The Cellar Door Issue 47: Grenache by Poise Publications

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Cellar Door Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants

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GrenAche I S AI YOUR NEW SOMMELI ER?

Issue 47 February 2024 – May 2024

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contents Features

22 You Already Love Grenache Sylvia Jansen introduces you to the best friend you never knew you had!

29 Quiz: What Type of Grenache Are You? Abby Pelechaty designed the perfect quiz to launch your personal Grenache odyssey.

42 Wine & Technology: Sommelier vs. AI 48

Mike Muirhead launches a new series on how new technology is (and is not) shaping our wine experience.

48 Wine Trends on Wellington 5 Questions for Michael Au, Wine Director at 529 Wellington.

50 Winnipeg’s International Table Recipes from Winnipeg’s international community— and the wines that love them.

Cover: Original art by Leigh McKenzie (leighmckenzieart.com)

JonesWines.com 7

contents Columns 12 A Message from Tina Jones

14 What We’re Drinking 18 Behind the Label Calzadilla

EARN FREE WINE!

34 Gary’s Corner The Great Reveal Jones & Co

38 Trending

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Putting Wine Into Words

40 Shop Local, Globally 43

Old World vs. New World

43 Jones & Co Rewards 44 Profile Chef Emily Butcher, Nola

58 Wine & Drinks College Manitoba 60 Culinary Partners Earn Points on EVERY Purchase

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8 Shop Local, Globally

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Just What Do Mean, Reserve?

X EU ET E IN L L ST R U M E OF UG O KL RO 2.99 $3

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Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com

Wine gets better with age Technology needs upgrades

Editorial Board Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Manon Paquin, Abby Pelechaty, Ricki-Lee Podolecki Graphic Design Garfield Street Media info@garfieldstreet.ca Original cover art by Leigh McKenzie leighmckenzieart.com Contributors Todd Antonation, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Liz Kaye, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Krista Mailey, Ian McCausland, Leigh McKenzie, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Gina Navarro, Manon Paquin, Abby Pelechaty, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Malcolm Roberts, Anton Sikorsky, Emanuel Soares, Rick Watkins Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

For advertising information, email lisa@poisepublications or visit poisepublications.com/the-cellar-door. Canada’s Digital Adoption Program (CDAP) allows your business to access up to $15,000 to engage an expert consultant through the Boost Your Business Technology grant. Let us assist you through every step of the process – and help you uncork your potential through the strategic use of digital technologies.

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In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463 JonesWines.com | @joneswinemerchants © 2024 Poise Publications Inc.

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a message from tina jones It is a function of human existence: we tend to take for granted, or even blur out, things that we see frequently or consistently. These elements impact us and they influence our behaviours, even if we are barely conscious of them. Think for a moment about Grenache. Think about artificial intelligence (AI). This issue of The Cellar Door is devoted to peeling back the layers of what we take for granted. In our online shopping, we are now quite accustomed to seeing a tidy package of alternate “suggestions,” but most of us never think about how those suggestions have been generated. Mike Muirhead tackles this issue of AI in the wine world. Its impact for us as wine lovers is tremendous, and Mike starts what should be a good ongoing conversation! We also consider a grape variety that is dominant in many great wines and everyday favourites, but one that we tend not to think about as important. Grenache does not have the cult status of Pinot Noir or the curb appeal of varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz. But when we take a good look at this often-blended variety we wonder: why not? There is a lot to celebrate with Grenache. We invite you to discover the breadth and depth of Grenache. The capabilities of this variety and its wine greats are the focus of our feature. We examined our store collection of Grenache and Grenache-based wines and found incredible options in a wide range of colours and styles. Abby Pelechaty’s fun quiz will help you find your perfect Grenache match! Jill Kwiatkoski takes it global to examine the differences—and growing similarities—between Old and New World wines, while RickiLee Podolecki teaches us how to ask for the wines we want. And we continue our tradition of exploring wines from the inside out: Gary Hewitt talks about developments in European back labels, and Sylvia Jansen scratches the surface of some front-label talk. As always, we look forward to sharing our world of wine with you.

Tina Jones

12 Shop Local, Globally

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Abby Pelechaty: Reassi 2020 Antichi Frizzante Pinello Veneto, Italy ($19.99)

Todd Antonation: Lange Twins 2020 Chardonnay California, USA ($28.99)

Malcolm Roberts: Monteraponi 2021 Chianti Classico Tuscany, Italy ($51.99)

Emanuel Soares: Fabio Motta 2020 Pievi Rosso Tuscany, Italy ($36.99)

Liz Kaye: Finca Martha 2022 Merlot Mendoza, Argentina ($21.99)

Gina Navarro: M. Chapoutier 2017 Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France ($29.99)

14 Shop Local, Globally

what we’re drinking

Rick Watkins: Leitz nv Non-Alcoholic Rosé Reingau, Germany ($17.99)

Mike Muirhead: Radley & Finch 2021 Lazy Hare Shiraz Western Cape, South Africa ($24.99)

Jill Kwiatkoski: Martin Berdugo 2022 Verdejo Rueda, Spain ($22.99)

Manon Paquin: Zinck 2020 Portrait Pinot Gris Alsace, France ($34.99)

Krista Mailey: Pinuaga 2020 Colección Castile-La Mancha, Spain ($35.99)

Saralyn Mehta: Brancaia 2021 No. 2 Cabernet Sauvignon Tuscany, Italy ($56.99)

JonesWines.com 15

BEHIND THE LABEL

Calzadilla By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier Calzadilla started as a “crazy” dream of Celia and Paco, parents of Paula Uribes, the trained biologist and winemaker with international winemaking experience who currently runs the estate. This small family winery is located an hour east of Madrid on the high plateau of central Spain. With 22 hectares of vineyard planted on agriculturally untouched soils (free of chemical residue), the winery has the rare Vino de Pago designation awarded to exceptional single estates. As such, it is the smallest demarcated wine region in Spain. The remote but beautiful location “in the middle of nowhere” boasts limestone soils on hillsides ideal for radical and biological viticulture. Calzadilla’s artisanal, handcrafted, minimal-intervention wines made from Garnacha, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah speak eloquently of their unique location.

From left to right: Pago Calzadilla 2021 Matelot Garnacha Blanca Vino de la Tierra de Castilla ($34.99) is an elegant, fullbodied white wine with white peach character and a long finish with an engaging bitter catch at the end. Pago Calzadilla 2017 OPTA ($35.99) is a red blend of Tempranillo (60%), Syrah (20%), and Garnacha (20%) aged 12 months in French and American oak casks of various sizes. It is an energetic wine with vivid red fruit character, oak spice, licorice, and savoury herbal notes. Pago Calzadilla 2015 Classic ($34.99) is an oak-aged blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, and Syrah with grace, intensity, and finesse. It is in perfect form with still youthful fruit, silky tannins, and a long finish, but built for further aging.

18 Shop Local, Globally

Paula Uribes (photo courtesy of Calzadilla)

From the beginning, the project aspired to create a beautiful estate integrated into the environment. Today, the calm serenity that envelops the property with only the sound of birds and the breeze attests to their success. Calzadilla’s classic labels express the winery’s three foundational pillars: the land, the family, and the vineyard.

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You Already Love Grenache By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier It is the bass player in a wine symphony, giving warm, deep tones to a special occasion wine. It can make a dinner special with its smoothness, body, and enticing perfume. It is a generous everyday sipper, and it lends itself well to a host of rosé wines. This is Grenache, possibly the most overlooked and important grape variety in the wine world.

