Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 [catalogue] by PHILLIPS

8 NOVEMBER 2024

RELOADED

THE REBIRTH OF MECHANICAL WATCHMAKING, 1980–1999

8 NOVEMBER 2024, 2PM

Auction & Viewing Location

Hotel President, a Luxury Collection Hotel

Quai Wilson 47 1201 Geneva, Switzerland

Auction

Friday 8 November 2024, 2pm

Under the aegis of Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire

Viewing

Wednesday, 6 November, 10am–7pm Thursday, 7 November, 9am–6pm Friday, 8 November, 9am–1pm Saturday, 9 November, 9am–1pm Sunday, 10 November, 9am–1pm

Sale Designation

When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080524 or Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980–1999.

Absentee and Telephone Bids

Tel +41 22 317 8181

Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com

Advisory Board

Jean-Claude Biver

Henry Chan

Helmut Crott

Ike Honigstock

Stephen Charles Li

David Lou

TK Mak

Auro Montanari

Jason Singer

Kenneth Wong

Watch Department, Geneva

Senior Consultants

Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com

Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com

Client Relations Manager at Bacs & Russo

Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com

Executive Assistant & Client Relations at Bacs & Russo

Athena Bras +41 22 317 9665 abras@phillipsbacsrusso.com

Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe & Middle East Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 81 81 aghotbi@phillips.com

Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist Tiffany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com

Specialist and Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com

Senior Specialist/Perpetual Gstaad Clement Finet +41 79 173 03 45 cfinet@phillips.com

International Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com

Senior Editorial Manager Logan Baker +1 346 445 0068 lbaker@phillips.com

Social Media Manager

Lucie Delaporte +41 79 537 58 02 ldelaporte@phillips.com

Video Producer Arthur Touchais atouchais@phillips.com

International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 8184 mchristinaz@phillips.com

Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com

Head of Strategic Partnerships & Events, Watches, Europe & Middle East Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com

Senior Administrator Tina Schmitt +41 22 317 96 67 tschmitt@phillips.com

Senior Shipping Coordinator Charles-Henri Gounod +41 79 532 0395 chgounod@phillips.com

Senior Shipping Coordinator David Wagner +41 22 317 8181 dwagner@phillips.com

Finance & Office Administration

Alexia Rinalducci +41 22 317 96 71 arinalducci@phillips.com

Watchmaker, Technical Support

Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com

Photographer Jess Hoffman contact@jesshoffman.ch

OUR TEAM WATCHES

SENIOR EXECUTIVES

EDWARD DOLMAN

Executive Chairman and Chief Executive Officer +1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com © Brigitte Lacombe

CHEYENNE WESTPHAL

Global Chairwoman +44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com

SENIOR CONSULTANTS

AUREL BACS

Senior Consultant

+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@ phillipsbacsrusso.com

EXECUTIVES

JONATHAN CROCKETT

Chairman, Asia +852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com

AMANDA LO IACONO

Deputy CEO +1 212 940 1278 aloiacono@phillips.com

LIVIA RUSSO

Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@ phillipsbacsrusso.com

JEAN-PAUL ENGELEN

President, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1390 jpengelen@phillips.com

JAMIE NIVEN

Senior Advisor to the CEO +1 917 880 2532 jniven@phillips.com

ALAIN LI

Senior Advisor to Chairman’s Office, Asia +852 2318 2000 alainli@phillips.com

DEREK COLLINS

Senior Consultant to Chairman’s Office, Asia +852 2318 2000 derekcollins@phillips.com

DEPUTY CHAIRMEN & CHAIRWOMEN

ROBERT MANLEY

Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com

JEREMIAH EVARTS

Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +1 917 304 4329 jevarts@phillips.com

PAUL BOUTROS

Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com

PETER SUMNER

Deputy Chairman, Europe, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com

CARY LEIBOWITZ

Deputy Chairman, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Editions +1 212 940 1222 cleibowitz@phillips.com

ALEXANDRE GHOTBI

Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe and Middle East +41 22 317 81 81 aghotbi@phillips.com

MIETY HEIDEN

Deputy Chairwoman, Head of Private Sales +44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com

VANESSA HALLETT

Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Head of Photographs +1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com

KELLY TROESTER

Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Editions +1 212 940 1221 ktroester@phillips.com

CINDY YEN

Deputy Chairwoman, General Manager, Taiwan +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com

SCOTT NUSSBAUM

Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1354 snussbaum@phillips.com

VIVIAN PFEIFFER

Deputy Chairman, Senior International Specialist, New Markets +1 212 940 1392 vpfeiffer@phillips.com

KEVIE YANG

Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1254 kyang@phillips.com

MARIANNE HOET

Deputy Chairwoman, Europe, Senior Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +32 3257 3026 mhoet@phillips.com

THOMAS PERAZZI

Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@ phillips.com

SENIOR CONSULTANTS

AUREL BACS

Senior Consultant

+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@ phillipsbacsrusso.com

LIVIA RUSSO

Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@ phillipsbacsrusso.com

CLARA KESSI

Client Relations Manager +41 22 317 81 88 ckessi@ phillipsbacsrusso.com

ATHENA BRAS

Executive Assistant & Client Relations +41 22 317 96 65 abras@ phillipsbacsrusso.com

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

MYRIAM CHRISTINAZ

International Business Director +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com

DIGITAL MARKETING

ARTHUR TOUCHOT

International Head of Digital Strategy +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com

PANSY KU

International Business Development Director +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com

LOGAN BAKER

Senior Editorial Manager

+1 346 445 0068 lbaker@phillips.com

GENEVA

ALEXANDRE GHOTBI

Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe and Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81 aghotbi@phillips.com

TIFFANY TO Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist

+41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com

LUCIE DELAPORTE

Social Media Manager +41 22 317 9668 ldelaporte@phillips.com

DIANA ORTEGA

Head of Strategic Partnerships & Events, Watches, Europe & Middle East +41 22 317 81 87 dortega@phillips.com

ARTHUR TOUCHAIS

Video Producer atouchais@phillips.com

MARCELLO DE MARCO

Specialist and Business Development Associate +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com

CLEMENT FINET

Senior Specialist

Perpetual Gstaad +41 79 173 03 45 cfinet@phillips.com

REGIONAL DIRECTOR

NATHALIE MONBARON

Regional Director, Business Development Director +41 22 317 81 83 nmonbaron@phillips.com

HONG KONG

THOMAS PERAZZI

Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@ phillips.com

DANIEL SUM

Senior Consultant +852 6887 5110 danielsum@phillips.com

TAIWAN

CINDY YEN

Deputy Chairwoman, General Manager, Taiwan +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com

GERTRUDE WONG

Head of Sale, Specialist +852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@ phillips.com

ALVIN LAU

Specialist +852 2318 2035 alvinlau@phillips.com

DAVID GENG

Consultant +86 130 0321 9769 davidgeng@phillips.com

SINGAPORE

ZI YONG HO

Senior International Specialist +65 9820 3837 ziyongho@phillips.com

LEON HUANG

Regional Representative +886 2 2758 5505 lhuang@phillips.com

JACLYN LI

Consultant

+1 617 697 5030 jli@phillips.com

PATRICIA KURATH

Client Relationship Manager, Perpetual +41 44 300 3002 pkurath@phillips.com

JONATHAN SIU Specialist, Perpetual +852 2318 2075 jonathansiu@phillips.com

TOKYO

GENKI SAKAMOTO

Senior Specialist Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com

VIETNAM

VY TRAN Consultant +84 708770837 vytran@phillips.com

LONDON

CHRISTOPHER YOUÉ

Senior Specialist

Head of Perpetual London +44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com

YUNYI XU

Cataloguer +852 2318 2074 yunyixu@phillips.com

LYDIA IP Cataloguer +852 2318 2015 lydiaIp@phillips.com

KAZ FUJIMOTO

Senior Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com

NEW YORK

PAUL BOUTROS

Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com

DOUG ESCRIBANO

Senior International Specialist +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com

RIKA DILA

Senior Consultant +66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com

ISABELLA PROIA

Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com

ZURICH

THAILAND

CHINA

WELCOME

By Alexandre Ghotbi & Tiffany To

ALEXANDRE GHOTBI Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe

TIFFANY TO Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist

From Gordon Gekko’s famous line « Greed is Good”, to the immense Live Aid concerts to raise funds to help alleviate the Ethiopian famine, the 1980s and 1990s are characterized by paradoxical change, innovation, all in the name of boyant cultural and artistic creativity. From the fall of the Berlin Wall, to the introduction of the PC, the internet, the rise of independent art cinema and music, the greatest pop stars of all time and blockbuster films, to the rise of pop, metal, hip-hop, grunge or techno, this decade was marked by a series of opposites that flourished in harmony.

Even in the watch world, the arrival of cheap quartz technology destroyed the Swiss mechanical watch industry. Ironically, it was the quartz Swatch watch that saved the very same industry.

During the last two decades of the 20th Century, the watchmaking industry was at crossroads: disappear or reinvent itself to survive. Not only did it choose the latter, it even redefined itself. By pioneering designs, groundbreaking complications, independent watchmakers paved the way for the thriving landscape of today.

During these pivotal decades, watchmakers and brands dug deep to create some of the most innovative and complex mechanical watches ever seen. It is a period that witnessed the resurrection and redefinition of mechanical watchmaking, not as a relic of the past but as a forward-looking art form imbued with modern sensibilities.

This catalog is more than just a collection of watches; it is a curated exploration of a transformative era, one that saw the convergence of traditional craftsmanship and avant-garde innovation.

Each timepiece featured in this auction tells a story – not just of the brand that created it, but of a watchmaking community that refused to let the art of mechanical watchmaking fade into obscurity.

Choosing the watches was not an easy task as the period we cover is so rich in icons, that is the reason we aimed for timepieces that are surprising, seldom seen and that embody the resilience, creativity, and visionary spirit of this exciting epoch.

We hope that you enjoy our selection as much as we enjoyed curating it and join us in a time machine taking across time and space.

8 NOVEMBER 2024, 2PM LOTS 1–65

RELOADED: A celebration of mechanical watchmaking’s rebirth, from 1980 to 1999.

The 1980s and 1990s were decades of radical transformation. The world was charged with the electrifying energy of independent music, the allure of Hollywood blockbusters, and the groundbreaking advent of the digital age. Amid these cultural shifts, another revolution was quietly unfolding within the watchmaking industry. Threatened by the rise of quartz technology, which promised greater accuracy at a fraction of the cost, many feared that the mechanical timepiece – the centuries-old symbol of human ingenuity and craftsmanship – might soon be relegated to the annals of history. Quartz technology had threatened to render mechanical watchmaking obsolete, but instead of capitulating to the tide of change, the horological world mounted a stunning comeback, with a spirit of innovation and creativity that birthed what we now celebrate as the neo-vintage era – defined here as the high-end wristwatches produced between 1980 and 1999. These were the years when the watchmaking industry did not just survive; it redefined itself. Pioneering designs, groundbreaking complications, and the rise of independent watchmakers paved the way for the thriving landscape of today. During these pivotal decades, watchmakers and brands dug deep to create some of the most innovative and complex mechanical watches ever seen. It is a period that witnessed the resurrection and redefinition of the mechanical watch, not as a relic of the past but as a forward-looking craft imbued with modern sensibilities.

The Quartz Revolution: A Catalyst for Reinvention

To understand the significance of this period, one must first look back at the preceding decades, which brought about one of the greatest existential threats to traditional watchmaking: the Quartz Revolution. Emerging in the late 1960s and exploding in the 1970s, the Quartz Revolution, or Quartz Crisis as it is often called, revolutionized timekeeping with its unprecedented accuracy, affordability, and ease of production. Japanese brands led the charge, flooding the market with quartz watches that left the mechanical watch industry at a crossroads. The result was a seismic shift in consumer sentiment, with quartz watches quickly dominating sales and the swiss watch industry, regarded as the epicenter of horological excellence, was particularly hard hit. Yet, amid this tumultuous period, a quiet but powerful rebirth began to take shape – one that would redefine watchmaking and give birth to the neo-vintage era. Watchmakers and brands that had long been steeped in tradition had to reimagine their craft. By the late 1970s and early 1980s, the industry began to rally. Swiss watchmakers, along with a burgeoning group of independent artisans, recognized that survival required more than just a return to old methods. It demanded innovation – a reimagining of what a mechanical watch could be. The neo-vintage era was born out of this necessity, characterized by a renewed focus on technical complexity, aesthetic and material innovation, and a deepening appreciation for the artistry of watchmaking. The creations of this period were no longer merely functional timekeeping devices but also symbols of mechanical mastery and expressions of individuality.

Design Innovation

This era marked a period of experimentation and creativity, where brands began to realize that the key to survival was not just to maintain the status quo, but to push the boundaries of horology. Several forward-thinking designers and watchmakers stepped up to redefine aesthetics and function in a bid to distinguish themselves from the burgeoning mass-market quartz segment One of the early innovators of this period was IWC, which embraced the use of novel materials with its use of PVD coatings and the introduction of ceramic cases. The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, launched in 1985, stood out not only for its ingenious perpetual calendar mechanism designed by Kurt Klaus but also for its bold aesthetic that combined traditional watchmaking with a distinctly modern flair. The use of ceramic was a testament to IWC’s willingness to innovate and challenge the norms of the time. This approach would set the stage for a broader trend of material experimentation that would define the era.

Designers like Gérald Genta pushed the boundaries by playing with unusual metals and groundbreaking case designs. Known as the “Picasso of Watchmaking,” Genta had already revolutionized the industry in the 1970s with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. In the 1980s and 1990s, he continued to innovate, working under his own name to experiment with exotic materials like tantalum, bronze, and exotic Yttrium, creating unique, complicated, and highly collectible pieces that stood apart from the conventional steel and gold offerings of the time. Meanwhile, the likes of Daniel Roth, Roger Dubuis, and Vianney Halter, all of whom would go on to be pivotal figures in independent watchmaking, began to establish their distinctive design languages. Roth, who worked for Breguet in the late 1970s and 1980s, played a significant role in reviving the brand’s classical aesthetics, characterized by the now-iconic Breguet hands, guilloché dials, and fluted cases. His departure from Breguet and subsequent launch of his own brand in 1988 marked a significant shift towards more individualized, artisanal watchmaking – a key theme of the neo-vintage period. Vianney Halter, another innovative mind, began experimenting with avant-garde designs that challenged the conventions of watch aesthetics. His approach combined the mechanical prowess of the past with a visionary futuristic style, paving the way for what would later become his steampunk-inspired pieces, such as the “Antiqua.” These were not just watches but bold statements of individuality and craftsmanship that hinted at the direction high-end watchmaking was heading.

The Rise of Complications: Pushing the Limits

Parallel to the bold design choices, the era saw an equally significant resurgence in the pursuit of mechanical complications, as brands sought to reassert the value of traditional watchmaking in the face of quartz precision. Quartz watches could not replicate the poetry and technical mastery of a well-crafted perpetual calendar or minute repeater. In response, several key players began to develop highly sophisticated movements that highlighted the full potential of mechanical watchmaking.

Under the stewardship of Philippe Stern, Patek Philippe rose to prominence with a focus on preserving and advancing the art of complications. Stern, who became president of the brand in 1976, was a visionary who recognized that the future of Patek Philippe lay not in competing with quartz but in doubling down on its heritage as a maker of fine, complicated watches. This vision led to the creation of some of the most celebrated watches of the neo-vintage era, such as the Patek Philippe Ref. 3970, Ref. 3974, and Ref. 3979. Blancpain, under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver, also emerged as a force to be reckoned with during this era. The brand, which was revived in 1983 after being dormant for nearly two decades, made a bold statement with the introduction of the Blancpain Split-Seconds Perpetual Calendar. This watch, with its intricate rattrapante chronograph and perpetual calendar, embodied the ethos of the era by combining complexity with elegance. Similarly, Ulysse Nardin, under the guidance of Rolf Schnyder, who acquired the brand in 1983, redefined what was possible in mechanical watchmaking with the Trilogy of Time series, which began with the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei in 1985. The subsequent Tellurium Johannes Kepler and Planetarium Copernicus watches showcased astronomical complications that were not only mechanically brilliant but also artistically expressive. Breguet, meanwhile, continued its tradition of producing exceptional tourbillons, such as the Ref. 3350, which displayed the brand’s mastery of the complication. Under the ownership of Chaumet and later Investcorp, Breguet reinforced its position as a maker of classically inspired, highly complicated timepieces that honored the legacy of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, while appealing to the sensibilities of modern collectors.

The Birth of Independent Watchmaking: A New Dawn

While established brands played a crucial role in the neo-vintage renaissance, perhaps the most significant development of the era was the rise of independent watchmakers. The 1980s and 1990s saw the emergence of this new vanguard – watchmakers who operated outside the traditional corporate structures, driven by a passion for innovation and an uncompromising dedication to their craft. These independents became the torchbearers for a new kind of watchmaking, one that prioritized artistry and individuality over mass production. Philippe Dufour is perhaps the most celebrated name among the independents of this era. His commitment to traditional watchmaking methods and hand-finishing earned him a reputation without equal. The release of the Duality in 1996, the first wristwatch to feature dual escapements, was a testament to his technical prowess and innovative spirit. François-Paul Journe, another luminary of independent watchmaking, began his career in the 1980s and quickly established himself as a visionary. With his motto “Invenit et Fecit,” Journe created groundbreaking timepieces that were both technically innovative and aesthetically distinct. His early work, such as the Tourbillon Souverain, set new standards for precision and design. Svend Andersen, co-founder of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 1985, played a pivotal role in promoting independent watchmaking during the neovintage period. Known for his bespoke creations, Andersen’s work epitomized the artisanal spirit of the era, offering highly customized timepieces that catered to the desires of discerning collectors.

Michel Parmigiani, who founded Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996, also emerged as a significant figure in this movement. His approach combined traditional craftsmanship with a modern sensibility, resulting in watches that were both innovative and deeply rooted in the history of watchmaking. His early works, such as the Toric collection, displayed a unique blend of technical mastery and artistic expression that would become his signature.Lastly, Franck Muller, who signed his earliest watches as Franck Genève, made a significant impact with his flamboyant style and complex complications. Known as the “Master of Complications,” Muller’s early creations, such as the Double Chronograph, captivated collectors with their bold design and ingenious mechanics.

While established brands played a crucial role in the resurgence of mechanical watchmaking, the neo-vintage era was also defined by the rise of watchmakers like these men who brought fresh perspectives and ideas to the industry. These mavericks were unencumbered by the constraints of tradition and corporate oversight, allowing them to explore new horizons in watch design and engineering. Their work laid the groundwork for the flourishing independent watchmaking scene we see today, where creativity and innovation are paramount.

The Legacy of the Neo-Vintage Era

The neo-vintage era of the 1980s and 1990s stands as a pivotal chapter in the history of watchmaking, marking the transition from a period of crisis to a renaissance of creativity, and innovation. This period saw the rise of complications, the birth of independent watchmaking, and a renewed appreciation for the craftsmanship that underpins the world of watchmaking. Clearly, the watches produced during this time were more than just mechanical instruments. They were symbols of resilience, of creativity, and of the deep-seated belief in the enduring value of craftsmanship. Today, the legacy of the neo-vintage era is evident in the thriving landscape of contemporary watchmaking. The period’s spirit of innovation and independence has influenced contemporary brands, both large and small, to pursue creative freedom and technical mastery. For collectors, the watches of this period offer a unique blend of old-world craftsmanship and modern innovation – a combination that resonates deeply with those who appreciate both the heritage and the future of watchmaking. It is a period that serves as a testament to the enduring allure of mechanical watchmaking, one that continues to capture the hearts and minds of collectors and enthusiasts around the world.

In a world that is once again grappling with rapid technological change and shifting cultural landscapes, the lessons of the neovintage era are more relevant than ever. These watches remind us that even in the face of adversity, creativity and craftsmanship can not only survive but thrive. They are a testament to the timeless appeal of mechanical watchmaking, and we are proud to present them to you as part of this exceptional auction.

IWC A surprising and historically important yellow gold wristwatch with moonphase display, formerly owned by Günter Blümlein

Manufacturer IWC Year 1991

Reference No. 5251

Movement No. 2’317’882

Case No. 2’472’533

Model Name Portofino

Material 18k yellow gold

Calibre Manual, cal. 9521, 19 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Alligator

Clasp/Buckle 18k yellow gold IWC pin buckle

Dimensions 46mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 8,000–16,000

$9,400–18,900

€8,500–17,100

Accessories

Accompanied by IWC Certificate confirming purchase of the watch on December 20, 1991 and a copy of IWC ledgers showing the watch was sold to Günther Blümlein.

The present Portofino reference 5251 is historically important in more ways than one. Not only was it the model that debuted the Portofino line in 1984 but most importantly it was bought by Günther Blümlein on 20 December 1991 – most certainly as a Christmas present. Blümlein (1943–2001) is a man whose vision helped form the 21st century horological landscape as we know it. It has been said that without his stewardship, some of the industry’s greatest brands may not have been viable entities today. He was known not only for his technical skills but also as an excellent marketer, manager, and communicator. Blümlein entered the horological world at the precise moment the quartz crisis was wreaking havoc on brands – many having gone bankrupt, unable to compete with these highly accurate, low-cost movements.

