The Cellar Door Issue 42: Prosecco

the

Cellar Door Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants

Prosecco

Issue 42 June 2022 – September 2022

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27

contents Features

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27 Creating the Stars Mike Muirhead walks us through the science and magic of creating bubbles.

38 All That Sparkles: A Prosecco Primer Sylvia Jansen gives us a crash course on the most reached-for bubbly in the world.

41 Something New Sparkles in Italy: Prosecco Rosé 48

Jill Kwiatkoski celebrates the official launch of Italy’s pink bubbles.

48 5 Questions for Silvia Zucchi Winemaker Silvia Zucchi talks about the other Italian bubbly: Lambrusco.

51 Summer Grillin’ A trio of wine lovers show you how to eat like a king in this backyard grill-off.

51

JonesWines.com 7

20

contents Columns 12 A Message from Tina Jones

24

14 Ask a Sommelier 16 Jones & Company 20 Shop Local, Globally Coming Up Rosés

24 Profile Tristan and Melanie Foucault, Preservation Hall

30 Gary’s Corner Bubbles!

30

34 Behind the Label Giusti Wines

44 Trending Ice Your Red, Summer’s Ahead!

58 Wine & Drinks College Manitoba 60 Culinary Partners Summer Wine Pairings

34

8 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

62 Sidebar Wine Glass Fashionista

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@thecellardoormag Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Ricki-Lee Podolecki Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Contributors Todd Antonation, Brad Badiuk, Andrée-Anne Boisvert, Josie Duthoit, Erika Fridrik, Devon Gillingham, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Abby Ilchena, Tina Jones, Mike Jones, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Alyona Lyubytska, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Anton Sikorsky, Jenny VanDenDriessche, Dylan Watkins, Leah Watkins Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants

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a message from tina jones When there is sparkling wine in my glass, the occasion instantly seems more special, the conversation more vibrant, and the world a lot brighter.

The special quality of sparkling wine to lift our spirits is exactly what inspired us to bring Prosecco to the stage for this issue of The Cellar Door.

Prosecco is a huge player in the wine world, dwarfing production from Champagne in France and, in fact, any other single category of sparkling wine. But at the same time, it is a category of sparkling that calls us to understand its many faces better and to appreciate its beauty more.

Not long ago, I was lucky to share a glass of Giusti Asolo Prosecco with Mr. Giusti himself at his wine estate in the hills of Asolo in northern Italy.

It was a remarkable experience. Mr. Giusti’s connection to the land, his understanding of grape growing, and his respect for the winemaking that brings the bubbles to life were so sincere that my appreciation for his wines—and in fact, for quality sparkling in general—deepened.

I invite you along to explore the bubbles we know as Prosecco. We introduce you to Mr. Giusti and Giusti Wines by inviting you “Behind the Label.” Our team delves into the methods of making wine sparkle and into the big and sometimes confusing world of Prosecco wines. We catch up with Silvia Zucchi, a talented winemaker in another important Italian sparkling category, Lambrusco. In addition to a crash course in our new summer rosés (still and sparkling), we also share advice on what reds are great for chilling this summer. Finally, join us in my backyard for our favourite summer grilling recipes and wine pairings.

I hope you pour a glass of sparkling and settle back to read every page.

I guarantee the bubbles will make the occasion more special.

Cin Cin,

Tina Jones

12 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

ask a sommelier When hosting a gathering and making a variety of appetizers, I often struggle with pairing the wine. I want to provide a variety of food—from shrimp to pork kebabs! But what can I offer in their glass that will be yummy to go along with everything?

—Heather Racano Great question, Heather! I have lots of options for you!

First off, bubbles. Prosecco or Cava is always fun for a party, and both can pair nicely with a variety of foods. Umberto Baccichetto nv Prosecco Frizzante (Italy, $21.99) is lively and crisp with just a hint of fruitiness, and Raventós Rosell nv Reserva Brut Cava (Spain, $19.99) has floral notes, zesty citrus, and a hint of almond.

For whites, you can’t go wrong with an elegant Grüner Veltliner such as Rabl 2020 Langenlois (Austria, $19.99) with notes of white pepper and steely minerality, or try a crisp and vibrant Turbiana like Selva Capuzza 2019 San Vigilio (Italy, $22.99). Stay away from anything too fruit forward, sweet, or oaky, as that will overpower food.

As for reds, stay away from big, juicy jam bombs and anything oaked or too earthy, as they can overpower your lighter fare like seafood or poultry. Try Massolino 2020 Barbera d’Alba (Italy, $31.99), a lush, vibrant, full-bodied red with soft tannins and bright acidity. Young Tempranillo, like Pinuaga 2019 Colección (Spain, $28.99), is also bright and vivacious with hints of fig, plum, sweet tobacco, and herbaceous notes.

—Jill Kwiatkoski Why are there so many grape varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape?

For the record, nine of the 13 varieties are red (noir) and four are white (blanc), but seven exist as distinct variants—noir, rosé, gris, and/or blanc—for a total of 22 possibilities!

Considering that a wine may contain from one to all varieties in any combination, Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines constitute an enormous range of producer-specific blends. Lucky us.

—Gary Hewitt What is the best way to preserve bubbles if I don’t finish the bottle in one sitting?

—Arroll Stewart It seems to me that opening bubbles comes with too many misguided rules. “Bubbles are only for celebrations”?

False—if that is the case, getting through Monday should be a celebration. “It is only our welcome wine”? Incorrect— bubbles are some of the most food-friendly wines out there.

“I don’t want to waste it if we don’t drink it all”? Well, you don’t have to!

The best way to preserve your sparkling wine is with a reusable champagne stopper in a cold fridge. The specialty stopper locks under the collar of the bottle, so it doesn’t go flying off, and cold temperatures keep the carbon dioxide more soluble (meaning it saves more bubbles for later). Your second-best option is a cork (but I can’t guarantee it won’t pop in the middle of the night!).

—Brenda Scott Historically, vineyards in the south Rhône Valley hinterland of Avignon were interplanted with many varieties. Over time, certain varieties were favoured for bringing certain traits to wines. In the early 20th century, a famous winegrower named Joseph Ducos published his “dream formula” of 10 grape varieties for the perfect red wine. This greatly influenced Baron Pierre le Roy de Boiseaumarié of Château Fortia, who codified the 13 permitted grape varieties in the creation of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation Contrôlée (the very first AC in France and the model for appellation systems around the world).

14 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

And for the record, I have heard of the spoon-in-the-bottle method. From all of my research online and in person (far more than I care to admit on both counts), this is still just a myth that will not go away! I am sticking with my champagne stopper.

—Mike Muirhead

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Alyona Lyubytska: Morande Estate 2020 Reserve Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley, Chile ($17.99)

Josie Duthoit: Quercia al Poggio 2018 Chianti Classico Tuscany, Italy ($31.99)

Mike Muirhead: Heron Ridge 2020 The Flight Chenin Blanc Western Cape, South Africa ($23.99)

Devon Gillingham: Zucchi nv Marascone Lambrusco di Modena Emilia-Romagna, Italy ($19.99)

Brad Badiuk: La Posada 2020 Tempranillo La Mancha, Spain ($39.99/3L)

Dylan Watkins: Pikes 2020 Clare Red Clare Valley, Australia ($18.99)

Ricki-Lee Podolecki: Pikes 2020 Clare White Clare Valley, Australia ($18.99)

Abby Ilchena: El Grillo Y La Luna 2020 12 Lunas Blanco Somontano, Spain ($25.99)

Erika Fridrik: Fattoria II Muro 2019 Sassone Bianco Tuscany, Italy ($15.99)

16 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

what we’re drinking

Leah Watkins: Pago Calzadilla 2016 Opta La Mancha, Spain ($27.99)

Jill Kwiatkoski: Baglio Oro 2020 Mezzaloro Vulari Bianco Sicily, Italy ($15.99)

Todd Antonation: Adega de Penalva 2020 Indigena White Blend Dão, Portugal ($14.99)

Saralyn Mehta: Il Palazzo 2021 La Curia Rosé Tuscany, Italy ($17.99)

Jenny VanDenDriessche: Rocca di Montegrossi 2019 Chianti Classico Tuscany, Italy ($32.99)

Anton Sikorsky: Raventós Rosell nv Brut Nature Rosé Cava Penedès, Spain ($19.99)

Gary Hewitt: Zucchi 2020 Vino Frizzante Secco Lambrusco dell’Emilia, Italy ($18.99)

Ian McCausland (our photographer): Some Young Punks 2021 Passion McLaren Vale, South Africa ($27.99)

Lisa Muirhead (our publisher): Laurent Miquel Père et Fils 2020 Rosé LanguedocRoussillon, France ($16.99)

JonesWines.com 17

Canadian-owned by the most incredible visionary of the Prosecco area. www.giustiwine.com

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Prosecoo Rosalia DOC Rosé Millesimato 2020 The ideal bubbles for any occasion.

Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut

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Coming Up Rosés

By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

It’s that glorious time of year once again, and I want to sing with joy from the rooftop: “Rosé season is here, my friends!”

It’s my favourite time of year: warm weather is upon us, the grass is green, flowers are blooming, patios and decks are set up, cottages are open, and the lake is calling our name! Summer makes rosé taste even better. We’re moving away from those glorious full-bodied reds that have warmed our hearts and souls by the fire all winter long, so it’s the perfect time to make friends with the new, refreshing rosés we brought in this season.

This time of year not only brings us warmer days spent outside but lighter foods as well—we barbeque more, salads are in season, and fresh garden veggies are on our plates—therefore, our wine pairings must adapt. Rosé is the perfect match to summer fare because it doesn’t overpower our plates or our palates.

Our buying team at Jones & Company has tasted over 700 rosés in search of the best tasting and the best values. We are the rosé experts! This year alone, we tasted 102 new rosés—and only 26 made the cut to join our other 38 selections on the shelves.

It’s not easy: we put a lot of care and heart into our choices. We want to know our wine producers; we want to support quality wines that hands have touched and that are created with care.

We choose smaller productions, and we also love to bring you unique grape varieties and styles.

I have six new rosé producers from around the world to tell you about. They are all new and unique to our store this year. Give them a try—I guarantee you’ll find some new favourites!

Photo courtesy of Domaine Montrose

Maison Lelièvre (France) From the Côtes de Toul in northeastern France bordering Germany, Luxembourg, and Belgium, we bring you three unique rosés from this fourth-generation, family-run organic winery. In this small, unique region, a father and his two sons created these most original and interesting rosés that are sure to pique your interest. One is a style that may be new to our readers: “Gris de Toul” rosés can be a single varietal Gamay or Pinot Noir, or a blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir, and/or Auxerois.

Lelièvre 2021 Empreintes Gris de Toul Rosé (Gamay) ($26.99) Lelièvre 2021 Gris Pique Nique Rosé (Gamay & Pinot Noir) ($23.99) Lelièvre 2021 Gris de Toul Rosé (Gamay & Pinot Noir) ($21.99)

20 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Pulenta Estate (Argentina)

Longavi (Chile)

The Pulenta family has been producing wine since they emigrated from Italy to Argentina in the early 1900s. To celebrate 100 years since the arrival of the first generation in Argentina, in 2002 the Pulenta brothers started Pulenta Estate. Their S’il Vous Plait rosé is made from 100% Merlot and is absolutely elegant. This beauty spends a few months on the lees, giving the wine a beautiful light raspberry cream note, with hints of blackberries, tart rhubarb, and cherry. You’ll be saying RSVP a lot this summer: “Rosé, S’il Vous Plait!”

As many of you know, part of my heart lives in Chile, so I have a bit of love for this amazing country and all the wine beauty it brings. Our friend Julio Bouchon of Bouchon Family Wines has started a fun project, working across the globe with his friend and business partner, David Nieuwoudt, in South Africa to bring Longavi to the world. From organic vines that are over 100 years old, this unique blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Pais spends eight months in old French oak barrels and is unfiltered and unfined.

GLUP! rosado is indeed one of a kind.

Pulenta Estate 2021 S’il Vous Plait Rosé ($29.99)

Longavi 2021 GLUP! Rosado ($22.99)

Il Palazzo (Italy)

Domaine Montrose (France)

Il Palazzo is small family-run winery from the rolling hills of Tuscany. Made from 100% Syrah, the La Curia rosato (that’s “rosé” in Italian) is a beautiful wine with notes of raspberry, pomegranate, pink flowers, and a hint of slatey minerality.

Domaine Montrose’s organic vineyards live in Languedoc, only a few kilometres from the beautiful Mediterranean Sea in the south of France. Domaine Montrose is a family-run winery that goes back nine generations. They are organic, carbon neutral, and committed to protecting the woods and grasslands that surround them. They produced the wonderfully fresh and vibrant Solis Lumen rosé in not one, not two, but THREE different sizes! All are lightweight, recyclable, and eco-friendly formats that preserve the wine’s quality while reducing the winery’s carbon footprint. A blend of Grenache and Cinsault, Solis Lumen rosé has notes of tart cranberry, hints of watermelon, zesty citrus, and red fruits with fresh acidity and a hint of minerality.

Il Palazzo 2021 La Curia Rosé ($17.99)

Bodegas Alconde (Spain) We have been working with this amazing winery from Navarra for over 15 years!

Alconde produces some of our bestselling Spanish wines, from unoaked Chardonnay to both entry-level and beautifully aged Tempranillo from their vineyards in Rioja. Once famous in our store for their Lo Nuestro rosado (that’s “rosé” in Spanish), Alconde has done an amazing job revitalizing their wines and image, always staying fresh and consumer friendly. This Sardasol rosado is the perfect summer sipper for a weeknight barbeque or on a hot summer day.

Domaine Montrose 2021 Solis Lumen in three formats: 250 mL ($6.99), 750 mL ($18.99), and a 3 L box ($55.99)

Alconde 2021 Sardasol Rosé ($13.99)

JonesWines.com 21

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The Local Team Behind Your Technology

When you think of Rogers, what comes to mind? Is it your cell phone plan? Is it integrated collaboration tools for a modern workplace? How about streamlining your business operations through the Internet of Things? Truthfully, if you are thinking about any technology for your business, you should be thinking about your local Rogers team.

The first critical component of bringing the modern workplace to life is connecting people. This spring, Rogers announced a strategic alliance with Microsoft to revolutionize communications in the new “hybrid” workplace. For example, the Rogers networks and support team power Operator Connect for Microsoft Teams—which offers all-in-one voice calling with improved availability and responsiveness from anywhere and across multiple devices.

Rogers is more than just a Canadian-owned business: it is a company that likes to keep things local. Their data centres store your data within Canadian borders, Cloud solutions like these make it even easier to optimizing both privacy and recovery options; the national collaborate with both staff and customers without help centres keep jobs within the Canadian market; and needing to buy or maintain costly Rogers invests in the communities it onsite infrastructure. This is all part serves: a $1 billion investment is Everyone on our team is of workplaces adapting to the needs currently dedicated to expanding local: we’re Manitobans of both employees and clients— connectivity to Western Canada’s helping Manitoba businesses retain underserved rural and remote taking care of Manitobans. crucial talent in the province.

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In Manitoba, the local Rogers team works as a unit, so each of their customers benefits from their decades of experience. “A lot of people think of Rogers as a huge national company, but everyone on our team is local: we’re Manitobans taking care of Manitobans,” says Sarah Scott, Enterprise Account Executive.

When you approach the team for business solutions, you will find a holistic approach to problem solving. Using your current systems as a starting point, the team listens to you to determine what is working, what is not, and what can be built upon. “We live and operate in a hyper-local way, but we have the whole breadth of Rogers behind us,” adds Kristen Budgell, Enterprise Account Executive.

That strength means that Rogers is on the cutting edge of defining what it is to work in the emerging modern workplace.

The second critical component of modern business is to digitize all operations. The Internet of Things (IoT) is about connecting multiple smart devices and assets, then analyzing and operationalizing real-time data to improve your business. IoT aims to raise productivity, optimize safety, and, frankly, make businesses more profitable.

