saigon by Philippos Avramidis

CITY NARRATIVES

PRINT: CLAYS Ltd ISBN: 978-980-90124 © Saigon publications department 2015 Saigon Ho chi mihn City Hall Τ: 210 32 44 589 Ε: info@saigon.vn 6

CITY NARRATIVES

The Pearl of Far East

Beyond the Story

The legendary Origin The Giant Fish The Nine-tailed Fox The Evil Genie From Village to City Etymology of Name The Siege of Saigon The french Colonial The Fall of Saigon Learn our Culture War Museum Museum of Arts Museum of History The Opera House Saigon Post Office Saigon City Hall Memorial Reunification Palace

14 16 18 20 25 27 28 33 36 47 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 61

Meet our Religions Virgin Mary Notre Dame Pink church Quan Am Pagoda The mosque Thien Hau Join our Fest Tet Kite Art Festival Mekong Ox Races

63 66 69 70 72 73 77 78 80 81 9

day, Saigon is the big tourism center in Vietnam, attracting a large of visitors to Vietnam. Saigon has various attractions as Ho Chi Minh Museum, formerly known as Dragon House Wharf, Cu Chi Tunnels, system of museums, theatres, cultural houses... Recently, many tourist areas are invested such as Thanh Da, Binh Quoi Village, Dam Sen Park, Saigon Water Park, Suoi Tien, Ky Hoa..., which draw numerous tourists. Despite its quite recent past, Saigon nevertheless possesses various beautiful buildings, displaying a characteristic combination of Vietnamese, Chinese and European cultures. These include Nha Rong (Dragon House Wharf), Quoc To Temple (National Ancestors Temple), Xa Tay (Municipal Office), Ho Chi Minh Municipal Theatre as well as many pagodas and churches (Vinh Nghiem, Giac Vien, Giac Lam, Phung Son pagodas...). After more than 300 years of development, Saigon presents many ancient architectural constructions, famous vestiges and renowned sights. It is remarkable for its harmonious blending of traditional national values with northern and western cultural features.

housands of years ago in the country of Linh Nam, there lived a clan chief with superhu-

man strength called Loc Tuc who took the title of King Kinh Duong. Endowed with magical powers, he could walk as easily on water as on land. One day, during a walk on Lake Dong Dinh, he met Long Nu, daughter of King Long Vuong (Dragon). From their union, a son was born who received the name Sung Lam. As he grew up, Sung Lam revealed his herculean strength, lifting a stone block like a piece of straw that two men could not manage to encircle with their arms. Sung Lam also inherited the supernatural gifts of his father, succeeded him as leader of the country under the name Lac Long Quan (Dragon, King of the Country of the Lac). At this time, there was neither order nor peace in Linh Nam and King Lac Long resolved to travel his country from north to south.

hus it was that one day he met a fish of extraordinary size in the southern waters. Measuring over hundred feet in length, its tail stood up like a huge sail. It could swallow more than ten men in a single mouthful. When it swam, it raised waves sky-high and boats gliding in the vicinity were at risk of being swept away. The fishermen were very afraid of the demon-fish. It lived in a deep cavern leading to the bottom of the sea and an opening on top of a mountain chain that divided the country into two zones. King Lac Long wanted to rid the people of this threatening danger. He made a solid boat and forged a block of iron with sharp, white-hot sides.

Cutting off the head, he threw it onto the moun-

Then he sailed toward the demonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s abode. Raising

tain that has ever since been called Cau Dau Son

the block above his head, he gave the beast the

(Mountain of the Dogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Head).

illusion of throwing a man at him as bait. Then he thrust the burning metal into the enormous open

The body was carried away by the current and

mouth of the creature. Mad with pain, the monster

landed in the country of Man Cau. As for the tail,

rose up, trying to overturn the boat. But quick as

skinned by Lac Long, it still envelops the island of

lightning, Lac Long sliced the monster into three

Bach Long Vi (Tail of the White Dragon).

pieces with his sword. At once, the head turned into a dogfish and Lac

Having delivered the area of its monster, King Lac

Long started tearing up lumps of the shore and

Long pursued his route as far as Long Vien. A task

made a dike to keep the animal from escaping.

awaited him there.

e had nine tails and he hid himself in an obscure grotto at the foot of a mountain on the west side of the city. This evil spirit often assumed a human form to mingle with the crowd and to carry away young girls whom he kidnapped for his lair. In the region stretching from Long Bien to Tan Vien Mountain, all the families had, alas, paid their “tribute” to this ignoble being. The population lived in a permanent state of terror. Many were those, who abandoning house, fields and gardens, had carried their households elsewhere. King Lac Long was filled with deep pity and decided to get rid of this monster as well. Alone and armed with his sword, he went toward the entrance to the grotto. On seeing him, the enemy attacked. Using his magic power, Lac Long called winds, rain and storms to his aid. The fight lasted three days and nights. Weakened, the monster tried to flee. The king pursued it and cut off its head. Then the monster took its original form and only the body of a nine-tailed fox remained at Lac Long’s feet. Entering the grot-

The liberated population returned to their homes

to, the king released the prisoners, then called on

day to Phong Chau.

the water powers to destroy this cursed place. The

and replanted their fields. Peace reigned throughout the region and Lac Long returned to the road through the hills and forests. Thus he came one

river flowed there in cascading torments, raking the mountain. Whirlwinds produced a deep abyss that the people of the time called “Sea of the Fox’s Body” and which is now called Tay Ho (West Lake in Hanoi).

Evil Genie of the ForestThere was an old tree called Chien don in the region that was two thousand feet tall, but its formerly luxuriant foliage was withered. The old tree had then been changed into an evil genie of the woods. The inhabitants of the area called it the Demon Tree. It was wicked and played diabolical tricks, ceaselessly changing forms and moving its lair to better surprise its prey and devour it. Continued heart-rending cries and complaints were heard in the forest. Lac Long left once more to fight against evil. For days and nights, he sneaked in and out of the forest looking from tree to tree for the demon; after much difficulty, he managed to find it. The fight lasted one hundred days and nights. Thousands of trees were uprooted, innumerable rocks split in half and clouds of dust obscured the sky and land without the evil spirit giving up. Finally, Lac Long had a brilliant idea. He made such a huge noise with gongs, tom-toms and other musical instruments that the terrified demon fled toward the southwest where he no doubt lives today!