22 Shop Local, Globally

In France, plantings of Grenache are second only to Merlot. It surpasses even the famous Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its ancestral homeland is Spain, where it is also among the most planted. Additionally, the grape variety makes red wines in Italy (especially Sardinia), as well as Australia, the United States, and South Africa. However, because

names—and not the grape name—Grenache’s leading role remains obscured. Winemakers who work with Grenache have an infectious enthusiasm, respect, and love for it. Jason Haas of California’s Tablas Creek Vineyard points out, “Grenache is lovely on its own (thank you, Pinot Noir, for convincing people that wines can be worthwhile and full of flavour without being inky), but it is also a beautiful complement to deeper, more tannic grapes like Syrah and Mourvèdre. And it is the world’s best rosé grape!”

Marta Rovira Carbonell in the Grenache vineyards in winter (photo courtesy of Mas d’en Gil)

A multitude of rosé wines from France and Spain owe their style to Grenache as their main player. Tavel from the Rhône makes arguably among the finest, most structured examples, while many other Grenache-based rosés can be pale and easy, perfect for the summer patio. And Grenache is adaptable! Some experts claim that it might be the most likely candidate to survive, perhaps even thrive, in an era of climate change. The Grenache vine is a heatlover, requiring a long season to ripen fully. It grows best in regions where the ground is dry and stony, summers are hot, and drought can be a hazard, making the scrubby lands of its Mediterranean homes particularly good for Grenache to thrive. Grenache grapes are also rather thin-skinned with lower tannin levels, giving character and lushness at the same time. When ripe, sugar levels are high, and because sugars are fermented to alcohol, Grenache wines can be full bodied and dry with very high alcohol, giving weight and full body. Its acidity tends to the soft side, and flavours are typically driven by red fruit and layered with spice.

Jason Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard (photo courtesy of Tablas Creek)

these wine labels often show appellation (place) names, Grenache’s leading role remains obscured. Regional wines like Côtes du Rhône, Rioja, and village appellations like Lirac and Châteauneuf-du-Pape all depend on Grenache, but the main variety—Grenache—is not listed on the front and often not on the back label either. This important variety lives in the twilight, largely due to its best quality. Grenache is a beautiful blending partner. It is hidden in plain sight in southern France blends, planted in Roussillon, through Languedoc, the southern Rhône and into Provence. In Spain, it is common in northern Catalonia, through Navarra, Rioja, and farther south. However, because these wine labels often show appellation

The age and the care of the vineyard determine the differences between everyday and ultra-premium Grenache. Marta Rovira Carbonell, winemaker and principal of Mas d’en Gil in Priorat, Spain, explains that young vines can be productive with good fruit and floral notes if the vineyard has been well tended. Old-vine Grenache, on the other hand, gives a very different picture. “So long as the old vines are well cared for,” says Marta, “the fruit becomes more concentrated because yields reduce as vines age.” In the winery, red Grenache can be unoaked to show fruit, spice, everyday enjoyment, and an ordinary price tag. Its red skins can see measured contact with the juice to produce a pale (or deeper) rosé. Old-vine Grenache can benefit from oak ageing to achieve an enticing mellowness, additional layered complexity, and depth. In short, Grenache gives us many wines, many places, and many occasions—you need only look for it! While it may be hidden, it always shows up to play.

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A GRAPE BY ANY OTHER NAME You might be drinking Grenache and not even know it! The grape’s ubiquity across the world’s wine regions means that it has many synonyms. Watch for these grape names to spot Grenache in different regions: France, Australia, and the United States: Grenache Spain: Garnacha, Alicante, Aragones, Garnatxa Italy: Cannonau (Sardinia), Tai Rosso, Tocai Rosso (and many more…)

Hidden in Plain Sight A good blend is better than the sum of its parts. Grenache blends generous fruit, spice notes, nice power, mouthfeel, and weight with soft edges and layers of red fruit and spice. The grape has its own history and character in each of the regions in which it is grown. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France: Taking its name from “Pope’s new castle” from a time when the papal court was moved to Avignon in the 14th century, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is an important region in France’s southern Rhône Valley. The wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape owe much of their character to old-vine Grenache. Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines can be white, red, or even rosé, but most are red. There are 13 permitted varieties, and where blends are used, Grenache is most often the dominant. It can also be the sole player. Priorat, Spain: This is a small Spanish region with a big reputation. Located inland and southwest of Barcelona, its stony soils, summer heat, and small yields lead to powerful, concentrated red wines (and a few whites) that owe their pedigree to old-vine Grenache. “Grenache is our main player,” says Marta Rivera-Carbonnel of Mas d’en Gil. Rioja, Spain: This Spanish region is best known for the iconic Tempranillo, but Garnacha is an important partner alongside other varieties in Rioja blends (including Graciano and Mazuelo). Garnacha has not always been highly regarded, but with older vines and careful tending, there are many winemakers who would not blend a Rioja red without it. California, USA: The last decades of the 20th century saw a group of producers change California’s wine landscape to

include Grenache in the mix. Tablas Creek of Paso Robles was among those recognizing the similarity between the warm, dry, stony soils of Paso Robles and those of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They set about to bring quality vine cuttings to their vineyards and nurtured what became known as the “Rhône Rangers” movement—California producers who embraced Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, among other Rhône varieties. South Australia: Grenache was first planted in South Australia in the mid-1800s when its drought tolerance was critical. It was first used in fortified wines, but as wine fashions changed, it was pulled in favour of other varieties. Today, we see two main styles of Grenache: concentrated wines from surviving small patches of old vines and the “G” in GSM—the Australian take on Rhône red blends of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. South Africa: The Grenache in South Africa was first used in anonymous bulk blends and fortified wines. Its quality potential is evident from a few producers who are guarding tiny parcels of precious old vines. Adi Badenhorst of Swartland holds the oldest known South African vineyard of Grenache vines, the gnarled bush-vine Raaigras vineyard.

WHITE GRENACHE Grenache has several variants, in several hues, but Grenache Blanc (as it is known in France) or Garnacha Blanca (in Spain) is the most common. This light-skinned version shares full-bodied and richly perfumed characteristics with its red twin.

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Saxum 2020 GSM James Berry Vineyard, Paso Robles, California ($395.99) Tablas Creek 2019 Rouge Esprit de Tablas Paso Robles, California ($99.99) Alain Jaume 2020 Le Miocène Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France ($86.99)

SPECIAL OCCASION

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Noon Winery 2018 Eclipse Grenache/ Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia ($89.99) A.A. Badenhorst 2020 Raaigras Grenache, Swartland, South Africa ($73.99) Mas d’en Gil 2014 Coma Vella Priorat, Spain ($55.99)

A LITTLE TREAT

David Moreno 2016 Reserva Rioja, Spain ($29.99) Domaine Lafond 2022 Roc-Épine Tavel Rosé Rhône, France ($29.99) Kilikanoon 2021 Killerman’s Run GSM Clare Valley, Australia ($26.99)

EVERY DAY

Pikes 2019 Clare Red Syrah/Grenache Clare Valley, Australia ($19.99) Zorzal 2020 Garnacha Blanca Navarra, Spain ($24.99) Sardasol 2019 Garnacha Navarra, Spain ($18.99)

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QUIZ:

What type of Grenache are you? By Abby Pelechaty

1. How do you shop for wine? A. Ask a Wine Expert. B. Research the wine before going into a store. C. Grab the best-looking label. D. Grab your favourite bottle—who wouldn’t love it?

