The Cellar Door Issue 41: Bordeaux and Blends by Poise Publications

the

Cellar Door Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants

Issue 41 February 2022 – May 2022

Bordeaux

Let our family move yours. Garry Parkes Garry was born and raised in Mission, B.C., a small town in the Fraser Valley. He grew up on a dairy farm, so he learned early in life that nothing meaningful happens without applying some hard work. Garry graduated from the University of British Columbia with a Bachelor of Science in Agriculture, Department of Food Science. After graduation, he took a job in the food processing industry with Labatt Brewing Company and was transferred to Winnipeg. He started his career in Real Estate in 1977. Garry worked independently until 1997, when Becky joined him in the business. The Parkes Team was established when their son Brad joined them. Without adding up the number of years he has spent in real estate, Garry has pretty much seen it all. His experience proves that balance, treating clients well, and just plain hard work is the right combination for success.

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contents Features

34 Blending Bordeaux Sylvia Jansen and Mike Muirhead introduce us to the influence of the Bordeaux blend—in France and around the world.

42 Quiz: What Bordeaux Grape Are You? 46 5 Questions for Christophe Reboul Salze Gary Hewitt takes five with a man who knows his way around Bordeaux.

50 One-Pot Comfort Tina Jones invites us to her table to share our favourite winter comfort food and wine pairings.

JonesWines.com 7

contents Columns 12 A Message from Tina Jones

14 Ask a Sommelier 16 Jones & Company 20 Behind the Label Château Méaume

22 Trending My Wine Podcast Playlist

26 Shop Local, Globally Sum of the Parts

28 Profile Mark Turner, Amsterdam Tea Room

30 Gary’s Corner Engineering Bordeaux

58 Wine & Drinks College Manitoba 60 Culinary Partners Winter Comfort Food

8 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

62 Sidebar All Players in the Scene

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Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Ricki-Lee Podolecki Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Contributors Todd Antonation, Pascale Bouchard, Josie Duthoit, Thomas Fricke, Erika Fridrik, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Abby Ilchena, Tina Jones, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Mitchell Langdon, Alyona Lyubytska, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Matthew Nicolau, Manon Paquin, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki- Lee Podolecki, Anton Sikorsky, Emanuel Soares, Jenny VanDenDriessche, Dylan Watkins, Leah Watkins, Rick Watkins Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

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In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463 JonesWines.com | @joneswinemerchants © 2022 Poise Publications Inc.

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a message from tina jones It was a few years ago, but in my memory, it could be yesterday. I had the incredible experience of being part of a blending session with the illustrious Michel Rolland. Imagine a table with multiple bottles drawn from the barrels that aged different grape varieties and different vineyard plots. At one moment, Michel asked for a few millilitres more from one of the bottles. When that small amount was added, it was like magic. Suddenly the aromatics lifted, the wine tasted completely different and beautiful, and the finish went on and on. It was my first real introduction to the artful skill of the blend and a striking example of how the whole can be greater than the sum of the parts. Michel Rolland’s name is well known as a Bordeaux winemaker who has consulted around the world. With the knowledge of a scientist and the touch of an artist, Michel’s incredible skill exemplifies what Bordeaux wines mean to me: wines artfully blended to make something beautiful from a palette of choices. It was the art of the blend that first drew us to Bordeaux for this issue of The Cellar Door. Here is a wine region that has blended varieties into special wines for a very long time. Mike Muirhead and Sylvia Jansen untangle the components of the region’s blends—and we reach around the world for the inspiration that Bordeaux has given us. Gary Hewitt digs into one of Bordeaux’s distinctive features: its deep gravel beds. We have taken some artful turns—Ricki-Lee Podolecki gives us her wisdom on podcasts, and Sylvia Jansen takes us to the current state of restaurants. I invited Mike Muirhead and Manon Paquin to my table to share some one-pot comfort food and incredible wine pairings. We have a fascinating issue in store for great reading. We hope you enjoy every part! Finally, I have to say that blending is not just for top winemakers: if you ever want to try your own hand at blending, talk to one of our wine experts. They can assemble a tasting for you and your friends to let you try your hand at the skill of wine blending! It is both more fun and more challenging than you might think!

Tina Jones

12 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

ask a sommelier I have a few friends who drink white wine, and when I ask what they want to drink, I hear a lot of “I’ll have anything but Chardonnay.” Why does everyone hate Chardonnay?

and this is for wines marketed as “dry.” Alternately, some companies advertise their no-adjustment wines as “0 sugar” to appeal to low-sugar diets.

—J. Harps

Any wine fermentation leaves a minuscule amount of unfermentable sugars, so even a completely dry wine (including “0 sugar” wines) can have 1 to 2 grams per litre. If you want a dry, pretty much zero-sugar wine, just ask us! We have many options on the shelves. For a very affordable, delicious, (real) dry red from Spain, try Telmo Rodriguez 2019 Monastrell Al Muvedre ($16.99).

Chardonnay is so misunderstood! There’s a preconceived notion that all Chardonnay is full bodied and overly buttery, with a ton of oak, when this is far from the truth. The grape is somewhat of a shapeshifter depending on where it grows and what the winemaker decides to do with it. Chardonnay can be made into a variety of styles. Oak is a key trigger for many people when it comes to Chardonnay, but oak is not the enemy! It depends on how the oak is used: wellintegrated oak can add fantastic character to the wine. Just ask white Burgundy! Most people have yet to discover the Chardonnay that makes them love this versatile grape. I’m a firm believer that there is a Chardonnay style for everyone: exploring Chardonnay can lead you to some of the world’s finest wines.

I bought the Weingut Werlitsch Glück Sauvignon Blanc a few months back. What is the purpose of the clay bottle? Being a potter, I have a hard time throwing it out. It is such a nice container! Can it be used again to temporarily store another white wine, assuming that it will store the wine in a more insulated fashion? —Paul Loewen

If you love fresh, bright whites, try a Chablis, like Domaine des Malandes 2019 Chablis ($48.99). If you like a tropical wine, try a warmclimate Chardonnay such as Bleeding Heart 2020 Chardonnay (Australia, $18.99). Love bubbles? Well, you might be surprised to find out that Chardonnay is a main variety in Champagne and most sparkling wines! Try Laherte Frères nv Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Champagne, France ($76.99). —Ricki-Lee Podolecki I recently saw wine advertising “0 sugar.” What’s up with that? —Tom Penner Fermentation transforms grape sugar into alcohol; therefore, a dry wine should have 0 sugar, right? Well, not always. Sugar can remain because the wine might be a sweet style, using concentrated sugars in harvested grapes (think Icewine, Sauternes, and medium-sweetness wines). Sugar can also be added to the wine for a smoother, richer taste. This adjustment can be plain or concentrated grape must, and it is more common than we might expect: examples include many commercially popular red wines. Some of these contain 15 grams of sugar per litre—imagine an almost-full tablespoon of sugar stirred into your bottle— 14 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

—Sylvia Jansen

The bottle you are talking about comes from a biodynamic winery in Styria, Austria. The packaging certainly is beautiful. The clay bottle is a nod to ancient amphoras used for ageing and shipping in ancient wine regions in Greece and Portugal. The vessels are still used in traditional winemaking in Georgia (where they call them qvevri). This ancient method is also seeing a bit of an experimental revival in the United States and Australia. Storing wine in porous clay allows some oxygen to enter the vessel (not as much as oak does, but more than the oxygen-free environment of stainless steel). However, clay offers none of the flavour that oak can impart: it is flavour-neutral like stainless steel. The bottle is glazed, so you can store wine for a short period or use it for serving. I wouldn’t age wine in it, because it would be hard to seal. If you want to decant, it would be better to use a wider-mouthed vessel made for that. The winery website suggests the bottles make a lovely vase after use, and I would follow their advice. —Saralyn Mehta

QUESTIONS FOR OUR SOMMELIERS? TEXT (9 AM-9 PM): 204.400.0499 @JONESWINEMERCHANTS

blend:

/ blend / verb & noun a) a beautiful combination b) to mix various sorts of grapes in order to obtain a particular flavour

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Pinotage/Shiraz $12.99

SMV Shiraz/ Mourvedre/Viognier $17.99

White Blend Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay $18.99

Cabernet Sauvignon/ Shiraz Estate Blend $24.99

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Featured wines available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants.