Au Co lived with Lac Long for some time and be-

Lac Long replied,

came pregnant. She gave birth to a pouch filled with one hundred eggs, each of which produced a

“I am of the Dragon race, you are of the Immortals.

baby boy at the end of seven days. These hundred

We cannot live together. We must separate. I am

boys grew amazingly fast and became handsome

going to leave for the maritime regions with fifty of

men surpassing those of the same age in physical

our children and you will go with the other fifty to

strength and intelligence.

the country of the mountains and the forests. We still divide this country between us to run it as best

For dozens of years, the couple lived in the most

we can.”

complete harmony. But Lac Long always had nostalgia for the submarine palace. One day he said

And they separated. Thus, the hundred boys be-

goodbye to his wife and children and, transforming

came the ancestors of the Viets. Only the eldest

himself into a dragon, took off toward the sea. Au

lived in the Phong Chau and was proclaimed King

Co and her sons wanted to follow him but, not be-

as Hung Vuong (King Hung). He divided the coun-

ing able to fly, they sadly took the mountain road

try into fifteen provinces, each being the cradle of a

again. Days full of sadness passed without news of

tribe. Eighteen Hung kings succeeded him on the

him. Upset by the memory of her loved one, Au Co

throne.

stood on the highest summit and turned toward the south. Anguishly, she cried out,

The story of Lac Long and Au Co is at the origin of popular beliefs that the Viets are descended from

“Oh Lac Long, why don’t you return home?”

the race of the Dragons and the Tien.

And Lac Long was immediately at her side. Au Co reproached him softly “I am a native of the high mountains and large grottos. I have brought a hundred sons into the world in order to live with you in perfect harmony, but this still has not stopped you from leaving us.”

n etymology of Saigon (or Sài Gòn in Viet-

skrit origin meaning city or kingdom, and related to

namese) is that Sài is a Sino-Vietnamese

the English word ‘Nation’ thus, “forest city” or “forest

word 柴 meaning “firewood, lops, twigs; palisade”,

kingdom”

while Gòn is another Sino-Vietnamese word (Hán

棍) meaning “stick, pole, bole”, and whose mean-

Truong Mealy (former director of King Norodom

ing evolved into “cotton” in Vietnamese (bông gòn,

Sihanouk’s royal Cabinet), says that, according to

literally “cotton stick”, i.e., “cotton plant”, then short-

a Khmer Chronicle, The Collection of the Council

ened to gòn). This name may refer to the many

of the Kingdom, Prey Nokor’s proper

kapok plants that the Khmer people had planted

name was Preah Reach Nokor, “Roy-

around Prey Nokor, and which can still be seen at

al City”; later locally corrupted to “Prey

Cây Mai temple and surrounding areas. It may also

kor”, meaning “kapok forest”, from which “Saigon”

refer to the dense and tall forest that once existed

was derived (“kor” meaning “kapok” in Khmer and

around the city, a forest to which the Khmer name,

Cham, going into Vietnamese as “gòn” )

Prey Nokor, already referred. Other proposed etymologies draw parallels from Tai-

Ngon (堤岸), the Cantonese name of Cholon, which means “embankment” and Vietnamese Sai Côn, a translation of the Khmer Prey Nokor. Prey means forest or jungle, and nokor is a Khmer word of San27

he process of Vietnam’s colonisation began

most of the Vietnamese artillery had been installed.

in 1858 when a Franco-Spanish force landed

[48] The Vietnamese artillery commanders had mis-

at Da Nang in central Vietnam and attempted to

calculated and had set up their cannons incorrect-

proceed to the capital Hue.[45] After becoming tied

ly, firing at excessively high angles. The cannons

down, they sailed to the less defended south, tar-

were not easily adjusted and thus the Vietnamese

geting Saigon.[46] The southern offensive started

firepower was misdirected and ineffective.[48] At

on February 10, 1859 with a naval bombardment

around 10:00, Captain Des Pallieres led 300 French

of Vũng Tàu. Within six days, the Eu-

soldiers in an infantry attack. They used bamboo

ropeans had levelled 12 Vietnamese

ladders to scale the walls under artillery support

fortresses and three river barriers. They

from the river. The defenders were caught off guard

then sailed along the Saigon River to the

by this manoevre and many fled in chaos.

mouth of the Citadel of Saigon and opened fire with naval artillery from close range.[47] The fort was

Most of the Vietnamese defence personnel were

manned by 1,000 soldiers and stored enough rice

concentrated at the eastern gate of the citadel,

to feed 10,000 defenders for an entire year.

where they stubbornly fought off the French. Rigault de Genouilly led 500 French troops in hand-to-hand

On February 17, 1859, the French warships opened

combat for seven hours, having used explosives to

fire on the citadel with artillery. This attack focused

breach the citadel. At 14:00, the French seized con-

on the southeastern corner of the citadel, where

trol of the citadel.[48] Two hours later, de Genouilly

declared the citadel as the new general headquar-

target.[51] The local militia were supported by

ters of the French forces.[49] The French seized

wealthy southern landowners, who supplied them

a large arsenal. This included more than 200 can-

with food and resources.

nons, 20,000 hand-held weapons such as firearms, pistols and swords, 100 tons of munitions,

The French soldiers charged with holding the cit-

80,000 tons of rice and 130,000 francs in cash.

adel soon became stretched by the guerrilla at-

Saltpetre, shot and sulphur were also seized.The

tacks on the military installation. De Genouilly had

Vietnamese material losses were estimated to be

decided to withdraw some of his forces back to

around 20 million francs. The citadel commander

central Vietnam. In addition, the inland position of

fled to another village before committing suicide.

the French forces lessened their technological ad-

The Vietnamese attempted to reclaim the citadel

vantage. As a result, the French decided to evac-

by sending reinforcements. VÄŠnh Long and Máťš

uate and destroy the fort. This was achieved on

Tho sent 1,800 and 800 troops respectively, but

March 8. Captain Deroulede used 32 chests of ex-

French shelling prevented them from reaching

plosives.[53] He also razed the citadel by setting

the scene.This left the 5,800-strong local self-de-

the rice granary ablaze, along with the weapons

fence militia to combat the French. These militia

and munitions. The resulting fire was said to have

engaged in ambushing French patrols near the

smoldered for a further three years. The French

citadel, as well as evacuating local inhabitants,

withdrew to the outskirts of the city, before return-

in order to create an open space close to their

ing to central Vietnam 29

Chinese Vietnameseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s houses in Ben Nghe River (1866).

Governor Bonhoure and his wife in Saigon (1909).

A tomb (1866).

