THE NEW YORK WATCH AUCTION: X
8–9 JUNE 2024
THE NEW YORK WATCH AUCTION: X
8–9 JUNE 2024
Auction & Viewing Location
432 Park Avenue, New York 10022
Auction
Session 1, lots 1–75
Saturday, 8 June at 10am
Session 2, lots 76–151
Sunday, 9 June at 10am
Viewing
5–7 June, 10am to 7pm
Sale Designation
When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as NY080124 or The New York Watch Auction: X.
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Tel +1 212 940 1228
Fax +1 212 940 1749
bidsnewyork@phillips.com
Advisory Board
Jean-Claude Biver
Henry Chan
Helmut Crott
Ike Honigstock
Stephen Charles Li
David Lou
TK Mak
Auro Montanari
Jason Singer
Kenneth Wong
OUR TEAM WATCHES
SENIOR EXECUTIVES
EDWARD DOLMAN
Executive Chairman and Chief Executive Officer +1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com © Brigitte Lacombe
CHEYENNE WESTPHAL
Global Chairwoman +44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
SENIOR CONSULTANTS
AUREL BACS
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 abacs@ phillipsbacsrusso.com
AMANDA LO IACONO
Deputy CEO +1 212 940 1278 aloiacono@phillips.com
LIVIA RUSSO
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@ phillipsbacsrusso.com
EXECUTIVES
JONATHAN CROCKETT
Chairman, Asia +852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
JEAN-PAUL ENGELEN
President, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1390 jpengelen@phillips.com
JAMIE NIVEN
Senior Advisor to the CEO +1 917 880 2532 jniven@phillips.com
DEREK COLLINS
Senior Consultant to Chairman’s Office, Asia +852 2318 2000 derekcollins@phillips.com
DEPUTY CHAIRMEN & CHAIRWOMEN
ROBERT MANLEY
Deputy Chairman, Worldwide Co-Head of Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1358 rmanley@phillips.com
JEREMIAH EVARTS
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +1 917 304 4329 jevarts@phillips.com
PAUL BOUTROS
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor
+1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
PETER SUMNER
Deputy Chairman, Europe, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com
CARY LEIBOWITZ
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Editions +1 212 940 1222 cleibowitz@phillips.com
ALEXANDRE GHOTBI
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe and Middle East +41 22 317 81 81 aghotbi@phillips.com
MIETY HEIDEN
Deputy Chairwoman, Head of Private Sales +44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
VANESSA HALLETT
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Head of Photographs +1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com
KELLY TROESTER
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Co-Head of Editions +1 212 940 1221 ktroester@phillips.com
JAMES MARKS
Deputy Chairman, Watches, International Head of Perpetual +41 79 563 86 33 jmarks@phillips.com
SCOTT NUSSBAUM
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1354 snussbaum@phillips.com
CINDY YEN
Deputy Chairwoman, General Manager, Taiwan +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
VIVIAN PFEIFFER
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Head of Business Development, Americas +1 212 940 1392 vpfeiffer@phillips.com
KEVIE YANG
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +1 212 940 1254 kyang@phillips.com
MARIANNE HOET
Deputy Chairwoman, Europe, Senior Specialist, Modern & Contemporary Art +32 3257 3026 mhoet@phillips.com
THOMAS PERAZZI
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@ phillips.com
BACS & RUSSO
AUREL BACS
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 abacs@ phillipsbacsrusso.com
LIVIA RUSSO
Senior Consultant +41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@ phillipsbacsrusso.com
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR
MYRIAM CHRISTINAZ
International Business Director +41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com
DIGITAL MARKETING
ARTHUR TOUCHOT
International Head of Digital Strategy +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
GENEVA
ALEXANDRE GHOTBI
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe and Middle East +41 22 317 81 81 aghotbi@phillips.com
CLARA KESSI
Client Relations Manager +41 22 317 81 88 ckessi@ phillipsbacsrusso.com
ATHENA BRAS
Administrative Assistant +41 22 317 96 65 abras@ phillipsbacsrusso.com
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
PANSY KU
International Business Development Director +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
LOGAN BAKER
Senior Editorial Manager
+1 346 445 0068 lbaker@phillips.com
LUCIE DELAPORTE
Social Media Manager +41 22 317 9668 ldelaporte@phillips.com
TIFFANY TO Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
DIANA ORTEGA Head of Strategic Partnership & Events, Watches, Europe +41 22 317 81 87 dortega@phillips.com
ARTHUR TOUCHAIS
Video Producer atouchais@phillips.com
MARCELLO DE MARCO
Specialist and Business Development Associate +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
EDOARDO BOLLA
Associate Specialist +41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
CLEMENT FINET
Specialist
Perpetual Gstaad +41 79 173 03 45 cfinet@phillips.com
REGIONAL DIRECTOR
NATHALIE MONBARON
Regional Director, Business Development Director +41 22 317 81 83 nmonbaron@phillips.com
HONG KONG
THOMAS PERAZZI
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@ phillips.com
SINGAPORE
ZI YONG HO
Senior International Specialist +65 9820 3837 ziyongho@phillips.com
TAIWAN
CINDY YEN
Deputy Chairwoman, General Manager, Taiwan +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
PAUL BOUTROS
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor
+1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
GERTRUDE WONG
Head of Sale, Specialist +852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@ phillips.com
TOKYO
GENKI SAKAMOTO
Senior Specialist Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
ALVIN LAU Specialist +852 2318 2035 alvinlau@phillips.com
JONATHAN SIU Specialist, Perpetual +852 2318 2075 jonathansiu@phillips.com
KAZ FUJIMOTO
Senior Consultant +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
LEON HUANG
Regional Representative +886 2 2758 5505 lhuang@phillips.com
THAILAND CHINA
RIKA DILA
Senior Consultant +66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com
DOUG ESCRIBANO
Senior International Specialist
+1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
DANIEL SUM Consultant +852 6887 5110 danielsum@phillips.com
ISABELLA PROIA
Head of Sale, International Specialist +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
JACLYN LI Consultant +1 617 697 5030 jli@phillips.com
YUNYI XU
Cataloguer +852 2318 2074 yunyixu@phillips.com
LYDIA IP Cataloguer +852 2318 2015 lydiaIp@phillips.com
JAMES MARKS
Deputy Chairman, Watches, International Head of Perpetual +41 79 563 86 33 jmarks@phillips.com
LONDON
CHRISTOPHER YOUÉ Specialist
+44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com
NEW YORK ZURICHWELCOME
By Paul Boutros and Isabella ProiaQuality transcends eras, fashion trends, and hype. Entering not only our 10th year of operation as Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, but also our 10th live auction in New York, our commitment to offering highest quality timepieces has been the central focus of our international team since our founding in 2014.
The incredibly diverse selection of approximately 150 timepieces contained herein is one of which we are especially proud. Spanning wristwatches, pocket watches, and clocks from Swiss, British, German, and Japanese makers, they are, in most cases, the very best of the best from the eras in which they were produced. Our selection, dating to as early as 1880, includes some of the most impressive, important, and exquisite timepieces ever made.
With its “Extra Special”-engraved movement and Geneva Observatory-rated performance, we’re thrilled to offer an open-face Patek Philippe pocket chronometer commissioned by Henry Graves, Jr. in 1920. Engraved with his famous motto, “Esse Quam Videri”, Latin for “To Be Rather than to Seem”, this watch can be considered as the peak of precision chronometry worthy of Graves’ ownership.
We’re honored to have been entrusted with the sale of a massive Charles Frodsham clock watch measuring 75mm in diameter. Made in 1917, it combines a perpetual calendar, tourbillon, minute repeater, and grande sonnerie, and is one of the finest watches ever made by the illustrious British firm.
Another museum-quality timepiece we’re thrilled to offer is a single-axle Mystery Clock, or “Pendule Mystérieuse” made by Cartier. Made of gold, jade, onyx, turquoise, lapis, and rock crystal and lavishly embellished with diamond-set hour markers and dragon-shaped hands, it is an ultimate and rather magical object of horological art, made no less serendipitous as we celebrate the Year of the Dragon.
From more recent times, it is our pleasure to offer a most probably unique Philippe Dufour Duality as the top lot in our sale. Fresh-to-market and the only example known of nine made with two dial and hand sets, the Duality’s launch in 1996 was a monumental achievement in wristwatch history as the world’s first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement.
All are masterpieces of design and watchmaking by their respective makers, possessing the kind of timeless appeal that extends across generations.
Quality. It’s what we stand for, what we set our sights on, and what we strive to deliver. We hope you enjoy this selection of “quality” timepieces, and look forward to welcoming you at one of our many preview exhibitions around the world, and in New York on June 8 and 9.
THE NEW YORK WATCH AUCTION: X
SESSION 1
8 JUNE 2024, 10AM LOTS 1–75
PATEK PHILIPPE An attractive gilt brass world time wall clock with associated Patek Philippe ephemera
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 2000s
Model Name World Time
Material Gilt brass
Calibre Quartz
Dimensions 400mm diameter
Signed Dial signed
Estimate
$3,000–6,000 •
€2,800–5,600
The present clock was modelled on Patek Philippe World Time reference 5110, and according to our research was distributed to the most distinguished Patek Philippe retailers as marketing support for the model’s launch. Offered in used but attractive condition and accompanied with an operation manual, the present lot is a one-of-a-kind chance for Patek Philippe collectors to possess a timepiece that is great in size and substance. It is further accompanied with the following highly desirable set of Patek Philippe ephemera:
Patek Philippe Limoges Ashtray, Gold and Red Enamel White Flower Design, with outer packaging, Collection 2020
Patek Philippe Limoges Ashtray, Nielloed Silver Case Design, with outer packaging, Collection 2021
Patek Philippe Blue Tie, New York 2017
Patek Philippe Red and Blue Tie, Patek Philippe 175
Patek Philippe Rouiller Silk Tie, 2020
Patek Philippe Marron Silk Tie, 2020
Patek Philippe Grey Silk Tie (no date)
Patek Philippe Pocket Square
Patek Philippe Pair of Gloves
Patek Philippe Polish Cloth
LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
2. ROLEX A popular and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 2018
Reference No. 116710BLNR
Case No. 21N2N293
Model Name GMT-Master II “Batman”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$8,000–12,000 •
€7,500–11,300
Accessories
Includes two extra links. Accompanied by original hangtag, seal, retailer-stamped guarantee card dated January 24th, 2018, leather wallet, warranty booklet, instruction manual, inner and outer presentation box.
“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me.” —Batman, Batman Begins , 2005.
Though the film Batman Begins premiered in 2005, it wasn’t until 2013 that Rolex’s seeming tribute to the Dark Knight of Gotham was released. Instantly captivated by the neverbefore-seen black and blue bezel color combination, collectors quickly anointed the 116710BLNR the “Batman”. One of the most popular offerings during its initial run, the watch was first discontinued in 2019 and replaced with a new reference 126710BLNR with Jubilee bracelet, nicknamed by collectors as the “Batgirl”. In 2021, Rolex re-introduced the Oyster bracelet to the 126710BLNR reference.
Presented here in excellent condition and from the collection of the original owner, this example of the Batman retains all of its original accessories from when it was purchased in 2018. Attractive looks, storied heritage, and a catchy nickname make this watch the perfect everyday watch.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
An elegant and highly attractive curved wristwatch with warranty and presentation box, made for the 100th anniversary of the Tank Cintrée
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 2021
Reference No. 2718
Case No. No. 65 of 150
Model Name Tank Cintrée
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 9780MC, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Cartier buckle
Dimensions 46mm x 23mm
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by Cartier International Warranty dated March 7th, 2022, blank Certificate of Origin, red leather Cartier presentation box, Cartier suede pouch, original sales invoice, and outer packaging.
Known as the “Jeweler of Kings, and the King of Jewelers” Cartier has a long and storied history, and their commitment to creating breath-taking and innovative designs is beautifully displayed in the Tank Cintrée. One of their most enduring timepieces, the Tank was introduced in 1917, and since then Cartier has produced variants of the model playing with proportions of the bezel, case shape, and dial configuration. Designed near the end of World War I, the inspiration for the Tank’s ground-breaking design came from the top view of the very first Renault military tank vehicle deployed that same year. In 1921, Cartier launched the Grand Tank Cintrée with an aesthetically pleasing long, slender, and gracefully arching case. At the time, the model was the largest and boldest adaptation with a modern, fresh design on the rectangular shape and case dimensions of the original Cartier Tank wristwatch. Today, the Tank Cintrée is incredibly popular, having inspired modern successors in the “Collection Privée, Cartier Paris” series in the early 2000s, to exciting limited edition variants in the present day.
The present limited edition Tank Cintrée was launched in 2021 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the model, and closely resembles the early 20th century aesthetic of the original. The new edition resembles the production model issued in 2018 with a few slight differences, including Breguet-style hands, elongated Roman numerals and no “Swiss Made” designation found at 6 o’clock.
The present watch is in like new condition with its original factory stickers to the caseback, and numbered 65 of a limited number of 150 timepieces. It comes complete with warranty, presentation box and original sale invoice.
A possibly unique, striking, and virtually unworn asymmetric yellow gold wristwatch with special order green numerals, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 2023
Reference No. WGCH0087
Case No. 4’127 and 39’901’6DY
Model Name Crash
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal 8971 MC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant buckle
Dimensions 42mm length x 21mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000
€28,200–56,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Cartier guarantee, loupe, tool, product literature, fitted box, and outer packaging.
Often regarded as the “King of Shapes,” Cartier has released many of the most recognizable watch designs amongst all brands, resonating with its rich heritage and iconic design legacy. Arguably the most iconic shape of them all, the Crash, holds significant importance in the pantheon of Cartier wristwatches. Its unconventional design challenges traditional notions of watch aesthetics and showcases Cartier’s innovative approach to wristwatch design.
Despite its initial release over half a century ago, the Cartier Crash remains to this day a highly coveted and sought-after watch among collectors and enthusiasts alike. In recent years, there has been a noticeable trend towards appreciation for shaped watches, and the Cartier Crash has been at the forefront of this movement.
Most certainly the result of a special commission request, the present watch was purchased in December 2023 and remains in brand new, unworn condition. What is especially striking about this watch is the beautifully chosen green roman numerals as well as the yellow gold hands that match the curvaceous case. The olive green sapphire cabochon adds another element of delightful cohesion. While green is perhaps not the most obvious choice when it comes to a brand like Cartier, the end result is stunning.
While Cartier has introduced a number of variations of the Crash model in the past featuring different case sizes, the present watch takes the coveted, larger size of the “London Bond Street” Crash, which has a larger presence on the wrist. Complete with all of its accompanying accessories, the present lot is certain to captivate enthusiasts and collectors alike, solidifiying its status as a timeless and iconic timepiece.
An unusual and exceptional limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with “Damascus steel” dial, certificate of origin, and presentation box, numbered 5 of a 28 piece limited edition, sold to benefit charity
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2017
Case No. 7183-05/28
Model Name Chronomètre Souverain “Holland & Holland”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$60,000–120,000
€56,300–113,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe certificate and warranty dated December 23rd 2017, original purchase invoice, Holland & Holland x F.P. Journe information booklet, and co-signed fitted presentation box.
As much as F.P. Journe timepieces are known for pushing the technical boundaries of haute horlogerie, some of his most coveted timepieces possess simpler movements paired with audacious design elements. An example of this audacity is the Chronomètre Souverain “Holland & Holland”, a limited series of 66 watches first released in 2017.
Two historical gun barrels made of Damascus steel sourced from renowned gunsmith Holland & Holland’s own museum were made available as the focal point of an exquisite series of timepieces. Barrel number 7183 dating to 1882, the source of the present watch’s dial, produced 28 dials and is reflected in the reference number of the watch. The other barrel, number 1382, relinquished 38 dials and dates to 1868. Each barrel was cut, rolled flat and cut again to create the requisite thickness for a dial at Holland & Holland’s factory. Then, the artisans at F.P. Journe’s own dial maker, Les Cadraniers de Genève, cut the shape of the dial out of those pieces. These dials were then returned to Holland & Holland where they underwent a “browning” process similar to “blueing” of steel in watchmaking which emphasizes the unique curves and patterns in the steel.
Rarely ever are F.P. Journe timepieces cased in steel, but this was the only fitting material to encircle such a dial. Only existing Journe and Holland & Holland clients were invited to apply to receive one of these rare timepieces. From the original owner, and complete with all of its original accessories, all proceeds from the hammer price result will be donated by the consignor to UNICEF.
PROPERTY FROM THE ORIGINAL OWNER
Chronomètre Souverain “Holland & Holland”
A very rare and important platinum chronometer wristwatch with double escapement, 12 and 24 hour subdials, power reserve, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2019
Case No. 271-RT
Model Name Chronomètre à Résonance
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1499.3, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 40.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$150,000–300,000 Σ
€141,000–282,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe International Guarantee Card, user manual USB, and inner and outer F.P. Journe boxes.
In 2020, on the 20th anniversary of the launch of the Résonance, F.P. Journe launched the Résonance RQ, an all-new version incorporating a remontoire d’egalite for each escapement and a single barrel differential system for energy distribution. While the F.P. Journe community welcomed such novelty with bittersweet enthusiasm, Journe collectors were also saddened to see the “original” Résonance discontinued. In fact, the manufacturer itself recognized the importance of its first model and thus produced an exclusive “final” edition Résonance, the RTA, for the 2019 calendar year. The RTA brought back the original “dual analog dial” layout of the original design, following the mixed digital/analog display of the Résonance RT introduced in 2010. The RT was affectionately known as the “parking meter”, employing a pair of rotating disks for the hours and minutes surrounded by a steel frame.
While the original Résonance dial design incorporated identical 12-hour subdials, the 2019 design differentiated the two indications: on the left a 24-hour dial (ideal to track “home time” without incurring an AM/PM uncertainty) and a “local time” standard 12-hour dial on the right, both of them featuring an attractive and subtle blue hue for the graphics, often reserved for ultra-complicated F.P. Journe models. The RTA is the only version of the Résonance designed without minute markers on both sub-dials—a minimalist design approach also used for Journe’s ultra-exclusive Astronomic Souverain.
The present example is fresh-to-the-market and comes complete with its original guarantee and accessories. Presented in a 40mm platinum case and complemented by a matte grey solid gold dial, it boasts a superbly attractive monochrome look. Produced strictly for one year only, it is the rarest variant of the iconic Résonance certain to appeal to the most discerning collectors who value the mechanical ingenuity of F.P. Journe.
A very rare and coveted white gold wristwatch with Certificate of Origin, warranty, and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2022
Reference No. 5168G
Movement No. 7’507’603
Case No. 6’543’942
Model Name Jumbo Aquanaut
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal.324SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42.2mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$60,000–120,000
€56,300–113,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, leather wallet, product literature, fitted box and outer Tiffany & Co. packaging.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5168G was launched originally in 2017 in celebration of the model’s 20th anniversary and came not only with a new updated case size of 42.2mm but also a white gold case adding an extra layer of stealth luxury appeal.
Featuring a captivating gradient navy blue dial that echoes the hues of the open sea, the watch is the embodiment of sporty sophistication within the brand’s esteemed sports watch collection. The iconic embossed checkerboard pattern on the dial, coupled with the luminescent Arabic numerals and hands, ensures optimal readability in any lighting conditions. Fitted with the characteristic “tropical” strap, a resilient composite material, the Aquanaut not only exudes a contemporary aesthetic but also offers robustness and comfort for daily wear.
Extremely sought after and difficult to obtain, the present example is elevated by its highly coveted “Tiffany & Co.” signature found at 6 o’clock. Consigned by the original owner, the watch is presented in like-new overall condition and is complete with its full set of accessories.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
Ref. 5168G Aquanaut “Tiffany & Co.”
8.
A virtually “new old stock” and extremely rare yellow gold and stainless steel wristwatch with champagne dial, date, and bracelet
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 1984
Reference No. 3700/11
Movement No. 1’307’814
Case No. 2’808’795
Model Name Nautilus “Jumbo”
Material 18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 28-255 C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold and stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$60,000–120,000
€56,300–113,000
Accessories
Accompanied by two Patek Philippe Extracts from the Archives, one dated 2019 and the other dated 2017, confirming the production of this reference 3700/11 in steel and yellow gold with “gilded ribbed dial” in 1984 and its subsequent sale on December 20th, 1984.
Whereas the Nautilus reference 3700/1 was in production until 1981 and featured a straight bracelet, its successor the reference 3700/11 with tapered bracelet remained in production until 1990. With its aesthetics kept very similar to its predecessor, the 3700/11 was fitted with a narrower bracelet measuring 14mm at the end in comparison to the 3700/1’s bracelet measuring 16mm.
Cased in two-tone 18K yellow gold and stainless steel, the present watch embodies to perfection the aesthetic cues of the 1980s: statement colors with playfulness. Its gold inner links add flair, sophistication, and a suave cool factor to an already iconic watch. Neither craftmanship nor quality were left to fate. Its champagne dial was handmade with utmost precision by Stern Frères with engraved stripes to achieve a uniform ribbed texture. Further, the present watch is one of the rarest iterations of the model, a reference 3700/11, as it is estimated only 300 examples were cased in two-tone 18K yellow gold and stainless steel, while 1500 examples were made in stainless steel. Only four examples, including this one, have come to the market in this configuration.
Though both rare and attractive, the real draw of this example is the utterly impeccable state of preservation. Truly “newold-stock”, it retains all of its original factory finishes, and exceptionally, its original caseback sticker is perfectly preserved. All chamfers and brushed and polished edges are utterly original, making this a museum-quality example of a 3700/11, and ideal for the Patek Philippe connoisseur.
Ref. 3700/11 Nautilus Jumbo “New Old
A like-new, extremely scarce, and coveted white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indicator, moon phase, bracelet, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
By 2018, Patek Philippe had diversified its legendary Nautilus line up to include a vast array of complications—from a simple date to a chronograph to an annual calendar. It finally came time to introduce their signature complication in the Nautilus line as well, and at Baselworld, Patek Philippe launched the 5740G. With a lustrous 18K white gold case and bracelet, the caliber 240 Q—Patek’s ultra-slim perpetual calendar movement stamped with the Patek Philippe seal—beats within so that the case itself remains a mere 8.42mm, which is even slimmer than the reference 5712.
Well-balanced, with its signature ribbing, the chameleon-like blue dial changes depending on the lighting condition from a sky blue to a deep navy. It complements the warm grey luster of the case to create an exceptionally well-designed timepiece.
A like-new, extremely scarce, and coveted white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indicator, moon phase, bracelet, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2022
Reference No. 5740/1G-001
Movement No. 7’472’283
Case No. 6’489’979
Model Name Nautilus Perpetual Calendar “Tiffany & Co.”
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240 Q, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$150,000–300,000
€141,000–282,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated May 17th, 2022 indicating retail by Tiffany & Co., product literature, leather folio, setting pin, fitted presentation box, and outer Tiffany & Co. box.
What can only be described as a “cherry” on top of the cake, this 5740 bears the coveted “Tiffany & Co.” stamp on the dial. Only one other Tiffany-signed 5740 has appeared publicly, with very few having been produced. The watch is accompanied by its full suite of original accessories, including Tiffany blue outer box. It is furthermore presented in like-new, unworn condition.
Ref. 5740G Nautilus Perpetual “Tiffany &
An extremely rare, highly coveted, and complex stainless steel perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, 24 hour indicator, leap year indicator, original certificate, and additional solid caseback
Produced in limited examples between 1994 and 2012, the reference 5004—a perpetual calendar with split-seconds chronograph—remains one of the most technically advanced and scarce wristwatches of the Lemania-era. Accordingly, approximately 12 examples were made per year due to the difficulty in creating and assembling the movement to Patek Philippe’s standards.
To commemorate the reference’s retirement in 2012, Patek Philippe made the unexpected choice of casing very few examples in stainless steel: a choice not without precedent but of rare occurrence. Patek Philippe rarely ever makes complicated stainless steel watches, and throughout its history, these have become the most sought-after examples of Patek’s horological oeuvre. Furthermore, the 5004A was only offered to the brand’s very best clients, all sold through the Geneva Salon, and the sapphire caseback and solid caseback were all engraved with the name of the original owner.
An extremely rare, highly coveted, and complex stainless steel perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, 24 hour indicator, leap year indicator, original certificate, and additional solid caseback
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2012
Reference No. 5004A-001
Movement No. 3’275’468
Case No. 4’530’365
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. CHR 27-70 Q, 28 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$500,000–1,000,000 Σ
€469,000–939,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated March 19th 2012, oversized leather folio, glossy image, solid caseback, setting pin, hang tag, and folio.
Though a rumored 50 pieces were created, only 9 examples have surfaced at auction thus far. The present example, with its original accessories and matching casebacks, is fresh to the auction market and preserved in impeccable overall condition.
Manufacturer Tudor
Year Circa 1969
Reference No. 7021/0; inside caseback stamped IV.68
Case No. 739’766
Model Name Submariner “Snowflake”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2484, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex folded Oyster bracelet, reference 9315, endlinks stamped 380, max overall length 210mm (about 245mm length including diver’s extension)
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp with diver’s extension
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Dial and movement signed Tudor. Case and bracelet signed Rolex.
Estimate
$6,000–12,000
€5,600–11,300
Accessories
Accompanied by two additional links.
The Tudor brand was the brainchild of Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf who wished for a separate watch company that retained the durability and dependability of Rolex, but at a “more modest price”. Though designated as autonomous companies, Rolex guaranteed the technical quality of the watches and as time went on, it became clear that the aesthetic design of Tudor watches would closely mirror that of Rolex.
Tudor produced the current reference 7021/0 alongside its non-date sibling the reference 7016/0 between 1969 and 1975. These watches featured square hour markers and a unique hand style that set them apart from their Rolex counterparts, and subsequent collectors have nicknamed both references “Snowflake” for the unusual geometric handset.
The reference 7021/0 was the first Tudor Submariner model to feature a date indication as well as the brand’s updated logo, a shield, which replaced the rose of the previous decades. Powered by the reliable ETA caliber 2484, the 7021/0 marked the beginning of the design codes that would come to define the Tudor brand into the contemporary era.
With a most probably unpolished case, beautifully faded bezel, well-preserved, original dial and hands with all luminous material intact, the current lot is an excellent opportunity to snap up a coveted, early Tudor diver’s watch.
UNIVERSAL GENÈVE A rare, attractive, and well preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with exotic dial
Manufacturer Universal Genève Year Circa 1970s
Reference No. 885.107
Case No. 2’892’574
Model Name Compax “Exotic”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. Valjoux 72 / Universal Genève cal. 85, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$8,000–16,000
€7,500–15,000
Universal Genève launched the Compax model fitted with audacious and vibrant “exotic” dials, with the reference 885.107 silver dial & 885.108 with a blue dial. The exotic series is not only much rarer than the already scarce panda variants, it is notable that this variant in silver is the rarest one of all with less than 15 examples known to have surfaced in the market. Fitted with racing red accents and a blue acrylic bezel with matching blue registers, the silver dial with the addition of a defined T-shaped matte silver shimmers in contrast, reminding one of the extremely attractive livery of an F1 sports car.
At the heart of the watch is Universal Genève’s caliber 85, based on the famed Valjoux 72. Used in iconic watches such as early manually-wound Rolex Daytonas, the Valjoux 72 holds a paramount significance in the world of chronographs, revered for its exceptional quality, reliability, and robustness.
Offered in well-preserved condition with a most probably unpolished, the present Compax is a wonderfully rare and collectible timepiece for the collector of vintage chronographs. 12.
A well-preserved and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “Mark 1” dial, gas escape valve, date and bracelet, with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1977
Reference No. 1665
Movement No. D’525’489
Case No. 5’398’992
Model Name Sea-Dweller “Great White”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with diver’s extension, reference 93150, endlinks stamped 580, max approx. overall length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 93150, stamped “S”
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$12,000–24,000
€11,300–22,500
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee dated June 24th, 1979 from a retailer located in Marseille, chronometer attestation, plastic wallet with case number sticker, product literature, wax hang tag, inner fitted presentation box, and outer box.
Launched in 1967, the Sea-Dweller is Rolex’s ultimate tool watch. Originally conceived for dive expeditions, the model was officially introduced for civilian use in 1967. The Sea-Dweller’s biggest technical innovation was the helium escape valve. During the 1960s, most watches did not have the capability to be submerged into great depths within diving chambers, without incurring serious damage. The Helium Escape Valve allowed helium gas, which built up due to the pressurized air mixture used within these deep-sea chambers, to be released during decompression.
In 1977, around the 5.2 million serial number, production of the Double Red Sea-Dweller ceased, and the “Great White” was born. Thanks to its purity on the dial, lacking any bright colors, collectors refer to this model as the “Great White”, a nod to the maritime application of the Sea-Dweller.
During the next four years, different “Great White” dial variants were produced and scholarship today divides them into five typologies ranging from Mark 0 to Mark 4, of which the present watch is a Mark 1 example. Mark 1 dials, which precede the more common “rail dials” on “Great White” Sea Dwellers are defined by the first instance of open 6s, a shortened “Sea-Dweller” text, and a specific serial number range.
Preserved in wonderful and in our opinion unpolished condition retaining its original bezel pearl, it is accompanied by its guarantee indicating sale in Marseille (the birthplace of COMEX), and chronometer certificate.
Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller “Great White
A highly interesting, extremely well-preserved, and early stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with “Mark 0” matte dial, date, and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1967
Reference No. 1675; inside caseback additionally stamped 1675 and II.67
Movement No. D’979’331
Case No. 1’682’818
Model Name GMT-Master “Mark 0”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1575, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, reference 7206, end links stamped 58, max approx. overall length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped I.69
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$12,000–24,000
€11,300–22,500
In production for more than 20 years, from 1959 to 1980, the Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675 was the highly successful and more robust replacement for the first GMT-Master model reference 6542. First produced with “glossy” dials with gilt printing, Rolex switched to the use of matte dials as early as the 1.6 million serial number (circa 1967). While it has never been confirmed by Rolex exactly why the shift was made, matte dials are believed to be less expensive to manufacture, more robust, and less reflective.
The earliest matte dials fitted to cases bearing the 1.6 million serial number are known to collectors as the “Mark 0” type dial. These dials are printed in the exact same manner as the final version of the glossy gilt dial, known as “Type C”, with all the same characteristics. As Rolex scholarship is always evolving, the “Mark 1” dial was previously thought to be the earliest iteration, but the uncovering of the early iteration led to a new additional classification. These early “Mark 0” dials are paired with the small GMT hand seen on galvanic dial, gilt printing 1675s.
Transitional references in Rolex’s past catalogue are amongst the most interesting and sought-after examples across all models. They are the ones that redefine scholarship and demonstrate how young this collecting category really is. This extremely early matte dial 1675 is a premium example, with all the characteristics of the recently discovered “Mark 0” variant. Highly collectable and preserved in phenomenal condition with a beautiful dial and, in our opinion, unpolished case, the present 1675 from an important collector is a rare opportunity to obtain a coveted reference.
A well-preserved, rare, and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date and alarm function
Manufacturer Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year 1968
Reference No. E859
Movement No. 1’996’427
Case No. 1’132’895; 5-68
Model Name Memovox Polaris
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. K285, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
The famed Jaeger-LeCoultre “Memovox” (voice of memory) was introduced in 1950, quickly gaining traction as one of the most desirable and reliable alarm wristwatches on the market. A center disc with an arrow is operated by a second crown typically found at 2 o’clock, allowing the alarm function to be quickly and easily set. In an era where sports diving was gaining more and more popularity (indeed, advertisements of the era branded the E859 as “pour l’homme d’action” or “for the man of action”), JaegerLeCoultre’s response was to launch a unique, oversized, automatic waterproof divers’ wristwatch with an alarm function.
Their goal was to offer both visual (inner bezel) and auditory (alarm) timers for maximum diver safety. To do so, the firm created a patented case back, which optimized the alarm’s sound transmission under water. The outer case, with its 16 holes, allowed for the alarm tone to be heard and also felt on the wrist, while the inner case sealed and protected the movement. The watch featured three crowns, each with the cross hatch pattern characteristic of Super Compressor watches: the first for time setting, the second to rotate the inner bezel for dive timing, and the third to rotate the inner disc with arrow to set the alarm.
Known in the United States as the Polaris, and in the European market as the “Skin Diver Memovox”, the reference E859 was made in 1714 total examples. The present European E589, signed Jaeger-LeCoultre on the dial, is amongst the finest examples to come to market. Well-preserved with a sharp case that in our opinion has never seen a polishing, its beautifully aged dial is flawless, with all luminous material original and fully intact. The beauty of the case’s design is enhanced by the presence of the original and rarely seen rounded, domed crystal—most surviving examples are instead fitted with service crystals with a sharp edge.
A fine and rare yellow gold wristwatch with sweep center seconds, date, lapis lazuli hardstone dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1970
Reference No. 1601
Movement No. DN903507
Case No. 461’495
Model Name Datejust
Material 18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli
Calibre Automatic, 1066, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, 185mm maximum length, end link stamped 53
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex folding deployant clasp stamped Rolex SA
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Since its debut in 1945, the Rolex Datejust has remained a revered model in the realm of wristwatches, seamlessly blending ageless sophistication with groundbreaking technology. Pioneering the presentation of the date within an aperture at 3 o’clock in a self-winding wristwatch, it helped position Rolex for further success by integrating innovations like the waterproof Oyster case and the perpetual self-winding mechanism. Its versatility to seamlessly shift from formal events to everyday use has solidified its status as an essential model in the repertoire of watch aficionados worldwide.
The present lot is a stunning and highly charismatic example of the reference 1601 as it is fitted with a rare and sought-after lapis lazuli hardstone dial. Objectively attractive, the color of the lapis lazuli is vibrant and consists of small gold specks throughout that matches pefectly with the gilt lettering and yellow gold case.
The case is extremely well preserved, with excellent proportions, and the gold Jubilee bracelet is equally as appealing. The hardstone dial is preserved in outstanding condition, free from any cracks or damange, and is destined to attract the attention of tasteful collectors worldwide.
17. A rare, well-preserved, and attractive yellow gold automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, “nipple” dial, and “Hecho in Mexico” bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1969
Reference No. 1680
Movement No. D’590’911
Case No. 2’412’924
Model Name Submariner
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max approx. length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, marked “18K” and “Hecho in Mexico”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed. Clasp further signed “Hecho in Mexico”.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by two additional bracelet links.
The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the first Submariner model fitted with a date function. Soon to follow in 1969, Rolex introduced the first Submariner to be produced in 18K yellow gold. The model would eventually be produced with an option of either a blue dial with blue bezel insert or black dial with black bezel insert, like the present model.
Preserved in most probably unpolished condition, the present 1680 in 18K yellow gold is fitted with a so-called “nipple” dial (or “bicchierini”, Italian for “little cups”), for the conical gold markers with a small lume-filled opening at the top. Though the earliest gold Submariners are characterized by a “meters first” dial, beginning around the 2.4 million serial number, the designation was reversed and subsequent dials would be printed “feet first”, like the present watch which bears an early 2.41 million serial number.
Adding interest and rarity, this reference 1680 is accompanied by a very rare 18K yellow gold President bracelet marked “Hecho in Mexico”. Denoting its fabrication in Mexico under the specifications of Rolex, this President bracelet was most certainly a special order at the time of original sale considering the bracelet’s endlinks are perfectly shaped for the case.
An early, rare, and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with “floating Cosmograph” dial, bracelet, accessories, and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1988
Reference No. 16528; inside caseback stamped 16520
Movement No. 10’225
Case No. R’833’501
Model Name Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 103, max overall length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78668, stamped M6
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex wallet with serial number, chronometer certificate booklet, Rolex Daytona product literature, Rolex Oyster product literature, calendar card for 1988-1989, Rolex red leather wallet, handkerchief, hang tag, wax seal, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
The present reference 16528 in yellow gold from the earliest era of Rolex’s production of the first self-winding Daytona, features the coveted floating placement of the “Cosmograph” designation on the dial with an inverted six in the subdial at 6 o’clock. Produced for only one year from 1988 until 1989, this remarkable dial variant can only be found on examples bearing an “R” or “L” serial number. Part of the R series, the present specimen is also fitted with the correct Mark 1 bezel with 200 units scale and unit per hour text at 3 o’clock mark. The early dial, made for Rolex by Singer, features lovely and extremely fine serifs on all text, and is further accentuated by its overall flawless condition.
Highly collectible with incredible rarity, the connoisseurs with keen attention to details will be particularly taken with this example. It is offered with its guarantee wallet with serial number, information booklets, hang tag, and presentation boxes.
