Gdańsk In Your Pocket December 2018 - April 2019

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Nightlife

Shopping

Hotels

Gdańsk No. 57, December 2018 – April 2019

Including

Sopot & Gdynia

Maps

Contents

Gdańsk

Feature The rebirth of Granary island

p.68

Arrival & Transport

12

Nightlife

110

City Basics

18 20

Activities & Leisure

118 126

Basic History

What’s On 22 Sightseeing Essential The Royal Way Gdańsk Wrzeszcz Gdańsk Oliwa Hevelius World War II in Gdańsk

29 30 44 48 50 52

Solidarity

56

Malbork

62

Cafés

64

Restaurants

70

Spa & Wellness

Shopping Shopping Malls

130 136

Directory

138

Hotels

139

Maps & Index Gdańsk Old Town Map Sopot Map Gdynia Map Wrzeszcz Map Oliwa Map Street Index Listings Index Features Index

147 148 148 150 151 152 153 154 gdansk.inyourpocket.com

3

Foreword As we head into 2019, there is a sense of real positivity and optimism in the Tri-city of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia. The cities have enjoyed a period of growth and development and one of the most successful areas in recent years has been the tourism sector. When In Your Pocket began publishing in the city in 2000, there were considerably fewer tourists and even fewer people who had heard of Gdansk and that it was worth visiting. Gradually the tourists started to venture to this part of the world, word got out that it was a fascinating and beautiful place and the investment in the sector began to grow. We are now fortunate to be home to some fascinating places and a vibrant culinary scene.

COVER STORY

There is now a wide choice of places that are ready and eager to serve you, the visitor. Visiting at this time of the year (this issue covers the winter and early spring) means that the competition for your business is fierce and therefore you not only miss the crowded streets of high-season but you get that extra time and attention that maybe aren’t available in summer. Enjoy it - we tend to enjoy these quieter moments of the year ourselves, even if the weather is not as cheerful.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com

Whatever you do, please drop us a line and give us your thoughts. You’ll find us in all the usual places, addresses for which are sprinkled throughout the guide.

Martin is a native of London who has lived in Europe for close to 20 years. These days he calls Sopot home from where he writes the Gdansk In Your Pocket guide, among other things. He is married with three children and enjoys history, sport and exploring new places.

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

The cover shows the beautiful Millers’ Guide House (Dom Cechu Młynarzy). Built in 1894, the building was completely destroyed in WWII but was carefully rebuilt to original plans in 1997. It’s one of the city’s most photographed sights.

PUBLISHER & STAFF

Circulation 15,000 copies published three times a year Sales Consultant: Bartosz Matyjas (+48) 784 966 824 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94 Writer & Editor: Martin Kitson Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Monika Jakubek, Mateusz Gofroń, Agata Janik, Dominika Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. and WIYP Sp. z o.o. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Europe’s largest publisher of locally produced city guides

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inyourpocket.com 6

Gdańsk In Your Pocket

What is the Tri-city?

While this guide is called Gdansk In Your Pocket, it is worth noting that it is a guide to the whole of, what the locals call, Trojmiasto (Tri-city). The Tri-city is made up of three cities (Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia), each proudly independent; each with its own city government and mayor and, most importantly, each with its own history. For the sake of clarity this guide is named after the city which is the oldest, largest and best known internationally. Gdansk is recognised as being over 1,000 years old, a city that has been fought over for centuries by Poles and Germans, Russians and Swedes to name just a few, but which has a rich yet sometimes tragic history.

Sopot developed as a spa resort developing a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous. Gdynia meanwhile is a city which was born with a purpose little under one hundred years ago. Today’s city was conceived to represent Polish independence and to give the country access to the sea. It was built to challenge and resist the power of Gdansk and though the world has changed a lot in the last century it still often sees itself playing the role of yang to Gdansk’s ying.

GDANSK

The growth of the cities in the past 60 years has meant that the spaces and boundaries between them have gradually been filled and whittled away to the point where there is now an almost seamless conurbation running over 40km along the Baltic coast from Gdansk in the south to Gdynia in the north.

SOPOT

For the purpose of brevity we have joined the three cities together in this guide but please note the city name included next to each review as they may literally be in a different city to the one you are in.

GDYNIA

Bay of Gdańsk

Gdansk has been a cosmopolitan city for centuries and has welcomed people of all nationalities and creeds for the vast majority of them. On two occasions it has even been a state in its own right and traditionally people from here would describe themselves as Danzigers (to use the German name) or Gdańszczanin (to use the Polish) which demonstrates the unique nature of this once great port city. Seen as the main tourist attraction in the region, thanks to its long, rich history and beautifully rebuilt old town, Gdansk is also the region’s economic powerhouse.

And don’t forget that this is the city where two of the key moments in 20th century history took place – the first shots of WWII were fired here while 40 years later the first cracks in the Iron Curtain were forced open by the Solidarity movement.

S​ opot is one of the country’s most famous and fashionable towns particularly in the summer months when it often feels that half of the capital has decamped here to see and be seen. The town’s modern history began with the building of a bathhouse and spa by a retired French doctor in Napoleon’s army and its reputation continued to grow through the first few decades of the 20th century when, as part of the German Empire and then as a part of the Free City of Gdansk, it became the summer home and playground for many of Europe’s ruling classes. Kaiser Wilhelm II, for instance, had a summer home here.

Today, Sopot is once again a hip and happening place with its trendy nightlife making it the Tri-city’s party town. Its sandy and sheltered beaches and range of top class hotel and spas, kilometres of cycle routes and forest paths makes it a popular place to come and relax.

​GDYNIA SOPOT OLIWA

WRZESZCZ

GDAŃSK

8

Gdańsk In Your Pocket

OLD TOWN

​ dynia is a city born out of the Treaty of Versailles in G 1919. The League of Nations’ decision to create the Free City of Danzig (Gdansk) left the neighbouring village of Gdynia in the newly reformed Polish state and at the end of the infamous Polish Corridor – the narrow strip of land granted to Poland to give it access to the sea. The quiet fishing village became the focus of huge development – construction began on May 21, 1921 and within 5 years a new city and major port had been created. While it lacks the 1,000 year history of its better known neighbour, Gdynia is a wonderful example of a 20th century city with its construction covering the Art Deco period of the 20s and 30s, the Socialist era of post-war Europe and the modern designs of the post-communist Poland. Sometimes seen as the serious brother of the three Gdynia has some beautiful beaches and walks as well as some good little restaurants, cafes and bars.

The best place to love your work More foreign visitors are discovering the Tri-city of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia is not just a great place to visit but also offers an attractive place to live and work. We asked long-term resident, Jake Jephcott, what brought him to the city and what he tells people about it as part of his role in attracting them to move here permanently.

Tri-city People You’re originally from Warwickshire in the UK. How did you find your way to Poland and how long have you been here?

Originally through my career in music, I was playing internationally for around 5 years before visiting Sopot and Warsaw in 2001. I fell in love with Poland straight away and ending up moving across a year later and eventually settled in Gdansk.

What do you do in Poland?

A lot! I still carry on part time with music but now I am involved in Corporate real estate, having gone through a few different roles, of course English teaching appeared at some point, as did events and marketing and mentoring start-ups. I work for the Olivia Business Centre the largest and most modern business centre in northern Poland. So far we have completed over 150,000 sqm. of a planned 230,000 sqm. of modern offices in a series of buildings including Olivia Gate, Olivia Point, Olivia Tower, Olivia Four, Olivia Six, Prime A and the centerpiece 36-storey Olivia Star. We have over 200 companies so far including Allianz, Amazon, Bayer, Energa, Epam Systems, PwC, Sii and ThyssenKrupp, as well as Polish companies from the sector of small and medium enterprises and startups.

What do you think of the city as a place to live and work and how do you see the future?

I have seen Gdansk go from strength to strength over the last 16 years, it’s been a huge development, especially within the last 5. As part of my role at Olivia Business Centre, I sell Gdansk as a location for investors to setup operations.

A huge part of that is to explain what makes it so attractive for people and that’s the quality of life. It’s pretty straightforward, you have the beaches and the forests and then behind, the lakes, so all the outdoors activities you could possibly want. Now we have a lot of younger folks coming back from working and living abroad who are entrepreneurial and are opening more entertainment venues plus the huge growth of international tourism, so now the demand is there for more variety, the future looks very bright.

Gdańsk is a great place both for running a business and for living. However, it needs new spaces in which people and companies will creatively develop their potential on a global scale. At present, around 8,500 people work at the Olivia Business Center. We want educated young people from all over Poland to continue their careers in Gdansk.

ABOUT JAKE JEPHCOTT Jake Jephcott is the Director of Business Development at the Olivia Business Centre in the Oliwa district of Gdansk. If you are interested in learning more about Gdansk and Olivia Business Centre as a place for your business, Jake can be reached at OBC, Olivia Star (3rd floor), al. Grunwaldzka 472C, 80-309 Gdańsk, via mail at biuro@oliviacentre.com or on +48 58 739 61 00.

Which places do you like to visit and which places do you like to take your guests, professional and private, when they visit you here?

I live in the Old Town of Gdansk, so that’s the natural choice, I often accompany investors on visits and its essential to show them the whole agglomeration if time allows. Gdansk has some very interesting museums, not least the European Solidarity Centre and the Museum of the Second World War. I’ve been a regular visitor to Prologue and Mon Balzac since they first opened while I am a great fan of the burgers at Original Burger and the Whiskey Sour at Craft Cocktails.

Closer to the office, I’m a big fan of Ryz, which is one of the best restaurants in the region in my opinion. My wife’s family are from Gdynia and so we have family and a lot of friends there, it has a vibe of its own and a good gastro scene has been forming there these last couple of years. A recent favourite is Neon for their Pad Thai. I also visit Sopot from time to time for a change or if there is dancing on the agenda or if there is something special happening. One of my favourite spots is Fidel for their rum. On weekends, we travel to the lakes with friends or I get over to the peninsula in my camper van and go windsurfing or paddle boarding – it’s only the weather that dictates but there are a lot of options.

The development of OBC is one of the most visible signs of how Gdansk has grown and changed in recent years.

And it’s still growing isn’t it? What are the plans for 2019 and beyond?

It is, it’s a good barometer, and as I don’t see many signs of slow down for Gdansk, so shall we continue with our growth. We deliver a building almost every year and then we wait to see what will come next, we have to be mindful of the market whenever we commence a new addition. I would say that we are half way with the project in terms of area but now we are not only delivering offices but a winter garden for all year-round wellbeing for our residents and guests and of course more and more restaurants and entertainment venues, we have a lot planned for 2019 and 2020! Just in 2019 there are plans to open the region’s highest viewing platform at the top of our Olivia Star building and we’re hoping to be able to officially announce a partnership with one of Europe’s top, Michelin star chefs for the planned restaurant and bistro we are creating at the top of Olivia Star. There’s a lot going on and Gdansk continues to grow and flourish with Olivia Business Centre, a key element in delivering that growth and development. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 11

Arrival & Transport

Neptun Taxi (p.15) are the only firm authorised to stand outside of the terminal and can be trusted.

ARRIVING BY PLANE GDANSK LECH WALESA AIRPORT The Tri-city can now boast a very impressive airport, coowned by the three cities, around which you’ll see lots of new industry sprouting. The airport, Port Lotniczy Gdańsk im. Lecha Wałęsy (aka Gdansk Lech Walesa airport), is 16km west of Gdansk centre in the Rębiechowo district. The modern terminal handles both arrivals and departures.

After landing you enter the terminal building from the baggage hall where you’ll find a Gdansk Tourist Organisation information point in front of you, car rental desks and ATM machines. A train service connects the airport with the three cities of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia although a change at Gdansk-Wrzeszcz may be required.

You can reach the platforms, where you will find ticket machines, by taking the escalator to the left as you leave the baggage hall. Tickets cost 3.80zł to Gdansk and 6.50zł to Sopot and Gdynia. For more information see the PKM section of our Getting Around chapter and check train times at rozklad-pkp.pl/en. Neptun Taxi is the official taxi firm and can be trusted. Look out for their cars with the 19686 logo on the side. Be suspicious if offered a lift by any car not bearing their logo. We quote approximate prices below but these will be more at night and from Saturday at 22:00 until Monday at 06:00. If you want to catch a bus (210 to Gdansk and 122 to Sopot) you will find the bus stops across the road, to the right, as you leave the terminal.

12 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

GETTING TO GDANSK A taxi from the rank in front of the terminal will cost you about 60zł. The train departs from the platform nearest the terminal although not all run to the main station in Gdansk (Gdańsk Główny). You may need to change at Gdansk-Wrzeszcz (note the destination). The journey will take about 30 mins on a direct train and about 45 mins if you need to change.

GETTING TO SOPOT You can take the train to Sopot but you will need to change at Gdansk-Wrzeszcz. From Gdansk-Wrzeszcz you’ll need to change platform and take the yellow and blue local commuter train (SKM) northbound in the direction of Gdynia. Sopot is the sixth stop from Gdansk-Wrzeszcz. The most direct way to reach Sopot is by taking a 19686 Neptun Taxi from outside the terminal building which will cost you around 70zł normally and more at night and on Sundays.

GETTING TO GDYNIA You can also reach Gdynia directly by train without the need to change thanks to a connection via Osowa. You’ll need to take the train from the platform furthest from the terminal building and be careful to board a train which is going to Gdynia Główna as some run out to Kartuzy in the Kashubia countryside. The easiest way to get to Gdynia is via 19686 taxi and it will cost you 120zł to the centre of Gdynia with prices higher at nights and on Sundays.Qul. Słowackiego 200, Gdańsk (Rębiechowo), tel. (+48) 525 67 35 31, www.airport.gdansk.pl.

Arrival & Transport ARRIVING BY TRAIN

STRAŻ MIEJSKA

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION When you arrive at Gdańsk Główny you are a stone’s throw away from Gdańsk Old Town. You’ll find lockers, toilets, money exchange and McDonalds and KFC either in or next to the station.QA‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

GDYNIA GŁÓWNA TRAIN STATION The main railway station, re-built in a mix of Social Realist and pre-war Modernist styles looks tremendous after a well-needed facelift. The city centre is a 10 minute walk away by turning right out of the station and following ul.

10-go Lutego.QO‑2, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Ticket office open 24hrs.

SOPOT TRAIN STATION Sopot now has a modern train station building incorporating restaurants and cafes. The local service uses Platform 1 while Platform no. 2 is for national and international trains. The nearest tourist information office is close to the station on ul. Dworcowa.QM‑4, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 19 757, www.pkp.pl. Ticket office open 06:10 - 05:35.

ARRIVING BY CAR There are three main routes into the Tri-city: the E28 from the west via Gdynia; the E77 from the south-east which enters the city via Gdańsk and the A1 highway from the south.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDANSK Parking is available once you arrive in Gdańsk but remember that the old town area is permit parking only and you will be fined by the city police for driving into the old town without a pass. Watch out for the signs marking the start of the permit parking zone. You will have to use street parking which is paid for and you will need to buy a ticket at the street machine.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN SOPOT Whether you are arriving from the south (Gdańsk) or the north (Gdynia) you are very likely to make the approach to Sopot via the main Al. Niepodległości road. Sopot city centre is quite small and, can get quite snarled up with traffic during the summer months. There is street parking if you can find it with the area closest to the centre subject to parking tickets.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDYNIA If you are coming from the south you will need to negotiate the other two cities first. This is best done by use of the Obwodnica (ring road) which will get you to the centre of Gdynia in about 20 minutes. Gdynia itself is the best laid out of the 3 cities in terms of cars but even parking here is a challenge these days.

In Polish cities you’ll typically see two types of uniformed law enforcement. One is the police, the other is the local City Guard (Straż Miejska) and you’re more likely to come across one of them during your stay in the city.

The City Guard was created following the fall of Communism and began appearing on the streets of Gdansk in 1991. Their role is to focus on local law enforcement and although they do not have the full powers of arrest as the police it is their role to maintain public order in the city; manage traffic in the restricted zones of the main town including dealing with parking and traffic violations and above all to assist citizens in the city.

During the high season officers from the region who are able to speak foreign languages are re-deployed to the city and to the nearby beaches. These officers are easy to identify as they wear badges showing which languages they speak.

While the Tri-city is in general a safe city, petty crime does exist and travellers are warned to show common sense with their personal belongings such as carrying your wallet or passport in a secure pocket and not in a jacket left casually lying around. Those travelling by car are asked to beware of the restricted parking zones in the centre of Gdansk and to pay and display a parking ticket where necessary.

The most common reason foreign visitors fall foul of the law is for disturbing the peace by imbibing too heavily or for making too much noise particularly late at night.

The other well-known ways tourists fall foul of the City Guard is for jaywalking. You’ll undoubtedly be surprised to see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing – take heed, they know that being caught crossing on a red signal or at a point where there is no marked crossing can result in an on-the-spot fine of around 100zl. Don’t think you are exempt by being a visitor; In fact your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).

The City Guard have asked us to point out that they sincerely hope everyone who visits the city enjoys themselves and returns home safely. If you do find yourself in need of advice, directions or assistance they are happy to help and will contact the police on your behalf if it is something beyond their jurisdiction. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 13

Arrival & Transport ARRIVING BY BUS

BY CAR

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY BUS STATION Most national and international buses arrive at Gdańsk bus station (Dworzec PKS), up on the hill just behind the train station (Dworzec PKP). Give the main building, one of the decreasing number of remnants from the People’s Republic, a quick glance then head downstairs to the bus station hall. From there head down the escalator to the underground passage and follow the signs Centrum or Dworzec PKP. Follow the passage until you see the EMPiK bookshop in front of you. Turn right and go up the steps to ul. Podwale Grodzkie and the old town lies about a 5 minute walk from there. Note diversions are signposted as the tunnel is renovated. QA‑2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www.pks.gdansk.pl. Ticket office open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the office is open 06:30 - 18:30.

Poland remains one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. While the issue of poor roads is being addressed the sheer size of the network means this is still a problem particularly when travelling outside of and not between major cities. The biggest problem though is dangerous drivers resulting in the common sight of mangled wreckages of cars around the country. Yes, the crosses you see beside roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes. While we do not advise against driving in Poland, where new roads and driver education programmes are making driving here less fraught, we do wish to make a number of points clear to the foreign driver.

Firstly, when driving outside of built-up areas you will often find yourself sharing a single lane road with all kinds of vehicles going from high-performance saloons to smoking rust buckets. Throw in the huge fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly find yourself in a situation where traffic is blocked behind said lorries/banger. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front.

Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing down on your vehicle.

For those brave enough to venture out the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drink driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your licence and passport at all times when driving and make sure you have the car’s documentation with you.

The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. It is compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times.

ARRIVING BY FERRY Ferries sail to the Tri-city from two ports in Sweden.

Polferries sail to Gdansk from Nynashamm while Stena Line sail to Gdynia from Karlskrona.

GDAŃSK - WESTERPLATTE FERRY PORT Polferries from Nynashamn, 60km south of Stockholm, arrive at Gdansk’s Westerplatte (after years of docking on the opposite side of the waterway at Gdańsk’s Nowy Port).

The ferry terminal is about 11km north of the centre. Bus N°s 106 and 138 run from Westerplatte to the Gdańsk Główny railway station. Alternatively, a taxi ride into the centre of Gdańsk costs about 30zł. If you have a car then you should follow signs to centrum, a journey that will take you about 15-30 minutes depending on the time of day.

Qul. Sucharskiego 70, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 230 22 22, www.polferries.pl. Open only before ferry sailings.

STENA LINE FERRY PORT Stena Line ferries from Karlskrona, 500km south of Stockholm, arrive at the Gdynia ferry terminal. From Gdynia ferry terminal, take buses N° 150 or F to Gdynia Główna, the main train station in Gdynia (from where there are commuter trains to Gdańsk). A bus ticket costs 3,20zł (4,20zł for the faster line 4), and a taxi to the centre should come to around 20zł. If arriving by car you should follow the signs for Centrum which will bring you to the centre of Gdynia in about 10 minutes.Qul. Kwiatkowskiego 60 (Obłuże), tel. (+48) 58 660 92 00, www.stenaline.co.uk/ routes/gdynia-karlskrona. Opening hours subject to sailing times. Please check the website.

GUARDED PARKINGQB‑4, ul. Św. Ducha (near Wybrzeże Theatre), Gdańsk. Open 07:30 - 22:00.

GUARDED PARKINGQB‑3, ul. Karmelicka 1, Gdańsk.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 14 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

GUARDED PARKINGQO‑2, ul. Jana z Kolna 28, Gdynia.

GUARDED PARKINGQM‑4, ul. Chopina 8, Sopot.

Open 24hrs.

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL AVIS Also at Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9 (Scandic Hotel).

Qul. Słowackiego 210 (Airport), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 348 12 89, www.avis.pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.

TAXI RECOMMENDED BY

EUROPCARQul. Słowackiego 210 (Airport), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 665 30 16 85, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:30.

HERTZ Also at ul. Heweliusza 22. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun.QB‑2, ul. Słowackiego 210A (Airport), tel. (+48) 58 349 48 08, www.hertz.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

DEAR CUSTOMERS WE OFFER THE LOWEST COST TRAVEL TO GDAŃSK, SOPOT AND GDYNIA.

TAXIS Although most taxis are now trustworthy with honest meters, there are still certain drivers who will quite happily take advantage of your ignorance and overcharge for journeys. To guard against this ensure that you use a taxi which is clearly marked. The firms listed below are all reliable with Neptun being the only firm allowed to sit outside of the airport terminal building. Look out for 19686 on the sides of their cabs. Taxis are slightly cheaper if called in advance. If calling one of the abbreviated numbers such as 19686 please be aware that you may need to prefix it with 58 if calling from your mobile.

WE ALSO OFFER TRIPS TO MALBORK, FROMBORK STUTTHOF AND AROUND KASHUBIA WE HAVE ENGLISH AND GERMAN SPEAKING DRIVERS

+48 58

+48 585 111 555

PLEASE PREFIX NUMBER WITH 58 IF CALLING FROM YOUR MOBILE.

MYTAXI A very popular taxi app which originated in Germany but is now available internationally, including the Tri-city. It works well in English, the taxis are all in good condition and come decked out in Mytaxi livery.Qwww.mytaxi.com.

NEPTUN TAXI (GDAŃSK) The only sanctioned firm at the airport with some Englishspeaking operators. Mini-vans are also available and if you are planning a journey outside of the city special rates are available for places such as Stutthof, Malbork and Frombork. You can pay by credit card and American Express.Qtel. (+48) 58 511 15 55, www.neptuntaxi.pl.

TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets.

Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your English-speaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+48) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp.

UBER The international taxi hailing app is in Poland and if you have it loaded from your home country it should work here too.Qwww.uber.com.

PKM

The Pomorska Kolej Metropolitalna (Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway) is worth knowing about if you want to get to the airport on public transport or venture down into Kashubia. The line was only completed in 2015 and as well as opening up towns like Kartuzy as commuter towns it also connects the three cities with the airport.

Trains run regularly between the airport’s own station and Gdansk Glowny although a change may be required at Gdansk Wrzeszcz. Passengers travelling to and from Sopot may also have to change at Gdansk Wrzeszcz. There is a direct link with Gdynia but note it leaves from the opposite platform. Tickets can be purchased from ticket offices, one of the frustratingly few ticket machines on the platform or from the conductor and it is possible to buy a single ticket for the journey. You can find the timetable at rozklad-pkp. pl/enQtel. (+48) 58 721 21 70, www.rozklad-pkp.pl.

Single ticket to/from Gdansk 3.80zł. Single ticket to/ from Sopot or Gdynia 6.50zł. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 15

Arrival & Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT Travelling between the three cities of Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot is a cinch, and best done using the SKM kolejka (commuter train). These yellow and blue trains run more or less every 10-15 minutes between 05:00-19:00 through the Tri-city and less frequently outside of these hours with trains also running occasionally between 00:00 and 04:00.

Tickets can be bought from modern ticket machines which can be found on most platforms and have instructions in English and a couple of other languages. Alternatively you can buy tickets in main stations where you see the sign for Kasa Biletowa or as a last resort from the conductor at the front of the train. If you buy tickets from the Kasa Biletowa make sure that you stamp them with the time in the bright yellow boxes on or close to the platform to validate them.

Ticket prices are dependent on the number of stops you are travelling but a journey from Gdańsk to Gdynia will cost 6.20zł and take about 35 minutes (Sopot will cost 4.20zł and take about 20 minutes). Bikes travel for free and should be carried in a specially marked carriage usually at one end of the train.

Children under 4 travel for free although you also have to buy a 0zł ticket (we kid you not) and you are likely to be requested to provide proof of the child‘s age so basically keep passports on you at all times. ISIC cards will get you a student discount but only if you’re a Polish student, while Euro 26 cards are not valid. You will have to pay a fine if caught travelling without a validated ticket by one of the plain clothes inspectors.

SELF-DRIVE

BLINKEE A company offering self-drive motor scooters which you ‘unlock’ by using their app and which you can pick-up and drop-off wherever you like. Qtel. (+48) 22 290 25 25, www.blinkee.city. 0.59zł per minute, 0.09zł per minute when stopped. Up to a max of 69zł per day.

TRAFICAR Want a car but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code and you’re in. After checking the vehicle over and are happy, off you go. The price is calculated by the length of time and distance travelled e.g a 30 minute journey from Gdansk to Sopot (about 15km) will cost you 27zl.

Qwww.traficar.pl. 0.50zł per minute (this drops to 0.10zł/min. when you leave the car) + 0.80zł/ km.

16 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

TROLLEYBUSES, TRAMS AND LOCAL BUSES (ZKM/ZTM) can also zip you around the relevant cities.

Tickets are issued by Gdańsk and Gdynia. Gdańsk tickets allow you to travel in Gdańsk (and Sopot) and Gdynia tickets allow you to travel in Gdynia (and Sopot). If buying a ticket in Sopot you will need to buy a ticket for the direction you are heading i.e. Gdańsk or Gdynia.

TICKET PRICES Single - 3.20zł, 60 minute ticket - 3.80zł, Single ticket for use on a ‘fast’ line - 4.20zł, 60 minute ticket for ‘fast’ lines 4.80zł, 24-hour ticket - 13zł Tickets can be bought from kiosks or an increasing number of ticket machines which have English and German language options.

If you‘re planning on staying longer then there is the Metropolitan ticket which gives you travel in the cities for 24 hours - the first type covers SKM local trains and then buses, trolleybuses and trams in EITHER Gdansk or Gdynia and costs 20zł (10zł reduced) or a second version which is all travel in all 3 cities at 23/11.50zł. These are available from SKM and ZTM points not the machines.

A recommended way to avoid having to decide on which ticket and then having to negotiate how to get it with the woman in the kiosk is to pick up a Gdańsk – Sopot – Gdynia Plus tourist card. As well as the discounts and free entry to many of the sights that the card brings, you will also be entitled to free travel on the whole Tri-city transport network.

Pick it up at the tourist information points around the city.

NATIONAL TRAINS AND BUSES If you are looking to travel out of the city you will need to use the national PKP (trains) or PKS (bus) services. For trains you find arrival (Przyjazdy) and departure (Odjazdy) times marked on a board in the main station building with the timetables displayed on A1 size cards (departures on a yellow card and arrivals on a white card). Main line train services run from all three stations in the Tri-city as well as Gdansk-Oliwa and Gdansk-Wrzeszcz. Regional and national bus services (such as services to Frombork) run from Gdansk Bus Station which you will find perched on the hill overlooking the train station.The bus station can be reached via the tunnel entered via the stairs outside the main train station and KFC. GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY BUS STATION QA‑2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www.pks.gdansk.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 16:00. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the office is open 06:30 - 18:30.

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION Tickets for international routes can now be purchased from all ticket desks.QA‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

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City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely (moving clockwise) the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania (103km), Belarus (416km), Ukraine (529km), Slovakia (539km), Czech Republic (790km) and Germany (467km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of December 14, 2018 based on €1 = 4.30 zł

LONGEST RIVER The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Gdańsk sits on the Motława river which reaches the Baltic via the Martwa Wisła.

HIGHEST POINT The highest peak in the country is Rysy (2,499m above sea level) which can be found in the Tatry mountains in the south of the country.

POPULATION (2017) Poland - 37,858,000 Warsaw - 1,764,615 Kraków - 766,739 ​Łódź - 690,422 ​Wrocław - 637,683

P​ oznań - 541,563 ​Gdańsk - 464,829 ​Katowice - 296,262 Gdynia - 246,306 Sopot - 37,700

LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.

Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.80 zł 1.89 zł 25.99 zł 2.99 zł 9.00 zł 2.70 zł 16.00 zł 5.28 zł 3.20 zł

€ 2.51 € 0.44 € 6.04 € 0.70 € 2.09 € 0.63 € 3.72 € 1.23 € 0.74

distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season.

Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory section. If you’ve run out of money, however, then silly you. No embassy will bail you out, and your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the Western Union logo.

For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.

ELECTRICITY

MONEY

Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at Saturn in Galeria Baltycka or one of the big electrical outlets situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave.

Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you.

As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins.

One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.

Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. Prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public payphone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the call operator.

English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in 18 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

City Basics Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while most museums costs around 5-10zł.

RELIGION For over one thousand years has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.

WATER Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the quality of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the water. We therefore recommend that you use bottled water which is widely available and inexpensive. The best known brands are Żywiec, Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Nałęczowianka. In restaurants you may be surprised to find a glass of water is not compulsory, and ordering some often results in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet your whistle. Beer is often a better bet since it’s cheaper and arrives in larger quantities. If you’re set on having water it’s best to learn the difference between gazowana (carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water).

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS Poland has a series of public holidays spread throughout the year. These for the most part will fall on a precise date meaning you could find yourself here in the middle of an otherwise busy week to find the city bolted shut.

While more restaurants and bars have appreciated the opportunities of staying open when the rest of the country is taking a free day, do not expect very much open on important religious holidays such as All Saints’ Day (November 1) or Easter Sunday.

December 25, 2018 First Day of Christmas December 26, 2018 Second Day of Christmas January 1, 2019 New Year’s Day January 6, 2019 Three Kings Day April 21, 2019 Easter Sunday April 22, 2019 Easter Monday

LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Tri-city and may even win you friends and admirers.

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.

This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri)

Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is...

Mam na imię...

I’m from England.

Jestem z Anglii Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku?

I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku.

I don’t understand.

Nie rozumiem.

Two beers, please.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Cheers!

Na zdrowie!

Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety?

You are beautiful.

Jesteś piękna.

I love you.

Kocham cię.

Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Call me!

Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyelskoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

gdansk.inyourpocket.com 19

Basic History Now a bustling conurbation known locally as Trojmiasto (Tri-city), each of the individual members has its own specific history. While colonisation in the Gdańsk area dates back to the 7th century when it was a small group of fishing hamlets, Gdynia’s history was changed dramatically as a result of the Treaty of Versailles less than one hundred years ago.

10th Century Adalbert, The Bishop of Prague, christens the inhabitants of what is recorded as ‘gyddanzyc’ by his biographer, Johannes Canaparius, with the year 997 commonly accepted as the year that Gdańsk was founded.

A stone in Park Akademicki marks the first mention of the city

13th Century Gdańsk welcomes vessels from England, Sweden and the Walloon Lands. The Teutonic Knights penetrate Polish regions from the west in 1226. Gdynia is first mentioned under the name Gdina as a fishing village in 1253. The bishop’s document which mentions it says that it belonged to Oksywie, the oldest settlement in the area dating from the first half of the 8th century. Today Oksywie is a part of Gdynia.

Although human settlement in what is now Sopot can be traced back over 2,500 years and a fort is known to have existed between the 7th and 11th centuries, it isn’t until the 13th century that the first recorded mention of Sopot can be found.

14th Century The Teutonic Knights make a treacherous assault on Gdańsk in 1308. The Knights also crown Malbork, 60km south, the capital of their Teutonic state.

In 1361 Gdańsk joins the Hanseatic League, a mercantile organisation, and its sea port prospers.

15th Century Polish-Lithuanian forces defeat the Teutonic Knights at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410, thereby stopping German expansion eastward. As a result of the Second Peace of Torun in 1466, Sopot becomes part of the Polish state.

16th Century Gdańsk enjoys a golden era, prospering into a rich seaport and important centre of trade and culture. Besides Germans, Gdańsk’s ethnic make-up is predominantly Polish, Dutch, Russian and Jewish, as well as a large number of Scotsmen.

20 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

18th Century Poland becomes a playground for Tsar Peter the Great, and in 1734 Gdańsk is besieged by the Russian army. The siege sees the village of Gdynia burned to the ground and Sopot seriously damaged. In 1772 Austria, Prussia and Russia impose the first partition of Poland and the whole area becomes part of Prussia. Gdańsk, now Danzig, loses its trade routes and falls into decline.

A Prussian-Russian agreement on the second partition of Poland is concluded in 1793. In 1795 Austria, Prussia and Russia impose a third partition of Poland, ending Polish independence for more than a century and wiping the country from the map completely.

19th Century Napoleon’s advance eastwards sees Gdańsk established as a free city, with French troops stationed there.

After Napoleon’s defeat and the Congress of Vienna in 1815, Poland is partitioned anew: Danzig (Gdańsk), Zoppot (Sopot) and Gdingen (Gdynia) are given back to Prussia. In 1819 Carl Christoph Wegner makes the first attempt to turn Zoppot into a seaside resort by building a bath-house and changing rooms but the venture fails. At this time there are 23 houses in Zoppot and a population of 350. In 1823 Jean Georges Haffner, a doctor in Napoleon’s army, starts the building of a seaside resort by building the Zoppot Therapeutic House, wooden baths and the beginnings of the pier. With the opening of a Danzig – Köslin (Koszalin) train line in 1870, which is then extended to Berlin, Zoppot becomes more accessible to holidaymakers. The town quickly grows into an elegant resort and records visitor numbers of nearly 12,500 people by 1900. In 1871 the area is officially incorporated into the German Empire. In 1877 the Zoppot council purchase the bathing houses from Haffner’s heirs and build a second bathing house and extend the pier to 85 metres.

20th Century The Kaiser, Wilhelm II, grants Zoppot city rights on the 8th of October 1901, while neighbouring Gdingen develops as a small seaside resort centred around what is today ul. Świętojańska, Pl. Kaszubski, ul Portowa and ul. Starowiejska.

In the days before WWI, Zoppot’s population has increased to 17,400 people and visitor numbers have reached 20,000 annually. On 11th November 1918 with Imperial Germany defeated, the partition collapses and Poland regains independence giving birth to what is regarded as the Second Polish Republic. Danzig is caught in a tug of war between Germany and Poland who turn to the League of Nations to decide on control. With the majority of the city’s inhabitants considered to be of German origin, Germany ruined and the west concerned Poland might fall to the Bolsheviks an independent Free City of Danzig is created. Formally established on November 15, 1920 the city incorporates Danzig, Zoppot (but not Gdingen) as well as a large part of the surrounding area. With Zoppot incorporated into the Free City of Danzig its northern border becomes the border between the Free City and the newly reborn Polish state. The same Treaty of Versailles changes Gdynia forever though. Poland is awarded access to the sea via a narrow strip of land which is to become infamously known as the ‘Polish corridor’. Gdingen, now renamed Gdynia finds itself sat at the top of this corridor.

Basic History 1920s The Polish Parliament passes a bill about the building of a major port facility at Gdynia on September 23 1922. The village expands rapidly as workers from all over Poland are brought in to help with the construction.

The first part of the port is opened by the Polish president Stanisław Wojciechowski on April 29 1923 while August 13 of that year sees the first ship, the French ship Kentucky, enter the port. Gdynia is granted city rights on February 10 1926 and at this point has 12,000 residents. The pier in Sopot is extended to its current length of 512 metres in 1928 and becomes the longest wooden pier in Europe.

1930s The Tri-city area prospers but the rise of Adolf Hitler soon sees the government of the Free City of Danzig come under the control of the Nazis. Tensions rise both within the Free City and over the border in neighbouring Poland.

In 1939, WWII starts with Nazi Germany’s September 1 attack on Poland’s military posts on Westerplatte as Hitler invades to re-incorporate Danzig to the German Reich.

1940s In June 1941, Hitler reneges on the MolotovRibbentrop agreement, which has seen Poland partitioned between Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union since September 1939, and invades eastern Poland. The Nazis make Poland their primary killing ground. Six million Poles, including three million Jews, are killed. Although most of Free City Danzig’s pre-war Jewish population managed to escape in time to avoid the Holocaust, much of the city’s Polish intelligentsia is rounded up and murdered in the nearby Stutthoff death camp. By the outbreak of war Gdynia has rapidly grown to the 6th largest city in Poland with a population of over 120,000 people. September 1 –19 sees a heroic defence of the city but eventual defeat sees Nazi Germany occupy Gdynia, incorporate it to the German Reich, rename it Gotenhafen and expel the local population.

On March 23rd 1945 the Red Army enters Zoppot and the German population is driven out, in some cases literally into the sea. Around 10% of the city is destroyed with the most serious damage in the baths/casino area. Gdynia is liberated on March 28 by Poles fighting alongside the Red Army. On March 30, 1945, the Soviets finally seize Danzig, now a smouldering mass of rubble.

From 1945 onwards Poland is Sovietised. Control of the area is given to Poland and the cities are renamed with their Polish names. Most Germans are exiled westward, replaced by refugees from east Poland. In 1947 the Communists consolidate political monopoly after rigged elections.The 1950s and 1960s mark a time of major urban rebuilding in Gdansk following the large-scale wartime destruction of the city.

1950s In 1953 Gdynia is connected to Gdańsk via the SKM light railway system, while in 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created with Poland a member. In 1961 the first Sopot International Song Festival is held, a festival which goes onto become a huge televised event in the Soviet bloc countries.

1970s The events of 1970 in Gdańsk and Gdynia are the first to rock the system. In December shipyard workers strike to protest poor living standards. The army intervene on December 17 and open fire on the protestors, resulting in clashes in which 44 are estimated to have died. Events on this day will have profound effects on workers for many years to come. This is also the year that West German chancellor Willy Brandt formally renounces German territorial claims to Danzig/Gdansk. Opposition to the government grows throughout the 1970s although the country is lifted by the 1978 selection of Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtyła as Pope.

1980s A general strike is called in August 1980 by the fledgling Solidarność (Solidarity) trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa. After an 18 day sit-in protest, the government gives in and agrees to the strikers 21 demands. These include the creation of the first free trade unions in the Communist Bloc and marks the first peaceful resolution of grievances. The peace is shattered however by the introduction of Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Solidarność is outlawed by the government and its leadership imprisoned. Other union activists are driven underground. In protest, more than 20,000 Gdańsk citizens take sanctuary in St. Mary’s Church. In 1983 Martial Law is lifted and Lech Wałęsa is awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.

The late 1980s see a period of gradual liberalisation due in part to Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev’s perestroika in the Soviet Union. Renewed strikes in 1988 and a failing economy convince Polish leader General Wojciech Jaruzelski to initiate talks with Solidarność. In 1989 Round Table talks produce a formula for power sharing between the Communists and Solidarność. Partly-free elections result in sweeping Solidarność victories and the communist regime crumbles.

1990s Following Solidarność’s victory in 1989 the new Finance Minister, Leszek Balcerowicz, launches an ambitious shock-therapy economic reform programme and Lech Wałęsa becomes Poland’s first democratically-elected, post-communist President. In 1995 former communist, Aleksander Kwaśniewski, defeats Wałęsa in presidential elections. The following year the Gdańsk shipyards are declared bankrupt. In 1999 Poland joins NATO. 2000 onwards In May 1, 2004 Poland enters the European Union, while on April 2, 2005, the widely admired and respected Pope John Paul II passes away. 2007 sees Civic Platform (PO) defeat Law & Justice (PiS) at the polls which results in local boy Donald Tusk becoming Prime Minister.

April 10, 2010 sees 96 high-ranking Poles tragically killed in the air disaster at Smolensk in Russia. Among the dead are President Lech Kaczyński and his wife, along with a number of well-known Gdanskians, including Solidarity’s Anna Walentynowicz, Senator Maciej Płażyński and MP Arkadiusz Rybicki. In December 2014, Donald Tusk becomes President of the European Council. His party are defeated in the following October’s general election and PiS are returned to power for the first time in 8 years. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 21

What’s on

Exhibition Baltic Mini Textile, p.26

EVENTS BY DATE 01.12 - 02.02 » CHRISTMAS LIGHTS IN OLIWA PARK

Oliwa Park is one of the nicest, most peaceful and relaxing places in the whole Tri-city and a walk around the gardens is thoroughly recommended as a way to get away from it all. During the winter the gardens host a rather attractive display of Christmas illuminations which make the park rather magical at night. If you are in the area do take a look.QJ‑5, Oliwa Park, ul. Opacka 12, Gdańsk.

01.12 - 23.12 » CHRISTMAS MARKET

‘Tis the season for Christmas markets (not that anyone’s complaining) and to get everyone in a festive mood, the Coal Market (Targ Węglowy) will turn into a quaint Christmas village offering decorations and treats galore, woollen scarves and socks, handmade jewellery, children’s toys, mulled wine, hot cider and steaming portions of Polish food. There will also be a carousel and a slope for sledging for kids. Note the market stays open for an hour longer on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

QB‑4, Targ Węglowy, Targ Węglowy, Admission free, www.bozonarodzeniowy.gda.pl.

31.12 22:00 » NEW YEAR’S EVE

The New Year’s Eve party in Gdansk kicks off at 22:00.

The celebrations will feature fireworks at midnight and the backdrop of the Prison Tower and Armoury buildings which border the cobbled Coal Market will make for a 22 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

fantastic place to celebrate the coming of 2018 with the residents of Gdansk.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy, Targ Węglowy, Admission free.

31.12 21:00 » NEW YEAR’S EVE IN TRI-CITY: “UNDER THE CLOUD”

Perhaps less is more—with the exception of New Year’s Eve, of course. Trójmiasto, being the ambitious place it is (because who else rolls three cities into one?) aims to bring you everything you need to ring in the New Year: galas, dinners, cinema, theatre, and, of course, fireworks—all in one place. One welcomed feature this year is also an expanded Family Zone, which will be filled with more wholesome fair for parents who want to party, but have to make sure their kids don’t notice. This year’s main stage will be featuring artists like Magda Grabowska-Wacławek, Tomasz Organek, and to start the new year after midnight, Willam Malcolm and Vacos.QP‑2, Skwer Kościuszki, Al. Jana Pawła II, Admission free.

03.01 19:00 » CHRISTMAS CAROLS

Kasia Cerekwicka , Kuba Badach , Kasia Moś and Mietek Szcześniak will be part of a special Christmas Carols concert this holiday season. The performers will be accompanied by soloists, choirs, and instrumental ensembles to help bring the cheer. The repertoire will include songs from all over the world both traditional and modern remakes of classical Christmas carols. QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul.

Słowackiego 23, Tickets 99-129zł available at eventim. pl, www.goodtaste.pl.

What’s on 13.01 » GREAT ORCHESTRA OF CHRISTMAS

It’s that time of year again - the day when literally every single person you encounter on the street will be sporting a red heart sticker (and those who don’t will be endlessly harassed by unnaturally cheerful people with collection boxes). What are they for? They’re proof that you donated to the Christmas Charity to purchase medical equipment for children and seniors in need. A great cause, surely; the day will be wrapped up with a concert and fireworks.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy, Targ Węglowy, www.en.wosp.org.pl.

16.01 19:00, 17.01 19:00, 18.01 20:00, 19.01 20:00, 20.01 19:00 » NEW MUSIC DAYS

Unconventional ways of using the electric guitar, analogue samplings of cassette tapes, interpretations of music from the Middle Ages, or remakings of Kraftwerk tracks by bands specialising in contemporary music—these are the kinds of things you can expect to see and hear at the New Music Days. The aim of this year’s festival is to show the broad spectrum of the experimental scene, one which seeks new forms of music by creating compositions with what could be considered combinations of incompatible styles. QE‑1, Klub Żak, Al. Grunwaldzka 195/197, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 344 05 73, Tickets 20-55zł, www.klubzak.com.pl.

18.01 - 19.01 » BIPOLAR INTERNATIONAL PERFORMERS MEETING

Although the name suggests something to do with extreme changes of emotions, this is an event that brings together dance artists with a special focus this year on Dada dance. The subject material will focus on the notions of movement, choreography, impulse dance, visual poetry and the synergy of these with audio art and experimental music. QN‑3, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, www.pgs.pl.

26.01 19:00 » ANDREA BOCELLI

If you haven’t heard of Andrea Bocelli, it’s about time you get out from under your proverbial musical rock and experience him perform in all his live glory. His show is set to include some of the most known operatic arias as well as the repertoire from his Cinema album, which is a collection of Bocelli’s music that was featured in now-cult films like West Side Story. In terms of vocals, Bocelli is a talented powerhouse who needs no translation—no matter the language of his performance, his voice is deemed to transcend all verbal communication and hit you straight in the feels.QErgo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast 1, Gdańsk, Tickets 189-699zł.

Legendary Polish Musical Metro Directed by Janusz Józefowicz, music by Janusz Stokłosa

16.02 20:00 » NOSOWSKA NA TŁUSTO I BASTA

Kasia Nosowska is the leader of the rock band Hey. A big deal in these parts, they have won lots of Fryderyks, the Polish Brit or Grammy if you like, including Best Female Singer, Best Songwriter and Best Alternative Album. The forty-something singer has also been awarded the Golden Cross of Merit for her contributions to music and culture. The concert will include new material from her upcoming album this fall. QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul. Słowackiego 23, Tickets 79149zł available at eventim.pl, www.goodtaste.pl.

ERGO ARENA GDAŃSK/SOPOT, 10 March 2019 18:00 o’clock gdansk.inyourpocket.com 23

What’s on 20.02 20:00 » BRODKA MTV UNPLUGGED

The best Gdańsk

has to offer in one great app

MTV Unplugged has been known to host some of the most iconic musical performances of recent decades. This phenomenon of disconnecting electric enhancements from the musicians’ instruments has allowed for the acoustic value of the music and the words of the songs to be the showcase of the performance. The events have moved on from just a television show to full-blown concerts around the world to the delight of many fans.

Monika Brodka will be the artist in the spotlight with her recent worldwide success of the album “Clashes”.

