the magazine issue 1, september 2011
Innovation in fashion and beauty Janet Morais and her coquette furniture Genko Genkov the harmony of madness
Gio Metodiev
and the shoes that conquered Hollywood
Dear readers,
Again, here we are in front of the page in which I pretend to say something meaningful and you pretend to read it. And so on until I finally tell you what`s in the issue. Three lost sentences later, I begin. Firstly, there are shoes in the issue. Made in Italy by Bulgarian designer Gio Metodiev, who is gaining bigger recognition in the US by the minute. Shoes that every woman would love to swim in at least until she drowns. There is also a thread for the innovation which is inextricably bound up with the well-forgotten old. There is also madness. From the kind we wish for any sane person to see at least once in his lifetime. There is also an end we put before we annoy our very selves too. And now there is a beginning.
Biliana Dimitrova editor-in-chief
Pinks - the magazine issue 1, september 2011 on the cover: The Odessa sketch by Gio Diev illustration: Gio Metodiev
editor`s 3
september 2011
Table of contents 6 New in september
On the cover: Gio Metodiev
18 The most succesfull Bulgarian designer in the US and his love affair with shoes
24
Shopping
Fashion innovators
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the magazine
Innovation in beauty
34
Biliana Dimitrova editor-in-chief biliana@pinks.bg
Eli Parusheva art director eli@pinks.bg
ELS & Random Graphic design and photography -------------------
Janet Morais, in search of the perfect room
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Contributors:
Simeon Pekov, Andriana Kotseva, Yana Dimitrova, Kristina Ivanova, Stanimira Yanakieva, Angel Marintchev, Todor Tzvetkov editorial@pinks.bg --------------------
Martin Kostashki editor-at-large Iveta Bozhkova international relations --------------------
Advertising Iliana Petrova, Kremena Ivanova advertising@pinks.bg
Genko Genkov the harmony of madness
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Pinks is a monthly e-magazine for fashion, culture and lifestyle. The magazine and all of its contents, including but not limited to, all text, images and all photographs are owned by or granted to Pinks Ltd by their respective owners and are protected by Copyright Law. Using, publishing or disseminating any part of any content for commercial purposes is prohibited without prior written permission of Pinks Ltd.
Bourgeois Sofia revived 16-18 September, the garden behind the Russian Church, Sofia
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By Iveta Yuskeselieva
http://www.retrosofiafest.com/about.html
Photography: „From grandma`s photo album“
et ready for a journey of 100 years into the past – in retro times for the capital of Bulgaria. Thanks to Sofia Retro Festival, organized to celebrate the Day of Sofia, within three days the town guests can indulge in recreated authentic atmosphere of metropolitan life in the period from the Bulgarian Renaissance to World War II. The garden behind the Russian Church will be the center of the recreated bourgeois Sofia, symbolically called “The promenade“. There visitors can find shops with goodies, listen to retro music or be photographed for an authentic souvenir from a tripod. A true vintage wedding will take place in the Russian Church, while the two photo competitions „From grandma`s photo album“ and „Lost Sofia – on Focus“, will reveal unique archival footage from the past of the town.
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Now Unlimited - the grand finale of London Dress Code September 29th , Sofia
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he final event of the London Dress Code series will complete London`s chronological history through the eyes of Bulgarian artists with the mandatory British music background in the end of September. The finale of the performances from the past two years is called “Now Unlimited” and will take a closer look at the last decade - the period between 2000-2010, or the decade
of globalization. After the dozens of names of young Bulgarian designers in past fashion shows, devoted to the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s of last century, it`s now time for the “present” decade. It is entrusted to Nulla - new joint label of designers Jelena Kesic and Boyan Petrushevski, who will present their view on the most turbulent and rich in references period in the history of fashion so far. www.nulla.eu
www.ivanasen22.com
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Antwerp honours Walter van Beirendonck
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new
Fall-winter 1986/87 – Bad Baby Boys Photography: Patrick Robyn
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he Museum of Fashion in Antwerp MoMu presents the first major exhibition devoted to the work of designer Walter Van Beirendonck. The Avant-garde Belgian designer is a cult figure in the fashion world and his creations rout with screaming accuracy the absurdities of our time. That`s why the name of the exhibition – “Dream the world awake”, is so appropriate for the philosophy of Walter Van Beirendonck. We don`t expect anything different from one of the legendary “Magnificent Six” of Antwerp, except once again to awaken the world with deep inspiration, colors and shapes, which made him one of the founders of the Belgian fashion rebellion. Curators of MoMu track milestones for the designer and his brand, including his many side projects. On a special focus are the stage costumes for the U2 tour PopMart, created by Walter in 1997. And if this is not enough - Walter, photographer Nick Knight, stylist Simon Foxton and the British edition of GQ Style have prepared a new photo and video project, created for the exhibition.
W.&L.T. spring-summer 1996 – Killer/Astral Travel/4D-Hi-D Photography: Ronald Stoops
Walter Van Beirendonck, campaign for Dream the world awake, Photography: Jean Baptiste Mondino
Fall-winter 2011/12 – Hand on Heart Photography: Ronald Stoops
14 September 2011 – 19 February 2012, MoMu, Antwerp
http://www.waltervanbeirendonck.com/
http://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/upcoming/
Dazed & Confused, august 2010 ‘The Joy of Six’ Photography: Scott Trindle, Styling: Robbie Spencer
new 9
Picturing movement: Degas and the ballet
http://www.royalacademy.org.uk/exhibitions/degas/
17 september – 11 december 2011, Royal Academy of Arts, London and his beloved ballerinas. Poorly researched is the last period from the artist`s life, when he begins to study excitedly this new art and the characteristics of the cinefilm; and the exhibit will show those exact uncollected pieces of history. Along, of course, will be shown over 80 of the well and not so well-known works of Degas, all of which trying to capture the movements of the elegant ballerinas.
