Sun – 5 pm-9 pm

203 W Main St. • Everson • 360-966-2855 www.eversonsteakhouse.com

Apply today!

Stop by anD SaVE on your nExt trip to Mt. bakEr

Home Dairies Milk 1%, 2%, Fat Free. Limit 1.

With a purchase of $25 or more. Not to be used with any other offer. Expires 08/18/13. #8918 www.bromleysmarket.com

315 Cherry Street, Sumas, Washington 1 block south of the border • 360/988-4721

302 E. Main St. Everson, WA 360-966-7822

S UM A S

360.966.2400 128 W. Main St., Everson WA 98247

315 CHERRY ST. SUMAS, WA

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AUCTION MARKET MONDAY SALE:

Slaughter Cattle Approx. 3pm Small Animals - 12:30pm

GENERAL LIVESTOCK SALE: Every Wed. - 1pm

FEEDER SALE: Second Sat. of Month - 12:30pm

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360/966-3271 7291 Everson Goshen Rd. Everson, WA

Sumas

Liquor & Wine Amazing selection of beer, spirits and wine! Mon-Thu 10:30am - 8pm Fri-Sat 10:30am - 9pm Sun 12pm - 6pm

444C Cherry St. • Sumas, WA 98295

(360) 988-6482

Close to the Sumas border in downtown Sumas SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

SUMMER

RIDES

ARE BACK

GOOD BREWS

TOS BY AUBREY LAURENCE New breweries popping up | STORY AND PHO

ccording to the Brewers Association, which represents craft breweries in the United States, 2012 saw a 15 percent rise in volume, a 17 percent increase in dollar growth and an 18 percent increase in the number of operating breweries in the United States. “On average, we are seeing slightly more than one craft brewery per day opening somewhere in the U.S.,” said Brewers Association director Paul Gatza, “and we anticipate even more in the coming year.” Washington has always been one of the leading states in the craft beer movement and it continues to grow at an exciting rate. There are now more than 170 operating breweries in the state, with at least 30 more in the planning stages. The Bellingham area is no exception in the national surge of brewery growth.

Kulshan Brewing Company

Before it even turned one-year-old, Bellingham’s Kulshan Brewing Company doubled its brewing capacity last February by installing a new, 15-barrel brewhouse – along with eight additional taps – in an effort to keep up with demand. “I think the Sunnyland neighborhood, and Bellingham in general, has received us with open arms,” said Kulshan founder Dave Vitt. “People often tell me how much they love the beer and the taproom, and how much they like coming in. “It’s a great feeling to know that I took an old, empty building, made it comfortable, filled it with happy people and created a cultural hub for the neighborhood. But I feel like Kulshan’s biggest accomplishment so far has been putting 19 people to work with jobs they love.” If things continue to go well for Kulshan and if it can keep up with demand, Vitt hopes to start bottling beers within the next year.

Menace Brewing Company

Join us for our 2013 season of easy,

Menace Brewing Company of Ferndale, which Ben

Buccarelli and Brandon Petersen opened in 2012, continues to gain thirsty followers. Presently, Menace brews are only available at Maggie’s Pub in Ferndale and The Fork at Agate Bay in Bellingham, but it’s not for lack of demand, as the half-barrel nanobrewery keeps plenty busy. “When we’re not working our day jobs, we produce just enough beer for our two accounts,” said Buccarelli. “We are currently working on expanding the capacity of our brewhouse, and hopefully we will soon be able to handle a few more accounts.” The Menace brew crew, which also includes Tom Raden, brews two “flagship” ales, a pale ale and a red ale, and they are constantly experimenting with new recipes and ingredients. “We recently brewed a chili IPA that turned out pretty awesome,” said Buccarelli. Menace has also done some collaboration beers with the Bellingham Beer League, which is a cooperatively-owned brewery working hard to create a shared production space and a taproom. This “brewery incubator” will one day provide opportunities for start-up brewers to launch their own brands.

Island Hoppin’ Brewery

Island Hoppin’ Brewery on Orcas Island is cranking out a slew of delicious, hop-forward brews with incredible balance and drinkability. Jim Parker, Nate Schons and Becca Gray opened the small brewery and taproom in Eastsound last September and ever since, they have been working tirelessly to keep up with demand. In fact, just days after opening, they realized they did not have enough capacity, so they immediately put in an order for additional 10-barrel fermenters. “We have received overwhelming support from the Orcas Island community,” said Parker. “Bellingham has also been really supportive.” In Bellingham, look for Island Hoppin’ beers on draft at Elizabeth Station, The Copper Hog, McKay’s Taphouse, The Green Frog and the Book Fare Café in Village Books. X

social bike rides to tasty destinations— every other Sunday until August 25th. Check out our line up on the next page! For more details call 360-671-BIKE, or visit www.everybodyBIKE.com.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

JOIN THE CLUB T

he Mt. Baker region is home to passionate groups of enthusiasts in a wide array of outdoor pursuits. Name an outdoor activity and chances are there’s a club in the area dedicated to it. Here’s a small sample of area clubs that are active all summer.

Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Section

Want to meet other backcountry enthusiasts? The ACC Vancouver Section offers club trips every weekend, interspersed with backcountry courses for beginners through experts. Annual membership fee: $46.96. Info: accvancouver.ca

Bellingham Triathlon Club

Open to athletes of all levels, this club provides athletes with the resources they need to be more successful in multi-sport. Annual membership fee: $15. Info: sites.google.com/site/bellinghamtriathlonclub

Chilliwack Outdoor Club

Based in Chilliwack, B.C. and involving members from across Fraser Valley, this club offers hiking and backpacking, technical climbing, cycling, paddle sports, snow sports, an annual summer BBQ and an annual Christmas party. Annual membership fee: $35. Info: chilliwackoutdoorclub.com

Greater Bellingham Running Club

GBRC promotes health and fitness through participation in running on road, track and cross-country. Sponsored events are open to all ages, members and non-members, males and females. Annual membership fee: $10-40. Info: www.gbrc.net

Mt. Baker Bike Club

A club of bicycle enthusiasts: roadies, racers, commuters, cruisers, recreational riders, mountain bikers, cyclocrossers, fitness lovers and advocates. Annual membership fee: $25/ individuals, $15/ multiple people living at the same address. Info: mtbakerbikeclub. org/membership

Mt. Baker Club

Dedicated to all things outdoors in the Mt. Baker region, and with a storied history that dates back to

1911, the Mt. Baker Club tries to sponsor at least one hike, bike, canoe, kayak, camping, backpacking or other outdoor activity every weekend all year long. Annual membership fee: $15/ individual, $18/ multiple family members. Info: mountbakerclub.org

Valley Outdoors Association

Loosely based in the Fraser Valley, the VOA offers a wide variety of weekend activities for all fitness and experience levels. Destinations are ad hoc with the group picking the next week’s adventure over coffee and ice cream after a hike. A schedule of activities is mailed to members every three months. Annual membership fee: $35/individual, $55 for families. Info: valleyoutdoor.org

Whatcom Association of Kayak Enthusiasts

WAKE’s mission is to further the enjoyment, knowledge and safety of kayaking by providing training and a wide variety of trips and social events to members and the general public. Annual membership fee: $25/ household. Info: wakekayak.org

Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition

WMBC is a federal non-profit, 501(c) 3 organization working to promote continued and expanded access for mountain biking and cycling in Whatcom County. Hundreds of volunteers put in thousands of hours every year at sponsored trail days, which include tools, food, beverages and lots of camaraderie. Info: whimpsmtb.org

4th Corner Fly Fishers

Based in Bellingham, members are united by their enjoyment of the sport of fly-fishing and their desire to preserve and enhance fishing opportunities for all. Annual membership fee: $60/ individual, $90/ family. Info: 4thcornerfly.com X

MAPLE FALLS CAFE S

eattle chef and restaurateur Sam Hassan is bringing his unique take on good food to Maple Falls with the opening of the Maple Falls Cafe on the Mt. Baker Highway this May. He’ll be serving up everything from all-natural beef burgers marinated in brandy or bourbon and topped with Irish Dubliner cheese with double roasted bacon from Chicago to local trout smothered in an apple and red onion fondue. “It’s quite an interesting menu. It’s basically American fare that’s really well-done and honestly priced,” Hassan said. “We’re trying to use natural, organic ingredients as much as possible to offer healthy, plentiful meals and offer specials and gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options.” He’s even making his own house-made root beer and lemonade. The former owner of The Grill from Ipanema (the first Brazilian-style grill in Seattle) and Paratii Craft Bar has had his fare featured in Seattle Met Magazine and despite continued success in the big city, he was ready for something new. Hassan said that living and working in the mountains has been a life-long dream. “I grew up in Brazil, so pine trees were exotic to me,” he said. “Now, I can live three days in the mountains and four days on the water, and still make good food.” An avid music lover, Hassan is also bringing a world-renowned music lineup to the area which begin in May, with musicians such as Renaud Garcia-Fons, Crumac, the Carlos Cascante Band, the Jessie Sawyers Band, the Eric Verlinde Band, Andre Mehmari and the Jovino Santos Neto Trio gracing the stage. “I like to make noise, so I put this music event together,” he said. Tickets for the shows can be purchased at brownpapertickets.com. “I’m excited about this. It just sort of fell into my lap,” he said. Maple Falls Cafe will be open Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m. for the month of May. New hours begin June 1. For more information call 360/6565833 or visit maplefallscafe.com. X

Sweet! 2013 Summer Rides

SUNDAY, MAY 19: Urban Farmers Curious about raising farm animals in the City? In partnership with Sustainable Bellingham, we’ll visit chicken coops, bee keepers, and friendly goats on a bike tour of household farms in Bellingham neighborhoods. Taste samples of local goat cheese and goat milk lattés from Wailing Goat Espresso. 1pm at Elizabeth Park Gazebo.

SUNDAY, JUNE 2: That 70’s Ride Wear the craziest 70’s polyester shirt you can find and cruise from Black Market Boutique to the Railroad Trail at Alabama Bridge for a group photo. Ride ends at Spartan Espresso for smoothie samples and a Bellingham Roller Betties demo. 1pm at Bellingham Black Market Boutique.