Her performance will include a 12 member band with musicians playing instruments as unique as a harmonium and a saw.QB‑5, The Gdańsk Shakespeare Theatre, ul.

W. Bogusławskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 01 01, Tickets 99-129zł available at eventim.pl, www. goodtaste.pl.

10.03 18:00 » METRO

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

24 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

The most popular and most-performed Polish musical of the 20th century, Metro premiered in 1991, and was the first privately-funded theatre performance in postwar Poland. The musical made waves for its modern set design and extensive (though now-dated) use of lasers.

Since premiering, Metro has been performed over 2,000 times in Poland and abroad, including on Broadway in English translation (to mixed reviews). The story revolves around a group of young people in Warsaw who are just beginning their artistic careers; each has their own dreams and backstory, which lead them to an audition at a Warsaw theatre. When the audition fails, the aspiring performers organise their own musical underground in a subway station, the runaway success of which forces them to choose between financial success and the pursuit of their dreams.QErgo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast 1, Gdansk, Tickets 69-229zł available at eventim.pl.

15.03 19:00 » HIROMI SOLO

From the age of six, Hiromi Uehara has been working on her craft as a musician. Starting with the piano at the Yamaha School of Music as a child, in 1999 she moved to the United States to study at the Berklee School of Music in Boston. During her studies, she signed and released her album “Another Mind” which went on to win many awards including the Jazz Album of the Year Award. Since her debut, the artist has been described as “one of the brightest, new lights in the jazz piano landscape”QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul. Słowackiego 23, Tickets 109-189zł available at eventim.pl.

22.03 16:00 & 20:00, 23.03 12:00, 16:00 & 20:00, 24.03 14:00 & 18:00 » THE ILLUSIONISTS LIVE

Magic brings out the childlike wonder in all of us. Even if we know it’s a trick, we still can’t figure out how they did it. Illusionists are the masters of bending reality in front of our eyes. Seven acts will take place over a 2 hour plus live show including Andrew Basso, Luis De Matos, Kevin James, Sos & Victoria, Yu Ho-Jin, James

What’s on More, and ENZO. The show will include mind stumping card tricks, near-death escapes, sawing of people in half, and the usual sexy assistants. The Illusionists have embarked on their European tour straight from the street of show business, Broadway. QErgo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast 1, Gdansk, Tickets from 199zł, www. theillusionistslive.com.

25.03 20:00 » KRZYSZTOF ZALEWSKI

The vocalist, musician, and composer is known for his stage presence leaving many audiences hoping for more.

Krzysztof Zalewski had his breakthrough with the release of his album in 2016 titled “Gold” which had humble beginnings in the clubs of Poland and progressing to some of the largest concert halls in the country. During this current tour you will be able to hear old favourites along with new material from his upcoming album. QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul. Słowackiego 23, Tickets 79-99zł available at eventim.pl, www.goodtaste.pl.

29.03 12:00-18:00, 30.03 10:00-18:00, 31.03 10:00-17:00 » BOOK FAIR

With the main aim to promote reading and literature published in Poland, the Gdańsk Book Fair is an opportunity to find works provided by Polish publishing houses, listen and participate in meetings, debates, and presentations, as well as meet and talk with authors.

The fair will also include exhibitions and workshops promoting the aesthetics and design of books. There is, of course, the ability to purchase various books ranging from poetry, science, art, and as always childrens’ books.

QD‑3, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 62 62, Tickets 0-5zł, www.gdanskietargiksiazki.pl.

03.04 - 17.04 » RESTAURANT WEEK

Calling all foodies (and their kids): for a week this June, you’ll have the chance to sample special family-friendly threecourse meals from top Gdańsk restaurants for the price of 49 PLN each - close to a bargain, given the usual prices. The event takes place in many cities across Poland and this is the old capital’s time to shine. The meals are made for the event and are priced attractively. You can review the list of restaurants and reserve your table by visiting the festivals website in the link below. Qwww.restaurantweek.pl.

11.04 20:00 » YASMIN LEVY

Israeli beauty Yasmin Levy—one of the biggest stars of contemporary world music—returns yet again to Poland.

Born in Jerusalem, this phenomenal singer-songwriter is of Sephardic descent and sings in the obscure JudeoSpanish language known as Ladino, performing music in the tradition of Spanish Jewry, incorporating Andalusian flamenco influences and Eastern instruments. She has appeared at many international festivals, including WOMAD in Singapore, the Barcelona Forum, the BBC New Year’s concert in London, as well as the world-famous Carnegie Hall. QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul. Słowackiego 23, Tickets 119zł available at eventim.pl. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 25

What’s on 26.04 17:00, 27.04 17:00, 27.04 20:00, 28.04 19:00 » SIESTA FESTIVAL

Take it easy, take a siesta: this year’s edition of the relaxing springtime festival will feature Mayra Andrade, Ana Moura, and Lucibela.QD‑3, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul.

Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 62 62, Tickets 100170zł available at ticketmaster.pl, www.siestafestival.pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 27.01.2019 » STEFAN STANKIEWICZ. PAINTING. RETROSPECTIVE

Sometimes art is better experienced when you don’t have to decipher the secret messages hiding behind a painting or sculpture. This writer is thankful for that. Stefan Stankiewicz has given some of us a break and just allowed viewers to enjoy paintings of the vivid and colourful charms of the world. Over 150 paintings will be showcased in the exhibition including flowers, plants, landscapes, seascapes, and the city of Gdansk. Also included are various portraits and feminine shapes from the colourist Stankiewicz. The artist’s work has been described as full of sensuality, expression, spontaneity, contemplation, and intuition. QJ‑4, Museum of Modern Art, ul. Cystersów 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 124, Admission 10/6zł. Fri free, www.mng.gda.pl.

07.12 - 17.02 » MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Pl. Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 11, Admission to the permanent exhibition 20/15zł, family ticket 55zł, www.ecs.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.

UNTIL 03.02.2019 » SPOTS OF FREEDOM

Spots of Freedom is a story of Poland through the works of various clothes makers, dressmakers, tailors, and needleworkers. In connection with the 100th anniversary of Poland regaining its independence examples of textiles, dresses, clothing, and trinkets will be on display. The exhibition will not only cover the time around 1918 but will also feature items taken from the fight for Poland’s second independence during the times of Solidarity. QB‑1, European Solidarity Centre, Pl. Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 11, Admission to the permanent exhibition 20/15zł, family ticket 55zł, www.ecs.gda.pl.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.

06.12 - 06.04 » ZIELONO MI

The tri-city designer Dorota Gulbierz will have her collection of ceramic jewellery decorated with silver, gold, and platinum on display. The designer belongs to an esteemed group with her use of intense colours woven with patterns and inspiration. An added bonus is you can purchase items on display if you fancy taking it home with you. QManufaktura Bursztynu, ul. Targ Węglowy 26, tel. (+48) 695 99 00 84, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Closed Mon, Sun.

Before the time of Facebook, SMS, email, and various sharing platforms, humans used to send communications on a piece of paper. Sometimes it was an update about life, sometimes they included photos, while other times it was to wish a special someone a happy birthday or holiday. This special exhibit will take us back to the time when everyone was sending us photos of our families in horrible sweaters to wish you a Merry Christmas. The postcards will cover the periods of the 1960s and 70s in Poland. The material will have examples both religious and secular, beautiful and ugly, published by the state publishing houses, small-time shops, artists, and photographers of the time. QP‑2, City of Gdynia Museum, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 586 62 09 10, Admision 10/5zł. Family ticket 15zł.

Kids under 7 free., www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

The interactive exhibit “Ships: Our Passion” presents many products and services provided by the biggest shipyard in Poland - Remontowa Holding S.A. New visual technology and computer simulators take you to the shipyard where you can go inside the ships or inspect an oil tanker. Future engineers can test their skills, and visitors will realize just how hard it is to assemble ships with the help of the crane simulator. The interactive map shows that the products of the shipyard reach each corner of the worldQD‑4, Maritime Culture Centre, ul. Tokarska 21-25 (entrance from ul. Długie Pobrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, Admission free. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From January check their website. From February open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon., www. statkinaszapasja.pl.

UNTIL 31.03.2019 » GRAPHICS UNUSED

08.03 - 09.06 » BALTIC MINI TEXTILE

During the time of the People’ Polish Republic, Zygmunt Januszewski worked with independent Polish publishing houses as graphic artist and illustrator. A large part of their material was content that ridiculed the communist system and apparatus that was in place in the country. One event during his life saw him intentionally run over by a car belonging to the militia. This shows you how his work ruffled a few feathers in the country. His illustrations have appeared in various Polish, German, French, and British press titles as well as have won numerous awards and honours. This is a chance to see work by the internationally acclaimed artist. QB‑1, European Solidarity Centre, 26 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

UNTIL 31.12.2019 » SHIPS: OUR PASSION

The Baltic Mini Textile is a competition of professionals, art graduates, and members of the Association of Polish Artists and Designers, to determine the best examples of contemporary miniature textiles. The winning works will be selected and put on display at both the Gdynia City Museum and the Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź.

In addition, selected works donated to the Gdynia City Museum will also be exhibited in the Middle Franconia Gallery in Germany. QP‑2, City of Gdynia Museum, ul.

Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 586 62 09 10, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

What’s on UNTIL 27.01.2019 » MEMORY. JEWISH COMMUNITY OF SOPOT

Traces of Jewish history in Sopot is sparse. The one place left standing is a small cemetery. The gate to the cemetery serves as the only remaining monument to the past inhabitants. The other notable marker is a plaque marking the spot of the of the old synagogue which was burned down in 1939. In connection with the 80th anniversary of the Sopot synagogue being destroyed, a special exhibition will detail the fate of the Jewish community in Sopot. It will include various artefacts that have been loaned from other museums in the country since almost none exist from Sopot itself. QN‑4, Sopot Museum, ul. Poniatowskiego 8, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 22 66, Admission 5/3zł. Sun free., www.muzeumsopotu.pl. Closed Mon.

07.12 - 20.01 » ERASMUS WOJCIECH FELCIN “ISLAND OF HAPPINESS”, “ANATOMY OF THE APOCALYPSE”

We live in a world that on one side we want to be carefree and happy and on the other, we seem to be headed for self-destruction. This exhibition will touch on both subjects through the visual representations of photography and graphics by Felcin. One part will show our need for bright colours and kitsch that we seek during our leisure time while at the other will display our groom fate if we ignore the damage we are doing to the world we live in.QN‑3, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, Admission 10/7zł, www.pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

07.12 - 10.02 » IRENE KALICKA AND TOMASZ PARTYKA. TRICKS AND SLAUGHTERS

Combining the works of Irena Kalicka and Tomasz Partyka, the artists have created various photos and figures depicting a world that bypasses the norms we experience.

The bizarre figures take human forms with abstract facial features. The bodies are manipulated and stuffed with wires, deprived of heads, hands, or massacred in all kinds of ways. The pieces are truly something that belongs in a Tim Burton film or in your restless dreams.QN‑3, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, Admission 10/7zł, www.pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon.

UNTIL 10.02.2019 » RAFAL MILACH / REFUSAL

In 1971 Soviet television broadcast a science program that showed techniques to effectively manipulate human consciousness. The participants were subjected to experiments that showed viewers how suggestion and conformity can affect the perception of reality. It brought to light similar techniques used by the authoritative government to manipulate citizens’ awareness. The exhibition Refusal will visually portray these manipulation techniques through the photography of Rafał Milach.

QN‑3, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, Admission 10/7zł., www.pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

S TAT E A R T G A L L E R Y Plac Zdrojowy 2 I Sopot 81-720 Tuesday to Sunday 11–19 18.01 I 19.01.

Seventh International Bipolar Performers Meeting -------------------------------------------

15.02. I 17.03

3 Triennale of Pomeranian Art -------------------------------------------

23.03. I 05.05.

Jan Berdyszak. Retrospective (1934 - 2014) -------------------------------------------

23.03 I 23.06.

Collection of Starmach Gallery -------------------------------------------

UNTIL 13.01.2019 » THE FLOWERS OF EVIL

In the title of Charles Baudelaire’s volume of poetry, The Flowers of Evil is highly evocative. Flowers, commonly seen as beautiful, delicate and vulnerable are contrasted with broadly conceived images of evil. The artist processes data downloaded from the Internet; thanks to a special interface they “set in motion” an installation of artificial flowers. Making use of this classic title, the artist moreover followed the thinking of Jean Baudrillard, author of The Intelligence of Evil, or the Lucidity Pact, and of the idea of simulacra. In Andrzej Wasilewski’s installation, the data are grouped within categories: Population, Mortality, Human interference with the natural environment, Energy production and consumption, Food, Economy, and Crime.

The artists taking part in the show make statements about the risks they can identify. Inspired by the title, they refer to violence, war, environmental degradation, enslavement by political regimes, homophobia, xenophobia, and racism.

QN‑3, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, Admission 10/7zł, www.pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

Want to know What’s On today?

Check out our calendar at iyp.me/whatsongdansk gdansk.inyourpocket.com 27

Long Street (ul. Długa) - Gdańsk’s main pedestrian thoroughfare - done up in holiday style. © Aleksander

Tri-city Sightseeing If it’s history you want then you’ve come to the right place because the Tri-city has sacks of it. So charge up the battery pack, clear the memory and let us point you and your camera in the right direction.

Sightseeing If you’re pressed for time here’s a list of those places you might want to make sure you don’t miss. More details about each, including addresses and opening hours, can be found within these pages.

Starting off in Gdańsk then. In a city full of attractions the most prominent is the Museum of Second World War. It was in this city where the first shots of WWII were fired and war buffs should allow plenty of time to visit the excellent exhibition while also planning time to take the ferry ride (in season) up to the Westerplatte peninsula and to the Nowy Port lighthouse (p.55) where the scars from the first shots of the war can still be seen.

Gdansk wasn’t just the place where the Second World War began. It can be argued that it was here that the effects of the war began to be brought to a close. It was in the shipyards neighbouring the Museum of the Second World War that the first fissures in the Iron Curtain appeared, forced open by Poles during the landmark August strikes of 1980. Following this first peaceful victory over the communist rulers, calls for greater freedoms were only nine years away from bringing down the Berlin Wall. The centre of these protests was Gate #2 of the Gdańsk shipyard (p.60) and this can be found just outside of old town on ul. Doki. While there do not dare miss a visit to the excellent European Solidarity Centre (p.58) which features a fascinating and very well presented tribute to the Solidarity movement which does a very good job of explaining how and why this movement of 10 million Poles came about and what it achieved.

The old town is where you’ll find a number of photo opportunities a fact made all the more remarkable when you consider most of it was a smouldering pile of bricks at the end of WWII. The sensible start point is the Upland Gate (p.30), which marks the start of what was once known as the Royal Way. Following this route you’ll pass by Amber Museum (p.36) and the Torture Chamber and then through the Golden Gate. Stop for a moment under the gate to take at look at the pictures of the city once the fighting stopped in 1945 – it will make you appreciate what you’ll see on the rest of your walk all the more. As you pass through the Golden Gate you come out onto Long Street (ul. Długa). On the left

Europe’s longest wooden pier at Sopot

© Katatonia

Granary Island

© Patryk Kosmider

about half way down is the Main Town Hall which serves as the home of the Gdańsk History Museum (p.37) and a few metres further on is Neptun’s fountain and Artus Court. The Royal Way ends at the impressive Green Gate.

St. Mary’s Street (ulica Mariacka) ranks as the city’s most picturesque street and is dominated by the biggest brick church in the world St. Mary’s (Bazylika Mariacka, p.33).

Climb to the top for panoramic views of the city Nearby the 15th century Crane (Żuraw, p.40) stands on the river’s edge, a hulking reminder of Gdańsk’s merchant past.

Across the river the few now preserved remains of the granaries of Granary Island (Wyspa Spichrzow, p.68) serve as a somber reminder of the havoc wreaked here by WWII, while the Maritime Museum (including the ship Sołdek, p.40) provides an interesting look at the history of Polish seafaring.

In Sopot, make a beeline for Krzywy Domek (the Crooked House, p.41) on the main pedestrian thoroughfare – ul.

Monte Cassino. Probably Sopot’s most photographed landmark, the building was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of a Swedish resident of Sopot. From there carry on to the focal point of Sopot – the 511m pier (p.42).

Originally built by a doctor in Napoleon’s occupying army, the pier is the longest in the Baltic. At one time the gardens surrounding the pier were themselves part of a huge hotel, spa and casino complex. The Sofitel Grand Hotel is one of the few original buildings which survived and has been renovated and modernised.

Gdynia, while younger than its sister cities, does offer a small but interesting selection of sightseeing options. Take a look at the City of Gdynia Museum (p.36) which does a good job of showing how a fishing village was turned into an international port and commercial centre in under a decade because of the decisions made in the Treaty of Versailles. And being a port it also offers a more nautical set of attractions. Make sure to visit the ships docked on the quayside, the three-masted Polish training ship Dar Pomorza (p.36) and WWII battleship Blyskawica (p.36).

And for those with children the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium (p.120) makes for an entertaining couple of hours. Last but not least in Gdynia, check out the excellent Emigration Museum (p.39), which tells the stories of centuries of Polish emigration. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 29

The Royal Way

The iconic Neptune Fountain on Long Market (Długi Targ). | © rpbmedia

When the king of Poland travelled from Warsaw to Gdańsk, he would enter the city through the Brama Wyżynna (Upland Gate), continue through the Złota Brama (Golden Gate), and then head along ulica Długa (Long Street) and Długi Targ (Long Market) to the Zielona Brama (Green Gate).

Although he didn’t make this journey often, it was highly profitable for him to visit Gdańsk due to the enormous tax revenue the city commanded through its trade. In turn, Gdańsk’s predominantly Germanic city dwellers would negotiate with the Polish king for greater rights, gaining substantially more privileges from him than they ever would from the Prussians in the 18th century.

UPLAND GATE This 16th century gate, the main entrance into the Old Town, was the original starting point for the Royal Way. It was here that the Polish king was welcomed and given the keys to the city. The gate was originally surrounded by a 50m moat and was named for its ‘upland’ location above the water level. The metal pulleys used for raising and lowering the drawbridges are still visible beneath the coats of arms of Poland, Prussia and Gdańsk. The gate has undergone major renovation work in recent years and now houses a tourist information point.QB‑4, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie, Gdańsk.

PRISON TOWER & TORTURE CHAMBER Originally built as part of the city’s fortifications in the second half of the 14th century, the complex was rebuilt by Antoni van Obberghen between 1593 and 1604 with the smaller of the two buildings becoming a torture chamber and courthouse while the larger tower became the prison. It was here that executions were carried out until 30 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

the middle of the 19th century. Damaged during WWII, it has been extensively renovated and how houses the Amber and Torture Museums. There’s a viewing platform in the tower open during the summer months.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk, www.museumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the Amber Museum) 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Prison Tower is closed for winter season.

GOLDEN GATE The virtues of Peace, Freedom, Wealth, Fame, Piety, Justice and Concord are depicted in allegorical statues adorning the balustrade of this gate overlooking ul. Długa.

Built between 1642-44, it was destroyed during WWII and not restored until 1997. An inscription on the gate reads, ‘Small states grow by concord, great ones fall by disagreement.’QB‑4, ul. Długa, Gdańsk.

Golden Gate

The Royal Way LONG STREET Picturesque ul. Długa is one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. From the Golden Gate which protects it, the gently-curving street opens into an array of colourful burgher houses, rococo portals, gothic mouldings and original porticoes. The house numbers run in opposite directions on either side, a feature typical of old Gdańsk streets. N° 12 houses a Museum of Burgher Interiors. N° 71 is one of the few structures on the street to survive World War II and still bears original mouldings from the second half of the 15th century. N° 28 is Dom Ferberów (Ferber’s House), dating to 1560, with magnificent sculptures and the three familiar coats of arms. N° 29 has an interesting crew of Roman emperors peering from its baroque façade.

King Władysław IV entertained local dignitaries at Lwi Zamek (The Lion’s Castle) at N° 35; two lions guard its portal. The house neighbouring it dates to 1563 and is a splendid example of the influence of the Dutch renaissance on Gdańsk architecture. The renaissance house at N° 45 belonged to the Schumann family and is sometimes called the House of the Polish Kings (Dom Królów Polskich); figures of Greek gods stud its alcoves.

The eastern end of the street is dominated by the tall, slim tower of the Town Hall.QB‑4.

MAIN TOWN HALL The Town Hall spire, with a golden replica of King Zygmunt August on its pinnacle, dominates ul. Długa’s skyline. Built in the late 14th century as the seat of city authorities, the Town Hall hosted many Polish kings.

It was almost completely destroyed during WWII but rebuilt with extraordinary care. The tower contains a 37-bell clarion which was inaugurated on New Year’s Eve 2000. The interior of the building, home to Gdańsk History Museum today, is lushly decorated with painted ceilings, colourful frescoes and elaborate furniture and carvings. Two solemn lions guard its 18th century portal, from where an elaborate staircase leads to the luxuriant Sala Czerwona, the Red Room. This room was used by the council in summer. Its ornamented ceiling is decorated with 25 paintings surrounding a central piece entitled The Glorification of the Unity of Gdańsk. The town hall is another place that offers you views from the top of the tower while the weather is good.QC‑5, ul. Długa 46/47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk. pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free.

LONG MARKET & NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN The focal point of Długi Targ, the Long Market, is the Neptune Fountain, a bronze statue of the sea god erected in 1549 and converted to a fountain in 1633 and restored in 2011/12. During WWII, this symbol of Gdańsk was dismantled and hidden with many of the city’s other treasures. It was only returned to its rightful place in 1954. The square itself is surrounded by colourful and ornate houses which look magnificent

when the sun is beating off their decorated walls. Długi Targ used to be home to Gdańsk’s richest, most elite residents and was used for assemblies. Executions took place on the square in front of Artus Court.QC‑5, ul.

Długi Targ, Gdańsk.

ARTUS COURT This impressive mansion, a symbol of the city’s power in the 16th and 17th centuries, served as an exchange and as the seat of St. George and the brotherhoods of rich patricians. Founded as a meeting place for merchants and dignitaries, it was named after King Arthur, of round table fame, and hosted many a noble guest. Following a fire in 1841, it was given a more Gothic form, complete with ostentatious sculptures and paintings illustrating man’s merits and vices. Inside, the centrepiece of the main hall is a 10.64-metre renaissance tiled stove dating to 1546, made of more than 500 individual tiles and the tallest of its kind in Europe. Its adornments portray leaders, coats of arms and allegorical figures. Just to the left is a small pewter surface that claims to be the oldest table in Poland while two stone lions protect the entrance to the cellars of the court.

The court still plays an important part in public life today and is the scene of important receptions and meetings.

QC‑5, Długi Targ 43/44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free.

The Green Gate

GREEN GATE This magnificent four-arched gatehouse on the waterfront was built as a palace for Polish monarchs. No Polish king ever stayed in the building, but Lech Wałęsa had his office here before moving to the European Solidarity Centre.

The gate leads to the Green Bridge, which spans the Motława River and which used to be raised to stop the riff-raff from getting into the Old Town. Following a careful renovation the gate now bears an uncanny resemblance to Amsterdam’s central train station, and hosts an art gallery and the Gdansk Photo Gallery.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102, www.mng.gda. pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 5/3zł, plus additional 2/1zł for the Gdansk Photo Gallery. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 31

Sightseeing BIG WHEEL

GDANSK PANORAMIC WHEEL A London Eye Ferris wheel which has become one of the city’s major seasonal attractions since 2014. Operated under the name ‘Amber Sky’ this big wheel offers 36, 8-person cabins (including one VIP cabin with a glass floor which costs 250zł) which travels up to a height of 50m offering wonderful views of the Old Town. The wheel seems to have become a permanent fixture and having previously packed up outside of the summer season it is now to be found allyear round at a new spot on Granary Island behind the Philharmonia building.QD‑3, Ołowianka 1, Gdansk, tel. (+48) 666 37 89 80. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 28zł. 18zł for those under 1.40m.

TOURIST INFORMATION GDAŃSK TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Also at Gdansk Airport (Arrivals Hall) and in the Madison shopping mall with summer points at Gdansk Zoo and Gdansk Sobieszewo Island.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 28/29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 55, www.visitgdansk. com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Also at: Gdańsk Airport (Arrivals Hall) open 24hrs.

POMERANIAN TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QB‑4, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 2A, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 732 70 41, www.pomorskie.travel. Open 09:00 18:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERQO‑2, ul. 10 Lutego 24, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 37 66, www. gdynia.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. TOURIST INFORMATION SOPOT Info point inside the Dom Zdrojowy (Health House) which as well as all your tourist needs also has a cafe overlooking the pier allowing to relax in a bit of peace and quiet right in the heart of the town. Also next to the train station at ul. Dworcowa 4 (Open 09:00 - 17:00).

QN‑3, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 790 28 08 84, www.sts.sopot.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. 32 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

CEMETERIES CEMETERY OF THE LOST CEMETERIES Designed by Jacek Krenz and Hanna Klementowska and featuring sculptures by Zygfryd Korpalski and Witold Głuchowski, this small memorial between the Church of Corpus Christi and the Bus Station was officially opened on May 24, 2002. Dedicated to the citizens of Gdańsk who were once buried in one of the city’s 27 graveyards either destroyed during WWII or bulldozed on purpose after the end of the war, the new Cemetery of Lost Cemeteries was designed to resemble a temple. The main memorial is surrounded by broken gravestones representing all faiths, and includes a poem by the Jewish poet Masha Kaleko (1912-1975), whose poetry was burnt on the direct orders of Hitler in May 1933.QA‑2, ul. 3 Maja, Gdańsk.

CHURCHES CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH Once part of a settlement called Grodzisko, a complex of fortifications outside of Gdańsk’s main city walls, the Bożego Ciała (Corpus Christi) Church is one of the oldest remaining houses of worship in the city. Dating from the early part of the 14th century, the church was originally part of a larger complex that grew around it including a small chapel, old people’s home, a leprosy hospital and a cemetery that was closed by the communists in 1956. The church is not a great looker, but is interesting on two levels. It was here that the city’s poignant Cemetery of the Lost Cemeteries was built in 2002, and, along with St. Nicholas’ Church, it was the only other church to escape any damage at all during WWII.QA‑2, ul. 3 Maja 19A, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 52 38. Open by prior arrangement. No visiting during mass please.

GARRISON CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE Designed by Louis von Tiedemann of Potsdam between 1899 and 1901 under the patronage of Empress Augusta Victoria (who chipped in 1,000 marks of her own money towards its construction), the Neo-Gothic Garrison Church of St. George stands on the site of Sopot’s former market square. Originally Evangelist, the church has been Roman Catholic since Sopot’s re-incorporation into Poland in 1945. The minimalist whitewashed interior comprises three unremarkable stone and brick naves, some charming modern stained glass and a wooden relief of the Virgin Mary by Zofia Kamilska-Trzcińska, which used to be on board the SS Batory as a token of luck during the war. A NeoGothic chapel complete with ceramic roof stands in the square outside. Once a well, the chapel now shelters a rather forlorn-looking statue of St. Adalbert.QM‑3, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 05 48, www.jerzy.sopot.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.

Sightseeing ST. MARY’S BASILICA Gdansk’s most visible place of worship, St. Mary’s Basilica is believed to be the largest brick church in the world. The interior vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31 chapels. It can hold up to 25,000 people, which was useful during the period of martial law between 1981 and 1983 when members of the Solidarity movement sought refuge here. The church can be accessed through seven gates with intriguing names like the Purse Maker’s Door. Interestingly, the sculptor who carved the crucifix of Christ nailed his errant son-in-law to a cross so as to add realism to his work. St. Mary’s was seriously damaged during WWII and the original frescoes have since been whitewashed, which far from leaving an impression of stark emptiness bring out the best in the relics throughout and creating a marvellous feeling. Of note is the enormous astronomical clock dating from 1464.

Its complex dials show the time and date, phases of the moon, the position of the moon and sun in relation to the zodiac signs, and the calendar of saints. Adam and Eve ring the bell on the hour. According to legend, the clock’s creator had his eyes gouged out so he’d never make a clock to better than this one. You’ll hear this story about every astronomical clock in Europe, and it makes you wonder why mediaeval clock-makers ever accepted commissions. The 78 metre tower, which involves climbing 405 steps, houses a viewing platform with cracking views of old Gdansk and has benefited from a 3.3 million euro renovation.QC‑4, ul. Podkramarska 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82, www.bazylikamariacka. pl. Open 08:30 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:30.

Viewing platform open 10:00 - 16:00 Sat, Sun; From April open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission to viewing tower 10/5zł.

ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH The first Catholic church in the city and the only one to escape WWII without a scratch. Founded by the Dominican Order in 1348-90, this is a remarkable church with a dark marbled interior, ancient exposed walls and a sombre atmosphere. Of note is the multi-level high altar and Baroque-panelled choir stalls which make it a popular choice for weddings. Note that the church is currently closed following the discovery of cracks in some of the churches vaults. A major project is now underway to discover the cause of the subsidence and to stabilise the building.

Masses have been moved to neighbouring churches and an appeal has been launched to help contribute funds to the building work.QB‑3, ul. Świętojańska 72, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 35 77, www.gdansk.dominikanie.pl.

GDANSK MEASUREMENTS Something which we often see visitors bemused by are the three metal poles hanging on the outside wall of the Stary Ratusz (the old town hall). They’re clearly something to do with length though the Polish only explanation didn’t enlighten us a great deal. We recognised a couple of the terms but we fear we might have got a couple of these wrong even with the help of the internet. Here’s what the Polish explanation means. If someone notices we’ve got a term wrong, we’d be grateful if you’d drop us a line and correct us.

On the bars are lengths of metal corresponding to the nineteenth century measurements Foot (31.4cm), Cubit (66.7cm), and the Prussian Half Rod (188.3cm) which have also been marked with the measurements used before 1816: Foot (28.7cm), Cubit (57.4cm) and Fathom (172.1cm). gdansk.inyourpocket.com 33

Sightseeing TOUR GUIDES

MONUMENTS ANNA WALENTYNOWICZ MONUMENT This monument to the Solidarity activist whose dismissal from the Lenin Shipyards on August 8, 1980 sparked the August strikes was conceived by the Godność (Dignity) organisation, designed by Stanisław Milewski and largely paid for by Solidarity trade union members. It stands in a small square named in Walentynowicz’s honour next to the block of flats where she lived in later life. The inscription on its base is a famous line used during the fight against communism ‘There is no freedom without solidarity’QG‑4, Skwer Anny Walentynowicz.

Małgorzata Andrzejewska can guide you to Gdansk and beyond.

CITY TOUR GDAŃSK A choice of tours through the old town in electric cars seating for 5, 7 and 13 people with audio guides available in English, Polish, Russian, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Norwegian, Swedish and Finnish.QB‑4, ul. Kołodziejska 7/9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 504 45 88 68, www.citytourgdansk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

GANNON GDANSK GUIDE Tours of the Gdansk, ECS and all of the other major sightseeing spots in the region provided by a very friendly and knowledgeable Irishman, who’s been living in Poland for many years.QC‑5, tel. (+48) 600 26 06 78.

GDANSK WITH US Walking tours led by two enthusiastic and qualified locally born tour guides. Both have worked in Scandinavia, hence Norwegian as well as English being a speciality. They’ll show you past and contemporary Gdańsk and can organise other specially tailored tours around Poland.Qtel. (+48) 781 18 71 11, www.gdanskwithus.com. Tour prices on request.

TRIP2GDANSK Get the most out of visits to the European Solidarity Centre and the Museum of the Second World War as well as discovering the stories behind the city’s main historic attractions and some hidden gems with tailor-made tours led by an experienced and qualified tour guide – Małgorzata Andrzejewska.

As well as city tours, Małgorzata will also organise tours of out of town places such as Malbork, Stutthof and Torun and she is also very adept at providing genealogy research and ancestral tours. Contact her for prices and details.Qtel. (+48) 734 46 04 44, www.trip2gdansk.pl.

34 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

DISPLACED GDYNIAN MONUMENT This particularly emotive monument was created to remember those Gdynians deported from the city following the Nazi takeover in 1939. Estimates range from 120,000 to 170,000 people and included an estimated 30,000 who were interred or sent as forced labour elsewhere in the Reich. The homes and property left behind were taken over by Germans resettled in the city as the Germans fortified it as a Naval base and renamed the city Gotenhafen.

When the war ended many of those deportees who had survived the war returned on foot to try to find their loved ones and reclaim their homes.

The statue depicts a mother, her son and daughter with nothing more than a suitcase walking in the direction of the railway station as the daughter reaches out to her dog which she has been forced to leave behind.

It was designed by Paweł Sasin and Adam Dziejowski was unveiled in October 2014.QO‑2, Pl. Gdynian Wysiedlonych, Gdynia.

FATHER JANKOWSKI STATUE A 3.7m tall statue dedicated to Father Henryk Jankowski, the chaplain of Solidarność (Solidarity), stands in a square named after the controversial priest and was unveiled in 2012 two years after his death. Born in 1936 in nearby Starogard Gdański, Father Jankowski came to the fore during the strikes of the 1980s when he was the parish priest of the nearby St. Bridget’s church, which became the parish church of the Solidarność movement. Father Jankowski was a fearless and outspoken critic of the regime, a trait that carried on into post-communist times. He found himself in trouble with the new government for comments he made about the European Union and then with the Roman Catholic authorities who eventually banned him from preaching for a year in 1997 after a series of anti-Semitic comments made from the pulpit. Despite the controversy that surrounded him in his later years Father Jankowski retained many admirers (including local bakers the Pellowski family) who organised a fund to create the statue you see today. The three crosses you see on the priest’s chest represent the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers found on Solidarity Square.QC‑3, ul. Stolarska, Gdańsk.

Sightseeing FOUR QUARTERS FOUNTAIN Long ago you would have found old Gdańsk carved into four quarters, Szeroki, Wysoki, Rybacki and Kogi (Wide, High, Fish and Ship quarter) and today the geographic point where these historic areas met has been handily highlighted by a dazzling installation that makes use of lions, light and water. Featuring four life size lions (ancient symbols and protectors of Gdańsk) guarding each corner, and glass coloured blocks embedded into granite panels transforms during the warmer months when the blocks light up and twenty four jets of water shoot high into the sky. Great fun for the kids on a hot day.QC‑4, ul. Grobla I, Gdańsk.

HAFFNER MONUMENT A monument to the French doctor (1775 - 1830) who came to Sopot while serving in Napoleon’s army. Once the fighting was over, Haffner returned and built a bathing complex, sanatorium and spa as well as the beginnings of Sopot’s signature pier. He is widely regarded as the founder of modern Sopot and he died in Gdansk in 1830.QN‑3, ul.

Powstańców Warszawy, Sopot.

JÓZEF PIŁSUDSKI MONUMENT A statue dedicated to the man who is widely recognised as having been the key figure in Poland regaining her independence after 123 years in 1918 and then preserving it by defeating the Red Army on their advance westward in August 1920 in what came to be known as the ‘Miracle on the Vistula’. Marshall Piłsudski distrusted Polish democracy, which he considered weak and corruptible, in the years following her independence and eventually took power by a coup in 1926. Despite ruling by what even supporters described as authoritarian methods, Piłsudski is still widely respected for his strong leadership in the nine years before his death in 1935 and his body is buried in the crypt of the royal castle of Wawel in Krakow.

This 3.5 metre tall statue located outside of the Gdynia City Hall was designed by Stanisław Szwechowicz and was unveiled on November 10, 2013 after money was collected by the Piłsudski Association and the local government.QO‑3, Al. Piłsudskiego, Gdynia.

MONUMENT TO THE EVACUATED CHILDREN During 1938 and 1939 it is estimated that the lives of some 10,000 Jewish children were saved thanks to the organisers of what would come to be known as ‘Kindertransports’. These evacuations of children from Poland, Czechoslovakia, Germany, Austria and the Free City of Danzig to the United Kingdom saw children carried away from the Nazis by bus, train and ferry to new families in Britain. Four kindertransports managed to leave Gdansk/Danzig in the spring and summer of 1939 carrying a total of 124 children to safety. Sculptor Frank Meisler was one of them, and on May 6, 2009 his memorial to this exodus, entitled ‘The Departure’ was unveiled outside Gdańsk Główny train station.QA‑2, ul.

Podwale Grodzkie, Gdańsk.

FRANK MEISLER Frank Meisler was born in the Free City of Danzig on December 29, 1925. In 1939 he was living with his family in an apartment on the corner of what is today ul. Dluga and ul. Tkacka (then Langgasse and Große Wollwebergasse). Frank and his family were Jewish and the rise of the Nazis meant they found themselves in great danger as the 1930s progressed and war loomed.

Frank escaped the city in late August 1939 on one of the trains that became known as a Kindertransport.

This was the name given to the rescue mission that began nine months prior to the outbreak of World War II. The United Kingdom took in nearly 10,000 Jewish children from Nazi Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia and the Free City of Danzig. The children were placed in British foster homes, hostels, and farms across the country. In total four Kindertransports left the Free City of Danzig between May and August with Frank leaving with fourteen other Jewish children on the final train just before the Germans invaded the city on September 1, 1939.

The children travelled by train via Berlin, the Netherlands and then by ferry to Harwich before reaching their destination – London’s Liverpool Street Station. Days after Frank left Danzig, Frank’s parents were rounded up and sent to the Jewish Ghetto in Warsaw. They were eventually sent to Auschwitz.

Frank was settled with a family in London and later graduated with a degree in architecture from the University of Manchester. In 1960 he moved to Israel and settled in Jaffa, where he made his home and opened a studio in the Artists’ Quarter in the Old City of Jaffa.

In 2006 his sculpture group ‘Children of the Kindertransport’ was unveiled at Liverpool Street Station by Prince Charles. Two other sculpture groups commemorating the departure and journey of the Kindertransport: ‘Trains to Life, Trains to Death’ and ‘Kindertransport – The Departure’ were erected in Berlin and Danzig (now Gdansk) in 2008 and 2009. In 2011, Frank unveiled a public sculpture in the port of Rotterdam, Holland called ‘Channel Crossing to Life’.

The final piece, the fifth Kindertransport sculpture group ‘The Final Parting’ was unveiled in Hamburg, Germany in May 2015.

Frank’s sculptures were often commissioned by Israel’s Prime Ministers, as well as the heads of state of other countries. You can find out more about Frank and his work at www.frank-meisler.com. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 35

Sightseeing BŁYSKAWICA

Built in Cowes on the Isle of Wight by the JS White firm the destroyer Błyskawica (Lightning) and her sister ship, ORP Grom (Thunder) measuring 114 metres in length, powered by turbines rated at 54,000hp, armed to the teeth and boasting a top speed of 39 knots, were to become the fastest destroyers in the world when launched in 1936.

Both boats were spirited to England on the eve of war as part of the Peking Plan. Based back in Cowes the Błyskawica saw action several times, including in the Mediterranean, Normandy and as an Atlantic convoy escort. However, her finest moment was to come in Cowes. Captained by Wojciech Francki, on the night of the 4th May 1942 the town came under attack from up to 160 Luftwaffe bombers. Anticipating an attack Capt.

Francki had ensured the Błyskawica was well-armed, despite a ruling stating the vessel should have been decommissioned while in port. In a further breach of regulations Francki ordered his crew to fight off the waves of bombers, and what followed was a ferocious battle between sea and air. The heroic defence and the smokescreen that was lit were enough to thwart the Luftwaffe, and the captain and crew were hailed as the ‘saviours of Cowes’. Less forthcoming in their recognition were the pedants in the British Admiralty; conscious of condoning a blatant violation of the rules they sent a tight-lipped dispatch commending the good work done by Francki.

At the end of the war the Błyskawica returned to Poland, though without its captain and many of its crew. Francki chose a new life in Australia, away from the suspicions and hostility of the new communist government, and it was a lead followed by many of his ratings. In 2004 the actions of the Błyskawica were formally acknowledged, and a plaque unveiled in the port of Cowes by Francki’s daughter. The ship itself was retired from service in 1969, and has since served as a museum ship held in the sort of regard the Brits reserve for the HMS Victory. It’s the only ship to be awarded Poland’s highest military decoration, the Gold Cross of the Virtuti Militari Order.QP‑2, Skwer Kościuszki 12, Gdynia. www.muzeummw.pl. Open from May 1.

Admission 14/7zł and family ticket 22zł.

36 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

MUSEUMS AMBER MUSEUM Housed in Gdańsk’s mediaeval Fore-gate building (once home to the Prison Tower and Torture Chamber), this multi-story exhibit delves extensively into the history of Baltic amber. The impressive collection of “inclusions” (when bugs or plants are caught inside the amber) is intriguing to look at, and the many amber creations, from inkwells to spoons to a stunning Fender Stratocaster guitar, shows the material’s diversity. A large open room at the top of the building houses an impressive array of modern amber jewellery that appears more artistic than wearable. Many find the separate exhibits on the building’s past as a torture chamber uncomfortable – and considering the piped-in soundtrack of pained cries, we understand why – but they are a must-see, if for no other reason to find out what “thumb screwing” and a “heretic’s fork” are. The lower part of the building also housed the city’s courthouse from where convicted criminals would be sentenced to hang on the square outside. Many of the exhibit rooms throughout the ancient building are small and cramped, and if you happen to visit on the same day as a school group it’s a nightmare, but it’s well worth a visit nonetheless. In the summer months take advantage of the viewing platform in the tower.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 -18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the Prison Tower) 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł.

Tue free.

CITY OF GDYNIA MUSEUM A modern museum which presents a changing series of temporary exhibitions all related to the short but fascinating history of this relatively young city. For more information about what’s on check our ‘What’s On’ section.

QP‑2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 586 62 09 10, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admision 10/5zł. Family ticket 15zł. Kids under 7 free.

U DAR POMORZA This three-masted Polish training ship has visited 383 ports and travelled more than 800,000km in her time at sea. Constructed in 1909 in Hamburg to train cadets for the German navy, she was after World War I given to the French who, in turn, gave her to an Englishman in French service. The ship was subsequently bought by the Pomeranian National Fleet. Since 1972 she has taken part in numerous sailing competitions, winning the Cutty Sark Trophy in 1980. A year later she was bestowed the highest Polish State decoration: the order of Polonia Restituta.QP‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II (Nabrzeże Pomorskie), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 23 71, www. nmm.pl. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 8/5zł.

Sightseeing FREE CITY OF DANZIG HISTORICAL ZONE Found tucked away in the shadow of the Green Gate, what looks like little more than a three minute diversion transpires to be a fascinating insight into the city. From 1920 until 1939 the city was a semi-independent state, better known as the Freie Stadt Danzig (Free City of Danzig).

This exhibition aims to celebrate those times because while the rise of fascism will always cast a pall over the city, it must also be remembered this was far from the nationalist hotbed that is always assumed. The campaign for long term Germanization had been reasonably effective, yet still over 80% of the population regarded themselves as Danzigers first and foremost – not Germans, and not Poles, but the citizens of a unique melting pot in which two nations co-existed. This period is remembered by way of dozens of everyday treasures: on show is everything from bank notes to beer bottles, from tourist guides to cigarette packets. The exhibition features multimedia displays as well as exhibits connected with Danzig trams.QC‑5, ul.

Długi Targ 25/27, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 602 27 80 51, www. strefahistorycznawmg.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł. N GDANSK HISTORY MUSEUM The History of Gdansk museum calls the impressive Main Town Hall or Ratusz Głównego Miasta home, a GothicRenaissance structure originally built in the 14th century and painstakingly repaired following World War II. Access the building by the gate to the left of the main staircase which leads you to the ticket office. The first rooms you come across are the ornate Great Council Hall and Red Hall, the latter of which features an impressively-sized fireplace and lavish ceilings paintings, including The Glorification of the Unity of Gdansk. Subsequent rooms feature vintage 16th and 17th furniture and a sampling of the museum’s 600 silver pieces, which highlight Gdansk’s silversmithing era. The top floor of the museum features a exhibition showcasing what life was like in everyday Gdansk right before the war – visitors get a glimpse into the homes and businesses of residents and see a period in time that was about to come to an abrupt end. From here you can climb to the top of the tower (in summer).QC‑5, ul. Długa 46/47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk. pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free.

TOURIST CARD The Gdansk Tourist Organisation offers a Tourist Card and there are now three packages tailored to specific groups of tourists: families with children, sightseeing buffs and those who want to move around the three cities visiting some of the key sites.

The packages are called: Family Fun, Sightseeing and Transportation.

It is also possible to add a Metropolitan transport ticket to the Family Fun and Sightseeing packages so you have free public transport included in those too.

We recommend that you take the maximum options on this as it is only a few zloty more expensive and it will avoid any confusion later about which form of transport you are allowed to use it on. To find out more about what’s included in each package check their website at http://kartaturysty.visitgdansk.com/pakiety. qbpage or visit one of their offices.

Type of ticket

48-h

72-h

Family Fun Card (Normal)

24-h 40zł

50zł

60zł

Family Fun Card (Reduced)

25zł

35zł

45zł

Sightseeing Card (Normal)

50zł

65zł

80zł

Sightseeing Card (Reduced)

30zł

40zł

50zł

Transportation Card (Normal)

43zł

n/a

66zł

Transportation Card (Reduced)

31.50zł

n/a

43zł

Public transport ticket (Normal)

23zł

n/a

46zł

11.50zł

n/a

23zł

Public transport ticket (Reduced)

You can pick a Tourist Card up from any of the following venues: • Lech Wałęsa Airport, ul. Słowackiego 200 • Gdańsk Tourist Information Centre, (C-5) ul. Długi Targ 28/29 • Information point in the Madison Shopping Centre, (B-2) ul. Rajska 10

THE SOPOT TOURIST CARD

Sopot, being an independent city from Gdansk, with its own government and mayor, offers its own tourist card specific to Sopot. This card is very simple. A visitor pays their ‘Resort Tax’ which is usually included in the price of your accommodation and that entitles you to the Sopot Tourist Card which gets you discount in a number of places in the city, including named restaurants, some spa treatments and also from museums and the pier. To find out more pop in and speak to the people at the Sopot Tourist Association at their point in the Dom Zdrojowy (Health House). gdansk.inyourpocket.com 37

Sightseeing FOREST OPERA

© Fotobankpl, UMS

One of the country’s most famous stages and without question its most wonderfully located is Sopot’s Opera Leśna (Forest Opera), a magical open-air theatre nestled in the middle of a serene hilly forest in the western district of the city.