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PROFILE

Tristan and Melanie Foucault Preservation Hall Photos by Ian McCausland

Preservation Hall’s name immediately calls to mind Chef Tristan Foucault’s reputation as Manitoba’s progenitor of the house-cured charcuterie board featuring his pickles and preserves. However, once you hear the full story of Tristan and Melanie’s dream restaurant opening, you might be tempted to hear an echo of another theme in there: perseverance.

The pair began their new culinary adventure in 2019 with an ambitious renovation to turn what was a craft beer pub into a French-inspired eatery that focuses on sustainable farm-to-table fare. Tristan brings over 20 years of culinary experience, including education at the Dubrulle Culinary School in Vancouver and stints at The Four Seasons Hotel, and Thomas Keller’s two California restaurants: Michelin 3-Star The French Laundry and Bouchon Restaurant.

During his tenure as chef-owner of Peasant Cookery, Tristan met Melanie. Melanie’s background in marketing and managing the front of the house were the perfect pairing for an auspicious start to a new restaurant concept. Then COVID hit. Following its launch in June 2020, Preservation Hall was open for only 26 of its first 52 weeks. The pair has persevered with grace and positivity that is enviable, emerging with an exciting menu that balances fresh and traditional, meat and plant-based options. In addition, their wine list recently won the prestigious Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, which recognizes the breadth of choice of quality producers and how it pairs with their food.

On the unique challenges of being partners in business and life: Surprisingly, there are very few challenges—or not as many as you might expect. We get along extremely well, and we are both working toward a common goal. The only real challenge is finding the right work/life balance and allowing ourselves a mental break from the restaurant from time to time on our weekends.

24 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

The secret ingredient in your fridge: Tristan: My not-so-secret ingredient is pork. It’s the most versatile protein we work with. We can honour the animal effectively. We use all different cuts and have almost no waste: we can use the off-cuts to produce our charcuterie; the front legs become fresh sausage, pâtés, and tourtière. That leaves us with chops, pork belly (which we dry brine and smoke into bacon), and ribs, all of which we serve on our menu.

The most interesting current food trends: Being as local as you can be. With all the supply chain issues, it’s in all of our best interests to keep it as close to home as we can. A second trend is taking what you can at the height of its flavour and preserving it for the times of year you can’t get great local produce. We’ve been preserving meat and pickling for a long time; however, we are always looking for ways in which we can do more. This summer will be our first attempt at preserving enough brandied cherries to last us the year for our craft cocktails.

If you weren’t in the restaurant industry: Melanie: I would likely still be working in marketing. I was a marketing professional for six years before I fell in love with the hospitality industry. Ten years after I made the career change, my dream of opening a restaurant was fulfilled.

Tristan: My dream job would be a professional offshore fisherman, ideally based out of Cabo.

Favourite wine: Luca Old Vine Malbec. The wine has a lush nature, with its concentrated black fruit aromas, hints of oak, and silky tannins. It has a wonderful freshness and pairs beautifully with our house-made charcuterie. We are lucky to have the same taste in wine. It makes it so much easier to share a bottle!

Favourite kitchen gadget: Tristan: The Grillblazer Su-V gun that Melanie got me for Christmas two years ago. It’s a flame thrower that can sear a steak in 30 seconds. And it’s fun!

Pork Chop with herb spätzle, kraut slaw, and mustard crème fraiche

Favourite cookbook: Tristan: Anything from Thomas Keller, but especially The French Laundry Cookbook. It was my first fine dining cookbook bought for me by my late mother, and it’s still one of my favourites. After spending time working at The French Laundry in 2005, I started to understand what it takes to deliver that calibre of food. No tricks, no fads, just trying to elevate ingredients to the best that they can be. I also love how they treat everything in the restaurant, from their guests to their suppliers. They spare no expense or time to deliver an amazing experience.

Favourite place to eat on your day off: Melanie: We love the food and ambiance of Scott Bagshaw’s restaurants. He was a childhood friend of Tristan’s, and Mâqué was where Tristan and I had our first date, Enoteca was where we celebrated our first year of dating, and Passero was where we went the day Tristan proposed.

House-Made Charcuterie

Favourite food travel destination: San Sebastian in Spain, where you can go from some of the world’s best Michelin 3-Star restaurants to walking around the streets eating pintxos, going from one place to another drinking Txakoli, a dry white wine. Also, the cider is amazing. Any chef that visits San Sebastian makes the journey to Etxebarri, where they cook each dish over a freshly cleaned grill and charcoal they make themselves.

Their prix-fixe menu features the greatest from the ocean at that time.

Pacific King Salmon Tartare

JonesWines.com 25

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Aging bubbles in the cellar

Creating the Stars

By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier, ISG, CMS How much do you want to spend on your bubbles? Is it between $15 and $1,000? You’re in luck: that is the price range of sparkling wines we carry in the store. Many factors play into the pricing of sparkling wine, but they break down into four main ones: production, supply and demand, marketing, and quality. While breaking down the details of factors two and three could take up a magazine of its own, the first—wine production—is the most interesting.

In its most basic form, trapping carbon dioxide in wine is as easy as attaching wine to a Soda Stream (I do not suggest trying it… it did not go well). Adding carbon dioxide to a wine and then sealing the bottle is commercially easy, but it also offers the least amount of quality—see, for example, that 80s favourite, Baby Duck.

The most expensive process is the Traditional (or Champagne) method. After a base wine is created, a small amount of sugar and yeast is added to a bottled wine and then it is sealed with a crown (beer) cap. In a secondary fermentation, the yeast eats the sugar, which produces not only alcohol but also carbon dioxide—hence, your tiny bubbles.

An alternative process is the Charmat method (also called the tank or Martinotti method), which mirrors the quality of the slow secondary fermentation, but does it without nearly as much labour. Instead of re-fermenting a wine in individual bottles, the secondary fermentation takes place in a large tank and then the sparkling wine is transferred (under pressure) to the bottle. This means far less handling and saves on costs; however, some special Traditional method characteristics— like toasty notes, creamy texture, and smaller bubbles—can be lost in this process.

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Charmat (Tank Method) CHARMAT METHOD Grapes

Base Wine

Grapes

Base Wine

Add Sugar Add Sugar & Yeast & Yeast

Second Second Fermentation Fermentation Under Pressure Under Pressure

Filter Under Filter Under Pressure Pressure

Dosage

Bottle

Dosage

SUGAR

YEAST

Prosecco

Sekt

Because of the cost saving in labour in the Charmat method, wines from even the best vineyards of Prosecco are often seen as great value. We are starting to see some wines come in at over $30, but as it stands right now, Prosecco is one of the truly great values of the bubbles world.

This German wine is set for a comeback.

Sekt was once made of cheap sparkling wine to supply a thirsty local market that has one of the highest bubble consumption rates in the world. Made with the very sparkling-friendly Riesling variety, it now has quality producers making wines in both Charmat and Traditional methods. Watch for new German sekts hitting our shelves this fall.

Giusti nv Asolo Brut Prosecco Superiore, Italy ($29.99)

Glossary: Riddling: the process of gradually tilting and rotating bottles to a vertical neck-down position. Gravity pulls the sediment into the neck of the bottle for easy extraction.

Lees: sediment (yeast cells) that accumulates after fermentation is complete.

Lingenfelder nv Satyr Pfalz, Germany ($81.99)

Tirage: sugar and yeast added to the base wine to induce the secondary fermentation (the one that gives us bubbles).

Disgorgement: removing the accumulated lees from the neck of the bottle.

Dosage: a mixture of sugar and wine commonly added prior to bottling to adjust the sweetness level.

do ppio pa s s o.com

Bottle

Traditional (Champagne) Method TRADITIONAL METHOD

Grapes Grapes

Base Wine

Tirage

Base Wine

Tirage

Secondary Fermentation Secondary in Bottle & in Fermentation Aging Lees Bottleon & Aging on Lees

Riddling & Disgorgement Riddling & Disgorgement

Dosage

Bottle

Dosage

Bottle

SUGAR

YEAST

This method may have originated in the Champagne region, but there are several other high-quality wines made in the traditional method.

Blanquette de Limoux

Cava

These delightful traditional wines are said to have harnessed bubbles over 100 years before the Champenois were documented “drinking the stars.”

