BOY COUTURE X NASIR MAZHAR BUSINESS REPORT © Philippa Clare Bryant 2012 by Philippa Bryant

BOY COUTURE X NASIR MAZHAR

INVESTIGATIVE REPORTSTAGE ONE FASHION BRAND MARKETING & PROMOTION 16TH APRIL 2012

BY PHILIPPA BRYANT

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 7 METHODOLOGY 7 BRAND HISTORY 7 CURRENT MARKET POSITION 11 THE NEW BOY 11 BOY COUTURE 13 SWOT ANALYSIS 13 CONSUMER CONTEXT 17 KEY COMPETITORS & COMPARISON ANALYSIS 20 DIRECT: LONG 20 INDIRECT: SKATE BRANDS 22 MARKET TRENDS 23 PESTLE ANALYSIS 23 MICRO TRENDS 24 MARKETING TRENDS 24 PROPOSAL: BOY COUTURE X NASIR MAZHAR 27 MARKETING AIMS & OBJECTIVES 27 PRODUCT 27 PLACE 28 PRICE 28 VISUAL MERCHANDISING 33 BRANDING 33 CONCLUSION 34 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 36 LIST OF REFERENCES 37 BIBLIOGRAPHY 38

INTRODUCTION “From Punks and New Romantics, to club kids and fashionistas, Andy Warhol to Boy George,The Pet Shop Boys to Madonna, everybody has worn Boy” (Selfridges, 2012, Long X DJ and BOY London come to Selfridges London [online], 26/02/12). BOY is recognised as an iconic brand in London’s subculture, today experiencing a revival despite it’s downfall in the 80’s. The purpose of this report is to investigate product diversification for the niche brand. By identifying BOY’s current and potential market position, a valid marketing and promotional strategy can be devised in stage two. The aim of product diversification is to grow the brand more sustainably than in the past.

METHODOLOGY Research will begin by looking into the brands history and current market position. This information was acquired from secondary sources such as websites and blogs. Primary research was also acquired in the form of observation and questioning, by visiting stores and concessions which were immediately available in London. Further primary information was required to build a customer profile, including: surveys, street-style photos as well as customer and blog observation. This will enable the validity of the proposal to be tested amongst the target market. People who wear BOY were also targeted via Lookbook.nu, a global street-style network. Emails were sent with a link to the survey and a request for profile photos.

BOY was derived from Acme Attractions (Sullivan, 2001, p.315); a popular London brand which was run by Don Letts in 1975. Acme was located in a King’s Road basement and sold suits and jukeboxes whilst “pumping dub reggae all day long”. “It was the music, as much as what we were selling, that drew people. Acme was the coolest “club” in town, where the interaction between the different factions became more important than selling merchandise, even though at that age it was a deadly combination.” (Letts, 2001, ‘Dem crazy baldheads are my mates’ [online], 26/02/12) The hangout was a popular destination for famous bands such as The Clash, The Sex Pistols, Chrissie Hynde, Patti Smith, Deborah Harry and Bob Marley. Acme was also recognized by the likes of Marley as a destination for “black-market action” which led to a close relationship between Letts and his clients. Eventually, Letts’ friendship with the “crazy baldheads” as Marley called them, or Punks, came between them. Today, Letts is working with Fred Perry to create a series of documentaries. The series will track the unique relationship which Fred Perry has developed with British street style and subcultures (Fred Perry, 2012. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08, p. 55.)

Fig.2. Original BOY Store (2010) by Chris Church

BRAND HISTORY

1976 1978 1980

Stephane Raynor opened the BOY store on Kings Road, London Raynor briefly lent his hand to opening another famed store, PX Raynor returned his full focus to BOY LONDON. It was from here that the creative element of BOY came into its own and things started to go into the stratosphere. Fuelled by a constant desire for reinvention and a hunger to set innovative new styles and trends, BOY quickly became the most iconic and talked about label on the planet. 1985 The brand’s Parisian nightclub ‘CLUB BOY’ rose to notoriety as the most scandalous thing to hit the city in decades, before finally imploding in 1985 at the height of its notoriety. 1986-1989 The prominence of the label continued throughout the 80s, where trademark BOY tees were adopted as the uniform of choice for the acid house movement and the Ibiza explosion. At the height of its fame, BOY finally buckled beneath the numerical demands of an international buyers list that had spiralled out of control, causing the label to indefinitely close its books. 1990’s Word of mouth and a passion for the brand amongst those versed in its history kept the label alive throughout the nineties. In second hand stores and charity shops the world over, original BOY pieces became the most fetishised of finds. 2007 Rumours began to circulate that the legendary label was returning. Sure enough, Stephane’s latest venture, a store named SICK (located on Redchuch Street in the heart of East London), soon emerged and with it came the relaunch of BOY.