A stunning and exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet
Ref. 6239 “Paul Newman” Daytona
Playing an important role in Rolex history, the reference 6239 introduced in 1963 was the very first Cosmograph Daytona model. The red “Daytona” text was not displayed on the earliest models as the brand initially marketed the reference as the “Le Mans” before settling on “Daytona,” which would start appearing on the dials shortly after the change. Available in stainless steel, 14K, and 18K gold, the 6239 was the first chronograph by the historic manufacture to feature the tachymeter scale outside the dial, incorporated instead on the bezel.
The present watch is a stunning example, maintaining its lovely, original “Paul Newman” exotic dial in flawless condition, housed in a very likely unpolished case. The black on white grené dial is instantly recognizable due to its Art-Deco-style numerals within the subsidiary registers and coupled with the bright red “Daytona” text at 6 o’clock, creating a strikingly beautiful aesthetic. The dial’s beauty is enhanced by the outer red 1/5th seconds track and well-preserved concentric circles of the subsidiary dials. The perfectly preserved luminous plots have begun to take on a pleasing and consistent warm beige hue.
A stunning and exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1968
Reference No. 6239; inside caseback additionally stamped 6239
Case No. 1’998’831
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, max overall length 210mm, endlinks stamped 57
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$200,000–400,000
€188,000–376,000
In production as an alternative to the standard silvered and black dials, this dial configuration was originally named “exotic” by Rolex, before its association with the iconic actor. Paul Newman dials were poorly received by the public at first, and thus their production lasted for about 4–5 short years, making them today as scarce as they are appealing.
The present example was purchased by an astute collector of vintage Rolex timepieces who appreciated its Japanese market origin, a country renowned for owners and collectors committed to the utmost quality and condition. The identical configuration of Paul Newman’s very own “Paul Newman” Daytona, ref. 6239 (serial number 2,005,325) that sold for a world record $17.8 million by Phillips in October 2017, the present 6239 with tri-color Paul Newman exotic dial is certainly one of the finest examples to ever be offered publicly.
A fresh-to-the-market, impressively well-preserved, and highly attractive amagnetic stainless steel wristwatch with “tropical” honeycomb dial, “lightning” hand, bracelet, chronometer certificate, and original purchase receipt, consigned by the original owner
Released in 1956, the reference 6541 represents the very first iteration of the Milgauss. The model targeted a very specific— albeit at the time novel and growing—market: scientists, engineers, and technicians working with high magnetic fields in electro-industrial environments or scientific facilities; indeed its iconic “lightning” seconds hand is an obvious nod to electromagnetism. Most impressively, the Milgauss was guaranteed to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 oersted. The name Milgauss is derived from the Latin word mille, which means 1,000, and gauss, the unit of measure for a magnetic field. The Milgauss overcomes the effects of magnetic fields by using anti-magnetic alloys and an iron inner movement case to create a Faraday cage.
Phillips is honored to offer for the first time in our history, a Rolex Milgauss reference consigned directly by the original owner. Manufactured in 1958, the most prominent feature of the watch is its unusual and somewhat whimsical seconds hand in the shape of a lightning bolt. Giving the watch an unmistakable appearance is the beautifully preserved and exceedingly rare “honeycomb” dial that has aged to a stunning and uniform “tropical” brown hue with non-luminous circular hour markers and faceted triangular indexes at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The originally red “Milgauss” designation has faded to pink. Its case number 412’155 is consistent with other examples of the reference, as most appear to bear a 412’xxx serial number. Fitted with Rolex’s caliber 1066, its bridge features an engraved ‘M’ specific only to the Milgauss model.
Ref. 6541 Milgauss “Tropical, Original Owner”
A fresh-to-the-market, impressively well-preserved, and highly attractive amagnetic stainless steel wristwatch with “tropical” honeycomb dial, “lightning” hand, bracelet, chronometer certificate, and original purchase receipt, consigned by the original owner
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1958
Reference No. 6541; additionally stamped 6541 and IV.1958 on inside caseback
Movement No. DDN’885’003
Case No. 412’169
Model Name Milgauss
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1055, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7206, endlinks stamped 58, maxoverall length 210mmm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 6251 H, stamped “G”
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$120,000–240,000
€113,000–225,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex chronometer certificate dated September 19th, 1962 with case number matching, original purchase receipt dated October 9th, 1969, original purchase order and shipping documents dated November 28th, 1969, and additional original acrylic crystal.
An American bass guitarist for bands such as McKendree Spring, and an educator, the original owner was traveling through Switzerland in the summer of 1969 as recently documented in a Bloomberg article in which he was interviewed. An enthusiast of Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels, his curiosity about Rolex was piqued, and he and his wife wandered into a jewelry store in Zurich, where they were shown several Rolex wristwatches, among them this very Milgauss. Passing on it at the time, his wife secretly returned to the jewelry store and bought it. He wore it faithfully for many years until right after its last servicing, in the late 1980s or early 1990s. Not only is the original owner pictured wearing the watch in promotional images for his band and even on an album cover. Accompanied with its original crystal, but also a new old stock, domed Rolex ‘tropic’ crystal was recently installed, remarkably, he retained the chronometer certificate dating to 1962, his original purchase receipt, purchase order, and shipping documents from that trip in 1969. Still fitted on its original riveted Oyster bracelet, the present lot is a superb, all original example of this highly coveted reference.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
Ref. 6541 Milgauss “Tropical, Original Owner”
An extremely rare, luxurious, and well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, black “Paul
John
dial, and Rolex
de Restauration guarantee and box
An extremely rare, luxurious, and well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, black
and Rolex
Restauration guarantee and box
Of the 14,000 reference 6239s produced beginning in 1963 until 1969, only approximately 300 were cased in 18K yellow gold. And of those 300, only the barest handful were fitted with the luxurious, audacious black Paul Newman “John Player Special” dial. The present example is one of those, having been serviced and authenticated by Rolex Geneva’s own Atelier de Restauration in 2021, with only its movement serviced. It remains preserved in stunning condition, with a flawless dial and impressively proportioned case and bracelet.
While it is most common to see the JPS dial fitted to the acrylic bezel reference 6241, it is even rarer—though not unheard of—to see it fitted to the metal bezel reference 6239. When paired with an ultra-luxurious 18K yellow gold Oyster bracelet, the effect is unparalleled. Fitted with the extremely coveted “Paul Newman John Player Special” dial, the combination is unquestionably striking.
An extremely rare, luxurious, and well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, black “Paul Newman John Player Special” dial, and Rolex Atelier de Restauration guarantee and box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1970
Reference No. 6239; inside caseback additionally stamped 6239
Case No. 2’330’444
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman John Player Special”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, end links stamped 71
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$500,000–1,000,000
€469,000–939,000
Accessories
Rolex Atelier de Restauration guarantee paperwork, detailed invoice, fitted wooden presentation box, and outer box.
Though serviced by Rolex, the service invoice included with the watch gives explicit instructions not to restore the case, bracelet, or dial. Of all the interventions that could have taken place, only the movement was serviced and the crystal replaced. The dial retains the correct “T-SWISS-T” “sing-asong” variant, and the bezel is a slightly later, Mark 2 200 UPH from the mid 1970s.
The combination of the gold bezel and gold bracelet is quite an alluring one, and the wrist presence it provides unrivaled. Not only is the original owner pictured wearing the watch in promotional images for his band, but also on the McKendree Spring 3 album insert. Accompanied with its original crystal and recently fitted with a new old stock domed Rolex ‘tropic’ crystal, remarkably, he retained the chronometer certificate dating to 1962, his original purchase receipt, purchase order, and shipping documents from that trip in 1969. We are thrilled to present this reference 6239 with black Paul Newman “John Player Special” dial from the collection of an international connoisseur.
A well-preserved, very rare, and attractive stainless steel annual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, 24-hour display, center seconds, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2020
Reference No. 5726A-001
Movement No. 5’963’093
Case No. 6’400’749
Model Name Nautilus
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S QA LU 23H, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000 Σ
€37,600–75,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, product literature, leather folio, Patek Philippe presentation box, bespoke orange non-OEM strap, and Tiffany box.
In 1996, Patek Philippe patented the annual calendar complication, a practical yet complicated mechanism that took into account the different lengths of the months and required only one annual adjustment in February. In 2010, the brand launched its first Nautilus with annual calendar as the reference 5726.
Encased in stainless steel and fitted on a strap, the reference 5726A-001 features a well-proportioned 40.5mm case that houses a harmoniously arranged dial inspired by the brand’s vintage perpetual calendar models. The blue gradient dial presents the day and months via apertures at 12 o’clock, and moon phase and date indications at 6 o’clock. Further enhancing its desirability, the present example was retailed by Tiffany & Co. and features the prestigious retailer’s signature at 6 o’clock.
The present watch is fresh-to-market and consigned by the original owner. It is preserved in like-new condition and comes complete with all accompanying accessories as well as a bespoke-made orange fabric strap.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
Ref. 5726A Nautilus Annual Calendar “Tiffany & Co.”
A brand new and attractive lady’s stainless steel and diamond-set wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, Certificate of Origin, and presentation boxes, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2021
Reference No. 7118/1200A-010
Movement No. 7’398’832
Case No. 6’453’344
Model Name Ladies Automatic Nautilus
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S C, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 35.2mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, instruction manual, product literature, hang tag, leather folio, outer packaging and fitted Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. presentation boxes.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus, introduced in 1976, emerged as a game-changer in luxury sports watches. Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, the Nautilus was characterized by its distinctive porthole-inspired case, integrated bracelet, and a blend of sporty yet refined aesthetics. It quickly gained iconic status and became synonymous with Patek Philippe’s commitment to timeless design and technical excellence. In 2009, Patek Philippe extended the Nautilus legacy with the introduction of the 7118 Nautilus model tailored specifically for women. This marked a significant expansion in the Nautilus collection, as it catered to the evolving preferences of female watch enthusiasts.
Featuring the self-winding caliber 324 with center seconds, the reference 7118 retained the signature design elements of the Nautilus while presenting a more petite and elegant profile, tastefully embellished with diamonds and meticulous detailing. Today, the ref. 7118/1A has become one of the most desirable sports watches for ladies.
Elevating the desirability of the present example is its coveted “Tiffany & Co.” signature, found at six o’clock. Consigned by the original owner, the watch is presented in brand new, unworn condition and is complete with its full set of accessories.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
Ref. 7118/1200A Ladies’ Nautilus “Tiffany & Co.”
A rare and highly attractive platinum and diamond-set perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with black dial, leap year, 24-hour indications, and moon phase with original certificate of origin, additional solid case back, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1994
Reference No. 3970E
Movement No. 876’873
Case No. 2’945’320
Material Platinum and diamond
Calibre Manual, cal. CH27’70Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Patek Philippe platinum pin buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000 Σ
€75,100–150,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated March 28, 1995, Patek Philippe presentation box, additional platinum solid case back, setting pin, hang tag, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging. Further accompanied by Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with black dial in 1994.
Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 was a new generation of the brand’s famed serialised perpetual calendar chronograph first released in 1941 with the reference 1518, and followed ten years later by the reference 2499. Launched in 1986, the new reference featured a similar aesthetic to its predecessors with pump-style pushers and down turned stepped lugs, however, the case diameter was reduced in size from 37.5mm to 36mm. The wristwatch was upgraded with a heavily modified Lemania 2310 base caliber, CH 27-70 Q, replacing the former Valjoux movement. Additionally, the dial was redesigned to include both leap year and 24-hour indications.
Beginning with serial number 875’000, the first 100 examples featured a snap on case back with applied gold sword indexes and feuille hands. The second series featured a screw-down, solid caseback, with the hallmarks stamped on the outside of the lugs. The third series featured a sapphire display back along with a screw-down solid caseback, like the present example. The fourth series is identical to the 3rd series.
The present example in platinum has a black dial with diamond indexes and assigned the reference 3970E (“E”—étanche meaning waterproof). Offered for the first time at public auction, the present model from 1994 is in excellent overall condition with strong case proportions and a vibrant black lacquer dial. The watch is accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, presentation box, hang tag and ever so important, additional solid case back.
A very rare and attractive yellow gold openface pocket watch with “Extra”-grade movement with Guillaume balance
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year Circa 1915
Movement No. 170’341
Case No. 282’796, cuvette engraved “Awarded Honourable Mention Geneva Astronomical Observatory Timing Contest 1915–1916”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, lever “Extra” movement, 21 jewels
Dimensions 50mm Diameter
Signed Case, cuvette, dial and movement signed; case, cuvette, and movement numbered.
Estimate
$4,000–8,000
€3,800–7,500
The present openface pocket watch is a shining example of early 20th-century horology and the innovative technical skills demonstrated by the famed brand Patek Philippe. At first glance one may see a time only watch, however the movement is marked “Extra” a designation applied only to watches that have undergone even more rigorous testing, refinement, or enhancement beyond the brand’s already high standards. Upon close inspection of the escapement, one notes the use of a Guillaume balance wheel with blued steel hairspring—the state-of-the-art at the time, used for the finest watches where precision timekeeping was of utmost importance.
Charles-Édouard Guillaume won the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1920, making significant contributions horology with his work on various nickel-steel alloys such as Invar and Elinvar. Guillaume balances with bimetallic rims made of Invar and brass, when used with blued steel hairsprings, are remarkably stable across a range of temperatures.
The present watch from circa 1915 is a wonderful example of the commitment to precision and accuracy in fine Swiss watchmaking. As engraved on the cuvette, the “Extra”-grade movement was awarded “Awarded Honourable Mention Geneva Astronomical Observatory Timing Contest 1915–1916”. The engraving on the movement indicates the watch was retailed by Wm. Senter & Co., a watchmaking firm located in Portland, Maine. William Senter (1850–c. 1926) apprenticed first to his uncle in 1870, also William Senter (1813–1888), and after his uncle’s death in 1888, carried on their family business. With a flawless enamel dial, it is offered in wonderful overall condition.
A very fine and attractive yellow gold openface minute repeating split-seconds chronograph pocket watch with original Certificate of Origin and bill of sale
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 1933
Movement No. 197’995
Case No. 412’553
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, lever movement, 40 jewels
Dimensions 47mm Diameter
Signed Case, cuvette, dial and movement signed; case, cuvette and movement numbered.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by original Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and bill of sale dated April 3rd, 1933 for $1,175, and outer envelope.
The present open face pocket watch is a lovely example of a transitional period in horology when the fashionable pocket watch began giving way to the wristwatch. Cultural changes following World War I lead to the prominence of the wristwatch as a growing number of people began wear them. The splitseconds mechanism, which allowed for the simultaneous timing of two events like horse and automobile racing, is relatively rare with fewer than 200 known pocket watch examples by Patek Philippe.
This example goes a significant step further, featuring a superb minute repeater mechanism. Chiming the exact time by repeating the hours, quarters, and minutes on two gongs, it has a loud, harmonious, and rich tone. Employing an uncommon vertically oriented, two register layout, the stunning dial features beautiful, applied gold Breguet numerals. The desirability of the timepiece is further enhanced by the inclusion of its original Certificate of Origin and bill of sale from 1933.
These early 20th century horological gems showcase the exceptional skill and craftsmanship, as well as the consistent historical excellence, that makes Patek Philippe watches so sought after in the modern era.
Minute-Repeating Split-Seconds Pocket Watch
An historically important, extremely rare, and exquisitely finished openface pocket watch chronometer with up-and-down indication, made for Henry
Observatory
An historically important, extremely rare, and exquisitely finished openface pocket watch chronometer with up-and-down indication, made for Henry Graves
Observatory Pocket Watch for Henry Graves, Jr.
Phillips is honored to offer this wonderful, open-face pocket chronometer owned by Henry Graves Jr. Widely considered one of the 20th century’s most important watch collectors, he is best remembered in the 21st century for his legendary competition with automobile entrepreneur James Ward Packard, to commission some of the most complicated timepieces ever produced. Graves would end up the ultimate victor, having commissioned the “Mona Lisa” of timepieces as described by Stacy Perman, author of “A Grand Complication”, the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication. Delivered in 1933, with 24 complications and requiring over 8 years of development, it was the most complicated timepiece ever made, holding that distinction for over half a century.
Graves was born in 1868 to a prominent New York City family known for their banking and financial interests spanning railroads and cement—and dynastic wealth. Following in his father’s footsteps, he became an accomplished collector establishing himself as one of the most discerning and influential connoisseurs across genres. Today, Graves is recognized for his keen eye for quality and for sparing no expense to acquire some of the most exquisite timepieces ever made by brands such as Patek Philippe, Jules Jurgensen, and Vacheron Constantin.
Before Graves’ pursuit of ultimate complications, he sought the highest performing, most accurate timepieces produced by the finest watchmaking brands. Always choosing 18 karat gold or platinum, he specifically requested from brands such as Patek Philippe, the #1 rated movements from annual chronometry competitions held at the Swiss Observatories—each hand-built and hand-adjusted by the brands’ best watchmakers. Equivalent to Formula 1 race cars, these “observatory chronometers” were a nod to Graves’ own pursuit of perfection and excellence. Before delivery to Graves, their cases would be engraved with his family motto, “Esse Quam Videri”—To Be Rather Than to Seem.
The present lot is certainly one such example. Fitted with an extremely fine movement equipped with a Guillaume balance and designated “Extra Special” on its bridge, the accompanying “Extract from the Archives” confirms the watch was issued a Geneva Observatory rating in September 1920.
According to research, the present lot was delivered to Bailey, Banks and Biddle on October 14th, 1921, and similar to other known Graves watches, it is engraved with the recognisable family crest and motto “Esse Quam Videri”. The watch first appeared at auction in December 2010 where it was also featured on the catalog’s cover, offered by the then owner who acquired the watch from the estimate of Marilyn Prescott Graves (1932-1998), the granddaughter of Henry Graves Jr. She was the daughter of Duncan Preston Graves (1900–1977) and his sole heir.
Consigned by the winning bidder in that 2010 auction, it has remained unused for the past 14 years and offered in the exact state of preservation as when it last appeared. The case, with hidden hinge, is very well preserved and has no signs of needless polishing with the family coat of arms remaining extremely crisp. Its enamel dial is utterly superb, a gorgeous cream color with black Breguet numerals, it features an up/down indicator at 12 o’clock typical of shipboard chronometers of the era, and is in flawless condition. Patek Philippe pocket chronometers with up and down indication are very rare in the marketplace—and even fewer are known to have been cased in yellow gold versus silver cases most often seen.
Henry Graves Jr had a passion of horology both as a collector and was deeply involved in the design and customization of his timepieces, often working closely with watchmakers to create bespoke pieces that reflected his unique tastes and preferences.
An historically important, extremely rare, and exquisitely finished openface pocket watch chronometer with up-and-down indication, made for Henry Graves Jr.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1913
Movement No. 177’483; stamped “Extra Special”
Case No. 407’656; inscribed “Esse Quam Videri”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 19’’’, 21 jewels
Dimensions 50mm Diameter
Signed Case, cuvette, dial, and movement signed and numbered.
Provenance
Christie’s New York, December 14th, 2010, lot 79.
Estate of Marilyn Prescott Graves
Estimate
$100,000–200,000
€93,900–188,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with “Extra Special” movement in 1913, and its subsequent sale on September 22nd, 1920. The extract further confirms the watch was issued a Geneva Observatory rating certificate on September 22nd, 1920.
Whilst the exact number of Packard and Graves-commissioned timepieces aren’t known, approximately 30 have appeared on the market to-date. Accordingly, any time a Packard or Gravesowned timepiece is offered, the collecting world takes notice. These timepieces, including the present lot, are, without any doubt, the apex of fine watchmaking of the 20th century—the very best watches, made by the best brands for the world’s greatest collectors.
Observatory
Manufacturer Ulysse Nardin
Year 1915
Movement No. 200’921; number repeated on dial
Case No. 673’045
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 20’” lever escapement with Guillaume balance, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Dimensions 52mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed. Movement additionally signed with patent number 54714; dial additionally signed with movement number.
Provenance
Habsburg Feldman, December 7th, 1988, lot 142.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
A truly remarkable horological reemergence, the present oversized Ulysse Nardin split-seconds chronograph wristwatch, measuring an incredible 52mm in diameter, has been treasured in a private collection since its acquisition at auction in 1988. What’s most notable is that the watch was not a converted pocket watch with soldered lugs, but a pocket watch movement cased as a wristwatch. It is the largest split-seconds chronograph wristwatch in existence.
Hidden beneath the hinged caseback lies an extremely highgrade, Ulysse Nardin-signed movement with Guillaume balance. A Guillaume balance with blued steel hairspring, which minimizes errors across temperatures, was the ultimate escapement for precision timekeepers and is extremely rare to find in any wristwatch. The extremely impressive downturned lugs are perfectly proportionate to the case, and the icing on the very large cake is a beautiful, well-preserved enamel dial with its serial number at 12 o’clock and bold black Breguet numerals.
According to the original cataloguing from 1988, the present watch was made upon special request sometime between 1918 and 1925. Another example in steel is known, with a movement number only three digits away from the present example. One of the most important wristwatches ever made by Ulysse Nardin, it is a true treasure for the discerning connoisseur. 29. A very oversized, highly important, and possibly unique yellow gold split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with enamel dial, Guillaume balance, and hinged caseback
Split-Seconds Chronograph Aviator “Il Grandissimo”
A fresh-to-the-market, important, and well-preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with Spanish calendar, tachymeter scale and moon phase
Ref. 1518 in Yellow Gold, “Original Family”
A fresh-to-the-market, important, and well-preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with Spanish calendar, tachymeter scale and moon phase
Patek Philippe is cherished for their unsurpassed collection of complicated timepieces, from 19th century repeating chronograph pocket watches to 21st century perpetual calendar wristwatches. They are legendary for their classic designs, innovative movements, and exceptional craftsmanship.
When Patek Philippe released the reference 1518 in 1941, they introduced a milestone wristwatch that today is considered one of the most important wristwatch models of the 20th century. The reference 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch produced by any brand in series, and set the course for Patek Philippe’s dominance in the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking. So ahead of its time was its design, Patek Philippe continues to use its timeless aesthetic as the foundation for a long line of highly sought after successor models including the references 2499, 3970, 5970 and today’s 5270.
Ref. 1518 in Yellow Gold, “Original Family”
The reference 1518’s design aesthetic was a new and modern look with clean lines, elegant proportions, and extended, curved lugs. The case, manufactured by Emile Vichet S. A., with Poinçon de Maître key 9, for Patek Philippe, evolved over the course of its 14 year history and housed Patek Philippe’s exquisitely finished, manually wound caliber 13’’’130 Q.
This landmark model can certainly be considered a must for any serious collector of vintage wristwatches but acquiring one has become more difficult given their scarcity. Scholarship suggests that Patek Philippe produced approximately 281 examples, with the majority in yellow gold, exceedingly rare examples in pink gold, and only four known examples in steel.
A fresh-to-the-market, important, and well-preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with Spanish calendar, tachymeter scale and moon phase
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1945
Reference No. 1518
Movement No. 863’680
Case No. 641’826
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$400,000–800,000 Σ
€376,000–751,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1945, and its subsequent sale on August 27th, 1947.
Offered by the family of the original owner, this wristwatch was lovingly cherished over two generations. It is in a wonderful state of preservation with hallmarks visible to both the central case band and underneath the lug, and retains well-defined case proportions. Manufactured in 1945, its well-preserved dial features a coveted, long signature. The enamel signature remains thick and defined, with the accent above the “e” in “Genève” strong, as is the comma between “Patek” and “Philippe”. The hard enamel printing throughout the dial remains wonderfully preserved. Further elevating its desirability is the very rare Spanish calendar. Research indicates only five other examples with Spanish calendar are known, interestingly one with movement number 863’671—only 9 digits difference from the present watch.
The reference 1518 is an icon in the horological world. This fresh-to-the-market example is a model for the exceptional craftsmanship of Patek Philippe, and a trophy watch for the connoisseur.
Ref. 1518 in Yellow Gold, “Original Family”
PATEK PHILIPPE A fine and attractive pink gold rectangular-shaped wristwatch with hooded lugs and bracelet
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 1940s
Movement No. 835’511
Case No. 629’094
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 9’’’90, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Associated 18K pink gold link bracelet, max overall length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold
Dimensions Case length 34mm
Signed Case, dial and movements signed.
Estimate
$3,000–6,000
€2,800–5,600
The history of horology is as much about the craftsmanship of the movement as it is for the design. The early 20th century is highlighted by an appreciation for design and a changing attitude for functional elegance, which is seen in men’s wristwatches with a modern, forwarding looking perspective. Some of the most iconic watches today are collected because of their aesthetics, from Cartier’s avant-garde Crash to Gilbert Albert’s asymmetrical cases for Patek Philippe, or the robust classic appeal of the reference 2499 by Wenger. Andre and Edouard Wenger began case making in 1912 and registered their trademark in 1920. The firm became one of the most prestigious makers for Patek Philippe and recognized for their innovative designs, which captured the ideals of early 20th century modernism.
Consigned by the family of the original owner—the same owner of the Patek Philippe reference 1518 offered in the previous lot, the present rectangular shaped pink gold wristwatch is a wonderful example of a Wenger case with hooded lugs, which came to prominence in the early 1930s. Fitted with an 18 karat rose gold bracelet of the period, the watch has a timeless elegance with covered ends, so the bracelet attachments are unseen. It is visually appealing with clean lines reminiscent of early 20th century architecture.
PROPERTY OF THE FAMILY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
32. VACHERON CONSTANTIN An attractive and well-preserved yellow gold wristwatch with date and integrated bracelet
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year 1983
Reference No. 46003/411
Movement No. 709’782
Case No. 557’939
Model Name 222
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1124, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin bracelet, max overall length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions 34mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1983.
Vacheron Constantin’s 222, released in 1977 to commemorate the brands 222nd anniversary, has become one of the most recognizable wristwatches in the market today. Developed in the midst of the quartz crisis, this model was the brand’s response to an increasing demand for watches that were more casual with a higher degree of durability. Contemporary with two other iconic timepieces, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin turned to Jörg Hysek to design their first luxury sports wristwatch. The thin case had an instantly recognizable tonneau-shape with raised screw down bezel, all with an integrated link bracelet.
The model was produced in stainless steel, yellow gold, or in a combination of stainless steel and yellow gold. Production lasted seven years ending in 1984 when Vacheron Constantin released the 333 with a rectangular-shaped case. The reference 46003, like the present model, was considered the “mid-size” version with a 34mm diameter case, compared to the “Jumbo” model reference 44018 with a 37mm diameter case. Both featured the unique tonneau-shaped case with clean lines and scalloped bezel ring. The “mid-size” model features the caliber 1124 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 889 movement. The 222 bracelet and clasp were made by the famed Gay-Frères who also manufactured the bracelets for the original Nautilus and Royal Oak.
The present watch, from 1983, is extremely well preserved in excellent overall condition with strong case proportions and sharp edges. Showing hardly any signs of wear and with an extremely taut bracelet, the case back’s engraved “222” and serial numbers are crisp. In luxurious, solid 18 karat yellow gold, Vacheron Constantin’s 222 is an iconic luxury timepiece, certain to delight all collectors.
33. An extremely rare and attractive white gold two time zone wristwatch with diamond dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year 1975
Reference No. 35703
Movement No. 648’245 & 648’248
Case No. 513’427
Model Name “Prestige de France 1972”
Material 18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre Two manual calibers, 7’’’- K1050, 20 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold polished and plated stitched links
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Vacheron Constantin link clasp
Dimensions 21mm width x 42mm length
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Certificate of Authenticity, Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch in 1975, presentation box and pouch.
Some timepieces are born under a lucky star and Vacheron’s “Prestige de France” is undoubtedly one of these. On June 23 1972, the Comité de Prestige et de Propagande Nationale of France granted Vacheron Constantin with the coveted « Diplôme du Prestige de la France » in tribute of the brand’s pursuit of excellence. To celebrate this distinction, Vacheron Constantin’s Paris design team created a surprising asymmetrical watch with the emblem of the Prestige de la France engraved on the back.
For the past forty years this shape has remained within the Vacheron Constantin collection, varying in size and proportions and later named “1972” in honor of the date of its launch.
The present lot is a flamboyant and rare example of the original Prestige de France models dating from the 1970s with a rare dual time function, fitted with two individual, highgrade movements. With a stunning, pave-set diamond dial, it’s completed by a superb, pebble-texture white gold woven bracelet in absolutely pristine condition.
A very fine and rare pink gold wristwatch with sweep center seconds, date, black lacquer dial, and gold bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1957
Reference No. 6605
Movement No. N’701’446
Case No. 309’087
Model Name Datejust
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, 1065, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K pink gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, 195mm maximum length
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Rolex folding deployant clasp stamped Rolex 1.57
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
In 1945, the world witnessed several transformative events that shaped the course of history; most notably the surrender of Nazi Germany, ending World War II. What many do not know is that Rolex also celebrated its 40th anniversary in the same year, and it did so with the launch of the Datejust model.
The Datejust started a revolution then by being the first automatic watch with an instantaneous date aperture—a feature so influential that we take it for granted today. Since then, the model has never left the pages of Rolex’s catalogues, with dozens of references created over the decades.
Datejust production can be divided into three broad categories defined by the automatic movement beating within: the original cal. A.295 (and its upgrade A.296) was the first used for the model between 1945 and 1956. Then, with the advent of references 6605 and 6604, the new generation caliber is introduced. It lasts until 1977 and features cal. 1065, 1565 and 1575. As the movement was thinner, the case also became thinner, losing the slight bulge of the caseback.
The present reference 6605 is amongst the rarest Datejust models, as it was made only for three years between 1956 and 1959, together with its sister reference 6604, featuring a smooth bezel. Remaining in well-preserved condition with sharp lugs and an array of different factory finishes, the watch is further enhanced by its black lacquer “Swiss” dial with gilt graphics and applied, faceted pink gold spade indexes. Fitted on a matching pink gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, the watch boasts a sporty yet elegant appeal.
A rare, attractive, and well-preserved yellow gold and diamond-set wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 1980s
Reference No. 3800/2
Movement No. 1’426’475
Case No. 2’801’273
Model Name Nautilus
Material 18K yellow gold and diamond
Calibre Automatic, cal. 335 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Patek Philippe 18K yellow gold bracelet, max overall length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle Patek Philippe 18K white gold deployant clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
Launched in 1981, the reference 3800 was Patek Philippe’s smaller iteration of the original Nautilus reference 3700. Measuring a still substantial 37.5mm diameter, the model is perhaps the perfect unisex wristwatch in modern times. The wristwatch was manufactured with a wide array of case materials and dial variations making it one of the most interesting luxury sports models manufactured by Patek Philippe to collect. Produced until 2006, the reference was launched in four series during its production spanning 25 years.
Encased in luxurious yellow gold and fitted with a champagne ridged dial, this 3800/2 monochromatic variant is very rare with only seven known examples. Moreover, the diamond-set bezel adds a subtle touch of elegance to the sports watch. Stylish and sophisticated, this Nautilus is sure to entice both male and female collectors of one of Mr. Gérald Genta’s most soughtafter creations.
Ref. 3800 Nautilus “Mid-Sized, Diamond Halo”
A scarce, luxurious, early and highly collectible yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, no leap year indication, bracelet, and warranty
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 1990
Reference No. 25654BA
Case No. D33024, 924
Model Name Royal Oak
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet integrated bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d’Origine et de Garantie booklet, product literature and Bartorelli (at the time, Riccione, Italy Audemars Piguet retailer) service booklet dated 2014.
Reference 25654 replaced the first Royal Oak Perpetual calendar reference 25554 in 1987 and was produced until 1998 in 315 pieces in steel, 430 pieces in yellow gold, 68 pieces in steel and yellow gold and 38 in platinum. It differs from its sibling for a slightly thicker case thickness (8.25mm vs the 7.5mm of ref. 25554) meant to improve its water resistance capabilities. The firm further incorporated the ultra-thin 2120/2800 into the Royal Oak case, making it one of the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatches at the time.
The present Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25654BA is a beautifully preserved example, fitted with a highly desirable white MK I (no leap year indication, “old” signature) white dial. Finding a white dial in this model is quite rare - as they usually feature champagne dials. Aesthetically, the watch undergoes a true transformation. Departing from the “full gold” typical look, the white dial dresses down the watch while at the same time rendering it an unusual and rare configuration which will surprise and delight connoisseurs.
As expected from a MK I dial, it does not include a leap year indication (this feature was only added later, when the movement was updated to the calibre 2120/2802 in 1993) and it features the “old style” AP signature.
Featuring a very sharp case, original guarantee booklet and a luxurious aesthetic, this watch will grant endless delight to its lucky new owner.
A highly rare and attractive limited edition yellow gold tonneau-shaped minute repeating wristwatch with certificate of origin and presentation box, with proceeds of the sale benefitting Chabad of Hunterdon County
Manufacturer Cartier
Year Circa 2006
Reference No. 2610E
Case No. 20/25
Model Name Tortue Minute Repeater
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 9401 MC, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions 35.5mm width x 43mm length
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000 Σ
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Cartier Certificate of Origin, product literature, Cartier presentation box and outer packaging.
Cartier introduced the Tortue in 1912, a name derived from the French word for “turtle,” making it one of Cartier’s oldest shapes, surpassed in age only by the Santos-Dumont (1904). Always pushing the boundaries of aesthetics and design, Louis Cartier broke convention by eschewing the traditional round wristwatch, favouring an unusual and elongated case design. By the 1920s, Cartier began incorporating complications like monopushers and minute repeaters into the Tortue, marking some of the brand’s earliest efforts to combine its distinctive style with mechanical innovation.
The present limited edition yellow gold tonneau-shaped minute repeating wristwatch is from Cartier’s Privée Collection Paris (CPCP), launched in 1998. The watch is number 20 of a limited edition of 25 examples, and is a modern-day interpretation of the storied model. Fitted with a minute repeating mechanism that chimes with great tone and clarity, the present watch pays tribute to Cartier’s past, while staying absolutely modern in its proportions. It is furthermore preserved in excellent, and most probably unpolished condition and accompanied by its original accessories.
The watch is offered at auction for the first-time, having been donated to Chabad of Hunterdon County, which provides assistance and guidance to disadvantaged youth. With the 2024 release of the Tortue Monopusher within the brand’s flagship Cartier Privé collection, the present lot is a wonderful opportunity to acquire an exceptional Tortue model housing perhaps one of the most prestigious high complications that can be found in a wristwatch. 37.
An extremely rare, very elegant, and oversized oval yellow gold watch with bracelet composed of oval links
Manufacturer Cartier Year 1969
Case No. 9376
Model Name Maxi Oval
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, Jaeger LeCoultre cal. K840, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold link chain bracelet, max. length 160 mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold clasp
Dimensions 58mm length X 32mm width
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
During the 1960s, Audemars Piguet and Jaeger LeCoultre made movements for the iconic jewelry company, Cartier, which sourced the best quality movements to meet their highest quality standards.
Known for their elegant designs, this stunning yellow gold Cartier variation of the Baignoire is rarely ever seen with this kind of oversized accentuated style of the case. Beautifully complemented by the large link bracelet, this watch looks absolutely sophisticated while sitting upon a wrist, taking us back to the late 1960s.
It is fitted with the caliber K 840, a movement made by Jaeger LeCoultre specifically for the model. The dial features large Roman numerals to match the size of the case, and is stamped London. The caseback is engraved “Florence, a trip to remember with love Joe” which indicates this watch was most probably bought to commemorate a special trip.
Cartier and London marks are featured on the links and on the clasp, which shows us the attention to detail when crafting this gorgeous piece. Preserved in excellent condition, this watch is sure to make a statement and teleport its owner back to that unforgettable, romantic city of Florence.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 1952
Reference No. 1463
Movement No. 868’517
Case No. 679’092
Model Name “Tasti Tondi”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels; stamped twice with the Geneva seal
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000
€75,100–150,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the present watch in 1952 and its subsequent sale on March 22nd, 1954. Further accompanied by associated Patek Philippe presentation box.
Beginning in the late 1930s, there was a growing appreciation in society for sports and outdoor pursuits. Watch manufacturers sought to fulfill a demand for more durable timepieces, which could withstand the elements. The reference 1463 was designed for such active clientele as the sportier alternative to the less robust reference 130 chronograph. It was produced mainly in yellow gold, with fewer examples in stainless steel and pink gold. How telling, that even in the pursuit of creating a sports watch, Patek Philippe still decided to focus production on precious metals.