Cava is made from indigenous Spanish grapes Xarello, Macabeo, and Parrellada. Cava producers also invented the gyropalette, which speeds up the riddling process and lowers the cost of production.

Vergnes nv Carte Noire Blanquette de Limoux, France ($21.99)

Jaume Serra nv Castelfino Brut Cava Aragon, Spain ($16.99)

Crémant

Franciacorta

Bubbles are produced all over France (Loire, Bourgogne, Bordeaux, Alsace, etc.), and the local grapes produce some great regional styles.

Found in Lombardy, Franciacorta uses three of the permitted Champagne grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc). This style is tremendously complex and elegant.

Caves de Lugny nv Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne, France ($26.99)

Mosnel nv Pas Dose Franciacorta Lombardy, Italy ($58.99)

JonesWines.com 29

Photo by Ian McCausland

GARY’S CORNER

Bubbles!

By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier As a graduate student prepping for finals, Gérard Liger-Belair took a beer break and became mesmerized by the bubbles rising in his glass. Legions of graduate students have surely done the same, but Liger-Belair was a budding young physicist fascinated by fluid dynamics and photography. He thought, “Effervescence really belongs to that category of daily phenomena that naturally engage the imagination; I could just as well be watching the clouds in the sky, flames popping in a fireplace, or waves breaking on a beach.” He was captivated— and his career path was set: he became a “bubbles addict.”

Liger-Belair’s research involves high-speed microscopic photography and a “little physics know-how.” His photographs reveal details invisible to the naked eye, details that help explain the sensory effects of bubbles, details that reveal the magic of sparkling wines, and all is revealed in his accessible treatise on bubbles called Uncorked: The Science of Champagne.

So what does Dr. Liger-Belair’s work tell us about the science of bubbles?

The bubbles in a carbonated beverage are gaseous carbon dioxide coming out of solution. The carbon dioxide is commonly dissolved in a beverage by pumping it in (soft drinks) or by yeast fermentation of sugar (beer or sparkling wine) in a closed container. As long as the container remains sealed so that the pressure is maintained, the carbon dioxide remains in solution; but as soon as the container is opened, the pressure is released and—ideally, when the beverage is poured—it will start to foam.

It was long thought that scratches or imperfections in the surface of a wine glass served as the nucleation point for bubble formation. Liger-Belair’s microphotography showed instead that bubbles form on impurities stuck to the glass walls, in particular, paper or cloth cellulose micro-fibres deposited from the air or by cleaning the glassware. Such fibres have hollow cores that entrap air bubbles when a liquid is poured over them. Carbon dioxide migrates into these bubbles, causing them to expand until they are large enough to bud off and escape, leaving a residual bubble in the fibre to repeat the process. The result is a steady stream of bubbles rising from the same starting point on the glassware.

30 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

A rising bubble rapidly expands in size as more carbon dioxide migrates into the bubble from the surrounding liquid.

This increases the bubble buoyancy so that it rises faster.

The result is a stream of ever-larger bubbles increasingly far apart. Molecules called surfactants—including aroma and flavour molecules—poke their hydrophobic ends into the rising bubbles and hitch a ride to the surface.

At the surface, a dome rises above the liquid surface, and the upper skin of the bubble becomes very thin. The centre of the dome collapses and liquid rushes in to fill the resulting cavity.

This liquid collides in the centre, and the tiny shock wave can shoot wine several centimetres into the air. The surface can be so dynamic that it tickles the nose and we hear the fizz.

In addition, those surfactant molecules spray into the air to enhance aromas or to fall back onto the wine to concentrate flavours at the surface.

Liger-Belair describes all these phenomena and more, including the formation of “flowers” and “galaxies” of bubbles. He reminds us of how bubbles stimulate all our senses. How they sparkle in the light, pop as they burst, tickle the end of our noses, and feel creamy or explosive on our tongues. He reminds us too of Dom Perignon—the famous, nearly mythical Benedictine monk to whom we owe so many technological developments in the making of Champagne— who, upon first tasting an effervescent wine, exclaimed, “Come quickly brothers, I am drinking stars!”

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BEHIND THE LABEL

Giusti Wine

By Julia Jones and Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier As a child, when Ermenegildo (“Joe”) Giusti rode his bicycle past the ruins of the ancient abbey at the edge of his town, he would actually speak to the place: “Someday you will be mine, and I will fix you.” And he did: today, the Abbazia di Sant’Eustachio in Mr. Giusti’s hometown of Nervesa della Battaglia stands as a faithful restoration, home to a museum and conference centre.

This investment is only one example of the powerful connections he feels to his home region and to Italy.

Many people in the wine industry have heard of Joe Giusti, the visionary and driving force behind Giusti Wine. Located in the heart of Prosecco’s best vineyards, Giusti has earned accolades for Prosecco as well as for authentic and beautiful red and white wines from Veneto. However, to truly know him is also to understand his deep love for his ancestral home.

Mr. Giusti emigrated to Canada when he was 18 years old, as did many other Italians who were searching for a better life in Canada. He has always been entrepreneurial and is a respected builder in the construction industries in Calgary and Vancouver. His work has seen incredible breadth and success.

One of the Giusti construction trademarks is to consciously raise the profile of authentic Italian products, using the highestquality Italian ceramic tiles, light fixtures, and finishings—in line with that youthful dream of giving back to his homeland.

“Deep down inside me, there was always this thought that maybe, just maybe, I should have tried this back in my country,” says Mr. Giusti. “That I should have done this back home and helped my own people. That’s a thought that stuck with me for over 45 years, so I decided to invest in my [Italian] province, my hometown, in the wine business. I opened Societa Agricola Giusti dal Col—Giusti Wine. We purchased land, planted vineyards, and donated 2 million euros for the restoration of the Abbazia di Sant’Eustachio and the mausoleum of San Geronimo.” He also restored historic buildings to create the home Giusti winery in Nervesa della Battaglia.

Tina Jones (centre) with Maria and Joe Giusti

the work, using sustainable farming techniques to ensure the land will continue to be healthy for many generations. Insect pollinators and natural predators protect the vines from harmful pests that thrive in the vineyard environments. Fennel and other wild herbs and vegetables are used as cover crops, bringing, in Mr. Giusti’s view, positive influences on his wines’ taste profiles. The cantina was built mainly underground with a vineyard on its roof to preserve and complement the natural landscape. The care he takes in winemaking allows the special Giusti signature of quality and authenticity to shine.

Mr. Giusti’s deep respect for the land and for its history continues to be felt in every facet of Giusti’s activities. A few years ago, on one of his walks in the Montello vineyards near Nervesa, Mr. Giusti discovered the identity tags of a World War Two Canadian fighter pilot. He recognized the symbolic importance of the place, contacted the pilot’s descendants, and personally commissioned a life-size sculpture of the pilot and his plane rising from the very ground where the tags were found. It is a tribute to his Canadian and Italian homes and to his understanding of the powerful connections between the human family and the land.

For Mr. Giusti, the vineyards are like these sacred, historic sites.

Vineyards are never simply real estate on which to plant vines and sell wine: rather, every vine is important, and harvested grapes are an expression of the soul of the land. Whether in the heart of Prosecco’s highest-quality hills in Asolo or for elegant red wines in Valpolicella, he brings this respect for terroir to

34 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

These four Giusti wines are exclusively sold at Jones & Company: Prosecco Asolo Superiore Brut ($29.99), Prosecco Extra Dry ($31.99), Rosalia Extra Dry Prosecco Rosé ($21.99), and Rosalia Extra Dry Prosecco ($21.99).

CONGRATULATIONS to Doug Stephen On the occasion of receiving your Red River College Honorary Diploma in Hospitality and Tourism Management For more than 40 years, Doug Stephen, founder of WOW! Hospitality Concepts, has been a visionary and tastemaker in the Winnipeg hospitality scene.

Doug’s restaurant group—Peasant Cookery, Prairie’s Edge, Bluestone Cottage, Alena Rustic Italian, WOW Catering, and of course, the flagship, 529 Wellington—represent the offerings of an entrepreneur who has guided these successful concepts and more through the trends and tides of the toughest market in the world.