In an effort to challenge this new revolution, the VDO Adolf Schindling group head, Albert Keck, sought to put two Swiss brands under one entity. The group brought IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne together under one management team. The name was changed to Les Manufactures Horlogères, and in 1982 Blümlein was appointed managing director. At IWC, Blümlein brought the IWC Grande Complication to market as well as working with Porsche to create titanium chronographs, and in a groundbreaking first, introduced the use of ceramic for a watch case. This watch finds its genesis in the desire for Kurt Klaus to create a wristwatch using the historic 9251 pocket caliber. The result is incredibly avant-garde for the time, a 46mm timepiece with a definitive vintage vibe but unheardof proportions and an elegant and subtle dial layout.

EBEL A lovely and heavy yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with early wave bracelet

Manufacturer Ebel Year Circa 1986

Reference No. 8134901

Case No. 301

Model Name Sports Classic Chronograph

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 134, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Ebel wave bracelet, stamped “0487” max length 195mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Ebel clasp

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 5,000–10,000

$5,900–11,900

€5,300–10,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Ebel fitted box, warranty card stamped Tourneau and dated October 27th, 1997, leather wallet, Tourneau watch warranty and hang tag.

You have to had been a child of the 80s to remember how utterly cool the Ebel Sports Classic Chronograph watch was and no other watch represented the insouciance and maximalism of the 1980s as this watch , especially in its yellow gold livery. And it is no mystery why it was the watch of choice of the white linen suite wearing and Testa Rossa driving Sonny Crockett in Miami Vice. Created in 1911, Ebel rapidly made a name for itself supplying private label watches to other brands. Ebel’s breakthrough came in the late 1970s when one of the founder’s grand children Pierre-Alain Blum took the helm making Ebel one of the most iconic brands of the 1980s–1990s.

The Sport Classique models were launched in 1977 with their defining “wave” bracelets, however it was not until 1982 that the chronograph model was presented, Ebel turning to Zenith to supply El Primero chronograph movements that they had stopped producing but still had a few in stock. Rolex is often credited for the revival of the El Primero movement when they introduced the automatic winding Daytona ref 16520, but that was in 1988, 6 years after Ebel had launched their version!

The present watch is in fact a rare transitional model made only in 1985/86 featuring the Zenith Cal 40.0. Furthermore the watch features the non luminous Mark 1 dial and the ultra rare yellow gold “wave” bracelet making the watch an extremely rare and collectable example.

PATEK PHILIPPE An uber rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with champagne dial, moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indication

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1986

Reference No. 3940J

Movement No. 770’119

Case No. 2’824’890

Material 18k yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 240 Q, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 45,000–90,000

$53,100–106,000

€48,000–96,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production in 1986 with gilt dial and subsequent sale on March 24, 1986.

Launched in 1985 and replacing ref. 3450, the legendary “Padellone”, the ref. 3940 features a rather classic Calatrava-style case with extremely clean proportions and dial layout. Powered by the allnew, ultra-thin caliber 240, Patek Philippe’s first movement to use a micro-rotor. Launched in four metals, yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum, the reference was offered in a total of three series with its production spanning until 2007. The reference was first produced for famed retailer Chronometrie Beyer in Zürich in a limited edition of 25 pieces to celebrate its 225th anniversary, each individually numbered bearing the Beyer signature on the dial.

This beautiful first generation reference 3940 is remarkable due to a number of reasons. It most notably displays a champagne dial, which is confirmed by the Extract from the Archives, furthermore, its distinctive traits confirm it to be one of the earlier iterations: the dial features sunken registers, a non”cross” leap year subdial, and it is also equipped with a solid caseback, with later examples featuring a transparent display caseback.

The present watch, fresh to the market, is one of only 9 known first series examples to be fitted with a champagne dial.

BLANCPAIN An elegant and extremely fine yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer Blancpain Year Circa 1991

Reference No. 5335–1418

Movement No. 48

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 5335, 39 jewels

Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Gay Frères for Blancpain bracelet, max length 185mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Blancpain deployant clasp

Dimensions 34mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 18,000–26,000

$21,200–30,700

€19,200–27,700

If there is one brand that exemplifies best the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking in the 1980s, it is undoubtedly Blancpain. In 1981, Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet (the owner of the Frederic Piguet movement manufactory) bought the rights to the name Blancpain (who had more or less gone out of business in the 1970s) and made it into one of the greatest power houses of the end on the century. The two men set out to create what they called the 6 Masterpieces: full calendar with moonphases, perpetual calendar, chronograph, minute repeater and tourbillon, and by the end of the 1980s they started combining these complications.

The 5335 combines a perpetual calendar and minute repeater, and even though Patek Philippe takes credit for creating the worlds very first wristwatch combining these complications with their reference 3974 both models came out the same year in 1989. However, new documentation shows that reference 5335 was launched in 1987 but further research is needed.

Interestingly the case of both the Patek Philippe reference 3974 and that of the Blancpain 5335 were both made by the man considered to be the greatest casemaker of all time: Jean-Pierre Hagmann, whose initials are featured inside the lugs of the present watch. The minute repeating slide of the ref 5335 is slightly hidden beneath the case and does not protrude leading one to think the watch is a simple perpetual calendar (were it not for the “repetition minutes” printed on the dial). The present example is offered in excellent condition and accompanied by a superbly lavish gold bracelet.

BREGUET An early and very rare platinum and pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with blank guarantee and box

Manufacturer Breguet Year Circa 1990

Reference No. 3450

Movement No. 12

Case No. 425 E

Material Platinum and 18k pink gold

Calibre Manual, cal. 558, 21 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k white gold pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Breguet fitted box, blank, undated and unstamped guarantee and outer packaging.

While the tourbillon is forever associated with Abraham-Louis Breguet (who invented this mechanism in 1801), it was not until 1988 that it was used in a Breguet wristwatch, after Daniel Roth was hired to bring back this illustrious brand.

Roth delved into the brand’s archives to familiarize himself further with Breguet’s works and the result was obviously a tourbillon wristwatch – ref 3350 – with all of the Breguet signatures such as the eponymous hands, guilloche dial and fluted caseband.

The reference 3450, like the present example was launched in the very early 1990s with a large opening for the tourbillon carriage at the lower part of the dial and the hour/minutes are offset on the top part of the dial.

The present reference 3450 is a very early example bearing movement number 12, the movement plate visible through the tourbillon opening has been delicately and lavishly hand engraved with an Arabesque motif that is repeated on the back plate.

The case is also quite unusual and rare, in platinum it features two rose gold bands running parallel to each other, enclosing the coin edge.

AUDEMARS PIGUET A superb platinum minute repeating wristwatch with rotating discs display, number 5 of a limited edition of 10 pieces

Manufacturer Audemars Piguet Year Circa 1995

Reference No. 25881

Case No.

D71823 caseback further engraved N° 5

Model Name John Shaeffer

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, cal. 2867, 32 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum APCo pin buckle

Dimensions 33.5mm Length and 33.5mm Width (excluding lugs)

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

In 1923, Audemars Piguet created a minute repeating wristwatch (with a movement made in 1907) for John Shaeffer, the vice-chairman of the Allied Chemical and Dye Corporation. A few years later in 1927, the dial was personalised with the numerals being replaced by the letters of the owner’s name. The case furthermore featured a purely art deco cushion shape. In 1995, Audemars Piguet presented a new collection housed in this particular Art Deco inspired case and named it after John Shaeffer.

The present example features a minute repeating mechanism like its forefather, but contained within the centre of the dial is the main attraction – the wandering-hours display. A watch with no hands, the Star Wheel must be one of, if not, the most daring and avantgarde timepieces in the Audemars Piguet collection. It was in 1992 that Audemars Piguet rediscovered and reintroduced this unusual mechanism that originally elaborated in the 18th century upon the request of Pope Alexander VII.

Joining creativity, beauty and technical wonder, the asymmetrical time display is made thanks to three rotating sapphire disks with printed hours rotating on a centre wheel respectively pointing to the minutes on the upper part of the dial.

Made in a limited edition of 10 pieces of which the present example is number 5, the watch is in overall excellent condition with crisp clear strikes.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN A superbly crated skeletonized platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, guarantee and presentation box

Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year 1987

Reference No. 43032

Movement No. 742’126

Case No. 573’934

Material Platinum

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1120QP, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Vacheron Constantin pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin fitted box, certificate of origin and guarantee, product literature and outer packaging.

Vacheron Constantin has a long history of skeletonising pocket watches and clocks, often lavishly hand engraving each component.

In 1983, the brand introduced its first modern perpetual calendar wristwatch, reference 43031, which was a tribute to the brand’s perpetual calendar pocket watches especially with its 48 month cycle. This model came in yellow gold or platinum.

Wishing to launch a craft that the manufacture is best known for, Vacheron Constantin created in 1984 a skeletonised version of the ref 43031, in platinum or yellow gold, which was renamed to ref 43032.

The present example in platinum showcases the brand’s subtle designs with its superb architectural three dimensional movement that has been delicately skeletonized (almost one third of the metal has been removed) and hand engraved.

The movement is based the ultra slim caliber 1120 launched in 1968 and based on the ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre 920.

It is believed that less than 200 skeleton examples were made in platinum. The present example is further accompanied by its original guarantee and box.

ALAIN SILBERSTEIN An exquisite and playful stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, cloisonné enamel dial, CETEHOR certificate, enamel certificate, guarantee and presentation box

Manufacturer Alain Silberstein

Year 1999

Reference No. KM09AS

Case No. 017/100

Model Name Klub Medio “Dragon Cloisonné”

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Manual, cal. ETA 2892A2, 21 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Alain Silberstein crocodile strap

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Alain Silberstein pin buckle

Dimensions 37mm Diameter

Signed Case and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 5,000–10,000

$5,900–11,800

€5,300–10,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Alain Silberstein Certificate of Origin and Guarantee, enamel dial Certificate, CETEHOR 3-star accuracy Certificate, English instruction booklet, Japanese instruction leaflets, multi-colored leather toolbox sleeve, paper document holder, box containing: additional stainless steel Alain Silberstein bracelet, additional stainless steel Alain Silberstein deployant clasp, additional bracelet link, screwdriver (with additional heads inside), bracelet removal tool, “easy-wind” tool; and outer packaging.

Truly exemplifying Silberstein’s vision of blending high horology with Bauhaus design, the present timepiece features an extremely simplified case (after Bauhaus’ motto “forms follows function”) whose only concession to frivolity is the triangular Silberstein crown. This simplicity is contrasted by the elaborate polychrome enamel dial representing a yellow Chinese dragon hovering above a raging turquoise sea underneath a dramatic sky draped with blue and red clouds. This juxtaposition renders the timepiece incredibly powerful aesthetically. Moreover, the dial was made by Michel Vermot, the leading cloisonné enameller of the 1990s, who led the team at Donzé Cadrans.

The movement powering this timepiece is the ETA 2892–A2, the absolute top of the line for the company and considered one of the most accurate and reliable movements ever devised.

The attention to details of Alain Silberstein is apparent when looking at the plethora of accessories and documents the watch comes with: not only the customary watch Certificate, but also a CETEHOR (the French accuracy rating bureau) accuracy rating, a certificate for the enamel dial (signed by enameler Michel Vermot), and a box including a most exemplary array of goods The fact that this watch comes from Japan – as highlighted by the presence of the Japanese instructions on top of the Japan-boutique stamped Guarantee –means that, as it often happens with Japanese collectors, the watch has been preserved in absolutely immaculate condition, even retaining the sticker to the back.

Ref. KMO9AS Klub Medio “Dragon

GÉRALD GENTA A fine, scarce and extremely collectible yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, lapis dial, mother of pearl sub-dials and butterfly buckle with integrated compass

Manufacturer Gérald Genta Year Circa 1990

Reference No. G.3149.7

Case No. 45438

Model Name Gefica

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 889/1, 33 jewels

Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Gerald Genta bracelet, max length 190mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Gerald Genta compass deployant clasp

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.

Estimate

CHF 12,000–24,000

$14,200–28,300

€12,800–25,600

Originally introduced in 1984, the Gérald Genta Gefica allegedly comes from the private request of three safari hunters, accordingly named Geoffroy, Fissore et Canali. The aggregation of the first two letters of each of the hunter’s names spells the name Gefica. Conceived as an ultra-high end sports watch, the present Gérald Genta perpetual calendar features a drop dead gorgeous lapis dial adorned with mother of pearl sub-dials. In 18K yellow gold, both the case and bracelet feature a frosted finish for non reflectivity. Furthermore, the butterfly buckle present on the bracelet curiously showcases a fully functioning compass, most probably an homage to the original purpose intended for this model, hunting.

Finally, inside the timepiece is made alive thanks to the automatic caliber 889/1, quite the peculiarity as most versions were available with a quartz movement. So rare is this combination that it renders the timepiece possibly unique as most versions are in quartz or in bronze, steel or without a bracelet.

Preserved in excellent overall condition, featuring strong hallmarks with a beautiful lapis and mother of pearl dial, the present Gérald Genta Gefica is certainly a must have for the discerning collector of unique and fascinating timepieces.

ULYSSE NARDIN An extremely fine and rare numbered edition platinum hour striking and repeating wristwatch with automaton Jaquemarts and enamel dial

Manufacturer Ulysse Nardin

Year Circa 1990

Reference No. 709–20

Movement No. 22

Case No. 22

Model Name Jacquemart Forgerons

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, 32 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Ulysse Nardin pin buckle

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

In 1983, Rolf Schnyder took over Ulysse Nardin and with the help of watchmaker/philosopher/poet extraordinaire, Ludwig Oechslin turned the brand into one of the most innovative creators of its era. The brand created wristwatches with complications previously only found in pocket watches and clocks, such as the astrolabiums, telleriums or automata.

In 1989 the brand created the very first minute repeating wristwatch with jaquemart. The present timepiece is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the ears! Not content with creating a wonderful minute repeater cased |in an elegant curvaceous case with strong stepped lugs, Ulysse Nardin created a superb dark blue flinqué enamel dial featuring two engraved automatons representing the two bell ringers found in Venice’s San Marco bell tower.

When the repeater lever is activated the arm of the automaton on the left rises and falls (as if he is hitting the bell) to the chimes of the hours, both figures move in synch with the chimes of the quarter hours and the automaton on the right moves with the chimes of the minutes. It is important to note that not only Ulysse Nardin was the very first brand to introduce a jacquemart minute repeating wristwatch but remains one of the very few who has mastered the complex knowledge of automatons.

URWERK An unusual, cutting edge and historically important stainless steel wristwatch with wandering hours display and presentation box

Manufacturer Urwerk

Year 1997

Reference No. UR–102

Case No. 11

Model Name UR–102

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case and movement signed

Estimate

CHF 30,000–60,000

$35,400–70,800

€32,000–64,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Urwerk fitted box.

Literature

Urwerk is featured in Twelve faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elizabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp.186–201.

The late 1990s saw the arrival of independent watchmakers wishing to breakaway from the designs traditionally associated with the epoch, and Urwerk has definitely been one of the founding and torch bearers of the Creative Independent Horology movement. The UR–102, launched in 1997 at the Basel watch fair, is as close as one can get to calling a piece made from Urwerk “vintage”. It was, along with the UR–101, the founding piece for Urwerk, underlining Urwerk’s ambition to bring a completely fresh and out of the box approach to watches and watchmaking and to make derivative artworks that also tell time.

The brand’s signature wandering hour time display is already present but in a rather minimalistic fashion. In a design twist, the odd hours are displayed on an orange background whereas the even hours are displayed on a black background. One might rightly consider the case design, with its round bombé shape and 8 lugs, as having a somewhat sci-fi vibe, this comes from the fact that the case was inspired by the Soviet satellite Sputnik.

Urwerk’s UR–102 has now achieved cult like status with collectors, so much so as in Dec 2022 a unique version sold at Phillips New York for above $400,000. In Spring of 2023 the brand announced two limited editions nicknamed UR–102 Re-Loaded that sold out at lightning speed confirming the desirability of the model. Both incredibly rare and historically relevant, the present UR–102 offers the collector of modern icons the possibility to own one of the earliest watches created by one of the leaders of Creative Independent Horology, a genre that would boost Urwerk to watchmaking heights a few years later.

DANIEL ROTH A wonderful and extremely rare stainless steel double faced tourbillon wristwatch with date, power reserve indicator, box and guarantee, number 12 of a limited edition of 20 pieces

Manufacturer Daniel Roth Year 1999

Reference No. C187

Case No. N° 12

Model Name Tourbillon Regulateur Double Face

Material Stainless Steel

Calibre Manual, 19 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Daniel Roth pin buckle

Dimensions 38mm Length and 35mm Width

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 60,000–120,000

$70,800–142,000

€64,000–128,000

Accessories

Accompanied by fitted Daniel Roth box, guarantee dated November 12 1999, product literature and outer packaging.

Considered to be one of the most remarkable contemporary watchmakers, Daniel Roth trained in his early career with high-end brands like Audemars Piguet and played a crucial role in the revival of Breguet. He designed his double-faced Tourbillon, reference C187 in 1988, and released it the following year as a way to announce his independence and the creation of his eponymous brand.

Upon launch of his brand, Roth immediately established his personal design language, the most obvious being the unusual ellipsocurvex shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with guilloché patterns, all elements you can find in the present Tourbillion. The Daniel Roth reference C187 is probably one of the watchmaker’s better known creations. On the front side, taking centre stage is the large tourbillon escapement with an original triple arm seconds hand featuring three hands of different lengths that indicate the seconds on three different seconds registers each calibrated for 20 seconds. The caseback features a retrograde power reserve and date indications.

The present example is from the only series made in a limited edition, furthermore in stainless steel for 20 pieces of which the present example is number 12. The dial features a remarkably executed vertical guillochage. The hour-minute disc features classic Roman numerals and is in satin-brushed silver, as well as the lateral frames that indicate the number of the watch, the brand name and the seconds. The movement that powers this remarkable timepiece is based off the Lemania 387 ébauche, which has been highly modified and finished at the highest of levels. The present watch is preserved in excellent overall condition and offered with its full set of accessories.

DANIEL ROTH

Ref. C187 Tourbillon Regulateur Double Face

VIANNEY HALTER A cutting edge and groundbreaking pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch

It is mind boggling to think that a design as avant garde as the Antiqua dates back to 1998 – a period where the epitome of classic elegance was a round 33–35mm wristwatch. Without the Independent Creative Horology movement, watchmaking would certainly be very different – or maybe even non existent. Halter started his career in Paris in the 1980s restoring vintage clocks and watches, he then moved to Switzerland, where he met contemporaries Francois-Paul Journe and Denis Flageollet. Together, the three future masters created a movement development manufacture named Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA). Later, in 1994, Halter would establish his own atelier, Manufacture Janvier SA, to pursue his own interests and take on work for larger companies.

It was during this work at Manufacture Janvier SA that a financial crisis halted much of Halter’s work. With an unforeseen amount of time to devote to his own pursuits, Halter decided to turn his talents to the creation of his own masterpiece. He had been approached by American graphic designer Jeff Barnes with a groundbreaking and unprecedented design for a wristwatch that would one day become the Antiqua.

Halter has an immense love of science fiction and space travel, and Jules Verne or H.G. Wells, and most importantly Star Trek have had – and still do – have an influence on his life. Visually, many of Halter’s watches channel elements of retrofuturism and steampunk, which were first identified as genres in the 1980s but draw their inspiration from the Victorian era and the American Wild West. Halter has his own interpretation of his style, naming it “Futur Antérieur” or “Past Future”, a tongue-in-cheek nod at the French grammatical tense (which correlates to the English future perfect tense) used to discuss a future action that will happen by a certain moment in the future.

VIANNEY HALTER A cutting edge and groundbreaking pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch

Manufacturer Vianney Halter Year 1999

Movement No. 7R

Case No.

99.7r.131

Model Name Antiqua

Material 18K pink gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. VH198, 43 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold VH pin buckle

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 80,000–160,000

$94,400–189,000

€85,400–171,000

Accessories

Accompanied by a copy of Vianney Halter Certificate confirming production of the watch in 1999.

Literature

Vianney Halter is featured in Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking by Michael Clerizo pp. 192–211, in Twelve faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elizabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp.106–121 and in Watchmakers, The Masters of art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 178–189.

The perpetual calendar Antiqua was presented at BaselWorld in 1998, it first inspired confusion before understanding dawned, and demand soon outpaced the production capacity. Each Antiqua required around 900 hours to finish, and the crown alone is comprised of 26 individual components including two rows of 12 individual, white gold rivets. Each dial is hand-crafted in either platinum or white gold, with the numerals engraved and then filled in with ink – all done in-house in Vianney Halter’s atelier. The riveted porthole apertures for the elements of the perpetual calendar display that comprise the Antiqua are purportedly inspired by Captain Nemo’s submarine from Verne’s novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.

Out of the 110 Antiqua models made by Halter, 48 were in pink gold. The present example in pink gold bears number 7 and is one of the earlier pieces made in 1999.

F.P. JOURNE A career defining, and history changing platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoire and original technical drawings

The Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoire d’Egalité.

