Geneva Watch Auction: XI Geneva / 27 & 28 June 2020
Geneva
Watch Auction: XI Geneva / 27 & 28 June 2020
Sale information
Watch Department, Geneva
Regional Director, Business Development Director
Senior Consultants
Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Geneva, 27 & 28 June 2020 Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland
Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Business Development Manager Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com
Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants
Administrator
Auctions Saturday, 27 June 2020, 5pm Session 1 Sunday, 28 June 2020, 5pm Session 2
Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com Shipping & Ofce Coordinator
Under the aegis of Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
Viewing Wednesday, 24 June, 10am–8pm Thursday, 25 June, 10am–8pm Friday, 26 June, 10am–8pm Saturday, 27 June, 9am–3.30pm Sunday, 28 June, 9am–3.30pm
Specialists Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com
Sale Designation When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080120 or The Geneva Watch Auction: XI Absentee and Telephone Bids Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Marc-Antoine Moreau +41 22 317 96 60 mamoreau@phillips.com Finance & Ofce Administration Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com Watchmaker, Technical Support Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Our Team Watches
Executives
Senior Consultants
Edward Dolman
Aurel Bacs
Chief Executive Ofcer
Senior Consultant
+1 212 940 1241 edolman@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 88 abacs@phillips.com
Š Brigitte Lacombe
Cheyenne Westphal
Livia Russo
Global Chairwoman
Senior Consultant
+44 20 7318 4044 cwestphal@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 88 lrusso@phillips.com
Deputy Chairmen & Chairwomen
Svetlana Marich
Jonathan Crockett
Peter Sumner
Miety Heiden
Worldwide Deputy Chairman
Deputy Chairman, Asia, Head of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Asia
Deputy Chairman, Europe, Senior International Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairwoman, Head of Private Sales
+44 20 7318 4010 smarich@phillips.com
+852 2318 2023 jcrockett@phillips.com
+44 20 7901 7943 mheiden@phillips.com
+44 20 7318 4063 psumner@phillips.com
Vanessa Hallett
Vivian Pfeifer
Marianne Hoet
Elizabeth Goldberg
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Worldwide Head of Photographs
Deputy Chairman, Americas, Head of Business Development, Americas
Deputy Chairwoman, Europe, Senior Specialist, 20th Century & Contemporary Art
Deputy Chairwoman, Americas, Senior International Specialist, American Art
+1 212 940 1243 vhallett@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1392 vpfeifer@phillips.com
+32 3257 3026 mhoet@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1239 egoldberg@phillips.com
New York
Paul Boutros
Doug Escribano
Geof Hess
Isabella Proia
Daniella Rosa
Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor
Senior International Specialist
International Specialist and Head of Perpetual, Americas
Specialist
Business Development Manager
+1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
+1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com
Alexandre Ghotbi
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Arthur Touchot
Tifany To
Marcello de Marco
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East
Specialist
Specialist, Head of Digital Strategy
Specialist
Specialist, Business Development Associate
+1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
+1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com
Geneva
+41 22 317 81 89 aghotbi@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 82 vliatard@phillips.com
Nathalie Monbaron
Diana Ortega
Regional Director, Business Development Director
Business Development Manager
+41 22 317 81 83 nmonbaron@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 87 dortega@phillips.com
London
+41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com
+41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Paris
James Marks
Christopher YouĂŠ
Pansy Ku
International Specialist
Specialist
+44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com
+44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com
International Business Development Director +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
+41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Hong Kong
Thomas Perazzi
Jill Chen
Zi Yong Ho
Shoyo Kawamura
Head of Watches, Asia
Head of Watches, Hong Kong
Head of Sale, Specialist
Cataloguer
+852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
+852 2318 2033 jchen@phillips.com
+852 2318 2032 zho@phillips.com
+852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com
Taiwan
Tokyo
Genki Sakamoto
Kaz Fujimoto
Cindy Yen
Zach Lu
Senior Specialist Consultant
Senior Consultant
Senior Specialist
Consultant
+81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com
+81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
+886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
+852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
International Business Directors
Myriam Christinaz
Bart van Son
Co-International Business Director
Co-International Business Director
+41 22 317 81 84 mchristinaz@phillips.com
+44 20 7901 7912 bvanson@phillips.com
Welcome By Alexandre Ghotbi This desire to own a piece of horological history also refects an aspiration to transcend time and to leave a personal legacy as watches are one of the extremely rare objects that are perfectly sustainable; their energy comes from human intervention and no programed obsolescence applies as they are made to last generations and be passed on as an heirloom.
The past months have been unprecedented for all of us around the world and the ofen used phrase, “business as usual”, has defnitely lost its meaning. We have all been challenged like never before, and patterns that we believed were carved in stone, have shifed. Some members of our community, or their loved ones, have unfortunately sufered a great deal and our hearts go out to all of those impacted by the dreaded virus. While in confnement, we all had to adapt to a new normal, learning what was really meaningful to us: rediscovering playing with our children, listening to the birds early in the morning, baking with loved ones, reading a book we have already read numerous times, and even afer the 20th Zoom meeting, the welcoming smile of a colleague or a friend. For us, a most amazing surprise was the large amount of phone calls and inquiries from experienced, seasoned, and novice watch collectors reaching out to us, not to inquire about the market or prices but to simply share friendship , and solidarity but also to indulge in our shared passion. Watches are more than just precious objects. They provide a sense of belonging… belonging to a community, of friendship amongst people who may have never met but share common values and who want to support each other in any way they can. At the same time watches have ofered a welcome and much-needed escape, serving as our “happy place” during these challenging times. One key takeaway from this period has been the resilience of mankind, its capacity to adapt, react, be creative, and its ability to stand united. This period will change the way we live, the way we think and the way we consume, and at Phillips Watches, we are frm believers that attributes such as honesty, rarity, and crafsmanship will be even more relevant and coveted going forward. This sale is also the frst of this new decade and allows us to look back upon the past twenty years with a defnitive conclusion: watch collecting is not a trend…it is here to stay. With each new sale, we see the arrival on the market of new clientele, some younger with a huge appetite to learn, but all with a yearning to keep this beautiful hobby of ours alive and thriving.
If you are reading these lines life has quite likely returned to (a new) normal. We at Phillips Watches hope that you and your loved ones are unscathed or fully recovered from the virus, and now have the peace of mind to appreciate what you will discover in the following pages: watches of the highest quality, rarity, collectability and desirability. A potent mix of rare modern watches and incredibly fascinating vintage models, our Geneva Watch Auction XI ofers the type of diversity that adds color, depth, and balance to collecting. We at Phillips have the honor and privilege of ofering in this sale, four incredible Patek Philippe wristwatches from JeanClaude Biver’s personal collection. Few in the watchmaking industry epitomize tradition and innovation the way Mr. Biver does. Mr. Biver is a titan in our feld, with his fngers frmly on the pulse of the industry and to whom so many of us owe a debt of gratitude for his role in what 21st century watchmaking looks like today. As you’ll see, there are too many watches of importance, beauty, rarity and originality in this catalogue to mention here. I therefore invite you to take your time, put your feet up, fip through the following pages, and discover the incredible selection. I hope our catalogue will give you as much pleasure as it gave us when putting it together for you. Our Geneva Watch Auction XI originally scheduled for May 9-10 was postponed to June 27-28 and the gathering of over 200 tiempieces and the subsequent catalogue procedures (research, evaluations, photography, footnotes etc…) were all done in the midst of these uncertainties. For this reason, I would like to extend my heartfelt thanks to the Phillips Watches teams, especially my colleagues in Geneva, for their never fading enthusiasm, incredible dedication and passion in preparing this catalogue. It wasn’t easy but it was worth it. I would also like to express my gratitude to all our loyal clients for their trust in consigning their valuable watches in these troubled times knowing well that, like always, we have their best interest at heart and that we would treat their watches as our very own.
Alexandre Ghotbi
Session one 27 June 2020, 5pm Lots 1–109
1.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, center seconds, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2019
Reference No.
116618LN
Case No.
M’911’004
Model Name
Submariner
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∙ $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated January 2, 2019, leather wallet, product literature, additional links, hangtag, presentation box and outer packaging.
Hefy and luxurious, reference 116618LN is the glamorous version of the iconic Submariner model. Displaying all the original features of the iconic tool watch (such as the uni directional rotating bezel, depth rating on the dial and Oyster bracelet), it is most notably cased in yellow gold. Compared to its predecessors, reference 116618 was ftted with a Cerachrom bezel, making it scratch resistant. Still in production, this model is incredibly difcult to obtain at any Rolex boutique, further enhancing its desirability. Ofered without reserve, it is preserved in excellent and unpolished condition, and ofered with all its original accessories.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
2.
ROLEX — A fne, attractive and well-preserved stainless steel dual time wristwatch with center seconds, date, black and blue Cerachrom bezel, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2019
Reference No.
126710BLNR
Case No.
59’3D3’209
Model Name
GMT-Master II “Batman”
Material
Stainless steel with Cerachrom bezel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3285, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed.
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card dated August 28, 2019, product literature, green card holder, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 126710BLNR was frst presented during Baselworld 2019 and received immediate praise by both critics and collectors. Nicknamed the “Batman” for its obvious bicolour black and blue bezel, the watch incorporates all the most beloved traits of the new GMT-Master II line: an iconic Cerachrom 24-hour rotatable bezel, the new caliber 3285 and a polished and brushed Jubilee bracelet; a novelty for Rolex sports watches which used to have an Oyster bracelet. Ofered in absolutely as-new condition, unworn and retaining all its original accessories, this example is a continuity of the original 2013 “Batman” reference 116710BLNR and is already considered a classic collectible for any watch afcionado.
3.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with guarantee, hang tag and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2017
Reference No.
116518LN
Movement No.
9’P741’5E4
Case No.
81’48M’051
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 ∙ $12,500-18,700 €11,400-17,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped August 11, 2017, hang tag, wallet, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Cased in yellow gold, this reference 116518LN displays black accents and a ceramic bezel, giving the watch a very striking appearance. The model is most notably ftted with Rolex’s in-house movement, the caliber 4130, which was an upgrade from the previous Zenith-based chronograph movement. It furthermore features a sporty Oysterfex rubber strap, which was both developed and patented by Rolex. While still in production, it is incredibly difcult to obtain this model at the Rolex boutique. Ofered without reserve, it is complete with its Rolex guarantee stamped August 11, 2017, hang tag, wallet, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging. It is furthermore preserved in excellent and unpolished condition.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
4.
ROLEX — A rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1999
Reference No.
16520
Case No.
A928’773
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78390A, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp,
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed
reference 78390A, AB3
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee signed by Herbert Mayer, Augsburg and dated August 2000, green leather presentation box, International Service Guarantee dated 27 May, 2015, Rolex hang tags, green leather envelope, product literature and outer packaging.
Rolex surprised the public at the 1988 Basel Fair by introducing the frst self-winding chronograph model in its history. The newly launched reference 16520 was powered by a derivative of Zenith’s El Primero caliber, though substantially modifed by Rolex. It was the frst Daytona to be equipped with a sapphire crystal and upgraded to a new larger diameter of 40mm. The launch of the 16520 was an immediate success, resulting in unprecedented demand that would require clients to have to wait as long as seven years to purchase one. The present example is known as the “A Series”. Produced one year before the reference ceased production, it is today one of the most sought-afer variants of reference 16520, marking the end of an era for that model. Particularly versatile with its white dial, the present example is in excellent condition and is delivered full set with all appropriate box and papers.
5.
A fne and rare white gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Guarantee and box, originally sold to Eric Clapton
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
116529
Movement No.
C 0195622
Case No.
D241696
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“78499” and “MA5”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee stamped by English retailer George Pragnell and December 6, 2005, calendar card for the years 2006/2007, leather document holder, product literature, numbered sale tag, “faux seal” hangtag, plastic bezel protection, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
In 2000, Rolex revamped its Cosmograph Daytona line with the introduction of a completely new in-house movement - cal. 4130 - which took the place of the previously Zenith-supplied “El Primero” ebauche which was the base for the previous calibre. The new series is identifed by a six digits reference number, adding a “1” to the previous models (for example, ref. 16529 becomes the present ref. 116529). This example of the reference is distinguished not only by its remarkable condition and the presence of its original sale kit, but most importantly by its original owner being one of the most distinguished personalities in watch collecting: Eric Patrick Clapton. Considered one of the best guitarists of all time, Mr. Clapton’s passion for fne watchmaking is nearly as legendary as its musical prowess. Having reportedly owned some of the most important timepieces in existence - such as the platinum Patek Philippe 2499 - Mr. Clapton’s collection is without a doubt counted among the most important in the world.
RO L E X Ref. 116529 “Te Eric Clapton Daytona”
6.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2009
Reference No.
5980/1A
Movement No.
4’041’563
Case No.
4’493’115
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520C, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
43.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $25,900-46,700 €23,700-42,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe setting pin, leather wallet, product literature and presentation box. Furthermore accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2009 and its subsequent sale on December 9, 2009.
With the release of the reference 3700 in 1976, Patek Philippe created one of the best stainless steel luxury wristwatches available on the market and in the ensuing 40 years, it became an icon. At the time of launch, Patek Philippe completely revolutionized the concept of a “sports watch” with its water resistant Nautilus case designed by famed Gerald Genta. The watch was rugged, masculine and sporty in nature and could be worn in both casual settings as well as formal afairs. Presented in 2006, reference 5980/1 was launched alongside its time-only sibling reference 5711. At the time of launch, it was a completely novel design as the Nautilus model had never incorporated a chronograph function before. A particularly early example, the present watch is preserved in excellent and superb condition with sharp fnishes throughout. The contrasting satin and polished fnishes are sharp and defned, attesting to the beauty and the condition of this timepiece.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5980/1A Nautilus
7.
A highly rare, exclusive and attractive limited edition stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with green dial, bracelet, original certifcate and presentation box, made for the Hong Kong market and retailed by Unique Timepieces
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2018
Reference No.
26606ST
Case No.
K08107
Model Name
Royal Oak Perpetual
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 5134, 38 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm and additional alligator strap with Audemars Piguet clasp
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $72,600-145,000 €66,400-133,000 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty card, additional strap, presentation box and outer packaging.
Audemars Piguet’s introduction of the Royal Oak marked the beginning of the luxury sports watch market we know today. Launched in 1972 at Basel Fair, it caused an immediate sensation as the watch industry had never seen anything comparable before. It was at the time the most expensive steel wristwatch available. It most notably housed the extra slim caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920, that would later be found in the Nautilus wristwatch. Today, the Royal Oak remains as iconic as ever, with early examples being exceedingly popular and collectible. Displaying a stunning green dial with the “Grande Tapisserie” motif, the present watch is one of 50 examples made for the Hong Kong retailer, Unique Timepieces. It features a perpetual calendar complication within the iconic Royal Oak case. An instant success, the present model was immediately sold out when it was launched in 2018. Today, it remains one of the most sought-afer Audemars Piguet limited edition models on the market. It is ofered in virtually new and unworn condition and is accompanied by its original factory sticker and accessories. The timepiece can be worn with its original Royal Oak bracelet, or an alternative green strap.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 26606ST Royal Oak Perpetual “Te Big Green” for Unique Timepieces
8.
A rare and attractive set of two limited edition gold wristwatches with large date and moonphase display
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Te Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi Set
8.
A rare and attractive set of two limited edition gold wristwatches with large date and moonphase display
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2003
Reference No.
119.032
Movement No.
39’135
Case No.
152’308 stamped 8/101
Model Name
Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, L901.8 and L901.7 , 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k pink gold Lange pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900
Even though A. Lange & Söhne is renowned for its technical mastery and highly engineered watches it manages to infuse its creations with a dash of poetry like the present set of Lange 1 Luna Mundi originally launched in 2003 as a limited edition of 101 pieces of which the present set is number 8. Each watch correctly indicates the moon’s position as seen from diferent hemispheres, the white gold model features the UrsaMajor (or Big Dipper) constellation on the dial and depicts the phases of the moon as seen in the Northern Hemisphere whereas the pink gold model features the Southern Cross and depicts the phases of the moon in the Southern Hemisphere.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Te Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi Set
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
2003
Reference No.
119.032
Movement No.
39’305
Case No.
152’508 stamped 8/101
Model Name
Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi
Material
18k white gold
Calibre
Manual, L901.8 and L901.7 , 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold Lange pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900
The watchmakers and engineers at Lange devised a very accurate system for the indication of the moonphases that move continuously (as opposed to most common versions found where the moon jumps an increment once or twice a day) and are so accurate that they need to be set once every 122 years. The calibre L901.8 and L901.7 housed within features Lange’s superlative Technicolor fnish. The Ursa Major model features 398 components, whereas Southern Cross’ cal L901.7, requires four more parts, including an additional wheel that reverses the rotation of the moon disc.
9.
A rare and attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moonphases, certifcate of origin, setting pin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5496P
Movement No.
5’988’668
Case No.
6’126’430
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 S QR, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 ∙ $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated August 11, 2017, setting pin, leather wallet, product literature, winding box and outer packaging.
Patek Philippe created its very frst perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and has never stopped innovating since. With the launch of its very frst serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, reference 1518, and serially produced perpetual calendar, reference 1526, the brand has stepped into the modern era of watchmaking by producing contemporary versions like no other. Launched in 2016, this variant of reference 5496 displays a satin silvered dial with applied gold markers, which is housed in a hefy platinum case. Housing a perpetual calendar function, the reference also displays a retrograde date at 12 o’clock, along with moonphases at 6 o’clock. Ofered in excellent and pristine condition, the present watch is ofered without reserve and is accompanied by its Certifcate of Origin dated August 11, 2017, setting pin, leather wallet, product literature, winding box and outer packaging.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5496P
10.
An exceptional and extremely elegant limited edition platinum minute repeating wristwatch
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
2001
Reference No.
30010/000P
Movement No.
927’919
Case No.
634’553
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1755, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Vacheron Constantin pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5m Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 $72,600-145,000 â‚Ź66,400-133,000 Accessories Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin dated December 14, 2001, additional engraved solid caseback, additional Vacheron Constantin platinum double deployant clasp, copy of the Warranty stamped by Wempe and dated January 19, 2002, numbered envelope, product literature, Wempe red envelope and massive wooden presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2001.
Minute repeating watches are counted among of the most difcult timepieces to assemble, requiring enormous skill and equally copious amount of time. Only the most profcient watchmakers and watchmaking brand can achieve this complication, and in very scarce numbers. For example, caliber 1755 - the one powering this watch - has been made in 200 pieces only. However, not all of them were employed on
the present model, but some found their way into perpetual calendar reference 30020 and 30040, or skeletonized ref. 30030. Only a fraction was used for the time only version unarguably the most understated of the ensemble and one of the most elegant, thanks to its minimalist dial nearly completely devoid of scales but featuring an extremely suave two-tone fnish. In depth research of the model unveiled the extreme scarcity of the reference in general, but - most importantly - of this specifc platinum version in particular: only 18 such pieces have ever been made by the frm. Denoting the enormous amount of attention the frm dedicated to the development and execution of this watch, the dial is realised from a piece of solid gold and the piece comes with two casebacks: a glazed one allowing the beholder to enjoy the spectacularly fnished movement, and a solid one engraved with a geometric motif, Vacheron Constantin signature, case number and an additional blank cartouche which was intended to house the name of the owner (or a similar engraving), option which was not adopted by the original owner who lef the space blank. It is noteworthy to mention that each one of these watches is technically unique, as the engraving on the solid caseback is specifc to every single one, with no two pieces bearing the same motif. The present example features a plethora of accessories: not only the certifcate of origin, additional caseback and box already enough to warm the hearts of discerning collectors - but it even presents a copy of the original Wempe purchase invoice.
VA C H E RO N C O N S TA N T I N Ref. 30010 Les Historiques “Double Caseback”
11.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A large stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with date, Certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 2007
Reference No.
26170ST
Movement No.
689’753
Case No.
G43559 and 5532
Model Name
Royal Oak Ofshore “Safari”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3126/3840, 59 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Audemars Piguet alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 ∑ $10,400-15,600 €9,500-14,200 Accessories Accompanied by unstamped and undated Audemars Piguet Certifcat de Garantie & d’Authenticité, instruction booklet, ftted wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak revolutionised the watch market with the concept of a luxury sport’s watch in steel something previously unseen and deemed to fail (and thus bringing down Audemars Piguet with it) by many observers at the time. As we know, history went in a diametrically opposite way, so much so that a chronographic, more rugged version of the model was introduced in 1992: the Royal Oak Ofshore. Produced in many variations, the present example of Royal Oak Ofshore is nicknamed “Safari”, a nod to its rugged and sporty appearance, boosted by the hornback crocodile textured strap. Another feature praised by collectors is the ivory dial, granting the watch a very suave, and nearly vintage vibe. Ofered in practically unused condition, the present piece is furthermore accompanied by its original Guarantee and box.
12.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, bracelet, warranty and presentation box
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2019
Reference No.
15500ST
Movement No.
AG7’384
Case No.
K42’051
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4302, 32 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,500-18,700 €11,400-17,100 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet warranty card, product literature and presentation box.
Released during the 2019 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, reference 15500 is one of the newest iterations of the iconic Royal Oak model, replacing reference 15400. Boasting an elegant 41 millimeter case, it houses the new in-house caliber 4302. Compared to its predecessor, the new caliber most notably has a longer power reserve function. Compared to the caliber 3120 which provided 60 hours, this version provides 70 hours. This timepiece is ofered with all its original accessories and preserved in pristine condition, displaying its original sharp and crisp fnishes and bevels. To the best of our knowledge, it is the frst time that this model is being ofered on the auction market.
13.
A spectacular, massive and extremely rare pink gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet and Certifcate retailed by Tifany & Co.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5980/1R
Movement No.
7’056’068
Case No.
6’178’175
Model Name
Nautilus, “The Boss”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 C, 35 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Patek Philippe bracelet
with the Patek Philippe Seal stamped “A384GAP”, max length 180mm Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
43.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker, dial further signed by retailer
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by New York retailer Tifany & Co. and dated May 4, 2017, original sale ticket, numbered envelope, numbered paper box, numbered sale tag, numbered plastic sleeve, Patek Philippe travel pouch, blue Tifany & Co pouch, ftted wooden presentation box, Tifany & Co. blue outer packaging, additional Tifany & Co. blue box.
Few modern non gem-set watches command more attention and bear more gravitas than the pink gold version of the Nautilus Chronograph reference 5980 with gold bracelet. It manages to unite under one case the inefable elegance of the Genta-designed Nautilus architecture, and the unrestrained statement-power of a full gold wristwatch. While this design is quite opposite to the understatement the Patek Philippe name is famous for, it is intriguing how the company succeeds in achieving a balance between unrestrained opulence, technicality and elegance. Using a metaphor, one could say that this is not a timepiece that screams to the world about wealth and exclusivity. Rather, it conveys the same concepts with a magnetic stare: it is more Rockefeller than Jay Gatsby. So powerful is its design that in the Phillips Geneva ofce it actually has come to be known with the nickname “The Boss”. Given the nearly mystical appeal of this timepiece, it is no surprise that the model is now arguably the most widely soughafer chronograph in current production by any brand. This piece is not only ofered in excellent condition, but furthermore it is one of the exceedingly rare examples retailed by New York jewelry powerhouse Tifany & Co, its name subtly printed on the dial below the Patek Philippe signature. The appeal of double-signed timepieces well exceeds that of their standard siblings given the rarity and the added veil of exclusivity that comes with the name of an important retailer especially one as well-known and respected as Tifany & Co. - on the dial.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5980/1R Nautilus “Te Tifany Boss”
13A.
An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1982
Reference No.
3700/11
Movement No.
1’310’244
Case No.
559’014
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-100,000 $72,600-104,000 €66,400-94,800 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming manufacture of the present watch in 1982 and its subsequent sale on January 3rd 1984.
Patek Philippe, with the introduction of the Nautilus in 1976 created one of the most iconic and classic wristwatches of the late 20th century. It was a new era of luxury and glamour. Gerald Genta’s design inspired by the portholes of transatlantic ocean liners was named afer Captain Nemo’s Nautilus submarine from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The ‘Jumbo’ case with wide fat bezel, integrated link bracelet, and ultra-thin automatic movement had a masculine
aesthetic compared to the smaller dressy gold mechanical watches of the time. Reference 3700/001 was in production until 1981 and featured a straight bracelet, while its successor the reference 3700/11 with tapered steel bracelet, remained in production until 1990 Whereas the steel model is an invitation to travel to far of exotic places, the gold version like the present model is the perfect wrist wear for a dolce vita art of living that requires sipping Negroni cocktails and listening to Stan Getz. The gold livery of the present Nautilus reference 3700 adds so much fair, sophistication and suave cool to an already amazing watch regardless of the metal. The present Nautilus is fresh to the market and ofered by the family of the original owner. The owner was a major art and watch collector, in 1984 his daughter lef home to study art in Geneva and the parents decided to accompany her. A visit to the Patek Philippe Salon resulted in the purchase of a Nautilus for each of the family members by the father: a reference 3800 in gold for his wife, a reference 3800 in steel and gold for his daughter and the present gold reference 3700 for himself. Finding the watch a bit too fashy he hardly wore the watch which has now been kept in a safe, unworn for over 25 years. In absolutely excellent condition, with strong bevels and tight bracelet the present Nautilus ofers an ultra rare opportunity to purchase a gold reference 3700, one of haute horology’s most iconic and coveted timepieces.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3700/11 Nautilus “Jumbo”
14.
A highly rare and attractive white gold wristwatch with date and bracelet
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus “One of Eleven Known White Gold Jumbo”
14.
A highly rare and attractive white gold wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1978
Reference No.
3700/1
Movement No.
1’306’560
Case No.
540’630
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255 C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000 $311,000-623,000 €284,000-569,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1978 with black matte ribbed dial and its subsequent sale on June 20, 1979. Furthermore accompanied by Patek Philippe presentation box and service papers.
The result of a collaboration between Patek Philippe and legendary designer Gerald Genta, the Nautilus was inspired by maritime portholes and named afer Captain Nemo’s submarine, the Nautilus, in Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The reference 3700 embodies every aspect of Patek Philippe’s avant-garde design philosophy of the 1970s, from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting fnish of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial. Exceedingly rare, the present watch is one of only 11 known reference 3700s cased in white gold. Moreover, only 9 known examples feature this dial confguration. Having originally appeared at auction in 2010 and consigned by the family of the original owner, this two-owner timepiece has resided in an important collection for many years before coming to the market for the second time. It is preserved in exceptional condition, with crisp edges and bevels throughout. The 18K white gold Gay Frères fat Nautilus clasp is correct, and the watch remains rigid and tight throughout. All hallmarks are crisp and visible beneath the lugs. Furthermore, the case has a beautiful luster and glows incandescently in way that can only be achieved with the use of white gold. The condition and ultimate rarity of this white gold Nautilus make it a must have for the discerning collector.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus “One of Eleven Known White Gold Jumbo”
15.
A massive, very rare and highly attractive white gold and diamond-set automatic chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, Certifcate and box. Part of a 1300 pieces limited edition made to commemorate the 40th Anniversary of the Patek Philippe Nautilus
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5976/1G
Model Name
Nautilus 40th Anniversary
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520 C, 35 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet,
wristwatch with date and further features a larger 44mm diameter case. Featuring what is the largest case size in the family of the Nautilus, the reference is most defnitely unique on its own. On the other hand, the dial alone is enough to captivate the minds of connoisseurs of Patek Philippe, as it is the frst to feature a commemoration date on the classic ribbed sunburst blue dial.
with the Patek Philippe Seal max length 210mm Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-300,000 $156,000-311,000 â‚Ź142,000-284,000 Accessories Accompanied By Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by Italian retailer FB Aurum and dated June 10, 2017, Limited Edition Attestation, setting pin, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
To commemorate what is considered to be one of the most iconic luxury sports wristwatches in modern times, Patek Philippe launched two limited edition wristwatches featuring a unique dial embossed with 1976-40-2016 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the much admired Nautilus. Included in the limited edition launch was the Nautilus ref. 5976G chronograph
With much resemblance to the reference 5980, similarly a chronograph with date powered by the same cal. CH 28-520 C, the reference 5976 is somewhat diferent. The commemorative piece features a case with the same thickness as the reference 5980, however as the diameter is slightly larger than the reference 5980, it wears slightly thinner on the wrist. Furthermore, the dial features baguette diamond-set indexes which generates an enhanced luxurious appeal to the luxury sports watch of the century. Launched as an unnumbered limited production of 1,300 pieces in 2016, the watches were ofered to loyal and the most supportive clients of Patek Philippe globally. The present example is a virtually mint specimen of a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5976G. It is further charmed by the original accessories that came with the watch when it was purchased by the original owner with the iconic cork presentation box. A wonderful opportunity for the lovers of Nautilus to acquire an important piece from the lineage of the world’s most iconic luxury sports watch manufactured by Patek Philippe.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5976/1G Nautilus 40thAnniversary
16.
A spectacular and very attractive yellow gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet, original certifcate, Gobbi papers and presentation box
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Te Only Known Ref. 3700/004 Nautilus “Te Diamond Halo”
16.
A spectacular and very attractive yellow gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet, original certifcate, Gobbi papers and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1980
Reference No.
3700/004
Movement No.
1’309’498
Case No.
549’456
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28 255C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 O $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin with Gobbi sticker dated October 1987, Gobbi Certifcate of Origin dated October 1987, ftted presentation box and outer packaging. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with black matte ribbed dial with applied yellow gold indexes and 72 diamonds in 1980 and its subsequent sale on December 9, 1981.
The Nautilus model is without a doubt one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic watch references ever produced. The very frst reference, 3700/1, embodied every aspect of Patek Philippe’s design philosophy, from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting fnishes of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial. The result was sublime. An ultimate collaboration between Philippe Stern and Gerald Genta, the Nautilus’ appearance was inspired by the robust proportions of maritime portholes. It is hard to qualify the many ways in which the Nautilus has changed the horological world. Its infuence extends far and wide, and has forever changed the way we view a sports watch. At the time of production, reference 3700/1 retailed for $3100 USD, which was considered a high sum. This superlative Nautilus is cased in yellow gold and displays a thin row of diamonds around the edge of the bezel. To the best of our knowledge, the present watch is the only known reference 3700/004 in existence, underscoring the absolute rarity of the present timepiece. It is furthermore preserved in most probably unpolished condition, showcasing all its original contrasting bevels, satin and polished fnishes. As an added layer of collectibility, it is even accompanied by its original certifcate from 1987 showing that the watch was retailed by Gobbi, Milano with a black dial and 72 brilliant diamonds, Gobbi Certifcate, presentation box and outer packaging.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Te Only Known Ref. 3700/004 Nautilus “Te Diamond Halo”
17.
CARTIER — A rare and highly attractive platinum wristwatch with presentation box
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 2000
Reference No.
2685G
Case No.
0164CE
Model Name
Tank Chinoise
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 437 MC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
29mm Width and 37mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-14,000 $7,300-14,500 €6,600-13,300 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier product literature and presentation box.
Cartier released their Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) series in 1998. A journey through the archives, these timepieces paid homage to the famed jeweler’s iconic designs. Among the icons that were re-issued were the Crash, Tank Cintrée and Tortue among others. Today, watches from the CPCP collection are particularly collectible among the collecting community. First launched in 1922, the Tank Chinoise was a stylish reinterpretation of the original Tank model. It featured two overlapping bars on either side of the case, providing additional fair and a design twist. The present watch is a modern interpretation. Cased in platinum, it is a beautiful ode to Cartier’s stylish designs of the 1920s and 1930s. The present watch is preserved in particularly excellent condition with sharp hallmarks beneath the case.
18.
CARTIER — A highly rare and attractive limited edition asymmetric wristwatch with original certifcate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
1996
Reference No.
2488
Case No.
A113278 and 025/300
Model Name
Tank Asymétrique
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 9 P2, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
23mm Width and 33mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-9,000 ∑ $6,200-9,300 €5,700-8,500 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier original certifcate, product literature and presentation box.
In 1996, Cartier released a limited edition based on the original “Parallelogram” from 1936. Always staying true to its core values, Cartier was constantly innovating by pushing the boundaries of design and form, particularly in the frst part of the 20th century. The tilted form of the watch was intended to make reading the time while driving easier, which also explains the legible Arabic numerals. The Tank Asymétrique was produced as a limited edition with 300 pieces cased in yellow gold and 100 pieces in platinum. The present example is preserved in excellent condition and is accompanied by its original certifcate, product literature and presentation box. So desirable and attractive is this model that Cartier launched a new interpretation of the Tank Asymétrique in its 2020 releases.
19.
A fne and rare yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1991
Reference No.
W30012
Case No.
No. 93
Model Name
“Pasha”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 ∑ O $25,900-51,900 €23,700-47,400
The brainchild of Gérald Genta, the modern Pasha collection was completely novel and unusual when it was frst launched in 1985. Most notably, the new line displayed distinct design codes: a round bezel, defned lugs, and a crown ftted with a cabochon secured by a chain connected to the case. Powered by an automatic movement, the present perpetual calendar wristwatch wristwatch is also ftted with a minute repeating function that is activated by a sapphire cabochon button on the lef and produces a pleasant chime. Most notably, the movement is stamped “GG” for Gerald Genta. With its bevy of complications, it presents enormous value. Genta’s designs are currently going through a resurgence and the present piece is full of nostalgia, representing the designer’s ingenious ideas of the 1990s - a period of time where manufactures dreamed of particularly unusual and whimsical timepieces. So attractive is the Pasha that Cartier re-issued this design in their 2020 lineup, providing a fresh and modern update to the iconic model.
C A RT I E R Pasha Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater
20.
ZENITH — An extremely attractive and very rare stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with date and brown tropical registers
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No.
SP 1301
Case No.
906D.094
Model Name
El Primero
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3019, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 Ό $5,200-10,400 €4,700-9,500 Accessories Accompanied by Zenith presentation box and undated guarantee stamped by the retailer.
1969 was a very important year for the watchmaking industry. While it is still a never ending discussion on whose automatic chronograph caliber came frst, it is accepted by everyone that the El Primero is the frst to be designed as a whole rather than being an automatic movement with an added chronograph module. With an extraordinary high frequency of 36’000 VPH, the mechanical movement ensured outstanding timekeeping performance. So highly regarded were these El Primero movements that they would later be selected by Rolex as the base on which to develop the movement of the frst automatic Daytona chronograph (reference 16520). The name El Primero refers to both the watch model and the movement. The present El Primero reference 1301 is part of the early production. At the time of the El Primero launch, two case designs were available, the one on the present watch is the most sculptural of the two. With strong angles and wide sunburst satin fnish sections, the watch exalts its beauty only when the case is perfectly crisp and has never been polished as in this example. To confrm the unworn condition of this watch, the caseback still retains its original blue paint. The dial is no less impressive: the once-black outer track and subsidiary dials have evenly aged to an astoundingly charming hazelnut hue. Such a strong tropicalization not only highly enhances the aesthetic virtues of the piece, it is furthermore an extremely rare occurrence and enormously enhances the appeal and collectability of this remarkable wristwatch.
21.
ZENITH — An extremely attractive and rare stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with date and tri-color registers
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No.
A3817
Case No.
904D926
Model Name
El Primero
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3019, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Gay Frères bracelet, end links stamped ZKM, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp stamped 3.71
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400
In 1969 Zenith announced the creation of what would become one of the most celebrated automatic movements of modern watchmaking, the “El Primero”. Directly translating from “The frst one”, this high beat movement is known today as the very frst automatic integrated chronograph movements ever created.
Instantaneously recognizable as a Zenith El Primero thanks to its tri-colour subdials, this modern and colourful sports watch reference A3817 is, according to research, far rarer than its sister reference A386 as only 1’000 pieces are believed to have been produced. Reference A3817’s dial also difers from its sister reference A386 by a more colourful dial scheme. While the colour of the three subdials are light and dark grey as well as blue, the subdial at 9 o’clock is enhanced by a unique blue hand and blue indexes subtly contrasting with the light grey background. The case construction fully refects the taste of the time, oriented on highly sculpted and angular designs. Such construction can only be fully appreciated if unpolished like the present piece, allowing the beholder to admire every edge and facet in its original glory. Fitted with its original styled Gay Frères ladder bracelet stamped for the third quarter of 1971, this watch ticks all the boxes of a highly collectible timepiece.
22.
An extremely rare, highly attractive and large stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with glossy black dial, luminous hour marker track, tachometer and telemeter scales
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1945
Reference No.
CK 2077
Movement No.
9’597’723
Case No.
396
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 33.3 CHRO, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Omega leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Provenance Phillips, Geneva, START-STOP-RESET: 88 EPIC STAINLESS STEEL CHRONOGRAPHS, May 14, 2016, lot 7. Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900 Accessories Accompanied by presentation box and an Extract from the Archives confrming the date of production of the present watch on September 28, 1945 and delivery to the French Colonies.
The Omega CK 2077 collection was frst launched in 1937, and was the frm’s frst water resistant chronograph. The present example is ftted with a highly unusual, yet intriguing dial design, most notably highlighted by a completely luminous hour ring that contrasts powerfully against the glossy black dial. Whereas normally the hour markers are luminous, on this incredible piece we see the hours painted in black on top of the luminous ring. Additionally, along the outer edge of the dial is a copper-colored tachometer scale, while the inner part of the hour ring features a silver-colored telemeter scale. The masculine proportions of this 38mm chronograph retain sharp edges throughout the case and excellent defnition to the bezel and lugs. Underneath its screw down case back resides Omega’s manually wound caliber 33.3 chronograph movement. According to the Extract from the Archives, this example from 1945 was delivered to the French Colonies, and has managed to survive 70 years with hardly any signs of wear. Preserved in excellent overall condition, the watch’s highly legible aesthetics in conjunction with the remarkable historical lineage of this incredible piece is sure to impress those who bestow their eyes upon it. It is testament of its overall quality and appeal the fact that the present timepiece was selected to be part of the highly curated and restricted “Start-Stop-Reset” Phillips thematic sale centred on outstanding chronograph timepieces.
OMEGA Ref. CK 2077 “START-STOP-RESET”
23.
A very rare and extremely well-preserved diver’s automatic wristwatch with black gloss luminous dial and bakelite revolving bezel
Manufacturer
Blancpain
Year
Circa 1955
Case No.
4085
Model Name
Fify Fathoms, Aqua-Lung
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1361N, 17 jewels, stamped “FOG”
Bracelet/Strap
Nato strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,900-51,900 €23,700-47,400
Blancpain’s Fify Fathoms model is widely recognised for its historical signifcance as being the frst ‘modern’ diver’s wristwatch with a rotating bezel, released in 1953. The story of its origin is well-known, rooted in solving the needs of an elite branch of the French Navy – the Service de Documentation Extérieure et de Contre-Espionnage – tasked with underwater espionage and other covert operations. The head of this unit was Captain Bob Maloubier, and he personally sketched out the design for what would one day be the Blancpain Fify Fathoms. Very large for the time (42 mm), expensive and with a limited
audience (basically, only professional divers), the watch was regarded with much suspicion by most brands approached for its manufacture. The CEO of Blancpain - Mr. Jean-Jacques Fiechter - was however an avid diver, and agreed to produce the watch, thus began the history of this iconic model. While the watch is today known as Fify Fathoms, a number of diferent names can be found on the dials of early specimens. This is due to the commercialisation strategy adopted for the watch. Two main suppliers were used: Spirotechnique - dealing mostly with military forces - and the civilian scuba diving gear supplier Aqua Lung - dealing with civilian clients. The present Blancpain Aqua-Lung bears an early case number and the beautiful 12 / 3 / 6 / 9 dial layout typical of Fify Fathoms and Aqua-Lung of the era, with pufy luminous material that has aged beautifully over time, an exceptionally well-preserved case, and a perfectly intact Bakelite bezel. Perfectly correct for an early, pre-1960s example, the luminous material is radium. Furthermore, the inner caseback features the designation “Patent-pending” which classifes the present example as one of the very earliest specimens, realised when the patent was still in the process of being granted.
B L A N C PA I N Fifty Fathoms Aqua-Lung
24.
A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with red central chronograph minute hand
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1946
Reference No.
5699
Movement No.
6’964’484
Case No.
54, batch no.: 23’086
Model Name
“Doppia Lancetta”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal 13ZN, 17 jewels, stamped “LXW”
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Longines Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale on August 12, 1946 to the company Longines-Wittnauer, Longines’ USA distributor at the time.
In 1936, Longines developed and patented what would become their most famous movement: Caliber 13ZN. This chronograph movement was the most elaborate of its time and was available in various versions featuring a 30 or 60 minute counter and one or two pushers. The present reference 5699, bearing this prestigious caliber, displays a very specifc and highly sought-afer element. The watch features two central chronograph hands and is referred to amongst collector as the “Doppia Lancetta”, meaning “two hands” in English. These two centrally mounted hands are not to be mistaken for a split seconds feature; they rather serve to record the seconds and the minutes hence leading to the suppression of the minutes register. Produced for the American market, the movement of this watch is stamped with the Longines-Wittnauer import code: LXW. A noteworthy element to mention is Longines’ specifc numbering system where the case number was repeated on the upper lef lug, in this case 54. Reference 5699 further surprises by its considerable case size, measuring a dramatic 39.5mm in diameter. Rarely seen on the market, this “Doppia Lancetta” impresses not only by its size and presence but also represents tremendous value for the wise collector of vintage wristwatches.
LONGINES Ref. 5699 “Doppia Lancetta”
25.
ZENITH — A very well preserved and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Guarantee
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
AH271
Case No.
886A391
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 146 D, jeweled
Bracelet/Strap
Zenith alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Zenith pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 ∑ $4,200-6,200 €3,800-5,700 Accessories Accompanied by Zenith blank Guarantee card. Furthermore delivered with Zenith Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with “slate grey dial” in this exact confguration between August 1967 and January 1968.
Upon frst glance of this superb timepiece, even the most novice collector will recognise its outstanding condition. While “New Old Stock” might be an overused term in the industry, the present watch truly deserves such a designation; it arrives at Phillips afer a 50 year journey though time in absolutely unspoiled, unworn condition, still retaining the blue factory lacquer to the case back.
Produced between 1967 and 1968, the present piece is representative of chronograph reference AH271 (the H in the reference designates man’s model and stands for “homme”). The model was made in two versions: one with silver dial, and the present one which features an incredibly attractive blue/ ardoise dial (described by Zenith catalogue as “gris foncé”: slate grey). Unsurprisingly, the market at the time was much more receptive of the more classic silvered version, and as a consequence, the blue/grey version was produced in much smaller number. Its rarity combined with its attractiveness and condition make the present piece an unmissable opportunity for the collector of fne vintage timepieces.
26.
ZENITH — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with matte black dial, rotating bezel, luminous Arabic hour markers, made for A. Cairelli Roma
Manufacturer
Zenith
Year
Circa 1970
Case No.
202’583
Model Name
“Cairelli CP-2”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 146DP, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel unsigned buckle
Dimensions
43mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, caseback further engraved “Cronometro Tipo CP-2 A. Cairelli-Roma”
Estimate CHF 7,000-14,000 $7,300-14,500 €6,600-13,300
Considering that the present Zenith Tipo CP-2 is a military issued timepiece, we can only be impressed by its superlative state of preservation. With its large 43mm. case size, black dial with large Arabic numerals and military background, not to mention its overall good looks, the Zenith “A. Cairelli” Tipo CP-2 (Cronometro da Polsa Tipo 2 meaning wristwatch type 2) has become a highly coveted chronograph. From the 1960s to 1970s the Italian Air Force, the Aeronautica Militare Italiana (AMI) commissioned Zenith to make a special wristwatch for its members. It is believed that approximately 2,500 examples were made. The Tipo CP-2 were all supplied through A. Cairelli, the prominent Roman retailer of watches, clocks, and mechanical instruments. Designed for AMI’s pilots for mission use, many were not issued due to an abrupt cancellation by the AMI. A. Cairelli sold the remaining stock – all without military issue numbers on their casebacks – privately to civilians. The present watch is therefore a rare military-issued version, illustrated by the engraving on this caseback, reading “AMI CRONOMETRO TIPO CP-2 MM 202583” Housing a high grade, hand-wound movement, the caliber 146, this historically signifcant chronograph remains in excellent overall condition. Combined with its masculine presence, military provenance, and eye-catching dial, it’s a superb timepiece for any vintage watch enthusiast. It is furthermore accompanied by a custom-made Attila Aszodi bund strap that further enhances its good looks.
27.
ROLEX — A rare and fne stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, 24-hour indication, Mark I dial, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No.
1655
Movement No.
D305080
Case No.