This honour recognizes Doug’s leadership in business, mentorship, and community involvement. Truly, Doug has made a mark on the professional lives of generations of hospitality employees— of Winnipeggers’ celebrations and milestones as his guests.

Photo by Rudy Gauer

just as he has been a host to generations

Jones & Company Cottage Cases I can’t believe they ran out of wine.

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JoCo Cottage Cases are available till the September long weekend.

Cottage Case Red: $149.99 for 12 dry reds

Cottage Case White: $149.99 for 12 dry whites

Cottage Mixed Case: $185.99 for a dozen – a mix of red, white, and rosé

Cottage Case RWB: $179.99 for 12 bottles – a mix of rosés, whites, and bubbles

Reserve Red Case: $209.99 for 12 special reds

Three ways to order: Online: joneswines.com/shop Call: 204.948.WINE (9463) Email: wine@joneswines.com Questions? Text us: 204.400.0499 Store Hours: Monday to Saturday: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. | Sunday and holidays: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

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** Our Guarantee: if you don’t love the wine, bring the box back (full-minus your taster sample) and we’ll return it for the value of that box of wine.

The Church of San Martino overlooks the vineyards in the Prosecco hills

All That Sparkles: A Prosecco Primer

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier Prosecco. The name itself conjures up images of casual conversation, of friends, family, and the lightness of living, glass of bubbly in hand. For many people, Prosecco is one wine—something light bodied and sparkling, never frightfully expensive, a contributor to the event but not the main attraction. Think again. Prosecco is the most reachedfor bubbly almost everywhere in the world, but it is also a wine powerhouse in a variety of expressions.

Origin Story A bit of confusion is understandable: Prosecco may be many wines, but it is one name and one place. Prosecco is a protected name under Italian and European Union wine regulations—so it comes with a strict set of production and

38 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

labelling regulations. The DOC (denominazione di origine controllata, or official Italian delimited region) stretches in a large swath over two political regions (Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia) and nine provinces in northeast Italy, between the Dolomites and the Adriatic Sea, and from west of Vicenza to east of Trieste and the Slovenian border. Within the borders are also hillside vineyards and the wine production areas of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco and Asolo Prosecco, both entitled to the higher DOCG designation.

Prosecco’s production is limited to this zone, but rest assured this is a massive contributor to the Italian—and the world’s— wine scene. In fact, according to the Prosecco Consorzio (the official trade association), no other region matches it for volume: Prosecco is the most widely exported, and the most consumed, protected designation of origin (PDO) wine in the world.

Prosecco DOC Prosecco DOC Treviso e Trieste Prosecco Asolo DOCG Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG

Courtesy of Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC

The large Prosecco DOC produces more than 620 million bottles each year, with an additional 92 million bottles from the hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG and 18.7 million bottles from the (also hilly and relatively tiny) Asolo Prosecco DOCG. In any given year, there is more Prosecco made and sold than the entire wine production of New Zealand and Canada put together.

The Style These are wines of multiple dimensions. Almost all Prosecco wines have bubbles, but some are only lightly fizzy (labelled frizzante) while others are fully sparkling (spumante). The wines can be totally dry (brut nature) to sweet (demi-sec), but most show either a bit of sweetness (extra dry) or are mostly dry (brut), depending on the intentions of winemakers and the desires of a particular market. Most Prosecco wines are white sparkling, but the new rosé category is on the rise (see page 41). The majority are made from the tank method (also called the Charmat or Martinotti method), which generally retains the aromatic quality of the fruit and is a relatively inexpensive way to produce fizz. However, some producers use bottle fermentation, where the wine is released with the lees still in the bottle (Sui Lieviti, also known as col fondo) (see page 28 for more on how to make bubbles).

Prosecco can be inexpensive: the fruit for much straightforward Prosecco DOC is drawn from flatter zones of the DOC and marketed by large producers. However, some Prosecco wines

can be premium quality (with higher production costs and shelf prices). These are usually created by small producers tending steep hillside vineyards in the heart of the region. What is generally true is that Prosecco, even from the best vineyards and cuvées, is an affordable luxury.

Know Your Prosecco Grape varieties: All Prosecco wines must be predominantly (85%) Glera, with up to 15% of other approved varieties, including Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Verdiso, and others.

Authenticity: A small band on the bottle collar bearing a unique QR code, DOC/DOCG level, state, and seal verifies the origin of true Italian Prosecco.

Style: It almost inevitably sparkles (Prosecco tranquillo— with no bubbles— is a rare category) and is generally medium alcohol (between 11% and 12% abv).

Bubbles, lightness, balance of acidity, fruit, and sweetness all combine for a wine easy to pair with many dishes and snacks, on its own, or in cocktails. From prosciutto and melon appetizers to spicy Thai take-out or popcorn, these are wines sure to please. With one name and so many choices, the vast world of Prosecco awaits your discovery.

For fun Prosecco cocktail recipes, follow us on instagram @thecellardoormag.

JonesWines.com 39

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and floral and fruity aromas. It is fresh and elegant o with moderate alcoholic strength.

- Sparkling (>3 atm) Sugar content (g/l): Our Favourites EXTRA

0

BRUT NATURE

3

BRUT

BRUT

6

12

EXTRA DRY

DEMI-SEC

DRY 17

32

50

- Semi-sparkling (1 - 2.5 atm) - Still (<1 atm) CONSUMPTION The wine goes well with the great traditional Italian dishes. Its versatile character matches perfectly to explore new culinary horizons of its ismoderate With($22.99) cuisine. theTheinternational hills of Valdobbiadene: Siro Merotto nv Valdobbiadene made by a small producer in the heart of the region. alcoholic strength, Prosecco DOC can be used family affair: Umberto Baccichetto nv Prosecco Frizzante orgatherings.

Extra Dry (each $21.99) at social and toasts forA aperitifs,

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comes from a family-owned winery that makes delicate frizzante, lightly sparkling to pair with starters, and Extra Dry Prosecco, with finesse and layered fruit character.

HOW TO RECOGNIZE THE REAL PROSECCO A perennial favourite: Botter nv Prosecco Extra Dry ($17.99) is an easygoing Prosecco, DOC? with balanced sweetness—the perfect patio partner. thefromlabel indrawn - Indication Hidden gem: ReassiProsecco nv Prosecco DOC DOC ($23.99) is vines tended in the ancient volcanic hills south of Padova, from the talented winemaker Diego Bonato.

- State Mark and seal Bernie Scheurer Sales Manager 204-988-2655 bernie.scheurer@td.com

PROSECCO

- Made in Italy

How a Grape Became a Place

Charles Gonzales Account Manager 204-988-5239 charles.gonzales@td.com

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M05328 (0415)

PROSECCO DOC INto aTHE LITY SUSTAINABI For a long time, “Prosecco” referred grape variety, to a small village in northeastern Italy, and also to a style of sparkling wine. Not now. continuous pursuing Consortium, The In 2009, to retain the hugely popular wine as their with own, Italian authorities officially technological in connection improvement changed “Prosecco” (wine and grape variety) to “Prosecco DOC/DOCG” (a place). of the the and progress The large region becamewith an official DOC,demand expanded to helpfully include territory the village of Prosecco. The hilly vineyards of Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Asolo qualified for the the path has undertaken the and highest Italianconsumers, designation, DOCG. Moreover, the major approved grape variety was officially no longer “Prosecco” (because that is now a place), “Glera,” said to Sustainable the Certification ofbut rather toward be one of its synonyms. In other words, if you are out of the zone, or out of Italy, you can make sparkling Glera, but cannot make Prosecco. on rigorous and , you based Denomination embracing standards, recognized The hugely popular style instantly became the sole property of Italy. Well, almost. and social l-,the nameeconomicalenvironmenta More than a decade before change, Australia began producing the same bubbly style of wine from a grape variety officially recognized on their books as none other than sustainability.

Prosecco. They were not willing to change. Discussions are, apparently, ongoing.

PRODUCTION METHOD

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Something New Sparkles in Italy:

PROSECCO ROSÉ

By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS) The year 2020 had many milestones we’d like to forget— but one big event changed all of our lives for the better.

Drum roll, please: there’s a wine announcement to make!

In May of 2020, in the northeastern Prosecco-producing wine regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, two hot trends came together to make wine history: Prosecco Rosé became official!