Vietnamese officials (1890).

ormally called, Gia Ä?áť&#x2039;nh, Saigon is the western version of the name, given for the capital of the French colony of Cochinchina from 1859. French asserted their administration over the Sino-Vietnamese people by building massive colonial administration buildings, European villas as residences and planning the colony with wide boulevards a la Paris. The Vietnamese people then proclaimed their own independence after the second world war form the combined French and Japanese occupation, in a resistance led by Ho Chi Minh. Saigon was then the Independent Republic of South Vietnam, until losing the American War to North in Vietnam in 1975 and was then officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City. Many of the administrative buildings and European style villas are still around today, showing a lovely patina created by time in a tropical climate.

he Fall of Saigon was the capture of Saigon,

By the afternoon of the next day, North Vietnamese

the capital of South Vietnam, by the People’s

troops had occupied the important points of the city

Army of Vietnam and the National Liberation Front

and raised their flag over the South Vietnamese

of South Vietnam (also known as the Việt Cộng)

presidential palace. The South Vietnamese gov-

on April 30, 1975. The event marked the

ernment capitulated shortly afterward. The city was

end of the Vietnam War and the start of

renamed Hồ Chí Minh City, after the Democratic

a transition period to the formal reunifi-

Republic's President Hồ Chí Minh.

cation of Vietnam into a socialist republic, governed by the Communist Party of Vietnam.

The capture of the city was preceded by the evacuation of almost all the American civilian and military

North Vietnamese forces, under the command of

personnel in Saigon, along with tens of thousands

the General Văn Tiến Dũng, began their final at-

of South Vietnamese civilians associated with the

tack on Saigon, with South Vietnamese forces

southern regime. The evacuation culminated in

commanded by General Nguyễn Văn Toàn, on

Operation Frequent Wind, the largest helicopter

April 29, suffering heavy artillery bombardment.

evacuation in history.[2] In addition to the flight of

This bombardment at the Tân Sơn Nhứt Airport

refugees, the end of the war and institution of new

killed the last two American servicemen to die in

rules by the communists contributed to a decline in

Vietnam, Charles McMahon and Darwin Judge.[1]

the city’s population Before daybreak on April 29,

Tan Son Nhat Airport was hit by rockets and heavy

time when a South Vietnamese pilot decided to

tivate “the FREQUENT WIND” evacuation plan;

artillery. In the initial shelling, C-130E, 72-1297, c/n

defect, and jettisoned his ordnance along the only

Kissinger gave the order three minutes later. The

4519, of the 314th Tactical Airlift Wing, and flown

runways still in use (which had not yet been de-

American radio station began regular play of Irving

by a crew from the 374th Tactical Airlift Wing out

stroyed by shelling).

Berlin’s “White Christmas,” the signal for American

of Clark Air Base, Philippines, was destroyed by a

personnel to move immediately to the evacuation

rocket while taxiing to pick up evacuees. The crew

Under pressure from Kissinger, Martin forced Ma-

evacuated the burning aircraft on the taxiway and

rine guards to take him to the air base in the midst

departed the airfield on another C-130 that had

of continued shelling, so he might personally as-

Under this plan, CH-53 and CH-46 helicopters were

previously landed. The continuing rocket fire and

certain the situation. After seeing that fixed-wing

used to evacuate Americans and friendly Vietnam-

debris on the runways caused General Homer D.

departures were not an option (a mammoth deci-

ese to ships, including the Seventh Fleet, in the

Smith, the U.S. defense attaché in Saigon, to ad-

sion Martin did not want to make without firsthand

South China Sea.[45] The main evacuation point

vise Ambassador Martin that the runways were un-

responsibility in case the helicopter lift failed), Mar-

was the DAO Compound at Tan Son Nhat; buses

fit for use and that the emergency evacuation of Sai-

tin gave the green light for the helicopter evacua-

moved through the city picking up passengers and

gon would need to be completed by helicopter.

tion to begin in earnest.

driving them out to the airport, with the first bus-

points.

es arriving at Tan Son Nhat shortly after noon. The Originally, Ambassador Martin had fully intended to

Reports came in from the outskirts of the city that

first CH-53 landed at the DAO compound in the af-

effect the evacuation by use of fixed-wing aircraft

the North Vietnamese were moving.[43] At 10:48

ternoon, and by the evening, 395 Americans and

from the base. This plan was altered at a critical

a.m., Martin relayed to Kissinger his desire to ac-

more than 4,000 Vietnamese had been evacuated.

By 23:00 the U.S. Marines who were providing se-

with Americans up to that point. Kissinger and Ford

curity were withdrawing and arranging the demoli-

quickly ordered Martin to evacuate only Americans

tion of the DAO office, American equipment, files,

from that point forward.

and cash. Air America UH-1s also participated in the evacuation.[46]

Reluctantly, Martin announced that only Americans were to be flown out, due to worries that the North

The original evacuation plans had not called for

Vietnamese would soon take the city and the Ford

a large-scale helicopter operation at the United

administration’s desire to announce the comple-

States Embassy, Saigon. Helicopters and buses

tion of the American evacuation.[47] Ambassador

were to shuttle people from the Embassy to the

Martin was ordered by President Ford to board the

DAO Compound. However, in the course of the

evacuation helicopter.The call sign of that helicop-

evacuation it turned out that a few thousand peo-

ter was “Lady Ace 09”, and the pilot carried direct

ple were stranded at the embassy, including many

orders from President Ford for Ambassador Martin

Vietnamese. Additional Vietnamese civilians gath-

to be on board. The pilot, Gerry Berry, had the or-

ered outside the Embassy and scaled the walls,

ders written in grease-pencil on his kneepads. Am-

hoping to claim refugee status. Thunderstorms

bassador Martin’s wife, Dorothy, had already been

increased the difficulty of helicopter operations.

evacuated by previous flights, and left behind her

Nevertheless, the evacuation from the Embassy

personal suitcase so a South Vietnamese woman

continued more or less unbroken throughout the

might be able to squeeze on board with her.

evening and night. At one point a Japanese pho-

Model of U.S. embassy in Saigon. The rooftop

tojournalist taking pictures of the evacuees was

staircase that can be seen in the model is on per-

caught up in a crowd of them rushing onto a he-

manent display at the Gerald R. Ford Museum in

licopter and was accidentally evacuated along

Grand Rapids, Michigan.

with them. He subsequently languished for several weeks at refugee camp in Guam before being al-

“Lady Ace 09” from HMM-165 and piloted by Berry,

lowed to leave for Japan.[citation needed]

took off around 05:00 - had Martin refused to leave, the Marines had a reserve order to arrest him and

At 03:45 on the morning of April 30, the refugee

carry him away to ensure his safety.[48] The em-

evacuation was halted. Ambassador Martin had

bassy evacuation had flown out 978 Americans

been ordering that South Vietnamese be flown out

and about 1,100 Vietnamese. The Marines who

had been securing the Embassy followed at dawn,

ese fighters and other small planes also landed on

with the last aircraft leaving at 07:53. A few hun-

American carriers.

dred Vietnamese were left behind in the embassy compound,[49] with an additional crowd gathered

Ambassador Martin was flown out to the USS

outside the walls.

