Poissonpassion issue06 by Poisson Passion

Issue N°. 6 • April 2014

FRE

MICA N°. 178/12/2013

A PUBLICATION FOR HOBBYISTS

FEATURED FISH

EARTH’S REMAINING RIVER SYSTEMS

Crystal Red Shrimps

The Mekong River System FEATURED FISH

Giant Freshwater Stingray SUNKEN SPECTACLE

Soiling Your Tank: Laying the Land

Wild Bettas More than your average fighting fish Betta livida / © Johannes MJ

PO ISSO N PA SSI O N.COM

SHARED KNOWLEDGE

Interview with Dr. Tan Heok Hui BEGINNER’S GUIDE

What the fish?! to buy?

Thinking of getting a quality fish tank to complement your home and workplace? N3O Tank is here to provide you with a piece of living art.

An established tank maker with a decade of experience, N3O Tank has delivered over thousands of quality custom-made tanks to discerning hobbyists from all over the world. With our in-house team of skilled artisans, supported by our interior dĂŠcor designer and technical experts, N30 Tank has a track record of delivering custom made tanks to Europe, East Asia and the Middle East, catering for the minutest details our clients demand and offering reliable after sales services. As a one-stop shop, we also provide a suite of complementary

services

from

set-up

consultancy to regular tank maintenance,

anks t 0 3 N l Al with a comes

giving you peace of mind to enjoy the other finer things in life.

RANT Y

WAR S R A E e 5Y leakag for

To view our gallery of showpieces and testimonials from our satisfied clients, visit www.n30.com.sg. Like us on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/N30Trading

Feel free to contact us for a non-obligatory quote and free consultation at: Email: weeyang@n30.com.sg Mobile: +65 9667 2353

T H E CO L O P H O N

In This Issue Issue N°.6 / April 2014

04.

05.

06. EARTH’S REMAINING RIVER SYSTEMS

THE COMM

LATERAL LINE THOUGHTS

Latest updates on the newest LFS in town

Keeping Exotics

10.

14.

08.

The Mekong River System

FEATURED FISH

Giant Freshwater Stingray

20.

22.

SUNKEN SPECTACLE

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

SHARED KNOWLEDGE

FEATURED FISH

Soiling Your Tank: Laying the Land

Wild Bettas: Not Your Average Fighting Fish

Dr. Tan Heok Hui on Wild Bettas

Crystal Red Shrimps

24.

26.

28.

29.

NEW TO OUR SHORES

BEGINNER’S GUIDE

Directory

The Caudal

Editor’s Note

T H E CO L O P H O N

Vincent Koh / Editor of Poisson Passion

I am glad that Issue 6 has reached your hands! To our readers in Singapore and Malaysia, I hope the hazy and dry weather has not affected you or your loved ones. Keep hydrated! Since our water changing schedule is more frequent than the chances of having rain, do recycle your old tank water by watering the plants and grass around your area. It will definitely benefit our parched greenery (or chao-ta plants). Continuing our Earth’s Remaining River Systems segment, we shift the focus to a river system closer to us, the Mekong River. The great river flows through major parts of South East Asia and sustains a large population of freshwater aquatic life, and provides for a larger human population. Its nutrient rich waters have produced behemoths like the Giant river stingray and Mekong giant catfish, both of which are critically endangered.We look into these giants and inform you why it is better to let them stay in the wild or visit them at the River Safari! I dare say most hobbyists would have come into contact with fighting fish at any point into their obsession with fishes, but do you know the family of Bettas is much bigger? In our Species Spotlight, we turn our attention to the wild Bettas, introducing them to the greater population of hobbyists. Our guest writer, Johannes, brings to life his obsession with these less known species of Bettas! Shrimps are definitely not just for feeders! The white and crimson Crystal Red Shrimps (“CRS”) are making a comeback (were they ever gone)? These shrimps though small are packing quite a punch to diehard hobbyists’wallets, we invite Alvin Chan of Aquarist Chamber to educate us on the finer points of CRS appreciation. For the budding hobbyists, choosing their first fish is always a headache. Do I go with affordability, hardiness, or just something expensive that I like? Poisson Passion tries to relieve the pain by letting you know which fish to buy on page 25. Enjoy and don’t forget to ‘LIKE’ us on FaceBook! TO THE NEXT FISH

Vincent Editor, Poisson Passion

GUEST WRITER

Alvin Chan After being introduced into keeping CRS by his godfather in 2009, he has been hooked on the hobby and has been constantly upgrading his tanks, breeding stock and his knowledge on shrimps. A font of knowledge and readiness to share with new and experienced keepers, Alvin is always available at Aquarist Chamber to advise on how to maintain and breed his poison of choice, CRS. Follow Alvin’s blog at http://alvinchan80. blog.fc2.com/blog-date-201208.html.

GUEST WRITER

Johannes MJ Has been keeping fishes since his childhood days leisurely until he came across wild bettas which triggered him into breeding more exotic and rare tropical fishes. He has moved on from labyrinth fishes to South and Central American cichlids and currently breeding cichlids from the lake Tanganyika while continuing his passiontodevelopattractiveLoricariidsfromthegenus Hypancistrus.

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

T H E CO M M

Latest Updates on the newest LFS in town Aquarist Chamber shopfront

AQUARIST CHAMBER

Sun Pets and Aquarium’s shopfront. The rustic view hides a well-stocked aquascape showroom.

SUN PETS & AQUARIUM

26 Seletar Farmway 1 Singapore 798126 Attention to all aquascape enthusiasts! You have a new playground in town. Sun Pets & Aquarium (SPA) has taken root at 26 Seletar Farmway 1, Singapore 798126. Opened earlier this year on 22 Feb, this LFS aquascape specialist shop is making itself out to be a one-stop shop for aquascapers. Sporting a brand new air conditioned planted tank showroom, SPA features scapes devised by the leaders in aquascape design —Green Chapter and ADA Singapore! It also hosts an activity area out at the back of the shopfront, catering to scapers searching for that perfect rock/substrate to complete their pet project. The activity area also doubles as a space for like-minded scapers to mingle and share ideas and experiences. Finally, a place where topics on wood, rocks, and plants can be discussed, without others thinking you have a deviant fetish!

The aquascape wing displaying Green Chapter on the left and ADA on the right. What more can an aquascaper ask for?

Seems like more hobbyists are turning their passion into their livelihood, which means we, the amateurs are going to benefit. Started in early December 2013, this pro-shrimp (not your everyday shrimp, but crystal red shrimps) shop is helmed by Alvin Chan, a familiar name to CRS/shrimp enthusiasts. A partnership between three friends and longtime CRS keepers, Aquarist Chamber (AC) offers invaluable advice to new and experiencedhobbyistskeentocreateanidealtankenvironment for their Caridina cantonensis. AC does not just offer sound advice and stock premium CRS. It has this inviting and homely feel to it. So much so, that new customers have become fast friends to the AC staff! Stocking premium CRS stock from Japan and Taiwan, AC also caters to marine tank enthusiasts too. Their display tank of Maxima clams is so alluring, that our editor is very much entranced by it. Making friends, peeping An avid shrimper inspecting the goods. Seats are provided for your at clams and gawking at viewing pleasure. premium CRS, AC just offers a great environment for hobbyists to visit!

