The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE Geneva, 11 & 12 May 2019
Executives.
Edward Dolman
Cheyenne Westphal
Chief Executive Ofcer +1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
Chairman +44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
Š Brigitte Lacombe
Senior Consultants.
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Aurel Bacs
Livia Russo
Paul Boutros
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Daniella Rosa
Geof Hess
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London.
Geneva.
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Alexandre Ghotbi
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Arthur Touchot
Tifany To
Marcello de Marco
Nathalie Monbaron
Diana Ortega
Pansy Ku
Head of Sale, Specialist +41 22 317 81 89 aghotbi@phillips.com
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Hong Kong.
Thomas Perazzi
Tokyo.
Jill Chen
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Zi Yong Ho
Kenneth Chan
Head of Sale, Specialist +852 2318 2032 zho@phillips.com
Cataloguer +852 2318 2045 kchan@phillips.com
Genki Sakamoto
Taiwan.
Kaz Fujimoto
Senior Specialist Consultant Senior Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com kfujimoto@phillips.com
Cindy Yen Senior Specialist +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
International Business Directors.
Deputy Chairmen.
Svetlana Marich
Jean-Paul Engelen
Robert Manley
Jonathan Crockett
Peter Sumner
Myriam Christinaz
Bart van Son
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Co-International Business Director +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com
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Miety Heiden
Alexander Payne
Vanessa Hallett
Vivian Pfeifer
Marianne Hoet
Deputy Chairman, Head of Private Sales +44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
Deputy Chairman, Europe and Worldwide Head of Design +44 20 7318 4052 apayne@phillips.com
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Deputy Chairman, Europe, Senior Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art +852 2318 2023 mhoet@phillips.com
Zach Lu Consultant +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE Sale information Geneva, 11 & 12 May 2019
Specialist Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland
Specialist Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com
Auction 11 May 2019, 5pm Lots 1–109 12 May 2019, 5pm Lots 110-220 Under the aegis of Maître Michel Jaquiery, Huissier Judiciaire Viewing Thursday 9 May, 10am–7pm Friday 10 May, 10am–6pm Saturday 11 May, 10am–4pm Sunday 12 May, 10am–4pm Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080119 or The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE. Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com Administrator Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com Shipping & Ofce Coordinator Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60 aaubertin@phillips.com Finance & Ofce Administration Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com
Watch Department Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Sale & Specialist Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
London International Specialist James Marks +44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com Administrator & Client Liaison Helena Cross +44 20 7901 2907 helena.cross@phillips.com New York Head of Watches Americas, International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com Associate Specialist, Cataloguer Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Business Development Manager Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Consultant Geof Hess +1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com Tokyo Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Head of Watches, Hong Kong Jill Chen +852 2318 2033 jchen@phillips.com
Taiwan Senior Specialist Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Head of Sale & Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032 zho@phillips.com
Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
Cataloguer Kenneth Chan +852 2318 2045 kchan@phillips.com
Advisory Board Jean-Claude Biver Henry Chan Helmut Crott Ike Honigstock Stephen Charles Li David Lou Auro Montanari Jason Singer Kenneth Wong
Administrator Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031 jackylam@phillips.com
Welcome By Alexandre Ghotbi The Geneva Watch Auction: Nine catalogue that you are holding in your hands today is most probably one of the most exciting ones we have had the pleasure of bringing to you. It is the result of intense work by the Phillips Watches team of over half a year with an aim to inform, please and surprise you. Exciting because of the many frsts that you will fnd here, the most obvious being the cover design we have chosen. As George Daniels, the maker of the superb timepiece on our cover once said “In the hands of the great masters watchmaking becomes art” and it is our belief that watchmaking is a true art form and have thus decided to merge visual arts and horology to bring you a fresh new look. That is why we asked celebrated artist Guy Allen, known mainly for his amazing automotive illustrations, to bring his dynamic vision in creating the front and back covers. Exciting as in this catalogue we cover an amazing spectrum of timepieces with entry level watches for the budding collector to ultra-rare niche pieces for the collector who has everything. For the past two seasons we have dedicated a special section to independent watchmakers who have in their own manner redefned watchmaking but none has had an impact as important as George Daniels, a self-taught watchmaker making almost all the components of his watches by hand (including case and dials) and whose constant search for the perfect escapement led him to invent the co-axial escapement, the greatest horological invention of the past 250 years! We are honored and delighted to ofer in this sale not only the apex of his creations, the Grand Complication, the most complicated watch he ever made but also his Anniversary wristwatch both featuring his slim co-axial escapement. Another horological acme of this sale is a unique Vacheron Constantin minute repeater with day and retrograde date ordered end of 1935 and delivered in 1940. A timepiece which for over 25 years had riddled collectors and enthusiasts ever since a black and white photograph had been printed in The World of Vacheron Constantin in 1992. One of the most valuable and important vintage wristwatches made by Vacheron Constantin, it was one of the most complicated wristwatches of its time. In this sale it is our wish to pay tribute to Vacheron Constantin and we have consequently dedicated a section to the wonderful creations of this 264 year old brand. Other equally exciting highlights include an absolutely amazingly preserved factory fresh Rolex reference 8171, a Rolex 6236 “Killy” as well as an amazingly diverse selection of Rolex chronographs from early pieces from the 1940s to the iconic Cosmograph Daytona in a variety of case and dial confgurations including the ultra-coveted “John Player Special” and “Oyster Sotto” examples.
Patek Philippe is also predominantly featured in this auction with a superb selection of vintage and modern complicated pieces showcasing the incredible designs and technical mastery of the famed Geneva based manufactory. The highlights are too numerous to mention and I leave you the pleasure of browsing these pages to discover our carefully curated selection. One of our greatest surprises is not featured in this catalogue but will be only visible during our pre-auction exhibition in Geneva from May 9-12. In tribute to the greatest watchmaker of the 20th century, George Daniels, considered the grandfather of independent horology, we have organized an exhibition dedicated to the greatest independent watchmakers of our time whether past, present and future. We do not wish to reveal too much as we are looking forward in welcoming you to La Reserve but this will be a once in a lifetime opportunity to see – ofen in the presence of their makers - unique pieces, prototypes or rarely seen creations from Philippe Dufour, François-Paul Journe, Charles Frodsham, Roger Smith or Derek Pratt to name just a few. Our international team continues its growth and I am happy to announce the arrival of Geofrey Hess as Consultant based in New York to support the watch department’s collaborations, events and business initiatives. A passionate and knowledgeable watch lover, Geof is a respected member of the collector community. I started this foreword by mentioning the excitement of creating and bringing this catalogue to you. However another element easily stands out, and that is the passion of the Phillips team for watches, regardless of price, period, design and brand; we sleep, breath, eat and dream of these micro-mechanical masterpieces and hope that our enthusiasm and eclectic tastes are refected in this catalogue.
Yours Sincerely, Alexandre Ghotbi
Session one 11 May 2019, 5pm Lots 1–109
1.
ROLEX – An attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2008
Reference No.
116520
Movement No.
C0’321’239
Case No.
M’907’651
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm.
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee card dated November 2008, leather wallet, product literature, receipt, presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 2000, reference 116520 was the frst Daytona model to feature a fully in-house caliber. In production for sixteen years, it was eventually replaced by reference 116500, which features a ceramic bezel. Ofered in virtually new old stock condition, the present specimen is an exceedingly well-preserved example, having never seen polishing or any intervention throughout its lifetime. Furthermore, this watch is accompanied by its original guarantee card dated November 2008, along with a sales receipt. Both are stamped with the retailer Ronchi in Milan, Italy.
2.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1999
Reference No.
16520
Movement No.
172’568
Case No.
A’226’309
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “A Series”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-24,000 $12,100-24,100 €10,700-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated June 28, 1999.
Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most innovative models to date. Housing a heavily modifed Zenith-based caliber 4030 mechanism, the model was ftted with the frst automatic chronograph movement in the frm’s history. At the time of launch in 1988, the watch immediately became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. The present example is known as the “A Series”. Produced one year before the reference ceased production, it is today one of the most sought-afer variants of reference 16520, marking the end of an era for that model. This particular watch is preserved in most probably unpolished and unspoiled condition, featuring sharp factory fnishes to the top of the lugs. The watch is even accompanied by its original punched guarantee, having been retailed in Frischknecht Juwelier in St. Gallen, Switzerland.
3.
ROLEX – A very rare and unusual yellow gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds, marble dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1996
Reference No.
18208
Case No.
T357390
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “76B” to the end links, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
“6 S” and “7206”
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $15,100-30,200 €13,300-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee and presentation box.
The present timepiece is an extremely attractive example of how the Day-Date is used to express all of the unbridled creativity of the Rolex design department. The quintessential “luxury” Rolex timepiece, the Day-Date (and earlier, its sibling the Datejust) were conceived in the mid twentieth century as the most luxurious ofering in the Rolex lineup. In fact, the President and Jubilee bracelets were originally created specifcally for these two models and were intended to emphasize the luxury connotation of the watches. Over the years, Rolex created an astoundingly varied series of dials for these pieces, such as dials in malachite, wood, coral, fossil, lacquer, and so on. One of the most unusual, rare and attractive iteration is indeed the one exemplifed here: a dial realized with a very thin slab of marble, a material hardly ever used as a dial medium. Fresh to the market and in superlative condition - unpolished and still retaining its original green Rolex sticker to the back - the present piece is a remarkable testament to Rolex’s creativity and design boldness, and one of the most collectible Day-Date iterations known. It is furthermore accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box.
4.
ROLEX – A fne, rare and very attractive yellow gold automatic wristwatch with day, date, onyx dial, bracelet and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1994
Reference No.
18208, case back stamped to the inside “18200”
Case No.
S257592
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet stamped 55B to the endlinks, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
clasp stamped “8385”
Estimate CHF 13,000-26,000 $13,100-26,100 €11,600-23,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee stamped by London retailer Watches of Switzerland LTD and dated February 9, 1995.
The Day-Date line (together with its less complicated sibling the Datejust) has historically been a canvas for Rolex to express its unbound creativity. As a result, the model features some of the most unusual dial confgurations ever seen on a Rolex watch. The company went well beyond experimenting with diferent graphic styles, and the Day-Date can be found with dial options spacing from wood to lacquer, fossil, marble, coral etc.
Ofered in absolutely crisp and unspoiled condition, furthermore complete of its original warranty, the present example features the charismatic Onyx dial. Defned by its midnight black hue and lacquer efect, the material is in perfect contrast with the warm gold case for a powerful aesthetic result, bolstered by the absence of virtually any graphic detail and by the presence of the gold rims to the day and date window, subtly recalling the gold case.
5.
A highly attractive and the only publicly known, yellow gold wristwatch with lapis lazuli and diamond-set dial, center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2001
Reference No.
16618
Movement No.
39’861’907
Case No.
Y’762’336
Model Name
Submariner
Material
18K yellow gold, lapis lazuli and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135. 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex twinlock deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $40,200-60,300 €35,600-53,400
The present watch is, to the best of our knowledge, the only yellow gold reference 16618 to feature a lapis lazuli dial with diamond hour markers that has ever appeared on the auction market. Most reference 16618s with lapis lazuli dials feature luminous hour markers, making the present watch a singular example. It is interesting to note that the diamonds are set very similarly to the beloved SARU, reference 16758. The triangle diamond setting at 12 o’clock is notably very similar to that of the bejeweled GMT-Master. Rolex in particular excels at the incredibly time-consuming job of selecting, along with setting, well-matched hard stones and gemstones. Lapis lazuli is particularly prone to breaking, and to create this dial set with diamond hour markers was no easy feat. The watch itself is preserved in excellent and virtually new-oldstock condition. The factory sticker on the caseback is present, and even the blue sticker on the clasp of the bracelet has been preserved over time. Furthermore, the watch has seen no polishing throughout its lifetime, and the gold has developed an even layer of patina.
ROLEX Ref. 16618 Submariner “Lapis and Diamonds”
6.
A fne, very rare and extremely attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial, bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’938’097
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “71” to the endlinks, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “1 70”
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 $60,300-101,000 €53,400-89,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box.
With reference 6239, Rolex inaugurated what can arguably be considered its most iconic, successful and collectible family of watches: the Cosmograph Daytona. Originally released in the USA in 1963, it became available in Europe only the following year. The American market was chosen for its closeness to the world of car racing. In fact, even the name Daytona was selected due to its American connotation, replacing the name “Le Mans” which had originally been devised for the model. It is estimated that only about 450 examples were made in gold (either 18K or 14K), making the present example a highly collectible specimen of the frst gold Daytona model made. Such a restricted production can be explained by considering the tool watch vocation of the model, which was conceived as a sport’s watch and thus was preeminently demanded with the sturdy and lightweight stainless steel case. Adding to its undeniable aesthetic and historical appeal, the piece is ofered by its original owner and features the very rare “71” riveted bracelet, produced for a short time in the late 1960s/early 1970s. The clasp is stamped “1 70”, showing how the gold case made in late 1968 was eventually sold in 1970, further confrming the scarce appeal these gold timepieces had on the market at the time. Ironically, such scarce interest is what eventually rendered them so rare. This rarity, combined with the stunningly goods looks, makes this watch one of the most appealing timepieces to the collectors of fne Rolex wristwatches.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona
7.
A very fne and rare PVD-coated titanium limited edition skeletonised rectangular wristwatch with date, warranty and presentation box, made for The Hour Glass
Manufacturer
Richard Mille
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
RM016 AH Ti/1019
Movement No.
054’639
Case No.
12/28
Model Name
RM016 “The Hour Glass”
Material
PVD-coated titanium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. RM-AS7, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium Richard Mille deployant clasp
Dimensions
38 mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Richard Mille warranty, instruction manual, presentation box and charger.
Specially made for the retailer The Hour Glass, this iteration of the RM016 was introduced at the Singapore Tempus Watch Fair in 2007. It was part of an All-Black Commemorative Collection. The present watch is numbered 12 of a limited edition of 28 pieces. Displaying a particularly thin rectangular case and skeletonized dial, the RM016 is a design departure from Richard Mille’s usual tonneau-shaped case. Presented in excellent and barely-worn condition, this timepiece is replete with the original warranty and winding box. An incredibly versatile model, the RM016 is experiencing a renaissance, having been reimagined in the newest Bonbon Collection during the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva in 2019. In its latest reincarnation, the model is adorned with sweets and fruits made with grand feu enamel. Novel and awe-inducing, its launch sent reverberations throughout the watch community. This is an opportunity to acquire the model in a stealth form, while referencing the roots and DNA of Richard Mille.
RICHARD MILLE RM016 “The Hour Glass Limited Edition”
8.
A very attractive and rare ceramic perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet, moonphases and week indicator with winding box and guarantee
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2017
Reference No.
26579CE.OO.1225CE.01
Case No.
J79’693
Model Name
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Material
Ceramic
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 5134, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Ceramic, max. length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Ceramic deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $70,400-141,000 â‚Ź62,300-125,000 Accessories Accompanied by ftted winding box, guarantee and instruction manual.
It is not necessary to introduce the Royal Oak which for close to 50 years has been shaking up the haute horlogerie market with the introduction of many premieres. Not only was it the very frst luxury sports watch when launched in 1972, it was also the very frst luxury sports watch featuring a complication. In 1982, exactly 10 years afer its launch, the Royal Oak was presented with a perpetual calendar, not only a rare complication at the time, as very few brands were still producing them, but the audacity of housing this delicate complication in a steel sports watch was mind boggling. In 2017 Audemars Piguet once again took the world by surprise by presenting the perpetual calendar Royal Oak in full ceramic livery. This was not the frst time ceramic was used in
watchmaking and even Audemars Piguet had used it in certain components, such as bezels. However, it was the frst time a high horology watch brand was housing a sports watch in a full ceramic case and bracelet (a material that Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe do not use for the Overseas or Nautilus respectively). Ceramic is an almost scratch proof material but very difcult to use. According to Audemars Piguet, over 600 hours of research were necessary to develop the case and bracelet, and where is takes about six hours to machine, polish, hand-fnish, and assemble a steel bracelet for a steel Royal Oak, the same procedure requests over thirty hours for the ceramic version. The dashing dark looks of the watch should not deter from its elegance and technical complexity. The slender case houses the automatic caliber 5134 based on the iconic calibre 2120 as found in the original 1972 Royal Oak. Other than the traditional calendar functions, the present Royal Oak has a 52 week indicator as well as a gorgeous moonphase display with a photorealistic moon on an aventurine background for the stars. One of the hottest watches on the market, to obtain the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in ceramic requests patience as the waiting list can stretch to a few years. The present example in excellent condition and complete with winding box and papers ofers the collectors a superb opportunity to immediately obtain such a beautiful and hard to fnd timepiece.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic
9.
A very rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, champagne “tropical” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
5402
Movement No.
198’378
Case No.
A 1289
Model Name
Royal Oak “A Series”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000
Speedmaster, Reverso and Nautilus are models whose names immediately identify their design and maker. The Royal Oak without doubt is part of this elite club. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak has created and defned the luxury sports watch as we know it today. The quartz crisis of the 1970s hit Swiss manufacturers hard. To face the surging waves of cheap Japanese quartz watches and instead of ofering a more afordable watch, Audemars Piguet decided to challenge the market with audacity and disruption. It is believed that the brand gave independent designer Gerald
Genta only a day to come up with a groundbreaking design. The result was a surprisingly bold maritime inspired design featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal gold screws, visible water resistance gasket, and a dial adorned with a tapisserie motif. Its launch in 1972 was controversial not only because of its bold and audacious design but for the sheer insanity of presenting a stainless steel watch that was more expensive than the brand’s gold models. Housed within was the extra slim caliber 2121 subsequently used by Patek Philippe in the Nautilus and Vacheron Constantin in the 222. Known as the “A Series”, the present watch is among the frst batch of Royal Oaks ever produced, its most striking feature being the dial that has taken a somewhat champagne hue over time giving the watch incredible charisma. Interestingly, Audemars Piguet presented at SIHH 2019 an extra slim Royal Oak with champagne dial extremely similar to the present model. The present model is most notably distinguished by its original condition, which is remarkable as many existing examples now have service parts. The bracelet with the “fat clasp” is original, as is the smooth unsigned crown, which is correct for the period. An amazingly attractive watch the present Royal Oak in steel with its champagne dial will please the demanding collector.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 5402 Royal Oak “The Rosé Champagne A Series”
10.
ROLEX – A fne and very rare white gold tonneau-shaped electronic wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
5100
Movement No.
00’006’742
Case No.
192
Model Name
“Beta 21”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Quartz Beta 21
Bracelet/Strap
18k white gold Rolex bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200
The Beta 21 movement was frst created in 1969 and made its debut during Basel later that year. As the highest quality quartz movement to be ofered on the market, it was accurate to 5 seconds per month. Due to the movement’s large and bulky size, watchmakers soon developed their own in house movements.
The reference 5100 is a landmark model for a number of reasons. Launched in 1970, it was Rolex’s frst reference ftted with a quartz movement. Rolex frst produced 1000 units to test the ‘Beta 21’, and all examples were sold out before the watch even hit the market. The ‘Beta 21’ was also Rolex’s frst reference to feature a sapphire crystal and quick set date function – two key innovations and components that are used in Rolex’s current line of production. Cased in white gold, the present watch is exceedingly rarer compared to its siblings cased in yellow gold. To date, no more than a few handful of white gold examples have ever graced the auction market. This timepiece is furthermore preserved in excellent condition, with a crisp engraving on the case back.
11.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive white gold Arabic calendar wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1961
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
D’D35’933
Case No.
735’114
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1555, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather and 18K white gold Rolex bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex buckle and 18K white gold
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and buckle signed
deployant clasp stamped 4.65
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200
Launched in 1959, reference 1803 is one of Rolex’s longestrunning references ever produced. Excluding prototype models, the Day-Date model was cased in yellow, pink, and rarely in white gold and platinum and adorned with a variety of hard stones and gemstones. Preserved in most probably unpolished condition, this early reference 1803 is cased in white gold, which is signifcantly rarer than its yellow gold counterparts. The case is particularly stunning, with sharp, crisp and legible hallmarks beneath the lugs. The contrasting brushed and polished fnishes are particularly impressive, considering the age of this timepiece. The dial is preserved in equally admirable condition, with hardly any spotting. The Day and Date wheel is in Arabic, which is ftting, considering that many white metal Day-Dates were delivered to the Middle East.
12.
An incredibly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with only known “no Daytona” dial, bracelet, guarantee and documentation
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2003
Reference No.
116520
Movement No.
C0’150’121
Case No.
F’731’092
Model Name
Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee dated March 2, 2005, green Rolex folder with Ofcial Chronometer Certifcation booklet, sale tags and correspondence from Rolex confrming the authenticity of the present dial.
Reference 116520 replaced its predecessor reference 16520 in 2000. It most notably features caliber 4130, which is Rolex’s frst in-house chronograph movement. Today, it is an iconic model, representing one of Rolex’s many technical strides throughout horological history. The present watch is an incredibly rare and novel example of reference 116520, as the dial does not display the usually-found red ‘Daytona’ script at 6 o’clock. Most importantly, this watch is accompanied by correspondence between the owner and Rolex, confrming the originality of the dial. The watch most likely lef the Rolex factory as is, due to a quality control oversight. Today, this ‘mistake’ has rendered the present watch incredibly rare and valuable, giving it a unique appearance. To the best of our knowledge, the present watch is the only known reference 116520 with this dial confguration to have appeared on the auction market. Furthermore, the watch is preserved in excellent condition and still retains its original caseback sticker. It retains its Rolex service stickers. It is furthermore accompanied by its original guarantee, stating the watch was sold in Paris.
ROLEX Ref. 116520 Cosmograph “No Daytona”
13.
A highly rare and superb stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with silvered dial displaying ‘Jumbo Logo’ graphics and tobacco ‘tropical’ registers
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1966
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’475’697
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Jumbo Logo”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stinless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 O $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000 Provenance Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, Christie’s Geneva November 10, 2013, lot 4.
This reference 6239 most notably features subsidiary registers that have aged to a particularly even and stunning tobacco brown tone. Contrasting against the bold and unblemished white graphics, the efect is remarkable. It was previously sold at the groundbreaking thematic sale “Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch”. Carrying a 1.4 million serial number, the present watch is an early example of reference 6239. During the beginning of the model’s production, Rolex experimented with various dial confgurations in order to realize its design blueprint for the Cosmograph Daytona. While earlier reference 6239s featured a small Daytona script below “Rolex Cosmograph”, Rolex also introduced a diferent dial confguration displaying a slightly larger “Daytona” font below the “Cosmograph” inscription. These early dials represent Rolex’s ingenuity and willingness to experiment with design composition. It was only much later that Rolex defnitively printed the “Daytona” designation above the subsidiary register positioned at 6 o’clock. Apart from these details, the case is also ofered in crisp condition. The bezel, calibrated to 300 units, is correct for early examples. Furthermore, the movement bridge is stamped ROW, indicating this watch was made to be exported to the United States of America.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Chocolate Jumbo Logo”
14.
A stunning, possibly unique and extremely well preserved yellow gold and diamond-set chronograph wristwatch with pavé dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1984
Reference No.
6265
Movement No.
15’251
Case No.
8’601’276
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold and diamond-set
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑ $101,000-201,000 €89,000-178,000
This wristwatch is the concrete proof of how much Rolex marketing practices have changed over the past 30 years. The yellow gold case bears the reference 6265 between the lugs, indicating a timepiece with metal bezel and black or champagne dial. However, it is obvious the watch presents very diferent features and looks exactly the same as reference 6269, save for the reference number. In-depth analysis confrms beyond any doubt that both bezel and dial are authentic Stern creations - the dial stamped to the back with the expected Stern designations - opening speculation on how such a timepiece came to be. The most logical explanation is that the original owner had wanted reference 6269, but it was most probably not immediately available at the retailer. Thus, an order was likely placed for a dial and bezel of reference 6269, which were then mounted on a reference 6265, resulting in this “chimera”. While such a practice today would be unthinkable - for example, Rolex would never supply a spare rainbow dial or bezel - at the time it was more than encouraged, as such bejeweled timepieces were difcult to sell, and it is more than plausible that Rolex had a stock of dials and bezels which they realized would be very difcult to deplete. With more than a little bit of irony, what at the time was in all likelihood a simple escamotage to achieve the looks of reference 6269 on reference 6265 resulted in the creation of this hybrid timepiece, the likes of which the market has never seen before and it is very unlikely to see again.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Cosmograph “Six-Two-Six-Nine Dial and Bezel”
15.
A fne and extremely rare automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, engraved case back, bracelet, guarantee and box, made for the Italian Police Divers Corps
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2008
Reference No.
16600
Movement No.
32’608’487
Case No.
V318985
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “Polipetto”
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “”PJ 93160A” to the endlinks, max length 215 mm (without extension)
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “P17” and “93160A”
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card and cardholder signed by La Spezia, Italy retailer “Montres et Bijoux di Giorgini” dated December 2008 and issued to Mario Gianbalvo, diving table card and instruction in document holder, Italian Police Divers Corps DVD, Divers Corps emblem, sale tag, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its diving corps, the Italian State Police asked Rolex to produce this rare special edition, one of the last examples of a cooperation between Rolex and
a police/military corp. 78 pieces were made in total, of which only 28 bear the certifcation number of the diver to whom it was given. In the case of this watch, this ‘Brevet’ number is 383, relating to diver Mario Gianbalvo, who was given the watch in December 2008. The emblem of the Italian Police Divers Corps - the octopus - is immediately apparent on the dial and is the origin of the “Polipetto” nickname for the model (Italian for “small octopus”). The caseback engraving is executed using highvoltage electro-gravure and it reads, on the present piece, “POLIZIA DI STATO SOMMOZZATORI 1958 - 2008 BREV.SMZ N.383’. The watch is ofered in absolutely mint and unworn condition, and comes with its original box, guarantee, plastic guard for the bezel, chronometer tag, a leather folder containing a doubleended tool for adjusting the bracelet, extended link, a credit card sized Buehlman diving table, and a uniform patch, bearing the Octopus insignia. The Sea-Dweller “Polipetto” can indisputably be considered one of the rarest and most collectible Rolex “tool” watches of modern times. Highlighting its importance in the pantheon of highly sought-afer Rolex watches, the Octopus is featured on the cover of Mondani and Ravagnani’s seminal work “Rolex Submariner Story”. To fnd a Polipetto, furthermore one of the 28 bearing the brevet number, in absolutely mint condition and complete of such a wealth of accessories is without a doubt an outstandingly rare opportunity for the collector of rare timepieces.
ROLEX Ref. 16600 Sea-Dweller “Polipetto”
16.
ROLEX – A very rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and emerald-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1978
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0’132’471
Case No.
5’679’825
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and emeralds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200
Reference 18038 most notably features a sapphire crystal and an upgraded caliber 3055 that enabled a quick set date function. These were two upgrades from reference 1803, which was ftted with an acrylic crystal and did not allow the wearer to simply change the date by pulling out the crown half way. The present watch is one among an exceedingly limited number of Day-Dates featuring emerald baguette numerals. Bright and translucent, the diamonds and emeralds pop against the champagne dial, giving the watch a singular appearance. Such examples come to the market very rarely, and when they do, it is a notable occasion. This timepiece is preserved in excellent condition, with crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs. Most probably unpolished, it even features the original Rolex sticker on the caseback, attesting to its untouched condition.
17.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and ruby-set calendar wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1982
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0’770’099
Case No.
7’372’853
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold, rubies and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Provenance Glamorous Day-Date Phillips Geneva May 9, 2015, lot 27.
Introduced to the market in 1956, the Day-Date has seen a multitude of watch design variations. It is one of the most varied, unusual and creative models the frm has ever produced. Produced between 1977 and 1988, reference 18038 is characterized by its yellow gold case, bracelet and futed bezel. The model most notably features a sapphire crystal. It is furthermore distinguished by the diamond and rubyset champagne dial, giving it an incredibly glamorous edge. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent condition with crisp edges and sharp fnishes. It most likely has never seen polishing throughout its lifespan. Its provenance is particularly noteworthy, having been sold at the Glamorous Day-Date Phillips Geneva auction on May 9, 2015, lot 27.
18.
A very fne, rare and extremely attractive stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, tropical “Mark II” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D’423’043
Case No.
2’215’233
Model Name
“Single Red” Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “380” to the endlinks, max length 185mm (without extension)
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “3 72”
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 $25,100-35,200 €22,200-31,100
In production from 1967 to 1979, reference 1680 features an interesting evolution: most notably, early examples such as this one were given a red “Submariner” designation on the dial, while later examples feature white graphics. Adding rarity and fair, Red Submariners (as opposed to their Sea-Dweller counterparts the “Double Red”) are today extremely soughtafer. Even within the Red Submariner family of dials, one can notice an evolution of the graphics with 6 variations (Marks). The present early specimen features a Mark II dial, recognizable from the meter frst arrangement of the depth rating, a feature shared by Mark I to Mark III dials. Mark II dials are furthermore defned by the very thin font used for the depth rating. Mark II (and also Mark III) dials can be found on examples from about 2.15M serial to 2.45M and it is estimated that less than 5% of the total 1680 made feature this dial. Adding to this remarkable rarity, the present watch features a dial which has tropicalized over time to an incredibly even and attractive milk chocolate tonality, making this piece a superlative gem from the already highly collectible Red Submariner family.
ROLEX Ref. 1680 Submariner “Tropical”
19.
ROLEX – A fne and very rare yellow gold automatic dual time wristwatch with center seconds and date
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D869795
Case No.
2’605’719
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,100-18,100 €10,700-16,000
It is well known that the Rolex GMT-Master was born afer a joint efort of Pan American Airlines and Rolex to create a pilot’s wristwatch. Reference 6542 was the frst iteration of the product line and was originally made for pilots to keep track of “home” and “local” times. The reference 1675 was its successor, building on the model’s tool watch lineage, and was ofered in stainless steel, stainless steel and gold, and all gold models. The professional vocation of the watch means that gold models are comparatively much more scarce and difcult to come by, especially in such attractive condition as the present piece: these were watches which were usually worn extensively by their original owner. The rich tones of the gold and brown bezel and dial, boosted by decades of aging, provide the wearer a glimpse into the golden era of travel. A handsome example, this GMT-Master ticks all the boxes for both the casual and serious collector with its distinguished gold case, beautiful dial, and excellent condition. It will bring years of pleasure to its next owner.
20.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond and sapphire-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1985
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
1’669’549
Case No.
9’894’732
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold and sapphires
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300
Ever glamorous and luxurious, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. The frm has elevated its Day-Date models with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even fossil, providing an unusual design twist to the iconic model. This rare variant of reference 18038 is ftted with a dial displaying beautiful sapphire baguette-set numerals and champagne tone. It is furthermore preserved in excellent and impressive condition. The case has probably never seen polishing throughout its lifetime, and the dial displays luminous dots that are round and intact, having aged with warm patina.
21.
An extremely attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
6265
Movement No.
1598
Case No.
3’607’179
Model Name
Cosmograph
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal.727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K Rolex deployant clasp stamped C I and 75
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 $60,300-101,000 €53,400-89,000
References 6263 and 6265, were simultaneously launched in the late 1960s to replace the reference 6240 that was the frst Oyster Cosmograph with screw down pushers. In production for almost 20 years, the two references were ofered respectively with a metal or acrylic insert, either on stainless steel or gold. The present example is part of a very small production, made for the US market and characterized by a 14K yellow gold case and bracelet. Interestingly, a 4-digit number is engraved on the plate behind the balance wheel next to the caliber number. This feature was found on most of the gold examples of the 1970s and 1980s. The black dial of this watch is in excellent condition, with fully luminous hour markers along the outer ring, all of which are present and intact. Additionally, the yellow gold subdials have started to age to a pleasing darker shade. Beautifully completed by an original riveted 14K yellow gold Oyster bracelet stamped Rolex USA and CI, the watch exults a subtle but sumptuous style.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Cosmograph
22.
A very attractive and well preserved stainless steel dual time wristwatch with Bakelite bezel, bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1959
Reference No.
6542 inside caseback further stamped III.59
Movement No.
DN899’389
Case No.
482’834
Model Name
GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1066, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex expandable riveted Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 58, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.60
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-90,000 $60,300-90,500 €53,400-80,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box with outer packaging and hang tag.
The Rolex GMT-Master reference 6542’s history which originated from a commission from the Pan American Airways to come up with the perfect tool watch for their pilots is very well known to collectors. As one of the most iconic vintage wristwatches, its fragile Bakelite bezel played a signifcant role in the difculty we have today in fnding one in original and good condition. Another event that built the myth of this watch is its appearance in the movie Goldfnger. In this James Bond movie, Bond Girl, Pussy Galore, is spotted wearing the dual time zone wristwatch with bicolor bezel. In this same movie, Bond was wearing a Submariner reference 6538 that was also nicknamed afer him. The choice to provide Pussy Galore with a GMTMaster was logical as his character was employed by Goldfnger as she was “a damn good pilot” as she asserted to James Bond when they frst met. The present GMT-Master is ofered in excellent condition. The Bakelite bezel is still in excellent condition, the case bears strong proportions and the expandable bracelet shows below average stretch. This watch will defnitely be a great addition to any watch collection, either because it is a watch with nickname, a watch with strong history or a watch that comes in great condition with its box.
ROLEX Ref. 6542 GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
23.
A rare and historically important yellow gold chronograph wristwatch having been ofered by Ayrton Senna to Angelo Parrilla
“A Angelo da Ayrton 1978� (to Angelo from Ayrton) these few words convert this elegant Rolex Daytona reference 16528 into a watch any motorsport petrol head could dream of. By 1990, Ayrton Senna da Silva had achieved every success in the pinnacle of motorsport. Crowned Formula One World Champion in 1990, following his move to McLaren in 1988, he had tasted major success as well as being labelled one, if not the greatest talents of his generation. And yet he also had to come to terms with the less pleasant sides of Formula One, the politics following the loss of the title to his team mate in Japan the season previous, the torment of whether to leave the sport he harboured such a huge passion for and fnally the reality of the dangers of his profession following Martin Donnelly’s accidents in testing at Jerez. He was scared, refective, but determined to pursue his desire to be the best. It was during one of these refective moments that Ayrton Senna was asked who was the greatest driver he raced against? He gave the simple answer of a team mate he raced in Karting, when racing was about pure driving pleasure with no politics and no money involved.
ROLEX Ref. 16528 Cosmograph Daytona “A Angelo da Ayrton 1978”
23.
A rare and historically important yellow gold chronograph wristwatch having been ofered by Ayrton Senna to Angelo Parrilla
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1989
Reference No.
16528 case back stamped 16500
Movement No.
12’572
Case No.
R944769
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 103, 190mm max. length
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 • $101,000-201,000 €89,000-178,000 Accessories Accompanied by autographed picture of Ayrton Senna, autographed faceguard, letter from Angelo Parrilla confrming the watch was gifed to him, photographs, original box, service guarantee, pouch, product literature.
Racing was his passion and karting was the sport that enabled Senna to reach the iconic status that he still enjoys today, over 20 years following his untimely death, as one of the world’s greatest F1 drivers. The present outstanding early foating dial Daytona reference 16528 is a tribute to the man who helped shape Senna’s career from the start as attested by the message engraved
on the caseback: “A Angelo da Ayrton 1978”. Its recipient was Angelo Parrilla, a legend in Karting and the founder of DAP who “discovered” and brought Senna to Italy by establishing a relationship with the then 18-year-old that went far beyond the sporting association. Quite simply Parrilla was an early mentor for arguably the greatest Formula One driver of all time and this yellow gold Daytona symbolises the appreciation for the memories that kept Senna strong during his darkest days. Apart from all the emotion attached to this watch it is hard to overlook the features that make it stand out on its own. One could contrast the gold, yellow, with the colour that adorned Senna’s helmet during his lifetime. Furthermore, this R series 16528, the earliest iteration of Rolex’s frst automatic gold chronograph Daytona, is ftted with the desirable and rare foating dial and Mark 1 bezel prized by collectors. The present watch is not only ofered in superb condition but comes with a series of accessories making it a must have for any Formula One fan including a signed faceguard of Senna’s driving helmet. This timepiece spans more than horology. It is part of a unique history between one of the most iconic watches in the world, the sport that the Daytona is synonymous for and one of its greatest ever drivers. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
ROLEX Ref. 16528 Cosmograph Daytona “A Angelo da Ayrton 1978”
24.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with chocolate “tropical” dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1973
Reference No.
6263 inside case back stamped 6262
Case No.
3’365’443
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-140,000 O $80,400-141,000 €71,200-125,000 Provenance Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, Christie’s Geneva November 10, 2013: Lot 24. Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped by the retailer Luciano Franz, Udine and dated November 14, 1981, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Rolex introduced the references 6263 and 6265 in 1969 as the successors to the frst Oyster Cosmograph, the reference 6240. These upgraded tool watches came with new screw down pushers, an upgraded crown and movement - the caliber 727, and ofered enhanced water resistance to 50 meters. Preserved in excellent condition, this reference 6263 displays a stunning dial that has changed over time from black, to a harmonious and rich chocolate brown tone, contrasting against the white graphics. It is remarkable how the dial has aged in such an even manner. Furthermore, the case is preserved in stunning condition, with sharp satin fnishes on top of the lugs and crisp edges. A second-generation example, it’s ftted with original Mk2 pushers and features a ‘three-liner’ dial displaying “Rolex Oyster Cosmograph” which is correct for the 3.36 million serial number. Its provenance is particularly noteworthy as the present timepiece was sold at the historical thematic sale, Daytona “Lesson One”.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “Tropical”
25.
A fne and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet made for the Peruvian Air Force
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
3’956’027 inside caseback stamped
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph “Fuerza Aerea del Peru”
Material
Stainless steel
with repeated case number
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 Jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max. length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 7-70
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000 Accessories Accompanied by Original ftted box, blank guarantee and product literature. Literature The reference 6263 “FAP” is illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo Editions, pages 384 to 387.
It seems unimaginable to the collectors of the present day that a wristwatch as collectible as the Rolex Daytona was issued to members of the armed services. But such was the case with the Peruvian Air Force, or Fuerza Aerea del Peru (“FAP”), who ordered Rolex watches for their pilots. They ordered another brand of chronograph watches before the early 1960s, but eventually that was overtaken solely by Rolex, supposedly due to a relationship with the eminent Rolex authorized dealer in Peru. Typical of special-issued Rolexes, the serial number between the lugs is repeated within the inner caseback. There is a small hole on the outer case back, near the ‘teeth’. This hole was used to secure the case back while Rolex stamped the markings. This example also bears a rare “Sigma” dial, indicated that the indexes were struck in white gold – a little bit of luxury for the rugged military type.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Oyster Cosmograph “Fuerza Aerea del Peru”
26.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A rare and attractive platinum wristwatch with original certifcate
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1999
Reference No.
5022P-012
Movement No.
1’867’605
Case No.
4’050’876
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 215, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
33,5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated December 24, 1999, leather wallet and product literature.
Patek Philippe reference 5022 was in production from 1997 until 2003 and it was available in yellow, pink and white gold, but the platinum version is by far the rarest. Cased in a traditional and timeless Calatrava case, this fne timepiece sports an elegant 33.5mm diameter. Designed to sit comfortably on the wrist and have the shirt sleeve cover it with elegance, this watch will perfectly complement the refnement of business suits. The present reference 5022 in platinum is in perfect condition. The lugs are proudly displaying crisp hallmarks and the black Breguet numerals contrast beautifully with the fawless white dial. Further accompanied by the original Certifcate of Origin, this is the kind of timepiece that will appeal to any men of taste.
27.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A fne, rare and elegant white gold annual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, moonphases, power reserve indication, certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2012
Reference No.
5146G-010
Movement No.
5’679’815
Case No.
4’581’807
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S IRM QA LU, 36 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
stamped with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 16,000-22,000 $16,100-22,100 €14,200-19,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by UK retailer Mappin & Webb / Watches of Switzerland and dated August 17, 2012, product literature, leather wallet and wooden presentation box.
Reference 5146 is part of the annual calendar line of wristwatches by Patek Philippe. Intriguingly enough, Patek Philippe was the frst watchmaker ever to ofer an annual calendar watch with reference 5035, launched in 1996. Before this innovation, watchmakers were ofering either highly complicated perpetual calendar pieces, or relatively simple triple calendar watches, without an intermediate step. The success of this complication prompted Patek Philippe to introduce it in a variety of timepieces: from the Nautilus 5726, to the chronograph 5980. However, reference 5146 maintains intact the aesthetic canons of the original reference 5035, distinguished by three subsidiary counters at 2, 6 and 10 o’clock. This architecture coupled with the distinguished slate grey dial and the timeless Calatrava proportions of the case creates a supremely elegant timepiece. Reference 5146 was launched in 2005 in yellow and white gold. The platinum version debuted the following year and fnally 2008 saw the introduction of the pink gold version. So far, 19 white gold examples with a slate dial have appeared on the market.
28.
An exceedingly rare and incredibly attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with champagne dial and moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1988
Reference No.
3940
Movement No.
771’004
Case No.
2’844’745
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 Q, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $25,100-45,200 €22,200-40,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with gilt dial and raised gold indexes in 1988 and its subsequent sale on February 26, 1988 with remarks stating the original solid case back was replaced by a sapphire-crystal case back during a servicing in the workshops in 1998.
Reference 3940 is one of the most iconic models that Patek Philippe ever produced. Launched in 1985 under the tutelage of Mr. Philippe Stern, it marked a design shif for the manufacture’s perpetual calendar models. No longer sharp and elongated, the case transformed into a tonneau-shaped
Calatrava-style design. Most notably, the frst 25 examples were specially made for the 225th anniversary of Chronométrie Beyer and displayed a champagne dial with the individual number at 6 o’clock. This beautiful frst generation reference 3940 is very remarkable due to a number of reasons. It most notably displays a champagne dial, which is confrmed by the Extract from the Archives. Shimmering and fnished with utmost care, this champagne dial is visually arresting. Mr. Stern himself donned a reference 3940 with champagne dial, attesting to the beauty of this exact model. The present watch is one of only fve known frst series examples to be ftted with the present dial. Interestingly, the Extract from the Archives mentions that the original solid caseback was replaced by a sapphire-crystal case back during a servicing in the Patek Philippe workshops in 1998. First generation reference 3940s were ftted with a solid caseback. It thus comes as no surprise that a loyal and privileged client of Patek Philippe would want an upgraded caseback to admire the beautifully-fnished caliber 240Q. Such requests were only granted on a case by case basis, and it is not improbable that this wish was approved by Mr. Philippe Stern himself. This feature adds another level of desirability and exclusivity to the present timepiece.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3940 “Champagne”
29.
A rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and additional caseback
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1993
Reference No.
3970E
Movement No.
876’650
Case No.
2’934’761
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27-70, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-120,000 O $70,400-121,000 €62,300-107,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe additional case back, setting pin and presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the watch with semi-glossy black dial and diamond hour-markers in 1993 and its subsequent sale on December 22, 1993.
Launched in 1986 and in production until 2004, reference 3970 replaced reference 2499. Both models shared certain features such as pump pushers and down turned stepped lugs. However, reference 3970 presented certain details, enabling it to proudly step into contemporary horology. Patek Philippe replaced the Valjoux movement with a heavily modifed Lemania 2310 ébauche dubbed CH 27-70Q. Furthermore, two new indications were added to reference 3970, a leap year indication and a 24 hour hand. The reference was divided into three series: the frst series featured a snap on caseback, with applied gold baton indexes and feuille hands. The second series featured a screw-down, solid caseback, with the hallmarks stamped on the outside of the lugs. The third series featured a sapphire display back along with a screw-down solid caseback. This third series example is preserved in excellent condition. The letter E in 3970E represents “étanche” or “water-resistant”. Most importantly, the inside rim of the sapphire crystal back carries the engraved reference 3970, as well as the movement and case numbers. The additional case back is furthermore engraved with the reference number and the case number.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970E Platinum
30.
The only known and attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with original certifcate, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2004
Reference No.
3940
Movement No.
3’127’413
Case No.
4’283’275
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed, dial further signed by retailer
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $40,200-60,300 €35,600-53,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin typed Tifany & Co., setting pin and presentation box. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2004 with opaline dial, white gold laped indexes and dot minute track and its subsequent sale on September 30, 2004.
First launched in 1985, reference 3940 replaced the existing perpetual calendar wristwatch, reference 3450. Featuring a circular-shaped case, the watch presented a decidedly more “modern” and less angular appearance than its predecessor. At the time of manufacture, it was among one of Patek Philippe’s longest running references ever produced, ceasing production in approximately 2007. The reference was cased predominantly in yellow gold, as well as pink gold, white gold and very rarely and exclusively, in platinum. This platinum reference 3940 is distinguished by the coveted Tifany & Co. script within the date ring at 6 o’clock. Preserved in excellent condition, it is ofered with its Certifcate of Origin confrming its sale at Tifany & Co. To the best of our knowledge, the present watch is the only platinum 3940 with the Tifany & Co. signature at 6 o’clock, underscoring its absolute rarity.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3940 “Tifany & Co.”
The Independents Atelier George Daniels, the greatest watchmaker of the 20th century and the frst true independent watchmaker once said “Independence is the utmost importance in life. Without it you are subject to the whims of other people. You are pinned down to a particular area, a particular routine. Independence is crucially important in life, especially in the life of a watchmaker.” These words resonate profoundly with the watchmakers and creators that we are featuring in our Independents’ Atelier, a section dedicated to independent watchmaking. This is the third season we ofer a selection of carefully curated timepieces from some of the most creative and talented independent watchmakers who have or are shaping watchmaking in a very personal manner. For Dr. Daniels the only possible path for a watchmaker was independence, but this independence also ofers immense possibilities to the collector: to own a timepiece bearing its creator’s soul, DNA and philosophy. We are honored to ofer the George Daniels Grand Complication,that given its sheer complexity, number of complications and unparalleled degree of crafsmanship, represents the pinnacle of Daniels’ work who is himself the pinnacle of 20th century watchmaking. In short, the Grand Complication is the best by the best. The Daniels Anniversary Watch made with his protégé Roger Smith, to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the groundbreaking co-axial escapement by Daniels is also a highlight of this section.