Originally built back in 1909 the Forest Opera saw its opening night on August 11, 1909 with a performance of ‘The Night Camp in Granada’. The decision to stage Wagner’s opera ‘Siegfried’ in 1922 proved to be a key moment as German critics raved at the quality of the performance and the venue so much that it was decided to organise Wagner festivals here every year and the city gained itself a reputation as a second Bayreuth (Waldoper Zoppot - the Bayreuth of the North) It wasn’t until the early 1960s and the creation of the Sopot Festival that new life was breathed into the venue following the war. The festival, created by Władysław Szpilman - best known as the protagonist in Roman Polanski’s Holocaust epic, The Pianist, came to Sopot in 1964.

It was in the years 1977-80 that probably make for the most fascinating period. With the Soviet Union and its satellites outside of the European Broadcasting Union and therefore unable to take part in the popular Eurovision Song Contest, it was decided to create a rival competition and so the song festival saw itself reinvented as the Intervision Song Contest (Interwizja).

Alongside the competition the biggest draw was the appearance of big names from the west during the interval that drew the crowds to the Forest Opera and to their television sets (the contest was broadcast across the whole of Eastern Europe) and big names of the time such as Demis Roussos and Boney M performed. The post 1989 period saw it become an opportunity for Poles to see stars from the west and acts who would previously have performed in the interval such as Lionel Ritchie, Whitney Houston, Bryan Adams and Ricky Martin took over the show. Today the Forest Opera finds itself once again as a top-class venue for concerts, theatre and opera thanks to a 74 million PLN redevelopment.QM-4, ul. Moniuszki 12, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 84 11, www.operalesna.sopot.pl.

38 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

NATIONAL MUSEUM OLD ART DEPARTMENT Located in a former Franciscan monastery, the National Museum is a work of art itself with vaulted ceilings and a large staircase that houses an impressive collection of equally beautiful objects. The main draw is Hans Memling’s highly detailed triptych The Final Judgment, which was returned to Gdańsk by the Russians in 1956 after a circuitous journey through the hands of Napoleonic troops and Nazis. Paintings showing predestruction Gdańsk and its wealthy residents as well as the work of Dutch artists in another room.QB‑6, ul.

Toruńska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 61 ext. 233, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. Fri free.

NAVAL MUSEUM Set in a modern building, autumn 2018 saw the opening of a new permanent exhibition on the first floor designed to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the re-creation of the Polish Navy. In 1918, Poland found itself once again an independent nation and although its access to the sea was drastically reduced from the period before the partitions, the newly reborn nation was determined to create a navy as quickly as possible. Polish officers and sailors returned home from the navies of the partitioning powers where many had held senior ranks. This exhibition, although not all available with English explanations, has plenty of information, stories and artefacts to make it of interest. The exhibition is entitled ‘Mamy rozkaz Cię utrzymać’, literally meaning ‘We have an order to hold you’ (in relation to the Polish coast and sea) and comes from a popular patriotic song. There’s more to see on the other two floors and in the grounds outside too. Downstairs you’ll find a display of various bombs, torpedoes and artillery as well as a short history about the WWII warship ORP Gryf which was one of the early casualties of the war when it was sunk in Hel harbour in September 1939. Meanwhile, on the upper floor there are some very impressive wooden models of famous ships. The gardens holds a collection of old planes and artillery including 18th century cannons; shells from the Schleswig-Holstein (the ship that kicked off WWII), and a cannon recovered from a German U-boat sunk in Gdynia harbour in 1945. Well-worth an hour or so of your time when the weather isn’t conducive to spending time on the neighbouring beach. QP‑2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl.

Open 09:00 - 16:00, Last entrance 40 min before closing.

Admission 14/7zł and family ticket 22zł.

ROMANESQUE CELLAR The original settlement of Gdansk appears to have been around the area to the north of the current ‘Old Town’ close to the Covered Market Hall (Hala Targowa) and the Dominican church of St. Nicholas. Archaeologists had long suspected that the area would hold some clues as to earlier settlement of the area and were particularly keen to see if they could find evidence of the first Dominican church. Having come up with a blank in previous digs

Sightseeing they finally hit gold in the area between the Covered Market Hall and the current church in 2005 when they discovered the foundations of the original church as well as vaults which were still in remarkably good condition.

After years of work it is now possible to venture down into the vault which it is believed was used by monks at meal times while a fellow brother read passages of the Bible to them. Of particular note is an ossuarium, a vault containing hundreds of bones from graves which had been cleared at some point in the past to permit expansion of the church. Also keep an eye out for the ancient brick in the vault with a cross carved into it. Ask the friendly lady on duty to put the English soundtrack on for you as you take the 20-30 minutes necessary to look at the vault and some of the relics discovered there.

QB‑3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 508 81 65 02, www.archeologia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 8/5zł, kids under 16 1zł, kids under 7 free.

Sun free. Y SOPOT FORT Traces of human settlement in the Sopot area date back to the Stone Age, and ancient graves, spearheads, ceramics, remains of food and even Arabic coins have all been uncovered during excavations. The most important archaeological find however was the unearthing of the remains of a fort, believed to have been used between the 8th and 14th century. Reconstructed in 2000 you’ll find it hidden away in the trees to the rear. The current ‘castle’ is thought to be an exact replica of the one that once stood here and hosts workshops and educational courses for school groups which often involve cooking in the open-air. A modern museum and didactic pavilion features a permanent exhibition entitled ‘The oldest history of Sopot’ (Najstarsze Dzieje Sopotu).QN‑2, ul.

Haffnera 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 66 00, www. archeologia.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/6zł.

Sat free. Y SOPOT MUSEUM The Museum of Sopot can be found in a beachside villa dating from 1903 which was originally built for the prosperous Gdansk-Dutch merchant Ernst Claaszen as a family home. The building itself is an interesting look at the architecture of the city at the turn of the 20th century, a time when it was granted full civic rights. The lower floor shows how the house would have looked when the Claaszen family lived there and includes a number of family possessions including furniture, paintings and even children’s toys. The upper floor plays host to temporary exhibitions which are generally connected to one part or other of the city’s history.

The villa is set in a leafy garden yards from the beach and is a perfect place to relax on a sunny day.QN‑4, ul. Poniatowskiego 8, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 22 66, www.muzeumsopotu.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Sun free.

EMIGRATION MUSEUM

Opened in May, 2015, this a fascinating look at how, why and to where millions of Poles have emigrated over the centuries.

With Poland thought to have the sixth largest diaspora in the world (the group is known as the Polonia and is thought to number over 20 million), the museum does an excellent job of explaining the various situations, political and economic, which have made people consistently leave Poland, to places like the USA, Australia and even Brazil.

The building which is the museum’s home is also particularly noteworthy. Located on the French Quay in Gdynia Port, the beautifully renovated Dworzec Morski (Marine Station) dates from the 1930s and is a wonderful example of the architecture that was in fashion as Gdynia expanded rapidly after WWI. The building became the main gateway to the world for Polish emigrants in the inter-war years.

The exhibition is set on the first floor of the building and despite starting rather disappointingly (we have no idea what the displays in the silver thing outside the exhibition entrance are trying to achieve), it gets much, much better very quickly. You enter the exhibition to the music of the Polish national anthem with its line ‘Poland has not yet perished. As long as we still live’, which wonderfully sums up both the battered history of this country and the spirit which has kept it alive as a nation. The exhibition is larger than it appears at first, so give yourself 2-3 hours to wander through the exhibition which includes some wonderful personal memories and stories. Highly recommended, particularly if you are one of the Polonia which is something you can check as the museum is one of very places which has free access to Ancestry.com records for its visitors to do family searches on.

To get to the museum take bus number 119 (weekdays only), 133 or 147 (check that the destination is Dworzec Morski - Emigration Museum) from the main train station (bus stop is actually on ul. Jana z Kolna) or bus 137 from the Batory Shopping Mall on ul. Armii Krajowej. Alternatively a taxi will cost about 20zl or you can walk there in 20 minutes from the city centre.

QP‑1, ul. Polska 1, Gdynia (Dworzec Morski), tel. (+48) 58 670 41 61, www.polska1.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Tue 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Children under 7 free. Wed free. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 39

Sightseeing NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Gdańsk’s National Maritime Museum is made up of four individual museums, including The Crane and the Sołdek ship, that together create a complete history of the port.

Straddling both banks of the Motława, you can buy one ticket to all parts of the museum (23/13zł), which includes a ferry ride between the Crane and Maritime Cultural Centre on one side and the Sołdek and National Maritime Museum on the other, or visit the parts and pay individually. You will need to book an exact time to visit the interactive exhibition ‘People, Ships, Ports’ which normally begins at the start of each hour.

Tickets for the ferry (runs subject to weather conditions out of season) cost 1.50zł each way and it also offers a handy shortcut for those looking to get to the other side of the river even if you’re not visiting the museum.

MARITIME CULTURE CENTRE A new building in the shadow of Gdańsk’s crane is the modern setting for the Central Maritime Museum’s newest exhibition.

Spread over 4 floors, kids will find the ‘People - Ships - Ports’ interactive displays of interest as they learn about the sea including how devastating tsunamis start while there is also a permanent exhibition entitled ‘Boats of the Peoples of the World (Working Boats)’, which presents scores of small craft from all over the world, including Native American dugout canoes, a fabulous little English coracle and numerous small fishing and trade vessels from the Far East. The third floor currently houses an interesting temporary exhibition telling the stories and displaying the treasures recovered from local shipwrecks and a second call Statki Nasza Pasja (Ships. Our passion). There are plenty of good English descriptions plus the Cała Naprzód on the fourth floor which offers great photo opportunities of the river from its terrace.QD‑4, ul. Tokarska 21-25 (entrance from ul. Długie Pobrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

Admission to the Interactive Exhibition ‘People, Ships, Boats’ 8/5zł. Family ticket (up to 2 adults and 3 children) 20zł. Admission to the ‘Boats of the Peoples of the World Exhibition’ 6/4zł, Wed free for permanent exhibition. U NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM The main part of the museum is located inside three Renaissance granaries and if you’ve only got time to visit one of the three museums this is by far the most comprehensive of the lot. A complete history of Poland’s nautical history is represented on several floors and includes old cannons, huge oil paintings, harpoon guns, a hall dedicated to underwater archaeology, shipbuilders’ hard hats from the Lenin shipyard, a few pieces of modern art and an extensive collection of model ships. Information is available in English.

QD‑4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. From Jan 1, check website for 2019 opening hours. Admission 8/5zł. Wed free for permanent exhibition. U 40 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

SOŁDEK The first steamship built in Polish Gdańsk after 1945 at what was to become the Lenin Shipyards, the Sołdek has been turned into a living museum. Launched in 1948 this old ship was an ore collier before retiring to become a museum ship and just about every inch of it can be accessed from the cramped engine room to the bridge to the pokey little cabins the crews lived in.QD‑4, ul.

Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11 ext.

327, www.nmm.pl. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. From Jan 1, check website for 2019 opening hours. Admission 8/5zł.

THE CRANE (ŻURAW) The Crane is one of the defining symbols of Gdańsk and represents what little is left of the city’s great trading age.

First mentioned in 1367 the original structure burnt down in 1442 before its current design was created in 1442-1444.

As a working crane it was used to transfer cargoes and to put up masts on ships. At one time this was the biggest working crane in the world but it also served a defence function and as one of the gates to the city. It had a lifting capacity of 4 tonnes to a height of 11 metres and this was achieved by two huge wooden wheels at its heart each with a diameter of 6 metres. These wheels were originally powered by men walking inside of them to turn the lifting mechanism. It remained a working crane until the middle of the 19th century and was 80% destroyed in 1945 in the battle for Gdańsk.

After the war it was rebuilt and donated to the Polish Maritime Museum of which it remains a part today. You will be able to view a collection of permanent exhibitions inside including one on port life between the 16th and 18th centuries. In Polish only, displays include models of lighthouses, the old port, life-size recreations of counting houses and old port life in general plus access to the crane’s two huge drive-wheels.QD‑4, ul. Szeroka 67/68, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 69 38, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 15:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Wed free.Tickets available from the Maritime Cultural Centre next door.

The Crane (Żuraw)

Sightseeing PLACES OF INTEREST CROOKED HOUSE Opened in 2004, the award winning, exceedingly higgledypiggledy building by Polish architects Szotyńscy Zaleski was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of Jan Marcin Szancer (1902-1973) and the drawings of the Swedish artist and Sopot resident Per Dahlberg. The most photographed building in Sopot, Centrum Rezydent’s 4,000m2 landmark is topped with a roof of blue-green enamelled shingles designed to give the impression of a dragon, while the remarkably curved walls and windows make it one of the most striking buildings you’re ever likely to see. Filled with shops, restaurants, bars, clubs, cafes and offices the building disappointingly promises far more from the outside than it actually delivers once you’ve entered. It does come to life as night falls, thanks to the mass of bars and clubs inside, and you’d not be wrong for thinking that it got its name because of the state of the people falling out of it in the early hours. Keep an eye out for the wall of fame on the ground floor where Polish celebrities have left their signatures.QN‑3, ul. Haffnera 6, Sopot.

GREAT ARMOURY The Great Armoury was built in 1600-09 on the medieval line of the city walls. A working arsenal until the 1800’s, the armoury remains the finest example of Renaissance architecture in the city. It was designed by Opberghen and is the most impressive of his works in Gdańsk. The welllike structure in front was used as an elevator to transport gunpowder and cannon balls from their storage place in the basement. The armoury was badly damaged in WWII and had to be completely rebuilt and its only in recent years that it has regained its former glory following a spell during which it even played host to a supermarket. It’s now open as an art gallery and there’s a smart wine bar on the ground floor which gives you a chance to take a look inside when there’s no exhibitions taking place.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy 6, Gdańsk, www.zbrojowniasztuki.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00.

GREAT MILL Built by the Teutonic Knights in 1350, this magnificent edifice with its rising tiled roof is the grandest civil construction in Gdańsk. Until 1356 when the Radunia Canal was built, the mill was powered by slaves turning 18 huge wheels. It was the largest industrial plant in Europe during the Middle Ages and functioned until the end of WWII. Since then the mill has served some less than suitable roles, including a PEWEX (a Communist era shop where you could buy goods not available in normal Polish stores but only with foreign currency) and until 2016, as a rather sad looking shopping mall. This treasure is now closed to the public while we await news on its future.QB‑3, ul. Wielkie Młyny 16, Gdańsk.

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com

NEW TOWN HALL

Known fondly by locals of a certain age as ‘Żak’, this beautiful building was originally built as the ‘Generalkommando’ (General Command) of the Prussian Garrison stationed in the city. Costing an eyewatering 6.2 million Marks the residence took three years to build (1898-1901) and incorporated an annex and stables all set in 1.8 hectares of parkland.

The new Free City Parliament (Volkstag) wanted the building for its purposes but lost out to the League of Nations High Commissioner Sir Richard Haking. In 1938 Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster famously promised C.J. Burkhardt (the last High Commissioner) that his residence would be turned into a casino for party dignitaries once they were rid of him although in fact it became the residence of General Max Bock and Lt. Col. Hans-Ludwig Grosser during the war.

The new Communist authorities took over the building after the war but it was in the period 1957-1999 when a new legend was written. The student club Klub Studentów Wybrzeża Żak or Żak for short became a cultural centre for the youth of the Tri-city as well as a hotbed of anti-communist thinking. Stars like the Polish James Dean, Zbigniew Cybulski, performed in the club’s theatre while the parties are reported to have been legendary. The building also featured one of the only cinemas showing independent films as well as a café and bar. As described by the students themselves ‘Żak was like a colourful island in a sea of gray: people banging doors and windows at all events, no matter what it was. That’s when Żak was a legend.’

In 1991 the newly independent city authorities, now staffed by many of Żak’s former members (Gdansk City President Pawel Adamowicz is a self-confessed veteran) decided to create a new cultural centre here and the dilapidated space was, for the next 8 years, one of the best places to party in the city.

The city took back the building in 1999 and returned it to its former glory making it the ceremonial Town Hall of the city. Żak, the cultural centre, lives on in a modern purpose built property in Wrzeszcz.QA‑3, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 1, Gdańsk. Members of the public are free to enter during office hours but you’ll need prior permission to look at the meeting halls. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 41

Sightseeing DANIEL FAHRENHEIT FAHRENHEIT’S HOUSE Forget that everyone deals in Celsius give a moment to Daniel Fahrenheit, the local lad who gave his name to the temperature scale. Born on 24th May, 1686, Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit grew up on ul. Ogarna 95, the eldest of the five Fahrenheit children to survive childhood. The son of a merchant, and a woman called Concordia, Fahrenheit had a nomadic upbringing, his family shifting round the Hanseatic cities of Europe as his father pursued riches. His parents died when he was sixteen years old, apparently after eating some poisonous mushrooms, so Fahrenheit abandoned his education and joined a firm of merchants trading in Amsterdam. Nevertheless his thirst for the sciences lingered, and he continued to hatch experiments in his spare time. His travels took him across Europe, and he became acquainted with leading academic figures like Gottfried Leibenz and Christian Wolff. By 1718 he had quit his work to lecture full time in Amsterdam, and in 1724 he travelled to England to be inaugurated into the Royal Society. However, his defining moment was yet to come. The same year his experiments with thermometers led to the development of the Fahrenheit scale, the first accurate way of measuring temperature in the world. Fahrenheit died in 1736 and is buried in The Hague, but his contribution to science has endured the centuries. Up until the 1970s the scale he devised was used across the world, and while most nations have since abandoned it in favour of Celsius it continues to be used in the USA and a handful of other nations. The site of the building where Daniel Fahrenheit is thought to have lived as a child has been given an attractive paint job and now stands out clearly on the street. The fact is though that the building, like most of the old town, was re-built after being destroyed during the war and now houses private apartments with the front basically a facade stuck onto a post war housing block. The entrance does feature some ornate decoration though to give you some idea of how this street once would have looked.QC‑5, ul.

Ogarna 95, Gdańsk.

FAHRENHEIT MONUMENT Daniel Fahrenheit was born just a block away from this recreation of an 18th century version of his ‘Mercury in glass’ thermometer and barometer. This example, as the plaque below notes, was modelled on an original from 1752.

QC‑5, ul. Mieszczańska, Gdańsk.

42 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Sopot pier is the longest wooden pier in Europe.

SOPOT PIER (MOLO) Sopot’s pier provides stunning views of the sea by day and night. The pier was built in 1827 by a doctor in Napoleon’s army and has been renovated several times.

At 511m, it’s the longest in the Baltic region and the longest wooden pier in Europe (Southend-on-Sea in the UK is the longest overall in case you were wondering). A spa garden with rounded pergolas and a fountain marks the entrance to the pier, from which a sandy beach stretches to either side. The pier was re-opened to its full length in July 2011 with the completion of a brand new marina at its tip as well as the construction of a restaurant and a raised viewing platform. Note that you have to pay for the privilege to walk the pier at certain times during the high season. Note also that you are not allowed to take alcohol onto the pier.QN‑3, Sopot, www.molo. sopot.pl. Open 24 hours. Admission 8/4zł. October 1 to April 30 free.

WISŁOUJŚCIE FORTRESS Until the 16th century, when the growing Westerplatte peninsula finally separated it from the sea, Wisłoujście Fortress stood on the seashore and served as a lighthouse. It also served as a strategic point of defence for Poland, with about 40 bronze cannons and room inside for 1,000 men. The fortress was seized by the Prussians and used as a prison as late as the 19th century before becoming the base for a sailing club between the wars. Destroyed by the Red Army in 1945, work is ongoing to return it to its former glory following its inclusion on the World Monument Watch’s list of 100 most endangered monuments in 2001. It’s an interesting place for a short visit with particular interest the view from the top of the tower, the collection of weaponry in the fort’s underground bunkers and the collection of rebuilt houses inside the fortresses. The fort and the surrounding area are also home to hibernating bats, which while winning it a place on the Natura 2000 list, has also made the rebuilding work even greater a challenge. In season, get there by taking the F5 water tram.Qul. Stara Twierdza 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Closed from October. to April Admission 15/7zł.

Regional cuisine in a heart of Sopot Restauracja Café Polskie Smaki was created out of sentiment towards Polish cuisine and Kashubian culinary traditions. It is a place for everyone who values top quality, fresh, seasonal products, and simple, yet incomparable Polish specialties. Polskie Smaki enchants with traditional Polish meals, and regional delicacies. A twist applied to them by chef Krystian, gives the traditional culinary trends a unique character.

Visit Sopot and taste the unique local cuisine!

Restuaracja Café Polskie Smaki, Powstańców Warszawy 10, Sopot T +48 58 767 19 60 www.restuaracjapolskiesmaki.com/en

Gdańsk Wrzeszcz Wrzeszcz

A mural showing the old brewery in Wrzeszcz

Around 4km north of Gdansk old town, straight along al.

Zwyciestwa (Victory Avenue), you’ll find yourself in the heart of Wrzeszcz. After decades of neglect Wrzeszcz is truly on the up and is these days far more of a commercial centre than the centre of Gdansk itself. While nowhere near as picturesque as Gdansk old town, the area is not without its attractions and points of interest. A growing number of decent cafes, bars and restaurants are also worth further investigation if you feel like getting away from the madding crowds of the historic centre.

The first thing that stands out about Wrzeszcz (pronounced v-zeh-sh-ch) is the name – surely a word with that many ‘z’s and so few vowels can’t be spelt correctly?

Granted it was easier to pronounce when it was known by the German Langfuhr, but the name actually comes from the Polish word ‘wrzos’ meaning heather.

First written mention of the area dates to 1261 when a settlement known as Vrieszt was to be found here. In 1412 the district was awarded to Gerd von der Beke, an ally of the Teutonic Knights, before moving into the hands of the Bischof family in the second half of the 16th century. By the 17th century local tycoon Zachariasz Zappio had acquired much of the property between what is today ul. Do Studzienki and Slowackiego, building a palace there that proved grand enough for Polish king Jan III Sobieski to stay in back in 1677. It’s for this reason you’ll find nearby streets with regal connotations (Dolina Królewska - Royal Valley, and Królewski Potok - Royal Brook). You won’t find remains of the residence, though one legacy that survives 44 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

to this day is the profusion of linden trees. It was the Bürgermeister Daniel Gralath who can claim credit for this, having commissioned the planting of four lanes of linden trees over a two kilometre stretch flanking what was then called Grosse Allee (Great Avenue), today’s Al. Zwyciestwa. The project, which was realized between 1767 and 1770, set him back 100,000 guldens, which we can only imagine to be a rather tidy pile of coins.

The 18th century saw intense construction occur, predominantly two storey manor houses. In 1872, a tramline connecting the district to Gdansk was added, while the early 20th century saw the construction of the Technische Hochschule (today Gdansk Polytechnic) and the municipal hospital (now the medical academy).

During the Free City of Danzig days Wrzeszcz’s population soared to 40,000 and it continued to serve as a home to the middle-classes, as well as a unit of the Prussian ‘Hussars of Death’. It was during this period that Nobel-prize winning writer Gunter Grass was born here. His work was often based on the Langfuhr and Danzig of his childhood and his most famous work, The Tin Drum, is set in the district around the time he was growing up.

While central Gdansk was flattened by the end of the war, Wrzeszcz escaped lightly in comparison. The post-war years, however, saw Wrzeszcz gradually slip into obscurity, its once grand houses left to rot. Today many of the buildings and the older streets, such as ul.

Wajdeloty, are being returned to their former glories thanks to public investment and the arrival of a younger, professional class.

Gdańsk Wrzeszcz WRZESZCZ TODAY Getting to Wrzeszcz from Gdansk is very straightforward.

It is found 4 km north along the main Gdansk – Sopot – Gdynia road (known at the Gdansk end as Al. Zwycięstwa or Victory Avenue). Those without a car or bicycle can take the local SKM commuter train from the main train station in Gdansk. Gdansk – Wrzeszcz is the third stop after Gdansk.

The most enjoyable way to get there, for us at least, is to ride the tram from outside the main train station. By doing so you get to travel up the beautiful linden-lined Al. Zwycięstwa where you can catch a peak of a few lesser sights such as the first Russian tank to enter the Tri-city in 1945 and the magnificent Gdansk Technical Museum. If you get off at the Galeria Baltycka stop you are then in the middle of modern Wrzeszcz.

Modern day Wrzeszcz is effectively split into two by the main Gdansk-Gdynia railtrack and road. To the south you have old Wrzeszcz, birthplace of Gunter Grass (ul. Lelewela), and now an upcoming residential district with some cool bars and eateries. To the north you have the Galeria Baltycka shopping mall, with its comprehensive range of big-name stores and then Garnizon. The redevelopment of this 19th century army barracks is ongoing but there’s already more than enough cafes, bars, restaurants and clubs such as Sztuka Wyboru, Lula, Pobite Gary, Ping Pong, Kreatywna Café and Noce i Dnie to keep you entertained while the centrepiece is the Stary Maneż concert venue with its in-house microbrewery and restaurant (Stary Maneż Brew Café). The large open green area with its landscaped pond surrounded by beautifully restored and remodelled 19th century red brick buildings is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle and brush shoulders with the locals.

In old Wrzeszcz you’ll find café/bars like Kurhaus, Kwasniak ice cream and Yummy! who offer great pancakes while you’ll find the Kuznicki Park has benefited from the revitalization the area is experiencing thanks to the development of the old brewery site.

P L AY O N MOXY WARSAW PRAGA

Check out our maps at the back of this guide to help you navigate your way.

MOXY WARSAW PRAGA

ul. Ząbkowska 29 03-736 Warszawa Centrum Praskie Koneser moxywarsaw.pl | +48 22 279 66 99

playon@moxywarsaw.pl moxywarsawpraga Check the calendar of concerts at Stary Maneż

gdansk.inyourpocket.com 45

Gdańsk Wrzeszcz GÜNTER GRASS Often cited as ‘Germany’s collective conscience’ and commonly regarded as one of the country’s greatest poets, novelists and playwrights, Nobel Prize winner Günter Grass was born in the Free City of Danzig in 1927 to a German grocer, Wilhelm Grass and a Kashubian mother Helena Knoff, in the hospital now known as Kliniczna. Grass’ background was not uncommon in a city where Germans, Poles and the local Kashubian population regularly inter-married and his own story can be viewed as a pocket history of the city in the first half of the 20th century. The mix of cultures in which Grass grew up is also a theme that regularly appears in his work and is particularly evident in Grass’ ‘The Tin Drum’ where the main character Oskar has a Kashubian mother, and two presumptive fathers - the German Alfred Matzerath, his mother’s husband and the Pole Jan Bronski, his mother’s lover. Because Grass uses real places set against an historical background in his fictionalised work, he creates a window into the Danzig of the 1930s and 1940s and the lives of those who lived here during this period.\ Many of the locations where the action is set in his novels are real places where Grass spent time during this period and with many having survived the devastation suffered by the main city of Gdansk/ Danzig during World War II, it is possible to walk the streets of Grass’ childhood and at the same time realise the setting of his stories. The best place to start is his parents’ home close to the Wrzeszcz railway station and bus terminus. The row of buildings on ul. Lendziona (German - Kastanienweg) look much like they did when Grass was born and at 5a you’ll see the entrance to the courtyard where the Grasses lived.

Although his father was an Evangelical Protestant, Gunter Grass was christened a Catholic like his mother in the nearby Sacred Heart of Jesus church on ul. ks.

Józefa Zator Przytockiego 3 (Schwarzerweg). His parents moved to the nearby ul. Joachima Lelewela (Labesweg), where his father, a grocer, also had a shop.

A monument to the author can be found at:QE‑4, Pl. Wybickiego, Gdańsk.

WHAT TO SEE & DO CHURCH OF THE SACRED HEART OF JESUS Consecrated in April 1911 having taken under 2 years to build and designed as a basilica with a rib-like structure over the naves and with a steeple reaching 66 metres.

From 1906 for nearly forty years the parish priest was Father Walter Wienke, who was the priest who christened Gunter Grass. The church was badly damaged during WWII and many records etc were lost.QF‑4, ul. ks. Józefa Zator Przytockiego 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 01 41, www. nsjwrzeszcz.pl. Open 06:00 - 08:30, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 06:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 20:00.

NEW SYNAGOGUE Built in 1927 by the Berlin architects Imberg and Friedman and opened formally with the bringing in of the Torah on September 25 of the same year, Gdańsk’s New Synagogue in the district of Wrzeszcz, was primarily used by Jewish refugees from Russia and Wielkopolska, but also served a small number of Gdańsk Jews as well. Damaged by the Nazis on ‘Kristallnacht’ (November 1938), the Jewish community sold the property to the city of Danzig in a bid to stave off further destruction. Although it was promptly turned into a furniture warehouse, the ploy did save the building from the fiery fate suffered by most of the region’s synagogues.

Amazingly the Torah scrolls survived the war and it was handed back to Gdańsk’s surviving Jewish population following the war. Today it serves as a base for the Jewish Community and along with a small prayer room, there is a small but fascinating exhibition dedicated to the history of Jews in 20th century Gdansk/Danzig. Officially open from 10:00 most days, you’ll probably have to bang hard on the door and ask to be let in.QG‑3, ul. Partyzantów 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 344 06 02, www.gdansk.jewish.org.pl.

GDAŃSK UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY This impressive building was built as a technical university (Technische Hochschule) by the Germans between 1900 and 1904 as Danzig was an important port city which required trained technicians plus it was also considered the perfect place to educate local Danzigers in a German atmosphere and to create a bastion of ‘Germaness’ in the east.

The 200,000 m3 development was opened in the presence of Kaiser Wilhelm II on the 6th of October 1904 and its official title was Königliche Preussische Technische Hochschule (Royal Prussian Technical University).

In 1945 it was turned into a field hospital of 3,000 beds and despite surviving most of the war unscathed, was severely damaged by the Red Army on their arrival when 60% of the buildings were destroyed including a valuable collection of books in the library.QH‑5, ul. Narutowicza 11/12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 347 11 00, www.pg.edu.pl.

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Gdańsk Wrzeszcz ELIKSIR This is visually very impressive, set as it is in the re-modelled 19th century building which formerly housed the Garrison Commandant, and there’s clearly been a lot of thought put into the concept. The menu encourages you to ‘pair’ food and drink and colour coding gives you suggestions while a degustation menu gives you the opportunity to try a set number of dishes and cocktails for a fixed price. Cocktails are its strong suite and with 250 to choose from including a series with names connected to the Tri-city, this is a place to spend an evening having fun trying them out. While we found the food tasty enough, particularly the fish soup, it all took a while and arrived on the chilly side. A night bending the credit card on the cocktails while listening to the live jazz music (Fridays and Saturdays only) seems to be the recommendation here.QE‑1, ul. Hemara 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 570 19 19 10, www.eliksir.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (3070zł). T­E­W POBITE GARY There are certain things which get the alarm bells ringing whenever we visit a new place yet while Pobite Gary checked off three of these, we were pretty impressed by the time we left. Another restaurant located on the Garnizon development, this is a perfect place for a decent feed in relaxed surroundings IF you find yourself in this part of town. The menu is extensive with a huge choice of easily imaginable dishes such as burgers, pizzas, fish, grilled meats, steaks, sandwiches and a very tasty beef pie. With seating for approx. 80 people we’d be worried if they were full but we’ve thoroughly enjoyed our visits here and with a good breakfast menu, a choice of locally brewed beers and a tasty kids’ menu and range of snacks, it earns a recommendation at any time of the day. The name incidentally, literally meaning ‘beaten pans’ is what kids yell when to end a game of hide & seek when someone can’t be found.QF‑1, ul. Słowackiego 21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 733 09 96 33, www.pobitegary.net. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

(26-100zł). T­U­6­W

Old Wrzeszcz is on the up

GARNIZON REBORN

In another example of the continuing revitalization of the Gdansk district of Wrzeszcz, what for many years was a closed military zone is being redeveloped for public use. The Garnizon (Garrison) district, close to the main road between the airport and the city, is gradually being turned into a residential and entertainment district.

The area was originally developed at the beginning of the 20th century as a home for the German Leibhusaren Brigade (Hussar Brigade), which included the 2nd Hussar Regiment Queen Victoria of Prussia, notable for being named in honour of the daughter of Britain’s Queen Victoria, wife of German Kaiser Friedrich III and whose emblem was the skull and crossbones which gained them the popular name of the ‘Death’s Head Hussars’. Home at one stage to nearly 2,000 men, the garrison (then on what was called Hochstrieß in Langfuhr) was taken over by the Free City of Danzig police force following Germany’s defeat in WWI and then in turn by the Polish army following WWII (Hochstrieß is now Al. Żołnierzy Wyklętych).

The area had fallen into decline until the ambitious re-development began which has seen 10 of the old red brick buildings modernised and gradually being turned over to new uses such as cafes and restaurants, a concert venue, offices, hotel and eventually a cinema and theatre. The bulk of the development consists of modern offices and apartments and it promises to breathe new life into a square of land that has lain empty for years.

Your main reasons to visit are the Stary Maneż, a great concert venue which is already attracting some top international names; the Browar Spółdzielczy (Cooperative Brewery), a Multi-tap bar; the Blok Fit climbing walls or any of the new restaurants and cafes which have sprung up, of which Sztuka Wyboru, Lula, Eliksir, Kucharia, Ping Pong and Pobite Gary and have already all impressed.

The old buildings particularly worth looking out for are the former officers’ mess at the Galeria Bałtycka end of Al. Żołnierzy Wyklętych (set to become a theatre); the Stary Maneż restaurant and concert venue, which was formerly the Manège (French for riding academy apparently) and the beautifully modernised building which today houses the Elixir bar/restaurant, the building which formerly was home to the garrison’s commanding officer. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 47

Gdańsk Oliwa

Christmas Lights in Oliwa Park (see p.22) | © Patryk Kosmider

Head north a further 5km on from Wrzeszcz and you’ll come to the sleepy Gdańsk suburb of Oliwa. Today the area is another whose handsome, if rundown buildings are being cleaned up and modernised and which is an increasingly attractive place to live and relax.

The district began life as a small Slavic-Pomeranian settlement that grew around a Cistercian monastery established in the latter half of the 12th century. After a long period as a religious centre and a few catastrophes along the way including substantial devastation caused by the Swedes in 1626 and again in 1656, Oliwa settled down to a peaceful and prosperous life, becoming an independent city from 1874 until 1926 when it was incorporated into the then city of Danzig. Escaping major damage during WWII, Oliwa is home to around 20,000 people and has a number of points of interest as well as cafes and restaurants to make for an interesting day out.

Top of the list of places to visit is the cathedral which originally dates to the 12th century and plays host to some marvellous organ recitals. Oliwa is also home to the city zoo and this is well-worth a visit if you have children with you. Set in the forests on the edge of the town, this is a beautiful setting and you can spend hours wandering up and down the hills. The enclosures are constantly being improved or rebuilt and each season seems to bring a new resident.

Back in the centre of the town you have Oliwa Park, one of the city’s most attractive spaces, set in the grounds of the Abbot’s Palace. The park in home to the Museum of Modern Art and Ethnographical Museum while the grounds are where you’ll find a palm house and the socalled Whispering Caves.

48 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

GDAŃSK ZOO One of Poland‘s best zoos, set in the forests of Oliwa and at a fraction of the price of visiting a western zoo. On show are a host of wild animals with the kids‘ favourites being the lions, elephants, hippos, chimpanzees and giraffes.

On a pleasant day it is quite possible to spend most of the day here as the park makes for a pleasant and quite exhausting walk and there are additional attractions such as staggered feeding times, a train tour of the whole park and a central food area with some small kids’ rides for the kids (not in winter). Bus N°179 runs from the Oliwa Pętla stop all the way to the front gate.QJ‑1, ul. Karwieńska 3, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 552 17 51, www.zoo.gda.pl.

Open 09:00 - 15:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

Admission 30/25zł.

ETHNOGRAPHIC DEPARTMENT OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM Located inside the 18th-century Abbatial Granary inside Oliwa Park, this delightful little diversion features three floors showcasing all manner of folk-related artefacts from Eastern Pomerania and is considered to be one of the best collections of its kind in Poland. Exhibits include a wide range of folk art from wood carvings to some really amazing paintings made between the 18th and the early 20th century as well as folk furniture, displays of traditional fishing implements and other oddities. Highly recommended.QJ‑5, ul. Cystersów 19 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 101, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł. Fri free. N

Gdańsk Oliwa OLIWA PARK The exact origins of Oliwa’s delightful 10-hectare park are lost to time, but what is known is that Oliwa’s last Cistercian abbot, Jacek Rybiński (1701-1782) had the gardener Kazimierz Dębiński originate the beginnings of its contemporary appearance by designing a French Rococo part of the garden, still in existence today in the south of the park. After Rybiński’s death a family by the name of HohenzollernHechingen took over the park, introducing even more grand designs, and over the years, and in the hands of several different people, Oliwa Park gradually took on its modern look, with the addition of a Chinese garden, English touches, a botanical gardens and palm house. Today’s park is a hugely popular place for people to come and relax, picnic and enjoy the many sights it has on offer. A fun attraction are the so-called Whispering Caves (aka. Dionysus’ Ears) to the southeast of the Pałac Opatów. Assuming that nobody has relieved themselves here for a while, it’s possible for two people to stand in each ‘ear’ and have a conversation in the quietest of whispers. Note that the Palm House is currently being rebuilt and will re-open in 2019.QJ‑5, ul. Opacka 12, Gdańsk, www.parkoliwski.gdansk.pl. Open 05:00 - 20:00.

PACHOŁEK HILL Less of a park - more of a point of interest. Located between the centre of Oliwa and the zoo to the west, the ‘point of interest’ at Pachołek Hill sits 100m above sea level where a 15m viewing platform has been built which offers wonderful views of the whole Tri-city. Well worth a look particularly if you like a bit of exercise.QJ‑3, ul. Tatrzańska, Gdańsk (Oliwa).

OLIWA CEMETERY The main cemetery in the Gdansk district of Oliwa is notable for the number of older graves you can find as you wander its paths but it really comes into its own on All Saints’ Day. Then there is probably no better place in the city to experience the eery atmosphere a late afternoon walk through a graveyard lit by thousands upon thousands of flickering candles can create. It might sound odd to sightsee a graveyard but this is where you will find us every November 1 and we don’t have any friends, relatives or ancestors buried here.QJ‑4, ul. Opacka 8, Gdańsk.

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Inside the superb Pałac Opatów, of which the oldest parts date back to the 15th century but which owes its present look to a splendid Rococo overhaul in the mid-18th century, the Contemporary Art Museum houses works by more than 140 post-WWII Polish artists as well as putting on the occasional temporary show.QJ‑4, ul. Cystersów 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 124, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Fri free. U

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OLIWA CATHEDRAL

Oliwa’s towering Cathedral taking pride of place at the western end of Oliwa Park was originally built as a simple wooden structure in the 12th century, and it was only in 1224 that the brickwork was added. The year 1350 saw a half-wit kitchen boy accidentally start a fire that engulfed the whole building. Reconstruction began immediately, but in 1626 the building was again destroyed, this time by marauding Swedish soldiers. Not content with stealing its bells, altars and valuables, the Swedes kidnapped Oliwa’s hapless monks for good measure and in a twist of irony, it was in this very building that Poland and Sweden finally put the past behind them and signed a peace treaty in 1660. Built along a classic three-aisle design with a vaulted basilica and shaped in the form of the Latin cross, today’s interior is dominated by the extraordinary organ over the main entrance. Built between 1755 and 1780 by the organ master Johann Wulf, and at the time the largest organ of its type in Europe, it features moving cherubs, trumpet-playing angels and comes with a staggering 7,896 pipes and 110 registers allowing for an incredible range of pitch and sounds including rippling water, animal cries and human voices; hear it for yourself at the hours listed. A couple of other points of note are the memorial plague to inter-war Danzig bishop Edward O’Rourke found on the wall to the right as you enter from the main entrance and, at the other end of the church, a strange and beautiful canopy around the high altar, covered with stars and featuring 150 angels poking out of a mass of clouds.QJ‑4, ul. Biskupa Edmunda Nowickiego 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 47 65, www.archikatedraoliwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 14:00 - 17:30, No visiting during mass please. Organ recitals January March 12:00, Sun 15:00; April 11:00; 12:00, Sun 15:00, 16:00. Admission free unless visiting during a organ performance (donations welcomed). gdansk.inyourpocket.com 49

Hevelius ASTRONOMICAL ACHIEVEMENTS

When talking about Gdansk’s most famous resident, you not only have to decide which name to use - Johannes Hevelius if you’re German or Jan Heweliusz in Polish - but how exactly to credit him first. As a popular brewer? A successful astronomer? A prolific inventor? The onetime mayor of Gdansk? The Da Vinci of Poland? Described by one local publication on the 400th anniversary of his birth as Gdansk’s “Man of the millennium” Hevelius had a rich and fascinating life most of which he spent here in this city.

A LIFE IN GDANSK Born in Gdansk in 1611 into a wealthy German-speaking family, Hevelius was one of three brothers and six sisters and the only male child to make it to adulthood. The German- Czech children of Abraham Howelcke and Kordula Hecker had a privileged upbringing, and Hevelius was sent to Gymnasium at the age of seven. Encouraged by tutor Peter Cruger, the young Johannes had an early fascination with mathematics and astronomy which carried on past his studying law in Holland when he travelled around Europe meeting leading astronomers.

This came to an end when his parents summoned him home to take over the family brewery. Hevelius married Katherine Rebeschke, the daughter of a neighbouring brewing family, in 1635 and embraced the family tradition of brewing beer. Yet despite his devotion to beer (Hevelius helmed the local brewing guild), the pull of astronomy was one he could not ignore.

50 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

The combination of an eclipse of the sun in 1639 and the pleas of his former teacher, Peter Cruger, to resume his interest in the stars inspired Hevelius to take up his former hobby once again. In 1641 he constructed an observatory on the roof of his home where he worked on creating instruments for the study of astronomy that quickly outpaced anything seen in Europe - including a 150-foot telescope built on the shore of the Baltic Sea. Hevelius quickly became a master of his science, discovering numerous constellations and comets, extensively documenting the topography of the moon, and observing the phases of mercury and spots on the sun. These discoveries and observations led Hevelius to publish 20 works in Latin detailing his findings, many using his own well-crafted illustrations. Unsurprisingly, Hevelius’s work and stunning observatory caught the attention of his peers, and he was elected to the Royal Society of London in 1664 (the first Pole in the Society’s history). He also received a visit from Edmund Halley, discoverer of Halley’s Comet, who sought to compare Hevelius’s use of a sextant with open sights to the use of a sextant with telescopic sights. The winner? Hevelius proved he could assess star positions without a telescope as easily (and accurately) as Halley could with.

Throughout his work in astronomy Hevelius was also heavily involved in municipal matters in Gdansk. In 1640 he became the church administrator at St.Catherine’s Church, and served for a decade as a court juror. And from 1651 until his death, Hevelius was a councillor for the city of Gdansk.

Despite his many roles in the town and running a successful brewery, paying for his research required Hevelius to seek the patronage of Polish kings and queens in order to gain financial support. King Jan Kazimierz and Queen Maria Ludwika were the first royalty to visit the observatory, and King Jan III Sobieski the first to give Hevelius a permanent annual salary for his work - - which might explain why Hevelius named a constellation “Scutum Sobiescianum” (Sobieski’s shield). Hevelius also drew an annual salary from the French King Louis XIV. In 1662 he lost his long-time wife Katherine, who for many years had run the family brewing business so her husband could focus on astronomy. A year later the 52-year-old Hevelius married 16-year-old Elizabeth Koopman, who quickly became a partner and ally in Hevelius’ work (many consider Koopman to be the first female astronomer and “the mother of moon charts”). In between giving birth to four children she managed the observatory and, following his death, completed their jointly created catalogue of 1,564 stars called Prodromus astronomae.

Tragedy struck the family again when a fire ravaged the observatory in 1679; all of Hevelius’s instruments and tools were destroyed in the blaze. Though he quickly repaired the space in time to observe the great comet of 1680 (and named the constellation Sextans in honour of his destroyed instruments) his health was permanently damaged by the shock of the disaster and Hevelius died on his 76th birthday in 1687.

Hevelius HEVELIUS’S HOME & BREWERY Following Hevelius’s marriage in 1635 to his neighbour Katherine Rebeschke, he took over a pair of tenement houses and a brewery which came to him as part of his new-wife’s dowry. This property expanded in 1649 when Hevelius inherited his family’s adjacent house and brewery following his father’s death, the new property covering an area which filled most of the space between (B-2/3) Korzenna, Bednarska and Zawrotna. The property would have consisted of the living quarters at the front, brewery to the rear and ultimately Hevelius’ observatory on the roof. The Hevelius family was to live and work here for many decades and the property is thought to have remained in the family until the start of the 19th century.

Photographs taken over a hundred years later suggest parts of the structure from Hevelius’ time still existed but these, like much of the surrounding city were destroyed in the fall of Danzig in 1945. Despite attempts to re-create the tenements in the 1950s, the ruins were finally pulled down and a new residential block built on the site, a building which today awaits renovation. While many sources quote the address of the Hevelius home and brewery as 5355 Korzenna today you will find them allocated different numbers on the same street. A unkempt plaque denotes the spot where the great man once worked and lived.

QB‑2, ul. Korzenna 2/4/6 (corner of ul. Heweliusza), Gdańsk.

JOHANNES HEVELIUS MONUMENT This statue was designed by Jan Szczypka and unveiled on January 28th 2006, the 395th anniversary of his birth in the gardens dedicated to him opposite the Old Town Hall. Hevelius is widely regarded as the last great astronomer to work without lenses and instead made many of his discoveries using a quadrant and alidade, tools he is depicted with here as he stares up at a wonderful recreation of his work on an adjacent surviving pre-war building.QB‑3, ul. Korzenna, Gdańsk.

OLD TOWN HALL This marvellous 16th-century Renaissance building was once home to the office of Hevelius in his role as an Old Town Council Lord. The former headquarters of the Council of Gdańsk, the Old Town Hall served as the headquarters of the Soviet Army during the dying days of WWII, probably because it was practically the only building left standing in the city at the time. Today the building is open to the public and has become the focus of much creativity. Concerts are held upstairs, and the superb Baltic Sea Cultural Centre (see Culture & Events) now have their offices there. There’s also a cellar restaurant, and a good bookshop on the ground floor.