In production from 1940 through 1965, the reference 1463 saw a stunning array of dial types. The present is amongst the most refined and legible, with small dash hour indexes and Arabic numerals. The significant proportions and gently curved lugs, combined with the whimsically carved round pushers has made the 1463 a perennial favorite amongst collectors.
Fresh to the auction market, this 1463 dating from the early 1950s features a two-tone dial originally designed for enhanced legibility. Of the 176 yellow gold reference 1463 models known, only approximately 18 examples have been found fitted with a two-tone silver dial. The case features two strong hallmarks on the back of the lug and in between the pushers, making this example an attractive example for the connoisseur.
Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
40. An eccentric, oversized, and very rare yellow gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with date
Manufacturer Zenith Year Circa 1969
Reference No. G383
Case No. 927 D 320
Model Name El Primero “Poker Chip”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3019 PHC, 31 jewels
Dimensions 39.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$8,000–16,000
€7,500–15,000
Literature
A similar watch is illustrated in Manfred Rössler’s Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865 , page 248.
Somewhat of a design anomaly even in the daring times of the late 1960s, the Zenith El Primero reference G383 was produced for only two years, from 1969 to 1970, in a limited series of 200 pieces. With a case similar to the G382 of the same era, it is set apart by its ostentatious dial design of radiating lines in black, window panes of gold paint, and alternating fan-like apertures dividing the inner dial. Its similarity to casino chips has led to the very fitting nickname “Poker Chip”.
Unlike the original El Primero, which had a case diameter of 38mm, the “Poker Chip” case diameter clocks in at an unusually large 39.5mm. The charismatic “spider lugs” extending out from the case, and the flat, stepped bezel serve to further exaggerate its size. Within beats the El Primero caliber 3019 PHC: P for “power”, H for “hour”, and C for “calendar”.
Watch journalism site SJX Watches reinterpreted the G383 in 2021 with a luminous dial cased in the 38mm Chronomaster case—a testament to the timeless appeal of the “Poker Chip”. The present lot is the first instance of Phillips offering the original model from 1970, a wild and wonderful example of 1970s audacity.
ZENITH “Poker Chip”A very rare, fresh-to-market, and well-preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with black galvanic dial, gilt printing, and bracelet, with “new-old-stock” Rolex bezel
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1953
Reference No. 6202; inside caseback additionally marked “6202”, “I.54”, and “18”
Movement No. 05’952
Case No. 950’286
Model Name Submariner “Turn-O-Graph”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. A260, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 80, max overall length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 4.62
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$12,000–24,000
€11,300–22,500
Accessories
Accompanied by period-correct Rolex “new-old-stock” bezel insert.
One of the earliest Rolex sports watches produced in series, the reference 6202 was introduced to the market in 1953, changing the landscape for sports watches forever. Bearing the unwieldy moniker “Turn-O-Graph”, it stayed in production for only a few short years, but its influence was nevertheless long-lasting.
One of the most remarkable innovations was the rotating bezel, calibrated to 60 minutes, allowing for more precise time measurement. Though the 6202 is not the first Rolex wristwatch to be fitted with the rotating bezel, it is the first reference to be widely distributed, and the ancestor of the more specialized Submariner, GMT-Master, and Milgauss. However, soon the demand for the sons came to eclipse that of the father, and the popularity of the latter references overshadowed the small but mighty Turn-O-Graph.
The present watch comes from a small town in Montana. The consignor inherited a local jewelry store from his father, who was also a watchmaker, in the mid 1970s, and the watch was part of that inheritance. As it was without a bezel when the consignor came into possession of it, he sourced a “new-old-stock”, period-correct bezel from a watchmaker in Stockholm, Sweden. Having held onto it for many years, we are delighted that he has trusted Phillips with the sale of this impressively well-preserved, historically important timepiece.
BREITLING A virtually “new old stock” and very attractive, stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and oversized 15-minute register
Manufacturer Breitling Year 1969
Reference No. 7650
Case No. 1’277’914
Model Name Co-Pilot
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 7738, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel buckle
Dimensions 42.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate
$12,000–24,000
€11,300–22,500
Accessories
Accompanied by Breitling Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1969. Further accompanied by original buckle and strap.
Established in 1884, Breitling is best known for their aviationrelated timepieces such as the iconic Navitimer. But the manufacturer was an early pioneer in the development of wristwatch chronographs, with their innovative tool watches supplying armed forces worldwide, as well as timepieces for racing, diving, and leisure activities. The Breitling 765 Co-Pilot was created, as its name suggests, for airplane pilots, who benefited from an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and twelve hour rotating bezel. The Co-Pilot replaced an earlier reference 765 “Digital” that featured a digital minute’s counter at 3 o’clock and incorporated an oversized minute counter fitted with large luminous indicators at each three minute increment. Legibility in low light conditions and accuracy were paramount in the creation of this Co-Pilot, and it was eventually even adopted for military use. In 1965, Breitling launched the reference 7650 Co-Pilot with a larger 42.5mm diameter case and rotating bi-directional black aluminium bezel with 12 hour markers.
The present ref. 7650 Co-Pilot is amongst the finest and bestpreserved examples known, preserved in virtually new, unworn condition. The case retains all of its original and extremely sharp factory finished surfaces, while the “reverse panda” dial and original “sword” hands are beautifully preserved. Remarkably, the luminous bezel triangle remains intact and even the original strap with virtually no signs of wear is included. Dating from 1969, the chronograph is a “museum-quality” example of mid-20th century aviation tool watches that are highly desirable today.
LONGINES A fine and large stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch with luminous “telephone” dial and steel bracelet
Manufacturer Longines Year 1958
Reference No. 6474-5
Movement No. 10’514’917
Case No. 61
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 30CH, 17 jewels, stamped LXW
Bracelet/Strap JB Champion for Longines stainless steel bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel JB Champion for Longines deployant clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker, clasp further signed by bracelet maker.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch and its sale on 10 July 1958 to the company Longines-Wittnauer Watch Co., which was at that time their agent for the USA.
Caliber 30CH is unanimously considered one of the best chronograph movements of the mid twentieth century. Incorporating a flyback function, the movement allows for the chronograph to be instantaneously reset and restarted, enormously useful for practical applications.
Such a hallowed engine is housed—in this instance—in an equally striking case. Standing out with a large, 37.5mm diameter, reference 6474 appears to have a relatively simple case architecture, but closer examination reveals a remarkable level of detail. The bezel, for example, features an incredibly complex construction. Starting from the dial edge, it features a sloped edge, followed by a concave area and then a sharp step. The transition between each of these three parts of the bezel is marked by sharp edges, of course highly sensitive to polishing. In this instance, however, the edges are perfectly preserved and very sharp, testament to the superior condition of this case.
The dial is no less charming, defined primarily by the luminous numerals—now aged to a charming and intense camel hue. The only other graphical indications are the Longines signature and the outer baton fifth-of-a-second combined with Arabic five minute divisions. Such a sparse graphical layout anticipates trends that would become commonplace just a few years later in the 1960s and 1970s.
44. An historically important stainless steel wristwatch with date, “spider” rail dial, 24-hour hand, bracelet, with guarantee, hang tag, and presentation box, made for the Steger International Polar Expedition
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1985
Reference No. 16550
Movement No. 1’069’844
Case No. 8’597’482
Model Name Explorer II, Steger International Polar Expedition
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “593”, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “18”
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$8,000–16,000
€7,500–15,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Rolex New York on June 1985, hang tag, and fitted presentation box.
Literature
Literature: The present watch is featured in The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches by James M. Dowling and Jeffrey P. Hess, page 253
“To the perilous North Pole by dogsled, sextant, and Rolex chronometer,” stated in a 1986 Rolex ad, as seven men and one woman launched an epic 57-day adventure. The 1986 Steger International Polar Expedition was a landmark journey in polar exploration led by the American adventurer, Will Steger. The grueling, 57-day expedition succeeded in traversing the entire Arctic Ocean via dog sled, covering a distance of over 3,700 miles from the northernmost point of Alaska to the northern coast of Greenland. This ambitious venture marked the first confirmed, unsupported traversing of the Arctic Ocean without re-supply. As the Rolex ad stated, “. . . the Steger Expedition shatters another precedent. Member Ann Bancroft becomes the first woman to trek to the point where all longitudinal lines meet.”
Engraved on its caseback “1986 Steger International Polar Expedition”, the present Explorer II reference 16550 is believed to have been engraved and presented by Rolex USA to a member of this expedition team, in accordance with this famous advertisement.
Accompanied with its original guarantee stamped “Rolex New York”, the present watch remains in well-preserved condition. It features what collectors have dubbed a “spider dial”. With minor fissures developing over the lacquered surface, such “spidering” is considered a charming characteristic found in black dial examples of the reference from this era. An extremely rare, historically significant, and complete Rolex NY-“issued” timepiece, it’s the ideal watch for collectors seeking a watch with an incredible story.
An extremely rare and desirable stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1991
Reference No. 16520; inside caseback stamped 16500
Movement No. 62’852
Case No. N’323’574
Model Name Oyster Cosmograph Daytona “Tiffany & Co.”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, max overall length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78360, stamped ‘P12’
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed. Dial additionally signed by retailer.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000
€28,200–56,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex and Tiffany & Co. presentation boxes.
Some of the rarest, most historically important and valuable Rolex wristwatches have been sold through the American retailer Tiffany & Co. The present watch featuring the jeweler’s signature is an extraordinarily rare specimen. The jeweler has proudly emblazoned its logo on a variety of Rolex wristwatches, ranging from the GMT-Master to the Cosmograph Daytona. Historically, the storied boutique has been the destination for collectors in pursuit of the finest and most attractive wristwatches.
Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most desirable models. Housing a heavily modified Zenith El Primero-based caliber to become the Rolex caliber 4030, the model was the first automatic chronograph in the firm’s history. At the time of its launch in 1988, the watch garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers.
An ”N” serial dating from 1991, the present Rolex Cosmograph Daytona features a coveted “inverted 6” dial with extremely fine serifs on all graphics indicating a highly coveted, early production Singer-made dial, and a correct Tiffany & Co. signature. Its early and original Oyster bracelet, with brushed center links, remains fitted, giving the watch a vintage appeal. The case is preserved in excellent condition, and accompanied by a Tiffany & Co. and Rolex outer box.
A very fine and attractive platinum chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 2021
Reference No. 116506
Case No. Q17003G8
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Platona”
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Rolex Oyster bracelet, max overall length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$70,000–140,000
€65,700–131,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex International Guarantee dated December 24, 2021, fitted Rolex presentation box, leather wallet, product literature and outer packaging
The reference 116506 was introduced at Baselworld in 2013 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona model, and was the first Daytona offered by the brand to be encased in the noblest of metals—platinum. Sporting an extremely attractive ice blue dial exclusively used on platinum models by Rolex, the Cerachrom bezel contrasts with a charming hint of chestnut brown, transcending the whole appearance of the timepiece. Nearly a decade later, the socalled “Platona” remains as relevant and fresh as it did in 2013 when it surprised and delighted collectors. Now discontinued, the present example from 2021 is complete with guarantee and presentation box.
47. An extremely rare and exceptional limited edition “Netherlands Edition” white gold chronograph wristwatch with provenance letter
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2010
Reference No. 116519
Movement No. C0’566’241
Case No. 4W’2X3’990, case interior stamped 2119
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Netherlands Edition”
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000 Σ
€75,100–150,000
Accessories
Accompanied by signed provenance letter from Sander Boschker.
Phillips is honoured to offer this extremely rare, limited edition “Netherlands Edition” Daytona Cosmograph, celebrating the 2010 FIFA World Cup South Africa second place title holder. Rolex is known to occasional accept special commission models, such as the 2008 “Italian Police Divers Corps” Sea-Dweller, or the 2014 100th anniversary of the Panama Canal Yacht-Master II. The present orange-accented Daytona was conceived by team captain Giovanni van Bronckhorst during the Dutch team’s quest for victory during the 2010 World Cup. Rolex accepted the proposal and extraordinarily agreed to manufacture 30 examples of its flagship, white gold Daytona model. Fifteen watches would be made with leather strap like the present 116519, and fifteen pieces would be made with white gold bracelet, reference 116509.
The “Netherland Edition” Cosmograph Daytona is unmistakable for the dial’s orange highlights, a color rarely if ever used by Rolex. Orange is found throughout Dutch culture in honor of the Netherlands’ reigning House of Orange-Nassau. The black dial is complimented by the orange outer track and orange graduations on the subsidiary dials with orange hands. The case backs were engraved with the World Cup 2010 logo, along with the squad number and team player name for this particular watch “Boschker 22”. Sander Boschker is a former Dutch team member who retired at the 2013-2014 season.
The present Daytona is offered in excellent overall condition, and presents collectors with an extremely rare opportunity to own an almost unheard-of Rolex Daytona with a custom, factorymade dial. It is a tribute to the proud Dutch team with their excellence on the field mirrored in the excellence of the Rolex’s Daytona chronograph.
Ref. 116519 Cosmograph Daytona “FIFA World Cup 2010—Netherlands”
An incredibly rare, highly important, and superbly attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne dial and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany
Combining one of the scarcest Daytona models—reference 6264, produced for a very short period in the early 1970s, an uncommon 14k yellow gold case, and the extremely soughtafter Tiffany & Co. signature, the present watch is amongst the most prestigious, rarest, and hardest to find of all vintage Daytona configurations.
Compared with the predecessor ref. 6241, ref. 6264 features a slightly larger case, the use of the upgraded Rolex caliber 727, bezel with black acrylic insert, and pump pushers. Due to the reference’s very short production period, the reference is already one of the rarest Daytona models ever made. Yellow gold models further elevate this rarity, and 14k gold examples such as the present watch are rarely ever seen.
Research suggests that Rolex watches delivered to the United States were cased in 14K yellow gold due to lower import tariffs compared with 18k gold. Considering that the present watch was retailed at Tiffany & Co., this makes perfect sense. Intriguingly enough, this example bearing case no. 2’802’743 is only 5 numbers apart from the only other 14K gold 6264 retailed by Tiffany& Co. sold by Phillips—no. 2’801’738, suggesting these watches might have been part of an extremely restricted singular batch.
An incredibly rare, highly important, and superbly attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne dial and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1971
Reference No. 6264
Case No. 2’802’743
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Tiffany & Co.”
Material 14K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 14K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle 14K yellow gold Rolex clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$200,000–400,000
€188,000–376,000
Literature
A similar watch with serial number 2’802’738 is prominently displayed in Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, page 6.
The case has been preserved in very good condition, with 14K gold hallmarks, including a squirrel punched under the lug—a subtle piece of “intellectual candy” for the most cerebral collectors. Without a doubt however, the dial is the star of the show. Aesthetically stunning in its configuration, the gold dial with black subsidiary dials superbly complements the black bezel and gold case. The bold Tiffany & Co. signature stands out prominently due its striking contrast with the gold dial as well as the lack of a “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” designation at 6 o’clock. The present watch is offered for the first time at public auction, and can certainly be considered a trophy watch for the discerning connoisseur.
fine and attractive limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds and Certificate of Origin
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year Circa 2017
Reference No. 5522A-001
Movement No. 7’092’575
Case No. 6’208’910
Model Name Calatrava Pilot
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated October 3rd, 2017, hang tag, leather envelope and product literature.
In 2012, Patek Philippe launched an extraordinary world tour exhibition displaying some of their finest timepieces, starting in Dubai with the inaugural “Watch Art Grand Exhibition”. This would be followed by Munich in 2013 with “Grand Exhibition KunstWerkUhr”, London in 2015 held at the prestigious Saatchi Gallery, and then, “The Art of Watches Grand Exhibition 2017” held in the heart of New York City. These exhibitions were a massive success, and a wonderful opportunity for collectors and enthusiasts from around the world to see some of the most extraordinary and exciting horological works of art ever produced by Patek Philippe. In celebration of the New York exhibition, Patek Philippe produced nine limited edition timepieces that were only sold in the US. They ranged from a superb minute-repeating world-time wristwatch, to this highly attractive, time-only stainless steel reference 5522A, made in just 600 examples.
Referencing their past, and the iconic Calatrava wristwatch first released in 1932, the Calatrava Pilot was named for its 1930s vibe and vintage aviator-style dial aesthetic. The dial, similar to the reference 5524G Pilot’s Travel watch released in 2015, features applied 18-karat white gold Arabic numerals, and blued steel, luminous hands. The 42mm diameter case has a sapphire crystal back engraved “Patek Philippe New York 2017”, through which the automatic caliber 324 SC can be seen. The watch has a timeless and masculine appeal making it a perfect everyday timepiece.
The present example is in excellent overall condition with very light signs of wear. It is offered complete with its Certificate of Origin dated 2017.
Ref. 5522A-001 Calatrava “New York”
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 2007
Reference No. 5130P-001
Movement No. 4’435’490
Case No. 3’640’824
Model Name World Time
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240 HU, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K platinum Patek Philippe clasp
Dimensions 39.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000 Σ
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated October 12, 2007, leather envelope, original sales receipt, and product literature
Released in 2006, Patek Philippe’s reference 5130 World Time is the second modern iteration of their famous world time model. The successor of the reference 5110, the new model featured the same caliber 240 HU but housed in a larger case size at 39.5mm in diameter, compared to 37mm for the earlier model. The World Time was initially developed by Louis Cottier in 1935, who engineered a system of inner rotating discs indicating 24 cities covering all major time zones. Fast forward to modern times, the mechanism remains largely unchanged due to its simple practicality and ease of use.
First released in yellow, pink and white gold, the platinum 5130 like the present lot, followed in 2007. With a modern aesthetic, the timepiece is instantly adjustable by a simple press of the pusher at 10 o’clock and is notable because Patek Philippe chose to keep the ring-shaped hour hand as a tribute to their historic world time watch design. The reference was discontinued in 2016 and replaced by the reference 5230 with a 38.5mm diameter case.
The present model from 2007, the first year of production, is in excellent overall condition, and complete with Certificate of Origin and original sales receipt. With its blue grey guilloché dial, Patek Philippe’s World Time 5130P is an innovative and highly functional modern timepiece for the world traveler. 50. A fine and attractive platinum world time wristwatch with guilloché dial and Certificate of Origin
An attractive and fine white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication, moon phase, and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin and presentation box, retailed by Beyer
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 2014
Reference No. 5136/1G-001
Movement No. 3’126’601
Case No. 4’253’329
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240Q, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, approximate overall length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe clasp
Dimensions 36.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$20,000–30,000
€18,800–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated June 4, 2004 and stamped Beyer Chronometrie AG, wooden presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe is renowned for their legendary line of perpetual calendar wristwatches with moon phase dating back to 1941 with the release of the first serialised model, the reference 1526. Complicated and sublime in its “Calatrava” style case, this model was the first in a series of important 20th century timepieces demonstrating Patek Philippe’s excellence in horology. The reference 5136 was released in 2003 as a new perpetual calendar wristwatch for the new millennium, and an upgrade to the reference 3945, which was first introduced in 1987 with bracelet, and a larger, more contemporary case design.
The reference 5136 was available until 2008 in both yellow and white gold with superb, detachable gold bracelets, powered by the automatic caliber 240Q movement with microrotor. The present example from circa 2004 is accompanied by the original Certificate of Origin, and stamped Beyer Chronometrie AG. The reference is rarely seen in the marketplace with only approximately 20 known examples.
Ref. 5136/1G Perpetual
A fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 2015
Reference No. 5711/1A-010
Movement No. 5’868’987
Case No. 6’040’480
Model Name Nautilus
Material Stainless Steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, stamped A384EBC, max overall length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated April 8, 2015, wooden fitted presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Introduced in 2006, the reference 5711 featured new innovations and updated the Nautilus for modern times, with some slight variations between it and the original reference 3700. Instead of the original two-piece monobloc case, the 5711 was constructed with a three-piece case that allowed for easier assembly, servicing, and an exhibition caseback. It also measured 1mm wider than the original 3700, and was 0.7mm thicker. The 5711 was powered by an in-house self-winding movement, the robust caliber 324 SC, which included a center seconds indication for the first time. A higher-grade of steel was used for improved corrosion resistance, and the bracelet was upgraded and refined, with the center links slightly flattened and the buckle now triple folding.
Arguably one of the most coveted modern timepieces and recently discontinued, the present example is offered by its original owner and complete with all its original accessories.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A very fine and unusual white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, moon phase, retrograde date, hand-engraved case, hinged back, Certificate of Origin and presentation box, single-sealed
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2020
Reference No. 5160/500G-001
Movement No. 7’061’152
Case No. 6’282’408
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S QR, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold hand-engraved Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$70,000–140,000 Σ
€65,700–131,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, Rare Handcraft Certificate of Authenticity, setting pin, product literature, leather wallet, wooden presention box with special decoration, and outer packaging.
The reference 5160 represents a contemporary interpretation of Patek Philippe’s rich heritage, particularly drawing inspiration from its predecessors—the references 5159 and 5059.
Retaining the “Officier” style case of the previous model, reminiscent of early 20th-century watches with hinged casebacks, the ref. 5160 elevates the design with exquisitely hand-engraved arabesque motifs reminiscent of the Belle Époque era. Introduced in 2010 and crafted in yellow, pink, and white gold—with the white gold variant being the only one currently available in the catalog—the intricate craftsmanship required for the case, achievable only by a select few skilled artisans, naturally results in extremely limited production of the model. Additionally, it features a distinctive detail not found in the yellow and pink gold versions: the grooves of the engravings are filled with oxidized silver powder, creating a striking, dark effect that enhances the contrast of the engraved elements.
Presented in new, factory single-sealed condition, the present white gold version is offered complete with all of its accessories.
Ref. 5160/500G Perpetual Calendar “Single Sealed”
54. A well-preserved and highly coveted white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, 24-hour indicator, leap year indicator, Certificate of Origin, additional caseback, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year 2004
Reference No. 5970G-001
Movement No. 4’274’618
Case No. 3’047’392
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 27-70 Q, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$100,000–200,000
€93,900–188,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated December 8, 2004, product literature, leather folio, additional exhibition caseback, setting pin, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Frequently dubbed as “one of the best watches ever made,” the Patek Philippe reference 5970 is a proud heir to Patek Philippe’s prestigious perpetual calendar chronographs. As the first model developed and designed by Thierry Stern upon his accession as president of the company, reference 5970 was first introduced in white gold, like the present watch, and then in pink gold, with later variations in yellow gold and platinum. Produced from 2004 until 2011, it was the last perpetual calendar chronograph model from Patek Philippe to use the Lemania 2310-based movement.
The design of the 5970 takes cues from the past but interprets them in a thoroughly modern way. Forty millimeters in diameter with faceted lugs, it was a notable increase in size from its immediate predecessor, the reference 3970. Still, the larger case does not jeopardize the symmetry and comfort of the watch at all; on the contrary, the watch is extremely wearable and retains a very balanced symmetry.
Preserved in excellent condition having, in our opinion, never been polished, with its full set of accessories including the Certificate of Origin and additional caseback, the present example is a wonderful opportunity to purchase a model that is dubbed by the collector community as one of the greatest Patek Philippe wristwatches of the modern era.
Ref. 5970G Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
AUDEMARS PIGUET A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with Gay Frères bracelet and Extract
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 1971
Reference No. 5273
Movement No. 125’815
Case No. 65’780
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2120, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel, signed Gay Frères and Audemars Piguet, stamped 1.70, max. length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel deployant clasp, with gold applied AP logo
Dimensions 34mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, bracelet further signed GF for Gay Frères.
Estimate
$5,000–10,000
€4,700–9,400
Accessories
Accompanied by PDF Extract from the Archives of Audemars Piguet confirming production of the present watch on October 29th, 1971.
While the Royal Oak stands tall as Audemars Piguet’s emblematic masterpiece, the brand’s repertoire extends far beyond this iconic timepiece. Despite the allure of complications and intricate mechanisms, the understated elegance of Audemars Piguet’s time-only watches offers a compelling narrative of craftsmanship and design.
The present example features the automatic AP calibre 2120 with a screw down caseback. It impresses with an ultra-thin case, making this an extremely versatile watch, equally suitable for casual or formal attire. Fitted with a silvered dial, the applied baton hour markers and hands are accented with a black lacquered finish. Rarely seen in stainless steel, it is fitted with an original Audemars Piguet bracelet made by Gay Frères.
This watch is simultaneously sporty and elegant due to its classic design. Preserved in exceptional condition, this uncommon, rare watch offers excellent value for any collector.
56. VACHERON CONSTANTIN A highly unusual and rare yellow gold twenty-dollar “Liberty” coin wristwatch with Extract from the Archives
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year 1983
Reference No. 33019
Movement No. 722’949
Case No. 566’312
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 9’’ – 103, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Gold plated stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 35mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$6,000–12,000
€5,600–11,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives.
Vacheron Constantin is renowned for their mastery of the art of creating coin watches in either pocket watch or wrist watch form, using a variety of coins from around the globe. Crafted in 1983 and fashioned from an American $20 “Liberty” head gold coin dating back to 1904, this reference 33019 ingeniously transforms the coin into a horological masterpiece.
A small pusher on the right side of the case opens the lid and reveals the watch, the latter on a hinge that can be lifted and even used as a table clock.
Housed within is Vacheron Constantin’s ultra slim calibre 1003, launched in 1955 for the brand’s 200th anniversary, which at 1.64mm, was the world’s thinnest manual wind movement for decades.
What sets this timepiece apart is not only its historic significance but also its relevance to modern tastes. While a 35mm coin might have been inconvenient for carrying in a pocket, it emerges as a perfect-sized dress watch, aligning with the contemporary trend of smaller timepieces making a resurgence.
Fitted with a sunburst champagne dial, the present $20 Liberty Coin Wristwatch is well-preserved and a coveted item for discerning collectors who appreciate the convergence of heritage, craftsmanship, and contemporary taste in an uncommon timepiece.
A rare, early, and very well preserved yellow gold skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase and presentation box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 1990s
Reference No. 25558BA
Movement No. 227’072
Case No. No. 82 and C3636
Model Name Quantième Perpétual Automatique
Material 18K yellow Gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2021/1, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000 Σ
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted leather presentation box and outer packaging.
The AP reference 5516 was the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication, of which only nine were produced, succeeded by the later reference 5548, with caliber 2120, introduced 1978.
The caliber 2120 is one of the most recognized movements in horology known for its long history and jointly developed by Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe. The movement for decades was the thinnest automatic movement with central rotor, and distinguished by the 21K gold rimmed rotor. Based on the success of the reference 5548, Audemars Piguet released the reference 25558, their first skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch. Research indicates 217 examples were made with 154 in yellow gold like the present example.
These fully skeletonized watches allowed for a breath taking view of the movement from both the front and back. They exemplified the very best of Swiss watchmaking, where nonessential metal from all of the movement’s plates and bridges were removed, and all remaining “skeletal” parts were hand engraved and finished.
The present yellow gold timepiece is incredibly striking displaying the month, day, date and moonphase through the sapphire crystal dial. The black numerals and blue moon phase sector contrast nicely against the yellow gold case. The watch is in excellent overall condition and was recently serviced by Audemars Piguet. At 36 millimeters, the case size is perfect for any occasion, making the reference 25558 a wonderful watch for the connoisseur.
A very rare and fine limited edition pink gold minute repeating reversible wristwatch with guarantee and box, numbered 89 of a limited edition of 500 pieces
Manufacturer Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year 1999
Reference No. 270.2.73
Case No. 89/500
Model Name Reverso Répétition Minutes
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 943, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Jaeger-LeCoultre deployant clasp
Dimensions 26mm width x 36.5mm length
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Certificate of Guarantee, manual, guarantee booklets, presentation box, sales memo, suede pouch, magazine article, and gloves.
Since its inception in 1931, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has evolved into one of the most iconic models within the esteemed company’s repertoire. Commemorating its 60th anniversary in 1991, a limited series of six models was introduced over the course of a decade, each featuring one of the classical complications.
Unveiled as a limited edition of 500 pieces in 1994, the Reverso Répétition Minutes exudes class, elegance, and sophistication, showcasing one of the most cherished and complex complications—the minute repeater. Serving as the firm’s inaugural minute repeating wristwatch and driven by the manual calibre 943 crafted by the esteemed watchmaker Eric Coudray, the chime is both magnificent and resonant, a remarkable feat given its modest case size. The classic design is further accentuated with a silver dial with guilloche center.
The present example is numbered 89 out of 500, and is presented in outstanding overall condition, complete with its full set of accessories. For collectors seeking an elegant minute repeating wristwatch with an enduring iconic appeal, this is an opportunity not to be overlooked.
A very fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date and integrated bracelet
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin Year 1977
Reference No. 44018/411
Movement No. 684’745
Case No. 522’027
Model Name 222
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000
€28,200–56,300
Launched in 1977 to commemorate the 222nd anniversary of Vacheron Constantin’s founding, the reference 44018, otherwise known as the 222, is part of what would later be known as the “Holy Trinity” of luxury sports watches. This trilogy was composed of the Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak from 1972, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus from 1976, and Vacheron Constantin’s 222 from 1977.
The Vacheron Constantin 222 was available in either stainless steel, yellow gold or a combination of stainless steel and yellow gold. Made in incredibly low production numbers and produced for only seven short years, research shows that the stainless steel model, like the present example, was made in less than 500 examples. Its tonneau case features a clever two-piece construction opened by a screwed-in porthole type fluted bezel giving it a 120m water resistance.
Within the 222 lies the ultra-thin, automatic calibre 1121, Vacheron Constantin’s modified version of the renowned Jaeger LeCoultre calibre 920 also used in the earliest Patek Philippe Nautilus models and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo”.
The present Vacheron Constantin reference 44018 is preserved in excellent overall condition and is ideal for the discerning collector seeking the uncommon.
A very fine and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar
wristwatch with leap year indication, moon phase, certificate, and presentation box
Manufacturer Daniel Roth
Year Circa 1990
Reference No. C117
Movement No. 21
Case No. 21
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. DR114, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Daniel Roth deployant clasp
Dimensions 38mm length x 35mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000 Σ
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Daniel Roth Certificate of Origin and Ownership, fitted wooden presentation box, setting pin and outer packaging.
Daniel Roth was one of the earliest watchmakers to embark on his own, fully independent career, creating contemporary, complicated timepieces, now highly sought after for their design and mechanical innovation.
In the early 1990s, Daniel Roth sought to create a perpetual calendar wristwatch for his signature double-ellipse case. Roughly at the same time in 1992, legendary watchmaker Philippe Dufour announced his decision to become completely independent and create timepieces under his own name. Residing just down the road from each other, it was inevitable for the two to work together and collaborate.
With the acceptance from Dufour, the two set out to create the Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar ref. C117. The foundation of choice was the reliable and robust Lemania caliber 8810, which they used as a base with modifications made by Dufour to fit inside the unusual dimensions of the double-ellipse case. Described as hard work even for someone of his skill, the pair was not only developing a regular perpetual calendar but also aimed to create the world’s first instantaneous perpetual calendar where all indicators would change instantly once the hands passed midnight. Both Roth and Dufour quickly realized that too much energy was required to achieve the feature and the day and month apertures had to be changed to subsidiary dials.
The present example in yellow gold is a rare, early variant with two apertures for the day and month, pre-dating the fully instantaneous design, and instead implementing a “semi-instantaneous” perpetual calendar. The watch is in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin and wooden presentation box and is a wonderful representation of Roth’s philosophy for technical prowess with exceptional design.
Ref. C117 Perpetual Calendar
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2020
Reference No. 26595SR.OO.A032V.01
Movement No. AV2’573
Case No. T’Y57’73Y
Model Name (Re)Master 01 Self Winding Chronograph
Material 18K pink gold and stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal.4099, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000 Σ
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty card, product literature, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Heritage, vintage re-issue, and tribute watches are common in the 21st century watchmaking landscape, as brands seek to reintroduce and spotlight the designs of their past. But not often are these past inspirations reworked to the extent of the [RE] Master 01, a limited edition of 500 pieces released by Audemars Piguet in 2020. It took the public by surprise when the stainless steel and 18K pink gold vintage reference 1533 was rendered in modern livery.
Phillips had the great honor of selling two reference 1533s, in 2015 and 2018, respectively, one with a rose dial and one with a green-gold dial. The [RE]Master 01 is a specific reinterpretation of the latter example, purchased by the brand’s Heritage Department at that auction. Though the case and movement have been modernized, the delicate layout of the dial remains distinctly true to the original, with the red “45”-minute indicator on the minute counter, the elongated Art Deco-style Arabic numerals, and the extended brand signature in period font.
While the basic design codes of the original case are upheld in the tear drop lugs and two-tone steel and gold case, it has been upsized to a more modern 40mm diameter. The addition of a sapphire caseback allows Audemars Piguet’s in-house caliber 4409 automatic chronograph movement to be viewed at one’s leisure—a marked change from the vintage manually wound caliber 13VZAH. This spectacular rendition of the past is offered here in like new condition with its full complement of original paperwork and accessories.
(RE)Master 01 Self-Winding Chronograph
A very rare and fine limited edition white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with equation of time, time of sunrise and sunset, and moon phase with presentation box, made for the William J Clinton Foundation
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2007
Reference No. 26258BC
Movement No. 550’120
Case No. G38595
Model Name Jules Audemars Equation of Time, The White House
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2120-2808, 41 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold AP clasp
Dimensions 43mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000 Σ
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet William J. Clinton Foundation wooden automatic presentation box, instruction book, setting pin, magnifying glass, box key, product literature with CD and outer packaging. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming register date December 6, 2007.
The Jules Audemars Piguet Equation of Time was released in 2000 as a tribute to one of the firm’s founding two members and their commitment to exceptional horology. An extremely complicated timepiece with perpetual calendar, equation of time calibrated to the location featured on the recessed inner ring around the dial, and daily indication of sunrise and sunset linked to the perpetual calendar complication.
The present Jules Audemars Clinton Foundation Equation of Time continued the brands long-standing commitment to philanthropy, which when originally sold, a portion of the sale proceeds benefitted the Clinton Foundation. Originally released in 2007 the watch celebrated the 42nd US President with a limited edition of 42 examples each in platinum, rose gold, and white gold like the present model. The timepiece is uniquely calibrated for the White House and branded for the former President with the dial inner ring marked “The White House 12h08’”, and the back case engraved “William J. Clinton 42nd President of the United States”.
The present example is in excellent overall condition and accompanied by an Audemars Piguet extract from the archives and Clinton Foundation wooden presentation box.
The Clinton Foundation works with partners to make a difference in people’s lives across the United Stated and the world with programs in leadership and public service, climate change, education and public health.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A very attractive and ultra-thin platinum and titanium perpetual calendar wristwatch with integrated bracelet, leap year indicator, moon phase, certificate of origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 2019
Reference No. 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01
Movement No. AU9396
Case No. XT5350K
Model Name Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Material Platinum, titanium
Calibre Automatic, cal. 5133, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Titanium Audemars Piguet bracelet with polished platinum links, numbered 1240, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$100,000–200,000
€93,900–188,000
Accessories
Accompanied by International Warranty Card, fitted presentation box, additional self-winding mechanism, setting pin, two additional links, product literature and outer packaging.
In 2018, Audemars Piguet unveiled the RD#2, with “RD” signifying “Research and Development,” a department dedicated to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking through technological advancements and breakthroughs.
At a mere 2.89mm thickness, the RD#2’s movement surpassed even the simplest three-hand ultra-thin caliber already in production at the time. Audemars Piguet then reduced the case thickness to a remarkable 6.3mm, subtly altering the iconic octagonal Royal Oak shape to integrate the perpetual calendar mechanism seamlessly. The traditional petite tapisserie dial, synonymous with Royal Oak designs, was entirely omitted, opting instead for a sleek, futuristic matte blue dial, possibly to reduce dial thickness to the minimum. The outcome is undeniably contemporary, distinguishing the reference 26586IP from other Royal Oak perpetual calendar models currently available.
At the heart of the RD#2 Perpetual Calendar is the perpetual calendar complication, a hallmark of haute horology that accurately tracks the date, day, month, leap year, and moon phase. What further sets this timepiece apart is the meticulous attention to detail and the innovative use of materials—the combination of polished platinum and brushed titanium results in a timepiece that exudes elegance while embracing modernity and functionality.
Offered in excellent condition and complete with all of its accompanying accessories, this is a rare and not-to-be-missed opportunity to obtain one of the most aesthetically pleasing and technically sophisticated timepieces from Audemars Piguet.
64.
