Poisson Passion Issue 8

Issue N°. 8 • Nov/Oct 2014

MICA N°. 178/12/2013

A PUBLICATION FOR HOBBYISTS

newbie info

featured fish

Apistogramma, South America’s Dwarf Cichlids Lateral Line thoughts

Why does My Exotic Fish Costs So Much?

Sunken Spectacle:

Illuminating your Aquascape

Dragon Bettas

A Splendid Variant © Robi Iskandar

POISSONPASSION.COM

Filtering Options I

salty depths

Understanding the Marine Aquarium sharing knowledge

Being a Show Betta Judge



T H E C O L O P H ON

In This Issue Issue N°.8 / Nov/Oct 2014

04.

08.

10.

13.

THE COMM

LATERAL LINE THOUGHTS

MARINE SEGMENT

SUNKEN SPECTACLE

News from our Community

Why does my Exotic Fish costs so much?

The Types of Marine tanks

Illuminating your Aquascape

18.

22.

25.

28.

species spotlight

SHARING KNOWLEDGE

FEATURED FISH

NEWBIE INFO

Dragon Bettas

Being a Show Betta Judge

Apistogramma

Types of Filtration I

29.

L DIGITA SIV E E XC LU

31.

34.

35.

new to our shores

BETTA BARRACKS

Latest Products on Sale

DIY Your Automated Betta Barracks

Directory

The Caudal

Editor’s Note For our closing issue of 2014, we go back to the basics and focus our attention on a humble fish which might have started the aquarium addiction for most of us, Bettas! From interviewing a renowned show Betta judge, to building a Betta Barracks (digital version only!), we are ecstatic to present issue 8 – the show Betta edition!

Expanding our editorial coverage, Poisson Passion is proud to introduce a new marine segment to our pages. At the behest of many readers and friends, we kick off this segment and begin our salty adventure with “The different types of marine tanks”. WARNING: you may be tempted to reach into Davy Jones’ locker after going through page 8. ARGGGGH! We expanded our network of distributors and ventured into Australia, visiting established LFS’ in Sydney and Melbourne. Follow our road trip Down Under on our Facebook page, or see the highlights on page 4.

The second half of 2014 seems like a great time for Betta competitions! Flip over to “The Comm”, as we bring you the highlights of Betta competitions from Singapore and Australia.

Staying true to our promise as “A publication for hobbyists” we went in search of a dedicated Betta hobbyist who has “semi-recovered” from the Betta poison. Known online as “robi2000”, he was one of a few hobbyists fanatically breeding the “Dragon Betta” purely to produce the ideal variant which has stable colour, great form and competition grade finnage! Robi Iskandar writes on his experiences and research on this awesome Betta in our Species Spotlight (page 14).

We hope the lineup will whet your appetite for 2014 and we are looking forward to 2015, as we look towards presenting more content to our READERS! To the next fish

Vincent Koh Founding Editor, Poisson Passion

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

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the c o m M



The past couple of months had been great for us, as Poisson Passion made its way Down Under.

Our editor visited quite a few LFS’ in Sydney and Melbourne, and managed to get our magazines distributed in Australia!

Here are some of the highlights to the trip.

An imposing Great White stands guard in Majestic Aquariums (Sydney Australia)

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A prehistoric sentinel stares into the sunset at Kellyville Pets (Sydney, Australia)

Beautiful graffiti tags for Subscape Aquarium (Melbourne, Australia)

Variety of corals available at Aquaristic (Sydney, Australia)

Andrew, owner of Labyrinth Aquarium, pets his favourite oscar (Sydney, Australia)

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Judges hard at work

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Betta League 2013/2014

Betta Competitions – Singapore and Australia 20 June 2014, Betta Premier League 2013/2014 (Third Leg)

An impressive show Betta competition which saw a total of 440 entries, a quarter of which were foreign entries! Organised by two equally impressive show Betta hobbyists, Iven Teh of Iven Bettas and Ezekiel Lyon Goh! The Betta Premier League runs on a unique competition format where competitors/hobbyists accumulate points for every winning entry.

The final results are tallied at the end of the season (coming up in 20 Nov 2014) and the highest tally will be crowned Grand Champion! The League really pushes competitors/hobbyists to maintain their breeding/grooming efforts!

Poisson Passion was glad to cover the Third Leg and we saw many amazing entries. Nevermind the quaint competition grounds, it’s the fish we are after! Look out for the final leg of the League on 20 Nov 2014 held at Pasir Ris East CC. A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

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29 Aug 2014, Sydney Splendens Society 1st international Betta Show

Special report by Jodi-Lea Matheson (Fishchick Aquatics)

Todd Knight & Dennis Tan Chee Sim scrutinizing the plakats. © Ezekiel Lyon Goh

Talk about getting thrown into the deep end! For a first show, it was huge! 387 entries from 6 different countries, assessed by judges from Singapore (Dennis Tan Chee Sim), Thailand (Ezekiel Lyon Goh) and Australia (Todd Knight).

The staff of the host business, River Reef Reptile, laboured furiously to prepare the showroom for the competition and the resulting display was stunning!

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The most anticipated result was the Breeders Category, a special division for hobbyists to showcase their own-bred stock. The judges were most impressed with the quality of the local Bettas and forthright with their praise of these fish. The Champion was a lovely blue masked Halfmoon Male bred by Emily Molenaar of Beautiful Bettas.

Champion Australian Bred Fish © Ezekiel Lyon Goh

Grand Champion of Show © Ezekiel Lyon Goh

Judging for the Grand Champion of Show was difficult. Despite the rigours of importing and quarantine, many stunning fish made the journey “down under”. An extraordinary red “Samurai” Halfmoon Plakat owned by Yolandi McConville of Belfiore Betta and bred by Paitune Iamsrisuwan, was eventually crowned King!

Hearty congratulations and a job well done to all involved. We hope to see you all again at the next International Comp, hosted

by Betta Australis in October 2014. You Betta believe it!

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12 Sep 2014, InterBetta Spartan Cup

The InterBetta Spartan Cup was held in Serangoon Community Club recently, with about 400 entries competing!

Helmed by Randy Goh of InterBetta Biz, the competition stands out from its peers with a panel of local and overseas judges; Singapore – Dr Hsu Li Chieh and Mr Roy Cheok, Thailand – Mr Pichet, Indonesia – Mr Joty Atmadjaja and Malaysia – Mr Rosdi Bin Ahmad, all notable personalities in the show Betta community.

07 A visitor stares intently at the fishes brought in by Interfish Thailand

The InterBetta Spartan Cup 2014

The international panel of judges debating on the winning entry

Poisson Passion was glad to cover this inaugural event. We are anticipating a bigger turnout for the next instalment, due later part of the year. So start your grooming regime now. THIS IS BETTA! A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

L AT E R A L L I N E T H O U G H T S



Why does my Exotic Fish cost so much?

By Vincent Koh

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rowsing through the livestock updates posted online by Live Fish Shops (“LFS”), you spot a familiar species which you have coveted for some time now and by a stroke of luck, your LFS have finally imported that special fish. You hurry to the LFS, eager to see the “Holy Grail”, with bewilderment clouding your mind as you stare intently at the wondrous fish swimming in front of you. Excitement coursing through your body, the thrill increases as you notice the fish looks quite healthy and is chomping down on food. Good sign that they are well acclimatised and parasite free.

Without a price on the glass panel, you ask the LFS owner for it. Your eyes involuntary pop and jaw drops after hearing about the exorbitant price quoted. Though the price is just above your budget, you involuntarily query yourself, “Am I being fleeced?”