3’182’880
Model Name
Explorer II, “Freccione”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “220” and “7836”, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp,
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp
stamped “2 72”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee stamped by London retailer Watches of Switzerland LTD and dated September 21, 1974, service papers documenting two services one in 1978 and one in 2011, product literature, green document holder, Rolex service plastic bag, ftted presentation box and outer packaging
The Explorer II appeared in Rolex catalogs in 1971 as the reference 1655. The introduction of the new model was a signifcant milestone for Rolex. Instead of a refned upgrade of the Explorer, the Explorer II is a completely unique watch of its own. Featuring a 24-Hour calibrated bezel, the purpose was to provide speleologists to diferentiate between night and day in tremendous caving expeditions. Whilst referred by collectors as “freccione” which translates to “big arrow”, indicating the oversized and neon-like orange center hand, a feature intended to further facilitate the reading of the 24-hour cycle in low light conditions (such as can be found, indeed, in caves). The reference 1655 was produced in fve diferent variations (marks) and with two known additional service dials (one with tritium and the other with luminova). The present example is ftted with a Mark I dial and further accompanied by the full set of accessories that came with the watch when it was purchased. As Mark I dials represent the frst iteration of the design and are furthermore scarcer than later examples, they are considered more appealing and collectible. Mark I dials can be found in cases bearing serial numbers between 2.5M and 3.5M.
28.
ROLEX — A fne and very well-preserved stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1983
Reference No.
1016
Movement No.
D609664
Case No.
8’066’759
Model Name
Explorer
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78360” and “580” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “H”
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
and “78360”
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,400-15,600 €9,500-14,200
One of the greatest classics in the entire history of Rolex, the Explorer is the simplest among the frm’s sport models, a cornerstone of sorts from which the entire line of Oyster-cased models (Daytona, GMT, Milgauss, Submariner...) blossoms. The present example belongs to reference 1016, arguably the last “old school” Explorer model. Featuring an immaculate matte dial whose luminous material has acquired a warm hue with age, the piece was produced in 1983, in the last decade of its 41-year production run, from its introduction in 1959 to the model’s discontinuation in 1990.
29.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with caramel “tropical” registers, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1994
Reference No.
16520
Movement No.
114’284
Case No.
W049850
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated November 9, 1999, product literature, wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most innovative models ever produced. Housing the iconic Zenith-based caliber 4030 mechanism, the model was ftted with the frst automatic chronograph movement in the frm’s history. At the time of launch in 1988, it quickly became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. Today, the Zenith Daytona has become an even more collectible watch due to its rarity, good looks and importance within the history of Rolex. The present example, preserved in excellent condition is part of an elite and incredibly sought afer subsection of the Zenith Daytona models featuring charismatic subsidiary registers that have turned “tropical” over time. This “tropical” efect mainly occurs on Cosmograph dials produced during the early to mid1990s. This example furthermore retains its original guarantee stating that the watch was retailed by Attar Jeddah, which is correct for the guarantee’s country code “532” indicating Saudi Arabia. Even the ftted presentation box is correct as it still retains the “16520” sticker on the side.
RO L E X Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical”
30.
A fne and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “sigma dial” and bracelet, made for the Peruvian Air Force
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1976
Reference No.
6263
Case No.
4’049’273
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “FAP”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “571” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “H”
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
and “783350”
Estimate CHF 50,000-80,000 Ό $51,900-83,000 €47,400-75,900
One of the highest echelons of Rolex collecting is represented by military timepieces, which encompass watches made for the armed forces of a country. The company is known to have at some point in time worked with numerous armed forces or military organizations, including the English Navy, Italian Police, and of course the Peruvian Air Force - as in the case of the present timepiece. Watches made for the Fuerza Aerea Del Perú - or FAP - are today extremely elusive not only in virtue of their intrinsic rarity, but also because of the heavy usage they underwent which implies many pieces were simply lost, and many others were heavily refurbished. While the most obvious characteristic of FAP timepieces is the engraving to the caseback, there are two other traits that defne these watches. One is that the serial number - all or part of it - has to be present on the inside of the caseback, thus linking together case body and caseback. The other is a much subtler detail, and ofen lost due to the reasons mentioned above; on the opposite side of the back from where the FAP engraving is, these watches present an extremely lightly engraved military issue number. So light is this engraving that even a gentle polishing would irremediably erase it. Only a meager percentage of FAP watches still retain this number today, and this piece is indeed one of them, the number 617 still totally readable on the back. A fnal addition to the historical appeal of this military piece is given by the fact that the original owner “Ricardo Gutierrez Rivas” personally hand-engraved his name on the back, thus immortalising the original owner of the watch for posterity.
RO L E X Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Fuerza Aerea Del Perú”
31.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box, made for the Peruvian Air Force
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1973
Reference No.
1680 inside caseback stamped with repeated serial number 3’740’512
Movement No.
D’592’133
Case No.
3’740’512
Model Name
Red Submariner “FAP”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped C
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-80,000 $51,900-83,000 €47,400-75,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, wallet and presentation box.
A superlative example, the present watch is one of probably only a handful of Red Submariners delivered to the Peruvian Air Force that still retains its original guarantee and presentation box. While it is commonly known that the Peruvian Air Force ordered a number of Cosmograph Daytonas during the 1970s, they had also requested an exceedingly small number of Submariners during this period. Its state of preservation is absolutely remarkable. Displaying thick bevels, crisp edges and sharp engravings, the present watch is a marvel indeed. The caseback, like all “FAP” watches displays “Fuerza Aérea del Perú” as well as the three digit code “104” on the bottom. Most of these three digit numbers have been rubbed out with general wear, yet this one remains evident. It is interesting to note that there is a small hole on the outer case back, near the “teeth”. This hole was used to secure the case back when Rolex stamped the markings. Furthermore, the inside case back is stamped with a repeated inside case back number, another sign of a special order watch. The dial is also preserved in excellent and extremely attractive condition. The luminous dots have aged evenly with the hands, and now display warm patina. Furthermore, all the graphics remain intact and vivid. While it is an incredibly rare opportunity to handle such a distinguished timepiece, it’s even more extraordinary to have the opportunity to acquire one.
RO L E X Ref. 1680 Submariner “Fuerza Aérea del Perú”
32.
A highly rare, important and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “explorer” dial and bracelet
The present watch represents a stunning discovery in the world of horology. Coming fresh to the auction market, it was just recently unearthed in a souk on the streets of Cairo, Egypt and is preserved in absolutely “barn fnd” condition. Having spent many years untouched, it wins the “preservation class” award on all levels and is a superlative Submariner in incredibly honest and original condition. It is furthermore testament to the fact that jewels can still be hidden for many years and found in the most unassuming of places despite the rise of social media and the internet. Introduced at the 1954 Basel Fair, the Submariner was Rolex’s version of a water-resistant dive watch. While references 6204 and 6205 were water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, the more robust reference 6200 ofered water resistance up to a depth of 200 meters. This model was nicknamed the “Big Crown” due to its oversized 8-millimeter “Brevet” crown that enabled cutting-edge water resistance. Of all reference 6200s, the most iconic variant is without a doubt one with an “Explorer” 3-6-9 dial like the present watch. Production numbers of the “Explorer Submariner” were extremely limited and their serial numbers range from 31.9xx to around 32.2xx. With a serial number of 32’258, the present watch is actually 10 digits away from an almost identical example found from descendants of the original owner in Scandinavia and sold at Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE. It is incredible how two watches, both made and cased probably on the same day, eventually traveled to opposite ends of the globe. This reference 6200 ticks all the boxes for the passionate collector. Boasting a large 37.5mm case, it displays a highly desirable “Explorer” 3-6-9 lacquer dial. Most interestingly, this particular model has the “Submariner” script above 6 o’clock, making it a particularly rare variant as most known examples do not display writing on the dial. No more than a few correct examples are known in this confguration, underscoring the rarity of this timepiece.
RO L E X Ref. 6200 Submariner “Big Crown”
32.
A highly rare, important and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “explorer” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1954
Reference No.
6200
Movement No.
27’101
Case No.
32’258
Model Name
Submariner “Big Crown”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. A296, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $259,000-519,000 €237,000-474,000
Displaying thick bevels and incredible proportions, this Submariner displays a very impressive case. It retains its original Brevet crown. Furthermore, the dial is preserved in extremely attractive condition with barely any losses to the luminous material, which has aged evenly to a beautiful warm hue. The dial has not been altered throughout its life (which is a marvel in itself as many existing examples today have been “touched up” at least once during its lifespan), and the gilt graphics shine through beautifully. The inside caseback bears only one service mark - it is possible that this is the only intervention the watch has seen throughout its lifetime. Used throughout its lifetime, this timepiece (like many of its kind) lost its bezel insert somewhere along its life. In order to preserve the integrity of the timepiece, the consigner and Phillips have decided to ofer the following timepiece as the same manner as it was found - without a new insert and with a broken bracelet. Instead, a new-old-stock period correct bezel has been painstakingly sourced and is available for purchase upon winning this timepiece at auction.
RO L E X Ref. 6200 Submariner “Big Crown�
Lot 32: The watch is shown here with a period correct bezel, sourced and made available for purchase by the winner bidder. Please note that this bezel is not included in this lot.
33.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A lovely and elegant yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds and two-tone sector dial
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
1956
Reference No.
6126
Movement No.
523’510
Case No.
350’138
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal.1002, 17 jewels, stamped “VXN”
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
32mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 2,000-3,000 $2,100-3,100 €1,900-2,800 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confrming production of this watch in 1956.
The present timepiece will enthrall the beholder with its absolutely honest and superior condition, and with its highly attractive and unusual dial confguration. Featuring a two-tone sectorial design with a gilt centre and outer track separated by a silvered sector, the watch is furthermore engraved/enamelled: the signature has frst been etched into the dial plate, then the etching has been flled with enamel powder, and fnally the dial has been cooked in a kiln so that the enamel melts down and vitrify. Extremely expensive to make - so much that nowadays no brand makes dials in this fashion anymore - engraved/ enamelled dials are from a quality standpoint the pinnacle of dial construction.
34.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very elegant and classic yellow gold wristwatch with two-tone dial and tear drop lugs
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1945
Reference No.
1509
Movement No.
926’768
Case No.
637’423
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12’’’120, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-12,000 $7,300-12,500 €6,600-11,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with “silvered dial, raised gold hour markers” in 1945 and its subsequent sale on February 9, 1946.
Patek Philippe reference 1509 was launched in 1940 and remained in production until the early 1950s. It is a twin model to reference 1503. While the former is realised in precious metal, the latter was made exclusively in steel or steel-andgold. It is unknown why in this instance Patek Philippe decided to adopt diferent references for diferent case materials, straying away from their usual path. Its 35mm diameter is quite generous for the time - the contemporary “classic” Patek Philippe dress watch ref. 96 measuring 33mm.
The thin bezel amplifes the apparent size of the piece, and leaves the dial as the undisputed protagonist of the design, thus in this model the dial condition is of paramount importance. In this blessed instance, the piece features an absolutely unrestored and very well preserved two-tone dial with outer railway baton fve-minute divisions combined with dot minute divisions. It is a more unusual twist to the railway Arabic fve-minute divisions combined with baton ffh-of-asecond divisions ofen seen in the 1940s. The scale is rendered in a diferent tone than the rest of the dial, highlighting the “framing” efect of the railway style. Overall, the dial aesthetics is at the same time airy and refned, somehow reminiscent of the later clean dials of the 1950s-70s, but at the same time also of earlier Bauhaus-style dials designed in the 1920s. The entirety of the graphics is perfectly preserved and engraved/enamelled. The keen eye will notice the presence of a “long” Patek Philippe & Co. signature - as expected from a watch made in 1945 - retaining the delicate comma between “Patek” and “Philippe” and accent of Genève - details ofen lost to time. The case is a hymn to simplicity, with the teardrop lugs being a striking defning feature and furthermore a style rarely employed by the brand. A superbly elegant timepiece with timeless charme, its exquisite aesthetics will please the novice collector as well as the most hardcore horological connoisseur.
35.
A rare and extremely elegant stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch, retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1962
Reference No.
3417
Movement No.
731’240
Case No.
2’618’294
Model Name
Amagnetic
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27AM400, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400
soon followed by other renowned Swiss brands such as Patek Philippe wishing to ofer their clients an accurate timepiece that would resist strong magnetic felds. A number of features make Patek Philippe’s vintage anti-magnetic wristwatches highly coveted. The movement is shielded from magnetism with a sof-iron inner case, designed to resist magnetic felds up to 450 oersteds. By necessity, the case is designed for maximum robustness using stainless steel and ftted with a screwdown, water-resistant caseback. Aside from its technical interest, the design of the 3417 is a pure marvel of elegance and refnement. Simply decorated with white gold baton indexes extended by baton hands and complemented by a style matching the elongated 12, the linear Art Deco scheme of the dial is cleverly enhanced by the hand script font of the word Amagnetic.
Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1962 and its subsequent sale on March 12, 1962.
This fresh-to-the-market example is part of a very few privileged pieces that were sold by the famous Swiss retailer Gübelin as only six reference 3417 with the Gübelin signature have appeared on the market so far.
Before the launch of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe only produced two references that were only available in stainless steel: reference 3418 and 3417. Both launched in 1958 with an antimagnetic caliber 12-400, they were upgraded with caliber 27AM400 as of early 60s.
Originally based in Lucerne, Gübelin is known for drawing a line inside the caseback of the watches sold through their premises to indicate the date of purchase and to allow a record of service history. As one could expect, this watch displays this mark.
The need for anti-magnetic wristwatches started in the mid1950s, with brands such as Rolex being commissioned by the CERN to produce a watch for their scientists. The trend was
The excellent overall condition of the case and the dial of the present watch tick every box of the demanding collector!
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3417 Amagnetic “Gübelin”
36.
An unusual, rare and very fne white gold cushion-shape automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with 24-hour indication, moonphases, black dial with Breguet numerals, additional case back, certifcate and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2015
Reference No.
5940G
Movement No.
5’921’372
Case No.
6’021’513
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240Q, 27 jewels, stamped with the
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Length, 37mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Patek Philippe Seal
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 ∙ $25,900-51,900 €23,700-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated September 2015, numbered factory sleeve, additional case back, product literature, leather wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 2012 in white gold, reference 5940 is the successor to reference 5040. These two models ofered an option to Patek Philippe clients looking for a perpetual calendar with moonphases (one of the brand’s most appreciated complications) in a diferent case shape than the standard round one. Originally ofered in yellow gold, the white gold version was introduced in 2014 but with a silvery white dial. The present black dial version was released the following year. Boasting a strong Art Deco infuence, the model is defned by its cushion-shape case with the dial amplifying the old-school vibe of the timepiece thanks to the Breguet numerals. Another detail - much less obvious - brings to mind to the Belle Epoque with the date ring featuring unusually a Dauphine style font more typical of the 1920s. Ofered by its original owner and complete with all its original accessories, the present watch is a remarkable ofer for connoisseurs of fne timepieces.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5940G
37.
A very rare and well‐preserved white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphase indication, German calendar, setting pin and presentation box.
Reference 3448 is a landmark model in the history of Patek Philippe. It was the frm’s frst self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch which is remarkable as it remains one of the very few complicated models which Patek Philippe kept producing even during the quartz crisis of the 1970s; it was in fact made from 1961 to 1981 when it was retired in favour of its sibling reference 3450 (very similar, with some minor diferences in the case construction and with the leap year indication). Nicknamed the “Padellone” by Italian collectors, the reference is adored by collectors for its oversized 37.5 mm diameter case with clean, angular lines and dial with perfect harmony and symmetry. The present example, from the family of the original owner, is an extremely rare version in white gold of which only 60 examples are known. Adding extra rarity is the calendar in German of which only 3 are known (the calendar indications being traditionally in French and English). The design of the watch is both futuristic in aspect yet taking cues from the 1960s with its short downturned angled lugs, large dial opening and beautiful dial with hard enamel signature.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3448 “Original Family Padellone”
37.
A very rare and well‐preserved white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphase indication, German calendar, setting pin and presentation box.
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1970
Reference No.
3448
Movement No.
1’119’169
Case No.
322’474 caseback further engraved GL
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460Q, 37 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial. movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-300,000 $208,000-311,000 €190,000-284,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe ftted box, setting pin, further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1970 and its subsequent sale on July 12, 1972.
The movement is based on what is universally recognized as one of the greatest - if not the greatest - automatic movement ever designed: cal. 27-460 (which is the fnal evolution of historical cal. 12-600AT), upgraded of course with a perpetual movement to become cal. 27-460Q (Q for Quantième). Fresh to the market and from the family of the original owner, the present reference 3448 remains in very appealing condition with sharp hallmarks beneath the lugs and crisp raised hard enamel signature on the dial.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3448 “Original Family Padellone”
Jean-Claude Biver A mover, shaker, disruptor and marketing genius, Jean-Claude Biver has had his fngers frmly on the pulse of his era and has almost singlehandedly redefned the horological landscape of the past 40 years. A man whose brains are behind the meteoric rise of some of the most iconic luxury watch brands in the industry, Mr. Biver helped build, infuence and cement the destiny of watch brands such as Blancpain, Omega, Hublot and more recently Tag Heuer and Zenith. He now serves as Non-Executive President of LVMH’s Group Watch Division. Not only an industry titan but a collector of extreme acuity, taste and knowledge he has been collecting watches for decades now, especially Patek Philippe and in the course of
this period he has amassed one of the greatest and most curated of Patek Philippe collections. The four timepieces we are honored to sell have in common their historical relevance, superb state of preservation and utter rarity. In the following pages you will see an impressive ref 96HU worldtime from 1937 pre-series prototype (Lot 64) of which only two are known, the second one now part of the Patek Philippe museum, a superb reference 1518 in pink gold with even rarer pink dial (Lot 38), an incredibly rare reference 2499 second series in yellow gold (Lot 155) and one of only 3 known platinum reference 1579 (lot 214).
38.
A highly rare, exceptionally well-preserved and attractive pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with pink dial and moonphases
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 1518 “Pink on Pink”
38.
A highly rare, exceptionally well-preserved and attractive pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with pink dial and moonphases
Very likely one of the greatest and best preserved pink gold reference 1518s in existence, the present watch is a spectacular example in many ways. Known and spoken-about with mythical lore among even the most seasoned of collectors, the present timepiece represents a “once-in-a-lifetime” opportunity to acquire the best example of one of the rarest Patek Philippe variants to ever exist. Having originally appeared at auction in 2011, it exceeded its original auction estimate by leaps and bounds when it frst came on the market. Before its appearance at auction in 2011, it had remained with the same Swiss family since its purchase in 1950 at Patek Philippe’s Geneva boutique. Thus, this watch can be considered one of the most “trustworthy” pink on pink reference 1518s to ever appear on the market, having resided in only two collections during its lifetime. Pink gold reference 1518s were most ofen ftted with a silvered dial. It was only on very rare occasions that they were ftted with pink dials. So rare is this variant that only 13 examples of reference 1518 are known with a pink dial, making it one of the rarest and most exclusive complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches for a collector to acquire. Moreover, the present watch displays special blued steel hour and minute hands apparently a special request from the original owner who was said to have required better legibility, making the present watch quite unique.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 1518 “Pink on Pink”
38.
A highly rare, exceptionally well-preserved and attractive pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with pink dial and moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1948
Reference No.
1518
Movement No.
867’525
Case No.
653’822
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle stamped PPCo
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Provenance Private collection of Jean-Claude Biver Estimate CHF 1,200,000-2,400,000 $1,250,000-2,490,000 €1,140,000-2,280,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with raised hour markers in rose gold and caseback engraved initials in 1948 and its subsequent sale on 6 January 1950.
Its superlative state of preservation is highly noteworthy. The dial is preserved in stunning condition and has aged remarkably over time. Reference 1518 dials are notorious for tarnishing heavily due the model’s snap-on bezel and caseback, which allowed moisture to seep through. However, this particular dial has aged beautifully. There is barely a spot or any signs of tarnishing, and the dial has aged to a particularly attractive warm rose-colored tone. The enamel signature remains thick and defned, with the accent above the “e” in “Genève” strong and present. The aperture windows at 12 o’clock are sharp and crisp, their defnition and crisp edges attesting to the dial’s purity. The case is also preserved in breathtaking condition, displaying contrasting satin and polished fnishes. The hallmark on the caseband is crisp, defned and sharp, as is the second hallmark on the side of the case. Truly a monumental model, reference 1518 was the frst perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced in series when it was introduced in 1941. According to research, only 281 examples were manufactured until the reference ceased production in 1954. It paved the way for successors references 2499, 3970, 5970 and fnally, 5270, which features an in-house movement.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 1518 “Pink on Pink”
39.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A rare, stunning and extremely elegant pink gold wristwatch with center seconds, hack feature and Gay Frères bracelet
Manufacturer
Vacheron Constantin
Year
Circa 1950
Reference No.
6111
Movement No.
537’123
Case No.
376’144
Model Name
Chronomètre Royal
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. P1008/BS, 19 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Gay Frères for Vacheron Constantin
with the Geneva Seal bracelet, max length 185mm Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Gay Frères for Vacheron Constantin
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker;
clasp stamped “1 60”
clasp further signed Gay Feres Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,400-15,600 €9,500-14,200 Accessories Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives.
Almost every signifcant watch brand has an iconic watch that collectors adore, from the Reverso to the Submariner. Vacheron Constantin is probably best known for its Chronomètre Royal. “Chronomètre Royal Vacheron Constantin Genève” became a registered trademark on May 28th, 1907 when the frst pocketwatch bearing this prestigious name was presented. Thereafer, the name was used on only those ftted with a chronometer certifed movement, featuring improved accuracy and the overall superior fnish. One feature of the present movement connected to the chronometer designation is quite apparent even at frst glance with the massive lever which goes from the crown entry point to the balance wheel enabling the hack feature. When the crown is pulled, the lever pivots and brings the minuscule metal blade at its end in contact with the rim of the balance wheel, thus stopping the movement. This remarkable example of reference 6111 is distinguished not only by its impressive overall condition - featuring a very sharp case and a fawless dial - but also by the presence of the luxurious bracelet made by arguably the most important bracelet maker of the past century: Gay Frères. It adds immense gravitas to the overall ensemble and boosts the present timepiece to a higher level of collectability.
40.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A fne and very rare yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds, luminous dial and screw back
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1953
Reference No.
2508
Movement No.
702’750
Case No.
676’453
Model Name
Calatrava étanche
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal 27SC, 18 jewels, stamped “HOX” and
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe leather strap
twice with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
34.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,400-15,600 €9,500-14,200 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1953 with radium and raised gold indexes and its subsequent sale on December 1, 1953.
Launched in 1951, reference 2508 was quite a large timepiece, considering the fashion of the time. Boasting a 35.5mm case, the watch was intended for a more intensive and professional use than the usual Patek Philippe dress watch, even featuring a screw-down case back, enabling the watch to be water resistant - a feature found in a small minority of
the vintage Patek Philippe production. Reference 2508 most notably features center seconds thanks to calibre 27SC (SC for Secondes au Centre), unarguably one of the most appreciated vintage manually-wound center seconds calibers made by any manufacturer (and the base for the movements used in some of the most hallowed complicated Patek Philippe vintage pieces such as ref. 2497). The present example is fresh to the market and ofered by a distinguished Swiss lady. The watch was treated with utmost respect throughout its entire life and has only recently undergone a conservative restoration at Patek Philippe which brought both case and dial back to their original splendour. The presence of luminous numerals - confrmed by the Patek Philippe archives - is an additional layer of appeal for the connoisseur of fne timepieces.
41.
A very rare, well-preserved and most attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1955
Reference No.
1463
Movement No.
868’812
Case No.
686’397
Model Name
“Tasti Tondi”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle stamped PPCo
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $208,000-415,000 €190,000-379,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1955 and its subsequent sale on December 13, 1956.
Reference 1463 is one of the most popular vintage chronograph wristwatches on the market today. The model is even more favored than it was at the time of production, due to its robust case proportions and oversized chronograph pushers. Along with the elusive reference 1563, it was the only serially produced vintage chronograph model manufactured by Patek Philippe that was ftted with a water-resistant case and round chronograph pushers. The model was a “sportier” alternative to the less robust reference 130. Previously unknown and fresh to the auction market, the present watch is an exceedingly well-preserved example. Displaying a hallmark on the caseband and another beneath the lug, the watch exhibits powerful lugs and a robust case. The dial is also preserved in excellent condition with raised enamel graphics that do not display any losses. The watch is furthermore ftted with a dial of the last generation, recognizable by its baton markers and lack of railroad track on the outer register. This dial lends the watch a more masculine, modern look. Overall, we only know of one other pink gold reference 1463 that features the current dial confguration. Pink gold is particularly rare case metal. To date, no more than 64 examples cased in this material have appeared on the market, underscoring the absolute rarity of the present timepiece.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
Day-Date and Datejust The story of the Day-Date and Datejust is forever ingrained in the history of Rolex. Both fagship models, they are among the most diverse and interesting models that the manufacture has ever produced. Not only aesthetically spectacular, both models also represent immense strides within the history of watchmaking. Rolex released its very frst Datejust, reference 4467, in 1945 to celebrate the frm’s 40th anniversary. Fitted with a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the watch featured an Oyster case, “Bubble Back” movement and “coin edge” bezel. At the time of production, the DateJust was the world’s frst automatic chronometer wristwatch to display the date on the dial. The now-iconic Jubilee bracelet was specially designed for the model. Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was at the time the frst chronometer wristwatch model to display the day and date on separate apertures on the dial. An ever-changing chameleon, the Day-Date is one of the most diverse Rolex models ever produced. Indeed, Rolex itself states the following regarding this model: “The exceptional precision, reliability, legibility and presence of this prestigious model has made it the ultimate status watch.” Furthermore, the model was ftted with 26 diferent languages. Its distinctive appearance, coupled with advertising from the period and appearance on the wrist of many world leaders has lead to its moniker the “Presidents’ Watch”. Typically cased in yellow, pink, or white gold, the model has featured a diverse range of designs over the years, such as the ‘bark’ fnished motif, or the ‘Florentine’ and ‘Morellis’ pattern. Rolex has ofen publicly stated that the Day-Date was only cased in precious metals such as yellow gold, pink gold, white gold or platinum. The models have both been ftted with a plethora of dials, ranging from those set with delicate hard stone, to ones heavily embellished with gemstones and even stunning, rich shades of lacquer.
In a nutshell – both models are perfection personifed. Phillips is delighted to ofer one of its most expansive selections of Day-Dates and Datejusts ever within a various owner sale. With over 20 examples, the possibilities and combinations are endless. From the “Octopussy” variant, to an extremely early platinum example with a glossy dial, to a stunning reference 18038 with a taxicab yellow “Stella” dial and even hardstone variants (such as lapis lazuli, onyx and even rubellite), there is something for everyone – including even the most seasoned and experienced of collectors. Key Moments for the Day-Date 1955 The “Day-Date” patent is registered prior to the release of the model. The name was ofcially registered on July 23, 1955. 1956 The Day-Date is launched at the 1956 International Basel Fair. Bearing the reference number 6511, it most notably features a futed bezel. The “President” bracelet is also introduced alongside the Day-Date model. 1957 The reference 6511 is replaced by reference 6611, which features an improved caliber 1055, allowing the model to obtain a “COSC” certifcation. 1959 Reference 1803 is launched, and is one of Rolex’s longestrunning references in production. 1977 A sapphire crystal is introduced to the Day-Date line. The new model bears the reference number 18000. The caliber 1556 is now upgraded to the caliber 3055, which introduced the quick date mechanism. Furthermore, balance speed is increased from 19,800 vph to 28,800 vph. 1977 Rolex introduces a new model ftted with a quartz movement and names it the “Oysterquartz”. 1988 The double quick set calendar is introduced with the caliber 3155. 2008 Rolex releases the Day-Date II as a modern update. 2019 Rolex released the Day-Date 36, which displays a new case size and is available in 18K yellow, white or Everose gold. Key Moments for the Datejust 1945 The Datejust is ofcially launched in 1945 to commemorate Rolex’s 40th anniversary. Bearing the reference number 4467, it most notably features a futed bezel. The “Jubilee” bracelet is also introduced alongside the Datejust model. It displays the A.295 movement which eventually would be phased out. 1954 to 1955 Rolex adds a Cyclops lens to the model, ensuring easier legibility. Mid 1950s Rolex begins to phase out their “bubble back” oyster cases, as the manufacture designed the caliber 1065 that allowed a fatter caseback. This movement can be found in reference 6605 and 6604. Late 1950s Around this time, reference 1601 was also introduced. 1977 A sapphire crystal is introduced to the Datejust line. The new model bears the reference number 17000. 2009 Rolex releases the Datejust II as a modern update.
42.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, lapis lazuli dial, bracelet and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
1601
Movement No.
D’043’369
Case No.
4’200’996
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-24,000 $12,500-24,900 €11,400-22,800 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex box and product literature.
Launched in 1945, the Rolex Datejust is one of the most iconic models ever created. Its futed bezel is instantly recognizable upon a glance, and is still deeply ingrained in the DNA of modern Rolex watches today. Rolex in particular excels in using hard stone. The manufacture has elevated its dress watches with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even fossil, providing an unusual design twist to classic models. This beautifully preserved reference 1601 features a stunning lapis lazuli dial. This very example is particularly rich and saturated in tone, with slight copper and gold fecks throughout. No two hardstone dials are exactly the same in appearance, as they are naturally occurring materials. The present example does not display any cracks on the dial, and is preserved in excellent condition. Furthermore, the case is also presented in crisp condition, with sharp and deep hallmarks beneath the lugs.
43.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with onyx dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1986
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
1’637’484
Case No.
9’186’942
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold and onyx
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-24,000 $12,500-24,900 €11,400-22,800
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. Since its inception in 1956, it remains one of the most surprising and diverse fagship models Rolex has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamour and prestige. Ofered in absolutely crisp and unspoiled condition, the present example has possibly never seen polishing throughout its lifetime. It features a charismatic Onyx dial that is defned by its midnight black hue and mirror-like appearance. The material is in perfect contrast with the warm gold case for a powerful aesthetic result, bolstered by the absence of virtually any graphic detail and by the presence of the gold rims to the day and date window, subtly recalling the gold case.
44.
A highly rare and attractive white gold calendar wristwatch with green “Stella” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1980
Reference No.
18039
Movement No.
0’573’510
Case No.
6’739’148
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $15,600-31,100 €14,200-28,400
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. Among the most collectible of all Day-Dates are ones ftted with lacquer “Stella” dials. Translucent yet vibrant, “Stella” dials ofer so much exclusivity to the wearer, as no two are exactly the same in appearance. Rolex adorned their Day-Date watches with a variety of dials, ranging from yellow to mint green. This extremely striking white gold Day-Date displays a beautiful forest green “Stella” dial which showcases a stunning spiderweb efect. Such a lush and rich green color is incredibly rare and attractive. Coupled with the white gold case, the efect is stunning. The case itself is preserved in excellent condition with sharp hallmarks beneath the lugs. The top of the lugs displays a crisp and sharp fnish.
RO L E X Ref. 18039 Day-Date “Te Green Stella”
45.
A rare and attractive white gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
1804
Movement No.
D’D11’337
Case No.
1’236’713
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1555, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400
This superlative white gold Day-Date displays an elegant silvered dial and also features diamonds on the bezel and the dial. Ofered in excellent and crisp condition, it displays sharp fnishes to the top of the lugs and crisp hallmarks. Reference 1804 most notably displays a diamond-set bezel, denoted by the “4” in the reference number. It displays a plexi crystal and is powered by the Day-Date caliber 1555. White gold Day-Dates are much rarer to come by than their yellow gold counterparts, underscoring the rarity of the present timepiece.
RO L E X Ref. 1804 Day-Date “Jumbo Diamonds”
46.
A rare and attractive pink gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with burnt orange lacquer dégradé dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1977
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
DD’128’390
Case No.
5’061’804
Model Name
Day-Date “Manhattan Sunset”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K pink gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 18,000-25,000 $18,700-25,900 €17,100-23,700 Literature This watch is featured in The Day-Date the Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo Editore, page 298 to 299.
Rolex’s sought afer ‘Stella’ dials were produced from the 1960s to the 1990s and were ftted in cases made of yellow gold, pink gold, white gold or platinum. Since the frm ceased their production, these colorful lacquered Stella dials have now achieved cult status amongst collectors and purists. The present watch is dubbed “Manhattan Sunset” due to its burnt orange dégradé dial. Forever preserved in literature, it is prominently illustrated in “Day-Date, The Presidential Rolex” by Pucci Papaleo Editore. It is preserved in excellent condition, shimmering in a way that only Rolex lacquer dials can. Furthermore, all the luminous remain intact and round, attesting to its untouched state of preservation.
RO L E X Ref. 1803 Day-Date “Manhattan Sunset”
The Independents’ Atelier To extensively paraphrase Rage Against The Machine’s bombastic “Renegades of Funk”, Independent Watchmakers are renegades “from a diferent solar system many galaxies away, they are the force of another creation, a new horological revelation, they are the people with their own philosophies and change the course of history”. For a few seasons now, we have been featuring a section dedicated to the incredible watchmakers who bring us some of the most unusual, famboyant, technically mind boggling and creative watches of the past 30 years. The selection we have the pleasure of presenting you this season ofers collectors and enthusiasts a wide choice that exemplifes the richness and creativity that can be found among independents, and which covers an incredibly large spectrum of styles and movements. From the original Tourbillon and ultra-rare Resonance Souscription watches from FrançoisPaul Journe, to the subtle classical watches from Laurent Ferrier and Kari Voutilainen, from the intensely creative works from Maximilian Büsser, Vianney Halter, De Bethune, Singer Reimagined and Ludovic Ballouard to the value propositions from Habring 2, Thomas Prescher and Ressence. These independent makers have paved a path for themselves with unbridled creativity, technical mastery, genetic codes directly linked to the maker, a lack of marketing spiel, and most importantly, an unquantifable element that infuses soul into their watches. The interest for independent watchmakers does not cease to grow; we are delighted at Phillips Watches if we have contributed, even so slightly, to shining the light on these watchmakers who bring color and excitement to modern watchmaking.
Maria and Richard Habring Laurent Ferrier Maximilian BĂźsser
Rob Dickinson, Marco Borraccino and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht François-Paul Journe Denis Flageollet
Kari Voutilainen
Thomas Prescher
Benoit Mintiens
Vianney Halter
Ludovic Ballouard
47.
An attractive limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with dead beat seconds, guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Habring²
Year
Circa 2018
Case No.
Caseback stamped One of 10
Model Name
Erwin Tribute to WWW
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. A11MS, 21 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm wide 38mm long (ex lugs)
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-5,000 $3,100-5,200 €2,800-4,700 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, certifcate of origin, spare crown, hands and gasket.
Habring² is created by multiple Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award winner, husband and wife team of watchmakers Richard and Maria Habring, who afer having worked for diferent brands set up their workshops in Austria in 2004 concentrating on making timepieces with features and complications rarely found in the market and at an afordable price point. The movement found in the present Erwin was developed by the Habring team and features a delightful dead beat seconds, a mesmerizing complication frst implemented in the midseventeenth century, but not used in wristwatches until the mid-twentieth century. The seconds hand will completely stop as the escapement continues to beat, not moving until one second has elapsed - at which point it will advance to indicate the next second. The cushion shaped case with large Arabic numerals, luminous dots and spade hands is reminiscent of the military pilots watches of the 1940s. Made in only 10 examples, the present Erwin Tribute to WWW was made for a collector group wishing to have a watch specially made for them, WWW standing for Watches, Wine and Wonders.
HABRING2 Erwin Tribute to WWW
48.
A very fne and rare tantalum wristwatch with chrome blue dial, certifcate and presentation box
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2012
Case No.
241CB
Model Name
Chronomètre Bleu
Material
Tantalum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Tantalum F.P. Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by ftted inner and outer boxes, Certifcate of Authenticity, Owner’s Manual, Service Invoice dated December 21, 2016 and cleaning pouch. Literature F.P Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Journe and his oeuvre.
In 2011, when F.P. Journe decided to create an “entry level” timepiece, he went against the current (as usual) by creating a watch that hit the industry with a thunderous bang and immediately hit a sweet spot with collectors. The success was so that to obtain one, collectors had to register on a waiting list…a list that still subsists today. The excitement delivered was through Journe’s innovative approach in creating a case made out of the highly rare and delicate to handle tantalum, with a blue/grey tint perfectly complementing the amazing sheen of the blue chrome dial. The movement is Journe’s caliber 1304 executed in pink gold and displays an equally high standard of execution and fnish witnessed as on all F.P. Journe wristwatches. In excellent condition and ofering a full set, the present Chronomètre Bleu ofers a rare opportunity that should not be passed.
F. P. J O U R N E Chronomètre Bleu
Lorenz Bäumer
Lorenz Bäumer is not only a phenomenally talented jewelry maker and artisan but an erudite watch collector, for him, timepieces are a mix of “engineering, design and history of mankind”. A trained engineer, Bäumer nevertheless was attracted to jewelry, and in 1989 at the age of 24, he set up a shop designing and selling costume jewelry. From there,he rapidly devoted all his time and talent in creating jewelry either under his name or for the great names of Paris’ Place Vendome as well as fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton and Chanel.The Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Decorative Arts Museum) in Paris in recognition of the fnesse and playfulness of Bäumer’s designs has on display seven of his creations in its permanent exhibition. Bäumer and François Paul Journe are both independent creative geniuses and both Parisians, so it was only natural that their paths would cross. They met through a common friend and immediately felt a bond. It was then an obvious step for Journe to contact Bäumer when he was planning on launching his brand and needed fnancial back up by , setting up a subscription system (like Breguet before him) whereby the client would make an initial down payment for the watch sight unseen. “I didn’t know what the watch would look like, I
didn’t know how much it would cost but I knew it would be a tourbillon, and the moment I saw it I fell in love with the watch” says Bäumer. When Journe launched another of his new projects, the Chronomètre à Resonance, he appealed to the original 20 tourbillon backers to subscribe again, , and without hesitation Bäumer agreed to participate. For the Resonance, Bäumer was more hands on. Intrigued by this new project, he wanted to put his own mark and creativity on the design of his new watch. “I wanted to have my personal touch in this second watch” says Bäumer. Both Journe and Bäumer knew how difcult it would be to solder platinum and pink gold but Journe always appreciated a challenge and accepted. The “resonance phenomenon in a wristwatch was such a novel idea, it immediately spoke to the engineer in me” says Bäumer. Bäumer was once again dazzled by the result and was deeply impressed by the amount of intelligence, knowledge and genius that went into the Resonance. “These watches connected me to something I didn’t know too well, which was the art and history of watchmaking, but most of all they connected me to François Paul Journe and receiving these watches was very meaningful to me.”
49.
A very rare limited edition platinum and pink gold dual time wristwatch with double escapement, box and original technical drawings
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2000
Case No.
014/00R
Model Name
Chronomètre à Resonance “Souscription”
Material
Platinum and 18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1499, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum FP Journe pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $83,000-166,000 €75,900-152,000 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, invoice and original technical drawings. Literature F.P Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Journe and his oeuvre.
the challenge in 1983 and created a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon and launched a wristwatch 17 years later. It was the world’s frst wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon whereby the movement is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”. When in motion, the balances create the resonance efect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy. To fnance the launch of his brand, Journe had created 20 tourbillon wristwatches to be sold to existing clients and friends using a subscription system whereby the future owners would pay upfront part of the price of the watch. When he decided to launch the Resonance Journe used the same system and the owners of the tourbillon could also purchase a Resonance bearing the same number as their tourbillon. However, contrary to the tourbillon the limited edition number was not indicated on the dial.
A F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription is already an incredibly rare timepiece (less than 20 were ever made) but you can imagine our delight and utter amazement when we discovered that a most probably unique example in platinum and pink gold with white gold dial had been commissioned.
The present Resonance Souscription has the same case number as the Tourbillon Souscription (see lot 101) and was four hand design project between Bäumer and Journe. The front and back bezels are in platinum whereas the case side and crowns are in pink gold, contrary to the other Resonance Souscription models the dial of the present model is not in yellow gold but in white gold adding extra charisma and personality to the watch.
Since its launch in 2000, the Resonance is one of contemporary horology’s most iconic pieces. Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker Antide Janvier, Journe rose to
One of the most exciting and iconic watches from the past 20 years the Journe Resonance, especially in such unique combination is a must have for any collector.
F. P. J O U R N E Chronomètre à Resonance Souscription “Two-Tone”
50.
A unique, attractive and unusual jump hour platinum wristwatch
Manufacturer
Ludovic Ballouard
Year
2009
Case No.
4/12
Model Name
Upside Down “Souscription”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. B01, 51 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum LB pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by ftted wooden box, outer packaging and certifcate. Literature Ludovic Ballouard and the Upside Down are featured in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp. 48-57.
A master watchmaker who worked with, as well as for, some of the greatest watchmakers of our time, Ballouard started creating watches under his own name in 2009. To launch his brand, Ballouard created a limited series of watches sold via subscription, where upon invitation, a client would make a down-payment that would fnance the purchase of machinery and tools, enabling Ballouard to make his frst pieces. Ballouard wanted his frst watch to display time in a whimsical manner. With the Upside Down, all but one numeral on the dial are upside down at any one time. The 12 numerals are classically displayed on the dial but are placed on twelve rotating discs.
When the central minute hand reaches precisely 12 o’clock, the past hour numeral instantaneously turns 180 degrees to rest upside down. Simultaneously, the current hour swivels in a blink of an eye to the right side up. The rotation of the current hour disc also reveals a dot on its outer edge that is only visible when the disc is upright, a discreet and clever detail that makes it easier for to quickly determine the current hour. The rotation of the two tiny hour discs take place in an instant, faster than the eye can follow. The precise, micro-mechanical ballet happens once an hour, and requires a pitch-perfect jumping mechanism as well as individual Maltese cross gears to control each rotational mechanism, ensuring perfect timekeeping during the changeover. The movement is Ballouard’s brainchild and is just as ingenious in construction as it is in displaying the time. Wanting the under-dial mechanism controlling the discs to be admired from the back, Ballouard installed the mechanism on the case-back side, avoiding the straightforward and easy route of putting it under the dial - the usual choice of a brilliant watchmaker with exacting standards. That required him to drill 12 minuscule holes through the movement plate and produce 12 tiny, but extra-long, pinions that thread through the holes to control the hour discs. Ballouard made just 12 Souscription watches - all in the most precious of metals, platinum - each individually numbered in a creative manner on the front and back. On the dial, the hour numeral corresponding to the limited-edition number is printed in red; in this instance, the watch is number “4”. Both the case back, and more surprisingly, the crown, are hand-engraved “4/12”. And to live up to its name, the edition number “4” on the case back is engraved upside down!
LU D OV I C B A L L O U A R D Upside Down “Souscription”
51.
A unique double retrograde wristwatch in steel with onyx dial and hand engraved dragon
Manufacturer
Thomas Prescher
Year
2014
Model Name
Tempus Vivendi - Dragon
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, ETA 2824-A2
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel TP pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000 ∑ $10,400-20,800 €9,500-19,000 Accessories Accompanied by Extract from the Archives confrming production in 2014 and service papers dated August 2019. Literature Thomas Prescher and his works are featured in Twelve faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elisabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp. 154-169.
Based in the picturesque Swiss village of Ipsach, Thomas Prescher eschewed a career in the navy to set up his workshops in 2002 concentrating on creating bespoke timepieces for his discerning clientele.
The present Tempus Vivendi is a unique piece and features an onyx dial and a hand engraved dragon in white gold. It is inspired by the bras en l’air pocket watches from the Roaring Twenties and playfully transformed in a wristwatch. In the present timepiece, the dragon’s “arms” indicate hours and minutes on two semi-circular engraved plates in pink gold placed on either side; the lef plate for hours and the right one for the minutes. The pushpiece with the crown makes the hands spring to the zero position and remain there until the button is pushed again whereby the hands will indicate the correct time. The automatic movement is also beautifully hand engraved. According to Thomas Prescher, the watch was a special order and is the only steel Tempus Vivendi model he has ever made, adding extra appeal to an already very attractive and unusual timepiece. Beyond the technical interest and astounding aesthetic impact, the present watch ofers an additional layer of appeal: should the buyer decide to sell the timepiece in the 6 months following the sale, the manufacturer has kindly agreed to ofer her/him a VIP experience, which includes the possibility of acquiring a new timepiece without having to join a waiting list, and the valuation and purchase by Prescher of the present piece at near retail price if the new wristwatch has a retail price of CHF 80’000 or above.
THOMAS PRESCHER Tempus Vivendi – Dragon
52.
A massive two-sides limited edition palladium-plated polished brass robot table clock with 35 days power reserve, 20-second retrograde displays, moonphases, box and guarantee
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
2016
Reference No.
