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Ask a Sommelier
What’s the divot in the bottom of the bottle for?
—Jeff Clark
Back when wine was bottled in woodfired glass, the original role of the “punt” on the bottom of the bottle was to increase its strength. The punt causes more surface area and therefore makes the glass stronger. If the contents are under pressure (like bubbles), more surface area means less chance of explosion.
With the introduction of coal-fired glass (much stronger than the previous woodfired glass), there was no more need for the punt to strengthen the glass, but removing it made the bottle look smaller—and no one wants to feel like they are getting less wine! Punts were kept, and now you can often see that the most expensive bottles have the biggest punt, making the size and heft of the bottle more about marketing than it is about keeping its contents safe.
—Mike Muirhead
How are winemakers guarding against the effects of climate change?
—Claudine Gervais
Many winemakers and scientists are studying this question. Winegrowers are coping with hotter summers (leading to sunburn and drought); warmer and wetter winters (leading to pest and disease pressures); and the violence of freak frosts, hail, storms, floods and forest fires—all signs of changing climates and none of it good for grape growing. We are seeing reports of harvests weeks earlier than historically, which is not necessarily a good thing because ripening does not follow linear patterns. There are estimates that we could lose half our current global vineyard area with a 2°C warming, and things look even worse beyond that.
Winegrowers and winemakers are exploring a number of longer-term strategies. Among these are the possibility of seeing heat-loving varieties move into places that have previously been too cool or introducing varieties that are more heat resistant. Bordeaux, for example, has recently approved several additional varieties for their vineyards and wines. For close to a century, Bordeaux varieties for red wines were limited to a half dozen approved varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. In January 2021, that list was expanded to allow small quantities of Marselan, Touriga Nacional, Castets, and Arinarnoa— varieties that love heat, are relatively disease resistant, or both. The list for whites was also increased for the same reasons.
These changes also mean that some coolclimate varieties will have fewer possible homes or will need to be on the move as well. Winegrowers are indeed looking further from the equator for suitable growing conditions. English sparkling wine is an example. We are seeing an everincreasing number of vineyards in the south of England specializing in the styles of Traditional Method bubbles that have made Champagne famous (you should try our Ashling Park Cuvée and Rosé!). In other places, the strategies include moving up to cooler hillsides, moving vineyards to face away from the sun (to cooler, less sunny slopes that were formerly considered lower quality) and embracing growing techniques that see greater biodiversity in the vineyard to strengthen vineyard health generally.
All in all, it is a tough time—and time for all of us to pay attention. Thanks for asking!
—Sylvia Jansen
How can I tell if a wine has spoiled?
—Celeste Manko
When trying to decide if your wine is spoiled, simply use the “pleasure principle.” Wine should always be a pleasurable experience. All the senses we use when we are drinking/tasting wine are the same ones that will tip us off if a wine is spoiled.
Seeing is believing: Is your young, fresh white clear and bright? That’s a good sign. Is it cloudy, yellowing, or brownish? That is telling you it has seen better days. Is your big bold red ruddy and brown? Good chance it has gone to Funky Town.
One caveat here: some winemakers choose to produce their wines using an unfiltered process. This is a notable practice in natural wines, which results in an intentionally cloudy wine. These winemakers believe that too much filtering can strip a wine of its flavours and aromas and that unfiltered wines can have a deeper texture and mouthfeel. (One of our wine experts would be happy to walk you through the wild and wonderful experience of tasting natural wines!)
The nose knows: When the aromas of your wine do not reflect fruit qualities but are showing aromas like wet dog, vinegar, nail polish remover, it is time to part with that bottle.
Palate proof: If you don’t believe what you have seen and smelled, go ahead and give it a taste. Are you struggling to find the fruit notes? Is there a very aggressive acidity? Does it just plain taste unpleasant?
Trust your senses: they are telling you all you need to know.
—Saralyn Mehta
QUESTIONS FOR OUR SOMMELIERS? TEXT (9 AM-9 PM): 204.400.0499 @JONESWINEMERCHANTS @JONESWINEMERCH1
o call a place “home” is more than naming an address: home is an identity and a commitment. When Pedro Pavone-Voglino emigrated from Italy to Chile in the early 20th century, he promised himself he would build his new home on the cornerstones of respect, honesty, community and responsibility. He held to these commitments when he and his son Félix later acquired the land “chacra Santa Ema” in the heart of the Maipo Valley to build a life in wine.
The 65-year journey has taken the family winery into its third and fourth generations. Today, Pedro’s grandchildren are active in vineyard, winery and export management: Rossana Pavone oversees finance; Félix, the vineyards and production. The fourth generation—Sebastián, Felipe and Guillermo—are actively involved in domestic sales and exports.
To support a diverse range of quality wines, the family has expanded vineyard holdings. Anchored by their historic properties in the Isla de Maipo sub-region, they have acquired select vineyard properties in cool Leyda near the Pacific coastline, in highly regarded Pirque, at the edge of the Andes, and further south in the Cachapoal Valley in Peumo.
For Santa Ema, the unwavering pursuit of quality wine has also meant a pursuit of respect for their team, land and community. “The production of wine is done through people,” says Andrés, “so the team is like an extension of the family itself.” Like other members of the winemaking team, for example, Andrés has been with Santa Ema for more than two decades. “The idea is for everyone to feel part of the family. We are a super committed team, and it is a wonderful working environment with solid pillars.”
In the winery, they work toward respectful, low-intervention practices and are in the process of gaining certification for vegan and gluten-free production. “We want to make our wines under an atmosphere of balance, where both land and workers are respected”, comments Andrés. “We work toward biodiversity in the vineyards and have 100% sustainable viticulture, with a view to eventually bring it to organic production.”
The family commitment to community is long term. Santa Ema actively supports local education, school renovations and libraries. They have also worked toward Santa Ema 30K, a project to showcase small business goods made within a 30-km range of the winery. While the ravages of the
pandemic have meant a slowdown in tourism traffic, the family is confident this commitment will see a long-term benefit for their many small-business neighbours.
It has been a 65-year drive to distinguish Santa Ema with a seal of quality and consistency, says Andrés. With the firm anchors of home, community, great terroirs, and a great team, clearly the path to the future is set. Santa Ema showcases the best of their terroirs, their approach and their people in the wine portfolio. The Select Terroir Reserva range does just what it promises: offer up the most expressive fruit from the best locations. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé wines are drawn from fruit grown in the warmth of Isla de Maipo, where the climate is moderated by the cooling winds from both the Andes and the coast. The Select Terroir Carménère originates in Peumo, Cachapoal, where the cool nights and warm days produce a wine with great balance and structure.
The Gran Reserva line, led by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, authentically reflect the concentration, quality and judicious oak ageing of particular parcels and lots. The wines of Santa Ema Amplus (Latin for “distinguished”) offer rare glimpses of some of the best terroirs of the line.
At the pinnacle of the collection are Catalina and Rivalta, drawn from the very best 20 barrels of red produced each year. The amazing Bordeaux blend Catalina pays tribute to the mother of the third generation, presented with a beautifully elegant cloth label. Rivalta is named in tribute to the Piedmontese Italian origin of the founder. From the Maipo Alto, skirting the edges of the Andes, Rivalta offers an unforgettable experience of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Carignan and Syrah.
