URBAN OUTFITTERS
AW12 VM PROPOSAL
Contents INTRODUCTION BUSINESS TRENDS IN STORE PRESENTATION CIRCULATION WINDOWS & TIMING PROMOTIONAL ACTIVITY CONCLUSION
Philippa Bryant FASH30059
Introduction
Business Trends
The purpose of this study is to propose a Visual Merchandising theme in accordance with Urban Outfitters’ brand identity for AW12. Suggestions will be made on how product is merchandised in windows and within store whilst considering timing and promotional activity. To realise this aim, development of suitable themes will be recorded in the supporting scrapbook, detailing ideas for fixtures, fittings, windows and overall environment.
Sustainability is not just a trend, but a lifestyle: as a consequence, retailers are becoming increasingly socially and environmentally aware. This translates into reclaimed props, preservation of architecture and giving back to less fortunate communities (Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11).
“Visual Merchandising can make a huge difference to any product area, transforming products and departments into an entirely new experience for the consumer. The Visual Merchandising arena must be allowed to change and adapt over time; by its nature it is transient and must reflect the latest trends as well as the retailer’s values.” (Din, 2000, p.94) In order to create a valid proposal, research was gathered from a variety of primary and secondary sources. Primarily, the Retail Design Collective conference was attended to identify key business trends. VM trends in London and New York were recorded photographically. Further resources included The Designer Forum, WGSN and ddionline.com. In order to develop identified trends in accordance with the brand, a scrapbook was compiled which featured annotated photographs, magazine and catalogue clippings.
In New York, Urban Outfitters was the first to relocate to lower 5th Avenue. Retailers such as Ted Baker have since followed suit, now being a trendier destination. By considering store locations which lie outside the typical box, they regenerate communities. They also respect the architecture by preserving original features and becoming integrated with the spirit of the neighbourhood (Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11). Businesses are now developing concepts which are based entirely on this trend. Treasure & Bond is an experimental Nordstrom concept where all profits are donated to charity. Fixtures are reclaimed from old Nordstrom stock and can also be bought (VMSD, 2011, p.28). With the development of the internet, stores are also becoming ‘showrooms’ for online retail. This requires that stores are easily navigated through clear and compelling VM, whilst creative use of mannequins and tactile experiences add interest (Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11). Fig. 1. UO New York (2011) by DDI online
In Store Presentation Merchandising In Urban Outfitters; clothing, shoes and accessories are to be displayed together in trend themed outfits, communicating their “lifestyle approach” (Din, 2000, p. 94). Departments should also be designated in accordance with ‘good’, ‘better’ and ‘best’ ranges, with higherpriced ranges toward the rear of the store so not to deter young customers. Clothing will hang on wooden hangers (trousers fully hung), unless t-shirts and jeans are folded on tables alongside jewellery, accessories and even books. ‘Lifestyle tables’ and gondolas should be positioned near the entrance and around the store as points of interest. Shoes are displayed on a bottom shelf which is part of the gondola, or alternatively on a table in a destination ‘shoe lounge’ area with sofa. Knitwear specifically, is to be presented sidefacing as part of outfits on gondolas. During the AW12 season, detailed fashion knitwear is to be front-facing on wall units near the entrance, as a focal point on store entry. Knitwear is contextualized amongst coordinating product, thus converting the browser into a purchaser (O’Rourke, [lecture], 22/11/11).
Above: Fig. 2. Current Merchandising (2011) by Philippa Bryant. Below: Fig. 3. Tex-Store Proposed Merchandising (2012) by Philippa Bryant. Opposite: Fig. 4. Brooklyn Reclamation (2011) by Brooklyn Reclamation
Fixtures & Fittings Fittings, whilst requiring flexibility fore mostly, will emulate the Urban Outfitters brand. Customized MDF boxes and old drawers could be used as alternative display solutions for shoes, accessories and homewares. Tables are to be sourced from reclamation yards or specialist shops such as Brooklyn Reclamation, with the possibility of being sold. Raw, salvaged materials such as MDF are to be used in innovative ways to create gondolas. This adds to the retail environment visually, with fittings being pieces of artwork themselves creating a more interesting shopping experience. Sofas and chairs in the shoe lounge and fitting rooms will be uniquely vintage or second hand. Mirrors in the fitting rooms are to be kept basic for a clear view. Homely rugs evoke a comfortable environment, with the option for staff and customers to donate furniture such as at the McCann-Erickson Riga and Inspired Office (OnOffice, 2011, p. 040). A key mannequin trend at the Retail Design Collective which corresponded with the brand identity was raw textures such as paper machĂŠ (DDI, 2011, p. 16). There was emphasis on creative mannequin use as seen in many AW11 stores, which Urban Outfitters should integrate with machĂŠ. Headless mannequins were another Fig. 5. Topshop Mannequin (2012) by Topshop trend feature which Urban Outfitters already incorporates.
