Ishrat Jahin, Prabhjote Kaur Fashion and Society 571-KNE-03-Group 2080
GROUP PROJECT - FASHION MAGAZINE
Presented to Ms. Jennifer Millen
LaSalle College March 25th,, 2019
L AD Y L IK E CANA DA
THE BIG GUIDE FOR SELECTIING EVENING DRESS AS PER THE DECADE S ta r r i n g C oc o Chane l and Chr is t ian D ior
EDITORIAL This magazine content had been written by Prabhjote Kaur and Ishrat Jahin. We had chosen this topic because we were both inspired by Hollywood glamour, and when you think about the red carpet you think of the glamorous evening dresses. We had an idea of modern evening dresses so we chose earlier eras to know about the designers, society and the type of dresses worn. We both made the decision together when the project was given. We had a lot of ideas which all related to Hollywood glamour, so this was the most fitting topic we could find. I, Ishrat had done the eras 1950s-60s and Prabhjote had done the eras 1920-1930s and putting the magazine together. While just simply researching about evening dresses we found events that had affected the fashion industry and the society. It was a fun way for us to learn about the era better.
CHANEL
CONTENT 1920s-1930s - The Roaring Twenties - Featuring Flapper Inf luence - Women in Great Depression - Featuring Bias Cut - Interview: Coco Chanel 1950s-1960s - The First Supper - Featuring 1950s - Marilyn Monroe found dead - Featuring 1960s - Interview: Christian Dior BIBLIOGRAPHY
1920s-1930s By Prabhjote Kaur
THE ROARING TWENTIES − With the remarkable progression in women’s liberation system, a majority of the women were suggesting the title, “I am a woman, hear me roar”. In the early twenties, women went to work to fill the workplaces left by men gone to war. However, some of them stayed even after World War I demanding equality in rights and wages. Of course, there were numerous struggles to achieve this. But guess what, even after such hardships, many countries across the globe granted women the right to vote, i.e. the USA, England, South Africa, Italy, Spain, Brazil, Sweden, and Ireland. These changes made women realize a sense of power. Among these changes, there were countless other ones revolving mostly around women’s freedom and rights. But what attracted them most was fashion, inspired
by art and the new inventions and styles influenced by Art Deco. If you are thinking what is Art Deco then it can be simply put as ‘Art that is decorative’. The themes included in this movement were similar to Art Noveau. However, Art Deco contains modern style and geometric lines appreciating man-made machines and other inventions. Art Deco was derived from Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes held in Paris 1925. A movement that inspired many designers and other groups to follow and implement geometric styles to the garments. Several rectangular silhouettes with geometric detailing were encouraged in the collections.
“I am a woman, hear me roar”.
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FLAPPER INFLUENCE
The 1920s was mostly about flapper fashion. Let me help you understand, why it is called Flapper Chic. Basically, a group of women decided to be different. They favored androgynous looks, short hair and comfortable clothing. This allowed them to feel powerful referring to masculine styles as men have power through the period. They felt freer with straight silhouettes and flat busts. This group was against the concept of curvaceous dresses women wore in the previous era. The women wanted to do things on their own without requiring men’s assistance. The short skirts and no corset for more ease were what they adapted as some women got their driving licenses, began consumption of alcohol and cigarette in public. They had nothing to do with the fashion styles but various designers grasped that look and continued the idea of straight looks with high skirts that were more comfortable, dropped
These young women came to be known as Flappers, “in reference to a young bird flapping its wings while learning to fly�. Just like a bird flapped its wings to fly the coop, symbolically speaking, to escape convention and oppressive tradition. waistlines usually knee length. The designs were also influenced by the Art Deco movement in the 1920s that involved modern, metallic, geometric styles and detailing. The silhouette was tubular, short hemlines, streamlined, boyish looks and rolled down stockings. The costume designers were encouraging this style on actors and they promoted the straight luxurious evening gowns as most civilians followed Hollywood style. Models and actors were often seen in ankle length evening gowns with metallic details, style lines, bob hairstyle, halter necklines, backless neck with embellishments. This is where Coco Chanel’s little black dress was raved by the women, simple yet comfortable. In 1925-28, the famous dance dress, an evening gown, designed by Reville and Rossiter from London
consisted of all the elements of the flapper dress in the Jazz era. The evening dress can be described by its delicate beading (glass, rhinestones and silver studs), use of the metallic and geometric style of the machine era with the straight rectangular shape and lowered waist and, the fringes used at the bottom of the skirt to represent feathers.