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Saralyn Mehta: Mullineaux 2020 Kloof Street Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa ($29.99)

Emanuel Soares: Cabrillo 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, United States ($45.99)

Todd Antonation: El Grillo y la Luna 2020 12 Lunas Garnacha Somontano, Spain ($26.99)

Abby Ilchena: Kaltern 2020 K Bianco Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($21.99)

Dylan Watkins: The Juice Asylum 2019 Maggie May Rosso Tuscany, Italy ($31.99)

Mitchell Langdon: Jax 2018 Y3 Taureau Red Blend Napa Valley, United States ($44.99)

Alyona Lyubytska: Paololeo 2018 Negramante Negroamaro Salento, Italy ($23.99)

Matthew Nicolau: Civettina 2019 Rosso Sicily, Italy ($19.99)

Jill Kwiatkoski: Pinot-Chevauchet nv Joyeuse Brut Champagne, France ($69.99)

16 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

what we’re drinking

Pascale Bouchard: Giusti 2020 Rosalia Prosecco Rosé Veneto, Italy ($21.99)

Rick Watkins: Les Vins De Vienne 2018 Syrah Saint-Joseph, France ($45.99)

Leah Watkins: Silverthorn Wines nv The Genie Rosé Brut Western Cape, South Africa ($39.99)

Kristin Froese: Tablas Creek Vineyard 2018 Patelin de Tablas Paso Robles, USA ($49.99)

Ricki-Lee Podolecki: Terra Constantino 2019 Rosso de Aetna Sicily, Italy ($34.99)

Jenny VanDenDriessche: Jan Harmsgat 2017 Pinotage Robertson, South Africa ($26.99)

Devon Gillingham: Zucchi S.S. nv Lambrusco dell’Emilia-Romagna, Italy ($18.99)

Erika Fridrik: Aizpurua 2019 Hondarrabi Zuri Txakolina, Spain ($19.99)

Mike Muirhead: House of Smith 2019 CS Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, USA ($35.99)

JonesWines.com 17

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Château Méaume By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS) The challenge of finding wine gems to import to a little-known city like ours isn’t easy, but we take it on wholeheartedly. We are always seeking the very best wines made by hands that we have shaken and people we have met. When it comes to our fellow Canadians—and even better, our fellow Manitobans—we want to cheer them on the very loudest. So when we met Sandra (from The Pas) and Mark (from England), who happen to make a marvellous little Bordeaux blend in France—well, we were thrilled to introduce them to our customers. Mark and Sandra Johnson-Hill’s lives began on opposites sides of the world, but their wine story started in 2018 in Bordeaux at a family winery called Château Méaume. The 100-acre estate on the right bank in Bordeaux was founded many centuries ago—but in 2017, it belonged to Mark’s aunt and uncle, Alan and Sue Johnson-Hill. After 40 years as proprietors, when their daughters decided not to take over the château, they were excited to learn that Mark and Sandra were interested in keeping the vineyard in the family. “Alan and Sue were delighted because it now meant that the family legacy would continue,” explains Sandra. “And as Sue said: when we leave and drive down the long driveway, we will look back and see Mark and Sandra continuing the hard work we have done for the vineyard we love.” Although neither Sandra nor Mark had worked in the wine industry, they both knew that farm life and viticulture would bring hard work. Sandra grew up near The Pas, Manitoba, on the largest cattle and grain farm in Canada. Her parents were hard-working and determined Austro-Hungarian immigrants who passed their work ethic on to their daughter. For his part, Mark worked on a farm in Zimbabwe that had a profound impact on him. “Mark made it his dream to one day own his own farm and was determined to own a vineyard,” recounts Sandra. “[Farm life] means working when it suits nature and not when it suits you. All could be won or lost based on making the right decisions at the right time with the right weather conditions.” With the support of their experienced vineyard team, the mentorship of Mark’s uncle and aunt, and a lot of wine-related reading, Sandra explains, “we found that everything is possible if you work hard enough. What I learned from my family, and in particular, my legend of a

20 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Sandra and Mark Johnson-Hill tasting the Château Méaume 2019 Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge ($21.99)

father, is to work hard and to stay humble.” In addition to hard work, experience, and mentorship, both Sandra and Mark have taken the French Wine Scholar program, with Sandra achieving the highest honours in the exam. Mark and Sandra consider Château Méaume both their family home and a legacy to pass down to their children, and they treat it with great care. They personally tend to their vineyards of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. In keeping with family tradition, only grapes grown on the estate are used to produce their marvellous bottles of Château Méaume Bordeaux Supérieur. They produce only one red wine, which is released 2 years after the vintage. The current vintage is smooth and elegant, yet vibrant and slightly fruity, with soft tannins, gorgeous notes of deep black plums, pipe tobacco, herbs, leather, black licorice, and a hint of flint that dances on your palate. Every Manitoban should have a bottle of Château Méaume Bordeaux Supérieur in their cellar, on the dinner table, to share with friends, and to toast Mark and Sandra for carrying on the family tradition of creating this delicious (and affordable!) Bordeaux blend for the world to enjoy.

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TRENDING

My Wine Podcast Playlist By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET

When I decided in 2015 to begin my journey in wine, my first step was enrolling in a WSET class with Jones & Company. Juggling the life of a full-time student while managing a restaurant, I could not waste a second while awake. This is where I discovered the wonderful world of podcasts. Listening to a wine podcast while closing up the restaurant or driving to school became an essential study tool that I used from WSET 2 through my diploma— and continue to use today. Likewise, podcasts have been instrumental for Wine & Drinks College Manitoba students to keep the wine conversation and education flowing to stay sharp for classes in 2022.

Wine Playlist Podcasts vary in education level and content, so we have chosen a selection of podcasts, from “fun for everyone” to “serious wine scholar”—along with a wine pairing to enjoy while you listen. Podcasts are the perfect supplement for those of us who love to continually learn about the vast wine world—but nothing beats being in the classroom with you! Wine & Drinks College Manitoba is offering WSET classes in 2022/2023. See page 58 for details.

22 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Wine Skool’D/VineP air:

Keith Beavers is an energetic fan of Star Wars and ever ything beverage based. His charism atic deliver y makes this podcast a favourite for walks or cleaning th e house. • LEVEL: Fun for ev er yone • FIND HERE: Spot ify, Apple Podcasts, or Vinep air.com • PAIR WITH: This podcast is funky and fun, so I like sip ping on some natural wines that complement Keith’s st yle. TRY: Da vide Xodo 2018 Sessantaquattro Rosso Veneto, Italy ($23.99 )

Matthew’s World of Wine and Drink:

By far one of my favo urites, this podcast was a key to passing my WSE T Level 3 and dip loma. Matthew offers details on ev er y region you must know to be su ccessful in the WSE T programs, an d its average run time of 15 minutes makes it perfect for car rides or quick study sessions. • LEVEL: WSE T Le vel 3+ • FIND HERE: Appl e Podcasts or Matthewsworldofwine anddrink.com • PAIR WITH: Matth ew’s deliver y is sophisticated, so this podcast goes well with a Bo rdeaux (or the region you are curr ently studying). TRY: Fleur Haut-Gau ssens 2015 Bordeaux Supérieur , France ($21.99)

Weekly Wine Show:

’s shows Tony and Betty Notto minutes are between 5 and 30 ly easy dib re inc long. They are wine g rin ve to understand, co and fun , es basics, regions, grap inter views. l 1+ • LEVEL: WSET Leve and Apple fy • FIND HERE: Spoti Show.com ine Podcasts, WeeklyW , ick fun • PAIR WITH: This qu thing that’s podcast needs some build the easygoing and helps from a basics, so try wines rieties— va e few classic grap igio, Gr Chardonnay, Pinot t. TRY: Pinot Noir, and Merlo is Pinot Undurraga 2019 Sibar ile ($22.99) Noir Leyda Valley, Ch

The Business of Wine It was a pleasure to meet one of our customers who is equally intrigued by the wine podcast world but whose interests were in the business of wine and individual producers. Maury Donen sends me lists of his favourite podcast episodes, keeping my listening very well rounded.

of the late Becky Wasserman (Burgundy wines) or the Judgement in Paris organized by the late Steven Spurrier (the best of California Cabernet vs the best of France’s Bordeaux), podcasts opened my eyes to the commitment and passion of many who put the wine industry on the map.”