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE WINNERS OF OUR

River Safari Entry Pass Giveaway! We hope Elaine Low, Tee Kheng Hua, Zarni Htun and Seng Tiam Woon have enjoyed themselves at River Safari. Do share your pictures and experiences with our other readers on our Facebook page! For those who did not manage to win a pair of entry passes for last issue, don’t be disheartened, as we will be holding another giveaway in this issue. Stay tuned for our online updates by liking us on facebook.com/PoissonPassion!

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

T H E CO M M

787A Upper Serangoon Road Singapore 534655

L ATER AL LINE THOUGHTS

Keeping Exotics By Vincent Koh

L AT E R A L L I N E T H O U G H T S

xolotls, salamanders, sturgeons, chameleons, ball pythons, Indian star tortoises, leopard geckos, king snakes, tegus. These are just some of the “exotic” pets favoured by, dare I say, non-mainstream pet lovers in most parts of the world today. Sadly, they have one commondenominatorinSingapore:they are BANNED! Being caught with keeping these fascinating creatures on Singapore shores would be an infringement of the EndangeredSpecies(ImportandExport) Act and the Wild Animals and Birds Act, which carries a hefty fine. A recent case (earlyFebruary2014)showedtheseverity of these infringements, with a fine of $41,000 being mete out to the guilty keeper. Paying that fine must have been no mean feat! Due to these laws, many nonmainstream pet lovers have been driven underground, resigned to the fate that in order for them to enjoy the company of their exotic pets, they have to do it in secret and perhaps share it with a few select and close friends and pet lovers. Imagine the situation when your exotic pet falls ill, how would you treat it? Vets? There are some who are able to treat exotics, but would you take the risk to bring them out for a consultation, knowing that if caught, you would be slappedwithafineandhaveyourbeloved pet confiscated. Although the laws were set in place to protect endangered animals and prevent unnecessary harm to the general public, would it not be better to educate and raise awareness for these beautiful creatures instead? Some may argue that banning these creatures is easier and education takes too long, but

Pogona vitticeps. Bearded dragon sub adults basking under the UV lamp. On display in Malaysia.

is that really true? Personally, I feel that the bans have created a sizable Black Market on the trade of these exotics. Internet technological advancements have certainly made it easier for traders to market their livestock! Whatapps messages,Facebookpostshavetakenthe back alley deals online, protecting the anonymity of both buyers and seller. Let us not be blind to the fact that the exotic pets trade is growing in Singapore. Productsmeantforthekeepingofreptiles (basking lights,Vitamin D3 supplements, substrates) are increasingly offered for sale in LFS around Singapore. These products are not cheap and would Red EarSlider(“RES”)ownerssplurgeonthese products? Perhaps the owners of the rare albino and other colour morph variants of RES would, but how many of these individuals are there? I am not initiating a witch-hunt of non-mainstream pet lovers, but I am appealingfortheirhelptocometogether and help work with AVA to: • Set out guidelines to ease the bans; • Discourage unscrupulous traders from smuggling and dealing in endangered animals; • Supporttheconservationofhabitats; • Create awareness and educate the general public that exotic pets had been demonized and are neither disease-riddennorecologydamaging. In doing so, we can do our part for animal/habitatconservationandpromote pet-keepingasahealthyhobbytoamuch wideraudience. The above is a rant by the Editor and it represents his personal views, though Poisson Passion neither reject nor support his‘mad’rantings, we like to keep an open mind and believe some truth lies hidden within his views.

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

05 Ceratophrys cranwelli. Pacman frogs packed and ready for sale in Taiwan

Varanus prasinus. A sub-adult emerald tree monitor found in a LFS in Malaysia.

A tame and leashed tegu waiting for its owner in Malaysia. Although their claws look intimidating, keepers usually describe their tegus as affectionate pets.

EARTH’S REMAINING RIVER SYSTEMS

Mystical Mekong Seen in Singapore at the River Safari

By Valerie Lim

MEKONG RESIDENTS

The Mekong River is home to not one but four of the largest freshwater fish in the world. Native residents include the Irrawaddydolphins,dog-eatingcatfish,thegiantSiamesecarp, the giant freshwater stingray and the giant freshwater catfish. MEKONG GIANT CATFISH

One of the world’s largest and rarest freshwater fish, the Pangasianodon gigas, or commonly known as the Mekong giant catfish (not to be mistaken with P. sanitwongsei or“Kong Ming”), is capable of growing up to 3 metres in length and 300 kilogrammes in weight. Despite its massive size, this giant

catfish is a toothless herbivore that feeds mainly on algae and other plants. Ahundredyearsago,theMekonggiantcatfishwasabundant throughout the Mekong River. Now, the Mekong giant catfish is critically endangered with the total population decreased by 90% in the last decade. It is estimated that only a few hundred individuals remain in the wild. GIANT FRESHWATER STINGRAY

The Himantura polylepis has experienced little change over millennia.These giant freshwater stingrays are wide and flat in form and sport a long, whip-like tail. Believed to be the world’s largest freshwater fish, they can easily achieve 5 meters in length and weigh up to 600 kilograms. Armed with a deadly barbed stinger on the base of its whip-like tail, giant freshwater stingrays pose a real danger if handled carelessly.Though they do not readily attack humans, theirbarbedstingereasilypenetratesthroughhumanfleshand bone, introducing toxins to the unfortunate victim. Experts suggest that they are faring better than other Mekong giants because they inhabit deeper waters and are foragers, hence making them more elusive and harder to catch than other fish species. A full article on the giant freshwater stingray can be found on page 8. THREATS TO AQUATIC WILDLIFE AT THE MEKONG RIVER

Overfishing is one of the biggest threats to the Mekong River. Reports indicate that in the past, fishermen harvested hundreds, maybe even thousands, of fish annually. However, in

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

All photos courtesy of Wildlife Reserves Singapore. © Wildlife Reserves Singapore

n this issue, Poisson Passion brings our readers to explore a river that is closer to home. Second only to the Amazon in its aquatic biodiversity, the mighty Mekong River is home to some of the largest freshwater fish species in the world. With mega-sized residents such as the Mekong giant catfish, the giant freshwater stingray and the giant Siamese carp, they are just among the 1,100 freshwater species that inhabit the river. Originating from the Tibetan Plateau, the river courses through six countries from China, to Myanmar, Cambodia, Laos,Thailand, and finallyVietnam before discharging into the South China Sea. Boasting one of the world’s largest inland fisheries, the Mekong River is a vital source of food and income for over 60 million people. It winds through a diverse range of landscapes, from dusty savannahs to dense rainforests, and sustains rare wildlife and culturally distinct communities on its banks.