(BOY, 2012, WORDS [online], 10/04/12)

Fig.3. Product Life Cycle (2011) by Mr Dashboard

The product lifecycle is closely linked to the brand lifecycle. Because the brand’s success relied on a few statement products, the brand lasted as long as its product’s lifecycle’s. BOY quickly reached maturity and then declined rapidly after overexposure. In order for BOY to become a long-term success in the 21st century, it needs to consider extension strategies such as diversification to retain interest in the brand. Fig.4. Boy George (2012) by BOY London

CURRENT MARKET POSITION THE NEW BOY Today, BOY has re-established itself as an iconic London brand- worn by the likes of Chloë Sevigny and Jessie J. However, new technologies and blogging has lead to a new-found global recognition in areas such as Shibuya, Tokyo and LA- through collaboration with party photographer The Cobra Snake (BOY, 2012, BOY LONDON x THE COBRASNAKE [online], 31/03/12). BOY is very much alive at the heart of subculture, which has begun a new era musically and technologically. BOY currently resides on Redchurch Street in Shoreditch, London. The shop is run by Stephane Raynor who wishes to keep the store anonymous, naming it ‘Sick’ (Raynor, [Interview], 18/02/12). Their website leavetheboyalone.com was launched in June 2011. Most recently, BOY launched a concession in Selfridges on 15th February 2012. The launch featured DJ’s playing an exclusive 2 hour set plus free BOY merchandise giveaways (BOY, 2012, BOY LONDON SELFRIDGES [online], 26/02/12). The concession sits within the menswear denim & street department alongside brands such as Obey. The concession manager noted that the brand was the floors bestseller, increasing sales by 45% (Ridge, 2012. Look, Issue 19th March 2o12), and had been moved to the front due to Rihanna’s endorsement on The Jonathan Ross Show. In the UK, BOY is also stocked on websites such as Bitching & Junkfood. Globally, BOY is also stocked in alternative boutiques such as Candy, Tokyo and The Cobra Shop, LA. Other stockist locations include Taiwan, Belgium and Moscow (BOY, 2012, NEWS [online], 31/03/12).

Opposite: Fig.5. Sick (2012) by Philippa Bryant This Page: Fig.6. BOY Selfridges (2012) by BOY London

This Page: Fig.7. BOY Couture X Munroe Bergdorf (2012) by Lefteris Primos Opposite: Fig.8. BOY SWOT Analysis (2012) by Philippa Bryant

BOY COUTURE In February 2012, BOY couture was launched in collaboration with London DJ Monroe Bergdorf (Disorder Magazine, 2012, Munroe Bergdorf for BOY London [online], 24/03/12). The BOY jersey print is “integral to the brand” and was therefore used in new ways to give the brand “a twist, not a change” (Munroe Bergdorf, 2012, Munroe Bergdorf for BOY London [online], 24/03/12). The madeto-order premium pieces are targeted toward the alternative fashion-conscious female who relates to the BOY ethos and subculture.

SWOT ANALYSIS STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Strong brand heritage Strong celebrity/blog endorsement Unique brand identity easily recognized Iconic product offer

Small Ltd. businessmanagement issues Limited product offer No lifestyle imagery/photoshoots

Gap in the market for alternative fashion backpacks Global demand for BOY Designer collaborations

Overexposure Copyright Issues Economic Instability New Competition

Collaborations with London talent are important in retaining BOY’s presence and freshness in today’s market. The subcultural lifestyle which BOY emulates and celebrity endorsement is ultimately what drives demand for their products; however brand icons which feature slogans and logos can quickly go out of fashion. For this reason and also to stay ahead of competition, BOY should consider extension strategies such as diversifying into more product areas. This will retain excitement around the brand and reduce the risk of relying on few styles. With its iconic heritage, BOY has the potential to become the ultimate alternative brand in the middle market. All actions however, must be manageable for the small company and prices realistic to the customer.

PROMISE

ATTRIBUTES

ATTITUDE EASY TO WEAR STATUS TIMELESS

BRITISH- LONDON ORIGINAL DESIREABLE JERSEYWEAR & ACCESSORIES EXCLUSIVE MUSIC LIFESTYLE

BRAND ESSENCE LONDON CONTROVERSIAL PUNK ICONIC SLOGANS SUBCULTURE

SOURCE OF AUTHORITY HERITAGE ICON RECOGNIZABLE

PERSONALITY YOUTH ALTERNATIVE REBELLIOS CREATIVE ALICE DELALL

Fig.8a. BOY Brand Identity Model (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.8b. Alice Delall (2012) by Valentina

15 15

Fig.9. BOY Model and lead vocalist of Vuvuvultures, Harmony Boucher (2011) by Neil Anderson

CONSUMER CONTEXT Damien Wilson, Dr. Marten’s Creative Director: “The icons today are bloggers. Subculture is not dead, it’s just moving at a much faster rate and globally. It used to be that the Leeds kids looked different from the Liverpool kids. But now, someone in Tokyo with the same look or interests as someone in England can share their experiences online. We can only provide the heritage via goods but it’s up to them to make it theirs and that’s what’s happening. It’s not one thing with the skinheads any more: there are all sorts of people doing different things, and making their own subculture” (Wilson, 2012. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08, p. 45.)