50.6803/104
Case No.
32’768
Model Name
Balthazar
Material
Palladium-plated polished brass
Calibre
L’Epée in-house mechanical movement cal. 2010
Dimensions
394mm high x 238mm wide (depending on
HMDM, 62 jewels position of the arms) Signed
Body signed on both sides MB&F and L’Epée
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by MB&F transportation box with outer packaging, guarantee and user instructions.
Balthazar is the latest collaboration between MB&F and L’Epée 1839 and may be seen as Melchior’s little brother. The robot measures almost 40cm in height and displays two faces - just like “in all of us” according to its creator. While one side shows a nice and smiling face with a 20-second retrograde second displayed via the red pupils of the robot’s eyes, “Slow” jumping
hours and sweeping minutes on two disks and an impressive 35 days’ power reserve, the other “darker” side shows a skull face with a double hemisphere moon phase indicator depicting Balthazar’s bright and dark face. Despite its playful aspect, Balthazar is a highly sophisticated and imposing high-precision timepiece. Composed of 618 components, Balthazar’s movement also features the same superlative fne fnishing such as Geneva waves, anglage, mirror polishes, sand - blasting, circular and vertical satin fnishing – as seen on haute horlogerie wristwatches. MB&F in partnership with L’Epée 1839 developed an in-house movement to bring to life this almost 8-kilogram robot. Its active brain is actually a regulator with an Incabloc shock protection system to minimize risk of damage to this critical component when the clock is being transported or moved. Fitted with fve barrels, the movement has a 35-days power reserve. And fnally, it displays a moonphase indication. The fully articulated body is also a marvel of precision. When the winding key is hidden in the shield, the arms can move and the hand can grab an object. Even more impressively, the entire upper part of the body can rotate on a 360° axis around the robot’s hips. Available in four diferent colour combinations, this silver Balthazar is part of a limited edition of 50 pieces and is not only an incredibly attractive object but a defnitive talking piece.
MB&F Balthazar
53.
A large and very attractive stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone azuré dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1940
Reference No.
CK2186
Movement No.
9’150’939
Case No.
10’030’823
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, 15 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 $4,200-6,200 €3,800-5,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale in 1940 in Germany.
The present watch features one of the most intriguing and appealing dial confguration ever seen on an Omega wristwatch. Defned by its two-tone sectorial-style confguration, the the dial presents an azurage decoration (textured concentric circles) to the center encircled by a black ring. The same black hue is also used for the running second counter at 6 o clock. Already a powerful combination, this design is further highlighted by the gilt graphics where the outer railway minute divisions are combined with Arabic hour markers of highly unusual style and disposition. These are arranged radially adjacent to the inner side of the railway divisions, but the cardinal markers (12, 3, 6 and 9) are larger, not radial and placed in superimposition of the railway divisions. Even the font employed is particular as it recalls he Bauhaus style but with a twist. While the Bauhaus numerals are usually very tall and very thin, in this instance, they are short and broad, still maintaining though the rounded corners and thin trait which defne Bauhaus numerals. 54. NO LOT
OMEGA Ref. CK2186 “Te Azuré”
55.
A highly rare, attractive and extremely well-preserved yellow gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with tag and presentation box
Manufacturer
Eberhard & Co.
Year
Circa 1945
Movement No.
15’975
Case No.
1’001’455
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 16”’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $41,500-72,600 €37,900-66,400 Accessories Accompanied by Eberhard & Co. numbered tag and presentation box.
Preserved in absolutely astounding and virtually new-oldstock condition, the present timepiece is a true time capsule. Displaying powerful and defned lugs, it is unspoiled and barely worn despite being over 70 years of age. It most notably features a split seconds mechanism - among the most prestigious and complicated of all chronograph movements. The start, stop and reset functions are all controlled by a single push piece that is integrated into the winding crown. The top pusher is responsible for the split-seconds function, meant to measure intermediate times without interrupting the timekeeping of an event. Appearing to look like a third chronograph pusher, the lower pusher at 4 o’clock instead works as a “stop and lock” mechanism controlled by simply sliding the bottom button up towards the crown. When the slide is moved upwards, the precise time is protected, and can be recorded by the user. The lock prevents the accidental actuation of the chronograph’s pushers that would result in losing the measurement. The dial of the present timepiece is particularly noteworthy. Hardly displaying any signs of aging, it is free of visible tarnishing or spotting. The graphics are crisp, clear and free of losses. Considering the age of the timepiece, the dial is truly remarkable. Moreover, it is accompanied by its original presentation box and tag, adding another element of desirability.
EBERHARD & CO. Split Seconds “Time Capsule”
56.
A large and extremely attractive 14K yellow gold wristwatch with two-tone gilt dial
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1939
Reference No.
CK2039
Movement No.
8’896’662
Case No.
9’434’970
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 37.6S, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract form the Archives confrming production of the present model in 1939 and its subsequent delivery to Poland.
The present lot is a remarkable, oversized Omega reference CK 2039. Introduced in 1938, this model measures a massive 44mm in diameter which was absolutely gargantuan for the era: at the time gentleman’s dress watches usually measured between 31 and 35 mm in diameter, with 37 already considered oversize. The movement used is a robust pocket watch caliber 37.6S, most ofen used in early military or aviator watches The present watch, made in 1939, is one of the very frst models produced and was delivered to Poland, which seems to be the destination of many such watches (such as the one sold in this tent in November 2016). It is extremely rare to see a CK 2039 appear at auction even less in yellow gold as only a handful are known. The present lot is fresh to the market and in absolutely honest, unrestored, fully original condition. It will without a doubt appeal to the connoisseur due to its rarity, contemporary dimensions, lovely gilt fnished caliber and the elegantly patinated champagne dial.
OMEGA Ref. CK2039 “Te Golden Giant”
57.
A fne, rare and very large stainless steel wristwatch with black dial
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
1943
Reference No.
325
Movement No.
931’893
Case No.
1’087’185
Model Name
Portugieser
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal 74, 16 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel IWC pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-35,000 Ό $25,900-36,300 €23,700-33,200 Accessories Accompanied by IWC Certifcat stating that the watch has been examined by IWC and confrming delivery of the piece on June 24, 1943.
The origins of the IWC Portugieser are somewhat shrouded in myth, but it is widely agreed by scholars that in 1939, Portuguese watch importers – a Mr. Rodrigues and a Mr. Teixeira – made a special request of IWC to create an oversized wristwatch with a highly accurate movement. IWC took up the challenge, utilizing frst their pocket watch caliber 74, a manually wound savonette movement with subsidiary seconds
and a 54-hour power reserve. The wristwatches of the era were typically quite small, with a 36mm diameter being considered oversized, so a 42mm diameter wristwatch was positively gigantic. The frst reference 325s, now dubbed the “Portugieser”, were shipped to Lisbon in 1942 - three year afer the original request - to Mr. Rodrigues, later of the frm Rodrigues & Gonçalves, Ltd. According to IWC, only 304 examples of the reference 325 were produced with the caliber 74, with 690 examples in total produced between 1939 and 1981. The production date of 1943 places the present example among the earliest specimens to come out of the factory, having been delivered the year afer IWC began consigning the timepieces. The IWC Portugieser has been the bastion of the IWC lineup since its introduction. The style has been reinterpreted, the movement improved upon, and complications added and subtracted, but the overall physical profle – a slim and oversized men’s wristwatch with short, broad lugs – has remained the same. It is integral to the DNA of the IWC brand and retains a timeless aesthetic. The rarity of the present lot should be enough to capture the heart of any collector, but these elements are further enhanced by this Portugieser’s remarkable case condition and beautifully aged dial with luminous Arabic indexes which grants this timepiece an enormous vintage vibe.
I WC Ref. 325 Portugieser
58.
An exceptionally well preserved yellow gold and cloisonné enamel “Caravelle” dial wristwatch with Gay Frères riveted bracelet
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
1950
Reference No.
347
Movement No.
1’177’076
Case No.
1’200’208
Material
18K yellow gold and cloisonné enamel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 89, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Gold riveted bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Gold Gay Frères clasp stamped 9 and 249
Dimensions
35mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by IWC Certifcate confrming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale on April 24, 1950.
Today, mid 20th century horology is defned by some of the most iconic and recognizable tool watches produced, however cloisonné enamel dial wristwatches are equally exemplary and demonstrate the skill and artisan workmanship of the period. In the 21st century, these watches have become marvels attracting collectors both for their mechanics as well as their dials, making them works of art. The cloisonné technique has had an illustrious history dating back to the 12th century BC. It is found on jewellery, clothes fttings, weapons and decorative objects, and historically was widespread across the globe. While ofen used for jewellery, it is not until the 19th century that cloisonné enamel work appears as decoration to miniature clocks and pocket watches.
The golden age of enamel dial wristwatches is the late 1940s and 1950s. Following the end of World War II, societal attitudes were changing, class structure becoming less rigid and together with tool wristwatches, enamel dial timepieces brought innovation to a new world order. These rare watches have a striking and appealing look with their carefully created dials and include motifs like landscapes, mythical creatures, geometric stylized designs and similar to the present example boats on the seas. Each is handmade with the enameller laying down a design in fne gold wire, next adding successive layers of enamel within the wire design, and fnally fring it in a kiln. While similar designs look identical close inspection demonstrates the individuality of each piece with subtle colour diferences and design changes. Today, enamellers’ names are well-known and collectors seek examples by artists like Carlo Poluzzi and Marguerite Koch. The present IWC wristwatch is fresh to the market and a testimony to a family buying a timepiece and wearing it only a handful of times. The condition of the watch is almost exactly like it was when it lef the factory. The case is crisp clean and unpolished, while the dial displays vibrant colours and no visible hairlines under bright light and magnifcation. The popular “dragon boat” motif was found on watches by other brands, but this example is sure to be one of the best to come to auction in recent years. The accompanying Gay Frères bracelet is additional evidence the watch has remained unmolested for 70 years with both the bracelet and clasp tight, crisp and clean. It is a rare opportunity to come across such a gem and this IWC wristwatch is sure to please all connoisseur, Phillips is delighted to ofer such an extraordinary timepiece.
I WC Ref. 347 “Te Caravelle”
59.
An extremely attractive and possibly unique yellow gold wristwatch with blue enamel dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1954
Reference No.
2494
Movement No.
723’510
Case No.
514’470
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $83,000-166,000 €75,900-152,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1954 with “blue enamel dial, gold indexes” and its subsequent sale on January 15, 1955.
Enamelled timepieces never fail to elicit an enormous emotional response in collectors. The fusion of the supreme difculty of this decoration technique with its outstanding aesthetic efect propels enamel timepieces to the pinnacle of watch collecting. This is why the present timepiece can be considered as one of the most whimsically attractive and collectible time-only watches made by the manufacturer.
Already a very rare reference in its standard metal-dial confguration it is the frst time an enamel dial specimen has come to the market, thus rewriting what is known about this model. The translucent ocean blue tonality of this enamel absolutely confrmed by the archives - has been seen before on a handful of Patek Philippe timepieces (most notably, fve examples of world time reference 2523 feature a similarly coloured enamel dial). None of these other watches, however, features the same physical size of this dial measuring 28mm across. The present watch ofers a fully enamelled area of more than 6 square cm (615 square mm), a simply enormous size compared, for example, to the enamel décor of reference 2523, which has a diameter of about 11.85mm and an area of about 1.1 square cm (110 square mm) which is six times smaller. Beyond its aesthetic qualities, the timepiece is ofered in very attractive and honest condition. Most notably, it preserves in fawless condition the French import marks stamped to the outside of the caseback. A third hallmark - also perfectly preserved - is present on the back. It is in fact the hallmark of renowned French retailer Jean Guillermin, the most important French Patek Philippe distributor of the time. Given the French market original destination and the fact the the blue of the center is a practically perfect match to the Royal French Blue the ofcial color of the French monarchy - it is a very reasonable assumption that the present watch was a special request made by a highly patriotic and equally well connected French collector. Pushing this logic a bit further, it is not impossible that the original owner had some ties - either descendance or family allegiance - to the French royalty.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Probably Unique Ref. 2494 “Te Royal French Blue”
60.
An extremely rare and most attractive yellow gold wristwatch with bombé lugs, blue enamel dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1951
Reference No.
6090
Movement No.
F31296 and 46686
Case No.
730’210
Model Name
“Bombé”
Material
18K yellow gold and enamel
Calibre
Automatic, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Gay Frères bracelet, max length 170mmm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.54
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $51,900-104,000 €47,400-94,800
Showcasing beautiful curves known as “bombé lugs”, the present watch is ftted with a striking, eye-catching and absolutely spectacular blue enamel dial. The quality of the present timepiece is outstanding. The blue enamel appears bright yet translucent and has an even, rich and saturated tone. Every detail is taken into account. The enameler has painted a perfect and small circular ring around the center post where the dial plate meets the enamel, attesting to the meticulous work of Stern Frères. Furthermore, the gold graphics glint against the rich blue background, perfectly complementing the gold hour markers. Most importantly, the back of the dial is stamped with the internal number for Stern Frères, the esteemed dial maker, further attesting to its originality. The case is also preserved in excellent condition, with thick bevels and curves throughout. There is a strong hallmark beneath the lug, which is deep and crisp, attesting to the beautiful condition of the timepiece. It is even accompanied by a Gay Frères bracelet stamped for 1954, which is in excellent and superb condition as well.
61. NO LOT
RO L E X Ref. 6090 “Blue Enamel Bombé”
62.
A previously unknown and most probably unique pink gold open face world time pocketwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of Europe, Asia, Africa
The arrival on the market of a Patek Philippe world time pocket watch featuring a cloisonné enamel dial is always exhilarating, but the discovery of an example unknown to the market is a transcendental moment of awe and excitement. Four reference 605HU were known until today, featuring a dial depicting Europe, Asia and Africa, however they were all cased in yellow gold. The present model, fresh to the market and from the family of the original owner, is the only one known housed in a pink gold case adding an extra layer of desirability. Before the arrival on the market of the present piece, we knew of only 6 other reference 605HU cased in pink gold but featuring diferent dials. Patek Philippe’s vintage world time watches, especially with cloisonné enamel dials have garnered a cult status amongst collectors. World time watches were serially produced by Patek Philippe from the late 1930s to the 1950s (and then again in modern form from 2000 onward), all of them made under the absolute supervision of watchmaker Louis Cottier, inventor of the world time system.
In 1937, Cottier submitted to the company a frst ofer for a 17’’’ world time movement and he would eventually create less than 100 movements, most of them cased in reference 605. The model was originally ofered with a silver (sometimes champagne or pink) dial, but it was a commercial fop due to the combination of the downhill trend of pocket watches in then-current fashion and the novelty of the world time system which was met with lukewarm enthusiasm by Patek Philippe clients. This is why it is very common to see years passing between the production date of a 605 HU and its sale: in this case for example, the watch was manufactured in 1950 but sold only in 1957.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Te Only Known Ref. 605HU in Pink Gold “Eastern Hemisphere”
62.
A previously unknown and most probably unique pink gold open face world time pocketwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of Europe, Asia, Africa
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1950
Reference No.
605HU
Movement No.
931’071
Case No.
683’464
Model Name
Worldtime
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17-170HU, 18 jewels
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $259,000-519,000 €237,000-474,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1950 with world time dial, enamel center, Europe, Asia, Africa and its subsequent sale on April 16, 1957.
When analyzing the back of the enamel disc, one can notice on the opposite side from where the movement number is stamped another mark which would look like an unusual glyph to an untrained eye. In fact, that is the stamp of Louis Cottier (an interlaced L an C). Connoisseurs of watchmaking will fnd it surprising for a watchmaker to sign a dial which is not made by the watchmaker. In fact, due to the mechanical connections of the revolving bezel and dial to the world time mechanism, Cottier himself supervised every single production passage for these pieces and thus the back of the dial bears his mark. An absolutely thrilling fnd, the present reference 605HU from the family of the original owner, housed in pink gold and featuring a cloisonné enamel dial featuring Europe, Asia and Africa is not merely the only one known and probably unique example in this confguration but it is in incredible condition and an absolute must have for the collector of rare and historically important vintage pieces.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Te Only Known Ref. 605HU in Pink Gold “Eastern Hemisphere”
63.
A rare, large and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two-tone dial
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 530 “Pink Gold Two-Tone Dial”
63.
A rare, large and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two-tone dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1952
Reference No.
530
Movement No.
868’267
Case No.
513’045
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000 $311,000-623,000 €284,000-569,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1952 with raised gold hour markers and tachometer scale and its subsequent sale on November 25, 1952.
Reference 530 was frst launched in 1937 and remains one of the rarest chronograph models manufactured by the frm. Even though it takes design cues from its sister model, reference 130, the case size of reference 530 remains substantial even to today’s standards with a whopping 36.5mm. diameter which wears even larger due to its relatively thin bezel. It was available either as a chronograph or time-only model. The present watch is cased in pink gold, which is much rarer than its yellow gold sibling. Research shows that we only know 16 examples of reference 530s cased in this precious metal, with an approximate total production number of 30 pieces, making the present watch an exceedingly rare specimen. Showcasing wide, thick lugs and a hallmark beneath the lug, this chronograph wristwatch has been preserved in excellent condition, particularly when one considers the age of the timepiece. Furthermore, the beautiful two-tone dial is also preserved in excellent condition with barely any signs of aging. It displays a “short” signature which is correct. One would expect a watch, ftted with a snap-on case back to be exposed to the elements, and thus tarnished and spotted heavily. However, this dial is crisp despite its age, and complete with raised hard enamel graphics.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 530 “Pink Gold Two-Tone Dial”
64.
An historically signifcant, highly important and extremely rare yellow gold world time wristwatch
PAT E K P H I L I P P E One of Two Known Ref. 96HU “Worldtime”
64.
An historically signifcant, highly important and extremely rare yellow gold world time wristwatch
One of the most important assets a watch manufacturer has especially in light of the current renaissance of vintage watch collecting - is its “heritage”: the accumulated knowledge - technical and stylistic - developed in years, at times centuries, of continued operation which in the end shapes the current brand identity of the company. Undoubtedly, Patek Philippe is one of the brands with the strongest heritage. Throughout its nearly two centuries of history, it has become virtually synonymous with Haute Horlogerie, its complicated timepieces regarded as one of the pinnacles of Swiss watchmaking. If asked, many Patek Philippe collectors would mention three lines of watches which encapsulate Patek Philippe’s savoir faire: chronograph wristwatches with perpetual calendar and moonphases, chiming timepieces and world time watches. Patek Philippe world time pieces are today an integral and fundamental part of the company’s repertoire , available in various versions: from simple examples to those decorated with cloisonné enamel dials, passing by iterations with integrated chronograph or even a minute repeating movement. Intriguingly, it is only in the past 20 years that the complication has emerged as a fagship of the company with the rediscovery of the appeal of the vintage examples.
One can identify three “eras” in the evolution of Patek Philippe world time pieces: a modern consecration to fame, with the reintroduction of the complication in the year 2000; a “quiescence” moment in the 1950s and 1960s, when the two-crown models commercialised (2523 and 2523/1) were met with lukewarm enthusiasm by the market; and an infancy, comprising a handful of early prototypical pieces and, in the 1940s, the frst serially made model (reference 1415). The present watch is not only part of the extremely scarce pre-1415 models, but it is in fact one of the earliest iterations of the complication - possibly the oldest - ever made by Patek Philippe: a true archetype, the beginning of what is regarded today as a pillar of the current Patek Philippe collection. The watch’s prototypical nature is apparent when one looks not only at the case - a traditional Reference 96 “Calatrava” case as opposed to the reference 1415 with tear drop lugs- but also at the movement; as stated in the Extract, it dates back to 1913 (24 years before the watch’s completion in 1937), featuring gold wheels, moustache escapement, snail cam regulator, and wolf tooth gears. The presence of such an old movement perfectly fts with the fact that the watch was not intended for mass production.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E One of Two Known Ref. 96HU “Worldtime”
64.
An historically signifcant, highly important and extremely rare yellow gold world time wristwatch
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1913 / 1937
Reference No.
96HU
Movement No.
176’230
Case No.
294’861
Model Name
Worldtime
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
31mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Provenance Private collection of Jean-Claude Biver Estimate CHF 300,000-600,000 $311,000-623,000 €284,000-569,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of this watch in 1913, its subsequent sale on September 24, 1937, and remarking that “the movement was made in 1913, completed and encased in 1937”.
In fact, only two examples of reference 96HU are known to have been made: the present piece, unknown before 2011 when it was acquired at auction by the current owner, and a second example bearing a slightly earlier movement number (176’226)
but a later case number (294’923) and currently in the Patek Philippe museum. One could, with an educated guess, conclude that these two watches were made at the same time, most probably together with the unique rectangular-shaped reference 515 bearing movement no. 811’161 and case no. 294’862. While scholarship commonly identifes the reference 515 as the earliest Patek Philippe world time wristwatch, it is impossible to attribute with certainty such distinction to any of the three pieces. As mentioned before, this watch belongs to a group of models made in extremely scarce numbers - possibly on-request pieces of market tests for the upcoming mass production - before the introduction of reference 1415 (produced in 115 pieces). These models are: reference 96HU - 2 examples known, one the present watch reference 515HU - pink gold, rectangular case, fxed city ring - 1 example known reference 542HU - very small (27mm) model with revolving bezel - 2 in yellow gold, 1 in pink gold reference 1416 - a sibling to reference 1415 but with beanshaped lugs (possibly a market test) - 3 pieces made reference 1415-1HU - world time chronograph wristwatch pièce unique An incredibly rare and historically important timepiece, the present reference 96HU is the only one still in private hands and ofers an incredible opportunity that should not be missed.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E One of Two Known Ref. 96HU “Worldtime”
65.
ROLEX — A highly rare, very attractive and extremely well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1945
Reference No.
3372
Movement No.
N11’626
Case No.
348’170
Model Name
“Bubble back”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 9 3⁄4’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.50
Dimensions
32mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 3,000-6,000 $3,100-6,200 €2,800-5,700
Cased in an array of metals and ftted with a variety of dials, ‘Bubble Back’ watches were in production for over 22 years, from the early Thirties to the mid Fifies. For many years, the ‘Bubble Back’ wristwatch was Rolex’s best selling model. At the time of production, the model was ofcially named the “Oyster Perpetual”. The nickname “Bubble Back” is derived from the convex shape of the case back used to house the new automatic winding system, which replaced the manual mechanism. Reference 3372 was frst introduced to the market in 1940. At the time of production, the model’s appearance was very unusual. The watch featured a ‘machine’ bezel, showcasing a threaded design that is still very appealing and eye catching today. Displaying a very impressive bezel and defnition to the case, this “Bubble Back” is preserved in most probably unpolished condition. The dial is also preserved in astounding and almost unblemished condition, which is particularly astounding considering the age of the timepiece.
66.
TUDOR — An elegant and very well-preserved yellow gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds
Manufacturer
Tudor
Year
Circa 1950s
Reference No.
4463
Case No.
12’691
Model Name
Shock Resisting
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rolex alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed “Tudor”, buckle and strap signed “Rolex”
Estimate CHF 4,000-6,000 ∑ $4,200-6,200 €3,800-5,700
The present watch ofers a remarkable insight into the evolution of Tudor. The elegant dial and solid gold case classify the present piece as a dress watch, while the waterproof case and relatively simple movement are style traits typical of Tudor. This timepiece then represents a rare foray of the brand into the territories of evening/dress watches. This was a very bold move as Rolex itself was at the time focused on sports watches and Tudor was meant to be a more afordable sister brand. It was therefore highly counter intuitive for them to approach the luxury market. In fact, when making gold watches, Tudor usually employed relatively inexpensive gold-plated cases, sometimes keeping a steel back. This piece appears to be an extremely rarefed exception where the case is solid 18K gold. The brand would subsequently shy away from the luxury segment and instead focus on steel sport watches which remains their specialty even today. Beyond the historical interest, the present watch surprises the beholder with its absolutely exceptional condition, featuring case and dial not only unrestored, but also perfectly preserved down to the last detail, including the presence of the Rolex green sticker to the back.
67.
A very fne and rare stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with date, black glossy dial, exclamation mark, pointed crown guard, bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
1675 inside caseback further stamped 1.63
Movement No.
83’832
Case No.
875’554
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, endlinks stamped 555, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex USA deployant buckle
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by additional butterfy rotor and original box.
In 1954, Rolex launched one of its most iconic models: the GMT-Master. The timepiece was initially developed in collaboration with Pan American Airlines as to enable their pilots to simultaneously keep track of two time zones when fying from one location to another. Fitted with an extremely fragile Bakelite bezel, reference 6542 was replaced in 1959 by reference 1675 ftted with a more robust metallic insert.
In addition to the new metallic bezel insert, the case design was reinforced by crown guards. The very frst examples of this reference were ftted, like the present watch, with pointed crown guards. The dial remains the extremely attractive black glossy dial until 1966 when matte dials were introduced on the reference. In the early 60s, the use of radium was progressively banned and watchmakers had to fnd a way to diferentiate watches with lower radiation level. Several signs were used during the transitional years of 1962-1963, some watches would bear an underline, a double Swiss or like the present one an exclamation mark. These signs, that had to be as discrete as possible, would allow customs to see that the dials were safe, or at least less harmful and are now considered the most exciting detail to have on a dial. The present reference 1675 is part of the very few examples to display an exclamation mark. Its ultra-attractive black glossy dial gives the watch a rich and deep aspect which contrasts nicely with the red and blue bezel whose colour has started to fade. Presented on a Rolex USA Jubilee bracelet, it is further accompanied by its original box.
RO L E X Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “Exclamation Mark”
68.
A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with helium escape valve, bracelet, made for COMEX, with diving mask and literature about the original owner’s career
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1970
Reference No.
5513
Case No.
2’837’921 inside caseback stamped IV. 70 and last 3 digits of serial number repeated (921), caseback further signed Rolex COMEX and B. Lilleland
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 93510, end links stamped 501B, with diver extension stamped “PATETED”, max length 250mm.
Clasp/Buckle
Folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed. Caseback further signed Rolex COMEX
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by owner’s diving mask, documents retracing his diving career and a book on the history of diving in the North Sea.
Rolex has been known as the maker of tool watches par excellence and the present reference 5513 made for COMEX is a perfect example of a piece from their regular collection, modifed for the specifc needs of deep water divers.
A pioneer of deep sea exploration, COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) frst contacted Rolex in 1963. This resulted in a number of modifed Submariner reference 5513, some of them featuring Helium Escape Valves. These frst experiments would eventually lead to two diferent timepieces: the Sea-Dweller, featuring a thicker case for improved water resistance, which would eventually be released to the public in 1971, and the Submariner reference 5514, featuring the thinner case construction typical of the Submariner, but ftted with a Helium Escape Valve. The present early reference 5513 features not only a Helium Escape Valve but it is correctly engraved Rolex Comex on the caseback, the three last digits of the serial number are also repeated inside the caseback. B. Lilleland is hand engraved on the caseback, Bjorn Lilleland - the owner of the watch – was given this watch in 1971 when he joined COMEX. A pioneer diver for COMEX, he worked in incredible harsh conditions on the oil rigs in the North Sea where he wore this watch during his many dives, including a 180m dive underwater for 28 days! A diver of incredible focus and determination, Lilleland developed new diving techniques and security measures afer having witnessed a fatal accident of a close friend in March 1971. With most examples issued to COMEX specialist divers with a COMEX dial and caseback with engraved issue numbers, the 5513 non-logo with helium escape valve, like the present model, is one of the rarest of all. The present lot comes accompanied with Mr. Lilleland’s diving mask, documents retracing his diving career and a book on the history of diving in the North Sea.
RO L E X Original Owner Ref. 5513 Submariner “COMEX”
69.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive pink gold wristwatch with black lacquer dial and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1955
Reference No.
6565
Movement No.
N’831’571
Case No.
109’991
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-22,000 $12,500-22,800 €11,400-20,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee.
This rarely-seen model, reference 6565, most notably features a threaded bezel which is preserved in excellent condition. Each vertical fnish is present and defned. A crisp hallmark is present beneath the lug. It furthermore displays a black lacquer dial that has aged gracefully over time. The gold text shines through in almost relief, evoking the efect of the lacquer on beloved sports models.
The combination of pink gold case and black dial is very striking and arresting. As an even nicer touch, it’s accompanied by its original guarantee.
70.
ROLEX — An extremely rare and elegant yellow gold wristwatch with red center seconds and enamel sector dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1936
Reference No.
3900
Movement No.
10’927
Case No.
37’794
Model Name
Oyster Chronometre Scientifc
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
30.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000 Ό $10,400-20,800 €9,500-19,000
The present piece features a number of highly unusual traits which will enthral the collectors of vintage timepieces. Most apparently, the dial is not metal but enamel, a highly unusual feature for a Rolex wristwatch; only a handful of enamel dials are in fact known from the Crown House. Furthermore, the graphical confguration of the dial is also highly attractive as it features a sectorial arrangement which is in fact typical of the late 1930s and would swifly disappear with the dawn of the following decade. The present dial features - moving from the center of the dial toward the edge - even Arabic numerals to the center, then a scale with baton hour divisions, another scale with baton minute divisions, and fnally a railway scale with ffh of a second combined with Arabic fve minutes divisions, a confguration typical of this era and usually employed on chronograph timepieces. The presence of this scale, coupled with the red center seconds hand, indicate a professional intended usage of the piece, as highlighted by the “Scientifc” designation on the dial. Finally, the caseback also ofers an intriguing detail as it bears the R.W.C. (Rolex Watch Company) stamp but also the extended signature “Oyster Watch Company”, one of the entities which was part of the Rolex galaxy before the company grouped together its assets under the Rolex name. It was active during the 1920s-1940s and specialised in more afordable timepieces - akin to Tudor today. The present piece is very unusual as OWC timepieces usually feature gold plated or steel cases, given their lower price point. The present timepiece, however, features a solid 18K gold case.
71.
ROLEX — A rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with dark brown “tropical” multi-scale dial and olive-shaped pushers
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1937
Reference No.
2508
Case No.
037609
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 22, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
35.2mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700
Introduced in the mid 1930s the Rolex reference 2508 is a favorite amongst collectors due to its oversized case, fat bezel, and classic no frills design that is, compared to the rest of the brand’s production, more in-line with those of two other historical Genevan brands: Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. This reference existed in two diferent confgurations. Early models feature olive-shaped pushers and a larger case diameter (37.2mm); second generation versions instead come with rectangular pushers and a 35.2mm case. Furthermore, early 2508s have the serial numbers punched on the caseback, whereas later ones have the 6-digit number fnely engraved at the edge of the back. This example is of particular interest as it appears to be a transitional piece: it features numbers to the back and olive pushers as a frst series model, but it also presents the more compact size of the second series. Such transitional pieces are extremely elusive and ofer an intriguing window into the evolution of the model. Furthermore, this example is ofered by the family of the original owner and boasts a superb tropical dial with a remarkable chocolate hue. A truly perfect storm of looks, history, provenance and rarity.
72.
OMEGA — A rare, large and very attractive stainless steel chronograph with multi-scale dial and pulsations scale
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1939
Movement No.
9’385’506
Case No.
9’556’287
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal 33.3, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-12,000 $6,200-12,500 €5,700-11,400
This extremely well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch most notably displays an impressive multi-tone silver dial with both tachymeter and pulsations scales. Printed in diferent shades, the scales range from blue to red, giving this watch a lot of charisma and depth. Contrasting against the Arabic numerals, the efect is stunning. The present chronograph display’s Omega’s incredible knowhow in creating chronograph wristwatches. Housing the iconic 33.3 caliber, this example is preserved in excellent condition, with sharp angled lugs that do not display signs of over polishing. The 37.5 millimeter case is very large for the period, its presence enhanced by the three dimensional angled lugs. It is particularly impressive that Omega had the foresight to create such a large and modern looking watch in the late 1930s. Research with the manufacture reveals that this timepiece was sold to Italy in 1939.
73.
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial, pointed crown guards and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1961
Reference No.
5512 inside caseback stamped II.60
Movement No.
04’623
Case No.
578’118
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.61
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 Ό $41,500-83,000 €37,900-75,900
Launched in approximately 1958, reference 5512 was the frst Submariner model to be ftted with crown guards. Its predecessors, such as reference 5508 or 6536/1 all featured a ‘small crown’, which Rolex deemed too delicate for a robust tool watch. While the earliest 5512s displayed square crown guards, Rolex modifed the case shape by incorporating pointed crown guards, as seen on the present timepiece. Compared to its sibling reference 5513, reference 5512 had a chronometer certifed movement and thus carried a movement number. This model is particularly beloved by collectors and is harder to fnd on the market due to its relatively lower production numbers. An especially alluring variant of reference 5512 is one ftted with a lacquer dial, such as the present watch. Produced until approximately 1967, lacquer, or gilt dials, impress with their glossy fnish and golden text which catches the light beautifully. The present dial has aged particularly well, and does not display heavy cracking or tarnishing throughout. It still retains a mirror like fnish. Furthermore, the luminous material has aged evenly with the hands, and both display beautiful patina, matching even the pearl on the bezel. It is incredibly rare to fnd a timepiece is such unspoiled condition.
RO L E X Ref. 5512 Submariner “Glossy Cornino”
74.
A historically important yellow gold wristwatch with date from estate of CIA agent Francis Gary Powers
A top-secret American U-2 spy plane shot down out over enemy territory. Two superpowers engaged in brinksmanship. A truelife tale of two spies and immortalized in the blockbuster Steven Spielberg flm, “Bridge of Spies”. All instigated by one CIA agent – Francis Gary Powers. The famous Rolex campaign, “Every Rolex Tells a Story”, couldn’t be more apropos when considering the history of the present watch’s original owner. An all-original Rolex Datejust reference 1601 in 14 karat gold, it was purchased by Francis Gary Powers in November 1962, the same year Powers and a detained American student were famously traded for the Soviet spy, Rudolf Abel. Consigned directly by Powers’ son, Francis Gary Powers, Jr., who cherished the watch following his father’s passing in 1977, it retains its original box, bracelet, guarantee, and chronometer rating certifcate. Exactly 60 years ago, on May 1st 1960, on the eve of a Paris Summit between U.S. President Dwight Eisenhower, Premier Nikita Khrushchev of the Soviet Union, Prime Minister Harold Macmillan of Great Britain, and President Charles de Gaulle of France, an American U2 spy plane was shot down over the Soviet Union by a Soviet surface-to-air missile. The incident had its roots going back to a conference held in Geneva in 1955 between President Eisenhower and Premier Khrushchev, where due to the growing threat of nuclear weapons to each nations’ security, Eisenhower requested an “open skies” plan of permitting overfights of each other’s
Francis Gary Powers trial, 1960 (USSR). © www.garypowers.com
country to allow mutual aerial inspections of nuclear facilities and launch sites. Khrushchev refused while at the same time claiming the Soviet Union had successfully developed numerous intercontinental ballistic missiles. Motivated to verify Khruschchev’s claims, the US developed the U2 spy plane program comprised of a high-altitude plane capable of fying above 70,000 feet. Its high-altitude capability was believed to make it undetectable to ground-based radar, as an overfight could be considered an act of war. Operated by the US Central Intelligence Agency (CIA), the U2’s frst successful overfight would took place over Moscow in July 1956. Unbeknownst to the CIA, the Soviet’s were able to detect the U2 overfights on radar. When the U2 plane piloted by Gary Powers was intercepted by the Soviet missile, a shockwave hit the plane, snapping of a wing and plunging it into an uncontrollable spin towards the earth. Powers thought to use the ejection seat, but realized his legs could be severed during the ejection unless he was precisely positioned. Instead, he simply opened the canopy and climbed out. As he released the canopy, he was immediately sucked up half-way out of the plane, stuck to the cockpit by his oxygen pump. One of the most memorable scenes vividly recreated in Steven Spielberg’s 2015 flm, “Bridge of Spies”, due to the g-forces of the rapidly descending plane and his position part way out of the plane, he could not reach the self-destruct mechanism on
RO L E X Te Gary Powers Ref. 1601 Datejust “Bridge of Spies”
74.
A historically important yellow gold wristwatch with date from estate of CIA agent Francis Gary Powers
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1962
Reference No.
1601
Movement No.
D37024
Case No.
713’571
Model Name
Datejust
Material
14k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14k yellow gold Jubilee bracelet measuring 230mm max.
Clasp/Buckle
Yellow gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, chronometer certifcate and warantee.
the plane’s dashboard to destroy the plane before it fell into Soviet hands. Finally freeing himself, he parachuted safely down to earth but was tracked by KGB agents and was arrested upon landing. When confronted by the Soviets, the U.S.’s cover story held that Powers was studying weather patterns for NASA and merely
© www.garypowers.com
strayed of course due to an oxygen failure The top-secret U2 spy plane was recovered by the Soviets and placed on public display in Moscow to illustrate America’s deceit. Powers was put on trial for espionage and ultimately sentenced to three years in prison followed by seven years in a labor camp. He would remain in prison until his exchange on 10 February 1962, for Russian KGB spy Colonel Rudolf Abel who was held by the U.S. Prior to Powers’ return to the U.S., he was painted in a negative light prior to his release – criticized in the press for not destroying his plane or using a poison pin to take his own life. During a U.S. Senate Committee hearing in 1962, he was given a chance to tell his side of the story in the public eye. Following their investigation, he was shown “to be a fne young man performing well under dangerous circumstances.” Documents declassifed in 1998 showed he followed orders, gave out no secret information, and never denounced the U.S. while imprisoned. Fully exonerated, he was awarded $50,000 in back pay to cover his period of imprisonment in Russia – a signifcant sum in 1962! With this windfall, Powers, who had an appreciation for quality objects, decided he would buy a fne watch. He visited the jeweler, Lane Crawford’s, in November of that year, and chose this classic gold ref. 1601 ftted on a 14-karat gold Jubilee-style bracelet stamped “Lane Crawford’s”. With its utterly fascinating CIA-agent provenance, this fresh-to-market, extraordinarily complete “Francis Gary Powers” Rolex Datejust, is a rare trophy watch for the connoisseur.
© www.garypowers.com
RO L E X Te Gary Powers Ref. 1601 Datejust “Bridge of Spies”
75.
ROLEX — A fne stainless steel dual time automatic wriswatch with center seconds, date, ceramic bezel, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2018
Reference No.
126710BLRO
Movement No.
0025L771
Case No.
1J75T725
Model Name
GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3285, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card dated June 24, 2018, product literature, green card holder, two hang tags, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
The undisputable shockwave of Baselworld 2018 was Rolex launching a new GMT Master. Acclaimed by the public, the watch became instantaneously a must have and reached the peaks of Rolex waiting list.
The iconic model, initially made for pilots to enable them to simultaneously keep track of two time zones was ready for a renewal! The new reference 126710BLRO features an extremely attractive Jubilee bracelet, a specifcity that nods to the original GMT model which was in fact the only sports watch ofered by the brand with this bracelet – others would typically come with an Oyster bracelet. The red and blue so-called Pepsi bezel was made of Bakelite, the most fragile material in the frst GMT reference 6542 from 1954, later it was replaced by a metal insert in the reference 1675 and the 2018 reference was graced by a robust yet deep looking ceramic bezel giving the watch a similar feel than the frst iteration of the model. The present watch is one of the earliest examples produced. Sold in June 2018, it has only seen an occasional wear and is presented today in excellent condition.
76.
ROLEX — A fne and very rare limited edition stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, 24-hour indication, date, engraved caseback and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2014
Reference No.
116710LN
Movement No.
93’8V6’8M8
Case No.
OV’686’960 further stamped 2350 inside caseback
Model Name
GMT-Master II “Sea King”
Material
Stainless steel
and 123/123 on the outside
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700
The present GMT-Master II is part of an extremely rare limited edition of 123 pieces made to commemorate the famous Sea King helicopter commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense to be used as an anti-submarine warfare helicopter as well as a search-and-rescue (SAR) and airborne early warning (AEW) helicopter.
Produced between 1969 and 1995, the last remaining Sea King variant in Royal Navy service was retired on September 2018. Even if Rolex is known for not doing limited edition or accepting to produce special pieces upon order anymore, the present watch proves the exception. Exclusively sold to those associated to the Sea King and not available for purchase otherwise, the watches were numbered on the caseback next to the Sea King engravings with the words “Fear God Honour the King”. Numbered 123/123 the present watch is the last one of the batch. It is ofered in excellent condition and even if the visible part of the watch is identical to any other reference 116710LN, the breath of the collector will for sure be taken away when looking at the caseback.
77.
An exceedingly rare and pristine yellow gold wristwatch with black lacquer dial and roulette date wheel, made for the United States Air Force Tunderbirds
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
6609
Movement No.
N’754’222
Case No.
382’912
Model Name
Datejust Turn-O-Graph “Thunderbird”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1065, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900
Established in 1953 at Luke Air Force Base in Arizona, the Thunderbirds are one of the oldest air demonstration teams in the world and part of the U.S. Airforce. During the 1950s and 1960s, Rolex delivered a number of special order Datejusts to the Thunderbids. These timepieces were equipped with a rotating bezel and a dial that displayed the team’s emblem at 6 o’clock. In fact, Rolex had produced advertisements during this period with the “Thunderbird” Datejust proudly emblazoned across. Made for the United States Air Force Thunderbirds, the present watch is spectacular in a number of ways. It most notably displays a black lacquer dial with the Thunderbird emblem at 6 o’clock. Through time, the black lacquer has aged gracefully and still remains glossy today. The luminous dots remain round, intact and have aged consistently with the hands. The case is furthermore a sight to behold. In a stunning discovery, the caseback displays “U.S. Airforce Thunderbids” etched on the edge. A tiny bit of polishing would have rubbed this thin engraving and its existence allows collectors and scholars to understand what a “Thunderbird” wristwatch originally looked like when it was delivered. Furthermore, there is a sharp and crisp hallmark on the caseback which probably has never seen any intervention throughout its lifetime.
RO L E X Ref. 6609 Datejust Turn-O-Graph “Tunderbird”
78.
A very rare, highly important and extremely attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman John Player Special dial and bracelet
Racing cars are ofen known for their vivid livery: John Wyer’s orange and blue Mirage M1 that eventually became the GT40 in 1968 and won Le Mans two years running, the red and white stripes of Marlboro sponsored cars, or even British Racing Green which can be seen painted on English cars. As cars and watches are so symbiotic, these colors have transferred onto automobiles’ smaller mechanical companions to great success. One of the sleekest, most-desired, and valued color schemes is the black and gold of the John Player Special Tobacco company, which in 1972, was chosen as the livery of Team Lotus’s Formula One race cars. The palette happens to be also found on an extremely rarefed series of Paul Newman 6241 in gold, exemplifed by the present watch, and thus the nickname “John Player Special” was born. While beauty is inherently subjective, few - if any - collectors will disagree with the statement that among the many variations of the Daytona Cosmograph, vintage and modern, one of the most visually striking one is indeed the John Player Special Paul Newman 6241, with the alternation of black and gold details of the dial perfectly reprised on the case with its gold sheen and pitch black bezel. While the watch was conceived some years before the car and has no relation to the sporting event, from the contrasting black and gold graphics to the intricate trim and details, the similarities between the two are absolutely uncanny. Reference 6241 was manufactured between approximately 1966 and 1969, with our research indicating that fewer than 300 examples were cased in 18K yellow gold, and even less in the 14K alternative of the present timepiece.
RO L E X Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “John Player Special”
78.
A very rare, highly important and extremely attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman John Player Special dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
2’084’277
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman
Material
14K yellow gold
John Player Special” Calibre
Manual, cal 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “57” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K Rolex deployant clasp stamped “E”
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 400,000-800,000 $415,000-830,000 €379,000-759,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex undated and unstamped Guarantee, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
The condition of the timepiece is as attractive as its aesthetics. The superbly preserved dial is as close to a perfect 10 out of 10 as one will ever see, with no faws or blemishes whatsoever, allowing the vibrant contrast of the main dial and sub dials to glow. Each original luminous plot is perfectly formed and even, only the one at 3 o’clock has an extremely minor loss material, a beauty mark which practically amplifes the vintage appeal of the watch. The charismatic, sing-a-song “T-SWISS-T” printing at the bottom of the dial is the rarely-seen enlarged print version with beautiful serifs present on each letter, perfectly correct for the serial number range. Furthermore, it retains its Rolex guarantee paper. A perfect storm of highly appealing traits with propels the present timepiece to the pinnacle of desirability for the connoisseur of highly important and attractive timepieces.
RO L E X Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “John Player Special”
79.
An exceedingly rare and extremely well-preserved pink gold chronograph wristwatch with blue tachymeter scale and only 30-minute register
RO L E X
Ref. 6232 Oyster Chronographe Anti-Magnetique “Te Elusive”
lotno. 79.