Before other nasty thoughts creep in to your mind, let’s take a step back and look at how that exotic fish came to be in the aquarium in front of you.

The collectors venture into uncharted river tributaries, usually taking days to reach the location. Harvesting is the easy part, the return trip back would prove challenging.

With the most basic of aeration methods, the harvested livestock will have to endure the long stressful journey back.

This would see about 60% of the livestock arrive alive. Most perish due to stress and disease. Obtaining premium bred fish should be cheaper? Do remember the back breaking effort put in by the breeder to source, groom, line/cross breeding and selecting the desired offspring. Most breeding attempts require several generations to produce a small population of the right fish! For the above, add about 20% to 30% for the hazard pay and time cost to obtaining the fish.

Freight

Shipping livestock is usually a tricky affair, and with time being an important factor, the shipment is sent out via air freight. With the rise in fuel costs and other airline charges, freight charges are increasing and it does not help that most of the weight being transported is water!

Point of Origin

For wild caught fish, the collection points are usually in some far flung location which requires the risking of life and limb.

To be continued on at pg 13!

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N



S A LT Y D E P T H S

The Types of Marine Tanks FO, FOWLR and Reef Article contributed by Singapore Reef Club Edited by Vincent Koh

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The playful clownfish hosting in an anemone © PeeBee (Singapore Reef Club)

Gauging the costs involved and the challenge of testing your fish keeping skills, the urge for achievement overrides the monetary factor! So now, which type of marine tank should you choose?

The FO, FOWLR and Reef tanks

Although the choices available are: Fish Only (“FO”), Fish Only With Live Rock (“FOWLR”) and Reef tanks, the complexity in the setup and maintenance for each tank type ranges from intermediate to advanced, with the Reef tank situated at the advanced end.

Each tank type has its unique feature which endears to the marine hobbyist, for example, FO tanks are favoured by hobbyists when they are keen to set up a predatory tank filled with fishes such as Eels, scorpions/Lion fish, Triggers, grouper, snappers, or a peaceful community filled with fast swimming Tangs/Surgeons, mixed with wrasses or clownfish. Some decoration in the form of dead corals, or some live rock is encouraged to be placed in the tank, providing cover for the fishes.

As the name suggests, FOWLR tanks are FO tanks with more live rocks placed inside. The increase in the population of live rocks adds to the colour of the tank environment, with corals, anemones exhibiting their vibrant colours amidst the playful fishes!

The reef tank is the epitome of marine aquariums, and as the name suggests, it is a mini slice of the coral reef found P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

in oceans of the world. Populated with Large-Polyp Stony (“LPS”) and Small-Polyp Stony (“SPS”) corals, the emphasis is more on the live rocks than fish stocks. Much attention is required to maintain sufficient levels of lighting and mineral additives to ensure the Reef tank flourishes. Fish stocks are an afterthought for the Reef tank keeper! T1 For the newly initiated, the FO tank would be an ideal starting point, though easier to manage, would require some background knowledge on the basics of fishkeeping. As the start of our marine segment, Poisson Passion guides you through this exciting process!

Setting up an FO Tank

Next, a new FO tank will require the following:

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- Water chiller/fan (to provide the optimum temperature) - Protein skimmer (to remove excess

Refer to the TIPS via their respective numbers on the right hand side!

After visiting online marine forums and ogling at the myriad of colourful fishes, corals and invertebrates, your freshwater hobbyist heart wavers and leans toward setting up a marine aquarium. Researching on the various costs involved in setting your saltwater tank, you hesitate, but the variety of beautiful marine species pulls you back on track.

S A LT Y D E P T H S

food and waste from the tank) - Lighting (if corals are to be kept, it is advisable to invest in a better LED light set) - Wave maker for water circulation.

- Hydrometer for measuring salinity of water Optional equipment

- UV Sterilizer (for control of algae and diseases) - Ozonizer (to keep water clear) - Fluidize reactor for Phosphate or Nitrate remover media.

- Refractometer – A more accurate way of measuring salinity of the water

The sump tank forms the heart of the marine tank. The critical equipment for a marine tank; protein skimmer (left) and chiller (right). © PeeBee (Singapore Reef Club)

After the equipment is set up and the tank is filled with the appropriate saltwater, it is time to cycle your tank.

Tank Cycling

A marine FO tank is similar to a freshwater tank setup, the biological requirements are almost identical, with the exception of a freshwater/ saltwater environment. Hence, having filter media which allows the growth of beneficial bacteria (“BB”) is essential and the proper cycling of the new tank to populate BB is critical. Review our first issue to know more about the steps for proper tank cycling!

Caulastrea furcata The mesmerizing Candy Cane Coral is an excellent LPS for beginner reefers

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Acanthastrea spp A beautiful acan coral “glows” under the mesmerising blue light © PeeBee (Singapore Reef Club)

TIP 1: Avoid having Butterfly Fish and Angel Fish species in reef tanks. Both families feed on LPS, whilst Butterfly fish species will feed on SPS corals too!

tip!

TIP 2: Hobbyists who have a used tank on hand should check the thickness of the glass panels before setting up. As salt water tends to be denser, compared to fresh water, the added stress may cause your tank walls to crack!

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

S A LT Y D E P T H S

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Amblyeleotris randalli Also known as Randall’s goby, this beautiful specimen flares for the camera. © PeeBee (Singapore Reef Club)

Choosing Livestock

Whilst the tank takes its natural course to cycle, use the time to research on the types of fish intended for the tank.

Although a predatory tank is impressive, the wild caught lion/ scorpion fish requires some conditioning to wean them off live foods and onto commercial pellets. Further, their natural instinct to prey on small fish would restrict the tank from having colourful gobies or playful clownfishes.

On the other hand, non-predatory fish like Tangs/ Surgeon fish may be difficult to be kept in a species only tank, as their aggressive nature towards similar species may ultimately lead to the death of more than one fish, although this can be mitigated to by planning the sequence of fish introduction.

[TIP: Introduce least aggressive fish into the tank first, to enable them to have a headstart in establishing territory. After a couple of weeks, slip in the aggressive ones.]

Water Parameters for FO tanks

After four to six weeks of cycling, your tank should be ready to accept its new inhabitants. However, some tests should be done on the saltwater before you go on your spending spree.

The water parameters of your FO tank should ideally be (or close) the following: – – – –

– –

– –

Salinity, 1.018 ~ 1.025 Ammonia, < 0.1ppm Nitrite, < 0.2 ppm Nitrate, < 10 ppm (fishes can tolerate higher nitrate levels, but long term exposure will affect the fish colouration and health) Alkalinity, KH – 7 to 11 dKH Phosphate, < 0.03 ppm ( Fishes can tolerate higher levels of Phosphate, but if Nitrate levels are high, the tank is likely to experience algae bloom) Temperature, < 30°c pH, 8.0 ~ 8.3

Once the test readings return the results suggested above, it is time to introduce new occupants to the tank. Don’t forget to quarantine the new live stocks before introduction, this good practice will ensure future additions to last long and well for your viewing pleasure!

We wish you good luck on your new marine tank. Stay tuned to our next issue as we introduce the wonders of a FOWLR/ Reef tank!

P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

S U N K E N S P E C TA C L E

Illuminating your Aquascape

By Zhuang Changzhong

13

01

A

beautiful aquascape cannot be appreciated without brilliant light rays illuminating every corner of the aquarium, highlighting the radiant hues of lush leaves and the shimmering glow of gliding fishes. Not only will light illuminate the aquascape, the correct type of lighting helps plants to grow and flourish. Hence, the benefits of light cannot be replaced by any amount of nutrients or carbon dioxide.