Alternative choices are an integral aspect of the consumers’ lifestyle- stemming from a creative personality and a desire to stand out from the crowd. Back in its hay day, BOY was known for its Punk connotations. Punk was well-connected to youth culture; the music telling stories of rebellion. Alternative youth remains at the core of the brand’s ethos with music still at its roots. Modern alternative genres which are popular with today’s youth encapsulate aspects of traditional dub, mixed with modern electro in the form of ‘dub-step’. This subculture is prevalent amongst the creativity and culture of London’s East-end. BOY projects the lifestyle through such mediums as promotional ‘club’ events, DJ collaborations and model choice.

Subcultures are dispersed across the UK- typically found in urban city locations such as Manchester, Leeds and London, where creative students and youth segments largely reside. BOY is also popular with Eastern youth such as in Tokyo, Japan- a region which regularly looks to Britain as a source of fashion inspiration.

The customer is young, creative and entrepreneurial. The Guardian wrote about this segment in an article titled ‘the rise of the ‘slasher’’. A ‘slasher’ is another name for the ‘portfolio careerist’: someone with multiple job roles such as hairdresser/singer, as one survey respondent answered. This is also a reflection of the times: “the recession has led many individuals to take on multiple roles as a form of safe-keeping their own incomes” (David Lurie, 2011, Graduate job seeking: The rise of the ‘slasher’ [online], 31/03/12).

Age: 18 Occupation: student/model How would you describe your look?

Dark with a feminine twist

Who/what is your biggest fashion influence?

Daphne Guinness

What is your favourite music?

Blues, electronic and indie/dream pop

What are your favourite magazines?

i-D, The Last Magazine and Vogue

What are your favourite brands other than BOY?

Tom Ford and Evil Twin

What do you like to do in your spare time?

Modelling and blogging

What would you think about a BOY â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bondageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; backpack by Nasir Mazhar, would you buy it?

Absolutely it sounds like a delicious collaboration

Opposite: Fig.10. BOY Customer (2011) by Lauren Bejaoui. This Page, Top: Fig.11. Shabba Party (2011) by BOY London. Bottom: Fig.12. Club BOY (2011) by BOY London

KEY COMPETITORS & COMPARISON ANALYSIS Subcultural brands remain to be a niche market, which is evident through their lack of presence of the UK High Street. The target consumer typically seeks alternative brands online or is exposed to them through blogs and other social networks. For this reason, BOY’s competitors reside more so in the online world, but can also be found in independent boutiques in urban areas.

DIRECT: LONG Aesthetically and geographically, BOY’s closest competitors are LONG. Their oversized, unisex styles match BOY’s ‘one-size-fits-all’ look. Their music events and collaborations have affirmed their status as “one of London’s most exciting and iconic youth brands” (Long Clothing, 2012, About [online], 24/03/12). LONG has even collaborated with BOY, perhaps to appear more authentic since the company was only established in 2008. BOY’s motives for this collaboration however, are not so obvious. LONG is stocked in various boutiques across the UK and also across the globe. The main difference between the two brands is that LONG’s designs consist of different symbols- they do not use a continuous logo like BOY. The collection is restricted to jersey t-shirts, vests and hoodies like BOY, yet with a wider range of designs. The BOY logo which is so successful is also a limiting factor in terms of design. BOY needs to use their logo in new ways beyond the tried and tested t-shirt and caps, in order to stay ahead of competitors such as LONG.

Opposite, Left: Fig.13. Live Long (2012) by Long Clothing Right: Fig.14. VII by Long (2012) by Long Clothing This Page: Fig.15. Supreme Consumer Style (2012) by India Rose

This Page: Fig.16. Kate Moss for Supreme (2012) by Angelo Baque Opposite, Top: Fig.17. BOY PESTLE Analysis (2012) by Philippa Bryant Bottom: Fig.18. Supreme Harmonica (2012) by Supreme

INDIRECT: SKATE BRANDS Indirect competitor brands discovered through the blog site ‘Tumblr’ include Obey, Supreme, Only and Stussy which are US street brands. These brands, like BOY, rely on their text logos to represent a certain lifestyle. Although the image of these brands is more ‘skater’ or ‘street artist’, the creative brand origins are still appealing to the BOY target customer, which is evident through consumer blogs. Unlike BOY, these brands have an extended product offer. The collections consist of t-shirts, sweaters and hats; however other items include bags, books, jewellery and even a harmonica! As a lifestyle brand, BOY needs to consider adding different products to the range. Notably, Supreme has used Kate Moss as a model for their SS12 campaign and collaborated with Comme des Garçons (Dover Street Market, 2012, What’s New [online], 24/03/12). This move shows that Supreme has noticed a gap in the market for catwalk-inspired products, whilst retaining their brand credentials. This could be influenced by the middle-market squeeze: brands ‘trade-up’ as a result of the recession to provide added value to their customer.