An exceedingly rare and extremely well-preserved pink gold chronograph wristwatch with blue tachymeter scale and only 30-minute register
WATC H M AK RO LER X
Ref. 6232 Oyster Chronographe Anti-Magnetique “Te Elusive” Ref.
79. lotno.
An exceedingly rare and extremely well-preserved pink gold chronograph wristwatch with blue tachymeter scale and only 30-minute register
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
6232
Case No.
394’877
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. A23, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Vintage Rolex strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $208,000-415,000 €190,000-379,000 Literature The present watch is prominently illustrated in 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 118 and 119. It is also published in I Cronograf Rolex - La Leggenda by Pucci Papaleo Editions, page 252 and 253.
Quite possibly one of the best preserved specimens of its kind, the present watch is a spectacular example and a sight to behold. An incredibly rare chronograph model, reference 6232 hardly ever appears on the market. In fact, research suggests that the present watch is one of only twelve watches in existence, destined for the French market. Moreover, the known examples are within a very tight serial range.
Reference 6232 stands out from the other Rolex chronographs from the same period by the fact that it does not have a 12-hour register, the standard for Rolex in the 1950s. Also, it does not use the caliber 72 like its siblings but a caliber A23. It is, in absolute terms, one of the rarest Rolex references of all times. The case is preserved in pristine condition, with French import marks stamped on the outside caseback - ftting as the graphics on the dial are also in French. Two crisp and sharp hallmarks are present on each lug and the case displays beautiful fnishes throughout. The dial too, is preserved in spectacular condition with barely any signs of aging. There are virtually no spots or signs of tarnishing on the dial. All luminous dots are present and have aged with warm patina, matching the hands. The watch even retains its original vintage Rolex strap, adding another element of desirability. Furthermore, the straight “Oyster Chronographe” text on the dial is so evocative of 1950s dials and gives the present watch so much charisma and character. If these details were not enough to stun even the most seasoned collector, the watch is published twice in literature. It is prominently displayed in both 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger and I Cronograf Rolex – La Leggenda by Pucci Papaleo Editions.
80. NO LOT
WATC H M AK RO LER X
Ref. 6232 Oyster Chronographe Anti-Magnetique “Te Elusive” Ref.
81.
A rare and attractive white gold calendar wristwatch with wood dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1983
Reference No.
18039
Movement No.
1’026’781
Case No.
7’630’296
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 18,000-25,000 $18,700-25,900 €17,100-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee and presentation box.
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. Since its inception in 1956, it remains one of the most surprising and diverse fagship models Rolex has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamor and prestige. This wonderfully preserved Day-Date features a beautiful briar root wood dial. Given that the wood is a naturally occurring specimen, no two wood dials are exactly the same in appearance. Furthermore, it is particularly rare to fnd an example cased in white gold displaying a white gold coronet and markers, as most Day-Dates are available in yellow gold. This particular example is preserved in particularly impressive and almost-pristine condition, with crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs. Furthermore, the top of the lugs and case back display crisp, milled fnishes, attesting to the originality of the timepiece. It is even accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box, further adding to its collectibility and desirability.
RO L E X Ref. 18039 Day-Date “Briar Root Wood”
82.
A very rare, extremely attractive and superbly well-preserved yellow gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, burgundy Stella dial, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1986
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
1’748’864
Case No.
9’691’013
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet stamped “55” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed deployant clasp stamped “8385” and “M2”
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 Ό $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee stamped by Italian retailer Bedetti s.r.l. and dated May 7, 1988, calendar card for the years 1988/1989, leather cardholder, product literature, “faux seal” hangtag, polishing cloth and ftted leather presentation box.
With its production starting in 1977 and ending in 1988, reference 18038 was distinguished by its new-at-the-time scratch-proof sapphire crystal, an upgrade from the original Plexiglas. While today sapphire crystal are accepted as standard for a wristwatch, at the time it was revolutionary. Reference 18038 is one of the last models to be ftted with extraordinarily attractive lacquer dials (dubbed “stella” - “star”, in Italian - by Rolex), such as the case for the present watch, featuring an immaculate burgundy Stella dial. Furthermore, the piece is ofered in absolutely stunning condition, obviously unpolished and probably unworn, and still retaining the fawless green Rolex sticker to the back. The dial as well is in similar condition, without a single faw and fully retaining the tritium luminous accents, now aged to a warm camel hue. Of course, such an outstanding condition is matched with the presence of its original accessories. When looking at the punched guarantee card, one notices that the present watch was sold in Rome by Rolex retailer “Bedetti”, thus perfectly explaining the rare and sough-afer Italian calendar which blesses the present timepiece.
RO L E X Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Burgundy Stella”
83.
A possibly unique and highly important platinum and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, black gloss dial, diamond-set round numerals and service guarantee
One of the most elusive Day-Date models, the appeal of the present reference 6612/6613 is further boosted by the number of unusual traits it features, which render it one of the most collectible Day-Dates to ever appear on the market. First and foremost, it appears that the case of the present watch was intended to be used on a reference 6612, as denoted between the lugs. The 66xx series of Day-Dates in fact is made up of: ref. 6611, featuring ribbed bezel ref. 6612, featuring smooth bezel ref. 6613, featuring diamond-set bezel In this case, while the number 6612 is present both between the lugs and inside the caseback, the number 6613 appears stamped in the back underneath 6612, indicating the watch was upgraded at a later stage. This makes perfect sense when considering the extremely scarce production of reference 6613, of which another example is known from John Goldberger’s book “100 Superlative Rolex Watches”, and a third one from the Hong Kong Phillips sale of May 2016, this latter one featuring a bespoke dial. Such scarcity, combined by the fact that the case numbers of these three watches are all in the 4xx’xxx range, indicates that this model was most probably only produced on special order, a theory further supported by the dial of the present watch. It in fact presents some extremely unusual traits which directly challenge the current scholarship on Day-Date. For example, the diamond setting of the indexes has never before seen round chatons as opposed to the conventional square ones. Even the Day Date signature is highly peculiar, lacking the hyphen between the two words. Such a plethora of unusual traits prompted us to send the watch to Rolex Geneva for a mechanical service (of course specifying not to touch case and dial), and the House promptly executed the overhaul, without raising any objection on any details of the watch, thus implying they deem it correct.
RO L E X Ref. 6612B Day-Date “Te Platinum Eclipse”
83.
A possibly unique and highly important platinum and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, black gloss dial, diamond-set round numerals and service guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1959
Reference No.
6612B, inside caseback stamped “6612” and “6613”
Movement No.
DDN884665
Case No.
446’052
Model Name
Day-date
Material
Platinum and diamond-set
Calibre
Automatic, cal. B1055, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex President bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex “Big Logo” deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “1.59”
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Geneva Service cards and Service letter dated October 14, 2019. Literature Another example of reference 6613 is pictured in “100 Superlative Rolex Watches” by John Goldberger, p. 163.
An idea of the rarity of this model, especially in platinum, is apparent when considering that the “Big Kahuna” 6612 ofered at the Glamorous Day-Date Phillips sale achieved what at the time was a world record for any Day-Date (LOT 43) at 473’000 CHF even though the record is now dethroned by the most famous Day-Date of all, the wristwatch that Jack Nicklaus, world renowned golf maestro wore for 50 years which was sold for 1.22 million USD in December at Phillips New York (Lot 18). The bracelet as well will delight the most discerning Rolex collectors, it is stamped 1.59, thus perfectly ftting with the production date of the watch. It also features a beautifully preserved clasp with all the traits that make Rolex collectors’ hearts beat faster - the big logo designation with four notches, large Rolex crown and an immaculate sandblast fnish found both in the foldable big logo metal plates and in the inner side of the clasp as well.
RO L E X Ref. 6612B Day-Date “Te Platinum Eclipse”
84.
An extremely rare and stunning pink gold and diamond-set wristwatch with black lacquer “tropical” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
1601
Movement No.
52434
Case No.
1’140’472
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K pink gold and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700
This Datejust features a number of details that separates it from the ordinary. Firstly, it displays a stunning lacquer dial that has turned to an even and rich brown tone over time. There is no telling how a dial will react over time and to fnd such a consistent and saturated “Tropical” tone is a real anomaly indeed. Secondly, the dial does not display any signs of cracking, which is incredibly rare for a lacquer dial, adding to its desirability and beauty. Finally, the combination of dagger and diamond markers are another rare detail that is very rarely found on Datejust models. The case is preserved in excellent condition with sharp hallmarks beneath the lug and crisp fnishes to the top of the lugs.
RO L E X Ref. 1601 Datejust “Te Glossy with Diamonds”
85.
A fne and very rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with moonphases, date, power reserve, bracelet, certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
3712
Movement No.
3’169’786
Case No.
4’300’558
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240/164, 29 jewels, stamped with
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet stamped
the Geneva Seal “A384BB” to the endlinks, max length 180mm, total length of 4 extra links 25mm Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $51,900-104,000 €47,400-94,800 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by Italian retailer F.B. Aurum S.N.C. and dated August 30, 2005, 4 extra links, setting pin, leather wallet, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 3712 was launched in 2005 and remained in production for approximately one year – some estimate as little as eight months - before being succeeded by ref. 5712 in 2006. It was at the time of its launch the frst truly complicated Nautilus, the date and moonphases notable upgrades from the power reserve complication of earlier ref. 3710. When presented
to the public, the highly asymmetric disposition of these functions on the dial raised more than an eyebrow, but the design - adopted nearly identical by its successor as well - has proven to be most successful. At frst glance, ref. 3712 appears quite similar to its successor, ref. 5712, but there are many noteworthy diferences when the watches’ details are examined. Most notably, the 3712 has a slightly smaller case measuring 42 mm in diameter as it is constructed using only two pieces compared with the more rounded, three piece, 43mm case of the 5712. The dial of the reference 3712 features wider grooves, or channels, and diferent hour markers than its successor. The most apparent diference is however that the date ring is smaller in reference 3712 allowing for the presence of a tiny 7 o’clock marker, absent in its successor. The dial is the setting for another quirk of this reference: not only its less-than-a-year production run is simply bafing, but it furthermore features an evolution during this short time, with two recognised series. - First series models, such as the present one, present three red dots in the power reserve indicator - Second series examples feature 4 dots, same as reference 5712. Appearing for the frst time at auction, and ofered by the original owner, the present timepiece can be considered without a doubt one of the centrepieces of any serious Patek Philippe Nautilus collection.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3712 Nautilus
86.
An attractive and rare pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date and “ofcer”-style hinged caseback with certifcate of origin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1999
Reference No.
5059R
Movement No.
1’957’580
Case No.
4’063’104
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315 S-QR, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∆ $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin, leather wallet and product literature.
Reference 5059 exudes a certain old world charm and restrained panache. This model was introduced in 1998 and produced for only 8 short years. It was produced in the last years of its sibling reference 5050, the frst serially produced perpetual calendar with a retrograde date. The pink gold case of the present watch is beautifully designed, curvaceous and gentle, the ofcer style case has a hinged caseback and elongated lugs with screwed pins. Though the case diameter measures 36 millimeters, the shape and size of the lugs, as well as the thickness of the case and its domed bezel, give the 5059 a signifcant presence on the wrist. The references 5050 and 5059 share the sophisticated, selfwinding caliber 315 S-QR with its striking 21K gold rotor, based on the caliber 315 SC featuring center seconds. A robust and state-of-the-art in-house movement, it features an intriguing retrograding date complication as part of its perpetual calendar function. At the end of each month, the date hand automatically fies back to its original starting point – a very difcult function to reliably implement in watchmaking. A complicated yet easily legible perpetual calendar, the “ffy ffy-nine” is an elegant and versatile watch ft for everyday wear.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5059R
87.
A large, rare and impressive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with Certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2007
Reference No.
5070R
Movement No.
3’363’542
Case No.
4’410’445
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27-70, 24 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, buckle and strap signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 ∑ $41,500-62,300 €37,900-56,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by California retailer Traditional Jewelers and dated June 20, 2007, numbered factory sleeve, numbered sale tag, leather wallet, product literature, numbered envelope, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
The Patek Philippe reference 5070 was the frst modern-era chronograph-only wristwatch released by the manufacture since the discontinuation of reference 1463 in the 1960s. Introduced in 1998 at Baselworld, it was something of a shock to collectors that Patek would choose to reintroduce a chronograph model in such bold fashion – particularly the 42mm case dimension and the dramatically thick, stepped bezel. A worthy and highly anticipated successor to the classic reference 1463 chronograph, the 5070 also features a waterresistant case with a screw-down case back. Though the case architecture assures a commanding presence, the warmth of the gold case renders this pink gold model somewhat of a hybrid between a full-fedged dress watch - as suggested by the case material and elegantly balanced dial and a sports chronograph - thanks to the large diameter, boldly stepped bezel and the presence of a tachymeter scale. The oversized Arabic numerals - reminiscent of aviators’ watches and one of the design elements carried over from the historical reference 2512, on which the 5070 is based - are rendered in rose gold, recalling the case material and bringing the warmth of pink gold to the dial as well. A highly sought-afer model in general, the desirability of the present example is boosted by its outstanding state of preservation and completeness, its owner being a very savvy collector who wore it a handful of times at most.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5070R
88.
A highly rare and attractive platinum annual calendar chronograph wristwatch with black dial, original certifcate, slip case and presentation box, factory sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2013
Reference No.
5960P
Movement No.
5’760’050
Case No.
4’638’549
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. CH 28-520, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 35,000-55,000 ∑ $36,300-57,100 €33,200-52,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated September 11, 2013, hangtag, setting pin, product literature, wallet, slip case, presentation box and outer packaging.
Stock Photo. For information purposes only
Introduced in 2006, reference 5960 was Patek Philippe’s frst automatic chronograph wristwatch to incorporate an annual calendar complication. The reference was frst launched in platinum with a grey dial. Patek Philippe later released variants in white gold, pink gold, and stainless steel. 2013 was the last year the platinum case was part of the ofcial collection - being replaced by steel in 2014. This "monochrome black” version was in catalogue only for that one year, as a sort of informal swan song of the 5960P. It is now one of the most sought-afer variations of the reference. Factory sealed, the present watch is accompanied by all its original accessories such as the Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated September 11, 2013, setting pin, hang tag, product literature, leather wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5960P “Sealed”
89.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moonphases, certifcate of origin and hangtag, factory sealed
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2008
Reference No.
5159J
Movement No.
3’410’601
Case No.
4’436’077
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 ∑ $25,900-46,700 €23,700-42,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated April 2, 2008, hang tag and setting pin.
Stock Photo. For information purposes only
The perpetual calendar has always been a cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s grand complications. Patek Philippe introduced reference 5159 in 2007. Displaying larger case than its predecessor reference 5059, reference 5159 most notably houses an automatic movement with a perpetual calendar function. It features a 38 millimeter ofcer-style case, along with a beautifully designed hand-guilloché dial displaying a retrograde date. Featuring an amalgamation of both classic and innovative design cues, reference 5159 is a true classic in Patek Philippe’s lineage of perpetual calendar models. Most incredibly, the present watch is factory sealed, and is complete with its original certifcate, hang tag and setting pin. It is a rare opportunity to acquire a discontinued timepiece in completely new condition.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5159J “Sealed”
90.
A very rare, impressive and important yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1967
Reference No.
3448
Movement No.
1’119’073
Case No.
319’068
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal 27-460Q, 37 jewels, stamped twice
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet,
with the Geneva Seal max length 195mm Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Provenance Property of the descendant of the original owner Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with bracelet that was replaced during a servicing and its subsequent sale on October 4, 1967. Furthermore accompanied by photocopies of service invoice at Patek Philippe.
When a previously unknown timepiece is rediscovered by the community, it provides a serendipitous reason for celebration. Such is the case of this timepiece: reference 3448, the very frst automatic perpetual calendar made in series by Patek Philippe.
Furthermore, the present specimen is not a standard version of the model, but it features a remarkably attractive bracelet, the Extract confrming it was indeed originally sold with a yellow gold bracelet. The identity of the original owner adds moreover a layer of historical appeal to the watch. This fne timepiece was the property of engineer Juan Francisco Otaola Pavan, one of the most successful Venezuelan civil engineers of all times, and whose name “Dr. J. Otaola P.” is engraved to the back of the piece. As expected from a man of such rigour, he took utmost care of this watch - which was ofered to him personally by Mr. Philippe Stern, according to his descendant - and kept it in excellent shape. In fact, during the last service at Patek Philippe in 2000, in order to maintain the freshness and stunning look of the watch, Dr. Otaola demanded a new dial and bracelet to be ftted onto the piece. Dr. Otaola was an extremely accomplished civil engineer, active throughout the second half of the past century. He worked mostly on bridges but did not disdain branching of on other kind of constructions. Beftting his passion for timepieces, one must mention that Dr. Otaola , also realised the “Torre del Reloj” (clock tower) of Central University of Venezuela. He was posthumously awarded in 2001 the “Premio Construcción” by the Cámara Venezolana de la Construcción - the Venezuelan Chamber of Builders. Reference 3448 was launched in 1962 and remained in production for twenty years, before being replaced by its descendant reference 3450 which features a leap year indication. It was made in yellow, white and pink gold for a total of only 586 pieces.
A photograph of the original owner, Juan Francisco Otaola Pavan
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3448 “One Owner Family Padellone”
91.
MOVADO — A very rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bespoke dial, made for Abdul Aziz Al Saud, King of Saudi Arabia
Manufacturer
Movado
Year
Circa 1950
Reference No.
R9026
Case No.
A101974
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. C90M, jeweled
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Gilt pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 2,000-4,000 $2,100-4,200 â‚Ź1,900-3,800
A long standing tradition in Middle-Eastern countries, wristwatches have long been used as tokens of appreciation on behalf of ruling monarchs. The fascination of the Arab world with fne timepieces is further highlighted by the fact that some military institution and governmental departments requested and obtained bespoke timepieces bearing insignia or department names on the dial.
The present watch perfectly exemplifes this trend. Ofered in exceedingly honest condition with an absolutely unpolished case, the dial of this timepiece is personalised with the green Saudi swords and palm at 6 o’clock, and the designation name of the Saudi ruler Abdul Aziz Al Saud, King of the realm from 1932 to 1953, at 12. It is a more than educated guess that the present piece was ofered by the King in recognition of services made to the country or possibly as token of friendship to a diplomat. Given the overall condition of the watch and the rarity of such a bespoken royal dial, the present watch represents an exceedingly rare value proposition for the collector of rare vintage timepieces.
92.
MOVADO — A rare pink gold Chinese triple calendar wristwatch with black dial, fancy lugs and box
Manufacturer
Movado
Year
Circa 1946
Reference No.
4820
Case No.
477’772
Model Name
“Calendograph”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal.475, 15 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Movado pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 2,000-3,000 ∙ $2,100-3,100 €1,900-2,800 Accessories Accompanied by an unsigned ftted presentation box.
In 1945, Movado developed the caliber 475 which had the particularity of being composed of two elements: the base movement on top of which an additional calendar mechanism was placed. Although available with a vast variety of dial and case confgurations, the major part of the production of these calendar wristwatches, named “Calendograph” were produced with a grey dial displaying the day and month in a European language. The present subtle pink gold wristwatch with fancy lugs displays a striking black glossy dial beautifully adorned by elongated pink gold Arabic numerals, but what really diferentiates the present watch from its peers are the day and month discs in Chinese. Most probably intended to be sold in China, the present watch has hardly seen any wear and is presented today in almost mint condition.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
93.
A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with chocolate brown ‘tropical’ dial, tachometer bezel and original presentation box
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1959
Reference No.
2998-1
Movement No.
17’301’000
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $25,900-46,700 €23,700-42,700 Accessories Accompanied by presentation box. Furthermore, this watch is ofered with an Extract from the Archives confrming its production date on November 10, 1959 and delivery to France.
A true horological icon, the Omega Speedmaster has been captivating collectors for over 60 years. The reference 2998 was launched in 1959 to replace the original reference 2915 and was in production for only 3 short years as production ceased in 1962 (even though some examples were still being delivered the year afer).
Small modifcations (diferent hands, bezels or dials) were made to reference 2998 throughout its production period, each modifcation being defned by the number afer the hyphen in the reference number inscribed in the caseback. In this case: 2998-1 meaning it was the frst iteration of this reference. However, even more exciting is the fact that with movement number 17’301’000 this is the earliest reference 2998 known and could possibly be the very frst ever produced giving it incredible historical importance. Released in 1959, early examples like the present watch used the famed Lemania caliber 321, which is revered amongst watch enthusiasts for its robust chronograph mechanism. The manual wound caliber was used by Omega from 1946-1968 ofering optimal performance and reliability. Fitted with its original black tachometer bezel graduated to 1000 units and a lollipop chronograph seconds hand the watch features an amazing dial that has turned a surprising milk chocolate color giving the watch incredible charisma and appeal. The overall appealing condition, compelling dial and historical relevance will make this reference 2998-1 a must have in a collection of rare vintage watches.
OMEGA Ref. 2998-1 Speedmaster “Tropical”
94.
A rare and attractive stainless steel oversized pilot’s fyback chronograph wristwatch with central registers made for the Israeli Defense Forces
Manufacturer
Longines
Year
1958
Reference No.
5824
Movement No.
9’938’976
Case No.
Caseback stamped א.ח. (abbreviation for the Israeli
Model Name
Chronostop
Material
Stainless steel
example being one of the rarest variants as it was made for the Israeli Defense Force. Known in Hebrew as Tzahal, the IDF includes all branches of Israel’s military forces, comprising the ground forces, air force and navy. The military engraving on the caseback א.ח. (abbreviation for the Airforce) followed by 540, documents the fact that it was an issued timepiece.
Airforce) followed by issue number 540
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12.68Z, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
47mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $25,900-46,700 €23,700-42,700 Accessories Accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confrming the present watch was invoiced on 11 April 1958 to the company Scharfstein, which was their agent in Tel-Aviv at the time. Further accompanied by a letter from Baruch Halachmi describing his career as an airforce pilot as well as his fight logs. Literature The reference 5824 is illustrated in Longines - Legendary Watches by John Goldberger pp 278-279.
Military issued watches, such as the present lot, are quite rare and highly sought afer. As one of Switzerland’s largest manufacturers, Longines was an important supplier of wristwatches to militaries of multiple nations, the present
The watch was issued to Baruch Halachmi, an IDF fghter pilot who graduated from the academy in 1962 and remained an active fghter pilot with over 1000 fight hours, until his retirement in 1985. The present timepiece presents all the elements one can expect from a pilot’s timepiece: large diameter, black dial with luminous Arabic numerals for optimum readability in all conditions, large onion crown to allow winding of the watch while wearing aviator’s gloves; and the rotating bezel to allow navigational calculations. Technically, cal. 12.68Z is not only a direct ancestor of hallowed cal. 13ZN, but it furthermore features central chronographic registers disposition, a highly unusual and eye catching solution which grants the watch absolute balance. The watch is named Stopseconde as the pusher at 2 o’clock has two functions: if pressed lightly, it stops the chronograph - thus allowing for accurate readings - and further depressing it resets the chronograph - thus allowing for extremely simple and fast operations, vital to a pilot. The present lot is an outstanding, rarely seen example of a Longines “IDF” that will appeal to the collector of military timepieces and is further delivered with the fight logs of Baruch Halachmi.
LONGINES Ref. 5824 “Israeli Defense Forces”
95.
An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel anti-magnetic diver’s wristwatch with humidity indicator
Manufacturer
Tornek-Rayville
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
TR-900
Model Name
Tornek-Rayville U.S.
Material
Sandblasted steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. AS 1361, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
NATO
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-90,000 $41,500-93,400 €37,900-85,300 Accessories Accompanied by an analysis report made by Blancpain Heritage Department.
In the early 1950s, Bob Maloubier, co-founder of the French Navy’s Combat Diver corps was looking for a professional dive watch for his elite troops. In this quest, he analyzed many watches available on the market but could not fnd one that exactly met his requirements. He, consequently decided to create one that would comply with all the military specifcations for underwater missions. His next quest would be to fnd a manufacture that would accept to bring this project to life. He found in Mr Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain CEO at the time, and recreational diver, a perfect partner to produce this watch.
Used by the French army, the Fify Fathoms would soon be noticed by armies around the world. When the US Army was looking for a dive watch for its troops, Blancpain knew they had the right tool but the “Buy American Act” would not allow the brand to ofer its Swiss made watch. A fortunate collaboration with a New York based diamond dealer by the name of Alan Tornek allowed the Fify Fathoms to go under sufcient manufacturing processes in the US to be considered an American product. Despite passing the technical tests, the model was considered too expensive and in 1964, the US government did not renew its order and production was abandoned. A few years later, Alan Tornek made a new ofer to the US Navy with a new batch. Cautiously, Tornek Rayville (Blancpain’s American subsidiary) only delivered a very small amount of this order which proved to be a safe bet as the US Navy rejected the project due to its cost. Most of the TR900s were destroyed by the United States government and a few that were not issued, were sold, like the present example, to civilians. The extremely good condition of this watch tends to prove that it has never seen any battle feld nor was used on any dangerous mission. The portion dedicated to the stamp of the issue numbers on the caseback is lef blank as one can expect. Considered by many as one of the rarest and most sought afer dive watches, the present Tornek Rayville TR900 would be the pinnacle of any professional wristwatch collection.
TO R N E K R AY V I L L E Ref. TR-900 Tornek-Rayville U.S.
96.
An incredible spider shaped palladium plated brass table or wall clock
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
2015
Reference No.
76.6000/114
Case No.
31538
Model Name
Arachnophobia Black
Material
Palladium plated brass
Calibre
Manual, L’Epée in-house caliber
Dimensions
Legs extended: 203mm Height Legs fat: 405mm Diameter
Signed
Body and movement signed
Estimate CHF 7,000-12,000 $7,300-12,500 €6,600-11,400 Accessories Accompanied by transportation box, gloves, user manual, guarantee and winding key.
Arachnophobia, meaning extreme or irrational fear of spiders, is a name that speaks for itself. Some specialists say that to overcome a phobia, one must face it. But the birth of this creature did not come from a therapeutic goal, but as an avid art buf and creative mind, Maximilian Büsser’s inspiration came from Louise Bourgeois’ giant spider’s sculpture called Maman.
Engineered and manufactured by L’Epée 1839, Arachnophobia is a marvel of technicity and an artistic piece of art. The eight legs of the giant spider are articulated thanks to ball–andsocket joints, to give the creation a natural look. The creature can be placed either on a fat surface but can also be hung on a wall providing an optical treat for fans of large arachnids. As each leg can move independently, it allows for multiple position, from fat to tall or even to the most menacing position, with the two front leg standing up in the air. The hours and minutes are displayed on a black dome composing the Arachnophobia’s body with MB&F’s signature white numerals and rotating curved hands. The side of the body allows the curious owner to admire a beautifully fnished movement, with Côtes de Genève, polishing, sand-blasting, anglage, and circular and vertical satin fnishing. The spider’s head houses the regulator with its oscillating balance wheel and a pair of jaws. The movement has an 8-day power reserve and to wind it, the owner has to turn it upside down to reach the underside creating a close relationship with its spider. A creature like none of his previous creations, Arachnophobia is a fascinating high end table clock composed of 218 components. Created for afcionados of the unusual or watch enthusiasts, this timepiece will for sure attract the attention of anybody entering the room!
MB&F Arachnophobia
97.
A very unusual stainless steel wristwatch with orbiting hour, AM/PM display, frisbee, box, certifcate of origin, extra pin buckle and extra deployant clasp
Manufacturer
Ressence
Year
2012
Reference No.
1001/1101
Case No.
023/150
Model Name
Type 1001 Series One
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, modifed cal. 2824, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,200-8,300 â‚Ź4,700-7,600 Accessories Accompanied by Ressence presentation box, original booklet with Certifcate of Purchase, Certifcate of Origin, an extra pin buckle and an extra Ressence deployant clasp.
Fruit of the creative mind of industrial designer Benoit Minitiens, Ressence ofers a fresh and innovative way of reading time. The history of the Belgian brand started at Baselworld in 2010 where three functional Swiss made prototypes were presented. A year later, a limited edition of 50 pieces of the Series Zero was ofered and in 2012, based on the success of this frst limited edition, Ressence introduced the Series One, a 150 pieces limited edition. The present watch is the number 23 of the Series One. This stainless steel horological UFO is a pure marvel of design that shakes the traditional watchmaking codes. Instead of having a dial on which hands would rotate, it is the entire structure of the dial that moves with 4 independent subdials to display hours, minutes, seconds and AM/PM. Another distinctive feature of the very early references is the presence of a crown on the side of the case, which would disappear in later generations. Whilst many independent watchmakers explore alternative ways of reading time, Ressence is considered by many collectors to have one of the most innovative yet legible displays. Presented in excellent condition and accompanied by its box, original documentation and two extra clasps, the present watch would be a great addition to any watch collection.
RESSENCE Type 1001 Series One
98.
A fne blackened aluminum limited edition wristwatch with date, power reserve and day and night indicator, made to commemorate Jean Alesi’s participation in the Indianapolis 500 in 2012
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
2012
Case No.
587 - ARS
Model Name
Octa Automatique Réserve Sport Indy 500
Material
Blackened Aluminum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1300.3, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Black F.P. Journe rubber strap, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Aluminum F.P. Journe double folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by a polishing cloth. Literature F.P Journe Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz is dedicated to Journe and his oeuvre.
F.P. Journe whose creations embody the glory of 18th century watchmaking took the horological world by surprise when in 2011 he introduced a “Sports “ line of models in ultra-light aluminum cases and as the names implied a more sporty dial confguration and colors. According to Journe the collection was inspired by an important collector of the brand, himself a dedicated sportsman, looking for an ultra-light sports watch with a haute horlogerie movement. The present watch is part of an ultra-limited run of only 99 watches made in 2012 (from numbers 501-599) to celebrate the famed Formula 1 driver Jean Alesi’s participation in the Indianapolis 500 Miles race. Made in blackened aluminum, 29 pieces featured the Indy 500, Lotus and Jean Alesi logos on the dial whereas the other 70, like the present lot did not. Featuring large luminescent Arabic numerals, power reserve indicator, large date and day/night indicator the red elements give the watch a defnitely active look. Impressively not only is the case made of ultra-light blackened aluminum but even more surprisingly the movement as well, the latter fnished beautifully with polished angles and Geneva waves. An amazing technical feat leading to the fact that the watch weights less than 55 grams…strap included! The present Octa Automatique Réserve Sport Indy 500 features all the elements one can expect from Journe and so much more, it is elegant, resolutely contemporary with an impeccably designed and fnished movement in a material rarely- if ever seen in contemporary watchmaking.
F. P. J O U R N E Octa Automatique Réserve Sport Indy 500
99.
A very elegant white gold travel time automatic wristwatch with date, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Laurent Ferrier
Year
2015
Movement No.
007
Model Name
Galet Traveller
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. LF230.01, 48 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Laurent Ferrier deployant clasp
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $25,900-46,700 €23,700-42,700 Accessories Accompanied by Laurent Ferrier Guarantee card stamped by Singapore retailer The Hourglass and dated October 27, 2015, instruction manual, loupe, etched metal card depicting the time zones of the world polishing cloth, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
At an age when most men would take advantage of their retirement, Laurent Ferrier set on a long and winding road to create his own brand. A trained watchmaker, Laurent Ferrier spent close to 37 years in product development at Patek Philippe, taking only a short yet exciting break in order to pursue his passion for automobile racing, a stint punctuated by a podium fnish at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979 right behind none other than Paul Newman!
Ferrier presented his frst watch in 2010, the Galet Classique, a superbly classical yet suave timepiece with a phenomenally gorgeous and painstakingly hand decorated tourbillon movement. His vision of pure elegant designs and superbly fnished movements has made the brand a favourite amongst afcionados of independent watchmaking. The Galet Traveller is a superb modern take on the Patek Philippe dual time reference 2597 from the 1960s with two buttons on the case side that once pressed will move the hour hand backward or forward by one hour to set time in a new time zone, home time being elegantly displayed via an aperture at 9 o’clock whilst the date is indicated at 3 o’clock. The present example of Galet Traveller, fully embodies the timeless elegance Mr. Ferrier imbues his creations with. The large, very legible and clean dial presents somewhat of a sectorial design, with a clean center and a generously proportioned outer minute divisions ring. The thin daggershaped numerals cut through the division between the two parts of the dial, adding movement, fair and modernity to the ensemble. The case as well is absolutely timeless, featuring smooth clean lines and a nod to the earliest roots of portable watches in the onion crown. The Galet Traveller features a double direct-impulse natural escapement (an escapement devised by Breguet in the late 18th century and which very few watchmakers have managed to recreate) using two nickel phosphorous escape wheels and a silicon lever as ensuring better distribution of energy.The present piece is ofered in virtually as-new condition and complete with its superbly fnished “travel box” and accessories.
L AU R E N T F E R R I E R Galet Traveller
100.
An incredibly attractive titanium chronograph prototype wristwatch with centrally mounted chronograph hands
Manufacturer
Singer Reimagined
Year
Circa 2017
Model Name
Track 1 Launch Edition Prototype
Material
Titanium
Calibre
Automatic, AGH6361, 67 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather NATO
Clasp/Buckle
Titanium pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm Diameter
Signed
Dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by a ftted box and an Attestation of Authenticity and Provenance.
Singer Vehicle Design are three words that push the heart rate of petrolheads to overdrive. Known for creating custom Porsche 911s of incredible appeal they decided to create a watch infused with their genetic codes. Singer Reimagined is the brainchild of 3 powerhouses: Singer founder Rob Dickinson (for metal fans he is the cousin of Iron Maiden’s front man Bruce Dickinson), watch designer Marco Borraccino and master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of Agenhor. The result is the Track 1 Launch Edition of which the present example is the original prototype. This piece of horological mastery defnitely has the look and feel of a fuel injected high
velocity machinery. The case is unabashedly 1970s in design and the dial looks like a speedometer on a 911 dashboard with two centrally mounted orange hands. These hands are in fact the chronograph counters, the large hand being the seconds counter and the smaller one the minutes counter. Time is read via two rotating aluminum discs that rotate clockwise indicating hours and minutes via an orange marker at 6 o’clock. The movement, developed by Widerrecht is incredible in its architecture and construction. Many innovative elements are featured in this movement, frst of all having centrally mounted chronograph hands required the movement to be …reimagined, the power distribution and smoothness of the pushers have been worked, and a smart use of a system merging the vertical and the horizontal clutch ofers here the best of both worlds. Finally, and ingeniously to avoid obstruction of the view on the movement the automatic winding rotor has been placed under the dial. We are delighted to ofer the prototype of this groundbreaking model which difers from the commercially ofered models notably in the case design and the fact that there are no engravings on the caseback. A certifcate from Singer Reimagined attests to this. Combining innovative technology with cutting-edge design, the present Track 1 Prototype represents the acme of what contemporary horology can ofer at its most exciting.
SINGER Track 1 Launch Edition Prototype
101.
An extremely fne and rare platinum wristwatch with tourbillon, remontoire d’égalite, souscription contract and box, numbered 14 of a 20 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
1999
Case No.
14/20
Model Name
Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1498, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-300,000 $156,000-311,000 €142,000-284,000 Accessories Accompanied by undated Souscription contract detailing the purchase of the watch signed by F. P. Journe, two additional F.P. Journe leather straps, product leafet, two technical printouts, polishing cloth, ftted wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
It is interesting to see than in less than 20 years, François-Paul Journe has established himself as one of the most prominent living watchmakers, and his creations coveted by collectors the world over. Journe likes to joke that he might have been a butcher if his cousin were not the head of the watchmaking school of Marseilles. The truth is, afer having been expelled from school, his parents placed him in the watchmaking program headed
by his cousin. As a result of his aptitudes, Journe continued his studies in Paris joining his uncle’s restoration workshop following his graduation, where he got the opportunity to restore some of the most important timepieces in horological history. In 1985 he set up his own workshop creating bespoke pocket watches for top collectors. Fascinated by tourbillon watches, Journe decided to transpose Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention into a wristwatch but also to improve it via the addition of a remontoire system - a constant force device used to provide an equal amount of energy disregarding the winding level of the mainspring, thus resulting in greater accuracy and amplitude. The frst prototype was made in 1991 and to fnance his project and create a version that would be commercially available (ultimately launched in 1999) Journe used a subscription system for his frst twenty tourbillon wristwatches, each individually numbered on the dial and ofered to his close friends and clients. The present tourbillon bears number 14/20, and not only is it ofered in excellent condition, it furthermore comes with the original souscription contract as well as technical drawings, signed by Journe himself, thus providing an intriguing insight into the early days of what is today considered one of the foremost independent watchmakers. To own one of Journe’s subscription tourbillons equals to owning a piece of horological history. It is an opportunity that rarely presents itself as the present model is just one of a handful to ever grace the international auction market.
F. P. J O U R N E Tourbillon Souverain Souscription
102.
ROLEX — A rare and well-preserved stainless steel and yellow gold dual time wristwatch with black dial, date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1982
Reference No.
16753
Movement No.
0’760’244
Case No.
7’204’521
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3075, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold and stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 4,000-8,000 $4,200-8,300 €3,800-7,600
Reference 16753 is a rare variant within the GMT family as it is cased in both stainless steel and yellow gold. The digit “3” at the end of the reference number refers to the use of bi-metal in the case. This variant displays a stunning black dial and black bezel, giving the timepiece a striking appearance. This timepiece is preserved in particularly stunning condition, with sharp satin fnishes on the top of the lugs and crisp edges. The proportions are robust, and the bevels are wide and visible. Even the case back retains a strong satin fnish. Coming from an extremely distinguished private collection, the watch is furthermore complemented by an attractive 18K yellow gold and stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet.
103.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An extremely well-preserved stainless steel and yellow gold wristwatch with white dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1994
Reference No.
3800/1
Movement No.
1’933’089
Case No.
2’936’984
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K yellow gold and stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 330 SC, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold and stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-24,000 $12,500-24,900 €11,400-22,800 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1994 with ceramic white dial, 11 applied yellow gold indexes and bracelet in steel and yellow gold and its subsequent sale on March 3, 1995.
Slightly smaller than its older sibling reference 3700, reference 3800 is an incredibly compact and chic version of the original Nautilus. In production between 1981 and 2006, the reference 3800 was the mid-sized version in the legendary Patek Philippe Nautilus series. This attractive and exceedingly well-preserved stainless steel and yellow gold example displays a beautiful ceramic white dial, which is confrmed by the Extract from the Archives. It is preserved in excellent condition with crisp bevels and sharp edges throughout. Furthermore, the yellow gold bezel has developed a layer of aesthetically pleasing patina, showing how the watch has seen no intervention for a very long time.
104.
An incredibly rare and attractive diamond and ruby set yellow gold wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2007
Reference No.
3800/123
Movement No.
3’027’920
Case No.
2’960’539
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds and rubies
Calibre
Automatic, cal 330SC, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800, launched in the early 1980s, was the frst evolution of the original Nautilus reference 3700 presented just a few years earlier. Whereas the original reference 3700 was fercely masculine, reference 3800 showed more restraint with a smaller diameter of 37.5 millimeters. While smaller in size, the Nautilus reference 3800 maintained all the design cues of its older brother, with its porthole inspired case and integrated metal bracelet. The major change was the addition of a seconds hand indicating a mechanical evolution with the adoption of the Patek Philippe caliber 335 SC and variants.
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400
The Nautilus being considered a more casual ofering from Patek Philippe, it was predominantly cased in steel with a few exceptions, in gold, or in steel and gold. However, gemset versions like the present model are extremely rare.
Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe extract from the Archives confrming date of manufacture of the present watch in 2007 and its subsequent sale on September 24, 2008, further accompanied by Patek Philippe presentation box.
In fact the reference 3800-123J is so rare that only 2 examples are known, and the present example is the only one housing the caliber 330. Incredibly attractive, refned with an air of calm luxury the watch stands out with its excellent condition and playful use of diamonds and rubies for the hour markers which enhances its incredible rarity.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E One of Two Known Ref. 3800/123 Nautilus
105.
A rare, unusual and extremely attractive white gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with yellow mother-of-pearl dial, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2001
Reference No.
116519
Case No.
K637759
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Beach”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Yellow Rolex lizard strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 ∑ $25,900-51,900 €23,700-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card, product literature, green document holder, additional black leather and brand new additional lizard yellow Rolex strap, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
For a very short time in the early 2000s, Rolex produced one of the most surprising, attractive and unusual variations of the Cosmograph Daytona: the so-called “Daytona Beach”. It was released in four diferent colors. As it ofen happens with many appreciated models in Rolex’s rich history, these pieces were originally regarded with a mix of surprise and amazement to their iconoclastic looks, but not much warmth. Only in recent years their undisputed beauty has been truly rediscovered and appreciated, making them not only one of the most collectible modern Daytona models, but also one of the most wearable indeed due to their carefree and playful appeal. Once again, Rolex proved themselves not only capable of anticipating fashion trends, but also brave enough to actually put such daring ideas to the test of the market. Such a situation will be repeated with uncanny similarity, about a decade and a half later, when the House introduced the “Rainbow” Daytona. The present yellow example is a rare opportunity for the collector: ofered complete of its sale kit but especially in absolutely unused condition, still bearing unmarred its green factory sticker.
RO L E X Ref. 116519 Cosmograph Daytona “Beach”
106.
A rare and attractive white gold and diamond-set chronograph wristwatch with original guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2008
Reference No.
116589
Movement No.
C0’167’526
Case No.
K’593’828
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K white gold and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 35,000-55,000 ∑ $36,300-57,100 €33,200-52,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated April 3, 2008 and vintage Rolex box.
Excluding the mythical reference 6270 and 6269, Rolex hardly ever embellished their chronograph models with precious stones. Yet, with the introduction of the automatic Daytona, the manufacture gradually incorporated elaborate Daytona designs to their line of production, due to changing tastes in the market. Fitted with a baguette diamond-set bezel and diamond-set numerals, the present watch combines Rolex’s gif in gemsetting and creating beautiful movements. Known for their rigorous standards in quality, Rolex is particularly skilled at creating gem-set watches, whether it be a lavishly-set DayDate, or a an eye-catching and striking SARU GMT. Reference 116589 is cased in white gold and is ftted with the Rolex inhouse movement, caliber 4130. The case is preserved in excellent condition, with a strong hallmark on the bottom of the lug. All gold marks remain present and crisp. The watch furthermore retains its original green factory sticker, attesting to its original condition. It is furthermore accompanied by its original guarantee, stating the watch was sold in 2008 in Firenze, Italy.
RO L E X Ref. 116589 Cosmograph Daytona
107.
An outstanding, important and very rare white gold and gem-set automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1987
Reference No.
3800/108
Movement No.
1’426’007
Case No.
2’824’029
Model Name
Nautilus
Material
18K white gold, diamond and sapphire-set
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 335 SC, 29 jewels, stamped with
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold and diamond-set Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1987 with diamond Pavé, 3/4 sapphire hour markers and 1220 diamonds, and its subsequent sale on May 13, 1987.
Bejewelled timepieces have been for a long time “sleepers” in the world of watch collecting. It is only in recent years that the market rediscovered them for the form of industrial art they represent: the gem setting standard achieved by top end watchmakers easily rivals that of the most important jewellers and the aesthetic power of these timepieces is ofen breathtaking.
Spurred by the introduction of iconic contemporary pieces such as the Gem-set Nautilus and the Rolex Rainbow, gem-set watches are fnally reaching a level of collectability equal to that of their less adorned siblings. Patek Philippe has always taken enormous pride in the gem-setting standard achieved in its workshops, even when bejewelled timepieces were either diminutive ladies watches or hard-to-sell large-size pieces. The present watch exemplifes the attention to detail and overall superb mastery of the craf achieved by the company. A fully bejewelled Nautilus from the year 1987 is also testament to Patek Philippe’s market strategy: even at a time when gem-set watches were less popular, they decided to create fully diamond-encrusted Nautilus versions, possibly as “statement pieces”. It is no surprise that the model did not fnd many clients, and it is thus one of the rarest Nautilus versions ever made. So far, only fve examples 3800/108 have resurfaced on the public market. A closer look at the watch highlights not only the aforementioned superb gem-setting skill of Patek Philippe artisans, but also the attention to detail of their design department. For example, when looking at the tiny sliver of case between the lugs, one notices that it is too narrow for diamonds to be set in it. So, in order to minimise the diference in looks with the adjacent gem-set lugs’ topside, the band is hand engraved with tiny dots mimicking the sparkling efect of diamond pavé.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 3800/108 Nautilus “Full Pavé Sapphires and Diamonds”
108.