A very fine and attractive limited edition platinum wristwatch with date, commemorating Seiko’s 140th anniversary, number 63 of 140 examples
Manufacturer Grand Seiko
Year Circa 2023
Reference No. SLGH007
Movement No. 10’003’516
Case No. No. 063/140
Model Name Hi-Beat
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 9DSA5, 36000 VPN, 47 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Grand Seiko platinum deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000 Σ
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Grand Seiko Inspection Certificate, Limited Warranty card, fitted wooden presentation box, hang tag, product literature and outer packaging.
Grand Seiko introduced their caliber 9SA5 in 2020 as one of their most advanced automatic movements produced to-date, featuring a dual impulse escapement. Similar to the co-axial escapement by George Daniels, the dual impulse mechanism provides two impulses, one at the entry and one at the exit points of the escapement, which reduces friction and energy loss enabling improved accuracy and efficiency. Fifteen percent slimmer via a novel, horizontal layout of the barrel and gear train, this innovative caliber demonstrates the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking and achieving new levels of precision and performance. When first released, the caliber was used in two limited edition models, however in 2021 was used in the production of their Heritage Collection.
In 2021, Grand Seiko released the present limited edition platinum 140th anniversary “Hi-Beat” wristwatch in honour of the founding of the company by Kintaro Hattori. The watch is exquisitely finished and features the famed caliber 9SA5. Similar to other exceptional Grand Seiko timepieces, the love of and celebration of nature is embedded in the design. The Shizukuishi manufacture center is set in nature, and is a source of inspiration, and the dial of the present watch is inspired by the rings of a Cedar tree. The dial has a swirling pattern that transform in color depending on how light hits it, but has a look and feel of textured wood grain.
One of only 140 examples made, the present watch is in excellent overall condition and probably only worn a handful of times. It is accompanied by its certificate and presentation box.
A very fine and rare white gold, diamond and garnet-set wristwatch with belt time indicators, international warranty and presentation box, numbered 89 of a limited edition of 100 pieces
Manufacturer Harry Winston
Year 2009
Reference No. 500/MAJMWWL
Case No. 046101; No. 089/100
Model Name Opus 9
Material 18K white gold, diamonds and garnets
Calibre Automatic
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Harry Winston pin buckle
Dimensions 48mm width x 56mm length
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000 Σ
€46,900–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Opus warranty card and booklet, manual, leather slip case, and Harry Winston presentation box.
The Opus collection by Harry Winston has long been synonymous with daring innovation, imaginative craftsmanship, and pioneering watchmaking. This series marked a groundbreaking collaboration between Harry Winston and independent watchmakers, aimed at crafting a range of limited edition, distinctive, and unconventional timepieces. The initiative commenced in 1998 when Max Büsser assumed the role of director of rare timepieces at Harry Winston. In 2009, the ninth piece of the series, the Opus 9, was unveiled in collaboration with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht & Eric Giroud.
Using 66 baguette-cut diamonds (~2.15 carats in total) and 6 garnet stones (~0.22 carat in total), the Opus 9 was the first timepiece of the celebrated Opus series to use precious stones for the purpose of telling time.
With a rack and pinion mechanism which converts rotational time into a linear display, the telling of time is propelled through the gliding movement of two parallel chains—each adorned with 33 diamonds and 3 garnet stones. Encased in transparent sapphire crystal, the watch offers a poetic view of time elapsing, allowing the observer to admire the movement of the gem-set belts from all angles. The minimalist display’s aesthetic is maintained by concealing a robust automatic movement within.
With a large and sculptural white gold case, the Opus 9 exudes character and presence. Accordingly, in 2009, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève presented the “Design Watch Prize” to Harry Winston in recognition of the technical and aesthetic finesse of the Opus 9 The present watch numbered 89 of a limited edition of 100, is extremely well preserved and comes complete with all accessories.
Numbered 005; An early, attractive, and technically impressive platinum chronograph wristwatch with 100th of a second, 20-seconds, and 10-minute registers, with guarantee and presentation box, sold to benefit charity
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2008
Case No. 005-CT
Model Name Centigraphe Souverain
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1506, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe certificate of authenticity card dated December 11th 2008, original invoice dated December 11th 2008, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
The Centigraphe Souverain was first introduced in 2007, and immediately made a statement in the industry. Packed with technical brilliance and ingenuity, the introduction of the model further elevated Mr. Journe’s creations into the formidable elite of haute horlogerie. With early examples encased in a 40mm case, such as the present lot, an updated version featured a slightly larger 42mm case.
Powered by the in-house cal. 1506 composed of 18K gold bridges and plates, the complex movement enables the dial to display an unconventional chronograph with 100th of a second register, 20 seconds register and a 10 minute register. The pusher activates and deactivates the chronograph, with the three registers activated at the same time. Instantaneously bringing one’s attention to the dial, the 100th of a second register is perhaps the point of fascination that most will be mesmerized by. With the chronographic hand moving at such high speed, another interesting note is that the movement architecture features a mechanism within that isolates the chronograph from its time keeping system, meaning that the amplitude would not be affected when the chronograph is activated.
The stealthy combination of platinum case and white gold dial gets an added touch of excitement with red accents within the subsidiary registers. Consigned by the original owner, the present Centigraphe, numbered 005, is the fifth example ever made, and preserved in like new condition with all of its original accessories.
All proceeds from the hammer price result will be donated by the consignor to UNICEF.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A fresh-to-market and exceptionally well-preserved “fourth series” tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’egalité, white gold dial, brass movement, guarantee card, and presentation box
Tourbillon Souverain “Brass Movement”
Fascinated by tourbillon watches, Francois-Paul Journe decided to transpose Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention into a wristwatch but also to improve it with the addition of a remontoire system—a constant force device used to provide an equal amount of energy regardless of the winding level of the mainspring, resulting in greater accuracy. It was the first time that these innovations had been combined and integrated into a wristwatch.
The first prototype was completed in 1991 with little, if any fanfare from the industry. He revisited his tourbillon wristwatch in 1999 to fund the launch of his eponymous brand as a Souscription series for his first twenty tourbillon wristwatches, each individually numbered on the dial and offered to his close friends and clients.
The early Tourbillon Souverain models with brass movements, like the present example, can be split into four series:
1st Series—Souscription (1999) 20 numbered examples in platinum
2nd Series (1999) estimated run of 17 examples in platinum with rounded remontoir bridge and addition of “Remontoir d’Egalité” on the dial
3rd Series (1999–2001) estimated run of 60 examples in platinum and pink gold, with flat remontoir bridge and larger power reserve numerals.
4th Series (2001–2003) estimated run of 320 examples in platinum and pink gold, with smaller dial screws.
A fresh-to-market and exceptionally well-preserved “fourth series” tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’egalité, white gold dial, brass movement, guarantee card, and presentation box
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2003
Case No. No. 190-02T
Model Name Tourbillon Souverain
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1498, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle strap signed.
Estimate
$180,000–360,000
€169,000–338,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe guarantee card dated December 9th, 2003, instruction manual, F.P. Journe platinum deployant clasp, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
Fresh-to-market, consigned by the original owner and complete with all its original accessories, the present 4th Series Tourbillon Souverain in platinum with a lustrous white gold dial is numbered 190-02T, and was purchased in 2003 at the F.P. Journe boutique in Geneva.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
Tourbillon Souverain “Brass Movement”
A like-new and very attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with baguette diamond-set indexes, “sundust” dial, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 2021
Reference No. 116505
Case No. 89’3Z8’498
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K pink gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max overall length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 6ZE
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000
€28,200–56,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex international guarantee card dated November 3rd, 2021, leather cardholder, warranty booklet, product literature, white hang tag, wax seal tag, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
First introduced in 2005, Rolex’s proprietary pink gold alloy, “Everose”, incorporates a unique ratio of gold, copper, and palladium that ensures that the “pinkness” of the gold will never fade. The present reference 116505, fitted as it is with a luxurious bracelet, celebrates the alloy with a monochrome effect. The complementary dial, so-called “sundust” by Rolex, is a sunray finished copper-pink hue set with elegant baguette diamond indexes.
Few Rolex Daytonas with this configuration have surfaced at auction, and the present example is preserved in nearnew condition with its factory caseback and clasp stickers in place. Dated from 2021 and accompanied with its full set of accessories, this combination of Everose bracelet and sundust diamond dial is no longer available from Rolex.
A rare and very fine set of two limited-edition gold wristwatches with large date, power reserve and moon phase with international guarantees, hang tags and presentation boxes, both numbered 73 of 101 examples
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year 2003
Reference No. 119.032
Movement No. White gold: 39’276; Pink gold: 39’087
Case No. White gold: 152’573; Pink gold: 152’373 Both engraved 73/101
Model Name Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi
Material 18K white gold and 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. L901.8 and L901.7. 54 jewels each
Bracelet/Strap Both Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold and 18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckles
Dimensions 41mm Diameter each
Signed Cases, dials, movements and buckles signed.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000
€28,200–56,300
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne International Guarantees, wooden fitted Luna Mundi presentation box, numbered 73/101, hang tags, two setting pins, two travel boxes, leather envelopes, product literature and outer packaging
The Grande Lange 1 collection was introduced in 2003 as a larger 41mm diameter version of the original Lange 1 model introduced in 1994 featuring a 38.5mm diameter case. The Lange 1 had nearly perfect proportions and was well-balanced with an offset time display and oversized calendar that was easy to read. In the same year as the launch of the Grande Lange 1, A. Lange & Söhne also released the limited-edition Grande Lange 1 Luna Mundi, their first two watch set.
Each one of these timepieces correctly and accurately indicates the moon’s position as seen from different hemispheres. The white gold model features the Ursa Major constellation on the dial and depicts the phases of the moon as seen in the Northern Hemisphere whereas the pink gold model features the Southern Cross and depicts the phases of the moon in the Southern Hemisphere. The watchmakers and engineers at Lange devised a very accurate system for the indication of the moonphase that moves continuously (as opposed to most common versions found where the moon jumps an increment once or twice a day) and are so accurate that they need to be set once every 122 years.
The present set, number 73 of 101 timepieces, houses the caliber L901.8 in the white gold model with 398 components, while the 18K pink gold watch is fitted with the caliber L 901.7, which requires four more components including an additional wheel to reverse the rotation of the moon disc. The watches are offered for the first time at auction by the original owner, and are complete with their warranty and presentation box.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi Set
A. LANGE & SÖHNEA fine and rare white gold limited edition annual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, zero-reset function, guarantee, and presentation box, number 11 of 25 examples
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year 2018
Reference No. 330.039
Movement No. 115’466
Case No. 11/25; 237’636
Model Name Saxonia Annual Calendar U.S. Boutique Exclusive
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. L.085.1, 43 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000 Σ
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee booklet dated July 18th 2018, polishing cloth, setting pin, leather folio, numbered cloth, numbered presentation box, additional strap, key, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging. Further accompanied by numbered and branded Swiss Kubik winder, instruction manual, and charger.
Standing at the pinnacle of German precision and craftsmanship in the world of horology, A. Lange & Söhne is regarded as a brand with a history that is both storied and influential. Established in 1845, the brand has become synonymous with uncompromising quality, technical innovation, and timeless design.
The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar, crafted in 18K white gold, perfectly exemplifies this concept. Boasting a lustrous grey dial and hands typically found in platinum examples, this exceptional timepiece was exclusively designed for Lange’s American boutiques in Costa Mesa, Miami, and New York.
The splendid grey dial of the present limited edition, crafted from German silver, provides a striking contrast against the white gold case, accentuated by a subtle design tweak—matching the background of the date windows to the dial’s color. The most exclusive element of this limited edition is the rhodium-treated micro-rotor. Made of 21-Karat gold with outer mass made in platinum, it is typically left as is, but in this case the rotor has been fully plated in blackened rhodium, then circular graining was applied to the raised text of the rotor, exposing the yellow gold again—a treatment exclusively done for this limited edition.
With only twenty-five pieces distributed among the three U.S. boutiques, the opportunity to acquire such a piece is exceptionally rare. This particular example is virtually unworn and includes the complete suite of original accessories.
A fine and attractive pink gold and black ceramic chronograph wristwatch with date, guarantee, and certificate
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2014
Reference No. 26401RO.OO.A002CA.01
Movement No. 890’225
Case No. I27034-0384
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore
Material 18K pink gold and black ceramic
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3126/3840, 59 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions 44mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Warranty, Authentication and Register Certificate booklet, instruction manual, and Timepiece Life & Care card.
Launched in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore was the brand’s response to the ever-evolving preferences of contemporary luxury watch enthusiasts. Featuring a significantly larger and thicker case design, the Offshore is a fan-favorite for those who appreciate watches with significant wrist presence due to its robust yet timeless design.
The present lot is a Royal Oak Offshore launched in 2017, crafted with a combination of pink gold and black ceramic. Showcasing a modern update to the original Royal Oak Offshore, it features highly sought-after upgrades including ceramic for the bezel and pushers as well as enhanced, oversized crown guards and more aggressive rectangular pushers. The matte black grande tapisserie dial is sporty and contrasts superbly well with the redtipped chronograph hands.
Known for its substantial case size, durability, and striking appearance, the Royal Oak Offshore blends high-performance functionality with sophisticated style, making it an ideal choice for individuals who seek a versatile watch that can transition seamlessly from everyday wear to more adventurous endeavors.
A very attractive and rare stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, leap year and weekly indication, bracelet, Extract, and presentation box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2016
Reference No. 26574ST.OO.1220ST.02
Movement No. 958’429
Case No. I77474.0144
Model Name Royal Oak
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 5134/A804, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Royal Oak bracelet measuring 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$60,000–120,000
€56,300–113,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Register confirming the year of production to June 23rd, 2016, instruction manuals, fitted presentation box, watch winder and outer packaging.
Audemars Piguet’s reference 26574ST was introduced in 2015, and is extremely sought after by modern collectors.
Quite revolutionary from the get-go, at 41mm the timepiece is sure to mark its presence on the wrist, however mainly in diameter and not in thickness. That is because Audemars Piguet developed and introduced for this model the all-new self-winding cal. 5134 which is based on the famous extra slim cal.2120 found on the original Royal Oak A series. Whilst the movement is indeed larger, fitting in the larger case, it remains relatively slim for greater ease of wear. Furthermore, the new caliber offered an additional complication, a 52-week calendar indication.
The white lettering and indices, when contrasting against the brushed blued grand-tapisserie dial render the timepiece extremely legible. The stunning moon phase indication, with its photorealistic moon and lapis starry sky, sits both symmetrically and comfortably at 6 o’clock adding the final touch of marvelous to this remarkable timepiece.
In barely worn condition, with its deep blue grand tapisserie, this watch exudes elegance and finesse, appealing to the most discerning of collectors.
An exceptional and impressive titanium skeletonized tonneau-shaped flyback chronograph wristwatch with annual calendar and warranty certificate
Manufacturer Richard Mille
Year Circa 2011
Reference No. RM011 AK TI
Movement No. 2461
Case No. 2217
Model Name Felipe Massa
Material Titanium
Calibre Automatic, cal. RMAC1, 68 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Richard Mille double deployant clasp
Dimensions 50mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$90,000–180,000
€84,500–169,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Richard Mille Warranty, dated July 21, 2011, stamped
The Vault-FL, photocopy of Richard Mille Hong Kong service invoice dated July 8, 2018 and product literature.
Richard Mille released his first model, the RM001 in 2001, and thus began an independent brand known for visionary and avante-garde designs with an aesthetic never seen before in the history of watchmaking. Since their beginning, Mille has pushed the limits of horology making some of the most technical watches of the 21st century. His cutting edge designs are immediately recognizable, and are sophisticated, practical, and comfortable on the wrist. The movements are manufactured to be worn in extreme conditions using revolutionary materials. With this in mind, Mille has partnered with brand ambassadors from the sports world who with their own excellence, represent the premier quality of the watches. Since Mille established his brand, he has had an ongoing relationship with Formula 1 motorsports, and in 2007 released their first automatic chronograph wristwatch, the RM011 Felipe Massa in collaboration with the Brazilian racer with 11 Grand Prix victories.
The RM011 features a self-winding movement made by Vaucher with flyback chronograph mechanism by Dubois-Dépraz. Housed in the iconic Richard Mille tonneau-shaped case made of titanium, the movement is skeletonized with a variable-geometry rotor featuring hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph, 60-minute countdown timer at 9 o’clock, 12-hour totalizer, and annual calendar with oversize date and month indicator.
The present example is in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its warranty dated 2011. Richard Mille timepieces are complex and highly innovative similar to the craftsmanship and precision of a Formula 1 racer.
A striking, extremely rare, and innovative platinum chronograph wristwatch with vibrant red dial, bracelet, 100th of a second, 20-second, 10-minute registers, guarantee, and presentation box
In production between 2008 and 2017, the F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain “F” was available as a boutique exclusive and upon special request only. The combination of a striking red dial and yellow accented hands are daring design choices, brought off with the aplomb and confidence inherent in a Journe timepiece. The combination of fifteen years of research and testing by Journe combined with the inspiration of his relationship with Jean Todt, who was at the time the CEO of Ferrari (and later the FIA president) resulted in the creation of this “unprecedented” chronograph. It was an answer to the question—“what is the ideal watch for car racing.” Upon the birth of the Centigraphe in 2008, Jean Todt was named its “godfather.”
A striking, extremely rare, and innovative platinum chronograph wristwatch with vibrant red dial, bracelet, 100th of a second, 20-second, 10-minute registers, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2014
Case No. 223-CT
Model Name Centigraphe Souverain “F”
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1506, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum F.P. Journe bracelet, max overall length approx. 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$200,000–400,000
€188,000–376,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe guarantee card, information booklet, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
Powered by the in-house cal. 1506 composed of 18K gold bridges and plates, the complex movement enables the dial to display an unconventional chronograph with 100th of a second register, 20 seconds register and a 10 minute register.
Paired with a luxurious platinum five-row bracelet, the overall effect of the dial, accents, and platinum livery result in a tremendous effect. It is further accompanied by all of its original accessories.
The dial’s red color is that of Ferrari, the automobile manufacturer, and is known as “rosso corsa”, or racing red. Jean Todt had sent Journe a paint sample of the color, to which it was matched. Upon closer examination of the dial, it is remarkably a solid gold dial base, treated to be red, with layers of lacquer on top giving an overall three-dimensional effect. Preserved in excellent overall condition, this Centigraphe “F”, one of only approximately 20 believed made is considered the most coveted of all Journe Centigraphes.
A superb bi-axial limited edition tourbillon wristwatch with excentered hours and minutes, power reserve, with warranty and presentation box, numbered 1 of a limited edition of 10 pieces
Manufacturer Harry Winston Year 2017
Reference No. HCOMDT51WW004
Movement No. No. 1/10
Case No. 092210
Model Name Histoire de Tourbillon 8
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual HW4503, 92 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Harry Winston pin buckle
Dimensions 51mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$60,000–100,000 Σ
€56,300–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Harry Winston authenticity card, warranty booklet, manual, presentation box, and leather wallet.
Launched in 2017, the Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 8 is the eighth installment to the landmark watchmaking project undertaken with Greubel Forsey’s Complitime, dedicated to taking the tourbillon mechanism to new heights with innovative and daring designs.
With its remarkable dual bi-axial tourbillons connected via a spherical differential, the Histoire de Tourbillon 8 achieved incredible levels of precision and mesmerizing mechanical mastery. Each double tourbillon is mounted on a 30-degree incline and within a second rotating completing a full rotation every 45 seconds. The open-worked dial showcases an innovative jumping time display using lightweight aluminum disks—an hour disk at 1 o’clock and minutes disk at 4 o’clock. The manually-wound movement provides a 55-hour power reserve, with a power-level indicator positioned at 6 o’clock.
All visible elements are exquisitely finished, and through the dial various techniques including sanded, satin, grained, and honeycomb features, were strategically employed to enhance the overall presentation of the watch. The attractive red titanium dial is made using advanced techniques such as selective rhodium plating.
Limited to only 10 examples, the present lot offers a fantastic opportunity for collectors who can appreciate quality and horological prowess. The watch, the first in the series numbered 1, is offered in like-new condition and complete with all its accessories.
THE NEW YORK WATCH AUCTION: X
SESSION 2
9 JUNE 2024, 10AM LOTS 76–151
A well-preserved and highly attractive limited edition platinum wristwatch with retrograde hours and minutes, champlevé enamel dial, and international warranty
Manufacturer Vacheron Constantin
Year Circa 1997
Reference No. 43050/000P
Movement No. 861’255
Case No. 684’426
Model Name Mercator
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1120/2, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin international warranty, chronometer certificate date dated October 16th 1997, guarantee booklet, and outer envelope.
Vacheron Constantin’s Mercator wristwatch pays homage to Gerard Mercator, the 16th century German-Flemish cartographer, geographer, and cosmographer. He was born in Antwerp in 1592 and became the most well-known cartographer of his time. He developed the Mercator projection, which rendered the configuration of the terrestrial globe on to a flat surface and became the standard for nautical purposes. He created a new world map in 1569 using this method and it was a marvel of contemporary geography. Mercator was one of few scholars of the time that did not travel widely, but rather most of his thought and skill were gained from his personal library of over 1000 maps and books, as well as correspondences with other scholars, statesmen, travelers, and seamen.
Vacheron Constantin’s uniquely designed Mercator wristwatch was released in 1994 for the 400th anniversary of the scholar’s death. The retrograde hour and minute indicators resemble the legs of a handheld compass, while the stunning champlevé enamel dial of the “Americas” is rendered from his map dating to circa 1623. The dial—and indeed, the concept for the watch itself—is the work of Belgian master enamellers Lucie and Jean Genbrugge, who specialize in making ultra-thin miniature paintings on enamel. Jean Genbrugge also designed the retrograde module for the movement allowing for the retrograde hour and minute hands. The myriad of details, such as the style of script and Latin place names, augment the illusion of a 16th century map.
Accompanied by its original chronometer certificate and international warranty, the platinum case with its deeply engraved lugs is preserved in excellent condition. Furthermore, this example is one of a limited edition of only 20 pieces depicting the Americas.
An extremely elegant and very rare platinum automatic wristwatch with zero-reset mechanism, grand feu enamel dial, small seconds, guarantee, and presentation box, number 128 of a 500 piece limited edition
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year 2001
Reference No. 302.025
Movement No. 15’639
Case No. 132’128; No. 128/500
Model Name Langematik Anniversary Jubilee
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. L921.7, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Platinum A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000 Σ
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne presentation box, sales memo, manual, guarantee, and warranty certificate.
Introduced in 2000, the Langematik Anniversary Jubilee stands as a limited edition masterpiece, with only 500 examples crafted to commemorate the new millennium.
To create a dial that is both flawless and true to artisanal craftsmanship, skilled enamelers go through a meticulous process comprising over 30 different steps. Demonstrating a commitment to heritage and authenticity, the Langematik boasts distinct features such as a separately printed red numeral “XII,” a chemin-de-fer style chapter ring, alpha-style blued steel hands, and a classic small seconds hand. As the cherry on top, the watch is also equipped with Lange’s patented zero-reset mechanism—allowing the reset of the second hand to 0 by pulling the crown for greater time-setting accuracy. The sapphire-crystal caseback unveils the beautifully decorated inhouse caliber L 921.7, showcasing a bidirectional hand-engraved micro rotor in 24K yellow gold and platinum.
The present example, numbered 128, is accompanied by a full set of accessories and preserved in outstanding condition. With a diameter of 37mm, this timepiece is perfect for collectors who appreciate a slim and elegant dress watch that is not only highly sought after but one that commemorates a new millennium.
Ref. 302.025 Langematik Anniversary
An attractive and well preserved white gold observatory wristwatch with enamel dial, additional solid case back, certificate of origin, Bulletin de Marche, and presentation box
Manufacturer Roger Dubuis
Year 2000
Reference No. H40 27 0
Movement No. No. 6
Case No. 195’625, series number 05/19
Model Name Hommage Condottieri
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. RD27, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000 Σ
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Roger Dubuis Certificate of Origin and Guarantee dated February 21, 2000, Observatoire National de Besançon Bulletin de Marche dated January 23, 1998, additional Roger Dubuis certificate with reference and movement number, wooden presentation box, additional solid case back, hang tag, leather folio, suede travel pouch and outer packaging
The Hommage Condottieri is certainly one of the most sought after Roger Dubuis timepieces ever made. It enabled the world to witness what his own creations would look like after 20 years at Patek Philippe in the complications department. Utterly beautiful through its classic design and highest quality craftsmanship, the Hommage Condottieri is encased in a round, three-piece case with a monogrammed exhibition caseback. On view is the exquisitely hand-finished cal. RD27 made to observatory standards, underneath the snow white enamel dial with painted black Roman numerals. Regarded as a grail watch by the firm, the original base movement derives from a 1940s Tavannes cal. 507 finessed with Dubuis’ sophisticated modifications including a swan neck regulator, Breguet hairspring, stunning hand-polished anglage on all bridges, as well as hand-polished and chamfered screws. Precision built to Poinçon de Genève and Observatoire National de Besançon standards, it is a superb masterpiece hand-regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.
The present watch is fresh-to-the-market, very well preserved, and a wonderful representation of Dubuis’s craftsmanship and attention to detail. The watch is accompanied by its suite of accessories including its additional solid case back.
An innovative and extremely rare pink gold chronometer dual-time wristwatch with white gold dial, double escapement, guarantee, and presentation box
Chronomètre à Résonance “Brass Movement”
The first generation Chronomètre à Resonance featured a 38mm diameter case with brass movement and was inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker, Antide Janvier. In 1983, Journe sought to emulate the legendary Janvier by creating a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon, and 16 years later, he introduced his now-iconic Chronomètre á Résonance wristwatch. It was the world’s first wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon, whereby the movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance effect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy. Not only a wonderful tribute to technical watchmaking, the Chronomètre à Résonance can also be used as a dual time watch. In production from 2000 to 2005, the first generation Chronomètre á Résonance (reference R), like the present lot, features a rhodium-plated brass movement and a 38mm diameter case. The second generation (reference RN) would introduce rose gold movements to replace brass and housed predominantly in larger 40mm cases.
According to reliable sources, between 70-80% of the production of -02 Resonances were cased in platinum, making a pink gold-cased -02 R exceptionally rare. Even rarer is the combination of a pink gold case with white gold dial. In the past two decades, less than 30 pieces have appeared publicly, with the majority in platinum with white gold or yellow gold dials. Only four examples, of which the present lot is the fourth, in a pink gold case with white gold dial, have appeared publicly in the past two decades. F.P. JOURNE
An innovative and extremely rare pink gold chronometer dual-time wristwatch with white gold dial, double escapement, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2002
Case No. No. 230-02R
Model Name Chronomètre à Résonance
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$120,000–240,000 Σ
€113,000–225,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe warranty card dated March 11th, 2006, instruction manual, polishing cloth, purchase receipt, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
The present lot offers the rare opportunity of obtaining a historically important timepiece that has become one of the most important horological breakthroughs of the past decades. It remains accompanied with its original guarantee card, instruction manual, and presentation box, consigned by the original owner, a scion of independent watch collecting. No. 232-02R is fresh to the market and complete with all of its original accessories.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
F.P.
Chronomètre à Résonance “Brass Movement”
An extremely rare and highly coveted 38mm platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’égalité, deadbeat seconds, and power reserve
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2007
Case No. No. 319-TN
Model Name Tourbillon Souverain
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1403, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Platinum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$120,000–240,000 Σ
€113,000–225,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe polishing cloth and inner and outer presentation box.
In 1999, François-Paul Journe launched his brand with the introduction of the Tourbillon Souverain, featuring a world premiere remontoir d’egalité—the first time this mechanism was ever integrated with a tourbillon in a wristwatch. In 2004, he pushed his concept one step further by creating a new generation tourbillon that not only maintained the remontoir (serving as a constant force device, resulting in greater accuracy and amplitude for the tourbillon-equipped escapement) but also added a “seconde morte”, or deadbeat seconds.
The current example offers more than it initially appears. A closer inspection reveals that this Tourbillon Souverain “TN” is housed in a rare 38mm platinum case, rather than the typical 40mm size. This smaller case is highly sought after by dedicated collectors, as it aligns more closely with the original watches crafted by François-Paul Journe. As such, the present watch was likely made on special request for a notable client of the manufacture.
Produced in limited quantities to begin with, and then discontinued in 2015, there are few 38mm F.P. Journe watches featuring rose gold movements, most of which are Chronomètre Souverains. Thus, a 38mm Tourbillon Souverain is an exceptionally rare find. It represents a unique chance to own a watch that combines the classic case size with a deadbeat seconds mechanism and rose gold movement. Long discontinued, this is a contemporary horological masterpiece, deriving its beauty and accuracy from the best elements of the past and the present.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A very fine, rare, and unusual yellow gold five minute repeating open face two-train pocket watch with chronograph, perpetual calendar with moon phase, and alarm
Manufacturer Louis Bornand, Genève
Year Circa 1890
Case No. 4588
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, two-train gilt lever movement, 32 jewels
Dimensions 58mm Diameter
Signed Dial signed, case numbered.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
The pocket watch is the original gentlemen’s timepiece. Similar to the modern wristwatch, the pocket watch illustrated one’s station in life.
The present, highly complicated pocket watch is a tribute to the risking skill and craftsmanship of Swiss watchmaking in the late 19th century. Certainly a watch that could only have been afforded by a man of distinction, its extremely fine movement combines a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and a rare fiveminute repeating mechanism, which chimes the hours followed by each of the elapsed five minutes since the hour. Exceptionally rare and hardly ever seen in pocket watches of this era, it also incorporates an alarm complication that strikes on gongs, a mechanism more often found on clocks of the time. Two gear trains are employed—one for the striking mechanism and the other for timekeeping, and another extremely rare feature illustrating the quality of this watch.
The watch is preserved in excellent overall condition with a flawless, white enamel dial. Today’s complicated wristwatches follow a long and rich history of traditional watchmaking and this fine Louis Bornand pocket watch is a wonderful representation of the past, and the horological excellency of the late 19th century.
An extremely fine and attractive pink gold engraved hunter cased Grande and Petite Sonnerie minute repeating clockwatch made for the South American market
Manufacturer Attributed to Louis Elisée Piguet
Year Late 19th Century
Case No. 1’325
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, two-train keyless counterpoised lever escapement, 42 jewels
Dimensions 59.5mm Diameter
Signed Case numbered 1’325, movement numbered 1’325 on the top plate.
Provenance
Christie’s New York, October 28th, 1989, lot 531.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
An exceptionally complicated watch destined for the South American market, this Grand Sonnerie minute repeating clock watch from the late-nineteenth century oozes horological savoirfaire and encompasses all the excesses of the Gilded Age.
Luckily for modern cataloguers, the cuvette is engraved with an enlightening description of what lies within: a quarter-repeating Grande Sonnerie with counterpoised balance, 42 jewels, straight lever escapement, and Breguet spiral, made for Maulme Hermaños, Guayaquil. Throughout the entire case, the elaborate and fine chased decorations featuring lion’s head plaques, oak leaf clusters, rose cartouches, and alternating floral scrollwork—also seen on the decoration to the dial—gives a clear indication of the watch’s destination as the South American market.
Los hermanos Maulme, the Maulme brothers, were immigrants to Guayaquil, Ecuador, in the latter part of the 19th century. Arriving from Peru (or possibly Chile) as the sons of French immigrants, Enrique and Luis Maulme quickly set out to make a fortune in mining, and eventually branched into brewing and automobiles. Enrique Maulme’s automobile business eventually became the sole distributor of General Motors products in Ecuador. It is no leap of the imagination that one of these brothers, flush with success, ordered this highly prestigious timepiece.
The movement was likely from noted Le Brassus watchmaker Louis Elisée Piguet, who provided ebauches of the highest complications for such notable makers as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. Indeed, this exact type of movement could be said to have inspired Philippe Dufour’s grande and petite sonnerie pocket watch, and later the first wristwatch to feature this same complication. Michel Parmigiani, former watch restorer and founder of Parmigiani Fleurier, acquired a L.E. Piguet grande and petite sonnerie ebauche and created the unique piece “La Rose Carrée” in 2021.
F. P. Journe’s Vagabondage collection is a tribute to the ingenious design and mechanical excellence of this master 21stcentury watchmaker. The Vagabondage’s story begins in 1997 as a unique timepiece created for a client who requested a watch from Journe’s imagination, reminiscent of what Abraham Louis Breguet would make during his lifetime, but with a twist—a watch that would tell time by means of vagabond, or wandering, hours. This “CarpeDiem” model was a yellow gold, round wristwatch with an entirely new movement fabricated by Journe, featuring an impressive wandering jump-hour display centered around an exposed balanced wheel.
In 2003, Journe was approached to provide a unique timepiece for a charity auction to benefit the ICM Foundation, which supports neurological research—needed within six months of the request. Due to the limited time frame, he offered a remarkable solution by returning to his unique wandering hour timepiece. Choosing for the first time a tonneau-shaped case instead of the CarpeDiem’s round case, the Vagabondage was born. Three examples were created, one each in yellow, rose, and white gold, all with brass movements, and all three sold for triple their estimates. The watches were so admired following the charity auction with many requests from collectors for a similar example, that Journe created the limited-edition Vagabondage series.
A very rare and unusual limited edition platinum tonneau-shaped wristwatch with wandering hours, number 60 of a limited edition of 69 pieces
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2005
Case No. No. 60/69 V
Model Name Vagabondage I
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1504, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm length by 36mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$120,000–240,000 Σ
€113,000–225,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate dated August 1st, 2005, original purchase invoice, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box, and outer box
The Vagabondage I was released in 2004 in a limited edition of just 69 examples in platinum and 69 in rose gold and features a digital jumping hour with wandering aperture that circles the dial to indicate the minutes. The balance wheel and escapement are prominently seen at the center of the watch, and like the charity timepieces from 2003, and all subsequent Vagabondage models, the brand name is not featured on the dial. The tortueshaped case has a brushed finish on the bezel, which is offset by the polished, beveled edges and case sides. The present lot is in excellent condition, numbered 60 of 69, and comes from the collection of the original owner with all of its original accessories.
The corresponding number 60 piece of the Vagabondage II and III will be sold as lots 84 and 85 following this lot.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A very fine and rare limited edition semi-skeletonized platinum tortue-shaped wristwatch with small seconds, jump hours and minutes, one-minute remontoir, power reserve indication, certificate, and presentation box, number 60 of a limited edition of 69 pieces
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2010
Case No. No. 60/69 VII
Model Name Vagabondage II
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1509, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm length by 36mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$120,000–240,000 Σ
€113,000–225,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate dated November 29th, 2010, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
The Vagabondage II is an interesting and innovative timepiece featuring jumping hours and minutes via rotating discs indicated through apertures that are perfectly aligned in the center of the dial along with its small seconds. Interestingly and quite unusually no brand name is mentioned on the dial but a cavalcade of details display the brand’s unmistakable genetic codes. The watch houses the in-house caliber 1509 in pink gold, fitting perfectly into the case and features a constant force device that ensures that the energy from the mainspring is equally distributed with no loss each time the discs jump.
Released in 2010, the Vagabondage II was F.P. Journe’s second timepiece featuring a tortue-shaped case and made in an ultralimited edition of 69 pieces in pink gold, and 69 in platinum of which the present model is number 60, as well as 10 pieces in platinum with baguette diamonds. Cherished by its original owner, the present platinum Vagabondage II exhibits impeccable case proportions and finishing throughout the timepiece, and comes with all of its original accessories. Interestingly, the sale date of the watch indicates that the VII was purchased 3 years after the owner took delivery of VIII, and 5 years after the purchase of VI.
Corresponding number 60 Vagabondage I and III are sold as lots 83 and 85 of this sale.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A very rare and fine limited edition semi-skeletonized platinum tortue-shaped wristwatch with digital jump hours and seconds, power reserve indication, and certificate, number 60 of a limited edition of 69 pieces
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2007
Case No. No. 60/69 VIII
Model Name Vagabondage III
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1514, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm length by 36mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$120,000–240,000 Σ
€113,000–225,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate dated July 26th, 2007 with operating instructions on the reverse, and numbered envelope.
For François-Paul’s final iteration of the Vagabondage, meaning “wandering” in French, just as for the previous two, he reworked the whole movement from the ground up, this time with jumping hours and seconds digitally displayed. Given the tremendous energy needed to power the digital jumping seconds, Journe incorporated his signature remontoir d’égalité mechanism allowing the balance wheel to maintain a constant amplitude. The mechanism of the two seconds’ discs at 6 o’clock can be seen rotating under the smoked sapphire crystal dial, allowing the wearer to appreciate every single jump of the second.