EARTH’S REMAINING RIVER SYSTEMS

China Vietnam Myanmar

Laos South China Sea

Mekong River Thailand

Cambodia

recent times, the catch has dropped to less than ten per year for some species like the Mekong giant catfish. The building of dams are a new cause of concern to the aquatic wildlife as these dams could block migration routes essential to the reproduction process and the natural life cycle of some of the native species of the river. Other potential causes ofthisdeclineincludepollution,habitatdegradation,andcross breeding of wild stocks with hybrid captive bred stocks. The link between human and ecosystem connectivity along the Mekong River is one of the strongest on Earth—making conservation work in the Mekong region not only challenging, but also urgent due to unprecedented rates of social and economic development.

Himantura polylepis. The giant freshwater stingray being carefully transported into the exhibit.

CONSERVATION EFFORTS

Conservation efforts are underway to save these amazing animals before they disappear. Protective laws in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia regulate and ban the recreational fishing of these giants. In the case of the Mekong giant catfish - the species is protected by national law in Cambodia, where it must be released if caught in fisheries. In Thailand, fishing for the giant catfish is prohibited, but special permission can be granted by the Department of Fisheries and in Vietnam, the species is listed in the Vietnam’s Red Data Book and thus afforded special legal protection.

Catlocarpio siamensis. The Giant Siamese Carp is just one of the megafishes inhabitating the Mekong River.

MEKONG RIVER COMMISSION (MRC)

The sustainable development of the river is governed by the Mekong River Commission and its members are: Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. Though China and Myanmar are non-members, they are involved as MRC Dialogue Partners. The MRC, was established in 1995 with the core purpose to “strive to develop work programmes and strategies that best serve its mission to provide effective support for sustainable managementanddevelopmentofwaterandrelatedresources.” MEGAFISH IN SINGAPORE

The newly opened River Safari is home to these megafish. Located in the Mekong River exhibit area, visitors can ‘catch’ these river titans in a 3m-tall aquarium with a large underwater view of the Mekong giant catfish, giant freshwater stingray and giant Siamese carp. These species are rarely displayed in zoos and aquariums and River Safari is one of them. Through captive breeding programmes, the park hopes to contributetothepopulationofendangeredfreshwaterspecies such as the Mekong giant catfish.

YO U DID W? KNO

1. The Mekong Giant Catfish spawn once per year and produce over 1,000,000 eggs. It was once recorded that a 178 kilogram female carried 13.5 kilograms of eggs and each kilogram contained 800,000 eggs.

2. The world’s biggest freshwater fish and 4 out of the top ten giant freshwater fish species can be found in the Mekong River which flows through Cambodia, China, Lao PDR, Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam. More giants inhabit this mighty river than any other on Earth. 3. As the seventh longest river in Asia; the Mekong River has an estimated length of 4,350 km - that is 87 times the length of Singapore!

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

ith graceful flaps of its “underwater wings”, the giant freshwater stingray glides silently in the murky depths of the Mekong River, searching for a suitable patch of river bed to land. Oblivious to the waiting fishermen above, the megafish has landed and with a series of quick flaps, conceals itself under the river silt. Not that the fishermen are able to see the ray through the brown muddy water.

Giant Freshwater Stingray The largest freshwater fish in the world By Vincent Koh

HOME RANGE

The Himantura polylepis inhabits the Mekong River. An adult can weigh up to 600kg and grow up to five metres long. The H. polylepis has been the subject of many monster fish documentaries,bringingmuchawarenessandattentiontothis prehistoric megafish, deemed to be the largest freshwater fish in the world. Due to its elusive nature, nomadic lifestyle and ability to live in deep waters, the giant freshwater stingray was only recently “discovered” about 20 years ago and classified as H. chaophraya, This was however, corrected in 2008, as further study into this elusive ray concluded the H. chaophraya and an earlier described ray, H. polylepis (Bleeker, 1852), were one and the same.

giant freshwater stingray resembles a gigantic apple shaped ray when viewed from the top. It is also known by its other common name as the freshwater whipray; fittingly so as its long whiplike tail easily reaches one metre in length. Like its Amazonian cousins, the H. polylepis’ tail is armed with a stinger bristling with barbs, capable of shredding through flesh and bone, akin to a hot knife through butter. Although a peaceful bottom dweller, the ray will not hesitate to lash out at anyone threatening it with the business end of its whip! As an added “treat” for its attackers, the stinger is sheathed with toxic mucus, which is known to be as deadly as the venom of a pit viper. Handlers do be warned.

PHYSICAL TRAITS

Being a viviparous fish, it gives birth to live young which have developedinsidethebodyofthemother.Inthecaseofthegiant stingray, the fertilized embryos incubate inside the mother’s

Sporting a thin but massive greyish brown oval fin disc and an elongated snout which protrudes out and beyond the disc, the

FROM PUP TO MEGAFISH

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

F E AT U R E D F I S H

All photos courtesy of Wildlife Reserves Singapore. © Wildlife Reserves Singapore

body, nourished by the yolk. Further into the gestation period, the fully formed baby stingrays, or pups are fed on uterine “milk” produced by the mother. Hence when the pups are delivered, they enter the world fully formed, like “miniature” replicas of its parents, measuring up to 30 centimetres wide. Little is known about the giant stingray, as ichthyologists are still looking through muddy waters to determine its behaviour, age of sexual maturity and most importantly the lifespan of the giant stingray. THREATS ON THE HORIZON

Being an apex predator, the giant freshwater stingray has little ornonaturalenemies,however,recenteconomicdevelopments to the countries situated on the banks of the Mekong River, has severely threatened the megafish. Overfishingofthestingray,pollutionandhabitatdegradation are major concerns, though what poses the biggest threat is the proposed construction of hydroelectric dams on certain parts of theMekongRiver.Thedammingwouldrestrictmigratorypatterns oftheray,andsincelittleisknownonthestingray,nooneiscertain if the giant stingray requires any specific areas to reproduce. Further, there has been little documented success in keeping this megafish in captivity, as most public aquariums are illequipped to provide suitable tank space for it. Perhaps the River Safari would succeed where others have failed and shed some light on the behaviour of this magnificent prehistoric creature! A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

S U N K E N S P E C TA C L E

Soiling your tank

Laying of the Land By Zhuang Changzhong

S U N K E N S P E C TA C L E

hoosing the substrate is only half the fun. The other half lies in preparing it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Arranging the substrate to enhance the rocks and wood, ensuring that the flora has sufficient material to blossom in, and providing a comfortable environment for the fishes, especially the bottom dwelling ones. It is important to ensure that the substrate is well prepared, because after the aquarium is established, it will be difficult to make major changes without upsetting the balance in the aquarium. Such upsets may prove fatal for the flora and fauna, and destroy the painstaking work that the aquascaper had invested. PREPARING THE SUBSTRATE WASHING â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CLEANING AND WATERLOGGING