The watches ofered this season are as distinctive as the watchmakers who made them. We have watches from legends such as François-Paul Journe and his pioneering Resonance and Octa Lune as well as an amazing timepiece with double direct escapement and a dial that is a work of art in its own right by Kari Voutilainen, whose hand fnished movements are lauded by the cognoscenti. At the same time, we are showcasing the afordable yet superlative Habring2X Massena Lab, the futuristic and provocative designs of the Opus series alongside the delicate elegant lines of Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down or the surprising Laurent Ferrier Galet Surprise Tourbillon. We also welcome this season creators who are not watchmakers but independent thinkers who have in their own way changed our perception of design and watchmaking, may it be Gerald Genta and his Grand Sonnerie or MB&F with his viciously cool and technically mind boggling creations. This selection encompasses ultimately diferent watches for diferent tastes but each and every piece ofered within this section is a watch perfectly embodying the unbridled philosophy of its maker. We can conclude, like we began, with the words of George Daniels: “The egocentricity of the artist cannot be changed, indeed if it did change there would be no artists, only committees” and we can proudly confrm that there are no committee designed watches in this section only true works of art.
Kari Voutilainen
Maximilian Büsser
Andreas Strehler
Ludovic Ballouard
Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk)
François-Paul Journe
Gérald Genta
George Daniels
Richard and Maria Habring
François Mojon
Laurent Ferrier
31.
A fascinating and attractive limited edition music box in the shape of a spaceship
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
Circa 2012
Reference No.
AXA.72.5865.000
Model Name
Music Machine 1
Material
Black lacquered walnut with black matte-anodized aluminum
Calibre
Manual
Dimensions
395 x 475 x 165 mm
Signed
Stamped Reuge by MB&F
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by a wooden base, ftted box, cleaning cloth, brush and instruction manual.
Prior to the Legacy Machine 1 which is a 21st Century tribute to the horological masters of the past, the Horological Machine 6 which is an incredible space machine for the wrist, we are proud to ofer a third piece from the incredible creative lab of MB&F.
The Music Machine 1 is a music box that forges a new vision both in terms of design and function. A true “toy for boys”, this is an object that delights our inner child. Made by famed Swiss music box maker Reuge, the Music Machine 1 is shaped like a spaceship and contrary to the habitual classical music tunes found in music boxes, it plays a total of 6 diferent tunes via two cylinders. The cylinders contain ‘the scores’ of the melodies, with as many as 1,400 precision-placed pins that pluck the teeth of the comb as the cylinder revolves. The lef cylinder takes us to a galaxy far away and plays the Star Wars theme, the Imperial March (also from Star Wars) and the theme from Star Trek. The right cylinder is dedicated to rock’n’roll with Pink Floyd’s Another Brick in the Wall, Deep Purple’s Smoke on the Water and John Lennon’s Imagine. The Music Machine 1 was made in two versions each limited to 33 pieces: white lacquered walnut with bead-blasted and anodized aluminum and black lacquered walnut with black matte-anodized aluminum like the present version. An object like no other, the present Music Machine is playful, imaginative, decadent and a hand stretched out to our inner child.
MB&F Music Machine 1
32.
An extremely rare, historically important and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with power reserve indicator and date
Considered as one of the greatest watchmakers of the past century and the grandfather of independent horology, George Daniels’ body of work consisted on a constant desire to improve upon the traditional lever escapement. His co-axial escapement, invented in 1975, was considered to be the greatest horological innovation of the past 250 years. This escapement is a modifcation of the lever escapement with some features of the detent escapement. It functions with a system of three pallets that separate the locking function from the impulse, avoiding the sliding friction of the lever escapement. This makes lubrication of the pallets theoretically unnecessary and thereby minimizes one of the shortcomings of the traditional lever escapement. In celebration of the 35th anniversary of this groundbreaking invention, George Daniels set out to produce 35 hand-made watches. Inspired by his famous tourbillon chronograph pocket watch created in 1994, Daniels and Roger Smith set out to create a new British caliber that was to be produced by Roger W. Smith and fnished to Daniels’ exacting standards and style.
GEORGE DANIELS Anniversary Watch
32.
An extremely rare, historically important and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with power reserve indicator and date
Manufacturer
George Daniels
Year
circa 2010
Movement No.
Movement stamped with limited edition number 24/35
Model Name
Anniversary Watch
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, co-axial escapement
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold George Daniels deployant buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 180,000-360,000 ∑ $181,000-362,000 €160,000-320,000 Accessories Accompanied by an original ftted box with key, presentation manual, cleaning cloth, setting pin and extra alligator strap. Literature George Daniels : A Master Watchmaker and His Art by Michael Clerizo.
The Anniversary Watch is a concentrate of Daniels’ genie and design ethos in a wristwatch, says Daniels about this piece: “My goal has always been to make watches which provide historical, technical, intellectual, aesthetic, amusing and useful qualities. This wristwatch is a culmination of over 40 years of watchmaking and unashamedly takes inspiration from several pieces in my body of work. The 18 carat gold case houses a completely new and original Daniels calibre which is ftted with a calendar and power reserve complication and, along with the minute, hour and seconds, provides all the information that a fne watch should.” The 40mm gold case sits perfectly on the wrist whereas the hand guilloché dial is a gem of design and crafsmanship. The movement tactfully balances traditional British looks and the groundbreaking co-axial escapement. Only 35 of these pieces were ever made, and the present Daniels Anniversary Watch would be a wonderful addition to any collection of distinction. And, indeed, an opportunity that the most demanding and educated collectors should not miss.
GEORGE DANIELS Anniversary Watch
33.
A fne and rare platinum dual time wristwatch with double escapement, original guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2007
Case No.
313-RN
Model Name
Resonance
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Guarantee dated November 19, 2007, product literature, polishing cloth, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Since its launch in 2000, the Resonance is one of contemporary horology’s most iconic pieces. Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier, Journe rose to the challenge in 1983 and created a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon and launched a wristwatch 17 years later. It was the world’s frst wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon whereby the movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance efect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy. In addition to being a maverick, the Chronomètre à Resonance is also an extremely useful dual time watch. Featuring a 40-millimeter case and out of regular production, this second generation model is one of the most classic iterations of the Resonance. It is complete with its original certifcate and presentation box, further adding to its collectibility.
F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre à Resonance
34.
A unique, spectacular and historically important yellow gold instantaneous perpetual calendar minute repeating openface watch with moonphases, thermometer, power reserve, equation of time, annual calendar and one minute co-axial tourbillon
“Watchmaking is not a technology, it is a craft, something you do with your hands. In the hands of the great masters it becomes art.” George Daniels in A Master Watchmaker and His Art by Michael Clerizo. It is a privilege and an honor for us to ofer you, what we consider to be George Daniels’ greatest masterpiece, a watch of incomparable beauty, elegance and harmony. A watch whose historical importance and relevance cannot be underlined enough. A watch fully hand-made by one of the greatest watchmaking geniuses to have graced the 20th century. Nothing destined young Daniels to become one of the most prominent names in watchmaking, yet, an encounter with a pocket watch at the age of fve would not only change his life but watchmaking as we know it today. The movement of that watch opened up unfathomable possibilities in the small child’s brain and magic happened.
Sketches for the dial engravings
GEORGE DANIELS The George Daniels Grand Complication
34.
A unique, spectacular and historically important yellow gold instantaneous perpetual calendar minute repeating openface watch with moonphases, thermometer, power reserve, equation of time, annual calendar and one minute co-axial tourbillon
Wishing to free himself from an early life of poverty, and afer having worked for a short time in a mattress factory, Daniels’ horological career began as a trade watch repairer, a skill that was self-taught. In his autobiography All in Good Time, Daniels’ wrote of that period “I resolved never again, except by force of law, to follow a path that did not appeal to me“. And never did he have to. Shortly afer WWII, Daniels set up his own workshop repairing watches and, in his spare time, restoring automobiles for himself. However, a turning point in his life came in 1960 when he met Cecil ‘Sam’ Clutton. Sam was, like George, a connoisseur of vintage cars, but he was also a man with an impressive antique watch collection, and with many connections to other horological collectors and institutions. These connections provided superb watches, by some of the greatest past makers, for Daniels to study and work on. The late 1960s began to see the arrival, en masse, of inexpensive electronic and quartz watches. They were objects that held no fascination for Daniels. He was so disillusioned about their arrival that he briefy considered abandoning watch repair in favor of automobile restoration. But he was saved by Abraham-Louis Breguet; Daniels held Breguet in exceptionally high esteem, citing him as his single greatest infuence. Over time he became a renowned expert on Breguet’s work and wrote the defnitive book on the company.
The perpetual calendar mechanism
Daniels embarked on his frst creation in 1968; a gold and silver cased 1-minute pivoted detent chronometer tourbillon with retrograde hour indication. The elegant form, simplicity, equilibrium and legibility of the dial were to become distinctive characteristics of the Daniels oeuvre. For Daniels, “watches should provide historical, technical, intellectual, aesthetic, amusing and useful qualities.” A mantra he applied to all his creations. From the outset, Daniels closely adhered to these prerequisites when designing and constructing his watches. He frequently repeated this mantra when discussing his watches and explaining what he was trying to achieve. The case, dial and movements of his watches were to be instantly recognizable as a Daniels, each was to be hand-made to the highest standards, and the movements were to incorporate interesting and innovative mechanical features. Daniels rarely worked on commissions and sold watches only when they were fnished. The connoisseur chosen for his very frst watch was Sam Clutton who said of it “That one man could have the intellectual ability to design such a mechanism; the technical ability to execute it with an exactitude second to almost none of the great masters of the past; and the artistic ability to endow it with such a strikingly elegant appearance; seems an almost incredible assembly of talent and perseverance”.
The Grand Complication is on Daniels' workbench
GEORGE DANIELS The George Daniels Grand Complication
34.
A unique, spectacular and historically important yellow gold instantaneous perpetual calendar minute repeating openface watch with moonphases, thermometer, power reserve, equation of time, annual calendar and one minute co-axial tourbillon
The following eight watches by Daniels, constructed between 1970 and 1975, were evolutions of the 1-minute tourbillion with spring detent escapement. The last of the series included a ffeen second remontoire and equation of time indication. Daniels creative genius eventually led him to his frst escapement invention – the Double wheel chronometer escapement. This escapement had the advantage that impulse is delivered directly to the balance, with no lubrication, which in turn gives long term stability of rate. Daniels frst watch in this series went to Seth Atwood for the Time Museum. Further iterations were constructed, culminating in two iconic watches known as the ‘Space Travellers’. Utilizing the two-trains that were required for the escapement, both watches displayed mean-solar and sidereal time. The design and reliability of the Double wheel chronometer escapement became the inspiration for Daniels second escapement invention – the Co-axial. Legend has it that Daniels awoke in the middle of the night in 1975 with the exact image in his mind of what this escapement was to look like. Considered as one of the greatest innovations in horology of the past 250 years, the Co-axial is a modifcation of the lever escapement with some features of the detent escapement. It functions with a system of three pallets that separate the locking function from the impulse, avoiding the sliding friction of the lever escapement. This makes lubrication of the pallets theoretically unnecessary and thereby minimizes one of the shortcomings of the traditional lever escapement. The Co-axial was ftted to fve Daniels watches created between 1975 and 1986, all of which proved to be excellent timekeepers. During this period Daniels approached the Swiss watch industry with a view to incorporating the Co-axial escapement as an alternative to the lever escapement in a wristwatch. In 1999, Omega agreed to adopt the Co-axial, subsequently investing signifcantly in it, to enable its adoption. Today the Co-axial is used in a large part of Omega’s current wristwatch collection. 1999 also saw the introduction of the Daniels Millennium wristwatch, a limited series of watches also incorporating the Co-axial. These were constructed by Daniels and his protégé Roger Smith.Two additional ingenious pocket watches were conceived and completed by Daniels, a four minute tourbillon with compact chronograph, and the most ambitious and complex watch he ever made, the Grand Complication.
GEORGE DANIELS The George Daniels Grand Complication
“watches should provide historical, technical, intellectual, aesthetic, amusing and useful qualities” George Daniels
34.
A unique, spectacular and historically important yellow gold instantaneous perpetual calendar minute repeating openface watch with moonphases, thermometer, power reserve, equation of time, annual calendar and one minute co-axial tourbillon
Manufacturer
George Daniels
Year
1987
Model Name
Grand Complication
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, co-axial escapement
Dimensions
62mm Diameter
Signed
Dial and movement signed Daniels London
Estimate In excess of CHF 1,500,000 In excess of $1,510,000 In excess of €1,330,000 Accessories Accompanied by original ftted box and chain. Literature The Grand Complication is illustrated in Watchmaking by George Daniels Plate XXII. The watch is further featured in George Daniels A Watchmaker and His Art by Michael Clerizo. Exhibited Clockmakers' Company Museum, London, August 2015 – June 2018 George Daniels Retrospective Exhibition, Sotheby’s London, 18-23 July 2006 British Clock and Watchmaking Exhibition, Goldsmiths Hall, London, 19th October – 6th November 1987
A mechanical tour de force, the Grand Complication stands apart in the Daniels production. Fully hand made, it is the only Daniels timepiece to feature an instantaneous perpetual calendar with retrograde date and minute repeater, both mechanisms to Daniels’ own design. The sublime layout of the engine-turned dial, and the fnesse of the gold case and gilt movement show the artistry of the maker, combining
the majority of the complications incorporated in his earlier watches: moonphases, diferential screw mechanism for the reserve of winding, bimetallic centigrade thermometer, Daniels keyless pendant and bow, co-axial 1-minute tourbillon, and annual calendar with kidney cam and equation of time indication. The Grand Complication was retained by Daniels for his personal use and was never sold during his lifetime, further underlining the special signifcance of this watch. That this watch also incorporates the Daniels Co-axial escapement further elevates this timepiece to an even greater level of historical importance. The infuence of George Daniels as a pioneer, and the founding father of modern independent watchmaking, cannot be emphasized enough. Through his watches and publications, particularly Watchmaking, he has and continues to inspire countless international independent watchmakers to follow their dreams and create their own watches and ethos. For a collector of independent horology nothing is more exclusive than to own a George Daniels watch. The present lot is of huge historical importance and represents the absolute pinnacle of his oeuvre. We would like to thank David Newman of the George Daniels Educational Trust, Roger W Smith OBE of Roger Smith Ltd, Richard Stenning and Philip Whyte of Charles Frodsham & Co for their precious input, photos and sketches.
GEORGE DANIELS The George Daniels Grand Complication
34.
Catalogue Raisonné of George Daniels Watches
POCKET WATCHES The Clutton (private collection) – Hallmarked and sold 1969 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Pivoted detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Marryat (private collection) – Hallmarked 1969, sold 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Bloomfeld (private collection) – Hallmarked 1969, sold 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Hornby (private collection) – Hallmarked 1970, sold 1971 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Elsom I (private collection) – Hallmarked 1970, sold 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Sarah Jane (made for his daughter, now in a private collection) – Hallmarked 1970 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Engel (private collection) – Hallmarked 1973, sold 1973 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Saunders (private collection) – Hallmarked 1973, sold 1973 Retrograde hours, minutes, seconds. Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Elsom II (private collection) – Hallmarked 1975, sold 1975 Central hours and minutes, seconds, power reserve and equation of time displays, Daniels’ spring detent chronometer escapement, 1-minute tourbillon, 15 seconds remontoire, recessed balance, annual calendar disc. Key-wound The Atwood (private collection) – Hallmarked 1975, sold 1976 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, power reserve display, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound.
The Clutton II (British Museum) – Hallmarked 1976, sold 1977 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Elsom III (private collection) – Hallmarked 1976, sold 1977 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, thermometer and power reserve displays, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Hornby II (private collection) – Hallmarked 1977, sold 1977 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, thermometer and power reserve displays, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Beyer (Beyer Museum, Zurich) – Hallmarked 1977, sold 1978 Eccentric hours and minutes on lower section of dial, sub seconds at 12 o’clock, thermometer and power reserve displays, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, recessed balance, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Space Traveller I (private collection) – sold 1982 Mean-solar and sidereal time, 2 x seconds, annual calendar, age and phase of the moon phase, equation of time display, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, seconds zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Space Traveller II (Retained by the maker, now private collection) – 1983 Mean-solar and sidereal time, 2 x seconds, annual calendar, age and phase of the moon phase, equation of time sector, center seconds chronograph for either mean-solar or sidereal time, Daniels Independent double wheel escapement, zero reset mechanism. Key-wound The Martin (private collection) – Hallmarked 1979, sold 1983 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels coaxial, 1-minute tourbillon. Key-wound The Signature (private collection) – Hallmarked 1984 Hours, minutes, seconds, Daniels co-axial escapement, 1-minute edge-driven tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding
GEORGE DANIELS The George Daniels Grand Complication
The Beyer II (Beyer Museum, Zurich) – Hallmarked 1986, sold 1986 Hours, minutes, seconds, Daniels co-axial escapement, 1-minute edge-driven tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding The Nall-Cain (private collection- on loan to the Clockmakers’ Company Museum, London, courtesy of the George Daniels Educational Trust ) – Hallmarked 1983, sold 1986 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve and thermometer displays, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, independent deadbeat seconds mechanism. Daniels keyless winding The Bobinet (a royal collection) – Hallmarked 1983, sold 1986 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, independent dead- beat seconds mechanism. Daniels keyless winding The Grand Complication (the present watch) – Retained by the maker, 1987 Hours, minutes, seconds, instantaneous retrograde perpetual calendar, moon phase, thermometer, power reserve and equation of time displays, annual calendar, minute repeater, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, 1-minute tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding The Four-Minute Tourbillon (Retained by the maker, now private collection) – hallmarked 1994 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels compact chronograph with minute recording, Daniels co-axial escapement, four-minute tourbillon. Daniels keyless winding The Unfnished Movement (on loan to the Clockmakers’ Company Museum, London, courtesy of the George Daniels Educational Trust) – 2011 1-minute tourbillon, Daniels Co-axial escapement, 15-second remontoire. Daniels keyless winding
WRISTWATCHES Wristwatch I – The Four-Minute Tourbillon (Retained by the maker, now private collection) – 1991 Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve display, Daniels compact chronograph with minute recording, Daniels slim co-axial escapement, four-minute tourbillon. Wristwatch II – The Spring Case (private collection) – 1992 Hinged double-dialed sprung case, hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve on one dial; and day, date and visible tourbillon on the reverse dial. Daniels slim co-axial escapement, 1-minute tourbillon.
35.
A historically signifcant and unique pink gold automatic two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve, diamond-set mother-of-pearl dial, bracelet and Westminster Chimes
Manufacturer
Gérald Genta
Year
1994
Reference No.
G.0027.7
Movement No.
1
Case No.
71’378 and No 1
Model Name
“Grande and Petite Sonnerie”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 31000, 57 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Gerald Genta bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Gerald Genta concealed
Dimensions
39 mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $60,300-121,000 €53,400-107,000
Gérald Genta is one of the most infuential fgures in horological history. Having lef an inedible mark in watchmaking, he is best known for creating iconic models such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur. His designs are fagship models of each manufacture and some even argue that his creations have themselves become a brand in itself. In 1994, Genta embarked on a journey to create his most complicated wristwatches to date. A historically signifcant model in the world of horology, this timepiece was one of the most complicated wristwatches in the world when launched. Perfectly encapsulating Gérald Genta’s design aesthetic, the present watch not only features a Petite and Grande Sonnerie with Westminster Chimes, but also has a tourbillon mechanism. Reference G.0027.7 was made in 1994 in three examples only: the present watch cased in pink gold with a pink gold bracelet, a second example cased in white gold and with leather strap and a third cased in platinum. The caliber 31000 is one of the most impressive conceptions of modern horology. To combine the diferent complications within the confnes of a 39 millimeter case is no easy feat. Over 1000 components of the movement are decorated with painstaking care and inspired by nature. Furthermore, the parts are all hand-mounted. The automatic movement is particularly noteworthy, making this model part of the exceedingly small series of automatic “grande and petite sonnerie” watches ever made.
GÉRALD GENTA “Grande and Petite Sonnerie”
36.
JAEGER LECOULTRE – A fne and attractive set of two stainless steel, automatic, dual time wristwatches with power reserve, date, local day/night indication, one with a black dial, guarantee and box and the other with a silver dial
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
Circa 1998
Reference No.
a) 142.8.92.S b) 142.8.92
Movement No.
a) 3’026’849 b) 2’790’951
Case No.
a) 2425 b) 1365
Model Name
a) Master Control Geographic
Material
a) Stainless steel
b) Master Control Geographic b) Stainless steel Calibre
a) Automatic, cal. 929-3, 38 jewels b) Automatic, cal. 929-3, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Clasp/Buckle
a) Leather b) Leather a) Stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre deployant clasp b) Stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre deployant clasp
Dimensions Signed
a) 38mm Diameter b) 38mm Diameter a) Case, dial, movement and clasp signed b) Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 3,500-5,500 ∙ $3,500-5,500 €3,100-4,900 Accessories a) Accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre presentation box with outer packaging, guarantee dated June 8, 2001.
A
The Master Control collection is the expression of a watchmaking tradition that has been meticulously refned by Jaeger LeCoultre. Featuring a wide range of functions, the Master Control models bring together a classic appearance and technical features. It is the brand’s frst line that has benefted from the “1,000 hour test” which inspired its name. Launched in 1998, the Master Control Geographic is distinguished by its dynamic design and contemporary elegance. Thanks to a second dial at 6 o’clock, this model indicates at a glance the exact time in another of the world’s cities. A day and night indicator has been added to avoid any confusion and the model is further equipped with a calendar and a reverse power reserve. Composed of two watches, this lot presents the black and the silver version of the reference. Both are in excellent condition and the black version even appears unworn and complete with box, guarantee and product literature. A classic of traditional watchmaking, this set is a great opportunity for lovers of far-fung destinations to complete their collection with two modern world time watches. B
LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
37.
CITIZEN CAMPANOLA AND VULCAIN – A very attractive set composed of a stainless steel quartz Grand Complication wristwatch and a stainless steel dual time wristwatch with alarm
Manufacturer
Citizen Campanola and Vulcain
Year
Circa 2008 and circa 2000
Reference No.
a) AH4000-01 b) 100108.027
Case No.
a) 6771-T006248 N°723 b) 79
Model Name
a) Campanola Grande Complication
Material
a) Stainless steel b) Stainless steel
b) Aviator GMT Cricket Calibre
a) Quartz, cal. 677* b) Manual, cal. V10, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
a) Leather b) Stainless steel Vulcain bracelet, max length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
a) Stainless steel Campanola deployant clasp b) Stainless steel Vulcain deployant clasp
Dimensions Signed
a) 46.5mm Diameter b) 43mm Diameter a) Case, dial and clasp signed b) Case, dial and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 2,000-2,500 ∙ $2,000-2,500 €1,800-2,200 Accessories a) Accompanied by Campanola presentation box with outer packaging, instruction manual, Guarantee certifcate dated February 15, 2010 b) Accompanied by Vulcain presentation box, instruction manual, Guarantee dated May 29, 2003.
A
The Citizen Campanola Grand Complication houses the most popular complications that one can dream of, but in a quartz movement instead of a mechanical movement. This “made in Japan” wristwatch ofers the wearer a chronograph, moonphase indicator, perpetual calendar and minute repeater. The quartz movement that Citizen created for this watch is completely hand assembled and ofers the reliability and smooth operation that a quartz movement can deliver. The bold and massive look of the case of this unusual wristwatch is further enhanced by its tridimensional dial with dark burgundy center beautifully contrasting with the silver rings and numerals.
B
In 1947, the “Fabrique de Montres Vulcain” launched the frst genuinely operational alarm wristwatch. Up to this time, no other watchmaker had ever succeeded in developing a standard-size movement capable of producing a sound powerful enough to awaken its owner. The strident sound emitted by the watch led the watchmaker to name it “Cricket”. Over 50 years later, Vulcain presented a new model featuring the historical complication coupled with a dual time zone aimed at aviators or travelers wishing to keep time in two diferent time zones and beneft from an alarm to remind them of their important meetings. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
38.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A very attractive stainless steel and yellow gold wristwatch with date, sweep center seconds and bracelet, retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1983
Reference No.
3800/1
Movement No.
1’423’328
Case No.
2’803’996
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 335 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel and yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5 mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1983 and its subsequent sale on May 3, 1984.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800 is the versatile watch par excellence. Sporty yet chic owning to its smaller 37.5 mm compared to the 42mm diameter of the original reference 3700.
Released in 1981, reference 3800 remained in production until 2006, during which the movement presented several evolutions. Early models feature caliber 335 SC without the quick set date feature through the crown. Such development was introduced in 1987, while keeping caliber 335SC. In 1992 a third generation was introduced featuring cal. 330 134, and fnally cal. 330 194 was employed for the pieces made from 1997 to 2006, year of discontinuation. The present glamorous steel and gold version features an incredibly attractive dial that has turned petrol blue with time highlighted by the milk chocolate color of the indexes and hands. The dial is furthermore graced with the presence of the rare Gübelin signature on the dial indicating that it was originally retailed by Gübelin, a prestigious Swiss-based, familyowned, jewellery and watch retailer founded in 1854. Research shows that this is the second reference 3800/1 in steel and gold to appear on the market bearing the Gübelin signature making the present watch an exceedingly rare example. The elegant two tone case, the incredible color of the dial along with the rare Gübelin signature renders the present Nautilus an opportunity not to be missed by shrewd collectors.
39.
ROLEX – An exceedingly well-preserved and attractive stainless steel and yellow gold dual time wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1980
Reference No.
16753
Movement No.
0’449’803
Case No.
6’290’267
Model Name
GMT-Master “Root Beer”
Material
18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3075, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 ∙ $4,000-6,000 €3,600-5,300
Reference 16753 is a rare variant within the GMT family as it is cased in both stainless steel and yellow gold. Collectors dub this model the ‘Root Beer’ due to its beautiful brown dial and caramel and chocolate bezel. This particular bezel remains vibrant, displaying a sharp gold and light brown color, giving the watch a very charismatic appearance. This timepiece is preserved in particularly stunning condition, with sharp satin fnishes on the top of the lugs and crisp edges. The proportions are robust, and the bevels are wide and visible. Even the case back retains a strong satin fnish. The dials of reference 16753 are known for faking, yet this dial remains intact throughout and exhibits a glossy brown shade, which is particularly noteworthy and incredible. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
40.
A very fne and extremely rare perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year, 24-hour indication and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1993
Reference No.
3970/2
Movement No.
876’509
Case No.
2’887’010
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27-70Q, 24 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Patek Philippe integrated bracelet
stamped with the Geneva seal Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-140,000 O $80,400-141,000 €71,200-125,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1993 with platinum bracelet and its subsequent sale on July 23, 1993.
Reference 3970 is the third installment in the perpetual calendar chronograph line of Patek Philippe timepieces. Among the most typical complications from the brand, this family of watches is the only one which has been constantly in production since 1941 and features some of the most collectible models by the brand: reference 1518, 2499, the present 3970, 5970 and the current 5270. Reference 3970 was introduced in the late 1980s with a snap on back and soon upgraded to screw back for improved waterproofness. It was made in the 3 gold colors and - in more limited quantities - in platinum. It was usually supplied with a leather strap, although some rare examples such as this one feature an integrated bracelet. In fact, the present watch is only the second example in this confguration to appear at auction.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970/2 Platinum “One of Two Known with Integrated Bracelet”
41.
GRAND SEIKO – A very rare and attractive limited edition platinum wristwatch with 72-hour power reserve, made for the 130th anniversary of Grand Seiko
Manufacturer
Grand Seiko
Year
2011
Reference No.
SBGW039
Movement No.
302’807
Case No.
122/130
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9S64A, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Grand Seiko buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-8,000 $6,000-8,000 €5,300-7,100
Sleek, hefy and subtly impressive, reference SBGW039 was made in celebration of the 130th anniversary of Grand Seiko. The present watch is one of 130 pieces cased in platinum and is instantly recognizable due to its non-blued silvered seconds hands. In addition to the platinum version, Grand Seiko also released 1300 pieces in steel and 130 pieces in yellow gold in 2011 to celebrate the occasion. The trio was a remake of the very frst Grand Seiko model - reference 3180. Sharing similar case proportions and a dial design, reference SBGW039 references its past, while featuring a modern caliber 9S64 with a three day power reserve. Furthermore, the crystal changed from plexi, to sapphire crystal. The case, movement, dial and hands are all executed and fnished to the highest degree and quality - a defning characteristic of Grand Seiko.
42.
AUDEMARS PIGUET – An unusual and elegant platinum wristwatch with rotating satellites display complication
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1997
Reference No.
25720PT
Movement No.
368’539
Case No.
D8239
Model Name
Star Wheel
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2124, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-9,000 $7,000-9,000 €6,200-8,000
Even though Audemars Piguet’s motto “To break the rules you must frst master them” was introduced in 2012, it never was better embodied than with this model. Introduced in 1989, the Star Wheel collection features an unusual time indication via the star wheel complication - three sapphire disks with printed hours rotate on a center wheel, the hour pointing the minutes on a 120-degree sector. The automatic Audemars Piguet Star Wheel was available in yellow gold, stainless steel or platinum. The present platinum version displays a fantastic pink copper color guilloché lower dial that perfectly underlines the white portion made to graduate the minutes. The almost invisible sapphire disks rotate around the dial to present the correct time. With its unique complication, the Star Wheel draws attention with its elegant simplicity.
43.
A fne and attractive white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, 24-hour indication, additional sapphire caseback, winding box and original certifcate
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2004
Reference No.
5039G-001
Movement No.
3’125’552
Case No.
4’138’479
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240Q, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,100-50,300 €22,200-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin, Patek Philippe winding box, presentation box, additional sapphire caseback, adjusting tool, leather wallet and product literature.
Patek Philippe reference 5039 was launched in 1996. This complication features a perpetual calendar with leap year indication, a 24-hour indication and a moonphase. Cased either in yellow, white or pink gold, the bezel is further decorated with hobnail fnish, also called “Clous de Paris” in French. This decoration further enhances the architectural efect of the case. Interestingly, even though the 35.5mm case diameter may seem small, the watch ofers a great presence on the wrist and remains very contemporary. This elegant “black tie” type of watch is part of one of the most exclusive timepieces from Patek Philippe as it is a perpetual calendar. In 1941, Patek Philippe launched the frst serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch. Since then, the references have evolved, adapting their design to the trend and accommodating new features such as leap year or 24-hour indication. The present white gold perpetual calendar is a true connoisseur timepiece. It is ofered today in excellent condition and comes complete with its extremely stylish burgundy winding box, an additional sapphire caseback, the original Certifcate of Origin, product literature and even an additional ftted presentation box.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5039 “Clous de Paris”
44.
ROLEX – An attractive stainless steel wristwatch with green enamel dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1956
Reference No.
6444
Movement No.
N48’855
Case No.
152’717
Model Name
Oyster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 62, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
31.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700
This wristwatch most notably features a green hard enamel dial, the quality of which is outstanding. The color appears bright yet translucent and has an even, rich and saturated tone. Every detail is taken into account. The enameller has painted a perfect and small circular ring around the center post where the dial plate meets the enamel, attesting to the meticulous work of Stern Frères. Founded in 1868 by brothers Charles and Jean Stern, Stern Frères is best known for creating beautiful and intricate dials for watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and Omega. The back of this dial is stamped by the esteemed dial maker. The frst three numbers, 103, denote the watchmaker’s reference. In this instance, it would be Rolex. The star represents the maker, Stern Frères, and the following numbers are the job reference.
45.
TUDOR – A rare and attractive diver’s wristwatch with blue bezel and dial made for the French Navy
Manufacturer
Tudor
Year
Circa 1977
Reference No.
9401/0, caseback further engraved M.N. 76
Case No.
866’142
Model Name
Marine Nationale “Snowfake”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2776, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Nato
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by a copy of the French Military Ledger mentioning this watch.
Tudor reference 9401/0 and its sister reference 9411/0 featuring a date, were launched simultaneously in 1975 replacing the references 7016/0 and 7021/0. The now well established snowfake hands complement the dial that was available either in blue or black, like the bezel. This diver’s watch, waterproof to 200m, like its predecessor, was soon to be noticed by armies around the world and it was no surprise that the French Navy used the new reference to equip their troops.
In production for almost 10 years, the MN version of the reference 9401/0 is amongst the most sought afer Tudor watches. Finding one in good condition that can prove its military provenance is a real treat and doesn’t appear very ofen. The present example, from the most attractive “Blue Snowfake” version is further accompanied by a copy of the military ledger that mentions the case number of the watch, 866’142, along with the name of the submarine on which it was used. The Doris, was a Daphné-class French submarine that cruised the seas between 1964 and 1994. The origin and excellent condition of this military watch along with its confrmed provenance makes it a great watch to be added to any collection and its robustness and accuracy makes it the perfect companion to enjoy on a daily basis.
46.
ROLEX – A fne and very rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, 24-hour indication, date, engraved caseback, bracelet, guarantee and box. Part of a 139 pieces limited and numbered edition made for the Special Reconnaissance Regiment of the British Armed Forces
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
16570 T
Movement No.
31’577’753
Case No.
Z360167
Model Name
“SRR” Explorer II
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Automatic, Cal.3185, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “OP 78790 A” to the end links, max length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
“OP12” and “78790A”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card signed by Rolex London, dated October 2007 and in the name of “Special Reconnaissance Regiment”, Rolex and SRR limited edition certifcate, sale tags (one numbered), ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
The present wristwatch is an example from the legendary Explorer II SSR limited edition. The British Special Reconnaissance Regiment was instituted by the United Kingdom in 2005 to provide the Queen and other sensitive
targets with increased protection, especially against acts of terrorism. Possibly to mark the creation of the Regiment, two Rolex models - a Submariner 116610, and the present Explorer II - were made in limited editions with engraved back for the SRR. These two models might be the only instances of Rolex military timepieces being part of a numbered limited edition. In fact, the watch bears a caseback with the bas-relief of the crest of a regiment in the center and an additional light engraving close to the rim reading SSR and the limited edition number. Other military timepieces are known to have been made in exceedingly small series, such as the “Polipetto” Sea-Dweller for the Italian State Police, known to have been made in 78 examples - see lot 15- but not one of them feature watches with numbered cases. Furthermore, a limited edition Certifcate issued jointly by the SRR and Rolex certify the limited edition and the number of the piece. Such an amount of details regarding the limited edition is indeed extremely unusual for a military timepiece and leaves little doubt that the one who commissioned the series was a serious watch enthusiast. The icing on the cake for the collector of military timepieces is the condition the watch comes in: absolutely as new and still bearing the factory stickers. Needless to say, this is an occurrence which may take a very long time to happen again at public auction: collectors are warned.
47.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1976
Reference No.
1665
Movement No.
D154’628
Case No.
4’223’569
Model Name
Sea-Dweller
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 203mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex twinlock folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 O $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee March 10, 1977, product literature and ftted presentation box.
Originally conceived for dive expeditions, the Sea-dweller is the ultimate tool watch. It was ofcially introduced for “civilian” use in 1967. While the earliest prototype examples featured only a single line of text, “Sea-Dweller”, in red, Rolex later printed both the depth rating and Sea-Dweller signature in a bold, scarlet hue, which we see on the present watch. The Sea-Dweller’s biggest technical innovation was the helium escape valve. During the 1960s, most watches did not have the capacity to submerge into great depths without breaking. The Helium Escape Valve allowed helium gas, which built up underwater, to be released during decompression. This example is ftted with a Mk4 dial, evidenced by the large and spiky coronet. Correct for a 4.223 million serial number, it is the most classic dial iteration found on the market. The dial has aged gracefully, exhibiting warm and all-matching patina on the hands and numerals. The case is ofered in crisp condition, still showing bevels on the side of the lugs. This lot is accompanied by its original punched guarantee, as well as the ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
48.
A rare and extremely well-preserved stainless steel dual time wristwatch with date, center seconds, Beyer number beneath the lug, bracelet, chronometer certifcate, guarantee and presentation box, retailed by Beyer Chronometrie
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
1675 inside case back stamped IV.60
Movement No.
D44’585
Case No.
624’185
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 80, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.63
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, bottom of the lug stamped with Beyer number
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex chronometer certifcate, guarantee stamped Beyer and with Beyer internal number and ftted presentation box.
Rolex produced a limited number of dials in the early 1960s featuring an “exclamation” mark, which we see on this watch. Scholars hypothesize that this designates a transitional period where Rolex lowered the radium amount on the dial. Since “exclamation” mark dials were produced for such a short time, examples like this are very rare. The numerals on this wristwatch have aged with warm patina, which consistently match the hands. The lacquer dial is intact, and all the gilt lettering has been preserved in excellent condition. This timepiece is ftted with a small tipped luminous hand, along with ‘Cornino’ pointed crown guards, which is correct for early examples. The present watch is particularly noteworthy as the bottom of the lug is stamped with a Beyer number that is furthermore repeated on the guarantee, reinforcing scholarship that the storied retailer had stamped their watches with an internal code. The red section of the bezel has faded to a dark orange tone, while the blue sector displays a vibrant blue color. The present watch is a truly fantastic example, complemented by the addition of its chronometer certifcate, guarantee and ftted presentation box. Furthermore, the case is presented in excellent condition with crisp edges and sharp fnishes.
ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “Exclamation Mark for Beyer”
49.
A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “telephone” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1979
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
5’528’960
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “ Telephone Big Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000
Reference 6265 was introduced to the market in approximately 1969, and ceased production in the late 1980s. Compared to frst generation examples of the Cosmograph Daytona, the model featured screw down pushers, and thus carried the 'Oyster' designation on the dial. The movement was also upgraded from a Valjoux 722 movement, to the more reliable Valjoux 727 movement. This extremely singular reference 6265 features a “Telephone” dial. In addition to having steel baton indexes and a “Big Red” designation, this watch also displays Arabic numerals printed directly onto the dial with black paint in the style of an old rotary telephone. It is our belief that for legibility purposes the owner of the watch had these numerals added at a later date giving the watch a rather unconventional yet interesting appearance. Having resided within the same family for many years, the reasons behind the creation of current dial can only be guessed.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “Telephone Dial”
50.
A fne, rare and extremely attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman “John Player Special� dial
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “John Player Special”
50.
A fne, rare and extremely attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman “John Player Special” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
2’084’363
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman
Material
14K yellow gold
“John Player Special” Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K gold Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 350,000-700,000 $352,000-704,000 €311,000-623,000
One of the most intriguing aspects of collecting vintage Rolex Daytona timepieces is the remarkable amount of aesthetic variety the line has to ofer: one can fnd “standard” models and bejeweled models. Among the standard models, one can fnd the simple two color scheme dial in diferent variations (black, white, double Swiss, underline, small Daytona, Big Red, tropical registers….) and the Paul Newman dial also varies according to model, metal and year of production (three color, two color, Panda, champagne, Sotto….). While beauty is inherently subjective, few - if any - collectors will disagree with the statement that among such a variety of options, one of the most visually striking iterations of the
Daytona is the one exemplifed by the present timepiece: the John Player Special Paul Newman 6241. The alternation of black and gold details of the dial is perfectly reprised on the case with its gold sheen and pitch black bezel. Such a chromatic scheme - black with gold trimmings - is also found on Lotus race cars from the 1970s due to the sponsorship of the cigarette brand “John Player Special”, which was defned by those colors (actually the “JPS” color scheme being introduced in 1972). This is the origin of the JPS nickname. The present specimen represents by far the rarest iteration of the already spectacularly scarce JPS, as it is cased in 14K gold rather than the more usual 18K, most probably in an efort to abate taxation costs when importing the watches into some countries. Furthermore, it is ofered in superior condition: the dial is as fresh as when it was originally made, still retaining all the luminous accents which aged to a champagne hue, in a remarkable strike of luck perfectly harmonizing with the outer track they sit upon. The “sing-a-song” Swiss designation is also absolutely fawless, showcasing sharp serifs. Representing one of the most visually arresting iterations in the entire Daytona (and possibly in the entire Rolex) production and ofered in exceptional condition, this rare trophy will grant enormous satisfaction to its new lucky owner and - considering the depletion of the unknown Daytona reservoir over the recent years - it is highly unlikely that another 14K JPS in similar condition will ever again be discovered on the market. A truly perfect occasion for the collector of highly important wristwatches.
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “John Player Special”
51.
A rare and attractive yellow gold dual time wristwatch “exclamation mark” dial, with date, center seconds, Bakelite bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
6542
Movement No.
DDN’884’913
Case No.
424’304
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1066, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.59
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-140,000 O $80,400-141,000 €71,200-125,000
Cased in yellow gold, this reference 6542 is an extremely compelling example. It most notably displays a dark burgundy dial with an additional luminous dot at 6 o’clock known as an “exclamation” mark. Scholars hypothesize that this signifes a lower radium reading. Closer examination of this timepiece reveals a bezel that does not have any signs of radium. One can thus come to the conclusion that the watch went back to the Rolex workshops in the early 1960s, where the bezel and dial were upgraded to comply with the then health standards. The case is preserved in spectacular condition, with sharp fnishes on the top of the lugs. The bevels are present, and there is barely any surface wear throughout the watch. The end links are stamped 80, which is correct for this timepiece. The clasp is stamped for the third quarter of 1959, which corresponds with the year of manufacture. This timepiece has most notably appeared on the market twice, both times soaring past its low estimate with a fnal price of 159,000CHF in 2010, and 197,000CHF in 2013 - both very high prices for the era, attesting to the market’s support and recognition of this watch’s quality.
ROLEX Ref. 6542 GMT-Master “Exclamation Mark”
Life before the Daytona
Because of the historical importance of the Cosmograph Daytona, and because Rolex has stuck with this chronograph and variations of it since it was introduced in 1963, the reference 6239 is ofen referred to as a revolutionary product.
The Calatrava-style case, with concave lugs of the earlier models, which later become convex, and even later gain in thickness with the launch of the reference 3525, the frst Oyster chronograph.
But the Daytona is, and this is true of most watches, the result of a long sequence of adjustments and refnements that stretch back several decades. If there is only one “Pre-Daytona”, the beloved reference 6238, there are many, many more chronographs to which we owe the design of the reference 6239.
The size of these watches follows the same progression, from 33mm to 38mm, as they become more robust, adopt a screwdown caseback construction instead of a simple snap-on back, and house larger calibres.
In the following pages, we will be presenting a rich and varied selection of early Rolex chronographs, many of them much more difcult to locate than the better known Cosmographs as collectors very rarely let go of these pieces. Together, these early chronographs ofer an enlightening retrospective highlighting Rolex’s long and storied relationship with the complication. It’s a far cry from the automatic, stainless steel Daytonas of the modern era, but this section will show, linking these watches are discernible and fascinating changes in the production methods and design philosophy at Rolex, throughout the 20th century.
Single-button chronographs are replaced by more technical chronographs, with two-registers, and then three, while the design of the pushers also sees an evolution, with the appearance of a second pusher early in the production of these watches, and a constant revision of their shape, from square to round push pieces. The Rolex chronograph is in constant evolution during the 1940s, each reference bringing its owns minor novelty to the line. Reference and serial numbers start appearing between the lugs at this time, when up until the reference 4048, they had appeared on casebacks. Even the Oyster shape becomes more refned with time, and the appearance of the two-register reference 4500, followed very closely by Rolex’s frst triple register Oyster, the reference 4357.
The 1950s are when Rolex fnds the defnitive style language for its chronographs, with the launch of references 5034, 6034, 6234 and fnally, the iconic 6238 “Pre-Daytona”, the very last chronograph before the introduction of the Cosmograph Daytona. But clearly there are no massive leaps in design. Instead, we see incremental change as Rolex refned its watches to appeal to a changing market and the emergence of a wealthier, more active middle class looking for robust casual sports watches. In fact, many of these transitional models were made in stainless steel, as chronographs became more widely used by professionals and sports enthusiasts. This makes the few existing models made in yellow and pink gold extremely rare and desirable. We believe the conscious and coherent design progression of these watches is, in itself, more impressive than one revolutionary introduction, and very clearly shows that it’s no accident if Rolex is known as one of the greatest chronograph makers. All of the chronographs included in this section are special in their own right, and for this reason they may appeal to very diferent collectors. Some of the earliest models show Rolex at
its most traditional, when the more traditional manufactures were the company’s closest rivals, while others present Rolex as a forward-thinking company, who recognized the appeal of professional tool watches before others. And then there are watches who appeal, not just in their design, but also their historical importance. The reference 3525 for example, is a watch that has great signifcance because of Rolex’s decision, during WWII, to give British ofcers captured by the German army the opportunity to purchase a reference 3525, asking for payment only upon their return from the war. Because of this, the beloved reference, also known as the “Prisoner of War”, has a very special place in the heart of chronograph collectors and history bufs alike. To fnd out which era of Rolex’s chronographs appeals most to you, we suggest you sit back, delve into the topic , and fip through the forthcoming pages.
52.
A very rare and fne yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne dial and triple stepped lugs retailed by Ronchi, Milano
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1938
Reference No.
3835
Case No.
57’498
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather, further accompanied by a 18K
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
yellow gold bracelet
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Literature A similar watch is illustrated in I Cronograf Rolex – La Leggenda, by Pucci Papaleo Editore p. 37.
Since its launch in the late 1930s, only a very small numbers of reference 3835 have been produced. Mainly cased in pink gold, the watch was also available in yellow gold with champagne dial like the present example. Reminiscent of the design of the Chrysler building the triple stepped lugs exult a strong Art Deco inspiration and give the watch a sculptural and arresting style. This bold geometric design made the watch extremely sensitive to polish and luckily, the present example had never sufered from this as the case and specially the lugs are crisp and untouched. In fact, one can say that this watch has been cherished but not worn very ofen. The beautiful champagne dial is in excellent condition and proudly features the retailer’s name, Ronchi Milano, just beneath the Rolex signature. In business since 1939, the shop, based in Milan, is still an Ofcial Rolex Retailer to this day. Preserved in excellent and original condition, this watch is a beautiful example of a stylish non-oyster antimagnetic chronograph. The watch stands out by its charismatic untouched champagne dial, beautifully complemented by the retailer’s signature. It is probably one of the most desirable examples a collector could dream of.
ROLEX Ref. 3835 “Ronchi Milano”
53.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1937
Reference No.
2508
Case No.
034’609
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 14’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel folding deployant clasp 2.51
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 O $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700
First launched in the mid 1930s, reference 2508 was Rolex’s very frst wristwatch to feature two chronograph registers, as well as two buttons to operate the mechanism. The reference can generally be divided into two series. While those from the frst generation feature ‘olive’ pushers and a larger case size, second generation examples feature fat pushers and a relatively smaller case diameter. At the time of production, the relatively large case size was incredibly unusual for the period. Unsurprisingly, the model exudes a modern appearance today. Fitted with elegant “olive” pushers, this frst generation example is preserved in excellent condition with crisp reference and case numbers on the caseback. The case is preserved in particularly excellent condition with sharp fnishes and robust proportions. It is furthermore ftted with a 1950s Rolex bricklink bracelet.