Measuring Light – Quality and Quantity matters

The quality of light is typically measured using the kelvin, K, which measures the colour of light. For aquatic plants, they use light in the red to blue colour spectrum most efficiently, which roughly translates to the range: 5000K to 6500K. However, Kelvin is still not an accurate measurement, as Kelvin measurements do not reflect a specific colour, but a range of colours.

Traditionally, aquarists use Wattage to measure the quantity of light required for their aquascape.Calculated by dividing light wattage by tank capacity (gallons), the wattage per

gallon (WPG) measures how much light is received by aquatic plants. Generally, the higher the WPG, the more light the plants will get.

Unfortunately, more energy emitted will not be useful if the light is not very efficient, or if the light is far from the aquascape. As these factors are not captured by the WPG measurement, relying on WPG alone to calculate your plants’ needs may not be ideal.

One solution is to use Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR), which is the radiation used by plants for photosynthesis.

However, this can only be measured by a specialized PAR meter, which is rather expensive. The next best alternative, therefore, is to rely on reviews and personal experimentation.

In any case, light technology is still being perfected, where even the best aquarium lights are finding it difficult to replicate the sun’s rays. However, technological progress is catching up. Read our Product Introduction segment for such a breakthrough!

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

S U N K E N SP E C TA C L E



Light Types – FL or LED?

The two most popular types of lights are the Fluorescent tubes and the Light Emitting Diode (LED) lights. Fluorescent tubes are the bedrock of the aquarium lighting industry, and have been used for decades. The common types encountered will be the T8 and the T5 tubes. The ‘T’ stands for Tube, and the number measures the thickness of the tube in eighths of an inch (i.e. T5 is 5/8 Inch thick).

However, the technology behind these lights is vintage, as other lights match and exceed the fluorescent lights’ effectiveness. Nevertheless, these lights are still used because they are affordable and easily replaceable.

LEDs have taken the aquarium industry by storm, as it uses less power, lasts longer, and does not produce much heat.

The drawback? Initial investment cost. However, being long lasting and energy efficient, long term savings from utility bills easily justify the costly price tag. In recent years, they have been proven to be effective for growing plants, though some still dispute the effectiveness of LED lights, the general consensus indicates they are preferred over fluorescent tubes.

Armed with more knowledge on measuring light and the types available, we progress to using lights for plant growth.

03

For aquariums without carbon dioxide injection, it is recommended that a break be implemented between lighting periods. Instead of having a continuous 8 hour photoperiod, split it into two 4 hour blocks, with a rest of 4 hours in between. Using an auto timer is an excellent way to achieve this!

The break allows plants to stop photosynthesis, and replenish the carbon dioxide that was depleted by the earlier photoperiod. Although this is not as effective as actually using carbon dioxide injection, it may help your plants’ growth to an extent.

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If you are using many lights, it is wise to switch them on one at a time. This reduces stress to the fauna, where a sudden intense burst of light may cause them to jump out of the aquarium, or dart about and injure themselves.

Light spread

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Light Duration - Photoperiod

The ideal photoperiod is 8 hours per day. Any longer, and you risk algae blooms. Furthermore, plants need to rest, as photosynthesis does saturate beyond a certain point.

OU DID Y ?

KNOW

tip!

A photoperiod of 8 hours daily is for mature aquariums, where the plants have settled into the aquarium and are growing well.

If the tank is newly set up, or a rescape is just done, it may be wiser to start with 6 hours, and slowly work your way up.

It is ideal for the light to be directly over the planted scape to maximize plant growth. Thus, most will centre their light sets over the aquarium to obtain optimal spread. To increase the spread, simply raise the light above the aquarium, but this effectively reduces light intensity.

Where the lights do not sufficiently reach the edges of the aquascape, more than one light-set will be required to cover the scape. LED lights offer some flexibility in increasing the spread of the lights, as certain LED light set models have the diodes placed up to the edge of the light to increase spread.

For fluorescent lights, they tend to be more diffusive and some light will naturally shine upwards. To redirect light into the

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aquarium, most fluorescent light sets come with reflectors to reflect light that travels upwards back into the aquarium.

Light penetration

Aquatic plants, especially foreground ones, need higher light intensity to penetrate the water column. The required light intensity can be provided by ensuring that the light-set does not hang too high from the tank bottom. Alternatively, lights with higher wattage can be used.

Although wattage has its limitations, as highlighted above, it is a generally safe assumption that the higher the wattage, the higher the power, and higher the intensity. Further, for LED lights, it is important to note the wattage per bulb.

On the other hand, fluorescent lights tend to better illuminate the area around the aquarium, given their diffusive nature.

This may be useful for aquarists who situate their aquariums in beautiful surroundings.

Illuminating the Aquascape

Lights are absolutely crucial for a plants’ healthy growth, and hence it is important for aquascapers to carefully consider the many factors that go into buying a light. It is generally understood that lighting is the defining factor for plant growth, and the quality of light purchased sets the standard for how well and how fast plants grow.

Use the right light!

Some sets disperse the wattage of the entire light-set across many bulbs, which reduce the penetration per bulb, while others concentrate the wattage into a few bulbs, providing more penetration per bulb.

Aesthetic Effects of Light used

While fluorescent lights diffuse lights throughout the entire beam, LED lights rely on small pinpricks of lights. The effect of this is that LED lights tend to create shimmers across the water wherever the water current and ripples catches the lights. For some, this is a beautiful effect that adds to the aesthetic appeal of the aquascape. Further, some LED sets come with blue lights for aesthetic effect at night, where it mimics the dim glow of moonlight, and casts the aquascape into an unearthly light.

Image Descriptions 01

A traditional fluorescent T5 light tube

02

A cutting edge lighting system utilising a LED light cluster

03

An improved space saving coiled fluorescent light tube.

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The right lighting serves two functions; improve plant growth and enhance your viewing pleasure of the aquascape.

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lateral line  th o ughts

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Continued from Page 6

Common sense dictate that over packing fishes in a limited volume of stagnant water is lethal to fishes, so they cannot be packed like sardines to save space. Add another 50% to 60% for the airfreight charges.

Dead On Arrival (“DOA”)

The bags of fish finally arrive at your LFS and they are promptly opened for inspection. Often than not, casualties are encountered and this represents a loss for the LFS. Although DOA is compensated, the repayment is done on the next shipment. Economics dictate that the sale price of the remaining fish appreciates to pay for the expensive freight charges incurred. The expected appreciation would be an additional 10% to 15%.

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Quarantine

The newly arrived fish are weak from stress and many are showing symptoms of Ich and loss of appetite. The LFS will send them to the quarantine tanks for immediate treatment, lest more fishes die.

Much care is painstakingly taken to nurse the fishes back to health and this usually entails a time period of between three days to a week of monitoring, water changes and dosing medication. During this time, the precious fish cannot be sold, while rental fees and utilities are still being incurred. Add another 5% to 10% for the time spent in quarantine.

The real value paid

After adding up the various costs incurred, the price which you are paying for that choice specimen has actually doubled (about 125%) from when it was collected, and surprisingly, we have not even looked at the profit margin which allows the LFS to stay in operation. So when next time you feel that the LFS is trying to fleece you, remember the above points and know that a LFS is a business which needs to balance costs and maintain profits to stay in operation. Only with a respectable income from the business, the LFS owner is able to provide for their family and be driven to source for more exotic fishes to sustain our hobby!

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Image Descriptions 01

Fishes are double bagged to prevent accidental spillage. Notice how the styrofoam box is packed tightly to fully utilise freight charges.