QB‑3, ul. Korzenna 33/35, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 51, www.nck.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.

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ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH This 14th century brick church, the former parish church of the Old Town and where Hevelius was once church administrator, is also his final resting place. You will find his tomb at the rear behind the altar along with an epitaph funded by his grandson nearly 100 years after the great man’s death. Following a fire in 2006, which resulted in the ceiling collapsing, work to restore the church took a number of years. A fairly spartan scene, the highlight is a 76 metre baroque tower housing a 49-bell carillon, which has chimed on the hour - every hour - since the 50th anniversary of the outbreak of WWII in 1939. The tower contains a small museum dedicated to tower clocks but this is only open to the public in the summer.QB‑3, ul. Profesorska 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 15 95, www.gdansk.karmelici.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, No visiting during mass please.

ST. JOHN’S CHURCH Near the Motława River between ul. Świętojańska and ul.

Straganiarska you’ll find this huge brick vault dating from the 1300s and the church in which Johannes Hevelius was christened in 1611. Having had the misfortune to have been built on swampland, what remained of the edifice was slowly sinking on one side until a programme of renovation saw it shored up. Though it was burnt and completely abandoned after WWII, the church has been completely renovated and it is once again one of the great landmarks of Gdańsk. While many of the interior fittings have been moved to St. Mary’s its famous 12 metre high renaissance altar remains as do a number of tombs and gravestones which give you a good idea of the city’s multicultural history. St John’s is no longer a parish church but still hosts mass once a week. It’s main role now is as the St John’s Centre (Centrum Sw. Jana) which hosts exhibitions and it’s a superb concert venue thanks to the building’s unique acoustics which make it one of the most haunting venues in the city.QC‑4, ul. Świętojańska 50, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 51, www.sw-jan.vn.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, No visiting during mass please.

UL. PIWNA You can also wander along streets that were important in the life of Hevelius. Beers fans will enjoy a walk down Gdansk’s ulica Piwna, which was once named Jopengasse after the popular Hevelius-made Jopenbier brand.QB‑4. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 51

WWII in Gdańsk

The first shots of WWII being fired by the German battleship Schleswig-Holstein at Westerplatte.

September 1, 1939, is forever etched in the history books as the day the world went to war. The world would never be the same again, and it started here, seventy-five years ago, with Danzig/Gdansk as the opening gambit in Hitler’s vile master plan.

PRELUDE The city had long been caught in a tug of war between Germany and Poland and the decision to make it a Free City State by the League of Nations following World War I left neither side happy. Nonetheless the region thrived, and the two communities continued to live together as they had for centuries, though the Germans now controlled the State senate, the police and much of the business, while the Poles dominated the railways, port authority and had their own postal service. The rise of Hitler changed all that, and bitter rivalries soon came to the surface after his election in Germany. Anti-Polish sentiment spread rapidly, and by 1935 the local police force had started keeping tabs on any Pole seen as a threat to the German way.

The rise in tensions wasn’t met with surprise by the Poles.

In 1925 the League of Nations had bowed to pressure and consented to the deployment of a token 88-man Polish force across the water from the Free City on the Polish controlled Westerplatte Peninsula. As the years went on, and Hitler’s posturing became ever more threatening, the Poles continued to covertly strengthen their foothold, smuggling in military hardware and secretly building fortifications in breach of League of Nations decrees.

52 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

OUTBREAK On August 31, 1939, Nazi units dressed in Polish uniform infamously staged a mock attack on a radio tower in the German border town of Gleiwitz (now Gliwice). Photos of the charade were flashed across the world, with Hitler claiming a provocative attack by the Polish army. The following dawn, Germany launched a strike on Westerplatte, an attack that would ultimately kick off World War II. Popular theory asserts the first shots of the war were fired from the German warship the SMS Schleswig Holstein, supposedly visiting Gdansk on a goodwill mission. Wrong.

Logbooks recovered by the Nowy Port Lighthouse across the water from Westerplatte prove beyond doubt that the German battleship was pre-empted by a matter of three minutes by a gun emplacement nestled halfway up the lighthouse. The Poles, taken aback, missed this target entirely. Second time round they scored a direct hit, credited to a Pole called Eugeniusz Grabowski, thereby in all likelihood making the lighthouse gunners the first casualties in a war that would go on to claim 55 million lives.

The German shelling of Westerplatte was simultaneously supported by infantry attacks on the Westerplatte gateway, with the Polish defenders repelling repeated attempts at advance by the navy storm troopers. At precisely the same time this assault had begun, another equally ferocious battle was being waged at the small post office in the city’s thennamed Hevelius Square. Detachments of German police and SS laid siege to the 50 Polish post workers inside, who put up a brave struggle for over 17 hours until casualties became intolerable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with flamethrowers.

WWII in Gdańsk SIEGE Yet while the post office capitulated, the garrison at Westerplatte held on. The plan was simple: in the event of an attack in Gdansk the Polish navy, stationed in nearby Gdynia (Poland), would sail in to help, aircraft from Puck would be scrambled, and the bridge in Tczew would be blown to stop a German advance into what was the demilitarized zone of the Free State. In the event nearly everything that could go wrong, did. The navy was caught out in the Bay of Gdansk, while the air force was destroyed while still on the ground. Polish customs officers did succeed in blowing the bridge at Tczew, crucially slowing the German advance whose armour was gathered over in Szymankowo. They paid for their bravery with their lives, and all were later shot by their German opposites, themselves also armed and primed for war. Today the Stutthof museum has a postexecution picture of a grinning Nazi shooting party taken outside the Pullman wagons in which the Polish officers had lived. Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 3, but hopes of outside help being directed to Poland proved ill-founded. At 10:15 on the morning of September 7, Major Henryk Sucharski took the decision to raise the white flag. Gdynia surrendered two weeks later, and then Hel - the final Polish stronghold in Pomerania fell on the 2nd of October by which time Poland had been invaded from the east by the Soviet Union. Ironically, Hel, the final stand for the Poles, would also be the last place the Nazis would relinquish in 1945.

UNDER THE REICH Hitler had always made much of incorporating Danzig into the Reich, yet somewhat surprisingly he only made two visits to the city - a deep-held suspicion of Danzigers, and a fear of assassination explaining such apathy. The second of these visits came on September 18, 1939, with an exultant Fuhrer arriving to Sopot on board his armoured train, the Amerika. It was there he checked into the Kasino Hotel (today the Sofitel Grand), booking into rooms 251253. His stay lasted a week, during which time he received a delegation from Japan, visited the Schleswig-Holstein, Westerplatte and inspected a parade outside Dwor Artus on Gdansk’s Dlugi Targ.

By this time fervent Nazis were already clamouring to rid the region of all traces of Polonization. Intelligentsia and other such targets were arrested and incarcerated in numerous camps and prisons, including the Victoriaschule (ul. Kładki 1. B-5), which was used as a interview and processing centre, the city jail (now replaced by a newer model) and Stutthof - later to morph into a notorious concentration camp. Flags, signs and anything else remotely Polish was torched and destroyed.

Governor and Gauleiter of the region was Albert Forster, and his reign still arouses controversy and debate among both scholars and survivors. Unlike other Gauleiters in annexed and occupied territories, Forster followed a program of assimilation, granting thousands of locals German citizenship if they swore German heritage. Even

more remarkably, those Poles rounded up and persecuted in the first wave of arrests could seek German citizenship, and even pursue compensation and restitution for any property originally seized. Benign by some benchmarks, Forster was a form Nazi on others. Jews faced merciless persecution, Stutthof emerged as a true place of terror and he is personally thought to have given the order for the mass murder of over 2,000 Poles executed between 1939 and 1940. Eventually caught and held on the Hel Peninsula trying to flee westwards, even his death remains a mystery - some claim he was hung in Biskupia Gora after the war, others that it was his body double who faced the hangman.

Yet more sources claim he was taken to Warsaw’s Mokotow Prison and beaten to death. The truth, it appears, will never be known.

THE END For ordinary Danzigers the quality of life remained relatively good for much of the war. Zoppot/Sopot, especially, became a favourite stamping ground for soldiers on R&R, and in spite of rationing and occasional shortages life didn’t get worse until the closing stages. The first warning signs that all was not well came with the first air raids, yet even so Allied bombers targeted the shipyards - home to munitions factories producing U-Boats and V1 and V2 rockets - and the Zaspa airfield. The war still seemed far off, even in 1943 when work commenced on whisking cultural treasures to locations westwards.

By 1944 a different picture had emerged; Danzig had become a major transit point, not least with swarms of refugees fleeing from the east, as well as a regular target for bombing raids. By March, 1945, with the Red Army fast approaching, the population had reached 1.5 million and the city stood on the precipice of chaos. Suspected deserters were strung up from the lampposts and trees of al.

Zwyciestwa (or Hindenburg Allee as it was then known), and the city descended into a Dantean vision. Historian Antony Beevor writes of the ensuing siege: ‘Fighter bombers strafed the towns and port areas. Soviet Shturmoviks treated civilian and military targets alike. A church was as good as a bunker, especially when it seemed as if the objective was to flatten every building which still protruded conspicuously above the ground... Tens of thousands of women and children, terrified of losing their places in the queues to escape, provided unmissable targets.’

Danzig had been designated a closed fortress, or Festung, and the defence proved bitter and bloody. Zoppot/Sopot fell on March 23, Gotenhafen/Gdynia on March 28, and both faced the full wrath of a drunken, avenging army, spurring the defenders of Danzig to fight even harder to grant the remaining civilians the chance of evacuation.

Encircled and out-powered, even when the opportunity to surrender was offered the Germans continued fighting; that fires were burning a month after Danzig was captured is testament to the ferocity of the siege. Polish and Red Army troops finally entered the city on March 30; Gdansk, home to the first shots of the war, now lay adrift on a sea of rape and ruin. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 53

WWII in Gdańsk THE MUSEUM OF WWII

WESTERPLATTE A large protective arm smothering Gdańsk’s Nowy Port to its south, the peninsula of Westerplatte first sprang to fame as a popular health resort in the middle of the 19th century, although it’s as a military zone and the place where the opening shots of WWII were fired that Westerplatte is more notoriously remembered.

World War II began with Germany’s attack on the Polish Military Transport Depot on the Westerplatte Peninsula in Gdansk (or the Free City of Danzig as it was in 1939) and so it’s appropriate that this remarkable museum, opened in March 2017, should have been built in the city. Nine years in the making, the whole experience is quite breath-taking and it really needs to be seen to be appreciated. Those interested in the topic can easily spend a whole day there, and even moving at a steady pace will need 2-3 hours just to see everything. The heart of the museum is the permanent exhibition which is split into three parts – The Road to War, The War’s Long Shadow and The Horrors of War. Within these three areas there are a total of 18 rooms or thematic sections covering different aspects of how World War II came about and developed and the suffering it caused. While the numerous films, photographs and excellent English translations mark this museum out as one of the best we’ve ever visited, it is the collection of artefacts, many the personal belongings of families involved with the war which were donated to the museum, that really bring the personal experiences of World War II to life.

While there are many stories which will touch you, the story of what happened to Poland and her people will leave an indelible mark. There are so many parts to recommend that there isn’t enough space here to do it justice, but if we had to pick out one, it would be the section dedicated to the photos and film of American journalist Julien Bryan who recorded what he witnessed during the German attack on Warsaw in September 1939 – the photo of a young girl kneeling over her elder sister senselessly mowed down by a German pilot while picking potatoes leaves you in no doubt of the complete horror of what real war looks like.

We advise that you go online and reserve tickets ahead of time (entrances are limited) and make sure to spend 5zł on an audio-guide, which senses where you are and tells you what you are looking at. The exhibition is extremely impressive and, in our opinion, alone justifies making a visit to Gdansk.QD‑2, Pl. Władysława Bartoszewskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 75 20, www.muzeum1939.pl/en. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 23/16zł, family ticket 55zł (2 adults and up to 3 children). Tue free.

54 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

On March 14, 1924 Poland was awarded Westerplatte as a location for bringing in military equipment and ammunition from abroad (Polish Military Transit Depot).

Inaugurated on November 11, 1925 over the next 14 years Westerplatte grew from a depot with a 88-man attachment into a huge defensive fort, and was considered so strategically important to Hitler that his invasion of Poland effectively started here.

The Polish troops on Westerplatte were in effect a crack unit, by now numbering around 200 troops, whose orders were to hold for 24 hours in the event of an attack to give air, ground and sea forces the opportunity to support them from mainland Poland.

The speed and strength of the German attack put paid to that plan almost immediately with the Polish navy caught out in the Bay of Gdansk and the bulk of the air support from Puck destroyed on the ground.

Yet the troops on Westerplatte continued to hold out despite coming under intense bombardment by air, sea and 3,500 troops on the ground. The hope was that France and Great Britain, who joined the war on September 3, would provide support but this never materialised. Eventually, on September 7, a lack of water, ammunition and medical supplies convinced the commanding officer Major Henryk Sucharski to surrender the Poles’ heavily damaged stronghold. He and his troops left Westerplatte to salutes from their captors in recognition of their bravery in a battle that had cost just 15 Polish lives.

The battle, while of little strategic importance to the outcome of the battle for the city, still represents a source of immense pride for many Poles who recognise the bravery of their countrymen in their resistance to one of the country’s traditional foes.

Today Westerplatte is a memorial site featuring a scattering of shelled bunkers, burnt-out ruins, a couple of old snack bars, souvenir stalls and a small museum open during the summer in the pivotal Guardhouse Number 1. There is also a permanent outdoor exhibition entitled ‘Westerplatte: Spa-Bastion-Symbol’ on display.

To get to Westerplatte on public transport from the main train station in Gdansk, catch bus 106 from outside of the station. During the summer months the easiest way to get out there is to take the Water Tram #5 which stops outside the Hilton in the Old Town and drops you at Westerplatte.

WWII in Gdańsk GUARDHOUSE NUMBER 1 A small museum on Westerplatte adding further colour to the events of September 1939 and housed inside the former Guardhouse from which the strategic defence of Westerplatte was conducted (albeit in a different location from where it originally stood). The two shells outside were fired from the SMS Schleswig-Holstein during the attack. The guardhouse is just a few small rooms so viewing the exhibition won’t take long, but there some interesting exhibits including equipment, uniforms and weapons from the time.Qul. Sucharskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl.

Admission 5/3zł.

NOWY PORT LIGHTHOUSE A fascinating delve into Gdańsk‘s maritime history, the city‘s Nowy Port Lighthouse was inspired by a long-lost lighthouse built in 1871 in Cleveland, Ohio, in the USA. This one in front of you was built in 1893, the 28-metre tower functioned as a lighthouse, harbour pilot’s tower and time-ball station until it was finally decommissioned in 1984. Its principal claim to fame is its use by German soldiers in September 1939, and it was from the upper floors that a machine gun emplacement fired the very first shots of WWII. Painstakingly restored by an amiable Polish-Canuck the centrepiece of the lighthouse is a time ball, unveiled on May 21, 2008. During its former life it was synchronised to the Royal Astronomical Observatory in Berlin but today it takes its signal from PhysikalischTechnische Bundesanstalt (PTB) in Braunschweig which is broadcast as a DCF77 long-wave radio signal by the European Time Centre in Mainflingen, Germany. Timeballs were originally designed to allow ships’ captains out at sea to synchronise their on-board clocks exactly before they headed back out, the dropping of the ball being the signal to mark the hour - this would allow them to calculate longitude resulting in more accurate navigation.

Until the end of August you can reach the lighthouse by water tram F5 from Targ Rybny which stops at the lighthouse after dropping off at Westerplatte on the opposite bank. At other times you can take any of trams 2, 3 or 8 from the Main Train Station and switch to the No 5 tram at the Wyspiańskiego stop (6th stop) heading in the direction of Latarnia Morska.Qul. Przemysłowa 6A, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 601 15 02 51, www.latarnia.gda.pl.

27 Apr - 31 Aug: Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 10/6zł.

N­Y STATUE TO THE DEFENDERS OF WESTERPLATTE In the southwest corner of the peninsula is a huge, 25-metre monument made of 236 granite blocks. The work of the architect Adam Haupt and sculptor Franciszek Duszenko and called Heroes of Westerplatte, the controversial grey beast was officially unveiled on October 9, 1966, and it’s here memorial commemorations are held on September 1 each year to mark the attack on Westerplatte and the beginning of WWII.Qul. Sucharskiego, Gdańsk.

THE POST OFFICE SIEGE

At just after 04:45 local time on September 1, 1939, as the Germans launched their attack on Westerplatte and WWII officially began, another ferocious assault was just beginning at the small post office in the city’s then-called Hevelius Square. Detachments of German police and SS units lay siege to the 50 Polish post office workers inside, who put up a brave struggle for over 17 hours until the casualties became unbearable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with flame-throwers.

One month later on October 2, 30 of the surviving postal workers were sentenced to death and subsequently shot a few weeks later (their bodies were only discovered in Zaspa Cemetery in 1991), and the whole episode has become part of modern Polish folklore. ​A wonderful and truly heroic story of David and Goliath proportions, what all accounts of the story fail to tell is just what a bunch of harmless postmen were doing armed to the teeth, and why it required two elite Nazi units to deal with them. The answer it seems lies in the fact that the Polish Post Office in the Free City of Danzig acted as a cover for Polish intelligence. So while the official history of the events of September 1, 1939 suggests the Nazis held Postman Patryk and his colleagues in contempt, the truth is probably a lot more logical and the attack was a strategic attempt to quell Polish resistance in the city.

POLISH POST OFFICE During the era of the Free City the Polish state was represented by various public bodies such as Polish Railways and the Polish Postal Service. The headquarters for that were here in the Polish Post Office. It is thought that not only was the building the home of the postal service but that it also acted as the centre of the Polish government’s intelligence gathering services in the de-militarised zone. Badly damaged in the battle to flush the Polish postal ‘workers’ out it was nearly completely destroyed by the end of the war. Reconstructed between 1949 and 1951, it is still a functioning post office which also houses a small museum dedicated to the events of September 1, 1939 and an exhibition of local postal history from the 18th century to the outbreak of WWII.QC‑3, ul. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/4zł. Tue free. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 55

Solidarity

Lech Walesa is hoisted through the Lenin Shipyard following the signing of the August Accords, August 31, 1980.

Stanisław Składanowski / ECS Collection

THE STORY OF SOLIDARITY The word Solidarity, or Solidarność as it is in Polish, is synonymous with the city of Gdansk. Although the movement which burst into life at the time of the shipyard strikes of 1980 is closely connected with Gdansk, the phenomenon that was Solidarność was not confined to the city. If truth be told there are other cities in Poland which feel that Gdansk has unfairly become the symbol for a movement that connected with and was born from Poles throughout the country. But for the foreign visitor with a memory of the 1980 strikes the image of Solidarity is Gdansk, its shipyards and the leader of the protests - Lech Wałęsa.

The story of Solidarity is a more complicated one than most foreign visitors will be aware of. Although the movement and the trade union were officially christened in 1980, their roots can be traced back some ten years earlier. Protesting against plunging living standards workers at the Lenin Shipyards in Gdansk and other yards in Gdynia, Elblag and Szczecin took to the streets, with the army promptly called in to intervene. Bloody clashes led to the deaths of 44 people, and ultimately forced communist leader Władysław Gomułka out of power. Replaced by Edward Gierek, his half-mad economic policies served to create an illusion of prosperity, as well as generating a flush of jobs in Gdansk’s Nowy Port area. But the memory of 1970 did not fade and Gdansk remained a ticking bomb for the authorities. With the seventies drawing to a close tensions started to rise again, with living standards falling and the economy in huge debt built on massive foreign loans. On August 7, 1980 56 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

the dismissal of female crane operator, Anna Walentynowicz at Gdansk’s Lenin Shipyards provided the spark for workers to go on strike. Workers already disillusioned with price increases and the falling value of their salaries were ready to take action. Lech Wałęsa and other activists were already planning strike action but it soon became clear that momentum within the yard was growing quickly and it was this that spurred Wałęsa, fired from the shipyard in 1976 for anti-government activities, to famously scale the wall of the Lenin shipyard to take control. A strike was called and the workers demands were met on August 16, but with the strikers leaving the yard, Walentynowicz and another woman, Alina Pienkowska, are credited with convincing some workers to stay and turn the strike into more than a demand for better working conditions. Wałęsa was convinced to stay and his trademark sharp trading managed to steer his colleagues away from mere wage demands towards the idea of creating a trade union movement to represent the workers and to fight injustice.

This time the workers learned from the mistakes of 1970 and did not confront the authorities but instead locked themselves into the shipyards. Three days later leaders representing workers from over 150 industrial plants, as well as crucially members from across the social spectrum in the country, met in the shipyards to hammer out 21 demands, including the legalisation of independent trade unions. Days of tension followed, with tanks and armed units stationed menacingly outside the gates of the yards.

On August 31 the government backed down, agreeing to meet the 21 demands - thereby marking the first peaceful

Solidarity victory over communism. The agreement was famously signed in the shipyards by Lech Wałęsa using a large souvenir Pope John Paul II pen.

A month later, on September 22, delegates from 36 regional unions met in Gdansk forming a coalition under the name of Solidarity. Lech Wałęsa, the unlikely hero of August, was elected as chairman. The next few months marked a golden period for the nation; some ten million people joined the Solidarity movement, and Poland enjoyed a freedom unknown for decades.

Riding the crest of a wave Solidarity continued to lobby for further reforms and free elections, infuriating the Kremlin.

With Soviet invasion a looming threat the Polish Minister of National Defence, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declared a state of martial law on December 13, 1981, and tanks once again rolled through the streets. Though Solidarity was officially dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate underground. When in 1984, Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, Solidarity’s chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police over a million people attended his funeral.

Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988, and the following year Solidarity was once again granted legal status. Participating in Poland’s first postcommunist election the party swept to victory, with Wałęsa leading from the front. Lech Wałęsa became the first freely elected president of Poland in December 1990 and served until 1995 when he lost the following election to Aleksander Kwasniewski, a former communist.

In spite of overseeing Poland’s transition to a market economy, the members of Solidarity started to splinter into new political groupings and the party gradually found its power being eroded by the emergence of fresher political parties. The 2000 elections for the Sejm (lower parliament) sounded the death knell for the party. Failing to even make the minimum vote to qualify for representation in parliament, the party which changed history found itself out of active politics. In recent years Solidarność has once again become the voice of protest as it campaigns against government policies, such as job cuts and the raising of the pension age, as Poland’s largest trade union.

Walesa speaks

Alojzy Tomaszewski

AUGUST ACCORDS 1. Acceptance of free trade unions independent of the Communist Party and of enterprises, in accordance with convention No. 87 of the International Labor Organization concerning the right to form free trade unions, which was ratified by the Communist Government of Poland.

2. A guarantee of the right to strike and of the security of strikers and those aiding them.

3. Compliance with the constitutional guarantee of freedom of speech, the press and publication, including freedom for independent publishers, and the availability of the mass media to representatives of all faiths.

4. A return of former rights to: 1) People dismissed from work after the 1970 and 1976 strikes, and 2) Students expelled from school because of their views. The release of all political prisoners, among them Edward Zadrozynski, Jan Kozlowski, and Marek Kozlowski. A halt in repression of the individual because of personal conviction.

5. Availability to the mass media of information about the formation of the Inter-factory Strike Committee and publication of its demands.

6. The undertaking of actions aimed at bringing the country out of its crisis situation by the following means: a) making public complete information about the social-economic situation, and b) enabling all sectors and social classes to take part in discussion of the reform programme.

7. Compensation of all workers taking part in the strike for the period of the strike, with vacation pay from the Central Council of Trade Unions.

8. An increase in the base pay of each worker by 2,000 złoty a month as compensation for the recent raise in prices.

9. Guaranteed automatic increases in pay on the basis of increases in prices and the decline in real income.

10. A full supply of food products for the domestic market, with exports limited to surpluses.

11. The abolition of ‘commercial’ prices and of other sales for hard currency in special shops.

12. The selection of management personnel on the basis of qualifications, not party membership. Privileges of the secret police, regular police and party apparatus are to be eliminated by equalizing family subsidies, abolishing special stores, etc.

13. The introduction of food coupons for meat and meat products (during the period in which control of the market situation is regained).

14. Reduction in the age for retirement for women to 50 and for men to 55, or after 30 years’ employment in Poland for women and 35 years for men, regardless of age.

15. Conformity of old-age pensions and annuities with what has actually been paid in.

16. Improvements in the working conditions of the health service to insure full medical care for workers.

17. Assurances of a reasonable number of places in day-care centers and kindergartens for the children of working mothers.

18. Paid maternity leave for three years.

19. A decrease in the waiting period for apartments.

20. An increase in the commuter’s allowance to 100 złoty from 40, with a supplemental benefit on separation.

21. A day of rest on Saturday. Workers in the brigade system or round-the-clock jobs are to be compensated for the loss of free Saturdays with an increased leave or other paid time off.

gdansk.inyourpocket.com 57

Solidarity EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE The huge construction you can see next to the entrance to the Gdansk Shipyards is the impressive European Solidarity Centre which opened on August 30, 2014, the 34th anniversary of the signing of the August Accords. The 5-storey building, which has been designed to give the impression of walls cracking and tilting and is covered in rust-coloured sheet metal reminiscent of a ship’s hull, has been a project many years in the making. It was finally signed into life in 2005 on the 25th anniversary of the signing of the August Accords when a Founding Act was signed in Solidarity Square by 29 joint-signatories including EU Commission chief Jose Manuel Barroso, Polish President Aleksander Kwasniewski and Solidarity legend and former President Lech Walesa.

The centre quickly gained international recognition picking up the prestigious Council of Europe Museum prize for 2016 while it, the OHS Hall (Sala BHP), Gate No. 2, Solidarity Square (Plac Solidarności) and Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970 were awarded the European Heritage Label. The purpose of the Label is to mark those sites which ‘have played an important role in European history and culture and relate to the idea of uniting, as well as democratic and humanistic values of timeless significance.’

There are a number of aims to the centre. First and foremost it is designed to be a symbol of the victory of the Solidarity movement and the way that victory was achieved peacefully thanks to the power of people uniting in solidarity with each other. It is both definitions of this word that the centre’s organisers want to pay tribute to and to develop further. The proclamation issued by the jointsignatories in 2005 stated that they wanted the European Solidarity Centre to “become the world’s centre for the ideas of freedom, democracy and solidarity to be fostered”.

The building is centred around a permanent exhibition dedicated to the history of Solidarity and the opposition, which led to the democratic transformation of the countries of Central and Eastern Europe. But the exhibition forms just a part of the European Solidarity Centre’s daily function. The building features a library, reading rooms and archives which are completely accessible to researchers and any interested reader alike. The conference rooms and other spaces, such as the winter garden on the ground floor, host debates and concerts serving projects of both the ESC and outside associations aimed at working towards the common good.

attraction for the foreign visitor is the permanent exhibition spread over two floors, seven different halls and occupying 3,000m2. This is the one part of the centre for which you need a ticket. This permanent exhibition tells the story of Solidarity; where it began, how it grew and ultimately where it led the people of Poland and the occupied countries of the Communist Bloc. For those familiar with the highly-regarded Roads to Freedom (Drogi do Wolnosci) exhibition, this is its successor and aims to build upon its legacy and develop the story further. It combines traditional display methods with some truly impressive state-of-the-art technology which allows visitors access to authentic artefacts, 3D projections, photographs, film, declassified security service documents and interactive displays. Allow yourself 2 to 3 hours to view the exhibition comfortably.

ECS PERMANENT EXHIBITION The first hall (A) you will enter is called ‘The Birth of Solidarność and is devoted to the strikes of August 1980.

You’ll see the cab of crane operator Anna Walentynowicz, whose sacking close to her retirement created the spark that saw the shipyard rise up in protest. Authentic materials salvaged from the shipyard are used to tell the story with the former canteen table now supporting the interactive terminals and former workers helmets suspended over visitors’ heads onto which archive film is projected.

Moving into hall B, entitled ‘The Power of the Powerless’, you see the world that preceded the strikes of 1980 which give you an insight into the roots of the opposition movement and what the totalitarian regime looked and felt like. There are operational records from the security services and memories of the failed protests in 1970 which resulted in 45 deaths as they were ruthlessly crushed by security and military personnel.

Hall C brings you into the room dedicated to ‘Solidarność and Hope’. It’s here that you get a sense of the unexpected and unfamiliar freedom the strikes bought the country in August 1980 and the sixteen months that followed until the movement was outlawed and the country placed under Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Visitors are guided by a white and red trail which when reflected into the ceiling panel forms the legendary trade union’s logo.

A viewing terrace on the roof allows visitors to look out over the remains of the Lenin Shipyards where the Solidarity movement was born.

The building is free to enter and to move around – there are no scowling security men on the door. The major 58 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Walesa back on the truck

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

Solidarity Discover history and decide about the future

Ticket prices, information and booking: +48 58 772 41 12 | zwiedzanie@ecs.gda.pl | ecs.gda.pl/en Gdańsk / pl. Solidarności 1 | |

Next comes ‘The War with Society’ and you are graphically given a sense of how the freedom and hope of the sixteen months following August 1980 was systematically destroyed. The space narrows and visitors are ushered toward a Militia van with the riot shields of Zomo (the armed paramilitary police) pressing you deeper into the hall. The terror and dread of the Martial Law period are conveyed while you witness the activity in the underground Solidarity movement as they try to rally the people to stand firm and resist. This chapter of the exhibition ends with the award of the Nobel Peace Prize to Lech Walesa in 1983.

states emerged. As Lech Walesa later told President Barack Obama, “(the Poles) smashed the teeth of the Soviet bear and when he couldn’t bite anymore, the rest of the nations made their own freedom”. Visitors are invited to add their tickets to the stack of those who have visited before in a symbol of solidarity.

Hall E hosts ‘The Road to Democracy’ and demonstrates the important role played by Polish-born Pope John Paul II (the former Bishop of Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtyla). His messages of hope delivered during his pilgrimages to his homeland fuelled the struggle for freedom and inspired youth movements and society as a whole to renew their fight. The growing demands and the worsening economic crisis resulted in the governing regime agreeing to the Round Table talks in 1989. The subsequent partly-free elections saw Solidarity storm to victory and saw Poland become the first Communist Bloc country to win its freedom.

Excellent audio guides are available in Polish, English, French, German, Italian, Russian, Spanish, Swedish and the local Kashubian language. There is audio description for the visually impaired and sign language and loops for the hearing impaired. The entire space is designed to be accessible to all.

You’ll also find a gift shop, cafe, restaurant, a roof-top terrace where you can view the remains of the surrounding shipyards and relax and reflect on what is a very good portrayal of the Solidarity story indeed. Those with children should also find the Play Department interesting as well.

‘The triumph of Freedom’ in the final hall shows how the changes in Poland reverberated across the Communist Bloc as country after country rose up and demanded democracy. Countries were reborn and countless new

As well as visiting the exhibition you can also take a moment to visit the ‘Pope John Paul II Hall’ to reflect as you look out through the windows onto the Monument of the Fallen Shipyard Workers.

EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE QB‑1, Pl. Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 11, www.ecs.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Tue, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission to the permanent exhibition 20/15zł, family ticket 55zł. Play department 5zł per child per hour. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 59

Solidarity LECH WAŁĘSA Credited as the driving force behind the Solidarity movement, as well as the man who revived a postcommunist Poland, Lech Walesa remains, for many, the public face of Poland, as well as Gdańsk’s most famous resident.

Born on September 23, 1943 Walesa’s early life was largely anonymous. Working in his early days as a mechanic it was only in 1967 when he began work at Gdansk’s Lenin Shipyards that he began his rise to prominence. A keen trade unionist he frequently found himself in trouble with the authorities, and his political activities led to a stint in prison that ultimately cost him his job.

In 1980, with the shipyards on strike, an unemployed Walesa scaled a wall, gave an impromptu speech and found himself thrust into the spotlight as the accidental hero of the protests. Having successfully led negotiations for workers rights it was he who signed the August Accords of 1980. Ear-marked by the government as an undesirable influence he was immediately placed under arrest when martial law was announced in 1981. Released a year later, Walesa’s actions and those he represented were recognised in 1983 when he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.

As the figurehead of the Solidarity movement, and with the communist state crumbling, Walesa led roundtable talks with the government to formulate a power-sharing scheme. Partly free elections in 1989 led to blanket wins for Solidarity, signalling the last days of communism.

In 1990 he became Poland’s first democratically elected, post-communist president, a position he held until 1995. Respected and admired as an opposition leader, Walesa saw his popularity seriously wane while in power. Many Poles began to consider his blunt speaking, lack of English and often poor use of Polish as not befitting a head of state. He was famously quoted as having told the British Queen that the bed he had slept in at Buckingham Palace had been so big that he’d had difficulty finding his wife. Mr. Walesa and his wife have eight children.

Mr Walesa was voted out of office in 1995 beaten

by Aleksander Kwasniewski, who although being a former Communist, was seen as a better representative abroad. Many of Mr. Walesa’s generation accused him of having failed to deliver on many of his promises, having stolen the glory for the people’s revolution and even having worked for the secret services under communism. However in recent years Mr. Walesa’s popularity appears to have begun to grow again with a certain fondness for him becoming visible particularly from the younger generations.

Since his political retirement he spends his days often lecturing abroad speaking on subjects close to his heart: democracy, civil liberty and the free market.

View of the Shipyards from the ESC; BHP building in the right foreground.

WHAT TO SEE BHP BUILDING The BHP (the Health and Safety organisation building) hall in the shipyards is where the meetings during August 1980 strikes took place and where the landmark August Accords were signed. After modernisation it is possible to visit the hall which now houses a small exhibition entitled ‘Shipyard Solidarity’ which shows images from the period when the movement was at the height of its power as well as Communist era signs and Solidarity flags and banners. There is also a recreation of the long table where Government representatives and Solidarity leaders led by Lech Walesa signed the historic agreement. Today the hall is again used for discussions and conferences set against this historic backdrop.QC‑1, ul. Doki 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 308 42 24, www.salabhp.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.

HISTORICAL GATE #2 OF THE GDANSK SHIPYARD The #2 gate of the Gdansk Shipyards is where Lech Walesa stood to announce to the waiting crowds the deal that had been struck with the Communist government in 1980. The image of the gate decked in flowers and images of Pope John Paul II is one of the most enduring of that era and the gate has since been listed as an historical monument. Even today you’ll still see flowers placed here alongside the picture of the Pope. The gate was the scene of clashes in 2012 when the Lenin Shipyard name was put back over the entrance as part of the making of Andrzej Wajda’s film ‘Walesa’, when protestors covered it in red paint.QB‑1, ul. Doki 1, Gdańsk.

Historic Gate #2

60 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

Solidarity MONUMENT TO THE FALLEN SHIPYARD WORKERS OF 1970 Lying right outside famous gate no. 2 to the Gdansk Shipyards (formally the Lenin Shipyards) the monument was unveiled in 1980 to commemorate the events of 1970 when 45 people died during street riots protesting against the communist regime.

Along with wage demands and the right to form free trade unions, the right to erect this memorial was one of Solidarity’s main demands during the 1980 lock-in. The 42-metre, 139-tonne steel sculpture stands on the spot where the first three victims of the 1970 riots were killed.

There are three crosses to represent the three victims and the crosses themselves signify the suffering and sacrifice of all the protesters. At the top you see anchors signifying the men’s profession and in the lower reaches the figures of their struggling comrades are depicted.

Solidarity leader Lech Walesa referred to this enormous steel structure as “a harpoon driven through the body of a whale. No matter how hard the whale struggles, it can never get rid of it.” The monument is marked by a poignant inscription by Czesław Miłosz: ‘You who have harmed simple man, mocking him with your laughter, you kill him, someone else will be born, and your deeds and words will be written down’.QB‑1, Pl. Solidarności, Gdańsk.

MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS OF DECEMBER 1970 Designed by Ryszard Semka and unveiled on December 17, 1993, the Monument to the Victims of December 1970 is an impressive 25 metre cross commemorating the 18 people killed by security forces during the antigovernment shipyard protests which took place on the streets of Gdynia in that year. Among the names of the victims commemorated on the stones behind the cross, the youngest of whom was just 15 years of age, look for the name of Zbigniew Godlewski. The 18-year-old from Elblag worked at the Gdynia Shipyard and was shot by police. His body was famously carried through the streets of Gdynia on a door and he became the inspiration for the protest song Janek Wiśniewski. The inscription on the plinth reads ‘For those killed on the 17th December 1970 while marching in the hope of freedom for Poles in their homeland’QO‑3, Al. Piłsudskiego, Gdynia.

ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH The parish church of the Gdansk Shipyards, the parish at St. Bridget’s dates back to the late 14th century although the church was only rebuilt in 1973. The church and one of its priests, the controversial, anti-communist, Father Henryk Jankowski came to prominence during the Solidarity Strikes of 1980, when Fr. Jankowski become the movement’s chaplain. Father Jankowski was a vocal critic of the communist regime and a strong supporter of the strikers particularly during the strikes when he would hold mass each morning in the yards. The church is worth a visit due to a number of historical shrines, a spooky crypt and a quite remarkable altar.QC‑3, ul. Profesorska 17, Gdańsk, www. brygida.gdansk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 4zł.

JANEK WIŚNIEWSKI It was not by accident that the strikers of 1980 confronted the authorities not face-on but instead by locking themselves into the Lenin Shipyards. Lessons from unrest in 1970 had been learnt and the leaders of the strikes realised that public demonstrations were likely to be met with the full-force of the State’s security apparatus. This is exactly what had happened in Gdynia in December 1970 when shipyard workers from there (along with workers from Szczecin, Elblag and Gdansk) demonstrated against sudden price rises and food shortages. The authorities, conscious of the potential of a full-out workers’ revolt reacted by sending in armed units of army and militia who opened fire on the protesting workers. Exact numbers of dead and wounded are unclear but it is thought that over 40 people were killed in the wave of protests including one young man who would become known as Janek Wiśniewski.

Protestors carried Wiśniewski’s body through the streets of Gdynia on a door and this image was to become one of the most striking of the decades of unrest in Poland. The young man had been shot 3 times and his blood-stained body was to become a symbol representing all of the victims of this unrest.

The body was actually that of an 18-year old man named Zbigniew Godlewski from nearby Elblag who was employed in the shipyards in Gdynia. At the time the body was being carried through the streets people were still unclear as to his true identity and a local songwriter, Krzysztof Dowigałło, penned a ballad to this unknown victim whom he named with a common name - Janek Wiśniewski. The ballad became a popular protest song and the young man became a legend.

The body of the young man was originally buried in Gdansk Oliwa before his family managed to get it moved to his home-town of Elblag. After the fall of communism streets in both Gdynia and Gdansk were renamed after the fictional character of Janek Wiśniewski while streets in his hometown of Elblag and Zielona Gora, where he spent his childhood holidays, were renamed after the real person of Zbigniew Godlewski. The story of Wiśniewski was told in the 1981 film Man of Iron and the events are also retold in the 2011 film Czarny czwartek (Black Thursday).

The last verse of the Ballad of Janek Wiśniewski gives you an idea of the power of the ballad inspired by this young man from Elblag.

Don’t cry mothers, it wasn’t for naught There’s a flag with black ribbon over the shipyard For bread and freedom, and a new Poland Janek Wiśniewski fell gdansk.inyourpocket.com 61

Malbork

Make time to visit the incredible Malbork Castle. | Photo by Michał Pawłowicz

The small town of Malbork some 60km south of Gdańsk on the main railway line between Warsaw and the coast offers visitors not only the world’s biggest brick castle, but a number of other poignant and occasionally bizarre sights and sensations to boot. A delightful mix of medieval architecture, grey communist-era monstrosities and a handful of fascinating churches and monuments, Malbork is on closer inspection more than the sum of its UNESCO-listed fort. An improved range of accommodation possibilities and one or two better than average places to eat and drink make an overnight stay an attractive choice for those whose tourism philosophy extends beyond the indignity of spending a few hectic days hurtling around the country and being herded on and off a tour bus.

BY CAR Malbork can be reached easily in a car thanks to the nearby A1 highway which runs south from Gdansk passing

by Malbork on its way. If you are coming from Warsaw it is recommended that you head east out of the city following signs for the A2 autostrada to Lodz and Poznan.

Approximately 100km from Warsaw you should turn north onto the A1 towards Gdansk. Whichever way you approach from you should turn off onto route 22 which will bring you into the centre of Malbork in about 15 minutes. The castle will be on your left as you enter the town.

Alternatively you can hire a taxi to take you and bring you back. While considerably more expensive than the train, the cost is still not prohibitive to most western visitors especially if there are a few of you. To book a taxi from Gdansk, which will cost you a minimum of 200zł depending on waiting time, call Neptun Taxi on (+48) 58 511 15 55.

62 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

BY TRAIN Trains run regularly to Malbork from both the Tri-city and Warsaw. With both local and Intercity trains running to Malbork from the Tri-city it is worth spending the extra money to travel via Intercity or Express trains en-route to Warsaw and further south. The journey should take between 40 and 90 minutes depending on which part of the Tri-city you are travelling from. Be warned that Polish train stations carry the bare minimum number of signs informing you of the station you have reached so you should pay attention at stops to make sure you don’t miss yours. For more information see the excellent www.rozklad-pkp.pl. The train station is less than 1km northeast of the town centre which can be reached on foot in less than 10 minutes. Taxis are parked outside, and cost around 10zł.

TAXIS Malbork is a fairly compact town and the main street, Malbork Castle and the other sights worth seeing are all in walking distance of each other. If you decide to take a taxi these are companies that we can recommend.

TAXI MALBORK QA‑1, tel. (+48) 535 77 00 04.

TAXI (TRAIN STATION) QD‑2, tel. (+48) 55 272 33 20, www.taxi-malbork.pl.

Sightseeing in Malbork for many visitors IS the Castle but once you are done with the castle, it is worth giving the town a closer inspection. It reveals a number of other sights that despite being nowhere near as grand are both colourful and interesting.

Malbork HISTORY OF THE CASTLE

MALBORK CASTLE TODAY

The UNESCO-protected Malbork (Marienburg) Castle came to prominence in 1309 when the Teutonic Knights made it their military and political headquarters. The largest brick castle in the world, which at its height covered a total of 21 hectares, was the centrepiece in what was once a ring of 120 castles surrounding the Teutonic Knights’ territory.

The knights’ power began to wane with defeat at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410 and the castle became the property of the Polish crown in 1457 when unpaid knights seized it and sold it on. For the next three hundred years Malbork served as a Royal Residence, and became a stopover point for monarchs making the journey between Gdansk and Warsaw. This ended in 1772 when Poland was partitioned and Malbork fell under Prussian control. The castle was turned into a military barracks and a cotton workshop added to the Grand Masters Palace. For the next three decades old Malbork (now Marienburg again) took a hammering, with cloisters and windows bricked up, gateways enlarged and outhouses dismantled. That the castle survived further attempts at ‘modernization’ was thanks only to a protracted campaign by the citizens of Berlin. Spurred by this public outcry the Prussian state embarked on something of a U-turn, and a huge programme of restoration was undertaken. The results were impressive, and by the early 20th century much of the castle had regained its original look.

But the 20th century wasn’t kind to Malbork. On May 1, 1933 the swastika was raised over the castle, and for the next twelve years it was to become a favourite haunt of high-ranking Nazis. Plans were drafted to build an amphitheatre in the castle grounds, and it was in the Great Refectory that Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster made a landmark speech in 1939 announcing that the territories on the left bank of the Wisla were to be incorporated into the Reich. Malbork’s grandeur wasn’t lost on the Nazis, and for the next few years its imposing courtyards and halls were used for swearing in ceremonies by the Hitler Youth and League of German Girls. With the tide of war turning steps were taken to protect Malbork, and in 1944 all stained glass was painstakingly removed. Even still, Malbork and its castle were smashed as the Marienburg Task Force and 2nd Russian Strike Force faced off in 1945. Over half the castle was destroyed, and black and white pictures from the day show the castle as little more than a desolate set of ruins.

With no hope in sight the retreating Nazis dynamited the bridges spanning the Nogat, and the Siege of Malbork was lifted.

This all left Malbork in bad shape, with the brunt of the damage affecting the east side. Plundered by looters and abandoned by the state - who understandably had the unenvious task of rebuilding what was left of Poland Malbork fell into abject decline. Finally, on January 1,1961, the Malbork Castle Museum was founded and restoration work given the green light. It was a huge effort, but the meticulous restoration work was finally rewarded in 1997 when the castle was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Malbork Castle is one of the country’s most impressive historical sites and attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. Ongoing renovation is returning more of the castle to its original look and it is quite easy to spend a whole day here discovering each of the castles, viewing the various permanent and temporary exhibitions and relaxing in the grounds or one of the two on-site restaurants. A visit to the castle can be extremely rewarding but note that it involves a lot of walking and there are a number of narrow staircases which need to be negotiated. In addition to surplus of energy remember to bring a comfortable pair of walking shoes and a bottle of water, particularly on hot summer days.

Made up of three distinctly different ensembles known as the High Castle, Middle Castle and Outer Bailey and surrounded by a vast dry moat, the most impressive sights all lie within the High Castle, the Brethren Knights’ original monastery, and the Middle Castle which served as the centre of the Teutonic Knights’ political activity.

Among the jaw-droppingly awesome collection of buildings, impossible to miss are the 14th-century Palace of the Grand Masters, the original residence of the socalled Grand Master of the Teutonic Order. The vaulted interiors are marked by columns that fan out like palm trees, supposedly to remind the knights of their Palestinian roots, and it’s inside the main refectory you’ll find one such palm supporting an entire ceiling - a cannonball hole can be spotted on a nearby wall from when Polish soldiers tried to collapse the pillar. They missed by just the narrowest of margins, the result of their vandalism still in evidence.

Also to visit is the breathtaking St. Mary’s Church, the Grand Masters’ final resting place and the impressive courtyard in the centre of the Middle Castle. Many rooms are open to the public, including during the summer a wonderful recreation of the Castle’s mill hidden away in a garden in the southwest corner of the High Castle. In contrast to the spartan, simple style of the Grand Masters Chambers the rest of the castle is a trove of treasures, and includes an enormous collection of weaponry as well as an amber exhibition. Other rooms are devoted to the Teutonic life and feature the requisite collection of armour, flags and goblets.