Blue Ridge, where he pleaded for helicopters to return to the Embassy compound to pick up the

The Americans and the refugees they flew out

few hundred remaining hopefuls waiting to be

were generally allowed to leave without interven-

evacuated. Although his pleas were overruled by

tion from either the North or South Vietnamese.

President Ford, Martin was able to convince the

Pilots of helicopters heading to Tan Son Nhat

Seventh Fleet to remain on station for several

were aware that PAVN anti-aircraft guns were

days so any locals who could make their way to

tracking them, but they refrained from firing. The

sea via boat or aircraft might be rescued by the

Hanoi leadership, reckoning that completion of the

waiting Americans.

evacuation would lessen the risk of American in-

Many Vietnamese nationals who were evacu-

tervention, had instructed Dũng not to target the

ated were allowed to enter the United States

airlift itself.[50] Meanwhile, members of the po-

under the Indochina Migration and Refugee As-

lice in Saigon had been promised evacuation in

sistance Act.

exchange for protecting the American evacuation buses and control of the crowds in the city during

Decades later, when the U.S. government reestab-

the evacuation.

lished diplomatic relations with Vietnam, the former

Although this was the end of the American mili-

embassy was returned to the United States. With

tary operation, Vietnamese continued to leave the

his overtures to the north rebuffed out of hand, Tran

country by boat and, where possible, by aircraft.

resigned on 28 April and was succeeded by Gener-

South Vietnamese pilots who had access to heli-

al Duong Van Minh. Duong took over a regime that

copters flew them offshore to the American fleet,

was by this time in a state of utter collapse. However,

where they were able to land; those who left South

he had longstanding ties with the Communists, and

Vietnam this way include at least General Nguyễn

it was hoped he could negotiate a cease-fire.

Cao Kỳ. Most of the South Vietnamese helicop-

However, Hanoi was in no mood to negotiate. On

ters were dumped into the ocean to make room

28 April PAVN forces fought their way into the out-

on the decks for more aircraft.[51] South Vietnam-

skirts of the city. At the Newport Bridge (Cầu Tân 41

Cảng), about three miles (five kilometers) from the

parted on it, so it thus became the last fixed-wing

“There is no question of your transferring power.

city center, South Vietnamese soldiers battled with

aircraft to depart Saigon during the evacuation,

Your power has crumbled. You cannot give up what

PAVN troops attempting to control the span, cutting

dodging the burning aircraft on the Main Ramp and

you do not have.”[60] Later that afternoon, in his

the city’s last overland connection to the south and

on Runway.

final broadcast, Minh declared the South Vietnam-

thereby gaining immediate access to downtown

ese government “completely dissolved at all levels.

Saigon. Later that afternoon, as President Minh

After one day of bombardment and general offen-

finished his acceptance speech, a formation of

sive, the North Vietnamese were ready to make

four A-37s, captured from the South Vietnamese

their final push into the city. In the early hours of

Air Force, bombed Tan Son Nhut airport. As Bien

April 30, Dung received orders from the Politburo

Hoa was falling, General Toan fled to Saigon,

to attack. He then ordered his field commanders

informing the government that most of the top

to advance directly to key facilities and strategic

ARVN leadership had virtually resigned them-

points in the city.[56] The first PAVN unit to enter

selves to defeat.

the city was the 324th Division.[57] By daybreak, it

The Vietnam War was over.

was obvious that the ARVN’s position was untenAt 06:00 on April 29, General Dung was ordered by

able. At 10:24, Minh announced an unconditional

the Politburo to “strike with the greatest determina-

surrender. He ordered all ARVN troops “to cease

tion straight into the enemy’s final lair.”[55] At the

hostilities in calm and to stay where they are,” while

same time, there were still many Air America aircraft

inviting the Provisional Revolutionary Government

at Tan Son Nhat. Shortly after 7:35 the many UH-1

to engage in “a ceremony of orderly transfer of

Hueys began their shuttles from the many rooftop

power so as to avoid any unnecessary bloodshed

pads around town out to the U.S. Navy ships off-

in the population.

shore. The fixed-wing aircraft had assigned pilots to each one, but due to the confusion, many pilots

However, the North Vietnamese were not interest-

could not get to the airport. Captain E. G. Adams

ed in a peaceful transfer of power. PAVN T-54/55

was assigned to pilot a Volpar Beech but when he

tanks under the command of Colonel Bùi Tín burst

was the last pilot on the Air America ramp (all other

through the gates of the Independence Palace

personnel had gone over to the MACV HQ), and

around noon. They found Minh and 30 of his advi-

there was a C-46 aircraft full of refugees parked

sors waiting for them on the palace steps. Minh told

there, Adams boarded that aircraft (a 52 passenger

Tin, “I have been waiting since early this morning to

configured ship with 152 people on board) and de-

transfer power to you.” However, Tin curtly replied, 43

he War Remnants Museum (Vietnamese: Bảo tàng chứng tích chiến tranh) is a war museum at 28 Vo Van Tan, in District 3, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam. It primarily contains exhibits relating to the Vietnam War, but also includes many exhibits relating to the first Indochina War involving the French colonialists. The museum comprises a series of themed rooms in several buildings, with period military equipment placed within a walled yard. The military equipment includes a UH-1 “Huey” helicopter, an F-5A fighter, a BLU-82 “Daisy Cutter” bomb, M48 Patton tank, an A-1 Skyraider attack bomber, and an A-37 Dragonfly attack

One building reproduces the “tiger cages” in which the South Vietnamese government kept political prisoners. Other exhibits include graphic photography, accompanied by a short text in English, Vietnamese and Japanese, covering the effects of Agent Orange and other chemical defoliant sprays, the use of napalm and phosphorus bombs, and war atrocities such as the My Lai massacre. The photographic display includes work by Vietnam War photojournalist Bunyo Ishikawa that he donated to the museum in 1998. Curiosities include a guillotine used by the French

bomber. There are a number of pieces of unexploded ordnance stored in the corner of the yard, with their charges and/or fuses removed.

and South Vietnamese to execute prisoners, the last time being in 1960, and three jars of preserved human fetuses allegedly deformed by exposure to dioxins and dioxin-like compounds, contained in the defoliant Agent Orange.