SUNDAY, JUNE 16: Trees & Ties Celebrate Fathers’ Day with a bike ride. Local tree expert John Wesselink will reveal the special stories of trees in Bay View Cemetery, then we’ll ride along Whatcom Creek Trail. Wear a tie in honor of Fathers’ Day and enjoy donut holes from Lafeens Bakery. Special raffle prizes for Dads donated by Fanatik Bike Co. and Yondersea Men’s Grooming Lounge. 1pm at Fanatik Bike Co. SUNDAY, JUNE 30: Chocolate Detectives

Discover secrets and chocolate on a bike ride through Bellingham. Stop at significant sites and find clues hinting at the next mystery destination. Guided by a clue master, we’ll sample luscious chocolates by Evolve Truffles along the way. 1pm at Kulshan Cycles on Chestnut Street.

SUNDAY, JULY 14: Cows on Bikes Bike to Fresh Breeze Organic Milk

Farm to meet cows and the farmers who love them. Learn about Organic Farming and why it makes a difference. Sample delicious chocolate milk made in Whatcom County paired with yummy Dutch pastries. 1pm at City Bible Church in Lynden. For a shorter ride, meet at 1:30 at Berthusen Park.

SATURDAY, JULY 20, Family Ride: Birch Bay Bike Parade Enjoy a group ride in the Birch Bay Parade then stay to enjoy the Birch Bay Discovery Day’s festivities. Check website for meeting location and time. SUNDAY, JULY 28: History Ride Who was JJ Donovan and why are so many Bellingham landmarks named after him? Get a history lesson as we ride around Bellingham and mark the opening of Whatcom Museum’s JJ Donovan exhibit. Enjoy specialty treats at the Village Green after the ride. 1pm at Fairhaven Village Green. WEDNESDAY, JULY 31 Family Ride: Where’s Waldo?

Wear a red and white striped shirt and socks like Waldo and bike as a group to Village Books’ Where’s Waldo party for treats and prizes. 5:15pm at Depot Market Square.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 3 Family Ride: Family Bike Show & Tell

Take a trail ride to the City of Bellingham’s Kids Fest, a free family event with lots of activities and free food for everyone to enjoy. At the park, find the everybodyBIKE booth which will showcase an amazing display of trailers, child seats and trail-a bikes. Meet parents who bike regularly with their children and find out their tips and techniques for biking through the ages. 11am at the Barkley Haggen Gazebo.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 11: Roasters and Red Tails Hammerhead Coffee demonstrates coffee bean roasting to energize this ride around Ferndale. We’ll bike to Tenant Lake to learn about local birds from expert Jim Edwards. Begin at Hammerhead in Ferndale, or at Wild Bird Chalet in Bellingham. Enjoy cupcake tasting, too. Ride meets at 1pm at Greens Corner (Northwest Drive and Smith Road) in Ferndale, or for a longer ride, at 12 pm at Wild Bird Chalet in Bellingham. FRIDAY, AUGUST 16 Family Ride: Rock and Ride Meet local rock hounds and learn how a stone in the ground becomes a beautiful gem-like bead. We’ll bike from Bloedel Donovan Park to Whatcom Falls Park. Tentative date—check website for details. SUNDAY, AUGUST 25: Woods to Woods Choose from a self-guided

tour of all 14 Woods Coffee Shops or join us on social, paced, guided tour of three locations. On either ride, bikers will enjoy coffee and pastries at each Woods location. Social Ride meets at 1pm at Woods Coffee on Railroad Avenue.

Blue listings indicate a Family Ride. Find more details, times, and last-minute updates at everybodyBIKE.com or 360-671-BIKE. facebook.com/ summerrides

SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

THE LOCAL CRAG Rock climbing at Mt. Erie STORY AND PHOTOS BY IAN FERGUSON

f Ky Nayfield slips or loses his balance, he will fall 20 feet before the rope catches him and swings him back into the rock face. He’s got three square inches of contact holding him on the cliff: two from the rubber of his shoes, pasted into a vertical seam in the granite below him, and one from the fingertips of his left hand, crimped on a tiny horizontal edge. He’s focused only on clipping the rope into the carabiner hanging above his head. The cares of work and domestic life are so far in the back of his mind they might as well belong

to a different person or a past life. With a deft flick of the wrist, he clips the bolt. “Yeah, Ky!” yells Zach Bastow, who holds the rope on belay from the ground below. Ky breathes an inaudible sigh of relief, but it’s short-lived. He still has three bolts to go before he can break his concentration and appreciate the beauty of his surroundings. Far below, thick forests give way to green fields, then indigo lakes and bays alternating with emerald island hilltops all the way to the white-capped Olympic Range on the horizon. It’s a view unlike any other. Situated within the 2,800-acre Anacortes Community Forest Lands, Mt. Erie attracts thousands of visitors every year. Most drive or hike to the 1,200-foot summit for spectacular views on clear days of Mt. Baker, the San Juan Islands, the Olympic Range and Victoria, B.C. RV SaleS - SeRVice - RentalS A variety of sun-drenched rock faces, easy Now Offering MOBILE SERVICE! access and those same spectacular views make Consignments Needed! Mt. Erie a favorite cragging destination for the region’s rock climbers. 1400 Iowa St • Bellingham WA, 98229 “Cragging,” in the climbing world means 360-734-5112 • 800-891-5323 • www.vacationland-rv.com heading to a local cliff to climb multiple routes that aren’t particularly long or hard to get to. The nearby North Cascades are an alpine climber’s paradise: massive granite walls, technical alpine ascents and burly objectives, but climbing in those mountains is often a major commitment requiring a long approach and lots of training,