“Podcasts shed light into the life of the winemaker— his or her vision for the wine, thinking through how the terroir contributes to taste and how best to blend,” says Maury. “It is like taking a plane across the world and meeting with these esteemed individuals faceto-face. They can also provide a tremendous history of the wine industry. Whether it is the contributions

Maury’s Picks (available on Spotify or Apple Podcasts): • • • •

I’ll Drink to That The Grape Nation The James Suckling Podcast Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy

JonesWines.com 23

Available exclusively at

Introducing the newest Civettina in the family...

CIVETTINA ROSSO TERRE SICILANE IGT

Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!

SHOP LOCAL, GLOBALLY

Sum of the Parts By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS)

Blends dominated the wine world for most of its modern life. With this issue’s focus on Bordeaux blends, at its heart is how to combine the best qualities of each grape variety to create a wine that is so much more than just varieties put together. In 17 years of buying wine for Jones & Company, I have found one thing to be true: each winemaker believes that their technique is the perfect way to make wine. And each one is right: each is working with the grapes, climate, weather, resources, and facilities they have at the service of their wines. This means that sometimes blends are made out of necessity, and sometimes they can come from the vision and desire to create something new from what the land has provided.

always a Cabernet blend. But we didn’t have Merlot and Cabernet Franc blended, so we used what we had on hand to create our own unique style.” The Aussie Shiraz also helped to fill out the palate of the greener Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Australia at the time. The match fit: Malleea is widely regarded as an iconic Australian blend.

However, Bordeaux isn’t the only region with an affinity for blends. To show you what the rest of the world has to offer, we asked some of our close winemaking friends to share the decision-making that goes into the creation of a perfect blend. These wines truly show that the sum can be much greater than the individual parts.

Majella Wines, Coonawarra, Australia Jones & Company carries two amazing Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz blends from Majella winery in Coonawarra: Australian icon Malleea ($89.99) and their everyday drinker, The Musician ($25.99). The latter, one of our top sellers, serves to introduce each new generation of wine lovers to the possibilities of the famous Australian blend. When I asked co-director and close friend Brian “Prof” Lynn about the origins of its top-tier blend, he was characteristically candid in his response. “Our Majella winemaker, Bruce Gregory, always wanted to produce the Great Australia Blend,” Prof said, referring to Malleea, which stands shoulder to shoulder with Aussie greats like Grange and Wolf Blass Black Label. “In Australia in the 70s, we grew up on Claret, which was

26 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Prof

A. A. Badenhorst, Swartland, South Africa If you are lucky enough to meet Adi Badenhorst, always be cautious taking him at face value—part of his charm is his enthusiastic obfuscation. While visiting his small family winery in the heart of the Swartland, we asked him how he blended his wines. Standing in the middle of the seven concrete fermenters and eight old wood fourdres (inert wooden fermenters) in his winery, he spilled his secret formula with a little smirk. “Well, we pick some grapes when they are ready and put it in the vat. But we don’t have enough to fill the vat, so we pick some more and put them on top. When we run out of room, we move onto the next vat.”

Tenuta Sette Cieli, Tuscany, Italy When we first met winemaker Elena Pozzolini, we were blown away by her energy and passion for her vineyards. It was when we started tasting her wine at the spectacular estate above the Bolgheri coast that we discovered her laser focus on creating the best wines from many parcels that surround the winery. Blends of Elena’s Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc can be found in the Yantra Rosso ($31.99) and Noi. 4 Rosso ($48.99). When asked why she loves the process, Elena described the ability to envision something unique. “Even if a blend is identified as a wine composed of different grapes or wines in different percentages, for me, a new creation can be born from a blend.”

Adi

This is, of course, a very simplified version of what is actually happening. Adi is an extremely talented winemaker who knows how to blend based on the fruit coming into his winery. If you want to taste a master’s work, look no further than the A.A. Badenhorst wines: The Curator Red ($18.99) and White ($18.99), Secateurs Red ($28.99), and A.A. Badenhorst Red Blend ($52.99).

Elena JonesWines.com 27

PROFILE

Mark Turner Amsterdam Tea Room Photos by Ian McCausland

In a small town outside of Glasgow, Scotland, young Mark Turner got his start in the industry as a humble dishwasher. He cut his teeth in the bartending business in Glasgow at a high-volume cocktail bar called Gong, slinging drinks for the 5–8 crowd while attending university. After college, Mark hit the road to hone his cocktail craft in Sydney, Paris, and New York. The next logical stop was, of course, Winnipeg. From Glasgow to Winnipeg: I was working in Glasgow, but at the time, there was a slight recession, and I had a couple of friends who had opened bars that were really struggling. I’ve got family here, so I knew Winnipeg before I moved. I knew The Exchange, and I could see the potential. And I just loved the old buildings, the history of this area. I made the jump, and the rest is a little bit of a whirlwind. Inspiration for Amsterdam Tea Room: There’s very much a café culture in Europe where you can go into a teahouse or coffee shop, but they also have cocktails and wine, beer, and food. It’s that relaxed “anything goes” kind of atmosphere that I wanted to bring here. Amsterdam was very prolific back in the 1600s with the Dutch East India trading company bringing teas from Asia to Europe and spices and herbs. That ties in with the retail aspect here, where we sell loose teas and tea-infused cocktail syrups. Your secret ingredient: Tea. Having almost 70 teas to work with, essentially every single one of them is an ingredient. So in the kitchen, for example, we have a Lapsang Souchong, which is a Chinese smoked black tea that we use as our smoke flavour. We also use that Lapsang in our house Old Fashioned. We make it with rum, chocolate bitters, and we do a Lapsang smoked tea-infused sugar. So it’s got a little bit of smokey chocolate and sweetness.

28 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

The most interesting current trend: I suppose the trend I’m leading is the tea infusions or the tea influence. Our menu is exclusively tea-infused cocktails. There is another trend in the cocktail world where places are building cocktail menus around ingredients rather than classic cocktails. There’s a bar in London that I love called Lyaness Bar, and they make a lot of their ingredients inhouse. They’ve created a menu designed around ingredients rather than just cocktail types. They very much apply a cook’s approach to flavour and drinks. Favourite cocktail recipe book: My favourite cocktail book is actually a cookbook: The Flavor Thesaurus, by Niki Segnit. Because it’s not specifically a cocktail book, if you’ve got the knowledge and experience of cocktail ingredients, you can swap those ideas into the spaces. It gives you much more freedom to be creative, and you’re not so set in certain ways.

If you weren’t in the restaurant industry: Maybe I would be the captain of a luxury motor yacht. When I was 20, I took a summer out and worked on luxury motor yachts in the south of France. There’s a place in France called Antibes, between Cannes and Monaco, and they’ve got the biggest international quay. There, I worked on Mohamed AlFayed’s and the King of Saudi Arabia’s boats. First meal that made you interested in food: One of the smaller boats I worked on was owned by a guy called Alan, who had a restaurant in town. He was awesome. He used to bring me a tuna Niçoise for lunch every day with a little cup of wine. He brought some really nice white wines. I just remember thinking: this is the life. Favourite wine: Lilith Primitivo (Puglia, Italy). It’s got really good intensity and a little bit of spiciness. Favourite food travel destination: I love Croatia—it has a lot of hidden gems. In a smaller town called Rovinj, one of those beautiful Roman towns built on the hill, there’s a cathedral at the top, and a little restaurant poked just behind it. One of the best meals I’ve ever had—just phenomenal. But probably now that I’ve not been home for a good six years, it’s Scotland. For me, it’s the best seafood in the world.

Mussels with coconut cream, lemongrass, ginger, kale, capers, sesame oil with the Business Class, starring Jim Beam Black Bourbon, Gunpowder Green Tea, Amaro Montenegro, Aperol, lemon, and Umberto Baccichetto Prosecco Frizzante

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GARY’S CORNER

Engineering Bordeaux By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier Winemaking is full of creative solutions to specialized problems. I have often envisioned engineers, late in the evening, around a low table strewn with bent and empty beer cans, laughing and scribbling plans on napkins. For one particular invention, I picture a sublime moment of creation as a machine is imagined into existence. It’s taller than wide, straddles grapevines, and uses flexible rods to whack grapes from the vine onto a conveyer belt that carries them upwards and dumps them into an onboard hopper—a fantastical Rube Goldberg invention! But no, these absurd machines exist and harvest the majority of the world’s grapes every year. Solutions often seem mundane compared to the mechanical harvester, but every action, from planting a vineyard to the distribution of finished wine, is impacted by engineering. And, very occasionally, engineers get to play on a grand scale. In the case of the Médoc region of Bordeaux, engineers transformed a salt marsh into some of the most revered vineyards in the world.