The Dragon House is an old customs house dating However it is still an interesting and insightful place back to 1863, and is located on the water front at 1 to visit, and you can still work out the basic outline Nguyen Tat Thanh, about a five to ten minute walk of Ho Chi Minh’s life from the pictures.For example, across the Ben Nghi Channel from where the Vung you can work out that his travels to countries such Tau ferries leave from on Ton Duc Thang Street. as France, England, Soviet Union and China were This location gives the museum a good view up important in his political and personal development. and down the Saigon River.The link between the And that he was a man on many names. Born building and Ho Chi Minh himself is pretty tenu- Nguyen Sinh Cung, Ho Chi Minh was also known ous.nThe link being that, as a youthful twenty-one as Nguyen Tat Thanh, Nguyen Van Ba and Nguyyear-old, this building is where Ho Chi Minh left en Ai Quoc amongst many other names at various Vietnam from in 1911 after signing on as a stoker times throughout his life. and galley boy on the French freighter the ‘Admiral Latouche-Treville’.The museum contains a number of his personal affects, including clothes, sandals, radio and so on.However, be warned, that the explanatory signs for all the exhibits are in Vietnamese. So don’t go to the museum expecting to learn a lot. 49

eing one of the largest fine arts centers of

ered as a masterpiece itself by most people. As

Vietnam, Fine Arts Museum is conveniently

Saigon became Ho Chi Minh City and the country

located near the Ben Thanh Market, at 97A Pho

reunited, the building was reformed into a muse-

Duc Chinh Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. The

um in 1987 as the result of a decision of the City’s

building that houses the museum

People’s Committee, though it was not officially

was originally a mansion of a Chi-

opened until 1991.The Fine Arts Museum is indis-

nese during colonial time and after

pensable for those who are keen on Vietnam arts

- Mr. Hoa, the wealthiest man of Saigon at the time,

and culture. Although the museum itself is not big

who also owned other famous buildings in the city

and modern enough, its abundant collections can

such as Majestic Hotel and Tu Du Hospital.

make up for these mistakes. The museum focuses on collecting, keeping, preserving and displaying

This yellow-white grand colonial-era mansion is a

fine artworks typical of Vietnamese people, espe-

combination of French and Chinese styles which

cially Ho Chi Minh City and the South. It comprises

brings about a typical colonial feeling through its

three floors of exhibition space.

marble floors throughout and the spacious, airy rooms. It’s no wonder that the building is consid50

The 2-floored palace building covers an area over

Diệm commissioned the construction of three ex-

The tunnels had 2 downward stairs, leading to a

1700 m², using classical Baroque architecture with

tremely deep underground tunnels leading from the

basement with 6 rooms totalling 1392.3 m², which

European and Oriental influences. The flooring, stair-

palace to other parts of the city so that he and im-

included conference rooms, offices, bathrooms,

cases and halls were European-styled, while the roof

portant government officials/military figures could

electrical rooms. The Presidential Office and Pres-

was Oriental-inspired. Surrounding the palace is a

escape in the event of a coup. During the 1963

idential Adviser’s Offices were equipped with bat-

trapezoid-shaped flower garden, with 4 pathways.

coup d’etat, Diệm is widely believed to have used

tery banks for uninterruptible power supply, porta-

one of these escape routes to escape the siege on

ble radios, RCA transceivers. There are two exit

The front face of the roof is decorated with gro-

the palace, which caused considerable damage.

tunnels that run towards Le Thanh Ton Street as

tesques. Other exterior structural designs include

He fled to a supporter’s house in Cholon but was

well as six ventilation holes and numerous sewage

symbolic chickens representing daytime and owls

captured and executed a day later. The successor

drainages.

for nighttime and ring-enclosed white flowers. Many

presidents still worked there until the completion of

other motifs embossed on the roof is a combination

re-built Independence Palace, in 1966. The tunnels

of Greek mythological symbols, iconic plants and

were 2.2 m high, with casted reinforced concrete

tropical animals such as lizards and birds flying or ex-

(170 kg of iron / 1 m3 of concrete). Walls were 1

panding its wings.

m thick, with 6 iron vault doors for entry and exit.

Established in the 1920s as the Musée Louis Finot,

Check out displays of stone tools, Roman coins,

Prehistoric Period (500,000 years ago to 2879 BC).

the Saigon National History Museum is in a build-

cannons and items from Vietnam’s ethnic minori-

Metal Age (2879–179 BC

ing that typifies Indochinese architecture. One of

ties. The National History Museum is housed at the

Chinese Domination and Struggle

many museums in Ho Chi Minh City.

end of Le Duan, close to the tourist strip. The mu-

for National Independence

seum as it stands today opened its doors in 1979.

in the Red River Valley (179 BC – 938 AD)

Occupying an area of more than 2,000 square me-

When the building was built in 1929 it mainly exhib-

Óc Eo Culture of the Mekong Delta region

ters, the museum traces the history of the Vietnam-

ited ancient Asian art collections until after 1956,

Stone and bronze sculptures and other artifacts

ese people. Displays are in two parts, the first part

when it was renamed the Saigon National Muse-

of Champa

being an exhibition of Vietnamese history from its

um. Expanded in 1975, the museum became the

Stone sculptures of Cambodia (9th–12th centuries)

first settlement until 1930, when the Vietnamese

haven for Vietnamese history that we see today.

Ngô, Dinh, Anterior Lê, Ly Dynasties (939–1225) Tran and Ho Dynasties (1226–1407)

Communist Party was established. The second part houses displays of cultural and ethnological

Note that photos are allowed but you must pur-

Dynasties from the Lê to the Nguyên (1428–1788)

significance, including aspects of the ancient Me-

chase a VND 30,000 camera ticket in conjunction

Tây Sơn Dynasty (1771–1802)

kong Delta, Cham art and the cultural history of

with your VND 15,000 admission ticket. The muse-

Nguyễn Dynasty (1802–1945)

Vietnam’s many ethnic minority groups. Display

um is open daily

text is written in Vietnamese, English and French. 53

fter the invasion of Cochinchina, in 1863 French colonists invited a theatre company to Saigon to perform for the French legion in the villa of the French admiral at the Clock Square (Place de l’Horloge) (presently the corner of Nguyen Du and Dong Khoi streets). After a short time, a temporary theatre was built at the site of what is now the Caravelle Hotel. In 1898, the construction of the new theatre commenced on the site of the old one, and it was completed by 1 January 1900. Between World War I and World War II, all costs

1944, the theatre was damaged by the Allied ae-

of mobilization and demobilization as well as oth-

rial attacks against Japanese Imperial Army, and

er costs for the theatre companies from France to

the theatre stopped functioning. As Japan surren-

Saigon were paid by the municipal government.

dered to the Allied forces, France returned to Co-

Despite the fact that the theatre was planned as an

chinchina. In 1954, the French army surrendered to

entertainment venue for the growing middle class,

Viet Minh during the Battle of Dien Bien Phu which

its audience declined as more and more night clubs

led to the Geneva Accords in the same year. The

and dance halls boomed in the city. During this pe-

theatre was then used as a temporary shelter for

riod, performances were presented only occasion-

French civilians arriving from North Vietnam.

ally, some being concerts and others cai luong programs.