02

Newly arrived fishes are quarantined for disease treatment and are removed for sale after a few days.

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Fishes are packed in styrofoam boxes for export.

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Boxes are unpacked to reveal the treasures within.

The above is a rant by the Editor and it represents his personal views, though Poisson Passion neither reject nor support his ‘mad’ rantings, we like to keep an open mind and believe some truth lies hidden within his views.

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

species sp  o tlight



Dragon Bettas

A Splendid variant on an old favourite

By Robi Iskandar

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B. splendens Black Dragon hmpk Photos courtesy of Robi Iskandar

S

ince betta keeping became a popular fish-keeping hobby, serious hobbyists/breeders (“breeders”) have selectively bred bettas to tease out their vibrant colours and intricate patterns. Breeders will select particular colours or patterns as an objective, and breed their Bettas through many generations to achieve that objective. With the introduction of the marble and copper genes, a breeder’s creativity has been unleashed, producing ever more patterns and colours each year. In the process, they have shaped the wondrous and colourful world of Bettas that we know today!

Back in 2009, a new type of Betta colour/trait emerged unexpectedly. They were mysteriously termed “Red Dragons”. With red fins, and a body covered with “thick”, white scales, this unique B. splendens variant sensationalised the global Betta community!

The Origins of Dragon Bettas (“Dragons”)

Originating from Thailand, the Dragons were one of the more exciting breakthroughs seen. With such an awe inspiring name, it was no surprise that several Thai breeders claimed they were the talented breeder behind this strain. However, the claims were never substantiated.

Back then, the Thai breeders were experimenting with the breeding of copper and red Bettas, hybridising the offspring with wild Bettas (suspected to be either B. imbellis or B. mahachai). This “hybridisation” resulted in a new trait that produces distinctive thick scaling, different from bettas with the usual iridescence scales.

Possibly due to the “wild betta” cross, this new strain of B. splendens developed thick, armour-like scales which covered the whole body. This type of betta was given the “Dragon” name (possibly inspired by the scales of dragon fish/arowana).

This trait usually produce white (sometimes greenish) scales on a Betta. With age, the scales of the Dragon tends to thicken and becomes more pronounced, often covering the whole body.

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Like any new Betta trait, once the colour of the fish is able to breed true, work will start on perfecting the finnage.

Nowadays, the Dragon trait can be found on a variety of fin types, i.e. veiltails, plakats, SDs, HMPKs and HMs and even CTs (although this is still quite rare).

A Prized Commodity

As I noted earlier, the original dragon betta is a red based betta with a set of matte white scales. More recently, due to outcrosses to bettas of different colours, bettas of different colours and thick scales have emerged. They can be silver, grey, shiny white or even have a similar colour to the betta’s base colour. Due to this explosion of colours and an almost insatiable demand for more colours of Dragons, there are even cases of breeders claiming that their bettas are Dragons to sell at a higher price. So how do you identify a dragon?

Identifying a Dragon

The key things which determine and classify a Dragon are: Fins, Base Body colour and Outer Scales.

(i) Fins When Dragons first appeared on the Betta scene, they were usually Red Dragons with red fins. This is probably due to the dominance of the red Betta used in breeding Red Dragons.

However, this does not mean that other colours of Dragons do not exist.

Breeders have since crossed the red dragon with other betta colours like yellow, gold, copper etc. In particular, the marble crosses, which have allowed the creation of many variation in fin colours.

Generally, the first generation of a pairing of a red dragon with another colour variant would yield dominant red fins (ie redwash), but subsequent breeding attempts through careful selection of breeder fish, a breeder can maintain the colour of the fins to one which they desire. Currently, there are a variety of coloured dragons, from yellow, mustard gas (“MG”), gold, red gold, white, copper, black copper, purple and even marbled (sometimes called “fancy”) dragons.

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S

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Copper Lace male, they are usually mistaken as Black Dragons. © Ezekiel Lyon Goh

A Black Dragon flaring, displaying his full finnage

White Dragon female

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An interesting aspect of Dragons is the “encroachment” of the thick scales onto the fins with age. For example, some of the white scaling can be seen on the fins for older Dragons. This is one of the unique traits that makes keeping a Dragon exciting. (ii) Base Body Colour In all aspects, this is the key feature of identifying a Dragon.

How so? Imagine a tile setup in our home. Mature Dragons can be differentiated from other bettas by a thick outer scale colour on its body, with body colour filling the spaces between the scales. This is similar to having tiles and grouts.

You are able to determine the hue of the scales of the Dragon by looking at the base body colour of the fish. Base body colour in bettas can have a few varieties namely: brown, red, yellow, black, cambodian, blond, cello, copper and potentially marble as well. The base body colour, combined with the thick outer scales creates a different colour for the Dragon’s body. Understanding the base body colour, can improve the quality of a breeder’s dragon betta stock, by emphasizing the contrast between the body and fin colour appearance.

Gold Dragon Male

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(iii) Outer Scales Outer scale of the body in a dragon stock appear to be painted with white/matt/silver colour, some of them “bleed” onto fins and cover the head area. We still can see the base body colour near the mouth and belly, creating an impression that this betta has been dip into white matt paint. That was the ideal dragon trait on body colour. Bear in mind when the fish was young, this scale development will not be so intense.

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A pair of Black Dragons in courtship. Male on left, female on right.

If the outer scale is matte white in colour and covering a dark base body colour like red, black or brown, in combination with red fins, would make a red Dragon as we know today. Similarly with light base body, combining with the corresponding fin colour we can have yellow dragon, MG dragon and red dragon with cambo body.

The Black Dragon

My personal favourite would be the Black Dragon, as it possesses a very unique trait: the white on black colour contrast. Hence, the challenge in breeding them is in bringing out the ideal black fins (similar to the melano betta), black body and white scales.

Through personal experience, breeding Black Dragons can be very challenging, as redwash on the fins consistently appear in the spawn, producing a high percentage of Red Dragons and a very low percentage of fries being true Black Dragons.

Due to the rarity of the Black Dragon occurring in a spawn and marketing gimmicks, it is hard to differentiate whether the Black Dragon you are buying is a masked copper lace betta or the real deal. Only the breeders are able to confirm the lineage, so go with a trusted source.

Red Dragon male

I hope this brief article will bring you some insight into the development of the Dragon Betta and raise your interest in breeding a better Dragon!

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On Judging Show Bettas An interview with Ezekiel Lyon Goh Lyon is also the first batch of IBC certified judges for Area 6 (South East Asia and Pacific) where he has judged in many regional shows, both IBC sanctioned and non-sanctioned. He is also one of the very few foreigners to be invited to judge in Thailand, and is the first Singaporean to be invited to judge a Betta show in Australia.

Currently based in Bangkok, where he does wholesale, retail and transhipping ornamental fishes as his main business, Lyon is also a founding member of a new global movement, aimed at changing and improving the current show standards, as well as educating the public correctly on the idea of showing Bettas.

How did you start your betta hobby? How long have you kept bettas? Any achievements to share, i.e. new colours, created a line/colour etc.?

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I was rearing common aquarium fishes since the age of 10 and one trip to a LFS kick started my Betta hobby. I wanted to try breeding fishes and Bettas seem to be one of the easier fishes to breed and rear.

As of 2014, I’ve been keeping and showing Bettas for 12 years.

I have always been more interested in showing and meeting new friends through competitions; breeding fishes is just secondary and pretty much for fun.

What was the most memorable moment for you as a hobbyist, and why?