Photography: Picselect
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he Royal Academy of Arts in London opens its fall season of exhibitions with a bouquet of the most gracious of arts. „Degas and the ballet: Picturing movement“ meets us with the endless fascination of Edgar Degas with ballet, turned in to an even greater form of beauty in the sculptures and paintings of the artist. For the first time the public will be able to reach for the beginnings of the film art again through Degas
Power in a glass bottle
http://pavlinachakarova.com/bg/index.html
The installation „Super water“ by Pavlina Chakarova says „thank you“ in 45 languages
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he power of water, the power of words and the power of emotions tangle in a project in development that we’re yet to follow with interest. The project in question is the installation „Super water“ by Pavlina Chakarova. At first glance, these are the most common glass bottles with the crystal liquid, labeled with the same word in many languages - „thank you“. So far the first six have been created - in Macedonian, Vietnamese, Danish, Portuguese, Belarussian and Romanian, and they already are a part of the collection of the Macedonian art colony and will be exhibited in 2012 in Skopje. And their idea is simple and beautiful – to make us feel the positive energy we put into this „miraculous“ word, as the artist describes it. “In the installation “Super water“
I use the power of positive vibrations as a tool to build vital power. It is scientifically proven that the structure of water is influenced by the importance of sounds and words in the surrounding area. So I assume that water molecules become harmonious shapes under the influence of positively charged words. The power of words is especially used in religions, where the same text is repeated to strengthen the faith. It occurred to me that if the prayers are positively charged expressions, it is logical that everyone may apply vibration of good words and turn ordinary water into holy water,“ says Pavlina. And she collects another “thank you” from us for the positive idea!
Photography: Pavlina Chakarova
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A piece of New York at night I know you from New York with Carolina Herrera and Luis Venegas
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Photography: J.D. Ferguson
Photography: Derek Blasberg
Photography: Derek Blasberg
Photography: J.D. Ferguson
ashion designer Carolina Herrera and the renowned magazine editor Luis Venegas combined their love for New York, fashion, photography and well-told stories all together in a joint project. This is how the book „I know you from New York” was born – a limited edition of 1500 copies, tracing cult places, people and events in the city that never sleeps. „I know you from New York” is not just a collection of famous faces. This is a piece of New York’s nightlife, seen through the eyes of five photographers“, says the designer. The publication of the book coincides with the most recent project of Carolina Herrera for the fragrance 212 VIP Men, which follows the New York party thread of 212 VIP for the ladies.
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Yves Saint Laurent, the one
The book about the designer marks the beginning of series of fashion biographies
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cyanmagentayellowblack
n September we advise you to acquire the biography of the maestro Yves Saint Laurent by the French journalist Лоранс Бенаим and author Laurence Benaim. „Yves Saint Laurent“ is the first book of the fashion series of Colibri Publishing house, in which we also expect the stories of Prada, Биография Armani, Роклята не е архитектура, а дом: тя не е ушита, за бъде съзерцавана, а за да бъде agree обитавана. Жената, Versace and more top designers.дакоято But we fully that я носи, трябва да се чувства красива в нея и да Ӝ е удобно. Всичко останало е измишльотина. such a sequence should begin with Monsieur Laurent, Ив Сен Лоран the history of prêt-a-porter, „Rive азиGauche“, the tuxedo първа биография на големия френски моден дизайнер Ив Сен Лоран е разказ за човека, роден през 1936 г. в Оран и заявил на тринайсетгодишand the fragile spirit behind all наthis titanic fashion, art възраст: „Един ден името ми ще е изписано с огнени букви на „Шан-з-Елизе“. Разказ за младежа в тъмния and “joie de vivre” progress, thatкостюм, theкойто fiery name ofнаследява Yves на двайсет и една години Кристиан Диор, за мъжа, който минава през депресии, алкохол, за твореSaint Laurent left to us. „The dress isнаркотици not и електрошокове, architecture, ца, който заедно с Пиер Берже, своя делови и интипартньор, създава неподражаемата империя на but a home: it is not tailored to мен be observed, but to be модата, известна просто с инициалите си – YSL. На 7 януари 2002 г., в деня, когато отбелязва четиinhabited. The woman who wearsрийсетата it should feel beautiful годишнина от създаването на модната си къща, Ив Сен Лоран се сбогува с висшата мода. А на 1 юни 2008 г. големият парижки дизайнер, последand comfortable in it. Everythingниятelse is a contraption”, от класиците на модния дизайн, умира от рак на мозъка. says Yves Saint Laurent.
ИВСЕН
ЛОРАН
Т
Т
ази книга е посветена на трудния и вълнуващ път на моделиера с тънък вкус и неповторим усет за женската дреха, създал стила „бийт“ на шейсетте години, прет-а-портето „Рив гош“, панталоните и смокингите за жени, лансирал суперпарфюмите Opium и Paris, но и на невероятния и непознат свят на висшата мода.