Also at the time, the English and the French were repeatedly at loggerheads over trade, and the English were imposing harsh duties on French wine. In looking for alternate markets, the Netherlands was discovered as a profitable destination, and relations with France flourished. Therefore, it was no surprise that France turned to the Dutch master engineers— the dessiccateurs—to drain the country’s marshes. The deal proved extremely attractive to the Dutch engineers. To comply with French law, the land to be drained was signed over to the contractors who assumed full financial risk. In return, once the lands were drained and ownership reverted, the contractors had access to the lion’s share of the reclaimed land (although they paid rent). Many of the Dutch stayed and became French citizens with the consequential results of further consolidation of important wine estates and a flourishing reputation for the Médoc.

The potential of the Médoc was hinted at by a famous estate just to the southeast of the city of Bordeaux in an area called Graves (meaning gravel). A property owned by the Pontac family called Haut-Brion had developed a reputation for wines of a “particular taste.” English philosopher John Locke made a pilgrimage to Haut-Brion in 1677 to find a “little hillock facing west, whose soil is nothing but pure white sand, mixed with a little gravel. One would imagine it scarce fit to grow anything.”

The actual engineering feat was complex and involved the techniques developed to reclaim low-lying coastal land in the Netherlands. The high sand dunes on the ocean side of the Médoc were stabilized by extensive plantings, while tidal flooding was controlled by a system of dikes along the Gironde backed up by mills and pumps to drain the marshland. Any hope for an agricultural future depended upon preventing saltwater from permeating the soils. In total, 3,500 hectares of land was reclaimed from the estuary. Channels dug to facilitate this engineering feat are visible in the Médoc to this day.

At the time, similar gravel soils were noted to the northwest of the city along the bank of the Gironde Estuary. The area was remote, but patches of gravel above the arable land used to grow wheat supported a few promising vineyards. These islands of vines later became the great wine estates of the Médoc, but at the time, their villages, now famous in the wine world—Margaux, Saint-Julien, Paulliac, and Saint-Estephe— were linked only by water transport. The most westerly reaches of the Médoc nearing the Atlantic Ocean were sand dunes and salt marshes affected by the rise and fall of the tides.

The success of the process greatly exceeded expectations. The complex strata of sands, gravels, and clay underlying the gravel beds created perfect environments for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. This could not have been predicted, nor could the extent of fame and prosperity of the region. Perhaps the engineers did not create the brilliant terroir of the Médoc—eons of geological time and processes did that—but their efforts certainly revealed the terroir and provided the wine world with some of its greatest glories.

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Cité du Vin Musée (Photo by Mamie Boude courtesy of Vins de Bordeaux)

Blending Bordeaux The place, the wine, inspiring the world

By Sylvia Jansen (DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier) and Mike Muirhead (Sommelier, ISG, CMS) Bordeaux: it is a wine region, a city, a spectrum of wines, and the inspiration for red and white wine styles around the world. The importance and history of Bordeaux seem to loom large, yet Bordeaux is a place—and a wine style—

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that is truly accessible, dynamic, and exciting. Finding this side of Bordeaux is simply a matter of peeling back the layers and enjoying the scene.

Saint-Émilion at sunrise

The Place Reflecting the daylight with what seems the shimmering fluidity of poured wine, La Cité du Vin rises from the banks of the Garonne River a short distance from Bordeaux’s city centre. La Cité du Vin is a wine museum like no other, a destination for wine lovers and professionals alike since it opened its doors in 2016. “Especially in recent years, Bordeaux has become a destination, with a great restaurant scene for any pocketbook and a showcase for regional wines,” says Gary Hewitt, the intrepid senior buyer for Jones & Company. Visiting Bordeaux a number of times over the past two decades has given him a distinct perspective. As the former home of Vinexpo, a huge wine trade exhibition, Bordeaux has been a regular destination for the Jones & Company buying team. Mike Muirhead, our VicePresident and buyer, agrees that when he first visited, it gave the impression of a city designed to impress, but the recent decades have seen a transformation, both in the region’s wines and in the city of Bordeaux itself. This transformation has been a while in coming. The Romans made wine here, and the region of Bordeaux and this port city have been the centre of the wine world for a long time. The 1152 marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry, future King of England, created an alliance that saw its wines enjoy centuries of favoured tax status and a reputation among the British aristocracy. Unstoppable industrial classes emerged: Dutch merchants, followed by a well-organized Bordeaux merchant class, managed to purchase, trade, and ship the regional wines to England and far beyond. Added to these factors have been trade classifications helping set a few Bordeaux wines on a pinnacle. The most famous classification was established in 1855, when organizers of a

Paris exposition thought winery rankings would be a good idea. The classification ignored much of the region, focusing mainly on the big names of the Médoc. Four châteaux were named Premiers Crus (“first growths” in a five-tier ranking), and more than a century and a half has gone by with only one change. Châteaux Lafite Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, and Haut-Brion have continued their position at the top, in reputation and price. In 1973, Château Mouton-Rothschild finally managed to become the only change—the fifth Premier Cru. Manicured roads past these châteaux reflect their lofty positions and loftier prices. Yet Bordeaux is not just about the ones at the top. Thousands of vignerons collectively produce more than 700 million bottles of wine, more quality wine than any other French wine region. The past two decades have seen a major push toward quality from lesser-known areas and estates, creating the energy for a truly exciting wine scene. Wine lovers are seeing a fresh, refreshing sense of the new Bordeaux. In the city itself, the makeover crews have done some impressive work, with beautiful, refurbished squares and scenic river corridors. Local produce from sea and land supplies a stunning array of restaurants, cafés, and casual wine bars. Depending on your budget, the Arachon oysters, local lamb, duck, and mushrooms might be Michelinstarred—or just the star of the dish. Beautiful regional wines round out any dinner. La Cité du Vin showcases the city’s transformation. The museum is as innovative and fun inside as it appears outside. Themed tours around the connections among wine, culture, and history give a sense of wine’s rich contribution to the travels of the human family. Moreover, your tour ends with a glass of wine in the top-floor tasting room, overlooking this amazing city. JonesWines.com 35

ro Gi e nd

The Bordeaux Wine Region ry

a tu Es Bordeaux AC and Bordeaux Supérieure AC

Right Bank

4 2 3

1 8 10

6 11

Left Bank

7 CITY OF BORDEAUX

12 5

EntreDeux-Mers

Famous Appellations

stu eE

ro Gi

1. Château Siran 2016 Margaux AC ($89.99) 2. Château Langoa Barton 2010 Saint-Julien AC ($201.99) 3. Château Branaire-Ducru 2017 Saint-Julien AC ($188.99) 4. Château Lynch Moussas 2016 Pauillac AC ($112.99) 5. Château Haut-Bailly 2015 Grand Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan AC ($425.99) 6. Château La Cabanne 2016 Pomerol AC ($97.99) 7. Thunevin Envy de Valandraud 2016 Grand Cru Saint-Émilion AC ($68.99)

Discoveries 8. Château Fleur Haut Gaussens 2015 Bordeaux Supérieur AC ($21.99) 9. Château Bel-Air Lagrave 1988 Moulis-en-Médoc AC ($63.99) 10. Château Clos du Roy 2018 Fronsac AC ($36.99) 11. Château Saint Brice 2018 Saint-Émilion AC ($29.99) 12. Château Minvielle 2020 Cuvée Capitaine White Bordeaux AC ($17.99) 13. Château Méaume 2018 Bordeaux Supérieure AC ($21.99)

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Haut-Médoc

Médoc

Appellations

Graves

The Wine Nowhere in the world does place transcend grape variety more than in France. Sancerre is more than Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis more than Chardonnay, and a Red Burgundy from one of the scores of Burgundian appellations contrôlées (ACs) is more than simply Pinot Noir. They are unique to place, but place has also become their mystique. The wines of Bordeaux have long been considered among the most desired styles to emulate: complex blends that arise from grape varieties, the region, and growing conditions that can change every year.

The Black Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménère represent the main varieties of Bordeaux (four heat-resistant reds were introduced in 2020 to help the region evolve with climate change). When most wine lovers think of Bordeaux, they think of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Bordeaux’s Building Blocks What does each grape bring to the Bordeaux blend?

Cabernet Sauvignon the Brawn:

Merlot the Elegance:

Cabernet Franc the Best Friend:

a great partner to Merlot and known for assertive tannins, it is a main reason classified Bordeaux needs aging.

prized for luscious and round mouth feel and red fleshy fruit.

characterized by bright acidity and elegant tannins, it adds that “je ne sais quoi.”