I would say it would be the attendance and accreditation of me as being the first batch of certified IBC judges in Area 6. At 17 years old, it was quite a big thing for me to be accredited with a certificate like that. Also it is through this course that I got to know so many overseas friends with the same interest and we became good friends over the years.

Do show betta judges need certification from IBC? What are the criteria for being a show betta judge?

If you are keen to judge in an IBC sanctioned show, then IBC accreditation is necessary. However, due to the differences in views and the numerous restrictions before a show can be IBC sanctioned, many show organizers choose not to sanction their show, which means one doesn’t need to be an IBC certified judge to judge in these shows.

I believe one of the first and foremost criterion a show betta judge must have is integrity and impartiality. Skills are important as well but it can be developed over time.

Obviously there have been a lot of advancements in breeding bettas, how does IBC stay current on judging rules/criteria?

Advancements and development in Bettas are usually faster in South East Asia as breeders here produce more Bettas every month. We are very much ahead of our counterparts in the Western world.

As IBC is an American based organization, they usually take about 1-2 years to implement new standards which we would have done in a shorter amount of time (e.g. update of standards). IBC relies very much on their representatives in the various areas to provide feedback before updating the standards, and with no real decision makers on the ground in Area 6; it is not surprising that the IBC will find it hard to keep up with the standards.

How do competitions encourage improvement in betta breeding?

Competitions have a direct impact on what the commercial breeders will produce, due to the variety of classes available.

This in turn drives demand for Bettas suitable for the various classes.

However, competitions can be a double-edged sword, as it may cause the demise of certain colours and forms of Bettas.

For instance, many breeders were breeding melanos in the past as this colour can be entered under the Black class and had high chances of winning. However, after introducing IBC standards, regular melanos are now considered to be a fish with a severe colour fault. In tandem with the change from IBC, breeders are discontinuing the breeding of the melano colour strain. Therefore organizations will need to balance between development, as well as conservation of colors.

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Halfmoon Double Tail The length for the caudal find should be ideally about the same as the body length, excluding the head, as shown with the black lines. The length of the dorsal and anal fins should ideally be equal, as shown with the black lines, and should also be as long as the body length excluding the head. The dorsal fin should not be too wide; an ideal width would be half of the Betta’s body. Length of the ventrals should also ideally be as long as the anal fin. The overall should be circular, with both dorsal and anal fins’ length as shown in this picture.

Halfmoon The length of the caudal fin should ideally about the same as the body length, excluding the head, as shown with the black lines. The length of the dorsal and anal fins should ideally be equal, as shown with the blue lines, and also should be as long as the body length excluding the head. ength of the ventrals should also ideally be as long as the anal fin. The overall shape be circular, with borh dorsal and anal fins’ length not exceeding the ideal length as shown in this picture.

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Halfmoon Plakat The length of the caudal fin should ideally be half the length of the body, excluding its head; as shown in the white lines comparing to the blue lines. The base of the dorsal fin should extend no longer than half of the body, excluding its head. The anal fin should resemble a trapezium shape, slightly slpped towards the back and length of the last anal fin ray should not be very much longer than half its body length. The end of the anal fin should be pointed. Ventral fins should not be too short or too long; slightly longer than the last anal fin ray is fine.

Crowntail The length of the fin should be ideally about the same length, excluding the head, as shown with the blue arrows. The base of the dorsal fin should ideally be about half of the total body length. The length of the anal fins should ideally be equal as the length of the caudal fin, as shown with the blue arrows, and also should be as long as the body length excluding the head. Length of the ventral fins should also ideally be as long as the anal fin. The overall shape should be circular, with both dorsal and anal fins’ length not exceeding the ideal length as shown in this picture. The ray extension should be about 50% of the caudal length. The rays should split into a “V” shape and the spacing should be even throughout all of the spacing.

On being a betta judge, any advice for hobbyists aspiring to be a judge?

and buying them, filling whatever available space they have with Betta tanks. However, most people tend to burn out from water changes and they will find themselves leaving the hobby Hobbyists need not necessary pursue the IBC way to be a earlier than what they expect. Therefore my biggest advice for judge. More importantly, talk to and follow the right and hobbyists is to pace yourself and avoid buying more than what experienced people to learn more about showing Bettas. The you can handle. right people will guide you in every aspect of showing Bettas and with them you will definitely learn more at a faster pace!

To see Lyon in action, do visit the final leg of the Betta Premier On Betta keeping, any advice for current betta hobbyists? League 2013/2014 held at Pasir Ris Community Centre on the 21st and 22nd of November., The show is jointly organized by Bettas require much lesser space as compared to many Iven Betta and Ezekiel Lyon Bettas! other fishes. New people in the hobby tend to keep buying

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P?the L E H DIoYu are loorkiainlsg afonrd/opr by

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We specialize in design, set-up and maintenance of freshwater and brackish planted, invertebrate and fish-only aquariums, terrariums, vivariums, paludariums and ponds of all sizes.

Green Emerald Service Centre 166 Woodlands St 13, #01-529 Singapore 730166 Tel: +65 9398 4238 Email: sales@greenemeraldaquaria.com www.greenemeraldaquaria.com P O I S S O N PA S S I O N

608 Arowana Store 244K Upper Thomson Road Singapore 574369 Tel: +65 9069 5608 Email: sales@greenemeraldaquaria.com www.608arowanastore.com

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Apistogramma –

An introduction to the South American dwarf cichlids A. alpahuayo A closer look at the characteristic black chin stripe © Navin Chandra

One of the diminutive members of the family Cichlidae, the genus Apistogramma is endemic to the Amazon rainforest.

Although classed as a dwarf in size, the sheer number of species (about 240 and growing!) found in genus Apistogramma make it a juggernaut in terms of diversity and distribution. Usually collected in small streams and isolated ponds in the Amazon rainforest, Apistogrammas are found throughout the Brazilian Amazons and as far south as northern Argentina.

Due to its miniature stature, diverse and intense colouration, its ability to adapt readily to aquarium life, Apistogrammas (“Apistos”) have been a mainstay in the ornamental fish trade. Highly sought after by hobbyists and collectors from all over the world, the Apisto have generated a cult following, with various clubs and online forums created purely for the discussion and knowledge sharing of these endearing dwarf cichlids.

The most notable grouping of Apisto lovers are found in Germany, and it was through the efforts of a small group of notable German Apisto enthusiasts, which gave birth to the “A” number series for the Apistos.

Apisto requirements

Apistos are generally hardy fishes, if their preferred water parameters are maintained. Being South American cichlids, they prefer soft, clean and lower pH water, whilst their interesting feeding behaviour in the wild requires fine sand substrate to be present in the aquarium.

In order to make the Apisto feel at home in your aquarium, do ensure there are sufficient hiding places (small clay pots, driftwood etc) for them to retreat to when they feel threatened.

Having met these requirements, your Apistos will feel right at home, and may even spawn if you are lucky to have a bonded pair in the tank!

The Black Chin Apisto

An interesting Apisto found seasonally in the fish trade would be the recently renamed A. alpahuayo or more commonly known as the Black Chin Apisto.

Classed in the A. Cacatuoides group, with the “A” numbers A198 and A199, the Blue variant and Yellow variant respectively, they are usually exported/sold as A. juruensis or A. sp Schwarzkinn (due to the presence of the black chin stripe, A. juruensis have a thinner chin stripe) in the ornamental fish trade.

Being a relatively peaceful dwarf cichlid, compared to its cousins, and a common export, buying a community of five to six choice specimens is very much affordable, which makes the Black Chin a great starter fish to kick start your Apisto obsession!