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preparation and gear. For an afternoon jaunt with friends, Mt. Erie is tough to beat. It is seldom crowded because most Seattle climbers frequent North Bend instead. It’s adventurous because crags are scattered and hidden among the trees. “It’s known as a place where you have to explore a little bit,” said Jason Martin, an American Alpine Institute guide who has been bringing clients to Mt. Erie for 15 years. “It’s on the edge of the rain shadow of the Olympics, so it’s often dry there when it’s raining in Bellingham,” he added. Most importantly, the climbing is fantastic. “I do believe it’s a little more technical than a lot of the other crags in Washington,” Martin said. “It’s got these small face holds, somewhat slabby, slick rock and there’s a wide variety of climbing.” Jim Thompson lives five minutes from the base of the crag. He started top roping at Mt. Erie in 1998, and now leads routes there with his wife and two sons. He’s writing an updated guidebook on the area, which is scheduled for release this summer and reportedly contains more than 400 climbs. For now, the only guidebook dedicated to the area is sold out, but can sometimes be found in hand-copied form at the Lake Erie Grocery on heart Lake Road in Anacortes. Author Dallas Kloke was among the first to explore the cliffs of Mt. Erie in the sixties. He was a well-loved and prolific local climber who continued climbing up until his death at the age of 71 in 2010. Another guidebook, “Weekend Rock: Washington” by David Whitelaw includes a section on Mt. Erie.

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Climbs at Mt. Erie range from third class scrambles, which the everyday hiker can manage without ropes (albeit dangerously) to Yosemite grade 5.14, which only the most experienced or talented climbers can climb. The Powerline Wall is popular because it’s easy to find and has a range of climbs from 5.7 – 5.10d. From the top parking lot, follow overhead power lines to the top of the cliff, then bear right on a path that curves around the right side of the climbing area. Once you’ve found the climbs, gear up, climb on and enjoy the view.

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THE BOYS OF GLACIER

The legacy of the Civilian Conservation Corps

BY JANET OAKLEY PHOTOS REPRODUCED AT THE NATIONAL ARCHIVES AT SEATTLE

ave you ever hiked to Heather Meadows and seen the warming hut up past the ski area? Stopped by the ranger station in Glacier to sign in or get a map? Picnicked at Douglas Fir or Silver Fir campgrounds? These places are what remains of work performed by young men enrolled in the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) during the Great Depression (1933 -1941). Many of these men came from some of the poorest, hardest places back East while others came from our own backyard.

Hard Times: Everything in Trouble

In 1933, the United States along with the rest of the world was in the terrible throes of the Great Depression. One in four men between the ages of 14 and 34 had no job, banks were failing and families were losing homes and farms. In addition to economic hardships, the country also suffered from decades of misuse of forests and other natural resources: dust storms on the Great Plains, over-logging in the Northwest and beetle infestations in the forests of the East. The country was on the verge of environmental calamity. Enter Franklin Delano Roosevelt. As New York State Governor during the depression’s early years, he spearheaded a jobs program for unemployed young men. As he was sworn into office as U.S. President on March 9, 1933, the idea of expanding the program nationwide was on his mind. On March 21, he gave a speech before Congress on the environment and unemployment. Six days later, the Emergency Conservation Work Act was introduced in Congress, signed into law on March 30 and enacted on April 5. The Civilian Conservation Corps was born.

The CCC at Mount Baker

On April 24, 1933, a crowd of 200 unemployed young men gathered at Whatcom County’s relief headquarters in downtown Bellingham to sign up for the CCC. Each hoped they would get one of the 160 eligible spots in Whatcom County, for it meant $30 a month of which 25 went to their families. Once they passed an Army physical and were given shots, they received their assignment to a camp. Work began on a local camp at Shuksan, 20 miles inside Mt. Baker National Forest’s western boundary on June 6. Forty-three LEMs (local experienced men, i.e. experienced woodsmen) cut trees for tent frames and a mess hall. On June 28 camp commander Lieutenant J.M. Montague arrived with thirty enrollees from Illinois. The camp was designated F-75. A month later their ranks rose to 200. During the summer and fall, the company worked largely on truck trails at Twin Lakes and Hannegan Pass, while some of the men felled trees, laid telephone lines and cut trail. In early November, the company moved to its permanent site on Mt. Baker Highway between Glacier and Maple

Falls. The camp’s name was Camp Glacier F-12, the site of the present day Mt. Baker Baptist Camp.