No other model has defined the life of a watchmaker in such a manner. It is the model that launched François-Paul Journe’s career as a watch brand with its launch in 1999 as a 20 piece souscription set, but before becoming one of the most influential – and award winning –watchmakers of his era and paving the way to the intense appeal of independent horology, Journe was one of the most gifted watchmakers of his generation making one off creations for a savvy clientele.

The present Tourbillon engraved 15/93 on the dial is the foundation of what Journe was to become, it is the second wristwatch Journe ever made and the first he ever sold. In 1991 Journe – who up until then had only created complex pocket watches and clocks – decided to create a tourbillon wristwatch but improving on Abraham Louis Breguet’s invention with the addition of a remontoire system – a constant force device used to provide an equal amount of energy regardless of the winding level of the mainspring, resulting in greater accuracy. It was the first time that these innovations had been combined and integrated into a wristwatch.

The first prototype was worn by Journe and remains within his private collection. He made 2 other identical examples, both in 1993 – the present model and another engraved in 16/93. Journe’s original tourbillon wristwatch set the blueprint of what his future watches would look like: 38mm case, gold dials and offset indications. The present example is not only immediately identifiable as a Journe but it features some very unique elements such as movement made in gold (something that Journe featured in his production pieces starting 2004), the dial has a more raw steampunk vibe to it due to the visible elements such as the cone-and-feeler power-reserve indication at 11 o’clock, Breguet hands, strap held with screws, as well as a solid caseback.

All inscriptions on the dial have been meticulously hand engraved and inked. However, the dial is not the only hand made element but the whole watch was handmade by Journe himself adding to the exclusivity of the watch. In fact only 3 wristwatches were ever fully handmade by Journe himself raising the collectability and desirability of the present timepiece to stratospheric levels.

Tourbillon à Remontoire d’Egalité “No 15/93, The First Wristwatch Ever Sold by

F.P. JOURNE

A career defining, and history changing platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoire and original technical drawings

Manufacturer F.P. Journe

Year 1993

Case No. 15/93

Model Name Tourbillon à Remontoire d’Egalité

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual wind in 18k yellow gold

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Estimate

In Excess of CHF 2,000,000

$2,360,000

€2,130,000

Accessories

Accompanied by original technical drawings, metal sheet from which the tourbillon cage is cut out, articles, original invoice.

Literature

The present watch is on the cover of “Invenit et Fecit” by Jean-Pierre Grosz, a book dedicated to Journe’s oeuvre.

The dial is engraved 15/93 meaning it is the 15th timepiece ever made by Journe and made in 1993. In Journe’s own words “This first tourbillon wtistwatch paid hommage to 5 watchmakers: Breguet as inventor of the tourbillon, Guinand for the shape of the tourbillon cage, Bürgi for the remontoire system, Berthoud for the overall aesthetics and myself as it represents decades of experience and learning ”.

The importance of this watch is further highlighted by the fact that it is proudly featured on the cover of the book: Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz, dedicated to Journe’s oeuvre. This incredibly historic piece has been with the same family since 1993 who have proudly kept all the technical drawings, articles, original invoice and even the sheet of metal from which the tourbillon cage was cut out!

Legend has it that in 1994 when at a restaurant the receptionist noticed the tourbillon Journe was wearing and exclaimed “ what a beautiful watch ” and this pushed Journe to launch a series production 5 years later in 1999 and the rest, as they say, is history. A history that changed watchmaking as we know it.

The present Tourbillon 15/93 is not only remarkable for its aesthetic beauty but its influence on 21st century mechanical watch culture is undeniable. It is without any doubt, one of the most important and impressive timepieces made by any contemporary independent watchmaker or brand, and consequently one of the most important watches in the world. The present Tourbillon 15/93 was serviced in August 2024 by François-Paul Journe himself.

Tourbillon à Remontoire d’Egalité “No 15/93, The First Wristwatch Ever Sold by

F.P. JOURNE A career defining, and history changing platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoire and original technical drawings

F.P. JOURNE CHRONOLOGY 1976–1993

1976: Graduates from the Ecole d’horlogerie de Paris

1979: Conceives, at the age of 22, the mechanism of a planetarium for Asprey in London, commissioned by the ateliers P-G Brun in Paris.

1983: After 5 years of work Journe completes his first watch: a tourbillon pocket-watch with spring detent escapement.

1983: Begins his research into the principle of the remontoir, thereby paying homage to the most brilliant 18th century horological interpretations and creates a tourbillon pocket-watch with remontoir.

1984: First Resonance pocket watch.

1985: Sets up his first workshop on the rue de Verneuil in Paris.

1986: Creates an automatic chronometer pocket-watch, with fusée and chain housing a five-second remontoire and a detent escapement. The rock crystal dial reveals the retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism with the equation of time. This creation is inspired by the famous watch ordered from Abraham-Louis Breguet for Queen Marie-Antoinette.

1987: Creates a unique planetary pocket watch.

1988: Creates the Sympathique clock for Asprey London based on the original examples from Abraham-Louis Breguet.

1991: First wristwatch: a tourbillon incorporating a remontoire within a wristwatch for the very first time, the movement as well as the gear-trains are entirely in 18K gold (this is part of Journe’s personal collection).

1993: The present watch, the second wristwatch Journe ever made and the very first that he sold.

Tourbillon à Remontoire d’Egalité “No 15/93, The First Wristwatch Ever Sold by

EBEL A superb yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with blue mother of pearl dial, guarantee and box

Manufacturer Ebel Year 1993

Reference No. 8134901

Case No. 64’106’313

Model Name Sports Classic Chronograph

Material 18k yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal 400, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k yellow gold Ebel deployant clasp

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 5,000–10,000

$5,900–11,900

€5,300–10,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Ebel fitted box, guarantee card and product literature.

The Ebel Sports Classic, later dubbed 1911, is undoubtedly one of the symbols of the 80s, no other watch represented the insouciance and maximalism of that period as this watch. Created in 1911, Ebel rapidly made a name for itself supplying private label watches to other brands. Ebel’s breakthrough came in the late 1970s when one of the founder’s grand children Pierre-Alain Blum took the helm making Ebel one of the most iconic brands of the 1980s–1990s.

The present superbly lavish example features an ultra rare blue mother of pear dial with diamond indexes and houses the last iteration of the El Primero, cal 400.

Manufacturer Blancpain Year Circa 1993

Case No. No. 3

Model Name World time Prototype

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 953, 19 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Blancpain pin buckle

Dimensions 34mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 12,000–24,000

$14,200–28,300

€12,800–25,600

Have you ever seen a Blancpain Worldtime made during the glorious era of the brand under Biver/Piguet ownership? Neither had we… until very recently. The philosophy of the two masterminds behind the Blancpain revival of the 1980s–1990s was to create watches representing the most complex and relevant complications found in watchmaking, that they called the 6 Masterpieces: the ultra slim (not a complication per se but the difficulty of execution made it a valid candidate), the full calendar moonphase, the perpetual calendar, the chronograph, the minute repeater and the tourbillon. By the end of the 1980s the brand had released all these complications and had even started creating watches mixing these complications together.

However, a worldtime wristwatatch was never part of the 6 Masterpiece philosophy and never found in the Blancpain catalogues of the time. Jean-Claude Biver confirmed that the present example was a one off prototype that never made it into serial production. The worldtime mechanism was developed by Svend Andersen, who had opened his workshops in the early 1980s and had started creating worldtime wristwatches inspired by the famous models made by Cottier in the 1940s with all functions intelligently controlled via the crown. Another great name is associated to this piece as the case was made by JP Hagmann (whose initials are engraved inside the caseback), who is considered one of the (if not the) best case maker in the entire history of horology.

Even though the caseback is stamped with number 3 the present Blancpain Worldtime, making its auction debut close to 30 years after production, is the only one known.

CARTIER A very fine and attractive white gold wristwatch with lapis lazuli dial and removable grid

Manufacturer Cartier Year Circa 1990

Reference No. 2332

Case No. MG246941

Model Name Pasha

Material 18K white gold, diamonds and lapis lauzli

Calibre Automatic, jeweled

Bracelet/Strap Alligator

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 8,000–12,000

$9,400–14,200

€8,500–12,800

Accessories

Accompanied by Cartier presentation box.

Although seen as a decade of easy money and ostentation, the 1980s represented so much more than that. It was a decade that saw the birth of generation changing musical genres such metal or rap, films like Raging Bull, ET or Back to the Future shaped the industry for decades and Basquiat and Haring would make New York the centre of the art world.

It was in this bustling creative atmosphere that famed designer Gerald Genta was commissioned by Cartier to create a watch that would take the brand’s history and adapt it to the zeitgeist of the period. The Pasha displayed distinct design codes: a round bezel, defined lugs, and a crown fitted with a cabochon secured by a chain connected to the case.

The present white gold Pasha is a proud child of its era, with a winning combination of a stunning lapis lazuli dial with a diamond set removable grid protecting the crystal and a diamond cabochon on the crown. Its case metal is very rare for the production era, as most Pashas were manufactured in yellow gold.

Ref. 2332 Pasha “Lapis Lazuli”

PATEK PHILIPPE A fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, power reserve and bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2002

Reference No. 3710/1A–001

Movement No. 3’149’939

Case No. 4’148’117

Model Name Nautilus “Comet”

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 330 SC, 30 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 190mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions 43mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate

CHF 60,000–120,000

$70,800–142,000

€64,000–128,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe fitted box, Certificate of Origin, Tiffany & Co. evaluation papers, Tiffany & Co. outer pouch, outer packaging and shopping bag.

Reference 3710 is a historically important model within the Nautilus family. Launched in 1998 and in production until 2004/2005, it was the first Nautilus model to feature a complication (other than a date indication) and even though it retained the smooth dial with Roman numerals as found in the reference 3800 it marked the return of the “Jumbo” sized reference 3700.

The Nautilus reference 3710 features a very unusual power reserve / state of wind indicator nicknamed by collectors “comet tail”. The said “tail” being placed on a rotating disc and once the movement is fully wound the disc would continue rotating, indicating that the winding mechanism was disconnected from the main barrel.

The present example stands out not only for its excellent state of preservation and offered with its full set of accessories but it features the highly coveted Tiffany & Co. signature on the dial right below the brand name. Fresh to the market the present reference 3710 is only the fourth example known to bear the Tiffany & Co. signature.

Ref. 3710/1A–001 Nautilus “Comet – Tiffany & Co.”

ANDERSEN GENEVE A stupendous unique white gold minute repeating retrograde perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet, J.P. Hagmann case and documentation

Manufacturer Andersen Geneve Year 1988

Reference No. 360

Movement No. 97061

Material 18k white gold

Calibre Manual wind

Bracelet/Strap 18k white gold (non Andersen) measuring 210mm max length

Clasp/Buckle 18k white gold concealed buckle

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case and dial signed Andersen Genève, movement signed Tiffany & Co.

Estimate

CHF 80,000–160,000

$94,400–189,000

€85,400–171,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Andersen Genève Certificate confirming the watch was made circa 1988 and that it is a unique piece, fitted box, extra strap with Andersen Geneve buckle, order invoice, technical drawings, numerous documents on Andersen and his oeuvre

Svend Andersen’s oeuvre is composed of world premieres, mind bending complications and delicate handwork. His influence on horology in the 1980s–1990s is wide and deep considering that even though he had set up his workshops making watches under his name he was still creating complicated pieces for other brands.

The “Bottle Clock” was exhibited in 1969 at the “Montres et Bijoux” fair and the same year Andersen joined Patek Philippe at the Grand Complications workshop.

ANDERSEN GENEVE A stupendous unique white gold minute repeating retrograde perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet, J.P. Hagmann case and documentation

The present minute repeater with retrograde perpetual calendar was made in 1988 as a special order for Mr. Yoshi Isogai, the President of Shellman Co in Japan. Based on a vintage Tiffany & Co movement (that is most probably made by Patek Philippe like the majority of repeating movements by Tiffany & Co) Andersen designed the perpetual calendar module with retrograde date (an extremely rare complication at the time). The leap year indicator being discreetly and elegantly placed in an opening inside the month window.

The dial features an elegant barley grain guilloché in the centre and a sunray pattern guilloché for the calendar and moonphase displays. For the case, Andersen turned to the man considered to be the greatest casemaker alive: J.P Hagmann, whose stamp appears on the case at 6 o’clock. Andersen had made a handful of wristwatches featuring a minute repeater with retrograde perpetual calendar but each with a different dial and case design making the present example truly unique. The collectability of the watch is further increased by the incredible number of accessories and documents accompanying it.

IWC An unusual, scarce and perfectly preserved military green PVD-coated aluminum automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, hinged case concealing a compass and an emergency beacon mirror and bracelet

Manufacturer IWC Year Circa 1981

Reference No. 3510

Movement No. 2’340’550

Case No. 2’266’576

Model Name Compass Watch

Material PVD-coated aluminium

Calibre Automatic, cal. 375, 22 jewels

Bracelet/Strap PVD-coated aluminum IWC bracelet, max length 195mm

Clasp/Buckle PVD-coated aluminum IWC deployant clasp

Dimensions 39mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed IWC, dial further signed Porsche Design

Estimate

CHF 3,000–5,000

$3,500–5,900

€3,200–5,300

The worlds of watch collecting and automotive consist both of engineering and design and more often than not we see collaborations between car and watch brands.The present piece takes one of the most hallowed brands in automotive – Porsche – and transforms it into a watch brand in its own – rather than a simple collaboration of Porsche with a different brand. The man behind this brand is Ferdinand Alexander Porsche (1935–2012), the grandson of the founder of Porsche, Ferdinand Porsche. While his father and grandfather were eminently engineers dedicated to the inner workings of their cars, Alexander was more of a designer, and unarguably an extremely talented one: it is his pencil that gifted the world one of the greatest and most iconic car designs ever devised, the Porsche 911.

Given such a background it is somewhat unsurprising that eventually he decided to create a watch brand. The company chosen as partner for this endeavour was IWC. Their collaboration started in 1978 and lasted for about 20 years, characterized by the creation of some very unusual and practical tool watches, such as the present one. Featuring a very readable luminous dial with red center seconds, the case of the piece is hinged at 12; by pushing the two buttons on the 6 o’clock end link, the case opens up and reveals not only a compass, but also an emergency beacon mirror which acts as screw-on back for the movement. One of the first PVD-coated timepieces to hit the market, the model is most often seen in black. The present military green configuration is an extremely uncommon variation. The watch is offered in absolutely impeccable, practically NOS condition making it an irresistible proposal for the farsighted collectors. Research with the manufacture states that the wristwatch with serial number 2’266’576 was sold September 1981 to Porsche Salzburg.

ROGER DUBUIS A fine and attractive limited edition white gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial and presentation box

Manufacturer Roger Dubuis Year Circa 1997

Movement No. 447

Model Name H40

Material 18K white gold

Calibre Manual, cal. 56, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Roger Dubuis deployant clasp

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Blank Observatory Certificate, key and presentation box.

Based on the Lemania 2310, the present Roger Dubuis chronograph is an early example made before the brand’s sale to Richemont. First and foremost a watchmaker, Roger Dubuis had tirelessly worked for brands such as Patek Philippe and Longines, before setting up his own workshop.

This H37 is a sight to behold and displays incredible details that would impress even the most fastidious watch purist. Firstly, the movement is based upon the Lemania 2310 ébauche – just like the famed Patek Philippe reference 5070. The movement proudly displays the Geneva seal – an exceptional feat for a small, at the time independent watchmaker. Finally, the dial itself is beautiful. Displaying feuille hands and a laquer black dial, it is reminiscent of the vintage chronographs in the past, while displaying its own aesthetic flourishes.

The watch itself offers even more than just technical prowess and good looks – it represents a period of time, when now-household names such as F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour and Roger Smith were experimenting, producing their very first prototypes, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking and re-defining the meaning of watchmaking. Industry veterans will look back at this golden period of horology as the cradle of Independent Watchmaking, with doses of both pride and nostalgia.

URBAN JÜRGENSEN An elegant and rare pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases and power reserve, with certificate of origin

Manufacturer Urban Jürgensen Year 2002

Case No. 045

Model Name Reference 3

Material 18k pink gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. FP 71, 45 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k pink gold Urban Jürgensen deployant clasp

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 30,000–60,000

$35,400–70,800

€32,000–64,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Urban Jürgensen Certificate of Origin dated June 20, 2002.

The wristwatches produced during the rebirth of Urban Jürgensen as a brand in the 1980s and 1990s epitomize the marriage of old and new in a way that breathed fresh life into contemporary watchmaking. New owner Peter Baumberger, with his partner, the much-heralded English watchmaker Derek Pratt and with the help of the young Kari Voutilainen, set out to rebuild the brand still committed to the original tenets of technical excellence, traditional aesthetics, and handmade master craftsmanship.

Subtle yet important details add up to make the present timepiece a must have for the savvy collector. The hand guilloché dial requires hundreds of different operations, the satin outer track with Roman numerals and simple minute divisions frames the clean guilloché center. The indication for day, date, month and moon phases are symmetrically placed: the windows for day and month horizontally; the subdials for moon phases and date vertically. The tear drop lugs have been individually forged, heat treated, hand polished and individually soldered onto the watch case in a way which makes the soldering line invisible to the naked eye. The moon disc is also made by hand, it is crafted from mirror polished blued steel, in which the stars are manually inlaid in gold and two solid 18 karat gold, mirror polished moons are fitted. The present Reference 3 also features a power reserve indicator stylishly placed beneath the moonphase display.

An ultra-slim, Fredric Piguet-based automatic perpetual calendar movement beats within and is beautifully finished with a 21 karat gold winding rotor. The beauty of this Reference 3 is only outshone by its utter rarity as it is cased in pink gold, a metal this reference is known for in only a handful of pieces.

AUDEMARS PIGUET A rare and most intriguing platinum wristwatch with rotating discs display, engraved dial, certificate and presentation box

Manufacturer Audemars Piguet Year Circa 1995

Reference No. 25720/002

Movement No. 376’689

Case No. D8315

Model Name Star Wheel

Material Platinum

Calibre Automatic, cal. 2124, 33 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Audemars Piguet pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 15,000–25,000

$17,700–29,500

€16,000–26,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted box, undated and unstamped Certificate of Origin, service card from 2007, Care booklet and outer packaging.

Even though Audemars Piguet is immediately associated with the Royal Oak, another model became the brand’s signature in the 1990s: the Star Wheel. It was in 1991 that Audemars Piguet rediscovered and reintroduced this unusual mechanism that was originally elaborated in the 18th century upon the request of Pope Alexander VII. The Star Wheel was first introduced in a round stepped case with different variations of case metal and dial finishes, followed by the cushion shaped John Shaffer. The wandering hour Star Wheel method of telling time was discontinued around 1996 but brought back as a limited edition in the Millenary case in 2000 in celebration of the brands 125th anniversary followed by a rebirth in the Code 11.59 case in 2023.

Presented in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its certificate and original presentation box, this Star Wheel will delight the collector who is looking for a rare and elegant timepiece that will keep on surprising every time one lays eyes on it.

DANIEL ROTH A unique and important white gold ultra slim minute repeating wristwatch

Manufacturer Daniel Roth

Year Circa 1997

Movement No. N°1

Case No. Number 1

Material 18k white gold

Calibre Manual, Gerald Genta base cal. 13000, jeweled

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k white gold Daniel Roth pin buckle

Dimensions 39mm Length and 36mm Width

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 70,000–140,000

$82,600–165,000

€74,700–149,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Daniel Roth Guarantee, presentation box and outer packaging.

Born to be a horological pioneer, Daniel Roth is considered today one of the most brilliant watchmakers of his generation. Originally starting at Audemars Piguet, he later went on to work for Breguet where he restored the brand’s former horological importance and presence in the midst of the quartz crisis. After fourteen years of self development and studies within Breguet, in 1987 Daniel Roth started his eponymous brand directly inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s pocket watches.

Immediately imposing and carving his personal design language, most notably the ellipsocurvex case shape, hands with pointed tips and guilloché dials, he was one the earliest master watchmakers who decided to branch out and go “independent” with his vision. His creations covered the complications traditionally found in wristwatches such as tourbillons, chronographs or perpetual calendars, pieces made in different iterations. However, one complication – the minute repeater –remained extremely elusive. In 1995 Roth presented three unique minute repeaters in white, yellow and pink gold using a movement based on the ultra slim Lemania 369 caliber.

A few years later a new set of three unique minute repeaters were presented this time featuring a subseconds dial at 6 o’clock (using the Gerald Genta base caliber 13000) once again in yellow, pink and white gold – the present timepiece. The watch features all elements one is expected to find in Roth’s timepieces: ellipsocurvex case shape, hands with pointed tips and a dial with clou de Paris guillochage (like in his early pieces). Once the trigger on the left side of the case is pushed the watch chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes at a leisurely yet crisp pace.

DANIEL ROTH

“Minute Repeater No. 1”

PATEK PHILIPPE A rare, early and well-preserved white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, 24-hours indication and certificate

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1989

Reference No. 3970EG

Movement No. 875’376

Case No. 2’856’518

Material 18K white gold

Calibre Manual, cal. CH 27–70 Q, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate

CHF 80,000–160,000

$94,400–189,000

€85,400–171,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by “Cortina Watch Centre”, Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch with silvery opaline white dial and white gold indexes in 1989 and its subsequent sale on July 14, 1989, Leather wallet and product literature.

Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 was launched in 1986 as a replacement for the iconic reference 2499. While maintaining the signature aesthetics found in refs 1518 and 2499 this model housed a Lemania based ebauche and introduced a leap year and 24 hour indication for the first time. The reference was produced in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum across a total of four series with production spanning over 19 years.

First series (1986–1988) – Features a snap back case, feuille hands and rectangular indexes. Only produced in yellow gold with an estimated 100 examples. Second series (1987–1990) – Features a solid screw back case, feuille hands and baton indexes. Produced in all four case materials with an estimated 450 examples produced across all metals. (The present example). Third series (1989–1995) – Features a solid screw back case with an extra sapphire caseback, baton hands and lapidated indexes. Estimated 1,350 examples produced across all metals. Fourth series (1994–2004) – Same configuration as the third series however there is a change in serial number ranges in the movement and case and from 1997 onwards it features deployant clasp. Estimated 2,000 examples produced across all four metals.

The present example is part of the very early 2nd series from 1989. It furthermore impresses with the superb condition of both dial and case. Most notably, the hallmarks to the sides of the lugs are clear and crisp, indicating little to no polishing of the piece. Even the hallmarks on the outside of the caseback are crisp and visible. According to research, white gold is the rarest of the second series with two examples having appeared on the market to the best of our knowledge.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

An early, highly rare and attractive white gold tourbillon wristwatch with fusée chain mechanism and power reserve indication number, 102 of a 150 piece limited edition

On October 24th 1994 at Dresden Castle, Walter Lange, Günter Blümlein and Hartmut Knothe debuted their first collection comprised no less than four watches, and four new calibres: the Lange 1, the Arkade, the Saxonia, and the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite. While the Lange 1 was arguably the most distinctive timepiece by A. Lange & Söhne due to its disruptive design, the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite named after one of Germany’s highest orders of merit, is unquestionably the star of the show and dominates the domain of horological complications.

Taking the tourbillon to new heights, the Pour le Mérite was the first wristwatch to feature a fusée-and-chain transmission, a constant force system used to equalize the mainspring’s power and to optimize the watch’s accuracy rate. The precision of the movement, level of detail to the finishing, and the Teutonic design principles were well-received by collectors. The movement itself has spawned many an effusive tribute; it is the work of renowned movement specialists Renaud and Papi, overseen by visionary Günther Blümlein, and even involved the know-how of two young Dutch brothers who have become collector favorites: the Grönefelds. Powered by the L902.0 caliber, the movement offers a view that is simply jaw dropping. Its architecture with openings showcasing the 636 parts fusée-and-chain transmission, the signature engraved balance cock and the refined and small perlages that can only be found on early models is all reasons why collectors fell in love with this historically significant model. The Tourbillon Pour Le Merite was made in 200 examples of which only 20 were made in white gold – 19 with blue dial (like the present example) and a unique piece with black dial.

Ref. 701.007 Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Limited

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

An early, highly rare and attractive white gold tourbillon wristwatch with fusée chain mechanism and power reserve indication number, 102 of a 150 piece limited edition

Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne Year 1998

Reference No. 701.007

Movement No. 434

Case No. 110’352, caseback further engraved with limited edition number 102/150

Model Name Tourbillon Pour le Mérite

Material 18k white gold

Calibre Manual, L902.0, 29 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18k white gold Lange pin buckle

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 150,000–300,000

$177,000–354,000

€160,000–320,000

Accessories

Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee stamped Oeding-Erdel and dated 14th December 1998, hang tag, fitted presentation box, outer packaging and copy of the “Pour Le Mérite” book deluxe edition by Peter Chong, specially numbered 102/150 (corresponding to the number of the watch), further accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Proof Of Origin dated September 2024.

The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite was available as follows:

18K yellow gold – 106 examples

(Ref. 701.001/ Ref. 751.001/Ref. 701.301)

18K white gold – 20 examples (Ref. 701.007)

18K pink gold – 24 examples (701.011)

Platinum – 50 examples (Ref. 701.005)

Steel – 1 example

To the best of our research the present example in white gold with blue dial is only the second to ever grace an international auction room.

Ref. 701.007 Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Limited

ROLEX A highly important and most probably unique white gold chronograph wristwatch with rainbow hued multi-gem sapphire bezel

There are a few timepieces so elusive that only a handful of the horological cognoscenti have seen them in the flesh, its very existence shrouded in mystery. Having presided in one of the world’s most prestigious and exclusive collections for many years, this singular white gold reference 16599SAAEC, also known as the “Rainbow Zenith Daytona”, appears at public auction for the very first time.

For many years it was commonly accepted that Rolex produced the automatic winding Cosmographs with a variety of bezels –sometimes with diamonds, or even with different kinds of sapphires and even most exclusively, with emeralds. Yet, the market had only seen those set with one type of baguette stone. In fact, it was not until 2012 that Rolex had officially launched the “Rainbow” in yellow gold (116598RBOW), and white gold (116599RBOW), and later in 2018 that they launched the version in pink gold (116595RBOW).

Yet for one lucky customer already in approximately 1994, Rolex created a one-off unique masterpiece – a Cosmograph Daytona, reference 16599, with degradé hued sapphires, meant to mimic the colours of the rainbow. At the time of production, it was very likely the rarest, most luxurious and special Cosmograph available on the market. Indeed, the 5 letter abbreviation at the end of the reference 16599SAAEC refers to its namesake, with “SAAEC” referring to Sapphire Arc-en-Ciel – meaning “Rainbow” in French. Meaning, the original “Rainbow” with Zenith movement was launched close to 20 years before the official launch of the model in the Rolex catalog. And while Rolex had produced Day-Date Rainbows during this period, the present watch was the world’s very first “Rainbow” sports watch.

Ref. 16599SAAEC Cosmograph Daytona “The Ultimate

ROLEX A highly important and most probably unique white gold chronograph wristwatch with rainbow hued multi-gem sapphire bezel

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 1994

Reference No. 16599SAAEC

Movement No. 174’853

Case No. W082941

Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”

Material 18K white gold and multi gem-set sapphires

Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

In excess of CHF 3,000,000

$3,540,000

€3,200,000

It is most notably adorned with a beautiful and impressive bezel, which is set with gemstones that graduate in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The hand-matched beautiful sapphires display tones ranging from a vibrant and intense deep red, and slowly morph to mauve, orange, chartreuse, green, blue and finally deep purple. The bezel’s beauty stems from the well-matched, pure and bright colored gemstones. The colors blend together seamlessly, attesting to Rolex’s technical superiority and eye for color. The dial also displays gemstones in a rainbow hue, referencing the colors of the bezel.

While today the “Rainbow” Daytona is well-known and considered one of the most exclusive timepieces in the Rolex catalog – and indeed it is considered the elite of all Rolex Sports Watches – this present watch would have been a completely maverick concept, and nothing like the market had ever seen at the time. Interestingly, the rainbow color scheme is in the opposite direction of all later produced Rolex Daytona Rainbows (i.e. the order of the colors is backwards). So special is this model that the Rainbow concept spawned many similar examples among other watch brands –notably Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Hublot today all have their own version of the Rainbow in their catalogs.

Ref. 16599SAAEC Cosmograph Daytona “The Ultimate

ROLEX A highly important and most probably unique white gold chronograph wristwatch with rainbow hued multi-gem sapphire bezel

The present Daytona is most notably fitted with the caliber 4030 –the very first self-winding chronograph movement originally fitted in the reference 16520. Technically impressive, it was powered by the automatic Zenith El Primero calibre, which was substantially modified by Rolex. The story of the Automatic Cosmograph Daytona actually begins with the caliber 4030. Rolex had chosen Zenith as the supplier of their very first automatic movements. However, not just content with the existing ebauche, Rolex made approximately 200 modifications to the Zenith caliber 400 before being satisfied with the product.

Components that underwent changes included the balance bridge with the addition of Rolex’s Micro-Stella adjustment system, as well as the shock-proofing system. The power reserve was furthermore increased from 42 to 52 hours. In addition, Rolex minimised the operating frequency of the original Zenith caliber from 36,000 beats per hour to 28,800. Most importantly, the movements underwent chronometer testing. The chronometer number was engraved on the movement, and the dials also bore the script “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”.

The importance and rarity of the present watch cannot be overstated. A dream come true for many, it presents a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for collectors to acquire the one and only Rainbow Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

Ref. 16599SAAEC Cosmograph Daytona “The Ultimate

PATEK PHILIPPE

An exceptionally well-preserved and elegant white gold chronograph wristwatch with certificate of origin and presentation box

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2005

Reference No. 5070G–001

Movement No. 3’362’624

Case No. 4’310’181

Material 18K white gold

Calibre Manual, cal. 27–70, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions 42mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and deployant clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 40,000–80,000

$47,200–94,400

€42,700–85,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated December, 2005, instruction manual, leather folio, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

First introduced at Baselworld in 1998, the Patek Philippe reference 5070 sent shockwaves within the more traditional collecting community thanks to its revolutionary design and modern case size. A milestone for the Maison, this modern chronograph-only wristwatch is the direct successor of reference 1463, a highly coveted vintage model from Patek Philippe.

Featuring a water-resistant case with a screw-down see-through case back, the reference 5070 measures a steady 42mm in diameter with an extremely contemporary and attractive stepped bezel. It holds a unique spot in Patek Philippe’s history as one of the largest watches the brand had produced and the last chronograph to use a modified Lemania 2310-based ébauche. The model inherited the design of the unique reference 2512 from 1950, an oversized split-seconds chronograph that now resides in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The present example, extremely well-preserved, was originally acquired in December 2005 in the vibrant city of Las Vegas. One can imagine that after a successful night at the casino, the fortunate winner decided to celebrate their victory by gifting themselves a stunning Patek Philippe for Christmas. Adorning the prestigious Poinçon de Genève on its movement, awarded to watches made in Geneva and finished to the highest degree, the watch is further accompanied by its set of accessories.

IWC A surprising and very collectible white ceramic and yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and 4-digit year indication

Manufacturer IWC

Year Circa 1990

Reference No. 3755

Case No. 2’389’359

Model Name Da Vinci

Material 18K yellow gold and white ceramic

Calibre Automatic, cal. 79261, 39 jewels

Bracelet/Strap White leather IWC strap

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold IWC pin buckle

Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 8,000–16,000

$9,400–18,900

€8,500–17,100

Accessories

Accompanied by sale tag.

The perpetual calendar wristwatch is one of the most complex yet elegant and practical complications that a timepiece can bear. Its downside is, historically, the complexity of its setting, often involving multiple pushers sunken in the case band. That is why IWC watchmaker Kurt Klaus decided that an easier way of setting it was necessary, and devised a mechanism thanks to which all adjustments are made via the crown. Furthermore the removal of the pushers freed up some room in the movement, which was used to add the chronograph complication – even with a remarkably long 12-hour maximum recordable length of time. The automatic winding feature was the last unbelievable – for the time – perk of this calibre. When IWC released this plethora of groundbreaking innovations the market was swept away – so much so that it is estimated that during those years IWC sold more perpetual calendars than the rest of the industry combined.

Originally launched with ref. 3570, this incredible movement was housed in a superbly imaginative hinged lugs case designed by Hano Burtscher. Its architecture was inspired from Leonardo Da Vinci’s recurring circles, and the model was consequently named the Da Vinci. The present example of Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar however pushes the boundaries of collectability much, much further as we are talking of ref. 3755. One of the earliest examples of a ceramic case watch, the model was offered in either white or black ceramic with gold back, lugs, pushers and crown. A challenge even nowadays, at the time creating a ceramic case was a daunting endeavour commanding an extremely high percentage of defective cases. Furthermore, the practicality of the watch coupled with the low resistance to shocks of ceramic implies that many of these pieces might have been damaged over time. To find an example in condition as pristine as this one is arguably a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Ref. 3755 Da Vinci “White Ceramic”

CHOPARD An extremely elegant and fine white gold wristwatch with blue dial and small seconds and certificate of origin, number 558 of a limited edition of 1860 pieces

Manufacturer Chopard Year 2001

Reference No. 16/1860/2

Movement No. 1’001’978

Case No. 949751; caseback further numbered 558/1860

Model Name L.U.C. 1860

Material 18K white gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1.96, 32 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Chopard pin buckle

Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 8,000–16,000

$9,400–18,900

€8,500–17,100

Accessories

Accompanied by Chopard Certificate of Origin stamped Langfords, Brisbane, COSC certification, Geneva Seal papers and additional caseback.

Better known for its jewelry and sporty Mille Miglia watches, Chopard under the aegis of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, its co-president took the watch world by storm in 1996 by creating its first inhouse movement caliber 1.96 (at a time where very few brands were producing manufacture calibers). A micro rotor chronometer grade movement that took 5 years to develop, it was beautifully finished and featured the Geneva Seal opening the door for Chopard to die hard horological enthusiasts.

The caliber was first introduced in the L.U.C 16/1860, the first watch in a new collection named after founder Louis-Ulysses Chopard. In fact many considered the caliber 1.96 as one of the best automatic calibers of the time, even being elected timepiece of the year on TimeZone (the world’s very first and biggest watch discussion forum in the 90s).

Chopard produced the 1860 with caliber 1.96 from 1997 through 2002. This first series features three different references, each produced in four metals – yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and platinum. Each reference was limited: References 16/1860/1 and 16/1860/4 with officer’s caseback; produced in 100 examples of each metal. Reference 16/1860/2 with sapphire caseback; produced in 1,860 examples of each metal. Each reference was offered with silver, black, blue, and salmon dials however the salmon and blue dials were only available in white metals.

BREGUET A fine and attractive yellow gold triple date calendar wristwatch with moon phases and serpentine hand, retailed by Chaumet

Manufacturer Breguet Year Circa 1987

Reference No. 3040BA

Movement No. 232

Case No. 3530, caseback further stamped Chaumet Paris –3556 RE D

Model Name Serpentine

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 12’’’, 35 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial and movement signed.

Estimate

CHF 10,000–20,000

$11,800–23,600

€10,700–21,300

During the 20th century Breguet underwent different changes in ownership and in 1970 it was purchased by the Parisian jewelers Chaumet who subsequently sold the brand in 1987. It was during this time that the young Daniel Roth was brought onboard to revamp the brand to its past glory.

Even though Breguet belonged to Chaumet only a handful of timepieces were cosigned by both brands. The present timepiece is clearly a Breguet reference 3040 “Serpentine” featuring the day and date indications via apertures on the top part of the dial, moonphase indication at six and date on the inner track indicated by a serpentine hand – thus the watch’s nickname.

The present example, in overall superb condition presents two very rare elements, the gold guilloché dial that was found on the very early models and the Chaumet signature above the moonphase display where normally the watch number is featured and also engraved on the caseback along with the Breguet signature.

DANIEL ROTH A surprising and elegant white gold jump hour wristwatch with box, blank guarantee, number 43 of a limited edition of 110 pieces

Manufacturer Daniel Roth Year Circa 1998

Reference No. C317

Movement No. Rotor engraved with limited edition number 43/110

Case No. 43

Model Name Papillon

Material 18k white gold

Calibre Automatic, based on GP cal 3000

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle

Dimensions 35mm Width and 38mm Length

Signed Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate

CHF 30,000–60,000

$35,400–70,800

€32,000–64,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Daniel Roth special anniversary fitted box, undated and unstamped guarantee, hang tag, user manual, outer packaging.

The role of Daniel Roth in the rise of interest for independent watchmaking as we know it today cannot be highlighted enough. Roth was one of the earlier watchmakers who decided to thread his own path and create an eponymous brand. He did so in 1988 immediately imposing and carving his personal design language, most notably the ellipsocurvex case shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with either clou de Paris or vertical guilloche pattern.

The Papillon (or Butterfly) – named due to the dial’s winged design –was launched in 1998 in celebration of the brand’s 10th anniversary and the very last watch bearing the Daniel Roth name where the man himself was involved. It was made in a limited edition of 250 pieces: 30 pieces in platinum, 110 pieces in pink gold and 110 in white gold of which the present example is number 43. The Papillon features a digital jump hour display at 12 o’clock, the minutes are indicated via a semi-circle indication on the lower section and once the small hand reaches the 60 minute mark another hand appears at the 0 indication across.

A large seconds indication sits in the centre of the dial above the minutes indicator. It is interesting to note that in the 9 years Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has been holding watch auctions this is the very first time a Daniel Roth Papillon is being offered underlining the rarity of this piece.

DANIEL ROTH

Ref. C317 Papillon

FRANCK MULLER A historically important, rare and very early double-dialed platinum single-button chronograph wristwatch with world-time indication and Hagmann case

Manufacturer Franck Muller

Year 1991

Case No. 05

Model Name Janus

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, jeweled

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel deployant clasp signed Ebel

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate

CHF 100,000–200,000

$118,000–236,000

€107,000–213,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Franck Muller Certificate of Origin and Warranty.

It would be an understatement to say that Franck Muller took the watchmaking world by storm and was certainly one of the most sought after watchmakers in the 1980s. With the launch of his eponymous brand in the early 1990s he gained cult like status and rock star fame.

Considered a genius watchmaker with golden hands, Franck Muller graduated from watchmaking school in Geneva in the late 1970s and worked on restoring antique pieces. He rapidly established his own workshop in 1983, where he began crafting bespoke watches for private clients.

At a time where major historical brands had come limping out of the quartz crisis and were still trying to figure the direction to take, Muller – who at the time signed his watches under his first name only, Franck Genève – was creating masterpiece after masterpiece, world premiere after world premiere, at a mind boggling frequency having collectors lining at his door begging for one of his bespoke masterpieces.

FRANCK MULLER A historically important, rare and very early double-dialed platinum single-button chronograph wristwatch with world-time indication and Hagmann case

Below is just a very small indication of his world premiere creations that highlight his true horological – almost alien like – genius.

1984: First tourbillon wristwatch

1986: Tourbillon wristwatch with jumping hours, and regulator dial.

1987: Minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch.

1989: Minute repeating wristwatch with perpetual calendar and tourbillon.

1990: Tourbillon split-seconds chronograph wristwatch

1990: Minute repeater worldtime wristwatch

1991: Double faced worldtime with single button chronograph (the present watch and the last piece he made before using Franck Muller)

1992: Tourbillon split-second chronograph wristwatch with perpetual calendar.

1992: Double-face chronograph wristwatch.

The present double faced world time with single button chronograph was presented in 1991. It is believed that only 11 pieces were made in either yellow gold or platinum. Highly influenced by the Patek Philippe ref 1415HU worldtime chronograph of the 1940s, the movements were based on early 20th century calibers that Muller had found and to which he not only added a worldtime function based on the Cottier system but also a second chronograph counter on the back.

The front side of the dial features the worldtime and chronograph indications and is signed Franck Genève, whereas the back features a large central chronograph hand with pulsometer scale and a 30 minutes counter and is signed Franck Muller – a sign of the future birth of his eponymous brand. The present watch’s desirability hits new heights thanks to the fact that the case was made by J.P. Hagmann (who stamped his initials inside the lugs). J.P. Hagmann is widely considered one of the (if not the) best case maker in the entire history of horology, having collaborated with virtually all the most important brands. To give an example, when in 1989 Patek Philippe created the most complicated watch in the world (the Calibre 89), Hagmann was their case maker of choice for the pieces.

The watch was named Janus, the two-faced Roman god of gates, doors, doorways, beginnings, and endings. This obviously refers to the fact that the watch has two sides but also maybe because it represents the end of his career as an independent artisanal maker and the beginning of what would become one of the hottest and most influential brands of the 90s.

CORUM A cutting edge and lavish white gold linear movement wristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer Corum Year Circa 1985

Reference No. 13.850.56

Movement No. 2677

Model Name Golden Bridge

Material 18K white gold and diamonds

Calibre Manual,

Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Corum bracelet, max length 205mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Corum clasp

Dimensions 34mm Length x 25mm Width

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 6,000–12,000

$7,100–14,200

€6,400–12,800

The golden bridge is the brain child of self-taught watchmaker and AHCI co-founder Vincent Calabrese (In 2023 Calabrese and Andersen received the Achievement Award at the GPHG for the creation of AHCI). The idea came to him in the 1970s where he was working in restoration and a client presented him with a Breguet pocket watch whose movement and case had been badly damaged, the client requested only the case to be repaired as “no one saw the movement”.

Calabrese’s horological heart could not accept this and started devising a movement that would be striped to its bare essentials, a baguette movement with a linear gear train that could be miniatuarised to fit within a transparent exterior that would fit a wrist elegantly.

After years of trial and error, Calabrese presented his patented, 45-component creation at the 1977 edition of the Geneva International Inventors’ Show for which he won a prize. René Bannwart, founder of Corum saw the potential of the baguette movement and immediately acquired the patent. Corum then collaborated with Calabrese to develop the movement further and after three years, it was unveiled as the Golden Bridge at the 1980 Basel Fair, and became not only one of the most talked about watches of the time but Corum’s flagship line.