Lighting Urban Outfitters should continue to use standard store lighting for practical purposes whilst also incorporating lighting features. Key features will be; exposed cables and bulbs. Neon store front signage, such as at Liverpool One, could be brought in-store to guide customers in their shopping experience. This would be appreciated by the online customer who favours ease and direction (Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11).
Above: Fig. 7. Current Labelling (2011) by Philippa Bryant Right: Fig. 8. Tex-Store Proposed Layout (2012) by Philippa Bryant
Circulation When entering a store, good visibility is a prerequisite as customers want a clear image of where they are going. The circulation pattern aids the customer through the store, however in a smaller store a suggested a route will suffice as customers are guided by what they see upon Fig. 6. Fairground Lighting (2009) by Delicious Industries entry. Product areas entice by using props such as suitcases and boxes, but are not too large as to overwhelm. Bottlenecks are avoided around the Packaging & Labelling till and changing rooms and points of relaxation Urban Outfitters should keep the wooden added with sofas and chairs (Din, 2000, p. 90). hangers they currently use or even re-use old To avoid a negative psychological effect, the tills hangers like Liberty, London (WGSN, 2012, will be positioned away from the front door. What’s In Store [online], 09/01/12). Current photographic labelling could be adapted to feature new photographers and artists’ work, The Rules of Circulation an incentive for customers to shop and submit. • Visibility means access- people like to Shopping-bags should not just be recyclable, know where they are going and where like the current paper bags in the UK, but they have been more sturdy and re-usable such as the branded • Good signage is reassuring to the fabric bag from New York. This reduces energy consumer consumption further whilst branding promotes • Landmarks create points of reference the store. Speciality shopping bags should be • Walkways should not continue in a used around the Christmas period to promote a straight line for too long, as they will seasonal offer. appear never-ending and therefore tiring • Departments and product areas must not be too deep from the walkway to the back
wall as this will deter customers from leaving the walkway • Dead ends should be avoided: customers like to flow from one area to another (Din, 2000, p. 91)
Windows & Timing
Carnival During the Halloween and Bonfire period will be a theme which references the fairground; with carnivals being a common pastime. Props will include boxes and crates which are improvised with spray-paint and wrapped textiles. The theme continues in-store through fairground signage which evokes nostalgia of autumnal carnivals, with decaying paint relating to brand aesthetics (OnOffice, 2011, p. 019).
There will be three proposed window themes over the AW12 period for Urban Outfitters. These will coincide with major calendar events with the following themes; Autumnal, Carnival and Rustic Yuletide. In-store display will remain Rustic Yuletide in the aforementioned format throughout the season, although with changing posters in Present boxes, such as those at C&A (Paris), are accordance to window themes. crafted from MDF and tied with reclaimed fabric ribbons (WGSN, 2012, VM Global Overview [online], 09/01/12) whilst fairy lights are hung Autumnal alongside hand-made paper chains. In-store, a Christmas tree acts as a promotional landmark The theme of this window is preparation for for the gift product area. winter. Outfits are presented on mannequins in a scene which emulates a ‘cosy’ changing of the seasons with ‘kitsch’ lampshades hanging as alternative lanterns. Props such as DIY TIMELINE cupboards nod toward the sustainable trend. This Autumnal- 1st Sept- mid October will represent ‘stocking-up’ for winter and will Carnival- Mid October- mid November display smaller items such as shoes, accessories Rustic Yuletide- Mid November-New Year and homewares. The theme continues in-store with assembled suitcases as a display feature on larger tables.
Promotional Activity
Point of Purchase
According to WGSN (WGSN, 2012, Another Goes Camping in NYC [online], 09/01/12), adaptable store environments and pop-up stores are key trends. An appropriate translation would be to create music and art spaces within store, which to some extent is already apparent; with the likes of Jaguar Skills having played at the Birmingham store. This requires easily moveable fixtures and correct facilities such as sockets. Urban Outfitters should incorporate business trends such as ‘giving back to the community’; by commissioning local music which appeals to the target market during seasonal shopping evenings. This would include ‘alternative’ bands, which are most favoured by the typical customer, as seen on the Urban Outfitters blog (Urban Outfitters, 2012, Urban Outfitters- Blog [online], 18/01/12).