CCC Men At Play

From the beginning, enrollees at Camp Glacier, as they were called, worked on projects that supported the national forest’s improvement projects and eventually, the Mt. Baker Development Company’s plans. In addition to trail cutting and felling trees, the Forest Service approved a new ranger station at Glacier in the early 1930s and constructed the Church Mountain Lookout to spot forest fires, as well as a garbage pit and “Drown Your Cigarette” signs at Excelsior Camp and signage at Silver Fir. A Forest Service report from 1932 mentions a late July trip to Austin Pass in which recreation “improvements” were discussed, but things moved slowly in government back then as now. Not until April 1935 did work on USFS structures begin in earnest. The men constructed tables and benches at Silver Fir Forest Camp, a playground at Douglas Fir Camp and community kitchens at Galena and Silver Fir. In 1938, they built the long-awaited ranger station and then landscaped it. They also restored the vegetation at Heather Meadows. An interesting relation developed between the CCC camp and the skiers up on the slopes. The Austin Pass warming hut is the most outstanding example of the CCC work up on the mountain. In 1938, after years of planning, the project moved forward. The Mt. Baker Development Company offered lumber from their timber stand near Shuksan while the Mt. Baker National Forest forest supervisor stockpiled stone. Work on the building began in 1939 and finished the next year according to Forest Service records. During this time, CCC crews cleared a ski slope and built a ski jump in the Heather Meadows area. A photograph published in Company 2915 Camp Glacier’s annual shows the ski jump under construction. Camp Glacier alumni recall the men parked cars for skiers at the Mt. Baker Lodge. The local Camp Glacier paper, Bulldozer, published a news item in January 1939: “Winter sports fans and participants are reaping some real thrillers these days on the snowy slopes near Mt. Baker

Lodge. This ‘playground’ is often referred to as the ‘Switzerland of America.’ Those who have traveled much do not hesitate to pronounce it one of the most scenic spots they’ve ever visited. “Each week-end a group of boys from our camp are detailed to take charge of car parking and directing the crowds. So popular has this region become it is reported there have been many days when upwards of 300 cars arrived to be ‘parked,’ bringing a thousand or more persons to engage in the great recreation sport of skiing.” Camp Glacier and its company of 200 men had a lasting impact on the Mt. Baker Forest and the small communities nearby. First and foremost was the economic impact. A visitor to another CCC camp in Washington said these camps, run by the Army, were like a city. Increased traffic, delivery of goods and services and local hiring improved the lives of many in the area. Second was the social impact. Scores of young men were coming into Maple Falls to spend their five dollars or taking a trip into Bellingham socialized beyond the camp’s parade grounds. The camp commander at Glacier worked hard to make his camp present itself in a good light. To fulfill the desire to be on good terms with the community and the ever-present need for recreational opportunities, dances were often held at the camp. The local communities in Glacier and Maple Falls, especially the girls, seemed to enjoy this influx of young men. Girls were bused up to the camp for a dance at least once a month on Friday night. In the recreation room, an orchestra composed of CCC talent provided the music.

The Legacy of the CCC

Today, most of the CCC boys are gone, but the legacy of the Civilian Conservation Corps lives on throughout the United States. Even Hawaii and Alaska sport their own projects (Haleakula Crater on Maui, for example). As we remembered the 80th anniversary of its creation this April, those of us in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest can say a great thank you for the beautiful buildings, campgrounds and trail gifted us. X Janet Oakley’s award-winning novel, Tree Soldier, is set in a northwest CCC camp. Find it at Village Books in Fairhaven and online. SUMMER 2013 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

ENLIVEN YOUR

KAYAK PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOS AND STORY BY NEIL SCHULMAN

he days are long. The weather’s warm. Paddling beckons: mirror-smooth bays, foaming whitewater rivers, and the vast Pacific. As we venture into the watery part of the world, it’s time to confront an ugly truth: most kayaking photographs are boring. Inevitably, paddlers come back from every trip with images of tiny boats off in the distance, the bow of their kayak and some kayaks sitting on the beach. Few of these images capture the magic of paddling that captures us. As a photographer with a specialty in paddlesports, I’ve learned these tips you can use to add creativity to your photos.

Amidst all the technical mumbo-jumbo, we forget that photography is a means of communication. Technical skill is meaningless without something to say. Before you take out the camera, decide on a message. The fluid grace of a paddler at sunset? The knot of fear in your stomach before dropping into a big rapid? Exhaling as you leave the world of deadlines and email? If you can’t name it, you won’t be able to convey it in a photograph.

poor light can render the most incredible subject boring. Learn how light interacts with different kinds of subjects, how it cycles through the day and the weather and how to manage it. Because your camera sees light very differently than the human eye, understand how the camera’s light meter sees until it’s second nature.

Evoke, don’t narrate

Humans view photographs mostly in our midbrain, the instinctive part of our consciousness. We react to photos in fractions of a second based on a set of hard-wired visual cues passed down through millennia. Principles of composition go back to ancient Greece. Learn how to convey depth, motion and emotion in a two-dimensional still image. Learn the golden proportion, the golden spiral and the meanings of different lines, colors and spatial arrangements.

People, not cameras, take photos. Many of my best-selling images are taken with an inexpensive waterproof camera I keep in the pocket of my PFD. These cameras have more capability than most casual users realize. It’s vision and skill that make the difference.