A. alpahuayo The lone male stands guard outside its pot © Navin Chandra

A. alpahuayo © Navin Chandra

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featured  fish



© Navin Chandra

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Species

A. alpahuayo (previously A. sp Schwarzkinn)

Trade Name

Black Chin Apisto

Identification Traits

Thick black chin stripe

Water Parameters

pH 6 - 7 (wild caught individuals require slightly lower pH to induce spawning behaviour)

Tank Setup

Minimum 1 feet cube tank per pair.

Fine sand substrate and ample hiding places

Diet

Takes commercially prepared pellets and live foods

Tank Mates

Pencil fish or neon tetras are great companion fish

Difficulty Level

Easy to moderate. Requires clean water to maintain good health, hence 20%-30% weekly water changes are required.

A. alpahuayo The Apisto searches the substrate for its next meal © Navin Chandra

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newbie  inf o



Types of Filtration Ⅰ Undergravel filter (“UGF”)

A relatively easy to set up and low cost system.

Hangon Filter (“HOF”)

This is usually the filter of choice for hobbyists keen to have that “Waterfall” sound effect.

Depending on the size of the HOF, there are a few chambers available to place filter media such as ceramic rings or coral chips, separated by filter wool, which act to sieve out the larger waste particles from the tank.

Regular water changes are required, but for low livestock tanks, the filter wool can be cleaned once a month.

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Total costs – under S$50 for a 2 feet tank (including air pump) Handy Tip: Although the new HOF package comes with some filter media, it is always a good idea to buy more ceramic rings and/or coral chips to fill up the empty space Overfiltration is good filtration!

The system consists of an air pump, raised platform, air hose, plastic tubes and porous substrate or soil for setting up.

The porous substrate or soil acts as a medium for beneficial bacteria to thrive, in turn breaking down the toxic ammonia and nitrite and maintaining the Nitrogen cycle in the tank.

For maintenance, regular small water changes are required to remove nitrates from the tank.

Total costs – under S$50 for a 2 feet tank (including air pump) Handy Tip: to extend the useful life of your UGF system, wrap your raised platform with a fine meshed laundry bag.

The laundry bag acts as a secondary filter layer and prevents larger particles from accumulating in the empty space.

Canister Filter

The preferred system for the serious hobbyists who are rearing livestock sensitive to changes in water parameters.

Sponge Filter System

More effort is required for this system to keep water quality pristine, as the sponge does not provide a large surface area to promote beneficial bacteria growth. Hence water changes (about 30%) are required every two days.

This system draws in tank water, pumps it through several compartments of filter media and pushes out the filtered water back to the tank.

Maintenance is a little tricky, as the hobbyist needs to be mindful of closing off several taps in the system before opening the canister for cleaning, water spillage will occur if the taps are not closed.

Total costs – under S$30 for a 2 feet tank (including air pump)

Total costs – under S$70 for a 2 feet tank (depending on brands)

Handy Tip: Have two sponge filters on hand before setting up your tank. Place the first sponge in and a week later, drop in the second. When it is time to clean your first sponge filter, the second acts as a backup for beneficial bacteria to survive.

Handy Tip: During maintenance, place the whole canister into a pail before opening it. More often than not, there will be water spillage and the pail will prevent a wet mess from happening!

The most economical filtration system that has been around for decades!

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new t o o ur  sh o res

Latest Products on Sale

Polyp Lab Biosphere

Aquaillumination Hydra fiftytwo/twentysix Lighting systems

This product was originally introduced as a marine tank media, and it has been a well-kept secret amongst our marine brethren! Stocked in most marine LFS and marketed to reduce nitrates in marine tanks, we spoke with the distributor on its freshwater capabilities and were pleasantly surprised to know it works for freshwater tanks too.

There are aquarium lights and then there is the HYDRA.

Tried and Tested: We were eager to test its effectiveness and were able to get a sufficient sample for a 5 feet freshwater tanked packed with adult Arowanas, Peacock Basses and Stingrays!

A water change was performed and nitrate readings were taken before we “threw” in the sample of pre-prepared Biosphere into the sump. After a week of normal feeding (fish, prawns and squid), we performed a quick test on the nitrate levels and found nitrate levels increased by about 30ppm (the usual test shows an increase of 60ppm a week after water change).

Do follow the instructions found in the packaging on preparing the Biosphere before initial use. Please note the experience may vary.

Visit www.reefdepot.com.sg for your nearest regional retailer.

Keen to try and test it for yourself? We have 2 sets of Biosphere (1.25l each) to be given away to our readers. Simply write to us at editor@poissonpassion.com and let us know why you need Biosphere. Terms and conditions apply.

Packed with the latest functions lighting technology can offer, the Hydra 52/26 lighting system, is your cold sun in a black box! The lighting system uses “cluster” LED bulbs (four clusters for Hydra 52, two clusters for Hydra 26), with each cluster consisting of seven LED bulbs, each emitting a specific light spectrum.

The customisation capabilities via the Director control platform allows the hobbyist to tweak the intensity of each LED bulb, to suit the needs of your planted or reef tank! Cutting edge technology does not come cheap, but we found out how well it serves to light up your aquascape.

Tried and Tested: Our tester was raving about the effectiveness of the Hydra, after using it on a 4 feet Bucephalandra aquascape tank. The plants were flourishing after a two month test period.

The ability to customize the light spectrum entering the tank was a big part of the tank’s success.

Quick Specs: Light Penetration: reaches a depth of 4 feet Spread: covers an area of 2 feet x 2 feet Customisation Capabilities: Ability to mimic sunset/sunrise conditions, and fine tune light intensity. Preset options also available for cloudy/lightning/lunar conditions.

Visit www.aquaillumination.com for your nearest regional retailer.

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sh o res new t o o ur



TWINSTAR

Some time back, the TwinStar NANO/mini series were quietly introduced into Singapore as a “miracle” planted aquarium accessory which inhibits algae growth, and the accessory has established itself as a key item in most serious aquascaping tanks now.

Continuing on their success, the manufacturers of TwinStar introduced two more product lines to our region, one catering to shrimps (TwinStar Shrimp) and the other, fish disease prevention (TwinStar S series). Needless to say, we were intrigued by the TwinStar S series!

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Tried and Tested: We received a unit of the TwinStar S series and quickly put it through its paces.

After a week of running the unit in an established aquarium (2 feet tank) with healthy fishes (post quarantined guppies), we introduced a new batch of non-quarantined feeder fishes (barbs and guppies) into the tank, separating the two populations via a porous partition.

The one week trial was pretty impressive, with no observable incidences of common fish diseases infecting the original quarantined population! Note that the results may vary.

Keen to try out for yourself? Cut out the coupon below and bring it a participating shop for a quick 15% discount! This deal is open only to Singaporean readers.

Participating Shops: Aquarist Chamber Pte Ltd Clementi Florist & Aquarium (aka C328) CRS Haven www.Eppsvcs.com Fishy Business Online Store Pte Ltd www.Freshnmarine.com.sg Hong Yang Aquarium N Pets Accessories Jin Zhong Xiu Trading www.Mizuworld.com Petmart Pte Ltd Polyart Aquarium Sun Pets & Aquariums Pte Ltd Superstar Aquarium and Pets Centre That Aquarium

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B E T TA B A  RR ACK S

DIY your Betta Barracks

By KS Ng and Yolandi McConville Edited by Vincent Koh Photographs courtesy of Yolandi McConville

H

aving been bitten by the Betta splendens (“Bettas”) bug, I can safely say it is difficult to resist buying more of them or worse, start a breeding project for your favourite tail/ colour types.