2. How would you approach a blind tasting? A. Just drink it—it’ll probably taste good. B. Describe the wine’s flavour profile and structural elements. C. Question why I have to be blindfolded. Half the fun is in seeing it! D. I’d know if I like it or not from that first sip.

3. You have to paint a brand new room in your house. What colour do you choose? A. I’d have to check with the other people who live in the house. B. White or cream—something timeless. C. I’m thinking of a colourful mural. D. The same colour as the rest of the house.

4. When researching a wine, what do you look for? A. The family story—who makes the wine, how long have they been making it? B. Give me all the technical details: winemaking techniques, the type of soil, where the vineyard is located, when and how the grapes are harvested. C. I’m more interested to know if the wine tastes good! D. Tasting notes—I need to make sure I will like the flavour profile.

Flip the page to find out your optimum wine pairing!

5. You just won the lottery. How are you spending your money? A. Planning a trip with my friends and family to create memories together. B. A trip around my favourite winemaking country to explore all of the regions and wines they make there. C. A new set-up for my favourite hobby. D. Making a donation to a charity that is near and dear to my heart.

6. How do you like to get your exercise? A. Curling in the winter; ball in the summer. B. My Peloton bike. C. Yoga. D. Jogging or hiking.

7. You’re cooking a special meal at home and want to pair a wine to the dish you are creating. What do you do? A. Choose a wine that I know my guests love. B. Read up on food pairing theory and select a wine that will go great with the dish. C. Think outside the box—let’s try a pairing that I haven’t seen before! D. Keep it simple: red wine with red meat and white wine with fish. Why change what works?

8. What does your ideal Saturday night look like? A. Spending time with family and friends—it doesn’t matter where, as long we are together. B. An amazing dinner with food hand-crafted by a local chef. C. A paint night at a local bar. D. Movie night at home.

ANSWERS:

What type of Grenache are you? If you chose mostly “A,” you’re “The Best Friend”: choose Pikes Clare Red Syrah/Grenache Calle Valley, Australia ($19.99)

If you chose mostly “C,” you’re “The Artistic One”: choose Pinuaga Tinto Garnacha/ Tempranillo Castile-La Mancha, Spain ($17.99)

Just like this Shiraz/ Grenache, you blend perfectly with those around you, making you the perfect complement to any gathering. Need a bottle of red to brighten a dull Tuesday night? This Grenache is easy, reliable, and versatile for food pairing.

Just like this label, you live life in vivid colour and choose to surround yourself with beautiful things. You are a true craftsperson who often has at least one creative project on the go.

If you chose mostly “B,” you’re “The Sophisticated One”: choose Domaine Lafond Roc-Épine Rouge Côtes-du-Rhone, France ($27.99)

If you chose mostly “D,” you are “The Girl Next Door”: choose El Grillo y la Luna 12 Lunas Garnacha Aragon, Spain ($28.99)

You always bring the best bottle of Old World wine at the party—clean, classic, and timeless.

You are down-to-earth and prefer all things clean and simple. You love confident single-varietal wines without all the bells and whistles.

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GARY’S CORNER

The Great Reveal By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier Do you ever wonder what is in your wine and turn to the back label only to find … no further information? Many people are challenged by the lack of meaningful information on wine labels. But times are changing—and these changes could influence how we choose our wines. As of December 8, 2023, all wines released in the European Union (EU), domestic or imported, require a label showing ingredients and nutritional information. This legislation— more than 10 years in the making—is the greatest modification of wine labelling since France’s 1919 laws protecting regional names on labels. While there is no similar legislation in Canada (yet!), we will soon begin to see the new EU labelling in our market. Since early discussions in the 1970s, wine producers have resisted nutritional labelling on the grounds that wine is a “natural product” with a long history of safe production and a traditional place at the table. Besides, wine bottles are beautiful, and all that extra information would be ugly. However, the modern consumer has legitimate demands that wine follow the same legally mandated dietary labelling available on its other food and beverages. As for wine being a “natural product,” many consumers (rightly) suspect that some wines result not from some simple natural process but from sophisticated technology. The new regulations consider both points of view, providing convenient access to ingredient and nutritional information while minimizing the scarification of labels with “ugly” details. New labels will offer four key pieces of information: energy value (caloric content), intolerances or allergies, a nutritional declaration, and a list of ingredients (see a sample on page 35). The nutritional declaration may be of little interest because wine does not include salt, protein, or fat, whereas the caloric content may attract a lot of attention. Spanish winemaker Esther Pinuaga of Bodegas Pinuaga thinks that consumers will begrudgingly acknowledge that wine, unlike water, is calorie-rich and may alter their buying habits. Alternatively, the list of ingredients has terrific potential to reveal differences among wines. Ingredients, additives, and

34 Shop Local, Globally

adjuncts with a health-related attribute (allergens) must be listed on the bottle. A short list of ingredients will generally indicate a more natural wine, whereas a longer list will indicate greater intervention. Rainer Lingenfelder of Lingenfelder Estate in Pfalz, Germany, is “especially happy to comply as it’ll help us to communicate our minimally invasive approach. Consumers will then be able to decide if they want to buy and drink pure wine or a well-made alcoholic beverage.” To further accommodate producers’ concerns, mandatory information can be augmented by additional information accessible electronically—for example, using a QR code on the back label. The linked information must be specific to the wine and must not contain additional advertising. This will allow full disclosure without information overload on the physical package. Undoubtedly, the new legislation will have consequences. Increased label design costs will be passed on to consumers (this will have a greater impact on small producers). Consumers will almost certainly favour wines with fewer additives. As a result, producers will alter their production methods, minimizing the number of additives listed by using physical methods that achieve the same outcome. For example, clarification using an adjunct (like casein, a milk protein) could be replaced by filtration. Lingenfelder suggests that for many consumers, the label details “need to be interpreted, explained, and put into context. A highly educated expert or team of experts at a serious wine store doesn’t become obsolete with more information on a QR code on the Internet. I am convinced the opposite is true.” As a serious wine store, that’s music to our ears. Clearly, the simple, clean design of one-word labels such as “Chablis” or “Chianti” is a thing of the past. As consumers, we have embraced wine-industry changes such as screwcaps, wine in bags and cans, and orange wine, so why not nutritional labelling? Change is in the air—there is no doubt that nutritional labelling and more (e.g., health warnings) will come to Canada. We will adapt to nutritional labelling, and in time, it will seem normal.

MAKING SENSE OF THE LABELS The EU document* outlining the regulation provides extensive tables defining ingredients, additives, and adjuncts. It provides insight into how technological winemaking can be. Here are the basics: An ingredient is any substance, including flavourings, additives, or enzymes, used to manufacture a food product that is still present in the finished product, possibly in a modified form. An obvious ingredient is grapes; a less obvious one is Mega Purple, which intensifies red colour in wine. A food additive is any substance intentionally added to a food product for a technological purpose (such as prevention of oxidation, like sulphites) that remains whole or as a derivative in the food product. An adjunct is any substance voluntarily added to achieve a technological objective (such as using egg whites for clarification) that may result in residues present in the food product. *EU Document 32019R0934.