Petit Verdot the Booster:

Malbec the Ringer:

Carménère the Humble:

with intense colour and powerful aromas, Petit Verdot adds some extra kick.

very fruity and deep in colour, Malbec adds intensity and smoothness.

almost forgotten in its Bordeaux homeland, Carménère can add richness, a nice herbal edge, and a touch of bitterness.

JonesWines.com 37

While most Premier Cru wines of the Left Bank (west of the Gironde River) are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot plantings actually dominate the region. Merlot is the primary grape in Right Bank wines (east of the Gironde River)—Saint-Émilion and Pomerol being the best-known appellations. Merlot is also a significant blending component in Left Bank wines and the primary grape in many Bordeaux AC and Bordeaux Supérieur AC wines.

The White Grapes Fewer than 10% of Bordeaux’s wines are white, with a tiny proportion of these being sweet. Often blends, the main varieties are Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and occasionally Muscadelle. At the everyday end of the scale, Bordeaux whites are fresh grapefruit- and citrus-driven wines with lively acidity to go with any starter course or fish. Bordeaux whites can also be premium blends, aged in oak, for structured, elegant wines that show incredible richness and concentration.

Sweet and Special In a small part of Bordeaux another element is added to the palate of white grape varieties: a beautiful intersection of autumn mists, warm sunshine, and the special character that noble rot brings to the mix. The amazing, sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac are the result: perfumed, fullbodied, and interlaced with an ethereal lifted quality, these are the ultimate sweet treat for many wine lovers.

The Blends Why so many grapes in one region? Each grape brings its own unique characteristic, but the origin of this blend also has an economic rationale. In this moderate, maritime climate, conditions can vary widely from year to year, and

BORDEAUX WINE TERMS Noble rot refers to the amazing result of an otherwise damaging fungus (Botrytis) that attacks grapes (and other plants). In ideal conditions, humid early-morning mists allow the fungus to develop and dry, sunny afternoons restrain its progress. The result is very sweet, dried grapes that produce intense, concentrated, and long-living sweet wines. In Bordeaux, Premier Cru refers to a first growth in the Médoc 1855 trade classification, the top of the five-rung classification. The term can also refer to the classification of estates for sweet wines in Sauternes/Barsac. Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur Appellations d’Origine Controlées (AC) refer to the wine region of Bordeaux. The (mostly red) wines of Bordeaux AC are the basic quality wines of the region. Bordeaux Supérieur AC is a slightly higher designation, with stiffer requirements for yields and wine aging, where the wines are generally more intense and concentrated.

the planting of multiple varieties was actually an agricultural insurance policy. While consumers enjoy the big, sometimes brash characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon, it, along with Petit Verdot and Carménère, is a late-ripening variety. In “great” vintages when the climatic conditions are optimal, Cabernet Sauvignon realizes its full potential with big tannins and ripe fruit. However, in more difficult vintages, Merlot, which ripens up to 2 weeks earlier, really shines. Producers could change their blend to use the highest-quality fruit, allowing Bordeaux winemakers to make consistent top-quality wines, desirable year after year no matter what the vintage conditions.

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Diego Bonato and his father Gaudenzio Bonato of Azienda Agricola Reassi practice the art of blending wine (photo courtesy of Azienda Agricola Reassi).

Inspiring the World Bordeaux’s influence on blends has transcended the borders of its French homeland. Turn a New World blend to the back label. Alongside obligatory information, you might find a tasting note, a history of the winery, perhaps even a list and proportion of grape varieties in the wine. However, wines of a particular style are often missing one phrase that truly defines what they are trying to achieve: a Bordeaux blend.

In home territory, regulations governed by the French AC system dictate the varieties permitted in Bordeaux’s wines. A producer may use one of these, some, or all, but cannot go off-list for AC wines. In many other world wine regions, winemakers are free to use Bordeaux grapes as single varieties or mix and match as the winemaker chooses, free of the strict rules of Bordeaux’s ACs.

Winemakers around the world take Bordeaux blends as their inspiration. When they do not attribute their style to Bordeaux, however, it is not because they are cheating or hiding that inspiration. Rather, as the saying goes, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. The desire to repeat the magic from the banks of the Gironde is strong: in fact, three Bordeaux varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc—are among the top 10 most planted around the globe.

Many of the world’s premier wine regions use Bordeaux as an inspiration to blend their own particular brand of magic. Whatever the name, the Bordeaux varieties come with the fame and recognizable qualities and deliciousness that they offer up in their home region. Salute the inspiration—it is a rewarding one.

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COUNTRY

MAKING IT THEIR OWN One wine style that truly acknowledges the Bordeaux link is Meritage (rhymes with heritage). To use the designation, a Meritage contains only red or white Bordeaux grape varieties. Expect Meritage wines, like their Bordeaux cousins, to be structured, distinguished, and capable of developing beautifully with time in the cellar.

In California, Cabernet Sauvignon is king. In Napa Valley, consistent near-perfect growing conditions, talented winemakers, and quality-focused producers defined a new decadent style of Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. Some command the same price as Premier Cru Bordeaux.

Chile has been working with Bordeaux varieties since the mid-1800s, and today Cabernet Sauvignon is their most widely planted red variety. One variety that is now rare in its Bordeaux home has become Chile’s signature variety: Carménère. The best Bordeaux blends from Chile show style, concentration, and intensity, often with the distinct edge that Carménère brings to the mix.

Argentina’s producers have taken a historic Bordeaux variety and made it famous. Argentinean Malbec, often grown at high altitudes in the shadow of the Andes, has become an international sensation. Wines like Finca Martha, Catena, and Punto Final show this grape’s wide range and full potential.

In Australia, the first Aussie Clarets were made from Cabernet Sauvignon and the readily available Shiraz (such as Majella Malleea). Aussies have also successfully used Bordeaux varieties such as Petit Verdot (Pirramimma) that require a hot, long growing season. Looking beyond straight-up Australian Shiraz reveals other amazing wines.

In Italy, Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast has been inspired by Bordeaux for more than a generation. What began with a few inspired winemakers’ side-projects has grown into a regional style of distinguished red blends based on Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot (alongside varieties such as Sangiovese). Producers are also working magic with Bordeaux blends in Colli Euganei, Veneto.

WHAT TO TRY Tawse 2016 Meritage Cabernet Sauvignon/ Cabernet Franc/Merlot, Niagara Peninsula ($62.99) Synchromesh 2018 Tetre Rouge Naramata ($43.99)

Moone-Tsai 2016 Hillside Blend Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($249.99) Oakville Winery 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($84.99)

Santa Ema 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley ($15.99) Ventisquero 2017 Vertice Carménère/ Syrah, Colchagua Valley ($39.99)

Finca Martha 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza ($16.99) Pulenta Estate 2015 X Gran Malbec, Mendoza ($62.99)

Majella 2014 The Malleea Cabernet Sauvignon/ Shiraz, Coonawarra ($89.99) Pirramimma 2018 Petit Verdot, McLaren Vale ($32.99)

Fabio Motta 2019 Pievi Merlot/Sangiovese/ Cabernet Sauvignon, Bolgheri ($32.99) Reassi 2018 Tre Frazione Cabernet Sauvignon/ Cabernet Franc/Merlot, Colli Euganei ($32.99)

TECHNICAL NOTES Winery: az agr Fabio Motta Wine: Pievi - Bolgheri rosso doc Varietals: Merlot 50% - Cabernet Sauvignon 25% - Sangiovese 25% Production subregion: Bolgheri Soil: sedimentary clay mixed sand, rich in iron Bottles produced: 10.000 Alcohol content: 13,5 % vol. Harvest time: end of august (Merlot); middle september (Sangiovese); beginning October (Cabernet) Training system: spurred cordon Altitude: 50 mt. a.s.l. Exposition: South - West Each variety is harvested at full ripening by hand in small baskets. It is fermented in wooden barrels of 33 hl size with the natural yeasts only. The cap is pushed down by hand twice a day and in the first days of fermentation I often do delastages to let the must breathe. Normally the fermentations takes 2 weeks for each variety, after that the wine is blended and passes into 2 and 3 years old barriques where naturally runs the malolactic fermentation and rests for 12 months it is bottled without undergoing any filtration or fining. The bottle is closed with a “extra” quality natural corck from Sardinia. Total acidity: 5.1 g/l Volatile acidity: 0.6 g/l PH: 3.6 Sulphites total: 45 mg/l Fining: frech oak barriques lightly toasted, 2 and 3 years old TASTING NOTES Colour: intense ruby red Nose: intense fresh red fruit, violet, cigar box Palate: fresh fruit corresponding to the nose, balsamical notes. Tannins are present but ripened, rixh minerality and balance between alcohol and aromatic component. Pairings: all kind of meat, ham e formaggi and aged cheese. Pasta dishes with rich sauces.