In 1955, the theatre was restored as the seat of the Lower House of the State of Vietnam, then the Re-

Following criticisms of the theatre’s façade and the

public of Vietnam. After the Fall of Saigon in 1975,

high costs of organizing performances, the munic-

the building was restored to its original function as

ipal government intended to turn the theatre into a

a theatre. In 1998, on the occasion of 300th an-

concert hall (Salle de Concert), but this was never

niversary of the founding of Saigon, the municipal

shaped like the Opéra Garnier in Paris. The Municipal Theatre

carried out. Instead, decorations, engravings and

government had the theatre façade restored.

owes its specific characteristics to the work of architect Félix

statues were removed from the theatre façade in 1943 to make the theatre look more youthful. In

The Municipal Theatre is a smaller counterpart of the Hanoi Opera House, which was built between 1901 and 1911, and

Olivier, while construction was under supervision of architects Ernest Guichard and Eugène Ferret in 1900.

aigon Central Post Office (Vietnamese: Bưu điện Trung tâm Sài Gòn, French: Poste centrale de Saïgon) is a post office in the downtown Ho Chi Minh City, near Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica, the city’s cathedral. The building was constructed when Vietnam was part of French Indochina in the late 19th century. It counts with Gothic, Renaissance and French influences. It was constructed between 1886-1891 and is now a tourist attraction. It was designed by Auguste Henri Vildieu and Alfred Foulhoux, as well as Gustave Eiffel. Inside the Saigon Central Post office of special note are two painted maps that were created just after the post office was built, the first one located on the left side of the building is a map of Southern Vietnam and Cambodia titled Lignes telegraphiques du Sud Vietnam et Cambodge 1892 which translates to “Telegraphic lines of Southern Vietnam and Cambodia 1892”. The second map of greater Saigon is titled Saigon et ses environs 1892 translating to “Sai Gon and its environment 1892” 57

n the centre of HCMC, at the end of Nguyen Hue, sits the magnificent office of the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee. Completed in 1908 by the French, the former Hotel de Ville’s design is based on the Paris original. It remains as one of the most stunning colonial monuments especially when floodlit at night. Make sure to visit the statue of Ho Chi Minh on the /median strip outside. Keep in mind that because Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee is a working government building, the public is not allowed inside. However, don’t let that stop you from taking a bazillion photos of the photogenic cream and yellow architecture from outside the building. On the roof is a bell tower placed on a pyramid-shaped podium. Pose outside the building and snap some memorable shots of one of Saigon’s most famous landmarks.

he Bến Dược Memorial Temple (Đền tưởng

meditate. The City Committee of the Party, the

niệm Bến Dược - Củ Chi[1]) is a cultural his-

People’s Council, and the Vietnamese Fatherland

tory project of the Communist Party Committee

Front chose the date of December 19 as the an-

and people of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. It was

nual memorial day to recall and be grateful to the

built to memorialize the significant contributions of

dead. Construction of the temple was started on

the soldiers and people who were killed in the Sai-

May 19, 1993 on the 103rd birthday of President

gon-Gia Định region during the anti-Ameri-

Ho Chi Minh. It is located on a 7-hectare plot in

can and anti-French fighting.[2] The temple

the historical heritage compound around the Củ

is sited at the Bến Dược hamlet, Phú Mỹ

Chi tunnels.

Hưng village, end of the Củ Chi tunnels. On December 19, 1975, the first stage of the Memorial Monument was inaugurated to welcome many groups of people from inside and outside Vietnam to come to remember, burn incense and

Independence Palace (Dinh Độc Lập), also known

see the completed hall as he and his brother and

an F-5E aircraft from Biên Hòa Air Base to bomb

as Reunification Palace (Vietnamese: Dinh Thống

chief adviser Ngô Đình Nhu were assassinated af-

the palace, but caused no significant damage. At

Nhất), built on the site of the former Norodom Pal-

ter a coup d’état led by General Dương Văn Minh

10:45 on 30 April 1975, a tank of the North Viet-

ace, is a landmark in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. It

in November 1963. The completed hall was in-

namese Army bulldozed through the main gate,

was designed by architect Ngô Viết Thụ and was

augurated on 31 October 1966 by the chairman

ending the Vietnam War.

the home and workplace of the President of South

of the National Leadership Committee, General

Vietnam during the Vietnam War. It was the site

Nguyễn Văn Thiệu, who was then the head of a

In November 1975, after the negotiation conven-

of the end of the Vietnam War during the Fall of

military junta. The Independence Hall served as

tion between the communist North Vietnam and

Saigon on April 30, 1975, when a North Vietnam-

Thiệu’s home and office from October 1967 to 21

their colleagues in South Vietnam was complet-

ese Army tank crashed through its gates. The con-

April 1975, when he fled the country as commu-

ed, the Provisional Revolutionary Government re-

struction of the new Independence Palace started

nist North Vietnamese forces swept southwards in

named the palace Reunification Hall (Hội trường

on 1 July 1962. Meanwhile, Diệm and his ruling

the decisive Ho Chi Minh Campaign.ωOn 8 April

Thống Nhất).

family moved to Gia Long Palace (today the Ho

1975, Nguyễn Thanh Trung, a pilot of the Vietnam

Chi Minh City Museum). However, Diệm did not

Air Force and an undetected communist spy, flew

Long-established religions in Vietnam include the

7,000 Bahais, 1,500 Hindus and other smaller

Vietnamese folk religion, which has been historical-

groups (<1%).[1] Traditional folk religions (worship

ly structured by the doctrines of Confucianism and

of gods, goddesses and ancestors) have experi-

Taoism from China, as well as a strong tradition of

enced a rebirth since the 1980s.

Buddhism (called the three teachings or tam giรกo). Vietnam is one of the least religious countries in

According to estimates by the Pew Research Cen-

the world. According to official statistics from the

ter, in 2010 most Vietnamese people practice folk

government, as of 2014 there are 24 million people

religions (45.3%), Buddhists constitute 16.4% of

identified with one of the recognised organised re-

the population, around 8.2% of the Vietnamese are

ligions, out of a population of 90 million. Of these,

Christians (mostly Catholics), and around 30% are

11 million are Buddhists (12.2%), 6.2 million are

unaffiliated to any religion. Officially, the Socialist

Catholics (6.8%), 4.4 million are Caodaists (4.8%),

Republic of Vietnam is an atheist state as declared

1.4 million are Protestants (1.6%), 1.3 million are

by its communist government

Hoahaoists (1.4%), and there are 75,000 Muslims,

ollowing the French conquest of Cochinchina and Saigon, the Roman Catholic Church established a community and religious services for French colonialists. The first church was built on today’s Ngo Duc Ke Street. There had been a Vietnamese pagoda, which had been abandoned during the war. Bishop Lefevre decided to make this pagoda a church. The last church was too small. Thus, in 1863, Admiral Bonard decided to build a wooden church on the bank of Charner canal (Kinh Lớn).