MARKET TRENDS PESTLE ANALYSIS POLITICAL

ECONOMIC

SOCIAL

TECHNOLOGY

LEGAL

ENVIRONMENTAL

Occupy movement

Dissatisfaction with capitalism Rebellion- 2011 riots

Recession

The Internetblogs and mobile devices

Sustainability- cotton

This quote perfectly summarises macro trends which have lead to the resurrection of BOY London and new brands such as LONG Clothing. Through observation, cult-like blogs and followers convey an almost antichrist ideal: representing dissatisfaction with society, capitalism and recession. The internet acts as a creative outlet, which is why this subculture is so dominant online. Rebellion and an increased interest in secret societies are prevalent in today’s most extreme subcultures, the equivalent to Punk in the 70’s. BOY’s strong heritage will play a big part in it’s survival during tough economic times, as consumers seek and quality. authenticity and copyright Sustainability issues will be particularly relevant to the brand. Consumers are becoming more aware of the impact that the cotton industry and ‘fakes’ has on the world. As the majority of BOY’s products are made from cotton, they will need to consider cotton alternatives. Even if this is not the customer’s interest, it will be significant to the company as cotton prices rise. The products will need to be intricately unique and inimitable, therefore evoking authenticity and desirability.

“For the first time in decades, popular culture is again at ground zero. The freefalling economic collapse of the western world has exposed the inevitable shortcomings of the consumerist ideal. As a result, society reacts with increasing vigour and violence against notions of decadence and frivolity, forcing many to explore alternative means of escapism to transcend the everyday. Currently a fascination with ‘otherness’ permeates, and a generation too rational for god, but optimistic enough to have ‘faith’ begins it’s first steps towards shaping new and esoteric belief systems.” (William Wright, 2010, New Range now in store! [online], 31/03/12)

MICRO TRENDS

Backpacks are making a comeback and as a result, as observed on the street and on blogs, more styles are starting to appear. The practicality of this style makes it highly popular to students and London commuters alike- BOY’s target customer. Macro trends see opportunity for more extreme, rebellious and fashion-led styles in the middle market. Already, there are some high end backpacks with a fashion focus such as Visvim’s selling at ¥79,910 JPY, approximately $978 USD (Skerman, 2012, Visvim 20L Backpack for the BLACK SENSE MARKET [online], 10/04/12), and Eastpak’s £180 version. However, there is scope for more fashionable styles in the middle market- as demonstrated by Supreme. BOY could exploit its unique brand identity and history within the fashion backpack market.

MARKETING TRENDS In marketing, the prevalent trends are digital and mobile, especially within the youth market. This includes things such as QR codes, blogs, social networks and mobile-optimized sites: therefore these factors will be important considerations when promoting the concept. However, Supreme’s SS12 campaign has been promoted more traditionally with street-art style posters in urban locations. This highlights the importance of relating to brand origins and such methods are probably more cost effective for BOY.

Opposite, Left: Fig.19. Alternative Backpack (2012) by Philippa Bryant Middle: Fig.20. London Backpack (2012) by Philippa Bryant Right: Fig.21. Tube Backpack, Jansport (2012) by Philippa Bryant This Page: Fig.22. Rick Genest QR Illustration (2011) by Yiying Lu

Fig.22. Nasir Mazhar AW12 Backpacks (2012) by Jessica Bumpus

PROPOSAL: BOY COUTURE X NASIR MAZHAR MARKETING AIMS & OBJECTIVES The proposal is to extend and diversify the BOY brand into a range of covetable backpacks. By adopting the backpack trend, merged with alternative British design talent could see a desirable addition to the brands product portfolio. The aim of marketing activity will be to strengthen the brand identity for current customers whilst also penetrating the backpack market with a solid USP. The unique designs may also bring new customers to the brand. This concept will establish the brand as being more than just a ‘one trick pony’ with the potential to become the ultimate alternative brand in this niche middle market.