Housed in a traditional tortue shaped case, the Vagabondage III is aesthetically modern thanks to its deceptively complex yet elegantly minimal pared-down dial. The smoked sapphire dial, also used on the Sonnerie Souverain, subtly reveals many elements of the 18 karat rose-gold movement within.
Consigned as part of the complete set, numbered 60 of 69, the present Vagabondage III comes with its original certificate of origin and comes directly from the collection of the original owner.
Corresponding number 60 Vagabondage I and III are sold as lots 83 and 84 of this sale.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
An exclusive wooden presentation box with three compartments, made for the Vagabondage Triptyque number 60 of 69
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year Circa 2010
Case No. No. 60/69 Vagabondage Triptyque
Material Wood, leather
Dimensions 290mm length x 97mm height x 180mm depth
Signed Inner and outer box signed.
Estimate
$5,000–10,000 •
€4,700–9,400
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe polishing cloth and fitted outer box.
Accompanying the purchase of the final Vagabondage in the No. 60 set, the VIII, this numbered presentation box with three compartments, one for each edition, was given to the original owner to house their three masterpieces. Rendered in a dark wood soft and delicate to the touch, the interior is fitted with cream leather and topped with a polished metal plate engraved with the unique number of the set.
If all three pieces of the Vagabondage triptych are purchased by the same paddle number, this lot will be immediately withdrawn and awarded to that paddle number. If the pieces are sold to separate paddle numbers, the box will be sold without reserve.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
87.
An exceptionally rare, possibly unique, and fresh-to-market white gold wristwatch with double escapement, additional lacquered dial and hand set, certificate of origin, and fitted presentation box
An exceptionally rare, possibly unique, and fresh-to-market white gold wristwatch with double escapement, additional lacquered dial and hand set, certificate of origin, and fitted presentation box
Duality No. 03 “Possibly Unique”
The Duality was introduced in 1996. Dufour’s second wristwatch was, like the Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch, a world premiere: the world’s first wristwatch incorporating a double escapement (thus its name) featuring two independent balance wheels compensated with a central differential gear.
Having two balances connected in this way enables greater accuracy as it allows the balances to average out their rates. If one runs slightly faster and the other a bit slower, the rate variations would cancel each other out. Furthermore, this system produces less variation across all different positions.
Dufour’s inspiration for the Duality came from a school watch with double balance wheel featured in the Time Museum’s catalogue—and coincidentally, corresponding to the same school that Dufour graduated from, the Vallée de Joux Watchmaking School. This watch had a single gear train delivering power to two balance wheels through a differential.
After having miniaturized the Grande & Petite Sonnerie movement to fit inside a wristwatch, Dufour tackled the task of shrinking the differential into a caliber that could be housed within a wristwatch. The final result was nothing short of extraordinary, as he managed to shrink the differential mechanism to the size of a matchstick head, allowing the movement to feature two large balances beating in unison.
Dufour had planned on making 25 Duality timepieces, however, due to the complexity of making, assembling, and adjusting the movement, added to the fact that the market did not at the time grasp the importance and relevance of the timepiece, he only made 9. Dufour’s Duality is in fact a monumental achievement in wristwatch history. So important was its launch that it would inspire François-Paul Journe to revisit his own dual-escapement design—the Resonance, which he first attempted years earlier within a pocket watch. Four years after the Duality’s introduction, Journe would introduce the world’s first Resonance wristwatch.
An exceptionally rare, possibly unique, and fresh-to-market white gold wristwatch with double escapement, additional lacquered dial and hand set, certificate of origin, and fitted presentation box
Manufacturer Philippe Dufour
Year 1999
Movement No. No. 3
Model Name Duality
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 10, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold pin buckle
Dimensions 34mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$800,000–1,600,000 Σ
€751,000–1,500,000
Accessories
Accompanied by a second lacquered dial with Roman numerals and Breguet-style hands, Philippe Dufour international guarantee and certificate of origin dated September 10th, 1999, additional crocodile strap, fitted wooden presentation box, and outer box.
Fresh-to-the-market, the present Duality is extremely wellpreserved and offered complete with its original boxes and guarantee. This example is also most probably unique—the only one in existence to feature a second, lacquered dial with Roman numerals and Breguet-style hands. Phillips has been entrusted with the sale of two Duality wristwatches in the past, and this third example, unseen by the public until now, in 18K white gold, numbered 03, is an important addition to the scholarship of Philippe Dufour and really of modern mechanical watchmaking.
An extremely fine and attractive pink gold minute repeating hunter-cased split-seconds chronograph pocket watch with commemorative inscription
Manufacturer Jules Jürgensen
Year 1894
Movement No. 15’211
Case No. 15’211, front case interior inscribed “Presented to Hon. Harry B. Hawes by St. Louis Police Department, July 1 1900”
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, 18’’’ straight line lever escapement, 32 jewels
Dimensions 51mm Diameter
Signed Case, cuvette, dial and movement signed; case, cuvette and movement numbered.
Estimate
$8,000–16,000
€7,500–15,000
The Danish name Jürgensen is prominent in the history of horology, revered for craftsmanship, precision and innovation. A student of Breguet, Houriet and Arnold, Urban Jürgensen is considered one of the greatest watchmakers of the 19th century. Urban Jürgensen established himself in Switzerland catering to monarchs, aristocrats and the greats of Europe. After his passing in 1830, his sons, Louis Urban and Jules, took over his business, with Jules remaining in Switzerland. Jules Jürgensen was an extremely gifted watchmaker creating precision chronometers and complicated timepieces under his own brand.
Today, Jules Jürgensen pocket watches remain highly sought after for their extraordinary craftsmanship. The present hunter case watch combines two complications rarely seen in combination in 21st century horology—a minute repeater and split-seconds chronograph. The watch is preserved in excellent overall condition with an exquisite and flawless white enamel dial and Roman numerals. The repeating mechanism is activated through a slide in the band, producing a rich tone. The watch features Jürgensen’s innovative and patented bow setting system, permitting the hands to be set with the crown when the bow is bent towards the dial. The four body “demi-bassine et fillet” case demonstrates Jürgensen’s design aesthetic. The front case interior is dedicated to the “Hon. Harry B. Hawes by St. Louis Police Department, July 1 1900”. Harry B. Hawes was an American lawyer, conservationist, and Democratic member of the U. S. House and Senate from Missouri. He is best known for the Hare-Hawes-Cutting Act, a law granting independence to the Philippines.
Split Seconds Chronograph with Minute Repeater
A unique, important, and cutting-edge platinum prototype wristwatch with detent escapement, power reserve, black dial, guarantee, chronometer certificate, and presentation box
Manufacturer Urban Jürgensen
Year Circa 2011
Reference No. 11C
Movement No. No. 16
Model Name Detent Escapement “Prototype”
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 8P detent escapement, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Urban Jürgensen deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by undated Urban Jurgensen certificate of guarantee, chronometer certificate dated March 11th, 2011, folio with product information, fitted wooden presentation box, slip cloth, and outer box.
In the highly accurate detent escapement, the balance wheel swings undisturbed during most of its cycle, except the brief impulse period, which is only given once per cycle. It runs virtually without friction and the escape wheel teeth do not require oiling.
The greatest downfall of the detent escapement was the fact that it was very sensitive to shocks and as such this escapement was found rarely in pocket watches and none in wristwatch format—until a genius dream team at Urban Jurgensen composed of Derek Pratt, Kari Voutilainen, and Jean-François Mojon set out to create the world’s first wristwatch movement with detent escapement. Pratt provided the initial tests, Mojon constructed the movement, and Voutilainen finished, regulated, and assembled the first series prototypes, of which this is one.
The resulting groundbreaking movement, the P8, was introduced at the Basel Fair in 2011, featured two barrels in series providing an impressive power reserve of up to 88 hours. The profile of the escape wheel teeth has also been optimized in order to reduce friction even more.
To introduce this unprecedented movement, Urban Jurgensen auctioned the present prototype example in 2011, which was purchased by the current consignor. Importantly, this watch is also the very first wristwatch ever manufactured in-house by Urban Jürgensen. Of the 40 prototype movements, 25 were cased in different metals, each with a different dial. Thus, the present combination of platinum case and black dial is unique, and comes accompanied by all its original accessories.
An exceptional, extremely rare, and important yellow gold minute repeating split-seconds hunter cased perpetual calendar pocket watch with moon phase
Grande Complication timepieces are the pinnacle of watchmaking providing a fascinating window into horology’s past with some of the most intriguing watches ever produced. They are mechanical works of art produced by very few makers, bringing together multiple, high complications: a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, and a split-seconds chronograph to produce one of the most complex and enduring collectable watches today. Each function not only works individually, but also together for an incomparable mechanism that showcases the greatness of a maker. The craftsmanship and expertise required to create such watches are truly exceptional, making them extremely rare and coveted masterpieces in the world of horology.
Without a doubt, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the finest watches in the world were being produced by British makers, and are now cherished by collectors for their rarity, complexity, and beauty. The present S. Smith & Son “Grande Complication” combining a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and perpetual calendar with moon phase, is a true masterpiece from the turn of the 20th century.
With two similar examples, numbered 148-2 and 148-3, held in the Clockmakers Company Museum, London, as well as number 148-1 featured in an advertisement of the period, it’s believed to be one of only four ever made.
The history of horology is fully embodied by this pocket watch and its masterful craftsmanship a shining example of exceptional British watchmaking. The massive (239.1grams/0.5 pounds) 59mm diameter hunter case is comprised of four components crafted from solid 18 karat gold, exhibiting the best of English standards with the use of 5-knuckle hinges for the inner cuvette and front and back covers. Stamped “SS” for Smith and Sons, along with London hallmarks for 1899 on the case, the watch features a slide mechanism at 6 o’clock for the minute repeater, chiming the hours, quarters, and minutes on two gongs. The split-seconds chronograph is activated by two pushers at 11 and 1 o’clock with the elapsed time indicated via the 60 minute recorder within the sub-dial at 12 o’clock that is combined with the leap year indication and months of the year.
S. Smith & Son period advertisement detailing the price and specifications of a similar pocket watch, circa 1896
An exceptional, extremely rare, and important yellow gold minute repeating split-seconds hunter cased perpetual calendar pocket watch with moon phase
Manufacturer Smith & Son
Year 1899
Movement No. 148-99
Case No. 148-99
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, gilt brass three quarter plate English lever movement, 38 jewels
Dimensions 59mm Diameter
Signed Case and cuvette stamped SS, case with London hallmarks for 1899-1900, dial signed S. Smith & Son 9 Strand, London 148-99, movement signed S. Smith & Son, 9 Strand, London, 148-99, Makers to the Admiralty, case, cuvette, dial and movement numbered.
Provenance
Habsburg Feldman of Geneva, October 21, 1990, lot 147
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
The lovely white enamel dial with Roman numerals elegantly presents multiple subsidiary dials indicating the day of the week and date, along with running seconds combined with an aperture for the moon phase. Made and signed by by Frederick Willis, his dials were of the highest quality used by the very best British makers in their most important watches.
The present watch has not been seen in public since it was first offered at auction in 1990. Research indicates the movement was supplied by Nicole Nielson. The watch was submitted to the Kew Observatory for testing in 1899 and entered in the ‘Complicated Category’, where it achieved an ‘A’ certificate with 70.4 marks. The watch is in excellent overall condition and very well preserved. The minute repeater has a magnificent tone that is both loud and sonorous.
Throughout history, British horology has exemplified the spirit of ingenuity and innovation, and the present S. Smith & Son pocket watch is a testament to this outstanding legacy. A watch connoisseur’s dream, this Grande Complication is an ultimate example of the best of British watchmaking.
PROPERTY FROM A PRESTIGIOUS FAMILY COLLECTION
An extremely rare and important yellow gold openface split-seconds pocket chronometer with one minute tourbillon
Looking back through the history of horology, it is extremely rare to find any timepiece combining a split-seconds chronograph with tourbillon, even in this day and age of pushing the boundaries of horology. Each trade show seems to be a race— always thinner, more accurate, more complicated. It is important to remember that what seems new to modern observers is in fact a replication and reintroduction of what has happened in the past, just adapted to different tastes.
Prominently featured and described in Geoge Daniels and Cecil Clutton’s book Watches, the present lot features one of the highest grade movements of its era, cased and sold by S. Smith & Sons, the preeminent makers of clocks and pocket watches. Manufactured by Nicole Nielsen & Co. for the prestigious retailer, as evidenced by the Nielsen number engraved to the bottom plate, it was based on a Victorin Elysée Piguet ébauche. From its beginning around 1870 until 1933, when the realities of the post-WWI British economy and the Great Depression no doubt took its toll, N N & Co. produced some of the finest and most complicated English watch movements, supplying all the top London makers, including S. Smith & Sons.
Examining the exquisitely complicated movement is a feast for the eyes. The finest English hand craftsmanship is evident throughout, particularly in the visible split-chronograph mechanism. The large balance wheel, fitted with 16 timing screws made of gold, is set within a Nicole Nielsen type-2 one-minute tourbillon carriage featuring three mirror polished, stepped carriage arms. A highest-quality “single-button” chronograph design, the crown starts, stops, and resets the chronograph function, and a pusher on the case at 11 o’clock stops and resets the split-seconds, or rattrapante, hand. A highest quality movement in terms of finishing, it was submitted to the Kew Observatory six times between 1901 and 1905. The best result was in 1902, where it achieved a remarkable Especially Good ‘A’ rating of 82 marks.
Not content to achieve excellence in the movement alone, the dial is perfectly balanced, with two oversized registers, delicate spade hands, and the delicately off-white enamel dial made and signed by Willis, masters of the craft of dialmaking who supplied some of the finest dials of the late 19th and early 20th century.
An extremely rare and important yellow gold openface split-seconds pocket chronometer with one minute tourbillon
Manufacturer Smith & Son
Year Circa 1900
Movement No. 1901-20
Case No. 1901-20, London hallmarks for 1900
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, three quarter plate gilt brass English lateral lever movement, 24 jewels
Dimensions 59mm Diameter
Signed Case and cuvette stamped SS with London hallmarks for 1900, dial signed 9 Strand, London 1901-20/360, movement signed S. Smith & Son 9 Strand, London Makers to the Admirality and the Indian Government; case, cuvette, dial and movement numbered 1901-20.
Provenance
Habsburg Feldman, May 29, 1989, lot 343.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Literature
This watch is described in Reinhard Meis, Das Tourbillon , pages 214–217, and Cecil Clutton and George Daniels, Watches , page 344.
Weighing a more-than-impressive 191 grams, the polished 18K yellow gold four-bodied case, made in a time where all cases were crafted by hand, measures 59mm in diameter with all the attributes of a quality English case; turning pendant, 5-knuckle joints, and a raised push piece. Preserved in remarkable condition, the consignor has owned this watch since its purchase at auction in 1989, and it remains in the identical state of preservation, having never been used since then.
PROPERTY FROM A PRESTIGIOUS FAMILY COLLECTION
Split Seconds Chronograph with Tourbillon
A unique, highly important, and extremely attractive stainless steel prototype tourbillon wristwatch with black lacquer dial, technical specifications certificate and presentation box, number 0
Though Switzerland has long been the international center of watchmaking, during the latter half of the 20th century a handful of talented artisans outside of Switzerland began to grow in popularity, manufacturing watches based on traditional watchmaking while pushing the boundaries of design and innovation. These independent watchmakers thrive in the 21st with a growing number of collectors seeking their exceptional timepieces, cherished for their commitment to creativity and craftsmanship.
Hajime Asaoka is a relatively new yet revered name in the market, gaining repute with his superbly crafted timepieces that are quite difficult to obtain. His early career as a product designer put him in contact with watchmaking enthusiasts. Inspired, Asaoka purchased a copy of George Daniels’ “Watchmaking,” which led to the creation of his prototype Tourbillon Number 1, in 2009. This prototype allowed him to be accepted as a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), a Swiss-based organization dedicated to preserving the art of fine, handmade watchmaking and independent makers. By 2011, Asaoka was manufacturing a small collection of timepieces—all designed, manufactured, and assembled by himself, resulting in an extremely low annual production of no more than a few pieces. He is committed to the preservation of traditional mechanical watchmaking while pushing the boundaries of innovation.
A unique, highly important, and extremely attractive stainless steel prototype tourbillon wristwatch with black lacquer dial, technical specifications certificate and presentation box, number 0
Manufacturer Hajime Asaoka
Year 2022
Movement No. Prototype No. 0
Model Name Tourbillon PURA
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Dial and movement signed.
Estimate
$120,000–240,000
€113,000–225,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Hajime Asaoka Technical Specification certificate confirming serial number 0, suede presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Literature
Financial Times, Friday 7, 2022 “Hajime Asaoka: Japanese watchmaker takes on the resellers”
Asaoka’s craft is rooted in Japanese culture, aesthetics and Zen philosophy, which are reflected in his timepieces with a harmonious balance between meticulous attention to detail, precision engineering, and understated elegance. The present prototype Tourbillon PURA is based on Asaoka’s pursuit for purity. There is a simplicity to the black lacquered dial with a a single bridge movement. Like other 21st century craftsmen, he used new materials such as A7075 duralumin, used for the tourbillon carriage, which is also found in aircrafts and guns. It has a low specific gravity and is durable allowing for an efficient transfer of energy from the movement to the carriage ensuring timekeeping accuracy. Compared to his earlier Project-T Tourbillon, which was housed in a 43mm diameter case, the Tourbillon PURA has a smaller 40mm diameter case.
Phillips is honored to present this unique, fresh-to-themarket prototype tourbillon from Japan’s most important independent watchmaker. It is offered in near new condition, most probably worn less than a handful of times, complete with its technical specification sheet and presentation box. The watch is also prominently featured in a 2022 Financial Times article on the watchmaker. A “one and only” trophy watch for the most discerning connoisseur of independent timepieces, this prototype tourbillon is a wonderful representation of the remarkable craftsmanship and ingenuity of one of the most sought after contemporary watchmakers.
An exceptional, highly important, and extremely fine yellow gold hunter cased grande and petite sonnerie minute repeating clock watch with tourbillon
Innovation and highest quality craftsmanship are the hallmarks of British horological history. Beginning in the 17th century, British master watchmakers were at the forefront, making major contributions in mechanical design leading to better timekeeping accuracy, a tradition that continues in the 21st century. Phillips is honored to offer this exceptional and very rare S. Smith & Son hunter-cased grande and petite sonnerie minute repeating clock watch with tourbillon.
Thomas Tompion (1639–1713) is one of the most important and influential masters earning him the moniker, “Father of English Clockmaking”. His work to improve accuracy in pendulum clocks lead to precision regulators sought after by scientists, and a vertical escapement that reduced friction and increased the reliably of clocks. Thomas Mudge (1715-1794) is another exceptional watchmaker who made a significant contribution with the development of the lever escapement, one of the most important innovations in the history of watchmaking. Patented in 1755, and further developed in the first half of the 19th century, the lever escapement is still in widespread use today. It is important to note that more than 200 years later another English watchmaker, George Daniels, made a landmark improvement to the lever escapement with his famed co-axial escapement.
At the turn of the 20th century, British watchmakers focused on the highest quality and most complicated timepieces, differentiating themselves from American and Swiss watchmakers who at the time aimed for mass production. British makers such as Charles Frodsham, Dent, J. Player & Son, and S. Smith and Son were producing some of the finest watches in the world, with many of the world’s wealthiest, such as John Pierpont Morgan, as their patrons. In fact, the Swiss would soon follow the lead of the British, beginning the production of highly complicated pocketwatches approximately a decade later.
The present S. Smith & Son clock watch from 1899 is an exceptional example of the finest in English horology and a wonderful representation of those who lead the way. Combining a grande and petite sonnerie with minute repeater, it will strike the hours and quarters automatically, as well as strike the hours, quarter and minutes on demand when activated through the slide at 7 o’clock. Measuring an impressive 60mm in diameter, the four-body, massive yellow gold hunter case features 5-knuckle joints, a turning pendant, and a raised push piece, as well as two selection levers that permit the owner to choose between Grande/Petite Sonnerie mode, or Strike/Silent.
An exceptional, highly important, and extremely fine yellow gold hunter cased grande and petite sonnerie minute repeating clock watch with tourbillon
Manufacturer Smith & Son
Year Circa 1899
Movement No. 1900-2
Case No. 1900-2
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, gilt three quarter plate lateral lever escapement, Nicole Nielsen type-2 tourbillon
Dimensions 60mm Diameter
Signed Case with London hallmarks for 1899, stamped SS, dial signed, S. Smith& Son, 9 Strand, London, 1900-2, movement signed S. Smith and Son, 9 Strand, London Maker to the British & Indian Governments.
Provenance
Habsburg Feldman, April 21, 1990, lot 151.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000
€75,100–150,000
Designed for maximum timekeeping precision, the gilt brass, three quarter plate double train movement with differential winding was made by Nicole Nielsen, one of the most respected makers of complicated movements of the era. Exquisite details, such as mirror polished steel bridges, jewels set within screwedin gold settings, and beautiful blued steel screws, make the movement breath-taking to behold. Fitted with an extremely fine and superbly hand-finished tourbillon, with free-sprung balance and overcoil balance spring, the movement was sent for Kew Observatory testing, receiving a Class ‘A’ Especially Good certificate with 81.4 marks in 1901—an absolutely impressive achievement for such a complicated masterpiece. Time is indicated by the wonderful white enamel dial made and signed by Willis, another master at his craft.
British horology has a rich and storied history reaching back centuries, and still leading the way today. This superb S. Smith & Son Clock Watch represents the pinnacle of early 20th century complicated watchmaking, and is a must have for any collector who cherishes the history of horology and the art of highly complicated timepieces.
PROPERTY FROM A PRESTIGIOUS FAMILY COLLECTION
An exceptionally rare, historically important, and fresh-to-market white gold wristwatch with certificate of origin and fitted presentation box
The name Philippe Dufour is synonymous with elegance, tradition, and innovation. Having graduated from the École d’Horlogerie in the Vallée de Joux, Dufour honed his craft at Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet before striking out on his own, restoring vintage pieces. Dufour famously stated that working with vintage masterpieces inspired him to create his own. In 1992, he introduced the Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeating wristwatch at Basel. It was the world’s first wristwatch to be fitted with such a highly complex chiming system, and was an instant success.
Following the success of the Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeating wristwatch, Dufour introduced the Simplicity in the year 2000. Inspired by the traditional watchmaking methods in the Vallée de Joux, the Simplicity is entirely crafted and assembled under one roof. The name ‘Simplicity’ is a bit of a misnomer; though the watch only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds, it is resplendent with aesthetic complexity. With beautiful hand engraved bridges, sumptuous anglage, dreamlike bridge forms, and gorgeous curvatures on the case, the Simplicity is the result of Dufour’s search for perfection. The Simplicity was originally presented in a 34mm case and a larger 37mm case, like the present lot, was subsequently offered. It was made in pink gold, white gold or platinum with a unique steel version known. Two dial types can most often be found on his timepieces; either in white lacquer or with a hand-guilloché dial, with unique versions also known.
An exceptionally rare, historically important, and fresh-to-market white gold wristwatch with certificate of origin and fitted presentation box
Manufacturer Philippe Dufour
Year 2004
Movement No. No. 47
Model Name Simplicty
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 11, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$250,000–500,000 Σ
€235,000–469,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Philippe Dufour international guarantee and certificate of origin dated March 2004, fitted wooden presentation box, and outer box. Further accompanied by Philippe Dufour service paper..
Now discontinued, Dufour only created slightly more than 200 examples of the original Simplicity. Its rarity, coupled with elegant looks, has propelled the watch to ‘grail’ status today.
Fitted with the hand-guillochéd dial variant in a 37mm case, the present lot is accompanied by its original certificate and presentation box. It is further offered in exceptionally wellpreserved condition from the collection of the original owner, having just completed a factory service in April 2024.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
An extremely rare, exceptional, and historically important open face yellow gold minute repeating grande sonnerie clock watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and moon phase
Phillips is honored to offer this exceptional Charles Frodsham Minute Repeating Grand Sonnerie Clock Watch with Tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar, and Moon Phase. This magnificent timepiece is one of only two known with these combined complications made by the famed English watchmaker. One of the finest watches ever made by the storied firm, its exceptional craftsmanship and quality make it a remarkable, museum-quality timepiece showcasing the very best of British horology.
Throughout the centuries, Great Britain has been associated with a long line of innovative watchmakers like Thomas Tompion, John Harrison, and Thomas Mudge each of whom made lasting contributions to the history of horology. The contemporary landscape of British watchmaking continues this proud heritage, revered amongst today’s collectors due to the late George Daniels, followed by his protegé, Roger Smith whose Number 2 pocket watch achieved $4.9 million at Phillips New York in 2023—the highest price ever for a British timepiece, and of course Charles Frodsham & Co. Ltd., which are the world’s longest continuously trading firm of chronometer manufacturers, with the formidable Double-Impulse Chronometer wristwatch released in 2018, and the result of 16 years of development work, further pushing hand-made British watchmaking to the forefront of modern horology.
Charles Frodsham (1810-1871) was a renowned British watchmaker born into a dynasty of clock, watch, and chronometer makers, becoming one of the leading horological figures of the 19th century. His father William James Frodsham was a respected clockmaker, and out of ten children, five apprenticed with their father and entered the trade. Charles showed early promise in watchmaking, submitting two chronometers, numbers 1 & 2 to the 1830 Premium Trails at Greenwich. Number 2 won the second Premium prize of 170 sterling, establishing his reputation for quality. Charles Frodsham & Co. was founded in 1834 and quickly became known for producing precision timepieces. Frodsham would purchase Arnold’s firm in 1843, adapting their numbering sequence for his own watches begun in 1761, and continuing in sequence to this day for Charles Frodsham & Co.’s contemporary watches. In 1854, Charles Frodsham succeeded Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy as the Superintendent and Keeper of Her Majesty’s Clocks at Buckingham Palace. Appointed as chronometer maker to the Admiralty, by the mid 1850s, he had established himself as a preeminent watchmaker known for exceptional craftsmanship and innovation.
When Charles died in 1871, the firm, under his son Harrison Mill Frodsham’s guidance, continued to be recognized for precision timekeepers. Frodsham sent marine chronometers to the Royal Observatory trials attaining first place in 1871 and 1885, and played a crucial role in improving the accuracy of chronometers, helping to advance British maritime trade and exploration.
Equally, Frodsham sent a number of high-grade watches, including tourbillons, to the Kew Observatory for Kew “A” testing between 1884 and 1912 with the tourbillon No. 09182 receiving the highest marks ever for an English watch tested at Kew, with, 93.9 marks out of 100.
The present Charles Frodsham clock watch is a horological tour de force equal to and in some cases exceeding the innovation and craftsmanship found on the finest complicated wristwatches manufactured today. Weighing in at a hefty 454.1 grams—1 full pound—and measuring an incredible 75mm in diameter, this timepiece must be seen in person to fully appreciate what has to be considered one of the most important and finest English watches ever produced. In fact, it is 1mm larger in diameter than the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication. The case was made to the best of English standard, with a turning pendant and the use of 5-knuckle hinges for the inner cuvette and caseback.
The clock watch is a mechanical marvel combining the functions of both a watch and a clock, and were exceptionally made by the finest makers during the 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. While indicating the hours, minutes, and seconds like a standard pocket watch, a clock watch also strikes the time with a chiming mechanism. The present clock watch features not only a minute repeater, but also a grande sonnerie complication that chimes the hours and quarters hours at each quarter. It is fitted with a discrete lever under the bezel allowing the owner to enable or silence the grande sonnerie function, as well as a slide at 4 o’clock for actuating the minute repeater. The going train and striking mechanism are each wound by rotating the crown in opposite directions, respectively.
An extremely rare, exceptional, and historically important open face yellow gold minute repeating grande sonnerie clock watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and moon phase
Frodsham was well-known for precision watches including movements with tourbillon, in which the escapement is driven by the revolving carriage, and Karrusels with the escapement driven by the train. In both cases, these complex mechanics are used to counteract the effects of vertical positional errors and are seen as the pinnacle of watchmaking due to the skill required to manufacture and assemble them.
The present watch numbered 09649, and the companion piece numbered 09572, today in a private collection, feature Nicole Nielson tourbillons, which are considered the finest of the era. Nicole, Nielson & Co was a leading movement manufacturer in the late 19th/early 20th century, known for their complications like the tourbillon carriage and patented chronographs with fly back mechanisms.
This clock watch has a spectacular, hand-made dial with engineturned center and polished chapter ring with black Roman numerals complimented by gold polished subsidiary rings for day of the week, months, leap year indication, date, and seconds with moon phase indication. Breguet-style hands indicate the hours and minutes. The dial is breathtaking in its beauty, and superbly preserved.
When this watch was first offered at auction in 1989, the consignor had inherited the watch from his father, the original owner. A true renaissance man, he was a surgeon of Scottish heritage born in New York, and an accomplished investment banker, frequently using this Charles Frodsham Clock Watch on his three-masted, 147-foot schooner named “Cuttysark” during voyages to the Caribbean. During World War I, he was the General Manager of the American Red Cross in France with the rank of Colonel, and it was suggested that he purchased the watch at that time. The present consignor has owned the watch since its purchase at that auction, and it remains in the identical state of preservation, having never been used since then.
An extremely rare, exceptional, and historically important open face yellow gold minute repeating grande sonnerie clock watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar and moon phase
Manufacturer Charles Frodsham
Year 1917
Movement No. 09649
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Keyless, three quarter plate, going and strike trains fully jewelled in screwed settings, Nicole Nielsen type-1 three arm one minute tourbillon carriage with lever escapement
Dimensions 75mm Diameter
Signed Case London hallmarks for 1917, casemaker initials “HMF” for Harrison Mill Frodsham, dial signed Frodsham, backplate signed “Chas. Frodsham, 27 South Molton St. London, by appointment to the King” with Royal and honor cyphers, numbered 09649 and ADFmsz.
Provenance
Sotheby’s, October 30, 1989, lot 198
Estimate
$200,000–400,000 Σ
€188,000–376,000
Accessories
Associated brass-bound mahogany box
Literature
The present clock watch is described in The Frodshams, The Story of a Family of Chronometer Makers, by Vaudrey Mercer, pp. 209 and 210
Today’s most experienced collectors are keen for rare and unique watches made by hand from the finest horological masters. The present lot is without any doubt, the finest and one of the most complicated timepieces ever made by Charles Frodsham, and quite possibly one of the most important British timepieces ever made. The impressive size, the superb combination of complications, the immaculate condition, and its ultimate rarity come together to make this a museum-quality timepiece that will exceed the demands of even the most demanding scholars, connoisseurs, and collectors.
PROPERTY FROM A PRESTIGIOUS FAMILY COLLECTION
Manufacturer Haldimann
Year 2009
Reference No. H1
Movement No. No. 19
Case No. No. 19
Model Name H1 Flying Central Tourbillon
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual; cal. H-Zen-A
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Haldimann pin buckle
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000 Σ
€75,100–150,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Haldimann Certificate, invoice, and personalized letter.
For over two decades, Beat Haldimann has dedicated himself to crafting timepieces using the most traditional and artisanal methods. The inception of his watchmaking brand began with the creation of his first clock featuring resonance in 2000. Commencing his watchmaking career in 1991 with a goal of making watches without the use of any CNC machines, Haldimann also stumbled upon a surprising family tradition dating back to 1642, compelling him to honor this heritage by personally restoring and servicing all watches bearing the Haldimann name at no cost.
Introduced in 2002, the H1 Flying Central Tourbillon is perhaps Haldimann’s best known model. Featured prominently at the center of the dial is a raised and exposed escapement equipped with a flying tourbillon in a lyre-shaped cage measuring an impressive 17.8mm in diameter—a nod to the large escapements used in historic pocket watches. The in-house, manually wound calibre H-Zen-A within provides a power reserve of 38 hours using three mainspring barrels.
The overall aesthetic of the 39mm platinum case, dial, and hands is stunning—striking a balance between understated elegance and distinctive character. The platinum case provides a luxurious heft when worn, and the bold black dial with hand-engraved numerals contrasts strikingly against the white metal case. The hands, inspired by an 18th-century Haldimann Frères pocket watch, include a seconds indicator driven by the rotation of the flying tourbillon cage.
The present H1 is one of very few examples that Haldimann has produced with a stunning black matte dial. Preserved in outstanding condition and offered with its original certificate, it is an elusive and rarely seen, hand-made masterpiece beckoning the attention of the most discerning collectors of independent brands.
An extremely rare and important yellow gold hunter cased pocket chronometer with eccentric one minute tourbillon regulator
Manufacturer Northern Goldsmiths Company
Year 1918
Movement No. 2052
Case No. 2052
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, gilt three quarter plate straight line lever escapement, 15 jewels
Dimensions 56mm Diameter
Signed Case with London gold hallmarks for 1918 (front cover) and 1922 (back cover), dial and case signed Northern Goldsmiths Company Newcastle Upon Tyne.
Provenance
Antiquorum Important Watches, Wristwatches and Clocks, Basel, April 21, 1990, lot 153.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
Literature
Paul Myatt, “Sidney Better—Watch Springer & Timer”, Antiquarian Horology, March 2011, pages 651-664.
Featured in multiple historically important horological tomes including George Daniels and Cecil Clutton’s Watches , and Reinhard Meis’, Das Tourbillon , the Northern Goldsmiths series of eccentric tourbillon pocket watches are widely considered as some of the finest and most accurate British watches made during the early 20th century.
One of only nine known examples of a possible 15 produced between 1917 and 1922, the present watch was sent to the Kew Observatory for testing in 1919, and received 89.2 marks, earning a Kew A “Especially Good” certificate. Housed within an extremely high-quality 18 karat yellow gold hunter case with 5-knuckle joints and a raised push piece, the frosted gilt three-quarter plate movement exhibits finest quality, hand-made details, such as jewels housed in screwed-in gold chatons, mirror polished bridges and tourbillon cage, and beautifully beveled gear axles.
The tourbillon escapement, of course is the star of the show. The polished steel double-arm bridge, referred to in scholarship as the “Better 1” design attributed to Sidney Better, and houses a “Better type-2” carriage with offset arms. Free-sprung and fitted with a blued steel balance wheel with terminal curve, the entire design was made for maximum timekeeping accuracy—and its Especially Good rating at Kew proves it. Beautifully preserved with its mesmerizing, eccentric tourbillon cage immediately captivating to the eye, it is an exceptional opportunity for the discerning collector.
PROPERTY FROM A PRESTIGIOUS FAMILY COLLECTION
An extremely rare and exceptional white gold and diamond-set asymmetrical wristwatch with additional burgundy red lacquer dial, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Cartier
Year 2001
Case No. 2462119350AF
Model Name Crash
Material 18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre Manual, cal. 8970MC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Cartier deployant buckle
Dimensions 38mm length x 22mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$100,000–200,000 Σ
€93,900–188,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Cartier Certificate of Origin stamped October 29th, 2001, additional silvered dial, instruction manual, product literature, document holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
With the recent resurgence in demand for uniquely shaped watches, Cartier timepieces have become more sought-after than ever, with the Cartier Crash leading the way. Debuting in 1967, the Crash is considered one of the most groundbreaking designs in the watchmaking world, with a backstory that is both intriguing and romantic. Its origins were clarified in 2019 by Francesca Cartier Brickell in her book, The Cartiers , where she details a conversation with her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier, about the design’s inception. At the time Jean-Jacques Cartier was the head of Cartier London, and along with Rupert Emmerson, they modified a Maxi Baignoire Alongée to make it look as if the watch had been in a crash.
Fitted with an extremely attractive burgundy red lacquer dial with white Roman numerals, the watch was originally sold with a silver dial, included with this lot. Purchased by the consignor at auction, he was not satisfied with the aging found on the silver dial. He requested the current, custom replacement burgundy red dial from Cartier Japan, and due to his importance and high profile, his request was granted in an exceptional manner. Unfortunately no documentation was kept of this replacement, however the visual effect, quality, and rarity of the red dial is unmistakeably Cartier.
Accompanied by its full set of accessories as well as its original silver dial, this beautifully preserved Crash features more than just the iconic model’s sinuous curves. Framed in a white gold case that is further embellished with diamonds as well as a diamond cabochon, the watch creates a perfect, tasteful harmony between the brilliance of the case and the timelessly designed dials.