On 7 October 1877, Bishop Isidore Colombert

Lefevre put the first stone for construction of

laid the first stone in an inaugural ceremony. The

the church on 28 March 1863. The construction

construction of the cathedral took three years.

was completed two years later and was called

On Easter Day, 11 April 1880, a blessing cere-

“Saigon Church”. When the wooden church was

mony and ceremony of completion were sol-

damaged by termites, all church services were

emnly organized in presence of the Governor

held in the guest-chamber of the French Gover-

of Cochinchina Charles Le Myre de Vilers. One

nor’s Palace. This palace would later be turned

can see the granite plate inside the main entry

into a seminary until the Notre-Dame Cathedral

gate commemorating the start and completion

was completed.

dates and designer. The total cost was 2,500,000 French francs (at that time price). At the begin-

After the design competition, bids were accept-

ning, the cathedral was called State Cathedral

ed for construction. Again, J. Bourard was the

due to the source of the construction funds.

successful bidder and became supervisor of constructions.

In 1895, two bell towers were added to the cathedral, each 57.6 m high with six bronze bells

All building materials were imported from France.

with the total weight of 28.85 metric tonnes. The

The outside wall of the cathedral was built with

crosses were installed on the top of each tower

bricks from Marseille. Although the contractor

of 3.5 m high, 2 m wide, 600 kg in weight. The to-

did not use coated concrete, these bricks have

tal height of the cathedral to the top of the Cross

retained their bright red color until today.

is 60.5 m. 67

In the flower garden in front of the cathedral, there was a bronze statue of Pigneau de Behaine (also called Bishop of Adran) leading Prince Cảnh, the son of Emperor Gia Long by his right hand. The statue was made in France. In 1945, the statue was removed, but the foundation remains. In 1959, Bishop Joseph Pham Van Thien, whose jurisdiction included Saigon parish, attended the Marian Congress held in Vatican and ordered a statue of Our Lady of Peace made with granite in Rome. When the statue arrived in Saigon on 16 February 1959, Bishop Pham Van Thien held a ceremony to install the statue on the empty base and presented the title of “Regina Pacis”. It was the same bishop who wrote the prayers “Notre-Dame bless the peace to Vietnam”. The next day, Cardinal Aganianian came from Rome to chair the closing ceremony of the Marian Congress and solemnly chaired the ceremony for the statue, thus the caAll the original building materials were imported from France. Tiles have been carved with the words Guichard Carvin, Marseille St André France (perhaps stating the locality where the tiles were produced). Some tiles are carved with the words “Wang-Tai Saigon”. Many tiles have since been made in Ho Chi Minh City to replace the tiles that were damaged by the war. There are 56 glass squares supplied by the Lorin firm of Chartres province in France. The cathedral foundation was designed to bear ten times the weight of the cathedral.

thedral was then-on called Notre-Dame Cathedral.

s is customary, the Vietnamese telecom wires were also present at the main gate of the church. On the facade of the church, a huge clock, this time in black, stands out greatly. The access door to the church is guarded by a metal fence painted in gold and in the outdoor, a street stall where you can buy drinks and some ice cream. The small gardens surrounding the Church, have a few few poplars, which although it is not a tree of great beauty, is rare to see this country. The images are not fully appreciated the size of this building. Its height can supuerar to a 7 or 8 plants, and plant the church can have easily 60 meters.

uilt in 1818, Quan Am Pagoda is one of the most famous and frequented pagodas in the city, attracting scores of both Vietnamese and Chinese worshippers on a daily basis. As with most temples of its kind, meticulous attention to detail was displayed in its creation, with numerous intricate carvings depicting icons of the Buddhist faith covering just about every available inch of the temple. A combination of Buddhist and Taoist symbolism, the pagoda is dedicated to the goddess of mercy, Quan Am, whose statue dominates the inner chamber. Visitors can also pay their respects to numerous other deities such as Thien Hau or The Lady of the Sea, the Jade Emperor and Amitabha, who is said to offer salvation through faith. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free to visit the pagoda, and for those who wish to fully understand the depictions within the pagoda, it would serve well to do a little background research before visiting. Address: 12 Lao Tu street, 11precinct, district 5, Saigon-HCMC Opening Hours: Daily 8:00-16:30

aigon Central Mosque is one of the 12

the mosque and dress conservatively and de-

mosques in Ho Chi Minh City. The Central

cently if you wish to enter.Furthermore you can

Mosque was built in 1935. It was originally con-

also eat halal food that is readily available right

structed for worshipers from southern

outside the mosque. Just outside the mosque there

India then resident in Saigon, but now

are people selling halal food like bread and biscuits.

Muslims from all over the world would

Just across the road there is a halal restaurant that

come here to worship. This mosque is

serves Vietnamese halal food as well.

usually crowded on Fridays. This a very peaceful place to go to understand the Muslim culture in Vietnam. The shaded verandah and cool stone floors make it an ideal place to sit, read or even nap in the heat of the day. As with most mosques, an important tip here is to remember to take your shoes off before entering 72

hùa Bà Thiên Hậu (The Pagoda of the Lady

into connection with figures and themes from Tao-

Thien Hau) is a Chinese style temple located

ism and Buddhism. For example, at Quan Âm Pa-

on Nguyễn Trãi Street in the Cho Lon (Chinatown)

goda, also in Cho Lon, Ho Chi Minh City, the two

district of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

major altars are dedicated respectively to Thiên Hậu

It is dedicated to Thiên Hậu, the Lady

and to Quan Âm (the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara).

of the Sea (“Tian Hou” as transcribed from the Chinese), who is also known as “Mazu”. Thiên Hậu is a deity of traditional Chinese religion, who is revered in the southern maritime provinces of China and in overseas Chinese communities. Thiên Hậu is worshipped in the seafaring Chinese communities of Fujian, Guangzhou, Taiwan, and Southeast Asia. She is not specifically a deity of Taoism or Buddhism, though she has been brought 73

ết, or Vietnamese New Year, is the most important celebration in Vietnamese culture. The word is a shortened form of Tết Nguyên Đán (Nôm: 節元旦), which is Sino-Vietnamese for "Feast of the First Morning of the First Day". Tết celebrates the arrival of spring based on the Vietnamese variation of the Chinese lunisolar calendar, which usually has the date falling in January or February. Tết is generally celebrated on the same day as Chinese New Year, except when the one-hour time difference between Vietnam and China results in new moon occurring on different days. It takes place from the first day of the first month of the Vietnamese calendar (around late January or early February) until at least the third day. Many Vietnamese prepare for Tết by cooking special holiday foods and cleaning the house. These foods include bánh chưng, bánh dày, dried young bamboo soup

(canh măng), giò, and sticky rice. Many customs

Tết in the three Vietnamese regions can be divid-

are practiced during Tết, such as visiting a person's

ed into three periods, known as Tất Niên (penul-

house on the first day of the new year (xông nhà),

timate New Year’s Eve), Giao Thừa (New Year’s

ancestor worship, wishing New Year's greetings,

Eve), and Tân Niên (the New Year), representing

giving lucky money to children and elderly people,

the preparation before Tết, the eve of Tết, and the

and opening a shop.

days of and following Tết, respectively..