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оранс Бенаим е журналистка, дълги години е работила във вестник „Монд“, понастоящем ръководи списанието за независима мода „Стилет“. Автор е на няколко биографични книги.
Лоранс Бенаим
Лоранс Бенаим
ИВ СЕН
ЛОРАН
ИВСЕН
ЛОРАН
Биография
18 лв. „Yves Saint Laurent- biography“ Colibri PH www.colibri.bg
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Tasty voyages to China T
he most authentic book proposal on the market this month is “The kitchen of the heart” by Chinese author and culinary expert Ma Wen Yi. 60 traditional recipes of the exceptionally rich flavored depository of China are presented in the edition, and they are all suitable for preparation at home. More importantly for any novice cook in this particular kitchen seems that each one of the recipes in the book is fully detailed in beautiful color illustrations. Moreover, Ma Wen Yi, who maintains her own culinary program on television and enjoys an impressive 100 million visitors on her blog, visually guides you how to prepare traditional Chinese dishes in a few easy steps. „The kitchen of the heart“ abounds of tips and advice for making specific ingredients and spices needed for the authenticity of the dishes. Homey feeling is reinforced by the personal observations of the author at the beginning of each section with a distinct type of recipes, where she recounts stories of her life, intertwined with impressions and sensations of the food.
„The Kitchen of the heart“, Entropy 1 PH
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ново
http://blog.sina.com.cn/wenyi
„
Our life in those years was way more ordinary and calm, as a tomato and egg soup. The red tomatoes, the fresh eggs… sometimes my mother would put coriander in the soup which stimulated my appetite. When I grew up the first thing I cooked was tomato and egg soup and my little sister was the first “guinea pig” in my culinary career. Now tomatoes are sold even in winter, but their taste isn’t as it used to be. We forgot how to make tomato juice too. Regardless the time and place, whenever I eat a tomato and egg soup I feel I miss the taste of that time, the taste of my grandma, of my mother, the taste of my childhood. I know this is because of the memories rushing into my head. In fact, maybe it`s not the taste of the soup that changed, but us. I am the cook in the family now and I`m really happy when I see that everyone is enjoying my meals. The years go by and I still keep the memory of those olden day tomatoes. Isn`t this what love is? I really don`t know. Ma Wen Yi (author)
„ new 17
Gio Metodiev:
This is my art! By Biliana Dimitrova Photography: Personal archive, Gio Diev
Gio Metodiev and his Gio Diev brand of shoes can be presented with numerous clichés and they all will be true. He is young and he is successful. He is the Bulgarian trace on the red carpet. He is in the category of ‘paramount’ masters of the most fetished ladies accessory and is second to no one from the world’s acknowledged names – both as a level of performance and as creativity. Amongst his clients are Brooke Shields, Rosario Dawson and Rose Byrne and his shoes are sold in New York and Las Vegas – two cities, which Gio deliberately chose after his first step, Sofia. Behind all these clichés I have tried to find the motive power driving them and, naturally, found it in the greatest of all clichés. Gio simply loves his work – this is the great secret.
The most successful Bulgarian designer in the USA and his love affair with shoes
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ello, Gio! How is the preparation for the new fashion season going? I am asking you since you are among the very few Bulgarian designers, keeping abreast with industry’s world turnovers. My spring-summer 2012 collection is ready. Last week we shot the catalogue and at the moment I am organizing private meetings with editors and stylists. The new models will be unveiled officially in October, during Paris Fashion week. Meanwhile I am still working on the promotion of Fall 2011 and making sketches of the new ideas for Fall/Winter 2012/2013. There are about three seasons bustling in my head. It is a little bit weird to think about above-the knee high heel boots in August but that is my job.
For me the shoe is not only something to be worn on our feet. Each and every model is a sculpture. This is my art and the way through which I express my creativity. During my whole career I’ve been working in the fashion business and I have always felt some strange attraction to the shoe. Not that it is something that can be logically explained, it just happens. A lot like one kid chooses to play with the ball and another wants to learn how to play the guitar… What about the very process of shoemaking? This is rather a specific art, one must admit.