Any show Betta keeper will gladly tell you the need to house/ jar your show Bettas individually, as the Bettas are known for their nipping, biting and aggressive nature towards each other. Show Bettas, especially males should not be kept in a community tank, lest you wish to “damage” any potential show grade fish.

At the start of your hobby/”addiction”, the number of tanks you own are still manageable, but the number of tanks will somehow multiply and add considerable time to your water changing regime! This happy problem worsens, if you are keen on breeding Bettas, as time and space required to maintain the multiple tanks through regular water changes become very time consuming.

How does the Betta Barracks work?

1. Piping/ Water returning system

An aquarium water pump pushes the water from the sump tank to the individual jars via PVC pipes (a rubber garden hose can be used in place of the PVC pipes), drip/aquarium air hoses and valves.

Regularly spaced holes on the PVC pipe are made either using a soldering iron or drill bit, with the width sufficiently large to accommodate the air hoses. Use silicon sealant to secure the air hose to the PVC pipe. Allow the silicon sealant to “cure” before use; this ensures a water tight seal!

Insert the adjustable valve to the end of the air hose; it enables you to adjust how fast the water “drips” into your Betta jar.

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While a regular and frequent water change (WC) regime is the key to having healthy fish, it is a tedious and time consuming routine; however, there are ways to make your life easier!

An “automated” Water Change (“WC”) system would be the likely solution, giving you more time to appreciate your Bettas.

Automating the WC regime is the way forward, and I would like to share how you can go about setting up your own automated Betta Barracks.

A UV filter is being used to treat the filtered water before being pumped back into the system.

2. Waste water drainage system

Use a submersible aquarium pump capable of pushing water to 1.7 meter height to push water from the sump back up the tanks. This is the heart of the operation and it is the only electrical device used here; though if need be, an UltraViolet filter pump can be added for further water sanitization.

A very neat fish room using the automated water change Betta Barracks

On each of the plastic Betta jars, create a small hole (about 7 to 8 inches from the bottom of the jar) using a soldering iron. Insert an air hose into the soldered hole, this serves as an outlet where water over flows back into the sump. Each air hose is plugged into a PVC drain/return pipe, channeling waste water back to the sump for filtration and treatment.

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The adjustable valves assist in controlling the inflow of treated water back into the tanks.

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3. Sump filtration system

4. Shelving/ Rack System, aka Betta Barracks

This is where the mechanical, biological and chemical filtering processes go to work. Waste water enters the sump, and solid waste gets trapped in the filter wool. Thereafter, biological and chemical processes occur when the water passes through the other filtration media.

Usually part of a wall with newly installed shelving or converted chrome racks of various sizes commonly found in supermarkets/hardware stores, this is where Betta jars are placed in neat rows, allowing maximum viewing pleasure of your precious show Bettas.

It is always a good idea to pack your sump with plenty of bio-rings, ceramic rings and sponges where nitrifying bacteria can reside to consume and convert harmful ammonia to nitrite and from nitrite to less harmful nitrate. Do note that nitrate can only be reduced from the enclosed filtration system through either water changes, and/or having plants in the system.

The ability to enjoy your fishes at a single glance and not having to worry about changing water is truly worth the time and resources to build your own automated Betta Barracks!

Bear in mind the automated water change Betta Barracks is a “Closed Tak System”, as the water is cycled, not e filtered and dripped back e! repeatedly. Diseases are able to spread throughout the system via the “common pool” of water. This poses as the biggest challenge towards fish health.

That being said, many experienced hobbyists have used it with great successes. Most practice a strict quarantine system; quarantining new fish for a minimum of four weeks, plants etc. before putting them in the system.

Further, having good hygiene habits when working on your fish helps; always wash your hands/nets before dipping them into your Betta jars.

Alternatively, an inline UV sterilization filter can be installed at the point where “clean” water leaves the sump. The UV sterilizer “kills” any bacteria found in the water and greatly minimizes disease outbreaks.

The drainage pipes carry waste water to the sump for treatment.

Take care not to place the UV sterilizer in the sump, as the UV light will kill off the beneficial bacteria residing in your sump!

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Reptile heat cords are neatly taped beneath the glass tanks for heating during winter

Optional for temperate countries

Some countries may need to consider heating for their system as well. This can be done by heating the entire room with an air-conditioning unit, or by installing heat tape/ reptile heat cord regulated by thermostats to your system.

With the thermostat installed, you are able to create a “Central Heating System”, which reduces costs, cuts down messy electrical cords from many individual heaters, and be energy efficient; the thermostat regulates the temperature and switches the “Central Heating System” off when the temperature reaches the maximum set limit.

Take care to tape the heating cords on the shelving and sit the Betta jar over the heating cord. As heat travel upwards, the water in the tank gets heated up, creating a convection current which efficiently heats up the water in your Betta jar.

I hope my suggestion will encourage you to build your own automated water change Betta Barracks and give you more time to enjoy your flaring beauties!

A canister filter is used here as the “sump” to treat the waste water.

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direct  o ry



Singapore Live Fish Store NORTH Aquamarin Aquatic pets 28 Jalan Selaseh 63837277 AquaStar 934 Yishun Central 1 #01-51-55 6759 3400 Green Emerald 166 Woodlands Street 13, #01-529 9398 4238 OC Aquarium 883 Woodlands Street 82, #01-500 8511 0125 Pisces Tropica 11 Chencharu Link 6481 6222 Seaview 2 Seletar West Farmway 2 6484 1365 Soon Heng Aquarium 716 Yishun St 71 6755 9769 Sun Pets and Aquarium 26 Seletar West Farmway 1 9851 1121 That Aquarium (aka Y618) 618 Yishun Ring Rd #01-3236 6758 5488

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north-west Ark Aquatics / Glex Aquatics 80 Sungei Tengah 9712 7077 Hausmann Marketing Aquarium 291 Neo Tiew Crescent 6792 1318 Hong Yang Aquarium and Pets Accessories 306 Choa Chu Kang Ave 4 #01-681 6893 5166 Iven Betta 96 Sungei Tengah Road 9069 3235 (Viewing by appointment only) Max Koi 251 Neo Tiew Crescent 6862 6363 Qian Hu Aquarium 71 Jalan Lekar Sungei Tengah 6766 7087 Rainbow Aquarium 78 Sungei Tengah Road 6769 7800 TAS Aquarium 80 Sungei Tengah Road St 39 9236 3738 Zion Koi 50 Lim Chu Kang Lane 9 9187 4588 South East Ocean Aquatic 22 Havelock Road #01-699 6275 9220 Fishy Matters 114 Henderson Road

WuHu Aquarium 71 Seng Poh Road 6227 0935

west Arowana Avenue 328 Clementi Ave 2 #01-196 6777 7603

EAST Aquarist Chamber 787A Upper Serangoon Road 9145 9461

Clementi Florist and Aquarium (aka C328) Blk 328 Clementi Ave 2 #01-210 6777 8468

Aqua Empire 8 Pasir Ris Farmway 2 6583 3280

Poly Art 328 Clementi Avenue 2 #01-194 6775 4773

AquaOne 22 Pasir Ris Farmway 2 Unit B1 9118 7837 CRS Haven 477 Tampines Street 43 #01-158A 6783 3901

central Bishan Aquarium 279 Bishan St 24 #01-54 9062 9755 Blue Paradise 151 Serangoon North Ave 2 #01-194 6287 3988