An important, extremely rare and attractive oversized and elongated wristwatch with blue/black dial, retailed by Cartier London
The present model is an indelible part of Cartier’s history, and represents what the brand is best known for: merging form with function. The 1970s was a time of incredible creative turmoil. Spurred by the changes in society, which was veering toward more carefree social rules, designers in every field came up with some of the most intriguing designs to ever appear in any field: from watches, to jewellery, passing through the cars, buildings and of course garment fashion, a true design revolution took place during those years.
London was undoubtedly one the epicentres of this change, and thus it is no surprise that Cartier London created during those years some of the most impressive, creative and iconic designs of its multi-century history.
The present watch is an outstanding example from the Baignoire Allongée series, launched by Cartier London during the late 1960s. While similar in appearance to the Large Oval series by Cartier New York the present watch is distinguished by the London signature on the watch dial, and is slightly smaller than its American counterpart.
An important, extremely rare and attractive oversized and elongated wristwatch with blue/black dial, retailed by Cartier London
Manufacturer Cartier Year Circa 1969
Movement No. 1’997’904
Case No. 9180
Model Name Baignoire Allongée
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 8’’’ 1/4, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Cartier buckle
Dimensions 24mm width x 53mm length
Signed Case and dial signed, movement signed Jaeger LeCoultre, buckle stamped JC.
Provenance
Habsberg, Feldman, May 28, 1990
Estimate
$100,000–200,000
€93,900–188,000
The present watch is rendered even more collectible due to its black/blue dial. It is notably and to the best of our knowledge, only one of two known examples with this dial configuration, with the two watches being only one number apart (the other known example has a serial number of 9181). The latter currently resides in one of the most prestigious watch collections in the world. While both the case and clasp are numbered 9180, the clasp is also stamped with Cartier hallmarks dated 1969 and JC which stands for Jacques Cartier.
The present lot was purchased at auction in 1990 and has remained in the same collection since its acquisition.
An extremely rare, impressive, and museum quality Single Axle rock crystal, jade, diamond, onyx, coral, pearl, and enamel mystery clock with original key and presentation box
So rarely has any brand created such magical, creative, and stupendous clocks as Cartier has. The Maison has created some of the most dazzling Mystery Clocks, with Maurice Coüet creating the movements and construction of the Model A in 1912. Dubbed as “miracles of horology”, in 1925 by La Gazette du Bon Ton, these clocks were unlike anything the market had seen at the time of their launch. So cloaked in mystery were these clocks that in the beginning, even the salespeople at the Cartier boutiques could not properly explain exactly how they worked.
The very first Mystery Clock was notably sold to banker John Pierpont Morgan. While it seems like the hands are floating and suspended, the system works on the basis of optical illusion. The hands are in fact attached by two translucent disks that are driven by a clock movement hidden within the base. The movement construction was based on the creation of French clockmaker and illusionist Jean Eugène Robert-Houdin in the 1830s. As a pioneer of modern illusionism, he paved the way for other watchmakers and illusionists, such as Maurice Coüet. Coüet came from a long line of watchmakers, whose father and grandfather worked for Breguet. He later moved to Paris to set up his own business, and exclusively created table clocks for Cartier. The present watch, The Central Axle Clock, used a single central axle where the axle goes through the base, rather than the earlier double axle system introduced in 1920.
Throughout the 1920s, Coüet continued to produce Mystery Clocks for the Maison, using a myriad of materials to embellish Cartier’s fantastical clocks. Indeed, the 1920s was an exceptional period for design. Following the economic crash in 1929 and the Great Depression that followed, a sense of uncertainty filled the vacuum created by the economic downturn. As a result, luxury jewelry houses and watch manufactures tried to encourage spending by introducing exquisitely decorated objects inspired by all walks of life, conjuring images of glamour, exoticism including India, Egypt, and most of all, Asia. During this period, a hunger for novelty, luxury, and frivolity became widespread, with jewelry and objets d’art being the perfect expression of their newfound freedom and a means of escape.
Each made by hand, Cartier lavishly adorned its Mystery clocks with an array of designs and materials, ranging from nephrite to jasper, to diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies. Always expensive, they were never meant to be produced for mass consumption. The designs were created by Charles Jacques or Georges Remy. While the examples from the 1920s were more fantastical and displayed chinoiserie or Egyptian themes, examples from the 1950s onwards were more sculptural, experimenting with form and shape.
An extremely rare, impressive, and museum quality Single Axle rock crystal, jade, diamond, onyx, coral, pearl, and enamel mystery clock with original key and presentation box
Made by Cartier France, but sold by Cartier London, the present single Axle Clock, measuring approximately 27.5cm in height and 13.5cm in width, is an exceedingly impressive specimen. Made in rock crystal, jade, diamond, onyx, coral, pearl, turquoise, and enamel, it is a magnificent piece of art, most notably influenced by Far Eastern design motifs. It also weight an impressive 7.8 pounds due to sheer heft of all the materials—impressive given its svelte appearance. Above the heavy base sides a rock crystal dial encased by a beautiful turquoise lacquer surround. Suspended in the dial surrounded by 12 sides are hands rendered in diamonds and onyx, in the shape of a dragon. While
the hour hand represents the head of the dragon, the minutes hand represents the tail. The use of the dragon is especially fitting here. In Chinese cultural imagery, the dragon is a symbol of the emperor, the almighty leader who mediated between Heaven and Earth and is often depicted rising from clouds and waves, symbolizing fortune and prosperity. Auspiciously, this year (2024) we celebrate the Year of the Dragon in the Chinese Zodiac. As an even nicer touch, the mystery clock retains its original fitted presentation box and original numbered key, with the Cartier hand stamped number corresponding to the one on the clock.
Single Axle Mystery Clock “Pendule Mystérieuse”
Manufacturer Cartier
Year Circa 1926
Case No. 1179 and 1533
Model Name Single Axle Mystery Clock “Pendule Mystérieuse”
Material Yellow gold, rock crystal, jade, diamond, onyx, coral, pearl and enamel
Calibre Manual key winding
Dimensions Approximately 27.5cm in height and 13.5cm in width
Signed Case signed and further stamped with Cartier hand stamped numbers, movement with hand stamped numbers, key stamped 1179 (matching the clock).
Provenance
Christie’s New York, “Three Magnificent Art Deco Cartier Clocks”, April 25 1990, lot 342.
Estimate
$300,000–600,000 Σ
€282,000–563,000
Accessories
Accompanied by original Cartier presentation box and numbered key. 100. An extremely rare, impressive, and museum quality Single Axle rock crystal, jade, diamond, onyx, coral, pearl, and enamel mystery clock with original key and presentation box
Having first appeared on the market three decades ago, this historically significant clock will most likely remain hidden and cherished again for many years to come. Its public sale at auction offers a unique chance to acquire not only an intricate and beautiful piece of horological history, but also an historically significant museum-quality Art Deco piece.
PROPERTY OF A GENTLEMAN
Single Axle Mystery Clock “Pendule Mystérieuse”
First created in the early 1900s, the desk clock was Cartier’s perfect canvas to showcase its unbridled creativity. The desk clock is a result of two guiding principles—merging a beautifully and intricately crafted work of art with horology.
The creation of the desk clock perfectly coincides with Cartier’s first foray into the Far East. In 1901, Louis Cartier tasked one of his best salesmen, Jules Glaenzer, to asses its potential as a commercial center. Coming back, Glaenzer not only discovered another culture a world apart, but had also filled his pockets with curiosities, gems and treasures from the Far East. What started as a commercial trip turned into one of the biggest cultural inspirations for the illustrious jeweler.
Created by Cartier Paris, the present clock also known as the Pendulette à Chevalet, is from the 1920s and inspired by the Far East. It is fitted with a striking jade bangle around the dial—an obvious nod to the Asian influence on design—designed to look like an easel. Lotus motifs furthermore surround the rock crystal. The Lotus is a particularly powerful symbol, representing purity, rebirth, and divinity. Rock crystal is further suspended outside the dial, with diamond-set Roman numerals, providing for a very striking and impressive appearance.
Most interestingly, a similar clock also displaying a jade bangle with enamel and diamond accents is housed within the Cartier collection and illustrated in Cartier Collection Horlogerie by Francois Chaille and Franco Cologni. Both the present lot and the one in Cartier’s collection bear movements made by Longines. Indeed, the Longines Extract that accompanied this clock states that the present movement was delivered to Longines’ former agent for France in 1920, destined to fit a “Pendulette”.
The panels provide the perfect canvas for an artisan to showcase his or her ability to create exquisite motifs and showcase a variety of gem-setting. To apply lacquer or enamel on the panels requires extreme delicate handling, technical virtuosity, and artistic sensibility. To furthermore fit panels of hard stone like lapis lazuli, rock crystal requires extreme dexterity and know-how.
A fine and rare jade, rock crystal, and black enamel desk clock with black lacquer indices and diamond-set numerals
Manufacturer Cartier
Year Circa 1930
Movement No. 2’980’400
Case No. 2’980’400 and 0995
Model Name Pendulette à Chevalet
Material Jade, rock crystal, and black enamel desk
Calibre Manual, 19 jewels
Dimensions Approx. 90mm Diameter
Signed Movement signed Longines, case signed Cartier Paris, and furthermore stamped with Cartier hand stamped numbers.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000 Σ
€75,100–150,000
Accessories
Accompanied by presentation box. Further accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confirming delivery of the moment to Longines’ former agent in France in 1920.
The unparalleled condition and quality of the present desk clock underlies its importance. It was during the 1920s and 1930s that Cartier was arguably at its most productive, manufacturing pieces of unsurpassed quality and ingenuity.
PROPERTY OF A GENTLEMAN
A very rare and early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical” dial, tidal indication, and regatta countdown, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch
Manufacturer Heuer Seafarer
Year Circa 1952
Reference No. 346
Movement No. 752’690, stamped AXF
Case No. 80’253
Model Name Seafarer “First Execution”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 71, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Heuer has long been associated with precision timekeeping, and known for some of the most sophisticated tool chronographs of the mid 20th century. The Seafarer and Mareograph are two wonderful examples from this period with the Mareographe, the Heuer-branded, European counterpart of the Seafarer model retailed by the Abercrombie & Fitch Co in the USA. The famed American sporting goods company saw its earliest iteration in the Heuer Solunar, a time-only watch created by Jack Heuer in the 1940s featuring a unique, brightly colored tidal indicator at 6 o’clock. Though the Solunar was ultimately unsuccessful, Heuer would combine the tidal indicator of the Solunar with a chronograph function, resulting in the Seafarer and Mareographe models.
The present model is a very rare example with a first iteration dial, which has turned a lovely uniform caramel hue. The watch is housed in a Heuer reference 346 chronograph case with screw-down case back, opposed to later models with the snap on “Compressor” style case. The dial features oversized registers with the minute register at 3 o’clock featuring two blue segments, marking 0 to 5 minutes and 10 to 15 minutes used at the start of a yachting race. At 9 o’clock is the unique, colorful tidal register.
The present watch was last seen in public when first offered by the family of the original owner in 2017. It has remained in an important American collection, preserved in excellent overall condition. The rarity of the model is matched by the rarity of the “tropical” dial, which has aged to a wonderfully warm, caramel colour that is uniform throughout. It presents collectors with an opportunity to own a hardly ever seen, uniquely American watch with wonderful character and charm.
An extremely rare and very attractive stainless steel fly-back chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silvered dial, black markers, and blue tachymeter scale
Manufacturer Longines Year 1942
Reference No. 5009, batch number 21922
Movement No. 6’291’164
Model Name Anti-Magnetique
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 13ZN, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Suede
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Provenance
START-STOP-RESET: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronograph:
Geneva Auction May 14, 2016
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confirming the sale of the watch on July 21, 1942 to Ostersetzer, the Longines agent in Italy.
The present lot is distinguished by its large case and stunning aesthetics that make it one of the most attractive vintage chronograph watches one could hope to own. Its two-tone silvered dial is timeless and masculine, yet at the same time, utterly beautiful and practical, with oversized registers and a blue outer tachymeter scale.
Housing the prestigious Longines caliber 13ZN with fly-back mechanism, it boasts an equally high-grade movement that is considered by many scholars to be amongst the ultimate chronograph calibers in terms of sophistication, design, and finish.
Combined with its oversized case, outstanding state of preservation, and uncompromised quality, the example presented here is a true treasure for discerning collectors of vintage watches.
A very fine and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, black dial, diamond hour markers and original guarantee, retailed by Jost, Genova
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1953
Reference No. 6305
Movement No. 65’630
Case No. 948’395
Model Name Oyster Perpetual “Datejust”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 745, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Rolex gold plated buckle
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by original Rolex Certificate.
Throughout Rolex’s history, the “crowned” firm has continued to constantly innovate classic styles established early on in the company’s history. The Datejust is one of the most beloved models in the company, first introduced in 1945, and still in production today.
The present reference 6305 is highly sought after and rare, as it features a very unusual dial, and remains to be one of the most exclusive, early Datejusts known to date. This remarkable example from circa 1953 features a roulette date wheel and black dial with an uncommon hour marker configuration of diamonds and applied gold daggers, with a similar pattern seen exclusively on the triple calendar with moon phase reference 6062. To date, there are only three examples of the reference 6062 with a similar dial, including the famed “Bao Dai”.
This watch was originally retailed by Jost in Genova, still retaining the Jost strap, and is accompanied by the original Rolex guarantee. With its coin-edge bezel and extremely wellpreserved case, this watch is a truly spectacular Datejust rarely, if ever, seen on the market.
105. A very rare, fine, and well-preserved yellow gold wristwatch with deep blue enamel dial
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1953
Reference No. 6102
Movement No. 96’770 and F84’351
Case No. 902’588
Model Name Oyster Perpetual “Bombé”
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 645, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Yellow gold Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions 32.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000 Σ
€46,900–93,900
During the late 1940s and 1950s, Rolex along with other celebrated Geneva watchmakers, such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin to name a few, would offer their most important customers their most exclusive watches. In certain instances, these watches would have translucent or cloisonné enamel dials depicting different themes, typically featuring maps of various parts of the world, or mythical creatures.
The present Rolex reference 6102, also referred to as the “Bombé”, was made in 1953, and impresses with its richly shimmering dial of sapphire blue. Renowned Genevan dial maker, Stern Frères, made stunning dials such as these and each one is designated with its own code. The first number would be the company, which in this instance is Rolex, followed by a star for the dial maker, Stern. The final part of the code is the actual job number, which is specific to each dial. The job number helps us to figure out how many of each dial was made, along with the designated name of the dial decoration.
Along the outer rim of the enamel dial is a minute track made of hand engraved “pearls”. The dial is graced with beautiful faceted hour markers and gilt writing. After surviving more than 70 years, this watch is presented in wonderful condition and is a superb gem for collectors.
106. A luxurious and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne dial, bracelet, and service card
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1979
Reference No. 6265
Movement No. 7’791
Case No. 5’996’135
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max overall length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, reference 7205, stamped RS4
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$70,000–140,000
€65,700–131,000
Accessories
Accompanied by additional Rolex deployant clasp in 18K yellow gold stamped E for 1980, Rolex service card dated May 31st, 2013, and Rolex embroidered tapestry leather presentation box.
The Daytona reference 6265 was introduced to the market in 1969, and ceased production in 1987. While the reference was mainly cased in stainless steel, limited amounts were also cased in 18K or 14K yellow gold. As the Daytona was first and foremost a tool watch for professional drivers, the public mostly looked for the light and resistant steel version; the heavy, flashy, and more delicate gold variation made little sense at the time. Thus, notwithstanding over its nearly two decade production run, it is estimated that no more than 2000 examples were cased in gold.
One of the properties of the Rolex caliber 727 (found on references 6262, 6263, 6264, and 6265) is that it had the potential to be regulated as a chronometer. While, however, steel Daytonas were not certified by COSC, the gold versions, doubtlessly due to their higher prestige, were indeed sent to COSC for certification. Thus, with some very early exceptions, they bear already the script now ubiquitous on all Daytonas: Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified.
Accompanied by an unusual and attractive 1980s period Rolex presentation box with floral “tapestry” embroidery, as well as a Rolex service card from 2013, this crisply preserved, attractive, and versatile 6265 in 18K yellow gold, paired with champagne dial is a luxurious iteration on the icon known as the Cosmograph Daytona.
An exceedingly rare and foundational yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with telemeter and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1946
Reference No. 4537 stamped to the inner caseback
Case No. 470’744
Model Name Oyster Chronograph
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Launched in 1946, Rolex’s reference 4537 was manufactured for a short period of time and is amongst the rarest of all vintage Rolex chronograph wristwatches. Cased in yellow gold, pink gold and stainless steel, this was Rolex’s earliest three register chronograph wristwatch housed in a 36mm Oyster case with water-resistant pump pushers and a screw-down case back. Research suggests that Rolex produced no more than 100 watches with this reference, in both stainless steel and gold variations, and possibly less than a quarter of that in 18K yellow gold. Many of this watch’s key design elements would later heavily influence the look of the first Daytona, such as the signature Oyster case, round pushers, and three subsidiary counters.
With a well-preserved dial displaying vivid graphics, the present reference 4537 is an exceptionally rare iteration of one of Rolex’s most coveted complications—the chronograph.
Ref. 4537 Oyster Chronograph Pre-Daytona “The Ancestor”
An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Desert Eagle”
Rolex has created some of the most surprising, beautiful, and unusual watches for the Arab States in the Gulf. The manufacture’s custom pieces date back to the 1950s, when Rolex fitted Arabic discs to the most luxurious Day-Date models.
Beginning in the 1970s, the United Arab Emirates and its seven Arab nations specially commissioned watches from Rolex to be given as gifts for high-ranking officials, foreign dignitaries, and diplomats. Today, they are coveted treasures sought after by collectors around the world.
One of the rarest of these commission pieces is the Cosmograph Daytona “Desert Eagle”, made upon special request for Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Minister of Defense for the United Arab Emirates beginning in 1971, and currently the Ruler of Dubai since 2006. This example was part of a small order of timepieces.
Rendered in polychrome relief printing, the UAE emblem (the Quraysh Hawk) is emblazoned at 12 o’clock, with the signature of United Arab Emirates proudly displayed below. While the modern emblem shows the colors of the flag within the chest of the hawk, in the 1970s and 1980s, the crest displayed an Arabian sailboat with two sails—a single sail sailboat is visible on the family emblem of the House of Al Maktoum, one of the ruling families of the UAE.
An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with UAE Quraysh Hawk dial and bracelet, made for Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1975
Reference No. 6263; inside caseback additionally stamped 6264
Case No. 4’027’945
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Desert Eagle”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78350, endlinks stamped 571, max overall length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78350, stamped DE9
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$180,000–360,000
€169,000–338,000
Most intriguingly, above 6 o’clock is not the signature of the Ministry of Defense (Wazarah Ad Difa’A) as seen in several other examples, but the personal signature of Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. Thus, while the Ministry of Defense examples bear serial numbers close together, probably ordered for multiple ministers, those examples bearing the personal signature were likely one-off orders as special gifts and are extremely rare.
Interestingly this is one of the very rare instances where Rolex removed its name from the dial to make place for the “Quraysh Hawk”. Preserved in excellent overall condition, we are thrilled to offer this “Desert Eagle” Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, emblazoned with the personal signature of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.
An extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 1973
Reference No. 5402 ST
Movement No. 142’421
Case No. A959; 67’959
Model Name Royal Oak A-Series “Khanjar”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. K2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Audemars Piguet stainless steel link bracelet, max length 180mm, further signed Gay Frères.
Clasp/Buckle
Audemars Piguet deployant clasp, stamped 1.72.
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000
€75,100–150,000
Introduced in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak marked a pivotal moment in horological history as the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch featuring an integrated bracelet. Conceived overnight by renowned designer Gerald Genta, it not only shattered conventional norms but also set a new benchmark for luxury in stainless steel. Notably, its octagonal bezel, secured by eight hexagonal white gold screws, accentuated its maritime allure. Although revered today as a horological icon, its launch was more than a mere gamble; it heralded a visionary revolution, laying the foundation for the contemporary dominance of luxury steel sports watches.
Distinguished by its black dial, devoid of the customary tapisserie motif but embellished with refined diamond markers and prominently displaying the royal “Khanjar” daggers at 6 o’clock, the present reference 5402 stands apart from regular production models. Records indicate that in the spring of 1973, Audemars Piguet ordered a batch of six dials without the tapisserie motif, featuring diamond-set indexes and an emblem at 6 o’clock. His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman, well known as an avid collector and aficionado of horology, frequently commissioned timepieces from esteemed manufactures to bestow upon loyal friends and foreign dignitaries. Assuming the throne on July 23, 1970, this makes the present watch likely one of the earliest gifts bestowed during his reign.
Offered in impeccable condition, the present “A Series” example stands out as one of the mere handful known to bear the prestigious Khanjar emblem, having been commissioned by His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman. Combined with the original steel Jumbo case, it is the perfect watch for those seeking an iconic A-series Royal Oak with an extraordinary dial
A brand new, highly attractive, and rare pink gold
perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet, moon phase, leap year, weekly indication, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2022
Reference No. 26574OR
Movement No. B09661
Case No. HM2755W
Model Name Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 5134, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet bracelet stamped “1220” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000
€75,100–150,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Guarantee card, product literature, self-winding presentation box and outer packaging.
Among the myriad variations of the Royal Oak introduced since its inception in 1972, those with perpetual calendar stand out as one of the most coveted within the Royal Oak lineup. Several factors contribute to its allure: the incongruity of having a perpetual calendar in a luxury sports watch, the horological sophistication of the complication which has long been regarded as a pinnacle of watchmaking, the inherent rarity bestowed upon these timepieces due to their labor-intensive movements, and the exquisite aesthetic harmony of the resulting dial configuration. The present reference 26574 in stunning pink gold boasts a striking contrast with its deep blue dial, creating a visually captivating effect against the warm tones of the gold case.
Offered in brand new condition with all original factory stickers and plastic guard in place, the watch is accompanied by its original guarantee card, winding box, and outer packaging, making it an exceptional opportunity for discerning collectors.
A fine and very attractive pink gold wristwatch with date, power reserve and moon phase with guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2022
Reference No. 139.032
Movement No. 124’423
Case No. 255’382
Model Name Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. L095.3, 45 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 40.9mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000 Σ
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne guarantee dated April 7, 2022, fitted presentation box, setting pin, leather envelope, A. Lange & Söhne numbered sticker tag with bar code, product literature and outer packaging.
A Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 family is a superb modern classic. First released in 1994, the collection displays a contemporary look, which a quarter of a century later, has a sophisticated appeal for its design and technical innovation. The dial is clear and legible with the now famous patented oversized date apertures inspired by the Five-Minute Clock of the Semper Opera House in Dresden. The off center hours indication further set the brand apart from all others with their incredible vision. Since its inception, the Lange 1 line has transformed from a “simple” time-only wristwatch with date to include a variety of complications from moon phase and perpetual calendar to size differences from the Little Lange 1 with a 36mm case to the present Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase with a 41mm diameter case.
The brand released the Grand Lange 1 model in 2003 with an oversized 41.9mm diameter case. In 2012, Lange redesigned the Grande Lange 1, reducing its diameter to 40.9mm. The Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase, with the updated caliber L095.3, was released in 2014 and included a moon phase sector at 12 o’clock within the offset time display.
A. Lange & Söhne is renowned for their high quality, masterful movements, and the present watch is a wonderful representation of their standards. In 18 karat pink gold and wellpreserved in excellent condition, it is offered complete with its original accessories.
A.
LANGE & SÖHNERef. 139.032 Grande Lange 1 Moonphase
A fine and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, leap year indication and officer-style hinged caseback with Certificate of Origin and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 1999
Reference No. 5059J-015
Movement No. 1’958’004
Case No. 4’066’602
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 315 S-QR, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000 Σ
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated December 24, 1999, wooden presentation box, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
The reference 5059 was introduced in 1998 to replace the previous reference 5050, the first serially produced perpetual calendar with a retrograde date by Patek Philippe. Discontinued in 2006, it was produced in all four precious metals and is particularly noteworthy for its “officer”-style hinged caseback and elongated lugs with screwed pins. Though the case diameter measures 36 millimeters, the shape and size of the lugs, as well as the thickness of the case and its domed bezel, give the 5059 a significant presence on the wrist. Encased in yellow gold, it is particularly elegant and sublime, even more so given the stark white dial contrasted with the painted black Roman numerals.
The automatic caliber 315 S-QR with 21K gold rotor is a robust, state-of-the-art in-house movement featuring an intriguing retrograde date complication as part of its perpetual calendar function. At the end of each month, the date hand automatically flies back to its original starting point—a very difficult function to reliably implement in watchmaking.
Offered with its Certificate of Origin and with day and month indicators in Italian, the present lot is very well-preserved. The reference 5059 and its contemporary reference 5050 are the successors to a long line of perpetual calendar wristwatches, and the first offered by the brand since the iconic reference 2497 was discontinued in 1963.
An elegant and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, 24-hour indication, leap year indication, zero-reset function, guarantee and winding box
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2005
Reference No. 310.021
Movement No. 49’439
Case No. 163’345
Model Name Langematik Perpetual
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. L922.1, 43 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$18,000–36,000 Σ
€16,900–33,800
Accessories
Accompanied by original A. Lange & Söhne international guarantee booklet, instruction manual, watch winder manual, setting pin, winding presentation box, and outer box.
A.Lange & Söhne introduced their first automatic movement with the Langematik Sax-O-Mat in 1997 featuring an exquisite, gold and platinum-rimmed winding rotor. It is from these early beginnings that the Langematik Perpetual was born—originally launched at the turn of the new millennium, in 2001. It was first made available in platinum and yellow gold. While early examples had a rectangular pusher to change the date, in later examples, such as the present lot, Lange replaced it with a recessed pusher to prevent accidental activation.
In classic Lange style—form and function in harmony—their interpretation of the perpetual calendar features a “zero-reset” feature for precision timing so that when the crown is pulled out, the constant seconds hand automatically resets to zero. The oversized date windows further provide legibility, and the exquisite gold rotor rimmed in platinum accents a beautifully decorated movement.
With a beautiful patina beginning to appear on the watch, the present Langematik Perpetual with all of its original accessories is Lange’s answer to the classic and beloved perpetual calendar complication—one that is a marvel and future icon in and of itself.
“Langematik Perpetual”
ORVIS An interesting and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tidal and AM/PM indicator
Manufacturer Orvis
Year Circa 1975
Reference No. 2446 SF
Case No. 324’111
Model Name Orvis Solunagraph
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. Valjoux 723, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Nylon NATO
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pass-through
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Dial signed Orvis. Case and movement signed Heuer.
Estimate
$8,000–16,000
€7,500–15,000
First established in Manchester, Vermont in 1856, family-owned company Orvis has specialized in supporting outdoor lifestyles since before the Civil War. Always with a focus on fishing and hunting, their expansion in the 1970s and 1980s brought increased revenue streams, one of which was a partnership with Heuer to “white label” Heuer sports watches and tailor them for the specific needs of their customers.
Essentially an Autavia reference 2446C, the waterproof compressor case is instantly recognizable, and in this instance, likely unpolished with its original bevels and finishing intact. The dial features a vivid “Carolina blue” tidal indicator. This can be adjusted to track not only tidal ebbs and flows and lunar phases, but also the feeding periods of fish and game as needed.
Interestingly, the present watch was found in a “grab bag” of watches purchased for $1 at a local Goodwill. The sides of the lugs feature very shallow, amateur engravings that were likely a cheat sheet for setting the tidal indicator—though we have not been able to figure out the exact meanings. A second series Orvis Solunagraph dating from the mid-1970s, this is an exciting find in a world where such discoveries are becoming less and less commonplace.
EBERHARD A highly attractive and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with stop function, tachymeter scale, and telemeter scale
Manufacturer Eberhard Year Circa 1940
Movement No. 28’147
Case No. 1’012’193
Model Name Pre Extra-Fort
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 16’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold pin buckle
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$8,000–16,000
€7,500–15,000
Accessories
Accompanied by period Eberhard & Co. hang tag.
During the mid-20th century, Eberhard & Co. gained recognition for its sports watches and chronographs, catering to the growing interest in functional timepieces such as chronographs. The brand’s commitment to innovation was further exemplified by the launch of the “Extra-Fort” collection, known for its robust design and advanced features.
From a technical standpoint, Eberhard & Co. made a distinctive choice by outfitting the new model with a Valjoux 65 caliber. Notably, they implemented updated modifications aimed at accentuating its role as a professional instrument. A revolutionary feature for the time was the incorporation of a single push-button for both stopping and restarting the chronograph functions. Therefore, when the complication was active, pressing the pusher didn’t reset the seconds sphere to zero but instead initiated a fresh measurement from the beginning.
The present example is preserved in outstanding condition and retains all of its original factory finishes on the case, even its original caseback sticker. To go along with the beautiful yellow gold case, the watch is also equipped with a complementary champagne colored dial. At 40mm, it boasted a truly substantial dimension for its era, providing the dial with a prominent role within the timepiece. 115.
LONGINES WITTNAUER
A rare, early and attractive oversized stainless steel aviator’s wristwatch with enamel dial, center seconds, and hang tag
Manufacturer Longines Wittnauer
Year 1941
Movement No. 6’035’475, stamped LXW
Case No. 21’123
Model Name Weems Second Setting Watch
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 37.9, 15 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Metal pin buckle
Dimensions 47mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate
$10,000–20,000
€9,400–18,800
Accessories
Accompanied by original numbered hang tag. Further accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confirming the sale of the present watch on March 28, 1941 to the Longines-Wittnauer Company.
In 1927, Charles Lindbergh became the first person to fly nonstop between New York and Paris. A skilled aviator, Lindbergh was not proficient in navigation by the sun and stars, and made his historic voyage using dead reckoning, the process of calculating the current position of a moving object using a previously fixed position and incorporating speed, heading, and elapsed time. As the aeronautics field grew so too did the demand for accurate methods of navigation and naval Captain Philip van Horne Weems was instrumental in early 20th century celestial navigation. His Weems Second Setting watch with a rotating center dial allows the seconds hand to be synchronized with a reference clock to enable navigators to determine longitude.
The present example was retailed on March 28, 1941 to Longines-Wittnauer, the Longines USA agent at the time, in accordance with the ‘LXW’ import code found on the movement. The 47mm case is in excellent condition, and the white enamel chapter ring is free from any visible defects, as is the rotating center dial. The watch is accompanied by the original numbered hang tag and Longines extract. Early 20th century tool watches are highly collectible both for their mechanical innovations, and for insight into the history of horology. The Weems Second Setting watch is a wonderful reminder of this period
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 1990s
Reference No. 3800/1
Movement No. 1’428’927
Case No. 2’885’174
Model Name Nautilus
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 330 SC, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 175mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Patek Philippe’s Nautilus model is a milestone timepiece and is one of the most sought after since it was first introduced in 1976. This luxury stainless steel waterproof sports wristwatch was the brand’s response to the growing quartz crisis following the enormous success of quartz watches coming from Japan. In an effort to attract new buyers with a casual sporty timepiece, the Gerald Genta-designed Nautilus was reminiscent of transatlantic ocean liners’ portholes, and named for Captain Nemo’s submarine in the beloved Jules Verne adventure “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea”. The original reference 3700 was at the time the most expensive stainless steel luxury sports watch, measuring an astonishing 42mm in diameter. Over time it became known as the “Jumbo” for what was considered its oversized dimensions at the time.
In 1981, Patek Phillipe expanded the Nautilus line with the reference 3800/1A. Smaller in size at 37.5mm diameter, the new timepiece was an alternative to the larger 3700 model. The watch was offered with the standard blue grey ribbed dial, but also with the rarer semi-glossy black dial with Roman numerals, and like the present example with white ribbed dial. The reference was in production from 1981 until 2006, and manufactured in four series with movement upgrades over its 25 year history.
The present lot is in excellent overall condition and a wonderful example of this iconic wristwatch.
118. A fine and rare white gold wristwatch with “tropical” black lacquer dial, sweep center seconds, date, and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex Year 1965
Reference No. 1601
Movement No. D’035’947
Case No. 1’148’970
Model Name Datejust
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, 185mm maximum length, end links stamped 53
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex folding deployant clasp stamped Rolex SA, 2.67
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
The Rolex Datejust stands as an enduring icon within the horological world, embodying both timeless elegance and technical innovation since its introduction in 1945. As the world’s first self-winding wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock, the Datejust revolutionized the watch industry by combining features such as the waterproof Oyster case and the “perpetual” self-winding movement. With its ability to effortlessly transition from formal occasions to everyday wear, the Datejust has become a “must-have” staple in the collections of watch enthusiasts.
The present example cased in white gold is made ever more appealing by its unique tropical lacquered dial, a feature that captivates with its clear reflection of the passage of time. Typically, a tropical dial is achieved through different exposures to various environmental elements. In this case, the dial has transformed from black to a very warm caramel brown.
Fitted on a period 18 karat white gold Jubiliee bracelet, the present Rolex reference 1601 in 18 karat white gold with a tropical dial not only adds a touch of vintage charm but also enhances its value as a cherished timepiece with a story to tell.
Ref. 1601 Datejust “18K White Gold, Tropical”
A virtually unworn and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, “latte” colored registers, caseback sticker, hang tag, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1998
Reference No. 16520
Case No. U’165’461
Model Name Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78390, endlinks stamped 503B, max overall length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78390, stamped Z10
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee, leather cardholder, service booklet, calendar card for 1998-1999, product literature, fitted presentation box, numbered hang tag, and wax seal tag.
First released in 1988, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 16520 was the firm’s first Daytona model to feature a selfwinding caliber. The reliable Zenith El Primero, considered as one of the best self-winding chronograph movements at the time, was chosen as the base which Rolex further upgraded to achieve their remarkable caliber 4030. Discontinued in 2000, it was replaced by the reference 116520 featuring Rolex’s first in-house self-winding chronograph movement. Fitted with the last outsourced caliber—which also put some constraints on the production, as Zenith was only able to deliver so many movements per year—reference 16520 is today one of the most collectible Daytona references, combining a modern 40mm case with vintage charm and eternal practicality.
The present watch was previously purchased at auction in June of 1998. At the time, the watch was brand new and fresh from the factory, having been consigned by the original owner, who had purchased it only four months previously. The current consignor purchased the watch in brand new condition at auction in 1998, and it has remained impeccably preserved in his collection for the past 26 years, complete with its caseback sticker and hang tag still attached to the bracelet. The current consignor also purchased the following lot in that June 1998 sale, and it is now being offered as lot 123 in the present sale.
This U-serial 16520 bears subdial registers that have acquired a delicate and lovely tropical hue—a café au lait that is more lait than café.
Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “Café Au Lait, Time Capsule”
An attractive, sporty, and well-preserved yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with date, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 2000
Reference No. 16618; inside caseback further stamped 16610
Movement No. 9’004’327
Case No. P’616’024
Model Name Submariner Date
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet with diver’s extension, endlinks stamped 93256, max overall approx. length 225mm (without diver’s extension)
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, reference 93256, stamped DE2
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee dated December 2001 with country code for Germany, serial number hang tag, wax tag, product literature, information booklet, inner wooden box with insert, and outer packaging.
An opulent variation of the quintessential diver’s wristwatch, the Rolex Submariner reference 16618 remained in production from 1988 until 2008. It features relatively thinner traditional case dimensions, with an aluminum bezel insert no longer in use by the brand. Combined with the outstanding Rolex 3135 automatic caliber with quick-set date function, the yellow gold case and bracelet add an aura of sophistication to this classic diver’s timepiece.
Preserved in excellent condition and with all of its original accessories, the present “P-series” ref 16618 sold in 2001 marries the past and future of the Rolex Submariner, with a vintage feel and modern mechanics.
A very rare, highly collectible and extremely attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial, bracelet, guarantee, and box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 1969
Reference No. 6238
Case No. 1’836’316
Model Name “Pre-Daytona”
Material 14K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 722, 17 jewels, stamped “ROW”
Bracelet/Strap 14K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet with riveted links, max length 185mm stamped “57” to the endlinks
Clasp/Buckle 14K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “D”
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee booklet dated June 10, 1969, and presentation box.
A milestone of Rolex’s chronograph history, the reference 6238, known as the “Pre-Daytona”, was produced in a variety of dial combinations, encased in stainless steel, 14K or 18K yellow gold. They were fitted with silver, grey, or black dials, with tachymeter and/or telemeter scales printed directly on the dials differentiating them from their successors, the Cosmograph Daytona.