The present example is not only a fine example of the technical prowess of the movement, that is delightfully hand engraved, but is framed in a lavish white gold diamond set case with matching bracelet highlighting the importance of the movement.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX A very fine and attractive yellow gold tourbillon wristwatch with three gold bridges movement

Manufacturer Girard-Perregaux Year Circa 1992

Movement No. 15

Case No. 15

Model Name Tourbillon sous trois Ponts d’or

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Manual, cal. GP9000, 20 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k yellow gold Girard-Perregaux pin buckle

Dimensions 39mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 20,000–40,000

$23,600–47,200

€21,300–42,700

In 1867, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the ‘Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges’ a movement architecture devoid of traditional bridges replaced by three “bridges”. The watch won a First Class Bulletin from Neuchâtel Observatory the same year, but ultimate recognition came when the La Esmeralda Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges was presented at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1889, where the watch was awarded one of its highest honors, the gold medal.

In 1982 the brand recreated a modern pocket watch of its famous 3 golden bridge tourbillon of 1867, they did so by completely stripping apart the original model and reverse engineering all the components to create the 20th century version. However, the brand did not remain there and worked hard on miniaturing their pocketwatch masterpiece and in 1991 presented the Three Golden Bridges Tourbillon in a wristwatch making it one the very few brands that had mastered the complexity of the tourbillon in wristwatch format.

The present example with delicately guilloché baseplate is one of the very early examples bearing number 15.

EBEL A fine and extremely charming white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer Ebel

Year Circa 1985

Reference No. 3136901

Case No. 64300054

Material 18K white gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 136

Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Ebel bracelet, max length 205mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Ebel deployant clasp

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 8,000–16,000

$9,500–19,000

€8,500–17,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Ebel fitted presentation box.

Quite rapidly after the presentation of its chronograph, Ebel truly swung for the fences when, in 1984, the brand decided to take the model to the next level by adding a perpetual calendar to it. Ebel’s watchmakers retained the El Primero base, enhancing it with a Dubois-Dépraz perpetual calendar module. This new movement was then christened the Ebel caliber 136.

It is incredible to think that as early as 1984 Ebel was making such a complicated watch when the major Swiss brands were still working on simple complications and the Patek Philippe ref 3970 wouldn’t be launched for another year.

Ebel continued to respect and build on the original design codes they established in the late 1970s, from the five screws on the bezel to the impressively smooth case construction with effectively zero visible edges or corners to it, while also transforming Ebel’s entire watchmaking identity.

The present white gold example with matching (and hefty) bracelet is part of an incredibly small number made in this combination.

AUDEMARS PIGUET An extremely uncommon, highly impressive and very well-preserved yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, diamond and sapphire-set bezel and integrated bracelet

Manufacturer Audemars Piguet Year 1982

Reference No. 5552BA

Movement No. 174’633

Case No. B39642, 82

Material 18K yellow gold, diamond, sapphire

Calibre Automatic, cal. 2120/1, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet integrated bracelet, max length 180mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet clasp

Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 30,000–60,000

$35,400–70,800

€32,000–64,000

The rebirth of luxury mechanical watchmaking in the 1980s is one of the two possible reactions to the quartz crisis. The other was trying to compete on accuracy and price with quartz watches, and not many companies who tried this approach are still around to tell us how it went – which tells us how it went. Those who deemed making cheaper watches was not a viable solution to the crisis turned to the opposite spectrum of the market: luxury watchmaking.

The present piece can be considered one of the best examples of this reactionary path: not only is it an automatic wristwatch fitted with a perpetual calendar – a feat that in the 1980s, when the model was conceived, had been accomplished by only a handful of companies – but it furthermore features a diamond and sapphire, the latter even baguette-cut!, set bezel and diamond hour markers. It can be safely considered one of the ultimate examples of luxury watchmaking experimentalism of the time. The production cost (and retail price) of the watch must have been astronomical, as the solutions employed – both technical and aesthetic – were novel and thus most likely not yet economically refined in their execution.

Conceptually, it meant a paradigm-shift was happening in the industry: long gone were the times when a complicated dress watch for man had to be slim subdued and minute. The 1980s completed the process which had begun in the 1970s, with a revolution in composition, tastes and preferences of the society at large. For the first time in the history of watchmaking, a man’s automatic perpetual calendar could be fitted with a double circle of gemstones to the bezel, and diamond indexes to boot!

As we are now reaping the benefits of that small cultural revolution with a true blossoming of the appreciation of contemporary bejewelled, highly complicated timepieces, the present watch is inevitably to be considered an icon of watch collecting, one of the cornerstones upon which modern watchmaking trends have been built.

GÉRALD GENTA A breathtaking and most probably unique Yttrium automatic two train minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve, mother-of-pearl dial and Westminster Chimes

Manufacturer Gérald Genta

Year Circa 1996

Reference No. GGM1

Case No. 001

Model Name “Grande and Petite Sonnerie” Number 1

Material Yttrium

Calibre Automatic, cal. 31000, 57 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Gerald Genta clasp

Dimensions 38mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 80,000–160,000

$94,400–189,000

€85,400–171,000

Gérald Genta is one of the most influential figures in horological history. Having left an inedible mark in watchmaking, he is best known for creating iconic models such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur. His designs are flagship models of each manufacture and some even argue that his creations have themselves become a brand in itself. In 1994, Genta embarked on a journey to create his most complicated wristwatches to date.

When it made its debut in 1994, reputedly conceived specifically for the Sultan of Brunei, Genta’s Grande Sonnerie was the second wristwatch model after Dufour to feature a Grande Sonnerie showing the incredible dexterity of the dream team behind the movement: Pierre Michel Golay, Demetrio Cabbidu, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Very few Grande Sonnerie models were made in the 1990s mainly with a multi step round or pyramid shape case.

The present example in Yttrium (a metal part of the rare earth classification) is a horological masterpiece and absolutely mind boggling in every conceivable way. The use of rare and unusual metals was uncommon in the 1990s showing Genta’s forward thinking, but the watch is not only a Grande Sonnerie but a minute repeater with Westminster chimes (on three gongs) and a tourbillon. The guilloche mother of pearl dial adds an extra touch of finesse to this masterpiece.

The caliber 31000 is one of the most impressive conceptions of modern horology. To combine the different complications within the confines of a 38 millimeter case is no easy feat. Over 1000 components of the movement are decorated with painstaking care and inspired by nature. The automatic movement is particularly noteworthy, making this model part of the exceedingly small series of automatic “grande and petite sonnerie” watches ever made and most probably unique in a Yttrium case.

Ref. GGM1 “Grande and Petite Sonnerie” Number 1

An extremely scarce, highly collectible and attractive yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, certificate of origin and presenation box

From the launch of its first perpetual calendar wristwatch made in series, the reference 1526 in 1941 up til the launch of reference 3940 in 1985, Patek Philippe perpetual calendar wristwatches all featured a similar display layout with day and month indicators via appertures on the top part of the dial and date and moonphases at 6 o’clock. Reference 3450 launched in 1981 is the successor to ref. 3448, Patek Philippe’s very first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch. While aesthetically similar to its predecessor, it most notably features a leap year indication on the dial near 3 o’clock. In addition, its caseback is slightly smaller and is fitted with a “lip”, enabling it to be easily removed. It is the first serially made Patek Philippe wristwatch featuring leap year indication. The case design of the model dates back to the 1960s (ref. 3448 was launched in 1962) and it is an ode to timelessly futuristic designs: the dial is airy and clean and the aesthetic impact of the watch is entrusted to the sculpted case defined by the straight, angular lugs, the large polished sloped bezel (thus its Italian nickname “Padellone” –meaning “big pan”) and the satin-finished band.

Technically, the model represents one of the pinnacles of watchmaking. It is powered by the caliber 27–460Q, the perpetual (Q: Quantiême) upgrade of calibre 27–460 which is considered one of the finest automatic movements of all time. The present watch, manufactured in 1984, is among the very last examples of reference 3450s ever made before the introduction of reference 3940. While the first generation examples were fitted with a “red dot” to indicate the leap year, second generation examples displayed Roman numerals I, II, III and IV, like the present model. The present timepiece is not only extremely well preserved with crisp hallmarks on the flank and beautifully angled lugs, but it is furthermore accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, box and product literature. Also due to its short run (1981–1985) Patek Philippe produced very limited quantities of reference 3450, typically casing the model in yellow gold. To date, scholars estimate that Patek Philippe produced only 237 examples in totalof which around 110 examples have come to the market – making it one of the rarest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar models ever produced in series.

PATEK PHILIPPE

An extremely scarce, highly collectible and attractive yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, certificate of origin and presenation box

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1984

Reference No. 3450

Movement No. 1’119’760

Case No. 2’808’536

Model Name “Padellone”

Material 18k yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 27–460, 37 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k yellow gold PPCo pin buckle

Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Provenance

Christie’s, Geneva 17 November 2008 Lot 61

Estimate

CHF 150,000–300,000

$177,000–354,000

€160,000–320,000

Accessories

Accompanied by fitted box, Certificate of Origin dated 15 February 1985, product literature, Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1984 and its subsequent sale on December 10, 1984, Patek Philippe service receipt from 1992, Patek Philippe service receipt from 2016 and outer packaging.

DEREK PRATT FOR URBAN JÜRGENSEN A unique, historical and era defining detent escapement tourbillon platinum oval pocketwatch with remontoire, power reserve indication, thermometer and moonphase display and additional original silver case

Manufacturer Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen

Year 2005

Case No. N°1

Model Name “The Oval”

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual wind inhouse

Dimensions 76mm length X 62mm width

Signed Case, dial and movement signed

Provenance

Private collection of Dr. Helmut Crott

Estimate

CHF 1,000,000–2,000,000

$1,180,000–2,360,000

€1,070,000–2,130,000

Accessories

Accompanied by original sterling silver case, box, wining and setting key, chain and outer packaging.

It is with an immense sense of exhilaration, pride and humility that we offer for the very first time at auction the iconic Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen Detent Escapement Tourbillon with Remontoire in an oval case, best known as simply the Derek Pratt Oval.

There are few watches that have been talked about in such length but actually seen so little as the Oval. This watch was not only the culmination of Pratt’s oeuvre but one of the most important, influential and era defining watches of the 20th century in the same vein as the Patek Philippe Graves Super Complication or the Vacheron Constantin Farouk.

Pratt was a contemporary of George Daniels with whom he had long telephone conversations each Sunday, where each exchanged experiences and challenges faced in their respective pursuit of chronometry. Even though not officially recognized by Daniels, the latter consulted Pratt on many of his innovations and Pratt even made some components for him.

“The Oval Tourbillon”

Derek Pratt’s oeuvre however was never completed under his own name but that of the newly reborn Urban Jürgensen & Sonner brand (based in Switzerland) as the latter’s technical director from 1982 to 2005. Pratt designed complications for Urban Jürgensen and even created the brand’s beautiful guilloché dials. However, his true passion laid in pocket watches and the pursuit of chronometry, a passion that materialized under the form of the sublime tourbillon pocket watches he made for the brand.

Pratt earned a number of awards throughout his lifetime including Freeman of England’s Worshipful Company of Clockmakers (1979), Liveryman of the society (1982), silver medal of British Horological Institute (1992), the MIH’s Prix Gaïa for artisanal creation (1999), and the Tompion gold medal of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers (2005).

In an article published in April 1993 in the Horological Journal, Pratt specified the genesis for this oval watch “As a child I had been fascinated by oval tins. My own interest in oval watches stems right back to those examples, but on seeing the oval Breguet N°1682/4761 [made in 1822 to Count Nikita Petrovich Panin and subsequently sold to the famous pianist Arthur Rubinstein] I felt positively inspired and resolved to make an oval watch myself… The watch was mostly realized as an homage to some of the most preeminent watchmakers of all time, like Abraham-Louis Breguet, John Arnold, and Professor Alfred Helwig.”

Pratt was looking to achieve symmetrical aesthetics with highly legible indications: central hours/minutes hands, a large subseconds at 6 o’clock, a power reserve indicator on the left part of the dial, a thermometer on the right section and a moonphase display at noon. The challenge Pratt undertook was to first design a watch and then the movement, making his task even more difficult and the final result even more impressive.

Peter Baumberger holding the Oval

Pratt started work on the piece in 1982 not only at a time where pocket watches were a novelty but where mechanical watches were still struggling to survive following the tsunami of cheap quartz watches that had hit the industry hard. Pratt not shying away from painstaking work made the watch entirely by hand, using traditional techniques and hand operated tools and machines starting with sheets of metal and brass cutting, milling, filing and polishing each individual component by hand.

The movement features a tourbillon visible through the back, but not “just” a tourbillon but a detent escapement with remontoire (constant force). In the Horological Journal, vol. 134, no 1, published in July 1991, Pratt writes “many remontoire mechanisms have been made over the last 300 hundred years or so but, as far as I know, this watch is the first to have a remontoire incorporated in the carriage of a tourbillon and is, therefore, something new or innovative ”. The remontoire is a constant force device enabling an equal flow of energy from the barrel to the movement ensuring that regardless the state of wind of the watch the same level of energy is provided resulting in greater accuracy. This mechanism is very difficult to manufacture and requires extremely tight tolerances. After manufacturing, the parts have to be assembled and regulated very precisely. The Oval also features a detent (or chronometer) escapement, a grail of chronometry and the result of a historical pursuit for precision, the detent escapement is one of the most accurate types of escapements. Developed in the mid-18th Century, it was mostly used in marine chronometers.

In the detent escapement, the balance wheel swings undisturbed during most of its cycle, except the brief impulse period, which is only given once per cycle. It runs virtually without friction and the escape wheel teeth do not require oiling. The dial of the Oval watch is also a gem of design and craftsmanship, it is divided into three parts – all made of solid silver – and fixed onto the main plate with four screws at two, four, eight, and 10 o’clock. It incorporates a cutout for the moon phase at 12 o’clock, the hour chapter ring, and an overlapping large seconds counter at 6 o’clock.

Pratt had a developed a fascination for guillochage and he made the engine turned dial by hand while the indications are hand engraved and inked. Imagine that the cut-out for the moon phase was sawn out by hand and reworked with a file and one can start to fathom the mind boggling hand work that went into the creation of this masterpiece. The case was also fully hand made by Pratt, the original case was in silver (which accompanies this piece), subsequently a platinum (in which the present watch is cased) and pink gold case were produced between 2005 and 2006 by Bruno Affolter, a case maker in La Chaux-de-Fonds now known as Les Artisans Boîtiers.

One of the biggest challenges Pratt met was surprisingly finding a company that could make a large oval shaped crystal, a task that no one agreed to undertake considering the difficulty. Consequently, like he had done for the case, dial and movement, Pratt set out to create the crystals himself, including the one in the back that has the extra difficulty of bearing two holes for winding and setting the watch.

In 1993 the watch – although unfinished – was presented in the Basel Watch fair to critical acclaim, however it wasn’t until 12 years later, in 2005–23 years after it was started – that the watch was fully finished. However, in 2004 with declining health Pratt handed the watch to Kari Voutilainen – whom after having worked with Pratt at Urban Jürgensen had set up his own workshops – to apply the final touches to the watch including the superlative and mind bending finish that can be found on the movement, including the underdial. Pratt was so proud of this watch that he added a sketch of it to his business card. The Oval watch is not only Pratt’s magnum opus but a masterpiece in every sense. A watch that defines horological finesse, complexity and tradition.

A watch that the cognoscenti whisper about with knowing nods, a watch that since 2005 has been in the private collection of Dr. Helmut Crott, one of the world’s most prominent collectors and scholars. A watch that is making its auction debut over 40 years after it was started and 20 years since its finish. A watch of which there is not only no other example of but also nothing even similarly close and as such its appearance offers an opportunity for the collector to obtain a unique crown jewel as there is not another one, and it is highly likely that once this watch is sold it will not grace the auction market for decades to come.

PATEK PHILIPPE A very elegant and refined yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet, original certificate and presentation box

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1989

Reference No. 3800/1J

Movement No. 2’853’798

Case No. 1’427’144

Model Name Nautilus

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 335SC, 29 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 200mm

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate

CHF 40,000–80,000

$47,200–94,400

€42,700–85,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped Somazzi S.A. and dated April 17, 1989, service papers, copy of original invoice, winding box, presentation box and outer packaging.

Slightly smaller than its older sibling reference 3700, reference 3800 is an incredibly compact and chic version of the original Nautilus. In production between 1981 and 2006, the reference 3800 was the mid-sized version in the legendary Patek Philippe Nautilus series.

This attractive and exceedingly well-preserved yellow gold example displays a champagne dial, which is confirmed by the Certificate of Origin. It is preserved in excellent condition with crisp bevels and sharp edges throughout and a strong bracelet.

There is a treasure trove of accessories that come with this watch, such as the Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped Somazzi S.A. and dated April 17, 1989, service papers, copy of original invoice, winding box, presentation box and outer packaging.

As an additional point of interest, the copy of the original invoice states that the watch was sold for 14’500 CHF in 1989 – an exceedingly large and impressive sum at the time.

FRANCK MULLER A rare and attractive pink gold double-faced chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silvered dials, pulsations, telemeter and tachymeter scales, certificate of origin and presentation box

Manufacturer Franck Muller

Year Circa 1998

Reference No. 2870 NADF

Case No. 21

Model Name Chronographe Double Face

Material 18k pink gold

Calibre Manual, cal. 1872, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Alligator

Clasp/Buckle 18k pink gold FM pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 5,000–10,000

$5,900–11,800

€5,300–10,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Franck Muller Certificate of Origin, hang tag, presentation box and outer packaging.

Famously known for being the acclaimed master of complications, Franck Muller has created some of the most technically challenging and ultra-complex timepieces packed with complications since he opened his own ateliers in the early 1980s.

Not only known for creating complicated timepieces, Franck Muller is also a trendsetter to an extent by being one of the pioneers of creating timepieces based off incredible vintage models that has inspired a new appeal to the industry, which is evidently reflected in today’s trend of vintage-inspired timepieces.

Being one of Franck Muller’s early creations during arguably the most fascinating period of the firm, the Double Face chronograph is a classic fully geared chronograph timepiece with two dials with the backside complete with pulsations, telemeter and tachymeter scales. Taking his inspiration from vintage Omega and Longines chronograph pocket watches, it is important to note that the concept was also perceived from a vintage Movado double faced chronograph.

Powered by the manual winding Lemania cal. 1872, the legendary movement has powered many other iconic Franck Muller timepieces. While the Double Face Chronograph model was in production until 2010 with various dial designs, materials and case sizes ranging from 37mm to 44mm, pink gold cases like the present example are particularly rare especially when one compares to the yellow gold case. Notably, the revived Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph is evidently inspired by the present timepiece, with an additional split-seconds module.

Ref. 2870 NADF Chronographe Double Face

AUDEMARS PIGUET A superb, rare, historic and groundbreaking platinum tourbillon wristwatch with mother of pearl dial, certificate of origin and presentation box

Manufacturer Audemars Piguet Year Circa 1990

Reference No. 25643

Case No. 15

Material Platinum

Calibre Automatic, cal. 2870, 32 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Audemars Piguet pin buckle

Dimensions 28.5mm width x 38mm length

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 20,000–40,000

$23,600–47,200

€21,300–42,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted box, Certificate of Origin, product literature, hang tag and outer packaging.

The Audemars Piguet reference 25643 is a model of many firsts. With the idea sparking in 1982 and launching in 1986, it was the world’s very first automatic tourbillon wristwatch as well as the very first serially produced tourbillon wristwatch. Adding to its incredible pedigree is that the watch was also extremely thin at 5.3mm which made the watch the thinnest automatic tourbillon wristwatch for decades to come.

To obtain maximum thinness the movement does not have a backplate per se but rather the watch’s caseback acts as a backplate in which the jewels are visible from the back. Caliber 2870 was groundbreaking at time of launch, it has a very small, very light tourbillon carriage, 7.2 mm in diameter, and 2.5mm in height and is made of titanium – the first time this metal was used in a tourbillon. To further maintain the thinness the traditional rotor was done away and replaced by a “hammer system”.

The dial design is as audacious as the concept behind the watch. According to Audemars Piguet the sunray pattern, was derived from an Egyptian relief carving of the Pharaoh Akhenaton and his wife, Nefertiti. The tourbillon placed at 11 o’clock represents the sun, with its rays adorning the dial with 12 hour markers representing planets. The half moon aperture at 6 o’clock offers a view of the rotor. Reference 25643 was in production until 1999, 401 pieces were made in total of which only 22 in platinum like the present example, which is made even rarer thanks to the flamboyant use of blue mother of pearl “rays”. The present watch, part of the earlier production pieces with hooded lugs comes with its original set of accessories.

Ref. 25643 “Tourbillon Automatique”

BLANCPAIN A unique and cheeky pink gold minute repeating wristwatch with erotic automata and enamel with blank papers and box

Manufacturer Blancpain Year Circa 1995

Case No. 443–332.4.D

Material 18k pink gold

Calibre Manual, cal.0033

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k pink gold Blancpain pin buckle

Dimensions 33.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 15,000–30,000

$17,700–35,400

€16,000–32,000

Accessories

Accompanied by fitted box in shape of a book, blank guarantee, user manual and Hours of Love book by R. Carrera (retracing the history of erotic timepieces).