The USP of this range is that it will be exploiting the design ethos which is unique to BOY, integrating controversial elements such as bondage. The bags will be highly covetable not only amongst current BOY customers, but other fashionistas in the alternative blogosphere. A suitable collaboration would be with a London based designer who is known for creating innovative and edgy designs, such as Nasir Mazhar (London Fashion Week, 2012, Nasir Mazhar [online], 21/03/12). The accessories designer is best known for his box peak cap creations and has recently included a selection of quirky bags and backpacks in the AW12 collection exhibited at London Fashion Week. The aesthetic of his designs sits well with BOY’s punk roots and subculture style. Mazhar was awarded the Emerging Accessories Designer at the British Fashion Awards 2011 (London Fashion Week, 2012, Nasir Mazhar SS12 Press Release [online], 21/03/12) and has created pieces for the likes of Lady Gaga. He has been named by Vogue as “a sartorial spokesperson for grime - not to mention London’s particular breed of fresh young talent” (Vogue, 2011, Nasir Mazhar [online], 21/03/12). By keeping the collaboration limited, retains the companies interest in remaining exclusive whilst maintaining excitement around the brand. Backpacks, being appropriate for all, will also suit the ‘one size fits all’ unisex ethos of BOY.

PRODUCT

PLACE The aim will be to fortify the brand before expanding globally, by focussing efforts primarily in the UK. The limited collection of backpacks will be sold in the Shoreditch store, on the website and also in Selfridges concessions across the UK due to the brands success in London. The collection could also be available on ASOS, making the range more accessible to fashion-conscious internet shoppers who are influenced by blogs. The backpacks may also be available to a limited selection of global stockists such as Candy, Tokyo- thus establishing the brands accessories within existing global markets whilst focussing core marketing activity in the UK.

PRICE

A pricing technique of market penetration will capture the target customers’ attention- charging lower prices than high-end aspirational brands and designers (Easey, 2009, p.191). Prices will be between £50-100 per bag, positioning the product within the middle-upper market between backpack brands MadPax and Visvim. However, these will be high-fashion pieces within the middle market- a far cry from the likes of Eastpak.

Fig.23. £180, Eastpak (2012) by Eastpak

Fig.24. £70, Jansport (2012) by Jansport

Fig.25. £82, Kipling (2012) by Selfridges

Fig.26. £40, MadPax (2012) by Selfridges

Fig.27. £25, Topshop (2012) by Topshop

Fig.28. ¥79,910 JPY, Visvim (2012) by James Skerman

Fig.29. Eastpak by Kris Van Assche (2011) by Eastpak Overleaf: Fig.30. Nasir Mazhar SS12 (2011) by Daniella Maiorano

This Page, Top: Fig.32. BOY Staffroom (2012) by BOY London; Bottom: Fig.31. BOY Shop (2012) by BOY London; Opposite, Top: Fig.33. BOY Label (2012) by Philippa Bryant; Bottom: Fig.34. leavetheboyalone.com (2012) by BOY London

VISUAL MERCHANDISING The Shoreditch store ‘Sick’ stays true to the non-conforming spirit of BOY. Not a conventional shop as found on the high street, Sick is a niche store with an ‘anything goes’ ad-hoc approach. This approach is not typically attractive to the average person, only the target costumer appreciates the underground environment. It is more than a store, but a “continually shape shifting whirlwind of basement parties, living art instillations and design studios” (BOY, 2012, WORDS [online], 10/04/12). The outdated mannequins in provocative positions and attire project attitude- a “no image, no style, no bullshit” approach, as quoted by The Face magazine (Oliver, 2012. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08, p. 184).

BRANDING The current logo, as appears on product labels, is a monochrome eagle. Text is in black/white block capitals, set on a contrasting background. The simple, bold lettering evokes a ‘no-frills’ aesthetic with attitude, suiting the brand perfectly- what you see is what you get. These aspects will remain crucial to retaining brand recognition.

Images used on the website reflect the monochrome colour palette which is so vital to the brand. Models and products are photographed against a plain white background with no colour, only a hint of red nail polish or tattoos. The model poses and general aesthetic is very moody and minimalist, projecting a gothic punk vibe. Currently there are no lookbooks or photoshoot images, which could benefit in communicating the brands lifestyle to both existing and new customers.

Fig.35. BOY Store (2012) by BOY London

CONCLUSION The research has established that BOY needs to diversify into new product areas; to maintain brand interest and grow the brand sustainably. A gap in the middle market for niche backpacks is an ideal opportunity- enabling the brand to build upon its strengths whilst overcoming weaknesses in product offer, therefore staying ahead of threats. Having identified the BOY customer and their lifestyle, an appropriate promotional strategy can be compiled in stage two. Promotional activities will include emails to current customers, press packs sent to appropriate magazines such as i-D and brand-appropriate forms of guerrilla marketing. Imagery will be more fashion lifestyle orientated, whilst retaining musical connections by using alternative musicians as models. Fashion bloggers will be a particularly important consideration, exposing BOYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion credentials to a suitable audience. The choice of blogger will therefore be highly important.