A spectacular and very rare white gold and gem-set dual-time automatic wristwatch with center second, date, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2009
Reference No.
116759SARU
Movement No.
1’886’629
Case No.
M720877
Model Name
GMT-Master II SARU
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3186, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $41,500-83,000 €37,900-75,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee card stamped by Monaco retailer “Zegg & Cerlati” and dated April 4, 2009, card holder, worldwide service booklet, Rolex “faux seal” tag, massive presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered with Rolex Service card dated June 11, 2018.
This variation of the GMT-Master II model is dressed with breathtaking baguette-cut rubies, diamonds and sapphires to the bezel and brilliant-cut diamonds to the lugs. Even the most cursory glance at the gem-set bezel is enough to appreciate the superb level of skill achieved by Rolex jewellers: the gems perfectly ft the bezel and are secured with what can be dubbed “invisible setting”, leaving absolutely no gap between each stone. Remarkable, the design itself is as impressive as its execution: it is no easy feat to adorn a sport’s watch with gems without landing into gaudy territories, but with this watch Rolex managed to achieve a perfect balance between the sporty ethos of the watch and its dazzling decoration. In fact, the gem-set bezel has a sheen and “glossiness” of sorts which are actually reminiscent of the early bakelite bezels. This piece is ofered complete of all its accessories and in virtually “as-new” condition. Even under a mechanical point of view it can be considered in top shape: it was fully serviced by Rolex no longer than 2 years ago, in 2018.
RO L E X Ref. 116759 GMT-Master II SARU
109.
An extremely rare, important and impressive platinum and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds, burgundy “Stella” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1972
Reference No.
1804
Movement No.
DD’726’556
Case No.
3’773’511
Model Name
Day-Date “Octopussy”
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum and diamond-set Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $156,000-259,000 €142,000-237,000
Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date is one of the most recognizable and versatile wristwatches available in the market. It is a model that can be worn by both men and women, and over its 60 year history has been produced in a number of variations ranging from standard unadorned examples, to those with lacquered dials or gem-set, and it was made in stainless steel, platinum and all gold metals. The present wristwatch is an extremely rare example in platinum with diamond-set dial, diamond-set President’s bracelet, and rare stunning burgundy Stella dial. Platinum is one of the rarest case metals for any “Octopussy”. Thus, this example is particularly singular as it displays baguette numerals as well. Rolex produced these dials from the 1960s until the 1990s. Using a multi-layering lacquer technique, the dials form a vibrant and rich color. Manufactured in 1972, the bezel has 46 round cut diamonds, and the bracelet is a work of art, and is afectionately referred to by collectors as “Octopussy”. The outer edges of the links have prominent raised round-cut diamonds framing a raised baguette-cut diamond to the center, with the round, cylindrically set diamonds resembling the suction cups of an octopus. Without a doubt, it can be considered amongst the most lavish and most exclusive examples of the Day-Date sold during this era. For a collector that likes a little bling, this Octopussy is a dream come true.
RO L E X Ref. 1804 Day-Date “Platinum Octopussy”
Session two 28 June 2020, 5pm Lots 110–214
110.
ROLEX — A very rare and extremely attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 2017
Reference No.
116508
Movement No.
Z’2463’2A5
Case No.
5X’9G9’039
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∙ $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700
This Cosmograph Daytona is ftted with a beautiful and striking champagne dial and is cased in yellow gold. While the model can be found with a variety of dial designs, this variant is particularly eye-catching and bold and even recalls the aesthetic of the vintage manual wind Daytonas of the 1970s and 1980s. Heavy and lavish, reference 116508 is a luxurious version of the stainless steel Cosmograph Daytona. Fitted with the Rolex caliber 4130, reference 116508 is an updated and modern version of the reference 16528. It retains the DNA of the original automatic model with its graduated bezel, Oyster bracelet, and “Daytona” designation above the 6 o’clock register. Presented in excellent and unpolished condition, this watch is ofered without reserve.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
111.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “fat four” bezel, hangtag, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2004
Reference No.
16610LV
Movement No.
39’985’085
Case No.
F’219’178
Model Name
Submariner “Flat Four Kermit”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $15,600-31,100 €14,200-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, anchor, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
To celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, Rolex for the frst time released a new Submariner model with a bold and charismatic green bezel, which became instantly popular among collectors worldwide. While the reference is discontinued today, it still enjoys enormous popularity among collectors’ circles. Preserved in virtually new old stock condition, this reference 16610 “Kermit” retains its stickers on the caseband, caseback and even clasp. Unpolished and virtually unworn, it retains all original factory specifcations. It most notably has a “fat four” bezel, which can only be found on earliest generation reference 16610LVs. Due to its rarity, this variant is particularly popular among collectors today. The present example is furthermore ofered with its original accessories such as the guarantee, wallet, product literature and presentation box.
112.
OMEGA — An extremely rare and impressive platinum automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, co-axial escapement, salmon dial, Guarantee and box. Number 34 of a 99 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1999
Reference No.
39905006
Movement No.
56’662’180
Case No.
60’338’809, lim ed. no.: 34/99
Model Name
De Ville Co-Axial
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2500, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Omega alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Omega deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, clasp and strap signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 ∑ $5,200-10,400 €4,700-9,500 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Certifcate of Authenticity, Guarantee card stamped by Omega boutique in Bienne, product literature, document holder and ftted presentation box.
George Daniels is the undisputed horological lighthouse of 20th century. Not only is he recognised as a technical master, he was undoubtedly the frst of what is today a prominent category in the market: independent watchmakers. Daniels’ legacy is beyond remarkable, and arguably his masterpiece - from a technical standpoint - is the co-axial escapement.
A truly innovative device, it was invented by Daniels in 1974 and patented in 1980. The frst truly new escapement since the invention of the lever escapement in the 18th century by Thomas Mudge, it dramatically reduces - nearly cancels friction for improved performance and durability. Daniels sold the patent to Omega in 1993 and was personally involved in the 6 year design and perfecting process which yielded in 1999 the frst three watches featuring the new escapement: two gold versions in yellow and rose gold (each limited to 999 pieces) and an ultra-limited 99 pieces series in platinum, exemplifed by the present watch. Ofered in excellent condition and complete with all its accessories, the present watch is a momentous opportunity for the connoisseur of fne watchmaking to own a truly revolutionary timepiece whose development was personally overseen by the greatest watchmaking master of the past century.
113.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An elegant and rare white gold automatic annual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, moonphases, power reserve indication, certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5146G
Movement No.
5’854’518
Case No.
6’036’903
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324, 36 jewels, stamped with
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe leather strap
the Patek Philippe Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∙ $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by retailer and dated September 19, 2017, product literature, leather wallet, setting pin, polishing cloth, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched in 2005, reference 5146 is the second wristwatch model made by Patek Philippe featuring an annual calendar function. The model replaced reference 5035 which was launched in 1996, at the time the frst serially produced annual calendar model ever made.
Before this innovation, watchmakers were ofering either highly complicated perpetual calendar pieces or relatively simple triple calendar watches. Reference 5146 maintains intact the aesthetic canons of the original reference 5035, distinguished by three subsidiary counters at 2, 6 and 10 o’clock, but with a change of the dial at 6 o’clock: while reference 5035 features a 24-hour subsidiary dial, the present model has a moon phase display. This architecture coupled with the distinguished cream dial and the timeless Calatrava proportions of the case creates a supremely elegant timepiece, with the blue moonphases adding a bit of fair to the ensemble. The present example is fresh to the market and preserved in excellent condition. It is ofered as a complete set with its Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin, setting pin, product literature, wallet, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
114.
A rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with green dial, hang tag, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2020
Reference No.
116508
Case No.
86’7X0’337
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, hang tag, wallet, presentation box.
This beautiful yellow gold Cosmograph is preserved in excellent and pristine condition. It most notably displays a striking dial in “vert foncé” that is instantly recognizable upon a glance. So desirable is this model that it almost instantly sold out at retailers following singer John Mayer’s appearance on camera describing his admiration for the model. Today, it is incredible difcult to obtain one at the boutique, making this watch an incredibly sought-afer item. Having just lef the retailer this year, the present watch is furthermore accompanied by all its original accessories, further adding to its collectibility. It even retains all its original factory stickers and is preserved in virtually “like-new” condition.
RO L E X
Ref. 116508 Cosmograph Daytona
115.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An attractive and fne stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2014
Reference No.
15202
Movement No.
915’914
Case No.
120699-5023
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet ftted box, outer packaging, Warranty, Authentifcation and Register Certifcate, instructions for use and 2 extra links.
The Royal Oak has been synonymous with debonair chic for almost 50 years. A watch that has spoken, and still speaks, to collectors, enthusiasts and aesthetes for close to two generations.
Originally launched in 1972 the watch had a 39mm steel case housing the slim automatic caliber 2121 (which at the time was the world’s thinnest automatic caliber only 2.45mm thick). The present example is a modern representative of this landmark line of wristwatches. Reference 15202 was launched in 2000, and then again re-issued in 2012 in celebration of the model’s 40th anniversary and is powered by the same caliber 2121 which this time, contrary to the original model, can be admired through the sapphire caseback. Collectors consider the reference 15202 as THE modern Royal Oak to have as it shares all the attributes with regards to case size, movement and overall looks to the now iconic reference 5402. The present Royal Oak reference 15202 has been hardly worn and comes complete with box, guarantee and extra steel links and ofers a perfect opportunity to purchase a watch that represents and icon and for which there is a waiting list.
116.
ROLEX — A very rare and exceedingly well-preserved stainless steel dual time wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
16700
Movement No.
5’360’318
Case No.
E206251
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3175, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-12,000 $6,200-12,500 €5,700-11,400
In production from 1988 to 1999, reference 16700 is a classic GMT-Master. The model most notably featured a sapphire crystal, which was a new introduction to the GMT-Master line at the time. Fitted with an aluminum bezel, it was a decidedly more modern and hefier version of the iconic model. Displaying a beautiful and untouched tritium dial, the present watch is preserved in excellent and crisp condition, with razor sharp edges and crisp bevels. It even retains its original green factory caseback sticker. The numbers between the lugs are crisp, and have never seen intervention before. The bracelet is furthermore incredibly rigid and tight, showing how little (if any) wear the watch has seen throughout its lifespan.
117.
A fne, attractive and very rare pink gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with blue multi-scale dial, Guarantee and box. Number 65 of a 100 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
IWC
Year
2017
Reference No.
IWIW371215
Case No.
6’042’144, lim. ed no.: 65/100
Model Name
Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante
Material
18K pink gold
“Boutique Milano” Calibre
Manual, cal. 76240, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
IWC alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold IWC pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 ∙ ∑ $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by IWC Guarantee card dated February 28, 2017, original IWC Milano invoice dated February 28, 2017, instruction manual, service booklet, polishing cloth and ftted numbered presentation box.
In July 2016, IWC opened their Milan boutique. The brand celebrated this milestone with a limited edition timepiece realised in only 100 pieces, the present one being number 65. With a somewhat of a “surprise move”, IWC used this edition to fnally satisfy the requests IWC collectors had been making for over ten years: the Boutique Milano Portugieser efectively reintroduced the split seconds complication to the line, a muchmissed feature not seen in a Portugieser model since 2006. The technical prowess of the movement is coupled with a generous 41mm case and a multi-scale dial featuring a mesmerising metallic navy blue fnish. The presence of the telemeter and tachymeter scale is a subtle connection to another limited edition Portugieser IWC made for the Italian public: the “Barozzi” Portugieser (Barozzi being the IWC retailer in Brescia) launched in 2004, and was actually the frst Portugieser to feature this scale combination. The present example is ofered in absolutely unused condition still retaining the IWC sticker to the back - by its original owner, a prominent Italian collector. It retains its complete set of accessories and even the original purchase invoice.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
I WC
Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante “Boutique Milano”
Aquanaut Patek Philippe is known for its highly complicated dress watches, but two lines of timepieces in their catalogue fall outside of this category: the Nautilus and the Aquanaut.
The genesis of the Aquanaut line is rooted in the cultural and economic climate of the late 1990s. A number of new, young, dynamic entrepreneurs spawning from the success of internet companies needed to be catered to. There was of course the Nautilus, but it had been launched some two decades before: the time was ready for a new sports model. There are many similarities between the Aquanaut and the Nautilus designs. This is because the former is more than simply inspired by the latter. Originally, it was envisioned as part of the Nautilus collection, possibly a dressier version with lugs (ironically the Aquanaut turned out to embody an even sportier lifestyle than the Nautilus) and with a leather strap. In fact, the frst series of reference 5060J (with solid caseback) was introduced in 1996 as a new Nautilus model. A press release illustrating the new Aquanaut line was issued only the year afer, on the occasion of the launch of the 5060A in 1997. It is more than conceivable that market feedback obtained in 1996 directed Patek Philippe to make a 180 on their idea of a dressier Nautilus: the crocodile strap was abandoned in favour of a - for Patek Philippe, extremely iconoclastic - rubber strap (even though a metal bracelet was also available), the fat dial was given a checkered embossing, and the ambassador for the line was the steel model (the gold version was strategically lef out of the press release completely). As an interesting bit of folklore, there are rumours that the model came instead to be in a completely diferent way: allegedly, a Middle Eastern army approached Patek Philippe asking for the development of a suitable timepiece - which resulted into the Aquanaut. The checkered pattern of the dial somehow resembling the pattern found on a hand grenade is used to support this theory, but no ofcial confrmation form the company has ever been given, nor external evidence found.
The Aquanaut line can so far be divided into two generations. The frst generation models were released in the late 1990s (with one exception), beyond the original model 5060 (and its glazed back evolution 5066, launched in 1998), there are only two additional gentleman’s models - the Jumbo version 5065 (1998, with a diameter of 38mm) and the quartz reference 5064 - and two ladies model (4960 and 4961). In 2004, midsize diamond-set lady’s quartz reference 5067 ended the frst “round” of Aquanaut releases. Second generation models were instead all released afer the tenth anniversary of 2007. Two models were released to commemorate the milestone: ref. 5165 (successor to ref. 5065, and now discontinued) and oversize ref. 5167 with a 41mm case. Four years afer these models, in 2011, the market was taken by surprise by the frst complicated (beyond date indication) Aquanaut: travel time reference 5164. The second complicated model was released as a 20-th anniversary limited edition in 2016: reference 5650G, featuring the same travel time complication as ref 5164, but featuring groundbreaking components devised by Patek Philippe Advance Research department. Finally, in 2019 the - so far - last complicated piece was revealed: chronograph ref. 5968, available with a striking orange strap. The time-only range of the line enjoyed an upgrade for the 20th anniversary of the model, with the introduction of white gold ref 5168, featuring a very large 42mm case and blue dial. A khaki variation of this reference was introduced last year, rediscovering a color previously employed in variations of ref 5167A and lady’s 5067.
118.
A possibly unique stainless steel wristwatch with a blue dial, red center seconds, date and matching blue bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
5065
Movement No.
3’614’054
Case No.
4’302’532
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe concealed
Dimensions
37mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
double deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2005 with blue dial and its subsequent sale on 20 December 2005.
Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut was presented as a little brother to the Nautilus – the brand’s frst and only other sports watch in its catalogue. A disruptive force, the Aquanaut was the frst model in Patek Philippe’s collection to come ftted on a rubber strap, one of several novel features the company hoped would attract a new and younger consumer base. Initially limited to 1,000 pieces, in gold and stainless steel, the Aquanaut was put into regular production with the ofcial release of the reference 5065, and it then enjoyed a relatively long an uneventful production cycle, with few reference updates made since the original model came out in 1997. But during that time, it has undoubtedly become one of the hottest Patek Philippe wristwatch, together with the Nautilus. It is therefore extremely exciting to have discovered, like a needle in a haystack, this most probably unique pair of reference 5065 models, created according to our research for an important North American client as part of a set of four Reference 5065s with unique color schemes. Consigned by the original owner, who purchased the present blue version along with a “prune” colored version as a romantic gesture during a holiday in the USA with her then boyfriend, the watch is a perfect anomaly and a rare example of the extremely exclusive customization program that Patek Philippe ofers to a rarifed group of clients.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Possibly Unique Ref. 5065 Aquanaut “Electric Blue”
119.
A possibly unique stainless steel wristwatch with a prune dial, red center seconds, date and matching prune bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2005
Reference No.
5065
Movement No.
3’614’259
Case No.
4’302’529
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
Stainless Steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 315 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe concealed
Dimensions
37mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
double deployant clasp
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2005 with prune dial and its subsequent sale on 20 December 2005.
Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut was presented as a little brother to the Nautilus – the brand’s frst and only other sports watch in its catalogue. A disruptive force, the Aquanaut was the frst model in Patek Philippe’s collection to come ftted on a rubber strap, one of several novel features the company hoped would attract a new and younger consumer base. Initially limited to 1,000 pieces, in gold and stainless steel, the Aquanaut was put into regular production with the ofcial release of the reference 5065, and it then enjoyed a relatively long an uneventful production cycle, with few reference updates made since the original model came out in 1997. But during that time, it has undoubtedly become one of the hottest Patek Philippe wristwatch, together with the Nautilus. It is therefore extremely exciting to have discovered, like a needle in a haystack, this most probably unique pair of reference 5065 models (for the blue dial example please see Lot 118), created according to our research for an important North American client as part of a set of four Reference 5065s with unique color schemes. Consigned by the original owner, who purchased the present prune version along with the blue colored version as a romantic gesture during a holiday in the USA with her then boyfriend, the watch is a perfect anomaly and a rare example of the extremely exclusive customization program that Patek Philippe ofers to a rarifed group of clients.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Possibly Unique Ref. 5065 Aquanaut “Prune”
120.
An unusual and very rare automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, blue dial and rubber strap
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1998
Reference No.
5066
Movement No.
3’025’619
Case No.
4’054’782
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 330/194, 30 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe rubber strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe double deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
with the Geneva Seal
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 Ό $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1998 with “blue embossed dial, white gold Arabic numerals, tritium” and its subsequent sale on August 31, 1998.
Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut was the frst model produced by the manufacture which is sold with a rubber strap. When released at Basel in 1997, the reference 5065A Jumbo (36mm diameter) was a limited edition watch of 1,000 timepieces, and sold in both stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. The watch had a sporty appeal and representative of the casual era but was a breed unto itself compared to the Nautilus, which had been released 20 years earlier. The model became a collector’s favourite and has been issued in a variety of sizes and movement types. Made in 1998, the present example is part of a very limited number made for the Japanese market. Its blue dial with applied Arabic numerals and large luminous accents boasts a remarkably contemporary and playful look. Fresh to the market, it is ofered in remarkably well-preserved condition of both case and dial. Considered only a handful of examples of this “Japan Edition” are known from the public market, it is safe to say this is a highly exclusive opportunity to own one of the most unusual and charismatic Aquanaut models ever produced.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 5066 Aquanaut “Japan”
121.
An extremely elegant yellow gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds and date
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2000
Reference No.
5060J
Movement No.
3’031’214
Case No.
4’077’681
Model Name
Aquanaut
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 330/194, 30 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
stamped with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 Ό ∑ $12,500-18,700 €11,400-17,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2000 with “Semi-gloss black dial, yellow gold Roman numerals, tritium” and its subsequent sale on February 5, 2001.
In 1996, Patek Philippe tried to, for the frst time since its inception, strongly renew the Nautilus line of timepieces. As a result, the iconic reference 3800 was released with a new Roman-numeral, groove-less black dial, and reference 5060 was introduced. It was at the time incepted as a leather-strap version of the Nautilus. The dramatic changes to the case design - such as the presence of proper lugs, and the lack of the typical “faps” to the sides of the case - truly set this model apart from the rest of the Nautilus collection, so much that in fact it is the archetype of the other line of sport’s watches: the Aquanaut. The present example of this landmark model is ofered in practically mint condition, the case having acquired, through years sitting in a safety deposit box, a beautiful warm sheen thanks to the subtle oxidation of the 18K gold.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 5060J Aquanaut
122.
A very fne and rare platinum annual calendar chronograph wristwatch with grey dial, certifcate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2008
Reference No.
5960P
Movement No.
3’501’838
Case No.
4’429’644
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-520/521, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 ∑ $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated January 04 2008, slip case, leather wallet, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
First introduced in 2006, reference 5960 was Patek Philippe’s frst self-winding chronograph wristwatch with an annual calendar complication. The reference was frst launched in platinum with grey dial. Patek Philippe later released variants in pink gold and stainless steel. The present example is preserved in excellent condition and is accompanied by all its original accessories such as the Certifcate of Origin, slip case, presentation box and outer packaging.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 5960P
123.
A very attractive and rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, black baton indexes dial additional caseback setting pin and papers
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 1994
Reference No.
3970P
Movement No.
3’046’662
Case No.
4’177’112
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27-70, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 $83,000-166,000 €75,900-152,000 Accessories Accompanied by 2nd caseback, setting pin, Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin, product literature and leather wallet. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of this watch with “semi-gloss black dial, white gold sword-shaped indexes” in 2002 and its subsequent sale on December 13, 2002.
Launched in 1986 and in production until 2004, reference 3970 was a proud heir of two other Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs: references 1518 and 2499 - and is most probably one of the brand’s most iconic watches of the modern era. With this reference came a number of introductions to the line, none more important than its new movement.
Built using the world famous Lemania 2310 as its base, the calibre CH 27-70Q was, heavily modifed to match Patek Philippe’s extremely high standards in terms of precision, reliability and fnishing. It also introduced new features that proved extremely popular with collectors. Most notably, this was the frst Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph to indicate leap years, and the frst to add a 24-hour chronograph hand. Another noteworthy modifcation is the slight reduction of the diameter. Despite it’s more complex mechanism, the reference 3970 represented the frst drop in size in the perpetual calendar chronograph family, from 37.5mm down to 36mm. The reference was divided into three series: the frst series featured a snap on caseback, with applied gold sword indexes and feuille hands. The second series featured a screw-down, solid caseback, with the hallmarks stamped on the outside of the lugs. The third series featured a sapphire display back along with a screw-down solid caseback like the present example. Made in yellow, pink and white gold as well as in platinum, the present example is a representative of the latter family. It is ftted with a highly attractive black dial featuring sword indexes - fully confrmed by both Extract and Certifcate. This style is - curiously - a much rarer (and possibly more easily wearable) iteration than the more famboyant diamond-set numerals, the style usually found on black-dial 3970P. 124. NO LOT
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 3970P
125.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with black lacquer dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
1802
Movement No.
DD’627’195
Case No.
2’350’091
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 Ό $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated December 24, 1970 and presentation box.
Preserved in excellent condition, this attractive reference 1802 features a smooth bezel - the defning feature of this model. Reference 1802 is much rarer compared to its reed-bezeled sibling reference 1803, making the model particularly favored among collectors. It is complemented by a Rolex Oyster bracelet, which is a rarity itself. Among its many other stunning features, it also displays a black lacquer dial that is still incredibly glossy in appearance. All luminous dots appear round and intact, and have aged with warm patina. Lacquer dials are particularly hard to fnd, and to discover one in such unspoiled condition is a marvel indeed. Furthermore, the present timepiece is accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box, adding yet another element of collectibility.
RO L E X
Ref. 1802 Day-Date
126.
An extremely rare and attractive automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, rubellite dial, diamond-set indexes and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1998
Reference No.
18239
Movement No.
7’574’252
Case No.
U700656
Model Name
Day-Date “Rubellite”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex President bracelet stamped 55B6 to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex hidden deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “Z11” and “8385”
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $25,900-46,700 €23,700-42,700
This superb white gold Day-Date is ftted with an incredibly attractive and equally rare rubellite dial with diamond-set numerals. The textured efect of the rubellite adds fair, movement and intrigue to the dial layout, and furthermore provides a perfect canvas for the diamond-set numerals to shine on. The calendar windows, like with all hard-stone dials, are framed in white metal. Hardstone dials are among the most attractive and collectible dials to have ever found their way into the Day-Date line. Beyond the present rubellite, other stones have been employed by Rolex: onyx, grossularia, malachite, marble, agate and jade are just some examples of this remarkable diversity.
RO L E X
Ref. 18239 Day-Date “Rubellite”
127.
An extremely rare and most attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with yellow “Stella” dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1979
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0’219’923
Case No.
5’905’755
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $62,300-125,000 €56,900-114,000
Ever glamorous and luxurious, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. The frm has elevated its Day-Date models with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even colored lacquer, providing an unusual design twist to the iconic model. Of all Day-Dates, one of the most exclusive, desirable and distinguished variant is without a doubt, the Day-Date with yellow “Stella” dial. So rare is this model that the market has only seen a handful of examples over the years. When one does show up at auction, it is an incredibly noteworthy occasion. The present watch is ftted with an arresting and eye-catching taxi-cab yellow “Stella” dial that ofers so much diversity and beauty. Made in the late 1970s, it is slightly diferent from its predecessor, reference 1803, as the dial displays a railway track with roman numerals on the outer edge. The dial is beautiful and translucent in a way that only “Stella” dials can be, with a precise coating of the lacquer around the day and date apertures. The case is also preserved in excellent and unspoiled condition, displaying sharp hallmarks beneath the lugs and sharp fnishes on the top of the lugs.
RO L E X
Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Yellow Stella”
128.
A rare and attractive white gold calendar wristwatch with black lacquer dial
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
1601
Movement No.
D’981’470
Case No.
1’567’715
Model Name
Datejust
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700
Rolex released its very frst Datejust, reference 4467, in 1945 to celebrate the frm’s 40th anniversary. Fitted with a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the watch featured an Oyster case, ‘Bubble Back’ movement and ‘coin edge’ bezel. At the time of production, the DateJust was the world’s frst automatic chronometer wristwatch to display the date on the dial. The Datejust model is predominantly cased in stainless steel and gold. Among diferent kinds of gold metals, white metal Datejusts are much rarer than their yellow gold counterparts. Completely understated, this example features a rich black lacquer dial that is still glossy in appearance. Displaying incredible charisma and character, the dial has aged gracefully over time. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent condition with sharp hallmarks beneath the lugs.
RO L E X
Ref. 1601 Datejust
129.
A fne and rare white gold wristwatch with day, date and bracelet made for the Sultanate of Oman and retailed by Asprey
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1973
Reference No.
1802 inside caseback further stamped 1803 and repeated with serial number
Movement No.
DD686’935
Case No.
3’795’514
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, end links stamped 49, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Rolex folding deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed. Caseback further stamped Asprey
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900
Versatile, creative and playful, the Day-Date is one of Rolex’s models that has seen the most variations since its launch in 1956. Always produced in precious metal such as gold or platinum, sometimes adorned with precious stones or colourful dials, the Day Date is a model that embodies famboyance and exuberance but sometimes, like with the present reference 1802, can also be very sober and discreet. The reference 1802, with polished bezel, was frst introduced in 1963 and is much rarer compared to its reed-bezeled sibling reference 1803. The white gold case of the present watch is complemented by a silver dial colour that is only brightened by the red inscription on the dial as if Rolex wanted to keep all the attention on the red signature of his Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Saided of Oman. When found anywhere on a watch, this signature signifes an important object of royal provenance. Such watches were commissioned by Asprey for the Sultan of Oman, an important collector in his own right, to be ofered as gifs to foreign dignitaries and loyal staf. From circa 1973, this watch remains in extremely attractive condition. Combining the extremely sought afer Qaboos signature in a stealth metal case, this watch is at once easy to wear as well as presents a special variation and will be a very fne addition to any collection. Most importantly, the present watch was sold through Asprey as evidenced by the retailer’s signature on the caseback.
RO L E X
Ref. 1802 Day-Date “Qaboos”
130.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “dead-beat” center seconds, bracelet and medals
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1956
Reference No.
6556
Movement No.
N823’240
Case No.
138’763
Model Name
Tru-Beat
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1040, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Rolex oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 57, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.70
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 $12,500-18,700 €11,400-17,100 Accessories Accompanied by numerous medical medals, A Rolex Watch Co cardboard box, letter explaining the ownership history of the watch and Rolex service deposit receipt.
The present Rolex Tru-Beat impresses not only by its impeccable condition but by its original provenance and memorabilia. The Tru-Beat reference 6556 was launched in 1954 as a tool watch for doctors and healthcare workers. It is the only mechanical Rolex model to ever incorporate a “dead-beat” seconds mechanism that advances the seconds hand only once per second. This permitted more accurate readings of patients’ pulse rates, however the demand for such a timepiece was quite low, and the reference was soon discontinued. Amongst the small quantities produced, few have survived with the deadbeat mechanism of the Rolex caliber 1040 still intact. The present example was given to John Barnes, a Rolex watchmaker for training purposes, he then purchased the watch and ofered to his aunt Daisy Cox, a British Red Cross medical worker, who quite appropriately needed such a tool watch in her everyday activities. Mrs. Cox had a long career in medical services with the British Red Cross, the Civil Defense and St. John’s Ambulance working from 1931 well into the mid-1960s. For her exemplarily services, Mrs. Cox received an impressive number of medical medals – which are ofered with this lot- including a British 1939-1945 Defense medal, numerous British Red Cross medical service medals and St. John’s ambulance badge.
The present example functions exactly as Rolex originally designed it, with a seconds hand that perfectly advances once every second. Many watchmakers did not have the ability to repair such movements, and switched out the mechanism in favour of typical automatic movements, hence the rarity of a correct example today.
RO L E X Ref. 6556 Tru-Beat “Te Red Cross Nurse”
131.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, “tropical” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1967
Reference No.
1665 inside caseback stamped IV.7 and 305
Movement No.
D’418’084
Case No.
1’760’305
Model Name
Sea-Dweller
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped C
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $41,500-83,000 €37,900-75,900
Launched in 1967, the Sea-Dweller is the ultimate tool watch. Originally conceived for dive expeditions, the model was ofcially introduced for civilian use in 1967. While the earliest prototype examples featured single line bearing “Sea-Dweller” in red, Rolex later printed both the depth rating and SeaDweller signature in red. The Sea-Dweller’s biggest technical innovation was the helium escape valve. During the 1960s, most watches did not have the capacity to submerge into great depths without breaking. The Helium Escape Valve allowed helium gas, which built up underwater, to be released during decompression. This impressive Sea-Dweller is ftted with a Mk2 dial, which has turned a beautiful and even tobacco tone over time. Correct for a 1.7 million serial number, Mk2 dials are distinguished by the small base of the coronet. It is remarkable how even and rich the brown tone is. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent condition with incredibly crisp bevels and sharp edges. The inside caseback is furthermore stamped with the last three digits of the serial number, which is correct.
RO L E X
Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller “Tropical”
132.
A fne stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and Guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1982
Reference No.
6265
Movement No.
12’325
Case No.
7’426’421
Model Name
Daytona “Big Red”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “571” and “78350 19” to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “H” and “78350”
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $41,500-83,000 €37,900-75,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex USA Guarantee and later Rolex box.
Reference 6265 was introduced to the market in approximately 1969 and ceased production in the late 1980s. The model features screw down pushers and thus carries an “Oyster” designation on the dial. It is powered by caliber 727, a Rolex upgrade of Valjoux caliber 72 and the fnal evolution of this movement (following cal. 72A, 72B, 722, and 722-1). From the late 80s, with reference 16520, Rolex started to employ an El Primero based movement in the Cosmograph. Manufactured in circa 1982, the present watch represents a very attractive example of the fnal evolution in the design of this reference, defned by the large red Daytona designation above the subsidiary counter at 6 o’clock (hence its nickname “Big Red”). The presence of the original warranty adds rarity and appeal to this highly collectible and sought-afer timepiece.
RO L E X Ref. 6265 Daytona “Big Red”
133.
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer “explorer” underline dial, pointed crown guards and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
5513 inside caseback stamped III.63
Case No.
997’836
Model Name
“Explorer Submariner Underline”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.63
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000
Launched in approximately 1962, reference 5513, along with reference 5512, were the frst Submariner models to be ftted with crown guards. Its predecessors, such as reference 5508 or 6536/1 all featured a ‘small crown’, which Rolex deemed too delicate for a robust tool watch. The present watch is not just a very attractive reference 5513 but has a number of exclusive features that makes it amongst the most collectible of all Submariners.
The most striking feature is the so-called “Explorer dial” or “3-6-9 dial”. While the vast majority of Submariners were ftted with regular round hour markers (for 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11) and rectangular batons (for 3, 6 and 9), the present watch bears this extremely rare dial confguration with thin batons (for 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11) and Arabic numerals (for 3, 6 and 9). The only common numeral style both versions feature is the typical triangular marker at 12. Mostly seen on the Explorer I, hence its name, this type of dial also appears on “Big Crown” Submariners, references 6200, 6538 and 5510 and the later references 5512 and 5513 with crown guards. In production for only the frst half of the 1960s, references 5512 and 5513 with explorer dials are incredibly hard to fnd and sought-afer When analyzing this watch closer, one can spot another extremely exciting detail: an underline underneath the depth rating. The now nicknamed “underline” was used in the early 1960s to indicate a transition from radium to tritium on the dial. Furthermore, this dial confguration is correct for the 997xxx serial range. The watch itself is preserved in excellent and attractive condition, with sharp bevels and crisp edges throughout. It displays pointed crown guards, which is characteristic of the period.
RO L E X
Ref. 5513 Submariner “Explorer Dial”
134.
A very rare and extremely attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tropical dial and bracelet
RO L E X
Ref. 6234 Oyster Chronograph “Tropical”
134.
A very rare and extremely attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tropical dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
6234
Case No.
385’778
Model Name
Oyster Chronograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels, stamped “ROW”
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “7205” and “60 to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “B”
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 250,000-500,000 $259,000-519,000 €237,000-474,000
First introduced in 1955, reference 6234 is considered to be one of the most desirable models within the Rolex Oyster chronograph family - the precursor to the Cosmograph Daytona line of timepieces. The present lot bewitches the beholder with its exceptionally well-preserved black gloss tropical dial; while most black gloss vintage Rolex dials tend to age with clouding, bubbling or patina - more or less strong according to its conservation history of course - the present one arrives to us in an astoundingly fawless condition, fully maintaining its glossy sheen. In this instance, the passing of time has been a blessing, as it has aged the black fnish to a strong, even and immensely charming dark chocolate hue. The luminous material as well has changed color with age and it now ofers a strong camel hue, perfectly ftting the dark chocolate background. On a graphical level, the dial design is simply a masterpiece: the telemeter and tachometer scales frame the extremely balanced dial already bearing the three-counter architecture which will be a signature trait of the Cosmograph Daytona. Ofered in extremely appealing condition and with its original riveted bracelet, this is the opportunity to own one of the most remarkable Rolex chronographs made before the Cosmograph Daytona era.
RO L E X
Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Musketeer”
135.
A rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” musketeer dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6241
Case No.
2’036’574
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Musketeer”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet stamped “7205” and “71” to the endlinks, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “3 69”
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 120,000-240,000 $125,000-249,000 €114,000-228,000
Reference 6241 was produced approximately from 1966 to 1969. Scholars estimate that no more than 3000 pieces were produced during the model’s manufacture period, and only a small part of them with “Paul Newman” dials: in fact, this dial confguration did not elicit much admiration from the clients at the time as it was deemed overly complicated and famboyant, while Daytona users were looking for a reliable and easily readable chronograph. This is the reason behind the scarcity of this dial confguration, now re-evaluated as one of the most aesthetically pleasing and striking dial designs of all times. Featuring a dial confguration almost identical to Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” watch, this reference 6241 is a remarkable example ofered in extremely good and honest condition of both case and dial. Of particular note is the socalled “musketeer” dial, an unusual confguration where the subsidiary counters present sloped sides rather than vertically stepped sides. While this is the standard architecture for standard dials, it is extremely rare to fnd Paul Newman dials with this particularity. Another remarkable detail is the Mk 1 bezel, which is correct for reference 6241 and adds a further layer of collectability to the timepiece.
RO L E X
Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman Musketeer”
136.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1963
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’000’233
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 257, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.61
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900
Produced from approximately 1960 to 1967, the Rolex reference 6238 is a perfect embodiment of the timeless chronograph. Referred to as the “Pre-Daytona” by collectors, the reference 6238 shares similar case size, pushers and baton hands as its contemporary, the frst Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239. However, while the Cosmograph Daytona always features a two tone dial with either black with silver subdials or vice versa, the reference 6238 was ofered only with a monochromatic dial. Marking the end of an era, the 6238 was also the last Rolex chronograph to feature a smooth bezel and a graduated tachymeter scale printed on the dial. Rolex’s later Daytona models would all display the scale on the bezel. The present example is preserved in excellent condition with sharp fnishes on the top of the lugs. Furthermore, the dial is preserved in excellent condition with full and round luminous dots.
RO L E X
Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
137.
An extremely rare and early automatic wristwatch with center seconds, gloss black dial and bracelet
RO L E X Ref. 6538 Submariner “James Bond Big Crown”
137.
An extremely rare and early automatic wristwatch with center seconds, gloss black dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1958
Reference No.
6538
Movement No.
N748380
Case No.
307’531
Model Name
Submariner, “James Bond Big Crown”, “Coroncione”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “358” and “7836” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 $206,000-412,000 €190,000-380,000
First launched in 1955, reference 6538 is incredibly desirable today due to its versatility, robust proportions and attractive appearance. The model was in production for four short years and is characterized by its black lacquer “Swiss”-signed dial, lack of crown guards and 8 millimeter crown hence belonging to the category of “Big Crown Submariner”, or “Coroncione” as they are known in Italy, a literal translation of Big Crown. Reference 6538 is forever immortalized onscreen, having accompanied Sean Connery’s James Bond on multiple secret missions. Bond’s gadget is most notably disguised as a “Big Crown” Submariner on flms like Dr. No, From Russia with Love and Goldfnger. The agent’s watch is ftted on diferent straps and equipped with diferent spying abilities. Consequently, reference 6538 is today also known as the “James Bond Submariner” to Rolex collectors and scholars. This example, manufactured in approximately 1958, boasts an absolutely original dial, completely devoid of any kind of intervention or restoration. The original luminous material has now acquired a strong dark tobacco colour and the glossy fnish has aged to a subtle matte efect. The dial presents a characteristic used by Rolex during these years for a very short time, the luminous marker at 6 being notably lighter than the others. This is an inherent feature of the dial rather than a case of diferent ageing. It is speculated that the lighter marker would work in combination with the triangular index at 12 to allow for an improved and more immediate readability of the time and therefore minimise the chance for error.
RO L E X Ref. 6538 Submariner “James Bond Big Crown”
138.
An extremely rare and intriguing stainless steel automatic antimagnetic wristwatch with semi-gloss black dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1968
Reference No.
1019
Movement No.
M09949
Case No.
1’918’348
Model Name
Milgauss
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1580, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “282” and “7836” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “3 71”
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400
Rolex has long been associated with “tool” wristwatches, which originally were designed with a functional purpose in mind. From their collaboration with Pan American Airways for the GMT-Master dual time zone wristwatch, to the Submariner watch for professional deep-sea divers, these timepieces have captured the imagination of collectors and are today highly sought afer in the international market. The Milgauss, reference 1019, is another example of a Rolex sports model that today enjoys considerable prestige beyond its original intent. Originally released in 1954, the
Milgauss reference 6541 was designed to meet the needs of scientists and engineers working in a magnetic environment. Rolex worked in collaboration with the Conseil Européen de Recherche Nucléaire (CERN), to develop an inside Faraday Cage that would allow the watch to withstand up to 1000 Gauss of magnetism. Hence its name: “Mille Gauss” meaning a thousand Gauss in French. Along with its companion piece the reference 6543, the two remained in production until the beginning of the 1960s when Rolex released the reference 1019. The new reference featured a fresh and modern update to its appearance such as a smooth bezel and a modifed dial layout. It is known to have been made in two series. First series examples feature 1/5 of a second divisions around the dial and faceted hands. Second series specimens present half-second divisions and fat hands. While at frst glance the present watch would appear to be a frst series example, it presents a dial fnish which elevates it to the ranks of the rarest Milgauss specimens. Normally, black 1019 dials feature a matte look. An extremely small number is known to have been made with gloss fnish. The present example however eludes both categories: it dials present an intermediate fnish which cannot be said to be either matte or gloss but rather semi-gloss. Possible explications for this unusual fnish are either a mistake in the production process, or the creation of an experimental batch of such dials followed by the abandonment of the project. In any case, this incredible timepiece once more demonstrates how prolifc of unusual variations the Crown brand was in vintage times, and classifes itself as one of the most collectible specimens of the reference.
RO L E X
Ref. 1019 Milgauss “Semi-Gloss”
139.
A very rare and technically impressive zirconium wristwatch with date and 6 days power reserve
Manufacturer
De Bethune
Year
Circa 2015
Reference No.
DB27ZS8
Movement No.
DB.G.003.041
Case No.
013
Model Name
Titan Hawk
Material
Zirconium
Calibre
Automatic, cal. S233, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Zirconium DeBethune pin buckle
Dimensions
43mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, travel box, Certifcate of Origin and Warranty and instruction manual.
Denis Flageollet, the co-founder of De Bethune and its master watchmaker could be the child of Abraham-Louis Breguet and a genius alien space goddess! Master Watchmaker is a mild description of his incredible talent, the manner he dreams movements creating 21st century horology with new techniques and new components is truly mind boggling. Imagine that since its creation in 2002 De Bethune has given birth to over 30 in-house calibers, a dozen patent registrations and over eighteen world premiere innovations. An amazing feat for such a young brand.
For Denis Flageollet, innovation is the tradition of watchmaking. That is the reason why he doesn’t simply modify or improve traditional techniques, but has taken an almost scientifc and mathematical approach to watchmaking by not only creating a new haute horlogerie in terms of technical innovations, he has completely changed movement architecture and fnish as to ofer what is certainly one of the most striking results in contemporary horology. The present DB 27 Titan Hawk in zirconium (a scratch proof and incredibly difcult to work with metal) may seem simple with its time and date indications but a cavalcade of details add up to make it a superbly enticing watch. Design wise, the dial with its layered surfaces and concentric circles provides a playful partner for the black mat case. The case features a spring loaded foating lug system enabling the watch to adapt to the wrist for ease of wear. The movement is a marvel of fnesse and technology, including many of the De Bethune in-house developed innovations, like the patented self-regulating twin barrel, silicon/white gold balance and the balance spring with fat terminal curve, the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, the titanium/platinum oscillating weight and the silicon escape-wheel which can be admired via the porthole in the back. The watch also boasts a 6 day power reserve. De Bethune is most probably horology’s best kept secret and a brand that only those in the know…know. The present watch- in unworn condition- is an opportunity for the collector of fne horology to delve into the wonderful creations of this amazing brand.
DE BETHUNE
Ref. DB27 Titan Hawk
140.
A technically and aesthetically impressive limited edition white gold wristwatch with suspended balance, date and power reserve indicator
Manufacturer
MB&F
Year
2017
Case No.
O4WG51779
Model Name
Legacy Machine Split Escapement
Material
18k white gold
Calibre
Manual, inhouse, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold deployant clasp
Dimensions
44mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000 ∑ $41,500-62,300 €37,900-56,900 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, guarantee, folder and product literature.
It is an interesting choice of words to say that Maximilian Büsser made a very audacious move when he decided to move away from the convention defying designs of the Horological Machines his brand is known for to create a round classical timepiece with Roman numerals. However, the Legacy Machine – originally launched in 2012 – is not a classic watch in the conventional sense but a tribute to 19th century watchmaking that has its feet frmly set in this millennium.
The present Split Escapement keeps the design codes of the Legacy Machines with its domed crystal, extra-large 14mm balance suspended over the dial and held by an arch shaped bridge, and its superlative fnish. However, it diferentiates itself from its siblings from the fact that there is absolutely no other element of the escapement to be seen other than the balance! The anchor and escape wheel are in fact concealed on the opposite side of the movement, almost 12 mm below, rendering the oscillations of the balance even more magnetic to behold. An incredibly daunting task requiring tight tolerances to function and extreme skills to assemble, the Split Escapement was developed with independent watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. The watch features a 72 hour power reserve indicator and date on white lacquer subdials placed upon a beautifully hammered slate grey dial. Limited to 18 pieces, the present Legacy Machine Split Escapement is a watch that powerfully merges technical prowess with aesthetic harmony. Please note that MB&F generously ofers a complimentary service of the watch to the successful bidder.
MB&F
Legacy Machine Split Escapement
141.
A unique and superbly decorated white gold wristwatch with power reserve and dual time zone indicators, engraved and enameled caseback
Manufacturer
Voutilainen
Year
2016
Movement No.
GMT-R-09-12
Model Name
Vingt-8 Triton et Sirène
Material
18k white gold
Calibre
Manual, inhouse cal. 13”’
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 Ό $51,900-104,000 €47,400-94,800 Accessories Accompanied by large wooden ftted box, guarantee, product literature, watch box guarantee and polishing cloth. Literature Kari Voutilainen and his works are featured in Kari Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art by Theodore Diehl as well as in Watchmakers, The Masters of Art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 228-247 and in Twelve faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elisabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp. 90-105.