That’s the technical stuff. Now let’s get to the wine!

On May 21, 2020, the Prosecco DOC Consortium changed Prosecco’s production rules for the first time since 2009, announcing: “Prosecco DOC Rosé was unanimously approved by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies’ National Wine Committee.” This means that Prosecco Rosé is now deemed a legal and official style of Prosecco that can be produced in these specific regions and labelled and sold as such.

According to the Prosecco DOC Consortium, the total production of Prosecco Rosé could be over 30 million bottles per year! Prosecco Rosé is big business and a new player in the world of bubbles. Enjoy it—it is here to stay.

The production of “Prosecco Rosé” itself is not a new concept. It has been made for years, but prior to this announcement, Prosecco Rosé was never sold officially under that label—it was just a sparkling rosé. Behind all that fun and sparkle, where the beautiful worlds of bubbles and rosé collide, like all official wine designations in the world, Prosecco DOC Rosé now has rules of production, regulations, and quality standards that must be followed. Among them: they must come from Veneto and/or Friuli-Venezia Giulia; grape varieties allowed are minimum 85% Glera and 10–15% Pinot Nero; secondary fermentation must be by the Charmat Method for a minimum of 60 days in stainless steel tanks; the wine cannot be sold until January 1, following the harvest; and sugar cannot exceed 17 g/litre. Prosecco Rosé can be labelled Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Brut, and Extra Dry but can only be sold in glass bottles that are a single colour (no cans, boxes, or taps). Producers must also follow strict labelling protocols, including printing “Millesimato” followed by the vintage (85% of grapes must come from this vintage) on the label, a paper government label across the foil certifying its DOC status, and a QR code to verify the wine’s authenticity.

Prosecco Rosés have a stunning soft pink hue with beautiful flavours and aromas. Notes of apple, pear, white flowers, and citrus with hints of strawberry and cherry from the addition of Pinot Nero give Prosecco Rosé roundness and depth of flavour.

Celebrate International Prosecco Day on August 13 with one of our new Prosecco Rosés! #ProseccoDay

Colli Euganei 2021 i Fossili Extra Dry Prosecco Rosé ($19.99) Giusti 2020 Rosalia Extra Dry Prosecco Rosé ($21.99) Botter 2020 Extra Dry Prosecco Rosé ($19.99) Sensi 2020 18K Brut Prosecco Rosé ($25.99) Cabert 2020 Villa Marchesi Prosecco Rosé ($21.99)

JonesWines.com 41

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TRENDING

Ice Your Red, Summer’s Ahead!

By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET What’s better than red wine on a cold winter evening? A chilled red wine on a hot summer afternoon!

Most of us swap out our bold reds for whites and rosés at this time of year, but sometimes you just crave the flavours of a red, no matter the season. Although we typically serve red wines at room temperature or just below, there are a handful of fantastic wines that you can stick in an ice bucket to enjoy the best of both worlds.

French (and French-inspired) So many red grapes have their origin in France—but they also have great expressions in other areas of the world. Try chilling these international grapes with French roots: Cinsault, Pinot Noir, Gamay (Beaujolais), and Cabernet Franc.

• Domaine de la Treille 2020 Cabernet Franc Anjou, France ($15.99) • Jean-Marc Burgaud 2020 Les Vignes de Lantignie Beaujolais, France ($26.99) • Thörle 2019 Spätburgunder Rheinhessen, Germany ($24.99) • Craven 2018 Cinsaut Stellenbosch, South Africa ($28.99)

44 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Italian With the diverse styles of Italian wine, there is no shortage of red styles that can chill, including Frappato, Lambrusco, Nerello Mascalese, basic Valpolicella, Barbera, and Kalterersee style wines. For people who like a little bit of sweetness in their wine, give our famous Roscato a go—it’s a frothy dessert wine that has become a staple for many Winnipeggers.

• Bertolani Alfredo nv Oro Secco Lambrusco Rosso, Emilia-Romagna ($18.99) • Tedeschi 2019 Lucchine Valpolicella, Veneto ($19.99) • Benazzoli 2020 Dafne Bardolino, Veneto ($19.99) • Rizzi 2020 Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont ($28.99) • Erste + Neue 2020 Kalterersee Classico, Trentino-Alto Adige ($20.99) • Civittina 2020 Rosso, Sicily ($19.99)

Four rules for chilling your reds: 1. Choose light-bodies wines.

(Low tannin, low alcohol, and high in acidity) 2. Chill wines with little or no oak.

3. Pick wines with lots of fresh red and black fruit characters.

4. Immerse your wine bottle in a bucket filled with half ice and half water. Add table salt to the water if you have it handy. Chill your red for 5–10 minutes; white or rosé can stay in the bucket for 10–15 minutes.

Not sure if your red wine is a candidate for chilling?

Text a Somm: 204.400.0499, and we can help (between 9 am and 9 pm).

Australian We don’t need to tell you that Australia is hot and produces some of the biggest and richest styles of Shiraz in the world. The Aussies quickly discovered that, in order to enjoy reds all year, they needed to make styles that would chill well. Sparkling Shiraz is a unique wine style produced in Australia that contains all the rich characteristics of Shiraz, intertwined with bubbles.

• Majella 2019 Sparkling Shiraz, Coonawarra ($46.99)

Odd Balls You don’t have to stick to traditional wines! A few wines are perfectly designed to be picnic pairings—these come from all over the world and might be a style you have never tried.

• Jan Harmsgat 2019 Pinotage Western Cape, South Africa ($26.99) Pinotage is a crossing of two grapes (Pinot Noir and Cinsaut) created to suit South Africa’s climate. It can have characters of coffee and smoke but still has a similar structure to Pinot Noir, making it a great choice for summer barbeques.

• Artuke 2020 Tempranillo Rioja, Spain ($17.99) This wonderful Tempranillo is made using carbonic maceration to preserve all the fruity character of the wine. The winemaking technique used gives it a lighter, more refreshing style.

• Rabl 2018 Titan Zweigelt Kamptal, Austria ($36.99) Zweigelt, commonly found in Austria, makes wines with bright red berries, minerals, and floral characteristics.

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Available exclusively at

Introducing the newest Civettina in the family...

CIVETTINA ROSSO TERRE SICILANE IGT

Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected

by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!

5 Questions for

Silvia Zucchi, Azienda Agricola Zucchi Interview by Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Italy’s famous fruit-forward dry, red sparkling Lambrusco wines are seeing a global renaissance thanks to the visionary leadership and fresh energy of young, quality-minded producers.

Notable among these is Silvia Zucchi, the young and active head of her family’s wine estate. Azienda Agricola Zucchi has been in family hands for three generations, making expressive, quality sparkling wines from their home in the hills near Modena. Silvia is the first woman winemaker to take on leadership, overseeing both grape growing and production of Lambrusco wines.

Silvia has brought numerous updates to the winery and has begun a longrange project for clonal selection in the vineyard, all with amazing energy and a continued focus on quality. As if all this were not enough, she also recently welcomed baby Francesco into the family. Sylvia Jansen caught up with her to talk about bubbles, happiness, and harmony.

Photo courtesy of Azienda Agricola Zucchi

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1

As the first woman winemaker in your family, what have been some challenges in pursuing your career?

For me, it is a great honour to be the first woman winemaker in my family. I became a mother a few months ago, and now I have two full-time jobs! My organization and priorities have changed a lot—and I must say for the better, because becoming a mother has allowed me to give more value to things and allowed me to optimize everything in my work.

I have always been a person who never gave up an evening with my wines, but for the first time, I started to say no because some things I can resume when Francesco (we call him the “Little Commander”) can come with me.

Lambrusco’s popularity has skyrocketed in the last few years in Canada. How can we help our customers and wine lovers understand the different quality levels and styles of these wines?

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When I go to the wine fair, I often bring small Polaroids with images of the grapes of Lambrusco di Sorbara and Lambrusco di Salamino because the family of Lambrusco grapes is really wide. Each province has its Lambrusco. For example, in Modena, we have three main types: in the plain between the Secchia River and the Panaro River, we have the Sorbara and the Salamino, while in the hills, we find the Grasparossa. And if we move to the provinces of Mantova and Parma, we find others. We must first start from the territory and traditions and then arrive at a Lambrusco that is cultivated.