ROLEX Ref. 2508 “Olive Pushers”
54.
An attractive and spectacularly well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black lacquer dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1962
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
866’241
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7205, end links stamped 71, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.66
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 140,000-260,000 $141,000-261,000 €125,000-231,000
Produced for a short period from the beginning of the 1960s to 1967, reference 6238 was the last Rolex chronograph to feature a smooth bezel with a graduated tachymeter scale on the dial. It paved the way and set the design codes for the frst Cosmograph, reference 6239, with its tonneau-shaped case and Oyster screw down caseback. This absolutely spectacular wristwatch is an exceedingly rare variant of reference 6238 as it is ftted with a black lacquer dial. An incredibly early example, this watch bears an 866’xxx serial number and is most likely among the frst batch of reference 6238s ever produced. Glossy and mirror-like, the quality of this dial is second to none. It displays luminous dots that are intact and have aged with warm patina. Furthermore, there are no signs of hand drag marks or tarnishing, which further underlines the quality of this timepiece. Only a few handful of watches ftted with such dials have appeared on the market so far, which makes this example incredibly desirable. It notably displays “-T Swiss T-” at 6 o’clock, which is correct for a stainless steel reference 6238s with a black dial. The case is preserved in excellent condition, with crisp fnishes to the top of the lugs and overall thick proportions. Even the end links are stamped “71”, which is particularly desirable and collectible today.
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona with Black Glossy Dial”
55.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black lacquer dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1942
Reference No.
3525
Case No.
181’227
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph “Barilotto”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 23, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.69
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 O $25,100-50,300 €22,200-44,500
Reference 3525 was launched in 1939. An important breakthrough model for the frm, the reference featured one of Rolex’s most important technological advancements. It was Rolex’s very frst chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case, and equipped with a water resistant screw down caseback along with screw down crown. Displaying a crisp and sharp case, this reference 3525 is ftted with a black lacquer dial and luminous hands and numerals. The model is afectionately called “Barilotto” as the case is similar to that of a barrel. Legible and deep, the case number and reference number are particularly sharp on the outside caseback and would have disappeared with continuous polishing over the years. It is interesting to note that there are three stars stamped just above the case number which can also be found on other reference 3525s, the meaning of which is still unclear. This watch most interestingly displays very similar design specifcations to the reference 3525 “Prisoner of War” watches that Rolex supplied to detained British army ofcers in WWII German war camps. These watches were ofen ftted with a black dial, gold graphics and luminous hands.
ROLEX Ref. 3525 Oyster Chronograph “Barilotto”
56.
A very fne, rare and incredibly well-preserved stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch
The “Jean-Claude Killy” is one of Rolex’s most signifcant models ever produced. It is named afer the three-time French Olympic ski champion who was ofen seen wearing a reference 6236 similar to this timepiece. Its roots date back to 1947, when Rolex launched reference 4767 - Rolex’s very frst triple calendar chronograph wristwatch ftted inside a water-resistant Oyster case. Between 1947 and 1962, a total of four diferent Oyster Dato-Compax models were produced: references 4767, 5036, 6036 and 6236. Produced in yellow and pink gold as well as stainless steel, the production run was very small for each variation. Over the years, Rolex modifed both the dial and case design, with the fnal watch in this series, the reference 6236, featuring a more modern, clean dial style, as well as a three-piece case with larger bezel.
Literature The present watch is illustrated in Collezionare Orologi da Polso Rolex Collecting Wristwatches by Osvaldo Patrizzi, Guido Mondani Editore, pp. 478 and 479.
ROLEX Ref. 6236 “The Guido Mondani Killy”
56.
A very fne, rare and incredibly well-preserved stainless steel triple calendar chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
6236
Case No.
576’397
Model Name
“The Guido Mondani Killy”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $251,000-503,000 €222,000-445,000 Provenance Antiquorum, Geneva April 1, 2006, The Mondani Collection of Rolex Wristwatches, lot 75.
The present example is one of the most impressive reference 6236s to come on the market. Featuring a robust case that is crisp and sharp, the watch has been barely touched throughout its lifespan. Furthermore, the dial is preserved in excellent condition with barely any blemishes or marks, which is quite astounding when one considers the age of the timepiece. Its provenance is particularly impressive, having been previously sold at the The Mondani Collection of Rolex Wristwatches, lot 75 on April 1, 2006. It is further immortalised in literature, as the watch is prominently illustrated in Collezionare Orologi da Polso Rolex Collecting Wristwatches by Osvaldo Patrizzi, pages 478 and 479. Interestingly, the present timepiece is only 5 digits away in serial number to record breaking reference 6236 previously in the Gordon Bethune collection, which sold at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: EIGHT for 702,500 CHF.
ROLEX Ref. 6236 “The Guido Mondani Killy”
57.
A very fne and superbly well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with multi-scale luminous dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1959
Reference No.
6234
Case No.
425’899
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph Anti-Magnetic
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, 71 end links, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.59
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 35,000-55,000 $35,200-55,300 €31,100-48,900
The present watch demonstrates how a watch can remain extremely original, even sixty years afer it has lef the Rolex factory. This particular case is presented in extremely remarkable condition. It features full proportions and sharp fnishes on the top of the lugs. The numbers between the lugs are particularly noteworthy. Deep and precise, the serial and reference numbers are engraved directly onto the factory-satin fnish, demonstrating how they have never seen intervention in the past. The bezel is particularly crisp, with a sharp edge. The “Swiss” signed dial is equally extraordinary, with no major signs of tarnishing, which is impressive given the age of the watch.
ROLEX Ref. 6234 Oyster Chronograph Anti-Magnetic
58.
A highly rare and interesting stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and original guarantee, given to L. Harvey Poe, Jr. from actress Libby Holman
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1945
Reference No.
3525
Case No.
386’526
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph “Barilotto”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Gay Frères bracelet, max length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Gay Frères deployant
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed,
clasp stamped 4.49
bracelet further signed “GF” Estimate CHF 60,000-90,000 $60,300-90,500 €53,400-80,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex numbered guarantee dated 1951, a copy of Dreams That Money Can Buy by John Bradshaw, a notarized letter by L. Harvey Poe, Jr. stating that the present watch is inscribed “Harvey love Libby Jan. 1951” and that it was given to him by Libby Holman when they were vacationing in Switzerland, and Wikipedia article regarding Libby Holman.
Preserved in excellent overall condition and ofered with its original guarantee, this reference 3525 presents an extremely compelling and interesting story. Most notably, the caseback is signed “Harvey Love Libby Jan 1951”. The watch was gifed from the actress Libby Holman, to L. Harvey Poe, Jr. in 1951. A notarized letter from L. Harvey Poe, Jr. states “this was given to me as a gif for my 35th birthday by Libby Holman, the American singer and actress, while I was studying at Oxford
and she was living in France...she purchased it while we were vacationing in Switzerland.” An actress, model and singer, Libby Holman achieved notoriety for her daring and provocative life, which is presented in the biography Dreams that Money Can Buy by Jon Bradshaw. Chapter 49 of the book is particularly interesting, as it recounts Holman’s sojourn in France and directly corresponds with Poe’s letter. In 1951, Holman embarked on an afair with an Oxford student and stayed “at the home of one of [his] friends, another Rhodes scholar”. Indeed, research reveals that L. Harvey Poe, Jr. was a Rhodes scholar at Oxford. It is most likely that Holman bought this timepiece for the aforementioned gentleman who hosted her in Oxford. The watch itself is a very interesting specimen. Produced late into reference 3525’s production period, it displays “Rolex Oyster Chronographe” in three lines of straight text rather than “Rolex Oyster” in curved text. One can surmise that given the 6 years between the date of manufacture and its sale date, the present watch case was kept as stock for a number of years afer the reference ceased production. Rolex then assembled the watch with a dial that was in the style of the beginning of the 1950s before its sale in 1951. Ofered with its original numbered guarantee dated 1951 indicating the present watch was sold at W. Rösch in Bern, this watch is preserved in impressive condition, with full proportions. The accompanying letter states that this watch was serviced only once throughout its lifetime, and the condition of this timepiece is testament to Poe’s words. The dial is preserved in excellent condition, with hardly any signs of aging. It is even accompanied by a wonderfully preserved Gay Frères bracelet stamped for 1949.
ROLEX Ref. 3525 “Libby Holman”
59.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A rare and attractive gilt brass clock with red-brown gold-brushed panels
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1973
Reference No.
1100
Movement No.
5’403
Material
Gilt brass and lacquer
Calibre
Quartz, cal. 29’’’, 29 jewels
Dimensions
210mm Width, 141mm Height and 105mm Length
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 $5,000-10,100 €4,400-8,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1973 with red-brown gold-brushed case glass panels and its subsequent sale on January 8, 1974.
This beautiful gilt brass desk clock features red-brown goldbrushed panels made to emulate the appearance of hard stone. Full of 1970s fair, the panels showcase beautiful gold and copper specks that bring the desk clock alive. This timepiece is preserved in excellent condition with hardly any signs of wear. Furthermore, the lacquer is intact throughout. Patek Philippe has always been generous in providing resources for the advancement and research of technology and horology. In 1948, Patek Philippe inaugurated its Electronic Division, with the goal of innovating photoelectric and electronic timekeeping technology. In 1955, the frm showcased a solar-powered photoelectric clock at the World Symposium.
60.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A rare and attractive gilt brass desk clock with ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1964
Reference No.
928
Movement No.
873’688
Case No.
1’254
Material
Gilt brass
Calibre
Photo-electric cell, cal. 17’’’250, 29 jewels
Dimensions
143mm Height, 90mm Length, 140mm Width
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,000-5,000 €2,700-4,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1964 with silvered dial plate, lapped indexes in gilt brass and its subsequent sale on October 16, 1965.
In 1948, Patek Philippe inaugurated its Electronic Division, with the goal of innovating photoelectric and electronic timekeeping technology. In 1955, the frm showcased a solar-powered photoelectric clock at the World Symposium. Fresh to the auction market, the present clock from 1964 merges state-of-the-art technology from the 1960s with the best of mechanical watchmaking. A large solar panel on the top of the case supplies energy to a storage device within which in turn transmits energy to power the movement. A battery system is also provided for back up, further illustrating how intelligent and ahead of its time this clock was. This clock, in overall excellent condition, successfully displays great technical innovation and futuristic timeless design, and would be a great addition to enhance any interior. It is furthermore accompanied by its original ftted presentation box.
61.
A stunning and unique gilt brass desk clock with cloisonné enamel scene ‘’La Nature’’ with original certifcate and invoice, by Elisabeth Perusset Lager
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1980
Reference No.
1103
Movement No.
1’803’515
Model Name
“La Nature”
Material
Gilt brass and enamel
Calibre
Photoelectric cell, cal. 33
Dimensions
142mm Width, 142mm Height, 90mm Length
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $101,000-201,000 €89,000-178,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated February 28, 1989 confrming that the present gilt metal timepiece with photoelectric quartz movement and cloisonné enamel “La Nature” decoration is a unique piece and original invoice dated February 28, 1989 stating a reduction of 3,000CHF and net charge of 25,500CHF. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe service receipt dated July 8, 2014 and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1980 and its subsequent sale on February 29, 1989.
Originally consigned by the family of the original owner at auction in the past, the present desk clock is nothing short of spectacular. Dubbed “La Nature”, this timepiece is confrmed
by the Certifcate of Origin as being a unique piece. Rendered in polychrome enamel with deep shades of orange, red and maroon, the present clock depicts women among fora and fauna. Undulating leaves and branches rise and fall throughout the tableau, while the side panels are designed with delicately painted birds. Composed in a cubist style, there is an emphasis on a fat, two-dimensional surface, along with an abstract interpretation of space and dimension. The desk clock is the perfect canvas for an artisan to showcase his or her ability to create beautiful paintings. To apply enamel on the panels requires extremely delicate handling and high technical ability, as enamel is particularly prone to cracking. The relatively vast space furthermore enables the artisan to exhibit a wide range of color and design. Ofered in pristine condition, this desk clock is replete with its original certifcate and invoice, stating the original price of purchase in 1989 for 25,500 CHF at the Patek Philippe Salon. Interestingly, this clock sat in the boutique for nine years before its sale in 1989. Today, it is one of the rarest and most desirable enamel clocks on the market, attesting to Patek Philippe’s vision, which was completely ahead of its time. The enamel of this clock was created by Elisabeth Perusset Lagger, a master enameller, who created polychrome enamel masterpieces for Patek Philippe in the second half of the 20th century.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1103 “La Nature”
62.
An historically important and rare enamel double case yellow gold quarter repeater pocket watch made for the Ottoman market
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1804
Case No.
2189
Model Name
N°1351 Turkish Quarter Repeater
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual
Dimensions
52mm Diameter
Signed
Case and dial signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by a Breguet ftted presentation box bearing number 1351 and Certifcate mentioning the present watch was sold to Esseyd Ali Efendi on 18 Fructidor an 12 (September 5, 1804). Literature Similar pocket watches made for the Ottoman market are illustrated in Abraham-Louis Breguet by Emmanuel Breguet, Nicole Minder and Rodolphe De Pierri pp. 130-134.
Abraham-Louis Breguet founded his eponymous company in 1775 in France. Soon afer he had to fee the country afer the revolution erupted, which also led to the demand of his watches by its main European markets to decline. His friendship with the Ottoman ambassador to Paris, Esseyd Ali Efendi and the growing interest towards European watches allowed him to present the country’s elite with his creations. Afer Efendi returned to Turkey in 1802 he commissioned A.-L. Breguet with a great number of watches. Subsequently the two men worked together to adapt the watches to the Turkish
market’s requirements. They should feature white enamel dials, sumptuously decorated cases in vivid colors such as red and more practically a double case to protect the watch, as the Ottomans used to wear their watches outside their clothes. On the dial side, a major style adjustment was conceded by A.-L. Breguet, the watches designed for the Turkish market was now featuring Breguet designed Eastern Arabic numerals instead of the more conventional Roman or Arabic numerals. The present Turkish Quarter repeater pocket watch is part of the very early watches commissioned by Esseyd Ali Efendi to his trusted friend Abraham-Louis Breguet. Thanks to Emmanuel Breguet, Head of Patrimony & Marketing, we were able to discover that the Breguet 1351 was sold on 18 Fructidor an 12 of the French Revolution calendar which means September 5, 1804 to Mr Esseyd Ali Efendi for the sum of 1,992 Francs. Over the course of its life, the watch returned to Breguet workshops in Paris four times: in 1861, 1876, 1877 and fnally in 1959 where a certifcate was issue to the London based owner at the time. This amazing piece of horological history is presented at auction in excellent condition. The enamel color on the cases is vibrant and famboyant, the white enamel dial with the Eastern Arabic numerals is pristine and the Breguet secret signature will be revealed to the fastidious collector. The watch is complete with both cases, the winding key and the Breguet ftted presentation box adorned with the watch number.
BREGUET No. 1351 “Esseyd Ali Efendi”
63.
An exceptional yellow gold, pearl-set and enamel open face centre seconds duplex escapment pocket watch with enamel caseback depicting Antigone and her father Oedipus, made for the Chinese market
Manufacturer
Ilbery
Year
Circa 1820
Movement No.
7114
Case No.
7114
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual
Dimensions
60mm Diameter
Signed
Movement signed Ilbery London
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $40,200-60,300 €35,600-53,400
The Greek myth of Oedipus inspired many artists from the antiquity till today. In the early 19th century, enamel miniature painters found inspiration in many classical subject ranging from copies of famous paintings to Greek mythology as in this pocket watch. The scene on this watch depicts the old and blind Oedipus wandering around Thebes with his daughter Antigone and could be seen as a symbol of flial piety or dutiful loyalty. William Ilbery was one of the most renowned British watchmaker of his time. He was active in London from circa 1780 to 1839. Although he worked mainly in London, Ilbery maintained close contact with trade in other countries. In particular, Ilbery was remembered for his production of luxurious enamel pocket watches in gold for the Chinese market
where they were highly coveted. These pocket watches were adorned with small round pearls on the face and caseback and exquisite enamel miniature paintings on the cases. Most of these pocket watches depicted foral arrangements, domestic scenes, classical paintings with only a few inspired by scenes from Greek mythology. Ilbery had the most elaborated cases of his watches decorated by the best Geneva enamellers such as Jean-François-Victor Dupont and Jean-Louis Richter. Like all his pocket watches, the present example is endowed with a traditional English style movement with full plate and duplex escapement which in itself is a showcase for fne crafsmanship with its superbly hand engraved decoration. The calibre is further protected by a double caseback, which, like a butterfy, displays even more marvels when it opens its wings. Preserved in superb overall condition, the present watch with its fne enamel miniature paintings and its unusual theme will be as coveted by today’s discerning collectors as in China in the 19th century.
ILBERY “Antigone and Oedipus”
64.
A large, extremely rare and attractive platinum wristwatch with certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1962
Reference No.
3429
Movement No.
1’112’661
Case No.
2’621’526
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460, 37 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
stamped twice with the Geneva seal Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and pin buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcat d’Origine dated July 1963 and ftted presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1962 and its subsequent sale on July 13, 1963.
Launched in 1960, reference 3429 was cased predominantly in yellow gold. To date, only two examples in platinum have surfaced on the market, making this example incredibly rare. Compounding to this astounding rarity, the piece is ofered in extremely attractive condition: the edges and proportions of the case are perfectly preserved, and the hallmark to the band - a particularly sensitive location - is perfectly discernible. The dial as well appears to be unmolested, featuring raised hard enamel graphics and a gentle ivory patina. The movement beating inside this remarkable specimen is furthermore one of the most celebrated automatic movements of all times: cal. 27-460, the name given to the fnal evolution of legendary calibre 12-600AT, considered by many the gold standard for automatic movements. Reuniting absolute rarity, outstanding condition, timeless elegance, mechanical perfection, and the presence of its original box and Certifcate, the present wristwatch would delight the most spoilt vintage Patek Philippe collector.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3429 Platinum
65.
A very fne, rare and important yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1974
Reference No.
3448
Movement No.
1’119’339
Case No.
331’496
Model Name
Padellone
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460 Q, 37 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
fact made from 1961 to 1981, when it was retired in favor of its sibling ref. 3450 (very similar, with some minor diferences in the case construction, and with the leap year indication). The movement is based on what is universally recognized as one of the greatest - if not the greatest - automatic movement ever designed: cal. 27-460 (which is the fnal evolution of historical cal. 12-600AT), upgraded of course with a perpetual movement to become cal. 27-460Q (Q for Quantième: perpetual).
stamped twice with the Geneva seal
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 $121,000-181,000 €107,000-160,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1974 and its subsequent sale on June 28, 1974.
Reference 3448 is a landmark model in the history of Patek Philippe. Technically, the reference represents the frst example of automatic perpetual calendar made by the company; aesthetically, it incorporates design elements absolutely typical of the 1960s and 1970s. Historically, it is remarkable as one of the very few complicated models which Patek Philippe kept producing even during the quartz crisis of the 1970s: it was in
The design is defned by a very futuristic case architecture and an extremely clean dial, without virtually any kind of graphic addition save for the minute divisions and the signature. Fully incorporating design elements typical of the time, it is defned by sharp, angular shapes - a completely diferent approach to case architecture than the smooth curves found on other historical pieces such as reference 2499 and 1518. Four series are known for the reference: early examples feature small calendar ring, indexes closer to the center of the dial and engraved/enameled minute divisions; the second series introduces beady minute divisions; the third series maintains the beady divisions but introduces the large numerals for the date rings and indexes closer to the outer edge of the dial, and fnally the fourth series - exemplifed by the present timepiece features printed minute divisions. Ofered for the frst time on the public market, the present timepiece impresses with its remarkable honest and wellpreserved condition and is without a doubt a compendium of technical profciency and design mastery.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3448 “Padellone”
66.
A rare and exceedingly well-preserved yellow gold chronograph openface watch with vertical registers, Breguet numerals, original certifcate and presentation box, retailed by Eberhard Milan
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1926
Movement No.
197’964
Case No.
414’483
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 18”’, 26 jewels
Dimensions
47.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, cuvette, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin and ftted presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1926 with Breguet numerals and its subsequent sale on November 11, 1929. Furthermore accompanied by unsigned associated gold chain.
This yellow gold openface chronograph watch is an incredible relic of time. Extremely well-preserved, it displays Breguet numerals and vertical registers, both of which are confrmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives. Furthermore, it displays the signature of Eberhard-Milan above the subsidiary register at 6 o’clock. Most notably, the cuvette is also stamped “Fabrication Spéciale Pour L’Horlogerie Eberhard-Milan”, indicating that this watch was specially made for the famed and storied Italian retailer. As an added layer of collectibility, this timepiece is accompanied by its Certifcate of Origin and presentation box. It is ofered in excellent condition with a crisp hallmark punched on the bow. The “PPC” stamp is crisp and immediately visible.
PATEK PHILIPPE No. 197'954 “Eberhard-Milan”
67.
An extremely fne, possibly unique and superbly elegant platinum wristwatch with original Gay Frères bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1948
Reference No.
96
Movement No.
962’563
Case No.
301’478
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Gay Frères for Patek Phillippe bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Gay Frères for Patek Philippe
Dimensions
31mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp stamped by maker,
clasp stamped 448
clasp further stamped by bracelet maker Estimate CHF 70,000-120,000 $70,400-121,000 €62,300-107,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe ftted presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1948 with silvered dial and platinum bracelet and its subsequent sale on August 29, 1949.
In production from 1932 until 1973, reference 96 was a stalwart in Patek Philippe’s collection. It is the frst Calatrava model that Patek Philippe ever produced, ushering in a new era for both the frm and the dress wristwatch. It defned the Calatrava “style” while also being the frst model to introduce numbered references to Patek Philippe’s timepieces. Cased most ofen in yellow gold, the reference was also produced in pink gold, white gold and most exclusively, in platinum. To date, no more than 7 platinum examples are known with lapped indexes, and the present watch is the only known variant to be ftted with lapped indexes and a bracelet, as confrmed in the Extract from the Archives. This timepiece is a superlative example. Preserved in exceptional condition, it showcases crisp lugs and full proportions. The platinum marks on the case are crisp and highly visible even without the aid of a loupe. It is furthermore accompanied by luxurious Patek Philippe Gay Frères platinum bracelet stamped for 1948, corresponding to the year of manufacture. Such stunning examples hardly ever come to the market, and when they do, it is an occasion to be celebrated.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 96 “Full Platinum”
68.
A large, attractive and exceptionally well-preserved triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and two-tone dial, original box and numbered hang tag
Reference 8171 is lovingly dubbed “Padellone”, which translates to “large frying pan” in Italian. Boasting a generous 38 mm case, it is slightly larger than its waterproof Oyster sibling, reference 6062. Both references 8171 and 6062 were the only two vintage Rolex models with moonphases, giving them a mythical reputation and cult-like following. Produced for a very short period of time in the early 1950s, reference 8171 and 6062 were available in yellow gold, pink gold, and stainless steel. Quite likely one of the greatest and best preserved yellow gold reference 8171s to surface on the market in recent years, this timepiece is an absolutely exceptional specimen. Displaying completely original lines, curves, and fnishes, it best demonstrates the genesis and factory specifcations of the mythical reference. The bezel is overwhelmingly crisp and displays a bevel at the base that would have instantly disappeared with polishing. Of particular note is that sharp Rolex coronet and case number that is visible and immediately legible on the caseback, attesting to the untouched nature of this timepiece. Furthermore, a deep and sharp hallmark is visible on the bottom of the lug.
ROLEX Ref. 8171 “The Sleeping Beauty Padellone”
68.
A large, attractive and exceptionally well-preserved triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and two-tone dial, original box and numbered hang tag
ROLEX Ref. 8171 “The Sleeping Beauty Padellone”
68.
A large, attractive and exceptionally well-preserved triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and two-tone dial, original box and numbered hang tag
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1950
Reference No.
8171
Movement No.
G99’551 and 20’572
Case No.
762’159
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 10”1/2, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Original Rolex alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle
Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 ∑ O $402,000-804,000 €356,000-712,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex original hang tag and presentation box. An artwork representing this timepiece as found on the back cover of this catalogue will be ofered to the winning bidder.
As with all “Padellone” watches, the beauty lies in the dial. Those in original condition, such as this one, are few and far between and appear infrequently on the market. This particular example is best characterized as extraordinary. The dial is undeniably original. The sharp track where the moonphases aperture meets the rim of the subsidiary dial is incredibly precise and correct. One would expect to see signifcant spotting to the dial considering that this watch is not waterproof and has a snap on caseback. Yet, it remains clear of blemishes. Furthermore, the two-tone design is unmistakable and the “Ofcially Certifed Chronometer” script is visible and crisp. If these details and attributes have not already surpassed any collector’s wildest expectations, this timepiece is furthermore accompanied by its original numbered hang tag and presentation box, adding yet another layer of collectibility. Interestingly, while the present watch has a snap-on caseback, the hangtag says “Rolex Oyster”, showing how the retailers used whatever supplies and accessories they had in stock, at the time. Even the Rolex strap is the original to the timepiece, which is a marvelous feat in itself. To acquire a reference 8171 is a dream for many collectors today. Yet, to discover one fresh to the auction market and preserved in unpolished condition with an immaculate dial, is positively unheard of. It is unimaginable when a white whale of watch collecting comes to the market, and it is with great certainty that another will not appear soon.
ROLEX Ref. 8171 “The Sleeping Beauty Padellone”
69.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet, retailed by Joyeria Riveria
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1953
Reference No.
6305-1
Movement No.
93’298
Case No.
971’775
Model Name
Datejust “Joyeria Riviera”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 775, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.55
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700
Preserved in spectacular condition, this early Datejust was retailed by the jeweler Joyeria Riviera. In business since 1943 and based in Havana, Cuba, the famous shop has had the privilege of stamping their name on vintage Rolex watches, ranging from Killys, to Datejusts and even early chronograph models. Early Datejusts most notably featured a reeded bezel and this timepiece is no exception. This case is preserved in excellent condition. So pristine is this watch that the inside caseback does not display any service markings. Still retaining its original crown, this watch displays a crisp and legible hallmark beneath the lugs. The Jubilee bracelet is from the period and stamped for 1955. Displaying non luminous hands and non luminous hour marks, the dial is equally remarkable. It has taken on a light layer of patina over time, which gives the watch so much charm and charisma. The red Datejust accents and date wheel are characteristic of Datejusts from the 1950s and are correct for the serial number.
ROLEX Ref. 6305-1 “Red Datejust for Joyeria Riviera”
70.
A very fne, rare and extremely well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with certifcate, invoice and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1942
Reference No.
533
Movement No.
863’015
Case No.
630’665
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-140,000 $80,400-141,000 €71,200-125,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin, original invoice and archive picture and original black strap. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1942 and its subsequent sale on April 21, 1943.
While reference 130 is arguable the best known vintage Patek Philippe chronograph, it is in fact not the only model the company made. One of its closest relatives is indeed the present reference 533. Difering from reference 130 only for the fat bezel, the rest of the Vichet-made case is identical to its brethren. This subtle change dramatically modifes the overall look of the piece, most notably making it appear larger and
more angular. As the fat, sharp-edged bezel is the defning feature of the watch, it is of paramount importance for it to be in excellent condition in order for the beholder to fully appreciated the aesthetics of the timepiece. Luckily, the present example is one of the best-preserved specimens of the reference to ever appear on the market. The bezel is as sharp as ever, and the hallmarks are present, deep and crisp. The lugs do not present signs of thinning or tapering, highlighting the superior level of preservation of the watch. As incredible as it sounds, its superior condition is boosted by the presence not only of the original Certifcat d’Origine, but even the original invoice (from which one can see this watch was part of a 4 watches order delivered in Geneva to a Spanish client (Mr. José Muller from Barcelona) on April 21, 1943 - a date confrmed by the Extract from the Archives. Reference 533 was in production from 1937 to 1957, and was made in very restricted numbers. It is estimated that the total production was about 350 pieces, of which only 125 in yellow gold.
ROLEX Ref. 533 “The Time Machine”
71.
An exceptionally fne, rare and important yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with star-set numerals and moonphases
Launched at the Basel fair in 1950, reference 6062 was the frst automatic wristwatch with date and moonphases to be housed in a waterproof case. Cased in stainless steel, yellow gold and pink gold, the model was ftted with a number of dial variants. One of the most iconic versions is without a doubt, one ftted with eight faceted stars in lieu of hour numerals, such as the present watch. Such is the desirability, and popularity of the watch, that collectors have dubbed it “Stelline”, meaning “starlet” in Italian. Reference 6062 is one of two Rolex models to feature a triple calendar complication with a moon phase complication. While reference 6062 features a screw down Oyster caseback, reference 8171 features a snap-on caseback. Few watches cause fervor and excitement among collectors like reference 6062 and 8171 can. While Rolex is particularly known for its sports models, such as the Submariner or Daytona, the manufacture has created some of the most sublime triple calendar wristwatches in the world. Over the years, these two models have garnered a cult-following, with condition being prized above all.
ROLEX Ref. 6062 “The S.W. Levitan Stelline”
71.
An exceptionally fne, rare and important yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with star-set numerals and moonphases
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1952
Reference No.
6062
Movement No.
N33’002 and 10’389
Case No.
916’340
Model Name
“Stelline”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 10 172’’’, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 $402,000-804,000 €356,000-712,000
The present “Stelline” is preserved in impressive condition. Most examples are spotted throughout, due to aging and exposure to environmental elements. Yet, this dial barely has any imperfections. The numerals on the outer track are inky blue, and the day and date apertures are sharp and angular, demonstrating the originality of the dial. The luminous dots have aged evenly with the numerals, both having aged with warm patina. The yellow gold case, preserved in excellent and sharp condition, displays a sharp hallmark to the bottom of the lug. Of particular note is that caseback engraving bearing “S.W Levitan Wash. D.C.” Research shows that Simon W. Levitan was an accountant for more than 50 years and the former president of the D.C. Board of Accountancy. On top of his many achievements, he was even a special agent during his lifetime. Fresh to the auction market, the present watch has resided in a private collection for many years. Rarely does this model come at auction, no less in such desirable and impressive condition.
ROLEX Ref. 6062 “The S.W. Levitan Stelline”
72.
A large, rare and attractive pink gold wristwatch with black lacquer dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1954
Reference No.
6305
Movement No.
06’593
Case No.
971’888
Model Name
Datejust “Ovettone”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 775, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.54
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500
Displaying a reeded bezel, reference 6305 is nicknamed “Ovettone” due to the likeness of its case to an egg. This beautiful pink gold “Ovettone” is preserved in excellent condition with an arresting lacquer dial. Displaying a stunning mirror-like fnish, the dial features three lines of script bearing “Chronometer Ofcially Certifed” at 6 o’clock. This confguration is extremely rare as most dials display “Ofcially Certifed Chronometer” in two lines. It is incredibly rare to discover a black lacquer dial in such pristine condition, no less with such a singular appearance. Preserved in sensational condition, this pink gold Datejust boasts sharp satin fnishes on the top of the lugs, as well as a sharp hallmark beneath the lug. The case has developed a light layer of patina throughout, demonstrating how little intervention it has seen throughout its lifetime. This timepiece even retains its original Super Oyster crown. The pink gold Rolex Jubilee is stamped for the frst quarter of 1954, corresponding to the year of manufacture.
ROLEX Ref. 6305 Datejust “Black Glossy Ovettone”
73.
A very rare, large and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with silver dial and tachymeter scale, retailed by Salvatore Barraja
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1948
Reference No.
530
Movement No.
867’456
Case No.
511’389
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13”’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $151,000-251,000 €133,000-222,000 Accessories Accompanied by original ftted box, and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming date of production of the present watch in 1948 and its subsequent sale on April 3, 1951 Literature Reference 530 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 265.
Imagine that the design of a historical piece is so relevant that one of Switzerland’s most prestigious brands decides to relaunch it as a modern reiteration. That is what the current Patek Philippe reference 5170 chronograph is, an homage to the delightfully awesome reference 530.
Launched in 1937, Patek Philippe’s reference 530 remains one of the rarest and largest vintage chronograph models manufactured by the frm, its large 36.5mm diameter being as contemporary as it was 80 years ago. The reference 530 can be considered the ultimate in terms of rarity, desirability, and aesthetic beauty. The case and dial design of the present lot hit all the right notes. The perfect equilibrium between the case diameter and thickness, the powerful lugs and concave bezel speak of highly contemporary elegance. The gorgeous silver dial has turned a pleasing vanilla, the crisp hard enamel signature exudes beauty and grace. Adding to the appeal of this timepiece is the fact that it comes from the family of the original owner where is has remained for decades unworn. Fresh to the market, the present yellow gold reference 530 chronograph is only the 26th to appear on the market. The present reference 530 chronograph impresses with its original factory fnished case, the satin and brushed surfaces provide for an arresting contrast and the gold hallmarks are crisp presenting an unbelievable opportunity not to be missed by the avid collector.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 530 “The Salvatore Barraja”
74.
CHRONOSWISS AND EBEL – A set of two wristwatches composed of a pink gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial, tear drop lugs and box and a stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with white dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Chronoswiss and Ebel
Year
Circa 1995 and circa 2005
Reference No.
a) CH7401R b) 9’137’241
Movement No.
a) 02’930
Case No.
a) 01’013 b) 64’505’000
Model Name
a) KlassiK b) Le Modulor
Material
a) 18K pink gold b) Stainless steel
Calibre
a) Automatic, cal. 7750, 25 jewels b) Automatic, cal. 137, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
a) Leather b) Stainless steel Ebel bracelet, end links stamped 6024 CH, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
a) 18K pink gold Chronoswiss pin buckle b) Stainless steel Ebel deployant clasp
Dimensions Signed
a) 37mm Diameter b) 36mm Diameter a) Case, dial and movement signed b) Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 3,500-5,000 ∙ $3,500-5,000 €3,100-4,400 Accessories a) Accompanied by Chronoswiss presentation box with outer packaging and open papers.
Founded in the early 1980s by Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, Chronoswiss raison d’être, was to ofer mechanical watches presenting interesting complications with designs inspired from the golden era of watchmaking at attractive prices.
Lang, a trained watchmaker spent the largest part of his career at Heuer but early 1980 at the height of the quartz crisis he was let go. Not accepting defeat, he launched not only a brand making exclusively mechanical watches but it is believed that Chronoswiss was the frst brand to systematically ofer sapphire casebacks on its watches as to show the mechanical movement beating inside. The present Klassik is reminiscent of the golden age of chronographs with its classically sized 37mm case, its strong facetted lugs, black dial and gilt lettering. In superb condition the present Klassik would be a perfect watch for the budding collector looking for a timepiece providing for great value. The present set is completed by a stainless steel Ebel, Le Modulor. This sportive and masculine chronograph perfectly embodies the Ebel DNA with its curved, almost wavy case and bracelet. Powered by one of the most famous caliber, the El Primero, this watch is part of an exclusive family ftted with the historical frst automatic chronograph movement. The silver and white dial beautifully complement the case and confer this watch a pure and very well balance style. A watch to wear everyday as sport of elegant timepiece. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
75.
JACQUET DROZ – A rare and attractive stainless steel world time chronograph wristwatch with rotating bezel, with case by Gallet
Manufacturer
Jacquet Droz
Year
Circa 1975
Model Name
“Flying Ofcer”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 149, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Metal buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed Jacquet Droz, case signed Gallet
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 • $4,000-6,000 €3,600-5,300
Preserved in astounding condition, this interesting Flying Ofcer wristwatch was produced by Gallet, but retailed by Jacquet Droz. Rumored to have been developed under Harry Truman, the Flying Ofcer is an incredibly useful tool watch. While the chronograph function enables the wearer to measure time intervals, the rotating bezel and worldtime scale also allows the user to track multiple time zones. To the best of our knowledge, the present watch is the only Gallet “Flying Ofcer” wristwatch retailed by Jacquet Droz that has appeared on the auction market, making this timepiece incredibly rare. Furthermore, it is ofered in unpolished and most probably “New Old Stock” condition with crisp facet, full lugs. All the original printing on the dial remains intact. The luminous material has aged evenly with the hands and now display beautiful patina. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
76.
VULCAIN – An extremely fne and rare pink gold dual-time alarm wristwatch with polychrome cloisonné enamel dial. Number 24 of a limited edition of 25 pieces
Manufacturer
Vulcain
Year
Circa 2011
Reference No.
100506.023
Case No.
Lim. Ed. no 24/25
Model Name
Cricket
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-8,000 ∙ $6,000-8,000 €5,300-7,100
The present piece represents a dress version of the famous “Cricket” alarm timepiece, in pink gold and featuring a breathtaking enamel dial. The generous 42mm diameter of the watch leaves ample room for the very large central cloisonné decor, representing the map of west Africa and Europe, and East North and South America with a plane in the center, ideally fying from Europe to America. The rest of the dial features a fxed metal ring used to select the alarm time with the red-tipped hand, and an outer revolving ring used for the second time zone indication. Number 24 of a 25 pieces limited edition, the watch is furthermore ofered in virtually “as-new” condition. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
77.
ROGER DUBUIS – A limited edition pink gold chronograph wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moonphases and box
Manufacturer
Roger Dubuis
Year
Circa 1995
Movement No.
14
Case No.
04/28
Model Name
Sympathie Retrograde Perpetual
Material
18K pink gold
Calendar Chronograph Calibre
Manual, cal. RD5610, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Roger Dubuis pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-22,000 $12,100-22,100 €10,700-19,600 Accessories Accompanied by Roger Dubuis presentation box with outer packaging.
Afer a long stint at Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis created his own eponymous brand in 1995. As an independent watchmaker he developed the “Sympathie” that was an audacious and innovative case design. The present Sympathie retrograde perpetual calendar stands out of the normal production by numerous point. The high end Lemania caliber, the same as the one powering Patek Philippe references 3970 and 5970, has been beautifully modifed to display the retrograde calendar. Made in Geneva and thanks to the quality of this movement based on a profound respect for tradition, it has been granted with the Geneva seal. The large 43mm diameter distinctive pink gold case’s shape is unmistakable and the dial gives an impressive amount of information. In addition to the moonphase, this perpetual calendar shows the day, date, month, leap year and less usual, it even displays the week on the outer ring of the dial. This watch was released as a limited edition of 28 pieces. Brave, bold and technically sophisticated as the brand likes to defne itself, this watch can be seen as the Geneva watchmaker’s legacy.
78.
A rare and attractive white gold skeletonized wristwatch with bracelet, original certifcate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2009
Reference No.
5180
Movement No.
3’719’011
Case No.
4’454’904
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 SQU, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe concealed
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 O $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated November 9, 2009, product literature, leather wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Stylish and bold, reference 5180 features a fully skeletonized movement and dial, along with a luxurious and lavish white gold rice grain bracelet. At the time of launch in 2008, it was an instant hit among the horological community. Patek Philippe’s quality of production is second to none, and the bridges and components have been painstakingly hand-engraved, attesting to brand’s commitment to excellence. Furthermore, the 39 millimeter case provides a hefy presence on the wrist. Preserved in excellent and barely worn condition, the present timepiece is complete with its original accessories, such as the certifcate and presentation box.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5180
79.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE – A very fne and rare honey gold limited edition wristwatch with moonphases, original guarantee and presentation box, made to commemorate the 165th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne in 2010
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2010
Reference No.
212.050
Movement No.
84’076
Case No.
123/265 and 194’048
Model Name
Homage to F.A. Lange 1815 Moonphase
Material
18K honey gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L948.2, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K honey gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5 mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 18,000-25,000 $18,100-25,100 €16,000-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee dated November 14, 2010, setting pin, balance cock engraving authenticity paper, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 2010, Walter Lange introduced the F. A. Lange 1815 Moonphase as a tribute to both his great grandfather Ferdinand Adolph Lange and as a celebration of their 165th anniversary. To celebrate the occasion, the frm produced three commemorative timepieces each using their proprietary 18K honey gold alloy. In addition to the 1815 Moonphase which was produced in 265 pieces, A. Lange & Söhne also released a Tourbograph Pour le Mérite and a Lange 1 Tourbillon. The proprietary honey gold alloy is harder and more durable making it more resistant to scratching, while adding a warm hue to the timepiece. In addition to the unusual gold alloy, A. Lange & Söhne engineers developed a highly precise moonphase gear train, which would require no correction to the moonphases for 1000 years as long as the watch was kept wound. The present example, number 123, is preserved in like-new condition and is replete with all its original accessories, such as the guarantee dated November 14, 2010, setting pin, balance cock engraving authenticity paper, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
80.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE – A very fne pink gold dual time wristwatch with date, power reserve indication, guarantee and box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2006
Reference No.
116.031
Movement No.
53’565
Case No.
164’178
Model Name
Lange 1 Zeitzone
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L031.1, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold deployant clasp signed A. Lange
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne ftted box, guarantee, leather holder and product literature.
In just 25 years the Lange 1 has become one of the most iconic designs of modern watchmaking, its ofset dial and large date display having become signature elements. However, Lange & Söhne is also respected for its technical expertise and “no compromise” philosophy. This is the reason why the present Zeitzone (time zone in German) is more than just a dual time watch.
The main dial on the lef indicates local time whereas the subdial at 4 o’clock is dedicated to a second time zone. The small arrow in the second time zone dial points at the city that time is currently set on. This solution allows for an outstanding aesthetic impact of the piece, which acquires somewhat of a “world time” vibe, and it is enormously practical. When analyzing the Zeitzone, it is actually apparent how Lange placed practicality above all else, and how the aesthetics of the piece are a consequence of this choice: form truly follows function, rather than the other way around, both under a visual point of view and also under an operational one. Visually, beyond the already mentioned city ring, the watch features day/night indications for both local and second time zone, avoiding the very common issue of confusing night and day times at the home location. Operationally, the piece features a quick-setting pusher at 10 o’clock for the date and a second pusher at 8 o’clock that advances the city ring and second time zone indicator. In excellent condition and complete with box and papers the present Lange 1 Zeitzone is an example of Saxon watchmaking at its best.
81.
A very fne and extremely attractive white gold automatic annual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, moonphases, 24 hours indication, bracelet, certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2012
Reference No.
5396G-001
Movement No.
5’684’405
Case No.
4’569’928
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal 324 S QA LU 24H, 34 jewels, stamped with the Patek Philippe seal
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max. length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin Stamped by Kuwait Patek Philippe boutique and dated September 19, 2012, additional bracelet links, setting pin, product literature, leather document holder, ftted wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe was the frst manufacturer to introduce the annual calendar complication, ofering a mid-tier option between the relatively simple triple calendar and the highly complicated perpetual one. The complication appeared frst in 1996 with reference 5035 - and successive iterations - featuring a Calatrava style case and a 36mm case diameter. In 2006, exactly ten years afer the frst appearance of the complication, reference 5396 marked the introduction of a second annual calendar dress watch option in the company lineup. An example of the understated elegance Patek Philippe is known for, the model heavily borrows design elements from one of the great classics of Patek Philippe production: perpetual calendar reference 3448 (and its later sibling ref. 3450). The dial design is nearly identical, with two windows for day and month at 12 o’ clock, a subsidiary dial at 6 o’ clock, and an overall very minimal and clean dial design without any scale. The case also features the same polished sloped bezel of the vintage model. Some diferences with ref. 3448/3450 are the presence of a date window and the introduction of the 24 hours indication dial-wise, and diferent lugs design case-wise. Reference 5396 frst appeared in 2006, in white or pink gold. The present variation (blue dial, bracelet) was introduced in 2012 and this is only the second example to ever appear on the market. Ofered in practically new-old-stock condition from its original owner, this bracelet, blue dial ref. 5396 will endlessly please its new custodian with its exquisite proportions and allure.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5936
82.
A very fne, rare and elegant honey gold wristwatch with tourbillon, hack feature, guarantee and box. Number 61 of a 150 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2011
Reference No.
722.050
Movement No.
82’040
Case No.
192’025 Limited edition number 61/150
Model Name
Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange”
Material
18K honey gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L961.2, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K honey gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-90,000 $60,300-90,500 €53,400-80,100 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Garantie and service booklet stamped by Kuwait retailer Morad Yousuf Behbehani and dated April 15, 2011, product literature, leather wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging
The present timepiece is part of the trilogy of watches released by A. Lange & Söhne in 2010 to commemorate their founder Ferdinand Adolf Lange. A limited edition of 150 pieces, the present watch is number 68 of the series. It is apparent to the beholder that the material employed for the case shines with a very unusual hue. Indeed, it is the new alloy “honey gold” developed by Lange which, beyond its enthralling color, also boasts increased hardness - and thus resistance to scratching - than the usual 18K gold alloy. The same material is used in other parts of the watch such as the hands and, most notably, the bridges of the movement as noticeable through the glazed back. Further underlining the prestige of this limited edition, even the exquisitely decorated dial is made out of solid gold. The sheen of the honey gold alloy is shaped into a quintessential Lange model: the Lange 1. With its deceptively simple-looking, but in fact highly complex case - as noticeable when looking at the bevels of the lugs - the watch exudes class, strength and style in absolute Teutonic fashion. The architecture of the movement itself employs the typical Saxonian 3/4 plate, decorated with the telltale undulating Lange décor, and boasts a mind-blowing total of 51 jewels: 49 rubies and 2 diamond. By comparison, some grand complication Swiss movements feature a similar amount of jewels to that reserved for this tourbillon wristwatch: this highlights the absolutely undisputed level of quality and fnish Lange reserved for these exceptional timepieces.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Lange 1 Tourbillon Honey Gold
83.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, original certifcate, sales tag, setting pin, ftted presentation box and outer packaging
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2008
Reference No.
5980/1
Movement No.
3’666’672
Case No.
4’442’397
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 C, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
43.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated June 18, 2008, original sales tag, setting pin, product literature, wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Presented in 2006, reference 5980/1 was launched alongside its time-only sibling reference 5711. A particularly early example displaying a blue dial, this watch is preserved in impressive and near-mint condition. It is replete with its original accessories such as the Certifcate of Origin, sales tag, setting pin, leather wallet, product literature and presentation box. Furthermore, it has been serviced by Patek Philippe and retains its service sticker and service box.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5918 Nautilus
84.
An incredibly rare and attractive platinum minute repeating wristwatch with enamel dial, original certifcate, additional case back, portfolio and winding box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2010
Reference No.
5078
Movement No.
1’904’247
Case No.