2,689 Words

Fig.36. Candy Lookbook (2011) by Ayako Kichikawa

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fig.1. Cover Image (2011) by Svetlana Woods Fig.2. Original BOY Store (2010) by Chris Church Fig.3. Product Life Cycle (2011) by Mr Dashboard Fig.4. Boy George (2012) by BOY London Fig.5. Sick (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.6. BOY Selfridges (2012) by BOY London Fig.7. BOY Couture X Munroe Bergdorf (2012) by Lefteris Primos Fig.8. BOY SWOT Analysis (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.8a. BOY Brand Identity Model (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.8b. Alice Delall (2012) by Valentina Fig.9. BOY Model and lead vocalist of Vuvuvultures, Harmony Boucher (2011) by Neil Anderson Fig.10. BOY Customer (2011) by Lauren Bejaoui Fig.11. Shabba Party (2011) by BOY London Fig.12. Club BOY (2011) by BOY London

Fig.13. Live Long (2012) by Long Clothing Fig.14. VII by Long (2012) by Long Clothing Fig.15. Supreme Consumer Style (2012) by India Rose Fig.16. Kate Moss for Supreme (2012) by Angelo Baque Fig.17. BOY PESTLE Analysis (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.18. Supreme Harmonica (2012) by Supreme Fig.19. Alternative Backpack (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.20. London Backpack (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.21. Tube Backpack, Jansport (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.21a. Rick Genest QR Illustration (2011) by Yiying Lu Fig.22. Nasir Mazhar AW12 Backpacks (2012) by Jessica Bumpus Fig.23. £180, Eastpak (2012) by Eastpak Fig.24. £70, Jansport (2012) by Jansport Fig.25. £82, Kipling (2012) by Selfridges Fig.26. £40, MadPax (2012) by Selfridges Fig.27. £25, Topshop (2012) by Topshop Fig.28. ¥79,910 JPY, Visvim (2012) by James Skerman Fig.29. Eastpak by Kris Van Assche (2011) by Eastpak Fig.30. Nasir Mazhar SS12 (2011) by Daniella Maiorano

Fig.31. BOY Shop (2012) by BOY London Fig.32. BOY Staffroom (2012) by BOY London Fig.33. BOY Label (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig.34. leavetheboyalone.com (2012) by BOY London Fig.35. BOY Store (2012) by BOY London Fig.36. Candy Lookbook (2011) by Ayako Kichikawa

LIST OF REFERENCES (Selfridges, 2012, Long X DJ and BOY London come to Selfridges London [online], 26/02/12) (Sullivan, 2001, p.315) (Letts, 2001, ‘Dem crazy baldheads are my mates’ [online], 26/02/12) (Fred Perry, 2012. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08, p. 55.) (BOY, 2012, WORDS [online], 10/04/12) (BOY, 2012, BOY LONDON x THE COBRASNAKE [online], 31/03/12) (Raynor, [Interview], 18/02/12) (BOY, 2012, BOY LONDON SELFRIDGES [online], 26/02/12) (Ridge, 2012. Look, Issue 19th March 2o12)

(Disorder Magazine, 2012, Munroe Bergdorf for BOY London [online], 24/03/12) (Munroe Bergdorf, 2012, Munroe Bergdorf for BOY London [online], 24/03/12) (Wilson, 2012. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08, p. 45.) (David Lurie, 2011, Graduate job seeking: The rise of the ‘slasher’ [online], 31/03/12) (Long Clothing, 2012, About [online], 24/03/12) (Dover Street Market, 2012, What’s New [online], 24/03/12) (William Wright, 2010, New Range now in store! [online], 31/03/12) (Skerman, 2012, Visvim 20L Backpack for the BLACK SENSE MARKET [online], 10/04/12) (London Fashion Week, 2012, Nasir Mazhar [online], 21/03/12) (London Fashion Week, 2012, Nasir Mazhar SS12 Press Release [online], 21/03/12) (Vogue, 2011, Nasir Mazhar [online], 21/03/12) (London Fashion Week, 2012, Nasir Mazhar- Biography [online], 21/03/12) (Easey, 2009, p.191) (BOY, 2012, WORDS [online], 10/04/12) (Oliver, 2012. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08, p. 184)

(BOY, 2012, NEWS [online], 31/03/12)

BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS EASEY, M. 2009. Fashion Marketing. Chichester: Wiley-Blackwell FRINGS, G. S. 2008. Fashion: From concept to consumer. New Jersey: Pearson Prentice Hall SULLIVAN, C. 2001. Punk. London : Cassell & Co ARTICLES FRED PERRY, 2012. Tell us your story. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08 (April 2012) p. 55 OLIVER, W. 2012. Skinheads in make-up and other outsiders. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08 (April 2012) p. 184 RIDGE, S. 2012. Rihanna sparks a BOY London revival. Look, Issue 19th March 2012 SAXELBY, R. 2012. Ready to Fly. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08 (April 2012) p. 112 WILSON, D. 2012. New old guard. Dazed & Confused, Vol III/08 (April 2012) p. 45