Your specialist in commercial, residential, and luxury real estate. REA ROUSSIN 360 McMillan Ave rea.roussin@century21.ca C (204) 795-1253 | O (204) 453-7653

The 529 Terrace … A Wellington Oasis In the midst of a Winnipeg winter, let’s take a moment to anticipate the renewal of warmth and colour that summer promises. The terrace at 529 Wellington is one of the wonders of summer. Resting on the edge of the Assiniboine River and sheltered by giant old-growth Winnipeg elms, you will find a refuge of dappled light, brilliant petals, crawling ivy, and gentle water features that absorb the sounds of the city and transport you out of your everyday life. Each spring, Doug Stephen and his team collaborate with the landscape artists at Ron Paul Garden Centre to create a space that feels simultaneously international and very local. Flowers carefully chosen to thrive in the Prairies harmonize with stone and wood water features and the ivy-laced walls of the historic Ashdown House. It is the ideal setting for a romantic lunch getaway, afternoon cocktails, or a celebration with family and friends featuring Canada Prime beef, fresh seafood, an award-winning wine list and carefully curated cocktails for the season.

TRENDING

Putting Wine Into Words By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET

You would think that it would be simple for me, a wine professional, to figure out what wines my mom enjoys. However, her ability to explain what she is tasting is a bit obscure. My only real clues are if she goes back for a second glass or, alternately, makes a face reminiscent of a kid being forced to eat broccoli. Breaking this communication barrier between the wine professional and professional drinker is one of the greatest challenges faced by Sommeliers—and one we take on happily. Sommeliers are trained to taste using a systematic approach that allows objective evaluation of a wine’s quality. We smell, taste, and make our conclusions using a rigid checklist of criteria. However, the words we use to describe a wine don’t always make sense to our customers. For example, the word “fruity” often makes a customer think of sweetness, whereas to a Sommelier, it means that fruit characteristics are apparent even if the wine is dry. So, if we are seemingly speaking different languages, how can you explain what you want in a wine to your server or wine expert? A good way to open these lines of communication is by using some simple technical wine lingo along with some more approachable ways of dissecting a wine’s flavours and structure.

Taste with TABS Tannin Acid Body Sweetness

Acid: After you take a sip, how much does your mouth water? Does it remind you of lemon juice, or do you prefer something soft and creamy? Taking a moment to think about which of these interactions you prefer can open up the conversation. Body: Describing the type of body you like in a wine can be difficult, but a simple way of explaining it is to compare the mouthfeel to that of milk. Skim milk is light-bodied, whereas whole milk is full-bodied. Now ask yourself, are you looking for a light-bodied, easy-drinking wine or a full-bodied sipping wine?

While most people think that describing a wine is about pinpointing the exact flavours they detect, the most important consideration is actually how a wine feels on the palate—in other words, the structure. Structure can be broken down into four categories, using the acronym TABS, which stands for tannin, acid, body, and sweetness.

Sweetness: Many people automatically think they want completely dry wines (meaning the absence of any sugar). However, sweetness in a wine can help balance other components like acidity (think of how sugar balances the tang of lemons in lemonade). A better way of explaining sweetness would be to describe what balance of acid to sweetness you prefer: do you like your wine tart, sweet, or somewhere in between?

Tannin: Tannins provide texture and can affect the body of a wine. To detect tannins, focus on a drying feeling around the gums. Low or soft tannins can be described as silky; medium tannins are velvety; and high levels of tannins can be powerful and mouth-filling (on the good side) or aggressive or coarse, depending on the wine and your preferences. Tannin is most notable in red wine because it is derived from contact with the skins of grapes.

My mom understanding the TABS method means we not only speak the same language, but I no longer have to see her broccoli face. Next time you are tasting or explaining a wine, think about these categories. They open up a world of wines to discover and will make you an expert in asking for—and getting— the wines you love!

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Let the Worlds Collide By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

In wine circles, you will often hear references to “Old World” and “New World” wines—but what exactly is the difference? Let’s start at the beginning of time—or the beginning of wine anyway. In wine speak, the term “Old World” refers to wine regions in the continents of the Eastern Hemisphere (Europe, as well as some smaller regions in the Middle East, Northern Africa, and Asia) in contrast to the New World, composed of the Western Hemisphere (North America, Mexico, and South America) and the Southern Hemisphere (South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand). The Old World is rich in ancient history, culture, theology, art, science, philosophy, and, of course, viticulture! In countries such as Italy, France, Portugal, and Spain (where we source the majority of our Old World wines at Jones & Co.), viticulture, wine, and winemaking are deeply ingrained parts of their history and culture. Whether it’s a glass of Chianti with your pasta, a bottle of Burgundy with your duck à l’orange, a glass of Port with your stilton cheese, or a frasco of wine with your paella, there is always a bottle of wine on the dinner table in these countries (yes, even the children are allowed to have a sip at the dinner table). The principle at the heart of Old World winemaking is that their wines express the terroir of their specific region—this is the essence of Old World wines. When you open that beautiful bottle of Maison Harbour Preau Côte de Nuits ($127.99), you are teleported to the heart of Burgundy: you can practically smell the air and taste the ancient soil the vines have grown in for decades. When you have that first sip of the glorious Zarate Albariño ($34.99), you can taste the salty Spanish sea air as the wine dances on your palate. Old World wines express the unique and specific characteristics of their regions. Their land shapes their wines. I could talk about the Old World for days, but let’s explore the New World: the Americas, the Southern Hemisphere—the new kids on the block (no, not those cute ones from the ’90s boy band). New World countries were colonized by European settlers who brought their

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history, culture, and way of life to these new-to-them worlds. Winemaking traditions in the New World are far more recent (meaning they have been producing wine for centuries, not millennia). The New World is often characterized by big, bold wines with higher alcohol; innovation and experimentation with different blends and non-traditional production methods; and modern labels and “fun” names for both wineries and wines. New World wines tend to focus on the grape variety rather than where that grape variety hails from—and they are not shackled by the traditions and regulations that can shape Old World wine regions. When you open that bottle of Jax Cabernet Sauvignon ($101.99), you know it will be bursting with big juicy notes of black currant, black cherry, baking spice, and cedar that will take over your palate. You know that bottle of Undurraga Terroir Hunter Carménère ($42.99) will offer beautiful inky/purple juice with notes of grilled bell peppers, sweet/ smoky tobacco, blackberry, cherry, and cocoa powder because that is what Carménère promises. New World wines express the grape variety—they focus on what is inside the bottle rather than where that wine originates.

Comparing Old World to New World wines is a dance between history and the evolving wine world. This decadeslong evolution has seen Old World wineries experimenting with modernity in their wines and winemaking techniques— they are trying leading-edge production methods, novel varietal blends, cool graphic labels, and promoting their wines on social media. Evolution in the New World has seen producers showcase their terroir to highlight a sense of place, embrace their family winery traditions, and win awards on the world stage.

We use these categories of Old and New World to help people find the styles of wine that they love. If you prefer savoury, high acid, firmly tannic wines, then one of our wine experts might suggest a classic Old World wine, whereas if your tastes run to fruity, less acidic and riper tannins, then they might steer you to a New World wine. But the wine world is ever-evolving, so I recommend these Old World winemakers experimenting with new techniques: Brancaia 2021 Tre Rosso Tuscany, Italy ($37.99)

We make a distinction between Old and New World wines because they come from different traditions. But that is neither a good nor a bad thing! Whether you love Old or New World wines, always remember that wine is from a place. And that is important because wine is made by generations working land that has been through harvests that thrived and those that did not; it is part of history. And that, itself, is the beauty of the wine, no matter where in the world it comes from.