What Bordeaux Grape Are You? STICK WITH MY FAVOURITES

IDEAL VACATION

STAYCATION

ECO-ADVENTURE SAFARI

A RESORT WITH FRIENDS

FAVOURITE MEAL WITH FRIENDS

FAVOURITE MOVIE GENRE

FAVOURITE MEAL WITH WINE

BRUNCH

DINNER

PETIT VERDOT

ACTION

ROMANCE

CABERNET FRANC

STEAK + POTATOES

ANYTHING PAIRED WITH GOOD COMPANY

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WHEN I CHOOSE WINE, I...

ASK A WINE GEEK

I LOOK FOR...

WATERSKIING

BIG & FRUITY

PEPPER & SPICE

FAVOURITE OUTDOOR ACTIVITY

FAVOURITE DATE NIGHT

HOCKEY

MERLOT

GARDENING

KARAOKE

CARMÉNÈRE

DINNER

MALBEC

We’ll come to you! Free delivery for the month of February! Whether you want one bottle of wine or several cases, for the month of February, wine deliveries ordered directly from Jones & Company are FREE!*

Delivery to home or business within the perimeter. (18+ required to accept delivery) Order before 6 p.m. for next-day delivery between noon and 5 p.m. Delivery is not available on Sundays. Four ways to order your wine: Online*: JonesWines.com/shop Phone: 204.948.WINE (9463) Text: 204.400.0499 Email: wine@joneswines.com

*Some restrictions apply. Free delivery does not apply to orders made through third-party delivery companies such as Skip the Dishes or Uber Eats—only orders made through Jones & Company directly.

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5 Questions for

Christophe Reboul Salze Interview by Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier Photo courtesy of Christophe Reboul Salze

Christophe Reboul Salze is ideally suited to comment on the recent past, present, and future of the Bordeaux wine region. A career veteran of the Bordeaux wine scene, Christophe founded The Wine Merchant, a highly successful négociant firm that deals primarily in Bordeaux’s classified growths. He sold this firm to new interests in 2017, and rather than retire, Christophe refocussed his attention on his own winegrowing properties in Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux: Château Gigault, Château Belle Coline, and Château Les Grands Marechaux.

What are the most significant changes in Bordeaux wine that you have seen over your career? I made my career in the world of Grands Crus Classés of Bordeaux, and to me, it seems important to differentiate this world from that of the petits châteaux. In fact, the difference between the Grands Crus Classés and the petit châteaux has not stopped growing over the last 50 years. In the 1950s and 60s, a First Growth sold at 12 times the price of a table wine; now it’s about 400 times! Also, in the 1980s, Bordeaux produced 7 million hectolitres and sold it all. The majority of the Grands Crus Classés did not make a second wine, and the vineyards were not in perfect

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condition. This did not prevent the grands terroirs from producing marvellous bottles in the great years such as ’82, ’85, ’86, ’89 and ’90. Now, the production is approximately 5 million hectolitres, of which approximately 4 million are sold. The viticulture and winemaking techniques have improved a lot, and the wines of Bordeaux have never been better. Nevertheless, the very top wines are now part of the world of luxury. This world is popular with négociants and “global agents” because it generates a large turnover. In contrast, the world of petits vins no longer interests the négociants who concentrate on the grands vins and adapt their inventories accordingly.

What do you see as strengths (and weaknesses?) of Bordeaux in the competitive wine world of today? Apart from the quality of many terroirs, one of the strengths of Bordeaux is its capacity to distribute wines around the globe. Major foreign winegrowers recognize this capacity. By offering increasingly large allocations of their wines to the Bordeaux négociants, the Rothschilds’ joint ventures Almaviva and Opus One led the way to a great number of

high-quality foreign winegrowers who now sell their wine through La Place de Bordeaux. This is one of the reasons that the trade is no longer interested in the petits chateaux. One of the weaknesses of Bordeaux is the constraint of an appellation. Outside of the crus classés, there are noble appellations such as Saint-Émilion, Pomerol, etc., and then there are others such as Côte de Castillon, Côtes de Blaye, etc. These latter appellations are very underestimated, and some of their terroirs are simply magical and superior to others in more noble appellations. Nevertheless, with certain rare exceptions, these winegrowers fail to obtain a fair price for their production even when the quality is exceptional. It is very different for foreign vineyards that do not have such constraints.

What are the most exciting trends? Bordeaux’s conversion to organic wines, and the advent of digital platforms that allow people to compare prices. The Internet has radically changed the covert world of grands vins. Up until the end of the 1990s, only Bordelais négociants had access to the price charged by the château owner or the trade. Only a handful of operators and extremely well-informed amateurs knew the prices. The Internet profoundly altered this landscape, and anyone interested in wine can find a reference price or a journalist’s rating.

The Internet has radically changed the covert world of grands vins.

You ran a successful négociant business selling other people’s wine, but now you have returned to your own winegrowing properties. How do you compare these two sides of the Bordeaux industry? When you are a négociant, if for some reason the sales are slowing down, you can buy less wine and wait for better times. When you produce wines, even if the sales slow down, you have to go on producing and find out how to sell or store the wines. Both jobs are exciting but production needs to find direct outlets without the help of intermediaries. Production, after all, is at the base of the market, and it is possible in this increasingly digital world that there is less need for intermediaries.

Why should today’s wine lovers drink Bordeaux wines? Bordeaux has a very old tradition in its way of making wines. Yet, it is also the region with the most advanced research, and the majority of global wine consultants are from Bordeaux. I think that Bordeaux knew to successfully marry tradition and state-of-the-art modernism. Bordeaux has the best to offer, especially if we speak about very well-made wines from the Côtes de Bordeaux and satellite appellations that fight [for recognition of] their quality because they cannot count on [the fame of] their appellation to facilitate sales. Bordeaux’s supply, especially in red wine, is very large and exceeds demand, so all the ingredients combine for a competitive price. The most undervalued appellations are the Côtes de Bordeaux and Fronsac.

A Bordeaux Glossary Appellation: a defined winegrowing region with regulations regarding permitted grape varieties, yields, and winemaking intended to maintain the regional identity of wines. Grand Cru Classé: In the Médoc, Grand Cru Classé refers to the 1855 Classification of Médoc and Graves in which the top 60 estates were sorted into five tiers, first to fifth growths, as a promotional ploy for the 1855 Exposition Universelle in Paris. Grands terroirs: Terroir refers to the sum total of location, climate, and soil expressed through viticultural and winemaking practices. Grands terroirs are the most exceptional examples. Petits châteaux, literally “little castles,” refers to the thousands of lesser producers of the Médoc outside of the classed growth systems that, sometimes pejoratively, are said to produce petits vins. Négociants are wine merchants whose role has morphed over time from one primarily involving buying bulk wines, blending under “house” labels, and selling to retail markets to being increasingly involved in purchasing finished wines from named estates and moving these to markets. La Place de Bordeaux: La Place is not a physical place but the network of négociants and other companies involved in the marketing and distribution of Bordeaux, and increasingly other iconic wines. Historically, many such businesses were located along the waterfront in the centre of the city of Bordeaux. Second wine: Historically, each château produced a single wine. In recent times, Grand Cru producers, in particular, choose to limit production of their grand vin (i.e., their best possible wine) and to make a second wine from vines or barrels below the grand vin standard. Second wines are often excellent and are always less expensive than the grand vin.

JonesWines.com 47

March is Chardonnay month in memory of Rebecca Lechman (1977-2020) Shop Chardonnay at joneswines.com/shop

Rebecca is always in our hearts as one of the dearest members of our Jones & Company family. To honour her memory, every March is Chardonnay month (big and dirty were her favourite). For the month of March, $5 from each bottle of Chardonnay sold up to $5000 will go into an education fund for her precious niece, Aneska. Please join us in raising a glass of Chardonnay to Rebecca.