Whatever I do I must always be fully committed to it. It was of crucial importance to learn from the best in the craft so I moved to Milan and for a year lived literally in the factory. I absorbed everything I could about the art Why did you choose the shoes and how did it all of shoemaking. Each style has so many elements from begin? the mould, the platform and the heel, to the zip and the
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cover story
„Before“ and „after“ - Gio`s sketches in project and as finished models from his collection for fall-winter 2011
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The style from Pinks` September cover - Odessa label. It felt like being 16 again, learning everything for right to own any primary colour as his/her trademark. the first time. That would create rather a strange precedent. Imagine if every single colour were a trademark, then how could Now you are creating luxurious shoes of the highest we create? class. Where do you make them? Did you create your pseudonym for the trade mark All the shoes are handmade in Northern Italy by the by yourself? world’s best artisans who are also in charge of Manolo Blahnik’s production. It was extremely important to work Yes! I wanted a name that had sort of “international” with people, whose standards are exceptionally high and sense, keeping at the same time the roots of my Bulgarian at the same time are not afraid of new ideas and are name. ready to experiment. You worked in Milan, you are living in New York and What according to you is your distinguishing you presented your collection in Paris. Which of feature? How do you make Gio Diev’s shoes these fashion capitals was of greatest importance recognizable? for Gio Diev’s success? And where can we keep an eye on you? For my collections I use only uniquely made materials. The sword-heel is my trade mark. I am striving to achieve Every city is an integral part of my trademark and my confident and powerful style with clean, architectural lines essence as a designer. New York is my home so I always – where nothing is missing and nothing is superfluous. feel well there. Milan charges me with plenty of creative But I am also always in search of some mystery. Woman energy and Paris is the ultimate chic. Parisians literally by nature is so complex, with so many secrets and I hope breathe, think and live fashion round the clock. to embody these features of her in my creations. Why have you decided to start with a boutique in Do you have an opinion on the Yves Saint Laurent- Sofia? Christian Louboutin argument? These are my roots, my family lives there. I considered Тhat is an interesting argument. It is obvious that YSL it important to have a presentation on Sofia. Moreover, I are trying to make capital out of Louboutin and his red would never dare deprive the beautiful Bulgarian women sole’s popularity. On the other hand, no designer has the of my shoes…
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„All the shoes are handmade in Northern Italy by the world’s best artisans who are also in charge of Manolo Blahnik’s production.“
www.giodiev.com The Gio Diev boutique in Sofia Photography: Todor Tzvetkov
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„For such a small country the number of gifted people is amazing“ You already have boutiques in New York and Las presence is tangibly felt. I am an optimist that we are on Vegas and a celebrity clientele. How did you make the right track. your “star” breakthrough in the USA and who of Tell us about your new Fall/Winter 2011 collection. the celebrities first trusted you? Where did you get your inspiration from, is there a Rose Byrne was the first star. I am very grateful to them special theme, what are the materials used? all for their support but this is not something that can be planned. At first I got in touch with some of the stars’ The Fall collection is inspired by the woman-warrior. While stylists and they indeed liked my ideas and style. Then drafting the sketches my thoughts were about Mata Hari, I showed my works to several celebrities who were also Joan of Arc, the ancient amazons. I wanted to recreate their strong spirit and self-confidence. My starting point impressed. The rest, as they say, is history. was the sword-heel. I was attracted by materials such as Is there any difference in the taste for shoes in mirror leather, satin, velvet, chiffon and snakeskin and Bulgaria and the USA? What are your observations the prevailing colours are champagne, midnight blue, about preferences of women here and there? bronze and warm grey. I think that the American women just fall in love with the shoes and buy them without hesitation. In Bulgaria women are more practical – they take into consideration the bag, the event, the season, the weather… The attitude is different but both types appreciate it when something is beautifully created with fantasy and imagination. Do you follow the development of Bulgarian fashion podium? Are there any talents that you have spotted? I am a great admirer of the designed Igor Iliovski, who also happens to be a good friend of mine. He has great ideas and an exquisite sense for style.
Our issue is about innovation. What is it, according to you? Innovation is craving for information and curiosity about the surrounding world. It means leaving your own thoughts and problems looking at the world with the eyes of a child. Every city, museum, film or book make me a new person; add something new in me… And finally – what inspired the shoe from Pinks` cover and is this your favourite model?
The inspiration came from an ancient helmet that I saw in Metropolitan Museum in New York. It had a long black horse tail that I substituted with black ribbon. What I What is missing in our fashion industry for it to be like about the model was that it possesses very strong competitive? features – straight lines, the sword-heel, asymmetric Lately Bulgarians in the fashion business appear more cuff around the ankles; yet it is very feminine with its and more often on the world market. For such a small mirror leather and this abundance of ribbon, falling as a country the number of gifted people is amazing and their fountain…
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Fashion in 8 bits 8 bit Fashionary is the mandatory buy of the season!
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24 shopping
Gucci
Louis Vuitton
Prada
Yves Saint Laurent
ven if you try you won`t be able to find a better deal on all memorable pieces from the iconic brands than the idea of 8 bit fashionary. While including all of their favourite looks from the brands` fashion shows for the past season, the designers of Fashionary recreate them in their pixelized versions. Below every model there is a specification on who you are „wearing“. The unique prints are sold in A0 and A1 formats for $60 and $45 respectively. You can order those to any country by sending a request to penter@fashionary.org. Delivery is free.
shopping 25
Maison Martin Margiela
Celine
Alexander McQueen
Gareth Pugh
Balmain
http://fashionary.org/
Future in the present fashion innovators
By Martin Kostashki
Photography: Balenciaga, Pierre Hardy, Proenza Schouler, Haider Ackermann, Rodarte, Gap
Who are the designers who are projecting our tomorrow style today?
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Proenza Schouler: innovation as interpretation
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little known fact is that maestro Valentino Garavani himself greatly supports young and talented boys from the US fashion label Proenza Schouler. World-known fact is that they conquered the fashion world headlong, season after season, leaving even well established names in the industry to breathe their dust, light years behind them, literally. Why light years? Because this is the pace and the ultimate goal that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez wish to reach in their work. It would be difficult do determine even by the best experts in the field which is the strongest feature or the most innovative technique in the work of Proenza, but certainly skillful and daring interpretations of well-known things is a method they`ve developed brilliantly. In another of the conceptual collections of the boys we discover pointedly placed cowboy and combinations of fabrics and prints from folklore that are part of an almost uniformed city structure. It is interesting and exciting feeling that designers strive for a rediscovery of long forgotten cultures or objects to which we are accustomed to and who function in a certain, very old and outdated way. This new light that Jack and Lazaro project and which they transform into their creations is amazingly attractive to contemporary urban and business oriented woman. The tribe feeling that emanates from each garment coming out of the creative hands of the designers completes our fast going lives, our numerous trips, work changes, accommodations and even the people around us! Innovation in its various shapes, such as interpretation and revival, awakening and a prospect of the future, but from the present point of view is the hidden trump card and well kept „secret“ of Proenza Schouler. And we are happy and proud that we can be consumers of the imagination of some young, still fragile, but still geniuses.