…and these New World winemakers looking to Old World traditions to find new expressions of their grapes: Mullineux Family Wines 2020 Kloof Street Rouge Swartland, South Africa ($32.99) Briar Ridge 2021 Cold Soaked Cabernet Sauvignon New South Wales, Australia ($28.99) Tawse Vineyards 2020 Grower’s Blend Cabernet Franc Niagara Peninsula, Canada ($31.99)

Adega Cooperativa de Penalva 2020 Milénio Red Blend Dão, Portugal ($21.99) Alpha Estate 2019 Hedgehog Xinomavro Amyndon, Greece ($37.99)

OLD WORLD

NEW WORLD

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WINE & TECHNOLOGY

Sommelier vs. AI By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG), CMS* Wine Lover: “I would like to pair a wine with salmon.” AI: “Sounds great! How about Poseidon Chardonnay, Napa County, California $49.99.”

Wine Lover: “I would like to pair a wine with salmon.” Sommelier: “Sounds great! Red or white? What is your budget? What current favourites are you drinking? Is there anything that you absolutely hate about wine? How are you preparing the salmon? Is there a sauce? What are the sides? Are you trying to impress a bunch of wine nerds, or do you just want everyone to be happy? Cork or screw cap? Do you want a safe pairing or an ‘out there’ pairing? …”

We have been evolving our online store for a long time, and since long before the world’s favourite buzzwords were ChatGPT and AI, our developer has been suggesting we add a wine-pairing feature based on an algorithm created by our Sommeliers. I have always resisted this option because I still believe the point of being a Sommelier is not simply connecting a wine with a meal but a wine with a person— which requires some more three-dimensional questioning. Most Sommeliers go into this profession for two reasons: first, we love wine, and second, we love connecting with people. The wine study is actually the easy part—3 years of courses, sitting a 2-day exam with 35 wines tasted blind, essays, short answers, a service exam, and multiple choice. Learning about wine is easy if that is what you love! Being a Sommelier is much more difficult—it is about reading people and trying to tease out their wants and needs while minding their budget and trying to understand how they want to feel about the experience. That is why the question, “What do I pair with salmon?” is not as straightforward as it looks. Are you having a glass on a Tuesday evening in the middle of winter as you are trying to get your kids ready for hockey? Or is it for a barbecue in the summer with your new boss? There are so many followup questions to simply “What are you eating?” When it comes to the meal, pairing a dish isn’t just about what you are serving but also how you prepare it. Do you tend to use a lot of garlic? Do you choose to cook without salt? Do you use chicken in your beef bourguignon? As any 42 Shop Local, Globally

aspiring chef knows, a recipe is purely a guideline, and a Sommelier can guide you through the nuances of your dish and how it will pair with different wines. We once had a customer come in and ask us to pair a wine with “locking myself in the garage to listen to Johnny Cash really loudly after a terrible day.” Good luck with that one, ChatGPT. (We suggested Method Cabernet, by the way— and the customer left a little happier than when he came in.) I also believe it is my job as a human to connect people who love wine. Now, more than ever, wine lovers are looking to connect with winemakers who share their passion for specific aspects of wine, whether that is organic production, natural winemaking processes, or multigenerational family wineries. The story of a wine can create a bond between the winemaker and wine lover. It is foolish to think that AI will not infiltrate the wine world—it already has. In the race to generate more and more data to improve service, most retailers are diving blindly into any method they can to leverage this information for better insights into their customers’ preferences. At the end of the day, there will still be food on the table and a bottle of wine that will suit the mood, the dinner, or—even better—both. And like good company, Sommeliers bring something to the table that cannot be replaced by AI. *This article was written by Mike Muirhead, Sommelier, with the help of spell check and a very talented editor.

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CHEF PROFILE

Chef Emily Butcher Nola

Photos by Ian McCausland Growing up in the Fraser Valley outside of Vancouver, Chef Emily Butcher was surrounded by food: gardening and salmon fishing with her parents; cooking with her father; her Mom’s family owned a butcher shop in Vancouver’s Chinatown; her grandmother was a private cook in China and then a private school cook in Canada; and her great-aunt owned a diner. One might think that cooking was an obvious path. But life isn’t linear, and Emily took her studies very seriously. A classically trained dancer and pianist, she studied music at UBC. Then, an open interview at Local Public Eatery (she applied to be a part-time hostess) led her down a culinary path when the Executive Chef asked if she might prefer a spot in the kitchen. She finished her degree in music and went to culinary school. After rising to the challenge of working at West Restaurant and Bar, a fine dining restaurant on South Granville with an impressive lineage of chefs, she moved to Winnipeg and connected with Chef Mandel Hitzer at deer + almond. After seven years at deer + almond (during which she was chosen to compete in both Top Chef Canada and the Canadian Culinary Championship), Emily was approached by Mike Del Buono to open a new Burnley Place Hospitality concept in St. Boniface called Nola. How do you approach your menu at Nola? I do well with structure, but all these things that I do also have a creative angle. What’s the meaning? Is there a story? What am I trying to convey? When I found cooking, I was searching for my favourite medium to do that. A lot of the menu is very nostalgic to me. It’s food memories from growing up. It’s my favourite ingredients that mean certain things to me. It also is informed a lot by the seasons here and what’s available in Winnipeg. Do you have a secret ingredient? I’m crazy about yuzu kosho. It’s a Japanese fermented chili paste with citrus. We’re trying to make our own because it’s expensive to order it from Vancouver (though I did find it at Young’s once!). What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef? I worked with some children’s choirs when I was going to university, so if I had followed music, I probably would have worked with a youth nonprofit. Or I would be working in the fashion world—I almost went to fashion school. 44 Shop Local, Globally

What is your favourite cookbook? State Bird Provisions is an old one that I go back to. They do Californian cuisine, but they do it dim sum-style with cart service. My dream is to go visit them. And Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown is upscale Chinese food. It’s all of these dishes that my grandma used to make, but with a twist. What is your favourite food destination? Vietnam was one of my favourite places to travel and eat. And I was really lucky to work in Norway for a couple of weeks. It was really interesting cooking in a similar climate but from a different perspective. I was in a restaurant in Bergen, where they worked closely with local purveyors and fishers. They got everything from one farm, and they worked around what these people had to offer. Do you have a guilty pleasure? Shoes and vintage dresses. Vantage Vintage is where I go on my day off. Where do you eat in the city on your day off? Clementine, Oxbow, and deer + almond. If you could cook for anyone, dead or alive, who would it be? Julia Child. She’s my icon. She was bigger than life, doing everything that people said she couldn’t do.

Above: Braised Lamb and Gunpowder Roast Carrots; below: Seared Scallops and Lo Bak Go

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Available exclusively at

Introducing the newest Civettina in the family...

CIVETTINA ROSSO TERRE SICILANE IGT

Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!

Wine Trends on Wellington:

Michael Au, Wine Director, 529 Wellington

5 Questions for Michael Au, Wine Director

Interview by Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE FWS, Sommelier Michael Au is the very talented Wine Director at 529 Wellington. He launched his wine journey 14 years ago when he entered the hospitality industry. Michael began his education with the International Sommelier Guild levels 1 and 2 courses and recently completed the top-level WSET 3 course at Wine and Drinks College of Manitoba. In addition to managing the award-winning wine list and cellar at 529 Wellington, Michael is available to guide guests through the wine list and help them select the perfect wine to match their dinner, palate, and occasion.