Unless the aquascaper uses second hand substrate, chances are the substrate is going to come dry and dusty. However, the aquascaper has to distinguish between the substrates that must be washed, and those that should not be washed. Washing not recommended. Some substrates do not have to be washed and are meant to be poured entirely, and directly, into the aquarium. Most soil belong to this category. In fact, washing may actually be counterproductive, as the smaller particles will be suspended in the water and washed away. But what about all that dust clouding up the tank, or the loose particles which refuse to sink? One tip is to pour in the dry dusty substrate, and fill up the tank extremely slowly with water, such that all the small particles stay at the bottom. If the aquarium is already filled, then the best solution is to soak the substrate in a small tub of water, and slowly lower that into the aquarium. Next, carefully siphon out the substrate into the desired spot. Washing recommended. For those substrates that are meant to be washed, i.e. sand and gravel, the aquascaper will have to wash them thoroughly to prevent introducing foreign and possibly toxic particles into the aquarium. Thiscanbedonetheconventionalway:pouringthesubstrate into a pail, adding clean water, and swishing the contents until

the water is murky. Then, discard the water, repeat the process and do so until the water is clear. However, the drawback to this method is that the aquascaper will waste a lot of water. Furthermore, transferring the substrate from the pail to the aquarium will be difficult, as the substrate pieces will cling to each other. A much more convenient method involves a bottle, and is typically only used for sand. However, it is not as clean and can only be done in a tank filled with water. Here, fill the bottle with the unwashed sand and top it up with water. Then slowly lower the bottle into the aquarium and turn it upside down. Without squeezing, allow the sand to flow out of the bottle. When almost all the sand has trickled out, use the other hand to stopper the bottle mouth, and remove the bottle, with all the dirt trapped inside. Voila!

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

S U N K E N S P E C TA C L E

The new sand is being poured slowly out, with the debris being trapped in the bottle.

DEPTH OF SUBSTRATE: VARYING THE DEPTH OF THE SUBSTRATE SERVES T WO PURPOSES

Function. First, it is important to keep a minimum height of soil to allow for plants to grow effectively. A general rule of thumb is to lay the substrate to a height of at least 4-5cm for plants to develop a suitably extensive root system. Also, a thick substrate layer brings the plants closer to the light, allowing them to grow faster. Furthermore, the substrate hosts bacteria that aid in the nitrogen cycle, and thicker substrate can host more bacteria which in turn mean that the aquarium will be more effective in the cycling of nitrogenous wastes. Generally, the substrate offers a suitable environment for two kinds of bacteria to thrive in: aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. These bacteria help to facilitate the nitrogen cycle, which in turn creates a safe environment for both flora and fauna.

Aerobic bacteria, which convert ammonia and nitrite into harmless nitrate, require oxygen to survive and are found in the upper levels of the substrate. At depths below 5cm, the oxygen is depleted by the aerobic bacteria and anaerobic bacteria are found in this region. They convert nitrates into nitrogen gas, which will diffuse out through the substrate and into the aquarium. However, it must be noted that there is a disadvantage to having excessively thick layers of substrate. Beyond depths of 7cm, there is a complete absence of oxygen and it is in this environmentthathydrogensulphide,isproducedbyanaerobic bacteria. When produced in large quantities, the gas is toxic to livestock. It is recommended to keep the depth of the substrate at 5 to 7 cm to prevent the formation of hydrogen sulphide. Using substrate with large particles will also reduce this occurrence considerably, since larger particles allow for better

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

S U N K E N S P E C TA C L E

The substrate is being propped up by the bag of ceramic chips. Notice the mix of large and small soil particles, this reduces soil compacting.

circulation and aeration of the substrate layer. Lastly, a deep substrate helps to spread the weight of heavy hardscape across the bottom of the tank and cushion any accidental dislodging of rocks or wood.This protects the fragile glass bottom of the aquarium. Aesthetics. Generally, aquascapers put at the front of the aquarium a thin layer of substrate (~4 cm), and raise the substrate at the back to around 7cm or higher, depending on the size of the aquarium. This creates a sense of depth, which makes the aquascape look larger than it really is. Furthermore,thesubstratehelpstosupportheavyandbulky hardscape by filling up the spaces around the base of the wood or rock.This helps to keep the hardscape in the desired position and height. If the hardscape has an ugly side, the aquascape can conceal it by burying it in the substrate. BENEATH THE SUBSTRATE

There is the practice of laying material on the base of the aquarium beneath the substrate. This helps the aquascaper in creating the aquascape, among other benefits. Raising substrate thickness. For aquascapers who want a high substrate level, it may be more economical to prop up the substrate with bags of media, such as ceramic rings or lava chips. After all, plants do not generally root that deep and having substrate at the lower levels will be wasted. Using these bags of material also help to support the substrate and prevent any slopes that the aquascaper has created from collapsing. Increasing aerobic bacteria. As mentioned earlier, having too deep a substrate can create complications, where a total lack of oxygen causes anaerobic bacteria to produce the toxic hydrogen sulfide. To solve this problem, the aquascaper can lay bags of loose media beneath the substrate. These bags help to create pockets of space, which allow for better water circulation and aeration which brings oxygen to the lower depths of the substrate, thus preventing the production of the hydrogen sulphide.This practice allows the aquascaper to

E USIV E X C L NTENT O WEBC

create a steeper and taller slope beyond 7cm without the fear of toxic gases. Bolstering hardscape. If the aquascaper uses heavy and dense hardscape like rocks, the glass bottom of the aquarium has to be protected from accidental impact. Besides having a thick substrate, as mentioned earlier, another method is to lay egg crates or undergravel filter plates across the bottom of the aquarium, beneath the substrate, to protect the glass bottom. Substrate additives. Some companies market substrate additives that can be added below the substrate as fertilizer for the plants, or to quicken the cycling of the aquarium by providing a ready colony of beneficial bacteria. USING MULTIPLE TYPES OF SUBSTRATE

If the aquascaper wishes to have two different types of substrate adjacent, it is important to separate them physically to prevent inadvertant mixing. One method is to use plastic strips to separate the substrate. However, while this method is effective, it is usually difficult to conceal the plastic strips.

Notice the use of rocks to separate the nutrient rich soil and decorative sand.

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

S U N K E N S P E C TA C L E

The dry setup is carefully soaked, before water is added to reduce floating debris.