Ticket prices come inclusive of a guide and you can either join one of the regularly departing groups or pick up one of the limited numbers of audioguides. Tickets, tours and information are all found in the modern Malbork Castle Museum building set just outside the walls on the southeast side or you can pre-order online.QG‑3, ul. Starościńska 1, tel. (+48) 55 647 09 02, www.zamek.malbork.pl. Castle open 10:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 min before closing.

Admission 29.50/20.50zł. Y

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Cafés

The beach garden at Młody Byron (p.66)

On a sunny day sitting in a garden and enjoying a coffee or a drink is a wonderful way to spend your time. Many cafe now offer some great food as well to go with the coffee and cakes.

BISTRO BY GOLDWASSER Gold it certainly is. Walk past the narrow room selling pralines and gift sets, and duck upstairs to find a posh cafe space primed for an afternoon sit-down - choose from great snack options, including a tasty gulaszowa. Very nice indeed, though the primary reason for visiting is the small list of old local liqueurs, the recipes for which were painstakingly researched and recreated by the owner, as well as some great wine including the house fave: Grauer Burgunder Blanc. German Chancellor Angela Merkel, clearly an avid IYP reader, choose Cafe Goldwasser to spend a relaxing time discussing business with, the then, Polish President Bronislaw Komorowski on a visit to the city.

QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 28/29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 90 12, www.goldwasser.pl. Open from April 09:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. B­S­W CAFE KAMIENICA Drink under the gables and gargoyles of Mariacka in this standout café/bar, a boho space set on two levels.

Consisting of strip-wood floors and arty loot this is a place not short on charm and, when the weather is warmer one of the biggest and best terraces in Gdańsk. Winter or summer, there are few more atmospheric places for a coffee or beer.QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 37/39, Gdańsk. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat ​11:00 - 23:00. B­6 64 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

CUKIERNIA DELICJE This is a bit of a legend in the Tri-city and harks back to a day when the only thing linking Gdynia and Seattle was a long-range ballistic missile. Opened at the end of the 1970s, Delicje built a reputation for turning out wonderful cakes at a time when small things like cake were valued even more in Poland than they are now – Poles like cake.

A marvel of classic 1970s design: the murals, carpets and white leather stools are all tasteless but strangely cool. Upstairs is a spacious café with plenty of seating on couches; downstairs is the bakery popular for its cakes, tarts and pastries.QO‑2, ul. 10 Lutego 27, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 73 37, www.delicje.com.pl. Open 09:00 19:00. T CYGANERIA This was at one-time Gdynia’s number one ‘bar noir’ and the name still conjures images of when it was a place student revolutionaries sat smoking and plotting revolution over the Commie government. While the national revolution took place at the end of the eighties, it took Cyganeria a quarter of a century to follow suit.

Today it is a warm and inviting space set on the ground floor of one of the city’s modernist apartment building which is shaped like an ocean liner and today’s Cyganeria offers a more remarkable menu than most cafes in town.

As day becomes evening it morphs into an inviting place for a glass of wine while you have your own whispered conversation.QO‑2, ul. 3 Maja 27, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 77 22. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

T­W

Cafés DRUKARNIA A smart café on the picturesque Mariacka street which is located in what was once a printing house (hence the name – Drukarnia means just that in English). The look is quite modern and industrial reflecting the premises’ previous incarnation though the reason to visit is the coffee which is excellent. Take a slice of one of their freshly made cakes as we did and you’ll be set up perfectly for your next leg of sightseeing.QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 36, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 08 70 64. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00. B­S­6­W KAVA A friendly cafe/bar/restaurant on the ground floor of a department store on Monte Cassino with a surprisingly good menu of food as well. There’s a choice of breakfast from early morning (until 13:00) and a concise but impressive selection of mains including tasty salads, pastas and more substantial mains prepared by a team of young chefs who clearly have both talent and imagination. Found on the side of the main street which catches the morning sun, the garden is perfect for watching the world go by over an early morning coffee (when weather permits). You’ll also find what are probably the largest screens in the city on which to watch the match.QN‑3, ul Bohaterow Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 503 09 76 20. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. B­W

KAWIARNIA FILMOWA W STARYM KADRZE A wonderful little cafe found in the shadow of St Mary’s Basilica. While the menu offers a wide range of teas, a choice of generously sized cups of coffee (unlike most) and brownies and szarlotka with ice cream it’s the place itself that gets our nod. For not only is it wonderfully atmospheric, with old family pictures making it feel like an old-time Gdanskian’s living room, it also has a totally unique gimmick. Tucked away in the back is a 17-seater cinema which shows films (check their Facebook page for info). The films are International rather than Polish meaning you, the foreign visitor, can watch most. Add to that the choice of locally produced beer and film themed shots and this place gets our vote as one of the most original cafes in town.QC‑4, ul. Grobla I 3/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 15 67, www.wstarymkadrze.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. W KINO KAMERALNE CAFE NEW A small cinema set in the cellars halfway along ul. Dluga.

This was once the site of the Kino Leningrad which was also home to the small, artsy Kino Kameralne. The building was demolished to make way for Hampton by Hilton hotel, but a new incarnation of the Kameralne cinema lives on in recognition of the buildings former purposes. In an age of multiplexes, this small screen with its adjacent bar and cafe and old-fashioned seating, is a pleasant throwback to cinemas of old. QB‑4, ul. Lektykarska 4, Gdansk, tel. (+48) 58 690 70 75, www.kinokameralnecafe.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00.

cafe and restaurant

More than just sweets!

ul. Długa 39 80-828 Gdańsk e-mail: info@lookiercafe.pl tel. + 48 514 925 939 www.lookiercafe.pl Open 8:00 - 22:00 Weekends open until last guest

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Cafés ICE CREAM

If you have a strong sweet tooth and ice cream is your particular favourite, buckle up: Poland will seem like paradise. It’s hard to walk more than half a block without seeing a sign – or better yet, a large fibreglass likeness – promoting soft serve ice cream cones or flavoured ice creams. Pay for the number of scoops you want and then run wild. Ices usually run for 3zł a scoop or 5 or 6zł per cone, depending on the size.

BACIO DI CAFFÈ A real favourite in Sopot. All the ice cream is made onsite and what makes it particularly recommendable are the flavours – the Pistachio is amazing while there are original flavours like gorgonzola which is surprisingly nice.QN‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 2/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 669 11 15 10. Open 11:00 - 19:00. B­S­6­W LODY TRADYCYJNE KWAŚNIAK Our favourite ice cream spot in the Wrzeszcz district and a popular place for families. The homemade ice cream is really good.QF‑4, ul. Wajdeloty 1/2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 791 24 21 31. Open 10:00 - 20:00. T­U­ 6­W PAULO GELATERIA Really good homemade ice cream made by a man, Paweł Petrykowski, who is reputedly the Polish Ice Cream Making Champion. Titles are all well and good, but the proof of the pudding, as our all our mothers used to say, is in the eating. The tastes are wonderful, with the chocolate Paulo probably the best chocolate ice cream we’ve ever tasted. You really can taste that their claim of only using natural ingredients and absolutely no additives is true, simply by the richness of the flavours. The flavours are another thing altogether and on various days have seen spinach and banana; walnut and pear and white chocolate with bacon (!!) as well as seasonal flavours such as strawberry made from local Kashubian strawberries. Wonderful.QB‑3, ul. Podwale Staromiejskie 96/97, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 794 60 54 00. Open 10:00 - 20:00. T­U­S­6­W 66 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

KOFEINA GDYNIA COFFEE HOUSE A fashionable two-storey café a block away from the main Swietojanska street which we really like for its cosy upstairs.

It’s a really comfortable place to relax with a cup of their coffee and something from their range of pastries, cakes, sandwiches and quiches. We even stop in here later on in the evening as it’s a good stop then for a glass of wine, though we sometimes wish it would stay open a bit later.

QO‑2, ul. Abrahama 41, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 728 30 82 95.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:0020:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. T­U­6­W KOTKA CAFE A cafe for those who love cats (and one to avoid for those that do not). Aside from good coffee and very nice homemade cake what you get in abundance is interaction with cats and for some, including most children we know, this makes this cafe their favourite in the entire Tri-city. We can’t admit to sharing this love but it is wonderful to see the younger members of our families so enthralled in the special play area. It’s recommended that parents call ahead to reserve a table if visiting with kids. If you’re visiting the nearby cathedral or park, this might add an additional treat to your day.QK‑4, ul. Stary Rynek Oliwski 19, Gdańsk Oliwa, tel. (+48) 574 45 35 04, www.kotkacafe.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

T­U­W LA CREMA D’ITALIA An Italian-owned and run café with found at the top of Monte Cassino with an excellent selection of coffee and tea, tasty and fresh cakes and there’s also a range of imported Italian produce available to buy as well.QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 14, Sopot, tel. (+48) 570 93 75 14. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. T­B­ 6­W LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT An extremely smart cafe on Gdansk’s main street recommendable for the concise but impressive menu of salads and light meals, not to mention an alcohol license as well. The ability to get something to eat that was tasty, light and well-priced would normally be enough of a draw for us, but there are two additional boons here. Firstly a good selection of breakfast sandwiches which is a pleasant change from the typical roll + cheese+ ham/salmon breakfast offering.

Secondly the cakes. Delicious.QC‑5, ul. Długa 39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 514 92 59 39, www.lookiercafe.pl.

Open 08:00 - 22:00. T­S­6­W MŁODY BYRON Located inside the historic Dworek Sierakowskich, this small cafe and bar has an intimate, modern feel, as well as an arty resident crowd appreciative of both the adjacent gallery and the weekend cultural happenings: poetry evenings, concerts, the whole shebang - take it all in with a glass of one of their locally brewed bottled beers. In warmer months the shaded garden out back with its deck chairs

Cafés scattered inside an area guarded by photos of old Sopot plays host to occasional open-air concerts while a gate to the adjacent playground makes it very parent-friendly.

QM‑3, ul. Czyżewskiego 12, Sopot, tel. (+48) 796 27 76 28, www.mlodybyron.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. T­E RETRO CAFE A stylish cafe in the shadow of St. Mary’s Basilica, the Retro should conjure up images of handsome and comfortable furniture with black and white prints of old Gdańsk, rather than the hippie-era collection of colourful plastic furniture you might be expecting. Here you’ll find a comprehensive range of tea, smoothies, chocolate and specially selected coffees along with their signature item - cakes. Find a delicious range of cheesecakes, tarts and vegan cakes which are all home baked using high quality ingredients.

The perfect place to take a break from sightseeing in the Old Town.QB‑4, ul. Piwna 5/6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 665 21 79 65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. T­6 SZTUKA WYBORU A great cafe in the main building at the heart of the Garnizon development in the Wrzeszcz district. There’s a trendy vibe to the place which as well as offering coffee, light meals and a bar is also home to a bookstore, design outlet and art gallery and the growing number of young professional Poles love it. We particularly like it on warmer days when you can sit outside on one of the deckchairs next to the pond.QF‑1, ul. J. Słowackiego 19, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 531 24 36 85, www.sztukawyboru.eu. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. T­U­6­W TEATR BOTO An extremely attractive café/bar and theatre set in a renovated building in a small square literally feet from the main street, Bohaterow Monte Cassino. Boto is a welcome change from new places of late and exudes more the traditional atmosphere of Sopot (artistic, independent) than the more boisterous and commercial atmosphere found on the main street these days. Downstairs is a comfortable and attractive café/bar and terrace while a theatre stage is located upstairs. Check our ‘What’s On’ chapter to see what, if anything, they are putting on that non-Poles might enjoy.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 54B, Sopot, tel. (+48) 600 46 46 19, www.boto. art.pl. Open 15:00 - 02:00. T­E­6­W Z INNEJ PARAFII The kind of place which makes you wish you hadn’t just binned the furniture from granny’s old flat but had hung onto it to sell to places like this. Creaking and rickety furniture apart this is a friendly little cafe on Targ Rybny.

Coffee, cake and breakfasts as well as light snacks light pierogi, as well as nalewki and regional craft beers make this worth a visit during the day to take a break away from the crowds. A side note, we liked the upbeat, guitary music they played.QD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 6A, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 505 84 02 43. Open 09:00 - 20:00. T­6­W

CHOCOLATE LOUNGES If there’s one universal truth about Poles it’s that they love their dessert. A lap past any ice cream parlour or bakery typically reveals long lines and hefty purchases (yet still the Poles stay impressively skinny. Unfair).

Evidence of this sugary fanaticism can be found in the long tradition of ‘chocolate lounges,’ cafes that are devoted to the cocoa-driven nectar in a way you thought only Hansel and Gretel could imagine.

MOUNT BLANC For those who know the best and won’t accept anything less. Bringing the joys of Belgian chocolate to Sopot are Mount Blanc, and their choice of pralines, cakes and desserts are simply second to none.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/5, Sopot, www. mountblanc.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 01:00. P­T­B­S­6­W PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY E. WEDEL Wedel is the oldest chocolate brand in the country.

The interiors are typical of an upmarket tearoom with a menu that wouldn’t be out of place in Willie Wonka’s Chocolate Factory.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 36/4, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 03 35, www. wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. T­U­S­ 6­W

DANZIG/GDAŃSK Anybody vaguely acquainted with history, or indeed heavy metal, will be familiar with the name of Danzig.

What you may not know is that Danzig and Gdańsk are one and the same. The Polish name, Gdańsk is actually the real McCoy, meaning ‘town located on the Gdania river’. The name Danzig came into usage during the 1300s after the city fell under the influence of the Germanic Teutonic Knights. Danzig came firmly under German control in 1871 as part of the Prussian Empire and would remain so until the end of WWI. After the war the majority of the towns inhabitants remained German, though the city fell under the jurisdiction of the League of Nations who baptized it ‘The Free City of Danzig’. This quasi state functioned until Hitler decided to seize it in the name of the fatherland, thus triggering WWII. The aftermath of the war saw much of the German population exiled westwards, and the city repopulated with Poles, themselves shifted west following the expansion of the Soviet Union. The city was renamed Gdańsk, and a program of heavy propaganda in the 1950s and 60s all but eradicated what remained of the towns German heritage. Today Gdańsk is a popular holiday spot with Germans keen to trace their roots, and you can still spot signs with German lettering in areas like Biskupia Górka. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 67

The Rebirth of Granary Island Some of the granaries had their own names with such colourful titles as Deo Gloria and Bear Dance. Some of these names lasted longer than the granaries themselves as by the 19th century warehousing had replaced some of the granaries but kept the historic names.

One of the most visible recent changes to this everchanging city can be seen right in the heart of the old town where following decades of decay, Granary Island (Polish Spichlerze, German Spicherstetten) is being brought back into public use thanks to a series of huge construction projects. 2019 will see the next phase of the development opened to the public.

First a bit of background. Granary Island was the centre of Danzig/Gdansk trade for centuries and a major source of the city’s historic wealth. The first building to be established on the island was a slaughterhouse in the first half of the 14th century close to the junction between ul. Chmielna and Podwale Przedmiejskie and these were joined over the next century by buildings such as Ash Manor (Polish Dwór Popielny; German Aschhof ) and Tar Manor (Polish: Dwór Smolny; German Teerhof ). Carpentry workshops, timber yards and quality control points for products such as hops, flak, hemp and tar grew up on the island as business developed.

In the early 16th century, increased exposure to attack and fire saw the construction of earth and wooden fortifications on the eastern side. These defences were supplemented by dog patrols earning them the name Dog Ramparts (Psi Wał) and were located near what is today ul. Motławska.

The New Motława canal was built in 1576 turning Granary Island into an actual island. By 1643 there were 315 granaries on the island capable of storing up to 250,000 tons of grain, servicing over 200 ships and which helped make Gdansk the largest harbour on the Baltic and one of Europe’s richest cities.

68 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

The island was virtually destroyed during WWII with just three of the buildings surviving. Of the three, Steffen, Deo Gloria and Wisłoujście, a building which had originally been called Blue Lamb (Polish Błękitny Baranek) date as far back as 1776.

Most of the island remained a skeletal set of brick remains, although various developments have so far seen 36 restored.

For years plans to restore the ruined granaries repeatedly stalled. Finally plans were accepted to develop the area and as we went to press work had progressed well converting the area into a hotel with 180 rooms, 560 apartments, underground parking, restaurants, retail outlets, offices and a square. The development will also see new bridges built including one linking the waterfront opposite close to the Crane.

Those who remember the skeletal remains of the granaries which stood largely untouched for 70 years following World War II, may remember a single, towering brick granary which was one of the few buildings on the island to survive relatively intact. That was the Deo Gloria and the neglect of the intervening years left it looking as a surviving broken tooth on the derelict island. It was difficult to imagine that it was even a survivor of the pre-war island such was its utilitarian appearance but it appears a chequered history was probably the reason it survived.

Granaries bearing the name Sola, Deo and Gloria (Glory to God Alone) can be traced to the 17th century but the building you see today was built in 1930 following a huge fire which claimed the life of one of the many Danzig firemen fighting it. The construction of the more sturdy and fire resilient Deo and Gloria granaries in the 1930s probably went some way to them surviving enough to be salvaged in the years following the war.

They now find themselves with new neighbours and the beautifully renovated building serves as the centrepiece of the Słony Spichlerz (Salty Granary) development. Słony Spichlerz will play host to what is being described as a Restaurant Market and will follow the popular concept of offering a wide choice of cuisines in the first food hall concept to be created in the city. Due to open in early 2019, the Słony Spichlerz - Restaurant Market will offer food right through the day beginning with breakfast and serving lunch, dinner and late night meals as the day goes on. Already pencilled in are BŁOGO Cakes & Sweets, CHWA MOMENT [breakfast & bowl], CZERWONY PIEC [pizza], DELIFISH Grill + Tapas [fish & seafood], GWAR [polish tapas & specialities], RAMEN & SUSHI by Mitsuro, BANGKUK by Thai Thai, SEXY BULL [beef burgers] and VEGEMADRE [vege & vegan].

Restaurants

Seafood Station (p.74) offers great seafood in Sopot

The choice of dining continues to improve and they really are some top-class restaurants around now with many offering a ridiculously good quality to price ratio if you are visiting from abroad. The figures in brackets denote the checked price of the cheapest and dearest main course on the menu. The opening hours we list are flexible in that these are the hours the venue has told us you can expect the chef to be working. If business is slow people will have no qualms about shutting early.

Service in general is not great (it’s often friendly but hopeless) so please reward polite, pleasant and efficient service to encourage others. Please note that with an everincreasing number of bars and restaurants the following is a list of places, which in our opinion are well worthy of our recommendation (to go to or to stay away from). For many more reviews check out our website at gdansk. inyourpocket.com.

In the meantime, here are some tips depending on what you’re looking for.

LOCAL Check out the local Gdansk cuisine in Kubicki (p.98) for a modern take on traditional local dishes. If it’s pierogi you want then try Mandu (p.95), while Polskie Smaki (p.99) is an excellent way to taste local Kashubian cuisine done very, very well. Szafarnia 10 (p.100) regularly gets great reviews, Fino (p. 82) is a popular newbie while Goldwasser (p.80) is one of our favourites with great food and a view over the river from their terrace. We’re by the sea so local also typically means fish. There’s a number of good places but our favourites are Targ Rybny (p.74), M15 (p. 74) and Magda Gessler’s Santo Porto (p.74).

70 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

CHEAP The legendary Bar Pod Rybą (p.106) does an excellent line in baked potatoes served with a wide choice of toppings while we love Naleśnikowo (p.106) for pancakes and crepes. Alternatively take a step back in time and eat in one of the ‘Milk Bars’ (p.94) where basic and very cheap food is served up in a pre-1989 atmosphere. It’s Tesoro Express (p.90) for the best pizza in Sopot while Gdynia is the cheapest place to eat in the Tri-city with great pizza at Czerwony Piec (p.90).

COUPLES Cyrano et Roxane (p.76) is good for low key trysts with an owner who will make you feel very important. Along the seafront is Bulaj (p.78) which serves excellent fish, among other dishes, in a wooden beach house among the sand dunes. On a pleasant evening a stroll back to town along the beach can feel very romantic. Not just for couples but Filharmonia (p.80) is one of the city’s standout restaurant both for food and wonderful views from their terrace. In Sopot check out Sztuczka Bistro (p.84) while Gdynia is also able to boast some of the best restaurants in all three cities and we really like Sztuczka (p.83).

SPLURGE Prices are still competitive compared to Scandinavia and Western Europe so nowhere is going to have you seeing stars. For a special occasion visit the city’s most impressive location at Sopot 737 L’Entre Villes (p.83) while the Art Deco (p.78) restaurant at the Sofitel Grand hotel is a memorable experience. In Gdansk you can enjoy a topclass meal in quiet surroundings at Mercato (p.99).

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

BURGERS

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available o Year-Round Garden

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN BILLY’S AMERICAN RESTAURANT Of all the burgers places in town this would win the award for appearance thanks to the 50s American diner decor, red bow tied waitstaff and window onto the sparkling kitchen.

A clearly designed menu including pictures and allergy warnings and cheerful waiters plus its waterfront location even had us thinking of the Miami Beach Johnny Rockets.

This is a great stop if only burgers, ribs, steaks and wings will do. You’ll also find them next to the entrance to the pier in Sopot.QD‑4, ul. Warzywnicza 10 A-E (entrance from ul.

Długie Pobrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 606 92 99 25, www. billys.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00.

(29-79zł). T­U­B­6­W HARD ROCK CAFE Gdansk’s Hard Rock Café sits proudly on the main square and its arrival has been well-received judging by the trade it’s doing. While the trusted menu of burgers, steaks, ribs, wings and cocktails is instantly familiar, the level of service is a welcome bonus and probably one of the reasons that it keeps drawing the visitors in (competitors take note). There’s a stage for live music (check FB for details) and a great terrace for people watching in the good weather. Finish up by making the local authority marketing people happy by purchasing a stack of HRC Gdansk t-shirts in the adjacent store.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (3095zł). T­U­B­6­W PUB CHARLIE First off, there’s live sports on the screens and secondly, some top notch American eats which are good enough to see this place landing a mention in our restaurant section.

A better burger you won’t find in Sopot, and this being a hotel bar you can also expect it to arrive promptly and without incident.QN‑2, ul. Haffnera 59 (Hotel Haffner), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 16, www.hotelhaffner.pl.

Open 15:00 - 24:00. (32-64zł). T­U­W

Surf Burger’s just one of many great burger joints in town

3 BURGER If it’s a simple burger we want this is the place to head to in Gdynia. A plush interior featuring lots of red fabric seems a bit out of sync with what is ultimately a snack joint but we’ll let them worry about the cleaning bills.

We meantime will definitely be re-visiting to try each of the handful of options on the menu, all of which look tasty. Our ‘Wild’ burger was delicious and best of all stayed intact until the last mouthful thanks to a bun that was a bit more solid than most. The chips, large chunks of potato with the skins still on, were a little tough but the quality of the burger buys them a pass on that.

QO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 61, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 782 02 12, www.3burger.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (14-49zł). T­V­W ORIGINAL BURGER No prizes for guessing that the stars of the menu are the burgers and the freshly prepared patties are cooked to order and come served on fresh buns with a choice of toppings. Closer to an American style burger than anything you’ll likely receive when ordering from a fast food window in Polska, the calorie hit is rounded off by crispy fries and onion rings. There are non-burger options too, such as salads and while the salad and fish on the adjacent table looked appetising there was no way we’d have swapped it for our Classic with cheese which was very good indeed. Un-town hall prices also mean you leave with a smile.QC‑5, ul. Długa 47/49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 306 77 63, www.originalburger. pl. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Thu 12:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:30 - 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 22:30. (19-27zł). S­6­W SURF BURGER The burger market is extremely competitive but this lot with their growing chain, small fleet of food trucks and too cool for school serving staff have been at the forefront of the sector’s development. Make your choice or burger, roll and sauce and let them do the rest. Very tasty food; great monthly specials; steak cut fries and an alcohol license. Happy days.QM‑4, ul. Kościuszki 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 883 22 30 50, www.surfburger.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (17-30zł). U­6­W gdansk.inyourpocket.com 71

Restaurants BREAKFAST

GOLDWASSER RESTAURANT A choice of 4 breakfasts - English (sausages, bacon, eggs, beans), Polish (scrambled eggs, cottage cheese), Fitness (granola, salmon sandwich, smoothie), French (croissant, honey, jam, cheese) all served with their own freshly baked bread.QC‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl.

Open 09:00 - 23:00, Breakfast is served from 09:00 12:00 everyday. (40-45zł). T­B LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT Three breakfast sets to choose from here. English breakfast (bacon, sausages, tomatoes, beans, fried eggs, mushrooms, toast), French (French toast, croissant, chocolate, homemade jam) and something they call Rajców, (Councillors’) breakfast (Frankfurter sausages, boiled eggs, homemade jam, cheese, ham, tomatoes).

Each set comes with tea.QC‑5, ul. Długa 39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 514 92 59 39, www.lookiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Breakfast served all day. All breakfasts 30zł. T­S­6­W KAVA A choice of breakfasts including some great scrambled eggs with fresh rolls, fried eggs with frankfurter sausages and bacon or rolls with a selection of tasty pastes. When the sun is shining this is a great spot for breakfast al fresco on the main street in Sopot.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 503 09 76 20. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 01:00, Breakfast served until 13:00. (20-23zł). B­W SEAFOOD STATION A choice of 4 breakfast sets ranging from a local Kaszebe breakfast featuring smoked mackarel paste, regional cheese and chives to the full English which includes 2 sausages, 2 bacon, beans, hash brown, tomatoes, mushrooms, black pudding and toast. They also offer a choice of three very tasty breakfast hot rolls including bacon, egg and cheese. Limitless coffee and tea refills as well for just an extra 5zł.QM‑4, ul.

Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 523 88 55, www. seafoodstation.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00. (24-42zł). T­U­6­W 72 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

TOM’S DINER There’s a lot in Tom’s Diner’s favour not least the fact that Hard Rock Café is over 20km away in Gdansk, so if it’s burgers and wings that you want and you’re in Gdynia this is the place for you. To be fair it’s pretty good and everything from the strips to the wings to the Bourbon burger to the NY Steak were quickly cleared from the respective plates.

Some of the décor might be a bit naff (who makes these Gasoline signs these days?) but if you want to see Mick Jagger’s jacket on the wall while you’re eating you have to pay more for your burger than you do here. QO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 47, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 380 09 11, www. tomsdiner.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.

(22-85zł). T­U­W WHISKEY ON THE ROCKS An extremely smart bar/restaurant in the Sopot Centrum development. There’s a strong Jack Daniel’s presence and the décor is a reflection of the brand – lots of blacks and browns, but don’t let that put you off. The food, in particular, is very good despite being a bit pricey by Sopot standards, and our ribs were finger-licking good. The rest of the menu is equally as appetising with steaks, burgers, chicken wings and the like and a well-stocked bar and comfortable seating make this worth seeking out. This place morphs into a great bar in the evening with live music on Fridays and Saturdays drawing the crowds and ramping up the atmosphere.QM‑4, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 691 98 82, www.whiskeyontherocks.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. (39-249zł). U­B­E­6­W

ASIAN BUDDHA LOUNGE The mix of Asian chefs in the kitchen make Buddha one of your best options for authentic Asian cuisine. Choose from a range of Asian dishes, including Indian and Nepalese cuisine while seated in a colourful and cosy room overlooking the main pedestrian street in the centre of the old town. A top summer garden, a professional and courteous staff and an adjacent late night cocktail bar keep this place constantly busy.QB‑4, ul. Długa 18/21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (19-69zł).

T­U­W NEON STREETFOOD BAR A very popular Gdynia spot offering Asian inspired ‘Street Food’ off-street as it were. There’s often no free seats, but the speed of the delivery and the size of the dishes mean you won’t be waiting long. On offer is a range of Bao buns with fillings like grilled chicken or marinated pork (vegan and vegetarian also available); homemade Kimchi and mains like chicken wings in chilli. We say mains, but that’s being generous and if you’re hungry we recommend ordering up two or three. In fact think of it as a bar with a decent range of cheap snacks and you won’t go wrong.

QO‑2, ul. Abrahama 39, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 730 63 00 00.

Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. (521zł). U­6­W

Restaurants PING PONG Another reason to stop by the Garnizon development is this cool Asian venue which offers a selection of wellprepared and tasty Far Eastern favourites such as Ramen, Bao (Chinese style filled rolls) and Pad Thai. The menu is a single sheet of A5 which you use as an order form using the pencil provided and acts as a nice gimmick. The real reason for visiting though is the food which is tasty and very handily priced and washed down with a choice of beer from Vietnam or Kashubia. The industrial look suggests it’s hip but that it was filled with three large family groups on our last visit and they, like us, seemed to be enjoying the work of the Chinese chef a lot.QF‑1, ul. Słowackiego 21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 607 60 92 05. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (2045zł). T­6

Go crazy about fish

CHINESE RESTAURACJA PAK CHOI A really rather good Chinese in a tiny venue a minute’s walk from the square in Sopot. The décor is elegant but not stuffy and the limited number of tables and above average prices suggest they’re going for quality over quantity. And that was borne out in the food. While the house specialty is a 70zl ‘compose your own wok dish’ we went for the traditional classics on the menu. The crispy duck with Szechuan sauce was really good and we’ll certainly aim to pre-order the Peking Duck 24 hours ahead next time now we know how well the rest of the menu is prepared. If it’s Chinese you crave while in the city, this is the best option for Chinese food enjoyed in the smartest surroundings.QN‑3, ul. Morska 4, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 718 20 10, www.restauracjapakchoi.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon. (1670zł). T­B­6­W

CZECH CESKY FILM There’s certain similarities to the non-Polish eye between Polish and Czech cuisine and this popular little tavern, set in an ugly block under a strip bar at the top of Monte Cassino, does the region proud.

The pork knuckle (Czech Pečené koleno or Golonka in Polish) is delicious with soft meat and extremely

ul. Tokarska 6, 80-888 Gdańsk (entrance from Długie Pobrzeże)

tel. 661 511 811 www.zafishowani.pl

good value while the Czech favourites of dumplings (knedliky) with goulash are done very well too and there’s lashings of Czech beer at very decent prices.

The name by the way, literally meaning Czech Film, is typically used in Polish to describe something surreal and incomprehensible.QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 17, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 716 16 16, www. czeskasopot.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. (21-45zł). T­6­W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

ul. Targ Rybny 6C, 80-838 Gdańsk, tel./fax +48 58 320 90 11, www.targrybny.pl gdansk.inyourpocket.com 73

Restaurants FISH BAR PRZYSTAŃ A legend for Poles visiting the coast, this place has built a reputation since it opened in the nineties operating out of a converted beach-side toilet block. Now you’ll find a huge villa overlooking the fishermen’s dock serving a long line of customers whatever the season. Certainly not as good or as cheap as it once was, this is still the place many people come to enjoy fish and chips, Polski style, and the fish soup here is our favourite. One tip. In summer the hut outside serves the fish soup, a selection of starters and the baked halibut with chips (but not chips by themselves) as well as drinks which can save you time queuing.QN‑5, Al. Wojska Polskiego 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 06 61, www.barprzystan.pl. Open 09:30 - 23:00. (15-50zł).

T­U­W LOBSTER At the heart of the Oliwa Business Centre is the Lobster restaurant, named no doubt in honour of the European and Canadian residents of its 1,000-litre homarium, which has developed a very good reputation for quality.

Expect to find such delights as Fine de Claire oysters, shrimp tempura, a surf and turf burger, lobster, scallops with adzuki beans, turbot, catfish as well as a fantastic beefsteak steak all served with fresh seasonal extras.QL‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 472, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 765 18 04, www.restauracjalobster.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (29-100zł).

T­S­6­W M15 You’ve lots of options along the beachfront in Sopot, but this is often our favourite thanks in no small part to the great playground adjacent to it on the beach (we’ve got kids). The main reason to visit is the work of awardwinning chef Adrian Gabryszak. While there’s great pizza, steak, burgers and tagliatelle it’s their fresh, locallysourced salt and freshwater fish prepared to traditional recipes with a modern Polish touch that mark it out. Also noteworthy is the number of vegan dishes on the menu.

QN‑3, ul. Mamuszki 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 720 82 78 27, www.m15.sopot.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 23:00. (22-78zł). T­U­6­W

A fine selection of seafood at Santo Porto Magda Gessler

74 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

SANTO PORTO MAGDA GESSLER Magda Gessler is Poland’s best-known restauranteur thanks to her roles Poland’s versions of Masterchef and Kitchen Nightmares. At her Santo Porto venture, the focus is on fish from the Baltic and imported from the Spanish provinces of Galicia and Asturia. It’s worth asking the waitstaff which fish they recommend each day and whether to have it steamed, grilled, fried or baked by the chefs you can see buzzing around in the open kitchen. The menu is first-class made even more enjoyable by very acceptable pricing.

Very recommendable and we’re definitely adding it to our list of places to take visiting guests.QO‑3, ul. Żołnierzy i Armii Wojska Polskiego 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 888 06 05 55, www.santoporto.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 21:00. (36-150zł). T­U­6 SEAFOOD STATION RESTAURANT There’s no shortage of fish restaurants so little touches like classic German Weck glassware, an open kitchen and choice of booth and high stool seating help create a great impression. We loved the British style fish & chips beautifully cooked in homemade batter and served with chunky chips, mushy peas and Sarsons Malt Vinegar. The herring starter, fish soup, grilled tuna steak and mussels enjoyed elsewhere on our table were also very good and this has already become a bit of a favourite. They really have an excellent choice of seafood including oysters, crab, lobster, rock lobster, shrimps and even octopus. You’ll also find them open for breakfast.QM‑4, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 523 88 55, www.seafoodstation.pl.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. (19-69zł). T­U­6­W TARG RYBNY - FISHMARKET Without doubt one of the better restaurants in the town.

This place is a visual delight from the moment you enter, with warm light wood furnishings topped with check blue tablecloths and model fishing boats. The seafood is the prime reason for visiting with the cod fillet in breadcrumbs, the oysters and the St James’ scallops all praiseworthy. But fishy offerings be damned, we’ve discovered one more reason to visit and that’s the lamb shank, nicely concluded with a nip of Danzig liquor made to ancient recipes.QC‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 6C, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 90 11, www. targrybny.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (40-200zł). B ZAFISHOWANI An attractive space overlooking the river and the Sołdek, the unusually named Zafishowani is another hotel inhouse restaurant that warrants a mention because of quality and location. The menu focuses on fish, though there are a fair number of non-aquatic dishes as well, with particular attention paid to those ingredients the head chef, Daniel Chrzanowski, can get fresh each day. While the whole menu is mouth-watering our tip is to ask the welltrained and friendly wait staff what they recommend on a daily basis in order to get the most out of the talents in the kitchen.QD‑4, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 661 51 18 11, www.zafishowani.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:30. (4089zł). T­U­6­W

Restaurants

LOBSTER

Restaurant al. Grunwaldzka 472, Gdańsk (Olivia Gate – entrance B) Tel. +48 58 765 18 04 restauracjalobster@wp.pl

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Restaurants BEER RESTAURANTS BROVARNIA If there’s a better beer in Poland we’d like to know about it, but not before we’ve finished road testing the menu.

Indeed, the microbrewery is just one reason to visit. The chow here is top drawer with excellent mains to go with your beer such as traditional Gdansk duck, pork knuckle in beer and a beer bites menu that includes a selection of flavoured lards - from spicy pepper to plum. The waitstaff are great at their jobs too spinning from table to table laden with beer jugs and plates of food. Head up the stairs to their “First Floor” restaurant for something more private.QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:30.

(49-89zł). T­U­E­6­W

Brovarnia, set in a modernised granary, never disappoints

BROWAR MIEJSKI SOPOT This has developed into probably the most popular eatery in Sopot, its menu of Polish staples and international favourites proving a successful combination alongside its four in-house brewed beers from which the Pils is our favourite. An excellent location with a terrace overlooking the church and Monciak don’t hurt either and while it might not be the most memorable dining experience you could have in Sopot, sometimes a decent enough family meal at a good price in the centre of town is all you really want isn’t it? QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 35, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 342 02 42, www. browarmiejskisopot.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (2040zł). T­U­B­W BROWAR PG4 A mightily impressive building plays host to a twofloored, 300-seater, microbrewery and restaurant.

There’s 4 homemade brews on offer including a Pils with the others regularly changing and all are brewed on-site in one of the 8 huge vats you’ll see.

There is a very decent menu including an excellent Golonka (pork thigh) and a rather novel range of beer cocktails too. QA‑3, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 668 21 56 08, www.pg4.pl.

Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. (28-88zł).

U­6­W 76 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

FRENCH A LA FRANÇAISE Mon dieu! This French-owned bistro, cafe and shop is a fantastic spot on the culinary map as much for its prices as for its wares. In Poland we’ve come to expect the word French next to a restaurant to equal ‘beaucoup d’argent’ but not here. The menu is a selection of extremely well-priced, very tasty salads, crepes and filled baguettes with soups and daily main course specials for the hungrier among you.

A great lunchtime stop, find it a little hidden away, across the river, 3 minutes walk from the Green Gate.QD‑5, ul.

Spichrzowa 24/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 765 11 12, www. alafrancaise.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00, From October closed on Mondays. (20-50zł). T­U­B­S­6­W CYRANO ET ROXANE A small nugget of France finds itself in Sopot in this tiny rail side cottage. Owned and run by Marc, a real-live native of Bergerac and his Polish wife Maria, this tiny treasure has an authentic tavern atmosphere, and wines hand-picked to compliment the nibbles and full mains on offer. Try, for instance, the cheese platter (also available to take away), or for something more considerable peruse the daily specials chalked up on the board or concise list of mains (check the latest menu on their website) whose number include a super duck which is slow-cooked over twelve hours and a delicious Crème brûlée. Amongst the regional specialities on offer the foie gras, reputedly made from the owner’s grandfather’s recipe, is a memorable pleasure.QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 660 75 95 94, www. cyrano-roxane.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (39-71zł). T­U

GEORGIAN OCNEBA Authentic Georgian cuisine courtesy of an authentic Georgian where you’ll find Czanachi (delicious lamb hotpot with potatoes, mushrooms, eggplant and paprika) and Chinkali, Georgia’s answer to the Polish pierogi. Very good.

QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 36/5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 26 32 25, www.ocneba.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00.

(22-62zł). T­B­S

GREEK TAVERNA ZANTE A very impressive looking and tasting range of Greek dishes with some good non-Greek options and a decent drinks menu featuring cocktails and Polish nalewki. We started off with the Mezedes, a board of delights which delivered feta, samosas, dips, roast beer and vegetables. The Kleftiko was a pot containing roast lamb, feta, potatoes and vegetables and was delicious while the very tasty Souvlaki was excellent value. Gdynia has always been the one place in the Tri-city to go for Greek food and this is another reason to take a trip ‘up north’.QO‑3, ul. Władysława IV 49A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 720 43 04 30. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60zł). T­6­W

Restaurants INDIAN INDIA EXPRESS NEW A tiny bar serving the classics of Indian restaurant cuisine just metres from Oliwa Park. Perfect for a filing snack, the tastes and colours offer very good value for money and the limited seating is often full of the local residents drawn by the authenticity offered by the Indian chefs in the kitchen downstairs. They regularly add new dishes to the menu and the fish pakora is just another reason to pay a visit if you’re in this part of town. QK‑5, Opata Jacka Rybińskiego 24/6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 888 83 75 92, www.indiaexpress-restaurant.business.site. Open 11:00 - 20:00. (20-32zł).

MASALA Don’t let the stained tablecloths put you off. Table manners go out of the window in Masala, a small Indian spot attached to the side of the Madison Mall, and you’ll find locals and foreigners alike scooping up their curries with thick, fluffy portions of naan. The chefs are imported from Delhi, though clearly enjoy working in Gdańsk - watch them chucking the spices in from behind the glass screen. Enjoy Indian, Thai and Chinese dishes from padded velvety sofas while Bollywood tunes keep the atmosphere authentic.QB‑2, ul.

Rajska 10 (Madison Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 690 80 40. Open 11:30 - 22:00. (19-46zł). U­S­W TANDOOR HOUSE We do like an Indian and we like spicy to mean spicy.

There’s clearly a Tandoor oven out back and the Chicken Tikka Masala, a yardstick for any Indian restaurant is very good. The Rogan Josh came with very tender lamb and an appropriately spicy sauce while the naans were delicious and put to good use wiping up the various sauces. Note that each main is priced to include either a naan or a portion of basmati rice so it remains good value. In case you’re wondering, the large picture on one wall is the monument of Bara Gumbad in the Lodhi Gardens in Delhi.QN‑3, ul.

Grunwaldzka 8-10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 508 57 57 56. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. (27-61zł). T­W

Cuisine, produce and atmosphere all 100% "a la française"or simply...French.

A LA FRANCAISE

ul. Spichrzowa 24/1 (entrance from Stągiewna), Gdańsk tel. +48 58 765 11 12 www.facebook.com/po.francusku

Cyrano et Roxane WINE BAR & RESTAURANT Wine and cuisine from the south of France

TANDOORI LOVE The people behind this Indian bar/restaurant have a good track record with places like Rucola and Tapas de Rucola and they’ve carried it over here. Good for a light meal with a selection of Indian dishes including an acceptable chicken Tikka Masala and a friendly and helpful staff (which shouldn’t be assumed in many Polish eateries).

If you’re used to eating in Indian restaurants you’ll like it but you’d be advised to order double portions.QN‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 41, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 72 07, www.tandoorilove.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (22-45zł).

T­S­W

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Ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, 81-704 Sopot Tel. +48 660 759 594, cyrano.roxane.pl@gmail.com www.cyrano-roxane.pl Open from 13.00 till 22.00

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Restaurants INTERNATIONAL ART DECO One of the most revered dining spaces in the north, and justly so. The menu, tinkered to suit the season, is never anything less than a top notch experience involving modern, adventurous even, takes on Polish and more global cuisine.

Wrapping it up nicely is the historic venue itself; impeccably elegant and with views of the pier, beach and bay.QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 61 71, www.sofitel-grandsopot.com. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 22:30. (58-89zł). T­U­B­W BEZ REZERWACJI A small, modern and friendly bistro close to St. Mary’s Basilica with the kind of menu that always has something to offer, whatever the time of day or weather outside. Fresh from a remodelling, this is a cosy place to enjoy beautifully presented international dishes served a bit of originality including a great burger and some really tasty vegan options too. Another option for breakfast too right in the heart of the old town.QB‑4, ul. Piwna 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 92. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 23:00. (17-37zł). U­B­S­6­W

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!

(Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 78 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

BULAJ The kind of place we keep re-reviewing for no other reason than we like it so much. The beachside location is idyllic at any time of the year (summer secluded and shaded, winter secluded and cosy) and the team in the kitchen are wellestablished and know what they are doing. The main man here is well-known and well-respected (and by us wellliked) and his name is often associated with wonderful fish dishes. But there’s more to Bulaj than fish though that’s what we recommend you try to order. It’s a little way along the beach from the centre of Sopot but make an evening of it and you’ll not regret it. As long as you’re enjoying yourselves, they’ll stay open.QN‑2, Al. Mamuszki 22, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 51 29, www.bulaj.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (19-99zł). T­U­B­6­W CHLEB I WINO The central theme here, as can be deduced from the name, is bread and wine. The bread is made in-house, as is the pasta and the wall of wine beautifully presented inside the very attractive interior, is comprehensive in choice. The aforementioned pasta was good (we tried the Tagliolini with shrimps, chorizo sausage and tomatoes) but special mention is reserved for the duck which arrived perfectly cooked and was very tasty.

QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 17, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 535 30 55 35, www.chlebiwino.eu. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (18-65zł).

T­S­W

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Restaurants

DANCING ANCHOR A stylish restaurant in a very impressive space with a huge open kitchen at its heart. You’ll be met by smart wait staff eager to make you comfortable getting you to choose from a very creative menu which specialises in large and small sharing plates and is based around three core ingredients – pork, chicken and seafood. On our last visit we took a stab at the Assiette of pork with mashed potato, black pudding, cauliflower (in two forms) and a vanilla sauce and found it very enjoyable and extremely good value.

We advise you to take advantage after 5pm when you can precede or follow your meal with a drink in the rooftop bar.

QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 563 50 40, www.dancinganchor.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (34-78zł).

T­U­W FIDEL GASTRO BAR This is a bar/restaurant with a casual atmosphere, a great list of cocktails and an even greater selection of Tapas and main dishes covering tuna steak, classic burgers and lighter bites like salads. The dishes are original, beautifully presented and even more beautifully priced with mains rarely topping the 35zł mark. It’s an attractive spot as well right on the square and the combination of the food, drinks and well-drilled staff see us giving this more than the occasional visit.QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 342 79 23, www.fidelbar.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon. (2579zł). T­U­B­6­W

ANTONI SUCHANEK ANTONI SUCHANEK MONUMENT Poland has a deep historical bond to the sea and in modern times nowhere has been more representative of the feelings the Poles have about the sea than Gdynia. When a re-born Polish state was awarded a narrow strip of coast at Versailles, the Polish General Jozef Haller and his men rode out to Puck, just north of Gdynia and performed a ceremony which was described as a wedding to the sea.

It should come as little surprise then that seascapists (artists who specialize in seascapes rather than landscapes) have been rather valued in Poland over the last century. One of those is Antoni Sucharek, who although born at the other end of the country in Rzeszow, spent most of his life in Polish Gdynia. Born in 1901, he studied at the Krakow Academy of Fine Arts under the tuition of Jozef Mehoffer. His work included images of the sea but also port and shipyard landscapes.

Following WWII he recorded the damage and rebuilding of the Polish shipyards along the coast.

He died in 1982 and a statue was erected near his home in Orlowo in 2009QP‑6, Skwer Antoniego Suchanka, Gdynia. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 79

Restaurants

FILHARMONIA What was once a municipal power plant is now an attractive waterside location for the Gdansk Philharmonic and features this restaurant with a fabulous menu combining the best Polish and Fusion cuisine has to offer with the latest molecular techniques in food science. In good weather take the chance to dine on the rooftop terrace, which comes with its own menu and is home to knock-dead views of Gdańsk’s steepled skyline.

Alternatively, head indoors to a breathtaking interior of red brick walls and theatrical murals. It’s recommended you make a reservation beforehand.QD‑3, ul.

Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 83 58, www. restauracjafilharmonia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (34129zł). T­U­S­W GOLDWASSER RESTAURANT One of our favourite places to take guests, this atmospheric riverside restaurant features dishes like duck, fresh fish and delicious homemade pierogi and bread along with locally produced beer served by multi-lingual service. Relax in the classic Gdansk interior or hit the garden the moment the sun appears to enjoy one of the best choices of properly prepared steak in the city. Souvenir hunters should keep an eye out for the traditional Danzig spirits which have been re-born under the German owner and the Goldwasser liquer box sets make for an excellent souvenir.QC‑4, ul.

Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (39-160zł).

T­B 80 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

HOTEL HAFFNER RESTAURANT Head inside the Haffner Hotel to find their inhouse restaurant manned by talented chef Michał Zawierzeniec. The menu offers a selection of tasty and well-priced Mediterranean and Polish dishes including a mushroom soup, pierogi with pulled lamb and a delicious cod fillet on black lentils. Keep an eye out for their Sunday brunch option too.QM‑3, ul. Haffnera 59 (Hotel Haffner), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 13, www.hotelhaffner.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (28-87zł).

P­T­U­B­W MAGIEL RESTAURANT For years, there’s been little reason to travel to the south side of the city, beyond ul. Podwale Przedmiejskie, but that’s starting to change and places like this are a big reason why. Magiel is a really attractive space, set in a new build overlooking the canal built to seal off Granary Island from the rest of the city. The chefs hold court in a central cooking area where they prepare some absolutely wonderful tasting dishes from a menu which is original but solid. Take for example the Fish & Chips - a tasty piece of cod served with red bean hummus, tomatoes and chilli. Delicious. Keep an eye out for the chef’s weekly specials and the live music on Thursday and Saturday evenings.QB‑6, ul.

Toruńska 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 90 52, www. restauracjamagiel.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30-80zł).

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Restaurants

RESTAURANT & APARTMENTS

ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk tel. +48 58 301 88 78 kamienica@goldwasser.pl

www.goldwasser.pl MEAT SHACK BBQ NEW Put simply, the most delicious ribs we have ever tasted. This sounds like one hell of a claim considering how often ribs, particularly pork ribs, appear on the menu of a restaurant in Poland, but we’re not exaggerating. Found out in old Wrzeszcz, the pull is the huge beech-fired American bbq oven performs the magic cooking the marinated and smoked meat slowly over more than twelve hours. There are beef as well as pork ribs and these come priced by the 100g and offered with sides of homemade baked beans. coleslaw, roasted potatoes, pickles and even mac & cheese.

QF‑4, ul. Ludwika Waryńskiego 26/27, Gdańsk. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon. MONDO DI VINEGRE Well worth a visit regardless of whether you plan to visit the Emigration Museum exhibition in the same building. The seasonal menu is concise and comes under the headings Seas & Oceans; Ponds & Lakes; Land & Islands; Sky (desserts) and Neverland (Kids menu). Feel free to pick and choose as we did which saw us presented with a spicy fish soup, shrimp in garlic and butter and one of the tastiest dishes we’ve tried in ages – a fluffy piece of cod baked in a light French pastry with aubergine and a caper vinaigrette. Views out over the harbour are a bonus and a trip here combined with a visit to the exhibition is absolutely recommended.

QP‑1, ul. Polska 1 (Emigration Museum), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 500 86 30 30, www.mondodivinegre.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (43-85zł). T­U­S­W

POMELO BISTRO TThe name roughly represents ‘Explore the local menu’ and this very good little bistro, on the quiet Ogarna street, serves up a concise but tasty choice of dishes using local ingredients. Our beef rib glazed with plum and served with mashed potato was very good in terms of taste, presentation and price. This is a bar as well with a young bartender who appears well-versed in preparing cocktails and hot infusions with the Pomelo fruit making regular appearances in the drinks. Worth mentioning also for their breakfast menu which is served at weekends from 09:00 - 13:45 - 13:45.QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 121/122, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 883 09 09 07. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (24-38zł). T­U­W PROLOGUE RESTAURANT & BAR Set in a rebuilt building on the quayside, this former shell stood for decades as a reminder of the destruction of WWII. Prologue is now an attractive eatery with a concise and regularly changing menu which has something for everyone. The daily specials marked up the blackboard next to the open kitchen demonstrate good food doesn’t need to be complicated. It has an excellent reputation and a strong following so do like we did and avoid disappointment by making a reservation.QD‑3, ul.

Grodzka 9, Gdańsk (entrance from ul. Warka), tel. (+48) 58 526 59 09, www.prologue.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 16:00, 17:00 - 22:00. (50-120zł). T­U­6­W gdansk.inyourpocket.com 81

Restaurants SCOTTISH GDANSK You may have noticed that Gdansk is the home of two suburbs named Nowe Szkoty (New Scotland) and Stary Szkoty (Old Scotland). There’s sound reasoning for this seemingly bizarre fixation with the home of tartan, as a scan through the history books reveals.

From the late 14th century onwards the Baltic region enjoyed strong trade links with Scotland. Religious tolerance, an escape from poverty and famine, and the promise of adventure and riches prompted many Scots to seek a future in Gdańsk.

Many arrived as traders, and the contribution of these men to both Polish and Scottish culture cannot be underestimated. Robert Gordon made a fortune through the Aberdeen-Danzig trade route, and donated some GBP 10,000 to the foundation of a hospital in his hometown. Four hundred years on the building still stands, now better known as the Robert Gordon University. William Forbes, also known under the colourful sobriquet of Danzig Willie, built the spectacular Craigievar Castle on the back of his trading profits. Sir Robert Skene’s generous investments helped elevate Aberdeen to becoming the largest granite quarry on earth.

By the 17th century Gdańsk was home to an estimated 30,000 Scots. A legion of peddlers emigrated from Scotland, travelling around Poland selling everything from shotguns to furs. To this day, the local Kashubian word for a business traveller is ‘szot’. Others joined military factions, and Gdańsk was the first town in Poland to have a regiment of Scottish mercenaries.

Though this particular band of men were hired to fight against the Polish army in a dispute over duties to the King, many Scottish soldiers went on to distinguish themselves in the name of the Polish crown, namely in campaigns against the Turks, Swedes and Russians; the brave Colonel Ketling is an important character in author Henryk Sienkiewciz’s famous Trilogy (With Fire and Sword, The Deluge and Sir Michael). The 16th century King Stefan Batory exclusively used Scottish merchants to provide for the army and Royal Court, while in the 17th century Alexander Chalmers became one of Warsaw’s best loved mayors.

Life was not always easy for the immigrants. A reputation for drunkenness led to numerous difficulties with the conservative local populace, and there were several vicious trade wars involving England, Scotland and Poland. Though the Scottish immigrants eventually became integrated into the Polish community, their legacy has been long lasting. In his History of Prussia Dr Schmidt noted that ‘the peculiar compound of stubbornness and shrewdness which characterises the people of East Prussia has its root in the natural disposition of the Scot’. It would appear that the Scots not only transformed the economic fortunes of Gdańsk, but the very character of the people.

82 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

RESTAURACJA FINO NEW A super bistro/restaurant serving delicious dishes with lots of originality and creativity which arrive beautifully presented by a professional staff. The prices are a little higher than in many of the neighbouring old town eateries but the results here are well-worth the extra and ultimately you are getting a level of quality which makes the final bill feel like a bargain. We availed of the 39zl, 2-course lunch menu (there’s a 3-course for 59zl) and enjoyed a truly delicious leek and potato cream soup poured into the bowl at the table over goose pastrami, marinated cherries and crispy bacon. The main was an equally impressive piece of fluffy cod served on an olive risotto, with compressed apples and a tasty sauce.

The place is rather small so we thoroughly recommend you make a reservation to ensure you enjoy a truly wonderful experience.QC‑4, ul. Grząska 1, Gdansk, tel. (+48) 789 39 90 82. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (34-67zł). U

Fino

RESTAURACJA GRAND CRU In a city which is not short of impressive spaces to eat, Grand Cru is worth a mention. Found in the beautifully remodelled cellars of the Grand Cru hotel, the building was a dilapidated former granary before a multi-million zloty refit. The results are very impressive and matched by the quality of the chef, staff and in particular the wine collection. On the menu you’ll find an excellent choice of dishes such as pike perch with a chanterelle sauce or prawns cooked in white wine with peppers and garlic, all of which are beautifully prepared and presented. To make the most of your experience, there’s a sommelier on hand to recommend one of their wide selection of wines. Keep an eye out also for their specials which are prepared based on what’s fresh and in season and those who enjoy American favourites like ribs, wings and the like should note their American menu available Thursday through Saturday.

QD‑3, ul. Rycerska 11/12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 73 03, www.qhotels.pl/grand-cru-gdansk. Open 07:00 11:00, 13:00 - 23:00. (39-69zł). T­U­S­6­W RESTAURACJA RITZ In Poland Basia Ritz is a pretty big name due in no small part to her victory in the Polish version of the Masterchef series. This venture sees Ms. Ritz personally (wo)manning the kitchen and the results are very impressive. We can personally recommend the liver starter which was

Restaurants

Al. Niepodległości 737, Sopot  Phone: 58 717 37 37  www.entrevilles.pl beautifully prepared (crisp on the outside, melt in the mouth inside) followed by delicious pork steaks, wrapped in bacon with a plum sauce, crispy vegetables and pureed potato, although the changing menu will impress whatever the season. By Polish standards the prices would be regarded as fairly high and the wait times longer than normal, but that reflects the quality of the ingredients and the care taken by the chef. Why not judge for yourselves.

QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 666 66 90 09, www.restauracja-ritz.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (59-159zł). T­U­6­W RESTAURACJA SZTUCZKA This small, secluded venue (it’s metres from the main street but easy to miss) is an excellent example of the originality that we’ve always admired Gdynia’s restaurant scene for. The cuisine is described as ‘Author’s Cuisine’ which in this case means beautifully presented and very tasty dishes which use lots of familiar ingredients but mix and present them in original ways. We could have ordered anything on the menu but plumped for caramelised chicken livers which was excellent. With over 200 wines to choose from and a tasting menu (consisting of 9 dishes) we dare you to find food this good at these prices if you’ve come from abroad. QO‑2, ul. Abrahama 40 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 24 94, www.sztuczka.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (52-82zł).

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ŚLIWKA W KOMPOT Plum in Compote (the Polish is taken from a phrase meaning to have walked into something without realising) is one of those places which always seems to be busy. There’s a good choice of meat dishes, burgers, pastas, seafood and salads featuring on a wider than usually safe menu but everything was well-prepared particularly considering we were in on a busy Sunday lunchtime. The décor makes it an attractive place to visit and if its lunch you’re searching for then this is well-worth considering. You’ll find them serving their ‘night menu’ of filled pizza dough rolls until the small hours if there’s demand.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 42, Sopot.

Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:30, Sat 11:00 - 04:30, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. (23-95zł). T­U­B­W SOPOT 737 L’ENTRE VILLES RESTAURANT A truly stunning venue with a menu and service to match.

Found in an early 20th century Sopot villa the place oozes class with a modern look that embraces the historic setting.

L’Entre Villes serves as a multi-functional venue with a bistro, glazed winter garden, bar, winiarnia and cigar room on the ground floor and a grand room on the first floor which can be adapted into a series of individual private rooms if required.

The reason for your visit is the quite excellent bistro which serves beautifully prepared modern Polish cuisine. Prices are higher than many Sopot restaurants but the all-round return for your money is excellent. Recommended.QM‑4, Al. Niepodległości 737, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 717 37 37, www. entrevilles.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (62-92zł). X­T­B­W gdansk.inyourpocket.com 83

Restaurants

We offer high quality at an affordable price

STACJA SOPOT If you want to see inside one of the splendid old villas which make Sopot such an attractive city, then Stacja Sopot is the place for you set in what was once, we are reliably informed, the owner and chef’s childhood home. The menu is concise and seasonal with great new creations added regularly. The menu on our last visit included a delicious duck soup, a tasty selection of pierogi offered both fried and boiled, and some tasty salads and more substantial mains. There’s also a decent wine list and some original homemade lemonades.

This is very enjoyable as much for the setting as the menu and the friendly staff, quiet location and Sopot character make this a thoroughly recommendable place, particularly for a lunch stop.QM‑4, ul. Jagiełły 3/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 508 78 52 88, www.stacjasopot. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon. (15-60zł).

T­6­W SZTUCZKA BISTRO This ‘Bistro’ version of Sztuczka (they have a highly-regarded restaurant in Gdynia) offers you the chance to enjoy beautifully prepared dishes in an informal but modern and attractive setting. There’s a regularly changing menu which is always absolutely delicious and this is probably the place that gets the most recommendations from us regardless of the event - quiet meal for two, business lunch, family celebration, where to experience Polish chefs at their best - it works for all of them. QN‑3, ul. Józefa Bema 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 354 58 66, www.sztuczkabistro.com. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.

(20-79zł). T­U­W TEKSTYLIA Tekstylia is a bit of a legend in Gdansk having originally set up in what had been a material (textile) store in an old Danzig-era shop front across the road. The current venue is an improvement with more space and a smart décor featuring plenty of sewing machines including a huge picture of one over the impressive bar. The menu gives you plenty of options and can best be described as international with a slight focus on modern Polish cooking.

The zurek (Polish Rye Soup) is very tasty, but we most of all enjoyed the wild boar rolled in bacon with sauerkraut and a side of mashed potato. The popularity of the former place has carried over with many of the locals quick to return and as the day moves on it becomes not just a great place for an evening meal but also a friendly bar. One of our favourite places, once again, in town. Note that the kitchen closes at 22:00 but the place is open until 23:30 during the week and midnight at weekends.QB‑4, ul. Szeroka 11/13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 77 63. Open 09:00 - 23:30. (24-45zł).

T­U­6­W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 84 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Restaurants VINEGRE Located on the top floor of the Naval Museum, enter via the museum entrance even if it looks closed during the evening and take the lift up to the third floor where the doors open onto an extremely attractive modern space with a large terrace, which despite its size still feels like a perfect spot for an intimate dinner. The menu is heavily influenced by the Mediterranean region and you’ll find a mouth-watering menu of tapas, salads, pastas, thin crust pizza, seafood and meat dishes. Professional and friendly service add extra points for one of our favourite places for entertaining visiting guestsQP‑2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 798 08 07 98, www.vinegre.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (38-89zł).

T­U­B­W ŻURAW A small and cosy restaurant cafe which sits directly next to the city’s landmark Crane overlooking the waterfront.

Despite its excellent location the prices of the pierogi, meat and in particular fish dishes are kept reasonable and this is not the tourist trap you might expect. A breakfast menu featuring eggs with extras like bacon or sausages makes this a notable place to start your day and their heated terrace allows you to sit out whatever the weather.QC‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 32, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 25 38. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (28-69zł).

B­S­6­W

Al Ponte Ristorante is an unusual and atmospheric place created from a passion for good Italian cuisine, wine and leisurely feasting.

Located in the neighborhood of Old Town Gdansk, patrons can enjoy the beautiful view of the Motlawa River while enjoying live music preformed by local artists.

ITALIAN ALLORA Italian-owned and run right down to the waitstaff, this is very good and best of all, it’s a 10-minute walk from the main street meaning you can relax in a bit of peace and quiet away from the crowds. We like it all from the soups to the pasta and the pizza. The place itself is bright and comfortable and the shady street seating a great place to sit back with a wine or cocktail while the weather lasts.

Really worth checking out for an inexpensive and relaxed lunch or afternoon break.QC‑4, ul. Grobla III, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 508 92 94 96. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (15-80zł). T­U­6­W AL PONTE RISTORANTE NEW An Italian owned and run ristorante unsurprisingly found right next to the modern bridge linking the Olowianka island to the main town. The menu features lots of the Venetian chef’s local cuisine with lots of homemade touches to add extra authenticity. The Spaghetti Alla Scogliera came was very tasty with a generous amount of seafood while the Neapolitan-style pizza comes prepared in an oven imported from the city itself. Regular live music helps to make for an enjoyable evening in the attractive cellar and when the weather’s good, the view from the terrace is an added bonus.QD‑3, ul. Grodzka 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 04 51, www.alponte.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (32-58zł). U­B­E­S­ 6­W

ul. Grodzka 10, Gdańsk biuro@alpontegdansk.eu tel.: + 48 58 351 04 51 www.alpontegdansk.eu

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Restaurants CASA CUBEDDU Having built an excellent reputation and a large and loyal following at his ristorante in Sopot, Tesoro, Chef Domenico Cubeddu has expanded into these beautiful premises right on the border between Sopot and Gdynia. The regular and weekly menus are a mouth-watering collection of Italian favourites and dishes influenced by the chef’s Abruzzo home such as the delicious seafood and the Lasagna Casa Cubeddu. With Pino, the man behind Tesoro Express, making the pizza you know they’re going to be delicious too. The setting, with its terrace and gardens, is perfect for private functions and special events, so make note but also watch out. The place can get very busy.Qul. Spółdzielcza 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 796 60 00 69, www.casacubeddu. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (19-48zł).

T­U­E­W

Dolce Vita is a boutique delicatessen with bar serving sweet and dry Mediterranean specialities. The choice of delicacies ranges from foie gras to vegan ice cream.

Great wine and coffee too.

Boutique Delicatessen Dolce Vita Sopot Centrum, ul. Dworcowa 7 tel.: +48 58 3413123 mail: butik@dolcevita.pl www.facebook.com/dolcevitaslodkoiwytrawnie

BOSCO SOPOT REST&WINE Overlooking the square Bosco delivers beautifully presented, but more importantly, very tasty Italian cuisine. The pizzas are very good though we typically forego those for one of the pasta dishes - our particular favourite is the seafood pasta. The wine collection is very good and each dish comes with a recommendation for a wine to compliment the food. The large terrace is an excellent place to sit back and relax to watch the street entertainment and is a beautiful shady spot on a sunny day.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 80 25, www.boscosopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-87zł).

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86 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

DOLCE VITA A very impressive looking delicatessen, café and bar with, by Tri-city standards at least, a wide selection of Mediterranean produce such as olive oil, pasta, dairy products, fish and of course coffee and wine. It’s not just a great place to stop off and stock up (it’s handily located close to Sopot station) but it’s a smart place just to stop in and relax over a coffee or ice cream after you’ve perused their wares.QM‑3, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 31 23. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (2040zł). T­U­6­W MACHINA EATS & BEATS A beautiful venue, worth a visit both for a quiet lunch or later on in the day where it morphs into a relaxed live music venue. The concept is very simple. You get a paper menu and a pencil which you use to construct your own pasta dish by choosing from a wide selection of pastas, a sauce and as many extras as you wish. The results are very, very good particularly when accompanied by a glass or more of one of their hand-picked wines. The place is a family effort with the two daughters preparing the bread and desserts; the mother (an experienced and well-regarded chef ) preparing the pasta and the father playing the music. This is a super little find.QC‑5, ul. Chlebnicka 13/16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 40 67. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (13-50zł). T­E­6­W

Restaurants

Amazing restobar in the heart of Gdańsk

100% homemade Pasta, bread & others machinaeats.pl

Eat like a local.

Drink like a local

PASTA MIASTA Having built a strong reputation with their pizza place over in Starowiejska, the Czerwony Piec people then branched out into pasta. The pasta is made in house (see the man making it as you walk in) and the menu has a good choice of delicious dishes, meaning that they’ve quickly build another loyal following. A smart space with a great garden out back make this one of our favourite casual dining spots in town. The antipasti starter is great value for 23zł.QO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 46, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 786 12 11 00, www.pastamiasta. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-32zł).

T­U­6­W PESCATORE Set in a smashing looking building which houses the Sopot Marriott hotel there’s more to it than looks. There’s an Italian restaurant on the first floor which combines good Italian cooking with a stylish restaurant that doesn’t feel like a typical hotel dining room. This is more upmarket than other Italian restaurants in the city but our duck ensured a return visit while our partner’s baked bream and green vegetable risotto also met with approval. Prices are higher than in other Italian eateries but this is definitely a case of getting what you pay for.QN‑5, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59 (Sopot Marriott Resort & Spa), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 22, www.sopotmarriott.com. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. (35-80zł).

T­U­B­W

Gdańsk, ul. Chlebnicka 13/16 Tel. 58 717 40 67

MODERN HEROES Unveiled in 2012 in the Ronald Reagan park in the Przymorze district of Gdansk is a statue showing two of anti-Communism’s most high profile figures walking side by side in conversation. The statue shows how importantly Poles view these two men in their modern history. When Karol Wojtyla became Pope John Paul II in 1978, he visited his homeland and preached 32 sermons in 9 days creating what was described as a ‘psychological earthquake’.

Always calling for compromise not conflict the Pope is recognised as having blown new life into the struggle when he came to Gdansk in 1987. Reagan on the other hand is the US President who very visibly lent the Polish people his support, famously leaving a lit candle in the window of the White House at Christmas 1981, just after the communist regime had implemented Martial Law. His strong opposition to communism and combative tactics combined with the Pope’s gentle but firm diplomacy are seen by Poles as key to communism collapsing. The metal figures, which are both literally larger than life at over 2 metres tall, were conceived and funded by donations to the “Godność” (Dignity) Association and are modelled on a famous photograph taken by Scott Stewart of the Associated Press when the Pope and President Reagan met in Miami in 1987. The engraving in Polish reads ‘Grateful for the independence of Poles’. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 87

Restaurants In Ristorante La Cucina you'll find authentic Italian cuisine, wine and dessert, all in a warm atmosphere that feels like home.

One out of the BEST Restaurants in Gdańsk according to the 2018 Gault & Millau restaurant guide.

Ristorante La Cucina, ul.Tandeta 1 lok.77 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), tel. +48 58 573 34 44 www.lacucina.pl www.facebook.com/lacucinagdansk Open: Mon - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00 See our restaurants on Google Street View and Google Maps - Menu languages

RISTORANTE CON GIARDINO NEW A cosy Italian owned and run restaurant in the Oliwa district.

The garden in the name no doubts refers to stone terraced yard out the back which must be a super spot in the warmer months but the main reason to visit is the food. The menu is a mix of dishes with Italian and Mediterranean roots and we found the fish soup and seafood risotto with white wine delicious.

The linguine with shrimps and chilli was also very tasty while the selection and quality of the pizzas kept the younger ones happy as did the homemade sorbet to finish. One for your list if you’re visiting the park, cathedral or zoo.QI‑5, ul. Józefa Czyżewskiego 20, tel. (+48) 663 20 04 54, www.congiardino. pl. Open 07:30 - 21:00. (14-50). T­6­W RISTORANTE LA CUCINA La Cucina delivers good renditions of Italian classics in a light, bright space. Italian cuisine is done best, in our book at least, when it’s done simply and that is what we like about La Cucina.

The pasta was cooked well and the accompanying sauce was tasty while the salad was fresh and not overdressed as can often be the problem. Prices are fair; the setting relaxed and perfect for a quiet meal without any unnecessary formality while the staff, by local standards at least, is friendly and efficient. They take the service that little bit further by bothering to provide the menu in the languages of their largest customer groups good news if you speak English, German or Norwegian.QC‑4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 44, www.lacucina.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (23-65zł). T­U­W 88 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

RISTORANTE SEMPRE Sempre occupy of the city’s landmark villas which once housed one of the country’s most famous clubs and it’s a really ‘Sopot’ spot in which to enjoy their good pizza.

Realistic pricing, particularly on the house wines and the wonderful location (especially in the warmer months when they open the best garden in any restaurant in Sopot) make it a popular spot. Also at ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 49, Sopot (M-3); ul. Długa 6/7/8, Gdańsk (B-4), ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk (D-3) and ul. Starowiejska 30, Gdynia.QN‑4, ul.

Grunwaldzka 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 91 78, www. semprepizza.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00. (20-40zł). T­6­W

Delicious fish soup at Ristorante Con Giardino

Restaurants SAN MARCO A friendly Italian eatery on the main street in Gdansk which these days is under the direction of a team of Italian chefs but looks and feels like a traditional Gdansk restaurant with lots of wooden furniture, exposed brickwork and even some old-fashioned costumes. There’s a full Italian menu on offer including pastas, meat dishes and salads but the reason to visit is the authentic pizza prepared by the cheerful staff. We like the Calabrese but you might want to try the Robert Lewandowski pizza, named after the Polish footballer who ordered it when he ate here (tomato, mozzarella, Parma ham, rocket salad and parmesan in case you’re wondering).QB‑4, ul. Długa 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 515 37 00 38, www.sanmarcoristorante. pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (24-70zł). T­U­B­E­6­W SAPORE RESTAURANT A two-level Italian restaurant just metres from the main drag, which is in a word excellent. Everything is delicious – the pizza had a tasty thin crust with a perfect blend of toppings; the pasta was lightly oiled and cooked to perfection with seafood and the obligatory lasagne tasting was nowhere near as boring as it often tends to be. The wonderful English-speaking waitress demonstrated how much better a dining experience can be when there’s a smiling, professional server and the proverbial cherry was the Tiramisu.QB‑4, ul.Tkacka 27/28, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 502 43 71 11, www.sapore.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (14-60zł). T­U­W

‘MONCIAK’ One may wonder why Sopot’s main street, Bohaterów Monte Cassino (The Heroes of Monte Cassino), carries the name of an Italian town. The truth is that it commemorates one of the proudest achievements in modern Polish military history. In 1943 the Allies, after a successful invasion of Sicily, moved to the continent. It seemed nothing could stop them until they approached a mountain range on the way to Rome. The area was occupied by the Germans defending what was called the Gustav Line, at the heart of which lay Monte Cassino.

The battle that followed was actually a series of four intense battles which took place between January 20 and May 18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino. Involving British, US, French, North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish troops, fierce fighting raged against the Germans on a slow and brutal advance towards the monastery. At a cost of over 25,000 lives the final battle ended on the morning of May 18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish 12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally fought their way through to the completely devastated monastery. The Battle of Monte Cassino was won, the Gustav Line broken and the Allied advance on Rome continued. Today it is one of Poland’s most famous streets, and fondly known as Monciak to the locals.

Ristorante con Giardino ul. Czyżewskiego 20, Gdańsk tel. +48 663 200 454 kontakt@congiardino.pl Open: 07:30 - 21:00 gdansk.inyourpocket.com 89

Restaurants PIZZA

San Marco Ristorante Sunny Italy right next to the Golden Gate

San Marco Ristorante ul. Długa 4, 80-827 Gdańsk tel. +48 515 370 038 e-mail: kontakt@sanmarcoristorante.pl www.SanMarcoRistorante.pl fb: SanMarcoGdansk 90 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Tesoro Express is our favourite pizza bar in Sopot

CZERWONY PIEC An excellent and very popular spot that doesn’t just serve excellent pizza and panini but also allows you to learn two more words of Polish. The Red Oven, is a smart two-floored restaurant with a strong local following, great pizza (we love the spicy salami), street seating and bottles of chilli olive oil on the tables to add a bit of extra spice. The other thing we like is that despite having beer on sale themselves, they are not at all precious about you bringing in a glass of the Ale Browar beer from next door which has seen these two neighbours become very popular together. Good job everyone.QO‑2, ul. Starowiejska 40C, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 730 53 13 14, www.czerwonypiec.pl.

Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-27zł).

T­6­W SEMPRE PIZZA E VINO A classy little venue with friendly staff on the quayside at the reawakened Fish Market end of town. Where once there was nothing, you’ll now find a selection of the city’s best restaurants in the shadow of one of the city’s best hotels. Sempre have got the pizza covered and you’ll find freshly made Italian style pizza prepared in proper pizza ovens in a jiffy. Although this is quick food, it is a galaxy away from the fast food Targ Rybny has been traditionally associated with and is a sign of the area’s upward mobility. Also at B-4, ul. Długa 6/7/8.QD‑3, ul.

Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 719 19 19, www.semprepizza.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (22-41zł). T­W TESORO EXPRESS An excellent Italian owned pizza parlour, where your pizza is accompanied by imported Italian soft drinks, wines, and more often than not a little song from one of the Italian chefs.QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 531 04 40 04, www.restauracjatesoro.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (19-39zł). T­B­V­W

Restaurants SERIO The first thing that struck us was how polite and professional the staff were when we walked in. It didn’t end there. The décor of exposed brick and lots of wood makes it very cosy while the menu is concise with the antipasti, primi and secondi dishes all demanding due diligence. But we came for the pizza, prepared in a specially built oven imported from Naples. Those expecting the heavy topping of a Pizza Hut style pie might be a little disappointed on first sight but don’t be. Our Salsiccia with home-made sausage was wonderful and surprisingly spicy while the homemade lemonade and dessert made for a great experience.

And all for less than 10 Euros.QO‑2, ul. 3 Maja 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 534 58 83 88. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12-49zł). T­U­B­S­6­W TESORO Italian owned and run Tesoro is an Italian restaurant which has built a stellar reputation among locals and celebs and which is always busy. We’re not going to go over the top about the food because, while we love it, we know others that can’t understand its continued popularity. We love the pizza here and the atmosphere is also welcoming and friendly despite it being so busy.QN‑5, ul. Polna 70, Sopot, tel. (+48) 793 34 44 97, www.restauracjatesoro. pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (25-85zł). T­U­B­W TRATTORIA LA CANTINA Poles seem to have a long standing relationship with Italy (the country even gets a mention in the Poles’ national anthem).

In recent years more and more new Italian ventures have been Italian run and owned and this bright little trattoria is a great example. For a place found well off the tourist path it takes an extra effort to make the cut for the print version of the guide and the fact it made it should tell you a lot. Our Gnoochi alla Bolognese was very good although a glance at the neighbouring table’s pizza made us wonder if we should have ordered one of those as well. Whatever you choose from the pizza, pasta, fish or meat dishes you can expect authentic Italian cuisine based on simple but tasty recipes with fresh ingredients.Qul. Dębinki 7D/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 342 42 90, www.trattorialacantina.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (17-75zł). T­W

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).

As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.

Traditional Italian restaurant run with passion by Italian owners.

ul. Polna 70, Sopot tel. +48 793 344 497 www.restauracjatesoro.pl Create your own pasta dish at Machina Eats & Beats

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Restaurants GOLDWASSER

No visit to Gdańsk is complete without sampling the local fire water, Goldwasser vodka. Created by Ambrose Vermollen, a Dutch migrant living in Gdańsk, the first recorded mention of it dates to 1598, though it would be years later that Vermollen would open the first recorded distillery, Der Lachs (The Salmon) on ul. Szeroka. His recipe combined over 20 herbs and roots, including cardamom, coriander, juniper, cinnamon, wild orange, lavender, cloves and thyme. A clever marketing trick that was all about appearance and nothing to do with taste, 23 carat gold leaves were added for luck, and the recipe has since been passed down the generations, its current owner being the German Carl Graf von Hardenberg.

Of course, local legend is far more interesting, and if you believe urban myth the gold flakes appeared after Neptune grew increasingly irritated that the natives were clogging up his fountain by repeatedly throwing coins into it. Driven to despair the irked God launched his trident into the fountain, shattering the coins into millions of pieces. This, according to some, is why you’ll find gold pieces floating around in your bottle of Goldwasser. Story number two paints a different picture.

Apparently Neptune was delighted by the natives’ habit of throwing coins into his fountain, and decided to reward their generosity by turning the water into a tasty alcoholic beverage. Good man. Free-loading landlords carted the booze off by the barrel, all apart from the do-gooding owner of Pod Łososiem (The Polish for Der Lachs). In return for his honesty, Neptune transformed his stock of ordinary vodka into Goldwasser.

Packing an alcohol content of 40%, Goldwasser’s rich, syrupy taste saw it gain popularity with Louis XIV and Imperial Russia’s Catherine the Great among its fans.

Lovers of this story and the drink will be delighted to know that the Salmon (Der Lachs) is still around and now trades as the exclusive Pod Łososiem restaurant where you can get the original von Hardenberg Goldwasser imported from Germany. Also keep your eye out for the German owned Goldwasser restaurant on the waterfront which has specially produced gift sets available to buy. On a final note it is also said that the gold content of Goldwasser is useful in the treatment of back and joint conditions although it is unlikely that this was one of its goals 400 years ago.

92 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

JAPANESE 77 SUSHI Sushi 77 could well refer to the number of restaurants this group have around Poland. We’re losing count, in fact, and while some would be wary of any chain outfit these guys keep getting it right. Set amid a row of ivy covered quayside dwellings it certainly looks the part, and better still they also deliver on the food front. There is a wide choice of sushi, including some great set offer as well as some tasty hot dishes on the menu. They also win points for being less awkwardly formal than many sushi restaurants you’ll find outside of Poland. QC‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 30, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 18 23, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-60zł). T­W HASHI SUSHI A really smart looking sushi restaurant in the Sopot Centrum for those who want either something spicy or something fishy before heading for the train. This is actually way above what you might expect to find in a Polish railway station (they were recognised by Gault & Millau as one of Poland’s top 100 restaurants in 2017) and is actually a destination in itself, such is the standard of food and the fact it’s surrounded by other bars and restaurants in Sopot’s new Sopot Centrum. Worth a look. Also find them at ul. Przebendowskich 38, Gdynia and al. Rzeczpospolitej 4/149, Gdansk.QM‑4, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 37 37, www.hashisushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22-63zł). T­U­B­S­6­W MITO SUSHI A street that is on the up finds itself with arguably the city’s best Sushi in Mito. After years of watching one sushi restaurant after another open in the Tri-city, we’d rather lost interest, but a visit to Mito sparked it again. Tastefully decorated. Friendly staff. Good location. Play area for the kids. The major draw though is the Sushi, expertly made, in a huge range of choices with some hot dishes also available. Slightly pricier than others on the market but well worth it.QC‑4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 57 64, www.mitosushi.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-59zł). T­U­W MOSHI MOSHI SUSHI An attractive restaurant in the centre of town that delivers a comprehensive choice of excellent Japanese cuisine. The Ebi Supu soup with shrimps and coconut milk is a really tasty way to start before deciding whether to choose one of their hot dishes or to focus on the sushi. There were a few of us so we are fortunate to be able to try both and the Tori Teriyaki was delicious. It would be a shame not to try the sushi though and the 24-piece Doji gives you a tasty selection of futomaki, nigiri and California sushi that are excellent. This is one of those places where you get the sense the owners are really into what they do rather than just running a restaurant and you’ll enjoy the results. Also find them at P-2, ul. Waszyngtona 21, Gdynia.QN‑3, ul. Monte Cassino 63/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 785 30 08 00, www.moshimoshisushi.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00. (29-119zł). T­U­V­W

Restaurants

Sopot, ul. Bohaterรณw Monte Cassino 63/1 tel. +48 785 300 800

www.moshimoshisushi.pl

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Restaurants MILK BARS

A modern take on a Milk Bar at Familijny

BAR FAMILIJNY - KOS Once upon a time Milk Bars were sterile places with steaming food costing pennies. If that was then, this place is now. It’s huge taking up 3 or 4 adjoining shop premises and it’s all shiny metal serving counters and exposed brick. Pick up a tray; move along the line telling the servers what you would like spooned onto your plate and then head to the till where you pay relatively little for a filling and actually reasonably tasty meal.QB‑4, ul. Tkacka 21-26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 512 297 742, www.barfamilijnykos.pl. Open 07:30 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. (5-10zł).

BAR MLECZNY NEPTUN The most famous milk bar in town, and as such expect it to be rammed with pensioners, builders and weird backpackers queueing for pork chops and mashed cabbage. Get there early as variety diminishes quickly.

QB‑5, ul. Długa 33/34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 49 88, www.barneptun.pl. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (6-20zł). N­T­W BAR MLECZNY SŁONECZNY Keep an eye out for the ‘Sunshine Milk Bar’ which has been dishing up extremely good value food for over 50 years. This is still the place to get your fill both of pretty decent food and any nostalgia you may have for the days of the Iron Curtain.QO‑2, ul. Abrahama 58-60 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 53 16, www.barmlecznysloneczny.pl. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (8-20zł).

T­U­S KOLOROWE TALERZYKI You choose what you want (mix roasted chicken drumsticks with sweet and sour chicken, rice and salad if you like) and then pay for it at the end of the belt based on the weight of the food you’ve loaded onto your plate.

At less than a Euro for 100 grams it’s fairly priced and a good option for a quick meal before boarding your train.

QM‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 698 01 53 52, www.kolorowetalerzyki.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.T­U­6­W 94 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

JEWISH BAGAŻOWNIA ZYNERA Found in the beautifully re-modelled luggage room of the original Sopot railway station, this yellow-brick cottage harks back to a bygone age before the steel and glass construction went up around it. The owners have a sterling record running a series of restaurants in Lodz and this shares some of the same themes. The cuisine is traditional Polish Jewish and with that you might be surprised at some of the dishes which you’d not expect to find in a modern Jewish restaurant. Goose, duck and liver are all present for instance, all of which demonstrate the similarities in cuisine forged by centuries of a shared history in Poland.

You’ll also find un-Polish but nonetheless Jewish dishes like shakshouka and this is small spot is worth a look if you want to escape the crowds.QM‑3, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 516 60 60 60. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (25-69zł).

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MAGHREBIAN MALIKA Maghreb is a region encompassing the land of northwestern Africa around Libya, Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia and Mauritania. These countries share a similar culture in food which combines the staple diet of couscous with influences of the Mediterranean due to the region’s historical connection with Italy and Spain. For that reason you’ll find vegetables, meat and fish common to the coastal regions also appearing. The menu here has been created by a local woman who has spent a lot of her life in the region and runs from soups, salads, couscous and hummus up to a delicious choice of mains which included some very tasty lamb tagine which we loved.QO‑3, ul. Świętojańska 69B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 352 00 08, www.restauracjamalika. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (14-69zł).

T­B­S­6­W

MEXICAN PUEBLO Pueblo is one of the few restaurants in the country (its sister restaurant in Gdynia being one of the others) where Tex-Mex cuisine doesn’t get the equivalent of the fire extinguisher treatment prevalent in so many ethnic diners.

The burritos are the real deal (not a cabbage in sight), and while the house salsa is weak meals come accompanied by a selection of bottled sauces imported straight from Latin America - some of them could knock the spots off a cow. You can expect to see some additions to the menu in the coming months and a smart pricing policy means the cocktails are some of the best value you’ll find in town. Also at ul. Abrahama 56, Gdynia (entrance from ul. Władysława IV, N-2). A good time to visit is during the week between 12:00 and 16:00 when their lunch deals cost from just 25zł.

QB‑4, ul. Kołodziejska 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 24 70, www.restauracjapueblo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (31-88zł). T­W

Restaurants PIEROGI Pierogi are small pockets of dough filled with anything from mushrooms to duck to strawberries which then might be boiled, baked or fried. There are regional variations from Poland to Georgia and each has its own name and tradition, but here in Poland they are pierogi.

Here’s some of our favourite places to try them in town. If you would like to try and make them yourself take a look at our pierogi-making activity at iyp.me/experiences/ gdansk PIEROGARNIA MANDU They’re only pierogi you might argue, but this lot are clearly doing something incredibly right as finding a table in either of their restaurants can sometimes be a huge challenge.

The masses are attracted by the tasty choice of Polish dumplings with a whole host of traditional and unique fillings. The ‘novelty’ is provided by the head-scarfed ladies in the open preparation area making pierogis that taste as good as our grandma’s (although we daren’t tell her that).

If you want a light meal and a piece of local flavour rolled into one put this place on your list.QB‑3, ul. Elżbietańska 4/8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 00 00, www.pierogarniamandu.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (16-28zł). T­U­S­ 6­W PIEROGARNIA PIEROŻEK The portside block in which its located might not be the most attractive but do not let that put you off. The interior is beautifully decorated and is warm and inviting but that’s not the reason we recommend you head here.

If you want to try local cuisine there is nothing more Polish than pierogi (meat, vegetable or fruit filled dough pockets which come either boiled or baked) and this has to be one of the best pierogarnia we’ve come across anywhere. The Mexican themed pierogi with minced beef, beans and corn were excellent but friends also rave about the Ruskie (cheese), mozzarella version and the fruit options on offer. Recommended. Also at O-1, Skwer Kościuszki 15.QP‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 11A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 95 67. Open 11:00 - 19:00. (11-20zł).

T­6­W PIEROGARNIA STARY MŁYN NEW If you want to try Polish cuisine while you’re here, you’ve got to try the pierogi. Not only are they a Polish staple, they are for many non-Poles the least daunting of the local dishes. Stary Mlyn is a good place to try them out thanks to the incredibly wide range of fillings and types on offer. You can get pierogi boiled, fried or baked with sweet or savoury fillings and this lot claim to have a ‘Grandmother’s Certificate’ to prove the authenticity of their recipes. We’ll let you decide but be warned you might be prepared to wait. This place is large particularly when they claim to make all dishes to order. Well worth a visit to find a pierogi to call your own.QC‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 64, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 727 71 14, www.pierogarnie. com. Open 11:03 - 22:56. (16-30zł). T­B­S­6­W

Restaurant created with passion by a woman raised surrounded by oriental flavours, fascinated with amazing Polish products and open-fire cooking techniques, TOP CHEF finalist.

Świętojańska 69b, Gdynia phone: +48 58 352 00 08 info@restauracjamalika.pl

www.restauracjamalika.pl gdansk.inyourpocket.com 95

Restaurants SOPOT CENTRUM

POLISH Polish cuisine has been given a completely new look by many young and talented chefs in recent years and a menu in a Polish restaurant need not be a farmyard role call (with vegetables) on a wooden board that it once was. Not to say that there is anything wrong with that and a visit to one of the traditional wooden karczma where they start by giving you a bowl of lard and bread for free really ought to be experienced for the sheer belt-busting joy of it all. Recently though many local chefs have taken their high-quality foreign training and mixed with the bounty of ingredients available in Poland to come up with some wonderful twists on traditional Polish fare.

The Sopot Centrum complex, which was built on the site of Sopot’s former communist era railway station, has become an extremely popular spot to eat and drink thanks to the ‘Gastronomy Alley’ which offers a choice of really very good food. The complex, which also houses the new train station, shops and a modern public library is well worth a visit whether you’re using the station or not. Particularly in the warmer months the area is a peaceful escape from the nearby Monte Cassino and the outdoor seating is a great place to spend your time. You’ll also have a great range of places to choose from too with an array of eating and drinking options available. Working out from the main building (where incidentally you’ll find a café, Subway, a bakery and KFC for that snack on the run) you can pick up good pizza at Pizza and Piwo; sweet and savoury filled pancakes at Fanaberia (p.72); burgers, steaks and the like at the Jack Daniels inspired Whiskey on the Rocks (p.36); some of the Tri-city’s best sushi at Hashi (p.57); great seafood including some excellent British style fish & chips at Seafood Station (p.38); an eclectic mix of mains with some great daily special at Caly Gawel or buy to eat or take away Italian specialties at the Dolce Vita (p.51) delicatessen. As the day draws on there’s a couple of decent spots to spend the evening with the locally popular bar Avangarda (p.76) and once again Whiskey on the Rocks (p.36) for a great bar and live music which pulls in the crowds. If that isn’t enough choice, a trip up the stairs will bring you to the Jewish-themed Bagazownia set in the old luggage room, the one remaining part of the old station complex to survive the redevelopment.

There really isn’t a dud amongst them which in itself is impressive.

96 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

KARCZMA IRENA An inn-style restaurant where tourists and locals consume big helpings of hearty Polish food at solid wooden tables surrounded by Halberds, paintings of trolls and even a winged Hussar. Loved by many, the only improvement would be the addition of silver goblets and obliging wenches. A very recommendable local experience.QN‑4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 51 69 10, www. pensjonat-irena.com. Open 13:00 - 22:30. (16-40zł).

B­S­6­W MOTLAVA A modern Polish restaurant which is pioneering the spread of the gastronomic trade across the Raduni canal into the formerly derelict Brabank district. We really liked the blood sausage, the zurek (rye soup) and the huge pork chop in breadcrumbs and while all are very typical and simple Polish dishes, they were really well done and very tasty.

Add to that the attractive venue and prices and it’s got a lot going for it. That said, it’s location means you’ll be passing a number of equally good if not better places to get here from the old town and it’s still finding its feet, meaning it’s still rather undiscovered and therefore often quiet.

One huge thing in its favour is the nearby Museum of the Second World War so we recommend this as a place to take a break and grab lunch when visiting the exhibition.QD‑3, ul. Stara Stocznia 2/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 719 51 00, www.motlava.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:15. (26-75zł). T­S­6­W RESTAURACJA GVARA Found in the shadow of St Mary’s Basilica it is still easy to miss this unassuming restaurant despite its central location.

The draw is the opportunity to enjoy tasty, reasonably priced Polish cuisine which comes beautifully presented with a modern twist. The Polish rye soup (żurek) was perfectly matched with the generously stuffed goose pierogi and pumpkin sauce. The beef goulash comes recommended but you can be confident of ordering anything from their breakfast menu (09:00 – 12:00) through their lunch specials to their main menu. Live music Thu- Sat. From Oct. Fri, Sat. QC‑4, ul. Chlebnicka 48/51, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 795 88 92 88, www.restauracjagvara.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (22-74zł). T­E­W

Restaurants RESTAURANT NO. 88 NEW Some of the best chefs in the city these days can be found plying their trade in hotels as the competition increases and the major players try to offer that bit extra to their guests.

One such example is Restaurant 88, which while technically a part of the 4-star Hotel Sopot, is a really attractive modern space with an excellent staff and a relaxed vibe. The reason for your visit is a menu which blends international cuisine with traditional Polish dishes. The results are delicious, beautifully delivered and good value for what you receive.

We enjoyed the duck breast with potato dumplings although we were extremely tempted by the beef sirloin.

Recommended.Qul. J.J. Haffnera 88, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 882 80 32, www.no88.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. €€. T­U­ E­6­W SWOJSKI SMAK For one of the best places for traditional Polish food and vodka in town, you’ll need to take a little walk off the tourist trail to this long-established favourite of ours which covers all the main dishes on a Polish menu and claims to have the widest choice of Polish vodka in the country with over 150 different types. It might not be set in the most picturesque part of town, but if it’s good local food you’re after then you’ll forgive them that - particularly in you’re sleeping in the nearby Ibis or Mercure.QC‑2, ul.

Heweliusza 25/27, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 12, www.swojskismak.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-65zł).