Proenza Schouler fall-winter 2011/12
Rodarte fall-winter 2009/10
Rodarte: innovations as construction, reconstruction and deconstruction
Rodarte spring-summer 2010
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Rodarte spring-summer 2009
isters Kate and Laura Mulleavy from Rodarte are the official and unequivocal apogee of New York fashion week each season. „They are something new and interesting, a breath of fresh air, there‘s nothing like them in the US market“, boldly decides the chief editor of Italian fashion bible Vogue – Franca Sozanni. Kirsten Dunst, Elijah Wood, Liv Tyler and Sofia Coppola are just a few of the names that sit on the front row of Rodarte’s defiles and declare their love and loyalty to the brand. But what is so special, what is it that distinguishes Rodarte from anything else in the US market and what is innovative in their design and work? These are the questions that would be asked only by a pair of eyes that haven’t experienced the supreme pleasure to be faced with romantic philosophy and fashion masterpieces branded by the Mulleavy sisters! Mysteriousness surrounds the works of Rodarte. Romantic feeling that emanates from some fabrics and soft colours of the dresses of the design team is opposed to a not so gentle and innocent of Rodarte. Apocalyptic romance or romantic end idea, for an apocalypse now, the end of the world, of the world, unseen, unimaginable, difficult to a world of destruction, sunk in deep darkness. rationalize this thesis; idea or a living reality - this is the rigid statement in which Kate and Laura make. Yes, the combination is strange, almost inexplicable and even confusing the senses, but is a fact. The unprecedented and surprisingly winning method Deconstruction and reconstruction of the silhouette, of mixing materials and visual images, sealed on constructive deconstruction, but in the milky, soft the models of the designers is another story. It`s a tones of sunrise or sunset, the crimson sky or true mobile art, a living organism in which any of us prairie’s fairy fields of Kansas are the trademarks could live in. Live... and how indeed!
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Haider Ackermann fall-winter 2011/12
Colour layering of Haider Ackermann is almost unsurpassed in the field of fashion design.
Haider Ackermann: Before you build something new you must first destroy everything old!
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vividly revealed in his in-depth look at women‘s spirituality and impeccable manners of work to which we add an almost painfully careful regard to detail of each garment. The quality of workmanship, the combination of different and sometimes mutually exclusive fabrics and textures, complete the devoid of mediocrity work of the designer. The color palette or color-matching and color layers of Haider Ackermann are almost unsurpassed in the field of fashion design. Exoticism and vividness are inevitably the result of his international personality, we can clearly see African distinctiveness or typical of South American color combinations. The genius of Haider is hard to describe in a few sentences. But the fact is that his precise and inimitable style in combination with the innovative techniques by which he manages to picture not the woman of his dreams, but the woman from reality, created the pedestal on which the world has placed him. This same world, and particularly Paris and the fashion elite of the planet are in silent anticipation of the Undoubtedly, Belgian education left a serious mark next touching and highly dramatic performance on the fashion poet Ackermann. And it is most labeled Haider Ackermann. aider Ackermann is an interesting international artist of contrasts. With Columbian roots, raised in Africa and graduated from the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, exotic Haider took over the world fashion capital Paris almost immediately. His whimsical and often surprising solutions on the structure and silhouette of the garment are very close and almost similar to those of the Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte. At Ackermann the radical deconstruction is strongly pronounced, but only as a starting point or as an introduction to the saturated and emotional drama that tells each of his collections. Whereupon deliberately and in a beautifully impressive way he tears down the old and painfully familiar silhouette, based on stereotypes, as a sand castle; and then the real innovation begins, which involves the building of an almost architectural and very detailed composition. Haider‘s clothes are expressive in nature, multilayered and highly dramatic, even when we are talking about color combinations. Or in one word – they are unique.
fashion 29
If Picasso was a pair of shoes He would be Pierre Hardy
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f Picasso was a pair of shoes, he would definitely be Pierre Hardy. The French accessories designer Pierre Hardy, infamous for turning any dream pair of shoes into a walking and tapping reality, is the absolute embodiment of the theme for innovation in art and in fashion. For 10 years lovely, in happiness and sadness, for richer or for poorer, in moments of economic crisis and financial growth, Pierre Hardy and one of the most respected and aristocratic French fashion houses – Balenciaga, have been working brilliantly together. That lasting and successful union between Nicholas Ghesquiere and Pierre Hardy is marked by a series of amazing collections of clothes and shoes resting on a mutual fashion concept which generally explains the style of both designers: innovation, a look into the future. The future, but today, now! The future you can wear in the present moment. Hardy is a smiley, charming man with a face that expresses cheerfulness and even an undisguised childlike enthusiasm. His desire to play and have fun is easy to notice with every closer contact with his works; and with himself. As a fan of the eccentric forms, odd design and bold colour combinations, Hardy is
30 fashion
also known as the architect of shoemaking. Under the same name the late maestro Ferre will be remembered, but in the clothes domain. 3D effects, unseen geometrical forms, classic pumps or wedges with almost abnormal height and style inspired by Picasso`s cubism – that is just a small part of the techniques of our favorite shoe master. Pierre isn’t satisfied with making shoes just for the fine and sculpted female feet. Pairs for the gentlemen are present in his collections and of course - in different styles to fulfill the desires of the male gender. Bravery in this Frenchman`s design is enviable and remarkably provocative as much in his own label as in the accessories he makes for Balenciaga. “Pierre Hardy is not only a master couturier when it comes to shoes, he is a man of art, deeply connected with it and fascinated by its diversity”, said the ex editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris Carine Roitfeld. That`s why we can see his strange and futuristic shoes take their righteous place on the pages of all respected fashion magazines in the world. Pierre loves beauty, just like us, loves shoes, just like us and loves to make one of the most beautiful shoe creations ever. And that`s why we love him.