Another method is to use rocks. While less conspicuous, using rocks will still allow inadvertant mixing of some substrate. If the aquascaper wishes to stack different types of substrate on top of one another, for example, concealing the bottom layer of sand with a more aesthetically pleasing sand or gravel, he must be careful to prevent the different substrates from mixing. One method is to use substrates with larger particles on top and those with finer particles at the base, such that top substrates will not trickle into the underlying layers. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

Tidiness. The aquascape should maintain a substrate at a constant height, such that it is more pleasing to the eye. If there is a slope, the slope should increase at a constant gradient. This can be achieved by using a rigid piece of card to smoothen the substrate. Cleanliness. While soil does not have to be cleaned, it is useful to vacuum aesthetic substrate like soil and gravel from time to time to clear it of detritus. Therefore, the aquascaper will have to take this into consideration when arranging the substrate in the aquarium, and ensure that the aesthetic substrate is somewhere accessible for cleaning. Rescaping. Aquascapers all suffer from an insatiable need to wet their hands and adjust their aquascapes. However, if the substrate is stirred up in the process, detritus will enter the watercolumn, which will expose the livestock to large amounts of ammonia and nitrite and possibly endanger them. Hence, it

is recommended that changes to the aquascape should only be made if there are minimal disturbances to the substrate. Alternatively, the livestock can be removed during the rescape, and only introduced after the water parameters (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels) have returned to safe levels. CRIT TERS IN THE SUBSTRATE

There are creatures that nose around the surface of the substrate, like catfishes, and those that burrow through it, such as kuhli loaches or Malaysian trumpet snails. These creatures, especially the burrowing ones, help to loosen the substrate particles and aerate the substrate to prevent the build-up of toxic gases. They also help to encourage healthy plant growth by ensuring that the substrate is not overly compacted and the plant roots can easily establish themselves. However, do bear in mind that these creatures can potentially destroy substrate slopes that are not well supported. CONCLUSION

Preparationofthesubstratecanbeatediousprocess,withmany different considerations that one has to take into account. A useful rule of thumb is to keep things simple, and perhaps use just one type of high quality substrate (in this case soil, for the aquascaper) for easy management and maintenance. Adding materials below the substrate is also recommended, due to the multiple benefits as highlighted above.

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

Wild Bettas More than your average fighting fish

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

By Johannes M. J.

etta is the genus of fighting fishes that hail from South East Asia. They are also known as anabantoids, in which they possess a labyrinth organ thatenablethemtobreatheatmospheric air. Thus they are often found in slow flowing or stagnant water bodies where dissolved oxygen is low. The most popular species is Betta splendens; which had been traditionally reared for their fighting skills in Thailand. In recent years however, the domesticated B. splendens are being selectively bred for their beautiful finnage and colours for show competitions. Local hobbyists used the term ‘betta’ to describe these Siamese fighting fishes that we see very often in our local fish shops.

Putting these fighters and show Betta intoindividualjars(“jarring”)isacommon practice, to groom and maintain their impressive finnage. This practice makes them more aggressive to males and sometimes females of the same species, and over time, this aggressive behavior is instilled into them. More often than not, it is impossible to keep more than one male together, for fear of fights. Many perceive this as the norm for keeping all betta species, but they can never be more wrong! Wild bettas, as the name suggests, are collected from the wild, where communal living and peaceful coexistence is the norm. Due to this, they can be kept and bred as pairs, trios or P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

in a community setting, and growing fry do not need to be jarred. Moreover, keeping wild bettas in a community set up which mimics their natural habitat (black water, heavily planted etc) allows us to witness their natural behavior and personality. Though wild bettas, possess similar body shape as show bettas, what sets them apart is the slender, elongated body, spade-shaped caudal, and yet pleasingly vibrant colours of the wilds. Classified into about 13 complexes and over 60 identified species, this group of fish can range from as small as 3-4cm to 12-15cm Total Length (TL). Members from the Coccina complex being the smallest, whilst bettas from the Pugnax,

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

B. livida. From the coccina complex, this male is displaying its breeding colours.

Unimaculata, and Waseri complexes are the largest. My fascination with wild bettas started off in 2006. At that time I was into planted tank and was looking for fishes that are not too boisterous and yet possess certain personality. At the same time I have always been captivated by fighting fish of the genus Betta so after nights of research, I stumbled upon wild bettas.Their unique wild type body shape and spectacular coloration caught my interest! At the start, getting them was a challenge, as some species are hard to come by and not many of themarewidelybredorimportedasornamentalfishes,making themâ&#x20AC;&#x153;rareâ&#x20AC;?in the usual LFS. The alternatives were to buy from a breeder or collect them personally from their habitats. GENUS: BET TA

There are a total of more than 60 valid species described within the genus Betta. They can be classified into 13 complexes and divided into mouthbrooding and bubblenesting species. The different complexes are: Akarensis, Albimarginata,

Anabantoides, Bellica, Coccina, Dimidiata, Edithae, Foerschi, Picta, Pugnax, Splendens, Unimaculata and Waseri. Members from the same complex usually possess similar body shape, size, coloration, water requirement and breeding behavior. Differences are subtle and at times require a skilled and trained eye to differentiate. Many of these wild betta species, especially the ones endemic to peat swamps or forest streams face an imminent threat of extinction, due to modern development and clearing of land for agricultural or commercial purposes. Sadly, many of these wild bettas indigenous to the peat swamps are already listed on the IUCN red list! B. livida and B. persephone are labeled as endangered and criticallyendangeredrespectively.Othercriticallyendangered ones include B. miniopinna, B. simplex and B. spilotogena. With this alarming status, I would recommend breeders to maintain their line or exchange bloodlines with different hobbyists in order to increase the gene pool. Maintaining

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

A typical tank setup for wild bettas. The heavily planted tank provides much cover and hiding places for the community of fishes.

Have finger -clickin

time! g, globetrotting good

Online Travelware Store

www.getsetgo.sg

TECH RECOVERY BAG

Wet Electronics Recovery, save your gadgets from water, snow, and ice damage

10% OFF For OCBC Cardmembers

SHOP NOW! P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

GET

G SET

JETBAG

Padded & Absorbent Carrier to Protect Your Bottles

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

Betta dennisyongi. Male specimen collected from Sumatra. © Dr. Tan Heok Hui

the line within the same locality is very much preferred. This is essential in keeping the variant/locality pure and thus many wild betta hobbyists do not condone cross breeding or hybridization. Despite the difficulty in obtaining specimens, due to the need to venture into new swamps or forest, more and more wild bettas are being discovered and described. Few recently described Betta species are B. kuehnei (2008), B. midas (2009) and last year’s B. dennisyongi (2013).Thus, we can expect more and more new species of wild bettas to be discovered in years to come. TANK SET UP & WATER REQUIREMENTS