The present reference 6238 is an incredibly rare example cased in 14K gold with black dial. Mostly used by Rolex for watches destined for the American market, 14K gold had lower import duties than 18K gold. Indeed the movement of the present watch confirms this theory, as it is stamped ‘ROW’—the import code required by the U.S.
While the gold purity’s nuance appeals to the most cerebral Rolex collectors, the rare black dial can be admired and enjoyed even by the most uneducated observer. While black dials are the norm for Rolex sports from the mid-1950s forward (e.g., Submariners, GMT-Masters), the opposite holds true for earlier Rolex watches. When a black dial appears on models such as the ref. 6062, ref. 8171, or pre-Daytona chronographs, enthusiasts know they are in the presence of something extremely special.
Fitted with a matte black Rolex service dial in flawless condition, a reference 6238 from this era would have originally been fitted with a glossy dial. With “SWISS” designation at 6 o’clock, in our opinion, the dial was most likely produced without luminous accents in the 1960s. Mounted in recent years by Rolex, the manufacture employed SuperLuminova to realize the accents at the moment of mounting the dial. Offered exceptionally with its rarely seen original box and guarantee, the present watch will certainly delight its future owner.
Ref. 6238 Pre-Daytona “14K Yellow Gold”
An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “explorer” underline dial, pointed crownguards, bracelet, guarantee booklet, and service guarantee
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1963
Reference No. 5513 inside caseback stamped III.63
Case No. 999’943
Model Name Submariner “Explorer Underline”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster stretch bracelet, endlinks stamped 60
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.64
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$80,000–160,000
€75,100–150,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee booklet dated July 24, 1964 and Rolex service guarantee card dated December 19, 2014.
Introduced around 1962, the Rolex reference 5513, alongside its counterpart the reference 5512, marked the inception of Submariner models equipped with crown guards. Prior iterations, such as the reference 6538 and 5508, featured no crown guards, a design Rolex soon deemed too delicate for the robust nature of a tool watch.
The present example, however, transcends being merely a striking reference 5513; it boasts several exclusive features that render it one of the most coveted of all Submariners. Most notably, it showcases the rare “Explorer dial” or “3-6-9 dial” configuration.
Primarily associated with the Explorer I, hence its moniker, this dial type also appears on “Big Crown” Submariners like references 6200, 6538, and 5510, as well as later references 5512 and 5513 featuring crown guards. Produced only during the first half of the 1960s, references 5512 and 5513 with “Explorer” dials are exceedingly scarce and highly sought after by collectors.
Upon closer examination, another captivating detail emerges: an underline beneath the depth rating. Dubbed the “underline,” this feature was employed in the early 1960s to signify the transition from radium to tritium on the dial. The dial’s lacquered surface remains well-preserved, highly reflective with only minor signs of aging in the form of light spotting.
First sold at auction by the original owner in June 2021 and bought by the current consignor, the original owner purchased the watch on a trip to London. Further elevating the watch’s importance, it comes accompanied by its original Rolex guarantee booklet and Rolex service guarantee from December 2014.
A very rare and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Mark 2
First debuting in 1969, the references 6263 and 6265 in stainless steel notably featured screw-down pushers engineered for increased water resistance, and remained in production until 1987, when they were replaced by the automatic reference 16520.
Like the earliest pump pusher references 6239 and 6241, Singer produced “exotic” dials for their screw-down pusher descendants (including the 6240). Now known as “Paul Newman” dials, the predominantly white version fitted to the upgraded pump pusher references 6262 and 6264, as well as the 6263 and 6265 loses the red outer scale and retains only the white and black color scheme known today to collectors as the “Panda” dial. Inside the timepiece beats the caliber 727, an evolution from the caliber 722-1 and 72 A, present on Rolexes from 1969 until 1987.
Still absolutely relevant for today’s tastes, the “Paul Newman Panda” was not an immediate success—this forced Rolex to reduce and cease production quite rapidly, inevitably making those few Paul Newman reference 6263 and 6265 extremely rare and sought after today. Even in such a contracted production period, myriad small changes and upgrades were made to such details as the printing of the dial and shape of the pushers. This “Paul Newman Panda”, bearing the serial number 2’924’144, dates to 1971 and bears a “Mark 2” dial and beautifullypreserved “Mark 1” screw-down pushers. The bezel is a later acrylic insert for a reference 6263 from the mid-1970s, as the reference 6265 originally came with a metal bezel. One of two situations are possible for such a bezel to be fitted: one, that the watch was sold later than the production date, and that the acrylic insert was fitted at the time of sale at the request of the buyer (or whim of the seller), or two, during a Rolex service, in the absence of a correct replacement metal bezel, an acrylic insert was fitted instead.
A very rare and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Mark 2 “Paul Newman Panda” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1971
Reference No. 6265; inside caseback stamped 6241
Case No. 2’924’144
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Panda”
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. Valjoux 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 7835, endlinks stamped 271, max overall length approx. 220mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.71
Dimensions 37mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$250,000–500,000
€235,000–469,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex presentation box.
The current consignor purchased this 6265 “Paul Newman Panda” with this same acrylic bezel at auction in June 1998, as well as the lot that immediately preceded it. The footnote at the time noted that the watch had recently underwent a Rolex service. It has stayed in his collection since then, and now is publicly unveiled for the first time in a quarter of a century, with a beautifully preserved dial and exceptional good looks.
A tour of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva reveals a most impressive collection of timepieces, reflecting the brand’s rich heritage and historical journey. This exhibition highlights the manufacturer’s dedication to preserving its legacy, especially evident in its display of vintage chronographs ranging from early pocket watches to wristwatches.
A fan-favorite complication, the standard chronograph was first encased in a wristwatch by Patek Philippe in 1924. The watch featured an officer’s case and displayed totalizers in an unusual configuration at 12 and 6 o’clock. In fact, Patek Philippe had designed and sold a split-seconds chronograph, possibly a prototype, the year before. This watch had an independent seconds hand that could be stopped to measure an interval, then released to synchronize with the continuously running chronograph seconds hand. It also featured a monopusher design, with a single button on the case band controlling the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph.
Single-button chronographs are some of the most exceptional finds within the prestigious range of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches, which is already an elite category in the world of horology. These exceptionally rare chronographs feature the renowned and superbly finished 13’’’ ébauche from Victorin-Piguet of Le Sentier, one of the most well-known ebauche-makers of the time. Extremely rare and highly sought after, research indicates that only 27 single button chronograph wristwatches were ever produced by the firm, one of them being the present example.
An extremely rare and highly important yellow gold single button chronograph wristwatch with sector dial and tachymeter scale
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 1935
Reference No. 130
Movement No. 860’025
Case No. 613’275
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Manual, cal 13”’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 33mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$150,000–300,000
€141,000–281,000
Accessories
Accompanied by a photocopy of the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1936 and its subsequent sale on March 3rd, 1937.
Like later reference 130 models in gold, the present singlepusher chronograph from 1935 is housed within a 33mm case, which was considered to be quite large for the period. Interestingly the small subdials and the lack of chronograph pushers bring the watch balance, refinement and elegance. This particular watch stands out even more with its outstanding case condition and thick lug profiles, bestowing considerable wristpresence. Elevating the present lot’s importance and aesthetic beauty is its sector dial. All of the dial’s printing is, of course, raised hard enamel, with all graphic details first engraved by hand and subsequently filled with black enamel powder. Then it is baked in a high-temperature oven multiple times to solidify, creating the classic look of a vintage Stern dial that required the utmost know-how from skilled artisans.
The exceptional rarity and historical importance of the present watch makes it an outstanding opportunity for the discerning collector.
BREGUET An elegant and attractive white gold wristwatch with “grand feu” enamel dial and date, with certificate of origin, hang tag, and presentation box
Manufacturer Breguet
Year Circa 2013
Reference No. 5177BB299V6
Movement No. 0’010’354
Case No. 431’7BB
Model Name Classic
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 777Q, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold pin buckle
Dimensions 38mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, and movement signed.
Estimate
$6,000–9,000 Σ
€5,600–8,400
Accessories
Accompanied by Breguet Certificate of Origin and Warranty dated June 19, 2013, wooden presentation box, hang tag, product literature and outer packaging.
The reference 5177 is quintessential Breguet. The elegant 38mm diameter case is understated and fits squarely within the brand’s “Classique” collection. The watch is highlighted by the wonderful white “Grand feu” enamel dial with Arabic numerals, and complimented by the “Breguet” hands with “moon” tip ends. Breguet worked to streamline both the mechanical and the design of watches, and in 1783 he developed these uncompromising hands that today are one of the hallmarks of the brand. The hands, along with the center seconds hand, are slim and elegant, and add to the visual effect of the overall design.
The reference is offered today in pink gold, yellow gold, and white gold like the present model, and all are fitted with the automatic caliber 777Q featuring a white gold oscillating weight with guilloché finish, another hallmark of Breguet’s masterful skill. This example is in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its certificate, presentation and hang tag.
126. A. LANGE & SÖHNE A fine and attractive pink gold wristwatch with guarantee
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2010
Reference No. 233.032
Movement No. 74’932
Case No. 188’310
Model Name 1815
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. L051.1, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$10,000–20,000 Σ
€9,400–18,800
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee dated February 4th, 2010 and stamped Tourneau, leather envelope and product literature.
A Lange & Söhne’s 1815 collection was launched in 1999 as a tribute to their founder honoring his exacting standards and precision quality movements, which today resemble pocket watches made during Ferdinand’s time. They feature threequarter plates, blued screws, hand-engraved balance cocks, and gold chatons. Lange worked diligently to consistently reproduce movements in a move toward standardization and better timekeeping, as well as advance mechanical standards. The 1815 collection is known for precision timepieces offered in a wide variety of models including a Grande Complication masterpiece, annual calendars and chronographs, perpetual calendars with split-seconds, and time only wristwatches like the present lot. Each model is a tribute to the horological traditions Ferdinand Adolph Lange sought to achieve with one common design attribute found on each model: the railwaytrack minute scale.
The present reference 233.032 embodies the 1815 heritage with a 40mm diameter pink gold case housing the manual wound L051.1 caliber with 55 hour power reserve, beautifully displayed through the sapphire crystal back. The silvered dial is highlighted by Arabic numerals, blued-steel hands and outer railway-track minute scale. The watch is in excellent overall condition and accompanied by the A. Lange & Söhne warranty dated 2010.
127. AUDEMARS PIGUET A rare and oversized limited edition pink gold, titanium and ceramic chronograph wristwatch with date and presentation box, number 139 of 1500 pieces made in collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year Circa 2011
Reference No. 26378IO
Case No. H15036
Model Name Royal Oak Offshore Arnold Schwarzenegger
The Legacy Chronograph
Material 18K pink gold, Titanium and ceramic
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2326/2840, 50 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Audemars Piguet textile strap
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Audemars Piguet pin buckle
Dimensions 48mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. In 1992 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak model, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Offshore line. The brand sought to update the iconic Royal Oak with a sporty, more masculine aesthetic. The new Offshore featured a chronograph and calendar mechanism, along with a prominent rubber gasket sandwiched between the bezel and case, and therban—a type of rubber—coated chronograph pushers and screw down crown.
The famed actor Arnold Schwarzenegger has long been associated Audemars Piguet since he wore a Royal Oak Offshore black and yellow prototype model in the 1999 thriller “End of Days”, which was sold by Phillips Watches in New York in June 2022. The brand launched a limited edition model of 500 “End of Days” timepieces in 1999 in honour of this collaboration. In 2011, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Offshore “The Legacy” in an oversized 48mm diameter case made from black ceramic and titanium with pink gold accents. The dial featured the trademark ‘Méga Tapisserie’ pattern and was set with pink gold numerals and hands. The case back was engraved “Arnold Schwarzenegger The Legacy”, and the model was originally sold to raise funds for Schwarzenegger’s charitable foundation “After School All-Stars”.
The present model is number 139 of 1500 examples and offered in excellent overall condition.
AUDEMARS PIGUET An early, fine, and highly attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with date, warranty, and presentation box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet Year Circa 2017
Reference No. 26331OR.00.D315CR.01
Movement No. 991’131
Case No. J43828
Model Name Royal Oak Chronograph
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 2385, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18k pink gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000 Σ
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty dated February 27,2017, wooden presentation box, product literature and outer packaging.
The first Royal Oak Chronograph, the reference 25860, introduced in 1997 and housed the caliber 2385 based on the ultra-slim, Frederic Piguet caliber 1185. The new movement was the thinnest self-winding chronograph movement made at the time, permitting the classic thin profile of the original Royal Oak to be maintained.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph was a commercial success, and to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model, the firm released the successor reference 26331. Introduced at SIHH 2017, the watch has all the appeal of the original, with the case enlarged slightly from a diameter of 39mm to 41mm. Fitted with a charismatic blue Grande Tapisserie dial with yellow gold luminous markers, it is both an impressive and masculine chronograph wristwatch.
The present example with crocodile strap is well preserved and accompanied by its original warranty dated February 2017 and presentation box.
A fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, power reserve, moon phase and bracelet, with Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe
Year Circa 2013
Reference No. 5712/1A
Movement No. 5’734’890
Case No. 4’628’455
Model Name Nautilus
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated September 10th, 2013, fitted presentation box, two additional bracelet links, two setting pins, leather envelope, Patek Philippe service invoice dated November 13, 2023, photocopy of the original invoice, product literature and outer packaging.
First launched in 1976, the Nautilus is one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic watch references ever produced. Inspired by the proportions of maritime portholes, the original reference 3700 merged Patek Philippe’s elegant design philosophy with durability to create the ultimate luxury sports watch to withstand the elements. Today, the model has become a true collector’s timepiece and ultimately changed the way we perceive sports watches.
Displaying the date, power reserve, and moon phase complications, the reference 5712 was the successor of reference 3712, which was the first complicated Nautilus model. The new version featured a larger case at 42.5mm in diameter, and the dial had narrower grooves. Introduced on the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus in 2006, the reference 5712 was a resounding success, remaining part of the catalog to the present day. Its classic appeal, combined with a hefty presence, makes it one of the most desirable modern sports watches available on the market today. In fact, it is incredibly difficult to obtain one at a Patek Philippe retailer and requires years of waiting to be allocated one.
The present watch is offered for the first time at auction by the original owner, originally purchased in 2013. The watch was recently serviced by the Henri Stern Agency in November 2023, and was unsealed in February 2024 for photography.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A brand new, strikingly attractive, and technically impressive stainless steel skeletonized wristwatch with bracelet, double balance wheel, warranty, and presentation box
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet
Year 2022
Reference No. 15407ST.00.1220ST.01
Movement No. BE 1780
Case No. RA8015M
Model Name Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openwork
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3132, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, numbered 1220, max overall length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Audemars Piguet double deployant clasp
Dimensions 41mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$60,000–120,000
€56,300–113,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty card, fitted presentation box, hang tag, product literature and outer packaging.
While Audemars Piguet has produced some of the finest skeletonized watches over the decades, a skeletonized Royal Oak always impresses. While it is well known that the balance wheel of a timepiece is its beating heart controlling accuracy, a common horological issue occurs when a watch with a single balance and hairspring is tilted vertically, with gravity pulling the hairspring off-center, hence affecting its accuracy. Taking a leap ahead, this issue was resolved with the ref. 15407, featuring two superimposed balance wheels, each equipped with its own hairspring.
While its technical attributes are certainly impressive, the look and feel of the timepiece does not lack excitement. Fitted inside a contemporary 41mm diameter stainless steel Royal Oak case, the skeletonized caliber 3132 is decorated to please with all bridges ruthenium-coated giving the entire movement a gunmetal sheen, with the exception of its golden balance bridge. While the majority of the movement is diamond-cut to perfection, the solid pink gold balance bridge is hand-finished with traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques.
The present reference 15407ST is one not to miss. It is offered in brand new overall condition with no signs of use or wear, and complete with its full set of accessories.
A sporty and highly attractive white gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 2019
Reference No. 116509
Case No. 8Q’207’677
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$18,000–36,000
€16,800–33,700
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex warranty card dated February 8, 2019 and stamped Bucherer AG, Switzerland, fitted presentation box, leather envelope, Rolex hang tag, product literature and outer packaging.
The Cosmograph Daytona is one of the most iconic timepieces with a long history reaching back over 60 years to the first reference 6239, and is now one of the most sought after models today.
In 2000, Rolex introduced the ground-breaking Cosmograph Daytona reference 116520, featuring the firm’s first ever inhouse, self-winding chronograph, the caliber 4130, replacing its former Zenith El Primero-based caliber 4030. Entering into the new millennium with a bang, Rolex also introduced gold variants of the Cosmograph Daytona, and for the first time models featuring various dial types, including hardstones.
The reference 116509 was introduced in 2004 and remained in production until replaced by the current reference 126509. The chronograph features a white gold case and bracelet with engraved white gold bezel with tachymeter. The present model features an attractive grey dial giving the timepiece a sporty masculine appeal. In addition to the grey dial, Rolex offered the chronograph with a blue dial, black dial with red highlights and the sought after meteorite dial.
The present watch is offered in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its 2019 warranty confirming the watch was sold by the famed Bucherer retailer, along with presentation box and hang tags.
An attractive and rare yellow gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds, candy pink lacquer “Stella” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex Year 1978
Reference No. 18038
Movement No. 0’031’328
Case No. 5’420’926
Model Name Day-Date
Material 18K yellow gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, end links stamped 55, maximum overall length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex concealed folding deployant clasp stamped Rolex
Dimensions 36mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000
€23,500–46,900
The Rolex “Stella” Day-Date is one that is admired by many due to its playfully diverse offering of vibrant dial colors and its unique glossy luster. These vivacious, glossy lacquered dial-fitted Day-Date’s are amongst the most sought after and collectable vintage Rolex timepieces today. From a lustrous turquoise blue to a bright pastel pink, “Stella” Day-Dates were the first time in the history of the firm that such whimsical, spirited array of dial colors were used in a Rolex wristwatch.
Introduced in the exciting period of the 1970s and produced for roughly a decade, these colorful lacquered dials were manufactured by a company called Stella, based in Châtelaine and Geneva. The firm supplied Rolex’s dial makers of the period with special types of lacquer that resulted in the name it proudly deserves. The present ref. 18038 features a rare and desireable color, the “candy” pink. Contrasting beautifully against a yellow gold case, the combination is considered one of the more sought after configurations of Stella Day-Date.
Preserved in stunning condition, the present lot remains most probably unpolished and is fitted with a flawless lacquer dial. In a time where colorful Rolex watches are highly coveted, this watch is certainly a head-turner for the connoisseur.
Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Candy Pink Stella”
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa 2005
Reference No. 116599RBR
Movement No. C3’266’332
Case No. Z’397’646
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee card, medallion tag, hang tag, and Rolex inner and outer presentation boxes.
Over the years, Rolex has introduced numerous iterations of the Daytona, each with its own unique features and characteristics. From different dial configurations to various materials and bezel designs, the Daytona lineup offers something for every taste and preference.
While Rolex is renowned for its tool watches, it’s often overlooked that the brand also excels in crafting gem-set timepieces. The gem-set Rolex Daytona, exemplified by models like the present Daytona reference 116599RBR, showcases Rolex’s expertise in combining quality gems with precision utility. The current lot features meticulously selected round, brilliantcut diamonds adorning the bezel, dial and end-links, elevating the Daytona to a new level of sophistication and glamour. While gem-setting can be subjective to individual tastes, the use of top quality, internally flawless, matched diamonds, as showcased here, is objectively stunning.
Preserved in oustanding condition with its full set of accessories including the Rolex guarantee card, hang tags, and presentation boxes, the present example is a wonderful opportunity to purchase a dazzling variant of the iconic Daytona.
An extremely rare and highly attractive calendar wristwatch with onyx dial and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1997
Reference No. 18206, further stamped 18200 inside the case
Movement No. 7’756’198
Case No. U701’297
Model Name Day-Date
Material Platinum, onyx
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Platinum Rolex President bracelet, links stamped 55B, max overall length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Rolex concealed deployant clasp, stamped 8385
Dimensions 36.5mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$60,000–120,000
€56,300–113,000
Accessories
Accompanied by a green leather Rolex presentation box, numbered hang tag, Rolex hang tag, bezel protector, leather envelope, suede pouch, service pamphlet, leather folio with Rolex pad, two polish clothes and outer packaging.
The Day-Date was the first model to include the full name of the day at 12 o’clock and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. The semicircular link bracelet, officially named “President,” is as iconic as the watch itself. The original references 6510 and 6511 were replaced by the famed reference 1803 in 1959 with a sporty 36mm diameter case, fluted bezel, and gold President bracelet, and offered in yellow, white, and rose gold, and platinum. In 1977, Rolex introduced a new generation model with the caliber 3055 with quickset date, which was upgraded again in 1988 with the caliber 3155, allowing quick set for both the date and day.
The present reference 18206 from 1997 features an incredibly rare and charismatic hard-stone onyx dial with silver print, providing for an elegant and contemporary appeal. The midnight black onyx dial contrasts with the platinum case providing a powerful aesthetic, which is enhanced by minimal graphics.
The Day-Date is one of the most sought after wristwatches available today. Fitted with an onyx dial, is a timepiece with panache and subtle charm.
Manufacturer Rolex Year 2018
Reference No. 116695SATS
Case No. 382C21Z8
Model Name Yacht-Master 40, “Haribo”
Material 18K pink gold, diamond, tsavorite and multi-colored sapphire
Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped “5HZ”
Dimensions 40mm diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card stamped by Italian retailer dated January 2018, product literature, green document holder, large fitted presentation box, outer packaging and sleeve.
Rolex’s gem-setting tradition harkens back to the mid-20th century. Fast-forward to 2017, Rolex made a splash again at Baselworld by releasing the Yacht-Master reference 116695SATS which features a beautifully executed gem-set bezel. By all means an attention-grabber, the watch has a bidirectional rotating bezel set with 38 sapphires (blue, orange, yellow, and pink), 8 tsavorites (the green gems), and 1 diamond at 12 o’clock. The uniformity of the gems in respective hue and shape is fantastic to behold, and even the most discerning aficionados would be satisfied if they were to find one of these watches on their wrist. Adding a level of playfulness and confidence, the stones are absolutely perfect.
The watch is dubbed as “Haribo”, while collectors in Asia affectionately call it “Candy” as the colorful gemstones resemble the tonalities of candies. Today, models like the reference 116695SATS are fiercely sought after by collectors, and it can take years for buyers to be on the waiting list. Offered in brand new condition and complimented by its original guarantee and box, this lot offers a now-or-never opportunity for collectors to literally skip the line, and buy one of the hottest timepiece in the market.
A very rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, diamond-set bezel and dial, and emerald-set hour markers
Manufacturer Rolex Year 1994
Reference No. 16568, inside caseback stamped 16500
Movement No. 111’105
Case No. W’176’600
Model Name Cosmograph Daytona
Material 18K yellow gold, diamonds, and emeralds Calibre Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 103, max. length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex twinlock deployant clasp, stamped 78398
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial and movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$70,000–140,000
€65,700–131,000
Originally conceived as a utilitarian timepiece, the Cosmograph Daytona typically boasted a stainless steel case. Nevertheless, Rolex’s innovative spirit led to the introduction of gem-set models as early as the 1980s. These groundbreaking models, such as references 6269 and 6270, were manufactured in exceedingly limited quantities, and are now regarded as the crown jewels of vintage Rolex collecting.
In the 1990s, Rolex intensified its endeavors for ultra-exclusive Daytonas by introducing gem-set iterations of their inaugural self-winding Daytona, featuring the renowned Zenith El-Primero based caliber 4030. A truly dazzling variant both literally and metaphorically, the present reference 16568 with baguette diamond-set bezel is certainly one of the rarest and most eye-catching.
Consdiered the direct successor to the elusive reference 6270, the reference 16568’s bezel features fixed, heavy gold bars in line with the dial’s emerald-set hour markers, acting as an hour chapter. While some examples of this reference were fitted with pavé diamond-set silver dials, the present example’s champagne dial with matching sub-dials perfectly complements the sharp yellow gold case. Preserved in outstanding overall condition, the case is in our opinion unpolished, with only minimal signs of careful wear and handling.
In a time when modern gem-set Daytonas are being offered as special, out-of-catalogue pieces to top clients, it is now evident how small the production run of the reference 16568 was, further enhancing its desirability amongst collectors.
Ref. 16568 Cosmograph Daytona “Emerald Dial”
A rare and attractive limited edition pink gold wristwatch with day and week of year indication, guarantee, hang tag and presentation box, number 16 of 50 pieces made for the 150th anniversary of Andreas Huber
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2008
Reference No. 245.032
Movement No. 64’142
Case No. No. 16/50, 174’148, 150 Jahre A. Huber
Model Name 1815 Kalenderwoche
Material 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. L045.1
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$18,000–25,000
€16,900–23,500
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee dated July 27, 2008, fitted presentation box, Andreas Huber hang tag, leather envelope, polish cloth, product literature and outer packaging.
Since their reincarnation in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has created exquisite mechanical timepieces sought after for their classic contemporary design based on traditional horology, and being at the forefront of ingenuity. The Lange 1815 is a tribute to the firm’s founder who sought innovative means to manufacture precision measuring instruments, and as part of the brand’s original collection of four wristwatches, the Lange 1815 was first offered in 1994. Since then, various models have been produced including models with chronograph, tourbillon, annual calendar, and rattrapante perpetual calendar.
The present Lange 1815 Kalenderwoche was released in 2006 in celebration of the 150th anniversary of the retailer Andreas Huber. The caliber L045.1 was made specifically for this timepiece and features an interesting perspective displaying both the day of the week, and the week number of the year, which is seen through a central needle hand and outer 53 week track. The 38.5mm diameter case has wonderful proportions complimented by the dial with Arabic numerals and railway track, while the movement seen through the sapphire crystal back is engraved “Andreas Huber München 1856-2006”.
Offered in excellent condition, the present watch is accompanied by the guarantee dated July 17, 2008 and presentation box. Number 16 of only 50 examples made, this is a rare opportunity for all collectors.
Ref. 245.032 Kalendarwoche 1815
A very rare and attractive platinum wristwatch with white dial, date, power reserve, guarantee and presentation box, limited edition of 25 pieces made to commemorate the 25th anniversary of Cellini
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year 2002
Reference No. 101.049
Movement No. 37’018
Case No. 148’318
Model Name Lange 1 Cellini
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. L.901.0, 53 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle
Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and buckle signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne International Guarantee dated April 29, 2004, A. Lange & Söhne Cellini fitted presentation box, leather envelope, product literature, polish cloth and outer packaging.
A Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 is a superb modern classic of 20th century horology. First released in 1994, the watch displays a classic contemporary look, which a quarter of a century later, has a sophisticated appeal for its design and technical innovation. The dial is clear and legible with the now famous patented oversized date apertures inspired by the Five-Minute Clock of the Semper Opera House in Dresden. The eccentric hours indication further set the brand apart from all others with their incredible vision.
The present Lange 1 Cellini model was produced in a limited edition of 25 timepieces celebrating the 25th anniversary of the famed Cellini Jewelers. Established in 1977 by Leon Adams, originally at the iconic Waldorf Astoria Hotel, Cellini is known for their rare gems and haute horologerie. At a time when quartz movements were taking hold, Adams realized the importance of traditional horology and masterful craftsmanship of mechanical movements. Early on, Cellini offered clients Audemars Piguet and Omega wristwatches and later was one of the first to sell A. Lange & Söhne, F. P. Journe, DeBethune and Frank Muller.
Featuring a luminous dial and hands, this timepiece is in excellent overall condition and complete with guarantee dated April 29, 2004 and Cellini presentation box.
Ref. 101.049 Lange 1 Cellini Edition
139. An avant-garde and exceptionally interesting stainless steel limited edition wristwatch with meteorite dial, card, and presentation box, number 10 of 10 examples
Manufacturer Romain Gauthier
Year Circa 2019
Reference No. MON00027
Movement No. No. 10/10
Model Name Prestige HMS Stainless Steel
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Manual, cal. 2206 HMS, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Romain Gauthier pin buckle
Dimensions 43mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$15,000–30,000 Σ
€14,100–28,200
Accessories
Accompanied by a Romain Gauthier presentation box, polish cloth, photo identity card and original Romain Gauthier strap.
Romain Gauthier began his professional life as a micromechanical engineer, but he could not deny that watchmaking was in his blood, as both of his parents had worked for manufactures such as Audemars Piguet, Lemania, and Dubois Dépraz. He launched his watch brand in 2005 with the Prestige HM, which was well-received by collectors, largely due to the exquisite movement finishing incorporating brushed and grained finishes with sharply hand-beveled edges.
After the establishment of his company, Gauthier presented his first movement, cal. 2206HMS, which would be incorporated into the brand’s very first wristwatch, Prestige HM from the Heritage collection, featuring Gauthier’s signature “back-winding” crown. In 2010, the firm released the Prestige HMS (hours, minutes, seconds), an upgraded version featuring subsidiary seconds.
In 2019, Gauthier released an exclusive limited edition of ten pieces in stainless steel fitted with a striking meteorite dial, having never before cased any watches in series in stainless steel. The choice of meteorite was a particularly poignant one, as Gauthier’s father was a rock and mineral collector, and this passion was a visceral part of his childhood. The meteorite was sourced from the Henbury meteorite discovered in 1931 in Australia, noted for its particularly bold Widmanstätten pattern.
The present example is the same watch used in press photographs and the brand’s official press release from 2019. Each piece of meteorite refracts and shimmers in its own unique way. Incorporating the beautiful movement finishing Romain Gauthier is celebrated for, with hand-chamfered and handpolished bridges and countersinks, hand-frosted mainplate, and straight-grained bridges treated with black NAC.
A very fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with salmon dial, guarantee card, and presentation box
Manufacturer Grönefeld
Year 2020
Movement No. No. 36
Case No. 60’365
Model Name 1941 Principia
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 1941 Principia, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Grönefeld pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by Grönefeld guarantee card dated October 12th, 2020, hang tag, two additional Grönefeld straps, letter, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
While known for complications like tourbillons, dead-beat and remontoire movements, Grönefeld’s 1941 Principia was released in 2018 as their first time-only wristwatch. Extremely well-made like their more complicated timepieces, the brand gave buyers the opportunity to choose the colour of the solid sterling silver dial with options in light blue, turquoise, salmon like the present watch, and cream lacquer. The automatic caliber with the same name as the model features exceptional hand finishing, with an extensively hand-decorated 22 karat sold gold full-sized winding rotor. Rotating on ceramic ball bearings, the rotor’s design prevents wear and eliminates the need for lubrication. The 1941 Principia was offered in pink and white gold, as well as stainless steel, and offered with a variety of strap options for the buyer.
With an intriguing name, the 1941 Principia was named for the birth year of the founders’ father, and Sir Isaac Newton’s “Philosophiæ Naturalis Principia Mathematica”, which is appropriate given their desire for excellence in precision timing. The watch is complete with all of its accessories and is an excellent opportunity for fans of independent watchmaking to acquire a Principia no longer in production.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A rare and unusual pink gold and titanium limited edition wristwatch with bi-directional jumping hours, warranty, and presentation box
Manufacturer MB&F
Year 2014
Reference No. 55.RL.B
Movement No. 412’234
Case No. 55R344
Model Name Horological Machine No. 5
Material 18K pink gold, titanium, zirconium
Calibre Automatic, developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle Titanium MB&F pin buckle
Dimensions 49mm width x 51.5mm length
Signed Case, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$20,000–40,000
€18,800–37,600
Accessories
Accompanied by MB&F international warranty booklet dated March 3, 2014, instruction manual, leather wallet, pod-form fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
Founded by Maximilian Büsser, a maverick figure in the watchmaking industry, MB&F embraces a collaborative approach, bringing together some of the most talented independent watchmakers and artisans to create extraordinary timepieces that defy conventional norms. Established in 2005, MB&F has consistently pushed the boundaries of traditional watch design, crafting timepieces that transcend the notion of mere instruments and evolve into kinetic sculptures and wearable works of art. Each MB&F creation is an avant-garde masterpiece, reflecting Büsser’s passion for innovation, storytelling, and a deep appreciation for the unconventional.
One certainly unconventional watch within the MB&F line is the HM5, short for Horological Machine No. 5. Inspired by the inaugural supercars from the 1970s, including models like the Lamborghini Miura, Lotus Esprit, and Lancia Stratos, all of which commonly featured louvres on their rear windows, the HM5 infuses a sense of dynamism into its original design.
With a case that is made in red gold, titanium, and zirconium, the HM5 combines classical hues with futuristic craft. Set in the centre of the machine is a three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode, shining light on the collaborative spirit of MB&F. The present example is offered in excellent condition and is complete with its full set of accessories..
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
An early, highly unusual, and innovative titanium aluminum nitride-coated stainless steel wristwatch with three-dimensional satellite hour display, power reserve, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer Urwerk
Year Circa 2007
Reference No. UR 103.08
Case No. No. 04
Model Name UR 103.08 TiAlN
Material TiAlN (titanium aluminium nitride)-coated stainless steel and titanium
Calibre Manual, cal. 3.03, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Urwerk black material strap
Clasp/Buckle TiAlN-coated stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions 50mm length x 36mm width
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$25,000–50,000
€23,500–46,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Urwerk Certificate and International Guarantee, instruction manual, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
In production from 2003 until 2010, the UR-103 is one of the most recognizable iterations for the ingenious Urwerk brand, brainchild of watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei. With its curved, avant-garde form and intricate, unusual time display, the UR-103 was a success with collectors upon its release, and was adapted with many different materials and treatments over its production run.
The UR-103.08 dating to 2007 is crafted in a highly interesting and novel material: stainless steel coated in titanium aluminum nitride. This unique alloy gives the watch a purplish-bronze metallic hue and an increased hardness—to protect against scratches—similar to that of sapphire. An estimated 50 examples were made, of which this is numbered 04, and it is one of the very few to bear the intensely difficult to engineer angular crystal. Due to the difficulties encountered in manufacturing the angular crystal, only 20 of the 50 examples are fitted with this specific crystal. Despite its unconventional shape, it is quite ergonomic and easy to wear, as well as striking and adventurous.
Time is indicated via four three-dimensional orbiting and revolving hour-display satellites. A first for the industry, the reverse of the watch features a dashboard featuring a power reserve display, indication of minutes and running seconds for exact time setting, as well as a small screw enabling the wearer to fine tune the hairspring for greater precision.
Accompanied by its original complement of accessories and rarely seen TiAlN-coated stainless steel pin buckle, it is preserved in excellent condition.
A very early, rare, and attractive platinum flyback chronograph wristwatch with oversized date, tachymeter scale, guarantee, and presentation box
Manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne
Year Circa 2000
Reference No. 403.035
Movement No. 17’299
Case No. 127’244
Model Name Datograph
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. L951.1, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle A. Lange & Söhne deployant clasp
Dimensions 39mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000 Σ
€28,200–56,300
Accessories
Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne warranty/guarantee certificate, “When Time Came Home” booklet, instruction manual, presentation box, and watch winding hang tag.
First launched in 1999, A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph is lauded by collectors as one of the finest modern chronographs ever made. Featuring the groundbreaking caliber L951.1, this movement marked a departure from the prevailing trend, challenging high-end manufacturers like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet, which at the time typically relied on external suppliers for their movements.
The Datograph name itself reflects its dual functions: Date and Chronograph. This example, with its platinum case and black dial, represents the inaugural design in production from 1999 to 2011. It is considered by many as the quintessential Datograph. Boasting a meticulously crafted dial, the Datograph is able to achieve a harmonious balance between its elements. The slightly recessed, cream-toned subdials contrast with the stark black dial, creating a captivating depth, accentuated by changing angles of light. The A. Lange & Söhne signature discreetly graces the 12 o’clock position, while luminescent broad hands enhance legibility and contribute to the watch’s modern aesthetics.
Taking a look at both the case and movement numbers, the present example is one of the earliest platinum examples to have come to the public market. Complete with its full set of accessories and preserved in outstanding overall condition, this is a superb example for the most discerning collectors who value the brand history of A. Lange & Söhne.
A brand new, mid-size white gold dual-time pilot’s wristwatch with date, day and night indication, sweep seconds, Certificate of Origin and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2022
Reference No. 7234G-001
Movement No. 7’462’147
Case No. 6’508’559
Model Name Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S C FUS, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions 37.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000
€28,200–56,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, product literature, leather folio, Patek Philippe presentation box and Tiffany box.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time stands as a significant tribute to pilot watches, merging the brand’s iconic elegance with the utilitarian charm of aviation timepieces.