4’486’952
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. R 27 PS AIG 2, 39 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 180,000-360,000 $181,000-362,000 €160,000-320,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated April 23, 2010, additional case back, ftted wooden Patek Philippe presentation box, box key, winding box, leather portfolio with glossy photograph, product literature and outer packaging.
The Patek Philippe reference 5078 minute repeater other than being a superbly good looking and elegant watch is a gem of horological micro engineering. Powered by a self-winding movement with micro-rotor, its caliber R 27 PS is comprised of 342 parts and measures a
very slim 5.05 mm in thickness. Winding is accomplished via a beautifully engraved micro-rotor, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, and superbly integrated into the movement to permit an unobstructed view of the repeater’s hammers and gongs. The repeating mechanism features “cathedral gongs” meaning the gong on which the hammers strike to chime the time are longer than traditional ones. The gong in a standard repeating mechanism wraps around the movement once whereas those of the “Cathedral” mechanism wrap around the movement with a length equivalent to nearly two circumferences and are thus twice as long as standard ones. The result being a richer and fuller timbre with the notes lingering slightly longer. The present model is housed in an elegant 38mm platinum case with downturned stepped lugs reminiscent of another Patek Philippe iconic masterpiece, the reference 2499 and featuring a superb white grand feu enamel dial. Platinum is ofen considered to be a metal that dampens the sound of the chimes in minute repeaters, this is defnitely not the case here as the chimes are clear and incredibly pleasant. Fresh to the market, in absolutely amazing condition and accompanied by all its accessories, the present Patek Philippe reference 5078 is the 10th platinum example with white enamel dial to ever appear on the auction market and would be a crown jewel in any important collection.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5078 Platinum
85.
PATEK PHILIPPE – An attractive and most probably unique platinum wristwatch with original removable platinum bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1958
Reference No.
2591
Movement No.
782’045
Case No.
424’859
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 23-300, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum bracelet signed Patek Philippe max. length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum clasp
Dimensions
34.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with platinum bracelet in 1958 and its subsequent sale on October 5, 1959. Literature Reference 2591 is featured in Patek Philippe Wristwatches, by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery p. 186.
Manufacture of reference 2591 started in 1957 and epitomizes perfectly the design acumen of the era with its perfectly balanced minimalistic dial devoid of any unnecessary clutter. The freworks however are reserved for the bewildering original platinum mesh bracelet (as confrmed by the Patek Philippe Extract) giving the watch an inimitable panache. Reference 2591 was made mainly in yellow and white gold and only 5 models in platinum are known. Fresh to the market, the present watch is the only known example with original removable platinum bracelet and most probably a unique piece. Finding this a unique piece in such attractive condition is a true opportunity that should not be missed.
86.
OMEGA – A fne and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with racing dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
145.012-67 SP
Movement No.
26’545’197
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet stamped “516” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“1039” and “4 67”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch on October 7, 1968 with black and red dial with luminous indexes and its subsequent delivery to Switzerland.
Reference 145.012 was in production from 1967 to 1969. It is the successor to ref. 105.012, with one of the main improvements being the new pusher styles, taller than the previous iteration. Furthermore, some examples of this reference mount special pushers with even higher water resistance capabilities than the standard ones. Such models are identifed by the SP designation at the end of the reference (SP standing for Special Poussoirs - Special Pushers), such as the present specimen. The model undergoes subtle design changes during its lifetime, most notably moving from a chronographic seconds hand featuring a “teardrop-style” tails in the frst examples to much more linear “needle-like” one for later ones, such as the present piece. The true appeal of this specimen lies however in its unusual dial confguration, defned chiefy by the red fve-minute divisions. Such dials - now known by the Omega community as “Racing Dials” - are extremely rare to fnd - especially in such fawless condition. Beyond their aesthetic appeal and rarity, they also represent one of the extremely scarce examples of Speedmaster dials featuring other colors than black and white.
87.
OMEGA – A set of two extremely attractive and well-preserved wristwatches, one set with diamonds and gold plated and retailed by Tifany & Co. and another spectacularlypreserved in yellow gold with “Pie-Pan” dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
Circa 1974 and Circa 1956
Reference No.
C6865 and 2852/2583
Movement No.
36’839’892 and 15’765’162
Case No.
004’973 and 267’142
Model Name
De Ville “Tifany & Co.” and “Constellation”
Material
Gold Plated and 18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1020, 17 jewels and Automatic, cal.
505, 24 jewels Bracelet/Strap
Leather and Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Metal buckle and gold plated Omega buckle
Dimensions
34.5mm Diameter and 35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-8,000 $4,000-8,000 €3,600-7,100 Accessories Reference 2852/2853 is accompanied by Omega Extract of the Archives confrming production of this watch on March 28, 1953 and delivery to Venezuela.
The present lot comprises of two very attractive and well preserved wristwatches that compliment each other aesthetically. The frst, is a Seamaster De Ville retailed by Tifany & Co. Few manufactures have had the privilege of being retailed at the storied jeweler Tifany & Co. Set with diamond markers, this timepiece is preserved in excellent condition with crisp facets and a strong signature at 12 o’clock. The Constellation too, is preserved in spectacular condition. Displaying two crisp hallmarks beneath the lug, it boasts factory fnishes and great proportions. The polished and satin fnishes are impressive and the lugs retain an incredibly defned appearance. Furthermore, the gold has developed a layer of patina beneath the lugs, attesting to its barely touched state of preservation. The “Pie Pan” dial is ofered in fantastic condition and does not display signs of tarnishing despite its age. Launched in 1952, the “Constellation” was at the time, Omega’s most coveted and top-of-the-line model. It was cased in a range of metals, and was designed with a variety of dial details. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
88.
OMEGA – A fne and rare pink gold wristwatch with black glossy dial and bearing the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah of Kuwait
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1959
Reference No.
OT 2849
Movement No.
16’560’665
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 503, 20 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Lizard
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated pin buckle signed Omega
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-6,000 ∑ $3,000-6,000 €2,700-5,300 Accessories Accompanied by original ftted box, outer box, product literature and Omega Extract of the Archives confrming production of this watch on April 14, 1959 and delivery to Kuwait.
Preserved in absolutely superb condition (with original strap and buckle still present), this Seamaster is a rare model in pink gold with beautiful galvanic dial. Its rarity is further enhanced by the striking signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah, a member of the Kuwaiti royal family. Considering the fact that the watch is in gold we believe that it was ordered as a gif to be ofered by the prince to important dignitaries and members of staf.
Launched in 1948, the Omega Seamaster is the oldest line in the manufacture’s current collection. Fitted with a waterproof patented case, the model was initially made for the British military at the end of World War II. It then became the robust yet elegant watch in the Omega repertoire. Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah was Kuwait’s frst Minister for Education afer independence in 1961. During his tenure, he led great educational and cultural reforms in the country, opening the frst National Museum and creating Kuwait’s frst university amongst others. The present hardly ever seen model impresses with its condition and rare and appealing combination of pink god case, black glossy dial and signature on the dial.
89.
A very attractive, oversized stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with multiple scales and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
Circa 1944
Reference No.
CK 987
Movement No.
9’597’461
Case No.
10’123’675
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 33.3 CHRO T5, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel grain of rice bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700
When thinking of iconic movements that made the history, the savvy collector will logically mention the Omega manual winding caliber 33.3 CHRO. Launched in 1933, the frst model using this caliber had only one apparent chronograph pusher while the second one was merged into the crown. In the late 1930s, Omega redesigned it to power some of their fnest two pusher chronographs. The present lot is ftted with a very attractive multiple scales dial. Apart from its iconic movement, the charisma of this extremely appealing watch lays in the patina displayed on the dial. With the efect of passing years, the watch face has turned to a warm almost yellow gold color. Some age spots, evenly spread on the surface further adorn the dial like stars in the sky. A strong case with sharp lugs and olive pushers secures this testimony of time like a frame protect a painting.
OMEGA Ref. CK987
90.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE – A fne and rare stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, alarm and date
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1970
Reference No.
E859
Movement No.
2’030’579
Case No.
1’253’196
Model Name
Memovox Polaris
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K825, 17 jewels, stamped VXN
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,100-18,100 €10,700-16,000 Accessories Accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre service certifcate dated January 27, 1999, original rubber strap, polishing cloth and document holder. Furthermore delivered with Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1970.
Introduced in 1950, the Memovox soon became one of the most desirable and reliable alarm wristwatches on the market thanks also to its ease of operation: the central disc allows to set the alarm time easily and swifly. Soon, given the growing popularity of recreative scuba diving, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s launched an oversized, automatic waterproof diver’s version of the Memovox: the Polaris. Their goal was to ofer both visual (inner bezel) and auditory (alarm) timers for ultimate diver safety. To do so, the frm created a patented caseback which optimized the alarm’s sound transmission under water. The outer case, with its 16 holes, allowed for the alarm tone to be heard and also felt on the wrist, while the inner case sealed and protected the movement. The watch featured three crowns, each with the cross hatch pattern characteristic of Super Compressor watches: the frst for time setting, the second to rotate the inner bezel for dive timing, and the third to rotate the inner disc with arrow to set the alarm. Known in the United States as the Polaris, and in the European market as the “Skin Diver Memovox”, the reference E859 was made in 1714 total examples. Considering the intensive use such timepieces were subjected to, it is safe to say that only a meager part of the production survived to this day in original condition making the present piece as rare as it is aesthetically pleasing and technically interesting.
91.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE – An exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel chronometer wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1958
Reference No.
E168
Movement No.
1’331’979
Case No.
748’201
Model Name
Chronometre Geophysic
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. P478BWSbr, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Original stainless steel Jaeger LeCoultre pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming production of the watch in 1958.
Possibly one of the fnest stainless steel Geophysics to ever appear on the auction market, the present watch was originally consigned by the family of the original owner when it frst appeared at auction. Ofered in unpolished condition, it most notably features a beautiful enamel medallion on the caseback along with an original Jaeger LeCoultre buckle, attesting to its appealing condition. Furthermore, all the luminous dots are present in the rehaut, showing the little, if any wear the watch has seen throughout its lifetime. Housing Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most prestigious chronometer movement available at the time, the Geophysic was made to withstand the elements. Launched in 1958, it was in production for one short year only. The model was made to celebrate two events. While its launch commemorated the 125th anniversary of the manufacture, it also marked the very frst International Geophysical Year. The Geophysic perfectly embodied the values of the International Geophysical Year (IGY) due to its antimagnetic, antishock and waterproof abilities. Scholarship suggests that no more than 1000 examples of the Geophysic model were ever produced.
92.
A very rare diver’s wristwatch with alarm function and box paired with matching number modern stainless steel wristwatch made to pay tribute to the model
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1959 and 2011
Reference No.
a) E857 b) JLQ 2028440
Movement No.
a) 1’300’315 b) 2’744’377
Case No.
a) 775’414 b) 77/359
Model Name
a) Memovox Deep Sea
Material
a) Stainless steel b) Stainless steel
b) Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea Calibre
a) Automatic, cal. K815, 17 jewels b) Automatic, cal. 956, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
a) Tropic b) Synthetic
Clasp/Buckle
a) Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
a) 39.5mm Diameter b) 41mm Diameter
b) Stainless steel pin buckle Signed
a) Case, dial and movement signed b) Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 45,000-65,000 $45,200-65,400 €40,000-57,800 Accessories a) Accompanied by the original LeCoultre presentation box with outer packaging and Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1959. b) Accompanied by the original Jaeger-LeCoultre presentation box with outer packaging, Guarantee dated November 7, 2011 and product literature.
Historically important and technically innovative for the time, the LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm was the frst automatic diver’s wristwatch with an alarm function, the purpose of which was to remind the diver to return to the surface before their oxygen ran out. Launched in 1959, it was only produced for 3 short years, leading to a total of 1,061 examples manufactured. Two variants were available: one signed “LeCoultre” for the American market, and the other with dial signed “JaegerLeCoultre” for the European market. Scholarship shows that the LeCoultre version, such as the present lot, is the rarest variant. From 1959 - the frst year of production, the watch is in fully original condition. The dial has beautifully aged and turned to warm shades of cappuccino brown. Further adding to the appeal of the present watch is the presence of its original inner and outer presentation boxes with the statement “The most exceptional watches and clocks in all the world”. In 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a tribute lineup to commemorate the original Deep Sea Alarm model, with, again, two iterations: one for the American market with 359 examples and one for the European market with 959 examples. The second watch of this set is part of the American market pieces, featuring the “Deep Sea Alarm Automatic,” designation above 6 o’clock and the “LeCoultre” under 12 o’clock on the dial. Most importantly, this watch is numbered 77/359 paying homage to the case number of its original model and is in unworn condition with box and original papers.
JAEGER LECOULTRE The Deep Sea Diver Set
93.
UNIVERSAL – A fne, large and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with luminous dial and additional time display
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1945
Reference No.
224’114
Movement No.
279’680
Case No.
1’245’374
Model Name
Aero-Compax
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 285, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300 Accessories Accompanied by Universal Genève Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1945
The generous 38mm diameter of this timepiece fully classifes it as one part of that rarefed category of vintage timepieces which stylistically resonates with contemporary taste. That is even more true when one considers the stainless steel case, luminous dial and exceptionally balanced dial layout. The present watch is an example of tool watches from the mid 20th century, a categorization which explains its large-for-thetime dimensions and the presence of the luminous dial, and is as aesthetically appealing as it is collectible. The additional dial at 12 0’ clock can be operated via the crown at 9 and displays a fxed time, intended to serve as a reminder to the wearer of the time of important occurrences (such as a take-of time).
94.
UNIVERSAL – A rare and superbly preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with silver and blue dial, additional service bezel and box
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1971
Reference No.
885’107
Case No.
2’892’624
Model Name
Compax “Exotic Nina”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 72/Universal Genève 85,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
17 jewels Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,100-18,100 €10,700-16,000 Accessories Accompanied by the original presentation box, an additional dark blue service bezel and Universal Genève Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1971
In the late 1960s, Nina Rindt, the wife of the famous Formula One driver, Jochen Rindt, became a Universal Genève icon afer she was photographed on the race track wearing a “Panda” black and white Compax on a Bund style strap. Embodying the elegance and cool cat attitude, her name was consequently used to nickname the white and black reverse example: “Evil Nina” and the more original blue or silver version the “Exotic Nina”.
In November 2018, we had the privilege to auction a blue “Exotic Nina” and we are equally pleased now to present its silver sibling. A subtle mix of brushed silver and matt grey central portion, blue subdials and outer track, red fve minute markers, and chronograph hand give the watch a most surprising and arresting visual appeal. This silver version is completed with an “Air Force blue” color bezel identifed as being the color of the sky on a clear day. Thanks to researches with the Universal Genève archives department, we are able to confrm that this specifc bezel color was specially made and only ftted on the two “Exotic Nina” references 885.107 and 885.108. The watch is nevertheless accompanied by an additional dark blue service bezel. In absolutely superb condition with a strong case, crisp engraved numbers on the caseback and immaculate dial, this watch presents a rare opportunity to purchase a beautiful watch that is fast becoming an iconic vintage chronograph.
95.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive anti-magnetic stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1987
Reference No.
1019
Movement No.
M’023’284
Case No.
R’458’898
Model Name
Milgauss
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195 mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 O $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, wallet and ftted presentation box.
The Milgauss is the result of a direct collaboration between Rolex and the Geneva-based nuclear-research organization, CERN - Centre Européen de Recherche Nucléaire (European Organization for Nuclear Research). Their aim was to develop a wristwatch that could withstand intense magnetic felds and thus be worn by the CERN engineers and laboratory workers constantly in highly magnetic environments. Reference 1019 was introduced to the market as the successor of reference 6541 and 6543. While the new Milgauss retained its Faraday Cage in order to protect the movement from electromagnetic waves, the model also featured a fresh and modern update to its appearance such as a smooth bezel and modifed dial layout. Ofered with its original guarantee, this watch is preserved in excellent condition with sharp bevels and crisp edges. Furthermore, the luminous on both the hands and numerals have aged evenly to a wonderful ivory tone.
96.
ROLEX – An extremely attractive stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1964
Reference No.
1019 caseback further stamped 1.64
Movement No.
D84’920
Case No.
1’065’404
Model Name
Milgauss
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1580, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, end links stamped 580, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200
Rolex has long been associated with “tool” wristwatches, which originally were designed with a functional purpose in mind. From their collaboration with Pan American Airways for the GMT-Master dual time zone wristwatch, to the Submariner watch for professional deep-sea divers, these timepieces have captured the imagination of collectors and are today highly sought afer in the international market. The Milgauss, reference 1019, is another example of a Rolex sports model that today enjoys considerable prestige beyond its original intent.
Originally released in 1954, the Milgauss reference 6541 was designed to meet the needs of scientists and engineers working in a magnetic environment. Rolex worked in collaboration with the Conseil Européen de Recherche Nucléaire (CERN), to develop an inside Faraday Cage that would allow the watch to withstand up to 1000 Gauss of magnetism. Hence its name: “Mille Gauss” meaning a thousand Gauss in French. Along with its companion piece the reference 6543, the two remained in production until the beginning of the 1960s when Rolex released the reference 1019. The new reference featured a fresh and modern update to its appearance such as a smooth bezel and a modifed dial layout. Early models, like the present one would have square luminous dots and luminous indexes at 3,6 and 9 as well as 1/5 hash markers around the dial. Only later examples would feature 1/2 hash marks. Reference 1019 was available with a silver or matte black dial, and ceased production around 1990. Furthermore, this watch presents an extremely rare -T Swiss T- dial indicating the use of Tritium as a luminous material. At the time of production, the reference was not particularly successful and production numbers were low. The model is highly sought afer today due to its rarity.
97.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, made for the Peruvian Air Force
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’419’339 inside caseback further stamped 339
Model Name
Cosmograph “Fuerza Aérea del Perú”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 371, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $40,200-60,300 €35,600-53,400
Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Rolex received a number of orders for issued timepieces. These tool watches were ofen delivered to the military and displayed certain modifed specifcations. The Peruvian Air Force ordered a number of Daytona watches during this period for high ranking members of the military. Having resided in a private collection for many years, this reference 6239 is one such special issued watch. The caseback is engraved “Fuerza Aérea del Perú”. There is a small hole on the outer case back, near the ‘teeth’. This hole was used to secure the case back while Rolex stamped the markings. Most importantly, the inside case back is stamped with the last three digits of the serial number, which was a military specifcation. This timepiece is preserved in overall excellent condition with crisp fnishes to the top of the lugs and overall robust proportions.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph “Fuerza Aérea del Perú”
98.
A very rare and highly attractive platinum Arabic calendar wristwatch with Eastern Arabic numerals and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2016
Reference No.
228206
Case No.
Z’29K2’653
Model Name
Day-Date 40
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3255, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex concealed folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500
Rolex has created some of the most surprising, beautiful and unusual Day-Dates for the Arab States in the Gulf. The manufacture’s custom pieces date back to the 1950s, when Rolex ftted Arabic discs to the most luxurious Day-Date watches. Very few “Arabic” Day-Dates were produced during this period, and the earliest examples were almost exclusively cased in platinum.
With the introduction of reference 1804, Rolex produced a Day-Date that completely difered from any “Arabic” Day-Date the frm had ever produced. The watch not only featured an Arabic Day and Date wheel, it even displayed applied Eastern Arabic numerals in lieu of regular Arabic numbers. The watch is named “Scheherazade”, and proudly displayed in Day-Date, The Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo and sold at Phillips’ Glamorous Day-Date sale, lot 24. Today, Rolex continues to dazzle and surprise, with its unusual and beautifully fnished watches. It cultivates and sustains its successful relationship with the Arab States by producing a multitude of special order watches for the region. The present example, produced in exceedingly limited numbers and sold only by Middle East retailers, pays homage to the dazzling Arabic Day-Dates of the 1970s, most notably in its applied Eastern Arabic numerals, which is almost identical in design to the beloved vintage Arabic Day-Dates of the past. The watch is cased in platinum, a further nod to the original Day-Dates made for the region. A few updates make this watch an exceedingly modern and fresh watch. The most obvious, is the ice blue dial, which Rolex exclusively uses to complement its platinum watches. Its 40 millimeter case has great presence on the wrist, and gives the watch incredible weight, truly attesting to Rolex’s ingenuity. This watch is presented in virtually new condition with its stickers still intact.
ROLEX Day-Date 40 “Eastern Arabic Numerals”
99.
A very fne, extremely rare, and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6262; inside caseback stamped 6239
Case No.
2’379’270
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $101,000-201,000 €89,000-178,000 Literature For a similar example of a Rolex reference 6262 with exotic dial, please see Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 276-279.
Carefully looked afer by the original owner for nearly half a century, and then passed to his daughter, the current reference 6262 with beautifully preserved “Paul Newman” dial is a testament to one man’s impeccable taste and careful stewardship. Rather than the tri-color dial ofen seen on references 6239 and 6241 as well as some references 6262 and 6264, this slightly later example boasts the coveted Paul Newman “Panda” dial, with a bi-color layout – the only red being the “Daytona” text above the hour counter. Together with reference 6264, ftted with a black acrylic bezel, the metal bezel reference 6262 was the last Rolex chronograph watch to be ftted with pump pushers. Reference 6240, 6263 and 6265 all feature water resistant screw down pushers. While aesthetically similar to its predecessor reference 6239, reference 6262 was ftted with the upgraded Valjoux movement caliber 727, replacing the previous caliber 722-1. One minor aesthetic diference can be found in the slight architectural redesign of the lugs on the 6262 versus the earlier 6239 – they are slightly more elongated. A fner example of an extremely rare reference, consigned by the daughter of the original owner, will be most difcult to fnd ever again.
ROLEX Ref. 6262 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
100.
A fne and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, unnumbered guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1982
Reference No.
6263
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, ca. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “571” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “H” and “78350”
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by unnumbered Rolex Guarantee, sale tag, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 6263 can be arguably considered the most iconic of the manually-wound Daytona models. Launched in the early 1970s and in production until 1987, it is defned by the screw pushers and the bezel with black acrylic insert. Such confguration has proven so timeless that the new Daytona model released in 2017 amply borrows its case/bezel design indeed from ref. 6263. The present specimen is defned by its “Big Red” dial. The fnal evolution of the manual Daytona dial, it is found on the last specimen of reference 6263 (and its metal-bezel brethren 6265) and is characterized by a very prominent Daytona designation above the 6 o’ clock subsidiary dial in bright red ink. The present specimen is blessed with what can be considered a virtually fawless dial, and the condition of the case perfectly match that of the face: extremely sharp and well preserved with only minor signs of wear.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
101.
A rare and extremely well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with aubergine “tropical” registers
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1977
Reference No.
6263
Movement No.
1254
Case No.
5’126’721
Model Name
Cosmograph
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 O $101,000-201,000 €89,000-178,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex blank guarantee. Literature “The Krug” is prominently illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pages 444 to 447. Provenance Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, Christie’s Geneva November 10, 2013: Lot 29.
Displaying a 5.126 million serial number, this wonderfully preserved reference 6263 has most likely never been polished, propelling it into the most impressive levels of collectibility. Its exceptional state of preservation is further underlined by the presence of the original Rolex sticker, which is still partially present on the case back. The combination of green case back sticker, brown registers and gold livery has inspired this watch’s nickname “The Krug”. Its provenance is particularly impressive, having been sold at “Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch.” Furthermore, “The Krug” is prominently illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, page 444 to 447. This reference 6263 most notably features a dial displaying “Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed”. During the early 1970s, Rolex began to submit their yellow gold Cosmographs for chronometer certifcation. While the very frst examples displayed an “Oyster Split” designation, later examples, such as this particular confguration displayed the COSC designation directly below “Rolex Oyster”. Adding to its charm and desirability, these subsidiary registers have started to become tropical and are turning a deep aubergine tone.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Oyster Cosmograph “The Krug”
102.
A very fne, extremely rare, and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, original box and papers, retailed by Bucherer
Consigned by the original owner and accompanied by all its original paperwork, including the guarantee certifcate and sales receipt from Bucherer in Lucerne, this piece exemplifes why the Oyster “Paul Newman” has become one of the world’s most highly sought afer timepieces. Its rarity can only be matched by its good looks and complete nature – sure to pass the test of even the most assiduous collector. The present reference 6263 features a “Panda” MK 2 dial. Paul Newman dials that feature a white dial with black subdials are referred to as “Panda” as they mimic the color scheme of the face of the much-beloved bear. These Paul Newman “Pandas” generally feature four subtly diferent dial confgurations in accordance to the serial number, the MK2 being a version with beautifully sharp serifs on all the letters. The dial excels in all aspects: the perfect golden beige lume plots match the luminous material of the handset and the Art Deco numerals within the subdials are printed boldly against subtle, sublime concentric circles.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman Panda MK2 Dial”
102.
A very fne, extremely rare, and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, original box and papers, retailed by Bucherer
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
6263; inside caseback stamped 6262
Case No.
3’048’245
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman Panda”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 271, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.72
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000 $302,000-603,000 €267,000-534,000 Accessories Accompanied by original guarantee dated 22 May 1974, sales receipt from Bucherer, product literature, ftted inner box, and outer box. Additionally accompanied by extra links. Literature A similar example of a stainless steel reference 6263 “Paul Newman Panda” is illustrated in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pages 348 and 349.
One of the most intriguing aspects of the extremely collectible Daytonas ftted with an exotic dial are the unusual Art Deco numerals located within the subdials. The Art Deco movement reached its heyday in the 1930s but has been stylistically pervasive through to the present day. Iconic Art Deco logos that have persisted include that of Harper’s Bazaar and Yves Saint Laurent’s monogram. Geometric, stark lines that are the hallmark of the Art Deco style are thought to have been inspired by two cultural movements of the early twentieth century – Egyptomania, the world’s fascination with Ancient Egypt, and the dawn of the Machine Age, inspiring more futuristic and industrial designs. It is no wonder that as an attempt to commercialize and boost sales of the manually wound Daytona, Rolex chose to incorporate such a striking and futuristic design element.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman Panda MK2 Dial”
103.
An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch “Khanjar” dial and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman accompanied by a gold and diamond set Corum wristwatch
Proudly exalted in the upper centre of the dial of this 18 karat yellow gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a black “Khanjar” - Oman’s national emblem, composed of a dagger in sheath superimposed upon two crossed swords. Such time-keepers were made on commission for the Sultan of Oman, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. Presented as gifs to foreign dignitaries, closest ofcials and, as in this example, loyal staf, many of the “Khanjar” marked watches are cherished by their original owners and passed from one generation to the next. We are proud to ofer, on behalf of the family of the Omani Royal Yacht Squadron’s former captain, a unique lot composed of a yellow gold Rolex 6265 and a yellow gold and diamond Corum Admiral’s Cup. Following a highly distinguished career in the British Royal Navy, the owner of this watch lef for Oman in the 1970s to assume command of His Majesty’s Royal Yacht Squadron, a position he held for more than a decade. During his time in Oman, the Captain and the Sultan formed an excellent relationship, sharing a passion for opera. This new career gave the opportunity to the Captain to settle and spend many memorable years in Oman with his wife.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 “Black Khanjar for Fleet Captain�
The accessories presented here are for display and are not part of the lot.
103.
An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch “Khanjar” dial and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman accompanied by a gold and diamond set Corum wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
circa 1978
Reference No.
6265
Movement No.
1’274
Case No.
5’060’075
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold riveted Oyster bracelet measuring 210mm max. Endlinks stamped 71.
Clasp/Buckle
18k deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 250,000-450,000 $251,000-452,000 €222,000-400,000
This watch is a fresh to market, highly original example of a desirable yellow gold Ref.6265. A timepiece of such originality combined with a very personal history makes it a potential jewel in any collection, especially of vintage Daytonas. It was gifed by His Majesty the Sultan of Oman as a mark of gratitude for the Captain’s service. The timepiece has been cherished and was worn only on special occasions, such as the original owner’s 50th wedding anniversary. The “Khanjar” mark supplants the traditional “4-Lines” found under the 12 o’clock marker, leaving the famous crown logo alone on top of the Omani mark. The black colour of the emblazoned symbol perfectly complements the sporty yet elegant black sub-dials, making the bicoloured champagne and black dial stand out even more. At the dial’s bottom, towards the 6 o’clock mark, the desirable sigma designations fanking the “T SWISS T” (tritium Lumes) are found, signifying the use of gold for the hour markers. The case is found in wonderful condition with strong lugs and crisp proportions, demonstrating how rarely the watch has been worn. Their royal provenance, condition, history, and originality make these timepieces a truly unique opportunity.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 “Black Khanjar for Fleet Captain”
Vacheron Constantin
“Do better if possible and that is always possible.” It is exactly 200 years ago that François-Constantin wrote these seminal words to his associate Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron, the grandson of the founder and they have shaped the brand’s DNA and philosophy of work ever since. In 1755, a 20 year old Jean-Marc Vacheron borrowed a few silver coins to set up his workshop in the heart of Geneva with the intention of creating watches of the utmost quality. However, it wasn’t until the arrival of François Constantin, an astute businessman, in 1819 that the company changed its name to Vacheron & Constantin and opened new markets within Europe, the New World and Asia.
Another partnership with a genius engineer, GeorgesAugust Leschot in 1839, ofered brand new production techniques for Vacheron Constantin. Leschot revolutionised watchmaking methods by designing new tools, including a pantograph to centre and drill holes in the baseplates and bridges of movements. This made possible the manufacture of interchangeable parts which enabled the company to raise the quality of its watches. Considered one of the most prestigious of watch brands, Vacheron Constantin from the start has always infused its watchmaking with the fnest decorations, may it be lavish engravings or delicate enamels, hence achieving a perfect balance between horology and art.
With the onset of 20th century and its ensuing industrialization, the brand continued to embrace its heritage of traditional workmanship while continually experimenting with artistic designs and innovative complications; their bold and refned creations attracting orders from royalties, entrepreneurs and collectors from around the world.
Jean-Marc Vacheron
François Constantin
Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watch manufacturer in continuous operation, has been bedazzling collectors and “Vacheronistas” for over 260 years. Continuing with its long tradition of bespoke orders, the world-renowned brand shook the horological world in 2015 when it presented the reference 57260, a custom piece that had taken close to 10 years to create and was then, and still remains, the most complicated watch ever made with 57 complications, many of which were world premières! There is a je ne sais quoi in vintage Vacheron Constantin designs that make them perfectly contemporary while still refecting the era they were made in. In homage to the watchmaking excellence of Vacheron Constantin, we are delighted to ofer in the following section a carefully curated selection of timepieces refecting the brand’s refned, playful, sophisticated and inimitable designs and its unsurpassable crafsmanship, the star lot being of course a bespoke timepiece, started in 1935, featuring a minute repeater, day indication and retrograde date and which, like its successor the reference 57260, was then amongst the world’s most groundbreaking timepieces.
104.
A fne and very rare yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and black lacquer dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1948
Reference No.
4240
Movement No.
457’970
Case No.
294’178
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. V495, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1948.
Vacheron Constantin has a long history of producing calendar watches. Its frst identifed complicated timepiece is a full calendar from 1790, and Vacheron Constantin made unique pieces during the following centuries. However, it was not until the launch of reference 4240 in 1942 that the full calendar entered the brand’s catalogue as a complication produced in series.
The present reference 4240 is an incredible rarity as it is the only example known with black glossy dial and gilt printing. The gilt text shines through beautifully, the copper tone adding depth and charisma to the dial. The present watch displays a very attractive 35mm diameter yellow gold futed case with wonderful downturned claw lugs. The red day and month are indicated via apertures and the date via a central hand. The case has developed a purplish hue due to oxidation, demonstrating the fact that the watch has not been worn for quite some time. The reference 4240 is one of the few vintage wristwatch designs by the frm featuring a triple calendar function, which was available with or without moonphase display. Because of its iconic status, the reference 4240 was relaunched in 2017 by Vacheron Constantin, in two versions again, with or without moonphase display. The combination of ultra-rare black dial and superbly preserved condition make the present Vacheron Constantin a tribute to the brand’s technical and artistic creativity, and is a must-have in the collection of every Vacheronista.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 4240 “Black Glossy Dial”
105.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A fne, rare and unusual yellow gold wristwatch with guilloché dial and crab lugs
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1950
Reference No.
4659
Movement No.
478’604
Case No.
319’365
Model Name
Crab Lugs
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. P453/3C, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1950.
The two decades stretching between the 1950s and 1960s are an extremely prolifc period for watchmaking design. One notices a strong trend toward dials featuring less and less graphic elements in favor of unusual textures, colors and materials. The case design as well follows a similar road with architectures based on - sometimes - very elaborate shapes. The present watch fully exemplifes this trend in both case and dial. The latter is indeed without virtually any graphic element other than the signature and the second divisions in the subdial. It is however decorated with a very elaborate guilloché decor, long baton, short baton and Arabic numerals in gold, and outer beady minute divisions also in gold. The case features an equally interesting design, most notable for the highly prominent fancy lugs which vaguely resemble a crab claw and give the name to this reference: Crab Lugs. Ofered in remarkable condition, the present piece is a perfect example of 1950s watchmaking design which will not fail to surprise and impress the connoisseur of vintage watches.
106.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A rare and very attractive square-shaped yellow gold wristwatch with fancy lugs and beautiful double guilloché dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1951
Reference No.
4657
Movement No.
494’613
Case No.
321’026
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 477/1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
30.5 x 30.5mm
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming year of production of the present watch in 1951.
Reference 4657 is a superb example of how the famed Geneva brand manages to create timepieces that delightfully balance classicism with famboyance.
Doing away with the somewhat Barroque designs of the past, the reference 4657 is a perfect example of a study in “no frills” design yet its cavalcade of strong lines and gentle curves give the present lot immense personality. The majority of reference 4657 models that have appeared on the market were ftted with simple guilloché dials, whereas in the present example, the guilloché dial is a potent and dramatic blend of horizontal lines and basket weave patterns. The movement housed in this watch is Vacheron Constantin’s original bumper wind automatic caliber 477 – a charismatic and delightful movement used by the brand for a short time during the 1950s. Presented in unpolished, outstanding condition it’s a superb example of an oversized Vacheron Constantin watch with a strong design and rare movement that would ft perfectly in any collection.
107.
A very rare and beautiful yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Gay Frères bracelet, original box and guarantee retailed by Türler
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1952
Reference No.
4178
Movement No.
466’746
Case No.
329’017
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 492, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold Gay Frères bracelet max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold deployant clasp stamped 4.52
Dimensions
36mm Diamter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, bracelet clasp further stamped GF
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $30,200-60,300 €26,700-53,400 Accessories Accompanied by original ftted box, original guarantee dated 8 May, 1954 and Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming the production of this watch in 1952.
The apposition of the retailer’s name on the dial of a watch was a privilege given to the most important and prestigious retailers of a brand, increasing the rarity and desirability of the watch. Whereas with Patek Philippe and Rolex, the other two great Geneva based brands, watches with double signatures do show up on the international auction market from time to time, it seems that Vacheron Constantin was more reserved in this type of co-branding.
This is why the present reference 4178, with the Türler signature, is such a rare piece. The rarity and appeal of this gorgeous chronograph are further enhanced by the original Gay Frères gold bracelet, stamped 4.52 corresponding to the date of manufacture of the watch, as well as the presence of its original box and papers from Türler confrming the sale of the watch with gold bracelet. Türler is a Swiss-based, family-owned, jewelry and watch retailer founded in 1883 selling some of the most prestigious watch brands. Considered by scholars and collectors as one of the most beautiful vintage chronographs, the Vacheron Constantin reference 4178 entices with its perfect proportions, balanced design and signature facetted lugs. In production from 1940 until 1964 reference 4178 was made in yellow gold, pink gold, steel and a mix of steel and gold with a variety of diferent dial designs. There is a certain romanticism about vintage timepieces because they each tell a story. The present watch has the date 8 Mai (May in German) 1954 engraved on the caseback (which is the date of purchase), was it a wedding gif, a birthday present or a date celebrating an important milestone? This will remain a mystery but exactly 65 years and almost to the exact date this rare and attractive watch will join a new collection where it will certainly occupy a place of honor.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 4178 “Türler”
108.
An extremely fne, rare and attractive pink gold triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases, Italian calendar and claw lugs
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1949
Reference No.
4461
Movement No.
463’573
Case No.
307’770
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. V485, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1949.
Vacheron Constantin production has historically been extremely limited. For example, it is estimated that the yearly overall production for the brand in the 1950s and 60s was about 300 pieces. Such a small output is justifed by the extremely high standards of fnishing and decorating the company has always abided by: afer all, it is considered among the greatest watchmaking brands for a reason.
The combination of very high quality and small production means that coming across such remarkable horological gems as the present timepiece in such an honest and well-preserved condition is extremely difcult. The timepiece represents one of the early calendar wristwatches made by Vacheron Constantin: it is a very classic triple calendar with moonphases, defned by the windows for day and month (in Italian) at 12 o’ clock and an outer track for the date read by a central hand. This layout was typical of the mid-twentieth century and imbues the timepiece with both an outstanding vintage vibe and absolute readability. The model is housed in a pink gold case, a very scarce iteration of an already rare model, and it features one of the most typical Vacheron Constantin design traits: the large sculpted lugs known as “claw” or “Cornes de Vache” (cow’s horns) lugs. Incorporating design elements typical both of the period and also of the brand, ofered in extremely honest and wellpreserved condition, and of utmost scarcity, the present timepiece is without a doubt an unmissable opportunity for the collector of rare vintage timepieces.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 4461 Pink Gold
109.
A spectacular, unique and historically important yellow gold minute repeater wristwatch with day, retrograde date and original unrestored extra dial
Certain watches have been so relevant, historically important and inspiring that they have come to be referred to by the name of their owners. May they have been royalty: King Farouk (Vacheron Constantin), Marie Antoinette (Breguet), businessmen: Henry Graves Jr. and James Packard (Patek Philippe) or celebrities such as Paul Newman (Rolex) or Elvis Presley (Omega). This elite circle will soon be joined by the present (Vacheron Constantin) “Don Pancho”. The World of Vacheron Constantin by Carole Lambelet and Lorette Coen published in 1992 was seminal not only as the frst book dedicated to the oldest watch brand in continuous operation, it is also pivotal for its revelation of a horological myth and fantasy. A small black and white photo placed amongst dozens of other on page 404 ignited an amazing frenzy of conversations, questions and debates among collectors and scholars. Pictured in this archival photograph was a tonneau watch dated 1936 with crown at twelve o’clock and featuring a day indication at six o’clock, a retrograde date and displaying a minute repeating trigger placed unusually on the right side of the case and only identifed by its archive photo number: 3620.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN “Don Pancho”
109.
A spectacular, unique and historically important yellow gold minute repeater wristwatch with day, retrograde date and original unrestored extra dial
A shroud of mystery surrounded what was most probably one of the most complicated wristwatches ever produced at that time. The name Brooking Madrid was printed on the dial, a retailer that had gone out of business decades before, and no one at Vacheron Constantin had ever seen the watch nor knew about its whereabouts. This watch had turned into a legend that every horological grail collector, scholar and enthusiast wanted to pursue but could not as its very existence was untraceable…. until now. Over 25 years afer the publication of The World of Vacheron Constantin, Phillips fnally brings this masterpiece to the public as we have been conferred the privilege of ofering what is most certainly the most valuable, historically signifcant and rarest of Vacheron Constantin wristwatches. In the following pages, you will witness some of frst and only colour images of this legendary watch ever published. Even more mind boggling is the fact that less than 10 people have even seen the watch in the fesh at the time this catalogue is going to print. In December 1935, Vacheron Constantin received a letter from Madrid-based retailer Brooking who, on behalf of a client, wished to commission a watch in a large two tone tonneau case featuring calendar and moonphase indicators as well as a minute repeater. The dial was to include at least 11 easily legible and radium flled numerals. Ensued a creative ping pong between the patron, Francisco Martinez Llano, a highly successful Spanish businessman – via Brooking – and Vacheron Constantin. The former had a very precise idea of what he wanted: a large yellow gold tonneau case, crown at twelve, minute repeater with the lowest possible notes, repeater trigger on the right side of the case, day, retrograde date, his initials in blue enamel on the caseback, two dials, one with enamelled black Breguet numerals and the other with radium numerals, both with all twelve numerals, and 6 straps which are easily changeable! The creation of this masterpiece was a combined efort among Switzerland’s greatest crafsmen who had worked on some of the most complicated watches to have been produced: the repeating mechanism being assigned to Nicole, the calendar to Victorin Piguet and the dial to Stern Frères. Interestingly, the size of the dial being too small to ft the Arabic numerals in full as well as all calendar functions, the client chose practicality and opted to have the day and date only and to make do without the month indication. For ease of use, Victorin Piguet modifed the perpetual calendar module to a simple calendar with semi instantaneous jumping date.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN “Don Pancho”
109.
A spectacular, unique and historically important yellow gold minute repeater wristwatch with day, retrograde date and original unrestored extra dial
The watch was fnally delivered in January 1940 – with only one radium dial – to Don Pancho, as Francisco Martinez Llano was afectionately called by his friends. Don Pancho had lef his native Spain in the late 19th century for Latin America where he made his fortune in mining in Chile. He was a philanthropist and a benefactor whose self-imposed mission was to bring education to poorer families by funding schools both in Spain (where he received recognition from Alphonso XIII, King of Spain) and Chile. Following his passing away in 1947, the watch remained in a vault for 60 plus years before it was rediscovered by his family. The years spent in the hot and humid climates of Latin America had lef their traces on this timepiece. As a result, the original dial showed substantial ageing and the movement needed complete restauration. It is at this point that Vacheron Constantin’s expertise and talented watchmakers re-joined the adventurous journey of this timepiece. The watch was lef in the caring hands of its maker with the instruction to restore the movement using as much as possible original components, not to polish the case and to create a second dial, identical to the original one with the techniques used in the 1930s, with the only exception being the use of modern luminous material as opposed to radium. The original unrestored dial is also ofered with this watch. For months, a team from the Heritage department worked relentlessly to uncover all archival material available and a team of watchmakers was dedicated to bringing this watch to its former glory and the fnal result is nothing short of astounding. This timepiece is both a genuine horological prowess where the watchmakers managed to miniaturize such a complex mechanism to be housed in a wristwatch – at a period where complications were still reserved for pocket watches – and a gem of horological design with its large case, taut lines, angular lugs and superbly balanced dial, and the large Arabic numerals further enhancing the dial’s unbeatable panache and dynamism.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN “Don Pancho”
109.
A spectacular, unique and historically important yellow gold minute repeater wristwatch with day, retrograde date and original unrestored extra dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1940
Movement No.
353’577
Case No.
260’522
Model Name
“Don Pancho”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin
Dimensions
42mm Length, 28mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
buckle (modern)
Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 ∆ $402,000-804,000 €356,000-712,000 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certifcate of Authenticity confrming production of this model in 1940, original unrestored extra dial and further accompanied by duplicatas of archival documents and sketches.
The historical importance of the present timepiece cannot be emphasized sufciently. Made during an era where multi-complicated wristwatches simply did not exist, it was a technical feat and masterpiece of human genius. The combination of a minute repeater and calendar with retrograde date were never seen before in a wristwatch and we had to wait close to 60 years to see anything similar. The present Vacheron Constantin is ofered with its original unrestored dial as well as duplicate documents and various sketches from the Vacheron Constantin archives retracing the evolution of the watch from original order to completion. Three wristwatches featuring calendar indications and a minute repeating mechanism made before the end of the 1940s are known today: a Patek Philippe that is today in the Patek Philippe Museum, the James Schultz made circa 1930 that is today in an important private collection, and the present Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho”. This is therefore the ONLY occasion for the avid collector-scholar to obtain such a rare and historically important timepiece as there will simply be no other future opportunity. We would like to extend our gratitude to Vacheron Constantin for helping to research this historical timepiece and opening their archives for us.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN “Don Pancho”
Session two 12 May 2019, 5pm Lots 110–220
110.
BREGUET – A fne and attractive semi skeletonized yellow gold wristwatch with power reserve
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
Circa 2008
Reference No.
7027
Movement No.
0’500’290
Case No.
3’223
Model Name
Tradition
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal 507DR, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-10,000 $7,000-10,100 €6,200-8,900 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet ftted box.
Launched in 2005, the Tradition, contrary to its name was a very avant garde and fresh take on Abraham-Louis Breguet’s legacy. Inspired by the movement architecture of Breguet’s Souscription watches of the late 18th century, this 21st century homage gives center stage to the movements of yesteryear by placing what is habitually on the back, on the dial side. The dial side reveals the escapement, a large part of the gear train and the mainspring barrel all with a gilt fnish reminiscent of the original Breguet movements. A power reserve indication is elegantly placed on the back. A wonderfully elegant timepiece, the Tradition manages the perfect balance of creating an homage piece while remaining creative and extremely modern.
111.
PATEK PHILIPPE – A fne stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2007
Reference No.
5065A-001
Movement No.
3’614’624
Case No.
4’346’944
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe concealed double
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by Patek Philippe Salons de Geneve and dated July 7, 2007, additional rubber strap with double deployant clasp, product literature, leather wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe has only ever made two sports watches: the Nautilus and the Aquanaut. Both share a number of signature design elements implemented in Gerald Genta’s original design, including a rounded octagonal bezel with a brushed surface and polished, bevelled edges.
But with the Aquanaut, Patek Philippe also introduced several new features that would attract a younger consumer base to the brand and consecrate the then revolutionary pairing of rubber straps with luxury sports watches. Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut presented a new more casual alternative to the Nautilus. Initially limited to 1,000 pieces, in gold and stainless steel, the Aquanaut was put into regular production with the release of the reference 5065A. Nicknamed the ‘Jumbo’ because of its large, 37mm case diameter, the new Aquanaut revealed the once concealed self-winding calibre 315 SC through a sapphire display caseback. The present, early reference 5065/1A-001 is unlike any of the future models. It is the only variant of the reference ever sold as a package that included both the rubber composite strap and steel bracelet, an option much loved. Even for a casual, sporty wristwatch, signifcant planning and attention to detail went into the design for the Aquanaut. The embossed, oversized guilloché dial is reminiscent of the brick design of both the steel bracelet and the rubber strap. Signifcantly more luminous material is used on the dial of the Aquanaut in comparison to the Nautilus, and the hands and indexes are consequently thicker. Preserved in exceptional condition for almost two decades, and accompanied by all of its original accessories, the opportunity to own this very rare and original Aquanaut “Jumbo” is one not to be missed.
112.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive white gold chronograph wristwatch with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2002
Reference No.