Blancpain was one of the most influential brands of the 1980s and whose implication and relevance in the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking cannot be highlighted enough. In 1981 Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet (the owner of the Frederic Piguet movement manufactory) bought the rights to the name Blancpain (who had more or less gone out of business in the 1970s) and made it into one of the greatest power houses of the end on the century.

In 1988 Blancpain introduced the ultra slim minute repeater and in 1993 introduced versions featuring automata depicting erotic scenes in the back. Erotic watches were mainly seen in pocket watches of the 17th and 18th centuries either with enameled scenes hidden inside the hinge covers or even highly complex examples featuring automata. As a homage to these highly complex and historically cheeky timepieces Blancpain offered – as unique pieces and often as custom orders-erotic minute repeaters with lavishly engraved characters moving to the rhythm of chimes. The present example also features a lovely enameled background representing a forest.

The present unique piece demonstrates the fact that Blancpain not only participated in the rebirth of complex mechanical mechanisms in the 1980s–1990s but also in the reintroduction of fine artistic crafts such as engraving and enameling in watchmaking.

“Erotique Pièce

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER A lovely and elegant platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date and moonphase indication

Manufacturer Parmigiani Fleurier

Year Circa 1999

Case No. 3465

Model Name Toric Perpetual Calendar

Material Platinum

Calibre Automatic, cal 130,5 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Parmigiani Fleurier pin buckle

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Parmigiani Fleurier fitted box.

Michel Parmigiani is certainly one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation. He hesitated at length between pursuing a degree in architecture or watchmaking and finally decided on the latter but all his work has been inspired by the former. At just the age of 26 he opened his own restoration workshops in 1976 and soon after began creating unique timepieces for his discerning clientele.

Some of the greatest independent watchmakers of today cut their teeth on restoration, working for Parmigiani including Kari Voutilainen, Denis Flageollet, Stepan Sarpaneva, and Raúl Pagès. Parmigiani’s workshops were known to restore the most important pieces ever made and even restoring watches and clocks that were deemed impossible to restore, including one of Breguet’s original Sympathie clocks.

Michel Parmigiani launched his eponymous brand in 1996 focusing mainly on table clocks and pocket watches and launching his first wristwatch model in 1998: The Toric. The models featured single or double stepped knurled bezels, javelin hands and often intricately guilloché dials. The Toric perpetual calendar was first launched in 1999 and featured an extremely legible dial with the day and month indications read via apertures, the date indicated by a retrograde hand (a true novelty for the epoch), the leap year indicator at the top part of the dial and moonphase indication is placed at 6 o’clock. A timepiece of utmost elegance and technical ingenuity the present Toric perpetual calendar is a potent mix of Michel Parmigiani’s technical dexterity and design prowess.

ANDERSEN GENEVE A spectacular and unique pink gold minute repeating split seconds chronograph wristwatch with retrograde date, minutes counter and moonphase display, case made by JP Hagmann

Dubbed the “Watchmaker of the Impossible”, Danish born Svend Andersen moved to Switzerland in 1963 and worked for famed retailer Gübelin in their aftersales service. During his spare time he worked on a “Bottle Clock” a clock that was placed within a small bottle where Andersen had to assemble a working clock inside the confined space of said bottle! The “Bottle Clock” was exhibited in 1969 at the “Montres et Bijoux” fair and the same year Andersen joined Patek Philippe at the Grand Complications workshop.

A pioneer in spirit, Andersen had the courage to set out on his own in 1980 in the midst of the quartz crisis with an aim to create unique bespoke timepieces. In 1985 with Vincent Calabrese – he cofounded the AHCI (Académie Horloger des Createurs Independent/ Horological Academy of Independent Creators) for which the duo received the Achievement Award at the GPHG in 2023. Andersen lived up to his reputation as the “Watchmaker of the Impossible” by crafting unique complications for a discerning clientele and the present unique masterpiece is a perfect example. Made upon commission by a very demanding collector and based on a vintage ebauche, Andersen devised a highly complicated wristwatch, the likes of which had never been seen before! A minute repeating split seconds chronograph, merging two of horology’s most complex complications to master and having taken over 3 years to make.

ANDERSEN GENEVE A spectacular and unique pink gold minute repeating split seconds chronograph wristwatch with retrograde date, minutes counter and moonphase display, case made by JP Hagmann

Manufacturer Andersen Geneve Year 1993

Reference No. 369

Movement No. 20’212

Material 18k pink gold

Calibre Manual, vintage ebauche

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k pink gold Andersen pin buckle

Dimensions 43.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial and buckle signed Andersen Genève, movement signed Golay Leresche & Fils

Estimate

CHF 70,000–140,000

$82,600–165,000

€74,700–149,000

Accessories

Andersen Genève fitted box, copy of an article (in German) published by Chronos Magazine in May 1993 and Andersen Genève Certificate confirming the watch was made between 1990 and 1993 and that it is a unique piece.

In his usual whimsical manner, Andersen designed the repeating mechanism to be activated by turning the bezel and thus doing away with the traditional trigger on the side of the case. Furthermore, not content to offer only two extremely complex complications in the watch, Andersen added a retrograde chronograph minute counter at 1 o’clock, a retrograde date at 5 o’clock as well as a moonphase indication. It is very important to highlight that even though today retrograde indications are often seen, this was definitely not the case in the early 1990s.

Already an extraordinary timepiece with a movement made by a horological genius, the case is made by an artisan at least equally legendary in his own field to Andersen – J.P. Hagmann, who is widely considered one of the (if not the) best case makers in the entire history of horology, having collaborated with virtually all the most important brands. To give an example, when in 1989 Patek Philippe created the most complicated watch in the world (the Calibre 89), Hagmann was their case maker of choice for the pieces.

The present incredible timepiece is fresh to the market, offered by its original owner and a superb example of the innovative spirit and out of the box thinking of Svend Andersen.

MINERVA An attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with engraved case, blank guarantee and box, number 47 of a 80 piece limited edition

Manufacturer Minerva Year Circa 1995

Reference No. C722

Case No. 730’989 caseback further engraved with limited edition number 47/80

Model Name Phoebus

Material 18k yellow gold

Calibre Manual, Cal 72, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k yellow gold Minerva pin buckle

Dimensions 37mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 3,000–6,000

$3,500–7,100

€3,200–6,400

Accessories

Accompanied by fitted box, undated and unstamped guarantee, polishing cloth and outer packaging.

Brothers Charles and Hyppolite Robert founded H. & C. Robert in 1858, ultimately becoming Minerva (the Roman goddess of handcrafts, the professions, the arts, and, later, war) in 1887. The brand introduced its first chronograph movement in 1908 and made a name for itself in the subsequent years as a makers of well crafted high quality chronographs.

The brand went through ups and downs in its long history until the Frey family took over in the 1960s and steered the company successfully through the quartz crisis of the 1970s. Minerva not only survived thanks to the recognized quality of its chronographs and rare capability to produce in-house its own balance wheels and hairsprings but fully concentrated its efforts in the 1980s–1990s on chronographs.

The present Phoebus (the Greek God of light, god of prophecy, poetry, music and healing) presented in the early 1990s was made in a limited edition of 80 pieces, of which the present example is number 47 and houses the iconic and vintage new old stock Valjoux 72 chronograph caliber. The present example features the black gilt dial, which is rarer than its white gloss counterpart.The yellow gold case is beautifully hand engraved on the flank and frames an attractive black glossy dial providing for a very attractive combination.

VACHERON

Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year 1990

Reference No. 43032

Movement No. 99’319

Case No. 626’457

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1120/1, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 20,000–40,000

$23,600–47,200

€21,300–42,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming production in 1990, product literature and fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

With the advent of the quartz crisis, it was up to the “Big Three” of watchmaking to recapture the public’s interest in high watchmaking. While Patek Philippe released the reference 3940 and Audemars Piguet the reference 25548BA (which eventually spawned various metal and dial variants), Vacheron Constantin had its own version: The reference reference 43031, or its skeletonized counterpart, the reference 43032, such as the present watch. While the reference 43031 was launched in 1983, the skeletonized version was released a year after. The name Vacheron Constantin is inextricably linked with the creation of beautiful skeletonized wristwatches and pocket watches, and it comes as no surprise that the brand integrated this craft in their perpetual calendar model.

The model was in production for almost two decades until its discontinuation in 2002. following the production of several variants in different metals and dial configurations. Inside, the reference 43032 is powered by the skeletonized and hand engraved caliber 1120 QP. Setting itself apart from its peers, it most notably displays a 48 month cycle on the subsidiary register at 6 o’clock, which conveniently enables the wearer to track which stage of the four-year cycle they’re in. Preserved in excellent condition with crisp engravings throughout, the present watch showcases a correct 90s dial featuring a more centred and slightly larger logo mark and white subsidiary dials.

BREGUET A superb and rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphase indication

Manufacturer Breguet Year Circa 1990

Reference No. 3617

Movement No. 1285

Case No. 3044G

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, cal 2310

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k white gold Breguet deployant clasp

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Accessories

Accompanied by

Breguet’s reference 3617 was launched in the early 1990s and merges a perpetual calendar and chronograph in an elegant and legible manner. The day of the week is indicated within the subdial at 9 o’clock, the date in the subdial at 3 o’clock and the month and leap year in a subdial at 12 o’clock. In typical Breguet manner, the dial is lavishly hand guilloche with different patterns, the centre features a classical clous de Paris pattern, the chronograph subdials feature a basket weave pattern whereas the moonphase indication features a wave pattern. Beating within is one of the most respected manual wind chronograph movements: the Lemania Cal. 2310 – a movement also found in the iconic Patek Philippe ref 3970. A highly collectible piece, the present reference 3617 is made even more covetable by its ultra rare and hardly seen platinum livery.

DANIEL ROTH A very attractive and early platinum chronograph wristwatch with guilloché dial, certificate of origin and presentation box

Manufacturer Daniel Roth Year 1992

Reference No. 2147

Case No. 3

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, cal. 2320, 21 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Daniel Roth pin buckle

Dimensions 38mm Width and 35mm Length

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Daniel Roth fitted box, warranty, letter from Roth to the owner and outer packaging.

Daniel Roth is considered today one of the most brilliant watchmakers of his generation. The importance of Daniel Roth in today’s success of independent watchmaking cannot be underscored enough. By creating his eponymous brand in the late 1980s after having worked at Audemars Piguet and Breguet, he was one the earliest master watchmakers who decided to go independent and put his vision and talent in a watch with his name on the dial. Upon launch of his brand, Roth immediately established his personal design language, the most obvious being the unusual ellipsocurvex shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with guilloché patterns (either Clous de Paris or horizontal stripes)

The present very early reference 2147 from 1992 bearing number 3 in platinum houses the iconic Lemania 2320 also known as CH–27 movement that Roth refined and started reusing during his time at Breguet and used by other greats such as Patek Philippe for their references 5070, 3970 and 5970, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and of course Breguet.

The present chronograph in platinum from 1992 with white gold contrasting dial is a sight to behold. The closed caseback features the beautifully hand engraved initials CR in a floral motif. In a letter dated 9 April 1992 from Daniel Roth to the owner Mr Rosmino, the master watchmaker writes that he appreciates the client’s support and that he will reserve every future Daniel Roth number 3 for him.

CARTIER A very fine and rare asymmetrical wristwatch, numbered 350 of a limited edition of 400 pieces with guarantee and box

Manufacturer Cartier Year 1991

Case No. A109159 and 350–91

Model Name Crash

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Manual, cal. 1978–2, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp

Dimensions 38mm length and 23mm width

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 50,000–100,000

$59,000–118,000

€53,400–107,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Cartier fitted box, International Guarantee Certificate (blank), Limited Edition Certificate, product literature and outer packaging.

An icon of the swinging sixties crafted by the great maker of shaped watches, the Cartier Crash remains not just one of the most radical designs born in 1967 but one of the greatest throughout the decades. With a mysterious origin of the birth of this model, rumour has it that the inspiration comes from a melted Cartier Baignoire from the fire of a car crash, others refer it to the surrealist Salvador Dali’s most recognised work, Persistence of Memory. While the tale of the timepiece is compelling and romantic, the origin was addressed in Francesca Cartier Brickell’s book, The Cartiers, where she recounts a conversation with her grandfather Jean-Jacques Cartier, about how the audacity of the design was sketched out with artisan Rupert Emmerson.

Today, the Cartier Crash has become somewhat of a cultural icon, adorning the wrists of celebrities and artists alike. It represents everything that Cartier is best known for: merging design, form and function together which transforms a timepiece beyond a “watch” and into a piece of art. Whereas the original London Crash of the 1960s was a special commission piece the, the present watch from 1991 represents the introduction of the Crash into the Cartier catalogue as a production piece. Offered by its original owner and in excellent condition and accompanied by its full set of accessories, the present watch is number 350 of a limited edition of 400 pieces.

PATEK PHILIPPE An ultra rare and historic white gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, leap year and 24-hour indications and certificate of origin

Patek Philippe’s minute repeater perpetual calendar reference 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary, featuring an in-house self-winding movement, it was the world’s most complicated wristwatch at the time. The movement beating in the heart of this masterpiece is Patek Philippe’s caliber 27RQ, an impressively thin movement measuring just 6.8mm, comprised of 467 components. Another surprising feature is the micro-rotor, which provides an unobtrusive view into the superbly finished movement. The historical reference 3974 additionally standsout as the first automatic-winding, minute repeating watch ever made, beating the Blancpain reference 5335 by a few months.

Even though the case architecture is derived from the iconic reference 2499 with its stepped arched lugs, the case is undoubtedly modern in its design. Patek Philippe turned to Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a living legend among case makers, to create a case that would not only be a beautiful vessel for the watch but could also act as a superb sound carrier for the repeater’s delicate chimes. These minute repeaters are known to be Monsieur Hagmann’s favorite creations for the brand, and the early examples with his initials are coveted by collectors. He began his career creating watch bracelets at Gay Frères and went on to create watch cases for the most illustrious Swiss brands – even creating the 26 cases for Patek Philippe’s Star Calibre 2000 in six weeks. The chimes in the present timepiece are crystal clear, perfectly-timed, loud, and extremely pleasant to the ear – thanks to Patek Philippe’s technical expertise and Hagmann’s savoir faire.

Patek Philippe discontinued the 3974 in 2000, and given how complex it was to manufacture, very few examples were made over its 11-year production period. In fact, the present example in white gold, fresh to the market, is the rarest of all case metals and is only the fifth known, according to scholarship.

PATEK PHILIPPE

An ultra rare and historic white gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, leap year and 24-hour indications and certificate of origin

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 1989

Reference No. 3974

Movement No. 1’906’063

Case No. 2’915’322

Material 18k white gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. R27Q, 39 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 600,000–1,200,000

$708,000–1,420,000

€640,000–1,280,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe, Certificate of Origin, setting pin, product literature, leather portfolio.

AUDEMARS PIGUET A highly rare limited edition platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with Mk 1 dial, bracelet and copy of the original invoice, numbered 12 out of 25 pieces made

Manufacturer Audemars Piguet Year 1991

Reference No. 25686PT

Movement No. 346’881

Case No. C84190 and 12/25

Model Name Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Material Platinum

Calibre Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp

Dimensions 39mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate

CHF 150,000–300,000

$177,000–354,000

€160,000–320,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extrait de Registre confirming the Register date on June 27, 1991, copy of the original purchase invoice, service receipt and presentation box.

A new perpetual calendar reference produced from 1987 to 1993, reference 25686 was made in 85 in steel, 70 in yellow gold, 43 in two-tone, 26 in platinum, and 9 in pink gold. Reference 25686 marked an important stage in the history of the model. For the very first time, the watch was fitted with an open sapphire caseback, revealing the openworked movement.

There is so much more to the Royal Oak than meets the eye. Starting out over 50 years ago as a wild bet to create a “sports” watch that cost more than classic gold timepieces, it is a model that has become one of the best selling leisure watches of the past years and an immediately recognizable icon. The Royal Oak is a timepiece that set the benchmark on many fronts. Not only was it the very first luxury sports watch when launched in 1972, it was also the very first luxury sports watch featuring a complication.

The present watch is arguably one of the most precious and noble examples of the reference. It is crafted in platinum, and is numbered 12 of a limited edition series of 25 pieces. It most notably is fitted with a “Mk 1” dial that does not display the leap year. Furthermore, it is preserved in excellent condition with sharp bevels, crisp hallmarks and good rigidity to the bracelet.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE An extremely rare and important stainless steel wristwatch with oversized date and power reserve, in “New Old Stock” condition

The 1990s saw the rebirth of A. Lange & Söhne. The first collection, which was comprised of four watches (the Lange 1, Arkade, Saxonia and Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite”) was initially presented in 1994 and immediately rose to the forefront of haute horology. One of these four watches was the Lange 1, a watch that came to define the brand’s aesthetics and become an icon of the end of the millennium. Displaying eccentric time and seconds with an asymmetrically positioned large date window and power reserve at 3 o’clock, the model has become a landmark for the brand and widely recognized throughout the horological sphere. Impressive during its initial launch, the Lange 1 is regarded as one of the most popular models manufactured by the firm.

Cased in stainless steel, this timepiece is immediately recognizable due to its silvered dial and blued steel hands. The present watch can be considered the “holy grail” of all Langes. It is one of the very rare instances that the brand cased any model in non-precious metal. In fact, A. Lange & Söhne never officially launched a stainless steel watch until the arrival of the Odysseus in late October 2019. As such, the Lange 1 in stainless steel was never offered in a catalogue and the manufacture has never confirmed the exact number of stainless steel examples produced. Experts estimate that approximately 30 were made in total, of which some have appeared sporadically on the international auction market. The origins of this watch are shrouded in mystery: Research shows that some were made in 1994 upon the official re-launch of the A. Lange & Söhne brand, and also produce during the period from 1996–1999.

Ref. 101.026 Lange 1 “Stainless Steel NOS”

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

An extremely rare and important stainless steel wristwatch with oversized date and power reserve, in “New Old Stock” condition

Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne Year 1999

Reference No. 101.026

Case No. 117’955

Model Name Lange 1

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Manual, cal. L901.0, 53 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Alligator

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel A. Lange & Söhne buckle

Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Provenance

Phillips New York, Game Changers, 10 December 2019, Lot 62

Estimate

CHF 150,000–300,000

$177,000–354,000

€160,000–320,000

Accessories

Accompanied by copy of original invoice #18351 indicating purchase from A. Lange & Söhne dating from 29 November 1999 for 8,831.00 EUR or 17,271.93 Deutsche Marks, a copy of the inventory ledger from Cellini Jewelers for the entry of the watch, and a provenance letter from the President and Owner of Cellini Jewelers.

In 1999, New York based Cellini Jewelers President Leon Adams received an invoice from A. Lange & Söhne, wherein he accepted delivery of three A. Lange & Söhne watches, including a stainless steel Lange 1 reference 101.026 bearing the case number 117’955, for the price of 8,831 EUR. For the next 20 years it sat – untouched, undisturbed – in a Cellini inventory drawer until it was offered by Phillips in New York in 2019 where it was purchased by the current owner, who never wore it.

The watch is thus still in new old stock condition, and has never had a strap been fitted to the case and maintains its original sticker on the caseback marked NFS in red. Not For Sale.

PATEK PHILIPPE

An exquisite, elegant and highly collectible platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, 24-hours indication, leap cycle indication, black gloss dial with diamond-set numerals, certificate, additional caseback and box

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1997

Reference No. 3970E

Movement No. 3’045’648

Case No. 4’010’758

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, cal. CH27’70 Q, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Accompanied by platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 90,000–180,000

$106,000–212,000

€96,000–192,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin code dated July 1997 and stamped by Hong Kong retailer Emperor Watch and Jewellery Co. Ltd., additional solid caseback, setting pin, wooden presentation box and outer packaging.

Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 was a new generation of the brand’s famed serialised perpetual calendar chronograph first released in 1941 with the reference 1518, and followed ten years later by the reference 2499. Launched in 1986, the new reference featured a similar aesthetic to its predecessors with pump-style pushers and down turned stepped lugs, however, the case diameter was reduced in size from 37.5mm to 36mm. The wristwatch was upgraded with a heavily modified Lemania 2310 base caliber, CH 27–70 Q, replacing the former Valjoux movement. Additionally, the dial was redesigned to include both leap year and 24-hour indications – greatly increasing the practicality of the watch.

The model was originally launched with two reference numbers: 3970 and 3971, respectively denoting solid and glazed back. Beginning with serial number 875’000, the first 100 examples featured a snap on case back with applied gold sword indexes and feuille hands. The second series featured a screw-down, solid caseback making it waterproof (thus the addition of “E” for étanche, meaning “waterproof”) with the hallmarks stamped on the outside of the lugs. The third series, like the present example, eliminated the difference between solid and glazed back, instead offering both backs with the watch, thus dropping the ref. 3971. The present example in platinum has a perfectly preserved black gloss dial with diamond indexes, arguably marking the pinnacle of elegance for this timepiece. Offered for the first time at public auction, the present model from 1997 is in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, presentation box, setting pin and ever so important additional solid case back.