Keeping wild bettas is a little different from the show/fighter bettas. The jar method is rarely employed and they are usually housed in community tanks of 1ft up to 4 ft in size. Smaller bettas from the Coccina and Splendens complexes can be kept as pairs in 1ft tanks. Do provide a bigger tank size if you have more than a pair. Medium sized wild bettas such as those from Albimarginata, Dimidiata, Edithae, Foerschi and Picta complexes do best in tank sizes of 2ft tank and up. The remaining bigger species would require 2ft tank and above. Apart from the Splendens group that requires slightly warmer temperatures (28-30°C) to thrive, other wild bettas prefer cooler temperatures, between 26–28°C. This is due to the fact that other wild bettas exist in forest streams, and stagnant water bodies shaded by thick foliage. In fact the temperature of the water in situ is pretty cooling. As hobbyists, keeping them at room temperature of 28-29°C is sufficient to keep them healthy and breed (except for B. macrostoma). Generally, wild bettas prefer a lower pH and soft water to thrive. We can achieve that by adding peat that will soften and lower the pH of the water. Another way to reduce the pH is to use ADA (Aqua Design Amano) Africana soil. It has the

strongest pH lowering ability as compared to the other soil types. Ketapang leaves can be used to create the black water effect and slightly reduce the pH and soften the water too. Last but not least, we can also collect rain water as rain water is soft and of low pH. However, care must be taken to let the rain wash away the impurities in the air and only collect 15 minutes into the rainfall. Once everything is set, we need to consider which type of filtration to employ in our wild betta tanks. FILTRATION NEEDS

Depending on the species of wild bettas you are planning to keep, there are different types of filtrations to employ. For small bubble nesters, the most commonly used filtration is the good old sponge filter. However, I prefer to employ no

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

CONSERVING THE PURE HARMONISING THE FUTURE

Dreamfish Inc (S) Pte Ltd 221 Neo Tiew Crescent Singapore 718831 T: +65 6862 9391 E: enquiry@merlionarowana.com merlionarowana.com

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT Continued from Page 17

B. pugnax. This brilliantly coloured male shows off its bluish turquoise hues, and spade shaped tail.

filtration for them because they do not like current and prefer stagnantwater.However,doprovidefloatingplants(salviniaor duckweed), java fern or java moss to absorb the nitrates. Mouthbrooders, on the other hand, prefer gentle currents in their tank. For small to medium sized mouthbrooders, sponge or hang on filters would be sufficient. Bigger mouthbrooders would benefit from hang on filters or even canisters, coupled with sponge filters if need be. A simple tank set up for bubblenesters would be lots of Java moss with Java fern/Sumatera fern; and ketapang (Indian almond) leaves for the fishes to hide and female to retreat to when bullied by the male. Floating plants such as frogbits and duckweed would be good as cover and to absorb nitrates. Few film canisters for breeding can be placed on the different corners of the tank. Mouthbrooder tanks are usually more elaborate as the tanks are bigger. We can place PVC pipes, driftwood, ketapang leaves, moss, plants and floating plants. Some people do keep them in planted tanks. Regardless of any type of wild bettas, do remember to cover your tanks either by netting or acrylic cover as they are extremely good jumpers! FEEDING

In their natural habitat, wild bettas feed on insect larvae and fallen insects and other invertebrates. Live food commonly available in our LFS are tubifex worm, daphnia, live baby brine shrimp (BBS), adult brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, meal worms and pin heads (small crickets). Personally, I would prefer to feed my wild bettas mainly on good pellets or flakes. Pellets are healthier and more nutritious as most contain various essential vitamins and minerals. Larger mouthbrooders tend to accept pellets readily; on the other hand, picky bubblenesters are usually fed with daphnia and frozen bloodworms due to their small size. If tubifex worms are to be fed, it would be best to clean them thoroughly prior

B. pugnax Fact Sheet Body markings black body with slight green and sexual dimorphism: iridiscence, light green iridiscence on unpaired fins, absence of lateral blotch, pelvic fin usually black (sometimes red) with white tip. female is usually smaller, possess rounded dorsal and anal fins with the presence of egg spot. Bubble nesters or mouthbrooders

Mouthbrooder (up to 100 or more per spawn)

Size (from tip of of mouth to start of the tail):

Maximum of approximately 4â&#x20AC;? with females slightly smaller than males

Distribution:

Sumatera, Kalimantan, Malay Peninsula, Borneo, Singapore, Thailand

pH: ~6-7 Maintenance:

Temperature of 26-29Â°C Shallow to medium water with slight current

Diet:

Live and frozen worms, brine shrimp, small shrimps, pellets

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

B. persephone

B. persephone. The male tends to his occupied bubblenest, full of fries.

B. persephone Fact Sheet Size (from tip of of mouth to start of the tail):

Maximum of approximately 3.2cm with females slightly smaller than males

Distribution:

Ayer Hitam, Muar (Johor, Malaysia)

pH: ~5 Maintenance:

Temperature of 26-29°C Shallow water of about 4-5” Prefers black water habitat and tank set up

Diet:

Daphnia, live and frozen worms, brine shrimp

to feeding. Both daphnia and tubifex worms are good foods to kick-start the appetite of newly arrived wild bettas. Do note that it is advisable to feed live and frozen foods as snacks once a week, or for conditioning females for breeding. BREEDING AND RAISING FRY

Breeding wild bettas is not difficult and yet it is not as easy as breeding Show Bettas. The trick is getting the water parameters right! Identification of the male and female is easy on some but quite tricky on others. Once everything is in place, we need to condition the pair, usually with live foods. We can place a pair or trio in a tank to increase the chance of pairing up, however, if your tank is big enough and you have a sizeable population, you can place all together and let them pair up. This works pretty well especially for mouth brooders. When a pair has formed, it is advisable to separate them from the rest of the community. Small bubblenesters from the Coccina complex is a little bit trickier. You really need to place a pair and try your luck. Once a pair has formed, we need to trigger them usually by changing their water. A large water change will usually stimulate the pair to breed almost instantaneously.

E USIV E X C L NTENT O WEBC

THE MOUTHBROODING PROCESS

For mouthbrooders, breeding can take place in mid water or at the tank bottom. The female will usually turn into their breeding colours and try to nudge the male. Yes, females are the ones to initiate breeding in mouthbrooding species!

If the male accepts the female, they will flare and perform the courtship circling dance ritual. Once done with the dance, the pair embraces and the female lays the white and large eggs on the male’s anal fin which acts as a cup to hold the eggs while they are being fertilized.Thereafter, the female will scoop the eggs into her mouth, and spits them out for the male to catch and brood. Once the eggs in her mouth are exhausted, they will repeat the process all over again until she has no more eggs. The male will brood the eggs for approximately 10-12 days, depending on the species and temperature. You can leave the male with the female during the brooding period and remove him nearer the hatching date. Another method that I like and used to do is to catch the male 1-2 days before the actual (harvest) date into a tank with plants and plenty of cover and let him release the fry there. Usually males will not eat the fry so you can condition him for few days inside before you return him to the breeding tank with the female. Females canbere-conditionedwhenthemaleismouthbrooding,toget ready for the next spawn. Mouthbrooders’fries are usually large, similar to guppy fries and they accept baby brine shrimp or daphnia readily upon release. Upon reaching 1cm in length, they can be weaned off live food and fed with pellets or flakes. BUBBLE NESTING BEHAVIOUR