116519
Movement No.
C0’068’715
Case No.
Y’326’161
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 O $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee August 25, 2003, numbered sales tag, product literature, original sales tag and green presentation box.
Ofered in unpolished condition with its Rolex sticker still intact, this Cosmograph Daytona is cased in white gold, adding a luxurious twist to the iconic sports model. It houses the caliber 4130, which was Rolex’s very frst in-house automatic movement. In contrast, its predecessor, reference 16519 was powered by the Zenith caliber 4030. The watch is ofered with its all original accessories such as the numbered sales tag, guarantee stating the watch was retailed at Georg Kittel, Aurich, product literature and presentation box.
113.
ROLEX – A very attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with bracelet, box and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1989
Reference No.
16710
Movement No.
5’593’981
Case No.
L604’278
Model Name
GMT-Master II
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3185, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, end links stamped 501B, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp,
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
reference 62523 H 18
Estimate CHF 6,000-8,000 $6,000-8,000 €5,300-7,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box with outer packaging, punched guarantee, leather wallet, product literature and service paper dated 2017
The Rolex GMT-Master II revolutionized the original GMT. The model was ftted with a new calibre that allowed the user to quickly adjust the hour hand forward or backwards in one hour jumps. When the hour is adjusted, the minute hand continues to run, which increases the efciency of the watch and its accuracy. In 1983, the frst GMT Master II was the reference 16760 aka “the Fat Lady” that was replaced in 1989 by the present reference 16710 sporting a slimmer case. The reference was available with three bezel variations: the Coke bezel (black and red), the All Black bezel and the most sought afer Pepsi, blue and red bezel, like the present example. Presented today in excellent overall condition, the watch comes complete with its box, original punched guarantee and product literature. This versatile watch with a strong and very recognizable design and color scheme is the perfect watch to be worn as a sports watch but will also add style to any formal wear.
114.
A fne and very rare stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with tropical chapter rings, bracelet, guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1994
Reference No.
16520
Case No.
S’414’587
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “503 B” and “78390” to the endlinks, max. length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“S 12” and “78390”
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee dated February 1994 and presentation box with outer packaging.
When released in 1987, reference 16520 marked the frst foray of Rolex into the realm of automatic chronograph wristwatches. The success of the model was overwhelming, and it helped spark the interest of the collecting community even for its manual ancestors.
Today, a serious Rolex collection can not be considered complete without an example of the “Zenith” Daytona (so called because the automatic calibre was supplied by Zenith and then modifed and fnished by Rolex), and the model is constantly increasing in popularity. Over time, scholarship on the reference has expanded, and some iterations - such as the “Floating” ones, or the porcelain dials, or the “Four Liners” - have come to be recognized as supremely collectible timepieces. The most visually striking among these “next level” Zenith Daytonas is arguably the “tropical” variation, perfectly exemplifed by the present timepiece. The result of defective batches of paint delivered to Rolex in the mid-1990s, these timepieces sport white chapter rings which over time turned brown. The process - and its result - is infuenced by a multitude of factors, such as the batch of paint, the exposure of the dial to light, and so on. Thus, the fnal result is unique for each piece, with sometimes, such as in this instance, striking surprises. The chapter ring of this specimen in fact tropicalized unevenly and today they feature an incredible “tie-dye” efect to the tropicalization. Such an unusual and attractive dial, combined with the presence of the original box and Guarantee of the watch and its overall superb state of conservation, renders the present timepiece one of the most collectible and fascinating examples of tropical 16520 to ever grace an auction room.
ROLEX Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical”
115.
GÉRALD GENTA – A fne and unusual red gold calendar wristwatch with retrograde minutes, digital hours, Certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Gérald Genta
Year
2005
Reference No.
OBR.Y.50.510.CN.BD
Case No.
118’716
Model Name
Octo Biretro
Material
18K red gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. GG7722, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K red gold Gerald Genta deployant clasp
Dimensions
42.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 ∙ ∑ $5,000-8,000 €4,400-7,100 Accessories Accompanied by Gerald Genta Warranty booklet stamped by Kuwait retailer Ghadah Jewellery and Gifs and dated January 11, 2005, Certifcate of Origin stamped by retailer and dated January 11, 2005, service card dated April 22, 2009, instruction booklet, leather document holder, ftted wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Indisputably one of the driving forces of 20th century watch design, Gerald Genta is the mind behind timeless creations such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus, before starting his own company.
Such daring approach to watch design is the “fl rouge” which connects the entire Genta production, as perfectly exemplifed by the present creation. The case architecture is enormously complex, based on octagonal and circular shapes and multiple steps and tiers. The dial design follow suits both in the chromatic choices opting for a very bold red, black and white palette - and in its overall design: date and minutes are displayed in retrograde fashion, allowing for the presence of two extremely pleasing fan-shaped arcs, while the hours are intriguingly displayed via a jumping digital indication visible through a window at 12 o’clock. The inner red decor once again is octagonal, a shape which apparently Genta was fascinated by and can be found in many of his creations. Ofered by the original owner and preserved in virtually “asnew” condition, the present watch represents an unmissable occasion for the collector of unusual, design and complicated timepieces. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
116.
GÉRALD GENTA – An attractive limited edition white gold GMT wristwatch with perpetual calendar in Arabic, original winding box and certifcate
Manufacturer
Gérald Genta
Year
2008
Movement No.
107208
Case No.
1
Model Name
Octo Mosaic
Calibre
Automatic, cal GG1001, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold deployant strap
Dimensions
44.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 ∑ $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300 Accessories Accompanied by original winding box, certifcate of origin, setting pin, loupe, compass, instruction booklet and product literature.
Gerald Genta’s name is forever associated with some of horology’s greatest icons, Omega’s Constellation, Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse and Nautilus, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, IWC’s Ingenieur, and Cartier’s Pasha models. Born in Geneva in 1931, he received his Swiss diploma in jewelery design and goldsmith training. It is in the mid-eighties that Genta came to be known not only as an extremely gifed designer but also an audacious independent brand that broke all the rules and set new paths.
In the 1990s, he did not limit himself only to designs but explored new case materials (bronze) or complications (in 1994 his Grande Sonnerie retro was the world’s most complicated wristwatch). The case of the present Octo Mosaic Perpetual Calendar seems to be an evolution from the Royal Oak he had designed some twenty years earlier, with its octagonal case shape, taught lines and very masculine wrist presence. Presented in 2007, this watch is n°1 of a limited edition of 100 pieces. Made for Arabic speaking markets, the present watch features perpetual calendar indications in Arabic as well as a GMT function, the dial is inspired by moucharabiehs (windows with carved wood latticework in traditional Arab architecture) with a green and white color scheme. Ofered full set and in excellent condition, the present watch is sure to delight with its unusual attributes.
117.
AUDEMARS PIGUET – A massive and bold limited edition pink gold and forged carbon chronograph wristwatch made to commemorate the Alinghi team victory in 2007
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2007
Reference No.
26062OR.00.A002CA.01
Case No.
F90939 N°094/600
Model Name
Royal Oak Ofshore Alinghi Team - Limited Edition
Material
18k pink gold and forged carbon
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2326/2848, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by special Alinghi Audemars Piguet presentation box with outer packaging.
Alinghi is the Swiss team assembled by Ernesto Bertarelli in 2003 to race the America’s cup. As ofcial sponsor, Audemars Piguet released a limited edition of 600 pieces, to commemorate its second victory in 2007. This Royal Oak Ofshore distinguished itself from the normal production by the fusion and high technicity of its materials. The black ceramic dial proudly displaying the red Alinghi logo is surrounded by a forged carbon bezel set in a pink gold case with a bracelet made of a special rubber. The caseback is beautifully engraved with a picture of the team in action proudly displaying the brand’s name on their boats and the individual number 094/600. The watch provides the wearer with a fyback chronograph, a 20 minutes and a 6 hours subdial as well as a regatta countdown. This bold and extremely masculine wristwatch is presented in excellent condition accompanied with its original box specially customized by Audemars Piguet to represent a sailboat winch.
118.
HUBLOT – A limited edition stainless steel and ceramic chronograph wristwatch made for the “Association Suisse de Football”
Manufacturer
Hublot
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
301.SX.230.RX.ASF02
Case No.
15/300
Model Name
Big Bang ASF
Material
Stainless steel and Ceramic
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 7750 , 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Hublot deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 ∙ $4,000-6,000 €3,600-5,300 Accessories Accompanied by Hublot presentation box customised for the ASF, Certifcate of Authenticity, International Warranty card and product literature.
In 2007, Hublot made a limited edition of 300 pieces specially for the high ranked managers of the ASF : “Association Suisse de Football” (Swiss Football Association). The Big Bang “ASF” is the fusion between ceramic, stainless steel, Kevlar and rubber. The dial has been customized to proudly display the red ASF logo as the third subdial. The caseback is also ftted with the large red logo and the side of the case is further adorned by the Swiss cross beautifully contrasting against the polished stainless steel and black ceramic. Powered by an automatic winding movement, this chronograph also displays the date via an aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock. Masculine, bold and technical, this brand’s icon will appeal to both football fans and lovers of high end watchmaking. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
119.
A rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set wristwatch with center seconds, blue dial, bracelet and service guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1994
Reference No.
18346
Movement No.
7’641’822
Case No.
W’558’458
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex International Service Guarantee dated March 7, 2017.
Cased in platinum, reference 18346 most notably features a diamond-set bezel and sapphire crystal. The last digit “6” represents Rolex’s use of platinum. Heavy, lavish and luxurious, platinum is known as the noblest of all metals. Displaying a blue dial featuring brilliant diamonds set with chatons and a pavé technique, this timepiece is completely dazzling. Platinum is the rarest case metal for serially produced Day-Date models, and this particular watch, preserved in excellent and most probably unpolished condition, is nothing short of spectacular. It is furthermore accompanied by a Rolex International Service Guarantee dated March 7, 2017.
ROLEX Ref. 18346 Platinum
120.
A fne stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1984
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
8’634’336
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “571” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “18”
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
and “78350”
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by undated Rolex punched Guarantee, two additional bracelet links, Wempe service card dated October 26, 1987, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 6263 was in production - together with its metalbezel sibling reference 6265 - since the late 1960s until 1987. The fnal evolution of the manual Daytona line, it is considered by many the most representative and iconic reference of the line, incorporating all the details which made the Daytona a masterpiece of design: bezel with black insert bearing a tachymetre scale, screw-down pushers, and the unmistakable Rolex Oyster case. The purity of this confguration, especially when it comes in the white dial variation, allows not only for perfect legibility - afer all, the Cosmograph was frst and foremost a tool for racers - but also grants the timepiece an undeniably enormous aesthetic impact thanks to the black/white chromatic scheme which alternates obviously on the dial, but on the case as well thanks to the black bezel contrasting with the shiny metal. So pleasing and appealing this design is, that in fact it is the obvious inspiration for the universally acclaimed contemporary Daytona model with ceramic bezel. The present specimen distinguishes itself for the presence of its original box and Guarantee but especially for the superlative condition of its dial. Without a faw and still retaining all luminous accents without trace of losses, it is hard to imagine a better preserved Daytona dial.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
121.
A very fne and elegant platinum perpetual calendar automatic wristwatch with large date, moonphases, 24 hours indication, guarantee and winding box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2015
Reference No.
310.025E
Movement No.
76’276
Case No.
186’207
Model Name
Langematik Perpetual
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 922.1, 43 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 $25,100-35,200 €22,200-31,100 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee book stamped by London retailer Wempe and dated March 7, 2015, instruction booklet, winding box instruction booklet, leather booklets holder and winding box.
Reference 310.025E is one of Lange & Söhne’s interpretations of one of the most classic, useful and sought-afer horological complications: the perpetual calendar. The most noticeable feature of the model is the presence of the large date windows at 12, a “signature” characteristic of the brand. The rest of the information is arranged with supreme elegance around the 3 subsidiary counters: the one at 3 o’clock shows the month and features a smaller subdial for the leap year cycle, the one at 6 shows the phase of the moon and the constant seconds, and the one at 9 indicated the day of the week and the 24 hours indication. The fnal result is a dial which conveys the complexity of the movement without resulting unencumbered with superfuous information, the sign of a true masterpiece of design. Ofered in excellent condition and with all of its original accessories, the present watch will delight its new lucky owner for years to come.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Langematik Perpetual Platinum
122.
A very fne and rare yellow gold limited edition chronograph wristwatch with original certifcate, additional case back and ftted presentation box, made to commemorate the 250th anniversary of Beyer Chronometrie Zürich
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2011
Reference No.
5170
Movement No.
5’522’578
Case No.
4’524’704 and 35/50
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH29-535 PS, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $40,200-70,400 €35,600-62,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin and Attestation dated January 15, 2011, additional numbered caseback, product literature, ftted presentation box engraved “250th Anniversary” and outer packaging.
Fresh to the auction market, the present watch cased in yellow gold was produced as a limited edition series of 50 watches in celebration of Beyer Chronometrie’s 250th anniversary. It not only displays a tachymeter scale, but also features the storied retailer’s signature at 6 o’clock. So exclusive was this limited edition, that Patek Philippe created a special engraved caseback and presentation box in honor of the retailer’s anniversary. Few retailers have a special relationship with Patek Philippe like Beyer has, and it is an incredible privilege for a retailer to have their name stamped on a Patek Philippe dial. Preserved in excellent condition, the present watch is complete with its original certifcate, additional caseback bearing “Patek Philippe No 35/50 Fabriquée pour le 250ème de Beyer à Zürich 1760 - 2010” and Patek Philippe box with a special engraving. To date, this is the fourth reference 5170 made in celebration of Beyer Chronometrie to surface at public auction, attesting to the rarity of the present timepiece.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5170 “Beyer Chronometrie 250th Anniversary”
123.
A very rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial, champagne registers and yellow gold bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1981
Reference No.
6235
Movement No.
10’162
Case No.
6’581’487
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 71, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-90,000 $60,300-90,500 €53,400-80,100
Featuring a black dial with gold graphics and champagne registers, this Rolex Daytona chronograph reference 6265 exudes glamour. Reference 6265 was introduced to the market approximately in 1970, and was made until 1987. While the reference was mainly cased in stainless steel, limited amounts were also cased in 18K or 14K yellow gold. Reference 6265 was in production for almost 20 years, yet no more than 2000 examples were cased in gold. From the late 1970s and onwards, gold examples featured a movement number engraved on the plate behind the balance wheel. Research suggests that this was related to the ofcially certifed chronometer movement. Around this period, Rolex modifed the dial layout for gold versions, and the ‘OCC’ designation was printed on the dial. In overall very appealing and in well preserved condition the present watch with its striking combination of gold livery, black dial and champagne subdials will be a true pleasure to wear.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph
124.
A fne, rare and unusual white gold world time chronograph wristwatch with Certifcate, invoice and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2016
Reference No.
5930G-001
Movement No.
5’920’515
Case No.
6’134’415
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 HU, 38 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 $40,200-60,300 €35,600-53,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by London retailer Wempe and dated October 8, 2016, Wempe invoice dated October 8, 2016, product literature, leather document holder, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
The world time complication is one of Patek Philippes specialties. In fact, the company was one of the very frst to adopt the 24-hour and city rings invented by watchmaker Louis Cottier starting from the early 1930s. Three vintage references were serially produced until the early 1960s, then no more world time wristwatch lef Patek Philippe workshops until the 1990s. The reference was then rediscovered and has since been present in Patek Philippe catalogue and has carved itself a special place in the hearts of Patek Philippe collectors. One of Patek Philippe’s most fascinating vintage timepieces is a unique piece residing in the Patek Philippe museum: a yellow gold world time chronograph wristwatch. Following the footsteps of this historical reference, the company launched in 2016 the frst serially produced world time wristwatch with an additional complication, as seen in the present reference 5930. Produced so far exclusively in white gold, it strikes the beholder with the elegant design of its dial. A discreet silver fxed ring with the chronograph ffh of a second divisions has been added between the mobile city and 24-hour rings, and the 30 minutes counter is placed at 6 o’ clock. In a fnal touch of sophistication, the central disc of the dial is decorated with a superbly executed guilloché pattern. Uniting the modern tradition of Patek Philippe and its most historical roots, reference 5930 is without a doubt a fascinating timepiece which will most probably be regarded as a landmark model for years to come.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5930 World Time Chronograph
125.
A fne and rare white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, certifcate of origin, additional case back and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2007
Reference No.
5970
Movement No.
3’048’487
Case No.
4’388’015
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 90,000-130,000 $90,500-131,000 €80,100-116,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated February 2007, additional caseback, setting pin, product literature and presentation box.
A classic among collectors, reference 5970 is favored for its good looks and generous case proportions. Compared to its predecessor, reference 3970, reference 5970 has a much larger and hefier case size of 40 millimeters. Manufactured from 2004 to 2011, reference 5970 was Patek Philippe’s very last perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch series to use a Lemania 2310 based movement. With the introduction of successor reference 5270, Patek Philippe used its own in-house movement. While the reference has enjoyed variations such as diferent gem-set bezels and various dial designs, examples cased in white gold are the true classics. Preserved in excellent condition, the present watch is ofered with an additional caseback, setting pin and its original certifcate, and box.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5970
126.
A very rare and highly important platinum minute repeating single-button chronograph wristwatch with instantaneous perpetual calendar, moonphases, certifcate and box
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5208P “Grand Complication”
126.
A very rare and highly important platinum minute repeating singlebutton chronograph wristwatch with instantaneous perpetual calendar, moonphases, certifcate and box
Reference 5208P can be considered one of the contemporary masterpieces of the Patek Philippe production. It incorporates a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar and a single button chronograph. Thus, it is characterized as a classic Grand Complication, defnition reserved only for the timepieces featuring a calendar complication, a chronographic complication and a chiming complication at the same time. The present timepiece however pushes the technological boundaries even further: the perpetual calendar is displayed through three windows at 12 o’ clock, which instantaneously and synchronously jump precisely at midnight. This solution - beyond granting the calendar display minimalist and enormously elegant looks - avoids misreadings due to the classic lengthy date change solution. In order to achieve this, a very specifc module (composed by a large lever made out of 15 diferent pieces) had to be developed in order to transmit the exact amount of power at the correct instant. Furthermore, the calendar is accompanied by the moon phase display, a staple of Patek Philippe perpetual calendar timepieces. The intricacy of this movement becomes apparent when considering it is made out of a mind-blowing 701 components in total.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5208P “Grand Complication”
126.
A very rare and highly important platinum minute repeating singlebutton chronograph wristwatch with instantaneous perpetual calendar, moonphases, certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5208P
Movement No.
5’001’134
Case No.
4’598’063
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. R CH 27 PS Q, 58 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 550,000-950,000 $553,000-955,000 €489,000-845,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by Zurich retailer Beyer Chronometrie and dated July 14, 2015, additional solid caseback, additional leather strap, setting pin, leather folder, leather wallet, product literature, Patek Philippe letter in leather folder, massive wooden presentation box, additional leather winding travel box, additional wooden presentation winding box.
The mastery of Patek Philippe went well beyond the making of a complicated movement. The company managed to achieve an extremely uncluttered and elegant dial layout notwithstanding the technical challenges. For example, an intricate system of mechanical deviation had to be developed for the chiming system to correctly “read” the time without interfering with the disposition of the chronograph indications. Also the single button chronograph can be seen as an efort to streamline and de-dramatize the aesthetics of the model. Produced in extremely small amounts since 2011, this masterpiece is reserved only for the most distinguished Patek Philippe clients and it is without a doubt destined to become one of the great classics of the company’s production. The present example is ofered by its original owner and comes with all of its original accessories and even a second Patek Philippe display winding box. Discontinued in 2018 (from last year, only the pink gold version is available), the fact that this is the only third example in platinum to appear on the market highlights the level of attachment collectors show for this outstanding model and the consequent difculty in sourcing it.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5208P “Grand Complication”
127.
An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1982
Reference No.
3700/11
Movement No.
1’310’379
Case No.
559’083
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 $60,300-101,000 €53,400-89,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe box and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production in 1982 and subsequent sale on January 6, 1983.
A design that has stood the test of time, the Nautilus was Patek Philippe’s – rather successful – venture into the realm of casual chic sports watches. Gerald Genta’s design inspired by the portholes of transatlantic ocean liners was named afer Captain Nemo’s Nautilus submarine from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The ‘Jumbo’ case with wide fat bezel, integrated steel link bracelet, and ultra-thin automatic movement had a masculine aesthetic compared to the smaller dressy gold mechanical watches of the time. Whereas the steel model is an invitation to travel to far of exotic places, the gold version like the present model is the perfect wrist wear for a dolce vita art of living that requires sipping Negroni cocktails and listening to Stan Getz. The gold livery of the present Nautilus reference 3700 adds so much fair, sophistication and suave cool to an already amazing watch regardless of the metal. The arrival on the auction market of a yellow gold reference 3700 is so rare and far in between that fnding one like the present model, fresh to the market and in overall excellent condition with strong bevels and tight bracelet is an event that should not be missed.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3700 Nautlius “Jumbo”
128.
An impressive and most probably unique cushion shaped platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, black dial and Breguet numerals
Launched in 1994 and in production for about 8 years, Patek Philippe’s reference 5020, also known as the “TV Screen” due to its particular cushion shape was an alternative to the reference 3970 featuring the same complications (and mechanically identical): perpetual calendar with leap year, 24 hour indicator and chronograph. The reference 5020’s avant garde design and tasteful proportions sets it apart from other perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe. However, its unusual case shape elicited lukewarm reactions from clients leading to very low production numbers. It is believed that about 200 examples of reference 5020 were ever made, either in yellow, pink or white gold as well as in platinum. Platinum models were available either with a silver dial with Breguet numerals or with a black dial and diamond markers. In fact so rare is the platinum version that only 4 models with silver dial and Breguet numerals and 3 examples with black dial and diamond markers are known to date.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5020P “Black Dial Breguet Numerals”
128.
An impressive and most probably unique cushion shaped platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, black dial and Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2001
Reference No.
5020
Movement No.
3’046’354
Case No.
2’956’191
Model Name
“TV Screen”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
37mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000 ∆ $302,000-603,000 €267,000-534,000 Accessories Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin, Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2001 with black dial and Breguet numerals, and its subsequent sale on April 29, 2002, hangtag, setting pin, ftted box and product literature.
What truly sets the present lot apart, making it unique, is the rich deep black dial adorned with Breguet numerals making this piece the only reference 5020 in platinum with this dial layout known and documented in the Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin. The ultra-rarity of the 5020, in any metal, already makes it covetable but scholarship shows that less than 20 platinum models were produced and amongst them only one in the present case/dial combination.
129. NO LOT.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5020P “Black Dial Breguet Numerals”
130.
OMEGA – A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
Circa 2014
Reference No.
3576.50.00
Movement No.
77’096’722
Case No.
77’096’722
Model Name
Speedmaster Professional
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1866, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 $4,000-6,000 €3,600-5,300
Fitted with a sapphire crystal caseback engraved “The First And Only Watch Worn On The Moon”, reference 3576.50.00 is most notably ftted with a moonphase and date complication. Its appearance is directly inspired by the vintage reference 345.0809, which was the frst Speedmaster to be produced with a date and moonphase complication. This timepiece is ofered with no reserve and is presented in virtually like-new condition. The watch must have been worn once or twice only and displays all its original factory fnishes.
The Speedmaster is unequivocally Omega’s most historically important model to date. Its history spans almost sixty years with the very frst Speedmaster launched in 1957. Period advertising marketed the innovative model to “men who reckon time in seconds”. It was incredibly useful for race car drivers, engineers, and professionals who dealt with time in their line of work. This model is among Omega’s most important references ever created, spawning successors that partook in humankind’s most ground-breaking moments, the most pertinent being landing on the moon. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
131.
OMEGA – An extremely rare, attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph with chestnut “tropical” dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
145.012-67
Movement No.
26’071’679
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Metal buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production on April 11, 1968 and delivery to Hong Kong.
Omega’s Speedmaster reference 145.012-67 was produced in 1967 and 1968 and was one of the wristwatches NASA chose for its Apollo program. This particular model with ‘lyra’ style lugs houses caliber 321, a favourite amongst collectors and the last model to feature it. Omega upgraded their earlier 105.012 case using a new design that was made for greater water resistance. The pushers were screwed in to the case and the case back was stamped ‘SP’ for ‘special poussoirs’. Interestingly, the present watch was delivered on April 11, 1968 for Hong Kong - a city in the tropics. It comes as no surprise that the elements have caused this dial to turn brown over time.
132.
BREITLING – A very rare, attractive and extremely well preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, black gloss luminous dial and revolving bezel
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
1004
Case No.
645’631
Model Name
Super-Ocean
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 125, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300
As recreational scuba diving became more and more popular as a hobby in the 1950s, Breitling devised a timepiece specifcally crafed for divers: the Super-Ocean. A Breitling advertisement from the late 1950s states: “Breitling had the honor of supplying 25 of the world’s leading airlines and aircraf companies. From now on, Breitling ofers you the same vital precision under the sea: the new Super Ocean 20 atmos (600 feet) was specially created by Breitling for deep sea exploration and to cater for the fast growing popularity of underwater sports.”
While the popularity of this model is arguably less than that of its contemporary peers (such as the Rolex Submariner or the Blancpain 50 Fathoms), the Super-Ocean represents a hidden gem in the panorama of early diver’s wristwatch. Produced in very scarce numbers, its rarity matches the superlative looks of the piece. The watch is dominated by the large concave revolving bezel - a “must” feature of most if not all diver’s wristwatch models - but the dial as well is a masterpiece of industrial design: the large dagger luminous numerals are eminently readable in all conditions, and the addition of applied metal numerals cutting through round luminous markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 add enormous fair and character. Finding a Super-Ocean in such superb condition as the present model is truly an outstandingly rare occurrence which makes the present lot a true hidden gem for the savvy collector of rare vintage timepieces.
133.
OMEGA – A rare, large and very attractive stainless steel chronograph with multi-scale dial and pulsations scale
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1939
Movement No.
9’385’506
Case No.
9’556’287
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal 33.3, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,100-18,100 €10,700-16,000
This extremely well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch most notably displays an impressive multi-tone grey dial with both tachymeter and pulsations scales. Printed in diferent shades, the scales range from blue to red, giving this watch a lot of charisma and depth. Contrasting against the Arabic numerals, the efect is stunning. The present chronograph display’s Omega’s incredible knowhow in creating chronograph wristwatches. Housing the iconic 33.3 caliber, this example is preserved in excellent condition, with sharp angled lugs that do not display signs of over polishing. The 37.5 millimeter case is very large for the period, its presence enhanced by the three dimensional angled lugs. It is particularly impressive that Omega had the foresight to create such a large and modern looking watch in the late 1930s. Research with the manufacture reveals that this timepiece was sold to Italy in 1939.
134.
A very fne and rare limited edition yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with burgundy bezel and bracelet, made to commemorate the Apollo XI moon landing, accompanied by original presentation box and hang tag
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1969
Reference No.
BA 145.022
Movement No.
28’422’105
Model Name
Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch De Luxe
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 861, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Omega bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Omega deployant clasp,
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed;
numbered 1116/575
case with limited edition number 236. Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,100-50,300 €22,200-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by original presentation box and hang tag. Further accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production on December 8, 1969 and delivery to Switzerland.
While July 20th 1969 is remembered in the global historical record as the day man frst walked on the moon, it is treasured by Omega in particular as Apollo XI astronauts Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong both wore Omega Speedmasters to accompany their historic moonwalk. “To mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time” adorns the casebacks of the frst 32 pieces of this limited edition series of 1,014 Speedmasters, resplendent in 18K yellow gold with a matching bracelet and burgundy bezel. These frst few watches were awarded to the President and VicePresident of the United States at the time (who eventually did not accept the gif due to compliance reasons), then watches numbered 3 through 28 were presented to NASA astronauts, with 29 through 32 going to important members of Omega and Lemania – all with their names engraved in the caseback. The present lot is part of the frst batch ofered publicly in 1969, numbers 33 through 1,000, bearing the inscription “The First Watch Worn on the Moon” along with the limited edition number. It is accompanied by its original hangtag and presentation box, the latter of which has a distinct texture evoking the lunar surface. Few examples of the box have survived to the present day, making it a highly rare collector’s item.
OMEGA Ref. BA 145.022 Speedmaster Apollo XI
135.
A rare and highly attractive stainless steel diver’s watch with black glossy dial, humidity indicator and diving log book
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
Circa 1959
Case No.
2839
Model Name
Fify Fathoms Milspec I
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
NATO
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,200-50,400 €22,300-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by diving log book and photos.
Even though Blancpain’s Fify Fathoms has been in production since the early 1950s, scholarship regarding this fascinating model continues to be written. The story of its origins are well known, rooted in solving the needs of an elite branch of the French Navy – the Service de Documentation Extérieure et de Contre-Espionnage – tasked with underwater espionage and other covert operations. The head of this unit was Captain Bob Maloubier, and he personally sketched out the watch that would one day be fully realized as the Blancpain Fify Fathoms. Maloubier found a champion for his project in Blancpain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fletcher - a passionate diver himself. Fletcher named the watch afer the greatest depth that a combat diver was believed able to withstand at the time.
The watch combined cutting edge features such as an antimagnetic and water-resistant case, a screw down caseback, a “double O-ring crown system”, an automatic movement and a rotating bezel. Extremely robust and reliable, it was truly designed by military professionals, and was soon selected by other militaries around the world for their diving units, including the U.S. Navy. While the US Navy struggled to fnd a high grade diving wristwatch that complied to the “Buy America” act, an American watch importer named Allan V. Tornek saw a great opportunity to partner with Blancpain in order to present the Fify Fathoms. Already approved by many armies around the world, the watch was soon confrmed by the US Navy. It became known as the “Milspec 1”, which stands for Military Specifcation.The present watch is a beautiful example of an early Fify Fathoms ‘Milspec’ with a humidity indicator at 6 o’clock. It displays other military specifcations such as a threepart body case and a diamond shaped marker at 12 o’clock on the revolving bezel. The present watch is not only a textbook example of an early Fify Fathoms Milspec, preserved in unmatched condition, but also accompanied by the diving log of a U.S. Navy Mineman First Class (MN1), Earl Chester Merrill, during his training dives in the early 1960s until he was discharged from active diving service in 1964. Additionally accompanied by images of the serviceman during his time in the military, this Fify Fathoms is well-known in the Blancpain collecting community, purchased from the son of the original owner about a decade ago. A Mineman in the U.S. Navy was charged with the delicate task of detecting and neutralizing underwater bombs. During the years Mineman First Class Merrill was active, the United States was embroiled in the Cold War, and fexing its military might on land, at sea, and in space, making MN1 Merrill an important element in the military-industrial complex and his Blancpain Fify Fathoms Milspec the ultimate tool.
BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms Milspec I
136.
BREGUET – A very rare and attractive stainless steel military issued chronograph wristwatch with degradé brown tropical dial
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1955
Case No.
7373
Model Name
Type XX
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 222, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case signed. Caseback further engraved with multiple “Fin de Garantie” markings
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,100-18,100 €10,700-16,000
The Breguet Type XX, more than any other Type XX has entered our collective consciousness as the epitome of the aviator’s watch. Type XX was the project code used by the French Ministry of Defense to defne the specifcations of a military watch that would equip the pilots of their naval forces. At the beginning of the Cold War, the French government decided that they needed to have their own military watch. In the mid-50s they presented the specifcations to diferent watch brands including Breguet. The watch had to be very legible at night and ftted with a black dial and large Arabic luminous numerals. Movement wise, the watch needed to be accurate within eight seconds a day and have a power reserve of more than 35 hours. But the most
important feature was a fyback chronograph to allow pilots to reset and restart the chronograph instantly. It would also feature a rotating bezel to remind the wearer of a specifc event such as its fuel reserve! Over the course of its history, the Breguet Type XX was produced either in a military or a civilian version. Military examples like the present watch did not display any information such as the brand or the model name on the dial as to maintain legibility. Only the caseback was engraved with Breguet, Type 20, 5101/54 and then further engraved with FG which stands for “Fin de Garantie”: end of guarantee in French and a date. These engravings were made by the watchmaker that would have serviced the watch to inform the pilot when he should have his watch serviced next. This watch bears inscriptions from 8.56 to 29.7.81. According to the Breguet archives the present watch was delivered to the Airforce on June 1955. It is part of the exceptionally rare issued watches to survive in such good condition rendered especially appealing thanks to the degradé chocolate tropical hue of the top part of the dial that slowly morphs into black in the lower section. We sincerely thank Montres Breguet and especially M. Emmanuel Breguet, for kindly supplying us with information from the archives.
137.
ULYSSE NARDIN – A fne, very rare and extremely well preserved two-tone stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Ulysse Nardin
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
7025
Movement No.
7’500’049
Case No.
648’788
Material
Stainless steel and pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 23, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
34.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-8,000 $4,000-8,000 €3,600-7,100
The 1940s were an exploratory time for watch manufacturers as is evidenced by the great diversity of case designs during this important period of the development of the wristwatch. Presented here is a wonderful example from Ulysse Nardin a widely acclaimed Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1846, housed in a delicately balanced case, that’s half stainless steel and half rose gold. Made by Frères Borgel, the case bears a remarkable resemblance to another case made by the same manufacturer, the iconic and beloved Patek Philippe Ref. 1463, which many believe to be one of the most well-executed chronographs ever made.
Just like it, the watch features two onion-top chronograph pushers seemingly large for a case of its size, giving the timepiece greater presence on the wrist. Remarkably, the case seamlessly fuses pink gold and stainless steel, the only clear delineation occurring at the lugs. This tasty little chronograph must have been designed for a lover of the great outdoors as it features a 12-hours revolving bezel insert and a screw-back protecting the fne movement from humidity and dust. The watch is powered by a manual-winding “Valjoux 23” featuring a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, with a small seconds register placed opposite to balance out the dial. The dial is preserved in stunning condition, and features gold Arabic numbers at the hour markers and alpha hands. The designation on the dial under the Ulysse Nardin inscription logo reads “Locle Suisse”, referring to Le Locle, the historic headquarters of their factories. This very tasty chronograph is ftted with a leather strap, giving it both a classic and versatile look. Well preserved, and in overall excellent original condition, the watch retains strong defnition throughout the case and lugs.
138.
An attractive bronze prototype wristwatch with glossy gilt sector dial, dead beat seconds and second dial, proceeds going to charity
Manufacturer
Habring 2 X Massena Lab
Year
2019
Case No.
Prototype
Model Name
Erwin LAB01
Material
Bronze
Calibre
Manual, cal. A11MS, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Bronze pin buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed Habring2, case further signed Massena LAB
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 ∙ $5,000-8,000 €4,400-7,100 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, second prototype dial, spare parts, guarantee and paper confrming the present watch is a prototype.
Massena LAB is a creative laboratory created by William Massena, an industry veteran, long time collector and General Manager of Time Zone, the oldest and one of the most important watch related forums on the net. The philosophy of Massena LAB is to collaborate with independent watchmakers to create watches of sophisticated character with enduring value.
Even though Massena had worked with Habring² in the past, the Erwin LAB1 is the very frst collaboration under the Massena LAB umbrella. Habring² is created by multiple Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) award winner, husband and wife team of watchmakers Richard and Maria Habring, who afer having worked for diferent brands set up their workshops in Austria in 2004 concentrating on making timepieces with features and complications rarely found in the market and at an afordable price point. The Erwin LAB01 was defnitely a watch collectors had been hoping for, it was presented early 2019 as a limited edition of 50 pieces and it sold out within a matter of days! The movement is developed fully in house by Habring² and features a dead beat seconds mechanism meaning a seconds hand that advances perfectly once every second. Housing the movement is a surprising polished bronze “Calatrava” style case closer in color to vintage yellow gold than to the matte bronze we are more used to seeing. The black glossy dial with gilt printing is an homage to the gorgeous sector dials found in some of the most beautiful watches in the 1930s. The present Erwin LAB01 is the original prototype that was later brought to the market and is also ofered with a second prototype dial that never made it into production. The case is diferent to the production model as the fank was brushed as to test the aging process of the bronze case. An appealing watch in its own right the present model is both historically important as it is the prototype of the very frst Massena LAB timepiece. In an extremely generous gesture by the consignor, all proceeds from the sale of this watch will be going to the United Nations High Commissioner For Refugees. LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE
HABRING 2 X MASSENA LAB Erwin LAB01 Prototype
139.
An impressive and rare limited edition pink gold wristwatch with three dimensional satellite hour display, retrograde minutes, fve-day power reserve, day and night indication and fve-year service indicator
Manufacturer
Harry Winston by Felix Baumgartner
Year
Circa 2005
Case No.
017’747 limited edition number 43/45
Model Name
Opus V
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. ARCAP P-40 Opus V
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Harry Winston pin buckle
Dimensions
50mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-80,000 ∑ $50,300-80,400 â‚Ź44,500-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by special Opus V ftted box and instruction manual.
Two names come immediately to mind when one thinks of creative independent horology : MB&F and Urwerk. These two powerhouses have been changing the face of modern watchmaking for years and the Opus V is the frst and only collaboration between Maximilan Busser (CEO of Harry Winston Watches before creating MB&F) and Felix Baumgartner (cofounder and master watchmaker of Urwerk) for a result that is nothing short of exceptional.
Where the Opus 3, a collaboration with Vianney Halter in 2003, presented the premises of radical horological change, the Opus V is most probably the watch that opened the dams of creativity for budding watch brands who realized that it was possible to be completely free artistically when designing a highly complicated timepiece. A world premiere, time on the Opus V is read via three rotating cubes that indicate the hours, along with a retrograding minute scale. A day/night indicator and a fve-day power reserve indicator are also featured. A fve-year service indicator, letting the wearer know when it is time for the watch to be taken for servicing is placed on the back (also a world premiere). Opus V was launched in 2005 and remains today, 14 years afer its presentation, a mesmerizing horological UFO retaining its WOW factor and ability to surprise and impress. This watch bears the DNA of Urwerk with its unconventional time telling mechanism and bold and dynamic look. The series was extremely limited, produced in just 45 examples in pink gold of which the present watch is number 43 and 45 in platinum along with seven pieces in platinum set with round diamonds, and three examples in platinum set with baguette diamonds, for a total of 100 timepieces. The Opus V over the years has become amongst the most sought afer watches in the Opus series and this watch provides a scarce opportunity for collectors of independent watchmakers to own one.
HARRY WINSTON X FELIX BAUMGARTNER Opus V
140.
A fne and rare platinum dual time wristwatch with power reserve
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
2015
Reference No.
01.PL.W
Case No.
50P36825 further stamped limited edition 2/33
Model Name
Legacy Machine 1
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum MB&F pin buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by MB&F Authenticity Certifcate dated 01 March 2019.
Launched in 2011, the LM1 introduced watch collectors to a singularly fresh take on traditional watchmaking. Said to be inspired by 19th century pocket watches, the LM1 presents a traditional feature not seen in previous MB&F models: a round case, white lacquer subdials and blued steel hands.
However, it does that in an extremely modern confguration and underneath a spectacular sapphire dome. The most visually striking element is the balance wheel, presented on the dial side of the watch hanging theatrically over two white lacquer dials featuring independent time displays. The watch is powered by a beautifully crafed manualwinding movement, created by Jean-Francois Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, with a 45-hour power reserve indicated by a vertical indicator at 6 o’clock. The LM1 was an instant hit when it was launched, receiving both popular and critical praised. The watch received both the Public Prize and the Best Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2012, shortly afer its release, and inspired an entire range including a perpetual calendar version. Now discontinued, the LM1 was made in four diferent metals: rose gold, white gold, stainless steel and platinum. The present example, made shortly afer the presentation of the LM1 at the Basel Watch Fair, is the second of 33 made in platinum. A modern masterpiece, the present lot is preserved in outstanding condition. It is an extremely rare opportunity to obtain one of the rarest Legacy Machines, from one the MB&F’s earliest advocates. Please note that MB&F will ofer a full complementary servicing of this watch to the new owner.
MB&F Legacy Machine 1 Platinum
141.
A unique white gold dual time zone wristwatch with hand engraved dial
Manufacturer
Voutilainen
Year
2014
Movement No.
28-074
Case No.
28-074
Model Name
Vingt-8 GMT
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’”, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold pin buckle signed Voutilainen
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by large ftted box, certifcate, product literature, watch box, guarantee and polishing cloth. Literature Kari Voutilainen is featured in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 228-247 and in Twelve Faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elisabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp. 90-105.
Afer spending a decade restoring the fnest horological creations of the past three centuries, Kari Voutilainen became a rising star in the watchmaking scene in the early 2000s with his unique piece decimal minute repeaters that chimed every ten minutes and no longer the quarter hours, contrary to all repeating wristwatches available at the time. These watches were soon followed by his Observatory and Vingt-8 models with a movement fnish ofen compared to that of the great Philippe Dufour.
With the present unique Vingt-8 GMT, Kari Voutilainen manages to perfectly balance the horological tradition of the movement and unbridled creativity of the dial. What immediately strikes the eye is the superb hand engraved dial with Art Deco numerals and background giving the watch an irresistible seductive attraction. The motifs on the dial dance and sway depending on the angle of the light shining on it, bringing the dial to life in a playful manner. The dial is not the only work of art in this watch, the movement is a superlative example of Voutilainen’s mastery. Fully conceived, created and assembled in Voutilainen’s ateliers in Môtiers (Switzerland) where Kari and his team make about 50 watches per year, this apparently simple movement features a complex direct impulse escapement enabling a more constant distribution of energy. Furthermore, the extra-large balance allows fne regulation of the watch using a rare balance spring system with the exterior of the spring using a Breguet overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve. Furthermore, every component in this caliber, from the bridges to the tiniest of screws, involves manual labor, may it be adjusted tolerances, polishing, angling and so on. A GMT mechanism is integrated in the movement. Its indicator takes the form of a disc at 6 o’clock. The disc shows 24 hours and includes a day/night indicator. The triangle transferred to the subsidiary seconds dial represents the index by which the indication can be read. The disc is advanced by pressing the crown, each press moving the disc forward one hour at a time. In unworn condition and made as a unique piece, this highly collectible watch from one of the greatest living contemporary watchmakers is sure to fnd a place of honor in any collection.
VOUTILAINEN Vingt-8 GMT “Unique”
142.
An unusual and rare limited edition tourbillon wristwatch in pink gold
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
2016
Reference No.
60.RL.B
Case No.
60R0118
Model Name
Horological Machine 6 - Space Pirate
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal developed with David Candaux,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
68 jewels Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold pin buckle
Dimensions
49.5 x 52.3 x 20.4 mm
Estimate CHF 70,000-120,000 $70,400-121,000 â‚Ź62,300-107,000 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, guarantee papers, product literature and pouch.
Since its inception over 10 years ago, MB&F has been bedazzling collectors and enthusiasts with their over the top, audacious, viciously cool and creative timepieces. Max Bßsser, the brand’s founder and creative director conceives the Horological Machines (HM) not as mere timepieces but as kinetic sculptures for the wrist that can also indicate time. Inspired by the bulbous spaceship of Captain Flam (also known as captain Futuro) a Japanese cartoon character that was very popular in the 1970s-1980s, the HM6 is also nicknamed the Space Pirate.
The entire shape and time telling of the watch is like no other, the shape is a surprising organic spacecraf that fts the wrist perfectly. Time is read via rotating spheres (hours on the lef and minutes on the right). The top center features a lovely fying tourbillon that can be shielded or remain visible by turning the crown on the case side. Two turbines resembling spacecraf engines are placed on the back and rotate with the movements of the arm. They are in fact linked to the winding, by a gear train and amplify the number of rotations, thus making the automatic winding more efcient. The HM6 features 10 sapphire crystal domes, fve on top of the watch and fve on the back. Making domes of this size consistent with each other and with no optical distortions is a feat unto itself. The HM6 was made in only 100 pieces: 18 pieces in pink gold like the present watch, 50 in titanium, 10 pieces in sapphire crystal and platinum, 10 pieces in sapphire crystal and red gold, 4 unique pieces in the Alien Nation edition and 8 pieces in stainless steel. With the Horological Machines MB&F put the Extra into Ordinary. The HM6 is more than just a talking piece, it is a 475 component technical tour de force that took 4 years to develop and a timepiece that would be perfect for the free thinking collector looking for the unusual and beautiful.
MB&F Horological Machine 6 - Space Pirate
143.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – An extremely rare and attractive pink gold wristwatch with styled lugs and guilloché bezel
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1954
Reference No.
6022
Movement No.
517’912
Case No.
342’732
Model Name
“Diavolo”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9’’ 1001, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming the production of the present watch in 1954.
Vacheron Constantin’s willingness to ofer alternative designs to classical dress wristwatches appears as early as the 1920s. The brand’s innovative and sometimes disruptive designs are well known amongst collectors and fancy lugs have become a key element of the brand DNA. The present reference 6022 was launched in the early 1950s and nicknames "Diavolo" due to the resemblance of the lugs to the devil's horns! The polished lugs present a striking contrast to the delicately guilloché case giving the watch incredible personality. The present watch is presented in very attractive condition. Its pink gold case retains strong proportion and the patina on the dial attests the love this watch has already received from its original owner. Because of its condition and distinctive design, we can confdently say this timepiece would move any collector who chances upon it.
144.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – A large, fne and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1960
Reference No.
6307
Movement No.
545’520
Case No.
366’034
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K1071, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 $6,000-9,000 €5,300-8,000 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1960.
The 60s were an incredible period where old world classicism was giving way to change and experimentations were it in literature, art, music and of course design. The present reference 6307 may look rather traditional at frst glance but many elements set it apart from the styles of the preceding decade and what would come in the 1970s.
The 37mm case was incredibly large for the epoch where 33mm-35mm cases were considered the norm for men’s watches and the screwed caseback introduces an element of sporty elegance. The lugs seem thick when seen from above but are slender and elegantly down-turning when admired from the side. The bezel is incredibly shaped with an unusual stepped angling that gives it marvelous charisma. The cream dial with facetted applied double baton hour markers and pearl shaped minute markers add the fnal touches to this stylish design. Giving life to this reference 6307 is the Vacheron Constantin caliber K1070, an automatic movement featuring a rotor with a guilloché 18k gold rim that is mounted on four ruby rollers. Furthermore, this movement features the Geneva Seal, demonstrating its painstaking fnish.
145.
An incredibly rare and highly attractive white gold wristwatch with rotating bezel
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1970
Reference No.
6782
Movement No.
629’776
Case No.