ADDITIONAL SOURCES

WEBSITES BOY, 2012. BOY LONDON SELFRIDGES. Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/article/85/BOY%20 LONDON%20SELFRIDGES Accessed 26/02/12 BOY, 2012. BOY LONDON x THE COBRASNAKE. Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/article/62/BOY%20 LONDON%20X%20THE%20COBRASNAKE Accessed 31/03/12 BOY, 2012. NEWS. Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/news/ Accessed 31/03/12 BOY, 2012. WORDS. Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/words/ Accessed 10/04/12 DAVID LURIE, 2011. Graduate job seeking: The rise of the ‘slasher’. Available at: http://careers.guardian.co.uk/careersblog/graduate-job-seeking-the-rise-of-the-slasher Accessed 31/03/12 DISORDER MAGAZINE, 2012. Munroe Bergdorf for BOY London. Available at: http://disordermagazine.com/munroebergdorf-boy-london/style/ Accessed 24/03/12 DOVER STREET MARKET, 2012. What’s New. Available at: https://shop.doverstreetmarket.com/ Accessed 24/03/12 EASTPAK, 2012. Eastpak Artist Studio. Available at: http://artiststudio.eastpak.com/ Accessed 31/03/12 JANSPORT, 2012. Limited Edition. Available at: http://jansport.com/js_product_thumb.php?cid=2500 Accessed 31/03/12 LETTS, D. 2001. ‘Dem crazy baldheads are my mates’. Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/culture/2001/ oct/24/artsfeatures4 Accessed 26/02/12 LONDON FASHION WEEK, 2012. Nasir Mazhar. Available at: http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/nasirmazhar Accessed 21/03/12 LONDON FASHION WEEK, 2012. Nasir Mazhar- Biography (PDF). Available at: http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/ nasirmazhar Accessed 21/03/12

LONDON FASHION WEEK, 2012. Nasir Mazhar SS12 Press Release (PDF). Available at: http://www.londonfashionweek. co.uk/designers/documents/doc_3186.pdf Accessed 21/03/12 LONG CLOTHING, 2012. About. Available at: http://www.longclothing.com/about Accessed 24/03/12 MUNROE BERGDORF, 2012. Munroe Bergdorf for BOY London. Available at: http://disordermagazine.com/munroebergdorf-boy-london/style/ Accessed 24/03/12 SELFRIDGES, 2012. Long X DJ and BOY London come to Selfridges London. Available at: http://style.selfridges.com/ whats-on/long-x-dj-and-boy-london-come-selfridges-london Accessed 26/02/12 SKERMAN, J. 2012. Visvim 20L Backpack for the BLACK SENSE MARKET. Available at: http://hypebeast. com/2012/04/visvim-20l-backpack-for-the-black-sense-market/ Accessed 10/04/12 VOGUE, 2011. Nasir Mazhar. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2012/ready-to-wear/ nasir-mazhar Accessed 21/03/12 WILLIAM WRIGHT, 2010. New Range now in store! Available at: http://www.longclothing.com/article/118/New%20 Range%20now%20in%20store Accessed 31/03/12

INTERVIEWS RAYNOR, S., 2012. Founder of BOY London: Interview with Stephane Raynor, Sick- Redchurch Street, 18/02/12

IMAGES ANDERSON, N. 2011. BOY Model and lead vocalist of Vuvuvultures, Harmony Boucher [photo] Available at: http://www. leavetheboyalone.com/article/77/VUVUVULTURES Accessed 12/04/12

BEJAOUI, L. 2011. BOY Customer [photo] Available at: http://lookbook.nu/look/2199133-I-do-this-everyday-I-do-thisdaily-everyday-I-do-this-More Accessed 12/04/12 BOY LONDON 2012. Boy George [photo] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/photo.php Accessed 10/04/12 BOY LONDON 2012. BOY Selfridges [photo] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/article/87/BOY%20LONDON%20SELFRIDGES%20PICS Accessed 12/04/12 BOY LONDON 2012. BOY Shop [photo] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/photo.php Accessed 12/04/12 BOY LONDON, 2012. BOY Staffroom [photo] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/photo.php Accessed 12/04/12 BOY LONDON 2012. BOY Store [photos] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/store/index.php?main_ page=index&cPath=1 Accessed 12/04/12 BOY LONDON 2011. Club BOY [photo] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/article/76/CLUB%20BOY:%20 SHABBA%20PARTY%20PICS Accessed 12/04/12 BOY LONDON 2012. leavetheboyalone.com [photo] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/ Accessed 12/04/12 BOY LONDON 2011. Shabba Party [photo] Available at: http://www.leavetheboyalone.com/article/76/CLUB%20 BOY:%20SHABBA%20PARTY%20PICS Accessed 12/04/12 BRYANT, P. 2012. Alternative Backpack [photo] by Philippa Bryant