ULYSSE NARDIN

An incredibly innovative and impressive yellow gold planetarium wristwatch with guarantee and presentation box

Manufacturer Ulysse Nardin Year 1997

Reference No. 831–22

Movement No. 80.7.153

Case No. 153

Model Name Planetarium Copernicus

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. UN–80, 33 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Ulysse Nardin pin buckle

Dimensions 40mm Diameter

Signed Case, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 20,000–40,000

$23,600–47,200

€21,300–42,700

Accessories

Accompanied by Ulysse Nardin fitted box, Certificate, catalogue and product literature.

The present Planetarium Copernicus is part of Ulysse Nardin’s Trilogy of Time that was originally launched in 1985. The idea came following the meeting between Rolf Schnyder who had just recently bought Ulysse Nardin and Ludwig Oechslin the genius who is more than a watchmaker but a mathematician, philosopher and astronomer. It was during a visit to watchmaker Jörg Spöring – for whom Oechslin was working at the time, that Schnyder saw an astrolabium and asked Oechslin if he could miniaturize an astrolabe clock into wristwatch size. Legend has it that Oechslin asked Schnyder who would buy such a watch to which Schnyder replied “I would”. The rest – as one would say – is history. The Trilogy of Time paid homage to the great astronomers. The first watch was the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei launched in 1985 and directly inspired by the astrolabe clock. The second model was introduced in 1988, the Planetarium Copernicus – the present model, which displays the movement of the planets Mercury, Venus, the Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around the sun. The position of the moon to the Earth is also displayed.

The last watch of the Trilogy was launched in 1992, the Tellerium Johannes Kepler, the dial represents the earth from the vantage point above the North Pole, as well as a variety of astronomical complications including the eclipses of both the sun and moon. The Trilogy of Time models are a living proof of the incredible innovative and forward thinking minds of Schnyder and Oeschlin who made the impossible possible pushing further the boundaries of watchmaking and creating a whole new genre of astronomical wristwatches. The present Planetarium Copernicus is fresh to the market and offered by its original owner.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

A highly rare and attractive platinum minute repeating wristwatch with open skeletonized dial

Manufacturer Audemars Piguet Year 1996

Reference No. 25761 PT

Movement No. 415’384

Case No. D71813 and 10

Model Name Répétition Minutes John Shaeffer

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, cal. 2866, 32 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Audemars Piguet buckle

Dimensions 33.5mm Width and 33mm Length (excluding lugs)

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Accessories

Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d’Origine et de Garantie, Certificate of Authenticity, key, presentation box and outer packaging.

In the early 1930s, Audemars Piguet customized a watch for John Shaeffer, the then vice-chairperson of the Allied Chemical and Dye Corporation, to have the 12 letters of his name used as hour markers. The manufacturer granted his wish, and retrofitted his minute repeater as desired.

In 1992, Audemars Piguet returned to the creation of chiming watches. According to the manufacture itself, this astounding revival was set against an unprecedented backdrop of the quartz crisis. By creating technological breakthroughs, Audemars Piguet solidified the status of Swiss watchmaking by strengthening the industry and and celebrating the complexity of mechanical watches.

In the 1990s, Audemars Piguet launched a special cushion shaped collection under the moniker of the John Shaeffer Collection –this was created as a response to the success of the original John Shaeffer model exhibited during the Audemars Piguet museum opening in 1992. The present watch is housed in a platinum-shaped case very similar in style to the original Shaeffer watch. It chimes with great tone and clarity. This example notably features a beautifully constructed open worked skeletonized dial and movement that is decorated to perfection. Research shows that 45 examples of the reference were made during the production period.

DANIEL ROTH A superb and ultra rare instantaneous pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch

Manufacturer Daniel Roth

Year Circa 1994

Material 18k pink gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 8810, 30 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18k pink gold pin buckle

Dimensions 35mm Width and 38mm Length

Signed Dial signed

Estimate

CHF 30,000–60,000

$35,400–70,800

€32,000–64,000

Daniel Roth’s perpetual calendar 2117 is certainly one of the most exciting watches of independent watchmaking as it brought together two of the greatest horological minds of the epoch to create: Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour. Roth started his eponymous brand in 1988 and rapidly set out on the task of creating a perpetual calendar. To help him he reached out to his fellow Vallée de Joux neighbor and friend Philippe Dufour who had just started his own journey as an independent watchmaker.

The goal the watchmakers wanted to achieve was to create the world’s first instantaneous perpetual calendar wristwatch whereby all indications would jump together precisely at midnight, rather than gradually as seen in more traditional executions. The watch was first announced in Baselworld 1991, with a prototype featuring day and month indications via discs. However, the discs proved to be too heavy and too much energy was required for the discs to jump at the same time. The design was kept and the model became known as the C117 “semi instantaneous” perpetual calendar.

To achieve the original goal the discs were replaced by hands and the instantaneous perpetual calendar was finally launched around 1993–1994. The present example in pink gold with black dial and gilt numerals is most probably a special commission piece as no numbers are featured on the watch, the brand name is not engraved on the case nor movement and the traditional guilloche rotor is replaced by an openwork engraved one with the initials EV.

DANIEL ROTH “Roth/Dufour Perpetual Calendar”

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

An avant garde and ingenious yellow gold wristwatch with retrograde hours and minutes hands, engraved dial representing the map of the Americas, made to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Gerardus Mercator with guarantee and box

Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year Circa 1996

Reference No. 43050

Movement No. 799’037

Case No. 684’410

Model Name Mercator

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1120/2, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 15,000–30,000

$17,700–35,400

€16,000–32,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin fitted wooden box, Certificate of Authenticity and handling instructions, a booklet on the history of Mercator, user’s manual, loupe, hang tag and outer packaging.

Launched in 1994 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the celebrated Flemish/German cartographer’s passing, Gerard Mercator (1512–1594), Vacheron Constantin’s Mercator was an incredibly avant-garde timepiece for its epoch and one of horology’s very first double retrograde indications in a wristwatch. Directly inspired by the double retrograde hands of the Bras en l’Air models of the 30s, the Mercator is one of the timepieces from the 1990s that best represents Vacheron Constantin’s ethos of the time: a mix of high horology and métiers d’art with a dash of audacity.

Originally launched as a limited edition featuring cloisonné enamel dials representing the Americas or Europe/Asia/Africa, the brand soon presented examples with engraved dials featuring the same maps. Housing the extra flat caliber 1120, modified for a bi-retrograde time indication, the hands progress divergently across two arcshaped zones, one graduated from 1 to 12 hours and the other from 0 to 60 minutes. Each hand returns instantly to zero on exactly completing one half day and one hour respectively. The hands themselves are styled like compass legs, reminiscent of the early hand-held compasses such as the ones which Mercator used throughout his life.

The present Mercator in yellow gold and yellow gold engraved dial (justly reminiscent of an old parchment) represents the map of Europe/Asia/Africa as drawn by Mercator. The present watch in overall excellent condition is offered by its original owner and is complete with its full set of accessories.

GÉRALD GENTA A very attractive and rare white gold skeletonized minute repeating perpetual calendar tourbillon wristwatch with leap year indication and moonphase

Manufacturer Gérald Genta Year Circa 1993

Reference No. G4010 4

Case No. 47084

Material 18k white gold

Calibre Automatic, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Gérald Genta déployant clasp

Dimensions 35mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 30,000–60,000

$35,400–70,800

€32,000–64,000

Accessories

Accompanied by additional Gérald Genta strap and platinum deployant clasp.

Gérald Genta did not only change the face of modern watchmaking with his designs for game changing models such as the Royal Oak and the Nautilus but he was also one of the first to create highly complicated timepieces right at the offset of the quartz crisis in the late 1980s. In 1991 he launched his Octagonal collection with models housing a powerful 8 sided case reminiscent of his previous work but with a more daring approach.

The present timepiece is both technically advanced with its use of three highly complicated features such as perpetual calendar with moonphase, tourbillon and minute repeater but also features subtle and elegant details such as an openworked dial enabling one to admire the intricacies of the perpetual calendar mechanism and a lavishly hand engraved movement.

BLANCPAIN An attractive and collectible platinum perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases and leap year indicator

Manufacturer Blancpain Year Circa 1990

Reference No. 5581

Case No. 26

Material Platinum

Calibre Manual, cal. 5581.0, 29 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle Platinum Blancpain pin buckle

Dimensions 34mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 20,000–40,000

$23,600–47,200

€21,300–42,700

In the 1980s–1990s Blancpain was synonymous with fine watchmaking and elegance, two words catapulted the brand in a few short years to the spheres of the most revered, respected and collectible brands. Surfing on the success of their 6 Masterpieces: full calendar with moonphases, perpetual calendar, chronograph, minute repeater and tourbillon, by the end of the 1980s the brand started combining these complications and in the early 1990s the reference 5581 was introduced: the world’s very first serially made perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch (Patek Philippe did not introduce the reference 5004 until 1996).

The present ultra rare platinum example bears number 26, featuring a very legible and well balanced dial and a very discreet split seconds pusher at 10 o’clock. Now better known for the Fifty Fathoms dive watch it is impossible to overlook the importance of Blancpain in the 1980s–1990s in the reshaping of the horological landscape as we know today.

PATEK PHILIPPE

A fascinating, very rare and extremely collectible pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication and 24-hour indication

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1994

Reference No. 5020

Movement No. 3’045’045

Case No. 2’956’228

Material 18K pink gold

Calibre Manual, cal. CH27–70 Q, 24 jewels, stamped with the Geneva seal

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions 37mm Width, 36mm Length

Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate

CHF 80,000–160,000

$94,400–189,000

€85,400–171,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe wooden presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1994 and its subsequent sale on December 1, 1994.

The longest continuously running line of Patek Philippe watches, the perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphases is a cornerstone of the company’s production, with all its representatives being extremely collectible and some of them considered the ultimate tier of Patek Philippe production. Most collectors can easily describe the general aesthetics of the line: three counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, moonphases at 6, two windows at 12, and a round case – traits which are shared among all the five references which encompass the series: 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970 and 5270. And yet, the aforementioned reasoning is if not wrong at the very least incomplete: it fails to take into account present reference 5020, the sixth representative of the line and the one and only NOT sporting a round case, but rather a cushion one. A most unusual design choice, it is reminiscent of the 1920s production of the firm and was not very well received at the time, resulting in the most scarce output among the four modern references (3970, 5970, 5270 and indeed 5020): about 750 examples were made in all metals from 1994 to 2002, with pink gold specimens being only circa 150. The Breguet numerals amplify the vintage charm of the piece, while the case architecture grants it remarkable wrist presence and renders it surprisingly in tune with today’s taste.

While it arguably is one of the most collectible Patek Philippe references in virtue of its looks, inherent scarcity and design uniqueness, its rarity implies that it is a model very seldom seen on the market, and thus the collectors community is still relatively little aware of its importance (and sometimes its existence), making it at the moment one of the most attractive proposition for the foresighted collector of rare and important timepieces.

BREGUET A superb and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with onyx hour and minute track

Manufacturer Breguet Year Circa 1995

Reference No. 3237

Movement No. 1074

Case No. 1112 E

Material 18K yellow gold and onyx

Calibre Manual, cal. 533, 21 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Breguet pin buckle

Dimensions 36mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 25,000–50,000

$29,500–59,000

€26,700–53,400

Breguet, one of horology’s greatest names came back to the market in the 1980s with an immense bang thanks to the arrival of the young Daniel Roth who reinterpreted the famous stylistic elements set out by Abraham-Louis Breguet over 200 years prior. However it was with the purchase of famed movement maker Lemania in 1992 that Breguet could offer what was then and probably still today one of the greatest manual wind chronograph movements (Cal. 2310) –in its wristwatches with the reference 3237.

The present example is more than an incredible chronograph with an iconic design but also has a twist with the use of onyx. The outer track is printed in silver over an onyx section. A small detail that makes all the difference and fully impacts the overall attractive looks of the watch. Adding panache to elegance and flamboyance to classicism. In excellent condition, the present reference Breguet 3237 chronograph is one of an extremely small number to have come to the market with an onyx dial.

PATEK PHILIPPE A fresh to-the-market and possibly unique pink gold minute repeating automatic wristwatch with certificate of origin, additional caseback and purchase receipts, made to commemorate the 150th Anniversary of Patek Philippe

Watch collecting is a field truly filled with excitement and surprises and it is incredible to discover the existence of a model close to 36 years after its production! The present Patek Philippe reference 3979 minute repeater in pink gold is such a piece: it is in fact the only known example in pink gold and is making its auction debut.

In 1989 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the manufacture, Patek Philippe released a series of commemorative and limited edition timepieces to celebrate the important event during a time where special editions were not as common as they are today. Among the impressive lineup of commemorative timepieces introduced including the Caliber 89, Patek Philippe launched two minute repeating timepieces: ref. 3974 further equipped with a perpetual calendar complication and the ref. 3979 such as the present timepiece featuring small seconds. Both references house Patek Philippe’s first fully inhouse minute repeating movement, cal. R27 the firm’s first self-winding minute repeating caliber with a micro-rotor, making them the very first self-winding minute repeating wristwatches by the brand. Reference 3979 furthermore saw the return of the time only minute repeater into the Patek Philippe catalogue. Reference 3979 is housed in a refined 33mm round case with highly architectural lugs reminiscent of what was seen on the vintage Patek minute repeaters, and was available in platinum, white gold, pink gold and yellow gold.

With around 100 pieces made in total and only 24 having appeared publicly, the model is without a doubt one of the rarest modern repeaters made by the brand. Initially, cases for this reference were crafted by the skilled Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Later iterations like the present example featured cases by Geneva-based Atelier Réunis, identifiable by the key hallmark number 28. Interestingly, after the year 2000, all cases made by Atelier Réunis were not stamped with key 28 anymore but rather with the signature oval PPC stamp.

Ref. 3979 Pink Gold “The Only Known”

Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1996

Reference No. 3979

Movement No. 1’904’059

Case No. 2’963’007

Material 18k pink gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. R27 PS, 39 jewels, stamped with the Geneva Seal

Bracelet/Strap Leather

Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Patek Philippe officier style pin buckle

Dimensions 33mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate

CHF 250,000–500,000

$295,000–590,000

€267,000–534,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated 14 June, 1996, additional solid caseback, payment receipts and purchase contract, further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture in 1995 and subsequent sale on May 22, 1996.

The present example, fresh to the market and in overall excellent condition and crystal clear chimes, comes with its Certificate of Origin, second case back and very interestingly with a contact between the buyer and German retailer Wempe stating that the purchase price of Deutsch Mark 436,500 can be paid in 10 installments and is further accompanied by the relevant receipt for each payment. Purchased in June 1996 the watch was fully paid by October 1998.

The importance of the present watch cannot be highlighted enough, not only is it a milestone in Patek Philippe’s history but its rarity – the first ever reference 3979 in pink gold to come to the market and the only one known – make this watch an absolute pinnacle of Patek Philippe collecting.

Ref. 3979 Pink Gold “The Only Known”

PHILIPPE DUFOUR A unique, historic and scholarship-changing platinum wristwatch with double escapement and certificate

To paraphrase Donald Rumsfeld “there are things we know, things we don’t know and things we don’t know that we don’t know”! And the present unique Philippe Duality falls in the latter category.

For decades it was believed that Philippe Dufour had made only 9 Duality models, the present unique example is the scholarship changing unknown 10th example. Delivered in 2014 (close to a decade after it was ordered) the watch was made for one of Dufour’s most important and long standing collectors who had not managed to secure a Duality and for whom Dufour accepted to make a tenth and final piece but this time in a unique configuration of fully brushed platinum case, grey dial, pink gold indexes and hands and a movement finished to the nth degree in pure Dufour style but devoid of any engraving or inscription. The Certificate of Origin confirms the unique status of the watch.

The Duality was introduced in 1996. Dufour’s second wristwatch was, like the Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch, a world premiere: the world’s first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement (thus its name) featuring two independent balance wheels compensated with a central differential gear. Having two balances connected in this way enables greater accuracy as it allows the balances to average out their rates. If one runs slightly faster and the other a bit slower, the rate variations would cancel each other out. Furthermore, this system produces less variation across all different positions.

PHILIPPE DUFOUR A unique, historic and scholarship-changing platinum wristwatch with double escapement and certificate

Manufacturer Philippe Dufour

Year 2014

Movement No. 10

Model Name Duality

Material Brushed platinum

Calibre Manual, cal. 10, 40 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Alligator

Clasp/Buckle Brushed platinum Philippe Dufour pin buckle

Dimensions 34mm Diameter

Signed Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate

CHF 800,000–1,600,000

$944,000–1,890,000

€854,000–1,710,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Philippe Dufour International Guarantee and Certificate of Origin confirming this piece is unique.

PHILIPPE DUFOUR A unique, historic and scholarship-changing platinum wristwatch with double escapement and certificate

Dufour’s inspiration for the Duality came from a school watch with double balance wheel featured in the Time Museum’s catalogue –and coincidentally, corresponding to the same school that Dufour graduated from, the Vallée de Joux Watchmaking School. This watch had a single gear train delivering power to two balance wheels through a differential. After having miniaturized the Grande & Petite Sonnerie movement to fit inside a wristwatch, Dufour tackled the task of shrinking the differential into a caliber that could be housed within a wristwatch. The final result was nothing short of extraordinary, as he managed to shrink the differential mechanism to the size of a matchstick head, allowing the movement to feature two large balances beating in unison.

Dufour had planned on making 25 Duality timepieces, however, due to the complexity of making, assembling, and adjusting the movement, added to the fact that the market did not at the time grasp the importance and relevance of the timepiece, it was believed that he only made 9 and was no longer taking orders. Dufour’s Duality is in fact a monumental achievement in wristwatch history. So important was its launch that it would inspire FrançoisPaul Journe to revisit his own dual-escapement design – the Resonance, which he first attempted years earlier within a pocket watch. Four years after the Duality’s introduction, Journe would introduce the world’s first Resonance wristwatch.

Fresh to the market and offered by the original owner, the present unique Duality is one of the most important pieces of independent horological history.

INDEX

54 A. Lange & Sohne 101.026 Lange 1

26 A. Lange & Sohne 701.007 Tourbillon Pour le Mérite

8 Alain Silberstein KM09AS Klub Medio “Dragon Cloisonné”

19 Andersen Geneve 360 46 Andersen Geneve 369

6 Audemars Piguet 25881 John Shaeffer

23 Audemars Piguet 25720/002 Star Wheel 37 Audemars Piguet 25643

43 Audemars Piguet 25686PT

53 Audemars Piguet 25761 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

57 Audemars Piguet PT Répétition Minutes John Schaeffer

4 Blancpain 5335–1418 16 Blancpain World time Prototype 44 Blancpain

61 Blancpain 5581

5 Breguet 3450

Breguet 3040BA Serpentine 49 Breguet 3617 63 Breguet 3237

Cartier 2332 Pasha

Cartier Crash 30 Chopard 16/1860/2 L.U.C. 1860 34 Corum 13.850.56 Golden Bridge 12 Daniel Roth C187 Tourbillon Regulateur Double Face 24 Daniel Roth 32 Daniel Roth C317 Papillon

50 Daniel Roth 2147

58 Daniel Roth

40 Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen “The Oval” 2 Ebel 8134901 15 Ebel 8134901 Sport Classique Chronograph

Ebel 3136901

F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoire d’Egalité

33 Franck Muller Janus

Franck Muller 2870 NADF Chronographe Double Face 9 Gérald Genta G.3149.7 Gefica 38 Gérald Genta GGM1 “Grande and Petite Sonnerie” Number 1 60 Gérald Genta G4010 4 35 Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon sous trois Ponts d’or 1 IWC 5251 Portofino

IWC 3510 Compass Watch

IWC 3755 Da Vinci

Minerva C722 Phoebus

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar 3 Patek Philippe 3940J 18 Patek Philippe 3710/1A–001 Nautilus “Comet” 25 Patek Philippe 3970EG 28 Patek Philippe 5070G–001 39 Patek Philippe 3450 “Padellone” 41 Patek Philippe 3800/1J Nautilus 52 Patek Philippe 3974 55 Patek Philippe 3970E 62 Patek Philippe 5020 64 Patek Philippe 3979 65 Philippe Dufour Duality

Roger Dubuis H40

Rolex 16599SAAEC Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow” 10 Ulysse Nardin 709–20 Jacquemart Forgerons

56 Ulysse Nardin 831–22 Planetarium Copernicus

22 Urban Jürgensen Reference 3

11 Urwerk UR–102 UR–102

7 Vacheron Constantin 43032

48 Vacheron Constantin 43032

59 Vacheron Constantin 43050 Mercator

13 Vianney Halter Antiqua

SALE INFORMATION

Auction & Viewing Location

Hotel President, a Luxury Collection Hotel Quai Wilson 47 1201 Geneva, Switzerland

Auction

Friday 8 November 2024, 2pm

Under the aegis of Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire

Viewing

Wednesday, 6 November, 10am–7pm Thursday, 7 November, 9am–6pm Friday, 8 November, 9am–1pm Saturday, 9 November, 9am–1pm Sunday, 10 November, 9am–1pm

Sale Designation

When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080524 or Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980–1999.