As a fan of the eccentric forms, odd design and bold colour combinations, Hardy is also known as the architect of shoemaking.
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United Kingdom of Balenciaga: innovation as inspiration
B
ack in 1918 the great maestro Cristobal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastian - Spain. Almost immediately after that he began to dress into his perfect design the Spanish royal family and aristocracy. Called by Christian Dior „Master of us all“, Balenciaga remains in history as the greatest designer of all time, bearer of the highest style and class in this field of art. His architectural shapes and innovative work style won him at the time the glory of extraordinarily sophisticated and precise designer who creates divine works. The most famous protégé in the circle of Cristobal Balenciaga remains the extremely talented and adored by Audrey Hepburn Hubert de Givenchy. It`s no surprise that these days the fashion house, which is now owned by an Italian luxury goods concern, is one of the most significant we would even say institutions legislators in the fashion industry. Headed by endlessly talented and adored young designer Nicolas Ghesquiere, Balenciaga made a spectacular leap into the future back in the past decade. In the team of Ghesquiere are present the names of shoes and accessories designer Pierre Hardy and Marie-Amelie Sauve - a longtime friend and collaborator of the house, and an editor for the French edition of Vogue. The team behind the label Balenciaga Paris continues the work of its creator - namely, to be one of the greatest provocateurs in fashion while still a symbol of class and elegance. Many fashion experts think of the work of Ghesquiere for Balenciaga as an experiment. As an attempt to reconsider the status quo for beautiful and ugly, modern and outdated, an attempt for reflection, for a deeper search on the fashion subject. It is designers like Ghesquiere that change our aesthetic criteria and make us think. They change our attitudes towards one or another definition of style, beauty and elegance by using innovative methods in which the main and fundamental element is the constant search for the lost, forgotten or yet undiscovered form of beauty. The truth is that modern fashion design has a desperate need for designers like Ghesquiere because one of the engines or the principles of fashion is actually constant change, the search for new perspectives and ways to achieve beauty and aesthetics. They say that Balenciaga was waiting for others to understand what he was doing instead of doing what they wanted. Absolutely analogous behavior is a thread in the work of Ghesquiere. The combination of DNA, bequeathed in the concept of fashion and style, which is fundamental for the fashion house; and boundless talent, sense and intuition of the young Nicolas are predicting that for many golden years Balenciaga will be that exclusive symbol of style, class and innovation.
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Balenciaga spring-summer 2006 campaign
Balenciaga spring-summer 2007 campaign
Balenciaga fall-winter 2004/05 campaign
Balenciaga fall-winter 2011/12 campaign
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Cellular Power Infusion - La Prairie in a rejuvenating action T
he absolute beauty innovation in September is the emergence of Cellular Power Infusion from La Prairie. The new revolution from the Swiss brand is revolutionary even to its own standards. Cellular Power Infusion opens the door to eternal desire for rejuvenation using the most modern ways and means. The 3-D system of the emulsion protecting the skin treats the key factors for its aging - loss of energy, impaired cell function and loss of skin resistance. All this is encased in a unique package for the course with Cellular Power Infusion in order to maintain the quality of the product. Cellular Power Infusion comes in a special box with four vials (1), each sufficient for a one-week period of application with two pipettes for the face and neck, morning and evening. With the rotation mechanism, the two partitions of Cellular Power Infusion mix (2) until a homogeneous blue-purple substance is acquired, whose activity and durability of the components remains the strongest in the first 7 to 10 days. The treatment lasts between 28 and 40 days - therefore the doses are divided into four retaining the freshness of the product parts. The period chosen by La Prairie for this refreshing course is not accidental – that is how long the average natural cycle of skin regeneration lasts. After the first treatment of the face and neck with the product, it can be repeated every three months and especially after periods of high stress, frequent travel by plane or harsh climate change.
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http://www.shoplaprairie.com/default.aspx
Innovations from the past: Dsquared2 Potion for man I
nspired by old perfume laboratories, the new Dsquared2 fragrance is actually a real sweet-smelling infusion. Hidden in authentically recreated „Pharmacy“ bottle of perfume, Potion for man is yet the most innovative idea for men accustomed to the standard ideas. Details like glass-engraved logo, the jocular „aging“ of the year Dsquared2, replaced with birth year of Dean and Dan - 1964th, the grooves, reminiscent of vintage bottles from the past and the whole concept are really a breath of fresh air for men`s dressing table. Along with the
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traditional presence of the aftershave, body lotion, hair and body wash (1) and two deodorant formulas – with (2) and without (3) alcohol, Dsquared2 also add pure perfume essence(4). The perfume oil is produced through a 5-stage technology and it saves the delicate aroma of Potion for man for all day with just a few drops. And for a full experience of innovation in the past Dsquared2 share the special recipe of aromatic woody amber scent of Potion for man, in case you want to mix it yourself like a deft pharmacist!