Launched in 2020 in a smaller, luxuriuous white gold 37.5mm case, the ref. 7234G caters to contemporary tastes that increasingly appreciate the elegance and wearability of more restrained dimensions. Boasting a distinctive aesthetic with its blue lacquered dial, luminous Arabic numerals, and a vintageinspired “box-type” sapphire crystal, its functionality is further enhanced with a dual time zone feature, catering to the needs of globetrotters.
Presented in brand new, unworn condition and carrying the elusive “Tiffany & Co.” signature at 6 o’clock, the present watch is not only fresh-to-market but also the first of its kind to appear at public auction. Consigned from the original owner, the watch is offered complete with all accompanying accessories.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A rare and attractive limited edition white gold world-time wristwatch with “New York” dial, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 2017
Reference No. 5230G-010
Movement No. 7’102’622
Case No. 6’196’376
Model Name World Time “New York Edition”
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 240 HU, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 38.5mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$30,000–60,000
€28,200–56,300
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, product literature, leather wallet, wooden presentation box, and outer packaging.
World time watches were invented, as is the case with most innovations, out of necessity. With the advent of the industrial age came global trade and world travel and, as a direct result, there was a need for timekeeping devices capable of tracking time in multiple time zones. The world-time complication, other than being a utilitarian invention, is also a fascinating window into history when studying its evolution. With the rise and fall of nations, one featured capital on a watch’s bezel or dial replaced another as the reference city for a specific time zone.
Patek Philippe’s reference 5230G, New York Edition, was a celebration of both the brand’s long, prestigious history, and their landmark, 2017 exhibition held in New York City, titled “Patek Philippe -The Art of Watches Grand Exhibition.”
A comprehensive 10-day event featuring over 450 curated timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum, it was the largest watch-related exhibition ever held in the United States. Accordingly, Patek Philippe issued nine limited edition timepieces, including the present reference 5320G—a stunning world-time wristwatch featuring a metallic, Art Deco relief of the Manhattan skyline on the dial.
The present watch is complete and preserved in outstanding condition. Produced in just 300 examples, this ref. 5230G presents a rare opportunity to own this modern synthesis of Patek Philippe’s historical past and technical mastery.
A like-new stainless steel annual calendar chronograph wristwatch with day/night indication, olive green dial, bracelet, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2022
Reference No. 5905/1A-001
Movement No. 7’468’476
Case No. 6’506’967
Material Stainless steel
Calibre Automatic, cal. 28-520 QA 24H, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, reference B614AAA, max overall length 220mm
Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000
€37,600–75,100
Accessories
Accompanied by photocopy of Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, original invoice, product literature, leather folio, stainless steel setting pin, slipcloth, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
The first stainless steel example of the Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph reference 5905 introduced by Patek Philippe, the 5905/1A-001 officially joined the brand’s catalog in fall 2021, fitted with a lovely and elegant olive green dial.
The 5905 series was originally born in 2015 as a next-generation evolution of Patek’s popular ref. 5960, with slight updates in the shape of a larger case (40.5mm to 42mm) and a more streamlined dial layout. The movement and overall functionality of the two references remains the same. The 5905 and 5960 overlapped in production for a few short years in the late 2010s, but the elder 5960 has now been completely usurped in favor of the 5905.
The olive-green dial of the steel 5905 is stunning and best appreciated in person. Interestingly, the specific green shade of the dial is remarkably similar—if not identical—to the cult-favorite Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014, a highly sought-after model with an olive-green dial that represented the conclusion of the 5711 series as a whole and was released a few months prior to the steel 5905’s debut.
The present example is in close-to-new condition and is offered with a photocopy of its Certificate of Origin, presentation box, and other accessories.
Ref. 5905A Annual Calendar Chronograph
A fine and attractive white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year and day/night indications, moon phase, Certificate of Origin, additional solid case back, hang tag, setting pin, and presentation box
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year Circa 2011
Reference No. 5320G-001
Movement No. 7’400’424
Case No. 6’467’073
Material 18K white gold
Calibre Automatic, cal. 324 S Q, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$40,000–80,000 Σ
€37,600–75,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract Certificate of Origin dated August 31, 2021, fitted wooden presentation box, additional hard case back, setting pin, hang tag, leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe is renowned for their legendary line of perpetual calendar wristwatches with moon phase, which today are some of the most sought after timepieces in the market. From the first serialized reference 1526 released in 1941, to the first iconic self-winding reference 3448 in production from 1962 to 1981, to the famed classic 3940, these watches hold the DNA for the reference 5320G, released at Baselworld in 2017.
The reference 5320G combines inspiration from the brand’s historic past with a modern aesthetic. At first glance, one notices the unusual ivory hued lacquered dial with a vintage appeal, and its symmetrical dial layout, featuring classic day and month apertures above the signature with the subsidiary dial positioned at 6 o’clock displaying the date and moon phase. The three-tiered, stepped lug case takes inspiration from the 1940s chronometer reference 2405 adding an Art Deco aura to this modern timepiece.
The present example is one of eight known to the market, and offered for the first time at auction. The watch is in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its Certificate of Origin dated 2021, presentation box, setting pin, and hang tag. The reference 5320G is a contemporary yet classic perpetual calendar paying homage to Patek Philippe’s great models of the mid-20th century.
Ref. 5320G-001 Perpetual Calendar
An attractive and technically impressive platinum chronometer wristwatch with remontoir, deadbeat seconds, power reserve indicator, guarantee, and presentation box, sold to benefit charity
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2014
Case No. 072-CO
Model Name Chronomètre Optimum
Material Platinum
Calibre Manual, cal. 1510, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum and 18K white gold F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and clasp signed.
Estimate
$50,000–100,000
€46,900–93,900
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe certificate of authenticity card, original purchase invoice dated January 11th 2014, polishing cloth, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
The Chronomètre Optimum was first conceived as an idea in 2001, however the first example was not released until 2012. A showcase of watchmaking proficiency, it adopts concepts from other Journe models: the double barrel layout of the Chronomètre Souverain, and the remontoir d’égalité system of his tourbillon wristwatch. The Optimum is to be considered Journe’s “ultimate” technical essay on precision, reuniting the most efficient chronometer solutions from previous models, and then adding to them a new escapement of Journe’s design.
The solid 18K pink gold movement features indeed Journe’s patented ‘BHP’—Bi-axial Hi Performance—escapement. Inspired by works of Abraham-Louis Breguet, this natural escapement employs two escapement wheels (thus, Bi-axial) rather than the usual single one. This solution, coupled with special design geometries, allows for the escapement to function without lubrication and ensures more reliability overall and reduced wear and tear. The remontoir d’égalité system, escape wheels, and pallet fork are made from lightweight titanium further enabling greater timekeeping precision. An additional dead-beat seconds indicator, connected to the remontoir, is displayed on the backside of the movement.
Consigned by the original owner and preserved in like new condition with all original accessories, the present Chronomètre Optimum in platinum with white gold dial measures 40mm and dates to 2014. All proceeds from the hammer price result will be donated by the consignor to UNICEF.
PROPERTY OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A very fine and limited edition white ceramic with carbon TPT skeletonized flyback chronograph wristwatch, with date, month and presentation box, numbered 58 of 150
Richard Mille prides his watches as “racing machines for the wrist” due to his commitment to creating high-performance watches inspired by the world of motorsports. One of the most celebrated events in the world of motorsport is Le Mans, a prestigious, annual endurance race that also serves as a platform for Richard Mille to showcase its watches’ resilience and accuracy under extreme conditions. As an official partner, Richard Mille’s involvement in Le Mans extends beyond sponsorship; it aligns with the race’s ethos of pushing boundaries and achieving excellence, reflecting the brand’s own philosophies in watchmaking.
Considered as one of the flagship models of the entire Richard Mille lineup, the RM 11-03 exemplifies such commitment to innovation and performance. This timepiece features a striking design, incorporating a tonneau-shaped case crafted from NTPT carbon and other cutting-edge materials. Equipped with a flyback chronograph and annual calendar complication with oversized date, the RM 11-03 offers precision timing alongside durability and ergonomic comfort.
A very fine and limited edition white ceramic with carbon TPT skeletonized flyback chronograph wristwatch, with date, month and presentation box, numbered 58 of 150
Manufacturer Richard Mille
Year 2020
Reference No. RM 11-03
Movement No. 209’355
Case No. ATZ/2917 058/150
Model Name Watch Automatic Flyback Chronograph “Le Mans”
Material Carbon TPT and white ceramic
Calibre Automatic, cal. RMA03, 68 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Rubber
Clasp/Buckle Titanium Richard Mille deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm width x 50mm length
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$150,000–300,000
€141,000–282,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Richard Mille Guarantee dated September 2020, Activation Warranty Card, Instruction booklet, and Richard Mille folio.
The present RM11-03 is a rare variant of the reference, being one of a limited edition of 150 pieces made specially for Le Mans. Cased in both carbon TPT and white ceramic, it has the remarkable lightness that make Richard Mille watches so coveted, making it perfect for daily wear. Presented in like-new condition complete with all its original accessories, this watch will surely attract collectors with a passion for motorsport and technological innovation.
An extraordinarily attractive, inventive, and historically important limited edition silver and pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with small seconds, hinged caseback, certificate, and presentation box, numbered 26 of a limited edition of 99 pieces, sold to benefit charity
To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the completion of his first tourbillon pocketwatch, François-Paul Journe decided to produce 99 examples of a wristwatch wholly inspired by his first great feat. Subsequently named the Tourbillon Anniversaire Historique, the present example is numbered 26 of 99 and comes directly from the collection of the original owner. The layout of the dial replicates that of the original pocket watch almost exactly, only shrunk to fit a 40mm case. To recreate the pocket watch dial, Journe employed the technique of engraving the dial and then filling the engravings with lacquer, a process usually associated with the finest vintage watches. The unorthodox combination of 18K rose gold and silver—with the former used for case elements that would see more wear, such as the bezel, caseback band, and crown, and the latter used for most of the case, including the lugs and the outer caseback. A brilliant, radiating guilloché pattern encircles the number of the watch on the outside of the hinged, hunter caseback.
An extraordinarily attractive, inventive, and historically important limited edition silver and pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with small seconds, hinged caseback, certificate, and presentation box, numbered 26 of a limited edition of 99 pieces, sold to benefit charity
Manufacturer F.P. Journe
Year 2014
Case No. 26/99-T30
Model Name Tourbillon Anniversaire Historique “T30”
Material Silver and 18K pink gold
Calibre Manual, cal. 1412, 19 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18K pink gold and silver F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions 40mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Estimate
$150,000–300,000
€141,000–282,000
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe certificate of guarantee dated April 1st 2014, original purchase invoice dated March 29th 2014, and travel cardboard box.
An unusual metal for use in a wristwatch, silver is rarely used in the present day as it tarnishes easily. Journe chose to use silver despite its disadvantages as a nod to the silver used in his original pocket watch. The case was not plated in any way to protect against the elements, and so each example of the T30 has developed its own unique patina. The elegant tourbillon movement, rendered in gilt brass, is more highly finished than typical Journe watches, with hand finishing used on elements of the tourbillon cage, and oversized blued steel slotted screws. The architecture of the movement is one of complete symmetry, and magnificent to behold.
The entire watch evokes a bygone era of watchmaking, of the most historically significant timepieces created by Breguet. To this day, the T30 is one of two tourbillon models ever produced by Journe where the movement is hidden from the back of the watch. A retrospective by the watchmaker, a tribute to passion, and a toast to humble beginnings, the present T30 is one of the most important timepieces that a Journe collector can own.
All proceeds from the hammer price result will be donated by the consignor to UNICEF.
PROPERTY FROM THE ORIGINAL OWNER
A virtually unworn, exceedingly rare, and highly important platinum minute repeating single-button chronograph wristwatch with instantaneous perpetual calendar, moon phase, Certificate of Origin, and boxes
If Cartier is considered “King of Shapes” and Rolex the “King of Tool Watches,” then Patek Philippe is unmistakably the “King of Complications.” By looking closely at the history of Patek Philippe as a brand, it becomes evident on why the reference 5208P is not just any ordinary watch, but a testament to the pinnacle of watchmaking excellence as it signifies the manufacture’s exquisite craftsmanship and unparalleled achievements in innovation and complications.
As one of the brand’s most coveted and complicated wristwatches incorporating a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar, and a single button chronograph, the reference 5208 represents the epitome of haute horology. The perpetual calendar is displayed through three apertures at 10:30, 12 o’clock, and 1:30, which instantaneously and synchronously jump precisely at midnight. This solution—beyond granting the calendar display a minimalist and extremely elegant aesthetic— avoids misreadings possible with much more common, noninstantaneous, calendar changes. In order to achieve this, a very specific module had to be developed in order to transmit the exact amount of power at the correct instant. Furthermore, the calendar is accompanied by the moon phase display, a staple of Patek Philippe perpetual calendar timepieces dating back to more than a century. The intricacy of this movement becomes apparent when considering it is made out of a mind-blowing 719 components in total.
A virtually unworn, exceedingly rare, and highly important platinum minute repeating single-button chronograph wristwatch with instantaneous perpetual calendar, moon phase, Certificate of Origin, and boxes
Manufacturer Patek Philippe Year 2017
Reference No. 5208P
Movement No. 5’175’536
Case No. 6’067’638
Material Platinum
Calibre Automatic, cal. R CH 27 PS QI, 63 jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions 42mm Diameter
Signed Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Estimate
$500,000–1,000,000
€469,000–939,000
Accessories
Accompanied by a Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated March 13, 2017, additional solid caseback, setting pin, leather folder, leather wallet, product literature, Patek Philippe letter in leather folder, and large wooden presentation box.
Frequently spotted on the wrist of Thierry Stern and produced in extremely small quantities since 2011, this masterpiece is reserved only for the most distinguished Patek Philippe clients upon application. Each client is then carefully considered and can only be granted with a purchasing opportunity once approved by the Stern family.
The present example is offered by its original owner, in brand new, unworn condition, and comes accompanied with all of its original accessories. Discontinued in 2018 with only pink goldcased models available in the current catalogue, the current lot is one of a few to appear back on the market, highlighting the level of attachment collectors show for this outstanding model and the consequent difficulty in sourcing it.
PROPERTY FROM THE ORIGINAL OWNER
INDEX
69 A. Lange & Söhne 119.032 Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi
70 A. Lange & Söhne 330.039 Saxonia Annual Calendar U.S. Boutique Exclusive
77 A. Lange & Söhne 302.025 Langematik Anniversary Jubilee
111 A. Lange & Söhne 139.032 Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase
113 A. Lange & Söhne 310.021 Langematik Perpetual
126 A. Lange & Söhne 233.032 1815
137 A. Lange & Söhne 245.032 1815 Kalenderwoche
138 A. Lange & Söhne 101.049 Lange 1 Cellini
143 A. Lange & Söhne 403.035 Datograph
82 Attributed to Louis Elisée Piguet
36 Audemars Piguet 25654BA Royal Oak
55 Audemars Piguet 5273
57 Audemars Piguet 25558BA Quantiême Perpétual Automatique
61 Audemars Piguet 26595SR.OO.A032V.01 (Re)Master 01 Self Winding Chronograph
62 Audemars Piguet 26258BC Jules Audemars Equation of Time
63 Audemars Piguet 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
71 Audemars Piguet 26401RO.OO.A002CA.01 Royal Oak Offshore
72 Audemars Piguet 26574ST.OO.1220ST.02 Royal Oak
109 Audemars Piguet 5402 ST Royal Oak A-Series “Khanjar”
110 Audemars Piguet 26574OR Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
127 Audemars Piguet 26378IO Royal Oak Offshore Arnold Schwarzenegger The Legacy Chronograph
128 Audemars Piguet 26331OR.00.D315CR.01 Royal Oak Chronograph
130 Audemars Piguet 15407ST.00.1220ST.01 Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openwork
125 Breguet 5177BB299V6 Classic
42 Breitling 7650 Co-Pilot
3 Cartier 2718 Tank Cintrée
4 Cartier WGCH0087 Crash
37 Cartier 2610E Tortue Minute Repeater
38 Cartier Maxi Oval “Bracelet”
98 Cartier Crash
Maxi Oval “Black Dial”
99 Cartier
100 Cartier Single Axle Mystery Clock “Pendule Mystérieuse”
101 Cartier Pendulette à Chevalet
95 Charles Frodsham Grande Complication
60 Daniel Roth C117
115 Eberhard Pre Extra-Fort
5 F.P. Journe
6 F.P. Journe
66 F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Souverain “Holland & Holland”
Chronomètre à Résonance RTA
Centigraphe Souverain
Journe Tourbillon Souverain “Brass Movement”
Centigraphe Souverain “F”
Chronomètre à Résonance “Brass Movement”
Tourbillon Souverain “38MM”
Journe Vagabondage I
F.P. Journe Vagabondage II
F.P. Journe Vagabondage III
F.P. Journe Triptyque Box
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Anniversaire
Historique “T30”
39 Patek Philippe 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
49 Patek Philippe 5522A-001 Calatrava Pilot
50 Patek Philippe 5130P-001 World Time
51 Patek Philippe 5136/1G-001
52 Patek Philippe 5711/1A-010 Nautilus
53 Patek Philippe 5160/500G-001
54 Patek Philippe 5970G-001
112 Patek Philippe 5059J-015
117 Patek Philippe 3800/1 Nautilus
124 Patek Philippe 130
129 Patek Philippe 5712/1A Nautilus
144 Patek Philippe 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
145 Patek Philippe 5230G-010 World Time “New York Edition”
146 Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001
147 Patek Philippe 5320G-001
151 Patek Philippe 5208P
87 Philippe Dufour Duality
94 Philippe Dufour Simplicty
73 Richard Mille RM011 AK TI Felipe Massa
149 Richard Mille RM 11-03 Le Mans
78 Roger Dubuis H40 27 0 Hommage Condottieri
2 Rolex 116710BLNR GMT-Master II “Batman”
13 Rolex 1665 Sea-Dweller “Great White”
14 Rolex 1675
GMT-Master “Mark 0”
16 Rolex 1601 Datejust
17 Rolex 1680 Submariner
18 Rolex 16528 Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
20 Rolex 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
21 Rolex 6541 Milgauss
22 Rolex 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman John Player Special”
34 Rolex 6605 Datejust
41 Rolex 6202 Submariner “Turn-O-Graph”
44 Rolex 16550 Explorer II, Steger International Polar Expedition
45 Rolex 16520 Oyster Cosmograph Daytona “Tiffany & Co.”
46 Rolex 116506 Cosmograph Daytona “Platona”
47 Rolex 116519 Cosmograph Daytona “Netherlands Edition” 48 Rolex 6264 Cosmograph Daytona
Perpetual “Datejust” 105
SALE INFORMATION
Auction & Viewing Location
432 Park Avenue, New York 10022
Auction Session 1, lots 1–75
Saturday, 8 June at 10am
Session 2, lots 76–151
Sunday, 9 June at 10am
Viewing
5–7 June, 10am to 7pm
Sale Designation
When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as NY080124 or The New York Watch Auction: X.
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Tel +1 212 940 1228
Fax +1 212 940 1749 bidsnewyork@phillips.com
Auction License 2013224
Auctioneers
Jeremiah Evarts
Sarah Krueger
Rebekah Bowling
Blake Koh
Jaime Israni
Isabella Proia
Henry Highley
Rebecca Tooby-Desmond
Susanna Brockman
Louise Simpson
Aurel Bacs
Benoit Repellin
Marcello de Marco
Clara Kessi
Tiffany To
Jonathan Crockett
Thomas Perazzi
Danielle So
Gertrude Wong
Catalogues catalogues@phillips.com, $50/50 CHF/£35
Client Accounts clientaccountswatches@phillips.com
Shipping
Aiana Dadanova
Shipping Coordinator +1 917 594 2969 adadanova@phillips.com
Photography
Benjamin Kramer
Watch Department
New York
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
International Strategy Advisor
Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist
Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Head of Sale, International Specialist Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
Consultant
Jaclyn Li +1 617 697 5030 jli@phillips.com
Senior Administrator & Business
Development Coordinator
Erica Downs +1 212 940 1389 edowns@phillips.com
Administrator Anne-Victoire Paltzer +1 917 886 7879 apaltzer@phillips.com
Geneva
Senior Consultant
Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Senior Consultant
Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Client Relations Manager at Bacs & Russo
Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Administrative Assistant at Bacs & Russo Athena Bras +41 22 317 9665 abras@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe and Middle East Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 81 81 aghotbi@phillips.com
Head of Sale,
Senior International Specialist Tiffany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Specialist and Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Associate Specialist
Edoardo Bolla +41 79 552 73 68 ebolla@phillips.com
Specialist/Perpetual Gstaad Clement Finet +41 79 173 03 45 cfinet@phillips.com
International Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
Senior Editorial Manager
Logan Baker +1 346 445 0068 lbaker@phillips.com
Social Media Manager
Lucie Delaporte +41 79 537 58 02 ldelaporte@phillips.com
Video Producer Arthur Touchais atouchais@phillips.com
International Business Director Myriam Christinaz +41 22 317 8184 mchristinaz@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business Development Director Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Head of Strategic Partnership & Events, Watches, Europe
Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com
Administrator Tina Schmitt +41 22 317 96 67 tschmitt@phillips.com
Shipping & Office Coordinator Charles-Henri Gounod +41 79 532 0395 chgounod@phillips.com
Finance & Office Administration Alexia Rinalducci +41 22 317 96 71 arinalducci@phillips.com
Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Photographer Jess Hoffman contact@jesshoffman.ch
Hong Kong
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Head of Sale, Specialist Gertrude Wong +852 2318 2045 gertrudewong@phillips.com
Specialist Alvin Lau +852 2318 2035 alvinlau@phillips.com
Specialist, Perpetual Jonathan Siu +852 2318 2075 jonathansiu@phillips.com
Cataloguer Yunyi Xu +852 2318 2074 yunyixu@phillips.com
Cataloguer Lydia Ip +852 2318 2015 lydiaip@phillips.com
Senior Administrator Stanley Sit +852 2318 2018 stanleysit@phillips.com
Senior Administrator
Sammie Leung +852 2318 2040 sammieleung@phillips.com
Zurich
Deputy Chairman, Watches, International Head of Perpetual James Marks +41 79 563 86 33 jmarks@phillips.com
London
Specialist
Chris Youé +44 777 814 3563 cyoue@phillips.com
Paris
International Business Development Director
Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
China
Consultant
Daniel Sum +852 6887 5110 danielsum@phillips.com
Singapore
Senior International Specialist
Zi Yong Ho +65 9820 3837 ziyongho@phillips.com
Tokyo
Senior Specialist Consultant
Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
Senior Consultant
Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Taiwan
Deputy Chairwoman, General Manager, Taiwan
Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Regional Representative
Leon Huang +886 2 2758 5505 lhuang@phillips.com
Thailand
Senior Consultant
Rika Dila +66 818 186 878 rikadila@phillips.com
Advisory Board
Jean-Claude Biver
Henry Chan
Helmut Crott
Ike Honigstock
Stephen Charles Li
David Lou
TK Mak
Auro Montanari
Jason Singer
Kenneth Wong
GUIDE FOR PROSPECTIVE BUYERS OF JEWELRY AND WATCHES
Buying at Auction
The following pages are designed to offer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staff will be happy to assist you.
Conditions of Sale
The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear in this catalogue form your agreement with Phillips and the Seller at the pre-sale exhibition and the auction. You are strongly encouraged to read them. Note that Phillips acts as agent for the seller.
Buyer’s Premium
Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 27% of the hammer price up to and including $1.000,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above $1,000,000 up to and including $6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $6,000,000.
1 Prior to Auction Catalogue Subscriptions
If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at catalogues@phillips.com.
Pre-Sale Estimates
Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers and not a guarantee of the price a lot will be sold at. Any bid within the low and the high estimate range should, in our opinion, offer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where “Estimate on Request” appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. Pre-sale estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or any applicable taxes.
Pre-Sale Estimates in Pounds Sterling and Euros
Although the sale is conducted in US dollars, for your convenience, the pre-sale estimates in auction catalogues may also be printed in pounds sterling and/or euros. Exchange rates fluctuate and you should treat estimates in pounds sterling or euros as a guide only.
Catalogue Entries
Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of lot, as well as its exhibition history and references to the lot in publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions and descriptions of a lot in the catalogue entry are approximate and not a guarantee.
Condition of Lots
Our catalogues may include references to a lot’s condition in the lot’s description. A reference to condition, however, does not amount to a full description of condition and you should always examine the watch in person at our exhibition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in its catalogue entry does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections or that the reference is comprehensive. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property and the nature of the auction in which it is included. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staff are not professional restorers or trained conservators. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of significant value, that you retain your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding.
Pre-Auction Viewing
Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists are available to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment.
Electrical and Mechanical Lots
All lots with electrical and/or mechanical features are sold on the basis of their decorative value only and should not be assumed to be operative. It is essential that, prior to any intended use, the electrical system is verified and approved by a qualified electrician.
Symbol Key
The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue.
O Guaranteed Property
Lots designated with the symbol [O] are the subject of a minimum price guarantee. In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless of the outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. This guarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party.
♦
Third Party Guarantee
Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the financial risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee. Because the sums involved can be significant Phillips may choose to share the burden of that financial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk by committing in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot for an agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In this way the third party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching the amount of the minimum price guarantee.
In return for underwriting or sharing this risk Phillips will usually compensate the third party. The compensation may be in the form of a fi xed fee or an amount calculated by reference to the hammer price of the lot.
Disclosure of financial interest by third parties
Phillips requires third party guarantors to disclose their financial interest in the lot to anyone whom they are advising. If you are contemplating bidding on a lot which is the subject of a third party guarantee and you are being advised by someone or if you have asked someone to bid on your behalf you should always ask them to confirm whether or not they have a financial interest in the lot.
Δ Property in Which Phillips Has an Ownership Interest
Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest.
• No Reserve
Unless indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are offered subject to a reserve. A reserve is the confidential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate.
Σ Regulated Species
Lots with this symbol have been identified at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import.
∞ Charitable Contribution Deduction
Buyers of lots indicated with a ∞ symbol may be entitled to claim a charitable contribution deduction for the hammer price, but such deduction will be limited to the excess of the hammer price paid for the lot over its fair market value. In accordance with applicable IRS regulations, Phillips has provided a good faith estimate of the fair market value for each lot which is the mean of the pre-sale estimates relating to that lot.
Jewelry Notices
Colored Gemstones
Many colored gemstones are treated to enhance their properties. Enhancement procedures are widely accepted by the international jewelry profession. For example, heating is commonly used to improve the color or transparency of rubies and sapphires and oiling is commonly used to enhance the clarity of emeralds. While heat enhancement of color is generally believed to be permanent, the process may impact the durability of the gemstone and special care of the stone may be required over time. Oiled gemstones may need to be re-oiled after a period of years to retain their maximum clarity.
Gemological Reports
As a matter of policy, for certain gemstones offered for sale, Phillips will obtain gemological reports from officially recognized laboratories. A summary of these reports is included in the lot’s catalogue description, and a copy of the report is available upon request. Reports from American gemological laboratories will generally disclose heat enhancement or treatment of colored gemstones. Note that European gemological laboratory reports disclose heat enhancement only if specifically requested but will generally confirm when no heat enhancement or treatment has been made. These variations in approach and technology by different gemological laboratories may result in a lack of consensus among reports on whether any particular gemstone has been treated, the extent of treatment and whether treatment is permanent.
Phillips does not obtain reports for all gemstones offered at auction. Prospective buyers should bear in mind that colored gemstones offered for sale without a gemological report or a specific statement in the catalogue entry may still have been treated to enhance color, transparency or clarity. Enhancement of colored gemstones may affect market value, and our pre-sale estimates reflect the assumption that any colored gemstone not described in the catalogue entry as natural may have been treated.
Country of Origin
While Phillips attempts to obtain accurate information on the country of origin of gemstones, we do not guarantee the correctness of the catalogue or other descriptions of gemstones including country of origin.
Watches Notices
Phillips makes no representation or warranty that any watch is in working order, and no catalogue description of any lot should be construed as so stating. Prospective buyers are advised to have watches checked by a competent watchmaker before use. As a service to prospective buyers, we may provide a description of the condition of watches in the catalogue entry, including references to defects and repairs, and furnish a condition report, but such information is not necessarily complete and may not specify all mechanical replacements, restorations or defects. Please note that Phillips does not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since prior repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Nor does Phillips warrant that watches in water-resistant cases are currently water-resistant. Prospective buyers should inspect all watches prior to the auction to evaluate the condition of property offered for sale.
▼ Importation of Watches Into the United States
Prospecting buyers should be aware that the importation of luxury watches such as Rolex into the United States is highly restricted. These watches (not limited to Rolex) may not be shipped into the US and may only be imported personally. US customs regulations generally limit the importation of luxury watches to one per buyer. Lots marked with ▼ are subject to these restrictions. A purchaser’s inability to import a luxury watch into the United States or Phillips’s failure to mark a lot with ▼ shall not constitute grounds for non-payment or cancellation of the sale.
✦ Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species
Some of the watches offered for sale in this catalogue may have bands made of regulated or protected animal materials such as alligator or crocodile and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained above, these lots are marked with ✦ in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle.
2
Bidding in the Sale
Bidding at Auction
Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of government issued identification will be required, as will an original signature. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference.
Bidding in Person
To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufficient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staff member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk.
Bidding by Telephone
If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multi-lingual staff members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least $1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable taxes, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone.
Online Bidding
If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The first time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafter you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate firewalls may cause difficulties for online bidders.
Absentee Bids
If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confidential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price accounting for the reserve and other bidders. You must indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable taxes. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence.
Employee Bidding
Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures.
Bidding Increments
Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment.
$50 to $1,000 by $50s
$1,000 to $2,000 by $100s
$2,000 to $3,000 by $200s
$3,000 to $5,000 by $200s, 500, 800 ( i.e. , $4,200, 4,500, 4,800)
$5,000 to $10,000 by $500s
$10,000 to $20,000 by $1,000s
$20,000 to $30,000 by $2,000s
$30,000 to $50,000 by $2,000s, 5,000, 8,000
$50,000 to $100,000 by $5,000s
$100,000 to $200,000 by $10,000s above $200,000 auctioneer’s discretion
The auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.
Conditions of Sale
As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or auctioneer’s announcement during the Auction.
Interested Parties Announcement
In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the beneficiary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot.
Consecutive and Responsive Bidding; No Reserve Lots
The auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low presale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the auctioneer may deem such lot unsold.
4 After the Auction Payment
Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements are agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in US dollars either by cash or wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. It is our corporate policy not to make or accept single or multiple payments in cash or cash equivalents in excess of US$2,000.
Credit Cards
Credit Cards: As a convenience to our Buyers, Phillips will accept payment for their purchases via American Express, Visa and MasterCard. Credit card payments at our New York premises will only be accepted for New York auctions. Please note your use of your credit card may incur a surcharge added by your credit card issuer. Phillips will not charge you this surcharge if you use your credit card for your purchases with us that are less than US $30,000 or if you remit your payment by wire transfer. However, if you choose to use your credit card for a purchase that equals or exceeds US $30,000, Phillips will charge you a surcharge that does not exceed the amount of the surcharge charged by your credit card issuer. If you wish to take advantage of the convenience of using your credit card, you must notify our Client Accounts department prior to the date that your payment is due. Your invoice will then clearly reflect the cost to you of each payment method that you may choose between: that is, either a payment via wire transfer or a payment via credit card with the surcharge amount clearly identified. You may then choose at the time of payment to pay by either payment method. If you pay for your purchase using a credit card from an issuer located outside the United States, you will be responsible for payment of any international transaction fee incurred by such use and charged by your credit card issuer. Before you remit any payment, you should check with your card issuer whether international transaction fees will apply to your purchase. If you have registered and bid as a company, your purchases will need to be paid via a credit card issued to your company’s account and not under your personal account. Phillips does not retain any credit card information. By making a payment via credit card, you: (i) warrant and represent that you are the cardholder; and (ii) acknowledge and agree that Phillips has no liability for our not receiving your payment if it is refused by or declined by your card issuer, or for any other reason for non-payment by them. Please ensure by contacting Phillips or your card issuer that your payment has been remitted and accepted.
Loss or Damage
Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction. Thereafter, risk of loss passed to the Buyer and they should ensure that their lot is insured under their own insurance policy.
Collection
All purchased and fully paid for lots can be collected from the Watch or Jewelry Department at 432 Park Avenue during our regular weekday business hours. Please contact us to make an appointment prior to your planned date of pick-up. It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will only be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer.
Transport and Shipping
Alternatively, we will either provide packing, handling and shipping services or coordinate with shipping agents in order to facilitate such services for property purchased at Phillips. If the Lot is collected in New York by the buyer or the buyer’s designee (including any private carrier) for subsequent transport out of state, Phillips is be required by law to collect New York sales tax, regardless of the lot’s ultimate destination. Please refer to Paragraph 17 of the Conditions of Sale for more information.
Export and Import Licenses
Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent inquiries as to whether a license is required to export the property from the United States or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licenses or permits. The denial of any required license or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot.
Regulated Species
Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a license or certificate prior to exportation and additional licenses or certificates upon importation to any foreign country. Please note that the ability to obtain an export license or certificate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import license or certificate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licenses or certificates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species.
Privacy
Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws.
Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be filmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications.
Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Please return this form by email to bidsnewyork@phillips.com at least 24 hours before the sale Please read carefully the information in the right column and note that it is important that you indicate whether you are applying as an individual or on behalf of a company.
Please select the type of bid you wish to make with this form (please select one): In-person Absentee Bidding Telephone Bidding
Please indicate in what capacity you will be bidding (please select one): As a private individual On behalf of a company
Phone (for Phone Bidding only)
Phone number to call at the time of sale (for Phone Bidding only)
Please complete the following section for telephone and absentee bids only Lot Number Brief Description US $ Limit* In Consecutive Order Absentee Bids Only
Paddle Number
432 Park Avenue New York 10022 phillips.com +1 212 940 1200 bidsnewyork@phillips.com
• Private purchases: Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identification and proof of address will be required.
• Company purchases: If you are buying under a business entity, we require a copy of government-issued identification (such as the certificate of incorporation) as well as proof of owners and directors to verify the status of the company.
• Conditions of Sale: All bids are placed and executed, and all lots are sold and purchased, subject to the Conditions of Sale printed in the catalogue. Please read them carefully before placing a bid. Your attention is drawn to Paragraph 4 of the Conditions of Sale.
• If you cannot attend the sale, we can execute bids confidentially on your behalf.
• Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 27% of the hammer price up to and including $1,000,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above $1,000,000 up to and including $6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $6,000,000.
• “Buy” or unlimited bids will not be accepted. Alternative bids can be placed by using the word “OR” between lot numbers.
• For absentee bids, indicate your maximum limit for each lot, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable sales or use tax. Your bid will be executed at the lowest price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. On no reserve lots, in the absence of other bids, your bid will be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount specified, if less than 50% of the low estimate.
• Your bid must be submitted in the currency of the sale and may be rounded down to the nearest amount consistent with the auctioneer’s bidding increments.
• If we receive identical bids, the first bid received will take precedence.
• Arranging absentee and telephone bids is a free service provided by us to prospective buyers. While we will exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for errors relating to execution of your bids except in cases of willful misconduct. Agreement to bid by telephone must be confirmed by you promptly in writing or by fax. Telephone bid lines may be recorded.
• Please submit your bids to the Bid Department by email to bidsnewyork@phillips.com or by fax at +1 212 924 1749 at least 24 hours before the sale. You will receive confirmation by email within one business day. To reach the Bid Department by phone please call +1 212 940 1228.
• Absent prior payment arrangements, please provide a bank reference. Payment can be made by cash (up to $2,000, per calendar year), credit card (up to $30,000) or wire transfer.
• Lots cannot be collected until payment has cleared and all charges have been paid.
• By signing this Bid Form, you acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with Phillips’s Privacy Policy as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com.
• Phillips’s premises may be subject to video surveillance and recording. Telephone calls (e.g., telephone bidding) may also be recorded. We may process that information in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
* Excluding Buyer’s Premium and sales or use taxes
Please check this box to receive emails about upcoming sales, exhibitions, and special events offered by members of the Phillips group, as referenced in our Privacy Policy available on our website at www.phillips.com, where you may also update your email preferences or unsubscribe at any time.