Breeding bubble nesters is more similar to breeding show bettas. Since they are generally tiny 1ft tanks are preferred.The water level is kept to around 4-5 inches and the tank should be heavily planted. A ready male will create a thick bubble nest and try to entice the female. Once the embrace is over, the male will pick up the eggs and place them in the bubble nest. Once the fries hatch in 2-3 days’ time, they feed on infusoria present in the tank. Therefore, the tank should be filled with plenty of moss and ketapang leaves for this purpose and for the female to hide post spawning. After 5 days, they can be fed with daphnia or baby brine shrimp. Small bubblenesters like B. persephone can produce up to 20 eggs; and the 2nd spawn can be in another 2 weeks’ time. Normally, I will let them spawn twice, and have a mixture of fries in the parents’ tank for about 2 months, until the fries are around 1 -1.5 cm before I place them in a separate grow out tank. Bigger fry can be trained to eat sinking pellets and flakes. This ensures better growth and well-being. Usually there will be around 40 fries with the parents in the tank, therefore, more rigorous water change is required. The presence of fries in the tank will somehow stop the pair from breeding. However, once the fries are removed, from the parents’ tank, the pair will spawn again.

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

SHARED KNOWLEDGE

Dr. Tan Heok Hui and his wild side

s we delved into the world of wild Bettas, our team felt that our Species Spotlight is incomplete without an in-depth discussion with Singapore’s very own leading researcher on these beautiful fishes—Dr Tan Heok Hui (THH). To most enthusiasts of wild Bettas, Dr Tan’s work has been invaluable in their research on the care and identification of their lesser known cousins of B. splendens. To complete our look into wild Bettas, Poisson Passion (PP) managed to find time in Dr Tan’s busy schedule and find out more about the man, his work and passion for these feral beauties. Tell us a bit about yourself, what got you interested in ichthyology – the study of fishes?

all sorts of fishes. The B.splendens was one of my favourites. My passion for fishes continued on while I was in university, and by chance developed further when I signed up for a tour to Dr. Peter Ng’s laboratory during my first year in NUS. The hobbyist in me was very impressed and sad at the same time after I saw the vast collection of preserved specimens, especially of those species I desired to be able to keep in aquaria. So during all my school vacations, I volunteered to join these scientists on their field trips and learn about the natural habitats, at the same time, collect and keep some of these fishes for myself. As I got to know more about these fishes, I felt the urge to further my studies in the field of ichthyology. To the uninitiated, Bettas only exist as the colourful domesticated strains of B. splendens, and wild Bettas are the dull and boring cousins. Which key qualities of wild Bettas would you like to inform our readers that they are just as vibrant and fascinating as their showy cousins? PP:

Although wild bettas are not as colourful as the domesticated strains of B. splendens, they exhibit very interesting characteristics, which have been refined by evolution. For example, certain species will provide sibling care to new fry, helping the parents to defend and care for the new generation (documented for B. brownorum). Mouth flaring and oral brooding are also other interesting features for some wild betta species. If you are used to seeing B. splendens flare with their gaudy fins, seeing B. ideii flare at each other with their mouths will be an unforgettable sight! For oral brooders, the males will fast when they brood the eggs in their mouth, hence we have observed that the females may lay a small number of sterile eggs for the males to feed on during the brooding period (documented for B. ocellata). THH:

PP: What

aspect of wild Bettas got you interested in them, so much so, they became the subject for your Bachelor of Science thesis in 1996?

Dr Tan in the field. Although up to his neck with work, his passion for fishes manages to shine through!

My interest in keeping fishes and particularly in wild fighting fish species certainly helped! Back then, there was also an interesting scientific debate on the classification of species in the Pugnax complex, and I felt it would be an interesting topic to tackle, amongst other topics. THH:

PP: Thanks

to previous researchers and your team’s efforts, we now know there are 13 complexes with over 60 species of wild Bettas identified; do you think there will be more left undiscovered? Are there any field trips in the pipeline to start the search? THH: Yes, I do believe that there are at least five to ten more

Betta species left undescribed/to be discovered. I feel that there will be more species in the Ocellatus complex. Unfortunately, no future field trips are planned for the moment. As they can be costly affairs and we do not have sufficient funding to initiate such an expedition. Your research into wild Bettas must have brought the team and yourself to interesting locations. Care to share which location is the most memorable for you? Do you have any exciting stories to share? PP:

The most memorable field trip was in Kalimantan, Borneo. We were part of a survey team to survey a potential coal mining area. It was the most luxurious field camp that I ever experienced. As most of Borneo was covered in dense vegetation and trekking through the jungle was virtually impossible, we flew by helicopter to the camp site. Our sleeping quarters were converted shipping containers with all of the basic amenities built-in (flush toilet, hot water THH:

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

THH: When I was young, I was fascinated with fishes and kept

SHARED KNOWLEDGE

PP:

SHARED KNOWLEDGE

A well preserved specimen of B. anabatoides. All physical information about the fish is preserved for future study.

shower, air conditioning, laundry service)! Needless to say, I felt I was camping in five star comfort. It was also during the course of this field trip that we discovered B. compuncta. Tell us about the status of the genus Betta, are any of the complexes/species under threat? What are the main reasons responsible for the threat? PP:

Most of the wild Betta’s habitats are currently under threat from the clearing of forested habitats to make way for oil palm plantations. The Coccina complex is facing the worst problem of extinction in the wild, as their natural habitats – peat swamp forests are being felled and converted into oil palm plantations. Moreover, the Coccina complex is stenotopic/exclusively located in peat swamp habitats. The rate of decline for these habitats has been drastic, leading to a loss of than 70 % of total peat swamps. THH:

PP:

How can the average hobbyist help to improve the situation for these miniature beauties? Conservation through captive breeding, is that an option? THH: Well,

that can be an option, but this will not help the Betta species as a whole. Hobbyists may tend to keep the more colourful ones like B. livida, B. coccina, B. macrostoma, and will find the brownish drab colours of the large brown species, like B.anabatoides,B.spilotogena,boringanddull,hencenotmake the effort to maintain this fish in captivity. Further, a single wild Betta species may exhibit slight physical differences if collected from different locations, e.g. B. pugnax collected from Penang will show different characteristics from those collected in Johor, hence keeping these fishes apart and properly maintaining the species purity of the specific collection site would require much effort and hard work on hobbyists. It would be easier to work towards preserving the natural habitats, which would ensure the survival of not one species but a whole community of fishes living in the habitats. PP: Any key message to convey to hobbyists keen to pursue

ichthyology?