Kari Voutilainen is not only an extremely gifed watchmaker but also a talented designer who controls every aspect of the creation of his watches as not only are all the movement components (other than hairspring and jewels), dials and hands developed in house but also made, fnished and assembled by Voutilainen and his small team of watchmakers.
The present unique piece GMR Triton et Sirène is a true piece of horology and visual arts combined. The apparently simple movement features a complex direct impulse escapement enabling a more constant distribution of energy. Furthermore, the extra-large balance allows fne regulation of the watch using a rare balance spring system with the exterior of the spring using a Breguet overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve. For a touch of contemporary elegance, the movement has been ruthenium plated replacing the habitual Geneva waves found in his watches. The ofcer style caseback features a sumptuous scene in hand engraved relief in vitreous blue enamel depicting a mermaid and Triton, a merman in Greek mythology, demigod of the sea and the son of the sea god, Poseidon. The intricate hand engraving is done by Eddy Jaquet whereas the enamel work, also called pique à jour, is done by Inès Hamaguchi, two respected artists in their respective felds having worked with the greatest brands in the creation of unique bespoke pieces. The inside of the lid is engraved with “We will return to where we came from”. The sleek blue dial features a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, a subseconds and a GMT indicator that advances in one hour increments via a push on the crown. An outstanding timepiece, this unique masterpiece from one of horology’s greatest masters will certainly have a place of choice in the collection of the discerning esthete.
VO U T I L A I N E N
Unique Piece Vingt-8 Triton et Sirène
142.
An incredibly rare, unusual and interesting limited edition wristwatch with digital display of time, date and countdown features
Manufacturer
Harry Winston
Year
Circa 2013
Reference No.
520/MMVPH
Case No.
044394 further stamped with limited
Model Name
Opus 3
Material
Platinum
The brain child of the enfant terrible of independent watchmaking Vianney Halter - a genius watchmaker whose main inspirations are outside of the horological sphere and mainly in machinery, steampunk imagery and science fction – the Opus 3 is nothing short of astounding.
edition number 1/25
Calibre
Manual wind, inhouse movement, 47 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Harry Winston deployant clasp
Dimensions
37.5mm wide 37.5mm long (not including lugs)
Signed
Case, signed Harry Winston and Vianney Halter, movement signed Opus, deployant clasp signed HW
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 ∑ $62,300-125,000 €56,900-114,000 Accessories Accompanied by ftted box, open guarantee and instruction booklet.
There are watches whose importance in the horological sphere is so important that there is a before and an afer. And the Opus 3 is defnitely part of this elite cast. Launched in 2003, at a time when Creative Independent Horology was still in its infancy, the Opus 3 with its bombastic design and mind boggling digital time indication forged a new vision that would pave the path for what would come next. It is THE watch that put Harry Winston’s Opus series on the horological radar.
The watch indicates time and date but is most certainly one of the most complex time only models ever made with a movement of extreme ingenuity and innovation consisting of 7 overlapping discs for the time and date indications but also a very playful and ingenious countdown of the last 4 seconds of each minute that can be read as follows: - Top row from lef to right: AM/PM and countdown indicator, date (tens), hours (units) - Lower row from lef to right: tens of minutes, date (units) minutes (units) The Opus 3 had some teething problems when originally introduced and it took close to ten years to make it function correctly and during that time, it is believed that not a single order was cancelled giving the watch its legendary status. The platinum case with its organic forms, swiveling lugs (inspired by the pillars of the Harry Winston fagship boutique in New York) and restrained size can perfectly ft any wrist. Limited to 25 pieces in pink gold and 25 pieces in platinum (like the present watch) as well as 5 in platinum with baguette cut diamonds, the present lot is rendered even more attractive as it bears number 1/25.
H A R RY W I N S TO N
Opus 3 “Number One”
143.
A very attractive limited edition stainless steel wristwatch with sapphire rotor
Manufacturer
Vianney Halter
Year
2018
Case No.
1/20
Model Name
Anniversary
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal.U30A, 30 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel VH deployant clasp
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 â‚Ź14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by outer and inner box, Certifcate of Authenticity and undated warranty and polishing cloth. Literature Vianney Halter is featured in Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking by Michael Clerizo pp. 192-211, in Twelve faces of Time, Horological Virtuosos by Elisabeth Doerr and Ralf Baumgarten pp.106-121 and in Watchmakers, The Masters of art Horology by Maxima Gallery pp 178-189.
Rarely has a watchmaker had such an infuence on his peers as Vianney Halter who took the world by surprise in 1998 with his incredibly original and unusual Antiqua perpetual calendar followed by the Opus 3 developed with Harry Winston (see Lot 142). In 2018, in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the launching of his brand, Halter presented the Anniversary in a limited edition of 20 pieces of which the present model is number 1. Inspired by the Classic presented in 2000, the Anniversary reinterprets the futuristic steampunk Jules Verne inspired visual codes of its predecessor in a more contemporary livery. The enlarged 38mm case is now made in steel, a metal that Halter had never worked with and which according to him will never be use again, the sterling silver dial bears his autograph and interestingly a fragment of an encrypted message is printed on each of the 20 rotors, a message that can be deciphered only when the watches are reunited! The automatic movement features an ingenious sapphire central rotor enabling a full view of the movement. The present watch, in unworn condition is number 1 of the limited edition giving this already incredibly desirable piece even more appeal and collectability.
V I A N N E Y H A LT E R
Anniversary “Number One”
144.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE — A futuristic stainless steel driver’s wristwatch made for Pierre Cardin
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
Circa 1970
Case No.
936’168
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 36, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Width
Signed
Case and movement signed. Case, dial and bracelet further signed Pierre Cardin
Estimate CHF 500-1,000 ∙ $520-1,000 €470-950
Pierre Cardin is one of the most famous fashion designers of the second half of the 20th Century. He is known for his avantgarde style and Space Age designs. Having worked with Elsa Schiaparelli he later became head of Christian Dior’s tailleur atelier before opening his own house in 1950. Fascinated by geometric shapes, Pierre Cardin diversifed his creations by designing pens, perfume, jewellery, watches and even car interiors. In the 70s, Pierre Cardin developed in association with Jaeger LeCoultre a series of watches with futuristic shapes. The present watch is part of this series. Advertised as essential for the motorist, the watch was to be worn on the side of the wrist, allowing the driver to read the time while keeping his hand on the steering wheel.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
The present watch perfectly embodies Cardin’s passion for futuristic design and geometric shapes. Resolutely vintage, this watch seems to never have seen any wrist time and is in fantastic condition; even the leather bracelet doesn’t show any signs of use. A true time capsule that would allow the wearer to travel back in time.
145.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE — An unusual and elegant yellow gold squared shaped wristwatch with wood bracelet
Manufacturer
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year
1970
Reference No.
1670.21
Case No.
1’277’105A
Model Name
VOGUE “Etrier”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. K840, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Wood, max length 165mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold buckle
Dimensions
15mm Length, 20mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 1,000-2,000 ∙ $1,000-2,100 €950-1,900 Accessories Accompanied by Jaeger LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1970.
In the 1930s Jaeger-LeCoultre created a gorgeous watch for women. Nicknamed ‘Etrier’, French for stirrup, the original case was an unusually oriented rectangle fxed to the bracelet by two stirrup-shaped fastenings. This simple yet powerful design code allowed for endless declinations. The present lady’s yellow gold wristwatch is ftted with a very unusual wood bracelet that is perfectly integrated to the watch thanks to the specially designed gold endlinks fxed on the stirrup. With its elegant inverted rectangular shaped case, this watch ofers great presence on the wrist. This model, that was adopted by Hermès Paris, reminds us of an era when lady’s watches were signifcantly smaller than today, nonetheless its particular design displays a timeless stylishness which remains very contemporary.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
146.
CARTIER — A highly rare and oversized wristwatch with stepped case
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1978
Case No.
970’500’659
Model Name
“Jumbo Gondole”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 97B, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
34.5mm Width and 38mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 ∑ $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400
Very rare, this oversized Cartier perfectly encapsulates the brand’s daring and unusual designs of the 1970s and 1980s. Flat, large and wide, it houses a manual winding movement and has immense presence on the wrist due to its stepped case. Furthermore, the Roman numeral hour markers, blued steel hands and sapphire-set crown enables the viewer to immediately recognize the design as being inherently “Cartier”. The timepiece is also preserved in excellent condition, with a crisp case number on the caseback and sharp hallmarks.
147.
CARTIER — A rare and attractive white gold and diamond-set tonneau-shaped wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
1995
Reference No.
A113’699
Model Name
“Tonneau”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 78-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm. Length and 26mm. Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-12,000 ∑ $6,200-12,500 €5,700-11,400
Cartier’s very frst tonneau watch was launched in 1906. Always pushing the boundaries of aesthetics and design, Louis Cartier broke convention by eschewing the traditional round wristwatch, favouring an unusual and elongated case design. At the time of production, the “Tonneau” watch was unusually daring - it boasted a confdent and large case which elegantly hugged the wrist. The present example is a modern-day interpretation of the barrel-shaped wristwatch while retaining the design codes established over a century ago. Cased in white gold, set with diamonds and featuring a diamond crown, this example is preserved in excellent condition, with crisp case numbers and hallmarks.
148.
A rare, large and exceptionally well preserved white gold wristwatch with center seconds and Kodama Yoshio caseback inscription
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1962
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
710’017
Case No.
312’866
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Unsigned steel buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 Ό $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1962 with silvered dial and gold indexes and its subsequent sale on November 12, 1962.
This reference 570 is an extremely well-preserved example. Its impeccable state of preservation truly sets this watch apart from its peers today. It displays full, thick lugs, and incredible proportions. It also displays brushed and satin fnishes. The watch features two sharp hallmarks to the back of the lugs, which are so deep and crisp. The edges of the case are furthermore sharp to the touch. Interestingly, the caseback bears a Japanese inscription which translates to “Gif to Hirai Giichi Taikei 1972 Kodama Yoshio”. An extremely prominent and notorious fgure in Japan, Kodama Yoshio (February 18, 1911 – January 17, 1984) was an incredibly active behind-the-scenes power broker in 20th century Japan, controlling much of its underworld and political arena. An ardent nationalist, he was heavily involved in diferent areas of the Japanese government and even worked with the U.S.intelligence at one point. The present watch must have been a gif from “The Don” to Hirai Giichi, a politician and governor in Japan in 1972, cementing their brotherhood.
Yoshio Kodama seen here afer appearing at the Tokyo District Court during the Lockheed bribery trial, 1977
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 570 “Kodama Yoshio”
149.
An unusual, large and very rare wristwatch with Certifcate and box, number 144 of a 400 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
1991
Reference No.
W1507451
Case No.
009-91, A108005
Model Name
Baignoire Allongée
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Cartier leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
Dimensions
23mm Width, 54mm Length
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-22,000 $12,500-22,800 €11,400-20,900 Accessories Accompanied by Cartier Certifcate, instruction booklet, red document holder, additional unsigned leather strap and ftted presentation box.
The frst two decades of the past century were highly prolifc under a design point of view. Cartier, for example, introduced a number of pieces which went on to make the history of the brand, the “Baignoire” being one of them. Launched in 1957 and available in the New York and London boutiques, its design was inspired by an early Cartier oval wristwatch and, notoriously, by the shape of a bathtub, hence its name. Soon afer its introduction, the brand experimented with the model giving birth to the oversize “allongée” version. So successful was this design that it will be the base for another iconic Cartier timepiece - the crash. In 1991 Cartier re-issued the model in a 400 pieces limited edition for its Collection Privé series, an out-of-catalogue line of pieces reserved for the most faithful clients of the maison. The present example, ofered in extremely well-preserved condition and accompanied by its original Certifcate and box, is a specimen from this restricted production.
C A RT I E R
Baignoire AllongĂŠe
150.
A rare, attractive and very well-preserved curved yellow gold wristwatch
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1968
Case No.
52960, 024 and 040
Model Name
Tank Cintrée
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold deployant clasp with Cartier hand
Dimensions
45mm Length and 23.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped numbers and “EJ” hallmark
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900
The present watch is a wonderful example of a Tank Cintrée from the 1960s. Featuring strong hallmarks throughout the case, this watch is preserved in excellent condition, displaying a combination of brushed and polished sharp fnishes, evidencing a lack of intervention to the watch. It furthermore shows Cartier’s fne and superior crafsmanship. The case is particularly large for a 1960s watch, with the rectangular curved case sitting incredibly well on the wrist, showcasing Cartier’s eye for design and proportions. The dial is preserved in excellent condition, with hardly any blemishes or tarnishing. It is signed “Paris” above 6 o’clock. The watch furthermore features blued steel hands, giving the watch a fresh and modern update. It moreover retains its original yellow gold folding deployant clasp which is also numbered and stamped “EJ” for Edmond Jaeger.
C A RT I E R
Tank CintrĂŠe
151.
A rare and extremely fne yellow gold automatic wristwatch with frst series enamel dial and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1955
Reference No.
2526
Movement No.
761’963
Case No.
688’956
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 12-600AT, 30 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
stamped with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∑ $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by box and Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1955 with enamel dial and raised gold indexes, and its subsequent sale on February 2, 1956.
The Patek Philippe reference 2526 is a remarkable timepiece on many accounts. Aesthetically, it features a large 36mm Calatrava-style case with domed screw back with superb wrist presence as well as high elegance.
The true wow-factor of this example however, is its enamel dial with gold printing. The daunting creation process (it is said that for frst series dials, 9 out of 10 pieces had to be discarded during production) commanded a simplifcation of the dial construction; early watches such as the present one - frst series - feature a dial with fared holes for each numeral. Second series enamel dials present no such detail, the indexes being glued to the surface of the enamel. Third series dials are simply made of metal, the enamel construction completely abandoned. Obviously, the intrinsic rarity and beauty of enamel dials - especially frst series - render these timepieces highly collectible. Mechanically, reference 2526 is as impressive as it is aesthetically as it is ftted with the frst automatic movement created by Patek Philippe (cal. 12-600 AT), which was the result of decades of R&D and is considered still to this day one of the most technically advanced and most superbly fnished automatic movements ever made by any brand. Made between 1953 and 1960, reference 2526 remains one of Patek Philippe’s greatest achievements, obtaining the perfect balance between design (the case), crafsmanship (the dial) and mechanics (the movement). The present frst series example fully embodies the ethos of this landmark model and it is ofered in excellent condition, having been recently serviced at Patek Philippe.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 2526
152.
A highly rare, attractive and extremely well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with spider lugs, retailed by Gübelin
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1955
Reference No.
1579
Movement No.
868’852
Case No.
693’213
Model Name
“Anse a Ragno”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’ 130, 23 jewel
Bracelet/Strap
Vintage alligator Patek Philippe strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle stamped PPCo
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 ∑ $62,300-104,000 €56,900-94,800 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1955 and its subsequent sale on January 28, 1957.
Fresh to the auction market, this sensational chronograph wristwatch retailed by Gübelin is an incredible specimen. At frst glance, one cannot help but marvel at the extraordinary condition of the case. It is, in our opinion, among the few examples to have remained in unpolished condition today. The present watch displays very crisp and sharp facets on the lugs. The model responds particularly badly to polishing, as even the lightest intervention dulls its sharp angles. The present example displays an incredibly sharp hallmark to the case band and beneath the lug. The dial is also preserved in excellent condition, and the enamel remains nicely raised. There are barely any signs of aging on the dial. The Gübelin signature is present above 6 o’clock, adding another element of desirability. Most interestingly, the inside case back bears a line and a series of minuscule letters beneath the Patek Philippe signature. Research shows that this was actually an internal code that Gübelin used, which is further evidence of the dial’s legitimacy. To date, only 5 examples of a reference 1579 are known with a Gübelin signed dial, underscoring the rarity of the present timepiece.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 1579 “Anse a Ragno Gübelin”
153.
A highly rare and exceedingly attractive yellow gold wristwatch with pink dial and platinum and yellow gold bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1949
Reference No.
2428
Movement No.
953’172
Case No.
422’113
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 10-200, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold and platinum Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe clasp signed
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Patek-Philippe & Co
Estimate CHF 40,000-70,000 $41,500-72,600 â‚Ź37,900-66,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1949 with raised gold indexes and bracelet in yellow gold and platinum and its subsequent sale on February 15, 1950.
This superlative reference 2428 is a particularly stunning specimen. Preserved in spectacular condition, it features an original pink dial that is very warm and has aged beautifully. Most notably, the raised hard enamel signature does not display any losses. The watch is preserved in most probably unpolished condition as evidenced by the crisp and fne bevels on the lugs. A tiny bit of polishing would have dulled the angles, yet this timepiece has remained unspoiled throughout the years. A further testament to its condition is a sharp and crisp hallmark that is stamped beneath the lug. Most importantly, the present timepiece is accompanied by a lavish and heavy yellow gold and platinum rice grain bracelet which is confrmed in the Extract from the Archives, which is in itself a marvel. Incredibly imposing and arresting, this bi-colour bracelet is singular in appearance. According to research, this bracelet confguration has never appeared on any other Patek Philippe watch. This timepiece is also the only known reference 2428 with any confrmed bracelet, further adding to its unparalleled exclusivity and rarity.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2428 “Original Platinum and Yellow Gold Bracelet”
154.
An important, rare and well preserved yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indicator, German calendar, box and original certifcate
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1985
Reference No.
3450
Movement No.
1’119’781
Case No.
2’808’558
Model Name
“Padellone”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 27-460 QB, 37 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
stamped twice with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
Yellow gold PPCo pin buckle
Dimensions
37,5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 150,000-250,000 $156,000-259,000 €142,000-237,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by Munich retailer Uhren Huber and dated February 2, 1986, setting pin and ftted presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1985 and its subsequent sale on April 15, 1985.
Launched in 1981, reference 3450 was the successor to reference 3448 - Patek Philippe’s very frst automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch. While aesthetically similar to reference 3448, it most notably features a leap year indicator on the dial. In addition, its case back is slightly smaller and is ftted with a “tongue”, enabling it to be easily removed by the wearer.
Notably, it is the frst serially made Patek Philippe wristwatch featuring leap year indication allowing for an easier setting of the exact date; earlier models required a potentially very lengthy synchronisation procedure to manually identify the leap year and then advance to the current year in the cycle. The present watch, manufactured in 1985, is among the very last examples of reference 3450s ever made before the introduction of reference 3940. While the frst generation examples were ftted with a “red dot” to indicate the leap year, second generation examples displayed Roman numerals I, II, III and IV, like the present model. This example is previously unknown and fresh to the auction market. Ofered by the family of the original owner, it remarkably features the Certifcate of Origin and original wooden box. Stamped by German retailer “Uhren Huber” it perfectly fts the German calendar discs found on the watch, a very rare feature in itself. Patek Philippe produced very limited quantities of reference 3450, typically casing the model in yellow gold. To date, scholars estimate that Patek Philippe produced only 237 examples in total. As such, fresh-to-the-market gems hardly ever appear at auction, and they are going to be even more scarce in the future when the last few unknown examples have been found.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Family of Original Owner Ref. 3450 “Padellone”
155.
An extremely rare, highly important and well preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “Second Series”
155.
An extremely rare, highly important and well preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
It is undeniable that Patek Philippe set the blue print for perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatches some 40 or so years before this complication was made on a regular basis by other brands. History was written with the reference 1518; launched in 1941 it was the world’s frst perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch made in series. A decade later, the reference 1518 was replaced by a larger sibling, the reference 2499 that was made for a period of 34 years, until 1985, in four diferent series. A total of 349 pieces were made meaning that less than 10 were leaving Patek Philippe’s ateliers each year! - First series: Square chronograph buttons, applied Arabic numerals and tachometer scale - Second series: Round chronograph buttons, either applied baton or applied Arabic numerals and tachometer scale, of which the present lot is an example. - Third series: Round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals and outer seconds divisions. - Fourth series: Round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions and sapphire crystal.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “Second Series”
155.
An extremely rare, highly important and well preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1957
Reference No.
2499
Movement No.
868’599
Case No.
696’511
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Provenance Private collection of Jean-Claude Biver Estimate CHF 1,000,000-2,000,000 $1,040,000-2,080,000 €948,000-1,900,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming date of production of the present watch in 1957 and its subsequent sale on October 1st, 1958. Literature Reference 2499 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, pp. 302 & 304, and in Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches, Volume II, pp. 306-307.
Interestingly, Patek Philippe chose Vichet to make the brand new reference 2499, but then, shortly afer, switched to Wenger. The Vichet cases are known to have more pronounced and elongated lugs than those produced by Wenger. Also, the early Vichet cases have fat domed casebacks, resulting in the watches resting on their four lugs when put fat on a table, like a contemporary work of art. The present reference 2499 second series is in superb condition with incredibly strong defnition to the lugs and the hallmarks on the lugs remain crisp. The dial will make any collector’s heart beat faster, with a harmonious cream glow and its strong, perfectly preserved raised, hard enamel print. A second series reference 2499 comes to the international auction market ever so rarely and the present model has been in Jean-Claude Biver’s private collection for the largest part of the 21st century and the likelihood that another example graces the auction market soon is remote. There are collectible wristwatches, then there are watches woven from the fabric of dreams, and the present reference 2499 is of the latter.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 2499 “Second Series”
156.
A very rare and extremely attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with two-tone pink dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1942
Reference No.
130
Movement No.
862’926
Case No.
628’799
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal 13-130, 23 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator strap
with the Geneva Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
33mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 35,000-55,000 ∑ $36,300-57,100 €33,200-52,100 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1942 with rose dial, raised gold hour markers and tachometer scale and its subsequent sale on October 15, 1942.
The reference 130 is one of the most storied and researched models made by Patek Philippe. It was frst released in 1934 and remained in production until at least 1964. A legacy watch from the golden age of horology, this chronograph perfectly captures the spirit of traditional watchmaking and the supremely elegant ethos of Patek Philippe. Its case is derived from the Bauhausdesigned reference 96 and was produced in many variations and metals. Some of the earliest timepieces were custom ordered and at times, the single button chronographs featured a Victorin Piguet ébauche, however by the mid-1930s, due to the growing demand from its clientele, in 1936, Patek Philippe introduced the caliber 13-130, using the Valjoux chronograph caliber 13, and added the 130 to indicate it would be used for the now iconic chronograph. The present example is without a doubt one of the most striking iterations of this iconic model; not only it features a rare pink gold case, but it is furthermore ftted with a supremely attractive pink two-tone dial. Property of a discerning collector, the watch was sent for an overhaul at Patek Philippe during which not only the movement was brought back to its original glory, but the case and dial as well. A very rare variation, only 15 “PoP” (Pink on Pink) examples are so far known.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 130 “Pink on Pink”
157.
A highly important, very impressive and extremely fne yellow gold automatic triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases, luminous star dial and bracelet
Fully infused with Rolex’s genetic codes with its Oyster case, in-house automatic movement and Jubilee bracelet, reference 6062 further features a complication only seen in another reference (non-waterproof reference 8171): a triple calendar and moonphase display. Known at the time as a brand specialising in professional timepieces rather than dress watch, it was extremely unusual for Rolex to venture into the realm of complicated calendar watches, and the fact that they made only two such models testifed to this. In fact, the market regarded with suspicion these more complicated Rolex creations, resulting in their current remarkable scarcity. Launched in 1950, and produced for only a handful of years, this reference was available in stainless steel, yellow gold and pink gold, and ofered with diferent dial variations. The faceted star dial, as seen on the present watch, is beyond doubt the most whimsical and collectible of all the variations, so much that the watch was given its nickname “Stelline” (“Small stars” in Italian). In fact, luminous star dials come in two diferent variations: one with luminous accents present next to the star indexes, and the present more collectible one, where the star indexes present a recess at the centre into which the luminous material is applied. Rolex considered the model a top-of-theline timepiece, with an in-house automatic movement, and upgraded with a full calendar and moonphase indication. When introduced, ref. 6062 was groundbreaking: it was the frst automatic watch with triple calendar and moonphase indication housed in a water-resistant case to ever grace the market.
RO L E X
Ref. 6062 Oyster Perpetual “Stelline”
157.
A highly important, very impressive and extremely fne yellow gold automatic triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases, luminous star dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1951
Reference No.
6062
Movement No.
N32558
Case No.
690’031
Model Name
Oyster Perpetual “Stelline”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 9 3/4’’’, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“1 50”
Estimate CHF 150,000-300,000 $156,000-311,000 €142,000-284,000
The present yellow gold reference 6062 has been lovingly taken care of by its current owner and it remains in very honest condition. The case is strong and fully preserves its original proportions. The dial graphics are fawless, and the day and date apertures are sharp and angular, demonstrating the originality of the dial. A strong patina has developed with age, increasing the vintage allure of the watch. The luminous material has been very carefully restored to a warm camel hue, perfectly harmonising with the rest of the dial. This example of the model furthermore comes with its original 18-karat yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet stamped “1 50” to the clasp, adding inimitable panache to the model.
RO L E X
Ref. 6062 Oyster Perpetual “Stelline”
158.
OMEGA — A fne stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1968
Reference No.
105.012-66
Movement No.
24’948’304
Model Name
Speedmaster
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “1 71”
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400 Accessories Accompanied by Omega ftted presentation box. Furthermore delivered with Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of this watch and its subsequent delivery to Germany in 1968.
The Omega reference 105.012-66 was released in 1964 and has been afectionately named the “Moonwatch” as lunar module pilot Buzz Aldrin wore this model on his space mission, which landed himself and Neil Armstrong on the moon for the frst on July 20, 1969. The reference was the frst to feature the “Professional” signature on the dial and became one of the leading watches wore by NASA astronauts during the late 1960s and early 1970s. The present example stands out due to its unrestored nature, retaining its original dial without a trace of intervention and featuring an impressive case fully preserving its original shapes and proportions. The presence of the stainless steel bracelet adds a fnal layer of collectability and appeal.
159.
BREITLING — A very attractive, well-preserved and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and oversized 15-minutes register accompanied with dashboard clock
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1967
Reference No.
765 CP
Case No.
1’140’880
Model Name
Co-Pilot
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 178, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Breitling leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400 Accessories Accompanied by Breitling dashboard chronograph. Furthermore delivered with Breitling Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in April 1967.
Established in 1884, Breitling is best known for their aviationrelated timepieces such as the iconic Navitimer. But the manufacturer was an early pioneer in the development of wristwatch chronographs, with their innovative tool watches supplying armed forces worldwide, as well as timepieces for racing, diving, and leisure activities. The Breitling 765 Co-Pilot was created, for airplane pilots, who benefted from an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and twelve hour rotating bezel. The Co-Pilot replaced an earlier reference 765 “Digital” that featured a digital minutes counter at 3 o’clock and incorporated an oversized minute counter ftted with large luminous indicators at each three minute increment.
The 765 Co-Pilot has appeared on the wrists of Jean-Claude Killy, the famous Swiss alpine ski racer, and Raquel Welch, the prominent mid-century actress and sex symbol. She wore a 765 Co-Pilot with steel bezel in the James Bond spoof movie, Fathom (1967). Killy chose instead to wear it afer he won all three gold medals in alpine skiing at the 1968 Winter Olympics in Grenoble, France. The present 765 Co-Pilot shares the same movement as the more well-known Navitimer, the Venus 178, and can be considered one of the best preserved Co-Pilots to come to market in recent memory. The stainless steel case is completely unpolished, and the bezel is in extremely crisp and unblemished condition. For the delight of the collector, the watch comes accompanied by a period Breitling dashboard chronograph. It actually features two chronographs: a 30-minutes chronograph, operated by the pusher at 4 o’ clock, presents a “red dot” window to indicate its state: red for running, red and white for stopped and white for reset and ready to go. The independent 12-hour chronograph at 12 o’clock is instead operated by turning the lever at 2 o’clock: it jumps to three positions for the classic start-stop-reset operations.
160.
A rare and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with black lacquer dial, bracelet, original hang tag, invoice, guarantee, chronometer paper and presentation box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
1675
Movement No.
D34’190
Case No.
1’533’793
Model Name
GMT-Master
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2.60
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,900-51,900 €23,700-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex hangtag, invoice dated 19 August, 1967, guarantee, chronometer paper February 22, 1967, product literature, wallet and presentation box.
Reference 1675 was introduced in 1960 as the successor of the reference 6542. Instead of a bakelite bezel, the model was ftted with a metal insert which was much more durable than its predecessor.
The present watch is distinguished by its excellent state of preservation and presence of all its original documents. Originally sold at the U.S. Navy Exchange in Yokohama, this timepiece is accompanied by its hangtag, invoice dated 19 August, 1967, guarantee, chronometer paper February 22, 1967, product literature, wallet and presentation box. It is even accompanied by a black and white photo of the U.S. Navy Exchange in Yokohama. This is very remarkable, considering that this watch was produced over 50 years ago. Furthermore, its state of preservation is particularly noteworthy. The case is preserved in excellent condition and the bevels are still present. There are sharp fnishes to the top of the lugs, and all proportions are robust and full. The black lacquer dial, which is correct for the serial number, is incredibly glossy and shiny with barely any marks. Furthermore, the luminous material has aged evenly with the hands and both display even and warm patina throughout.
RO L E X
Ref. 1675 GMT-Master “Full-Set Glossy Dial”
161.
A very rare and unusual stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with orange chronograph hand, bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1967
Reference No.
ST 145.012-67 SP
Movement No.
26’077’193
Model Name
Speedmaster “Ultraman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet stamped “516” to the endlinks, max length 225mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“1039” and “3 68”
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Omega ftted presentation box and Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with orange chronograph hand and its subsequent sale in Sweden on September 20, 1967.
Though stories of aliens had been part of folklore for centuries, stories of men defending Earth from alien invaders became more pervasive in popular culture once the idea of entering space became a reality. And thus, in the mid-1960s, Japanese director Eiji Tsuburaya (co-creator of the original Godzilla series) began writing what would become the Ultraman series,
centred about an extraterrestrial force and its human host defending the earth from alien threats. In 1971, Tsuburaya’s son spearheaded the production of a new series: Ultraman Returns. According to Omega, the producers of Ultraman Returns selected Omega’s “Moonwatch” as part of the Monster Attack Team’s monster fghting kit. As mankind was developing the technologies required to enter space, they were also testing the means of timing their eforts in that harsh environment. The Omega Speedmaster reference 145.012-67 was the last Speedmaster model to be ftted with the renowned caliber 321 and is set apart from its predecessors by its ‘SP’ (‘SP’ for “Spécial Poussoirs” or “special pushers”) that increased water resistance. Though it is not known why a selection of the reference 145.012-67 were ftted with an orange chronograph hand – legibility is one theory – it is estimated that less than ffy correct examples exist with this bold detail. As it is quite easy to mount an orange hand on a standard example of the reference - assuming one has the hand - it is highly important for Ultraman pieces to be certifed by Omega, who has the record of which specimens were ftted with the orange hand, these watches typically falling within a certain serial number range - between 26’076’XXX and 26’079’XXX With the introduction in the summer of 2018 of the immensely successful Speedy Tuesday Ultraman limited edition, interest in vintage Ultraman Speedmasters has dramatically increased. The present lot, preserved in superb condition, is a remarkable opportunity for the collector of unusual and rare vintage pieces to own one of the fabled Ultraman Speedmaster.
OMEGA Speedmaster “Ultraman”
162.
An early and very rare stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with “Floating Cosmograph” dial, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1987
Reference No.
16520
Movement No.
12’881
Case No.
R975963
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “503” and “78360”, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“M9” and “78360”
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most innovative models to date. Housing a heavily modifed Zenith-based caliber 4030 mechanism, the model was ftted with the frst automatic chronograph movement in the frm’s history. At the time of its launch in 1988, the watch garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers – much like its descendant, the reference 116500LN would do in 2016.
As it ofen happens with Rolex timepieces, one can notice a subtle but well-defned evolution of the dial design in the early years of the model, a result of Rolex perfecting the architecture of the timepiece possibly following “real world” feedback. The earliest specimens - such as the present watch - feature fve lines of script at 12, but the ffh line “Cosmograph” is noticeably more spaced from the 4th line, compared to the spacing between all the other lines. This gives the impression of the word Cosmograph foating away from the rest, thus its nickname “Floating Cosmograph” (or “Staccato”, as it is known to Italian collectors). Given its status as the earliest iteration of the dial and its supreme scarcity, this confguration is considered one of the most collectable versions of the Zenith Daytona. Successive evolutions consist in the removal of the 5th line of script - also a variation in production for a short time, followed by the re-introduction of the ffh line albeit with equal spacing. This is the fnal confguration of the script, but not the fnal evolution of the dial: all these iterations feature an “inverted 6” (that is: the 6 is written upside down) in the counter at 6 o’clock. In the early 1990s, afer the introduction of the 5 lines confguration, the graphics are once again updated and the 6 is upside up. The bezel as well is particular, it is the very frst iteration for this reference with the tachymeter scale stopping at 200. Later iterations will see the scale go all the way to 400 (frst, for a short while, featuring indications for 200, 225, 250, 300 and 400 units per hour; later, featuring a simpler layout with 200, 240, 300 and 400)
RO L E X
Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
163.
An attractive and very well preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with sigma dial, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1976
Reference No.
6263
Movement No.
6988
Case No.
4’028’195
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Sigma Dial”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78350 19” and “571 to the clasp, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “1 76”
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $41,500-83,000 €37,900-75,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee stamped by Italian retailer Calderoni Gioielli and dated “Christmas 1976”,green document holder, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 6263 was in production - together with its metalbezel sibling reference 6265 - since the late 1960s until 1987. The fnal evolution of the manual Daytona line, it is considered by many the most representative and iconic reference of the line, incorporating all the details which made the Daytona a masterpiece of design: bezel with black insert bearing a tachymetre scale, screw-down pushers, and the unmistakable Rolex Oyster case.
The present version with black dial and silver subdials has a stealth and sporty feel but also grants the timepiece an undeniably enormous aesthetic impact thanks to the black/ white chromatic scheme which alternates obviously on the dial, but on the case as well thanks to the black bezel contrasting with the shiny metal. The present example manufactured circa 1975 is a variant from the norm as it features an elegant and attractive “Sigma’” dial. The “T Swiss T” signature at 6 o’clock is fanked by the Greek symbol Sigma, denoting the markers are white gold. Research shows that the “Sigma” notation appeared on Rolex dials in the early 1970s, following the issue of a set of guidelines by APRIOR (Association pour la promotion industrielle de l’or: Association for the industrial promotion of gold). Such guidelines indeed suggested (but it was not compulsory, hence not all dials with gold bear the sigma) to add the Greek letter sigma to the dial of watches bearing gold details (such as the markers, in this case). Possibly due to the very cryptic nature of this designation, it was abandoned afer a few years. In overall very pleasing condition with its crisp case and well preserved dial, the present Cosmograph with sigma dial is a rare variant of an already very desirable model. The presence of its original box and papers is a fnal addition that classifes this watch as one of the “best in class” for the confguration. A poetic note to the ensemble is given by the fact that the guarantee card (issued by Italian retailer Calderoni Gioielli) does not bear a specifc date, but it instead reads “Natale 76”: Christmas 76, betraying the fact that the present watch was most probably originally intended as a Christmas present.
RO L E X
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Sigma Dial”
164.
A rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1969
Reference No.
6239
Case No.
1’997’758
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated September 30, 1970, original caseback sticker, multiple service documents and presentation box.
Reference 6239 was the very frst model within the iconic Cosmograph Daytona family, and was produced from approximately 1963 until 1976. Available in stainless steel, 14K and 18K gold, reference 6239 was the frm’s frst chronograph with the tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel. The model was originally announced as the “Le Mans”. It was eventually named the “Daytona” afer the 24 Hours of Daytona automobile race. Preserved in excellent condition, the present timepiece displays a black “Paul Newman” dial. There is a “T Swiss T” printed in slanted script at 6 o’clock known as the “sing song” - a common feature of reference 6239 Paul Newman dials of the era. It is furthermore accompanied by many original documents such as the Rolex guarantee dated September 30, 1970 (that also has the original caseback sticker stuck on it), multiple service documents and presentation box.
RO L E X
Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
165.
A very rare and extremely attractive yellow gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, blue Stella dial, German calendar and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1982
Reference No.
18038
Movement No.
0735087
Case No.
7’388’008, retailer number 735449+Z3
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet stamped “55” to the endlinks, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex hidden deployant clasp
Dimensions
35.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
stamped “J6” and “8385”
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400
Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. This superlative Day-Date is ftted with a beautiful light blue “Stella” dial. Preserved in almost pristine condition, the dial impresses with its beautiful fnish. There are no cracks on the dial, and the luminous dots are intact throughout and have acquired a charming vanilla hue. Adding extra appeal is the fact that scratched under the lug one can fnd the Beyer inventory numbers demonstrating that the watch was retailed by the famed Zurich based retailer, which further explains the German calendar. Dazzling and shining, it is a truly impressive timepiece and a remarkable representative of the “Stella” family. First introduced to the market in the 1970s, it is very likely these dials wanted to capture the carefree and glitzy vibe of the seventies through shiny lacquered dials (Stella means star in Italian, a nod to the radiance of the dial). Presented in 1978, reference 18038 introduced the quick set date function (made possible with the caliber 3055) and sapphire crystal - two upgrades from reference 1803, which was ftted with an acrylic crystal and did not allow the wearer to swifly change the date by pulling out the crown halfway. In overall very appealing condition the present Day-Date with light blue dial is glamorous, sophisticated and functional.
RO L E X
Ref. 18038 Day-Date “Baby Blue Stella”
166.
ROLEX — A charming, unusual and very rare yellow, pink and white gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, briarwood dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1986
Reference No.
18039B
Movement No.
1’928’998
Case No.
9’586’742
Model Name
Day-Date “Tridor”
Material
18K white and 18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white, yellow and pink gold Rolex President bracelet stamped “55” to the endlinks, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white, yellow and pink gold Rolex hidden
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
deployant clasp stamped “548 L6”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700
Among all Rolex lines of watches, the Day-Date model is the one that presents the most impressive plethora of variations, with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-fnished designs. Since its inception in 1956, the model remains one of the most surprising and diverse fagship models Rolex has ever produced. Intended to be a luxury proposal in the Rolex line, apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamour and prestige. This wonderfully preserved Day-Date features a beautiful briar root wood dial. Given that the wood is a natural material, no two wood dials are exactly the same in appearance making each example virtually unique. Furthermore, it is particularly rare to fnd an example featuring a two-tone case and Tridor bracelet. Tridor is the name given by Rolex to its proprietary bracelet construction in three gold colours, with the central links featuring the three gold variations for a truly unique aesthetic efect. This particular example is preserved in particularly impressive and absolutely unrestored condition, with an obviously unpolished case featuring crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs, absolutely sharp edges to the lugs and, equally sharp ribbing to the bezel.
167.
ROLEX — A very rare and attractive yellow gold quartz wristwatch with day, date, center seconds and “Pyramide” bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1987
Reference No.
19028 further stamped 19000 inside caseback
Movement No.
0’104’924
Case No.
9’723’135
Model Name
OysterQuartz Day-Date
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Quartz, cal. 5055, 11 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex bracelet with “Pyramide” center links, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex concealed folding deployant
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
clasp stamped “19028”
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400 Literature For another example of reference 19028, please see Day-Date, The Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo, page 438.
From the 1970s, Rolex decided to develop its own in-house quartz movements. Starting with the caliber 5035 for the DateJust, they soon developed the caliber 5055 for the DayDate. A new line named “OysterQuartz” was soon released, and was the model decorated with a variety of design fourishes. The model displays an angular case, an integrated bracelet, a fat sapphire crystal and most importantly, ticking seconds. The present reference 19028 distinguished itself by a sculptural design. Nicknamed “Pyramide”, the bezel and the bracelet’s center links are composed of small shapes that recalls its namesake. Rare and extremely sought afer, this model responds particularly badly to overpolishing, yet the present example is preserved in excellent condition.
168.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with vermilion “Stella” dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No.
1803
Movement No.
DD106327
Case No.
4’137’231
Model Name
Day-Date “Stella”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900
Among the most collectible of all Day-Dates are ones ftted with lacquer “Stella” dials. Translucent yet vibrant, “Stella” dials ofer so much exclusivity to the wearer, as no lacquer dial is exactly the same in appearance. Rolex adorned their Day-Date watches with a range of lacquer dials, ranging from yellow to mint green and even a stunning orange tone, like the present watch. The present Day-Date, reference 1803, features a rich and incredibly glossy vermilion “Stella” dial, which contrasts vibrantly against the yellow gold baton indexes. Despite being over 40 years of age, the dial still retains its highly glossy fnish, just as if it lef the factory yesterday. It is preserved in excellent condition, with no cracks or hairlines at all. All luminous dots are present and perfectly match the luminous on the hands.
RO L E X
Ref. 1803 Day-Date “Vermilion Stella”
169.
A rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and hangtag
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No.
18346
Movement No.
5’611’453
Case No.
E’254’601
Model Name
Day-Date
Material
Platinum and diamonds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Platinum Rolex President bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, service paper and tag.
Cased in platinum, reference 18346 most notably features a diamond-set bezel and sapphire crystal. The last digit “6” represents Rolex’s use of platinum. Heavy, lavish and luxurious, platinum is known as the noblest of all metals. Displaying a light caramel dial featuring brilliant diamonds, as well as a diamond bezel, this timepiece is completely dazzling. Platinum is the rarest case metal for serially produced Day-Date models, and this particular watch, preserved in excellent and most probably unpolished condition, is nothing short of spectacular. It is furthermore accompanied by its original guarantee and sales tag, further adding to its collectibility.
RO L E X
Ref. 18346 Day-Date
170.
ROLEX — A fne, rare and perfectly preserved diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, gas escape valve, bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1983
Reference No.
16660
Movement No.
1’526’748
Case No.
8’414’354
Model Name
Sea-Dweller
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “592” and “93160” to the endlinks, max length 215mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex extendable deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
stamped “H” and “93160”
Estimate CHF 12,000-20,000 $12,500-20,800 €11,400-19,000 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee stamped by Auckland retailer Mansor’s Jewelers and dated February 26, 1987, 2 additional endlinks, 1 additional endlink with extendable fap, numbered sale tag, Rolex Service card dated October 6, 2010, bracelet removal tool, anchor, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
Reference 16660 was introduced in 1978 and remained in production for only a decade, being discontinued in 1988. Highly collectible and sought-afer, the model is in the eyes of Rolex collectors a sort of transitional link between “old school” production and the modern one. In fact, the watch was originally devised bearing a matt dial with tritium lume
plots applied directly on it - such as the present version - thus following in the path of its ancestor reference 1665. However, later examples of reference 16660 feature gold-rimmed indexes and gloss dial, traits which will come to defne the later production of Rolex diver’s watches. The caseback as well presents an evolution; early versions read “Rolex Patent” where as later versions were changed to “Rolex Oyster Original Gas Escape Valve” such as in the caseback of the present watch. Ofered in excellent condition of both case and dial, and complete with all its accessories, the quality of this timepiece is further boasted by the presence of the Rolex Service card indicating that an overhaul was made in 2010. The fact that the case dates back to 1983 but the watch was sold only in 1987 is a good barometer of the market for such a kind of highly professional diver’s timepieces at the time, which brings a smile to one’s lips when comparing it to its current sought-afer status.
171.
ROLEX — A rare and very attractive stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, chocolate “tropical” dial, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
1680
Movement No.
D701094
Case No.
2’355’441
Model Name
Submariner “Red Sub”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “380” and “9315” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex extendable deployant
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
clasp stamped “B”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee, product literature, green document holder, numbered sale tag, red Rolex “faux seal” tag, plastic anchor, presentation box and outer packaging.
Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the frst Submariner model to be ftted with a date function. Early examples, such as the present one, display a ‘meters frst’ depth rating, with the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name “Red Sub”, while later examples feature white graphics. Red Subs are today extremely sought-afer timepieces in virtue of their aesthetic quirkiness and of their historical importance as the frst Submariner examples with date.
Even within the Red Submariner family of dials, one can notice an evolution of the graphics with 6 variations (Marks). The present early specimen features a Mark III dial, recognizable from the meter frst arrangement of the depth rating, a feature shared by Mark I to Mark III dials. Mark III dials are furthermore defned by the thicker font - compared to MK II - used for the depth rating as well as an “open” 6. The “Submariner” designation in Mark III dials is printed directly on the black background, while MKII dials feature a white plot which is visible underneath the red ink.