WOMEN IN GREAT DEPRESSSION In the 1930s, the great depression affected the population in the U.S. With the stock market crashing, many companies looked for options that civilians could afford or try to afford. Women, who finally started to work and took one step forward to equality, had to struggle with new issues. They had to deal with the challenge of being stuck at the same level again and fighting for the job. The companies were suggesting to simply fire the women and hire men as soon as possible so there won’t be any depression anymore. This affected their clothing decisions too. Many textile manufacturers had to pursue affordable alternatives, for instance, nylon instead of rayon and variations of rayon for silk fabrics. Due to the immense changes, the clothing style became simpler and subtle. People preferred to buy paper patterns to make hand made garments and adjusting the patterns according to personal interests. Women started hand-knitting too. Designers such as Coco Chanel, Vionnet, Maggy Rouff, Callot still managed to keep the luxurious deceptive look of the ankle length evening dresses for winter cruises on the De-luxe oceanliners.
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BIAS CUT
The great depression affected the quality and consumption of most products. The companies still made a profit by selling less expensive products. Due to the hardships, people kept the looks simpler by day and went for parties in the evenings or night in figure-hugging gowns. As it was about escaping from reality. The cinema industry was rising too, selling the idea of luxury and culture of escapism. Hollywood movies were presented in such a way that one could get away from their personal troubles and live the life they had. Designers like Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jessie Franklin Turner would design bias cut evening dresses for movie stars from where the civilians would follow. So what is a Bias cut dress if you ask, usually a pattern is cut either lengthwise or widthwise. With bias cut, the patterns are placed diagonally on the fabric and it gives a stretch to the fabric,
when worn it accentuates the feminine curves with the flowy appearance. This cut was in tried by many makers but Madeleine Vionnet perfected the Bias cut for which she gets credited. The evening dresses went from knee length to ankle length again in the 1930s, with a romantic look. This cut would take more fabric than the usual amount. The 1930s was also about surrealism, the deceiving looks of the movie stars, their clothing, and accessories. Certain draping or gathering designs or meticulous cuts would appear quite simple but would require several hours of work. In this deceptive surreal population, there were also people who would still struggle to afford bias-cut styles as only rich people could afford that. Women would dupe the bias cut by cutting the fabric into pieces and achieve that luxurious evening dress resemblance. The style would be copied over sleeves of the dress and necklines, for instance, bias collar style, back V neck (instead of front), butterfly sleeves, and halter necks.
INTERVIEW WITH COCO CHANEL Good evening, Miss Coco, it’s not hidden that you are the most influential person these days, how does it feel? Thank you, that’s flattering and I believe in the change and women doesn’t have to feel limited to her beauty, it can be explored and I’m always up for that challenge. The collection you created is already copied and imitated around the world, do you think it’s fair to have this and watch everyone wearing a Chanel Little black dress imitation? Surprisingly, I am delighted because it was my initial goal to create a signature look people would recognize Coco Chanel for. If it is not imitated then what’s the purpose of fashion. What’s the point in hiding such creations and not share with the world. Haute Couturiers are afraid of this, of being imitated by makers across the globe but even though it is not the original dress, customers still observe it as Chanel’s Little Black dress. You have designed various collections, what would you say is your favorite evening dress and what accessories would you prefer for the night? I prefer simple, elegant staples. I believe in comfortable clothing that is also stylish. My recommendations would be a balanced combination of black and white with pearls set. I have the perfect wardrobe staple that is the Little black dress that could never go wrong no matter wherever life takes you.