458’605
Model Name
“Turnograph”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. K1072, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold pin buckle signed AW
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming the production of the present watch in 1970.
Most watch companies can be classifed according to their typical output. Over time, some have specialized in high-end complicated pieces and dress watches (such as Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe), whilst others have pursued the market for professional wristwatches (for example, Rolex or Omega). For many, this specialization took place shortly afer the Second World War, when the demand for more robust and functional timepieces began to soar, pushing some of the more traditional Maisons out of their comfort zone. The reference 6782 Turnograph from Vacheron Constantin is one of those experimental watches.
With a rich heritage characterized by elegant dress watches, Vacheron Constantin’s production of sport/tool pieces was virtually non-existent until the release of the “Turnograph” nicknamed as such due to its similarities to the Rolex reference 1625. Rather thick for dress watches of the time, the reference 6782 features a waterproof case and rotating bezel to measure elapsed time. However, the reference 6782 remains an overtly luxurious timepiece. The attention to detail in the milling of the bezel and more importantly, the use of gold instead of stainless steel for the case and bezel make this “Turnograph” incomparable to other sports watches from the same era. In many ways this watch was way ahead of its time, and ultimately Vacheron Constantin chose to retire their luxury sports watch within a few years of its initial release. The present example, fresh to the market, is ofered in exquisite condition. It retains all of its original factory fnishes. The circular screw down case is unpolished, the lugs display original fnishes and clear defned lines, while the silver “Star Burst” dial is clean and in all original condition. Made predominantly in yellow gold, the present reference 6782 is only the third white gold version known, interestingly each of the white gold models having a slightly diferent bezel. The waterproof case, rotating bezel and overall sporty look could possibly make the Vacheron Constantin "Turnograph" the frst sports chic model to be made by a traditional watch brand a few years before the launch of the Royal Oak! The present Vacheron Constantin “Turnograph” is one of the company’s most exclusive and elusive models and a treasure for the most discerning collector especially in this ultra rare white gold livery.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 6782 “Turnograph”
146.
A superbly preserved stainless steel and 14K pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two tone pink champagne dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1945
Reference No.
4072
Movement No.
437’690
Case No.
273’572
Material
Stainless steel and 14K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 434, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
The elegant combination of the two tone pink champagne dial paired with a steel case and pink gold bezel as well as chronograph pushers make the present watch a symbol of exquisite style and sophisticated nonchalance. In production from 1938 until the late 1960s the reference 4072 still exudes a highly contemporary elegance. Vacheron Constantin produced the watch with both the rare oval-shaped chronograph pushers, or as found on the present watch, with more modern, rectangular-shaped pushers. Furthermore, the 34mm case featured either a rare fat bezel or a beveled one.
Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming date of manufacture in 1945.
One of Vacheron Constantin’s most iconic and sought afer vintage chronograph models, especially in the present combination of which less than 70 are known, this particular reference 4072 is distinguished by its immaculate case preserved in factory fresh condition. The case appears larger due to the elongated and powerful lugs as well as the wide dial opening.
It is believed that following its partnership with famed Parisian casemaker Verger Frères in the 1920s, Vacheron Constantin has since then infused a certain Mediterranean fair and Parisian chic to its timepieces, the present astounding reference 4072 in stainless steel and pink gold is a perfect example.
Scholars and connoisseurs consider Vacheron Constantin chronographs to be amongst the most beautiful ever made, ofering exceptional quality, aesthetics and value. The present model is amongst the fnest and best preserved examples of the reference to appear on the market in recent memory, making it a trophy watch for the connoisseur.
Estimate CHF 80,000-120,000 $80,400-121,000 €71,200-107,000
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 4072 Steel and Pink Gold “Rose Two-Tone Dial”
147.
A fne, very rare, and extremely well-preserved pink gold triple calendar wristwatch with pink two-tone dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1947
Reference No.
4240
Movement No.
457’954
Case No.
300’106
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. V455, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1947.
Vacheron Constantin boasts a long history of producing calendar watches. Its frst identifed complicated timepiece is a full calendar from 1790, and the manufacture subsequently made unique pieces during the following centuries. However, it was not until the launch of reference 4240 in 1942 that this complication entered the brand’s catalogue as a serially produced reference. It was produced both with and without moonphases, the former indicated by ‘L’ for ‘lune’ afer the reference number, and the latter indicated by the present example. Additionally, Vacheron produced examples with the days printed in both red and blue, a feature they ofer on the modern reinterpretation of this vintage wristwatch, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948. The day and month are indicated via two apertures on the top part of the dial, whereas the date is indicated by a central hand against a beautiful and warm two-tone champagne dial. Small Arabic numerals interspersed with pyramidal indexes demonstrate the hours, while a printed railway track indicates the minutes. The result, displayed on a resplendent pink gold dial and housed in an architecturally elaborate matching pink gold case, is truly harmonious. The elegant pink gold futed case is associated with lugs that look slightly tapered when viewed from the top but are aggressively downturned, looking like fangs, when seen from the side. The aesthetics of the present timepiece are matched only by its overall impeccable condition.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 4240
148.
A rare, attractive and well-preserved pink gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1952
Reference No.
4072
Movement No.
466’730
Case No.
328’772
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. V492, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Vacheron Constantin buckle
Dimensions
34.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 â‚Ź17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1952.
Elegant, stylish and well-preserved, this Vacheron Constantin reference 4072 is incredibly impressive. In production from 1938 until the late 1960s, the reference 4072 is a very diverse chronograph model. While cased most ofen in yellow gold, the reference was also dressed in pink gold, stainless steel, or steel and gold combinations. Very few pink gold timepieces with the chronograph caliber 492 were ever manufactured, making this timepiece incredibly rare. Of particular note is the crisp case, displaying a strong hallmark beneath the elongated lugs. Furthermore, the case retains all its crisp facets, along with contrasting polished and satin fnishes. The dial too, is preserved in excellent condition, with clear and legible printed graphics.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Ref. 4072
149.
A rare and extremely well-preserved yellow gold calendar wristwatch with red lacquer “Stella” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1985
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0’958’196
Case No.
8’899’004
Model Name
Day-Date “Woman in Red”
Material
18K yellow gold and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $15,100-30,200 €13,300-26,700
Literature The present watch is prominently illustrated in Day-Date, The Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo, page 366 and 367.
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. Since its inception in 1956, it remains one of the most surprising and diverse fagship models Rolex has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamor and prestige. This superlative Day-Date is ftted with a beautiful red lacquer “Stella” dial and diamond indexes. Named “Woman in Red”, this timepiece is prominently illustrated in Day-Date, The Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo. Dazzling and incredibly luxurious, it is preserved in excellent and most probably unpolished condition. The case displays an attractive layer of patina throughout and crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs. The bracelet is rigid and preserved in excellent condition. Furthermore, the “Stella” dial is intact and boasts a brilliant red sheen.
ROLEX Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Woman in Red”
150.
A rare stainless steel dual time wristwatch with center seconds, date, black lacquer dial, bracelet and pointed crown guards, original guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
1675 inside case back stamped 1.60
Movement No.
98’139
Case No.
504’295
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.57
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 O $25,100-45,200 €22,200-40,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex blank guarantee and presentation box.
Reference 1675 was introduced in 1960 as the successor of the reference 6542. Early examples, such as the present watch, featured pointed crown guards. The steel insert did not carry radium, which by then was considered a health hazard. This early reference 1675 displays pointed crown guards and a “Swiss” stamped dial which is correct for the period. The “Ofcially Certifed Chronometer” chapter ring dial is correct for the serial number and still remains glossy and mirror-like, which is remarkable considering the age of the watch. The case is furthermore preserved in excellent condition with sharp bevels and crisp edges throughout. The bracelet is also from the period and is preserved in excellent condition.
ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “OCC with Exclamation Mark”
151.
An extremely rare and early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and “foating” Daytona signature
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1964
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’090’462
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, end links stamped 49, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
stamped 10-9 and marked U.S.A.
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 ∆ $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500
The reference 6239, the frst Cosmograph Daytona introduced into Rolex’s collection, was launched in 1963, and scholars generally agree that the earliest 6239s began around the serial number 922’900. The earliest 6239s had no Daytona logo on the dial, with the commonly accepted reasoning being that Rolex wanted to capitalize on society’s fascination with space travel, but also to concentrate their marketing eforts on a specifc geographic location. That frst full year of production, 1964, Rolex sponsored both the French Le Mans and the American Daytona motor sport endurance races. The Cosmograph was initially marketed as the ‘Le Mans’, but Rolex quickly settled on the American ‘Daytona’ product name, which would soon begin appearing on dials. The earliest dials with the ‘Daytona’ designation are rare and highly coveted, as they are typically printed in a smaller script, centered below the ‘Cosmograph’ designation closer to the middle of the dial. This disjointed appearance has given way to the term “foating” or “suspended” as a descriptor for these dials. The present watch, with the serial 1’090’462, is one of the earliest examples of any Cosmograph reference to appear publicly with the Daytona logo and the earliest example to appear with black dial and silver subsidiary dials. Its manuallywound Valjoux caliber 72B is marked ‘ROW’ indicating export to the United States, and is ftted with a stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet also stamped ‘United States’.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Floating”
152.
An exceptionally well-preserved and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1968
Reference No.
6241 inside case back stamped 6241
Case No.
1’766’187
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster C&I bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 76
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 O $151,000-251,000 €133,000-222,000 Provenance Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, Christie’s Geneva November
Reference 6241 was produced approximately from 1966 to 1969. Scholars estimate that no more than 3000 pieces were produced during the model’s manufacture period, and only a small part of them with “Paul Newman” dials. This particular piece has an impressive provenance - it was previously sold at the ground-breaking thematic sale “Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch” on November 10, 2013. Featuring a dial confguration identical to Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” watch, this reference 6241 is an exceptional example with an incredibly crisp case and extremely well-preserved dial. Featuring bold and crisp proportions, the watch has possibly never seen polishing throughout its over-50-year life span. Of particular note is the slanted “T Swiss T” designation at 6 o’clock, which is a particularity of references 6239 and 6241. Its “Paul Newman” successors on reference 6262 and 6264 would feature a fat “T Swiss T” at 6 o’clock. This particular ivory white dial displays hardly any signs of aging, and the luminous dots remain full and intact.
10, 201, lot 6.
Other details on this timepiece include the Mk 1 bezel, which is correct for reference 6241 and gives the watch a lot of presence on the wrist.
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
153.
A very fne, extremely rare and highly important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Oyster Sotto” Paul Newman dial
Few Rolex timepieces command as much admiration as the Paul Newman “Oyster Sotto”. Considered the apex of Daytona collecting, this extremely rare variation - less than two dozen are known overall - was made during the last leg of production of the Paul Newman dial. While the “Exotic” (as Rolex called the Paul Newman dial at the time) dials were being phased out due to their little popularity, the Sotto variation came about most probably due to Rolex manufacturing processes at the time. It is speculated that a couple of batches of Paul Newman dials made for non-Oyster (without screw-down pushers) models were repurposed to be ftted on Oyster cases. Thus, the word Oyster was added under - “sotto” in Italian - the “Rolex Cosmograph” designation and these dials read “Rolex Cosmograph Oyster” (RCO, per their American nickname) rather than the usual “Rolex Oyster Cosmograph”. Oyster Sotto timepieces are indisputably regarded as “Holy Grails” of Daytona collecting, matched in appeal and collectability only by few bespoken Daytona variations. Even within this extremely rare dial family, an evolution of the graphics can be found. The most appealing examples are those belonging to the frst series (or “Mark I” dials - as the one ofered here), which features an “old school” Rolex signature, with less prominent serifs than the signature found on Mark II dials. Mark I dials are known to be ftted on 2’085’xxx pieces, while Mark II examples are found on cases close to 2’2 Million.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 “Oyster Sotto”
153.
A very fne, extremely rare and highly important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Oyster Sotto” Paul Newman dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6263, case back stamped 6239 to the inside
Case No.
2’085’537
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman
Material
Stainless steel
“Oyster Sotto” a.k.a. “RCO” Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 $402,000-804,000 €356,000-712,000
Given the rarity of the variation, the collector community at large rejoices when a new specimen is discovered. The present example, however, is not only a newly discovered Oyster Sotto, but it is furthermore preserved in absolutely original condition, down to the very last detail: crown, millerighe pushers, caseback stamped 6239, bezel. Everything is as the scholar would expect and the originality is boosted by the outstanding condition. The case boasts crisp edges and only minor signs of wear; it has most probably never been polished and only sparsely used in its early years. The 2’085’537 serial number (perfectly falling in the 2’085’xxx range expected from a Mark I Sotto dial) is as crisp as ever. Since its purchase in the late 1980s by the current owner, the piece has peacefully slept in the darkness of a safety deposit box, used maybe once or twice in total. The dial condition is simply breathtaking: without any kind of marks or scratches, absolutely fawless graphics, and all luminous accents present and aged to a light ivory hue. It is not an overstatement to say that the present specimen not only is a new discovery, but it is also one of the most exemplary preserved Oyster Sotto to ever appear on the market. A true “Crown Jewel” for all collectors of highly important timepieces.
ROLEX Ref. 6263 “Oyster Sotto”
154.
An impressive and attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1976
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
5’060’433
Model Name
Cosmograph
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold folding clasp stamped D
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 O $121,000-181,000 €107,000-160,000 Provenance Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, Christie’s Geneva November 10, 2013: Lot 28.
Launched in approximately 1969, reference 6265 was produced alongside its sibling reference 6263. Made for less than 20 years it is believed that less than 2000 gold versions of the reference 6263 and 6265 were cased in either 18K or 14K yellow gold. From the late 1970s, early 1980s and onwards, gold examples featured a movement number engraved on the plate, behind the balance wheel. This was related to the ofcially certifed chronometer movement. Around this period, Rolex modifed the dial layout for gold versions, and the “COSC” designation was printed on the dial. Having previously been sold at the historical Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” thematic sale, the present watch most notably features the signature of Tifany & Co below the “COSC” text at 12 o’clock. Few retailers have a relationship with Rolex like Tifany & Co. The jeweler has proudly emblazoned its logo on a variety of Rolex wristwatches, ranging from the GMT-Master to the Cosmograph Daytona. The present timepiece is preserved in excellent and impressive condition. The case is incredibly crisp, and all gold marks and hallmarks are present and sharp beneath the lugs. The dial itself is preserved beautifully, with the subsidiary registers starting to turn a slight brown hue.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “Tifany & Co.”
155.
ROLEX – A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial and “Big Logo” bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1960
Reference No.
5508 inside caseback stamp III.1958
Case No.
400’096
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex “Big Logo” bracelet, reference 6636, end links stamped 80, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex “Big Logo”
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
deployant clasp stamped 4.59
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 O $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300
The history of the “no crown guard” Submariner is marked by several milestones. Launched in 1953, the very frst serially produced Submariner wristwatch carried the designated reference 6204. Displaying pencil hands and luminous numerals, it was an incredibly important aid for dives. Rolex eventually developed other “small crown” models, such as references 6205, 6536/6538, 6536 and 6536/1, while references 6200, 6538 and 5510 were ftted with a “large” crown. Reference 5508 was the last Submariner to carry the “100m=330f” depth rating. In production from 1957 until the early 1960s, reference 5508 is known as the “James Bond” Submariner in the collecting community. This particular example is very well-preserved over time. The case is in excellent condition with sharp bevels and crisp edges. Furthermore, the inside case back is stamped III.1958, which is correct. This timepiece comes with a “Big Logo” Rolex bracelet, which is particularly beloved by collectors today.
156.
ROLEX – A fne and extremely well preserved stainless steel automatic wristwatch with 24-hour indication, date, bracelet and Guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
1655, inside case back stamped “1655” and “II.72”
Movement No.
D’089’717
Case No.
3’251’044
Model Name
Steve McQueen, Freccione
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “580” and “78360” to the endlinks, max length 195mm.
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “T4” and “78360”
Estimate CHF 12,000-24,000 $12,100-24,100 €10,700-21,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Attestation stamped by Baltimore retailer A.H. Fetting co. and dated April 25, 1978.
One of the most recognizable Rolex models, ref. 1655 was launched in 1971 and remained in production until 1985. It was an eminently professional timepiece, created to suit the needs of speleologists: the abundance of luminous details is ideal for the very low light condition of a cave, and the bright orange 24-hour hand was added to help explorers keep track of the day/night cycle when spending extended amount of time in a sunless environment.
The dial of the model undergoes a subtle evolution, with 5 versions (marks) recognized for standard production, and two additional service dial variations known (one with tritium, the other currently in production with luminova). The present iteration is a Mark II dial, easily recognizable by the “frog’s foot” crown - identifed by its unusual and uneven design, somewhat similar to the footprint of an amphibian’s paw - and the short, serif-less design of the “Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed” designation. Such dials can be found on serial numbers between 2.5M and 5.5M, thus perfectly ftting the present 3.25M case number The bezel as well presents an evolution, with 4 production versions and one service version. The present specimen mounts a Mark III bezel, also absolutely ftting for the serial number and furthermore fully matching the overall excellent condition of the case. Ofered complete of its original Guarantee dated 1978 (thus denoting that the present model made in 1972 took 6 years to fnd an owner, a very common situation for models dedicated to a restricted group of professionals such as speleologists) the present piece impresses with the astounding condition of both case and dial which classify it without the doubt as one of the most attractive examples to grace an auction room in recent times.
157.
A fne, attractive and very well preserved stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, exclamation mark dial and pointed crown guards
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1961
Reference No.
5512
Movement No.
D17’401
Case No.
661’971 inside caseback further stamped 1.61
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex ftted box.
The Submariner line is not only one of the best known in Rolex’s production, it also presents one of the most interesting evolutions - especially in its frst years of production - which yielded some of the rarest and most collectible timepieces on the market. The present example is a very early version of reference 5512. Launched in 1959, the model was the frst Submariner to feature crown guards, and it is distinguished by its chronometer-certifed movement.
The present early production piece from 1961 is particularly attractive as it reunites a multitude of unusual and sought-afer traits, making it an extremely collectible piece. The black glossy dial presents a radium dot at 6 o’clock unmistakably identifying this as an “exclamation mark” dial - the name coming from the ensemble dot and index, which resembles an exclamation mark. Such dials were in production only during a short period of time between 1961 and 1962 and are one of the frst attempts to identify a lower radiation count compared to earlier dials. In fact, the harmful efect of radiation was at that time in the process of being identifed and regulated. Exclamation mark dials still feature radium - tritium will come immediately afer - but in much lower amount than earlier specimens. The case also boasts a particularly collectible trait: the pointed crown guards (or “Cornino” – literally “small horn” in Italian). The genesis of this detail is extremely interesting. The very frst crown-guard cases featured large square crown guards. When clients complained about the bulkiness of this feature, Rolex fled away the square crown guard of the cases they had in stock, leaving only a small pointed guard. Thus, the “Cornino” was born. Successive cases will be produced with the fat crown guard which became the standard for the reference. The black glossy exclamation mark dial, pointed crown guards and overall attractive condition make this timepiece a watch for the shrewd collector of rare Submariners.
ROLEX Ref. 5512 “Exclamation Mark”
158.
An impressive and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, center seconds, tobacco “tropical” dial, helium escape valve and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
1665 inside caseback stamped IV.67 and 764
Movement No.
D’999’902
Case No.
1’719’764
Model Name
Sea-Dweller
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 280, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped G
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200
Launched in 1967, the Sea-Dweller is the ultimate tool watch. Originally conceived for dive expeditions, the model was ofcially introduced for civilian use in 1967. While the earliest prototype examples featured single line bearing “Sea-Dweller” in red, Rolex later printed both the depth rating and SeaDweller signature in red. The Sea-Dweller’s biggest technical innovation was the helium escape valve. During the 1960s, most watches did not have the capacity to submerge into great depths without breaking. The Helium Escape Valve allowed helium gas, which built up underwater, to be released during decompression. This impressive Sea-Dweller is ftted with a Mk2 dial, which has turned a beautiful and even tobacco tone over time. Correct for a 1.7 million serial number, Mk2 dials are distinguished by the small base of the coronet. It is remarkable how even and rich the brown tone is. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent condition with incredibly crisp bevels and sharp edges. The inside caseback is furthermore stamped with the last three digits of the serial number, which is correct. Of particular note is the “PATETED” engraving on the bracelet. Rolex had made a typo when manufacturing the bracelets and mounted them anyway. Today, these bracelets are particularly sought-afer by collectors.
ROLEX Ref. 1665 Double Red Sea-Dweller “Tropical”
159.
A rare, attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, bracelet and additional “Mk1” acrylic bezel
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
2’004’745
Model Name
Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, one end link stamped 57, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.67
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 130,000-180,000 $131,000-181,000 €116,000-160,000 Accessories Accompanied by an additional Rolex Mk 1 acrylic Daytona bezel.
An archetypal “Paul Newman” Daytona, this reference 6239 perfectly embodies the Hollywood legend. It is immediately recognizable thanks to its three-dimensional ivory dial with “Art Deco style” numerals. It was during the flming of “Winning” that Paul Newman fell in love with racing. His wife, Joanne Woodward, consequently gifed this exact Daytona variant to her husband, inscribed with phrase “DRIVE CAREFULLY ME”. It is thanks to this particular design that exotic-dialed Cosmographs are now synonymous with the philanthropic icon. Having resided in a private collection for many years, this timepiece is preserved in impressive condition and has aged gracefully over time. Showcasing full lugs, the satin fnishes are crisp. The lug-holes remain a considerable distance from the edge of the case, evidence of its original condition. Most notably, this watch is ofered with an additional acrylic Rolex “Mk 1” Daytona bezel in addition to the original one. Preferring the watch with black acrylic, the consigner had worn this timepiece ofen with the accompanying bezel in the past. Reference 6239 was introduced in 1963, which was a breakthrough year for Rolex. Named the “Cosmograph”, the model featured for the very frst time a tachymeter scale on the bezel. While originally announced as the “Le Mans” it was eventually called “Daytona”.
ROLEX Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
160.
A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel military diver’s wristwatch with rotating bezel, fxed bar lugs, and military engravings, made for the British Navy
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1972
Reference No.
5513
Case No.
2,940,835, the last three digits repeated inside
The Rolex Submariner “Milsub” is certainly one of the most popular and coveted models from Rolex because of their rarity (these watches were issued to servicemen and never available for sale) and the aura of adventure and adrenaline that surrounds them.
the caseback. Caseback exterior further stamped with military issued numbers 0552/923-7697 and unit number 785-72, caseback interior further
The present watch ticks all the boxes that make collector’s hearts beat faster.
stamped III.70 Model Name
Submariner, “MilSub”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
NATO, further accompanied by a Rolex Oyster bracelet
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 110,000-190,000 $111,000-191,000 €97,900-169,000 Accessories Accompanied by letter from Lt. Paul Henke confrming the watch was his, service documents and photos of Paul Henke.
Made for the British Royal Navy according to their specifcations, the “Milsub” is a modifed Submariner reference 5513 featuring wide sword-shaped hands for enhanced readability and an encircled “T” on the dial, indicating the use of luminescent tritium. The MOD (Ministry of Defense) also required a hacking seconds and permanent, fxed spring bars welded to the lugs to prevent the ftting of a refective bracelet. Another noticeable diference between the military and civilian models are their case back engravings – the present lot marked with the “0552” code for British Ministry of Defense, “9237697”, the NATO code, followed by the issue number. “785” and year of issue, “72”. When decommissioned, they were sold by the MOD during the 1980s, and purchased by civilians and dealers who ofen replaced or removed the military-specifc components - the encircled T dial, sword hands, 60’ bezel, engraved case back, and fxed spring bars - to transform them into more commercial, “civilianized” Submariners. Thus, very few MilSubs have survived with their “military-spec” confgurations.
ROLEX Ref. 5513 “MilSub Lieutenant Paul Henke”
The present watch was issued in 1972 but was presented to Lieutenant Paul Henke in 1975 when he qualifed as a mine warfare and clearance diving ofcer in the Royal Navy. At the time he was lieutenant and second-in-command of a Royal Navy minehunter. Having trained at Dartmouth Royal Naval College Paul Henke qualifed as a bomb and mine disposal expert, specialising in diving and handling explosives. He led a crack team of underwater bomb disposal specialists and also became the Commanding Ofcer of various minesweeping and minehunting ships. He served in Northern Ireland, where he survived a machine gun attack in 1976. Today, Paul Henke is a full time writer with 15 books published.
Afer leaving the army Paul Henke ofered the watch to his son who wore it with an Oyster bracelet with the links folded over the fxed bars. Afer having treasured it for over 27 years the son has decided to ofer it at auction. Considering that Paul Henke wore the watch on his missions the watch is in very good condition. The bezel was swapped afer servicing. Both the reference and serial numbers fnely engraved between the lugs are clearly legible, the reference number and the last three digits of the serial number are repeated to the inside of the caseback, as the connoisseur would expect. The “Milsub” is one of the rarest Rolex Submariners on the market, fnding one fresh to the market, from family of the original owner with such pedigree make this example a must have for the discerning collector.
161.
An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, helium escape valve, “double red” Mk I dial, patent pending case and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
1665 inside caseback stamped IV.67
Movement No.
D’390’518
Case No.
2’128’245
Model Name
“Patent Pending” Sea-Dweller “Double Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel “Patent Pending” Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.70
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-100,000 $70,400-101,000 €62,300-89,000
The Rolex Sea-Dweller is one of the world’s most eminent dive watches. Launched in 1967, it was originally conceived for dive expeditions. The Sea-Dweller’s biggest technical innovation was the helium escape valve. During the 1960s, most watches did not have the capacity to submerge into great depths without breaking. The Helium Escape Valve allowed helium gas, which built up underwater, to be released during decompression. The present watch, known as the “Mk 1 Patent Pending” is one of the earliest known serially produced reference 1665s. This timepiece displays a Mk 1 dial, which is characterized by Sea-Dweller on the frst line, and Submariner 2000 on the second. The signature consists of red print on top of white that has faded to a light pink tone. The caseback is stamped “Oyster Gas Escape Valve ‘Patent Pending’”, which is correct for frst generation Sea-Dwellers. There is furthermore a small hole near the teeth of the outer caseback - this is correct, as Rolex drilled a hole to hold the caseback in place while they engraved the text on the outer rim. As another added bonus, the bracelet is stamped “Pat. Pend.” which is correct for the period. Displaying a 2.128 million serial number, this timepiece is preserved in crisp condition with sharp bevels and good proportions throughout.
ROLEX Ref. 1665 Double Red Sea Dweller “Patent Pending”
162.
A rare and attractive white gold chronograph wristwatch with original certifcate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5170
Movement No.
5’902’937
Case No.
6’074’405
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. CH 29-535 PS, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated November 24, 2015, product literature, leather wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 2010, reference 5170 has undergone a number of transformations, with the very frst model cased in yellow gold. In 2013 a white gold version was launched, featuring white pulsometer scale. The model most notably features the caliber 29-535 PS with the Patek Philippe Seal. Introduced at Basel in 2015, this iteration of reference 5170 displays an attractive black dial with Breguet numerals and feuille hands. The launch of this model provided a novel aesthetic for the beloved model. Ofered in excellent condition, this timepiece must have been worn a few times only. It is furthermore accompanied by all its original accessories such as the Certifcate of Origin, product literature, wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5170
163.
A rare and attractive white gold annual calendar chronograph wristwatch with original certifcate, setting pin, sales tag and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2018
Reference No.
5960
Movement No.
5’928’628
Case No.
6’205’349
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
40.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin dated January 10, 2018, setting pin, sales tag, sales receipt, product literature, wallet and presentation box.
First introduced in 2006, reference 5960 was Patek Philippe’s frst self-winding chronograph wristwatch with an annual calendar complication. The reference was frst launched in platinum with grey dial. Patek Philippe later released variants in pink gold and stainless steel. The latest iteration features a white gold case with blue dial, giving it a sporty and novel appearance, which at the time of cataloging, is still in current production. Ofered in excellent condition, this timepiece is replete with all its original accessories such as the sales tag, Certifcate of Origin dated January 10, 2018, ftted presentation box and setting pin.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5960
164.
A very rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with two tone dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
1463
Movement No.
868’577
Case No.
679’115
Model Name
“Tasti Tondi”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-200,000 $121,000-201,000 €107,000-178,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production in 1953 and subsequent sale on November 30, 1954. Literature A similar example of this reference is illustrated in Patek Philippe Genève by Martin Huber and Alan Banbery, page 267.
The discovery of a Patek Philippe reference 1463, fresh to the market and from the family of the original owner is always an exhilarating moment. The reference 1463 is one of the most popular vintage chronograph wristwatches on the market today and is even
more favored than it was at the time of production, due to its robust case proportions and oversized chronograph pushers. Manufactured from approximately 1940 to 1969, the reference is playfully dubbed “Tasti Tondi” due to its large waterproof round pushers. The two tone dial is preserved in superb condition with strong contrast between the outer silver section and the cream colored centre. It also features incredibly strong enamel graphics, with the “accent” strong and apparent above the Patek Philippe Genève signature. There are no losses to the enamel, attesting to the completely untouched condition of the dial. 176 yellow gold reference 1463 models were known up till today and only 17 of them with a two tone silver dial. Only one other example was known until the discovery of the present watch with Fab. Suisse signature indicating that the watch was intended for the French market, this is confrmed by the JG hallmark on the caseback. JG stands for Jean Guillermin, a prominent French Patek Philippe retailer of the time. One could furthermore easily wax lyrical about the case which features two sharp hallmarks on the back of the lug and in between the pushers. The bezel retains its strong defnition and even the crown remains original. The original owner of the watch was an avid traveler and the watch was most probably bought during one of his trips to Paris in the 1950s. A true barn fnd, the present watch ticks all the boxes that quicken the pulses of collectors: superb condition, ultimate rarity and freshness to the market.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi Two-Tone Dial”
165.
A rare and attractive yellow gold minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch with original certifcate, chronometer certifcate, additional caseback and presentation box, retailed at Beyer Chronometrie Zürich
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2004
Reference No.
3939
Movement No.
1’903’073
Case No.
2’906’875
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. RTO 27 PS, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 160,000-250,000 $161,000-251,000 €142,000-222,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated 3 January 2005, Contrôle Ofciel Suisse des Chronomètres Watch Rate Certifcate, additional case back, product literature, instruction manual, leather wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
First launched in 1993, reference 3939 is one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic and important models ever produced. Elegant and subtle, it captures the spirit of the Genevan watchmaker through its technical mastery, combining a minute repeating mechanism with a tourbillon complication - all housed within the confnes of a 33 millimeter case. It furthermore boasts a beautiful enamel dial with Breguet numerals. Assembling a minute repeater typically requires 200 to 300 hours of work, and the gongs display a rich, deep yet delicate resonance that Patek Philippe is best known for. Most notably, the present watch is a later series example, as it is ftted with a larger crown intended to prevent overwinding the mechanism. Preserved in excellent condition, the watch furthermore repeats in phase with a beautiful tone and clarity. It is complete with an additional caseback, Contrôle Ofciel Suisse des Chronomètres Watch Rate Certifcate and Original certifcate, stating the watch was sold at Beyer Chronometrie on 2 January, 2005.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3939 “Beyer”
166.
A fne, rare and elegant yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with champagne dial and Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1919
Reference No.
11
Movement No.
194’173
Case No.
286’196
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 10’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold period correct pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Length, 25.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1919 and its subsequent sale on June 12, 1920.
Wristwatches are a relatively modern custom. Until the early 1900s, watches used to be pocket timepieces (even though early exceptions exist). It is only with the advent of WWI that ofcers began wearing watches on their wrist for true life-or-death reasons: the few additional seconds and the loss of concentration due to the extraction of the watch from the pocket might lead to dire consequences in the trenches. Once the confict was over, however, the public realized how much more convenient having a watch on the wrist is even in non-confictual circumstances, and the trend caught on. The present piece is thus an extremely early example of wristwatch, produced in 1919 and sold on June 12, 1920. Beyond the historical interest, it is undeniable that the piece is stunning: the gilded dial with enameled Breguet numerals - a confguration fully confrmed by the extract - is simply breathtaking, wonderfully executed and in surprisingly good condition for a timepiece more than a century old. Additional details such as the oval railway divisions, curved Patek Philippe & Co. signature and caseback signed and bearing the case number to the outside - all excellently preserved - add to the already enormous charme and appeal of this fascinating timepeice.
PATEK PHILIPPE “Hinged Curvex with Graduating Breguet Numerals”
167.
An extremely fne and rare pink gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with pink dial
A historically important model, reference 1436 is a horological marvel. The frst split seconds chronograph wristwatch that Patek Philippe ever produced in a series, the model was originally launched in 1938. Most impressively, the rattrapante chronograph mechanism is housed within the confnes of a 33 millimeter case. Predominantly produced in yellow gold, the model was very rarely cased in pink gold. Research suggests that less than 9 examples have survived in pink gold, with exceedingly few examples featuring a pink dial, such as the present watch.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1436 “Pink on Pink”
167.
An extremely fne and rare pink gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with pink dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1940
Reference No.
1436
Movement No.
862’536
Case No.
624’970
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-500,000 O $302,000-503,000 €267,000-445,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with rose dial, raised gold hourmarkers and tachymetre scale in 1940 and its subsequent sale on April 13, 1942.
This watch combines the rarest and most desirable features of the reference and is nothing short of stunning. The pink gold case is preserved in impressive condition with sharp facets and fnishes throughout. A hallmark is clearly punched to the lef band, along with another on the upper right lug. The unsigned crown is correct and original. Early examples featured a crown that would act as a button to split and reunite the two seconds chronograph hands. It was only later that the crown was ftted with a co-axial push button to reunite the split seconds function. The beauty of the watch lies in its extraordinary pink dial. The long signature is correct and all commas and accents are visible and present. Most importantly, the dial is confrmed by the Extract from the Archives, which states the watch was sold with rose dial and tachymeter scale in 1940. It is a rare and extremely notable occasion when the Extract confrms this important detail, further enhancing the collectibility and value of this spectacular timepiece.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1436 “Pink on Pink”
168.
A rare and attractive gilt brass and green leather dome clock with applied marine-style gilt ornaments and presentation inscription
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
709
Movement No.
872’597
Case No.
120
Material
Gilt brass and leather
Calibre
Cal. 17’’’250, 29 jewels
Dimensions
210mm Height
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, base with inscription “Au Dr. W. Lützelschwab En Signe D’amitie et en Souvenir de L’immeuble Pax a Genève 9 Mai 1959”
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,100-50,300 €22,200-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present clock in 1953 with dome in green leather with marine-style decoration in gilt brass, engraved text on the dome base and its subsequent sale on May 4, 1959.
Displaying a marine-style decoration, the present dome clock features a beautiful green leather exterior in lieu of cloisonné enamel, both of which are confrmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives. While one panel displays an anchor, others depict a globe, sword/sphere and a compass. The base of the dome clock is engraved “Au Dr. W. Lützelschwab En Signe D’amitie et en Souvenir de L’immeuble Pax à Genève 9 Mai 1959”. The engraving is also mentioned in the Extract from the Archives. One can surmise that Dr. W. Lützelschwab was inextricably tied with L’immeuble Pax. Further research reveals that Wilhelm Lützelschwab was born on January 30, 1905 in Latvia. He moved to Switzerland at age 14. Rising through the ranks in civil service, he eventually became involved in public afairs and the Swiss Intelligence Service. Lützelschwab was known as an expert in matters relating to the political police. From 1949 to 1975, he was involved in the management of “Pax” life insurance company. Leather clocks are extremely rare to come by. To date, no more than a handful have reappeared on the market. Leather is particularly prone to faking and breaking down due to moisture and the elements. To fnd one fresh to the auction market is nothing short of a spectacular discovery.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 709 “Marine”
169.
An extremely fne, highly attractive and unique gilt brass solar powered dome clock with cloisonné enamel abstract scene and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1956
Reference No.
730
Movement No.
872’559
Case No.
92
Model Name
“Abstract in blue, grey and red”
Material
Gilt brass and cloisonné enamel
Calibre
cal. 17.250 photo electric cell
Dimensions
210mm Height
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $101,000-201,000 €89,000-178,000 Accessories Accompanied by its original presentation box and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present dome clock in 1956 with blue-grey abstract motif cloisonné enamel and its subsequent sale on September 26, 1956.
In 1948, Patek Philippe inaugurated its Electronic Division with the aim of researching on photoelectric, electronic and nuclear technology to power clocks. Within two years, the department succeeded in creating the frst solar clock. The caliber 17-250 was ftted with a small rotatable solar panel on the top of the dome supplying energy to a storage device, which in turn transmitted energy to the mechanical movement. A Swiss
patent was awarded to Patek Philippe for clocks ftted with photo-electric cells. Patek Philippe’s idea for a light-powered horological mechanism was to introduce additional electronic storage – an accumulator that provides the energy to wind the spring. The photoelectric cells can either store their energy electronically in the accumulator, or mechanically by winding the spring. When the mechanism is fully wound, the cells switch over to charge the accumulator. According to research, the frst fully operational dome clock lef the manufacture in 1953. As a mainstay and crown jewel within the manufacture’s collection, the production remained very small in due part to the enamellers’ painstaking enameller’s work to complete the case’s decoration. Usually dedicated to nature, mythical creatures and even history, the present dome clock, from 1956 displays an unusual abstract scene. Titled “Abstract in blue, grey and red” in the Patek Philippe Archives, it represents some of the fnest cloisonné work of the mid 1950s. The abstract nature of this clock uses form, color, and line that are typical of the period and remind us of paintings by Miro or ceramic furniture design of the mid-century. To the best of our knowledge, this dome clock represents one of the very earliest examples to have been produced by the Geneva manufacture. In excellent overall condition it is a must-have for the discerning connoisseur seeking to own one of Patek Philippe’s rarest and most prestigious timepieces.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 730 “Abstract in Blue, Grey and Red”
170.
IWC – A highly attractive and well-preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date aperture, and box
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
812 AD
Movement No.
2’125’113
Case No.
1’937’796
Model Name
Aquatimer
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 8541B, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Tropic
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,000-12,100 €7,100-10,700 Accessories Accompanied by period correct IWC presentation box.
Some of the most important dive watches of the 20th century were introduced in the mid 1950s following World War II, incorporating technological advances developed during the war. A late entrant to this market was IWC. While they followed nearly a decade afer others, the Aquatimer remains a distinguished model for both its aesthetics and engineering excellence. Released in 1967 and produced in far fewer examples than competing dive watches, the reference 812 AD is an iconic IWC watch for connoisseurs. The Aquatimer has a modern, sleek appeal with a ‘super compressor’ case that has less bulk compared with other dive watches of the era. A timing ring placed underneath the crystal replaces the outer rotating bezel. This works as a safety mechanism, keeping the bezel from being bumped and accidentally changing the time, as well as giving the watch a fatter profle. Further, the in-house caliber 8541 movement features the innovative “Pellaton” winding system, patented by IWC in 1950. This horological innovation uses a bi-directional rotor improved efciency, giving greater winding power.
171.
IWC – A fne and rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, luminous dial, date, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
Circa 1959
Reference No.
666
Movement No.
1’433’173
Case No.
1’469’141
Model Name
Ingenieur
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 8521, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,000-8,000 €4,400-7,100 Accessories Accompanied by undated IWC Guarantee, ftted presentation box, hang tag and outer packaging.
According to the archives of IWC, the present watch was sold to Tokyo wholesaler Shiro on August 18, 1959. The term “New Old Stock” (NOS) may have been abused, in recent times, to describe wristwatches in very good condition. It should however be reserved to those pieces which are indeed in “as new” condition being part of an old unsold stock, or watches bought and never used.
In fact, the present timepiece is one of those rare examples which fully deserves, without exaggeration, the NOS qualifcation. Ofered in absolutely unworn condition, it can be used as a scholarly example of how an Ingenieur looked like when purchased from a retailer in the late 1950s. The presence of its original box and Guarantee - rigorously undated, as expected from an unsold timepiece - represents the fnal touch which propels this specimen into pure horological perfection: simply put, it is impossible to fnd a better example than this one, and furthermore it would be unimaginably difcult to fnd another one in a condition even approaching that of the present piece: the very defnition of “unmissable opportunity” for collectors of vintage watches at any level.
172.
ZENITH – A very rare and remarkably well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tropical panda dial and original presentation box
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
A384
Case No.
231E591
Model Name
El Primero
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3019 PHC, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Original Zenith leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Zenith pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-8,000 $6,000-8,000 €5,300-7,100 Accessories Accompanied by undated guarantee, product literature, two hang tags, and inner and outer presentation boxes.
One of the most celebrated automatic movements of modern watchmaking, the name “El Primero” refers to both the movement (translating to “the frst” in Spanish) and the line of watches Zenith debuted featuring this movement. Launched in 1969, the El Primero caliber was simply revolutionary. It was one of the very frst automatic chronograph movements ever created, and furthermore, it was designed as a wholly integrated chronograph movement rather than being an automatic movement with an added chronograph module. Additionally, it operates at 36,000 VPH, an astoundingly
high frequency for a mechanical watch, ensuring superior timekeeping performance. The story of the El Primero is not only a study in mechanical engineering, but is also fraught with drama: the equipment to produce the El Primero was condemned during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and set to be destroyed, but was heroically rescued by one Charles Vermot who had covertly hidden the equipment in an attic. When Zenith won the contract to produce the ébauche for the upcoming automatic Daytona based on the existence of lefover assembled movements, Vermot was instrumental in the reuncovering of the methods to produce the El Primero. 2,600 examples were produced of this specifc reference A384, yet it is safe to assume that few of them have been preserved in this truly “New Old Stock” condition. The tropicalization of the subdials and tachymeter track is endemic in this reference, and can span the color spectrum from close to the original black to a light brown cappuccino hue. This particular example displays a beautifully even dark chocolate color, with the outer tachymeter track perfectly complementing the color of the subdials, and both set of by the impeccably preserved matte white dial. With a full complement of original accessories, this is a unique opportunity to own a relic of horological history.
173.
ULYSSE NARDIN – A very attractive, rare and large stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tropical black dial and tachymeter bezel
Manufacturer
Ulysse Nardin
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
7536-2
Movement No.
7’500’960
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. N 13 B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300
It's got it all: the looks and the tone of the iconic Cosmograph Daytona. Not only the case design but also the dial with its subsidiary dials and hour markers closely resemble Rolex’s widely acclaimed chronograph. But this highly attractive wristwatch, made by Ulysse Nardin, has features of its own that make it singularly important. First, the Reference 7536-2 is slightly larger than its peer. The watch is housed in a masculine stainless steel round case, with the pleasing proportions and balance found on the most desirable watches from the 1960s. But at 38mm in diameter, the watch ofers just a little more presence on the wrist. Second, the black bezel on the present piece is itself noteworthy. While it looks like an insert, turning the watch sideways reveals the bezel is made from a single piece of anodized aluminum which meets the surface of the caseband and lugs. Finally, the watch is incredibly rare. Unlike similar chronographs, the Reference 7536-2 failed to fnd a permanent place in its manufacturer’s production. Very few such models have been discovered, making the present piece, found in overall very good condition, a very desirable chronograph.
174.
A highly attractive and rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch with black lacquer dial and gilt triple scale
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1940
Movement No.
9’383’738
Case No.
9’174’312
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 33.3, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Omega buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700
During the 1930s and early 1940s, Swiss watch manufactures were just beginning to innovate techniques and produce watches meant as tools, rather than time-telling wrist adornments. In the early 1940s, Omega excelled in creating multi-scale chronographs, complete with tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer scales, that were equaled in their practicality only by their beauty. The present example, cased in 18K pink gold, with a glossy galvanic black dial ofset by copper, silver, and gold printed scales, has retained its delicate charisma for over seven decades. Underneath the gorgeous dial beats Omega’s manuallywound chronograph caliber 33.3. Originally manufactured by Lemania and introduced in 1933 as a monopusher chronograph, it was redesigned in the late 1930s and placed within the manufacture’s fnest two-pusher chronographs. Research shows the present lot was delivered to South America in 1940. With its well-preserved case, resplendent dial, and charming wrist presence, the present Omega chronograph will certainly be a colorful and exquisite addition to any horological collection.
OMEGA “Multi-Scale Dial”
175.
A fne and very rare chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and special orange chronograph hand
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
145.012-67 SP
Movement No.
26’079’176
Model Name
Speedmaster, “Ultraman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production in 1968.
The present Omega Speedmaster reference 145.012 is the love child of horology and Japanese manga culture. In the mid-1960s, Japanese director Eiji Tsuburaya (co-creator of the original Godzilla series) began writing what would become the Ultraman series. Ultraman begins with an intergalactic being (Ultraman) accidentally colliding with and killing a member of Earth’s Science Special Search Party (SSSP), Shin Hayata. Feeling remorseful, Ultraman merges his own life force with Hayata’s and vows to defend Earth against any that would seek to threaten it. Ultraman lives within Hayata, who transforms into Ultraman when the need arises. While Hayata is a normal man, Ultraman is a 40 meter tall silver and red-orange creature. His crested head and large, intimidating eyes became instantly iconic, as did his orange and silver suit. The catch was that Ultraman could only fght for three minutes before his energy was depleted.
In 1971, Tsuburaya’s son spearheaded the production of Ultraman Returns, where a diferent iteration of Ultraman – Ultraman Jack – returns to Earth and teams up with the Monster Attack Team. According to Omega, the producers of Ultraman Returns selected Omega’s “Moonwatch” as part of the Monster Attack Team’s monster fghting kit, difering from the other Speedmasters of the time by the adjunction of an orange central seconds hand. Not only the wrist wear of choice of alien superheros, the reference 145.012-67 also graced the wrists of astronauts on Apollo 11, Apollo 14, and Apollo-Soyuz. It was the last Speedmaster model to be ftted with the renowned caliber 321 and is set apart from its predecessors by its ‘SP’ (‘SP’ for “special pushers”) that increased water resistance. Though it is not known why a selection of the reference 145.012-67 were ftted with an orange chronograph hand – legibility is one theory – it is estimated that less than ffy correct examples exist with this bold, colorful detail. In order to be truly called an “Ultraman”, the watch must be examined in person by Omega and accompanied with a note on the archival extract. These watches typically fall within a certain serial number range between 26’076’XXX and 26’079’XXX. With the introduction of the successful “Speedy Tuesday” Ultraman limited edition in 2018, interest in vintage Ultraman Speedmasters has dramatically increased. This watch was delivered to the US Army (European Exchange System), a retailer supplying all types of goods on U.S. Army and Air Force installations worldwide, adding extra appeal to the timepiece. In overall excellent condition, having been part of an important private collection for decades, the Ultraman is back!