T­S­W TŁUSTA KACZKA The name translates as the Fat Duck and though you shouldn’t expect Heston Blumenthal style experimental cuisine, this is a good place to experience tasty Polish cuisine produced with imagination. The menu has a modern Polish feel as has the restaurant which is bright and stylish. Go for the slow cooked, stuffed, whole duck with fried potatoes, red cabbage and cranberry mousse and you will not be disappointed. Located on the Sopot/ Gdynia border, you are minutes from the centre by car even though it is tucked away close to the forest. Take a taxi and spoil yourself.QN‑6, ul. Spółdzielcza 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 580 08 08, www.tlustakaczka.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00.

(29-98zł). T­U­E­W WOZOWNIA GDAŃSKA NEW Take a trip outside of the old town to visit one of the most attractive venues listed in this guide. Perched up on the hill (Gora Gradowa) overlooking the city is a Napoleon era fortress. Among the beautifully restored brick barracks and buildings is the Wozownia, or Carriage House, which has been transformed into a restaurant. On offer from the concise menu are Polish and Gdansk favourites such as herring, rye soup (Zurek) and duck. The food is pretty good, while the location, with the viewing area nearby make this a very worthwhile excursion. Head for the large cross on the hill.k QA‑1, ul. Gradowa 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 792 20 34 96, www.wozowniagdanska.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon. (33-36zł).

MODERN POLISH & POMERANIAN CUISINE

THE BEST FISH & VENISON

UL. SZAFARNIA10, 80-755 GDAŃSK PHONE: + 48 58 600 85 00 RESTAURACJA@SZAFARNIA10.PL

MADE IN GDAŃSK Forget your Fahrenheits and ignore your Wałęsas, the Tri-city has produced a factory line of famous faces, not least Donald Tusk, the current President of the European Council.

However, there’s so many more. Take for example Artur Schopenhauer, a philosopher who outArthur Schopenhauer geeks Fahrenheit. By

by J. Schäfer, 1859 the age of 25 he had published a book called ‘On the Four fold Root of the Principle of Sufficient Reason’, and his writings would go on to influence thinkers of the calibre of Freud and Einstein. Boxer Dariusz ‘Tiger’ Michalczewski, who comes from Brzezno but defected to West Germany in 1988, came within one defence of breaking Rocky Marciano’s record of successive defences between 1994 and 2003. But let the final word go to Paul Beneke, a naval chief who stole Hans Memling’s triptych ‘The Last Judgement’ after boldly boarding Britain’s St Thomas in 1473. The result of his deft act of robbery hangs to this day in the National Museum in Gdańsk. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 97

Restaurants CENTRUM HAFFNERA

REGIONAL GDAŃSKA One of the city’s longest standing restaurants has the feel of a museum with all the armour, statuettes, model ships and portraits of famous Gdanskians/Danzigers. This is one of former President Lech Wałęsa’s favourite haunts and you can try his favourite dishes by ordering his set menu which includes a shot of strong, peppery Wałęsówka vodka. QB‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 16/24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 76 71, www.gdanska.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (2585zł). T­U­W

Did you know that Sopot is the smallest town in Poland to have a multiplex cinema? The Multikino was one of the things the city gained with the complete redevelopment of the lower part of Sopot some years back. An area that had previously been a mismatch of huts and ramshackle buildings thrown up after the war on war damaged land, the Haffner Centre, named after the city’s famous French doctor, formed the centrepiece of the new square. As well as the cinema you’ll find a waxwork museum, a hotel – the Bayjonn and a good choice of places to eat or to relax with a coffee. The terrace is a popular spot during the warmer months as you watch the world and its dog heading to or from the beach or take in one of the street entertainers going through their act. The centre boasts a café, Mount Blanc, selling a huge choice of Belgian chocolates and an outlet of the famous Polish Grycan ice cream company.

There’s some very good dining choices too with the Moshi Moshi Japanese restaurant; the Bosco Italian restaurant; Pelican, a smart wine bar and tapas joint; Nowy Swiat, which offers modern Polish cuisine and Monte Vino, with its great wine selection and menu. The building is also home to the classy TAN (p.85) nightclub, the queues to which demonstrate its popularity and exclusivity.

The Haffner Centre is also home to the city’s EMPiK store where you can get books, DVDs and CDs and the like. N-3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot.

KAFËBË We’ve always found the local Kashubian cuisine to make use of local ingredients such as fresh fish, dairy and homegrown vegetables with often a sweet twist added such as sugar to the carrot salad or a slice of orange to the main course. At Kafëbë, a name which plays on the name of Kashubia in the local dialect – Kaszëbë – you’ll find a concise and unquestionably original menu including potato pancakes with smoked fish and crème fresh with chives; a very tasty Zurek (ryr soup) and familiar mains with that Kashubian twist – a beef burger served in Challah bread and a chicken fricassee in a Kashubian style with white sauce and raisins. It might not be to everyone’s taste but it is tasty and unquestionably original. QB‑4, ul. Piwna 64/65, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 500 27 52 86. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (14-41zł).

T­B­6­W KLATKA B Klatka B refers to the address (staircase B) and what you’ll find is a peculiar mix of cafe, bar, restaurant, gallery and shop squeezed into one half of the attractive St. John’s Gate. There’s a lot to like, not least the views out onto the river through the wooden framed windows and the menu, which makes great use of locally sourced ingredients, makes this is a perfect lunch stop. What we found remarkable is that the chef seemed to be conjuring up the dishes, most which came in small, round ceramic bowls, from a kitchen the size of a handkerchief. All credit to him too, as our pumpkin soup and potato and Kashubian sausage casserole were very tasty.QD‑4, ul. Świętojańska 43/44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 519 81 05 17. Open 07:00 13:00, 18:00 - 01:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. (15-36zł).

T­6­W KUBICKI The oldest remaining restaurant in town dates back to 1918 when it traded as the Cafe International run by Bronislaw Kubicki and his family. A breathtaking remodelling sees it combine period pieces like the fireplaces with a modern aesthetic look in which to enjoy Danzig/Gdansk dishes like delicious herring following by a tasty roast duck with red cabbage. Very impressive from the food, to the ambience to the service and well worth a visit.QD‑3, ul. Wartka 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 00 50, www.restauracjakubicki. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (39-99zł). I­E­W

98 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Restaurants

Open from 12.00 pm to 11.00 pm Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk www.mercatorestaurant.pl +48 58 77 87 442 mercato.gdansk@hilton.com

MERCATO In a word – excellent. The Mercato is the in-house restaurant of the Hilton Gdansk hotel with a ground floor location opening out onto a terrace overlooking the river. The service is extremely professional as you would expect but it is the food that demands your visit. The regularly changing menu is wonderfully original and although you might recognise a lot of the Polish ingredients you’ll not have seen them combined as you will here. On our visit a tasty sorrel soup was followed by a truly delicious dish of wild boar bacon, smoked prunes, horseradish and mushrooms, while the stewed beef cheeks on our colleague’s plate looked equally appetising..QD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 42, www.mercatorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (49-99zł). T­U­W POD ŁOSOSIEM It’s here that Goldwasser vodka was first distilled back in 1598 when it went under the name Der Lachs (the Salmon) a reference to how addresses were often identified by the figure above the door. Today being run by the third generation of the same family who took it over after the war, this is signature Gdansk dining with a recommended dish being the traditional roast duck with apple followed by a glass of Goldwasser. The original Goldwasser recipe went west after the war and this is the one place in the city where you can taste the original ‘Der Lachs’ Goldwasser distilled these days in Germany.QC‑4, ul. Szeroka 52-54, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 52, www.podlososiem.com. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (60-110zł). T­S­W

RESTAURANT CAFÉ POLSKIE SMAKI A really impressive place to enjoy local cuisine presented with originality and panache. Kashubian cuisine has a wealth of raw materials to work with incorporating, as the region to the west of Gdansk does, everything from sea to lakes to forests and prime farming land. You’ll find Polskie Smaki overlooking the fountain and the pier in Sopot, which is as good a location as any to try a menu which focuses on Kashubian and Polish products. Everything from the ingredients of the dishes to the beer, vodka and even, believe it or not, the wine is locally produced while your table centerpiece of a sunflower is a typical Kashubian decoration and even the tableware comes from a pottery near Koscierzyna. Fish is a cornerstone of a menu which also features duck, pork and beef and our cod, potatoes and fresh vegetables both tasted and looked amazing. The duck pierogi was delicious as was the fruit cocktail. One tip is to take advantage of their summer lunch offer which sees you get a soup and a main course for just 29zl – a price worth paying just to sit and enjoy the view let alone eat the best local cuisine in town. An extremely pleasurable experience with a great terrace, professional staff and most of all delicious and original food - we highly recommend it.QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 00, www.restauracjapolskiesmaki. com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

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Restaurants

The best of Spanish cuisine.

The best-loved dishes of all the regions, from Seville to Barcelona via Madrid. ul. Tandeta 1 lok. 81 (entrance from ul. Szeroka) tel. +48 58 573 34 11 Open: Mon - Thu 12:00 - 23:00 Fri- Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00 www.facebook.com/patioespanolgdansk www.patioespanol.pl Menu languages

SZAFARNIA 10 The chefs, headed up by an award-winning chap called Grzegorz Labuda, prepare delicious original dishes made with local produce - think Baltic sea- and Kashubian freshwater fish; game; local vegetables and dairy products. This is served from an open kitchen into a smart restaurant whose large all-year terrace overlooks Granary Island with the wonderful backdrop of old town Gdansk. This is one of our favourite spots in the city with the quality of the menu and the completely remodelled location a perfect example of how much has changed for the better in Gdansk in a relatively short time. A good spot for breakfast too.QD‑5, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 600 85 00, www.szafarnia10.pl.

Open 07:00 - 22:00. (29-129zł). T­U­B­E­W TAWERNA MESTWIN For local cooking you won’t find a more authentic venue than Mestwin, a shadowy eatery from which dolls and carvings peer spookily from the corners. Recipes here are Kashubian inspired, and the results arrive courtesy of staff who creak carefully around the assembled handicrafts.

QC‑3, ul. Straganiarska 20/23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 78 82, www.tawernamestwin.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. (18-38zł). T­6­W

youtube.com/inyourpocket 100 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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SPANISH PATIO ESPAÑOL A very attractive looking venue in a new development which is helping attract people onto the previously quiet ul. Szeroka. With the car parked outside we were forced to reluctantly skip the wine list which caught our eye and settled instead for a selection of Tapas and a seafood paella for two, both of which were delicious. The multilanguage menu features other attractive dishes and a scan of neighbouring tables suggests that we weren’t the only ones to leave happy.QC‑4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 11, www. patioespanol.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-70zł). T­U­B­S­W

THAI CHANG THAI STREET FOOD NEW It’s a thing these days it seems to put the words ‘street food’ into any new ethnic restaurant’s name and the suggestion seems to be that the results will be cheap and snacky. That’s not the case here. While the place is very casual and the part-open kitchen spills out aromas to both make your mouth water and your clothes stink (much like a Bangkok street stall) this is a well-priced restaurant rather than snack on the run bar. The menu offers a short list of mains, but you can choose which core ingredient to have with it i.e. some offer a choice between tofu, chicken, pork, duck or beef. The results are very good and we particularly liked

Restaurants the satays and soups to start. Worth a look if you’re in old Wrzeszcz and you’re not dressed to impress.QF‑3, ul.

Dmowskiego 15, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 889 72 69 36. Open 11:00 - 22:00.

LOLO THAIJOLO Having gone up in the world simply by moving from what looked like little more than a wooden hut into the handsome building next door, this is a really good option on Pl. Kaszubski. The menu offers a great choice of your favourite Thai dishes as well as some delicious combinations of tastes with just the right amount of spice plus Thai beer.

If there’s one problem, it’s that the young team in the kitchen are too good at what they do and it’s sometimes a challenge to find a table.QO‑2, ul. Jana z Kolna 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 512 64 44 12, www.thaijolo.pl. Open 11:30 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. (20-30zł). T­6­W RYŻ One word here – taste. The soups come in two sizes and while we were rather surprised to see 29zl for the larger portion of Tom Yum, the 500ml full of meat and vegetables could have been a meal in itself. The beef curry which followed is making us salivate now just writing about it with wonderfully tender beef and a great mix of spices.

Even the APA we washed it down with seemed to have been chosen for that key word we began with – taste.

We’ll definitely be going back.QK‑4, Stary Rynek Oliwski 2, Gdańsk Oliwa, tel. (+48) 58 380 26 27, www.ryz.com. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (32-51zł). T­S­W THAI THAI We’ve long been fans of Thai Thai first in Sopot and then in Warsaw and the team behind this are the real deal. The food is excellent and this is one ethnic restaurant you can be sure won’t tone down the spices for the local palette. The setting for their new venture are the former Royal Stables at the top of ul. Dluga and it looks great. We’re not exaggerating when we say we love everything on the menu and our only qualm is that it’s on the expensive side for a meal in Poland. That said, it’s worth it and we thoroughly recommend it. Also at ul.

Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot.QB‑4, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 500 41 13 13, www.thaithai.pl.

Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. (44-95zł). T­W

UKRAINIAN RESTAURACJA UKRAINECZKA The last couple of years has seen lots of our Ukrainians neighbours moving to Poland to help the Polish economy and here’s one group helping the Polish waistline. The cuisine is primarily Ukrainian with a bit of Lithuanian mixed in and the staff are all authentic. The food is well-priced and there’s a lot to choose from including Ukrainian borsch, a choice of Draniki (potato style packages) and filling mains like ribs and chicken Kyiv. The place is big which can pose problems on a busy day but the staff, dressed in patterned shirts and blouses help make for a good experience.

QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 58 56 76. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (10-69zł). T­B­W

SCANDINAVIAN GÅRD – TASTE SCANDINAVIAN Set in the Courtyard Marriott hotel overlooking the quay and museum ships, Gard is an extremely attractive eatery with a menu inspired by dishes from our Scandinavian neighbours across the water. Choosing one of the tasty soups such as the Norwegian fish soup is a good way to start before following it with the salmon with caviar and a beurre noisette sauce. There’s also some typically Polish dishes for those who want to try the local cuisine too, while weekly live music and DJ events make evenings memorable. This is a great spot with a professional staff, separate kids’ menu and surprisingly reasonable prices considering the location and quality on offer.QP‑2, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 15, www. gardtastescandinavian.com/gard-gdynia. Open for breakfast 06:30 - 10:30; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. Open for lunch and dinner 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:30 22:00. (36-69zł). T­U­E­W gdansk.inyourpocket.com 101

Restaurants STEAK CRUDO An extremely smart space with steak as the cornerstone of the menu. Found a little way up Monciak towards the church, Crudo’s single-sided menu comes presented on a wooden board offering six types of steak including a Cheateaubriand. We could talk about the chowder or the beefburger option but that would be to miss the attraction of the place which is the steak. Cooked as requested (not a given in many places), the 300g of beef was very good and washed down with a glass of red wine which complemented the food perfectly.

Recommended both as a place to take the important business client or simply as a place to get back to carnivorous basics.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 36/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 82 45 00, www. crudogrill.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (35-200zł).

U­B­S­6­W PIROMAN STEAK HOUSE Set in a small building on the main Tri-city thoroughfare, Piroman quickly developed a reputation for excellent steaks. Choose from T-Bone, Rib Eye, Tomahawk, New York and Tenderloin all of which cooked perfectly to order with sides such as tasty fries and salads. The secret here seems to be the care taken in the supply of the meat and the owners also act as a butcher with many now using Piroman to pick up cuts of prime steak for home. If you like steak take a trip out there – you’ll not regret it.QM‑5, Al. Niepodległości 684, Sopot, tel. (+48) 514 79 02 68. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. (24150zł). T­6 T-BONE STEAKHOUSE Pricey but well-worth the ‘investment’ especially if you want a return of a tasty steak dinner. We skipped past the choice of starters and soups and straight over the eight burger options to get to the 13 types of beef steak which form the core of the menu. We picked out a Fillet Mignon from a selection that included beef from Poland to as far away as Australia or Uruguay. We then matched it with steak house chips and grilled vegetables and a Béarnaise sauce from the list of choices which come with each steak as part of the price. The steak arrived perfectly medium rare as ordered and was so tasty that we were literally left smiling at the end. There’s a few places in the old town area for a steak but we’d put this in a recommended top three. Also at N-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 8-10/2, Sopot.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 22/23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 501 10 21 91, www.t-bone.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (31-250zł).

T­S ­6 ­W 102 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Restaurants

Steaks from the best seasoned Black Angus beef, valued by true connoisseurs and gourments around the world.

Soft, juicy and tender.

Beef from Poland, Australia, Ireland, Uruguay and the USA.

GDAŃSK ul. Długi Targ 22/23 • tel. 501-102-191

SOPOT ul. Grunwaldzka 8-10/2 • tel. 798-557-008

kontakt@t-bone.com.pl

www.t-bone.com.pl

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Restaurants LOST GDAŃSK - KINO NEPTUN

VEGETARIAN AVOCADO A recommended Vegan restaurant which serves up dishes which are not only healthy but also look and taste great.

Our quiche (read tart in Poland), salads and cakes were all delicious and would nearly make us become vegetarian full-time, if it wasn’t our job to check out restaurants which serve meat as well.QF‑4, ul. Wajdeloty 25/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 534 50 36 66, www.avocado.info.pl. Open 11:00 20:00. (16-22zł). U­6­W

Gdansk is now home to a multitude of multiplexes and there’s one within a short walk of the old town at the Forum Gdansk. While these new developments have greatly improved the quality of cinema going in the city, not least in the area of comfort, there are many Gdanskians who were saddened by the closure of the Neptun Cinema (Kino Neptun) on ul. Dluga a few years back when the site was sold to develop a new hotel on Gdansk’s main street.

A cinema at ul. Dluga 57/58 can be traced back to 1937 when local cinema impresario Willi Kuschel bought a packet of plots which had previously hosted a branch of the Poznan Industrial Bank and the Vaterland café and redeveloped them into the modern Tobias Palast entertainment centre. The development stretched from ul. Dluga (or Langgasse as it was then) to ul. Piwna (formerly Jopengasse) and seated up to 1,200 people when it opened on November 3, 1939.

It miraculously survived the destruction of WWII in relatively good condition, thanks in part to the modern 1930s concrete construction not shared by neighbouring buildings.

The decision to rebuild the cinema was made in 1950.

The newly christened Leningrad cinema was officially opened on November 3, 1953, exactly 14 years to the day after Kuschel had opened his Tobias-Palast. The cinema was a visual treat with flowing staircases leading to the balcony and stone engravings showing the heroic workers of the new Poland decorated the foyer.

The cinema continued to operate as the Leningrad until 1993 when it was renamed Neptun. The building was finally demolished in 2016 to make way for the new Hampton by Hilton hotel which opened in June 2018.

The new hotel has retained quite a few items from the old cinema and incorporated them into the interior design of the new construction. You’ll see the ornate metal fittings from the old balcony and staircase while some of the stone engravings which used to adorn the foyer have also been preserved and now decorate the reception and communal areas. A 50-seat cinema has also been built in the cellars of the building where you’ll also find the Kino Kameralne café and bar ensuring that while Kino Neptun/Leningrad/Tobias Palast, has gone, it is not forgotten.

104 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

GREEN WAY FOOD FOR LIFE Greenway was one of Poland’s great success stories, starting off as a cheap veggie bar in the Gdańsk district of Żabianka, the winning formula of good-quality, tasty, vegetarian, affordable food literally mushroomed into one of Poland’s most successful restaurant chains. They seem to have shrunk in recent years but you should still expect a decent range of meat free dishes with daily specials marked up on the board, a great choice of juices and a primarily young, studenty crowd.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 47, Sopot, www.greenway.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. (11-19zł). T­S­6­W I KROWA CAŁA You’d think a burger place called the ‘And the whole cow’ would serve up the biggest beefburgers and steaks in town but you’d be wrong. First of all the ‘cała (whole)’ in reference to this krowa (cow) means ‘unharmed as in the Polish saying ‘Wilk syty i owca cała’ (The wolf is full and the sheep is unharmed)’. Polish lesson over. Everything served and prepared here is vegan from the burgers to the pitta to the sandwiches. And as much as we like meat in our burgers we love this as well. The lentil (Soczewica) burger with mustard sauce was delicious. Keep an eye out for their lemonades and Smufis (a great example of an English word being put through the Polish press).QO‑2, ul. Dworcowa 11, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 665 78 20 25, www.ikrowacala.pl.

Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (11-20zł). 6­W NIEMIĘSNY MUKA BAR Following the success of offering a healthier alternative to the plethora of burger vans with their Muka Food Truck, this lot have set down roots in the less-explored Lower City district (Dolne Miasto). The sign over the door is a 70s-style ‘Butchers’ sign (Mięsny) with a ‘Nie’ added. This would suggest an exclusively vegetarian menu but the reality is more than that. There is an excellent choice of falafal, mezze and hummus as well as a vegetarian burger with Halloumi cheese on the Niemięsny part of the menu.

But to the delight of us carnivores, there are also some meat options on the Mięsny side of the menu including a delicious Kofta burger. There’s an all-day breakfast and a great choice of wine and beers too meaning this is a vegetarian restaurant which is way more than that.QD‑6, ul. Jaskółcza 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 785 11 75 56. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. (20-30zł). T­6

Restaurants

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Restaurants PANCAKES FANABERIA CREPES & CAFE A summery looking creperie with a breezy, blue design and windows that fall open to allow maximum sun.

The fruit cocktails are great, even better when the asphalt is melting, though the real point of this place are the pancakes, hailed as the best in the city.QO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 33/35, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 785 78 17 81, www.nalesnikarnia-fanaberia.pl. Open 10:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (10-23zł). T­6­W NALEŚNIKARNIA CUDA WIANKI The Pancake Shop (for that is literally the meaning of Naleśnikarnia) is a bright, modern space located between the two tunnels at the top of Monte Cassino.

Choose from a menu of sweet and savoury fillings as well as some of the tastiest salads we’ve had the pleasure to try in the city. We have to admit to being fans of the Mexican pancake as well as the salads while we know children who are unable to pass without begging for a mixed fruit pancake with whipped cream.

Delicious.QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 12 12. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

(10-22zł). T­U­B­W NALEŚNIKOWO If our mother had let us open up a café at the age of eight, it would have looked exactly like Naleśnikowo.

It would probably have the same crepe-centric menu, too, though Naleśnikowo takes it a step further by offering options we couldn’t conceive of. Sure there’s countless pillowy sweet crepes (Oreo biscuit, banana and Nutella! Swoon!) and savoury choices like chorizo, bacon and pickles but why not go for the exotic noodle-laden spaghetti crepe or the pancake lasagne which also comes with a vegetarian option? The service is quick and attentive and the menu is in English and German. Drag yourself away from busy Długa and you’ll be in for a treat. We’re pretty sure your inner eight-yearold will thank you as will any real ones with you when they see the children’s menu.QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 125, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 30 82, www.nalesnikowo. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. (8-23zł). You can pay in $, €, or £. T­U­6­W YUMMY! American style pancakes stacked on top of each other with a range of sweet and savoury toppings that has generated a popular following. The secret seems to be that they’ve got the recipe just right (according to our pancake eating expert) and the toppings are both generous and beautifully presented. The lemonade is also delicious. Also at ul. Garncarska 4/6 (Old Town).

QF‑4, ul. Wajdeloty 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 574 68 85 57, www.yummygdansk.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (16-22zł).

106 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

QUICK EATS BAR POD RYBĄ More places now offer filled potatoes but ‘Under the Fish’ continues to serve the best in town in our opinion. For less than €7, diners get a huge roasted potato split open and topped with one of seven sauces and then heaped with anything from salmon to sausage to beans or veggies; you will not walk away hungry. We love the gouda and bacon, the Hungarian sausage, the Mexican beef – hell we’d happily eat them all. The venue itself is cosy enough, has a warm brass bar, plenty of Danzig-era signs and paintings on the wall. Check out their cellar bar below called Jopengasse, which stocks a range of craft beers and is named after the name of this street in German, which itself was named after the most famous of the beers brewed by Johannes Hevelius when he wasn’t looking up at the stars.

QB‑4, ul. Piwna 61/63, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00. (10-38zł). T­6­W GALERIA BAŁTYCKA FOOD COURT Find KFC, McDs, Burger King, North Fish, a Shrimp Shack and a good Asian option in the food court as well as a Pizza Hut restaurant downstairs.QF‑2, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 50, www.galeriabaltycka.pl.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. U­S­W KFC Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4); Al. Niepodległości 635/637, Sopot (L-6), ul. Dworcowa 7 (M-4) and ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3).QA‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2C, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 71 386 15 20, www.kfc.pl. Open 06:00 - 03:00.

(5-50zł). T­U­B­S­W MCDONALD’S Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk (Galeria Bałtycka, F-2); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 21, Sopot (M-3); Al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia (P-6); ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, O-3/4) and Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia (O-2, Gdynia Główna Train Station).QA‑2, ul.

Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 694 49 59 10, www.mcdonalds.pl. Open 04:30 - 03:00. (10-17zł).

T­U­S­W PIÑATA Another one of those fast food businesses which started off as a food truck and became so popular with their customers that they’ve moved into permanent premises.

On offer here are speedily prepared burritos, tacos and quesadillas available with chicken, pulled beef, pork or vegetarian fillings and covered in a sauce where you get to choose on a scale of 10 as to how hot it should be. Poles are becoming more acquainted with spicy food so beware before ordering a full on 10. Very enjoyable. Also at K-5, ul.

Artura Schopenhauera 1, Gdańsk-Oliwa.QB‑3, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 660 41 52 85. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. (17-24zł). B­S­6

Restaurants SUBWAY Also at ul. Rajska 10, Gdańsk (Madison Shopping Centre, B-2); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 39, Sopot (N-3); ul.

10 Lutego 11, Gdynia (Batory, O-2) and ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, O-3/4).QB‑4, ul. Długa 56, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 46 22, www.subway.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Thu 8:30 - 22:30, Fri 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

(8-20zł). U­S­W WOŁOWA BUŁA (BEEF ROLL) There’s a lot of choice in the ‘street food’ category in the Tri-city, but this is probably our favourite. A Polish take on the Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, you have 5 different combinations to choose from which basically come down to the extras you order to be placed on top of the beef and cheese in your long roll. There’s a few things that set this place apart from the copious competition. First is the roll is filled to the brim; there is a range of sauces available on your table to add your own touch and then thirdly the owners. The place is manned by two slightly older gentlemen which makes a nice change from the bearded hipsters that tend to man this kind of enterprise.

Well-worth seeking out if you’re visiting Gdynia and fancy a tasty, filling and well-priced snack.QO‑2, ul. Abrahama 12, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 510 48 84 04. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Tue 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (18-24zł). 6

BAR POD RYBĄ A place which since  has been the king of the delicious baked potato and the delicious salad in Tri-city…

Gdańsk, ul. Piwna 61/63 (near the Arsenal) tel. + 48 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba.pl

DISASTER AT SEA The sinking of the Wilhelm Gustloff on January 30, 1945 rates as the worst maritime disaster in history.

Originally used as a deluxe Nazi cruise liner, the vessel had been based in Gdynia for much of the war. With the Eastern Front collapsing, German Admiral Doenitz ordered the evacuation of German civilians and wounded troops from the Tri-City region. Overcrowded with refugees seeking safety from the advancing Red Army, the Gustloff limped out of the port of the Gdynia apparently destined for either Rostock or Szczecin.

Just minutes after relaying an address to the nation

by Adolf Hitler, the Gustloff - named in memory of the assassinated leader of the Swiss Nazi party - was hit by three torpedoes from the Soviet submarine S‑13.

Within 50 minutes the 650foot vessel had sunk to the bottom of the Bay of Gdańsk. Freezing temperatures, overcrowding and a shortage of lifeboats meant that of the estimated 10,000 passengers, only 500 survived; a figure that is seven times the number that died on the Titanic.

Ignoring rules of engagement S‑13 continued to fire torpedoes at rescue ships. The captain of the Gustloff, predictably, managed to scramble to safety. Today the ship lies 42 metres below the ocean surface, marked as a maritime grave.

Traditional Italian pizzeria run with passion by Italian owners.

ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot tel. +48 531 04 40 04 www.restauracjatesoro.pl gdansk.inyourpocket.com 107

Nightlife

Great food, drinks and music in the heart of the old town at Hard Rock Cafe (p. 71).

There was a time when Gdansk’s nightlife seemed a bit limited but that’s changing. While Sopot is still recognised as the Tri-city’s party town there are more than enough good bars and the odd club which will keep you in the old town. That said Sopot is the centre of Tri-city with most of the action centred around the main drag, Monte Cassino where most clubs will apply a cover charge - expect to pay 10-30zł to get into the better ones. Gdynia choices have really improved of late and while most of the nightlife is concentrated near the sea around Al. Jana Pawła and Skwer Kościuszki, a wander around the area in the middle of O/P-2 on our map can be very rewarding.

BARS & PUBS 3 SIOSTRY (3 SISTERS) A local favourite and as the name suggests a cafe/bar/club run by 3 sisters, owners no doubt of the dozens of shoes nailed to the ceiling. These ladies know how to run a bar and the loyal clientele keep coming back to cram onto the tiny floor to dance the night away to classics from across the decades. A great spot to spend the evening where the opportunity to interact with the locals seems to be part of the design and the crowd is a bit older than you will find in the clubs in the Crooked House for instance. For a bit of extra local flavour, ask Beata or Ola for a shot of the house specialty, homemade strawberry flavoured vodka.QN‑3, ul.

Powstańców Warszawy 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 00 00.

Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. U­B­6­W 110 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

AVANGARDA The attractive, wooden and metal decor and the, by Polish standards, long bar make this a welcoming place to enjoy sampling the 60 bottled beers from different regional breweries, a further 6 on tap and a decent snack menu. They’ve got a large screen on which they show some classic (read old but good) pop videos and some football matches and a small stage area for live music. As a friendly and relaxed bar, we like it a lot and it’s yet another place which is pulling us towards the Sopot station development.QM‑4, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 32 23 00. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00.

U­E­6­W BROVARNIA Quite possibly our favourite microbrewery in Poland, which is by no means the empty award you might think.

The beers – including an award winning dark beer are brewed on-site – are faultless, while the smoking ban does its bit to really exaggerate the pungent smell of malt and hops. Found in a restored granary building, this pub features stout wooden fittings, black and white pics of dockside Danzig, and small little hatches that allow beams of sunlight to slant inside. Even better, if your head goes boom after test-driving their beer menu then just check into the excellent Hotel Gdańsk upstairs.

QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:30. T­U­B­E­ 6­W

Nightlife CAFÉ ABSINTHE An old-favourite of ours and after all these years we’re still not entirely sure why. A fairly basic bar in a corner of the theatre building on Targ Weglowy it does have a great selection of draft and bottled beers, a DJ booth and a dancefloor - that’s it in a nutshell. But the fact is it works and it’s been working for years. The loyal crowd is a mix of people from all over the place who love a good night plus the lack of neighbours here mean that the party goes on long into the morning (unlike in the main part of town).

Take a look at the opening hours if you don’t believe us.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy (Teatr Wybrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 37 84. Open 15:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 06:00. U­E­W CATHEAD MULTITAP An excellent multi-tap bar with a slightly British pub style feel and a very handy location found metres from the main square in Gdansk. Then there’s the beer, the choice of which currently stands at 28 taps and over 90 different bottled beers which covers the full spectrum of real ales (there’s Murphy’s Irish stout on tap too). This seems to be a real labour of love and the choice of draft beers we’ve faced changes each time we’ve visited which has added to the attraction. There’s regular live music and beerthemed entertainment. There’s a menu of tasty bar snacks but best of all is the opportunity to enjoy your drink while sitting out on an excellent terrace overlooking the river (subject to weather needless to say). Very good.QC‑5, ul. Powroźnicza 19/20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 572 50 42 12.

Open 17:00 - 23:45, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 23:45. 6­W CRAFT COCKTAILS An excellent cocktail bar with the feel of a discreet, private drinking club thanks to the comfortable seating, lots of dark woods and low lighting. The cocktail menu is extensive and well-priced, so you can enjoy a quiet evening away from the chaos found in many bars in the old town. The bar staff are well-drilled at their art and they claim to filter their water with each cocktail being accompanied by a glass of it chilled to, they say, protect you from the hangover a night here is likely to induce.QC‑4, ul. Szeroka 48/49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 509 82 28 42. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. 6­W DONEGAL As authentic an Irish pub in terms of appearance as you’re likely to find in Europe, Donegal is a long-term labour of love for its owners who clearly appreciate there’s more to an Irish pub than simply getting some beers in and sticking an ‘Irish Pub’ sign up outside. There’s a healthy selection of whiskey and a none-too shabby collection of whisky as well. The Guinness is as good a pint as you’ll get in Poland and a warm (sometimes very warm) atmosphere makes it the kind of place you can pass a few hours gently tipping the pints and sipping the whiskies.QO‑2, ul. Zgoda 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 46 23. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. E­W

Weigh anchor at the Cathead in the heart of Gdansk

Tap takeovers

Live Music

Special beer-themed events

The best multitap in the Tri-city with 29 local and foreign craft beers on tap, Murphy’s and a wide range of wines, spirits and cocktails.

Cathead Multitap Gdansk Powroźnicza 19/20 Gdansk www.cathead.pl

KVASS Kvass or as it is more commonly known in Poland ‘Kwas Chlebowy’ is a soft drink made from fermented dark rye bread and historically very popular in this part of the world. While you’ll not find it being sold on the street from large tanks, like you do in nearby Kaliningrad, you will find it making a bit of a comeback in local bars and restaurants. Kvass has a very low alcohol content (generally less than 1%).

It is thought to have arrived in Poland from the east in about the 10th century and has been popular for most of the time since. Between the wars Kvass made a strong comeback after its popularity suffered during the century of partition but it lost ground again later on in the communist era as Coca-Cola became the fashionable drink.

With the growth in small, traditional bars and restaurants who are reviving traditional recipes, Kvass has started to make a bit of a comeback here. Described by Michael Palin on his travels through these parts a few years ago as having ‘A curious taste which I can only describe as a mix of Pepsi-Cola and gravy’ it might not be for everyone. Give it a try at places like Familia Wileńska. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 111

Nightlife DWIE ZMIANY A bit bar, a bit cafe, a bit eatery, a bit art gallery, a bit good really. This is a magnet for Sopot’s hipster crowd attracted as much by the cool reputation it’s built up as for anything else. We like it because of their Dwie Zmiany Pils, a great beer from a brewery in neighbouring Warmia which is one of 7 they have on tap. There’s some not bad food also available. If you’re doing a crawl of Monciak’s bars, this is one worth stopping off at.QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 31, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 380 21 27, www. dwiezmiany.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. 6­W FLISAK 76 We’ve long highlighted the cocktails here and so it was no surprise when we read that Krzysztof Rathnau and the team there had picked up the prestigious ‘Bar of the Year’ award specifically for their cocktails. While cocktails are very much in vogue in Gdansk these days this is still worth seeking out.

Found a short block away from the main square, Flisak is a popular, subterranean bar frequented by a friendly crowd who tend to set not follow local fashion trends. Some of the concoctions and names are wonderful and it’s well worth making this a stop on your way round the town - there’s a couple of beers to choose from too if you’re not in the mood for a cocktail.QC‑5, ul. Chlebnicka 9/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 509 99 48 54. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. 6­W

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112 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

HARD ROCK CAFE Hard Rock are known for the food, cocktails and rock memorabilia but the best ones we’ve been in are the ones who remember they got into this game originally because of music. And when we say music we of course mean rock music. There’s a small stage for large performances, a decent sound system and a prime location making this a popular stop. Check out their Facebook page for what’s on.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

U­B­E­6­W HIGH 5 Hitting the fifth floor bar of the Hilton isn’t unlike walking on-set of a Ralph Lauren ad. This place is sheer class, with a wood-deck terrace offering rooftop views of Gdańsk from white wicker loungers. Don’t be surprised to find hotel guests shuffling around in snow coloured dressing gowns, they’re fresh from dipping in the rooftop pool. Surprisingly, somewhat, prices are kept at an affordable level, and there’s a small glass-encased bar for colder evenings.QD‑3, ul.

Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 50, www. hiltongdansk.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. U­W INK ABOVE Take the lift up to the 8th floor of the Puro Hotel on Granary Island where you’ll find a small but wellstocked bar from which to choose from a drinks list which features a range of locally brewed beers, creative cocktails and a strong choice of wines and spirits.

Nightlife The reason for visiting is so you can relax on their enclosed terrace and gaze out over the marina and the development on Granary Island to the glorious old town just across the water. A great way to begin or end a meal in the downstairs Dancing Anchor restaurant.

QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 563 50 45, www.purohotel.pl/en/gdansk. Open 17:00 01:00. U­B­6­W JOPENGASSE A great subterranean bar which is a labyrinth of nooks and crannies spread over three levels. The name pays homage to the former name of ul. Piwna which itself got its name from the beer brewed by the family of Johannes Hevelius, better known as a great astronomer but a brewer by trade. This street used to be the centre of Danzig brewing in centuries past and today you can enjoy a choice of craft beers while sitting at tables which are like museum display cases. There’s lots of Danzig memorabilia and you can also order from the upstairs ‘Under the Fish’ baked potato restaurant. If you want to visit old Danzig this is as good a place as any, as while much above ground level has been rebuilt these cellars are original.QB‑4, ul. Piwna 63, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 691 54 73, www.jopengassepub.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.

E­W LAWENDOWA 8 A converted corner shop in what’s become Gdansk’s Hipster Central. You might ask why on first entering - a design incorporating some leftover black paint, a bar, some furniture nicked off a scrap heap and what looked like a 1980s Space Invader machine hardly scream interior design award nominee. We’re guessing the crowds that pour out onto the street are drawn here by the choice of locally brewed ales which include Wing of Hop and Rowing Jack and are reminiscent of British ales in colour and taste. The rest seem to be drawn here to hang out in what people have dubbed ‘L osiem’.QC‑3, ul. Lawendowa 8 (entrance from ul. Straganiarska), tel. (+48) 58 691 97 40. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00. E­W LE BAR Sweep through the Sofitel Grand Hotel’s lobby to reach a drinking space seemingly built for deal clinching drinks.

This is as pricey for drinks in the city but its worth it just to experience the atmosphere of what was the premier pre-war resort hotel on the Baltic. There’s a wonderful private garden in which to sit back and enjoy the view over the pier and beach and try to imagine the great (and not at all great) names that have passed through this bar photographs on the walls help with that. You’ll find regular live music on Thursday, Saturdays and Sundays too.QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 95, www.sofitel-grand-sopot. com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

U­B­E­W

The history of places is created by unforgettable people tel. 58 691 54 73 www.jopengassepub.pl ul. Piwna 63 Gdańsk (in the basement of the legendary Bar Pod Rybą)

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ – or mulled wine – as you’ll notice by the stands selling cups of it during December’s Christmas fairs. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over... and Na zdrowie! gdansk.inyourpocket.com 113

Nightlife LOST TRADITIONS In a further attempt to recreate one of the many lost cultural traditions of Gdańsk/Danzig, a German restaurateur living in Gdańsk who prides himself on his passion for lost traditions and the quality products that go with them has revived another bygone local brew.

Machandel, the one-time State Drink of Danzig, is a juniper-based alcoholic drink with a smooth taste and firm kick, originally produced by the Stobbe family in the nearby town of Tiegenhof (now Nowy Dwor Gdański, just west of Elbląg) and has been out of production since WWII. Now produced by a distillery in Germany and available in Gdańsk in the Goldwasser restaurant (see Gdańsk Restaurants), and Café Goldwasser on Długi Targ, part of the pleasure of drinking Machandel is the ritualistic way in which it’s done. As well as being enjoyed neat, the most interesting and common way Machandel was drunk was with the aid of a dried plum.

The accompanying pictures explaining the dried plum ritual are from a series of humorous prewar postcards featuring a muchloved actor from the National State Theatre of Danzig, Gustav Nord. The main points are that a dried plum should be placed in a chilled glass, equally cold Machandel poured over it, the dried plum removed with the stick and eaten and the Machandel knocked back in one. Finally the stick is snapped in two and placed inside the glass. Failure to do this carries a fine of buying the next round. Other variations on this theme exist, all of them coming with their own penalty.

The other Machandel talking point is the bottle it comes in. Reminiscent of the little wooden barrels local farm workers used to take to the fields with them along with their usual quota of cheese, bread and ham, the new Machandel will be available in their original style of containers.

114 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

MAŁA SZTUKA In the centre of the city, yet easily missed, this small bar tucked away in the basement of a building overlooking the water near the Green Gate has built a loyal following for its excellent cocktail menu. Remarkably they operate a ‘nostanding’ policy so if there are no seats available you’ll have to wait or come back later. Once you get served you’ll find a very friendly bar staff will deliver a memorable evening.

QC‑5, ul. Powroźnicza 13/15, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 516 36 60 60. Open 17:00 - 01:00. W MINISTERSTWO ŚLEDZIA I WÓDKI NEW The latest in the ‘Snacks and Shots’ style bars to hit Gdansk, this one is part of a huge chain who clearly have discovered a winning formula. The regulars are clearly drawn by the lively atmosphere, the 80s tribute to the PRL in terms of decor and music and the cheap as chips prices. There’s typical old-fashioned bar food such as pork in jelly, herring, bread and lard and pickles and we recommend you try them to help you survive the shots of chilled vodka. With snack at 8zl and drinks at 4zl a piece, an evening here can get enjoyably messy.QB‑3, ul. Targ Drzewny 3/7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 795 85 11 10, www.msiw.eu/gdansk. Open 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. U­6­W MORZE PIWA A friendly multi-tap bar a little hidden away just off the main Kosciuszko Square which brings the central area a taste of a backstreet, hipster bar with cheap furnishings and a board games corner. The beers change regularly so pick one from the chalk board and the barman will pour you’re a shot glass taster before you order. We liked the 7 but that probably had something to do with a woman at the bar offering us a kiss if we ordered it (she think she was trying to win a barrel of the stuff ). The crowd are friendly and that and the beer sees us always include it on a pub crawl of Gdynia.QO‑2, Skwer Kościuszki 13, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 505 90 48 09. Open 16:30 - 24:00, Fri 16:30 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 6­W PIWNICA RAJCÓW (THE COUNCILLORS’ CELLAR) Piwnica Rajcow is the Polish name for what was once the city’s Ratskeller, the cellar of the town hall. One thing which make Gdansk’s Ratskeller remarkable is that it’s not in the basement of the town hall (Rathaus or Ratusz) but instead in the cellars of Dwor Artusa (Artushof ) and you can access it via the doorway next to the Neptun fountain. The place itself is remarkable with a labyrinth of large and small rooms which have been beautifully remodelled. The major draw is the beer which you will see being brewed in huge vats in the main bar area by the owners, a family-owned brewery from the Warmia region of Poland. There is a very good and well priced menu and you’ll also find a number of screens which are used to show sporting events. Make sure to try out their beer dispensers which allow to serve yourself as little as a taster or as much as a jug by using one of their debit cards.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 44 03, www.piwnicarajcowgdansk.pl. Open 10:00 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. T­B­S­6

Nightlife PUB POLSKIE KINO As the name suggests the bar is themed on Polish film though if you’re visiting from abroad you won’t know most if any of the references. Don’t panic. Buy your neighbours a couple of shots of one of the nalewki on offer (spirits flavoured over time with fruit or herbs) and within no time at all you’ll be up to speed on Wajda, Kieślowski or the Polish comic actors depicted on the walls. Popular, cheap and friendly, they offer a couple of great local beers in Złote Lwy and Żywe as well as a wide selection of local bottled craft beers.QC‑4, ul. Szeroka 97, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 506 40 77 18. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. 6­W STARY MANEŻ BROWAR VREST While your main reason for visiting Stary Maneż on the Garnizon complex will be to see a performance in the main hall, it’s not the only excuse. The ground floor bar/restaurant offers an eclectic menu of tapas and snacks as well as a concise choice of starters, salads and mains including ribs in beer and honey and seafood curry. They also have, as you’ll immediately notice from the large brass vats, their own beer called Vrest, which is made using German hops and named using a play on an earlier name for the Wrzeszcz district – Wrzos meaning heather. The light and dark are both pretty good by own-brew standards and pair up well with the tapas to provide some sustenance before and after a concert next door.QF‑1, ul. J. Słowackiego 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 760 70 10, www.starymanez.pl.

Open 09:00 - 24:00. E­6­W TAPAS DE RUCOLA This casual tapas bar has developed into one of Sopot’s most fashionable destinations. Serving an array of Andalusia-inspired and authentic small tasting dishes, all for 12zł each, a friendly mix of customers nibble away at chorizo sausages and Serrano ham while slugging down Spanish wines and the excellent, local Złote Lwy (Golden Lions) on draft. With a colourful interior of imitation-Picasso mural art and a carefree atmosphere, Tapas really packs out after siesta, particularly on weekends when the party lasts long into the morning. Make sure to try their homemade ‘pear’ spirit (Gruszkówka) which is potent and the mutton pierogi.QN‑3, ul. Pułaskiego 15/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 55 01, www.tapassopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. B­6­W THE DOCKER’S INN A more British style boozer in the Tri-city, you will not find. There’s a long bar and lots of comfy seating with a mix of bottled and draft beers (including some local Kashubian brews) as well as a pretty good pint of draft Guinness. There’s some pretty good snack food available too while watching the football on one of the screens. It’s a welcoming place, there’s a steady flow of customers and it’s one of the places where you’re more likely than not bump into an English-speaking resident.QO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 710 67 02. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. U­W

POLISH ALCOHOL Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. Here are some other local favourites you might like to try.

GOLDWASSER A celebrated Gdańsk tradition since 1598, Goldwasser is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in the world, Goldwasser’s secret recipe contains some 20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint.

WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry flavoured variety. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, it’s best enjoyed when sipped on ice. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest that straddles the border (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending which part of PL you’re in. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 115

Nightlife ADULT ENTERTAINMENT

CLUBS

A sign that a city is on the up in the tourism market has to be the appearance of strip clubs. That’s not to say Gdansk didn’t have any strip joints before the increase in visitors, but in recent times clubs have opened in much more prominent city centre locations and their‘marketing’efforts have become much more aggressive. It is now impossible as a man, without the company of a woman, to walk along the main street, ul. Dluga. in the evening without being approached with a flyer. This is a problem affecting most major Polish cities and the local governments and law enforcement seem unable to stop it.