At the beginning of the AW12 season, tables near the cash desk should display appropriate winter accessories such as knitted hats, gloves and scarves. In the lead-up to Christmas, during the ‘Rustic Yuletide’ window dates, these tables should change focus to seasonal gifts.
During the AW12 season; knitwear, winter accessories and gifts should be focussed around the entrance, such as under a Christmas tree. These promotional areas act as in-store “miniexhibitions” and will change with the seasons (Din, 2000, p. 94). Promotional lines of knitwear, such as Christmas jumpers, will feature in window displays.
Right: Fig. 9. Tex-Store Proposed Promo VM (2012) by Philippa Bryant Below: Fig. 10. Tex-Store Shoe Lounge & Changing Rooms (2012) by Philippa Bryant Above: Fig. 11. Paper Chain (2012) by Jacquie Hall
Conclusion Since 2000, UK sales have risen by £64,543 (Mintel, 2012, Urban Outfitters UK [online], 18/01/12). This demonstrates a strong growth on the British High Street. With well-established UK competitors such as Topshop, they should take this opportunity to fully utilize their VM in order to compete. Flagship stores expose the brand to a global audience; therefore, Urban Outfitters should allocate the highest budgets for the latest design developments as they act as a “three dimensional marketing tool for advertising the retailer’s brand, identity, values and philosophy” (Din, 2000, p. 56). The merchandising of clothing as complete outfits alongside non-clothing products continues with Urban Outfitters’ lifestyle approach. Proposed fixtures and fittings are moveable, which would also be suited to smaller stores dictated by financial and space limitations. As well as being practical, moveable fixtures tie in with the ‘adaptable environments’ trend. Proposed themes and display solutions link closely to the current Visual Merchandising aesthetic of Urban Outfitters, with reclaimed materials and merchandising concepts relating to
sustainability. However, sellable fixtures would require extra planning and storage therefore a significantly higher cost. Sellable fixtures should therefore be limited and used in top stores only. With a higher level of Tex-Store training, ideas could be visually represented more accurately. Proposed ideas also relate to key macro trends in social consciousness, with ‘local’ promo events; however the practicalities of some aspects may need further consideration. If local music and art is to be commissioned, this would be an additional labour cost. However, local promo events are to some extent already in practice and should only be used occasionally and strategically to control costs. The proposed layout and circulation is applicable to both small and larger stores, as spacious environments in both formats are vital in ensuring visibility and access. Windows are culturally and topically relevant, implementing ‘vintage’ as a key theme which relates to environmental awareness. 1,625 Words
List of Illustrations
List of References
Cover Image. Urban Outfitters Bound Sticks (2011) by WGSN
(Din, 2000, p.94)
Inside Cover Image. Urban Outfitters Wooden Cubes (2011) by WGSN
(Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11) (Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11)
Fig. 1. UO New York (2011) by DDI online
(VMSD, 2011, p.28)
Fig. 2. Current Merchandising (2011) by Philippa Bryant
(Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11)
Fig. 3. Tex-Store Proposed Merchandising (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig. 4. Brooklyn Reclamation (2011) by Brooklyn Reclamation Fig. 5. Topshop Mannequin (2012) by Topshop Fig. 6. Fairground Lighting (2009) by Delicious Industries Fig. 7. Current Labelling (2011) by Philippa Bryant Fig. 8. Tex-Store Proposed Layout (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig. 9. Tex-Store Proposed Promo VM (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig. 10. Tex-Store Shoe Lounge & Changing Rooms (2012) by Philippa Bryant Fig. 11. Paper Chain (2012) by Jacquie Hall
(Din, 2000, p. 94) (OnOffice, 2011, p. 040) (DDI, 2011, p. 16) (Retail Design Collective [conference] 07/12/11) (WGSN, 2012, What’s In Store [online], 09/01/12) (Din, 2000, p. 90) (Din, 2000, p. 91) (OnOffice, 2011, p. 019) (WGSN, 2012, VM Global Overview [online], 09/01/12) (WGSN, 2012, Another Goes Camping in NYC [online], 09/01/12) (Urban Outfitters, 2012, Urban Outfitters- Blog [online], 18/01/12) (Din, 2000, p. 94) (Mintel, 2012, Urban Outfitters UK [online], 18/01/12) (Din, 2000, p. 56)
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