Mark III dials can be found on examples from about 2.15M serial to 2.45M - alongside MKII dials as both were made at the same time. The rarity of this variation is apparent when considering that the total amount of MK II and III dials combined represents about 6% of the total number of 1680 appeared on the market.
The present “Red Sub” is made even more collectible and attractive by its dark chocolate dial, the topical hue absolutely even throughout the entirety of the dial. A further appeal is given by the “complete” nature of this watch which is accompanied by its original punched guarantee, booklets, green document holder and the box featuring to the inside the ultimate 1970s token: a card happily informing the owner that the box can double as cigarette container.
172.
An early and very rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet, gas escape valve, “double red” Mk2 dial, patent pending case, punched guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1970
Reference No.
1665 inside caseback stamped IV.67, three last digits of serial number also stamped
Case No.
2’247’948
Model Name
Sea-Dweller “Patent Pending”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Oyster Rolex bracelet, reference 9315, end links stamped 285, max. length 240mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex fip lock with extendable
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
deployant clasp, stamped 1.70.
Estimate CHF 70,000-100,000 $72,600-104,000 €66,400-94,800 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex ftted box, punched guarantee and numerous Rolex service papers documenting service history of the watch as well as letter signed by original owner describing the story of the watch.
The Sea-Dweller was launched in 1967 and catered to underwater divers needing a watch that could withstand deep dives. As such it could withstand dives to a whopping 2000f (610m). The Sea-Dweller saw the ingenious addition of a helium escape valve. When working in helium-rich atmospheres, tiny helium molecules would seep through the crystal and rubber gaskets into the watch and create pressure once the diver
had surfaced. This would result in the crystal popping of. The development of the valve was meant to prevent this issue by letting the gas escape the watch case. Rolex worked with a number of divers and organizations around the world to aide in the Sea-Dweller’s development, the name itself is a direct nod to the fact that the model had been developed to meet the demands of scientists living - or “dwelling” - under the sea. Following the positive results obtained with these companies, Rolex went on to publicly commercialize the model. The earliest iterations engraved with “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on their case backs are highly sought afer. These earliest models were in efect prototypes and their caseback interiors feature the last three digits of the watch’s serial number - stamped 948 on the present example. There is furthermore a small hole near the teeth of the outer caseback; this is correct as Rolex drilled a hole to hold the caseback in place while they engraved the text on the outer rim. As another added bonus, the bracelet is stamped “Pat. Pend.” which is accurate for the period. The dial details are characteristic of the Mark II variant of “Double red Sea-Dweller” dials, with a small oval at the base of the coronet and the “D” in “Dweller” aligned with the “I” in “Submariner”. The watch in overall very pleasing condition comes with a letter from the original owner explaining the history of the watch as well as a series of Rolex service papers as of 1977 fully documenting the service history of the watch.
RO L E X Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller “Patent Pending”
173.
A rare and very well preserved stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial without depth script
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1956
Reference No.
6536/1 inside case back stamped II.56
Case No.
155’142
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel riveted Oyster bracelet reference 7206, endlinks stamped 56, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 3.69
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-80,000 $51,900-83,000 €47,400-75,900
The Rolex Submariner, especially the earlier versions, are gaining incredible popularity with collectors. Introduced in 1955, reference 6536/1 replaced reference 6536 and remained in production until 1959. Today, it is one of the most sought-afer vintage Submariner references due to its design and modern proportions. The present example is stunningly preserved with thick lugs, large crisp bevels and strong proportions. The dial is in equally impressive condition with its strong gilt print. The luminous marker at 6 o’clock is most notably much brighter than the other lume plots. This feature allowed divers to orient themselves in the dark. The connoisseur will notice a small - yet very rare – detail on the lower part of the dial, the depth rating indicates the numbers without depth script. Commonly this reference will feature a rating of 100m/300f whereas here m(eters) and f(eet) are not mentioned leaving just 100/300 making the present 6536/1 one of the rarest examples with this dial combination. Its overall rarity and impeccable condition make the present Submariner a trophy for the connoisseur of rare timepieces.
RO L E X
Ref. 6536/1 Submariner “Small Crown 100/330”
174.
A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with dial displaying “Sigma” symbols, bracelet, box and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No.
6265
Case No.
3’048’142
Model Name
Oyster Cosmograph
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex bracelet, reference 7835 19, end links stamped 271, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 35,000-55,000 $36,300-57,100 €33,200-52,100 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex ftted presentation box and original guarantee dated October 25, 1973.
In 1969, Rolex simultaneously launched references 6263 and 6265, replacing the frst Oyster Cosmograph– reference 6240. The Cosmograph Daytona with screw-down pushers was in production for almost 20 years and was ofered with both acrylic or metal bezel in either stainless steel or gold case.
From 1971, the dial correctly displays the “T Swiss T” designation at 6 o’clock to mention the use of tritium as luminous material for the indexes. In addition, a Greek symbol called Sigma surrounds the Ts denoting that the markers are in gold. In the late 60s, a group of Swiss watchmakers who were members of APRIOR (Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l’Or) formed an ofcial initiative with the goal to formalize the standards for the use of gold in watches by watchmakers – especially on steel watches since stainless steel and white gold are similar in colour. According to a US Patent Ofce Registration Certifcate, the Sigma mark certifes that the goods are of Swiss origin and contain solid gold up to a certain standard as established by the Swiss statutory requirements which include the control of the use of gold, the specifcation of standards and quality that had to be met. This symbol was in used from 1970 for approximately fve years before it was abandoned. The present reference 6265 from 1971 is presented at auction as a full set; the watch is accompanied by its original box with outer packaging, the original guarantee dated October 25, 1973 and stamped by the Madrid based retailer Vendrell Joyero. The combination of silver dial and stainless steel bracelet give it a stealth appeal that makes it the perfect watch for any occasion.
RO L E X
Ref. 6265 Oyster Cosmograph “Sigma Dial”
175.
A rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No.
6238
Case No.
1’422’435
Model Name
“Pre-Daytona”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 722, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Vintage Rolex alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
Gold plated Rolex buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 70,000-140,000 ∑ $72,600-145,000 €66,400-133,000
Known as the “Pre-Daytona”, reference 6238 was the very last chronograph model that Rolex produced following the introduction of the Cosmograph in 1963. This particular model was produced during the very last years of the reference’s production period. The date of manufacture most notably overlaps with the production period of reference 6239. Cased in 18K yellow gold, this reference 6238 is presented in impressive condition and is much rarer than its stainless steel siblings. The case is preserved in crisp and excellent condition. Two hallmarks are visible and sharp beneath the lugs. Furthermore, this particular dial has been preserved in excellent condition and displays round, luminous dots that have aged evenly with the hands. As an ever nicer touch, it’s accompanied by vintage Rolex leather strap, boosting its charm and allure.
RO L E X
Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
176.
A highly rare and attractive 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1977
Reference No.
6265
Movement No.
1794
Case No.
5’060’477
Model Name
Cosmograph
Material
14K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 727, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-100,000 $62,300-104,000 €56,900-94,800
Reference 6265 was introduced to the market approximately in 1970 and was made until 1987. While the reference was mainly cased in stainless steel, limited amounts were also cased in 18K or 14K yellow gold. Reference 6265 was in production for almost 20 years, yet no more than 2000 examples were cased in gold. From the late 1970s and onwards, gold examples featured a movement number engraved on the plate behind the balance wheel. Research suggests that this was related to the ofcially certifed chronometer movement. Around this period, Rolex modifed the dial layout for gold versions, and the ‘OCC’ designation was printed on the dial. The present watch is cased in 14K yellow gold and was most probably delivered to the American market. It is preserved in excellent and crisp condition with sharp fnishes on the top of the lugs. It is furthermore accompanied by a 14K yellow gold Oyster bracelet which is a rarity in itself.
RO L E X
Ref. 6265 Cosmograph
177.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with date, bracelet, invoice, guarantee and wallet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1971
Reference No.
1675 inside caseback stamped II.70
Movement No.
D’214’261
Case No.
2’910’867
Model Name
GMT-Master “Mk 1”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-18,000 Ό $12,500-18,700 €11,400-17,100 Accessories Accompanied by two Rolex punched guarantees, original sales slip, documents and wallet.
The present “Mk 1” reference 1675 is characterized by the “Long E” in “Rolex”. This particular example is presented in excellent condition with thick bevels and crisp edges throughout. The bezel has furthermore faded to a wonderful cherry red/baby blue tone. Even more impressive are its accompanying documents such as two Rolex punched guarantees, original sales slip, documents and wallet. The watch was most notably sold at the Philippines Area and Air Force Exchange Service, giving a glimpse into how this timepiece was originally delivered.
178.
ROLEX — An attractive and rare stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch with centre seconds and silver dial with guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1979
Reference No.
1019
Movement No.
M’712’617
Case No.
6’137’006
Model Name
Milgauss
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1580, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, end links stamped 558, max length 185mm.
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex warranty, product literature and ftted box.
It was whilst working in magnetic environments that scientists at the Geneva-based CERN - Centre Européen de Recherche Nucléaire (European Organization for Nuclear Research), realized their need for a timepiece that could withstand the adverse efects of these felds on their timepieces.
The Milgauss was the result of the direct collaboration between Rolex and CERN, a watch that could withstand the efects of the intense magnetic felds the CERN’s engineers and scientists were working in. Deriving its name from the Latin “mille”, meaning thousand, and “Gauss” representing the unit measure for magnetism, the Milgauss could withstand exposure of up to 1000 Gauss with no efect on accuracy, whereas a typical watch movement can only withstand up to 70-90 Gauss. In the early 1960s, the newly introduced Rolex Milgauss reference 1019, like the present lot, replaced the original two versions: references 6541 and 6543. Signifcantly thinner than its predecessors, it was manufactured until 1990 and was available only in stainless steel. An extremely niche tool watch, the Milgauss was never a commercial success and consequently production numbers were low. Being from the late 1980s, its dial features luminous dots placed outside the applied hour markers, and its distinctive hands are in matte fnished aluminum. The present example comes full with Rolex guarantee, paperwork and ftted box which along with its large diameter and excellent wearability make a great value proposition to the connoisseur of vintage wristwatches.
179.
A highly rare and very attractive dual time wristwatch with bakelite bezel, date and bracelet
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1955
Reference No.
6542
Movement No.
N’692’209
Case No.
112’196
Model Name
GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 1066, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel expandable Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 58, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.60
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000 ∆ $83,000-166,000 €75,900-152,000 Literature For another example of a reference 6542 with Bakelite bezel, see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 192.
First released in in 1954, the GMT-Master was designed for pilots to use in their line of work. With the rise of international travel in the 1940s and 1950s, Rolex initially created the model for Pan Am airlines to track dual time zones. Reference 6542 featured an ingenious design: the immediately recognizable bakelite bezel with twenty-four hour numerals painted on the underside, made to glow in any weather condition. Bakelite was Rolex’s material of choice, due to its low refectivity and high readability. The additional luminous 24 hour tipped hand allowed the viewer to immediately track a second time zone. Bakelite is an incredibly fragile material, so much that most existing ones are now cracked with years of wear. Thus, to fnd on that is intact, is a true anomaly in itself. Given that GMT-Masters were intended to be a “tool watch”, they were ofen chosen for everyday wear. As such most existing examples have been polished and heavily worn - ftting, as watches dressed in yellow gold or pink gold livery were considered the most valuable. To discover one, displaying its bevels and original luminous material, such as the present example, is any collector’s dream come true.
RO L E X
Ref. 6542 GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
180.
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “APH” dial, bracelet, hang tag and guarantee
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
2012
Reference No.
116520
Case No.
8R’3S4’248
Model Name
“Cosmograph Daytona APH”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex numbered hang tag and guarantee card.
Reference 116520 replaced its predecessor reference 16520 in 2000. It most notably features caliber 4130, which is Rolex’s frst in-house chronograph movement. Today, it is an iconic model, representing one of Rolex’s many technical strides throughout horological history. The present watch is an extremely rare variant within the 116520 family, and is nicknamed the “APH Daytona” due to its dial confguration. Produced between approximately 2011 to 2014, this version displays a gap between the “R” and “APH” in “Cosmograph” on the dial. It is incredibly rare to fnd this dial version, no less in such original and crisp condition. The present watch is furthermore accompanied by its original guarantee and numbered hang tag.
181.
ROLEX — A fne and outstandingly well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Guarantee and box
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1998
Reference No.
16520
Movement No.
144’518
Case No.
U329471
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “803B” and “78390A” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“”78390” and “DT11”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee stamped by Taiwan retailer Yung Dah Watch Co., service invoice dated May 17, 2004, green card holder, product literature, ftted presentation box and outer packaging.
The 165xx series of timepieces marks the inception of an automatic movement in the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1988 and in production until circa 2000 , the models are powered by a Zenith El Primero ébauche modifed by Rolex.
The arrival of this model is what prompted for the frst time collectors to “discover” the Cosmograph Daytona as a collectible timepiece; Zenith’s supply of movement was slow, thus making this model the frst Daytona to present a waiting list for clients. The relative scarcity of the model combined with historical importance, looks and practicality have made the series highly coveted by collectors and the Zenith Daytona is now considered a true milestone for Rolex both under a technical point of view and under a design point of view as well; the subsidiary dials with contrasting chapter rings - still in use today - made in fact their inception with these models. Ofered in excellent condition and complete with its original Guarantee, the present timepiece is an enticing ofer for the enthusiast as well as for the most serious of collectors.
182.
UNIVERSAL — A fne, unusual and very attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “aide memoire” subdial and double crown
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1942
Reference No.
22477
Case No.
876’736
Model Name
Aero-Compax
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 287, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-8,000 $5,200-8,300 €4,700-7,600 Accessories Accompanied by Universal Genève Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in this confguration in 1942.
The present watch is an example of tool watches from the mid 20th century, an intended destination which explains its generous dimensions and the presence of the luminous hands. It is as aesthetically appealing as it is collectible. The additional “aide memoire” dial at 12 0’ clock can be operated via the crown at 9 and displays a fxed time, intended to serve as a reminder to the wearer of the time of important occurrences (such as a take-of time): a sort of very early precursor of the current Reminders app found in an Iphone. The present example is undoubtedly one of the most charismatic and best preserved examples to appear in an auction room: the case did not sufer invasive polishing and perfectly retains its proportions. The dial as well not only is unrestored, but it furthermore arrives to us in impeccable condition: an unusual occurrence as this kind of dials tend to age with spotting and oxidation marks. The only hint to the passage of time is instead, in this instance, a supremely attractive and even ivory patina.
183.
OMEGA — A well preserved stainless steel diver’s automatic wristwatch with center seconds, revolving bakelite bezel and bracelet
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1964
Reference No.
165.014-64
Movement No.
22’994’142
Model Name
Seamaster 300
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal 552, 24 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet stamped “506” to the endlinks, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp stamped
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
case, dial, movement and clasp signed
“7912” and “1 66”
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives.
Reference 165.014 is an extremely interesting model in the history of the line, as it is a somewhat transitional piece, a link between the early case and dial designs of its progenitor reference 2913 and the later evolutions. The reference number of the model itself presents a transition of sorts: when the model was launched in 1960 it was called reference CK14755, but in 1962 Omega changed its reference system and the model was renamed 165.014. It will be succeeded by reference 164.024. The case design follows that of its ancestor, with straight lugs and a bezel featuring a narrow bakelite insert. The dial, intriguingly, can be of two diferent kinds: early versions feature a similar layout as reference 2913, with dagger numerals, while examples from the end of production feature the baton markers that will be employed on later models. The presence of its original bracelet confers to this piece an additional layer of appeal.
184.
UNIVERSAL — A very rare and extremely well-preserved stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and bespoke blue dial bearing the Iraqi Crest and the signature of Saddam Hussein
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1974
Reference No.
867’101
Case No.
3’184’755
Model Name
White Shadow
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2-67, 25 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Universal pin buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 ∙ ∑ $5,200-10,400 €4,700-9,500
“White Shadow” is the name reserved by Universal for a line of automatic wristwatches launched in mid-1960s. Their most remarkable trait resided in the movement which was powered by an exclusive and groundbreaking automatic calibre. Fitted with a micro-rotor (practically science-fction, at the time), the movement was the thinnest automatic caliber at the time of its introduction, a record it would hold for more than a decade.
Mainly cased in a typical 1960-style featuring an architecture with lugs integrated in the band profle as can be seen in this example, some movements found their home in more classic case designs. The present watch not only is ofered in absolutely stunning, unpolished and unrestored condition, but furthermore features a very attractive cobalt blue dial with an important double personalization: it features both the Iraqi crest at 9 o’clock, and the signature of former Iraqi dictator Saddam Hussein at 3 o’clock. It is a longstanding tradition for ruler of Middle Eastern countries to ofer bespoken timepieces as a gesture of recognition and appreciation to subjects, diplomats or governmental ofcials; beyond Iraq, other countries known to have ordered watches with bespoken dials are, among others, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Bahrein and Kuwait.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
185.
UNIVERSAL — A rare, very attractive and extremely well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
Circa 1965
Reference No.
885103/01
Case No.
2’411’883
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 72, 17 jewels, stamped HOX
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel JB Champion for Universal bracelet stamped “55” to the endlinks, max length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel JB Champion for Universal
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker,
deployant clasp
clasp further signed by bracelet maker Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000 $15,600-31,100 €14,200-28,400
The series of timepieces bearing reference number 88510x was Universal’s answer to the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, as eminently evident by the striking resemblance between the two watches. The two better known representatives of the model are arguably those bearing reference 885103/01 and /02, perfectly mimicking the color scheme and overall looks of their main competitor the Daytona (case in point: the bezel with black insert and tachymeter scale). This model is a frst generation example, evidenced by the applied Universal logo at 12 o’clock. Later examples instead feature a printed logo.
Very successful at the time of its introduction, the model found its way on more than one notable wrist, the best known of them being that of Nina Rindt, wife of F1 driver Jochen Rindt. More than one picture portray the supermodel at the side of the track wearing a /02 version (with cream dial and black counters: the inverse of /01), timing her husband’s laps. The present specimen is distinguished by its excellent condition. The dial displays luminous accents that have aged with warm patina, giving the watch an unmistakably sporty and vintage appearance. The bezel, with a “dot over 90”, is correct for the period. The curved, sculpted lugs are wide in proportion, and feature perfectly preserved ridges to the middle. Most notably, the light engravings to the outside of the caseback are absolutely unmolested and perfectly legible. A truly captivating and extremely well-preservative alternative to, for example, a Rolex Cosmograph ref. 6241: the competition, apparently, is not over more than half a century afer the introduction of the two models.
186.
BREITLING — An extremely rare, attractive and unusual stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “yachting” dial and bezel
Manufacturer
Breitling
Year
1967
Reference No.
765 CP
Case No.
1’141’245
Model Name
Co-Pilot “Yachting”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 178, 17 jewels, stamped “WOG”
Bracelet/Strap
Leather strap
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Breitling pin buckle
Dimensions
41mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000 $8,300-12,500 €7,600-11,400 Accessories Accompanied by Breitling Extract from the Archives confrming production in April 1967.
This example of ref. 765CP represents an extremely intriguing variation of the “standard” version of the model (see lot 159 in this sale). Reference 765CP was launched in 1965 as an update of the AVI model. It was a response to other steel chronograph with a strong sport vocation introduced to the market in the previous years (such as the 1963 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona or the 1962 Heuer Autavia). Underlining this sports vocation,
around the same time this variation with regatta countdown timer was also introduced, featuring bezel and a 15-minute counter color-coded so that the 15 minutes countdown to the start of the race can be followed on both independently (either by activating the chronograph, or by aligning the beginning of the red sector on the bezel with the minutes hand). The model was in production for a very short time, as in 1967 it was succeeded by a version featuring orange hands, dramatically modifying the aesthetics of the watch. This example from April 1967 thus belong to the very end of the production of this frst execution Yachting chronograph. Interestingly, it come from the very same batch of the aforementioned other 765CP ofered in this sale.
187.
OMEGA — A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale and bracelet made for the Peruvian Air Forces
Manufacturer
Omega
Year
1962
Reference No.
CK 2998-5
Movement No.
18’419’749
Model Name
Speedmaster “FAP”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Omega bracelet, end links stamped 6, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel folding deployant clasp, stamped 2.60
Dimensions
39.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 Ό $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1962 and its subsequent delivery to the Peruvian Air Forces. Literature For a similar example see Moonwatch Only by Grégoire Rossier and Anthony Marquié pp 260-261.
Launched in 1959, the Omega Speedmaster reference 2998 was the successor of the frst model, reference 2915. It is also known for being the frst Speedmaster in space as it was the personal watch of Wally Shirra during the Sigma 7 Mission of the Mercury program in October 1962.
The present watch had, however, a diferent destiny; still airborne but closer to the earth. When looking at the caseback, one will notice the three letters: FAP standing for Fuerza Aérea del Peru. Up to the early 60s, Omega was providing timepieces for the Peruvian pilots before another brand was selected by the army. The extract of the Omega archives confrms that the watch was delivered to the Peruvian Air Forces in June 1962. In production for only 4 years, researches show that eight case references were produced. The present reference 2998-5 diferentiates itself from the previous version by the abolition of the Alpha hands on the subdials but it keeps this type of hands for the hours and minutes with a straight central chronograph hand and black bezel graduated 500. The watch is powered by the frst generation caliber 321, ftted to all Speedmasters until 1968/69. In excellent overall condition and ftted with its original bracelet stamped for the second quarter of 1960, this Speedmaster will be a great addition to any military related watch collection.
188.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — A very attractive pink gold automatic wristwatch with large date and zero reset function
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
308.031
Movement No.
41’811
Case No.
156’295
Model Name
Langematik Sax-O-Mat
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. L. 9214, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Lange pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 6,000-12,000 $6,200-12,500 €5,700-11,400
Launched in 1997 the Sax-O-Mat was Lange’s frst automatic movement. In fact the name of the caliber refers to its Saxon origings (Sax), that it has a zero reset function (O) and that it is automatic (Mat). It was ofered in two versions with or without the brand’s signature large date and the movement featured a playful zero reset mechanism whereby when the crown is pulled the seconds hand immediately returns to zero enabling to the seconds setting of time. To obtain a slimmer movement as well as not to obstruct the view of the beautiful movement, Lange opted for a 3/4 made in 21 k gold with a platinum periphery. In very appealing condition the black dial and pink gold combination give the watch a more famboyant personality.
189.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — A rare and attractive pink gold wristwatch with date and presentation box
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2004
Reference No.
115.031
Movement No.
45’169
Case No.
151’000
Model Name
Grand Lange 1
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L901.2, 53 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold A. Lange & Söhne buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 12,000-24,000 $12,500-24,900 €11,400-22,800 Accessories Accompanied by A. Lange & Söhne presentation box.
Since the launch of A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 in 1994, the model has seen variations to the dial, bezel and bracelet. Presented in excellent condition, this large and attractive Grand Lange 1 most notably features a black and grey dial that recalls the design codes of the famed watchmaker. Bearing a 42mm diameter, it is larger than its predecessors and has immense presence on the wrist. The back of the watch reveals a beautifully decorated caliber L901.2, showcasing A. Lange & Söhne’s watchmaking know-how.
190.
A rare and attractive tonneau-shaped platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2007
Reference No.
5040P
Movement No.
3’129’936
Case No.
4’405’044
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240Q , 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
35mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-45,000 $25,900-46,700 €23,700-42,700 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch with black dial, 7 Arabic numerals, 2 white gold dots and railway minute track in 2007 and its subsequent sale on June 27, 2007.
Launched in 1992, reference 5040 was in production until 2007. The model was available in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, as well as platinum and is distinguished by its tonneau-shaped case. At the time of launch, it was Patek Philippe’s frst serially produced perpetual calendar model that featured a tonneaushaped design. Fresh to the auction market, the present example is cased in platinum, which is most notably denoted by the single diamond set between the lugs. It is preserved in excellent condition with crisp hallmarks beneath the lugs and overall excellent proportions. Furthermore, the black dial is confrmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 5040P
191.
A charming pink gold automatic annual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, moonphases, blue dial, Certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2017
Reference No.
5396R
Movement No.
7’057’958
Case No.
6’194’086
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324, 34 jewels, stamped
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator strap
with the Patek Philippe seal Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
38.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∙ ∑ $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated September 11, 2017, product literature, leather wallet, setting pin, ftted wooden presentation box and outer packaging.
Introduced in 2006, reference 5396 is an annual calendar upgrade of time-only reference 5296. Heavily infuenced by masterpieces from the company’s rich history, the model’s case is inspired by the Calatrava cases of the mid-20th century, defned by simple fowing lines. The dial is instead inspired by a diferent vintage model - reference 3448 - from which it reprises the windows, indexes and moonphases disposition, the main diference being in the subsidiary dial: reference 3448 uses it for the display of the date, while in this instance it features a 24-hour indication, the date reassigned to a third window at 6 o’ clock. The present pink gold with blue dial variation of immense charm was in production for only two years: from 2017 to 2018. This is the very frst example to appear on the public market.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 5396R
192.
A very rare and incredibly well-preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, moonphases and bracelet
A truly landmark model, reference 2497 is the frst serially produced Patek Philippe perpetual calendar wristwatch to feature centre seconds. First introduced in 1951, it is considered one of manufacture’s most beautiful designs ever made, eliciting pure joy and admiration from its beholder. The elegant curved case, produced frst by Vichet and then Wenger, hugs the wrist perfectly. The watch’s overall symmetry is furthermore mesmerizing to the eye, enhanced by its robust presence on the wrist. Reference 2497 is one of Patek Philippe’s rarest serially produced perpetual calendar models. Research shows that a combined 179 examples of reference 2497 and its water resistant sibling 2438/1 were produced during their 12 year production period.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 2497 “Gay Frères Bracelet”
192.
A very rare and incredibly well-preserved yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, moonphases and bracelet
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1954
Reference No.
2497
Movement No.
888’056
Case No.
679’790
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 27SC Q, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Gay Frères expandable bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold expandable clasp stamped 2.52
Dimensions
37mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed, bracelet further signed GF
Estimate CHF 200,000-300,000 $208,000-311,000 €190,000-284,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1954 with raised gold indexes and its subsequent sale on June 7, 1955.
The present watch is an exceedingly attractive specimen. Featuring crisp futing to the lugs and sharp vertical fnishes on the side of the lugs, it also displays two hallmarks which are deep and crisp beneath the lugs. Interestingly, there are London hallmarks on the inside caseback and underneath the lugs, that correspond to 1954. This is ftting and correct, as it corresponds with the year of manufacture of the present timepiece. The dial is preserved in beautiful condition, with hard enamel writing. The accent above the “e” in “Genève” is crisp and visible, and there are no losses to the date outer ring.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 2497 “Gay Frères Bracelet”
193.
A very fne and attractive yellow gold worldtime automatic wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial, Certifcate and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2012
Reference No.
5131J
Movement No.
5’684’616
Case No.
4’557’036
Model Name
Worldtime
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 240, 33 jewels,
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-90,000 ∑ $62,300-93,400 €56,900-85,300 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stamped by Salons Patek Philippe Geneve and dated January 18, 2013, ftted presentation box, leather wallet and product literature. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 2013 and its subsequent sale on January 18, 2013.
World Time watches were invented, as is the case with most innovations, out of necessity. With the advent of the industrial age came global trade and travel and, as a direct result, there was a need for timekeeping devices capable of tracking time in multiple locations. The world time complication, other than
being a utilitarian invention , is also a window into history. With the rise and fall of nations, one capital replaced another as reference city for a specifc time zone. At the beginning of the 1930s, watchmaker Louis Cottier designed a movement featuring a local time with hour and minute hands at center, linked to a rotating 24hour ring, and bordered by a fxed outer dial ring with the names of diferent cities inscribed on it. The city of choice (local time zone) was placed at the 12 o’clock position with the hours/minutes hand set at local time, the watch would then display the correct time in both hours and minutes, night and day, for every time zone in the world simultaneously, all the while allowing easy and accurate reading of local time, and all on a single dial. Patek Philippe was one of the frst brands to embrace this new complication - in fact, an example of the earliest specimens of this complication is lot 64 of this sale. In the ffies, however, models featuring dials with beautifully crafed enamel maps of North and South Americas and Europe were made in restricted numbers (somewhere between 10 and 20 pieces in total). These watches, now among the most coveted timepieces in existence, are the inspiration for the series of modern cloisonné world time pieces. The present lot is characteristic of the frst series of reference 5131J, its city ring featuring Dubai and Caracas as representatives of their respective time zone. Later models will instead feature La Paz and Riyadh.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 5131J Worldtime
194.
A rare and extremely fne yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with round pushers and screw back
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1948
Reference No.
1463
Movement No.
867’410
Case No.
653’471
Model Name
“Tasti Tondi”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels, stamped “HOX”
Bracelet/Strap
Patek Philippe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 100,000-200,000 ∑ $104,000-208,000 €94,800-190,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1948.
Reference 1463, along with the mythical reference 1563, is the only vintage, water resistant chronograph wristwatch that Patek Philippe produced. Manufactured from approximately 1940 to 1969, the reference is playfully dubbed “Tasti Tondi” due to its large waterproof round pushers. When the reference was introduced, it was decidedly more robust than its sibling, reference 130, refecting society’s evolving tastes and needs given the war years and a rising demand for a relatively “sportier” watch. The model has seen a variety of designs to the numerals, dial and hands. The most classic examples were cased in yellow gold, with a handful of watches cased in steel
and pink gold. Like reference 2508 and 2509, the cases were supplied by Taubert, the indisputable specialist in creating waterproof cases for wristwatches and pocketwatches. This particular example is extremely collectible both due to its confguration, historical interest, and condition as well. Among the diferent indexes found on this reference, one can usually see dot applied indexes, lozenge-shaped indexes, or short and wide baton indexes. There are however some other more rare variations such as thin and short baton indexes, and the present highly elusive extra-long thin indexes, immediately recognisable as the tips of the indexes at 1 and 11 o’clock practically touch the Patek Philippe signature. An other similar example, albeit in pink gold, was sold by Phillips in Geneva in November 2017. It is interest to point out how that example as well was made in 1948. The year 1948 adds historical relevance to the piece, as it is around this time that Patek Philippe introduces the short signature (without “& Co”) to their dials. This is then one of the very frst dial to bear the signature which is still in use today. Finally, the condition of the piece are extremely honest and attractive: the dial is in superb condition, fully unrestored, and featuring and extremely subtle and equally charming of-white patina. The case is full, retaining strong proportions and defnition. Given the interest of the market in sport’s chronograph and the fact that this is practically the only vintage Patek Philippe sport’s chronograph model, and this example is furthermore in excellent condition and featuring a rare confguration, one can see how this piece would be a keystone acquisition for any important Patek Philippe collection.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
195.
A rare, large and charismatic pink gold wristwatch with pink dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1942
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
922’951
Case No.
297’934
Model Name
Calatrava, “Calatravone”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Vintage Patek Philippe alligator strap
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∑ $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1942 with silvered rose dial and its subsequent sale on March 15, 1943. Furthermore accompanied by Patek Philippe presentation box.
Reference 570, nicknamed “Calatravone” (Italian for large Calatrava), has been a favorite amongst collectors thanks to its large case, fat bezel and vivid modernist design. Introduced in 1938, the iconic reference 570, which is a larger version of Patek Philippe’s reference 96, was manufactured with both subsidiary and center seconds confgurations in stainless steel, yellow, white and pink gold, and platinum cases. The present example from the frst series houses the caliber 12’’’120, whilst the second series used the caliber 12’’’400, and the last series used an antimagnetic movement - the caliber 27 AM 400. The present lot is a very charismatic example. The pink dial is very charming, and has aged with warm patina. The hard enamel graphics remain raised and present. Furthermore, it is described by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives as being “silvered rose” . This watch even retains its vintage Patek Philippe strap, and presentation box.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 570 “Pink on Pink”
196.
A very fne platinum dual time wristwatch with date, double day/night indication and power reserve indication
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2005
Reference No.
116.031
Movement No.
50’770
Case No.
160’939
Model Name
Lange 1 Zeitzone
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. L031.1, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Lange pin buckle
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by Lange ftted box and outer packaging.
In just 25 years the Lange 1 has become one of the most iconic designs of modern watchmaking. It was one of the four pieces originally released in 1994, when A. Lange & Söhne was re-launched, and it features all the traits which are now eponymous with A. Lange & Söhne: above all, the large doublewindow date indication and the asymmetrical dial disposition.
The present iteration of the Lange 1 features one of the most useful complications available: a second time zone. The most common way of indicating a second time zone is a second central hand, such as seen on the Rolex GMT or the modern Patek Philippe Pilot reference 5524. A. Lange & Söhne, however approached the second time zone in a completely diferent way, dedicating an entire subsidiary dial - the one at 4 o’ clock - to the local time, and also adding a city ring to the outer rim of the dial. The small arrow in the local time dial points at the city the local time is currently set on. This solution allows for an outstanding aesthetic impact of the piece, which acquires somewhat of a “world time” vibe, and it is enormously practical. When analyzing the Zeitzone, it is actually apparent how Lange placed practicality above all else, and how the aesthetics of the piece are a consequence of this choice: form truly follows function, rather than the other way around, both under a visual point of view and also under an operational one. Visually, beyond the already mentioned city ring, the watch features day/night indications for both local and home time, avoiding the very common issue of confusing night and day times at the home location. Operationally, the piece features a quick-setting pusher at 10 o’clock, and a second pusher at 8 o’clock. This second button allows for quick-setting of the date, extremely useful in case the date at the destination does not match the one at the departing location.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
Lange 1 Zeitzone
197.
A very attractive pink gold fyback chronograph wristwatch with large date
Manufacturer
A. Lange & Söhne
Year
Circa 2004
Reference No.
403.035
Movement No.
44’398
Case No.
157’549
Model Name
Datograph “Philippe Dufour”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. L951.1, 40 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Lange pin buckle
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000 $20,800-41,500 €19,000-37,900 Accessories Accompanied by Lange ftted box and outer packaging.
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph was launched in 1999. It was the brand’s frst modern chronograph movement and in a few short years it reached cult status. As much so that Philippe Dufour, one of horology’s greatest living watchmakers, wears an example in pink gold and black dial like the present example. The L951.1 hand wound caliber featured not only a fyback function but a novel instantaneous minutes hand. In regular chronographs as the seconds hand advances so does the minutes counter hand, with the Datograph afer 60 seconds have elapsed, the minute counter jumps forward exactly one graduation. Turning the watch over, one can glimpse the superbly conceived movement in all its architectural glory, including the freehand engraved balance cock and delicate “Glashütte” waves throughout.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
Datograph “Philippe Dufour”
198.
A rare and attractive pink gold travel time wristwatch with center seconds, certifcate of origin, setting pin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2019
Reference No.
7234R
Movement No.
7’222’785
Case No.
6’305’922
Model Name
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 324 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 ∙ $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated February 15, 2019, leather wallet, setting pin, product literature, ftted presentation box.
Appearing on the auction market for the very frst time, reference 7234 is an interpretation of the iconic Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in a more restrained size. Launched in 2018, the model is cased in pink gold, and displays a beautiful brown dial. Like its masculine sibling reference 5524, the dial displays local and home time, along with a day and night indicator. At the time of launch, it was the very frst automatic Travel Time model that Patek Philippe created for women. Compared to reference 5524, reference 7234 is slightly more compact and is ft for a lady’s wrist with a diameter of 37.5 millimeters. Ofered in excellent and unpolished condition, it is complete with its Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated February 15, 2019, leather wallet, setting pin, product literature, ftted presentation box. The present lot is furthermore ofered without reserve.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 7234R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
199.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Appearing on the auction market for the very frst time, this timepiece wonderfully exemplifes the characteristics of the iconic reference 1518. Preserved in excellent and remarkable condition, it is an early frst series example. Most notably, this dial is stamped with a long signature displaying “Patek, Philippe & Co”. The dial is preserved in impressive condition as it has gracefully aged over time. Reference 1518 dials are notorious for tarnishing heavily due to the model’s snap-on bezel and caseback, which allowed moisture to seep through. However, this particular dial has aged to a warm ivory tone and has incredible charisma. The enamel signature remains thick and defned, with the accent above the “e” in “Genève” strong and present, as is the comma between “Patek” and “Philippe”. The hard enamel graphics on the dial remain preserved and raised wonderfully. Boasting two hallmarks, the case retains its original proportions. While one hallmark is stamped under the lug, another is still visible on the side of the case. It even retains its vintage Patek Philippe buckle stamped “PPCo”.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 1518
199.
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1944
Reference No.
1518
Movement No.
863’522
Case No.
637’178
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13-130 Q, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Alligator
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle stamped PPCo
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 200,000-400,000 ∑ $208,000-415,000 €190,000-379,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1944 with silvered dial, raised gold hour markers and tachometer scale and its subsequent sale on July 28, 1945. Furthermore accompanied by presentation box.
A historically important model, reference 1518 was the frst perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced in series when it was introduced in 1941. According to research, only 281 examples were manufactured until the reference ceased production in 1954. It paved the way for successors references 2499, 3970, 5970 and fnally, 5270, which features an in-house movement.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 1518
200.
A highly rare and attractive pink gold chronograph with “bean” shaped lugs and pink dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1943
Reference No.
591
Movement No.
863’150
Case No.
632’636
Model Name
“Fagiolino”
Material
18K pink gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $41,500-83,000 €37,900-75,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1943 with rose dial and raised gold hour-makers and its subsequent sale on November 30, 1943.
Patek Philippe frst launched reference 591 in 1938. At the time of production, the model was entirely diferent from anything that the manufacture had ever produced. The case, produced by Wenger, featured “bean” shaped lugs, lovingly dubbed “Fagiolino”, or “little bean”. The angular, and relatively sharp lines starkly contrasted with the smooth Calatrava design of reference 130 and 533. Reference 591 was also larger than its chronograph siblings, boasting a 34 millimeter case diameter, giving the watch a modern aesthetic today. Fresh to the auction market, this particular example displays a beautiful pink dial that is preserved in wonderful condition, with crisp and sharp hallmarks on the edge of the lugs. The dial displays attractive patina and furthermore retains its long signature, with a strong comma between “Patek” and “Philippe”. It retains its original crown, and one can admire how remarkably well-preserved the lugs are. It is particularly easy to spot polishing on this reference, as the lugs and bezel easily lose their defnition. The hallmarks are particularly well defned on the lugs. It is furthermore one of 14 known reference 591s cased in pink gold with a pink dial, of which 5 display the current dial confguration.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 591 “Fagiolino Pink on Pink”
201.
A large, attractive and well preserved stainless steel wristwatch with silver dial
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1949
Reference No.
570
Movement No.
965’109
Case No.
637’729
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120PS, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000 $31,100-62,300 €28,400-56,900 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1949 and its subsequent sale on May 16, 1950. Literature Similar reference 570s in stainless steel are featured in Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger pp. 100-113.
Patek Philippe’s reference 570 is a potent mix of sophistication and simplicity. A rather large watch, it has been nicknamed “Calatravone” (Italian for large Calatrava), its timeless design with large fat bezel and thick lugs made it a staple within the Patek Phillipe catalogue from 1938 till its discontinuation in 1972. The reference 570 was cased predominantly in yellow gold and rarely in pink gold, white gold, stainless steel and platinum. The reference featured a multitude of dial variations. While some were ftted with Breguet numerals, others were two-tone in design. The present example from the frst series houses the caliber 12’’’120, whilst the second series used the caliber 12’’’400 and the last series used calibers 12SC or 27SC. The present example, fresh to the market, is one of only 39 known models (regardless of caliber or dial confguration) housed in stainless steel and is most certainly one of the most charismatic and best preserved examples of a stainless steel reference 570 we have seen. The case exhibits full, thick lugs and incredible proportions. The fat, cylindrical bezel retains sharp defnition and the contrasting brushed and satin fnishes are still present and strong. The dial itself is preserved in beautiful condition, with barely any signs of aging. Furthermore, the hard enamel graphics remain raised and crisp, attesting to the originality of the timepiece. A superb watch in every sense, the present reference 570 is a tribute to taste, elegance and refnement.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 570 Calatrava
202.
A fne and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, power reserve and bracelet, accompanied with certifcate of origin and presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
Circa 2003
Reference No.
3710
Movement No.
3’231’382
Case No.
4’175’458
Model Name
Nautilus “Comet”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 330 SC, 29 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel concealed deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,900-51,900 €23,700-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe ftted box, Certifcate of Origin, hang tag, leather wallet and product literature.
The frst Nautilus model, designed by Gerald Genta, was inspired by the maritime and in particular Captain Nemo’s submarine “Nautilus” in Jules Verne’s adventure story Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The 42mm diameter case was consider a “Jumbo” size for the time and it embodied the new avant-garde design infuences of the early 1970s, a period of cultural change and relaxing societal norms with less formal afairs and a more laid back attitude: an ideal environment for the laid back elegance of the Nautilus. The historical importance of the reference 3710 cannot be underlined enough as it is a direct bridge between the references 3700 and 5712. Launched in 1998 and in production until 2004/2005, it retained the smooth dial with Roman numerals as found in the reference 3800, yet it signed the return of the “Jumbo” sized 42mm case size of the reference 3700. However, and most importantly, the reference 3710 was the very frst Nautilus to feature a complication (other than date): a very unusual power reserve / state of wind indicator nicknamed by collectors “comet”. The said “comet” being placed on a rotating disc and once the movement fully wound the disc would continue rotating, indicating that the winding mechanism was disconnected from the main barrel. Ofered in overall very pleasing condition the reference 3710 is a more unusual member of the Nautilus family and consequently a must have.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 3710/1A Nautilus “Comet”
203.
An extremely rare yellow gold tonneau shaped wristwatch with presentation box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1912
Movement No.
175’558
Case No.
292’685
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12’’, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
41.5mm Length, 30mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed, dial further signed Chronometro Gondolo
Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000 $25,900-51,900 €23,700-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the movement of this watch in 1912 and its subsequent sale on December 22, 1927, an original Patek Philippe box and an additional crystal.
Gondolo & Labouriau was Patek Philippe’s sole authorized retailer in Rio de Janeiro until the 1930s. Having put in place an ingenious system to increase the sales and bypass the ban on gambling, the jeweler greatly increased Patek Philippe’s awareness in the Brazilian market. Today, Patek Philippe’s Chronometro Gondolo wristwatches are some of the most coveted by collectors in virtue of their rarity, size and historical background. Production of these wristwatches started in 1910 with specifc requests from the retailer concerning the movement. Gondolo & Labouriau requested the movement to feature a cam wheel regulator, allowing for precise and practical adjustments to the watch, a moustache-shaped lever, wolf’s tooth winding gears, and gold wheels for the wheel train. These high grade movements would then be housed in a large variety of sizes and case shapes. Designed with a hinged tonneau shaped case, this watch was extremely large for the era. According to Patek Philippe archives, we know that the movement of the present watch was made in 1912, but that the timepiece was only sold on December 22nd, 1927. Preserved in remarkable condition for a watch of this age, this timepiece may well become the trophy of the watch collection it will join.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E Chronometro Gondolo
204.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An extremely elegant white gold pocket watch with elongated 12 made for SA Lamine 1er
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1956
Reference No.
5612BC
Movement No.
63’246
Case No.
5749
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 17”, 17 jewels
Dimensions
46.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case and movement signed. Dial further signed SA Lamine 1er
Estimate CHF 5,000-10,000 ∙ $5,200-10,400 €4,700-9,500 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certifcate of Authenticity confrming the sale of the present watch in 1956 with personalised logo of s.a. Lamine 1er (His Highness Lamine 1).
Muhammad VIII al-Amin known as Lamine Bey was the last Bey of Tunis and also the only King of Tunisia. He was enthroned in unusual circumstances following the removal of his predecessor by the French Resident General in 1943. It was not until the latter’s death in 1948 that his legitimacy was recognized by the people of Tunisia. Made for a king, the present pocket watch displays an extremely elegant and sober dial design. The opaline dial is simply adorned by elongated painted indexes with an impressively long 12 just above the name of the sovereign. The last element of the dial is the Swiss designation at 6 o’clock. Fitted in a slightly Art Deco type white gold case is an ultra-thin Audemars Piguet manual caliber. Altogether, this watch can be considered a hymn to simplicity and good taste. Delivered to the king in 1956, a few months before he had to leave his palace, the watch remains in virtually untouched condition. In addition to its intrinsic value, this watch represents a very important testimony of Tunisia’s history.
THIS LOT IS OFFERED WITHOUT RESERVE
205.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A highly rare and attractive platinum minute repeating wristwatch with Breguet numerals
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1996
Reference No.
25760PT
Movement No.
412’815
Case No.