1950s-1960s By Ishrat Jahin
THE FIRST SUPPER
This February we see a big change! We see the launch of the first ever independent credit card company. You might ask what is a credit card? A credit card is a cardboard payment card issued to users to enable the cardholder to pay a merchant for goods and services based on the cardholder’s promise to the card issuer to pay them for the amounts plus the other agreed charges. This amazing invention is brought to us by Frank X. McNamara, Ralph Schneider, Matty Simmons, and
Alfred Bloomingdale. They are calling their association Diner’s Club. The card is made for travel and entertainment purposes only. The invention began with an embarrassing story. When the cofounder of Diner’s club McNamara forgot his wallet while dining at the Majors Cabin Grill restaurant in New York City in 1949. Later on, his wife came and paid. McNamara, later on, though how can he avoid embarrassment later
in the future. An idea clicked in his head, he thought of a multipurpose charge card which could make life easier and less hectic. McNamara discussed the idea with the restaurant owner at the table and then later on and the following day with his lawyer Ralph Schneider and friend Alfred Bloomingdale. And then this February McNamara returned to the same restaurant and had paid his bill with using a cardboard charge card and a signature. They called this meal as “The First Supper.” Now you can purchase a Diner’s club card as well and avoid embarrassment and pay for your luxury needs!
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1950s After world war II fashion changed a lot as new techniques and fabrics were introduced and mass production took place. So, it made it easy for women of lower incomes to attain designer copies. At the beginning of 1950s Dior had launched the “verticle line” also known as the sheath dress which had a long and narrow silhouette, it was generally made with 3 pieces with the bodice, skirt, and jacket. During 1951 the tiny waistline became very popular. Doir especially made it popular the most. Style of dresses that was very popular during this era was tweed dresses, anklelength evening dresses, and small daytime hats with jewels and fur trimming. colors were used the most were charcoal grey, green tones, blue tones, purple, and orchid pink. 1952 saw a huge change from
a high waistline it became to no waistline. Dior and Balenciaga were leading fashion trends. Dior and Balenciaga had two completely different styles. Dior had high-waisted garments with tight shapes from neck to hips, which flared smoothly over the knee. However, Balenciaga had a slag waisted dresses and middle length skirt. The choices of personal fashion styles represented the freedom of women’s lives after World War II ended. Around 1955 the styles changed and were very much inspired by the East especially from Japan and India. “The oriental look” from Givenchy led the way. In this era even though women preferred wearing casual dresses they still would love to wear long evening dresses rather short basic dresses. Evening dresses were made with light wool chiffon or thick wool with gold
jewels. Because people wanted to feel and look was reflected in the fabric; manufacturers made wool or tweed with mink, cashmere, and angora. Because of the influences from Asian fashion, a variety of tones of red, emerald green, yellow and sapphire blue were popular. Around 1957 Coco Chanel became popular. She introduced She introduced the legendary two-piece suit which had a boxy fit, open button jacket with blouse inside, pockets decorations, cuffs made with pearls, and H-line skirt. Not only did the suit become the iconic style, but also pullovers fabricated with jerseys and tweeds and lace evening dresses became the most elegant look of women. Fashion industry saw the biggest loss when Christian Dior passed away, and Saint Laurent replaced him. The 1950s saw many changes and every year there were different shapes and styles of dresses or women coming out according to the trend
MARILYN MONROE FOUND DEAD
The whole world is shocked and is in utter disbelief when the Hollywood icon was found dead of a barbiturate overdose early in the morning today. She was found in her 12305 Fifth Helena Drive home in Los Angeles, California home. The actress was found nude, with her face lying down on the bed with one of her hand holding on to the receiver. Her psychiatrist broke into her room around 3:30 a.m. She was estimated dead for at least six to eight hours After her body was found, she was taken to the County Morgue, where Coroner Theodore J. Curphey examined her and he could say with confidence that the death occurred due to some drug overdose. He suggested that a “suicide team” will investigate if she actually took her life or not. She was Hollywood’s sex symbol. She made you love your curves, made you stand on top of a pothole with your dress flying a sexy thing and definitely proved that blonde’s do have more fun! She will be missed dearly, hope you rest in peace.