Photographs don’t communicate in a linear way. Their power is in the ability to evoke an emotion, rather than narrating a story with a beginning, middle, and end. If linear storytelling is your goal, shoot video. Photographs communicate more through metaphor and visual cues. Think in terms of universals: exhilaration, wonder, fear, and mystery. Still images are like writing poetry to video’s prose.

Have a message

Understand light

It’s not the camera

Photographers babble endlessly about f-stops, HDR processing, and flash ratios.

Light is the raw material. Great light can make a mundane subject transcendent, and

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

Know the rules of visual language … and break them

But don’t be a slave to the “rules of composition.” I freely slant horizons, underexpose, or force the viewer’s eye somewhere

it doesn’t want to go when I want a visual tension that mimics the emotional tension I’m trying to evoke. After all, intensity and fear are inherent elements of paddlesports.

Move the camera

The single hardest thing about kayak photography is finding good camera positions. Unlike hikers, paddlers don’t climb ridges and descend into canyons. We’re always sitting on the water at the same height as our comrades, with a bow taking up space in front of us. Get creative. Scramble up rocks, lay down in tidepools, go for a swim. Get up close in rough water. Make it interesting however you can.

Above all, get out and shoot

Then edit ruthlessly, look at the work of others and shoot again. Develop your own vision. X Neil Schulman is a photographer and instructor based in Portland, Oregon. His clients include Adventure Kayak, The Oregonian, CanoeRoots, Canoe & Kayak, Alder Creek Kayak & Canoe, and Wild Coast Publishing. You can see his work at neilschulman.com/neilschulman2

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Summer music festivals on Highway 542 On winter mornings when the snow is dumping in the mountains, cars flow single file down the whole length of Highway 542 to get the goods. A similar effect happens periodically throughout the summer, especially when major musical acts perform at a few of the area’s biggest musical gatherings. Highway 542 hosts a variety of music festivals, and you might be surprised at some of the stars making the drive this summer.

East 542 Music Fest

July 12 and 13 Deming Log Show grounds Steve Augeri, former lead vocalist for Journey, and Fran Cosmo, former lead vocalist for Boston are two highlights at the 2nd annual East 542 Music Fest. The fest features renowned rock and country acts both local and international, but and a non-stop schedule of performers. Beer gardens, a mechanical bull, an international wood carving contest and a pancake breakfast are all on the docket. East 542 Music Fest provides a range of music from classic rock and country to popular dance music. Country star Jamie O’Neal was recently added to the lineup, and brings her soulful voice and captivating stage presence to the star-studded lineup. O’Neal has been nominated for four Grammy awards, and has toured with Reba McEntire, Kenny Chesney, Martina McBride, Alan Jackson and Toby Keith. Some of the nonprofits involved this year include local food banks, Mount Baker youth sports, Summit to Sound Search and Rescue and Allied Arts of Bellingham. Tickets for two-day admission are $85 for the bleachers and $95 for the concert bowl. Camping fees are $35 for non-hook up camping and $55 for hook up camping. Parking is $5. More info: 542musicfest.com

Mt. Baker Rhythm and Blues Festival

August 2–4 Deming Log Show grounds Get your fix of legendary blues acts at this year’s Mt. Baker Rhythm and Blues Festival. California Transit Authority, one of the festival headliners, is a powerhouse collaboration between Chicago cofounder and drummer Danny Seraphine and guitarist Marc Bonilla. Other acts you won’t want to miss include young superstar Hamilton Loomis and the virtuoso Kansas City trio Trampled Under Foot. The Blues Foundation honored the Mt. Baker Rhythm and Blues Festival with their 2013 Keeping the Blues Alive Award. A pass for the whole weekend, including camping and showers is $125. A Saturday pass is $65 and a Sunday pass is $60. More info: bakerblues.com

Subdued Stringband Jamboree

August 8–10 Deming Log Show grounds Since 2001, the Subdued Stringband Jamboree has featured all the best local string bands, “with a few blow-ins to kick us in the pants,” according to their website. Last year, Bellingham favorites Polecat performed alongside the likes of J Wagner, Pretty Little Feet, John Elliott and Cajun Country Revival. If you hanker for mighty fine pickin’ and singin’, this mellow festival is a can’t miss. Workshops, kids activities and food vendors round out the three days of festivities. Check the website for updates to this year’s lineup and prices. More info: stringbandjamboree. com X

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LOCALLY OWNED, GLOBALLY KNOWN Transition began over a game of Ping Pong PHOTO: KEVIN MENARD