Wine service involves more than pouring a bottle at table side. What does your role as a wine steward encompass?

Being able to listen to the guest and hearing what they are open to enjoying is important. All the knowledge in the world doesn’t help if you aren’t open to what your guest is looking for. Being able to read your guests, hear what they enjoy, and not let any of your own specific personal tastes override what

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they are asking for are very important skills because it’s not about what you like—it’s what your guests might like. It is also important to assess your guests’ readiness to trying something outside their comfort zone, whether slightly or completely. Part of this is understanding the evolution of flavours and the wine journey for the table. If guests are having multiple courses and multiple different wines, and they have asked for your advice about what wines to choose, it is important to make choices that complement the cuisine but also balance the dynamics of the dining experience; there must be diminuendos as well as crescendos in the music of flavours. I also think that a desire and a hunger to learn is important. There are always new things happening in the wine world, and there are always more regions to explore. As we increase our knowledge, I think it is easy to be humble because the more you know, the more you realize how much you don’t know. Pairing that humility with the desire to learn is a great attribute to keep growing.

The 529 list is iconic—it has been awarded Wine Spectator ’s Best of Award of Excellence every year since 2003—but for some, it might seem intimidating. What is your best advice for guests to make a great choice?

I would tell guests to be inquisitive and fearless. Find a budget that you’re comfortable with first and foremost, and then, ask questions. The list is laid out by the glass selections to start, then sparkling, white, and red. It is laid out by variety and region. Start with what you are comfortable with: if you enjoy wines from California, maybe have a look there and then use that inquisitiveness to further explore regions or grape varieties. Use your server and myself as a resource to help you.

It is important to make choices that compliment the cuisine but that also balance the dynamics of the dining experience; there must be diminuendos as well as crescendos in the music of flavours.

What wine trends are you seeing in the restaurant?

We’re seeing a trend of more interest in Old World wines and value regions. We have incorporated a few more Spanish wines in our wine list recently, including a lovely by-the-glass selection, the La Senda Merlot Tempranillo from Pinuaga. It’s been extremely popular. There is an interest in wines that are less mainstream for North America—and with the recent uptick in prices with wines coming up from California, there is an interest in wines that provide value but have similar characteristics and similar levels of complexity from elsewhere: Rioja and Ribera del Duero, Spain; Super Tuscans from Toscana, and top prestige regions within France, but from lesser-known regions—northern Rhône, southern Rhône, and Provence.

For guests keen to make new discoveries, I would encourage them to explore perhaps a familiar grape they love but from a different region. I would give them information as to what makes it similar and what makes it different, and what they might like or enjoy with the expression of that wine from that different region. If they are used to Napa Valley Cabernet, I suggest perhaps going to Bordeaux, Tuscany, or Rioja or Ribera del Duero, Spain, where they will find red and black fruit characteristics and rich, concentrated expressions but more nuance toward earthiness, herbaceous influences, and different tannin structures.

At a traditional steakhouse, one expects a wine list that is heavy in red wines—why does 529 list so many sparkling, rosé, white, and dessert wines?

Part of that decision is seasonal—we have more of those selections in the summer months—and part of it is that within our menu, there are options outside of steak. Perhaps a white wine or a sparkling wine would be a lovely segue into dinner before moving to something a little more robust. And if one is not having steak but perhaps a weighty fish or shellfish, a weighty white wine or something fresh might be more appropriate. We are always re-examining our list and looking to offer a wider breadth of wines to our guests. For example, I would love to see a caviar program to pair with Champagne. We have recently incorporated Japanese Wagyu as a feature item, and I would love to bring some sake selections into the restaurant as natural pairing to that.

Do you recall a specific wine that inspired your interest in a career in wine?

One of the most beautiful aromatic wines that I experienced was a bottle of Domaine de Beaurenard Cuvée Boisrenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge. I had purchased a bottle of 2005, which was an extremely rich but tannic year. I opened it, decanted it, and proceeded to enjoy it over the next eight hours. Aromatically, it was one of the most expressive wines I can recall. Ripe fruit, garrigue [Ed. note: a mix of lavender, juniper, thyme, rosemary, and sage that grows on the Mediterranean coast], savoury dried herbs, smoked meat, truffles, and earthiness, but on the palate, it was incredibly tight and mouth-puckeringly sour. By the time I got to the end of the bottle and had perhaps two sips left at around the eight-hour mark, when it finally opened. The palate matched the nose. It was one of the most rewarding and frustrating experiences I’ve had with a wine but also piqued my curiosity and made me want to understand why and learn more!

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Winnipeg’s International Table By Anton Sikorsky, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, and Malcolm Roberts Photos by Ian McCausland

An outsider might look at Winnipeg and think—what kind of culture could be found in that frozen city in the middle of Canada? But anyone who lives here knows that one of Winnipeg’s strengths is the diverse cultures that make up our community. Our communities are filled with first-, second-, and third-generation entrepreneurs who share their food cultures through incredible community festivals, restaurants, and specialty stores. We wanted to tip our hats (and our glasses) to just three of those communities with a spotlight on Indian, Japanese, and Filipino dishes. To begin our meal, Anton collaborated with local food entrepreneur Shivam Sharma (@shivspicecafe) to create an 50 Shop Local, Globally

easy and authentic appetizer, Pani Puri. Easy, that is, once you have all of the ingredients. While the ingredient list may seem intimidating at first, all we had to do was take our shopping list to Dino’s Grocery—a one-stop grocery shop for Indian, pan-Asian, Middle Eastern, Caribbean, and Central American ingredients—and they were more than happy to find everything we needed. Our next dish takes us to the Philippines for Malcolm’s version of Chicken Adobo. Finally, for that especially cold evening when you could use some comfort, Ricki-Lee created a vegan ramen broth that is the perfect base for anything you want to add to the pot. Our three wine experts were excited at the prospect of pairing wines with the unique flavours of these three dishes.

PANI PURI 6 1 tsp 2 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 2½ cups

large red potatoes black salt (kala namak) chaat masala* kosher salt black pepper boondi** Pani Puri shells Tamarind chutney to serve

Boil the potatoes until soft. While the potatoes are boiling, soak the boondi in warm water to soften. Once the potatoes are boiled, mash them and mix in the boondi. Stir in kala namak, kosher salt, pepper, and chaat masala. Pani (Sauce): 5 cups water 3 tsp concentrated tamarind 1½ tsp kala mamak (black salt) 2 tsp chat masala 4 tsp jaggery powder (cane sugar) 3 tsp Jal Jeera powder*** 1 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped 2–3 Thai green chilies, to taste Combine water, concentrated tamarind, chaat masala, Jal Jeera powder, black salt, and jaggery powder in a large bowl. Stir until mixed. Chop Thai chilies and mint leaves and blend into a paste. Add 1 cup of sauce mixture and blend until smooth. Return to the bowl with the rest of the sauce and stir to combine. Chill in the fridge (or add ice to chill if you are serving it immediately).