BAQUE, A. 2012. Kate Moss for Supreme [photo] Available at: http://www.freshngood.com/2012/02/kate-moss-forsupreme-springsummer-2012-street-campaign/kate-moss-supreme-ss-2012-01/ Accessed 12/04/12

BRYANT,P. 2012. BOY Brand Identity Model [diagram] by Philippa Bryant BRYANT, P. 2012. BOY Label [photo] by Philippa Bryant BRYANT, P. 2012. BOY PESTLE Analysis [table] by Philippa Bryant BRYANT, P. 2012. BOY SWOT Analysis [table] by Philippa Bryant BRYANT, P. 2012. London Backpack [photo] by Philippa Bryant BRYANT, P. 2012. Sick [photo] by Philippa Bryant BRYANT, P. 2012. Tube Backpack, Jansport [photo] by Philippa Bryant BUMPUS, J. 2012. Nasir Mazhar AW12 Backpacks [photo] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumnwinter-2012/ready-to-wear/nasir-mazhar Accessed 12/04/12 CHURCH, C. 2010. Original BOY Store [photo] Available at: http://costumeofprovocation.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/ boy-london-pre-camp-overload.html Accessed 12/04/12 EASTPAK 2012. £180, Eastpak [photo] Available at: http://www.selfridges.com/en/Accessories/Categories/Travelluggage/Backpacks-messenger-bags/Eastpak-Nicomede-Talavera-backpack-44cm_193-84022787-EK859/ Accessed 12/04/12 EASTPAK 2011. Eastpak by Kris Van Assche [photo] Available at: http://krisvanassche.eastpak.com/2011/ Accessed 12/04/12

JANSPORT 2012. £70, Jansport [photo] Available at: http://www.jansport.com/js_product_detail. php?cid=1&pid=TYP7 Accessed 12/04/12 KICHIKAWA, A 2011. Candy Lookbook (photos) Available at: http://feature.faketokyo.com/?p=1145 Accessed 12/04/12 LONG CLOTHING, 2012. Live Long [photo] Available at: http://www.longclothing.com/t-shirts/Command-LongSleeve/120/ Accessed 12/04/12 LONG CLOTHING, 2012. VII by Long [photo] Available at: http://www.longclothing.com/t-shirts/VII-(W)/60/ Accessed 12/04/12 LU, Y. 2011. Rick Genest QR Illustration [illustration] Available at: http://www.yiyinglu.com/?portfolio=meets-obsessionfashion-illustration Accessed 12/04/12 MAIORANO, D. 2011. Nasir Mazhar SS12 [photo] Available at: http://www.thefblog.com/2011/09/nasir-mazhar.html Accessed 21/03/12 MR DASHBOARD 2011. Product Life Cycle [diagram] Available at: http://www.mrdashboard.com/Product_Life_Cycle. html Accessed 31/03/12 PRIMOS, L. 2012. BOY Couture X Munroe Bergdorf [photo] Available at: http://www.planetnotion.com/2012/02/10/ new-fabulousness-alert-munroe-bergdorf-for-boy-couture/ Accessed 12/04/12 ROSE, I. 2012. Supreme Consumer Style [photo] Available at: http://indiaroseblog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/swims. html Accessed 25/03/12 SELFRIDGES 2012. £40, MadPax [photo] Available at: http://www.selfridges.com/en/Accessories/Brand-rooms/Luggage/MADPAX/Spiketus-Rex-backpack-black_193-3002289-FULLIGOTYOURBLACK/ Accessed 12/04/12 SELFRIDGES 2012. £82, Kipling [photo] Available at: http://www.selfridges.com/en/Accessories/Categories/Travelluggage/Backpacks-messenger-bags/Kipling-Jabibo-backpack-43cm_193-3000656-K24079/ Accessed 12/04/12 SKERMAN, J. 2012. ¥79,910 JPY, Visvim [photo] Available at: http://hypebeast.com/2012/04/visvim-20l-backpackfor-the-black-sense-market/ Accessed 10/04/12

SUPREME 2012. Supreme Harmonica [photo] Avaialble at: http://www.supremenewyork.com/ Accessed 24/03/12 TOPSHOP 2012. ÂŁ25, Topshop [photo] Available at: http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductD isplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&productId=4862527&langId=-1&sort_field=R elevance&categoryId=208548&parent_categoryId=204484&pageSize=20&refinements=category~[209977|208548 Accessed 12/04/12 VALENTINA 2012. Alice Delall [photo] Available at: http://tspots.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/alice-dellal.html Accessed 12/04/12 WOODS, S. 2011. Cover Image [photo] Available at: http://svetlanawoods.wordpress.com/2011/12/16/boy-london/ Accessed 12/04/12