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What are your favourite Lambrusco food pairings?

Especially in Modena, the cuisine is built on very rich and fatty condiments and dishes. For this reason, the acidity has a palate-cleansing function. Surely, we pair Lambrusco with tortellini and lasagne, but also with salami, tigelle (a traditional Modena flatbread), and gnocco (a fried bread). On the other hand, in Emilia, we also use pork in many dishes. For this, we need a wine to degrease. But I must tell you: the Lambrusco of Sorbara finds a perfect match with eel.

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Why did sparkling wines become so popular in Emilia-Romagna?

Because it has characteristics that are common to two of the most important sparkling wines in the world, Champagne and Prosecco: low alcohol content, freshness, and acidity.

And because our area has a great terroir, there is still a lot to discover. We Emiliani are often called chatty and funny because we produce and drink bubbles. Bubbles are conviviality, happiness, and harmony.

You studied enology at the respected winemaking school in Conegliano, the heart of Prosecco production. Can you explain how two regions so close to one another have developed such different styles of wine?

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Emilia-Romagna and Veneto have their native varieties and have completely different territories, but perhaps this is one of the great fortunes of Italy—to have micro-areas and microzones with vines that can express the best only in those certain areas. In Lambrusco, we have high acidity and important sapidities [flavour profiles], whereas Prosecco has lower acidity and different bubbles.

In Prosecco and Lambrusco, the production methods are the same—the Charmat method for the former and the traditional method for the latter—refermented in the bottle. This method allows us to understand the longevity of this great variety because the second fermentation in bottle can be disgorged (as in the traditional method) or not disgorged. If it is disgorged (as in the traditional method), we get great elegance; if it is unfiltered and not disgorged, we get more rustic wines.

Silvia’s wines, Lambrusco di Sorbara dell’Emelia ($18.99) and Lambrusco di Salamino Marascone ($19.99), are available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants.

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TASTY THIRSTY THURSDAYS

Beaujena’s French Table is pleased to introduce TASTY THIRSTY THURSDAYS, an extraordinary once-a-month event in aid of charity, featuring a sensational seven-course dinner expertly paired with seven exceptional wines. Very limited numbers of tickets are available. See our website or Facebook (@beaujenas) for details.

Open each Saturday for our seven-course prix fixe dinners by reservation only.

In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave.

www.beaujenas.com | 204.233.4841 | beaujena@shaw.ca

Summer Grillin’

By Mike Muirhead, Todd Antonation, and Mike Jones Photos by Ian McCausland The beautiful simplicity of grilling lends to the easy days of summer. A nice cut of meat from your local butcher, a simple marinade, garden herbs, and some fresh veggies from the farmer’s market (or your own garden) are all you need for a meal fit for a king.

Or three kings, if you will: Mike, Todd, and Mike threw down the grilling gauntlet to prepare a feast of meats—smoked, marinated, and grilled—paired with wines ranging from light and food-friendly to truly decadent.

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VEAL CHOPS WITH FRESH HERBS Serves 4–6 14–16 oz 2 tbsp 1 tbsp ½ tbsp 1 tbsp

veal chops fresh sage, chopped fine fresh thyme fresh rosemary, chopped fine olive oil pepper to season

Preheat your barbeque to high. Brush the chops with a light coating of olive oil and cracked pepper. Place the chops on the barbeque and grill for 3 minutes. Rotate 90 degrees after 3 minutes to achieve the grill mark “scoring,” then cook for another 2 minutes.

52 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

For medium-rare, turn the chops over and spread the herb mixture on the top side (to taste*), leaving some for the presentation. Cook for another 3–4 minutes. Move the chops to rest on the top rack, covered with tin foil. Chops are ready when the internal temperature reaches 120°F. *If you make chops for a larger group, simply use more herbs in these proportions: 2 parts sage, 1 part thyme, and ½ part rosemary.

PAIR WITH: Domaine Rapet Père et Fils 2018 Blanc en Caradeux Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Chardonnay Burgundy, France ($95.99) Tedeschi 2018 Capitel Nicalo Valpolicella Veneto, Italy ($25.99)

SHOP LOCAL: We bought our veal chops from DeLuca’s South Landing. Our flank steak and beef ribs came from Marcello’s Meats—ask for ribs cut from a rib roast. We visited Luxe Barbeque Company for their vast selection of smoker chips and seasoning to flavour the corn on the cob (we used Chili Lime Wing Dust). Our colourful vegetables were sourced from local farmers through Jardins StLéon Gardens. The fresh herbs were straight from Mike Jones’s garden.

Barbeque Corn: Soak corn in husks for 30 minutes. Peel back the husks—but do not remove them. Remove all the silk and leave 2–3 leaves covering the outside of the cob. Grill on medium heat for 12–15 minutes, turning often. Serve with butter, salt, limes, and chilli powder. We sprinkled them with Chili Lime Wing Dust from Luxe Barbeque Company.

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Hello summer, we missed you!

GENE VIE VE MCC WINES - BOTRIVIER , SOUTH AFRIC A .

5 GREAT REASONS TO TRY CANNED WINE THIS SUMMER: (NOT THAT YOU NEED THEM)

1 / Compact, light, and look how cute and pretty they are!

2 / Perfect sipping size, so you can try ALL the wines.

3 / Light, recyclable, and environmentally friendly.

4 / Great for cooking (save your bottle for the table).

5 / Simple and delicious – a perfect summer pairing.

Profoundly changing the Manitoba landscape from a pin-hole view of South African wine to a dazzling panorama.

LU B A NZ I

S PI ER

Chenin Blanc $6.99

Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc & Rosé $5.99 each

Featured wines available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants.

GRILLED FLANK STEAK Serves 4–6 1 ¼ cup ¾ cup 2 tbsp 4 1½ tsp 1

flank steak soya sauce canola oil white vinegar cloves garlic (minimum), minced fresh ginger, grated green onion, chopped (plus more for garnish)

Combine all of the ingredients and marinate the steak in a sealed bag—a minimum of 24 hours, though three days is even better!

Preheat the barbeque to 450°F, then turn it to low to cook. Grill the steak for 6 minutes per side for medium-rare until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 125°F. Let the meat rest for at least 15 minutes under a foil cover. Slice thin against the grain of the meat and serve.

PAIR WITH: Artuke 2020 Pies Negros Tempranillo Rioja, Spain ($26.99) Printhie 2018 Mountain Range Malbec New South Wales, Australia ($22.99)

SMOKED RIBS Serves 4–6 beef long ribs salt & pepper to season wood chips for smoking

BBQ Sauce 2½ cups ½ cup ¼ cup 1½ tsp 2 tbsp 2 tbsp ¼ tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp ½ tsp tsp

ketchup molasses white wine vinegar liquid smoke white onion, minced brown sugar sea salt chili powder onion powder garlic powder cayenne pepper

BBQ Sauce: Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and mix well. Bring the sauce to a gentle boil over medium heat then reduce to a simmer for 10 minutes. Leftover sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 months.

In a kettle barbeque or Big Green Egg, start your coals burning. Soak wood chips—in this case, wine barrel pieces—in water for 30 minutes while the barbeque heats up.

To remove the silver skin from the back of the ribs: use a butter knife to get under the skin and lift it. Once you have some leverage, use a paper towel to grab the skin and pull it back, then trim with a knife.

Season ribs with salt and pepper (generous on the pepper), and cover with cling wrap until the barbeque is at temperature.

Pile your coals to one side and add wood chips. Once they begin to smoke, place the rack of ribs on the side without coals (for indirect cooking). Cook at 275°–300°F for 90 minutes.

Brush on the barbeque sauce for the last 10 minutes, reserving some to serve. Place the ribs over the coal side to caramelize. Remove from heat and let the ribs rest for 10 minutes. Cut and serve with a side of barbeque sauce and lots of napkins.

56 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

PAIR WITH: Liberalia Enologica 2018 Monte Hiniesta Tempranillo Toro, Spain ($21.99) Marietta Cellars nv Old Vine Red Lot 71 Zinfandel Geyserville, California ($32.99)

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WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.