B. ideii. A typical mouth flaring stance

THH:

The work involved is tough and it will be more rewarding to pursue ichthyology if you have the passion and enthusiasm to discover more about fishes. Dr. Tan Heok Hui is an ichthyologist at the National University of Singapore (NUS), where he is a lecturer, managing editor of the Raffles Bulletin of Zoology, and holds a museum officer appointment at the upcoming Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum as of 1 April 2014 (previously known as the Raffles Museum of Biodiversity Research). Dr. Tan’s main interest lies in the systematics of Southeast Asian freshwater fishes, encompassing taxonomy, ecology and biogeography. His primary areas of research focus on neglected and de novo habitats such as peat swamp forests, swamp forests, and riparian habitats. On the local front, he is focused on ecology and conservation issues, and documenting the rising numbers of non-native fishes in Singapore. On top of academic pursuits, Dr.Tan is also an environmental consultant for various organisations such as the Public Utilities Board and National Parks Board.

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

F E AT U R E D F I S H

Crystal Red Shrimps Understanding these white and red bees By Alvin Chan

BACKGROUND/HISTORY OF THE CRYSTAL RED SHRIMP

WHERE AND HOW ARE THEY BRED?

Being a genetic mutant, bred specifically to show its characteristic white and red colours, the CRS had evolved into a shrimp that is sensitive to minute changes in water chemistry. Hence, they can only be bred in captive/tank conditions. And to-date, any outdoor pond breeding efforts to mass produce these tiny invertebrates have been for naught. This is also the reason why most CRS are highly prized and priced, both for the effort and the set up to maintain them!

Caridina cantonensis. A SS grade Hinomaru. The abdomen of the shrimp is almost white, except for the spots of red.

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

F E AT U R E D F I S H

he pedigree of the Crystal Red Shrimp (“CRS”) roaming around most CRS tanks can be traced back to a colony of nondescript black striped shrimps owned by Mr. Hisayasu Suzuki of Japan, way back in 1991. The predecessors of these white and red (sometimes black) beauties were just bee shrimps with black stripes, but Mr. Suzuki selectively bred them until he noticed a single red bee shrimp in a batch of thousands. After generations of selective breedingbasedonthatsingleredbee,MrSuzukifinallyreached the ‘true’ red bee. The term “Crystal Red Shrimp” was coined in 1996, and subsequently patented by this fanatical breeder! From then on, CRS took the aquarium industry by storm and the shrimps have been continuously refined by Mr Suzuki and many other breeders in their quest for that perfect specimen.

F E AT U R E D F I S H

Anatomy of the Crystal Red Shrimp Antennules Carapace Rostrum

Abdomen

Caridina cantonensis. Another colour variant, the red Pinto.

Maxillipeds Pleopods

Uropod

Walking legs

KNOWING THE GRADES

To most non shrimpers, being called an A, or a SS is a big insult, but for keen shrimpers, having that extra S for their homebred CRS may mean a difference of a couple of hundred dollars should they sell their products. This is a very big deal indeed! To clear up the muddy waters, we did a simple and easy to understand chart below and show you how to determine the different grades for the CRS, based on their body patterns. S/N

Description

Grade

Banded

V-toothed / Tiger Tooth

Hinomaru: The round red/black dot at the back of the body

Hinomaru No Entry

Hinomaru Little Lips

Mosura: Only the head of the shrimps are red, body will be white to tail

Mosura Crown: There is a small dot on the top of the head seemingly looking like a ‘crown’.

Flowerhead: Distinctive patterns showing on the sides of the head

A or S

23 Caridina cantonensis. A S grade CRS taking a stroll. Notice the well defined bands of red and white on the shrimp.

SSS

Another alternative grading scale used in other regions, is to classify the CRS based on the quality of the coloration and shell thickness of the particular CRS, rather than the above grading method which is based on body markings. Caridina cantonensis. Another SS grade. This time a“No-Entry”Hinomaru. Notice the red spot with a white line across.

SEXING OF THE INDIVIDUAL

Due to the size of these beautiful little pets, most hobbyists are unable to sex them until at least 1.2cm to 1.5cm. The most common way for hobbyist to actually know if their shrimps are male or female will be to look at the shrimps’ overall body shape. Males tend to have a more streamline body while the female will have a body with a distinctive bigger ‘belly’ at the second segment of their carapace.There are many‘mistakes’in reading the body shapes, as the long selective breeding carried out on the CRS has caused some of the shrimps to possess a slightly different body shape.

Alternatively, the other sexing method is to look at the antennules, which are the shorter pair of antennae located at the rostrum. Males will have longer antennules, whilst females tend to have shorter antennules. I hope non shrimpers have gotten a better understanding of the CRS after reading the article and will be keen to know more about these fragile little Bees. Stay tuned to the next issue, as we explore down the tip of this CRS iceberg. To my fellow shrimpers: Happy Shrimping

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

NEW TO OUR SHORES

ATM PARADIGM (DECHLORINATOR)

LOW KEYS ULTRA SUPPLE (CRYSTAL RED SHRIMP FOOD)

From S$12 for a 120ml bottle

From S$24 for a 30g pack

Fans of the reality TV show, Tanked, would not be a stranger to this product! Introduced to our shores in mid-2013, this chlorine/chloramineremoverandwaterconditionerismaking the other established water conditioner brands run for their money.

A new (in Singapore that is) pellet food product for your precious Crystal Red Shrimp (“CRS”) was recently introduced by Aquarist Chamber. Sold in Japan, this highly effective pellet food greatly enhances the colour and growth for those fragile CRS.

Boasting a natural chemical formula (can you believe its Vitamin C?) to remove chlorine/chloramine from our tap water, Paradigm has exceeded our expectations on what a water conditioner should do. This just proves that all-natural ingredients in treating your tap water are the way forward.

Containing ingredients like kale, brown rice yeast, beer yeast, asparagus yeast and essential minerals, it is an all in one meal for the growing, conditioning and grooming of CRS. Seems like shrimps these days are eating better than humans!

The sole distributor for ATM products, Green Chapter, swears by the effectiveness and efficiency of Paradigm, and uses it exclusively for all their new tank setups. Furthermore, a certain new aquascape specialist shop (opened earlier on 22 Feb) uses Paradigm as well. They reported their newly arrived Apistos pairs were placed in three week old Paradigm treated tanks and some started breeding. Apistos lovers please don’t rush over to buy them.The boss has placed the proud parents under confinement and they are not for sale.

The key feature of Ultra Supple is the ability of the pellets to gradually breakdown into micro granules, forming a “buffet ring” around the main pellet. This allows the juvenile shrimps to join in the feeding frenzy of the adults, ensuring they get to fill their stomachs. Perhaps this contributes to Low Keys claim that survival rates for juveniles are greatly increased after using Ultra Supple! Where to Buy: contact Aquarist Chamber @ 6635 6041

That really convinced us on the effectiveness of using Vitamin C as a water conditioner. One gripe though: Paradigm comes in only 120ml, 240ml and 470ml bottles. It’s just not costeffective for monster tanks! Where to Buy: Contact Green Chapter @ 6775 7376 P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

NEW TO OUR SHORES