STORY BY IAN FERGUSON

PHOTO: CARL BUCHANAN

he owners and employees of Transition, a Ferndale-based mountain bike company, are a funny bunch. Call their headquarters and the guy on the voicemail will walk you through the menu in a Hank Hill Texas drawl. Check the headshots on their website and you’ll witness face-making talent at an elite level. Walk into their office and you will be greeted by a Chihuahua and friendly designers, one of whom will most likely speak in a bad French accent. When it comes to mountain bike design, however, the people at Transition do not mess around. They have a 3-D printer in their office to give form to design ideas before mock-ups are turned into working prototypes that are vigorously tested before becoming final products. Transition bikes have won awards such as the “What Mountain Bike Magazine Connoisseur’s Choice 2012” for their Bandit 2 (see our Summer Gear Guide on page 24 for the latest model). They are known throughout the mountain-biking world for builds that are a pleasure to ride. The design of every Transition bike is rider-centric. Twenty-four professional team riders from around the world inform the design of each new model, as does every member of the Transition crew in Ferndale. The homepage of their website states “Rider owned for life,” and yes, owners Kevin Menard, Kyle Young and all Transition employees are prolific mountain bikers. They have dirt jumps and a pump track behind the office, and participate in mandatory rides pretty much every day. Young and Menard started the company in Seattle in 2001 while working for T-Mobile. “One day we were playing Ping-Pong on our break and I said, ‘We should start a bike company,’ and he said, ‘Yeah, I think we can do this.’ And we just literally, that easy, started it,” Menard said. “It was easy to start but not that easy to get it going.” Neither of them had an engineering degree, but they knew what they wanted in a bike. “We kind of relied on the factory’s engineer. We came up with specs, we would draw rudimentary pictures and they would make it work. Slowly

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SUMMER 2013

over time we started learning things like AutoCad and SolidWorks, geometry design and suspension kinematics.” After four years of working full time at T-Mobile and growing their company out of Menard’s basement, the pair got permission from their wives, quit their corporate jobs and moved the operation to Ferndale. “We were driving up here all the time to mountain bike so we said ‘let’s do Bellingham’,” Menard said. “Our wives were down with it, so there was no looking back. I don’t think we will ever move. We love it.” Transition frames are fabricated in Taiwan and assembled in Ferndale before being shipped to distributors around the world. The warehouse in Ferndale is a like a candy shop for bicycle gear heads. Buckets full of shiny new derailleurs, suspension forks, cassettes, cranks, handlebars and every other bike part – all from top-tier manufacturers such as Shimano and Fox – line the aisles and allow the Transition gurus to fulfill shop orders to a nearinfinite level of customization. “It’s a little time consuming, but it offers the most flexibility to the customer,” Menard said. Even with 120 dealers in the U.S. and nearly 50 in Canada, Menard said Transition actually sells slightly more than half its bikes to customers outside of North America. That global reputation came from years of serious design improvement. A wall in the office displays the frames of years past, and Menard said it is always a trip to see how far his company has come. “You look at the evolution of our bikes and you can tell we’ve learned a lot,” he said. “It comes from being rider-centric, riding a ton and riding at a high level, and being in tune with knowing what works and what doesn’t.” As seriously as they take their bike design, the Transition crew is equally committed to advocating for the local biking community in political issues such as trail access (see “Mountain Biking,” page 41). Amidst all that seriousness, they never forget to have a good time. “Last Christmas we bought everybody little 100cc pit bikes and we were tooling around outside the warehouse,” Menard said. “Some of the neighbors get annoyed with us, but it’s all good.” X

Where to buy

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MOUNTAIN BIKING IN BELLINGHAM PHOTO: KEVIN MENARD

A scene on the rise

STORY BY IAN FERGUSON

ver 50 miles of trails within the city limits and a growing trail network just south have already earned Bellingham a global reputation in the mountain bike community. Throw in 8,000 acres of recently purchased parkland, a massive core of dedicated trail builders and a planned stop on the Cascadia Dirt Cup enduro series, and you have the makings of a burgeoning scene.

skilled biker. Info and map: parks.wa.gov/parks. Trail builders from the Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition (WMBC) put in thousands of hours each year building, maintaining and adding to these trail networks. The passion, dedication and skill of WMBC trail builders translate into amazing trails free for all to use.

Things that are …

Public access to these and other local trail networks didn’t come easy. There was once a hallowed realm of steep trails between two logging roads on state Department of Natural Resources (DNR) land near the North Fork of the Nooksack River. Downhill bikers flocked there for endless shuttle runs on some of the fastest, gnarliest trails in the state of Washington. In 2012 the DNR shut the area down. The WMBC is still lobbying to open it back up. Galbraith went through its own access issues. When bikefriendly former owners Trillium Corporation sold Galbraith to Polygon Financial in 2009, it was only the outpouring of protest from hundreds of local mountain bikers that kept Polygon from canceling a long-standing recreational use agreement. “Opening up and keeping access is a marathon,” said WMBC president Matt Durand. “There’s no sprinting involved.” One access marathon that began in 2006 paid off in March 2013 when the county government approved the purchase of 8,884 acres of DNR land for the creation of a county park around Lake Whatcom. The land abuts Galbraith to the south, and includes the east side of 3,000-foot Stewart Mountain. Bikers played a major role in convincing the county council to approve the land transfer, and they have big plans for the future park.