DJ Aquarium 7 Hougang Ave 3 6383 2726

Hobbyist Aquarium Serangoon Garden Market Stall 47 9002 9602

Fishy Business 46 Sims Place #01-191 9825 9220 Forever Arowana/ Blue Crystal Aquarium 22 Pasir Ris Farmway 2 Unit 6/7 9008 2298 Green Chapter 565 Macpherson Rd #01-00 6775 7376 JK Koi Centre 806 Upper Serangoon Road 9730 9176

Sam Yick Pets and Aquarium 82 Marine Parade Central #01-606/ 610 6344 3087 Superstar Aquarium 481 Tampines Street 44 #01-269 6588 3833 The Aquarium 70 Pasir Ris Farmway 3 9788 7575 Tropical Fish International 1 Pasir Ris Coast Industrial Park 1 6584 0877 Yun Feng 824 Tampines Street 81 #01-12 9663 1546

North-west Dream Fish Inc 221 Neo Tiew Cres 6862 9391

Madpetz Aquatic Supplies 18 Sin Ming Lane #08-32 9450 1581

Panda Arowana 112 Neo Tiew Cres 6791 9029

Nature Aquarium 1 Thomson Road #01-340 6255 6051

Pang Long / Singaro 191 Neo Tiew Road Raffles Arowana 203 Neo Tiew Cres TungHu Aquarium 20 Lim Chu Kang Lane 6F 6794 1198 Singapore Dragonfish Farm 6 Lim Chu Kang Lane 9A 6515 3913

Mainland Tropical Fish Farm 1 Pasir Ris Farmway 1 6287 3883

NKS Aquarium 211 Hougang St 21 #01-299 6288 1820

Arowana Farms

Imperial Arowana Breeding Farm Pte Ltd 3 Lim Chu Kang Lane 6D 6515 4555

Kelson Betta Roxy Square 1 Shopping Centre #02-20 9338 3584

Natural View Aquarium Blk 684 Hougang Ave 8 #01-953 9880 7003

central N3O Tanks 5038 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2 #01-427 6481 2629

JZX Pet Boutique 711 Ang Mo Kio Central 2 #01-3501F 6455 5675

Petmart Pte Ltd 151 Serangoon North Ave 2 #01-79 6289 6471

K and K Aquarium 201D Tampines St 21 #01-1145 6784 4578

N3O Tanks 5038 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2 #01-427 6481 2629

east OTF 63 Pasir Ris Farmway 3 6584 7717 Striker Aquarium 244K Upper Thomson Road 90695608 Striker Aquarium 244K Upper Thomson Road 90695608

Service Providers north Allpets and Aqualife Clinic 219 Jalan Kayu #01-01 6481 3700/ 6753 7349 Elite Aquarium Tank Service 65 Sungei Tengah Road 9446 5883 east SG Bros / Tank Junction 25 Ubi Road 4 #03-02 Weltech Industrial Building 8282 6116

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T H E C A U D A L

Editor’s Rant

Permanent cosmetic enhancements to your Fish pets; a dastardly deed or an improvement?

The practice of artificially enhancing ornamental fish has been around for quite some time now. From tattooing hearts or numbers on to fish bodies, to injecting unnatural colour dyes to make a usually “drab” fish more attractive/colourful to the casual hobbyists.

Editorial Team

Most fish farms defend their “enhancement acts” as boosting the aquarium hobby, by attracting potential hobbyists through making the fish more attractive. Some may even equate the “enhancements” to breeding new hybrids (both are artificial), which helps to boost the fishes available in the ornamental fish trade.

PUBLISHER

Garnet Productions Pte Ltd CHIEF EDITORS

Vincent Koh, Valerie Lim CONTRIBUTORS

Personally, I feel the “artificial enhancements” are purely profit driven and no thought was put in to the health and well-being of the fishes being enhanced!

Zhuang Changzhong, Eugene Koh, Navin Chandra, Roy Pek

As a fish hobbyist, should we continue to condone these procedures?

Or are they good for the hobby?

Poisson Passion is published four times a year by Garnet Productions Private Limited. poissonpassion.com

graphic design

Qu’est-ce Que C’est Design

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Malaysia Live Fish Store KUALA LUMPUR Fish Depot 5-1 Jalan PJU 1/3F, Sunwaymas Commercial Centre 47301 PJ Selangor 60 37886 7012 Irene Aquarium 8-10 Jalan 21/22, Sea Park 46300 Petaling Jaya, Selangor 60 037874 8143 KW Aquatic – KL 31, Jlan TSB 1, Taman Industri Sg Buloh 47000 Sungei Buloh, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia 603 6156 0396 My Aquarium S33, AEON Big Wangsa Maju, Seksyen 5 Wangsa Maju 53300 Kuala Lumpur 60 014 922 2791 R08 That Fish Shop 12 Jalan Pandan Indah 4/4 Pandan Indah 55100, Kuala Lumpur 60 016-9100466 Johor Bahru African Zone Aquarium and Pets 31 Jalan Indah 22/14 Taman Bukit Indah 81200 Johor Bahru 016 771 8511

Coral Aquarium & Tackle Centre 181 Jalan Pahlawan 1, Taman Ungku Tun Aminah 81300 Skudai, Johor Bahru 07 556 1084 Jurrasic Aqua Shop 182 Jalan Pahlawan 2, Taman Ungku Tun Aminah 81300 Skudai, Johor Bahru 016 716 2728 New Oasis Tropical Fish 8, 9, 11 & 12 Jalan Sri Mutiara 1, Taman Mutiara 81800 Ulu Tiram, Johor 07 861 2418 Malacca IKIA AquaPets No.1, Jalan IKS M7, Taman IKS Merdeka, Batu Berendam 75350 Melaka 60 6-337 2082 Jing Kang Aquarium Centre 3099 Pengkalan Batu, Bukit Sebukor 75150 Melaka 60 6232 4104 Penang Chiew Thean Yeang Aquarium 82 Burma Road, Georgetown, Penang 10050 Pulau Pinang 04 226 8797 KW Aquatic Supplies 506 Jalan Ayer Itam 11400 Penang, Malaysia 604 828 2613

35 Austrailia Live Fish Store BRISBANE Fishchick Aquatics Shop 17 Annerley Arcade 478 Ipswich Road Annerley, QLD 4103, Australia 61 7 3848 9585

Crystal Palace Aquarium 50 Ramsay Road Five Dock NSW 2046, Australia 612 9713 7348 Kellyville Pets 106 Windsor Road Beaumont Hill NSW 2155, Australia 612 9629 3282

MELBOURNE Subscape Aquarium 310-312 Victoria Street Richmond Victoria 3121, Australia 613 9427 0050

Aquidisiac 545A Bourke Street Surry Hills NSW 2010, Australia 612 9360 2782

Boronia Aquarium 262A Dorset Road Boronia Victoria 3155, Australia 613 9762 2044

Aquaristic 400 Botany Road Beaconsfield NSW 2015, Australia 612 8399 1314

Coburg Aquarium 232-236 Bell Street Coburg Victoria 3058, Australia 613 9354 5843

Majestic Aquariums 7/120-126 Taren Point Road Taren Point NSW 2229, Australia 612 9525 3474

Exotic Aquatic 300A Neerim Road Carnegie Victoria 3163, Australia 613 9079 3899

Eastwood Aquarium Shop 2, 280 North Road Eastwood NSW 2122, Australia 612 9858 3377

Newlife Aquarium 3 Litgow Street Abbotsford Victoria 3067, Australia 613 9428 8721 SYDNEY Labyrinth Aquarium 16 Ninth Ave Sydney NSW 2194, Australia 612 8068 4853

A P U B L I C AT I O N F O R H O B B Y I S T S