Absentee and Telephone Bids

Tel +41 22 317 8181

Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com

Auction License 2013224

Auctioneers

Jeremiah Evarts

Sarah Krueger

Rebekah Bowling

Blake Koh

Jaime Israni

Isabella Proia

Henry Highley

Rebecca Tooby-Desmond

Susanna Brockman

Louise Simpson

Aurel Bacs

Benoit Repellin

Marcello de Marco

Clara Kessi

Tiffany To

Jonathan Crockett

Thomas Perazzi

Danielle So Gertrude Wong

Catalogues catalogues@phillips.com, $50/50 CHF/£35

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Watch Department

Geneva

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Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com

Photographer Jess Hoffman contact@jesshoffman.ch

New York

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Senior International Specialist Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com

Head of Sale,

Senior International Specialist Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com

Consultant Jaclyn Li +1 617 697 5030 jli@phillips.com

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Hong Kong

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International Business

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China

Consultant

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Taiwan

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Consultant

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Advisory Board

Jean-Claude Biver

Henry Chan

Helmut Crott

Ike Honigstock

Stephen Charles Li

David Lou

TK Mak

Auro Montanari

Jason Singer

Kenneth Wong

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE PURCHASE 30 BERKELEY SQUARE LONDON W1J 6EX MONDAY–FRIDAY 10AM–5PM

GREUBEL FORSEY Titanium “Balancier Convexe S2”

Edition of 66, circa 2022

Paddle Number

Please return this form by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com at least 24 hours before the sale. Please read carefully the information in the right column and note that it is important that you indicate whether you are applying to bid as an individual or on behalf of a company.

Please select the type of bid you wish to make with this form (please select one): In-person Absentee Bidding Telephone Bidding

Please indicate in what capacity you will be bidding (please select one): As a private individual On behalf of a company

Phone number to call at the time of sale (for Phone Bidding only)

7 rue de la Confédération, 1204 Geneva phillipswatches.com +41 22 317 8181

bidsgeneva@phillips.com

• Private Purchases: Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identification and recent proof of address will be required.

• Company Purchases: If you are buying under a business entity, we require a copy of government-issued identification (such as the certificate of incorporation) as well as proof of owners (including ultimate beneficial owners) and directors to verify the status of the company. This should be accompanied by an official document confirming the company’s EU VAT registration number, if applicable.

• Conditions Of Sale: All bids are placed and executed, and all lots are sold and purchased, subject to the Conditions of Sale printed in the catalogue. Please read them carefully before placing a bid. Your attention is drawn to Paragraph 4 of the Conditions of Sale.

• If you cannot attend the sale, we can execute bids confidentially on your behalf.

• Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or Buyer’s Premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The Buyer’s Premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 27% of the hammer price up to and including CHF1,000,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF1,000,000 up to and including CHF6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF6,000,000.

• “Buy” or unlimited bids will not be accepted. Alternative bids can be placed by using the word “OR” between lot numbers.

• For absentee bids, indicate your maximum limit for each lot, excluding the Buyer’s Premium and any applicable VAT. Your bid will be executed at the lowest price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. On no reserve lots, in the absence of other bids, your bid will be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount specified, if less than 50% of the low estimate.

• Your bid must be submitted in the currency of the sale and may be rounded down to the nearest amount consistent with the auctioneer’s bidding increments.

• If we receive identical bids, the first bid received will take precedence.

Please complete the following section for telephone and absentee bids only

Lot Number Brief Description

Maximum Swiss Francs price* In Consecutive Order Absentee Bids Only

* Excluding Buyer’s Premium and VAT

Bidding Language (for Phone Bidding only) Signature

• Arranging absentee and telephone bids is a free service provided by us to prospective buyers. While we will exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for errors relating to execution of your bids except in cases of wilful misconduct. Agreement to bid by telephone must be confirmed by you promptly in writing or by fax. Telephone bid lines may be recorded.

• Please submit your bids to the Bid Department by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com or by fax at +41 22 317 8180 at least 24 hours before the sale. You will receive confirmation by email within one business day. To reach the Bid Department by phone please call +41 22 317 8181.

• Payment for lots can be made by credit card (up to CHF100,000) using Visa, American Express or MasterCard, or by wire transfer. Please note that credit cards are subject to a surcharge.

• Lots cannot be collected until payment has cleared and all charges have been paid.

• By signing this Bid Form, you acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with Phillips’s Privacy Policy as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com.

• Phillips’s premises and sale and exhibition venues may be subject to video surveillance and recording. Telephone calls (e.g., telephone bidding) may also be recorded. We may process that information in accordance with our Privacy Policy.

Please tick this box to receive emails about upcoming sales, exhibitions, and special events offered by members of the Phillips group, as referenced in our Privacy Policy available on our website at www.phillips.com, where you may also update your email preferences or unsubscribe at any time.

Geneva Guide for Prospective Buyers

Buying at Auction

The following pages are designed to offer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staff will be happy to assist you.

Conditions of Sale

The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller. Bidders should also read the Important Notices immediately following this Guide for Prospective Buyers.

Buyer’s Premium and VAT

Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or Buyer’s Premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The Buyer’s Premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 27% of the hammer price up to and including CHF1,000,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF1,000,000 up to and including CHF6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF6,000,000.Value added tax (VAT) of 8.1% is payable on the hammer price and the Buyer’s Premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. The purchase price payable for any lot is the sum of the hammer price plus the Buyer’s Premium plus VAT.

1 Prior to Auction

Catalogue Subscriptions

If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +41 22 317 8181, +44 20 7318 4010 or +1 212 940 1240.

Pre-Sale Estimates

Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, offer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where ‘Estimate on Request’ appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the Buyer’s Premium or VAT.

Pre-Sale Estimates in US Dollars and Euros

Although the sale is conducted in Swiss francs, the pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogues may also be printed in US dollars and/or euros. Since the exchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date of auction, you should treat estimates in US dollars or euros as a guide only.

Catalogue Entries

Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work of art, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the work in art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions of the property set forth in the catalogue entry are approximate.

Condition of Lots

Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in the catalogue) does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staff are not professional restorers. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of significant value, that you retain your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding. Moreover, condition

reports are not exhaustive and may not specify all mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate bases(s) or dome. The absence of a condition report or the absence of a reference to damage in the catalogue does not imply that the lot is in good condition, working order or free from restoration or repair.

Pre-Auction Viewing

Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists are available to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment.

Symbol Key

The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue.

O Guaranteed Property

Lots designated with the symbol O are the subject of a minimum price guarantee. In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless of the outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. This guarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party.

♦ Third Party Guarantee

Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the financial risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee. Because the sums involved can be significant Phillips may choose to share the burden of that financial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk by committing in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot for an agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In this way the third-party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching the amount of the minimum price guarantee.

In return for underwriting or sharing this risk Phillips will usually compensate the third party. The compensation may be in the form of a fixed fee or an amount calculated by reference to the hammer price of the lot. If the third-party guarantor is the successful bidder Phillips will report the purchase price net of any fees paid to the third-party guarantor.

Δ Property in which Phillips has an Ownership Interest

Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest.

• No Reserve

Unless indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are offered subject to a reserve. A reserve is the confidential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate.

∑ Endangered Species

Lots with this symbol have been identified at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale.

Ж Property Subject to US Import Tariffs

Lots with this symbol indicate that the Property may be subject to additional tariffs upon importation into the United States of America. See paragraph 12 of the Conditions of Sale.

2 Bidding in the Sale

Bidding at Auction

Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of governmentissued identification will be required, as will an original signature and recent proof of address. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference.

Undisclosed agreements between bidders to bid or abstain from bidding on lots are illegal. Please note that Phillips monitors its sales and bidding records to ensure that bidding is transparent and fair and will take appropriate action in the event of any suspected breach of this requirement.

Bidding in Person

To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufficient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staff member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk.

Bidding by Telephone

If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multilingual staff members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the Buyer’s Premium and VAT, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone.

Online Bidding

If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe Flash Player. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then preregister by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The first time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafter you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate firewalls may cause difficulties for online bidders.

Absentee Bids

If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confidential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the Buyer’s Premium and VAT. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence.

Employee Bidding

Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the huissier or the auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’), may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures.

Bidding Increments

Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the Auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment.

Conditions of Sale

As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. By registering for the Auction bidders accept the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or Auctioneer's announcements.

Interested Parties Announcement

In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the beneficiary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot.

Consecutive and Responsive Bidding

The Auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The Auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders.

No Reserve Lots

If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold.

4 After the Auction Payment

Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements have been agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in Swiss francs by wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. Neither cash nor cheques will be accepted.

Credit Cards

As a courtesy to clients who have bid or bought in Phillips auctions previously, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply.

Collection

It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. After the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises.

Loss or Damage

Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction.

Transport and Shipping

CHF50 to CHF1,000 by CHF50s

CHF1,000 to CHF2,000 by CHF100s

CHF2,000 to CHF3,000 by CHF200s

CHF3,000 to CHF5,000 by CHF200s, 500, 800 (i.e., CHF4,200, 4,500, 4,800)

CHF5,000 to CHF10,000 by CHF500s

CHF10,000 to CHF20,000 by CHF1,000s

CHF20,000 to CHF30,000 by CHF2,000s

CHF30,000 to CHF50,000 by CHF2,000s, 5,000, 8,000

CHF50,000 to CHF100,000 by CHF5,000s

CHF100,000 to CHF200,000 by CHF10,000s above CHF200,000 at the Auctioneer’s discretion

The Auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.

As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling or shipping services directly. However, we will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by you in order to facilitate the packing, handling and shipping of property purchased at Phillips. Please refer to Paragraph 7 of the Conditions of Sale for more information.

Export and Import

Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export the property from Switzerland or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licences or permits. The denial of any required licence or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot.

Buyers should note that the export of items offered for sale in this Auction to certain countries (including Russia and Belarus) may be prohibited pursuant to Government sanctions and other regulatory measures in force from time to time.

Regulated Species

Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a licence or certificate prior to exportation and additional licences or certificates upon importation to the US or to any country within or outside the European Union (EU). Please note that the ability to obtain an export licence or certificate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import licence or certificate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licences or certificates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientific analysis regarding continent of origin and confirmation the object is more than 100 years old. We have not obtained a scientific analysis on any lot prior to sale and cannot indicate whether elephant ivory in a particular lot is African or Asian elephant. Buyers purchase these lots at their own risk and will be responsible for the costs of obtaining any scientific analysis or other report required in connection with their proposed import of such property into the US.

With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identification and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the object qualifies as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certifying the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualified independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot.

Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species.

Privacy

Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws.

Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be filmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications.

Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.

Important Notices

Condition

Phillips makes no representation or warranty that any watch or clock is in working order, and no catalogue description (appearing in the catalogue or accessed via a QR Code) of any lot should be construed as so stating. Prospective buyers are advised to have watches and clocks checked by a competent watchmaker or watch or clock restorer before use. As a service to prospective buyers, we may provide a description of the condition of watches and clocks in the catalogue entry (appearing in the catalogue or accessed via a QR Code) including references to defects and repairs, and furnish a condition report, but such information is not necessarily complete and may not specify all mechanical replacements, restorations or defects. Please note that Phillips does not guarantee the authenticity of any individual components parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since prior repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Nor does Phillips warrant that watches in water- resistant cases are currently water-resistant. Prospective buyers should inspect all watches and clocks prior to the auction to evaluate the condition of property offered for sale.

Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species

Some of the watches offered for sale in the catalogue may have bands made of endangered or protected animal materials, such as alligator or crocodile, and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained in Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers, these lots are marked with ∑ in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle.

Authenticity Certificates

Certain manufacturers do not issue certificates of authenticity, and Phillips has no obligation to furnish a buyer with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer, except when specifically noted in the catalogue. Unless Phillips is satisfied that we should cancel the sale in accordance with the Authorship Warranty provided in the Conditions of Sale, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds for cancellation of the sale.

Conditions of Sale

The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set out below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips Fine Watches Limited (Geneva branch) registered in Geneva under number 380214667 (“Phillips”) and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale, the Important Notices immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers and the Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding.

1 Introduction

Each lot in this catalogue is offered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Important Notices (c) supplements to this catalogue including information accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue, and (d) other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction.

By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty. These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer.

2 Phillips As Agent

Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company affiliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an affiliated company may have a legal, beneficial or financial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise.

3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property

Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis.

(a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) as consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made.

(b) Each lot offered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the lot prior to bidding and have satisfied themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description.

(c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type which means that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they are inspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) may make reference to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may have other faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identification purposes only and cannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to the actual condition of lots.

(d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of fact

but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time by Phillips at our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our affiliated companies shall be liable for any difference between the pre-sale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale.

4 Bidding at

Auction

(a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips.

(b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’s behalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Absentee Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate the maximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the Buyer’s Premium and value added tax (VAT). The huissier or auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’) will not accept an instruction to execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence.

(c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Telephone Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confirmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately after such bid is accepted by the Auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation.

(d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online, bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction. Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids through Phillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid button on the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge and agree that bids so submitted are final and may not under any circumstances be amended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids are placed, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘floor’ bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In the event that an online bid and a ‘floor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘floor’ bid may take precedence at the Auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by the Auctioneer, as the Auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in a whole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide for Prospective Buyers.

(e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges.

(f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, bidders represent, warrant and confirm that (i) unless otherwise expressly agreed in writing with Phillips prior to the auction, they are bidding on their own behalf and not on behalf of anyone else (ii) they will be paying the Purchase Price from their own funds (iii) that their participation in the auction and payment of the Purchase Price is lawful and shall not breach any applicable sanctions laws, (iv) they are not resident or located in a sanctioned jurisdiction including but not limited to Russia, Belarus, Iran and North Korea; and (v) any bids placed by them, or on their behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are not otherwise in breach of any applicable law, Government sanctions and other regulatory measures in force from time to time.

(g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct.

(h) * Premium Lots

Lots with the symbol [*] are Premium Lots. To bid on Premium Lots prospective buyers must complete and satisfy Phillips’ Premium Lot pre-registration procedure no later than 24 hours before the start of the auction session in which the Lot is offered. Premium Lot paddles will be issued to bidders who complete and satisfy the Premium Lot pre-registration procedure. The Auctioneer will only accept bids from Premium Lot paddles in respect of Premium Lots. Please contact the department organizing the auction for further details.

(i) Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures.

5 Conduct of the Auction

(a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is offered subject to a reserve, which is the confidential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction.

(b) The Auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot, reoffer a lot for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the Auctioneer. If any dispute arises after the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The Auctioneer may accept bids made by a company affiliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot.

(c) The Auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and in increments he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on any lot, the Auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold.

(d) The sale will be conducted in Swiss francs and payment is due in Swiss francs. For the benefit of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue may be shown in US dollars and/or euros and, if so, will reflect approximate exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in US dollars or euros should be treated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it is done so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any errors in currency conversion calculation.

(e) Subject to the Auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder accepted by the Auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks the acceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between the seller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set forth in Paragraph 7 below.

(f) If a lot is not sold, the Auctioneer will announce that it has been ‘passed’, ‘withdrawn’, ‘returned to owner’ or ‘bought-in’.

(g) Any post-auction sale of lots offered at auction shall incorporate these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction.

6 Purchase Price and Payment

(a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, the Buyer’s Premium, plus any applicable value added tax (VAT) (the ‘Purchase Price’). The Buyer’s Premium is 27% of the hammer price up to and including CHF1,000,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF1,000,000 up to and including CHF6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF6,000,000. Phillips reserves the right to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more third parties for assisting in the sale of property offered and sold at auction.

(b) VAT of 8.1% is payable on the hammer price plus Buyer’s Premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of VAT.

Payment is due immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot.

Interest will be charged on late payment at the rate of 12% per annum.

(d) If you are a new client bidding online in our Auction for the first time, as a security measure you will be required to pay for your lots by wire transfer only. This is our standard policy for all new online buyers.

As a courtesy to clients who have bid or bought in our sales previously, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Poste Carte, Maestro, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply.

(e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identification has been provided, and any earlier release does not affect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price.

7 Collection of Property

(a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfied such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including providing information and documentation we require to satisfy our customer due diligence and verification checks for Know Your Customer compliance purposes and completing any antimoney laundering, anti-terrorism financing and sanctions checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfied all of the above conditions, he or she should contact us at +41 22 317 8181 to arrange for collection of purchased property.

(b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. After the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days after the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss or damage to property.

(c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling, insurance or shipping services. We will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer, whether or not recommended by Phillips, in order to facilitate the packing, handling, insurance and shipping of property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. Property will be collected by the buyer at the point it is released in the sale location by Phillips to the buyer or to a third-party shipper acting for the buyer. The buyer is responsible for paying any import duties and local taxes payable to import the Property to its final destination.

(d) Phillips will require presentation of government-issued identification prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative.

8 Failure to Collect Purchases

(a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of CHF10 per day for each uncollected lot. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full.

(b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our affiliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction.

9 Remedies for Non-Payment

(a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one or more of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips‘s premises or elsewhere at the buyer’s sole risk and expense; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any partial payment of the Purchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer or render such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% per annum from the date payment became due until the date the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (v) subject to notification of the buyer, exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct our affiliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such notice arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amount owed to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies after the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon; (vi) resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for less than the original hammer price and Buyer’s Premium for that lot, the buyer will remain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii) commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and Buyer’s Premium for that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) set off the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts which we or any of our affiliated companies may owe the buyer in any other transactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal costs; or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate.

(b) The buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to exercise a lien over the buyer’s property which is in our possession upon notification by any of our affiliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment. Phillips will notify the buyer of any such lien. The buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips, upon notification by any of our affiliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment, to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our affiliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an affiliated company by way of pledge.

(c) If the buyer is in default of payment, the buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to instruct any of our affiliated companies in possession of the buyer’s property to deliver the property by way of pledge as the buyer’s agent to a third party instructed by Phillips to hold the property on our behalf as security for the payment of the Purchase Price and any other amount due and, no earlier than 30 days from the date of written notice to the buyer, to sell the property in such manner and for such consideration as can reasonably be obtained on a forced sale basis and to apply the proceeds to any amount owed to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies after the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon.

10 Rescission by Phillips

Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale.

11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licences and Permits

Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export a lot from Switzerland or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientific analysis of continent of origin and confirmation the object is more than 100 years old.

With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identification and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the item qualifies as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certify the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object containing endangered species into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualified independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot.

It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any necessary export, import and endangered species licences or permits. Failure to obtain a licence or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species.

Export, Import, Sales and/or Use Taxes

Buyers should note that they are responsible for all charges, duties and taxes related to the exportation and importation of lots shipped by them or shipped on their behalf, including any applicable Sales and/or Use Taxes which may be due on importing the property to the United States.

Export and Import Bans and Restrictions

12. US Imports Customs Tariffs

Buyers intending to import property into the United States of America should note that US Customs may charge an additional import duty upon the importation of (i) products manufactured or created in mainland China and (ii) printed materials (including photographs, prints, lithographs, books and designs) printed in the UK or Germany.

Phillips will mark with a symbol lots which may be subject to additional US import tariffs, where this is known to us. Please note, however, that any such markings are done by us only as a convenience to bidders. Phillips does not accept liability for errors including failing to mark lots accurately or for the absence of any marking.

13 Privacy

(a) You acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with our privacy policy from time to time as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com.

(b) Our privacy policy sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data (including for example the provision of auction, private sale and related services; the performance and enforcement of these terms and conditions; the carrying out of identity and credit checks; keeping you informed about upcoming auctions, exhibitions and special events; and generally where reasonably necessary in the management and operation of our business); (iii) the lawful bases on which we rely in undertaking our processing of your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws.

(c) Phillips premises and sale and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes and will be filmed during the auction for simultaneous live broadcast on our and third party websites and applications. By remaining in these areas, you acknowledge that you may be photographed, filmed and recorded and grant your permission for your likeness and voice to be included in such recordings. If you do not wish to be photographed or filmed or appear in such recordings, please speak to a member of Phillips staff.

Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g. telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com.

14 Limitation of Liability

(a) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our affiliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot.

(b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 14, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot.

(c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and fitness for purpose, are specifically excluded by Phillips, our affiliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law.

(d) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in sub-paragraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterised as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law.

(e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our affiliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions.

15 Copyright

The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it.

16 General

(a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements.

(b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specified at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notified by them in writing to Phillips.

(c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives.

(d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and effect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part.

17 Law and Jurisdiction

(a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with Swiss law. (b) For the benefit of Phillips, all bidders and sellers agree that the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva, Switzerland are to have exclusive jurisdiction to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply, subject to appeal to the Federal Tribunal. All parties agree that Phillips shall retain the right to bring proceedings in any court other than the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva.

(c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by Swiss law, the law of the place of service or the law of the jurisdiction where proceedings are instituted at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips.

Authorship Warranty

Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in BOLD or CAPITALIZED type for a period of five years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below and the Important Notices set out in this catalogue immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers.

(a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record ( i.e. , the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gift from the original buyer, heirs, successors, beneficiaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue (including descriptions accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) states that there is a conflict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientific methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot; or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry.

(b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us.

(c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notified Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the salesroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising after the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above.

(d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our affiliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.