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WSET® programs are the gold standard in wine education, offered in more than 70 countries. Wine & Drinks College Manitoba has trained Manitoba’s WSET and Sommelier graduates for over a decade, and many of our alumni have pursued careers as industry leaders. Our teaching staff has an unmatched depth of experience, subject expertise, and passion. In 2022, 11 students attended our WSET® Level 3 program, dedicating 13 weeks of deep study to the world of wine, including key factors in production of location, grape growing, winemaking, maturation, and bottling, as well as how and why these factors affect the style, quality, and price of wines. These students also learned advanced tasting techniques, building on their ability to assess wines accurately and to use their understanding to confidently explain wine style and quality.

Michael Au, 529 Wellington I love wine, but the more that I studied wine, the more I realized how much I didn’t know. I took the course to expand my awareness of wine and tasting skills. The instructors, Gary, Sylvia, and Ricki-Lee, are incredibly knowledgeable and passionate, and they made themselves available as a resource to succeed, even outside of class time. I wouldn’t have had opportunities for structured tasting where we analyzed entry-, mid-, and premium-level wines without this course. My taste in wine has changed: it’s broader now than it was before. I understand why I liked my specific styles and regions, and I still love them, but now they are not the only ones I reach for.

Marnie Ladd, 529 Wellington I like that the instructors each teach what they are passionate about. I appreciate the different teaching styles because you learn in a broader way, and it makes the learning more fun. The first two levels of WSET are accessible—you learn varietals and regions. Level 3 requires some work, so if you are interested in the course, you should be passionate about wine. I would recommend the course to people who love wine, cuisine, science, and even geography—you learn so much about the science of winemaking and about how soils, mountain ranges, and climate affects this huge piece of our culture.

Levi Warne, 529 Wellington All three instructors brought something valuable and their own unique style to the classes they taught.

Ricki-Lee has vast knowledge, especially for someone so young; Gary has this encyclopedic knowledge; and Sylvia and I are passionate about the same regions, so I always studied extra hard for her classes. But outside of the classroom, whether it is Mike doing some education at the restaurant or shopping in the store after class, there is no uninterested party at Jones & Company. There is an unpretentious love for wine that is fostered in everyone in that building.

Sign up for the fall offering of WSET Level 3 at JonesWines.com/education.

Classes start September 12, 2022, and are held at Jones & Company Wine Merchants at 1616 St Mary’s Rd.

Call it your favourite bag.

Call it beautiful.

Just don’t call it a fanny pack!

Banana available in a variety of colours

1 7 5 m c der m o t a v e. · 2 0 4 . 9 4 3 . 1 0 6 8 · w w w . u n l u gga ge. c o m Cellar Door Ad.pdf 2 2022/5/2 12:10:45

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culinary partners

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Cheers to our restaurant partners who have emerged from a tough first half of 2022 to offer you these summer pairings.

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3. Prairie’s Edge: Smoked Goldeye Eggs Benedict on focaccia with hollandaise sauce, a fruit cup, and hashbrowns is not complete without Codorníu Mediterrania Cava Brut (Spain).

1. Bluestone Cottage: Eva Fisher recommends Vinadeis Reserve St. Martin Rosé (France) with the Smoked Salmon Breakfast.

4. James Avenue Pump House: Our extra-large Perogy with Creamy Dill Sauce and Grilled Kielbasa pairs well with the River Retreat Pink Moscato (Australia).

2. The Mitchell Block: Our summer favourite is Sparkling Bertolani Oro Lambrusco (Italy), which goes beautifully with our flourless Dark Chocolate Cake served with sour cherries, sweet house-made ricotta cheese, and dehydrated chocolate mousse (the Lambrusco also pairs well with our Spicy Chorizo Pizza!).

5. VG at the Fairmont: Blackened “ASC” King Salmon Fillet with a citrus and fennel emulsion, pickled apple and celeriac slaw, an orange segment micro green bundle, and chive caviar cream is complemented by the floral, cherry, and red fruit notes of the Claude Val Rosé (France).

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6. 529 Wellington: Siro Merotto Extra Dry Prosecco (Italy) pairs perfectly with pan-seared, Prosciutto-Wrapped North Atlantic Scallops on a bed of sautéed spinach.

7. Beaujena’s French Table: Lobster Risotto with fennel, seared scallop, and flying fish caviar find their match in Mullineux Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc (South Africa).

8. Peasant Cookery: Its juicy acidity makes the Domaine du Haut Fresne Coteaux D’Ancenis Gamay Rosé (France) a memorable pairing for the Mediterranean Tarte Flambée’s tricky toppings: arugula pesto, crème fraîche, blistered tomatoes, artichokes, roasted red peppers, Spanish onions, feta cheese, and balsamic glaze.

9. Alena Rustic Italian: Norah Eldridge recommends Pizza Alena paired with La Ragnaie Troncone Rosso Toscana (Italy).

10. Bellissimo Restaurant & Lounge: Claude Val Rosé (France) is divine with the Aragosta pasta: lobster meat, tiger prawns, house-made bacon, tomatoes, sherry wine cream sauce, and spaghetti are topped with jumbo butter-basted scallops and green onions.

11. Bonnie Day: Lisa Kehler, our Front of House Manager, pairs Petite Pie with Chantovent Bistro des Mets Rosé (France).

SIDEBAR

Wine Glass Fashionista

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

There was a time when a Champagne glass had a flared top that perched inside a larger bowl with water to rinse out the sediment—at the time, a useful function. Somewhere, we graduated to a Champagne saucer to let the fizz fly. Then it was the most fashionable thing to drink bubbles from something resembling a test tube to hold in the fizz. On one visit to France not long ago, I tasted Champagne from small flutes, large tulip glasses, and even larger, rounded balloon-shaped glasses, depending on the establishment’s approach. For still wines, we have gone through almost every conceivable shape, from triangles to tulips to tumblers, and every size from shot-glass-volume to the size of a small beachball. We have collected cut lead crystal because a matched set of really heavy stemware was terribly fashionable. We have turned to coloured glasses that matched the dining room décor and to silver goblets that matched absolutely nothing. We have lifted glasses painted with sayings like “That’s what the rim is for” or “Hold my calls” to match our mood. The wine glass world has truly been ruled by form and fashion over function.

Not so long ago, a passionate glassmaker decided that every different wine should have a different glass. The function was no longer simply to hold liquid or suit the moment but to interpret the grape variety as it met the palate. That function was expressed in a thin blown-glass design. As a response to the dizzying array of choices, glass designers are now offering up the universal glass (something many tables had all along, but just by accident, and not usually like these new designs).

How to select from these? Consider for a moment the functions of the wine glass. Some people will say that if it holds liquid, it is a good glass. Beyond that, we should

62 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

expect a glass to allow us to assess the wine’s colour and appearance and to interpret and appreciate the aromas and flavours we love so much.

If we translate these functions to design, that takes us to a vessel that is inert, transparent, and unadorned by markings, engravings, or cut designs, with a bowl taller than it is wide. A thin rim allows the wine to flow onto the palate (really, this is true) much better than if it spills out from a rounded, coffee-mug-like rim. Usually, this dictates that the vessel is also made of glass. The stem is also useful, by the way: that glass stick allows the taster to swirl the wine and invite aromas to lift. A stem also means the wine will stay cooler (provided the user holds said stem and not the bowl). A poolside or patio calls for something unbreakable, so enter the insulated stainlesssteel tumbler. Here, functions of safety and convenience rule over transparency (and hold the wine closer to the desired temperature).

All things considered, the glass that brings the best from the wine is the best glass. For sparkling, I confess to being in the stemmed, blown, simple universal glass camp. But because I realize that the first obligation of a wine glass is not to leak, I am always open to sampling from what my host offers. I also recognize that fashion will unfold into new possibilities and that some of us will never give up our sentimental favourites. What to do with those test tube flutes? Pour in your favourite bubbly, slide in one of your reusable steel straws, and sip a nice patio fizz, knowing that you are doing what you want to do and staying terribly fashionable while doing it.

So here’s to you, fashionably.

Showroom: 969 Fife Street, Winnipeg 204.586.2794 I www.yarrow.mb.ca

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