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One-Pot Comfort By Tina Jones, Mike Muirhead, and Manon Paquin Photos by Ian McCausland Over the past year, the food trends have reflected time spent at home with a little space to tackle new and innovative recipes and techniques. There was the sourdough craze and a resurgence of gardening and canning—and don’t forget Dalgona coffee and increasingly complex cocktail recipes. In the dead of winter, however, sometimes what you need is one big pot, a list of simple ingredients, and a few perfect wine pairings. The top brass at Jones & Company—Tina, Mike, and Manon—gathered around Tina’s table to share their favourite onepot comfort meals and, of course, a little bit of wine.

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CREAMY CHICKEN RAMEN Serves 4–6 2 cups 2 tbsp 1 cup 3 1 2 1 2 cans 3 cups 1 can 1 ½ tsp 1½ tbsp

rotisserie chicken coconut oil large carrot, sliced cilantro, chopped cloves of garlic, minced lime, cut into wedges bell peppers, diced white onion, diced coconut milk (not light) chicken broth bamboo shoots package Ramen noodles cayenne pepper (or to taste) curry powder salt & pepper to taste

Heat coconut oil in a large pot over medium. Add onion, bell peppers, and carrots and cook until tender (8–10 minutes). Add garlic and stir until fragrant (1–2 minutes). Add curry powder, cayenne, and season with salt and pepper. Stir until combined. Shake coconut milk so it is blended; pour coconut milk and chicken broth over the vegetables and bring to a simmer. Add the shredded chicken and ramen noodles, and cook until noodles are al dente. Garnish with cilantro and a lime wedge.

PAIR WITH: Journey’s End 2021 Bees Knees Chenin Blanc/Viognier Western Cape, South Africa ($17.99) Stågard 2019 Grüner Veltliner Niederösterreich, Austria ($37.99) Botter 2017 Era Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy ($15.99)

Exquisite Primitivo, available exclusively at

OSSO BUCCO WITH SIMPLE ITALIAN RICE Serves 6–8 6 to 8 cup cup 4 tbsp 3 3 2 2 cans 2 cans ½ cup 1¼ cup

pieces veal shank flour* each salt and pepper olive oil, split carrots, chopped fine onion, chopped fine celery stalks, chopped fine tomato Polpa** whole, peeled San Marzano tomatoes, roughly chopped Italian spice blend white or red wine

Preheat oven to 350°F. Dredge the veal shank in a mixture of flour, salt, and pepper and set aside. Heat olive oil in a large, oven-safe pot on medium-high. Sear the veal shanks, five minutes per side until golden brown. Do not crowd or stack the veal shanks—do this carefully, one by one. Set aside the browned shanks (saving any juice from the tray they are sitting on). Remove the pot from the heat and let cool 10 minutes. Scrape bits from the bottom of the pot and add 2 tbsp olive oil to cover the bottom of the pot.

*For a gluten-free recipe, use gluten-free pancake mix instead of flour. **Tomato Polpa is a combination of finely chopped tomatoes and tomato juice. Tina recommends Mutti brand, which she found at DeLuca’s. If you don’t have access to Polpa, use canned crushed tomatoes.

Heat the oil on medium heat. Add the carrots, onions, and celery and cook for 10–15 minutes until onions are translucent, stirring often with a wooden spoon. Stir in tomato Polpa, whole tomatoes, wine, and Italian spice blend. Let simmer for 30 minutes, stirring often.

BUY LOCAL: We went to DeLuca’s for many of our ingredients, including the veal shanks, Mutti brand tomato Polpa, San Marzano tomatoes, DeLuca’s pizza spice blend (for Italian spices), and Riscossa Riso Superfino arborio rice.

Add the veal shank pieces to the sauce, making sure they are fully immersed. Cover with a lid and place in the oven for one hour. After one hour, reduce the oven temperature to 325°F, take the lid off the pot and continue cooking for three hours. Do not stir while the dish is in the oven. Once you remove the dish from the oven, let it sit for a minimum of half an hour before serving. To serve, gently lift the shanks out of the sauce, trying to keep the bone, meat, and marrow intact. Smother with sauce and serve with simple Italian rice. Optional: We served the osso bucco with gremolata, a simple Italian condiment made of one bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped, one minced garlic clove, and the zest of two lemons.

Simple Italian Rice 500 g 1 tbsp 1 cup

arborio rice butter or olive oil grated Parmesan Reggiano salted water

This easy Italian rice is cooked how you would cook pasta. Bring ample salted water to a boil (use kosher or sea salt— never use iodized salt). Add rice and cook for 14–16 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat, drain, add butter or olive oil and grated Parmesan Reggiano. Serve hot.

PAIR WITH: Fabio Motta 2016 Le Gonnare Rosso Superiore Tuscany, Italy ($65.99) Domaine des Homs 2019 Chardonnay Pays d’Oc, France ($17.99) Le Ragnaie 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Tuscany, Italy ($109.99)

54 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

SPAGHETTI WITH BACON AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS Serves 6 5 1 lb 1½ tsp 1 4 1 cup 1

bacon rashers, cut into 1/2" pieces Brussels sprouts, sliced red chili flakes package spaghetti cloves of garlic, thinly sliced grated Pecorino cheese, divided extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper

Cook bacon in a large braising pan or skillet on medium heat until browned. Move bacon to a paper towel and remove all but 1 tsp of fat from the pan. Add 1/2 of the sliced Brussels sprouts and cook for 7–8 minutes, tossing occasionally, until tender and brown. Move to the plate with the bacon. Add 2 tbsp of water and scrape all the brown bits off the bottom of the pan. Add 1 tbsp of oil, cook the remaining Brussels sprouts for 7–8 minutes, then remove to the plate. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water to al dente, reserving 1/4 cup of pasta water before you drain it. Turn the skillet to low heat, add 2 tbsp of olive oil, and add the garlic, stirring often so it does not burn, approximately 2 minutes. Add pasta, reserved pasta water, chili flakes, and 1/2 cup of Pecorino, stirring to coat the pasta. Toss with bacon, Brussels sprouts, and freshly ground pepper, and serve immediately with more grated Pecorino to garnish.

PAIR WITH: Zarate 2020 Albarino Rias Baixas, Spain ($26.99) Mullineux Family Wines 2020 Kloof Street Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa ($29.99) La Dama 2020 Valpolicella Classico, Italy ($24.99)

BUY LOCAL: We bought our bacon at our local butcher, Marcello’s Meats. For our olive oils, we drop by our neighbours, Frescolio Fine Oil & Vinegar. Their Coratina Robust Extra Virgin Olive Oil complemented the red chilis perfectly.

Modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with warm hospitality make dining at Beaujena’s special, regardless of the occasion.

From when we walked in the door to when we walked out, your place was the definition of class and quality. From the hospitality to the food, we were thoroughly impressed.

Open exclusively on Saturday evenings By reservation only In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave.

—Joel, Winnipeg

www.beaujenas.com | 204.233.4841 | beaujena@shaw.ca

Aoccdrnig to a rseearch taem at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoatnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be in the rghit pclae. It matters.

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Add a loonie or two to each bottle purchased for the HSC Foundation! Jones & Company will match it—up to $10,000. Valid April 1 - April 30

www.hscfoundation.mb.ca

Tina Jones (with President Jon Lyon) is Chair of the Board of Directors of the Health Sciences Centre Foundation and is passionate about improving health care in Manitoba. Please give generously and help us continue to provide tomorrow’s health care today at Manitoba’s Hospital, HSC.

Every bottle is eligible for the matching donation program, online or in-store, at the time of purchase.

WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.

W CO

NI E&DR I N

A New Year, New Wine Knowledge! WDCM is happy to continue our long-standing programs of excellence in wine education. We have waited with you, modified our offerings, and taken into account all public health restrictions and guidelines. All staff is fully vaccinated, and our in-person courses are open only to those who are also fully vaccinated. We are excited to meet interested wine lovers and hospitality service staff alike. WSET programs are the gold standard in wine education, offered in more than 70 countries. WDCM has trained Manitoba’s WSET and Sommelier graduates, and many of our alumni have followed careers as industry leaders. Our teaching staff has an unmatched depth of experience, subject expertise, and passion. Please contact us to discuss what courses are right for you. Our WSET 1 runs April 3 and May 28 and an accelerated WSET 2 Award in Wines starts April 26. The WSET Level 3 Award in Wines starts on September 13, 2022, with the exam in February 2023. Please check our website for information on program dates.