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1960s In the 1960s it was all about being classy and women preferred shorter dresses over long ball gowns just as 50s pink was cast out for metallic gold, silver, and black. For formal occasions, sleeveless empire waist dress with long column skirt was a must. The oneshoulder dress rose to popularity while the knee length swing dress in lace continued to be a 60s formal fashion tradition. More than dresses this era saw an evaluation in skirts which became super popular. Women were becoming more independent and were looking for more faster and easier way to dress, so hence popularity in ready to wear clothing was seen. The iconic mini skirt was introduced this year women sported long hair, slightly teased, of course, and childish-looking clothing they were called the “dolly girls” Around the late 60s, you could see a change in the culture, the hippie culture began to appear with a very laid back style and bohemian influence which affected the evening wear. The clothing was very flowy and airy. During the end of the 60s, they also saw a feminist influence, the fashion industry got a backlash for showing only feminine style for women so hence, they started wearing masculine clothing such as jeans, work boots or berets. Black feminists often wore afros in reaction to the hair straighteners associated with middle-class white women. Around 1968, protest protestors symbolically threw a number of feminine fashion-related products into a “Freedom Trash Can,” including false eyelashes, high-heeled shoes, curlers, hairspray, makeup, girdles, corsets, and bras] which they termed “instruments of female torture”.
INTERVIEW WITH CHRISTIAN DIOR Christian Dior is household name now and is the one leading the fashion world in the western world. Today, we had the honor of interviewing him. He came to the interview wearing a white, white shirt, and a red pocket square. A very simple yet classy style that is how we could describe his appearance today. Christian Dior was born on January 21st, 1905. Dior comes from a wealthy French background, his family thought he would be a diplomat, however, he was very different from his family, he was artistic. We had asked him what was his first job and his reply was; I used simplicity through which elegance to sell my fashion sketches outside must come. of my house for 10 cents each. We asked him why he had refused Dior, later on, explained who Marcel Boussac’s invite to design for actually Inspired him and was Phillippe et Gatson. He said, Because his mentor. Robert Piguet who I wanted to start fresh, I wanted to had given him the opportunity to do something of my own, which I design for him, Dior said, Robert eventually did as you can see. Piguet taught me the virtues of
Our next question was what does he
get inspired from mostly, his reply was Flower!. He happily added to the answer I have created flower women. We also talked about his relationship with Coco Chanel who had previously, hadn’t talked so well about him and his designs. He said calmly My designs are mine and hers is her if it is not to her liking she doesn’t have to see or wear it. I think I have a good idea or women and women’s body. We ended the interview with a quote he said which goes like Happiness is the secret to all the beauty, there is no beauty without happiness. We thank Mr. Dior for taking the time and giving us the pleasure of interviewing him.
BIBLIOGRAPHY https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/a-century-of-dazzling-party-dresses/ http://artdecostyle.ca/art-deco-style-blog/art-deco-history https://www.britannica.com/art/Art-Deco
https://www.burdastyle.com/blog/madeleine-vionnet-and-the-bias-cut https://www.thevintagenews.com/2016/12/18/fashion-during-the-great-depression-the-impact-of-thepolitical-upheaval-on-the-fashion-industry/ http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/30sclothes.html https://medium.com/the-thirties/employment-of-women-in-the-1930s-5998fd255f5 https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/1920s-fashion-icons-who-defined-twenties-style-92566 https://glamourdaze.com/history-of-womens-fashion/1920-to-1929 https://m.dailyhunt.in/news/india/english/youngisthan-epaper-youngeng/rise+of+women+during+great+de pression-newsid-94285158 http://coppercartcafe.com/1920s-art-deco-posters/1920s-art-deco-posters-art-deco-posters-for-christmasfun-for-christmas/ https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g9996928/50s-fashion-trends/?slide=37 https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2016/dec/09/house-of-dior-70-years-of-christian-diorcollections-in-pictures BOOKS- Smithsonian Fashion - The definitive history of costume and style - Vogue Vol.167 Nos. 6-9 1977 - Marco Tosa Evening dresses 1900-1940 - Linda Watson 20th Century Fashion