PAIR WITH: Domaine Lafond 2022 Roc-Épine Tavel Rosé ($29.99) Tawse 2020 Spark Sparkling Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Canada ($25.99) Winemaker’s Cut 2022 Grüner Veltliner Okanagan Valley, Canada ($36.99)

To serve: Gently poke holes in the top of the shells, and fill halfway with potato mixture. Top with tamarind chutney. As you eat, take a shell, fill it with pani sauce, and eat in one bite. *Chaat masala is an Indian spice blend typically made of cumin, coriander seeds, dried ginger, amchoor (mango powder), salt, black pepper, asafoetida, and chili powder, with some variations. **Boondi is an Indian snack made of fried chickpea flour. ***Jal Jeera is a powdered beverage often described as a cumin and citrus drink. This recipe was a collaboration with Shivam Sharma at Shiv’s Spice Café (@shivspicecafe).

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FILIPINO CHICKEN ADOBO Serves 6 2 lbs 3 6 tbsp 4 tbsp 1 4 2 2 tbsp 2

skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks bay leaves soy sauce* white vinegar head garlic, separated and peeled carrots, cut into large chunks stalks of lemongrass, cracked open canola oil red Thai chilies water scallions or green onion sticky white rice to serve

*We recommend White Swan Filipino soy sauce, which we found at Tindahan Food Mart.

Marinate: Place the chicken in a large casserole dish. Mix the soy sauce and vinegar and pour over the chicken. Add the garlic cloves, bay leaves, carrots, and the lemongrass. Add enough water to almost cover the chicken. Marinate in the fridge for a minimum of 3 hours. Cook: Remove the chicken from the marinade, setting the marinade aside. Heat the canola oil in a hot skillet. Sear the chicken in small batches, 2 minutes on each side, to crisp up the skin. Combine the chicken and marinade and slowly bring to a boil. Lower the heat and braise for about 2 hours. You can remove the lid for the last 30 minutes to thicken the sauce. Serve: Place the chicken on a serving dish and keep warm. Strain the marinade and pour over the chicken. Discard the carrots or serve them separately. Garnish with chilis and scallions. Serve with a generous amount of white rice.

SHOP LOCAL: We found the perfect Staub casserole dish for our chicken at d.a. Niels and dolsot rice bowls (usually used for crisping up rice in Korean bibimbap) from Arirang Oriental Food Mart. The ramen bowl (page 54) was made by local pottery artist Kathleen Legris (@grayinthepeg).

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PAIR WITH: Torralbenc 2020 Albenc White Menorca, Spain ($33.99) Radley & Finch 2022 Alley Pack Chenin Blanc Western Cape, South Africa ($24.99) Mas d’en Gil 2019 Bellmunt Priorat, Spain ($44.99)

AW]Z VM_ OW \W +PIZLWVVIa GROWN IN CALIFORNIA

ENJOY A BOTTLE OF LANGETWINS FAMILY GROWN.

@LANGETWINS | LANGETWINS.COM GROWN IN CALIFORNIA

RAMEN WITH A SAKE-MARINATED EGG Serves 4 1.8 litres vegetable or mushroom stock 1 medium yellow onion, minced 2 sheets of nori 6 green onions, split 10 dry shiitake mushrooms 1 garlic clove, minced 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp ginger, grated 2 tbsp sake 2 tbsp miso paste 1 tsp brown sugar 1 cup water 2 green onions, sliced 1 tbsp sesame seeds 4 packages ramen noodles 4 large eggs 1 cup sake 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp soy sauce chili oil, to taste Prepare marinated eggs ahead: Drop 4 eggs into a pot with water that just covers their tops. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 6 minutes. Plunge into ice-cold water, and peel eggs when cool. Combine the marinade of sake, sugar, and soy sauce in a bowl and immerse peeled eggs. Cover with a paper towel and let sit overnight in the refrigerator. Broth: Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until it just starts to brown (about 10 minutes). Add the vegetable or mushroom stock, along with the nori, green onions, and mushrooms. When the broth comes to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the soup using a fine mesh sieve and save the mushrooms for a ramen topping. Tare (flavour base): Combine minced garlic clove, soy sauce, grated ginger, sake, miso paste, and water. Bring to a simmer. For a spicier base, substitute gochujang for miso paste. While the tare is simmering, cook ramen noodles according to package instructions and set aside. To assemble: In each bowl, pour ¼ cup of the tare mixture and place a serving of ramen in it. Pour the hot broth over the noodles. Add a marinated egg, sliced scallions, chili oil, sesame seeds, rehydrated mushrooms, and your chosen toppings. Suggested toppings include raw carrots, bell peppers, roasted corn, blanched bok choi, fried puff tofu, peanuts, jalapeños, kimchi, and nori. 54 Shop Local, Globally

PAIR WITH: Fram 2022 Grenache Gris Swartland, South Africa ($36.99) Blanck 2020 Pinot Gris Alsace, France ($25.99) Doom Juice 2022 Rouge South Australia ($31.99)

WE DELIVER! Four ways to order: Text our Sommeliers at 204.400.0499 Order online at joneswines.com

Jones & Company offers • FREE DELIVERY within city limits for orders over $250 (before taxes) • Delivery charge for orders under $250 is only $12

Call your favourite wine expert at 204.948.9463

• Order by 6 pm for next-day delivery.*

Email us at wine@joneswines.com

• Weekly deliveries to La Salle, East and West St. Paul, and Headingley

*Applies to most orders.

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CANADIAN LANDSCAPES

O R I GINALS | COMMISSIONS | PRINTS LE IG H MCKE NZIE ART.CO M | 204 . 9 97. 8857

L E T U S H E L P YO U S P R E A D YO U R WORD ON THE STREET.

BRANDING & DESIGN STUDIO BASED IN WINNIPEG, MANITOBA INFO@GARFIELDSTREET.CA | GARFIELDSTREET.CA

WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.

W CO

NI E&DR I N

N MA

WSET programs are the gold standard in wine education and are offered in more than 70 countries. Our teaching staff has an unmatched depth of experience, subject expertise and passion, and a willingness to share it all with you. WDCM has trained Manitoba’s Sommelier graduates, and, with our WSET programs, many of our alums have followed careers as industry leaders. We receive many questions about what level of wine education to sign up for. Each level goes into a deeper level of understanding about the history, geography and culture of wine—and of course, the tasting! A great place to start is WSET Level 1, a three-evening course in the world of wine, food and wine harmony, tasting classic wine styles, and describing wines accurately. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin. To give you an idea of the depth of WSET Level 1, the question and answers opposite show you the level of knowledge you will gain if you take this course.

What makes Syrah unique? • Syrah is a red grape variety commonly grown in the Northern Rhône Valley of France and throughout Australia. • “Syrah” is the French name for the grape variety, while in Australia it is commonly known as “Shiraz.” • Syrah grows best in warm climate wine regions, and the Northern Rhône is one of the coolest regions where the grape is grown. Wines grown here tend to be mediumbodied, with notes of fresh blackberries and black pepper. • Wines made in the warmer regions of Australia tend to be full-bodied and fruit-forward with notes of ripe black cherries, licorice, and spice. • Syrah wines aged in oak barrels can also display flavours of cedar or vanilla.

The basic wine knowledge of Level 1 will give you a fantastic overview of the classic wine styles, their characteristics, and how to describe them, as well as a little bit of wine geography so you know what to expect from wines grown in certain regions. If these are the basics you are looking for, we have two cycles of WSET Level 1 coming in 2024:

WSET LEVEL 1

Spring dates: March 13, 20, & 27 (Wednesdays) Fall dates: September 10, 17, & 24 (Tuesdays) Cost: $425 + GST

To register for classes, visit joneswines.com/education or email us at wine@joneswines.com.