OMEGA Ref. 145.012-67 SP Speedmaster “Ultraman”
176.
A fne and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Broad Arrow hands and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1959
Reference No.
2915-2
Movement No.
16’648’605
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 Jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel semi expandable bracelet with
endlinks stamped 6, max length 175mm Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1959 and delivery to France. Further accompanied by Omega invoice for creation of a new bezel
The Speedmaster is not only one of horology’s best known models and still in production more 60 years afer its launch but the original models with the so called “Broad Arrow” hands have become amongst the most coveted sports watches of the era.
The frst generation model, reference CK 2915 launched in 1957, is considered by collectors as “the grail” for a number of reasons. In terms of design, it was the frst chronograph to feature a tachymeter scale (or, as Omega called it at the time, the Tacho-productometer scale) on the bezel, rather than on the dial. In terms of movements, Omega did not go for a brand new caliber, turning instead to caliber 321, an extremely robust and reliable column-wheel chronograph, which it recognized as the best available option for its new Speedmaster. In production only between 1957 and 1959, the reference 2915 was produced in three diferent iterations: -1, -2, and -3. CK2915-1 and -2 are the very frst – and most collectible Speedmaster models. They have unique diferences from all later generations of Speedmasters, most notably in their dial graphics and important elements of case design. The large “Broad Arrow” minute and hour hands are one such trait, but also the metal bezel - rather than a bezel with black insert - and slightly diferent dial graphics, distinguishable by the oval “O” of Omega. This oval will later become perfectly round. Also the case has details which would later be abandoned, such as the “Speedmaster” designation engraved on the slanted edge of the caseback rather than on the center. The present reference 2915-2 was originally made for the French market and was found by the current owner in France with an incorrect bezel. Omega was tasked to make a bezel specially for this watch as indicated in the Omega invoice that accompanies it. In overall appealing condition and ofered with its original semi-expandable bracelet with “6” end links the present watch ofers a wonderful value for the collector.
OMEGA Ref. 2915-2 Speedmaster “Broad Arrow”
177.
HEUER – A fne and rare yellow gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with date
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
circa 1971
Reference No.
1158CHN
Case No.
249’398
Model Name
Carrera “Ferrari”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold TAG Heuer pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200
Reference 1158CHN is known amongst collectors as the “Ferrari Carrera”. The watch was made famous in the 1970s by the many Grand Prix drivers such as Niki Lauda, Clay Regazzoni or Mario Andretti to name but a few, who were spotted wearing it on the racetrack. As part of the sponsorship he concluded with Ferrari, Jack Heuer himself was gifing this reference to drivers and brand ambassadors such as Jo Sifert or Ronnie Peterson. The present watch is a particularly nice and well preserved example. Powered by the automatic caliber 12, the crown has been moved from the right to the lef of the case as it is used only to set the time. This particularity would allow a more comfortable wear and diferentiated the manual winding watches from the automatic ones. It features two black subdials that are nicely completed with a silver date. At the time, reference 1158CHN was available with either a black or silver date. By combining Heuer’s strong sporty DNA with a dressy and elegant 18K yellow gold case, this watch embodies the glamorous era of the race track in the 1970s.
178.
HEUER – A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch made for the Argentinian Air Force
Manufacturer
Heuer
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
2446C
Case No.
145’035
Model Name
Autavia Argentinian Air Forces
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Gay Frères bracelet, end links stamped HLB, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Heuer deployant clasp stamped 1.70
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,100-18,100 €10,700-16,000
At frst glance, one can see that the present Autavia, 2446C, is characterized by the ‘compressor case’, hence the “C” afer the reference number. Introduced circa 1968, the compressor case was an alternative to screw down cases and insured waterproofness and robustness to the watch. The case became larger by 1mm than its predecessor, boasting 40mm case diameter. The present watch is also ftted with a bezel indicating only the hours.
But what makes the present watch special and distinguishes it from its peers is the engraving on the caseback. This watch had a totally diferent destiny than the normal production as it was commissioned by the Argentinian Air Force for their pilots. Bearing the FAA, Fuerza Aerea Argentina emblem along with the issued number 0823, the watch was on duty in the early 1970s. Jack Heuer designed the Autavia as the perfect chronograph for racing, using a strong contrasting color scheme on the dial to improve readability in precarious situations. This contrast between the color of the dial and the one of the subdials also made it a suitable watch to be used by Air Forces around the world. Despite its tumultuous life, this watch remains in very good condition and is still ftted with its original Gay Frères bracelet stamped 1.70.
179.
An extremely attractive and fne stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with multi scales and screw down caseback and crown
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1941
Reference No.
3525
Case No.
185’871
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Literature The reference 3525 is illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 102. Further examples can be seen in I Cronograf Rolex - La Leggenda by Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 162-192.
Launched in 1939, the reference 3525 can be considered as a milestone in Rolex’s rich history of chronographs as it was the brand’s very frst chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case, and equipped with a water resistant screw down caseback along with screw down crown. In production for less than 10 years, it was available in yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel or in a combination of stainless steel and gold with a large variety of dials. A certain air of sotto voce luxury exudes from the present watch thanks to the case’s perfect proportions and elegantly balanced silver dial design with multi scales. This particular watch is also very interesting as it is from the early generation of the reference. The serial and reference numbers are still stamped on the caseback while the later generation and future references will have them engraved between the lugs. In charismatic condition, the case is well preserved with the caseback full in its proportions with a crisp milled edge to the inner portion. The watch furthermore retains its original Oyster crown with Brevet logo. 180. NO LOT
ROLEX Ref. 3525 “Barilotto”
181.
A rare and attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’697’069
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 $60,300-101,000 €53,400-89,000
Known as the “Pre-Daytona”, reference 6238 was the very last chronograph model that Rolex produced following the introduction of the Cosmograph in 1963. This particular model was produced during the very last years of the reference’s production period. The date of manufacture most notably overlaps with the production period of reference 6239. Cased in 14K yellow gold, this reference 6238 is presented in impressive condition. A thick layer of multi-colored patina has developed throughout the case, demonstrating how the watch has seen very little intervention throughout its lifetime. Two hallmarks are visible and crisp beneath the lugs. The movement is stamped “ROW”, indicating export to the American market, which is ftting as the watch is cased in 14K yellow gold. This particular dial has been preserved in incredible condition and displays round, luminous dots that have aged evenly with the hands.
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
182.
An extremely rare, attractive and important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with luminous black glossy dial and bracelet
Introduced in the early 1960s, reference 6238 can be considered the link between the “old school� Rolex chronograph production and the Cosmograph Daytona. In fact, it features already an Oyster-style case (albeit lacking the screw pushers, which will be introduced with the Daytona reference 6240) and a 3-counter dial layout very similar to that of the Daytona. The model also shares the same calibre as the very early Daytona examples: Valjoux cal. 72B. The most notable diference is the presence of the tachymeter scale on the dial, which on the Cosmograph will be moved to the bezel. The tachymeter scale on the dial grants these watches an overall much more vintage look due to the fact the rest of the graphics have less space to develop - a situation accentuated by the smaller diameter of the model. The fnal result is a very complex dial design, defnitely closer to the style typical of the 1940s and 1950s, rather than the minimalist looks in fashion throughout the 1960s and 1950s. The dial of the present watch, however, goes well above and beyond what collectors are used to seeing on this model. In fact, it is an example of rare black glossy dial. Such dials were used in extremely restricted amounts at the very beginning of the 6238 production: any collector fnding such a dial would be immensely delighted, but fnding a black glossy 6238 dial in the condition of the one featured in the present piece can be considered a truly once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Miraculously, it would appear that the passage of time hardly lef any sign on it. The gloss fnish is present, free of any scratches and absolutely unclouded. The luminous material too is absolutely fawless and evenly aged to a charismatic hazelnut hue.
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona Black Glossy Dial”
182.
An extremely rare, attractive and important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with luminous black glossy dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
950’439
Model Name
Pre-Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster expandable bracelet stamped “57” to the endlinks, max. length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “3 64”
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $201,000-402,000 €178,000-356,000
The condition of the case is nearly as good as that of the dial: all proportions are respected and it does not present signs of careless polishing: the edges of the lugs are crisp, as is the one of the bezel. Even its original expandable bracelet is ofered in superior condition, with all the links properly returning to their place when the bracelet is released. The stamping 3 64 to the clasp indicates this bracelet was made in the third trimester of 1964, absolutely correct for a watch whose case dates to 1963. The present watch will satisfy the demands of the most fastidious vintage Rolex collectors and would without a doubt be counted among the crown jewels in any Rolex collection.
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona Black Glossy Dial”
183.
An attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and ftted box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1962
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
866,316
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel expandable riveted Oyster bracelet,
bridge further stamped ROW endlinks stamped RD 874089, max length 195mm Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp stamped 1.58
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200
The Rolex 6238 Chronograph is gaining in popularity thanks to its elegant and balanced design enabling it to be considered as a sports chronograph when worn with an Oyster bracelet or a more casual chic model when toned down with a leather strap. Produced for only seven short years from 1960 to 1967, the Rolex reference 6238 also called “Pre-Daytona” came either in a stainless steel or yellow gold case with a variety of dials silver, dark grey, black and rarer versions with blue or blue and red multiscale. The present reference 6238 comes with a dial with black and blue scales found habitually in the reference 6234, the immediate predecessor of the reference 6238. As the present watch is one of the very early reference 6238, created at a time when the reference 6234 was being phased out it is thus not unusual to see this combination. Rolex continued using dials of discontinued models in succeeding references showing the overlap and continuity of their designs.
184. NO LOT.
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
185.
A rare and extremely attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, box and a letter from the manufacture
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1947
Reference No.
4062 inside caseback further stamped 012
Case No.
597’010
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 23, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Rolex rice grain bracelet max length 215 mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.51
Dimensions
36 mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by the original Rolex box and a letter from the manufacture that attests the watch reference, material and year of production.
The Rolex chronograph reference 4062 was produced from 1942 until approximately 1963. The model was cased in a variety of metals, ranging from yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel, to stainless steel and gold combinations. The reference features a ribbed band as well as elongated tear drop lugs, giving the watch a very distinctive appearance that made the reference famous amongst collectors. Square pushers further complement the thin and elegant case. Along with the snap on caseback, the square pushers were soon to be replaced in order to increase the waterproofness of the watches. In overall excellent condition, the present watch still retains its extremely delicate and thin crown as well as the case number engraved on the caseback. The dial features the desirable multi scale and the designation “Antimagnetique” on the lower part of the dial. This distinctive combination is further complemented by a Rolex rice-grain bracelet made by Gay Frères giving the timepiece a timeless elegance. The present lot stands out from Rolex’s traditional production and will speak to the collector looking for a vintage “dress” chronograph of tasteful restraint and refnement.
ROLEX Ref. 4062
186.
A very fne and rare stainless steel wristwatch with date, moonphases, power reserve and bracelet, with factory service box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
3712/1A-001
Movement No.
3’171’567
Case No.
4’340’503
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 – PS IRM C LU, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus integrated bracelet
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe hidden clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe ftted box, Certifcate of Origin and factory service box.
Patek Philippe introduced reference 3712/1A in 2005, and it remained in production for approximately one year – some estimate as few as eight months. Its successor, the muchcoveted reference 5712/1, was launched in October of 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, alongside the references 5712R (the frst Nautilus to be ofered on a leather bracelet), 5800/1, 5980/1, and the highly successful 5711/1. Originally designed by world renowned Gerald Genta, the frst of the Nautilus family was presented in 1976. Reference 3712/1A was at the time of its launch, the most complicated version of the Nautilus made by Patek Philippe, which had previously only indicated the date. The letters following the ofcial name of the self-winding caliber 240 – PS IRM C LU – stand for “petites secondes” (small seconds), “indication de réserve de marche” (power reserve), “calendrier” (date), and “lune” (moon), all of which are present on the 3712 in an idiosyncratic but somehow harmonious arrangement. At frst glance, the 3712 appears quite similar to its successor, the 5712, but there are many noteworthy diferences when the watches’ details are examined. Most notably, the 3712 has a slightly smaller case measuring 42mm in diameter as it is constructed using only two pieces compared with the more rounded, three piece, 43mm case of the 5712. The dial of the reference 3712 features wider grooves, or channels, and diferent hour markers than its successor. A particularly subtle but well-studied detail is the presence of just three red dots on the power reserve indicator, versus four dots on the 5712, to indicate a low remaining power reserve. Appearing for the frst time at auction, still sealed in its factory service box, this rare Nautilus is sure to delight any collector of luxury steel sports watches.
Stock Photo for information. Not actual watch.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3712 “Service Sealed”
187.
An extremely fne and rare stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two-tone pink dial
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 130 Steel and Pink Gold “Pink Two-Tone Dial”
187.
An extremely fne and rare stainless steel and pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two-tone pink dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1947
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
867’185
Case No.
630’145
Material
18K pink gold and stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
33.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 O $151,000-251,000 €133,000-222,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in steel with gold bezel, silvered dial, applied gold hour markers and tachymeter scale in 1947 and its subsequent sale on June 25, 1948.
Reference 130 is one of the most diverse chronograph models that Patek Philippe ever produced. In production from 1936 until 1964, the model was cased in predominantly yellow gold. Fewer amounts were cased in pink gold, steel, with steel and gold combinations among the rarest case confgurations. The dial variations were numerous and displayed a range of styles, from sector designs to pulsations scales. The present example is one among an exceedingly rare number of reference 130s cased in stainless steel and pink gold. To date, no more than eleven examples have ever graced the auction market. Most notably, the case construction of this model is slightly diferent than its precious metal counterparts. The lugs are slightly thicker but shorter in design. Furthermore, the diameter is slightly larger at 33.5 millimeters, giving it a decidedly modern appearance and substantially more presence on the wrist. This particular timepiece is the earliest known pink gold and stainless steel reference 130. Preserved in superb and remarkable condition, this watch displays very crisp fnishes and sharp edges. Even the back of the lugs retains crisp bevels, which would have instantly disappeared with moderate polishing. Furthermore, the pink dial is preserved in very impressive condition. The hard enamel signature is crisp, and the tachymeter scale is all visible and raised. A light layer of patina has developed on some of the numerals, attesting to the untouched nature of the timepiece. It is a very rare occurrence to fnd a dial in such unspoiled condition.
Archival photo
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 130 Steel and Pink Gold “Pink Two-Tone Dial”
188.
A fne and rare white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year and day and night indicator, additional case back, original certifcate and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2012
Reference No.
5270
Movement No.
5’957’813
Case No.
6’145’546
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 29-535, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-120,000 $70,400-121,000 €62,300-107,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated December 12, 2012 and stamped Wempe, additional caseback, setting pin, instruction manual, product literature and ftted presentation box.
The serially-produced perpetual calendar chronograph is one of Patek Philippe’s most historical and iconic models to date. Its roots date back to 1941 with the creation of reference 1518. Today, the Genevan manufacture continues the tradition by producing an exclusive and updated take on the complicated wristwatch. Reference 5270 was frst introduced in 2011 and is the largest perpetual calendar chronograph ever made by Patek Philippe. Featuring an in-house caliber, the model can generally be divided into a few series: First series: The hands and numerals are black, ofering the highest legibility among all the three series. Most notably, it lacks a tachymeter scale. Second series: The hand and numerals are now a more classic silvered fnish and the tachymeter scale has been added. The scale follows the contour of the subsidiary seconds counter creating what is now known as “The Chin”. Third series: The fnal iteration features unchanged silvered numerals and hands, however the tachymeter scale now stops where it intersects the outer date ring. Sold at the storied retailer Wempe and ofered in excellent condition, this third series 5270 has hardly been worn throughout its lifetime and is ofered with its original accessories such as its original certifcate, numbered additional case back, setting pin and ftted presentation box.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5270
189.
An extremely rare and very well preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, original paperwork and box
A landmark model, the reference 1518 was the frst perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced in series when it was introduced in 1941. It’s remarkable how, in the midst of war-torn Europe, Patek Philippe had the audacity, courage, and foresight to begin manufacturing such a complicated and groundbreaking wristwatch. According to research, only 281 examples were manufactured until the reference ceased production in 1954, a remarkably small output for such an extended period of time. It paved the way for Patek Philippe’s celebrated successor references - the 2499, 3970, 5970 and most recently, 5270. No matter the horological advances or aesthetic refnements of these subsequent references, their basic architecture is clearly traced back to their progenitor, the 1518, making this reference one of the single most important references in modern horology. Consigned to auction by the family of the original owner, an important Brazilian attorney and real-estate developer, the dial is ftted with a correspondingly rare feature – a Portuguese day and date window. Originally, the watch was ftted with a Patek Philippe gold bracelet; however, during its only service at Patek Philippe in Geneva during the 1960s, the bracelet went missing during its return trip to Brazil. Adding to its desirability, the present example is accompanied by its original certifcate of origin and receipt, with the watch itself costing 3,465 Swiss Francs and the bracelet an additional 885 Swiss Francs.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1518 “From Geneva to Brazil and Back”
189.
An extremely rare and very well preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, original paperwork and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1950
Reference No.
1518
Movement No.
867’895
Case No.
661’081
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13 Q, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle (modern)
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $251,000-503,000 €222,000-445,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming the production of the present watch with raised gold hour markers in 1950 and its subsequent sale on October 5th, 1954. Further accompanied by the original ftted box, sales certifcate dated October 4th, 1954 for the sum of 3,465 Swiss Francs, original certifcate of origin, correspondence between Patek Philippe and the original owner, and original Patek Philippe product literature.
Accompanying correspondence between the manufacture and the original owner indicates the owner was staying at the Hotel Bellevue in Berne, Switzerland and visited the salon in Geneva on October 4th, 1954. The watch was likely delivered with its guarantee and exportation paperwork to the hotel the day afer the visit.
Today, existing reference 1518s can generally be divided into two categories pertaining to the condition of the dial, which is arguably the most exceptional attribute of the 1518. The frst comprises those most commonly found on the market. While they range from showing little to heavy wear, they all display some kind of restoration or cleaning to the dial. These watches make up a majority of the reference 1518s known to the market. Due to the reference’s snap on case back and general construction, moisture easily seeped through the pushers or caseback, resulting in a spotted or slightly tarnished dial. As a result, many existing reference 1518 dials have been “touched up” at some point in their histories. The state of preservation of the present example’s dial falls into the second, exceedingly rare category – a reference 1518 with a dial that has seen no restoration or interventions whatsoever since the day it lef the factory. The dial, while not fawless, has developed a stunning ivory hue and is completely original. The case shows signs of careful wear, yet the hallmarks are still present and the lugs strong and well-defned. Having remained carefully watched over and worn only by its original owner and retaining so much of its rarely ever seen original paperwork, this absolutely fresh-to-the-market reference 1518 is a horological treasure sure to be the star of any vintage watch collection.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1518 “From Geneva to Brazil and Back”
190.
One of two ever made yellow gold worldtime wristwatch with guilloché dial, original certifcate and presentation box, produced exclusively for Relojeria Alemana, Palma de Mallorca
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
5130J-012
Movement No.
5’929’750
Case No.
6’065’609
Model Name
Worldtime Relojeria Alemana Palma de Mallorca
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240 HU, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 ∑ $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe presentation box with outer packaging, Certifcate of Origin stamped by Relojeria Alemana, leather wallet and product literature.
Patek Philippe’s worldtime reference 5130 made its debut in 2006 replacing the previous traveler’s watch reference 5110. Keeping the ingenious system invented by master watchmaker Louis Cottier in 1935, the watch allowed the wearer to view multiple time zones simultaneously. Available in four metals: yellow, white and pink gold as well as in platinum, the model was much sought afer by travelers around the world. In 2005, faithful to its reputation of ofering their clientele with unique pieces, Relojeria Alemana commissioned Patek Philippe with an exclusive order of eight reference 5130s, two in each available metal. The watches displayed the time zone for P. Mallorca highlighted in green, emphasizing its importance and contrasting wonderfully against the silver dial. Ofered in untouched condition and for the frst time on the market the present yellow gold example represents a scarce chance to own such a stunning piece as Relojeria Alemana kept a full set of four watches for their private collection.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5130 “Palma de Mallorca”
191.
A very fne, rare and extremely well preserved worldtime openface watch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1948
Reference No.
605HU
Movement No.
930’832
Case No.
654’931
Model Name
Heures Universelles
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17-170, 18 jewels
Dimensions
44.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1948 and its subsequent sale on December 20, 1949. Literature Reference 605HU is prominently illustrated and describe in “Patek Philippe Museum” by Patek Philippe, pp 338-340.
Reference 605 represents the Patek Philippe pocket incarnation of the World Time (Heures Universelles) mechanism invented by Louis Cottier. Between 1930 and 1964, Cottier delivered to Patek Philippe 95 modifed 17-170 movements (considered one of the best time only movements of its time), most of them employed in ref. 605, rendering this an astoundingly rare model with a total output below 100 pieces. The present example impresses with its incredible condition. Obviously unpolished and hardly ever used, the timepiece appears to be in near mint condition in all of its parts, to the point that it can be considered a “scholarly” piece which allows the beholder to admire the original proportions of the case and details of the dial in absolutely unmarred state. A fnal layer of appeal is given to the watch by its “short signature”. Patek Philippe changed their signature from “Patek Philippe & co.” to “Patek Philippe” in 1948, the year of production of this timepiece. Then, it is one of the frst Patek Philippe watches to feature the short signature.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 605 “Heures Universelles”
192.
A rare and attractive yellow gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with additional silvered dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1946
Reference No.
1436
Movement No.
863’957
Case No.
655’636
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-180,000 O $121,000-181,000 €107,000-160,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with raised hour-markers in gold and tachymeter scale in 1946 and its subsequent sale on October 28, 1946. Furthermore delivered with an additional Patek Philippe silvered dial.
In production for over 30 years, reference 1436 delights with its myriad of case and dial combinations. Housing a split seconds complication, the model was used to time a range of activities, from horse racing to scientifc experiments. The reference can generally be divided into two series. The frst, such as the present watch, featured a crown that functioned as a button to split and reunite the two chronograph seconds hands. The second generation had a co-axial push button within the crown to operate the split seconds function. This particular example cased in yellow gold is preserved in excellent condition with full and robust proportions. There is a hallmark visible on the upper right lug. This timepiece most notably features a dial with a hard enamel “short” signature that is preserved in excellent condition as well as tachymeter scales that are raised and crisp. It is possible to conclude that the previous owner most probably chose to upgrade the old dial with the present one, in order to provide a fresh and more well-preserved appearance. As an additional bonus, the present lot is accompanied by an additional silvered dial that is stamped with Stern numbers on the back.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1436
193.
A very fnd and rare platinum wristwatch with oversized date, power reserve and moonphases
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2004
Case No.
142-04L
Model Name
Octa Lune
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal 1300, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 ∑ $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certifcate of Authenticity. Literature Francois-Paul Journe and his watches are illustrated in F.P Journe, Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Gros.
Since the launch of his eponymous brand in 1999 François-Paul Journe has created technically extraordinary watches with immediately recognizable designs.
The Octa collection of which this Octa Lune is a member, uses Journe’s frst automatic winding caliber (the Resonance and Tourbillon models were manual). The technical feat here is the Cal 1300 movement that was designed to integrate diferent complications without modifying its dimensions. The present Octa Lune (moon in French) features Journe’s signature ofset time telling functions on the right side of the dial whereas the large date, power reserve indicator (even though the movement has a seven day power reserve only the frst fve days or 120h have guaranteed chronometric precision) and moonphase display are placed on the lef hand side of the dial. The Octa Lune was launched in 2003 and won the “Best Men’s Watch” award, in the same year, at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) - the most prestigious award ceremony in the watch industry. In 2004/2005 Journe decided to create a rose gold movement for its watches and increased the dimensions to 40mm, which makes the present Octa Lune in a 38mm platinum case and brass movement, an extremely limited version that was made for about a year. The present Octa Lune in excellent condition epitomizes Journe’s philosophy of technical expertise, design acumen and legibility and is a wonderful opportunity to own an extremely rare piece from one of horology’s greatest artisans.
F.P. JOURNE Octa Lune 38mm
194.
A rare and unusual white gold wristwatch with rotating dial, second time zone and linear power reserve
Manufacturer
Harry Winston and Jean-François Mojon
Year
2010
Reference No.
500/MMJFMW
Movement No.
76’010
Case No.
046’133 limited edition number 019/100
Model Name
Opus X
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, 46 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold pin buckle
Dimensions
46mm Diameter
Signed
Dial and movement marked Opus X, case signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 ∑ $40,200-70,400 €35,600-62,300 Accessories Accompanied by special Opus X ftted box with outer packaging and instruction manual.
To create its tenth Opus Harry Winston turned to Jean-François Mojon whose name is not a familiar one but whose company Chronode is behind the creation of movements for the likes of IWC, Czapek, MB&F or Urban Jurgensen to name a few. The same year the Opus X was introduced, Mojon was awarded the best watchmaker (meilleur concepteur/horloger) prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2010.
There is something quite mesmerizing about the dial side of this timepiece. Its complexity is evident and even though there is no astronomical complication in this watch there is something quite cosmic about it. The latter is underlined by the continuous rotation of the diferent indications on the dial. Three slightly inclined subdials with numerals printed on a surface made of sapphire are mounted on a central revolving frame that makes a complete rotation in 24 hours. Each subdial indicates either the hours, minutes or seconds and rotates within the central frame whilst, the hands within the subdial also rotate ensuring orientation remains constant in any position. A yellow tipped hand indicates a second timezone on 24 hours. Where the dial side represents a highly complex mechanism, the backplate of the movement is surprisingly traditional, beautifully hand decorated with Geneva waves and delicate bevels. The 72 hours linear power reserve indicator and ruthenium plating of the components add a highly contemporary fair. A surprising timepiece with much more than meets the eye as there is a certain poetry in watching the rotation of the dial and all the elements within. Limited to 100 pieces the Opus X is a watch like no other and a technical marvel that would please the collector of extraordinary timepieces.
HARRY WINSTON X JEAN-FRANÇOIS MOJON Opus X
195.
A unique, attractive and unusual jump hour platinum wristwatch with aventurine dial
Manufacturer
Ludovic Ballouard
Year
2017
Model Name
Upside Down
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. B01, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum pin buckle signed LB
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Ludovic Ballouard Certifcate of Origin, polishing cloth, pouch and box. Literature Ludovic Ballouard and the Upside Down are featured in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp. 48-57.
A master watchmaker having worked with and for some of the greatest watchmakers of our time, such as FP Journe, Ludovic Ballouard who started creating watches under his own name in 2009 has the rare talent of making the complex look simple.
The Upside Down is an entertaining alternative to the classical way of reading time. As its name implies all, but one, numerals on the dial are upside down. The 12 numerals are classically displayed on the dial but are placed on twelve rotating discs. When the central minute hand precisely reaches the 12 o’clock position, the past hour number instantaneously turns 180 degrees upside down. Simultaneously the new hour turns right side up. This disc also reveals a white dot beneath, only when turned right side up, as to make it easier for the wearer to quickly fnd the correct hour. The rotation of these two tiny hour disks is faster than the eye can follow, and by using Maltese crosses to control the rotation mechanisms, time-keeping precision is not afected. A man who enjoys a technical challenge, Ballouard did not wish to place the mechanism controlling the rotating discs under the dial, considering that the owner would appreciate seeing the complexity of the complication and watching the discs rotate, he placed the mechanism on the back. No easy task as it necessitated drilling 12 minute holes through the movement plate for the 12 tiny pinions that control the hour discs. Small yet important details on the platinum case show Ludovic Ballouard’s dedication to perfection and crafsmanship, such as the hand engraved initials on the platinum crown and side of buckle, the inscriptions on the case back have also been hand engraved. The dial on this model is made of aventurine, a form of quartz, characterised by its translucency and the presence of platy mineral inclusions that make the dial resemble a starry night sky giving the watch a theatrical and sophisticated appearance. The present watch from one of contemporary horology’s most respected crafsmen is an ode to elegance and sophistication…with a twist.
LUDOVIC BALLOUARD Unique Upside Down "Aventurine Dial"
196.
A complex, rare and attractive white gold wristwatch with visible gears and bridges
Manufacturer
Harry Winston by Andreas Strehler
Year
2010
Reference No.
500/MMAS45WL
Case No.
032’111 limited edition number 24/50
Model Name
Opus 7
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Harry Winston pin buckle
Dimensions
45mm Diameter
Signed
Case, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-80,000 ∑ $50,300-80,400 €44,500-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by special Opus 7 ftted box, outer packaging, international warranty and instruction booklet.
It is safe to say that under the guidance of Maximilian Büsser, the then CEO of Harry Winston watches, the Opus collection has been key in the success that independent watchmaking is enjoying today. Harry Winston’s Opus collection was a revolutionary collaborative efort between the famed brand and the brightest minds of contemporary independent horology that pushed the limits of both the design and the mechanics of watches. Launched in 2001, the frst in the series was the Opus 1 done in collaboration with François-Paul Journe who made in fact 3 diferent models, the Chonomètre à Tourbillon, Chronomètre à Resonance and an automatic version with power
reserve that would be the premise of his Octa series. The present Opus 7 was a collaboration with horological wunderkind Andreas Strehler who is known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, a brilliant movement constructor and designer. Apart from his own brand, he has worked with some of the world’s greatest brands to create unique complicated movement, his motto being “It’s complicated to be simple”. Presented in 2007, the Opus 7 is an incredibly complex yet easy to use timepiece that indicates hours, minutes and power reserve with absolutely no hands but via a disc on the top lef side of the dial. A frst push enables the reading of the hours as indicated in white opposite a small arrow-shaped indicator marked H in silver, a second push rotates the disc and the minutes are indicated in blue opposite a small arrow-shaped indicator marked in blue. A last push on the crown and the disc rotates again to indicate the elapsed power opposite a small arrow-shaped indicator marked R in blue. The visible gears and bridges on the dial side are shaped in the form of a butterfy, a Strehler’s signature feature and hide with their graceful shapes the mind boggling complexity of the movement. Limited to just 50 pieces, the present Opus 7 is sure to enchant the esthete collector.
HARRY WINSTON X ANDREAS STREHLER Opus 7
197.
An exceptional and unique white gold tourbillon wristwatch with a hidden diamond set dial
Manufacturer
Laurent Ferrier
Year
2016
Movement No.
007
Model Name
Galet Secret
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. LF619.02, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Laurent Ferrier pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑ $101,000-201,000 €89,000-178,000 Accessories Accompanied by Laurent Ferrier ftted box, undated Certifcate of Origin and Guarantee, instruction manual and a loupe. Literature Laurent Ferrier is prominently featured in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 136-159.
Laurent Ferrier took the watch world by storm with the introduction of the Galet Classique, a superbly classical yet suave timepiece with a phenomenally gorgeous and painstakingly hand decorated tourbillon movement that could be admired from the back. Ferrier spent almost all his professional career at Patek Philippe as technical director in charge of product development, but at an age where his colleagues were leaving on a well-deserved retirement, he decided to embark on a new adventure flled with adrenaline, creating his dream watch with not a shred of compromise.
The present Galet Secret has the complete Ferrier genetic codes and more. The large curvaceous case has a tactile elegance, the tourbillon movement features a double hairspring balance, which consists of two hairsprings one atop the other but beating in opposite directions, one spring erasing the variations of the other permitting greater accuracy. The dial side is even more interesting has nothing to shy from as it is a potent mix of elegant classicism and sheer famboyance where the owner can at a push of a button switch from one to the other. As the name implies the present watch hides a secret behind the tinted sapphire dial. A complex device pivots the dial’s two opaque crystals at a full 240° like a fan opening to reveal a dial set with baguette diamonds for a total of 4.6 cts. The dial aperture can open or close on demand by push of the crown or at the time set by the owner. In this case at 9 o’clock the system starts switching over the display until its complete unfold in 60 minutes. The diamond set dial will remain visible for twelve hours until the sapphire apertures start closing. The time of opening of the dial can be modifed at the request of the owner. Serendipitously, the movement number is 007 and the watch would defnitely be a perfect attire on Mr. Bond’s wrist concealing or revealing the hidden dial depending on the moment! A unique piece, the present Galet Secret ofers the best of all worlds, ultimate rarity, technical complexity and a watch that can go from apparent simple classism to glittering panache. As such it has its place in any collection as the proud representative of contemporary independent watchmaking.
LAURENT FERRIER Galet Secret “Diamonds”
198.
A historically interesting and well-preserved silver and enamel desk clock, delivered to King Fuad I of Egypt
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1925
Case No.
11’149
Material
Silver and enamel
Calibre
Manual
Dimensions
70mm Height
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Attestation stating the present watch was one of a series of six pieces manufactured in 1925 for His Majesty the King of Egypt Fuad I for a price of 3688 Francs and presentation box and two keys. Provenance Delivered to His Majesty the King of Egypt Fuad I.
This historically interesting silver and enamel desk clock features the crown engraving of His Highness King Fuad I of Egypt at the base. Research with Breguet confrms the production of pendulette no. 11149 and its sale with the crown engraving on the 10th of December 1925 to King Fuad of Egypt (1868-1936). The present timepiece is one among six pieces sold to him in 1925. At the time, the cost was 3688 French Francs. Even the Breguet ftted presentation box bears the royal symbol, attesting the importance of His Highness. Both His Highness King Fuad I, and his son King Fuad II were well-known for their passion for horology. His son most notably received one of the most complicated Vacheron Constantin openface watches ever made, a “Grande and Petite sonnerie” moon phase astronomical clock-watch with perpetual calendar, split seconds chronograph with 30 minute instantaneous recorder and alarm, with power reserve indicators for both the going and the striking trains. Today, it resides in the museum of Vacheron Constantin.
BREGUET No. 11'149 “King Fuad I”
199.
A fne, very rare, and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with two-tone silver guilloché dial
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1941
Reference No.
4296
Movement No.
4296
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 253, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed; caseback and movement stamped with No. 4296.
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming the sale of the present wristwatch to Monsieur Gafé on 17 May 1941 for the amount of 6,800 Francs.
Certain design cues are so imbedded in the DNA of a watch manufacture that it is hardly necessary to print the name on the dial. Such is the case with Breguet, who, since 1775, have artfully utilized the combination of a guilloché dial, blued steel “pomme” hands, and delicate Roman numerals on so many of their iconic pieces. The present lot is no diferent, a stunningly simple execution of these aesthetic traits cased in a beautifully well-preserved yellow gold case with coin-edge detailing. Breguet’s production of wristwatches during the 1930s and 1940s was very limited, owing to the afermath of the Great Depression followed by the ravages of World War II. It is likely that barely a handful of gold wristwatches were manufactured and delivered during this time, leading one to assume that the delivery of this timepiece on May 17th, 1941, with German forces occupying much of France, was an exceptional occurrence.
BREGUET No. 4296 “Monsieur Gafé”
200.
An unusual and attractive asymmetric wristwatch with champagne dial, designed by Gilbert Albert
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1962
Reference No.
3424
Movement No.
857’553
Case No.
2’622’904
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 8’’’85, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
27mm Width and 39mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1962 and its subsequent sale on June 15, 1962.
Gilbert Albert is beloved for his novel and daring designs that completely departed from the quotidian during the 1950s and 1960s. In 1955, Patek Philippe teamed up with the designer to produce a series of unusual wristwatches. The talented artist took inspiration from modern artists such as Brancusi and Mondrian, and his daring and unconventional case designs are considered as cutting-edge today as they were 40 years ago. Albert is known for his unconventional use of materials like coral, pearls and meteorite. The works have a harmony with nature in their form and color. There are few wristwatch models that have achieved a cult status like Gilbert Albert’s Patek Philippe designs. Having resided in a private collection for many years, this watch is believed to be one of only four examples of reference 3424 in yellow gold with champagne dial and sector lines to have ever graced the auction market. With a crisp hallmark on the lug, the watch has been preserved in excellent condition.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3424 “Gilbert Albert”
201.
An exquisite, elegant and attractive yellow gold, onyx, diamond and chrysoprase-set bracelet watch, from the collection of Catherine Deneuve
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
4321-2
Movement No.
1’274’243
Case No.
2’760’473
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds, onyx and chrysoprase
Calibre
Manual, cal. 16- 250, 18 Jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold, diamond, onyx and chrysoprase Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 168mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold, diamond, onyx and
Dimensions
35.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
chrysoprase concealed clasp
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,100-40,200 €17,800-35,600 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1976 with yellow gold bracelet with stones, 154 diamonds totaling approximately 2.06 carats, 8 cabochons onyx and 11 chrysoprase and its subsequent sale on July 22, 1976. Provenance From the collection of Catherine Deneuve.
It is with great honor and pleasure for Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo to ofer the present timepiece - a stunning and exquisite Patek Philippe bracelet watch lavishly set with diamonds, onyx and chrysoprase, hailing from the collection of award-winning actress, model, producer and activist Catherine Deneuve. An original multi-hyphenate, she is France’s cultural symbol and archetypal actress, having starred in multiple zeitgeist-capturing flms that span decades. Born Catherine Fabienne Dorléac, Deneuve made her flm debut in André Hunebelle’s Les Collégiennes at age 13. While the then-fedgling actress landed her breakout role in The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, it was not until she starred in Belle de Jour that she became a true cinematic icon. Through the subversive and transgressive masterpiece, Deneuve pushed the boundaries of propriety and convention. Donning Yves Saint Laurent from head to toe, protagonist Séverine Serizy and by extension Deneuve herself, embodied the Parisian spirit of beauty, charm, style and wit. The movie received countless plaudits and the actress transformed into the instant darling of the cinematographic world. Catherine Deneuve’s accolades are endless. With an Honorary Palme d’or under her belt and having received over 14 French
© Patrick Swirc/modds
Cesar Awards nominations, Deneuve has starred in over 100 flms. Today she is still heavily active and involved in the world of Arts. In 1985 she became quite literally, the symbol of the French Republic, ofcially becoming the embodiment of Marianne, the personifcation of liberty and reason and a portrayal of the Goddess of Liberty. This yellow gold bracelet watch perfectly encapsulate’s the icon’s elegance and style. Designed with undulating diamonds, onyx and chrysoprase, it boasts workmanship that is next-to-none and showcases Patek Philippe’s unparalleled workmanship. Reference 4321 was produced between 1976 and 1978. Each example was produced piece by piece, each ofering a slightly diferent variation of stone and shape. The reference perfectly captures the spirit of the era - its sloping forms, radical shape and expressive design showcases the ideals of freedom, design and self-expression of the 1970s. It thus comes as no surprise that a boundary-pushing icon such as Catherine Deneuve would choose such an arresting timepiece for her personal collection.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 4321-2 “Catherine Deneuve”
202.
A highly rare and attractive asymmetric yellow gold wristwatch with presentation box
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
1990
Case No.
76’068
Model Name
“Crash London”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
24mm Width and 43mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $60,300-121,000 €53,400-107,000 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier presentation box.
The Crash is one of the most iconic Cartier wristwatches ever made. Its origins remain cloaked in mystery. While some claim that its form comes from a melted Maxi Baignoire Allongée, others declare that it was inspired by Salvador Dali’s Persistence of Memory. Regardless of its genesis, its importance and signifcance cannot be disputed. The curves, facets and sloping lines have today become synonymous with Cartier’s design language. First launched in 1967 in Cartier London, the original yellow gold model has spawned variants, including gemencrusted models to skeletonized versions. Made for the British market, the present watch is among the most coveted of all Crash variants. Displaying “London” on the dial, it is particularly beloved by collectors today. The case back displays London hallmarks for 1990, along with the maker’s mark “JC” for Jacques Cartier, who was tasked with spearheading the London branch of Cartier. It is preserved in excellent condition with sharp and deep numbers on the case back.
CARTIER “Crash London”
203.
A very elegant pink gold lady’s annual calendar wristwatch with diamond bezel, mother of pearl dial, moonphases, factory double sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2013
Reference No.
4936R-001
Movement No.
5’749’979
Case No.
4’654’667
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S QA LU, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and pin buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∑ $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated November 21, 2013, presentation box with outer packaging, leather wallet and product literature.
This elegant lady’s wristwatch features a beautiful mother of pearl dial adorned by applied Roman numerals. The pink gold case is set with brilliant cut diamonds as is the crown giving this complicated watch an added touch of glamour. Launched in 2007, reference 4936 is the ladies’ version of the automatic wristwatch with annual calendar, date and moonphases. Powered by the in-house caliber 324 S QA LU, the watch is just a little smaller than the male version sporting a nice and contemporary 37mm case diameter. The automatic caliber coupled with an annual calendar makes this timepiece a very convenient companion that will only need an adjustment once every 4 years. Available in white, yellow or pink gold with a black or white mother of pearl dial and water-resistant up to 30 meters this watch is designed for active and elegant women who would not compromise on style while leading an active life.
Stock Photo for information. Not actual watch.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 4936 “Factory Double Sealed”
204.
OMEAG – A very attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black glossy dial and silver script
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1942
Movement No.
9’387’495
Case No.
10’122’267
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 33.3, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,100-25,100 €13,300-22,200 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch on April 17, 1942 and its subsequent sale to the Swiss market. Literature A similar watch is illustrated on pages 20-21 of Omega Sportswatches and on page 78 Omega Watches by John Goldberger.
Only a few watch movements made it to the status of icon, giving the model they were cased in an instant added value. The Omega caliber 33.3 CHRO is part of this exclusive horological marvels that shaped history. Launched in 1933 the frst model using this caliber had only one apparent chronograph pusher when the second one was merged into the crown. In the late 30s, Omega redesigned it to power some of their fnest two pusher chronographs. The two-body stainless steel case with water resistant caseback has perfectly protected the superb black glossy dial from the efect of time and moisture. The contrast between the black glossy dial and the silver printings is absolutely striking and gives the watch a very powerful and masculine aspect. The case is further completed by two circular chronograph pushers as opposed to the olive shaped pushers found on earlier generations. A strong case with sharp lugs will fnish to convince the most demanding collector.
205.
TISSOT – A fne and unusual stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with hooded spider-lugs and black multi-scale dial
Manufacturer
Tissot
Year
Circa 1940
Movement No.
7615
Case No.
907’859
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 33.3, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather Nato strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-12,000 $6,000-12,100 â‚Ź5,300-10,700
One of the most appealing traits of vintage watch collecting is that extremely unusual, collectible and attractive timepieces can be found at all price levels. The present Tissot chronograph, for example, is as striking an example of vintage steel chronograph as much more important models. Its style can be considered somewhat transitional: the dial incorporates characteristics typical of the 1940s, during which dials with abundance of graphic elements - scales, railway divisions - were common and case designs were usually very streamlined. In this present watch, the complex case architecture is closer to the 1960s/1970s taste, characterized by elaborate case designs but very simple and clean dials. In a sense, then, the timepiece incorporates the best of both eras. Considered that such an attractive and unusual timepiece is available for a relatively afordable price, this is a testament to the width and breadth of the vintage watch panorama.
206.
A historically important extremely rare oversized silver single-button chronograph wristwatch with enamel dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1915
Reference No.
CH 568.18
Movement No.
4’428’289
Case No.
5’414’153
Material
Silver
Calibre
Manual, 18”’ SOPB CHRO, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
46mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,100-30,200 €17,800-26,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract of the Archives confrming the production of the present watch on September 15, 1915. Literature A similar timepiece is featured in Omega Watches by John Goldberger p. 66.
Omega was amongst the frst brands to create wrist chronographs in 1913 and the present timepiece from 1915 with a military background can certainly be considered an important piece of the company’s early history. The 18”’ SOPB CHRO was originally a pocket watch movement housed here in a substantial 46mm silver case. The enamel dial bearing large luminous military style Arabic numerals is striking in its modernity. A pink gold plated button placed discretely between the lower lugs starts, stops and resets the chronograph. The caseback is engraved with the initials C.G.L. Wolf a trained biochemist who reached the ranks of Captain in the British Royal Army Medical Corps where he served in the Hygiene Laboratories in Boulogne, France during World War I. So important is this watch within Omega’s history that in 2018 it relaunched this chronograph in an exclusive 18 piece limited edition using original movements from 1913. The watch has remained in incredible condition considering it was made over a century ago. The historical importance, the military background, the striking features and its ultimate rarity make the present timepiece a must have for the avid collector.
OMEGA “Captain Wolf ”
207.
LONGINES – A very large and rare stainless steel wristwatch with three-tone dial
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1945
Reference No.
5056
Movement No.
6’896’170
Case No.
20’715 6
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12.68 Z, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Longines pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 $5,000-10,100 €4,400-8,900 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confrming date of invoicing 26 July 1945 to Australia. Literature The present watch is illustrated on Longines Watches by John Goldberger, pp 108-109.
Back in the early 1940s, Longines was already ahead of time by designing wristwatches with very large diameter. Boosting a 37.5mm diameter, when men’s watches were around 33-34mm at the time, the case even looks larger due to its fat bezel. The design of the dial also enhances the case size with a very large portion lef without inscriptions. The indexes are a mix between pink gold roman numerals and dots. This minimalistic design and simple “Calatrava” style case have allowed this timepiece to have passed time without looking outdated. In excellent overall condition, this piece displays a warm and charming patina on the dial that provides a visually stimulating result. Still under the radar, time only wristwatches from the 1940s with timeless designs provide a great opportunity to start a collection or a perfect watch for collectors who follow the “Less is More” philosophy.
208.
LONGINES – A very elegant pink gold calendar wristwatch with pink two tone dial
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
Circa 1946
Reference No.
5412
Movement No.
6’988’215
Case No.
6’988’215
Model Name
“Pointer Date”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27.0, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35.7mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 ∑ $10,100-15,100 €8,900-13,300 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confrming invoicing of the present watch on August 2, 1946 to Portugal.
Nicknamed “Pointer Date” due to its red tipped hand pointing at the calendar printed on the outer ring of the dial, Longines’ reference 5412’s resemblance with the extremely popular oversized time-only from the 1940-1950s is striking. With a case diameter of 35.7mm, the watch is not oversized but its presence on the wrist remains very satisfying. In production for a very short period of time in the late 1940s, the reference was mainly available in stainless steel. This very short production makes it extremely difcult to fnd an example today, but the chance to fnd one in pink gold with a pink dial is even smaller. Further presented in excellent condition this watch represent a scarce opportunity to own a reference that only a few savvy collectors would know.
209.
An extremely large, unusual and very well preserved stainless steel single button chronograph pilot’s wristwatch with rotated black dial and hinged caseback, retailed by Eberhard Milano
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1936
Movement No.
5’162’912
Case No.