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Janet Morais:
I am in search of the perfect room
The creator of luxury furniture Koket in the most coquette interview in Pinks so far By Kristina Ivanova Photography: By Koket
J
anet, where does your passion for furniture cocktails in a New York City lounge. As the grace of the come from? pen took to the paper my desire to possess this chair and create more pieces with the same empowerment became My true passion and devotion lies in all things my mission. Koket is the ultimate expression of who I am exquisitely beautiful. Design is a subject with endless and the passion I have for life. fascination for me, precisely because it is a learning process that is never ending. It has the power to seduce, The brand is relatively new and yet it already managed captivate, entice and change lives. to reach a large audience. What do you think is the main reason for this success? I am always in search of the perfect curated room and for that the right pieces must be chosen. Love for product As Creative Director for Koket I am very in tune with what design happened with a simple sketch of a chair over my target audience’s lifestyle is, and a dead on instinct
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of trends to come and what people want. Our signature products focus on true, individual style so that each product is personalized and inspired for my customers. My mission with the brand is to design empowering statement pieces that give my audience a sense of entitlement. I am very involved in every aspect of the brand. Koket isn’t just a furniture brand, it is a lifestyle, a persona that represents a lot of things; luxury, beauty, compassion and admiration for craftsmanship. Where are your clients mostly concentrated? Is it in the US or Europe? And what are the differences in tastes between those large markets? As an Interior Designer by profession I do recognize a tremendous difference in the European and the US market, however our customer is not in any particular continent, we currently sell our products all over the world, I do have to say if there is a particular type of persona that defines our customer, I would have to say Koket is 100% a New York City Gal. My design clients gave me the motivation to move forward with the brand. They are my “Kokets�. What is your connection with Portugal? I have Portuguese heritage and true admiration for the design talent that is present in Portugal and most importantly - the craftsmanship that is still being practiced in Portugal. We are based in the US but all design and manufacturing takes place in Portugal. Your furniture is a unique mixture of styles; do you design everything by yourself? I am extremely involved with every aspect of the brand from concept to completion. I handpick
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every finish, every detail in our exhibits and every word written for the brand. Perfectionism and attention to detail is my forte and what our customer expects from me. All design concepts are conceived and sketched by me, then passed down to highly skilled individuals who strive to create the ultimate consumer experience, through fine jewelry design, exquisite detailing, and exceptional craftsmanship. „Mademoiselle Armoire“ is Janet`s favourite piece of furniture
Apart from the multicultural references in your work, there is another distinct pattern – the flora and the fauna. What is the story behind using butterflies and branches in furniture? I am highly influenced by the decorative arts, fashion, flora and fauna, forms and decorative techniques from glamorous eras past reappear in the most sophisticated versions of pieces in our collection. There is nothing more inspiring to me than the beauty and distinctiveness of nature. The design possibilities are endless. The butterfly is gracious in its movement, delicate in appearance, luxurious in its touch and a symbol of femininity and fantasy recognized by every woman. Do you have your own favorite piece from your collections? My absolute favorite piece is yet to come… But for now I would have to say the new “Mademoiselle Armoire”. It is designed with a profound admiration and influence of the French decorative arts.
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The voluptuous style of the butterfly is carried out with unrestrained exuberance of form, color and line. Femininity, sublime elegance and artistry combined with an element of outrageous make the Mademoiselle a whimsical gem. As a person creating products of luxury, what is the first objective in your mind when you do something new? Will it be the most empowering piece in any setting? Will my client fall in love with it? Will my audience drop everything for that piece? The same way a woman does for a pair of shoes. That is the love the brand striving for. Those all are all factors I take into account when I am developing any piece of furniture. Functionality is always at the top of my list but the art of design is taking a simple piece of furniture and transforming it into a jewel of a piece.
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You are currently based in NYC – the fashion capital of the US. Do you get inspired by the fast trends? And if not, what do you think is “here to stay” in furniture interior design? In my opinion fast trends come and go always appealing to the masses, Koket has a very specific look which is tailored to a very specific audience. The elements that inspire me are very personal; I may tailor them to appeal to a larger audience but never drifting from my initial concept. Style to me is in the way you do everything in life. It is an expression of details that are unexpected, individual and often acquired. I am always trying to mix pieces in an imaginative way. I feel that jewelry accents and detailing I put into our pieces are a form of art that should be complemented by a background of simple piece of furniture. Consumers today are very savvy when it comes to design, what we as designers must offer them is craftsmanship and value. As far as a trend to stay I would have to say anything with a hint of vintage. What comes next for Koket? We will continue to design visually impacting pieces but most importantly - be loyal to our mission. Koket’s mission is to create Empowering Statement Pieces but also to empower women. A percentage of all our proceeds will be given to women’s nonprofit organizations around the globe. Koket has now partnered with “Windows for Widows” based in New York; it is a nonprofit organization that provides funding to widows for urgent basic needs such as the procurement of essential medical assistance, medications, housing, and utilities such as gas, water, and lighting assists widows in Egypt. They also provide access to training, skills, and resources vital to facilitate their entry into the workforce and advancement within
Details from the flora and fauna decorate the furniture by Koket.