WSET Level 1 Award in Wines: A great place to start is WSET Level 1, a one-day course in the world of wine, food and wine harmony, tasting classic wine styles, and describing wines accurately. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin. WSET 1: Sunday, April 3; Saturday, May 28 | Cost: $399

WSET Level 2 Award in Wines: Level 2 Award in Wines is a beginner- to intermediatelevel qualification exploring wines, suitable for industry professionals and wine enthusiasts. The course is for those wishing to learn about a wide range of wines or seeking to build on knowledge from WSET Level 1 Award in Wines (although there are no prerequisites to WSET 2). You will gain knowledge of the world’s principal and regionally important grape varieties, wine regions, and styles of wine. Through both tasting and theory, you will explore the factors that impact style and quality and learn how to describe these wines with confidence.

ALEX ALLARDYCE, WINNER OF MB SOMM Congratulations to Alex Allardyce, winner of the 2021 MB Somm, Manitoba’s Best Sommelier competition! Alex represented Manitoba at the Best Sommelier of Canada competition (October 2021) in Penticton, BC. As a graduate of WDCM’s WSET Level 3 and the CAPS/ACSP Sommelier Diploma (2020) programs, she attests to the value of formal wine and drinks education. “My Sommelier study notes and flashcards came to Penticton with me in my carry-on! Those rigorous programs prepared me for this incredibly challenging competition. I am also grateful to have done my studies in Manitoba—we are fortunate to have access to such a wide range of the world’s wines in our studies—that is not true everywhere.” Alex is currently Sommelier and Supervisor at the Manitoba Club.

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The accelerated version of this course runs Tuesday evenings and Saturday days. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin and will be able to use the associated WSET certified logo. WSET 2: Tuesdays and Saturdays starting April 26 (exam on May 17) | Cost: $995

WSET Level 3 Award in Wines: WSET 3 is an advanced-level qualification for wine enthusiasts or for professionals working in the wine or hospitality industry. This course provides deep study and detailed understanding of the world of wine, including key factors in production of location, grape growing, winemaking, maturation and bottling, as well as how and why these factors affect the style, quality, and price of

wines. The course also builds your ability to assess wines accurately and to use your understanding confidently to explain wine style and quality. The course is structured in 15 evening sessions, with an exam in the 16th session. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin and will be able to use the associated WSET certified logo. Starts September 13, 2022, with the exam February 7, 2023 (course break in December) | Cost: $1,750 Course fees for all WSET courses include study and text materials; tutored tastings of wine samples to WSET specifications; access to WDCM instructor supports; and examination fees. SAVE YOUR PLACE! Deposits are now being accepted for all courses! *

Phone: 204.948.9463 | Email: wdcm@joneswines.com | Web: joneswines.com/education

&DR INE I N

*All class scheduling is subject to health restrictions in place at the time of course start. Rescheduling or cancellations due to changed restrictions will be without penalty to participants.

JonesWines.com 59

culinary partners

We asked our Culinary Partners to pair their favourite winter comfort dishes and wine picks: 1. Wasabi on Broadway: Cho Venevongsa samples a Seafood Platter paired with Bertolani nv Lambrusco Rosso Oro (Italy). 2. Bluestone Cottage: Shakshuka is a little spicy, with vegetables, feta, and eggs baked in a tomato sauce—pair it with Ventisei 2018 Rosso from Tuscany (Italy). 3. 529 Wellington: Abby Edmound pairs Prime Rib, Doug’s mashed potatoes and Yorkshire pudding with Freemark Abbey 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley (USA).

4. Prairie’s Edge: Mushroom Ravioli in a sage cream sauce and sweet potato pairs perfectly with this Il Padrino 2020 Pinot Grigio (Italy). 5. Bonnie Day: Chef Pamela Kirkpatrick pairs her Whipped Feta and garlic buttered sourdough with Domaine Astruc 2018 DA Chardonnay from Languedoc-Roussillon (France). 6 Alena Rustic Kitchen: Delicious layered Eggplant Parmigiana is paired with Pianirossi 2018 Sidus Rosso from Tuscany (Italy). 7. Gusto North: Lobster fra Diavolo finds its match in Montonale 2020 Montunal Lugana from Lombardy (Italy).

8. Merchant Kitchen: Ken Walton serves Korean Fried Chicken—locally sourced, brined, rubbed with spices and served with garlic chili sauce and soy syrup—paired with El Grillo y la Luna 2020 12 Lunas Garnacha (Spain). 9. Thermëa Spa + Resto: Chef Maximus Navarro showcases Braised Angus Beef with peanut-annatto paired with Windstorm 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (California).

in puff pastry. It is served with house pickle and crisp garden greens and paired with Cypress Vineyards 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). 12. Frankie’s Italian Kitchen: Annika Helgason and Chef Jerome Case serve Shrimp Tagliatelle with St. Francis 2019 Chardonnay (California).

10. Junction 59: Jeanelle Hauser serves Country Fried Chicken with OGGI 2020 Pinot Grigio (Italy).

13. Beaujena’s French Table: Chef Randy Reynolds serves his Crispy Pork Belly with pepper jam, sautéed edamame beans, and cheesy polenta paired with Santa Ema 2020 Select Terroir Reserva Rosé (Chile).

11. The Lounge at the Fairmont: The Grand’Mere’s Tourtierre is rich in flavour and history: ground CAB beef and Hylife pork mixed with spices, herbs, cured foie gras, and truffle oil wrapped

14. The Mitchell Block: The Mushroom Pesto Pizza (from The Supreme Macaroni Co. Delivery Menu) pairs perfectly with Benazzoli Agata 2020 Pinot Grigio (Italy).

SIDEBAR

All Players in the Scene By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

A while ago, a cartoon appeared in our local newspaper those of us who would like to snap our fingers and recreate that special meal we had at the same place a couple of years showing a masked server introducing themselves to the table as the server, bartender, chef, prep cook, busser, ago. It might be downright annoying to discover that the take-out we have come to love from our favourite place is dishwasher, and cashier. Another pandemic fallout, I no longer offered because there is not enough staff power thought. Not two days later, a winemaker friend of mine in France said her daughter’s restaurant had just lost a key to produce it. server. The winemaker, who So how ought we to behave? was crazy busy in her own Well, in essence, dining out is work at the time, was planning A FEW SIMPLE like attending live theatre, with to spend her weekend being ENCOURAGEMENTS the added element that the guest server, Sommelier, busser, and FOR BEING A GOOD GUEST. experiences a feast for the palate cashier—well, the similarity Be understanding: Things have changed. There as well as for the eyes and ears. was chilling. might be a lot of staff or supply challenges And like the audience, the guest behind the scenes. is a player in that performance. A Ask anyone in hospitality: the good audience shows up on time, entire industry has been turned Be polite: If you make a reservation, please keep pays attention, and responds at on its head. Staff returning to it or let them know—a few unclaimed tables can the curtain appropriately. In a school, moving home, leaving the spell trouble for a restaurant. restaurant, we receive hospitality industry altogether—these are Be fair: Restaurant wine prices include but we are also players in only some of the changes we have management of inventory, purchases that might the experience. When both seen. But why this is happening is mean months or years of investment, staff time in parties come to this two-way perhaps not as critical a question developing and training, and glassware. (Added relationship in good spirits, the as how the rest of us should to that is the fact that in our beloved province, experience is better for everyone. respond. restaurants do not enjoy liquor discounts—they pay what we pay off the shelf.)

Doug Stephen of WOW Lovers of the dining experience Be kind, which is a guest’s way of appreciating Hospitality sums up the tenor endured shutdowns, restricted the performance. I will stop at suggesting that of the industry: “We were seating, and sudden cancellations. you tip well because that is ultimately subjective. thankful to keep our all our Now we enter restaurants where restaurants going (during the the setting might be familiar, many shutdowns). We just hope and even some of the people, people will continue to be part of the team. We try to look but we might well be greeted, or fed, or served, by someone after our guests, and we hope that our guests will continue to who is doing a double shift, new to the work, or unfamiliar be part of our hospitality family.” with the place. Many wine lists have been refined and slimmed as restaurants have modified or reassessed their So here’s to taking part in the next great performance. wine programs completely. It all might be a challenge for

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The Cellar Door Issue 41: Bordeaux and Blends

Articles inside

Sidebar

Wine & Drinks College Manitoba

Blending Bordeaux

Gary’s Corner

5 Questions for Christophe Reboul Salze

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A Message from Tina Jones

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