Are you looking for a higher level of wine instruction? The WSET Level 2 Award in Wines is a beginner-to intermediate-level qualification exploring wines suitable for industry professionals and wine enthusiasts. You will gain knowledge of the world’s principal and regionally significant grape varieties, wine regions, and styles of wine. Through tasting and theory, you will explore the factors that impact style and quality and learn how to confidently describe these wines. The course is eight evening sessions, with an exam in the 9th session. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin and will be able to use the associated WSETcertified logo.

WSET LEVEL 2 AWARD IN WINES

Fall dates: September 18–November 13 (Wednesdays) Cost: $1,075 + GST

Winnipeg’s Premiere Wine Store offers you

The Keys to the Store A wine-tasting experience curated by you. After the store closes, a Jones & Company wine expert will take you and up to 5 of your friends on an exclusive store tour to hand-pick wines for your evening’s event: a tutored tasting customized to your taste. Curated tastings start at $80 per person.

Visit our website for more options and inspiration: joneswines.com.

culinary partners

Todd Antonation of Jones & Company works closely with our Culinary Partners to create wine lists that complement their menus in both flavour profiles and price points. These winter dishes are great for sharing—or enjoying all to yourself!

3. Restö at Thermëa Spa: Warm up after a day at the nordic spa with Pikes Clare Red (Australia) paired with Baked Brie & Smörgås-Board. 4. Priarie’s Edge: Ka Tahi Pinot Gris (New Zealand) is the perfect partner for the Pan-Seared Salmon with lemon dill hollandaise, warm quinoa salad, and seasonal vegetables.

1. 529 Wellington: Savour the Mixed Grill of premium Canadian Prime tenderloin, Quebec Provimi lamb, and milk-fed veal with Chateau Langoa Barton Saint-Julien Bordeaux (France).

5. The Wood Tavern: Share a glass of Gérard Bertrand An 806 GSM (France) and Fire-Grilled Octopus with romesco sauce, chorizo, fingerling potatoes, crispy shallots, soft herbs and house-made roasted garlic aioli with your favourite date.

2. James Ave Pumphouse: Sarah pairs Method Cabernet Sauvignon (California) with the vegan Crispy Tofu Parm Sandwich, topped with in-house vegan pesto, crisp arugula, vegan mozza, and scratch-made marinara sauce on a toasted ciabatta bun.

6. Amsterdam Tea Room: Beef Tartare topped with shallots, parsley, capers, Dijon mustard, and egg yolk and served with a side of fresh bread pairs perfectly with Precision Wine Co’s Windstorm Cabernet Sauvignon (California).

7. Junction 59: Mackenzie enjoys a glass of Oakbank Cabernet Sauvignon her Hot Rock Fajitas with steak (a.k.a., the Molcajete bowl)! 8. SMITH: Maggie and Alyssa pair El Grillo y la Luna 12 Lunas Garnacha (Spain) with the SMITH Charcuterie Board: three varieties of cured meat, whole grain mustard, SMITH pickled vegetables, house-smoked olives, crostini, and lavash. 9. Rosé Coffee and Wine: Tuck yourselves into a cozy corner to share a beautiful cheese board paired with Baglio Oro Dei Respiri Nero d’Avola (Italy). 10. Damecca Lounge: Shekinah enjoys the Cantina Colli Euganei Merlot (Italy) paired with a perfectly prepared Seoul Steak.

11. Peasant Cookery: Mas d’en Gil Coma Vella Garnacha (Spain) is a smooth pairing for the house-made Sausage-Stuffed Mushrooms with smoked jalapeno chimichurri, arugula, balsamic glaze, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. 12. Diana’s Cucina and Lounge: Diana enjoys a glass of J Lohr Cypress Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (California) with the Ultimate Pepperoni Pizza (winner of Canada’s Best Pizza of 2007)—two layers of dry-cured pepperoni with Garlic ‘n’ Chive Havarti and mozzarella cheeses on a Moosehead beer crust finished with Parmesan cheese. 13. La Roca: Mikala recommends Charley Rose Grenache by Geoff Merrill Wines (Australia) as a fun pairing for the Grilled Shrimp Tacos topped with creamy avocado crema and pico de gallo and served with Mexican spiced rice and street corn.

SIDEBAR

Just what do you mean, “Reserve”? By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Reserve. It just sounds so important. But beware. Among the many wine questions that come my way, one that isn’t often asked is: “What does ‘Reserve’ on a wine label mean?” I can understand why: that word just seems so self-evident. “Reserve” is something you do to guarantee a hotel room. Or a table in a restaurant, by the window. For wine, the word “reserve” conjures up the idea of being special, exclusive, superior, held apart from the regular offering. And in a Romance language, it sounds even more impressive: Réserve. Reserva. Riserva. The real meaning is often obscure. In a few countries, there are some guarantees. Spanish Reserva (or its sister, Gran Reserva) guarantees minimum ageing requirements, as well as specified regimens for barrel and bottle ageing. Different Spanish regions have different Reserva regulations, and there are specifics governing red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines. Italian and Portuguese wines also have Riserva/Reserva categories, calling for longer ageing before release and slightly higher alcohol that results from riper fruit at harvest. Portuguese Reserva Ports are also subject to specific requirements, including submission to a tasting panel before label approval. From most other places, “reserve” can mean anything. It can mean that the wine was aged longer or made from special fruit—or both. Coriole’s 2018 Lloyd Reserve Shiraz ($89.99), for example, is a tiny-production wine from a single vineyard of centenarian vines in McLaren Vale, made with their own rigorous ageing standard. In Chile, Argentina, or Canada, Reserva might mean a line of wines above their basic entry level (like Ventisquero)— or it might mean nothing. Or it could even mean that a conglomerate bought leftover juice that someone else brokered, which was then blended in another country with

62 Shop Local, Globally

more ordinary wines from Anywhere, Planet Earth—and pasted that magic word “Reserve” on the label. That $11.29 Grande Reserve sparkling wine from potentially anywhere? It gives pause for thought. The wine lover must take a small amount of skepticism to the wine-shopping excursion. If the label says Reserve, Reserve, or Riserva, ask what it actually means. Do you want a more aged Rioja Reserva, or do you want something simple, juicy, and easy? A new approach in Spain considers the single-vineyard designation more interesting than the Reserva or Gran Reserva categories, and many producers are walking away from those words altogether. If the wine is an Italian Riserva or Portuguese Reserva, is it better? For example, some producers’ Reserva Ports are not as good as other producers’ basic Ruby or Tawny Ports— but the only way to know that is to do your research or ask someone who has. Ultimately, the most important questions to ask are: Is the wine from a special vineyard, a special fruit, or a special ageing process, or was the word tacked on the label like a little sequin, winking about some unnamed specialness but offering nothing? All in all, it is a bit untidy. We often think about wine labelling as highly regulated (admittedly getting more so), but there are some things that just seem to slip under the radar until showing up—besequinned—on a shelf somewhere. So here’s to you, quite reserved.

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The Cellar Door Issue 47: Grenache

Articles inside

Chef Profile:

Sommelier vs. AI

Let the World Collide

Putting Wine into Words

The Great Reaveal

What We're Drinking

Behind the Label: Calzadilla

You Already Love Grenache

a message from tina jones