D48’883 and 14
Model Name
Repetition Minutes
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 2866, 34 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Platinum Audemars Piguet buckle
Dimensions
33.5mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,600-25,900 €14,200-23,700 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confrming production on January 18, 1996.
In 1907, Audemars Piguet created a unique minute repeating wristwatch for the famed American industrialist John Shaefer, Vice President of the Allied Chemical Corporation, located in Morristown, New Jersey. This timepiece later inspired Audemars Piguet’s “John Shaefer” series that was launched in the 1990s. The present watch is a 1990s re-interpretation of the nowiconic wristwatch. Displaying Breguet numerals and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, this minute repeating model chimes with great tone and clarity. Cased in platinum, it is furthermore heavy and substantial on the wrist while being subtle and sophisticated.
206.
A very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date, tachymeter scale, caramel “tropical” tapisserie dial and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
2000
Reference No.
25721ST
Movement No.
494’491
Case No.
E39400 and 2129
Model Name
Royal Oak Ofshore “The Beast”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2126/2840, 54 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confrming production of the watch on July 12, 2000.
In the early 1990s, Audemars Piguet tasked its in-house designer Emmanuel Gueit to reinvent the classic Royal Oak model and infuse it with new life and power. For years, Gueit and his team worked on a prototype and subsequently presented the fnal product, reference 25721ST, in 1993 at Basel. The result was astonishing and something completely diferent from what the public had ever seen before. It was shortly nicknamed “The Beast” due to what was, at the time, its astonishing 42mm case size. The launch of reference 25721ST marked the beginning of the Ofshore lineage. In fact, it arguably established the trend for large-sized watches, which is today is the complete norm. An “E series” version, the present watch features a beautiful dial that has turned a pleasing light caramel tone over the years. This “tropical” efect is completely astonishing. There is no telling how a watch will turn in tone over time, and this particular example has aged in a stunning manner. The present watch is furthermore preserved in excellent condition with crisp bevels and satin fnishes throughout.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T
Ref. 25721ST Royal Oak Ofshore “Te Beast with Tropical Dial”
207.
A rare and massive white gold automatic wristwatch with diamond-set indexes and bracelet
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1978
Reference No.
5402BC
Movement No.
174’458
Case No.
B22949, 32
Model Name
Royal Oak “Jumbo”
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121/1, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K white gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 50,000-100,000 $51,900-104,000 €47,400-94,800 Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confrming production of this watch in 1978 and its subsequent sale in Germany.
Introduced in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is, without a doubt, one of the landmark wristwatch designs of the 20th century. Created during the depths of the quartz crisis, the most expensive steel watch ever ofered to the public was believed by many to bankrupt the company. Over the past four decades, the Royal Oak has instead fueled the brand’s success to the extent of becoming the key product line of Audemars Piguet. The present Royal Oak in 18-karat white gold is amongst the rarest variants of the original reference 5402 – the afectionately named “Jumbo”. Produced in very small quantities, this specimen is the 32nd example of only 149 believed to have been manufactured by the frm in white gold. Crafed out of solid 18-karat gold, its luxurious hef is dramatic, especially when compared to the regular production stainless steel versions. Measuring 39mm in diameter, its iconic octagonal bezel is secured with mirror-polished white gold hexagonal screws that provide attractive, eye-catching contrast to the brushed polished bezel. The surface of the black dial features a guilloché mini-“tapisserie” pattern – a texture resembling small square cobblestones which is found on all early Royal Oak dials. It is adorned with tasteful diamond hour markers whose unobtrusive presence manages to light up the dial without it feeling cumbersome. Presented in superb overall condition, the present lot is a rare opportunity for collectors of luxury sports watches.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T Ref. 5402BC Royal Oak “White Gold Jumbo”
208.
A fne and iconic stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet and box
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1977
Reference No.
3700
Movement No.
1’306’058
Case No.
532’691
Model Name
Nautilus, Jumbo
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 28-255 C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
Dimensions
42mm Width
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Estimate CHF 60,000-120,000 $62,300-125,000 €56,900-114,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1977 with “black matte ribbed dial, applied white gold indexes, tritium” and its subsequent sale on October 13, 1978.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus, now one of the best recognized wristwatches in the world, can be considered as instrumental - together with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak - in paving the way to luxury steel watches. Advertisements from the launch era boast the fact that one of the most expensive watches in the world was made of steel - an enormously brave marketing move
which at the time was actually not sure to pay of. In fact many observers deemed such luxury sport watches doomed to fail. In this frst model, all the defning features of the design are already present in pretty much the same form as we see them on contemporary pieces, indicating how strikingly genius the aesthetics of the watches proved to be since their very frst inception. They require no great modifcation even more than forty years afer the original inception, a truly remarkable feature for an object of design which should -in theory - be subject to changing fashion trends. Giving life to this watch is the caliber 28-255, based on the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC 920, heavily modifed by Patek Philippe. At the time it was the world’s thinnest automatic movement with date, measuring only 3.05mm thick, interestingly it was a movement shared with the steel icon: the Royal Oak. Patek Philippe produced two versions of the Nautilus ref 3700 in steel: 3700/1 - such as the present watch - from 1976 to about 1981 featuring a straight bracelet and reference 3700/11, in production from 1981 to 1990, with a tapered steel bracelet. The present example features remarkable case defnition. Furthermore, its dial is in absolutely fawless condition as it was changed, most probably during a service at Patek Philippe. Obviously, the intervention was made quite some time ago as the luminous material has had time to darken slightly with age, fully matching the vintage nature of the wristwatch,
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
Ref. 3700 Nautilus “Jumbo”
209.
A highly rare stainless steel wristwatch with bracelet, copper “tropical” dial without serial number on caseback
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
1975
Reference No.
5402
Movement No.
147’354
Case No.
99’108
Model Name
Royal Oak
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Estimate CHF 40,000-80,000 $41,500-83,000 €37,900-75,900 Accessories Accompanied by original ftted box, open papers, a letter from Audemars Piguet Germany dated May 21, 1979 confrming the watch was made without serial numbers on the caseback and Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present reference 5402 in 1975 without serial numbers.
We would tend to think that everything about Audemars Piguet’s groundbreaking and iconic reference 5402 is already known. Yet we can still delightfully stumble on a piece, like the present model, which adds scholarship to one of horology’s most documented models. When Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak in 1972, it caused an immediate sensation as the
watch industry had never seen anything comparable before and marked the beginning of the luxury sports watch market as we know it today. The models bore a serial number on the back preceded with a letter corresponding to a “batch number” the frst 2000 had the letter A, then B followed by C and fnally D. The present example from 1975 has the particularity of not having a letter nor a serial number on the caseback. It is believed that these models, in all aspects identical to the A series, dating circa 1975, are transitional models between the A and B series. According to Audemars Piguet archives less than 100 of these versions are thought to have been made, with only a handful having appeared on the international auction market. In overall very appealing condition the dial of the present example is showing copper refections giving it a superbly charismatic appearance. The present watch is ofered with original ftted box, open papers, a letter from Audemars Piguet Germany dated May 21, 1979 confrming the watch was made without serial numbers on the caseback and Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present reference 5402 in 1975 without serial numbers. Today, the Royal Oak remains as iconic as ever, with both modern and vintage examples being exceedingly popular and collectible. The present ultra-rare example without serial numbers is a grail that cannot be missed.
AU D E M A R S P I G U E T
Ref. 5402 Royal Oak “No Series Jumbo”
210.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly rare stainless steel limited edition wristwatch, made to commemorate the re-opening of the Patek Philippe boutique in Geneva in 2006
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
2006
Reference No.
5565
Movement No.
1’901’727
Case No.
4’381’741
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 215 PS, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000 $20,800-31,100 €19,000-28,400 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Attestation dated December 30, 2006, commemorative medal, product literature leather wallet and presentation box.
Made to commemorate the re-opening of the Patek Philippe boutique in Geneva in 2006, reference 5565 is most notably cased in stainless steel. It furthermore displays a special engraving on the caseback “Patek Philippe Geneve 1839-19822006”, marking three important dates within the history of Patek Philippe.
Inspired by the reference 565, it recalls the iconic vintage waterresistant model while appearing incredibly modern with its stainless steel case and luminous hands. Fitted with the caliber 215 PS, it perfectly exemplifes the know-how and fnesse the Genevan brand is best-known for. The reference was made in 300 pieces, and was launched alongside reference 5105, which was ftted with a vintage cal. 9’’’90 movement. Both models were only exclusively available through the Geneva salon, and are particularly collectible among Patek Philippe enthusiasts today. The present watch is preserved in excellent condition and is accompanied by its Patek Philippe Attestation dated December 30, 2006, commemorative medal, product literature leather wallet and presentation box.
211.
ULYSSE NARDIN — A very attractive and large stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with sector pulsations dial
Manufacturer
Ulysse Nardin
Year
Circa 1942
Movement No.
121’393
Case No.
607’803
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 23, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 10,000-15,000 $10,400-15,600 €9,500-14,200
Chronograph: check Large steel case with fat bezel: check Sector dial: check Excellent condition: check The present Ulysse Nardin chronograph is an incredibly attractive example from the widely acclaimed Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1846. The large 38mm case with fat bezel presents the perfect frame for the graphic sector dial which also has a rare pulsometer scale. It is furthermore powered by a manual-winding “Valjoux 23” featuring a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, with a small seconds register placed opposite to balance out the dial. Preserved in very attractive condition with strong defnition to the case and lugs and a crisp dial the present Ulysse Nardin would be a great addition to the collection of both the budding and the seasoned collector.
212.
An extremely attractive and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black glossy sector dial
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
1939
Case No.
4169 caseback further stamped 53296
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’’, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions
32.5mm
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000 Ό $31,100-51,900 €28,400-47,400 Accessories Accompanied by Breguet Certifcate confrming the sale of the present watch on December 25, 1939 to Monsieur Beltrami for the amount of 3,200 French Francs.
It is incredible how Breguet timepieces from the ones created directly by the great Abraham-Louis to vintage pieces from the frst half of the 20th century share the same aura of elegance and sophistication. Whereas the larger collector community is more aware of the iconic Type XX military chronograph launched in the 1950s (and still in production today) Breguet’s earliest chronograph wristwatches can be traced back to the early 1930s and are extremely sought afer amongst collectors. The present example is from 1939, and showcases Breguet’s incomparable design acumen with well- preserved stainless steel case with olive chronograph pushers, rare black (as confrmed by the Breguet Extract) glossy sector dial and delightful powder pink print. The watch was most probably a wonderful Christmas present as it was delivered on Dec 25, 1939 to Monsieur Beltrami for the amount of 3,200 French Francs. An example preserved in very attractive condition with a cavalcade of details that tick all the boxes for the discerning collector the present Breguet Chronograph presents a rare opportunity for amateurs of vintage chronographs.
213. NO LOT
BREGUET
No. 4169 “Black Sector Dial”
214.
An exceedingly rare and well-preserved platinum chronograph wristwatch with blue hard enamel graphics and spider lugs
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
One of Tree Known Platinum Ref. 1579 “Anse a Ragno”
214.
An exceedingly rare and well-preserved platinum chronograph wristwatch with blue hard enamel graphics and spider lugs
Rare is a word that doesn’t even start to describe this incredibly attractive and well preserved reference 1579 cased in the noblest of metals: platinum. In fact, no other vintage Patek Philippe chronograph in platinum is known other than 3 reference 1579 which highlights the sheer importance of the present watch. It is unknown why Patek Philippe decided to use platinum for this reference and only for three watches but it is interesting to note that the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and diferent dials, making each piece unique. - case no. 645’564 features a black tachymeter scale calibrated in miles - case no. 645’565 features a black tachymeter scale calibrated in KM - case no. 645’566, the present watch, featuring a scale and seconds markers in blue Platinum is certainly noble and rare but the prohibitive cost of platinum can explain the fact that the watch remained unsold for close to two years following its completion.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
One of Tree Known Platinum Ref. 1579 “Anse a Ragno”
214.
An exceedingly rare and well-preserved platinum chronograph wristwatch with blue hard enamel graphics and spider lugs
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1946
Reference No.
1579
Movement No.
867’005
Case No.
645’566
Model Name
“Spider Lugs”, “Anse a Ragno”
Material
Platinum
Calibre
Manual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Estimate CHF 800,000-1,600,000 $830,000-1,660,000 €759,000-1,520,000 Accessories Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of the present watch in 1946 and its subsequent sale on September 28th, 1948.
Introduced in 1943, Patek Philippe reference 1579 defnitely exults a seductive allure that remains till today sophisticated with an elegant appeal. Due to its fanciful lugs in the shape of briolette diamonds, the reference is ofen referred to as the “Spider Lugs” chronograph. This unusual feature propels this watch to one of the most impressive case designs of the 1950s. Due to the shape of the lugs, this model responds particularly badly to polishing, as even the lightest intervention dulls its sharp angles. The dial is also preserved in excellent condition with perfectly preserved hard enamel script and scales in blue giving the watch an incredible vivid modernist appeal. The present example, in utterly spectacular condition thus presents the only possibility to acquire one of the rarest models ever made by the famed Geneva brand.
PAT E K P H I L I P P E
One of Tree Known Platinum Ref. 1579 “Anse a Ragno”
Index Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
189
A. Lange & Söhne
115.031
Grand Lange 1
158
Omega
105.012-66
Speedmaster
196
A. Lange & Söhne
116.031
Lange 1 Zeitzone
161
Omega
ST 145.012-67 SP
Speedmaster “Ultraman”
8
A. Lange & Söhne
119.032
Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi
183
Omega
165014-64
Seamaster 300
188
A. Lange & Söhne
308.031
Langematik Sax O Mat
112
Omega
39905006
De Ville Co-Axial
197
A. Lange & Söhne
403.035
Datograph “Philippe Dufour”
203
Patek Philippe
209
Audemars Piguet
5402
Royal Oak
64
Patek Philippe
96HU
Worldtime
207
Audemars Piguet
5402BC
Royal Oak “Jumbo”
156
Patek Philippe
130
204
Audemars Piguet
5612BC
63
Patek Philippe
530
115
Audemars Piguet
15202
Royal Oak
148
Patek Philippe
570
Calatrava
12
Audemars Piguet
15500ST
Royal Oak
195
Patek Philippe
570
Calatrava
206
Audemars Piguet
25721ST
Royal Oak Ofshore “The Beast”
201
Patek Philippe
570
Calatrava
205
Audemars Piguet
25760PT
Repetition Minutes
200
Patek Philippe
591
“Fagiolino”
11
Audemars Piguet
26170ST
Royal Oak Ofshore “Safari”
62
Patek Philippe
605HU
Worldtime
7
Audemars Piguet
26606ST
Royal Oak Perpetual
198
Patek Philippe
7234R
Pilot Travel Time
23
Blancpain
Fify Fathoms, Aqualung
41
Patek Philippe
1463
“Tasti Tondi”
212
Breguet
194
Patek Philippe
1463
“Tasti Tondi”
159
Breitling
765 CP
Co-Pilot
34
Patek Philippe
1509
186
Breitling
765 CP
Co-Pilot “Yachting”
38
Patek Philippe
1518
146
Cartier
“Jumbo Gondole”
199
Patek Philippe
1518
150
Cartier
Tank Cintrée
152
Patek Philippe
1579
“Anse a Ragno”
18
Cartier
2488
Tank Asymétrique
214
Patek Philippe
1579
“Anse a Ragno”
17
Cartier
2685G
Tank Chinoise
153
Patek Philippe
2428
147
Cartier
A113’699
“Tonneau”
59
Patek Philippe
2494
149
Cartier
W1507451
Baignoire Allongée
192
Patek Philippe
2497
19
Cartier
W30012
“Pasha”
155
Patek Philippe
2499
139
De Bethune
DB27ZS8
Titan Hawk
40
Patek Philippe
2508
55
Eberhard & Co.
151
Patek Philippe
2526
48
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre Bleu
35
Patek Philippe
3417
Amagnetic
49
F.P. Journe
Chronomètre à Resonance “Souscription”
37
Patek Philippe
3448
“‘Padellone”
98
F.P. Journe
Octa Automatique Réserve Sport Indy 500
90
Patek Philippe
3448
“‘Padellone”
101
F.P. Journe
Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”
154
Patek Philippe
3450
“‘Padellone”
47
Habring²
Erwin Tribute to WWW
208
Patek Philippe
3700
Nautilus, Jumbo Steel
142
Harry Winston
520/MMVPH
Opus 3
13A
Patek Philippe
3700
Nautilus, Jumbo Yellow gold
57
IWC
325
Portugueser
16
Patek Philippe
3700/004
Nautilus, Jumbo Yellow gold and diamonds
58
IWC
347
14
Patek Philippe
3700/1
Nautilus, Jumbo White gold
117
IWC
IWIW371215
Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante
202
Patek Philippe
3710
Nautilus “Comet”
“Boutique Milano”
85
Patek Philippe
3712
Nautilus
103
Patek Philippe
3800/1
Nautilus
VOGUE “Etrier”
107
Patek Philippe
3800/108
Nautilus
Galet Traveller
104
Patek Philippe
3800/123
Nautilus
Calatrava étanche
144
Jaeger-LeCoultre
145
Jaeger-LeCoultre
99
Laurent Ferrier
24
Longines
5699
“Doppia Lancetta”
123
Patek Philippe
3970P
94
Longines
5824
Chronostop
190
Patek Philippe
5040P
50
Ludovic Ballouard
Upside Down “Souscription”
86
Patek Philippe
5059R
140
MB&F
Legacy Machine Split Escapement
121
Patek Philippe
5060J
Aquanaut
52
MB&F
50.6803/104
Balthazar
118
Patek Philippe
5065
Aquanaut
96
MB&F
76.6000/114
Arachnophobia Black
119
Patek Philippe
5065
Aquanaut
92
Movado
4820
“Calendograph”
120
Patek Philippe
5066
Aquanaut
91
Movado
R9026
87
Patek Philippe
5070R
72
Omega
193
Patek Philippe
5131J
56
Omega
CK2039
113
Patek Philippe
5146G
22
Omega
CK2077
89
Patek Philippe
5159J
53
Omega
CK2186
191
Patek Philippe
5396R
93
Omega
2998-1
Speedmaster
9
Patek Philippe
5496P
187
Omega
CK 2998-5
Speedmaster “FAP”
210
Patek Philippe
5565
1670.21
Worldtime
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
36
Patek Philippe
88
Patek Philippe
122
Model Name
Lot
Manufacturer
Reference Number
Model Name
5940G
69
Rolex
6565
5960P
77
Rolex
6609
Datejust Turn-O-Graph “Thunderbird”
Patek Philippe
5960P
83
Rolex
6612B
Day-Date
15
Patek Philippe
5976/1G
Nautilus 40th Anniversary
4
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona
6
Patek Philippe
5980/1A
Nautilus
29
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona
13
Patek Philippe
5980/1R
Nautilus, “The Boss”
162
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”
97
Ressence
1001/1101
Type 1001 Series One
181
Rolex
16520
Cosmograph Daytona
28
Rolex
1016
Explorer
111
Rolex
16610LV
Submariner “Flat Four Kermit”
138
Rolex
1019
Milgauss
170
Rolex
16660
Sea-Dweller
178
Rolex
1019
Milgauss
116
Rolex
16700
GMT-Master
42
Rolex
1601
Datejust
102
Rolex
16753
GMT-Master
74
Rolex
1601
Datejust “Gary Powers”
43
Rolex
18038
Datejust
84
Rolex
1601
Datejust
82
Rolex
18038
Day-Date “Stella”
128
Rolex
1601
Datejust
127
Rolex
18038
Day-Date “Stella”
27
Rolex
1655
Explorer II, “Freccione”
165
Rolex
18038
Day-Date “Stella”
172
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller “Patent Pending”
44
Rolex
18039
Day-Date “Stella”
131
Rolex
1665
Sea-Dweller
81
Rolex
18039
Day-Date
160
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
166
Rolex
18039B
Day-Date “Tridor”
67
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master
126
Rolex
18239
Day-Date “Rubelite”
177
Rolex
1675
GMT-Master “Mk 1”
169
Rolex
18346
Day-Date
171
Rolex
1680
Submariner “Red Sub”
167
Rolex
19028
OysterQuartz Day-Date
31
Rolex
1680
Red Submariner “FAP”
110
Rolex
116508
Cosmograph Daytona
125
Rolex
1802
Day-Date
114
Rolex
116508
Cosmograph Daytona
129
Rolex
1802
Day-Date
3
Rolex
116518LN
Cosmograph Daytona
46
Rolex
1803
Day-Date “Manhattan Sunset”
105
Rolex
116519
Cosmograph Daytona “Beach”
168
Rolex
1803
Day-Date “Stella”
180
Rolex
116520
“Cosmograph Daytona APH”
45
Rolex
1804
Day-Date
5
Rolex
116529
Cosmograph Daytona
109
Rolex
1804
Day-Date “Octopussy”
106
Rolex
116589
Cosmograph Daytona
71
Rolex
2508
1
Rolex
116618LN
Submariner
65
Rolex
3372
“Bubble back”
76
Rolex
116710LN
GMT-Master II “Sea King”
70
Rolex
3900
Oyster Chronometre Scientifc
108
Rolex
116759SARU
GMT-Master II SARU
73
Rolex
5512
Submariner
2
Rolex
126710BLNR
GMT-Master II “Batman”
68
Rolex
5513
Submariner
75
Rolex
126710BLRO
GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
133
Rolex
5513
“Explorer Submariner”
100
Singer Reimagined
157
Rolex
6062
Oyster Perpetual “Stelline”
51
Thomas Prescher
60
Rolex
6090
“Bombé”
95
Tornek-Rayville
32
Rolex
6200
Submariner “Big Crown”
66
Tudor
79
Rolex
6232
211
Ulysse Nardin
134
Rolex
6234
Oyster Chronograph
182
Universal
22477
Aero-Compax
136
Rolex
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
184
Universal
867’101
White Shadow
175
Rolex
6238
“Pre-Daytona”
185
Universal
885103/01
164
Rolex
6239
Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
10
Vacheron Constantin
30010/000P
78
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona,
39
Vacheron Constantin
6111
“Paul Newman John Player Special”
33
Vacheron Constantin
6126
Track 1 Launch Edition Prototype Tempus Vivendi - Dragon TR-900
Tornek-Rayville U.S. Shock Resisting
Chronometer Royal
135
Rolex
6241
Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman
143
Vianney Halter
Anniversary
30
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona “FAP”
141
Voutilainen
Vingt-8 Triton et Sirène
163
Rolex
6263
Cosmograph Daytona “Sigma Dial”
26
Zenith
132
Rolex
6265
Daytona “Big Red”
21
Zenith
A3817
174
Rolex
6265
Oyster Cosmograph
25
Zenith
AH271
176
Rolex
6265
Cosmograph
20
Zenith
SP 1301
173
Rolex
6536/1
Submariner
137
Rolex
6538
Submariner, “Big Crown”, “Coroncione”
179
Rolex
6542
GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”
130
Rolex
6556
“Cairelli CP-2” El Primero
El Primero
T h e s to ry o f dri vers a nd t h e m yt h s t hat h a v e m ar k ed t i me w it h t he ir w at c h es. Time to Race is a journey through a period of over one hundred years with drivers, circuits and watches as protagonists. A story to understand the close ties that have characterized two often united worlds, such as car racing and watches. The watches worn by Mike Hawthorn, Stirling Moss and Carroll Shelby. The personal watches of Enzo Ferrari and Alfred Neubauer. The history of the watches that marks the time at the 24 hours of Le Mans. The personal collection of Alex Zanardi watches. Ayrton Senna’s personal watches. Almost 90 racing personalities and their watches. The great circuits and the watches dedicated to them. The great timekeepers and the history of the watch manufacturers involved directly in the competitions. Time to Race is the complete work on the long road that races and watches have traveled together. Written by Cesare Maria Mannucci and John Goldberger. Forewords by Piero Ferrari and TK Mak.
www.johngoldbergerwatches.com
Watches The Hong Kong Watch Auction X Hong Kong / 10 July 2020
Patek Philippe, reference 2499/100 An extremely fne and rare yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 1982 Estimate HK$ 3,500,000 – 5,000,000 Enquiries Thomas Perazzi Head of Watches, Asia ThomasPerazzi@phillips.com +852 2318 2031
phillips.com/watches
Guide for Prospective Buyers Buying at Auction The following pages are designed to ofer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staf will be happy to assist you. Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller. Bidders should also read the Important Notices immediately following this Guide for Prospective Buyers. Buyer’s Premium and Vat Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF400,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF400,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 13.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. Value added tax (VAT) of 7.7% is payable on the hammer price and the buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. The purchase price payable for any lot is the sum of the hammer price plus the buyer’s premium plus VAT. 1 Prior to Auction Catalogue Subscriptions If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +41 22 317 8181, +44 20 7318 4010 or +1 212 940 1240. Pre-Sale Estimates Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, ofer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where ‘Estimate on Request’ appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or VAT. Pre-Sale Estimates in US Dollars and Euros Although the sale is conducted in Swiss francs, the pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogues may also be printed in US dollars and/or euros. Since the exchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date of auction, you should treat estimates in US dollars or euros as a guide only. Catalogue Entries Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work of art, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the work in art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions of the property set forth in the catalogue entry are approximate. Condition of Lots Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staf are not professional restorers. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend, particularly in the case of any lot of signifcant value, that you retain
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•
No Reserve Unless indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are ofered subject to a reserve. A reserve is the confdential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate. ∑ Regulated Species Lots with this symbol have been identifed at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale. Ж Chinese origin Property Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips believes the Property was manufactured or created in mainland China. See paragraph 12 of the Conditions of Sale.
2 Bidding in the Sale Bidding at Auction Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identifcation will be required, as will an original signature and proof of address. We may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference. Undisclosed agreements between bidders to bid or abstain from bidding on lots are illegal. Please note that Phillips monitors its sales and bidding records to
3 The Auction ensure that bidding is transparent and fair and will take appropriate action in the event of any suspected breach of this requirement. Bidding in Person To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufcient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staf member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk. Bidding by Telephone If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multilingual staf members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone. Online Bidding If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe Flash Player. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ and then pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The frst time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafer you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate frewalls may cause difculties for online bidders. Absentee Bids If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confdential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and VAT. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. Employee Bidding Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the huissier or the auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’), may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. Bidding Increments Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the Auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment. CHF50 to CHF1,000 CHF1,000 to CHF2,000 CHF2,000 to CHF3,000 CHF3,000 to CHF5,000 CHF5,000 to CHF10,000 CHF10,000 to CHF20,000 CHF20,000 to CHF30,000 CHF30,000 to CHF50,000 CHF50,000 to CHF100,000 CHF100,000 to CHF200,000 above CHF200,000
by CHF50s by CHF100s by CHF200s by CHF200s, 500, 800 (i.e., CHF4,200, 4,500, 4,800) by CHF500s by CHF1,000s by CHF2,000s by CHF2,000s, 5,000, 8,000 by CHF5,000s by CHF10,000s at the Auctioneer’s discretion
The Auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.
Conditions of Sale As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may be amended by saleroom addendum or Auctioneer’s announcement. Interested Parties Announcement In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the benefciary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot. Consecutive and Responsive Bidding The Auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The Auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. No Reserve Lots If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low presale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. 4 After the Auction Payment Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements have been agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in Swiss francs by wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. Neither cash nor cheques will be accepted. Credit Cards As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. Collection It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Loss or Damage Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a maximum of seven days following the auction. Transport and Shipping As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling or shipping services directly. However, we will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by you in order to facilitate the packing, handling and shipping of property purchased at Phillips. Please refer to Paragraph 7 of the Conditions of Sale for more information. Export and Import Licences Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export the property from Switzerland or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licences or permits. The denial of any required licence or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. Regulated Species Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective
Important Notices of age, percentage or value, may require a licence or certifcate prior to exportation and additional licences or certifcates upon importation to the US or to any country within or outside the European Union (EU). Please note that the ability to obtain an export licence or certifcate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import licence or certifcate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licences or certifcates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientifc analysis regarding continent of origin and confrmation the object is more than 100 years old. We have not obtained a scientifc analysis on any lot prior to sale and cannot indicate whether elephant ivory in a particular lot is African or Asian elephant. Buyers purchase these lots at their own risk and will be responsible for the costs of obtaining any scientifc analysis or other report required in connection with their proposed import of such property into the US. With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identifcation and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the object qualifes as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certifying the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualifed independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot. Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. Privacy Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be flmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications. Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Condition Phillips makes no representation or warranty that any watch or clock is in working order, and no catalogue description of any lot should be construed as so stating. Prospective buyers are advised to have watches and clocks checked by a competent watchmaker or watch or clock restorer before use. As a service to prospective buyers, we may provide a description of the condition of watches and clocks in the catalogue entry, including references to defects and repairs, and furnish a condition report, but such information is not necessarily complete and may not specify all mechanical replacements, restorations or defects. Please note that Phillips does not guarantee the authenticity of any individual components parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since prior repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Nor does Phillips warrant that watches in waterresistant cases are currently water-resistant. Prospective buyers should inspect all watches and clocks prior to the auction to evaluate the condition of property ofered for sale. Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species Some of the watches ofered for sale in the catalogue may have bands made of endangered or protected animal materials, such as alligator or crocodile, and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained in Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers, these lots are marked with ∑ in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle. Authenticity Certifcates Certain manufacturers do not issue certifcates of authenticity, and Phillips has no obligation to furnish a buyer with a certifcate of authenticity from the manufacturer, except when specifcally noted in the catalogue. Unless Phillips is satisfed that we should cancel the sale in accordance with the Authorship Warranty provided in the Conditions of Sale, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certifcate will not constitute grounds for cancellation of the sale.
Conditions of Sale The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set forth below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale, the Important Notices immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers and the Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding. 1 Introduction Each lot in this catalogue is ofered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms printed in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Important Notices and (c) supplements to this catalogue or other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction. By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty. These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer. 2 Phillips As Agent Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company afliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an afliated company may have a legal, benefcial or fnancial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise. 3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis. (a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports as is consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made. (b) Each lot ofered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the lot prior to bidding and have satisfed themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description.
not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time by Phillips at our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our afliated companies shall be liable for any diference between the presale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale. 4 Bidding at Auction (a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips. (b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’s behalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Absentee Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate the maximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and value added tax (VAT). The huissier or auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’) will not accept an instruction to execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence. (c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Telephone Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least CHF1000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confrmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately afer such bid is accepted by the Auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation.
(d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online, bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction. Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids through Phillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid button on the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge and agree that bids so submitted are fnal and may not under any circumstances be amended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids are placed, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘foor’ bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In the event that an online bid and a ‘foor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘foor’ bid may take precedence at the Auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by the Auctioneer, as the Auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in a whole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide for Prospective Buyers.
(c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type which means that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they are inspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports may make reference to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may have other faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identifcation purposes only and cannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to the actual condition of lots.
(e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges.
(d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of fact but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may
(g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct.
(f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, each prospective buyer represents and warrants that any bids placed by such person, or on such person’s behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are otherwise consistent with federal and state antitrust law.
(h) Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the Auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures. 5 Conduct of the Auction (a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is ofered subject to a reserve, which is the confdential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction. (b) The Auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot, re-ofer a lot for sale (including afer the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the Auctioneer. If any dispute arises afer the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The Auctioneer may accept bids made by a company afliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot. (c) The Auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and in increments he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on any lot, the Auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold. (d) The sale will be conducted in Swiss francs and payment is due in Swiss francs. For the beneft of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue may be shown in US dollars and/or euros and, if so, will refect approximate exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in US dollars or euros should be treated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it is done so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any errors in currency conversion calculation. (e) Subject to the Auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder accepted by the Auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks the acceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between the seller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set forth in Paragraph 7 below. (f) If a lot is not sold, the Auctioneer will announce that it has been ‘passed’, ‘withdrawn’, ‘returned to owner’ or ‘bought-in’. (g) Any post-auction sale of lots ofered at auction shall incorporate these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction. 6 Purchase Price and Payment (a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, the buyer’s premium, plus any applicable value added tax (VAT) (the ‘Purchase Price’). The buyer’s premium is 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF400,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF400,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 13.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. Phillips reserves the right to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more third parties for assisting in the sale of property ofered and sold at auction. (b) VAT of 7.7% is payable on the hammer price plus buyer’s premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of VAT.
(c) Unless otherwise agreed, a buyer is required to pay for a purchased lot immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot. Payments must be made by the invoiced party in Swiss francs by wire transfer in accordance with the bank transfer details provided on the invoice for purchased lots. (d) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of CHF100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply. (e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identifcation has been provided, and any earlier release does not afect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price. 7 Collection of Property (a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our afliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfed such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including completing any anti-money laundering or anti-terrorism fnancing checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfed all of the foregoing conditions, he or she should contact us at +41 22 317 8181 to arrange for collection of purchased property. (b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days afer the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss or damage to property.
(c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling, insurance or shipping services. We will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer, whether or not recommended by Phillips, in order to facilitate the packing, handling, insurance and shipping of property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. Property is treated as collected by the buyer at the point it is handed over in Geneva by Phillips to the buyer or to a thirdparty shipper acting for the buyer. The buyer is responsible for paying any import duties and local taxes payable to import the Property to its fnal destination. (d) Phillips will require presentation of government-issued identifcation prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative. 8 Failure to Collect Purchases (a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of CHF10 per day for each uncollected lot. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full. (b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our afliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction. 9 Remedies for Non-Payment (a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one or more of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips‘s premises or elsewhere at the buyer’s sole risk and expense; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any
partial payment of the Purchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer or render such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% per annum from the date payment became due until the date the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (v) subject to notifcation of the buyer, exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct our afliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which is in their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such notice arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amount owed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all salerelated expenses and any applicable taxes thereon; (vi) resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for less than the original hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, the buyer will remain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii) commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) set of the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts which we or any of our afliated companies may owe the buyer in any other transactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal costs; or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate. (b) The buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to exercise a lien over the buyer’s property which is in our possession upon notifcation by any of our afliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment. Phillips will notify the buyer of any such lien. The buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips, upon notifcation by any of our afliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment, to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our afliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an afliated company by way of pledge.
(c) If the buyer is in default of payment, the buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to instruct any of our afliated companies in possession of the buyer’s property to deliver the property by way of pledge as the buyer’s agent to a third party instructed by Phillips to hold the property on our behalf as security for the payment of the Purchase Price and any other amount due and, no earlier than 30 days from the date of written notice to the buyer, to sell the property in such manner and for such consideration as can reasonably be obtained on a forced sale basis and to apply the proceeds to any amount owed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon. 10 Rescission by Phillips Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale. 11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licences and Permits Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export a lot from Switzerland or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientifc analysis of continent of origin and confrmation the object is more than 100 years old.
With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identifcation and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the item qualifes as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certify the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object containing endangered species into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualifed independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot.
It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any necessary export, import and endangered species licences or permits. Failure to obtain a licence or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species. 12. US Imports Customs Tarifs Buyers intending to import property into the United States of America should note that US Customs may charge an additional import duty upon the importation of (i) products manufactured or created in mainland China and (ii) printed materials (including photographs, prints, lithographs, books and designs) printed in the UK or Germany. Phillips will mark with a symbol lots which may be subject to additional US import tarifs, where this is known to us. Please note, however, that any such markings are done by us only as a convenience to bidders. Phillips does not accept liability for errors including failing to mark lots accurately or for the absence of any marking. Export, Import, Sales and/or Use Taxes Buyers should note that they are responsible for all charges, duties and taxes related to the exportation and importation of lots shipped by them or shipped on their behalf, including any applicable Sales and/or Use Taxes which may be due on importing the property to the United States. Please contact the department organising the auction for further details. 13 Privacy (a) You acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with our privacy policy from time to time as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. (b) Our privacy policy sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data (including for example the provision of auction, private sale and related services; the performance and enforcement of these terms and conditions; the carrying out of identity and credit checks; keeping you informed about upcoming auctions, exhibitions and special events; and generally where reasonably necessary in the management and operation of our business); (iii) the lawful bases on which we rely in undertaking our processing of your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws. (c) Phillips premises and sale and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes and will be flmed during the auction for simultaneous live broadcast on our and third party websites and applications. By remaining in these areas, you acknowledge that you may be photographed, flmed and recorded and grant your permission for your likeness and voice to be included in such recordings. If you do not wish to be photographed or flmed or appear in such recordings, please speak to a member of Phillips staf. Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g. telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com.
14 Limitation of Liability (a) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot. (b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 14, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our afliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our afliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot. (c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and ftness for purpose, are specifcally excluded by Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law. (d) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in sub-paragraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterised as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law. (e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our afliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions. 15 Copyright The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it. 16 General (a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements. (b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specifed at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notifed by them in writing to Phillips. (c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives. (d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and efect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part. 17 Law and Jurisdiction (a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with Swiss law. (b) For the beneft of Phillips, all bidders and sellers agree that the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva, Switzerland are to have exclusive jurisdiction to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which
these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply, subject to appeal to the Federal Tribunal. All parties agree that Phillips shall retain the right to bring proceedings in any court other than the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva. (c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by Swiss law, the law of the place of service or the law of the jurisdiction where proceedings are instituted at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips.
Authorship Warranty Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in BOLD or CAPITALIZED type for a period of fve years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below and the Important Notices set out in this catalogue immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers. (a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e., the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gif from the original buyer, heirs, successors, benefciaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue states that there is a confict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientifc methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot; or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry. (b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us. (c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notifed Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the salesroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising afer the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above. (d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our afliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.
Paddle Number
7 rue de la Confédération, 1204 Geneva phillipswatches.com +41 22 317 8181 bidsgeneva@phillips.com • Private Purchases: Proof of identity in the form of government-issued identification and proof of address will be required.
Please return this form by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com at least 24 hours before the sale. Please read carefully the information in the right column and note that it is important that you indicate whether you are applying to bid as an individual or on behalf of a company. Please select the type of bid you wish to make with this form (please select one):
In-person Absentee Bidding Telephone Bidding
• Conditions Of Sale: All bids are placed and executed, and all lots are sold and purchased, subject to the Conditions of Sale printed in the catalogue. Please read them carefully before placing a bid. Your attention is drawn to Paragraph 4 of the Conditions of Sale. • If you cannot attend the sale, we can execute bids confdentially on your behalf.
Please indicate in what capacity you will be bidding (please select one):
As a private individual On behalf of a company Sale Title Title
Sale Number First Name
Sale Date
Surname Account Number
Company (if applicable)
• Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF400,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF400,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 13.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000. • “Buy” or unlimited bids will not be accepted. Alternative bids can be placed by using the word “OR” between lot numbers.
Address
City
• For absentee bids, indicate your maximum limit for each lot, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable VAT. Your bid will be executed at the lowest price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. On no reserve lots, in the absence of other bids, your bid will be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount specifed, if less than 50% of the low estimate.
State/Country
Zip Code Phone
Mobile
Fax
• Your bid must be submitted in the currency of the sale and may be rounded down to the nearest amount consistent with the auctioneer’s bidding increments.
Phone number to call at the time of sale (for Phone Bidding only) 1.
• If we receive identical bids, the frst bid received will take precedence.
2.
Please complete the following section for telephone and absentee bids only Lot Number
• Company Purchases: If you are buying under a business entity, we require a copy of government-issued identifcation (such as the certifcate of incorporation) as well as proof of owners and directors to verify the status of the company. This should be accompanied by an ofcial document confrming the company’s EU VAT registration number, if applicable.
Brief Description
In Consecutive Order
Maximum Swiss Francs price* Absentee Bids Only
• Arranging absentee and telephone bids is a free service provided by us to prospective buyers. While we will exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for errors relating to execution of your bids except in cases of wilful misconduct. Agreement to bid by telephone must be confrmed by you promptly in writing or by fax. Telephone bid lines may be recorded. • Please submit your bids to the Bid Department by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com or by fax at +41 22 317 8180 at least 24 hours before the sale. You will receive confirmation by email within one business day. To reach the Bid Department by phone please call +41 22 317 8181. • Payment for lots can be made by credit card (up to CHF100,000) using Visa, American Express or MasterCard, or by wire transfer. Please note that credit cards are subject to a surcharge. • Lots cannot be collected until payment has cleared and all charges have been paid. • By signing this Bid Form, you acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with Phillips’s Privacy Policy as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com. • Phillips’s premises and sale and exhibition venues may be subject to video surveillance and recording. Telephone calls (e.g., telephone bidding) may also be recorded. We may process that information in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
* Excluding Buyer’s Premium and VAT
Signature
Date
By ticking this box, you confrm your registration/bid(s) as above and accept the Conditions of Sale of Phillips as stated in our catalogues and on our website.
Please tick this box to receive emails about upcoming sales, exhibitions, and special events ofered by members of the Phillips group, as referenced in our Privacy Policy available on our website at www.phillips.com, where you may also update your email preferences or unsubscribe at any time.
Sale information Geneva, 27 & 28 June 2020
Specialist
Taiwan Senior Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189 aghotbi@phillips.com
Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com Business Development Manager
Specialists
Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395 drosa@phillips.com
Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63 tto@phillips.com
Administrator
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East
Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182 vliatard@phillips.com Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy Auction & Viewing Location La Réserve 301, Route de Lausanne 1293 Bellevue, Switzerland Auctions Saturday, 27 June 2020, 5pm Session 1 Sunday, 28 June 2020, 5pm Session 2
Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62 atouchot@phillips.com Specialist & Business Development Associate Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81 mdemarco@phillips.com
Jennifer Chung +1 212 940 1314 jenniferchung@phillips.com Hong Kong
Shipping
Jill Chen +852 2318 2033 jchen@phillips.com
shippingwatches@phillips.com
Under the aegis of Maître Tristan Reymond, Huissier Judiciaire
Business Development Manager
Viewing
Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187 dortega@phillips.com
When sending in written bids or making enquiries please refer to this sale as CH080120 or The Geneva Watch Auction: XI
Marc-Antoine Moreau +41 22 317 96 60 mamoreau@phillips.com
Shoyo Kawamura +852 2318 2035 shoyokawamura@phillips.com Senior Administrator Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031 jackylam@phillips.com Administrator Stanley Sit +852 2318 2018 stanleysit@phillips.com London International Specialist James Marks +44 20 7901 7916 jmarks@phillips.com
Francesco Campi +41 22 317 96 71 fcampi@phillips.com
Specialist
Watchmaker, Technical Support
Chris Youé +44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com
Nicolas Commergnat info@alliance-geneve.com
Administrator & Client Liaison
Watch Department
New York
Helena Cross +44 20 7901 2907 helena.cross@phillips.com
Geneva
Head of Watches Americas, International Strategy Advisor
Paris
Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
International Business Development Director
Senior International Specialist
Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89 pku@phillips.com
Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
Tokyo
Tel +41 22 317 8181 Fax +41 22 317 8180 bidsgeneva@phillips.com
Senior Consultants Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188 abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188 lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com Executive Assistant to Senior Consultants Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188 ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
International Specialist and Head of Perpetual, Americas Geof Hess +1 917 297 6328 ghess@phillips.com
Jess Hofman
Advisory Board
Finance & Ofce Administration
Absentee and Telephone Bids
clientaccountsswatches@phillips.com
Photography
Cataloguer
Sale Designation
catalogueswatches@phillips.com Catalogues 50 CHF / £35 / $50
Head of Watches, Hong Kong
Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183 nmonbaron@phillips.com
Shipping & Ofce Coordinator
Catalogues
Client Accounts
Regional Director, Business Development Director
Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667 abenard@phillips.com
Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034 zlu@phillips.com
Thomas Perazzi +852 2318 2030 thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Head of Sale & Specialist
Administrator
Consultant
Head of Watches, Asia
Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032 ziyongho@phillips.com
Wednesday, 24 June, 10am–8pm Thursday, 25 June, 10am–8pm Friday, 26 June, 10am–8pm Saturday, 27 June, 9am–3.30pm Sunday, 28 June, 9am–3.30pm
Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449 cyen@phillips.com
Senior Specialist Consultant Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818 gsakamoto@phillips.com Senior Consultant Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818 kfujimoto@phillips.com
Jean-Claude Biver Henry Chan Helmut Crott Ike Honigstock Stephen Charles Li David Lou TK Mak Auro Montanari Jason Singer Kenneth Wong
Watches / 8 December
New York
Sell With Us Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo achieved $111 million in 2019 with a 96% sell-through rate – another landmark year for Phillips’ Watches department. We are pleased to announce our Fall 2020 auction in New York. If you are interested in selling with us this season, we invite you to contact us via email or submit property using our online consignment tool.
Deadline to consign is 31 August. Enquiries watchesny@phillips.com Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, a yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch, circa 1951. Sold December 2019, $2,024,000 phillips.com/watches
phillips.com/watches