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their jobs and education for their children. Together, I as Koket’s Creative Director & Heather Ibrahim-Leathers, founder of ”Windows for widows” have designed a very meaningful piece that will empower those who purchase it and the thousands of women who will benefit from it. The piece is called “Camilia” - it is a magnificent chest made in mother of pearl with an intricately hand carved peacock in all its glory. 20% of all proceeds from this piece will go directly to “Windows for Widows”. The Piece will be unveiled in New York City this winter.
http://www.bykoket.com/index.html
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сърцето“ от Ма Уъни! Луксозното цветно издание ще ви помогне за приготвянето на над 60 автентични рецепти от Китай в няколко лесни стъпки! За поръчки: издателство „Ентропи 1“ тел. 02/852 02 48; 0888/33 65 19
http://genkogenkov.com
Genko Genkov – the harmony of madness By Angel Marintchev Photography: Pinks
His expressive paintings bond the 60`s generation with the genius of Vladimir Dimitrov-Maystora
Genko Genkov paints himself and his first wife Gertruda
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Genko Genkov is one of the most characteristic and outstanding masters of Bulgarian arts. He is famous for his dazzling, impressive paintings and rebellious spirit. Genkov was born in 1923 in Choba, a tiny village near Brezovo and spent his early years and youth in Bourgas, where he graduated secondary school for classical education. In 1948 he graduated the National Academy of Fine Arts with Professor Dechko Uzunov. His first one-man show was in 1965 and in 1973 in honour of his 50-th anniversary a retrospective exhibition of his works was organized. Since 1972 he was decorated with Cyril and Methodius State Order. His last exhibition was in 1993. Genko Genkov passed on the 3rd of March, 2006 and shortly after Sofia City Gallery of Fine Arts and “Genko Genkov” Foundation paid tribute to his genius by presenting paintings from the final period of his work (2002 – 2006) in “The Ultimate Genko Exhibition”.
Rare seascape by the painter
They called him crazy and he answered - in his typical style - that they „can’t even paint an ass”
H
e was claimed to have been mad, he was locked up in Kourilo Mental Institution – all this to prevent him from shouting “Heil Hitler” on the streets of Sofia in times of Party Congresses or upon arrival of fraternal communist delegations. He was stamped and trampled on by numerous known and unheard of arts managers and court artists. They tried to hide him but he kept appearing – just like that, straight on the street, clutching wet paintings under his arm. They tried to make a laughing-stock out of him and he responded with state-of-art landscapes, as if created in another world – somewhere distant, unknown, beyond. They called him crazy and he answered - in his typical style – that they “can’t even paint an ass”. They made programs for arts development and he made arts without reading their programs. When he turned 75 and they called him with congratulations, he asked: “Do I really have a birthday?”
And his second wife Veneta explained, that Genko didn’t have a calendar. “No time for such things from painting and working. No holidays, no parties – it is only work, work and work again. I don’t care about birthdays. I’m recovering from a heart attack and can’t even drink a glass of wine. Nerves ruined my heart. Poles, Czechs, Hungarians and Serbs – they all made it, they are all living better and we, Bulgarians, only sit, whine and do nothing!” God let Genko another 8 years after the heart attack and then summoned him, to paint for him. Up there this shabbily-dressed man with the looks of a beggar certainly swings his brush, leaving expressive marks to create works of a genius. In the distant 1957 two of his paintings appear in the USA and are bought by Edward Robinson. Then the actor of gangster roles said: “Looking at New York from up above and looking at this small painting… New York does seem smaller“. After a
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The expressive country landscapes by Genko are amongst the masterpieces of Bulgarian arts.
while one of the canvases is bought by Guggenheim Museum. Thus today Genko resides on the 5th Avenue. And one must say this is exactly where he belongs. He somehow seems more at home in a 5th Ave café with Cuban cigar hanging from his mouth rather than in collections of some idle Bulgarian nouveau riche with dubious pretentions. But that is another story. Bogomil Raynov, another outstanding Bulgarian master, writes about Genko: “At first glance everything in this man is mundane – his life conflicts and his repertoire. Prosaic images of country landscapes. There are hilly terrains, a couple of trees, rooftops, emerging behind naked branches or few leaves. From such trivial elements Genko creates his unusual world of images. For these are no mundane views but sacred revelations of fine soul, combining serene contemplativeness with intense dramatic tension. Because we do not merely face a banal registration of the obvious – it is the miracle of creation. And since we are talking about miracles, I would like to ask is it not a miracle that underneath this restless and at times furious in its reaction temperament are hidden
states of such perfect inner harmony?” The same inner harmony glows in the calm and at the same time unique Struma river landscapes of Vladimir Dimitrov – Maystora. One might say that Genko and Maystora are millions of years apart. The latter is quiet, bent and almost bashful in his activities whereas Genko is explosive, tumultuous, unbalanced and almost in the center of the scandal. As for their art genius they are like Siamese twins. Recently Andrey Nakov, a noted French art expert of Bulgarian origin claimed that Genko is the ‘bridge’ between the great works of Maystora and the next generation of Bulgarian artists in which Genko himself, together with the one and only Ivan Vukadinov, are the base. When we watch landscapes of Maystora and Genko we see the power of Bulgarian nature. Both Maystora and Genko create art. Probably the common between them is somewhere inside and is shared by them both. As Genko himself says “a man without soul can neither create, nor understand art. Acute sensitivity – this is what art is…”
„A man without soul can neither create, nor understand art“, says the artist.
Countryside by Genko. The paintings are provided by a private collection.
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