PHOTO: JOHN SCURLOCK

PHOTO: KEVIN MENARD

A quick ride away from downtown, Galbraith Mountain is a free bike park on privately owned land where loggers coexist with bikers, equestrians, hikers and dog walkers. ‘Galby’ offers world class, bike specific single track and downhill trails for every level of rider. Here is a sampling: Ridge Trail, a cross-country/all mountain trail for all skill levels, follows a ridge towards the peak of Lookout Mountain, with views along the way. Crowd-pleasing SST starts near the top of Lookout Mountain, follows a roller coaster downhill route through two miles of varying terrain, and is so well-designed beginners can manage it while experts still enjoy it. Shawn’s Trail is more challenging, with narrow bridges and gnarly drops for advanced riders only. Info and map: ridegalbraith.com. Larrabee State Park in the Chuckanut Mountains just south of Bellingham offers the 6.6-mile Interurban Trail, a broad flat path for those who want to put some distance between themselves and the city. A climb to the top of Cleator Road brings bolder riders to the start of the Double Black Diamond trail. As the name implies, it’s steep and technical, with burly risk and handsome rewards for the intrepid,

Things that were …

Things that have not yet come to pass …

Local runners, hikers, equestrians and mountain bikers will bring their hopes for the park to meetings with park planners. “Hopefully we’ll see these really long, looping trails,” said Kevin Menard, who sits on the WMBC board and owns Transition Bike Company in Ferndale. “We’re hoping to create connectivity from downtown over to Galbraith and then to the new park land. We’re also hoping to see some downhill directional, mountain bike specific trails.” “We’re excited to help build an epic, nationally recognized recreation area,” Durand said. Another exciting turn for local bikers is the Cascadia Dirt Cup, a five-part enduro race series in Washington that will make a stop in Bellingham sometime at the end of this summer if pending permit applications are approved. Enduro is an emerging discipline that combines cross-country and downhill mountain bike racing on a course with a majority of downhill portions. The idea is to test a rider’s skill on technical downhill features, while also requiring endurance and fitness for the cross-country elements. Whatcom Events, a local organization that hosts fund raising shindigs such as the Ski to Sea race, announced in April that WMBC would be the beneficiary of funds from their annual Tour de Whatcom. In years past, the Tour de Whatcom has raised up to $20,000 for local nonprofits and businesses. Matt Durand said the WMBC is thrilled to be receiving the money, and may use it to fund their first full-time position. “With everything we’ve got going on around here, we’re going to need someone on the ground full time, directing trail builds, going to meetings and advocating for bikers,” he said. X

rn slope

Whitewater on the weste BY ERIC PARKER

he northwest corner of Washington encompasses some of the most rugged mountains in the northern Cascades and offers some of the best terrain for mountain biking, skiing, and hiking in the western states. Relatively few people know of the world-class rivers draining from our steep mountains. With a unique geological setting, large amounts of annual precipitation and easy access to many phenomenal rivers, the region is a great hub for whitewater kayaking. Water flows through the Cascades year round with seasonal floods in the fall and spring. Chris Tretwold is a local who has been paddling this region since 2001. “From March to August there is most likely a river of varying difficulties flowing at a good level somewhere up here,” he said. Three of the county’s finest waterways – the north and middle fork of the Nooksack and Clear Water Creek – flourish during these seasons. The north fork of the Nooksack gathers melt water from Nooksack Glacier on the eastern slope of Mt. Shuksan. From here, it flows through stark canyons, flows over the 88-foot Nooksack Falls, and bends through evergreen valleys with spectacular views of Mt. Baker. Breathtaking landscapes and a variety of grades from scenic Class I to technical Class IV make it an ideal river for water enthusiasts of all skill levels.

PHOTO: RHYS LOGAN

PHOTO: ERIC PARKER

THREE RIVERS

Paddlers searching for something a little spicier do not need to travel far. About 25 miles down Mt. Baker Highway and up Mosquito Lake Road, they will find the middle fork of the Nooksack. This stretch is steep, technical, and stacked with challenging rapids. When caught at the right flows, roughly 500–1000 cfs, this river is a Class V playground. The upper section of the river pumps through steep boulder gardens, while downstream the river narrows and flows through a tight gorge, filled with quality pool-drop-style rapids. Another Class V gem is Clearwater Creek, an exciting, low volume drainage that flows into the upper section of the Middle Fork Canyon. A small rib of sandstone among the surrounding andesitic rock valleys creates a unique style of river. The rapids are fast-paced waterslides with little flat water in between. Professional kayaker Fred Norquist, 23, describes it as “a bumpy luge through a steep sandstone track.” From put in to take out, this run is only 1.9 miles long but packs a punch, dropping nearly 700 feet with 31 distinct rapids. Tretwold summed up local whitewater well when he said, “I think Whatcom County is a great place to visit as a kayaking destination. If solitude is your thing, you probably won’t see another person on the river other than you and your friends. And using the county as a jumping off point to rivers across the border and to the south just makes sense.” X

PHOTO: TAIT TRAUTMAN

FIRST DESCENT “The name of the drop is Klahanie Falls, on Bear Creek. It’s a 5060 foot waterfall with a fast paced, technical lead in. The pool is questionably deep and the drop itself is very difficult. After watching Fred and Brendan drop, I was fired up.

I charged into powerful curling waves above the lip and what felt like a split second later, I was soaring down the falls to the pool below. I took two strokes down the drop, tossed my paddle, and braced for impact. After a substantial hit, I rolled up and was immediately overwhelmed with joy and adrenaline.

Fred originally scouted this falls about 2 years ago and it was on our radar ever since.”

— Eric Parker, 3rd descent 1st descent: Fred Norquist 2nd descent: Brendan Wells

PHOTO: JAY GOODRICH

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