Tết is also an occasion for pilgrims and family reunions. During Tết, Vietnamese visit their relatives

The first day of Tết is reserved for the nuclear fami-

and templeorgetting about the troubles of the past

ly. Children receive a red envelope containing mon-

year and hoping for a better upcoming year. They

ey from their elders. This tradition is called mừng

consider Tết to be the first day of spring and the

tuổi (happy new age) in the north and lì xi in the

festival is often called Hội xuân (spring festival)

south. Usually, children wear their new clothes and

Vietnamese people usually return to their families

give their elders the traditional Tết greetings before

during Tết. Some return to worship at the family

receiving the money. Since the Vietnamese believe

altar or visit the graves of their ancestors in their

that the first visitor a family receives in the year

homeland. They also clean the graves of their fam-

determines their fortune for the entire year, people

ily as a sign of respect. Although Tết is a national

never enter any house on the first day without be-

holiday among all Vietnamese, each region and re-

ing invited first. The act of being the first person to

ligion has its own customs.

enter a house on Tết is called xông đất, xông nhà

or đạp đất, which is one of the most important rituals during Tết. According to Vietnamese tradition, if good things come to the family on the first day of the lunar New Year, the entire following year will also be full of blessings. Usually, a person of good temper, morality, and success will be the lucky sign for the host family and be invited first into the house. However, just to be safe, the owner of the house will leave the house a few minutes before midnight and come back just as the clock strikes midnight to prevent anyone else entering the house first who might potentially bring any unfortunate events in the new year to the household. Sweeping during Tết is taboo or xui (unlucky), since it symbolizes sweeping the luck away; that is why they clean before the new year. It is also taboo for anyone who experienced a recent loss of a family member to visit anyone else during Tết. During subsequent days, people visit relatives and friends. Traditionally but not strictly, the second day of Tết is usually reserved for friends, while the third day is for teachers, who command respect in Vietnam. Local Buddhist temples are popular spots as people like to give donations and to get their fortunes told during Tết. Children are free to spend their new money on toys or on gambling games such as bầu cua cá cọp, which can be found in the streets. Prosperous families can pay for dragon dancers to perform at their house. Also, public performances are given for everyone to watch.

t the festival, the organization board presented more than 500 kites to visitors who felt excited when they themselves participated in flying kites. Furthermore, they were also instructed by artisans how to make a kite, fly the kite and technique on Japanese Rokkaku flying and fighting. Rokkaku is a traditional six-sided Japanese fighter kite which, traditionally, is made with bamboo spars and “washi” paper. During the festival, artisans showed the viewers wonderful performances with hundreds of kites in diverse sizes and unique shapes of fish, phoenix, dragon and octopus. They also made kites under the theme of landscapes, islands and sea that conveys a message of “Vietnam, a peace loving nation and on the way of international integration”. In the evening, the kites which were attached with LED lights created a sparkling space, fascinating the locals and visitors. Dzung, a kite artisan from Nam Dinh Province said: “When seeing my kite hovering in the sky, I feel very happy.” The image of kites is very familiar to Vietnamese people and it is closely attached to their childhood and peaceful countryside landscape. Therefore, participating in the festival tourists seemed to back to their childhood’s sweet memories. 80

early 30,000 people attended the 21st traditional ox race on October 14, a tradition among the Khmer ethnic minority. In total, 64 pairs of ox, mostly from several local districts, with the exception of two from Kirivong and Takeo districts in Cambodia, competed at the event, which is held annually on occasion of the Khmer Dolta ceremony. Pairs of oxen competed in qualifying rounds, with the winners proceeding to the next. Not only must the oxen be in excellent shape to win, but their handlers must be skilled and be able to conform to specific regulations of the contest. The first prize, of VND30-million (USD1,428), was presented to team No. 13, handled by Tran Van Cac, of Vinh Trung Commune. The second prize was awarded to team No. 44, whose handler was Nguyen Van Bup, from Luong Phi Commune. Mr. Chau Kim Song was given â&#x20AC;&#x153;best controllerâ&#x20AC;? prize, worth VND500,000. The organiser also granted four consolation prizes for teams that performed exceptionally.

he tunnels of Củ Chi are an immense network of connecting underground tunnels located in the Củ Chi district of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam, and are part of a much larger network of tunnels that underlie much of the country. The Củ Chi tunnels were the location of several military campaigns during the Vietnam War, and were the Viet Cong’s base of operations for the Tết Offensive in 1968. The tunnels were used by Viet Cong soldiers as hiding spots during combat, as well as serving as communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon caches and living quarters for numerous North Vietnamese fighters. The tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to American forces, and helped to counter the growing American military effort.

ocated between stream flows of Vam Sat and Long Tau Rivers, the Vam Sat Salt-Marsh Forest Ecological Tourist Zone, with species fauna and flora, is recognized as a biosphere reserve of the world by UNESCO and as one of two ďż˝Sustainable Development of Ecotourismďż˝ of the world in Vietnam by the World Tourism Organization. It becomes a stop point where travelers can enjoy specialties of Can gio river region.

The Binh Quoi Village (Làng Du Lịch Bình Quới in Vietnamese) is a tourist attraction in the Bình Thạnh District of Ho Chi Minh City, in southern Vietnam. The Village comprises the two parts of the Bình Quới Tourist Area. The Bình Quới Tourist Area I was established by the Vietnamese government in 1975 and 1976, while the Bình Quới Tourist Area II was built from 1979 to 1980, and the Tourist Village was established in 1994. The Tourist Village is located on the Thanh Da peninsula on the Saigon River approximately 8 km (a 20- to 30-minute drive depending on traffic) from the city center. The Tourist Village is set on lush garden-like grounds with lawns, coconut trees, creeks, and thatched cottages, presenting a view of days gone by in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta region. Rich traditional southern Vietnamese cuisine is served there, and the area features a three-level, 700-seat floating restaurant in Bạch Đằng Harbor. Entertainment includes a cultural show featuring a traditional Vietnamese wedding, complete with water-borne bridal procession, rituals, and dances. www.binhquoiresort.com.vn

THE BOOK CITY NARRATIVES-MEET THE CITY PRINTED AT CLAY’S IN 1000 PIECES FOR SAIGON-PUBLISHING DEPT. NOVEMBER 2015

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