5’162’912
Model Name
A7 “Avigation”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 18.72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
49mm Diameter
Signed
Case, movement and dial signed by maker, dial further signed by retailer
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 ∆ $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000 Accessories Accompanied by an Orologeria Eberhard Milano presentation box and Longines Extract from the Archives confrming sale of the present watch in 1936 to Italy. Literature A similar watch is illustrated in Longines, Legendary Watches by John Goldberger pp 258-259.
The beauty, state of preservation and rarity of the present oversized Longines A7 chronograph in stainless steel cannot be underlined enough. Launched before World War II, these single pusher chronographs were initially produced for aviators with the dial set at an angle so the time could be read easily while piloting. A single button pusher incorporated into the crown allowed the pilot to easily start, stop and reset the chronograph to zero. The Longines A-7 “Avigation” name comes from the US Army Air Corps “Type A” designations for many of their issued equipment watches and derives from the conjunction of “Aerial Navigation”. Afer the war and for a very short period of time, a small production in stainless steel was produced for the civilian market, as opposed to the chrome-plated military version. The present stainless steel civilian A7 is presented in untouched and original condition. The case is unmolested and the gilt fnished movement is superbly preserved. The black matt dial, printed with silver inscription proudly displays the prestigious, Milan-based retailer Eberhard’s signature making it the only known model A7 in steel with retailer signature. The watch is further completed by its original box signed Orologeria Eberhard Milano. The present watch is not only an ultra-rare example in stainless steel but its new old stock condition, original strap and buckle, retailer signed dial and original box is sure to delight any connoisseur of large and unusual timepieces.
LONGINES A7 “Avigation for Eberhard Milano”
210.
LACHER & CO – An extremely large, very rare and fawlessly preserved stainless steel pilot’s wristwatch with center seconds, black luminous dial and box
Manufacturer
Lacher & Co
Year
Circa 1940
Movement No.
3162
Case No.
217-560B, caseback stamped H3162 to the outside
Model Name
Beobachtungsuhr
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
55mm Diameter
Signed
Case and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-7,000 $5,000-7,000 €4,400-6,200 Accessories Accompanied by Lacher box.
An exceptional war-time relic, the present timepiece can arguably be counted amongst the ultimate examples of military pilot timepiece. In the 1940s, the German Air Force, or Lufwafe, commissioned watches for their pilots from manufacturers such as IWC, Laco, Stowa, Wempe, and A. Lange & Söhne. Produced to the Lufwafe’s specifcations, the watches would all have a mechanical movement with centre seconds, and cases measuring 55mm to accommodate the large movements,
which were typically used in pocket watches, and to allow for maximum legibility. The watches would all be ftted on an extralong leather strap so they could be worn over a fight jacket. The oversized crown could be operated with gloves on, and one would be able to stop the central seconds for precise timesetting. The movement would be surrounded by an iron core, to protect against magnetism. These watches became known as the B-Uhr style, abbreviated for Beobachtungs-uhren, or “Observation” watch. The B-Uhr had two dial variations - Type A dials featured a standard outer minute track and large triangle at 12 o’clock, and Type B exemplifed by the present watch - with an inner hour track and outer minute track. “FL23883” was graved on the lef side of the band to identify the watch as one designed for navigation. On the inside of the case back, it contained further identifying numbers and information: type (Bauart), production number (Werk-Bez.), and order number (Anforderz). As the watches were the property of the Lufwafe, and not of the individual navigators, the pilots had to return their watches afer completing their service, thus enhancing their collectability today. Finding a new-old-stock example such as the present one is unimaginably difcult as these pieces were intensively used, making this example virtually unique.
211.
MINERVA – An extremely attractive, rare and well preserved oversized single-button multi-scale chronograph wristwatch with black gloss dial and revolving bezel
Manufacturer
Minerva
Year
1939
Movement No.
1’503’035
Case No.
456’898
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 19-09 CH
Bracelet/Strap
Leather Nato strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
46mm Diameter
Signed
Dial signed
Estimate CHF 18,000-28,000 $18,100-28,200 €16,000-24,900
According to the archives of Minerva, the case of the present piece was manufactured between 1938 and 1940, and the movement was delivered on September 30, 1939. Few timepieces bear as much aesthetic impact and historical interested as early oversized chronograph wristwatches. Always made for technical purposes - most ofen as a tool to aid pilots navigate their craf - they were true precision instruments and crafed with the highest production standards. Consequently, these watches nearly always bore details intended to aid the professional on his job such as - in the present watch - the telemeter and tachymeter scale, and the revolving bezel.
It is not surprising that this kind of pieces were tool watches: in a time (the 1930s and 1940s) when the “standard” measure for a man’s wristwatch was hovering between 31 and 35mm, the gargantuan proportions of these instruments truly relegated them to the professional feld where the need for high legibility was indispensable. Nowadays, the trend has evolved, and the few pieces which survived intact until today unite at once the charm of a vintage piece with aesthetics typical of the new millennium. Unfortunately, the professional connotation of these pieces implies that most of them have been heavily used and serviced with the usual consequences: polishing of the case, substitution of components, ofen a refresh to the dial. Only in very few instances - such as the present one - the watch arrives to us in absolutely superb, unmolested condition, making the present occasion a nearly unique opportunity to own one such watch in absolutely original and extremely well-preserved condition.
212.
A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with black lacquer dial, pointed crown guards, bracelet, original guarantee and ftted presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1961
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D44’644
Case No.
621’615
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster C&I bracelet, max length 225mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant buckle,
Dimensions
39.5mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
clasp stamped 7.62
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by original guarantee certifcate, COSC certifcate dated 8 March 1961, original sales receipt dated 11 August 1961, Rolex inner and outer presentation boxes, and original crystal.
The Rolex GMT-Master’s fascinating history began with Pan American Airways’ collaboration with Rolex to develop a watch that would allow their pilots to simultaneously keep track of time in two time zones. Reference 1675 was introduced in 1960 as the successor to the reference 6542 – the frst GMT-Master launched in 1954. The reference 1675 introduced crown guards and a bezel with a metallic insert that was more robust than the 6542’s Bakelite bezel, notorious for its fragility even today among the collecting community. The present example displays many of the desirable traits of an early iteration of the reference 1675 GMT-Master: a small arrow tipped 24-hour hand, glossy lacquer dial, and gilt printing. It is further complemented by its original guarantee, COSC certifcate, and sales receipt indicating it was sold in 1961 for 108.80 Deutsche marks. Thick luminous hour plots that have aged to a pleasing light beige match the pale gold gilt printing still visible on the dial, while the red and blue metallic insert has faded to create an ombré-efect where the portion of the insert closest to the dial is slightly more vibrant than the portion further away from the dial. Overall, the result is a magnifcent specimen of an early 1675, and with its good looks and complete nature, should stir the pulse of any collector of vintage Rolex sports watches.
ROLEX Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “Glossy Dial”
213.
An early and attractive diver’s wristwatch with bracelet, box, wax tag and anchor
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
5508
Case No.
361’650
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex expandable riveted Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.56
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $80,400-161,000 €71,200-142,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box, wax tag and Rolex anchor.
The Submariner is one of Rolex’s most iconic models. Still in production today, it has gone through multiple incarnations throughout its 65 years history. While early generation examples notably had either a “small” or “big” crown, Rolex gradually introduced crown guards in the mid-1960s to make the model more robust and durable. Reference 5508 was manufactured between 1958 and 1962. This Submariner model, nicknamed “small crown” is the last one to carry a 100m depth rating and no crown guards. The present example is presented in an impressively preserved condition. It seems that the watch has spent its life securely stored away from the ocean and worn less than occasionally. The case is as crisp as it was when it lef the factory and the fragile bevels that run along the lugs are crisp and sharp. Fitted with a black glossy dial with gilt printings, the watch also displays a perfectly preserved bezel with red triangle and original pearl. It further impresses with a wonderfully frm and tight expandable riveted Oyster bracelet stamped 1.58. Directly coming from the family of the original owner, this 60 year plus Submariner is a preserved gem that could possibly be ready for some action.
ROLEX Ref. 5508 Submariner “The Perfect Survivor”
214.
A fne, very rare and highly attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne Paul Newman dial
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Champagne”
214.
A fne, very rare and highly attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne Paul Newman dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
2’084’332
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K gold Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $251,000-503,000 €222,000-445,000
Launched in 1966, reference 6241 was mainly cased in stainless steel. Scholars estimate that no more than 3000 examples were made during the model’s production period. Of these, less than a quarter were dressed in precious metal. The present example however is a tier above the 18K gold version as it is the even more rare 14K version. It is speculated that 14K gold watches were made in order to minimize the high import taxes on gold watches some countries had in place at the time. The scarcity of the gold version - to a modern eye an oddity, as today gold sport wristwatches are commonplace - is apparent when considering that the Daytona was, at the time of its inception, a watch intended for car racers. Thus, it needed to be light and sturdy and a stainless steel case was the most obvious choice, while the opposite holds true for gold. The true protagonist of this timepiece is however its champagne Paul Newman dial. Absolutely correct for its 2 million serial number, it is preserved in superb condition, fully retaining all of its luminous accents without the slightest loss of material. The surface of the dial is fawless: no mark, scratch or even age spots can be seen even afer meticulous examination.
This previously unknown timepiece can without a doubt be considered one of the most appealing Champagne Newman 6241 to come to the market in virtue of its rare 14K gold case and astounding dial. Given the amount of interest which has been circling the Daytona model over the past years, it is not a stretch to say that the discovery of another such piece with a dial as appealing as this one is a highly improbable occurrence.
ROLEX Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Champagne”
215.
An attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with silvered dial, bracelet, box and punched guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1978
Reference No.
6265, inside caseback stamped 6262
Case No.
5’582’756
Model Name
Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78350 19, 2nd links stamped 571, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-50,000 $40,200-50,300 €35,600-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex presentation box with outer packaging, punched guarantee dated June 16, 1981, hang tag, leather wallet and product literature.
In 1969, Rolex simultaneously launched references 6263 and 6265, replacing the frst Oyster Cosmograph - Model 6240. The Cosmograph Daytona with screw-down pushers was in production for almost 20 years and was ofered in either stainless steel or gold. The present example is categorized amongst collectors as the ‘Big Red’, distinguished by its large red ‘DAYTONA’ signature above the 6 o’clock register. This watch is ftted on a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, enhancing the sporty aesthetic it is famous for. The silvered dial is in excellent condition, with fully luminous hour markers along the outer ring, all of which are present and intact. Additionally, the fawless solid-fnished dial glistens brilliantly against its contrasting black subsidiary dials. The present reference 6265 from 1978 is presented at auction as a full set; the watch is accompanied by its original box with outer packaging, the original punched guarantee and even the original Rolex hang tag bearing the detail of the watch. This versatile watch can easily be worn during the day at the ofce, on a weekend getaway at the beach, or even for black tie events.
ROLEX Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
216.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial, “big crown” and “big logo” bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
5510 inside case back stamped I.1958
Case No.
361’946
Model Name
Submariner “Big Crown”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster “Big Logo” bracelet, reference 7206, end links stamped 65, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.59
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 O $50,300-101,000 €44,500-89,000
Produced for a short period of time only in the late 1950s, reference 5510 notably features a big crown with no crown guards. Some examples were chronometer certifed, while others displayed “Submariner” along with the depth rating these variants are known as “Two Liners”. In production for a few years only, reference 5510 is instantly recognizable and characterized by its black lacquer ‘Swiss’ dial, lack of crown guards and 8 millimeter Brevet ‘big’ crown. Research suggests that reference 5510 was made in an exceedingly small series of less than 300 examples. The Big Crown Submariner has a special place in the hearts of Rolex collectors, having been immortalized in multiple James Bond flms. Bond’s gadget is famously disguised as a ‘Big Crown’ Submariner, which is equipped with diferent spying abilities. This particular example features crisp, sharp bevels which are incredibly wide in their proportions. Furthermore, it still retains its original crown. The luminous material on the hands and numerals have aged with warm patina. As an added feature, this watch is ftted with an original Rolex “Big Logo” bracelet that is incredibly collectible today. It is stamped for the fourth quarter of 1959.
ROLEX Ref. 5510 Submariner “Big Crown”
217.
A rare and extremely attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
6262, inside caseback stamped 6239
Case No.
2’416’813
Model Name
Daytona “Paul Newman - Musketeer dial”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster expandable bracelet, reference 6635, end links stamped 57, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.66
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 140,000-220,000 $141,000-222,000 €125,000-196,000
At Rolex, 1970 was marked by the launch of two Cosmograph references; the 6262 with the silver bezel and the 6264 with an acrylic bezel. Very similar to the previous generation, these two references were ftted with the upgraded caliber 727. As ofen in production, the new reference was launched when spare parts from the precedent was still available hence some of the frst models produced, like the present one, using casebacks with the previous reference written inside. Both references were produced for a few years only and were the last Daytona references to be ftted with pump pushers. Displaying yet another variant of a “Paul Newman” dial, this tricolor reference 6262 displays numerous points of great interest. The most interesting being the so called “Musketeer” dial. Most of the Paul Newman dial have concentric circle pattern on the subdials. However, on this specifc dial, the subdials have those concentric circle covering only two-third of their surface, leaving the outer portion, where the numerals are printed fat. The “T Swiss T” designation at 6 o’clock is also fatter than its predecessors. Presented in excellent condition, this rare dial version is stunning and is further framed by a beautiful MK1 bezel. This exclusive combination will appeal to the most discerning Daytona collector.
ROLEX Ref. 6262 Daytona “Paul Newman - Musketeer Dial”
218.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, center seconds, black lacquer dial, bracelet, chronometer certifcate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
5512 inside caseback stamped III.62
Movement No.
D26’466
Case No.
1’215’288
Model Name
Submariner “Four Liner”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 Jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.65
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $40,200-80,400 €35,600-71,200 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex chronometer certifcate dated January 21, 1965 and presentation box.
Launched in 1959, reference 5512 is today one of the most sought-afer Submariner references on the market. Extremely rugged, it difered from its predecessors reference 5508 or 6536/1 as the model was ftted with crown guards. The case was slightly enlarged from earlier models and gave a bigger presence on the wrist. While the earliest examples featured square crown guards, later generation models, such as the present watch displayed rounded crown guards. Compared to its sibling reference 5513, reference 5512s were ftted with chronometer movements. The present watch is a beautifully preserved specimen. It is distinguished by its original condition. Displaying full proportions, it still retains bevels on the case. The present watch displays a well-preserved lacquer dial that bears “Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed” - these examples are known as “four liners” and are particularly sought-afer by collectors. Most impressively, it is ofered with its original chronometer certifcate and presentation box, adding another layer of desirability. Furthermore, the bracelet is stamped for 1965 and corresponds with the year of manufacture.
ROLEX Ref. 5512 Submariner “Glossy Four-Liner”
219.
A rare and very attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial, center seconds, bracelet, original guarantee, original polishing cloth and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1956
Reference No.
6536/1 inside case back stamped II.56
Movement No.
DN’680’174
Case No.
155’661
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 65, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.56
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 O $30,200-50,300 €26,700-44,500 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Artland Watch Co. and dated August 10, 1957, Artland Watch Co. polishing cloth, “Submariner” card and presentation box.
Introduced in 1955, reference 6536/1 replaced reference 6536 and remained in production until 1959. Today, it is one of the most sought-afer vintage Submariner references due to its design and modern proportions. Preserved in stunning and exceptional condition, this reference 6536/1 is an incredibly original and well-preserved example. Boasting thick bevels, a robust case and strong proportions, it is evident that this timepiece has seen extremely little, if any intervention throughout its lifetime. The dial is preserved in equally excellent and impressive condition. The luminous marker at 6 o’clock is most notably much brighter than the other lume plots. This feature allowed divers to orient themselves in the dark. Other impressive features are the original bracelet, stamped for the fourth quarter of 1956, along with the original Brevet crown. The timepiece is further enhanced by its original guarantee, stating the watch was originally sold at Artland, Hong Kong. It is even accompanied by its original Artland Watch Co. polishing cloth, adding another layer of collectibility.
ROLEX Ref. 6536/1 Submariner
220.
An extremely rare, important and early stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with black glossy “Explorer” dial
The discovery of a fresh to the market Rolex Submariner reference 6200 from the family of the original owner is always a treat. Introduced at the 1954 Basel Fair, the Submariner was released in three diferent references. The references 6204 and 6205 were water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and the more robust reference 6200, like the present model, was designed for professional divers, ofering water resistance to a depth of 200 meters. These models are nicknamed the “Big Crown”, due to their oversized, 8-millimeter “Brevet” crowns that enabled the model’s cutting edge water resistance.
ROLEX Ref. 6200 Submariner “Big Crown Explorer Dial”
220.
An extremely rare, important and early stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with black glossy “Explorer” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1954
Reference No.
6200
Case No.
32’248
Model Name
Submariner ‘Big Crown’
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. A296, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet (later) reference 9314 with extension, endlinks stamped 380, max length 230mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel fiplock deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000 $302,000-603,000 €267,000-534,000 Literature Reference 6200 is featured in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, by John Goldberger, pp. 198-199
The reference 6200 ticks all the boxes for the passionate collector, a large 37mm case and the highly desirable “Explorer” 3-6-9 dial devoid of depth rating and Submariner signature found in later models. The reference 6200, along with the 6205, were the frst models to use the now well-known “Mercedes” style hands.
Production numbers were extremely limited and their serial numbers range from 31.9xx to around 32.2xx. The present watch was originally bought by a Scandinavian sailor, captain on diferent vessels including in the Suez Canal right in the midst of the crisis in 1956. Afer his passing away the watch laid in a drawer for close to two decades where it was recently rediscovered and is now making its auction debut. The condition of the watch is surprising, the original owner, according to the family, was a dandy and an esthete who took care of his watch even though it was worn on a daily basis. As a result the case retains its strong proportions, with factory original bevels and crisp lines. The gilt glossy dial contrasts strongly with large Arabic numerals that have turned a superb cream color, further underlining the sporty appeal of the watch The watch was serviced once where the bezel was swapped with the one it is currently mounted on and the bracelet changed. The iconic reference 6200 is one of the most desirable and collectible of all vintage sport watches and fnding one fresh to the market and from family of the original owner make the present model a trophy not to be missed. Please note that a period and reference correct bezel (pictured here) is available for purchase by the winning bidder but is not part of this lot.
ROLEX Ref. 6200 Submariner “Big Crown Explorer Dial”
Index
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
80
A. Lange & Söhne
116.031
Lange 1 Zeitzone
133
Omega
Reference Number
Chronograph 33.3 silver dial
79
A. Lange & Söhne
212.050
Homage to F.A. Lange 1815 Moonphase
174
Omega
Chronograph 33.3 pink gold
121
A. Lange & Söhne
310.025E
Langematik Perpetual
82
A. Lange & Söhne
722.050
Lange 1 Tourbillon
204
Omega
“Homage to F.A. Lange”
89
Omega
CK 987
with black dial Chronograph 33.3 with black dial
9
Audemars Piguet
5402
Royal Oak “A Series”
206
Omega
CH 568.18
42
Audemars Piguet
25720PT
Star Wheel
88
Omega
OT 2849
117
Audemars Piguet
26062OR.00.A002CA.01 Royal Oak Ofshore
176
Omega
2915-2
87
Omega
C6865 and 2852/2583
Alinghi Team - Limited Edition
Speedmaster De Ville “Tifany & Co.” and “Constellation”
8
Audemars Piguet
135
Blancpain
Fify Fathoms Milspec I
131
Omega
145.012-67 SP
Speedmaster
136
Breguet
Type XX
175
Omega
145.012-67 SP
Speedmaster, “Ultraman”
198
Breguet
Desk Clock “King Fuad I”
86
Omega
145.012-67 SP
Speedmaster
62
Breguet
N°1351 Turkish Quarter Repeater
134
Omega
BA 145.022
Speedmaster Professional
199
Breguet
4296
110
Breguet
7027
Tradition
130
Omega
3576.50.00
132
Breitling
1004
Super-Ocean
66
Patek Philippe
202
Cartier
“London Crash”
166
Patek Philippe
11
74
Chronoswiss and Ebel
a) CH7401R
a) KlassiK
67
Patek Philippe
96
b) 9’137’241
b) Le Modulor
187
Patek Philippe
130
Citizen Campanola
a) AH4000-01
a) Campanola Grande Complication
73
Patek Philippe
530
and Vulcain
b) 100108.027
b) Aviator GMT Cricket
70
Patek Philippe
533
37
26579CE.OO.1225CE.01
Model Name
Royal Oak
Moonwatch De Luxe Pocket watch “Eberhard-Milan”
193
F.P. Journe
Octa Lune
191
Patek Philippe
605HU
33
F.P. Journe
Resonance
168
Patek Philippe
709
32
George Daniels
Anniversary Watch
169
Patek Philippe
730
34
George Daniels
Grand Complication
60
Patek Philippe
928
116
Gérald Genta
Octo Mosaic
59
Patek Philippe
1100
35
Gérald Genta
G.0027.7
“Grande and Petite Sonnerie”
61
Patek Philippe
1103
115
Gérald Genta
OBR.Y.50.510.CN.BD
Octo Biretro
167
Patek Philippe
1436
SBGW039
41
Grand Seiko
138
Habring 2 X Massena Lab
194
Harry Winston and
196
Harry Winston by
Calatrava
Heure universelle “Abstract in blue, grey and red”
“La Nature”
192
Patek Philippe
1436
Erwin LAB1
164
Patek Philippe
1463
500/MMJFMW
Opus X
189
Patek Philippe
1518
85
Patek Philippe
2591
500/MMAS45WL
Opus 7
200
Patek Philippe
3424
64
Patek Philippe
3429
65
Patek Philippe
3448
Padellone
127
Patek Philippe
3700/11
Nautilus
Jean-François Mojon Andreas Strehler 139
Speedmaster Professional
Harry Winston by
Opus V
Felix Baumgartner
“Tasti Tondi”
177
Heuer
1158CHN
Carrera “Ferrari”
186
Patek Philippe
3712/1A-001
Nautilus
178
Heuer
2446C
Autavia Argentinian Air Forces
38
Patek Philippe
3800/1
Nautilus
118
Hublot
301.SX.230.RX.ASF02
Big Bang ASF
165
Patek Philippe
3939
63
Ilbery
Oedipus and Antigone
28
Patek Philippe
3940
171
IWC
666
Ingenieur
30
Patek Philippe
3940
170
IWC
812 AD
Aquatimer
40
Patek Philippe
3970/2
75
Jacquet Droz
“Flying Ofcer”
29
Patek Philippe
3970E
36
Jaeger-LeCoultre
a) 142.8.92.S
a) Master Control Geographic
201
Patek Philippe
4321-2
b) 142.8.92
b) Master Control Geographic
203
Patek Philippe
4936R-001
91
Jaeger-LeCoultre
E168
Chronometre Geophysic
128
Patek Philippe
5020
“TV Screen”
92
Jaeger-LeCoultre
a) E857
a) Memovox Deep Sea
26
Patek Philippe
5022P-012
Calatrava
b) JLQ 2028440
b) Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea
43
Patek Philippe
5039G-001
E859
90
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Memovox Polaris
111
Patek Philippe
5065A-001
210
Lacher & Co
Beobachtungsuhr
84
Patek Philippe
5078
197
Laurent Ferrier
Galet Secret
190
Patek Philippe
5130J-012
207
Longines
209
Longines
A7 “Avigation”
27
Patek Philippe
5146G-010
208
Longines
5170
195
Ludovic Ballouard
140
MB&F
142 31 211
Minerva
Aquanaut Worldtime Relojeria Alemana Palma de Mallorca
“Pointer Date”
122
Patek Philippe
Upside Down
162
Patek Philippe
5170
01.PL.W
Legacy Machine 1
78
Patek Philippe
5180
MB&F
60.RL.B
Horological Machine 6 - Space Pirate
126
Patek Philippe
5208P
MB&F
AXA.72.5865.000
Music Machine 1
188
Patek Philippe
5270
Aviator
81
Patek Philippe
5396G-001
5412
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
124
Patek Philippe
5930G-001
163
Patek Philippe
5960
125
Patek Philippe
5970
83
Patek Philippe
5980/1
7
Richard Mille
RM016 AH Ti/1019
77
Roger Dubuis
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
153
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona
102
Rolex
6263
RM016 “The Hour Glass”
103
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph Daytona
Sympathie Retrograde Perpetual
14
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph Daytona
Calendar Chronograph
154
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph
“Paul Newman - Oyster Sotto” Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman Panda”
95
Rolex
1019
Milgauss
21
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph “Daytona”
96
Rolex
1019
Milgauss
49
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph Daytona
156
Rolex
1655
Steve McQueen, Freccione
47
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller
215
Rolex
6265
Daytona
161
Rolex
1665
“Patent Pending” Sea-Dweller
72
Rolex
6305
Datejust “Ovettone”
“Double Red”
69
Rolex
6305-1
Datejust “Joyeria Riviera”
“Telephone Big Red”
158
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller
44
Rolex
6444
Oyster
19
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
219
Rolex
6536/1
Submariner
212
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
51
Rolex
6542
GMT-Master
150
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
22
Rolex
6542
GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
48
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
68
Rolex
8171
“Padellone”
18
Rolex
1680
“Single Red” Submariner
114
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona
11
Rolex
1803
Day-Date
2
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona “A Series”
53
Rolex
2508
23
Rolex
16528
Cosmograph Daytona
179
Rolex
3525
46
Rolex
16570 T
“SRR” Explorer II
55
Rolex
3525
Oyster Chronograph “Barilotto”
15
Rolex
16600
Sea-Dweller “Polipetto”
58
Rolex
3525
Oyster Chronograph “Barilotto”
5
Rolex
16618
Submariner
52
Rolex
3835
113
Rolex
16710
GMT-Master II
185
Rolex
4062
39
Rolex
16753
GMT-Master “Root Beer”
10
Rolex
5100
“Beta 21”
149
Rolex
18038
Day-Date “Woman in Red”
213
Rolex
5508
Submariner
16
Rolex
18038
Day-Date
155
Rolex
5508
Submariner
17
Rolex
18038
Day-Date
216
Rolex
5510
Submariner “Big Crown”
20
Rolex
18038
Day-Date
157
Rolex
5512
Submariner
3
Rolex
18208
Day-Date
218
Rolex
5512
Submariner “Four Liner”
4
Rolex
18208
Day-Date
160
Rolex
5513
Submariner, “MilSub”
119
Rolex
18346
Day-Date
71
Rolex
6062
“Stelline”
112
Rolex
116519
Cosmograph Daytona
220
Rolex
6200
Submariner “Big Crown”
1
Rolex
116520
Cosmograph Daytona
57
Rolex
6234
Oyster Chronograph Anti-Magnetic
12
Rolex
116520
Cosmograph
123
Rolex
6235
Cosmograph Daytona
98
Rolex
228206
Day-Date 40
56
Rolex
6236
“The Guido Mondani Killy”
205
Tissot
181
Rolex
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
45
Tudor
9401/0
Marine Nationale “Snowfake”
182
Rolex
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
137
Ulysse Nardin
7025
183
Rolex
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
173
Ulysse Nardin
7536-2
54
Rolex
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
93
Universal
224’114
Aero-Compax
13
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona “Jumbo Logo”
94
Universal
885’107
Compax “Exotic Nina”
151
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona
109
Vacheron Constantin
159
Rolex
6239
Daytona “Paul Newman”
146
Vacheron Constantin
4072
6
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona
148
Vacheron Constantin
4072
97
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph “Fuerza Aérea del Perú”
107
Vacheron Constantin
4178
214
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
104
Vacheron Constantin
4240
50
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona
147
Vacheron Constantin
4240
“Paul Newman - John Player Special”
108
Vacheron Constantin
4461
152
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
106
Vacheron Constantin
4657
217
Rolex
6262
Daytona “Paul Newman -
105
Vacheron Constantin
4659
“Crab Lugs”
Musqueteer dial”
143
Vacheron Constantin
6022
“Diavolo”
“Don Pancho”
99
Rolex
6262
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
144
Vacheron Constantin
6307
100
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
145
Vacheron Constantin
6782
101
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph
141
Voutilainen
120
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona
76
Vulcain
100506.023
Cricket
25
Rolex
6263
Oyster Cosmograph “
172
Zenith
A384
El Primero
Fuerza Aérea del Perú” 24
Rolex
6263
Oyster Cosmograph
“Turnograph” Vingt-8 GMT
Paddle Number
7 rue de la Confédération, 1204 Geneva phillipswatches.com +41 22 317 8181 bidsgeneva@phillips.com • Private Purchases: Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identification and proof of address will be required.
Please return this form by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com at least 24 hours before the sale. Please read carefully the information in the right column and note that it is important that you indicate whether you are applying to bid as an individual or on behalf of a company. Please select the type of bid you wish to make with this form (please select one):
In-person Absentee Bidding Telephone Bidding
• Conditions Of Sale: All bids are placed and executed, and all lots are sold and purchased, subject to the Conditions of Sale printed in the catalogue. Please read them carefully before placing a bid. Your attention is drawn to Paragraph 4 of the Conditions of Sale.
Please indicate in what capacity you will be bidding (please select one):
• If you cannot attend the sale, we can execute bids confdentially on your behalf.
As a private individual On behalf of a company Sale Title Title
Sale Number First Name
Sale Date
Surname Account Number
Company (if applicable)
• Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF400,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF400,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 13.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. • “Buy” or unlimited bids will not be accepted. Alternative bids can be placed by using the word “OR” between lot numbers.
Address
City
• For absentee bids, indicate your maximum limit for each lot, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable VAT. Your bid will be executed at the lowest price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. On no reserve lots, in the absence of other bids, your bid will be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount specifed, if less than 50% of the low estimate.
State/Country
Zip Code Phone
Mobile
Fax
• Your bid must be submitted in the currency of the sale and will be rounded down to the nearest amount consistent with the auctioneer’s bidding increments.
Phone number to call at the time of sale (for Phone Bidding only) 1.
• If we receive identical bids, the frst bid received will take precedence.
2.
Please complete the following section for telephone and absentee bids only Lot Number
• Company Purchases: We require a Letter of Authorisation signed by a company director for the noted individual to transact on the company’s behalf and a copy of government-issued identifcation (such as the certifcate of incorporation) to verify the status of the company. This should be accompanied by an ofcial document confrming the company’s EU VAT registration number, if applicable.
Brief Description
In Consecutive Order
Maximum Swiss Francs price* Absentee Bids Only
• Arranging absentee and telephone bids is a free service provided by us to prospective buyers. While we will exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for errors relating to execution of your bids except in cases of wilful misconduct. Agreement to bid by telephone must be confrmed by you promptly in writing or by fax. Telephone bid lines may be recorded. • Please submit your bids to the Bid Department by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com or by fax at +41 22 317 8180 at least 24 hours before the sale. You will receive confirmation by email within one business day. To reach the Bid Department by phone please call +41 22 317 8181. • Payment for lots can be made by credit card (up to CHF100,000) using Visa, American Express or MasterCard, or by wire transfer. Please note that credit cards are subject to a surcharge. • Lots cannot be collected until payment has cleared and all charges have been paid. • By signing this Bid Form, you acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with Phillips’s Privacy Policy as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. • Phillips’s premises and sale and exhibition venues may be subject to video surveillance and recording. Telephone calls (e.g., telephone bidding) may also be recorded. We may process that information in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
* Excluding Buyer’s Premium and VAT
Signature
Date
By ticking this box, you confrm your registration/bid(s) as above and accept the Conditions of Sale of Phillips as stated in our catalogues and on our website.
Please tick this box to receive emails about upcoming sales, exhibitions, and special events ofered by members of the Phillips group, as referenced in our Privacy Policy available on our website at www.phillips.com, where you may also update your email preferences or unsubscribe at any time.
Guide for Prospective Buyers Buying at Auction The following pages are designed to ofer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staf will be happy to assist you. Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller. Bidders should also read the Important Notices immediately following this Guide for Prospective Buyers. Buyer’s Premium and Vat Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF400,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF400,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 13.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. Value added tax (VAT) of 7.7% is payable on the hammer price and the buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. The purchase price payable for any lot is the sum of the hammer price plus the buyer’s premium plus VAT. 1 Prior to Auction Catalogue Subscriptions If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +41 22 317 8181, +44 20 7318 4010 or +1 212 940 1240. Pre-Sale Estimates Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, ofer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where ‘Estimate on Request’ appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or VAT. Pre-Sale Estimates in US Dollars and Euros Although the sale is conducted in Swiss francs, the pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogues may also be printed in US dollars and/or euros. Since the exchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date of auction, you should treat estimates in US dollars or euros as a guide only. Catalogue Entries Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work of art, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the work in art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions of the property set forth in the catalogue entry are approximate. Condition of Lots Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staf are not professional restorers. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of signifcant value, that you retain
your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding. Moreover, condition reports are not exhaustive and may not specify all mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate bases(s) or dome. The absence of a condition report or the absence of a reference to damage in the catalogue does not imply that the lot is in good condition, working order or free from restoration or repair. Pre-Auction Viewing Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists are available to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment. Symbol Key The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue. O Guaranteed Property Lots designated with the symbol ○ are the subject of a minimum price guarantee. In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless of the outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. This guarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party. ♦ Third Party Guarantee Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the fnancial risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee. Because the sums involved can be signifcant Phillips may choose to share the burden of that fnancial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk by committing in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot for an agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In this way the third-party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching the amount of the minimum price guarantee. In return for underwriting or sharing this risk Phillips will usually compensate the third party. The compensation may be in the form of a fxed fee or an amount calculated by reference to the hammer price of the lot. If the third-party guarantor is the successful bidder Phillips will report the purchase price net of any fees paid to the third-party guarantor. Δ Property in which Phillips has an Ownership Interest Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest.
•
No Reserve Unless indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are ofered subject to a reserve. A reserve is the confdential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate. ∑ Regulated Species Lots with this symbol have been identifed at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale. 2 Bidding in the Sale Bidding at Auction Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identifcation will be required, as will an original signature. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference. Undisclosed agreements between bidders to bid or abstain from bidding on lots are illegal. Please note that Phillips monitors its sales and bidding records to ensure that bidding is transparent and fair and will take appropriate action in the event of any suspected breach of this requirement.
3 The Auction Bidding in Person To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufcient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staf member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk. Bidding by Telephone If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multilingual staf members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone. Online Bidding If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe Flash Player. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The frst time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafer you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate frewalls may cause difculties for online bidders. Absentee Bids If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confdential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. Employee Bidding Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the huissier or the auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’), may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. Bidding Increments Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the Auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment. CHF50 to CHF1,000 CHF1,000 to CHF2,000 CHF2,000 to CHF3,000 CHF3,000 to CHF5,000 CHF5,000 to CHF10,000 CHF10,000 to CHF20,000 CHF20,000 to CHF30,000 CHF30,000 to CHF50,000 CHF50,000 to CHF100,000 CHF100,000 to CHF200,000 above CHF200,000
by CHF50s by CHF100s by CHF200s by CHF200s, 500, 800 (i.e., CHF4,200, 4,500, 4,800) by CHF500s by CHF1,000s by CHF2,000s by CHF2,000s, 5,000, 8,000 by CHF5,000s by CHF10,000s at the Auctioneer’s discretion
The Auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.
Conditions of Sale As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or Auctioneer’s announcement. Interested Parties Announcement In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the benefciary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot. Consecutive and Responsive Bidding; No Reserve Lots The Auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The Auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low presale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. 4 After the Auction Payment Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements have been agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in Swiss francs by wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. Neither cash nor checks will be accepted. Credit Cards As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Poste Carte, Maestro and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. Collection It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Loss or Damage Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction. Transport and Shipping As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling or shipping services directly. However, we will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by you in order to facilitate the packing, handling and shipping of property purchased at Phillips. Please refer to Paragraph 7 of the Conditions of Sale for more information. Export and Import Licences Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export the property from Switzerland or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licences or permits. The denial of any required licence or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot.
Important Notices Regulated Species Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a licence or certifcate prior to exportation and additional licences or certifcates upon importation to the US or to any country within or outside the European Union (EU). Please note that the ability to obtain an export licence or certifcate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import licence or certifcate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licences or certifcates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientifc analysis regarding continent of origin and confrmation the object is more than 100 years old. We have not obtained a scientifc analysis on any lot prior to sale and cannot indicate whether elephant ivory in a particular lot is African or Asian elephant. Buyers purchase these lots at their own risk and will be responsible for the costs of obtaining any scientifc analysis or other report required in connection with their proposed import of such property into the US. With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identifcation and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the object qualifes as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certifying the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualifed independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot. Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. Privacy Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be flmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications. Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Condition Phillips makes no representation or warranty that any watch or clock is in working order, and no catalogue description of any lot should be construed as so stating. Prospective buyers are advised to have watches and clocks checked by a competent watchmaker or watch or clock restorer before use. As a service to prospective buyers, we may provide a description of the condition of watches and clocks in the catalogue entry, including references to defects and repairs, and furnish a condition report, but such information is not necessarily complete and may not specify all mechanical replacements, restorations or defects. Please note that Phillips does not guarantee the authenticity of any individual components parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since prior repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Nor does Phillips warrant that watches in waterresistant cases are currently water-resistant. Prospective buyers should inspect all watches and clocks prior to the auction to evaluate the condition of property ofered for sale. Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species Some of the watches ofered for sale in the catalogue may have bands made of endangered or protected animal materials, such as alligator or crocodile, and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained in Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers, these lots are marked with ∑ in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle. Authenticity Certifcates Certain manufacturers do not issue certifcates of authenticity, and Phillips has no obligation to furnish a buyer with a certifcate of authenticity from the manufacturer, except when specifcally noted in the catalogue. Unless Phillips is satisfed that we should cancel the sale in accordance with the Authorship Warranty provided in the Conditions of Sale, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certifcate will not constitute grounds for cancellation of the sale.
Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set forth below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale, the Important Notices immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers and the Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding.
fact but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time by Phillips at our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our afliated companies shall be liable for any diference between the presale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale.
1 Introduction Each lot in this catalogue is ofered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms printed in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Important Notices and (c) supplements to this catalogue or other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction.
4 Bidding at Auction (a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips.
By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty. These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer. 2 Phillips As Agent Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company afliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an afliated company may have a legal, benefcial or fnancial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise. 3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis. (a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports as is consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made. (b) Each lot ofered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the lot prior to bidding and have satisfed themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description. (c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type which means that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they are inspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports may make reference to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may have other faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identifcation purposes only and cannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to the actual condition of lots. (d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of
(b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’s behalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Absentee Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate the maximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and value added tax (VAT). The huissier or auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’) will not accept an instruction to execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. (c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Telephone Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confrmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately afer such bid is accepted by the Auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation.
(d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online, bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction. Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids through Phillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid button on the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge and agree that bids so submitted are fnal and may not under any circumstances be amended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids are placed, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘foor’ bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In the event that an online bid and a ‘foor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘foor’ bid may take precedence at the Auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by the Auctioneer, as the Auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in a whole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges unless it has been explicitly agreed in writing with Phillips before the commencement of the auction that the bidder is acting as agent on behalf of an identifed third party acceptable to Phillips and that we will only look to the principal for such payment.
(f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, each prospective buyer represents and warrants that any bids placed by such person, or on such person’s behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are otherwise consistent with federal and state antitrust law.
(g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct. (h) Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the Auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. 5 Conduct of the Auction (a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is ofered subject to a reserve, which is the confdential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction. (b) The Auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot, re-ofer a lot for sale (including afer the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the Auctioneer. If any dispute arises afer the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The Auctioneer may accept bids made by a company afliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot. (c) The Auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and in increments he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on any lot, the Auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. (d) The sale will be conducted in Swiss francs and payment is due in Swiss francs. For the beneft of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue may be shown in US dollars and/or euros and, if so, will refect approximate exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in US dollars or euros should be treated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it is done so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any errors in currency conversion calculation. (e) Subject to the Auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder accepted by the Auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks the acceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between the seller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set forth in Paragraph 7 below. (f) If a lot is not sold, the Auctioneer will announce that it has been ‘passed’, ‘withdrawn’, ‘returned to owner’ or ‘bought-in’. (g) Any post-auction sale of lots ofered at auction shall incorporate these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction. 6 Purchase Price and Payment (a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, the buyer’s premium, plus any applicable value added tax (VAT) (the ‘Purchase Price’). The buyer’s premium is 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF400,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF400,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 13.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. Phillips reserves the right to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more third parties for assisting in the sale of property ofered and sold at auction.
(b) VAT of 7.7% is payable on the hammer price plus buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of VAT. (c) Unless otherwise agreed, a buyer is required to pay for a purchased lot immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot. Payments must be made by the invoiced party in Swiss francs by wire transfer in accordance with the bank transfer details provided on the invoice for purchased lots. (d) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Poste Carte, Maestro and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. (e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identifcation has been provided, and any earlier release does not afect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price. 7 Collection of Property (a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our afliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfed such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including completing any anti-money laundering or anti-terrorism fnancing checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfed all of the foregoing conditions, he or she should contact us at +41 22 317 8181 to arrange for collection of purchased property. (b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days afer the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss or damage to property.
(c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling, insurance or shipping services. We will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer, whether or not recommended by Phillips, in order to facilitate the packing, handling, insurance and shipping of property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. (d) Phillips will require presentation of government-issued identifcation prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative. 8 Failure to Collect Purchases (a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of CHF10 per day for each uncollected lot. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full. (b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our afliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction. 9 Remedies for Non-Payment (a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds
within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one or more of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips‘s premises or elsewhere at the buyer’s sole risk and expense; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any partial payment of the Purchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer or render such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% per annum from the date payment became due until the date the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (v) subject to notifcation of the buyer, exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct our afliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such notice arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amount owed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all salerelated expenses and any applicable taxes thereon; (vi) resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for less than the original hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, the buyer will remain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii) commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) set of the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts which we or any of our afliated companies may owe the buyer in any other transactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal costs; or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate. (b) The buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to exercise a lien over the buyer’s property which is in our possession upon notifcation by any of our afliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment. Phillips will notify the buyer of any such lien. The buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips, upon notifcation by any of our afliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment, to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our afliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an afliated company by way of pledge.
(c) If the buyer is in default of payment, the buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to instruct any of our afliated companies in possession of the buyer’s property to deliver the property by way of pledge as the buyer’s agent to a third party instructed by Phillips to hold the property on our behalf as security for the payment of the Purchase Price and any other amount due and, no earlier than 30 days from the date of written notice to the buyer, to sell the property in such manner and for such consideration as can reasonably be obtained on a forced sale basis and to apply the proceeds to any amount owed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon. 10 Rescission by Phillips Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale. 11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licences and Permits Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export a lot from Switzerland or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the
US only if accompanied by independent scientifc analysis of continent of origin and confrmation the object is more than 100 years old. With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identifcation and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the item qualifes as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certify the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object containing endangered species into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualifed independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot.
It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any necessary export, import and endangered species licences or permits. Failure to obtain a licence or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. 12 Privacy (a) You acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with our privacy policy from time to time as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. (b) Our privacy policy sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data (including for example the provision of auction, private sale and related services; the performance and enforcement of these terms and conditions; the carrying out of identity and credit checks; keeping you informed about upcoming auctions, exhibitions and special events; and generally where reasonably necessary in the management and operation of our business); (iii) the lawful bases on which we rely in undertaking our processing of your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. (c) Phillips premises and sale and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes and will be flmed during the auction for simultaneous live broadcast on our and third party websites and applications. By remaining in these areas, you acknowledge that you may be photographed, flmed and recorded and grant your permission for your likeness and voice to be included in such recordings. If you do not wish to be photographed or flmed or appear in such recordings, please speak to a member of Phillips staf. Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g. telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com. 13 Limitation of Liability (a) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot. (b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 13, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our afliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our afliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot. (c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and ftness for purpose, are
Authorship Warranty specifcally excluded by Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law. (d) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in sub-paragraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterised as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law. (e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our afliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions. 14 Copyright The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it. 15 General (a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements. (b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specifed at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notifed by them in writing to Phillips. (c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives. (d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and efect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part. 16 Law and Jurisdiction (a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with Swiss law. (b) For the beneft of Phillips, all bidders and sellers agree that the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva, Switzerland are to have exclusive jurisdiction to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply, subject to appeal to the Federal Tribunal. All parties agree that Phillips shall retain the right to bring proceedings in any court other than the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva. (c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by Swiss law, the law of the place of service or the law of the jurisdiction where proceedings are instituted at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips.
Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in BOLD or CAPITALIZED type for a period of fve years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below and the Important Notices set out in this catalogue immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e., the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gif from the original buyer, heirs, successors, benefciaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue states that there is a confict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientifc methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot; or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry. (b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us. (c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notifed Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the salesroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising afer the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above. (d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our afliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.
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Sale Information
Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland
Watch Department Geneva Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Senior Consultant Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com Head of Sale & Specialist Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
Auction 11 May 2019, 5pm Lots 1–109 12 May 2019, 5pm Lots 110-220 Under the aegis of Maître Michel Jaquiery, Huissier Judiciaire Viewing Thursday 9 May, 10am–7pm Friday 10 May, 10am–6pm Saturday 11 May, 10am–4pm Sunday 12 May, 10am–4pm Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080119 or The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE. Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Specialist Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Specialist Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com Business Development Manager Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com Administrator Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com Shipping & Ofce Coordinator Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60 aaubertin@phillips.com Finance & Ofce Administration Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Hong Kong Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Tokyo Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
Head of Watches, Hong Kong Jill Chen +852 2318 2033 jchen@phillips.com
Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Head of Sale & Specialist Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032 zho@phillips.com
Taiwan Senior Specialist Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Cataloguer Kenneth Chan +852 2318 2045 kchan@phillips.com Administrator Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031 jackylam@phillips.com London International Specialist James Marks +44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com Administrator & Client Liaison Helena Cross +44 20 7901 2907 helena.cross@phillips.com New York Head of Watches Americas, International Strategy Advisor Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com Associate Specialist, Cataloguer Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Business Development Manager Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com Consultant Geof Hess +1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com Paris International Business Development Director Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
Consultant Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
Catalogues catalogueswatches@phillips.com Catalogues 50 CHF/£35/$50 Client Accounts clientaccountswatches@phillips.com Shipping shippingwatches@phillips.com Photography Jess Hofman
Le Loti Le Lodge Le Café Lauren Le Tsé Fung •
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