ATELIER Ever had the desire to swim naked in the Baltic after a night getting trollied to punk anthems, 80s remixes and Euroshit dance din? Then step into Atelier, a madhouse venue where good times are as certain as the hangover that follows. The toilets look like they’ve been hit by a typhoon, but that does nothing to stop the least preened up crowd in Sopot having a right messy knees-up and enjoying life to the max. They’ve actually had a recent refurb, but would you notice?QN‑3, Al. Mamuszki 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 89 06, www.klubatelier.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. U­W

While we do not advise against visiting any of the strip clubs in Gdansk, we would recommend dealing only in cash to avoid any chance of misunderstandings over what should and shouldn’t be charged to your credit card. In recent years various strip clubs have been accused by customers of card fraud but in every case they have been found not guilty by the courts.

If you’re looking for a strip club in town you’ll not have to search too far and all we’ll say is keep your wits about you, go easy on the Polish spirits and enjoy the show.

Gdansk can ‘proudly’ boast a choice of strip clubs in the heart of its beautiful and historic old-town and for those less observant, the club has a group of young women who patrol the streets of the city from late afternoon onwards, ready to pounce on any man not visibly with a woman who determinedly try to convince you to visit their club.

We find the whole thing, not just tacky, but really annoying. Don’t misunderstand - we’re familiar enough with this branch of the entertainment business and indeed won a court case in Poland some years back when the owner didn’t like our description of his employees as looking like the bulimic victims of a sun-bed incident. What gets us is that these women pester visitors to death, a situation made worse by the smaller crowds out of season. Despite the constant harassment, local law enforcement are powerless to do anything about it and so expect to be bothered to within an inch of your life if you are a man/men going for a stroll through the old town in the evening.

We’re still considering the idea of dressing up in a pair of tight shorts and propositioning single women on the street to come and watch our friends take their clothes off. We are interested to see how the police might react to that.

You’ll find details of the current clubs on our website with reviews. Our advice is use these businesses on your guard; check the price of everything you purchase and use cash this will avoid any unnecessary misunderstandings.

116 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

BUNKIER KLUBOGALERIA Jaw-dropping. On ul. Olejarna stands a six-storey, reenforced concrete cube built as an air-raid shelter, bunker and anti-aircraft battery by the Germans during WWII. It now operates as one of the most visually stunning clubs and live music venues in the country. Get past the rather large, black-suited chaps on the door and you’ll be met with the original corridors flanked by 1.2 metre thick walls which lead into a labyrinth of bars, dancefloors, seating areas and some of the most fantastic toilets we’ve ever seen. Each level is different with our favourite being the caged seating featuring military bunks and for some reason an electric chair on level 3 or 4 (or 5 we can’t be sure in the light of day). The bars are well-stocked and manned by friendly staff; prices are surprisingly low and the mix of original features (lighting, exposed pipes) and artistic touches will have you reaching regularly for your camera phone. Once you’ve finished looking around you’ll find it’s not a bad club either.QC‑3, ul. Olejarna 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 530 91 77 88, www.bunkierclub.pl.

Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 04:00, Closed Mon. X­E­W DREAM CLUB There’s wow factor galore inside Dream Club, but unless you take your fashion tips from Maxim and Vogue there’s little chance of seeing it. Door selection is tough; for lads a logo on the shirt and some sunglasses on your head work miracles, while for girls a pneumatic set of knockers is guaranteed to do the trick. The rewards are ample, with top DJs, a top lighting and sound set-up and a good-looking crowd.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 605 50 08 00. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

X­E­W HAH SOPOT Short for Heaven and Hell, the HAH clubbing chain is big on inclusivity; their clubs are gay-friendly and host occasional drag shows and pride parade after-parties. There’s plenty of room for hetero revellers as well, and their karaoke nights and hot latino music parties have a universal appeal.QN‑2, Al. Mamuszki 21 (next to beach entrance no. 13), Sopot, tel. (+48) 786 17 73 97, www.sopot.hah.com.pl. Open Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00 only. U­B

Nightlife NOCE I DNIE GARNIZON One of the more stunning venues on the Garnizon development, Noce i Dnie (Nights and Days) is a restaurant, cocktail bar and club located in the cellars of a beautifully restored 19th century building. There’s a large but, thanks to the cellar walls, cosy restaurant and bar which is the perfect place to kick off a special evening before heading into the club next door. QF‑1, ul. Słowackiego 19, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 509 57 75 77, www.nocednie.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. U­W SPATIF One of the enduring legends of Sopot, though utterly different from the Spatif of legend. The design is still the same – eclectic art and an avant garde style – the only thing that’s changed is the people who visit. What was once a den of beatniks and thesps has morphed into, dare we say it, the sort of place where plastic comes first; be it plastic boobs or the platinum card. Much of the crowd is markedly ‘older’ and we’re sure we’ve seen a few of those who used to talk revolution now relaxing here after a hard week in Brussels. It remains, surprisingly, hugely popular and as such has a strict door policy - whether you make it in or not, watch for the stairs.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 54, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 26 83, www.spatif. sopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. W TAN Sopot’s premiere nightclub is found hidden in the building housing Sopot’s cinema complex right on the main square.

The queues and the door policy are testament to its popularity and attempts to stay that bit classier than the local competition. With that in mind expect to see a slightly more mature, but by no means old, crowd often dressed to the nines and hellbent on having a good time. Well worth checking out and a class above many of the tackier nightspots in town.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 661 55 20 39. Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

X­W WTEDY A lot of Sopot’s late-night options can be best be described as ‘tacky’ so it’s encouraging to see a place that is prepared to do more than cheap alcohol. To find Wtedy (Then) head round the back and down the steps of the villa close to the main entrance of the train station. It’s unadvertised presence lends it a ‘in-the-know’ kind of feel while the crowd is a little older than on the ‘strip’ (but not as older as the dollies at the coat check). A vinyl-spinning DJ, excellent bar, separate vodka bar and limited seating mean the place can’t help but dance. Make sure to tip the little person working the bar generously.QM‑4, ul. Kościuszki 16, Sopot, www.wtedy.co. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00 only. X­B­W

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com

CROOKED HOUSE The Crooked in the building’s name refers to the architecture, not to how most of the clientele look as they leave, although it could. You can knock back shots in exchange for a handful of coins downstairs, sip cocktails with a good-looking crowd or dance the night away while dancers swing above your head on a trapeze on the upper levels.

Get your night going at Zła Kobieta

DREAM CLUB There’s wow factor galore inside Dream Club, but unless you take your fashion tips from Maxim and Vogue there’s little chance of seeing it. Door selection is tough; for lads a logo on the shirt and some sunglasses on your head work miracles, while for girls a pneumatic set of knockers is guaranteed to do the trick. The rewards are ample, with top DJs, a top lighting and sound setup and a good-looking crowd.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 605 50 08 00.

Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. X­E­W NA DRUGĄ NÓŻKĘ Na Drugą Nóżkę literally means ‘For the other leg’ which is a Polish phrase meaning something like ‘one for the road’. This is cheap and cheerful drinking. They have Tyskie on tap for 6zł and a more wide-ranging choice of cheap eats including burgers and tartare. For something different ask for one of their homemade flavoured vodkas.QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 535 99 89 85. Open 16:00 - 04:30, Mon, Tue, Sun 16:00 - 03:30. U­W ZŁA KOBIETA A great looking pre-club spot found up the stairs in the Crooked House. The cocktails come prepared by pleasant English-speaking staff and while this is a great place for pre-club drinks you can also find yourself trapped as the crowd kick off on the small dancefloor.

QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 606 85 39 30, www.zlakobieta.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00. X gdansk.inyourpocket.com 117

Leisure

Take a sauna and then jump into the Baltic at M15 Sopot (p. 115)

BOWLING & BILLIARDS AQUAPARK BOWLING Part of the Aqua Park complex, there are six lane available as well as a bar and pool table.QN‑1, ul. Zamkowa Góra 5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 585 55 85 23, www.aquaparksopot.pl.

Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Lane hire prices (per hour). Mon-Thu 16:00 - 17:00 - 29zł, 17:00 - 22:00 - 49 zł, Fri 14:00 - 17:00 - 39 zł, 17:00 - 24:00 - 59 zł, Sat 14:00 - 17:00 - 49 zł, 17:00 - 24:00 - 59 zł, Sun 14:00 - 22:00 - 49 zł.

CENTRUM U7 GDAŃSK When the weather’s less friendly outside this is a perfect escape. Found in an underground cavernous hall close to the Hala Targowa U7 offers 8 bowling lanes and 10 pool tables (known confusingly as ‘biliards’ in Poland) along with darts boards and table football tables. There’s also a bar and the ‘Fabryka Pizzy’ kitchen from which you can order up pizza, pasta and salads and they’ve a number of large screens dotted around so you can enjoy the match when you’re not playing yourself.QC‑3, Pl. Dominikański 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 55 77, www.u7.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Lane rental 35-75zł/hour depending on the day and time. Pool table hire 18zł/ hour.

GREEN CLUB We’ll be honest – we would once have been a little wary of travelling out to Zaspa for a night out let alone recommending a visitor do the same. That’s not the case anymore and if pool, called bilard in Polish, is your game 118 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

this is the place to spend an evening. Featuring 16 9-foot pool tables and 2 12-foot snooker tables you can risk not booking ahead despite its popularity. A well-stocked bar, bar-food, friendly staff and clientele and lots of TV screens and seating mean this is a great place for a night for watching or playing sport (or both as we typically do). Find it next to the Gdansk-Zaspa railway station.Qul. Hynka 69, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 761 82 93, www.greenclub. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30. Pool tables 18zł/hour. Snooker tables 22zł/hour.

CITY GAMES UNDERCOVER CITY GAMES City games are a great way to explore and have fun around the town and Undercover City Games currently run two interactive, spy-themed games in the Tri-city - “Lockdown” (Gdańsk) and “Under The Radar” (Sopot). Both games are available in English or Polish, take 90-120mins and can be played by smaller and larger groups alike. Prices start from 50 PLN per person and kids under 12 play for free.

Minimum 2 adults required. Qtel. (+48) 516 36 60 64, www.undercover-citygames.com. Open 09:00 - 20:30.

ESCAPE ROOMS ESCAPEROOMS If there are between 2 and 5 of you then give this a thought.

You basically get locked in a room for up to 60 minutes during which time you have to try to complete tasks and decode clues to escape. It’s great fun for those who prefer a cerebral challenge to a physical one although one colleague

Activities & Leisure said it might not be best suited to those who suffer from claustrophobia. There are six different rooms from which you can choose to escape with the Room of the Lost Child probably the eeriest.Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 739 09 48 52, www.gdansk. escaperooms.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Last entrance at 20:30. Mon-Thu 30-39zł per person and Fri-Sun 33-49zł per person (depends of the number of people in your group).

ROOM OF PLENTY An escape room themed around the story of Ludwig Plenty where you try to solve puzzles in the Communist Poland of the late 1960s.QC‑2, ul. Stolarska 6A/7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 350 00 81, www.roomofplenty.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

GO-CARTING KARTCENTER A new indoor go-carting track in the Galeria Morena shopping development, a 10 minute taxi drive from the old town. The state-of-the-art track is not yet open but we’ve heard that it’s being designed and developed by Italians, which makes it sound very F1. 16 brand new go-carts are on standby awaiting the launch which is due in mid-Jan. Qul. Szuberta 102A, Gdańsk, www.kartcenter.pl. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Race sessions last approx. 8 mins. 45zł.

PITSTOP ELECTRIC GO-CARTS The Pit-Stop team have 2 tracks on-site. The outdoor operates with petrol powered carts, while this indoor one uses electric ones. Don’t worry that you might be coasting around on a glorified vacuum cleaner though – these things are brand new and can shift – IF you can convince the Track Marshall to turn his handset control up. He has control over which of the three speeds your cart is set to and typically will check you are able to handle the machine before remotely changing the settings. Once you get it into third gear the cart really moves and the track is challenging enough to make it good fun. You will need to register for free first before you can use the carts but that is a simple process for insurance purposes and is done personally on a computer which has instructions in English.Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 731 38 38 38, www.pitstop-gdansk.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Prices start from 30zł for 8 minutes (Fri-Sun 35zł).

HALA OLIVIA SKATING RINK Go skate at the home of the local ice hockey team and the place where Solidarity held their landmark convention in 1980 which saw Lech Walesa become their leader.

One-hour skating sessions separated by half-hour breaks at 10:30,12:00,13:30,15:00,16:30,18:00 and 19:30.QAl. Grunwaldzka 470, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 552 20 91, www.stoczniowiec.org.pl. Open Sat, Sun 10:30 19:30. 12zł per hour, a 5 entrance pass costs 50zł and a 10 entrance pass 100zł. Skate rental 7zł.

SOPOT PIER SKATING RINK Open during the winter subject to the weather, this 35 x 18m outdoor skating rink can hold up to 100 people and is located right at the foot of Sopot pier. Equipment can be hired on-site for a few euros.QN‑3, by entrance to Sopot Pier, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 00 02. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 21:00. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission for each 1hr session 6zł (regardless whether you use the whole hour or only 5 minutes at the end), Sat and Sun 8zł. Skate rental 6zł. Helmet 6zł.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS CENTRUM NAUKI EXPERYMENT An excellent entertainment option in Gdynia particularly if you have younger children in tow. The Experyment Science Centre is found in a brand new glass building and forms the showpiece of the Pomeranian Science and Technology Park, one of the city’s proudest investments. The various interactive displays or ‘experiments’ are classified into one of four categories – Hydroworld, Operation-Human, The Tree of Life and Invisible Forces as well as a newly opened exhibition called ‘The Direction of Health (Kierunek Zdrowie)’. You are encouraged to discover the world around you and how it works by pushing, pulling, jumping and experiencing rather than simply looking. You’ll learn how different phenomenon in our everyday lives work and thanks to the English translations you as a foreign guest can gain a full understanding of each exhibit. Children will love it and though all set inside one large room, the number of experiments and the sheer enjoyment of it will keep them busy for hours.QO‑4, Al. Zwycięstwa 96/98, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 500 49 94, www.experyment.gdynia.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Closed September 3-14. Admission 20/12zł.

ICE SKATING CITY SKATING RINK Located in a huge bubble just outside the Old Town in the shadow of that huge cross. It’s 12/8zł for an hour with sessions starting every 90 minutes, and if you’ve made the mistake of travelling without your skates - silly you - then you can rent some out for 9zł. Family tickets (2 adults & 2 kids), 32zł.QPlac Zebrań Ludowych, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 69 64, www.scenamuzyczna.pl. Open 14:30 21:30, Closed Mon, Tue 14:30 - 20:00, Wed 14:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 21:30. Closed from March 4.

Centrum Nauki Experyment

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Activities & Leisure TRI-CITY FOOTBALL ARKA GDYNIA Arka Gdynia play at the modern 15,000 seater stadium built on the site of their old one at Gdynia-Redłowo.

Foreign visitors are best advised to take seats in one of the main stands (Trybuna Olimpijska or Trybuna Olimpijska B). Tickets can be bought at the Arka Gdynia fan shop next to the stadium in the lead-up to games.

2016/17 was a memorable season for Arka who managed to claim their first Polish cup in 38 years and survived in the top-flight on the last day of the season.

They began the 2017/18 season in fine style winning the Polish Super Cup but their run in Europe was short-lived after going out of the Europa League to FC Midtjylland in the qualifiers. Find their match dates and times in our What’s On section.QO‑5, ul. Olimpijska 5, Gdynia (Redłowo), tel. (+48) 58 785 30 70, www. arka.gdynia.pl. Tory 20/15zł. Trybuna Olimpijska 25/20zł. Trybuna Olimpijska B 41/36zł.

LECHIA GDAŃSK Supporters wishing to catch a game will get to see the wonderful Gdansk Energa Stadium found about 5km north of the old town close to the beaches at Brzeźno and home to local side Lechia Gdańsk.

Ticket prices start at 25/15zł rising to 65/45zł for the best seats. In Your Pocket recommends heading for sectors P or Q where you will have view, atmosphere and safety with prices also at a palatable 45/30zł. You can buy tickets in advance or on matchdays at the stadium ticket office. You’ll need to bring a form of identification so they can register you and sell you a ticket.

To get to the stadium from the centre of Gdansk you can either jump in a taxi which will set you back 20-25zł.

By public transport from the main station take the #7 tram or jump on the special local SKM train which runs to the Stadion Expo stop next to the ground. Note that this only runs on matchdays. The regular SKM services to Sopot and Gdynia do not travel to this station and instead you will need to get off at Gdańsk Politechnika and then take a 15 minute walk from there.

For the latest fixtures and kick-off times please check the ‘Sports’ section of our What’s On chapter.QEnerga Stadium, ul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 58 768 84 01, www.lechia.pl.

120 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

GDYNIA AQUARIUM A perfect place to visit on days when the weather forces you inside, the Gdynia Aquarium is stuffed with over 2,000 creatures and pint-sized guests will delight in seeing every one. Exhibits cover marine life from across the globe, such as the common snapping turtle, clownfish, electric eel and Amazon-dwelling giant arapaima, but also delve into the evolution of submersible technology through the decades. The third floor Baltic Room is devoted to understanding the sea literally right outside the Aquarium’s windows, but a history of the sea will take a backseat to the giant 44 kg cod – the largest creature ever caught in the Baltic – dangling over your head. There’s also something called ‘Akwarium pod lupą’ which literally means ‘Aquarium under the microscope’ and which allows you to examine very small fish swimming through magnified glass. English placards are spotty at best, so parents be prepared to make up origins for the colourful tomato clownfish and the pancake-like moonfish. A large open-air deck offers the idea place to take in aquatic views and have a snack if the weather permits.

QP‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 732 66 01, www.akwarium.gdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 28/19zł. Children under 4 free admission. Family tickets available with children up to 18 years of age 59zł to 79zł. Audioguides available for 2zł or you can download a version to your iPhone. U HEVELIANUM Set inside the guts of the Napoleonic-era Fort Gradowa Góra, set into the hill overlooking the city, the Centrum Hewelianum is a science park/museum built to honour Johannes Hevelius (Jan Heweliusz in Polish), the famed astronomer born in this city in 1611. The exhibition consists of two parts, the first of which is called Wehikuł Czasu - Człowiek i Pocisk (Time machine - the Human and the Bullet). Set inside the brick tunnels of this 19th century fortress, the exhibition recreates what the fort would have looked like when it was first built, its atmospheric corridors filled with cannons, weaponry and lifelike mannequins in period uniform. The second part of the exhibition is titled ‘Z energią’ (With Energy). This does a good job of making sense of science in a fun manner that’s accessible to all ages. Featuring plenty of machines, computers and interactive gadgets this is one of those museums that encourages visitors to get hands on. Keep an eye out for a WWII anti-aircraft battery located in the grounds. You’ll also find a set of exhibits under the titles ‘Around the World’; ‘Puzzle’; ‘Time Machine - Fun with History’ and ‘Pan Kleks’ Laboratory’ which is based on the character of a popular Polish children’s book.Qul. Gradowa 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 742 33 52, www. hewelianum.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Wehikuł Czasu Człowiek i Pocisk exhibition: Admission free. Pan Kleks Laboratory exhibition: Admission 15zł. All other parts of the exhibition: Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 45zł. Y

Activities & Leisure JUMPCITY A lot of fun for the kids. An old industrial unit in the port area has been cleaned up and dozens of industrial strength trampolines have been installed. They whole area combined must be close to the size of a football field. There are different areas, each safely netted off from the others and most importantly the ground, so you can throw yourself into the fun fully without fear of flying off. Perfect for rainy day and kids’ parties you buy tickets for periods of an hour with the first hour starting at 12:00 (last at 21:00). Also find them in Gdansk at ul. Grunwaldzka 355.QO‑1, ul. Tadeusza Wendy 7/9, Gdynia (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 58 380 07 70, www.jumpcity.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Individual entry 32zł per hour (28zł online). Children up to 7 free with an adult. Group tickets (from 6 people) 28zł per hour (24zł online). Non-slip socks (mandatory) 5zł.

LOOPY’S WORLD A Swedish-born chain of entertainment centres aimed specifically at kids aged 13 and under. This place is as mad as they come, with features including electric cars, mini-basketball, penalty shootouts, slides, trampolines and even a train. The new face of playgrounds and the sort of place that has you wishing you were a nipper. ‘Budowisko’ gives kids the chance to build using 1,100 building blocks while the Virtual Reality google are very popular.QL‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 229, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 347 73 10, www.loopys.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 46zł. From September prices are 32zł/2 hours, 36zł/ 3hours and entry for the whole day for 40zł. At weekends there is an unlimited time ticket for 46zł per child. Children over 13 and parents/carers free.

PAPUGARNIA Basically a large room with various branches and perches with dozens of exotic birds which you are not just invited to view but also to interact with. You can also buy seed to feed and attract the birds.Qul. Schuberta 1A/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 355 05 04. Open, Open 10:30 - 18:30; Mon 12:00 - 18:30; Sat, Sun 13:00 - 14:30, 15:30 - 18:30.

Admission 19/15zł, family ticket 31-56zł.

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS GDAŃSK ZOO One of Poland‘s best zoos, set in the forests of Oliwa and at a fraction of the price of visiting a western zoo. On show are a host of wild animals with the kids‘ favourites being the lions, elephants, hippos, chimpanzees and giraffes. On a pleasant day it is quite possible to spend most of the day here as the park makes for a pleasant and quite exhausting walk and there are additional attractions such as staggered feeding times, a train tour of the whole park and a central food area with some small kids’ rides for the kids (not in winter). Bus N°179 runs from the Oliwa Pętla stop all the way to the front gate.QJ‑1, ul. Karwieńska 3, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 552 17 51, www.zoo.gda.pl. 1 Jan - 31 Mar: Open 09:00 - 15:00. 1 Apr - 30 Apr: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 30/25zł. From September 25/20zł. From November admission 15/10zł. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 121

Activities & Leisure BLOFELD James Bond; roving womanizer, man of mystery and secret agent supreme. But what’s he got to do with Gdynia? Absolutely nothing, to be precise. His nemesis does, however. Swivelling in his leather armchair, and never without his trademark Persian pussycat, the evil Blofeld will need no introduction to fans of classic Bond. Fictitious he might be, but don’t let that ruin a good yarn. First appearing in Ian Fleming’s 1964 novel ‘Thunderball’ it is revealed that Blofeld was born in Gdynia on May 28, 1908 – sharing the same birth date as his creator. The son of a Polish father and a Greek mother the young Blofeld attended the University of Warsaw, studying economics and political history, before enrolling in Warsaw Polytechnic to read engineering. He was later employed in the Ministry of Posts and Telegraphs and dabbled in the Warsaw Stock Exchange. With WWII looming on the horizon he sold Polish military secrets to the Nazis, before destroying all records of his life and fleeing to Turkey. It was while working for Turkish radio that he set up his own intelligence service, and proved what a thoroughly nasty piece of work he was by selling classified information to the highest bidder. With Rommel vanquished on the plains of Africa Blofeld chose to back the Allies, and his sterling work was recognised in the form of several decorations. With the war over he founded SPECTRE, a criminal organization with designs on world domination. Blofeld failed to appear in Fleming’s follow-up book, The Spy Who Loved Me, but made a return in ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’.

Here Bond discovers Blofeld living in Switzerland under the pseudonym of Comte de Bleuville. His wicked plan to destroy Britain’s agricultural economy is foiled

by Bond, but Blofeld has the last laugh by murdering the agent’s wife at the end. ‘You Only Live Twice’ sees 007 reunited with his arch-enemy, this time in Japan where Blofeld is plotting a World War. Bond saves the day, and also takes the ultimate revenge for the death of his spouse by throttling Blofeld. On the silver screen Blofeld first materializes in ‘From Russia With Love’, and then in ‘Thunderball’. His appearance is kept a mystery however, and viewers are only treated to a shot of his face in his third cinematic outing, the 1967 flick ‘You Only Live Twice’. Memorably portrayed by Donald Pleasance the megalomaniac carries a facial scar attributed to a fencing injury, and boasts a piranha infested pond used to despatch his enemies. Unlike the book Blofeld survives the ending, and makes a return in the 1969 version of ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’.

Played by a sinister looking Telly Savalas Bond’s archenemy mimics his literary exploits by killing Bond’s missus at the end. Since then Bond films have been a dime-a-dozen, with villain and rogues aplenty; none however come close to achieving the cult status of Gdynia’s most sinister son.

122 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

PAINTBALL 3 TOWN PAINTBALL Found in the remains of a huge, WWII concrete bunker once used to assemble U-Boats, these chaps can organise paintballing at anytime - 24/7 - in a 3,000m² space featuring bunkers, corridors and weird lighting.

QC‑1, ul. Lisia Grobla, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 505 35 05 45, www.3townpaintball.pl. Open by prior arrangement.

ELECTRONIC PAINTBALL ZOLTAR APOKALIPSA A popular alternative to paintball, this is combat of a similar nature except here you are wearing a vest containing electronic sensors and you’re firing lasers at each other. There is a choice of weapons and the area which you compete is spread over a 1,000m2 in the bowels of the stadium. There are plenty of obstacles such as a jeep and tank and raised platforms around which to scramble as you try to inflict the maximum damage on your opponents while avoiding their fire. If you are hit your weapon is deactivated for 10 seconds and at the end you are given a read-out of the number of shot and hits you made and took. It’s great fun for groups or even individuals to compete with others. We’ve been there as a group of adults and friends have held children’s birthday parties here and everyone has had equal fun.

Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 733 87 08 70, www.funarena.pl/project/zoltarapokalipsa. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Tickets – 25zł/20zł for 30 minutes (28zł/25zł Fri-Sun), 38zł/35zł for an hour (40zł/38zł Fri-Sun), 58zł/55zł for 2 hours (70zł/65zł FriSun). Prices are cheaper for more than 6 people.

SKIING The north of Poland can hardly be described as alpine but there are a number of slopes in the region, including one in the Tri-city itself at Sopot, which open as soon as there’s enough snow as well as one indoor option. ŁYSA GÓRA (ŁYSA HILL) One ski-tow, floodlights, perfect for beginners. Also good for sledging or just having mulled wine in the chalet. Open only when there’s snow on the ground.Qul. Herberta 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 501 35 96 98, www.lysa-gora.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Ski set rental available for 25zł/2h. Every additional hour 5zł.

PACZOSKOWO A 270m long slope with a single lift set in the countryside close to Kartuzy (3km from Przodkowo) in a village called Kosowo. There’s ski hire and coaching available while the friendly people can also organise Kuligi (horse pulled sleigh rides) if you give them a call beforehand on (+48) 501 35 57 79.QKosowo 132, Przodkowo, tel. (+48) 733 47 20 01, www.paczoskowo.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Open subject to weather. Ski-lift - 10 rides cost 15zl. Weekends 10 rides cost 20zl.

Activities & Leisure SKIMONDO Perfect for those who like to ski but don’t want to wait until it snows. These are two, state-of-the-art, moving, yearround indoor ski ‘belts’ which recreate the sense of downhill skiing using a special surface which gives the sense of skiing on snow. Inclined at 13 degrees the belts can reach speeds of up to 25km/hour so it is perfectly possible to ski the equivalent of 4km downhill in just 10 minutes.

Instructors are on hand to keep an eye on proceedings and are also able to provide skiing lessons. Equipment is available to hire and although you are permitted to bring your own boots, you’ll need to use their special skis. Note you should give them a call to book in advance to avoid disappointment.QAl. Grunwaldzka 355, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 355 05 50, www.skimondo.pl. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00, Please phone ahead to confirm if space is available and to make a reservation.

70zł per 60 minutes. Equipment rental costs extra.

WIEŻYCA SKI SLOPE Small ski hill with nine runs, equipment rental, food points including a restaurant and bar, night-skiing and artificial snow makers for when nature doesn’t provide enough of the white stuff itself.QWieżyca, tel. (+48) 58 684 38 16, www.wiezyca.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 22:00, Open subject to weather. Price per run 2/1.60zl (weekdays), 2.50/2zl (weekends and holidays). 2 hour tickets 50/40zl, 4 hour tickets 65/60zl, 6 hour tickets 75/70zl. All-day tickets 95/90zl. ​Card deposit - 20zl.

ZIELONA BRAMA While northern Poland is hardly the Alps there are opportunities to go skiing in the countryside surrounding Gdansk. Located about 30km south-west of Gdansk you’ll find one of the longest ski lifts in the whole of Pomerania.

On offer are skiing lessons, ski rental, snow-tubing (sliding down a hill on an inflatable rubber tube) and sleigh rides.

Slope operates subject to weather and you should bring cash rather than a card.Qul. Gdańska 26, Przywidz, tel. (+48) 58 682 51 55, www.nartyprzywidz.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Open subject to weather. A 60 minute ski lesson costs from 70zł per person (50zł per person for 2 people, 40zł for 3; 35zł for 4-5 people) Big ski lift : one lift 1,80/1,50zł (weekdays) 2,40/2,00zł (weekends). Time tickets for 1hr: 09:00 - 16:00 - 65/50zł, 16:00 - 22:00 55/45zł, all day ticket (09:00 - 22:00) 75/65zł.

Baby lift: one lift 1zł, carnet of 11 lifts 10zł. Snowtubing 1 ride 2zł, carnet (11 rides) 20zł Sleigh rides cost 10zł/child, 15zł/adult. for an hour long ride with tea included.

Ski rental costs 20zł/2hrs and 5zł for every additional hour. Snowboard rental costs 30zł/2hrs and 5zł for every additional hour.

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THE KASHUBIANS The Kashubians are a true ethnic minority, distinct from the Poles in both language and culture. Originally western Slavs with ethnic links to the Poles, the Kashubians are believed to have settled in the area around 1,500 years ago, although the first records date from the 13th century when the Pomeranian Dukes included ‘Duke of Kashubia’ among their illustrious titles. Estimates as to just how many Kashubians and people of Kashubian descent live in Poland today vary wildly. In Poland’s 2002 census just 5,100 people declared Kashubian nationality, whilst 51,000 declared Kashubian as their native language.

Kashubian is a West Slavic language belonging to the Lechitic group of languages of northern Poland, and is thought to be a variation of the original Pomerian language. Kashubian enjoys legal protection in Poland as a minority language, is taught in Polish schools, and can be found on many street signs in the region.

One of the things you’ll notice all over Kashubia is the proliferation of folk art, both religious and secular. Of the many folk art disciplines, the Kashubians pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just five colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, of which the latter comes in three distinct shades. Green represents the forests, red the fire and blood shed in defence of the homeland, yellow the sun, black the earth and the three shades of blue representing the sky, the lakes and the sea. Ceramics has a centuriesold tradition in Kashubia, and again the designs are simple. Kashubian ceramics are decorated with a number of traditional designs including the Kashubian star, fish scales and local flowers, all embellished with wavy lines and dots. The Kashubians are also great weavers even managing to weave buckets and jugs from pine roots and straw capable of holding water.

The Kashubians are also well known for a style of primitive painting on glass, woodcuts, and wooden sculptures including roadside chapels known as the Passions of Christ. Wood is also carved into elaborate walking sticks, animal heads and musical instruments, including the extraordinary burczybas, similar to a double bass but in the shape of a barrel with a horse hair tail. A bizarre instrument indeed, a burczybas is played by a total of three musicians. The Kashubians are great snuff takers, making it themselves and giving it to visitors as a sign of joy, good luck and an invitation to meet again. Traditional Kashubian snuffboxes are made from cattle horns that are boiled, flattened, and cut into unique shapes.

The Kashubians believe strongly that all of these things mark them out as an individual race. Many Kashubians even believe themselves to be the last surviving tribe of the ancient Balts. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 123

Activities & Leisure SLEIGH RIDES If you’ve come from a country where the ‘Fun police’ and litigation have killed a lot of the fun you remember having as a child you’re likely to love this. Great fun during the day with the kids or great fun in the evening with vodka, you can go sledging through the countryside on one of the horse drawn sleighs with bonfires organised mid journey.

Those who would like a little extra excitement should sit themselves down on one of the small wooden sledges tied to the back of the sleigh and try to stay on. You’re pretty much guaranteed to fall off, sometimes at speed, but we love it. Bring something to drink. Bring sausages.

Your driver will make the fire for you and then bring you back. Prices and lengths of trip are for you to negotiate with one of the drivers waiting for your business in the centre of the village of Szymbark found about 45km from Gdansk, but you should expect to pay around 20zl per person.

KOLANO STABLES Two horses pull one big carriage through the shadowy Kashubian woods. Sausages, hot drinks and a bonfire are the bonus, as well as the opportunity to see the world’s longest wooden plank in Szymbark (really). Nighttime rides are also available with torches. Organisers speak English and German. Price per person is 20zł for adults, 15zł for children. Snow necessary of course.

QKolano 74, Wieżyca, tel. (+48) 58 684 38 93, www. stadninakolano.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

U FRANKA A small and friendly company offering sleigh rides in winter or farm wagon rides in the summer through the Kashubian forests. During the winter, when the snow falls, they offer trips during the day and the evening with an optional picnic stop available. Lasting about an hour an a half these can be great fun in the winter when they tie wooden sledges to the back of the sleigh and wizz you across the snow. Night trips involve carrying burning torches and can include a bonfire when you can enjoy grilled sausages and a warming drink or two, though remember to bring your own. You need to book direct and they might insist on a minimum of 8 people to harness the horses but this being Kashubia, you can definitely bargain with them.Qul. Szymbarskich Zakładników 3, Szymbark, tel. (+48) 603 95 69 58, www.kulig-szymbark.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

35zl for night ride, 30zl for day ride bonfire included in price.

SWIMMING AQUAPARK Found just off the main Gdańsk-Sopot-Gdynia road (nearest train station Sopot Kamienny Potok) the complex consists of a three-lane, 25m long pool, a recreational swimming pool featuring cascades and a water grotto and a pool specially designed for children featuring slides, geysers and water cannons. The biggest pull for the kids are the two 124 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

slides and the ‘Wild River’. A seasonal outdoor pool with slides and climbing frames is also open during the summer.

QN‑1, ul. Zamkowa Góra 5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 85 23, www.aquaparksopot.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sauna open 11:00 - 22:00. SPA open 12:00 - 21:00. Pool tickets.

30zł/25zł/1 hr, 55zł/49zł/3 hrs, 79/69zł all day. A family is described as a minimum of 1 child and a maximum of 2 parents. This qualifies the parents to buy the reduced tickets when available.

AQUAPARK REDA Great fun, but very popular, water park found about 15 minutes drive north of Gdynia. There’s 5 slides and a treasure island pirate theme with the signature attraction being a shark pool which you can travel through on a rubber ring. There are often long queues at weekends but this is the best water park in the region.Qul. Morska 5, Reda, tel. (+48) 58 382 35 00, www.aquaparkreda. pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. From September open Sun-Thu 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. 1-hour ticket on weekdays 20/15zł (concessions); Weekends and public holidays 25/20zł, Summer season 30/25zł. 3-hour ticket on weekdays 35/30zł; Weekends and public holidays 45/35zł; Summer season 60/50zł. All-day ticket on weekdays 50/40zł; Weekends and public holidays 55/45zł; Summer season 80/60zł. Families are defined as 2 children and 2 adults or 1 adult and 3 children.

Weekdays 70zł/3 hours, 110zł/all-day. Weekends and public holidays 90zł/3 hours, 130zł/all-day. Summer season 120zł/3 hours, 160zł/all-day.

TRAMPOLINING JUMPCITY The largest trampoline park in northern Poland at 2,000m2, Jump City is a lot of fun for all ages particularly when the weather isn’t the best. Find them also in Gdynia at ul.

Tadeusz Wendy 7/9.QAl. Grunwaldzka 355, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 380 80 88, www.gdansk.jumpcity.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Individual entry 32zł per hour (28zł online). Children up to 7 free with an adult. Group tickets (from 6 people) 28zł per hour (24zł online). Non-slip socks (mandatory) 5zł.

TRAMPOLINE PARK NOGRAVITY Good fun for the kids although we have seen bigger trampoline centres in the city. However when put with the electronic paintball, the video games and the carting, the whole thing makes an impressive package to keep the Munchkins entertained during inclement weather.Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 733 87 08 70, www.funarena.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Price start from 20/15zł for 30 minutes.

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Blissful relaxation at the Magnifique Grand Spa LUXURIATE IN OUR WELLNESS CENTER, UNWIND IN OUR SWIMMING POOL WITH SEA VIEW AND EXPERIENCE EXCLUSIVE RITUALS. ENJOY RELAXING MASSAGES AND PAMPER YOURSELF WITH OUR FACIAL TREATMENTS. OUR SOFIT GYM WILL MOTIVATE YOU TO WORK OUT, WHICH WILL IMPROVE YOUR MOOD. DISCOVER EXCEPTIONAL MOMENTS AND ALLOW YOURSELF TO LET EVERYTHING GO IN OUR LUXURIOUS GRAND SPA.

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Spa & Wellness was constructed in record time between September 30th 1909 and 15th June 1910. The new Resort House was like nothing that had come before, containing snazzy modcons like boilers, cold storage rooms and a telephone switchboard. Pride of place went to a 540 sq/m concert hall known as the Red Room. Good times were seen as key to success, and as such the Resort Square side was given over to restaurants with a combined capacity for over 2,000 guests.

The third Resort House c. 1912

Back in the early 19th century, when Frenchman Jean Georg Haffner returned to Sopot, his aim was to build a spa and health resort in the wonderful place he’d discovered while marching east as a doctor with Napoleon’s army some years before.

In 1823, he opened the first Bath House (Warmbad to the Germans) which offered a range of treatments and baths.

The first Resort House (Salon or a Kursaal) was opened in 1824, changing rooms added on the beach and a small pier built.

Haffner died in 1830, but his legacy didn’t. Stewardship passed into the hands of the Böttcher family who added another storey to the Resort House, featuring 12 modest hotel rooms, while Haffner himself entered folklore, today revered as the father of modern Sopot. It’s for this reason you’ll find the town bristling with hotels, streets and monuments in his honour.

When Sopot, or Zoppot as it was then known, was connected by rail to Berlin in 1870, the resort’s popularity grew. The existing buildings were pulled down and a new complex, in effect the second Resort House was built.

Opened in 1881, this symmetrically fronted building with its two towers faced the sea featured a magnificent vestibule opening onto the restaurants and a ballroom and more hotel rooms were added. The square (Kurgarten) separated the Resort House from the beach and spacious walking galleries were added in 1895.

The square itself was extended from 6,000 to 9,000m², an 80-room hotel built and the brick verandas added on the eastern side. These wind breaks were replaced by galleries in 1928, and still exist in their original form.

In 1919, and with Sopot about to become part of the Free City of Danzig, the famous casino came into being with Roulette played in one room, Baccarat in another and a Kasino bar in the third. This was to become the focal point of Sopot and the inter-war period saw the town experience its golden age.

Even though the spa town lost its shine under communism, people from all over the country came here to take in the fresh air - walking along the beach path is particularly popular for the exposure to iodine that it supposedly gives you. In fact children from the industrial south are still sent here by their schools each year. Now the Resort House has returned in its fourth incarnation. The development was formally opened to the public on July 18th, 2009 and the sparkling development hasn’t foregone the past – the rotunda is a faithful reproduction, while the fountain is a restored original.

Today Sopot offers a wide choice of spa and beauty treatments in some wonderfully elegant and thoroughly modern settings. The Tri-city has become exceedingly popular, particularly with our friends from across the water in Scandinavia and it’s now very typical to find visitors popping over for 2-3 nights to visit the spa, masseuse, hairdresser and beauty salons before dressing up and heading out for dinner and drinks. With that demand you’ll find most hotels now have spa and stay breaks in their range of offers and here we’ve tried to highlight the best and the most memorable.

There was a concert arena located in the northern wing of the Resort Square (recreated next to the Sheraton) and the area was crowned by a magnificent fountain in 1903.

Still the resort grew and in 1903 and 1907 new complexes of baths were added and the pier extended by 160m in 1910. The Second Resort House, barely 30 years old, and despite renovations, was no longer suitable for the demands placed upon it, and in 1909 it was levelled to the ground and replaced by a third. Gdansk architect Carl Weber designed and built the new Resort House which 126 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

The Grand Hotel is part of the original complex

Spa & Wellness THAO THAI 86/87 SZEROKA STREET, GDANSK OLD TOWN TEL. +48 666 120 150 THAOTHAI.PL

THAO THAI

THAO THAI SPA 21 SPICHRZOWA STREET, GDANSK OLD TOWN TEL. +48 500 460 760 THAOTHAISPA.PL

ORIGINAL THAI MASSAGE & SPA

Feel the positive flow of energy. Restore your balance and barmony of the body.

To learn about the positive influence of Thai massage visit our website www.thaothai.pl

OPEN: MONDAY-SUNDAY 12.00-22.00 FIND US ON TRIPADVISOR!

Remove stress with luxury Aromatherapy Associates treatments and do not miss the rooftop pool, steam and dry sauna experience. www.urbanspa.com.pl +48 58 7787 255 urban.spa@hilton.com Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, 5th floor at Hilton Gdansk hotel gdansk.inyourpocket.com 127

Spa & Wellness weight room and sauna available.QN‑2, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 53, www.hotelhaffner.pl.

Swimming pool open 07:00 - 22:00. Treatments 07:00 22:00 by prior reservation.

JACQUES ANDRÉ A complete beauty and spa service under one roof. Found just on the edge of Gdansk old town where you will find a team of experts to pamper you to within an inch of your life. You’ll find hairdressers and stylists, cosmetologists, masseurs and manicurists who are all specialists in different forms of their particular fields and they also offer aesthetic medicine. QB‑3, ul. Elżbietańska 9/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 06 63, www.jandre.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.

GRAND SPA Find a wide range of Sopot spa treatments in the luxurious surroundings of Sopot’s signature Grand Hotel, overlooking the gardens and beach. Also available are a hammam, sauna, gym and swimming pool.QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 85, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com.

Swimming pool and fitness centre open 07:00 - 22:00.

SPA open 07:00 - 22:00.

HOTEL HAFFNER SPA Located in the plush Haffner Hotel a range of spa and beauty treatments are available for guests and non-guests.

Included in their offer are massages, facials from 190zł, as well as a range of treatments including Babor, Alessandro, Etos Selwerd and Mesoestetic. Haffner also has a pool,

128 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

M15 SAUNSPOT Fancy a sauna without having to pay for the whole spa & beauty package, then this might be for you. These wooden cabins on the beach next to the M15 restaurant are open during the winter and early spring and you can join the ‘open’ sauna for as little as 45zł for 90 minutes. Alternatively you can rent out the Sauna 4U from 400zł for 90 minutes between up to 10 of you if you like your privacy. Check out some of their pictures which show some very keen customers running from the sauna into the frozen Baltic during the winter.

QN‑3, Al. Mamuszki 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 730 93 00 88.

Open 08:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Entrance every 90 mins from 08:00. 90 minutes 35-40zł; 3 hours 60-65zł.

MERA SPA The impressive Sopot Marriott Resort & Spa hotel offers a comprehensive range of spa and beauty treatments (including their own range of cosmetics) along with Finnish saunas and three indoor pools, another on the roof and four Jacuzzis, two outside and two inside. There are 32 modern treatment rooms offering everything from body and facial treatments to massage and complete spa packages specially designed for women, men, couples and even children. In good weather you have to finish with a drink at their rooftop bar and pool which are open all-year round.

QN‑5, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59 (Sopot Marriott Resort & Spa), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 80, www.mera-spa. com. SPA zone open 10:00 - 21:00; Fri 10:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Swimming pools open 07:00 - 22:00.

Spa & Wellness THAO THAI A well regarded Thai Massage close to the old town of Gdansk. The masseurs are all both Thai and experienced Thai masseurs. There are a number of treatments on offer including the traditional Thai Massage Nuad Phaen Boran. You’ll also find them at ul. Spichrzowa 21.QC‑4, ul.

Szeroka 86/87, tel. (+48) 666 12 01 50, www.thaothai.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00.

THE SPA AT SHERATON SOPOT The finest spa in Sopot, possibly Poland. Featuring select Ella Bache treatments pleasures that await include a dazzling swimming pool, Finnish sauna, steam room, a comprehensive range of massage therapies as well as facial and body treatments, manicure and pedicure. There’s also a pool and fitness room.QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 00, www. sheratonsopotspa.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

URBAN SPA The Urban Spa at The Wellness Hilton Gdansk Hotel’s standout feature is the unique sun deck on the 5th floor which offers you tremendous views over the river and the heart of the Old Town. Get rid of your stress with luxury treatments, a dip in their rooftop pool and in their steam and dry saunas. If you like physical activity, try one of the fitness programmes -Wednesdays at 19:00 there’s aqua aerobic and yoga on Sundays at 10:00.QD‑3, ul.

Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 72 55, www. hiltongdansk.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. C­D­F­w

SOMETHING IN THE WATER Sopot’s fame as a spa resort is built upon the waters of the St Adalbert’s Spring (Sw. Wojciecha).

According to our experts, the water here is high in bromide and iodine with large quantities of magnesium potassium and potassium iodine.

When watered down it is drinkable and used to replenish medical deficiencies and is recommended for gastrointestinal disorders. The waters are also recommended for bathing and are recommended for those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism.

Finally, you’ll notice these glass-domed ‘Inhalation Mushrooms’ in the Southern Park in Sopot. The water flowing up here comes straight from the spring and sitting here and breathing in the iodine filled air is recommended for a whole host of breathing complaints.

You can taste the water by popping into the café on the third floor of the Sopot Tourism Association’s point in the Dom Zdrojowy (Health House). The staff will happily explain how it works and fill you a cup direct from the spring. gdansk.inyourpocket.com 129

Shopping

Find a range of Italian produce at Dolce Vita delicatessen (p. 86)

It’s now easier to count the international brand names who are not present than those that are. So if your ambition is to shop until you drop while you are here we suggest the first place you look is at the list of hypermarkets and malls listed in our shopping section. While this is not a list of all, it is a selection of what we view as the best ones from each of the 3 cities. With Madison the most central in Gdansk’s Old Town, Galeria Baltycka the most convenient large mall in Gdansk, and Designer Outlet Centre the city’s largest discount outlet, you can sate most shopping desires there.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops in Poland have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations on Sunday trading have been in effect.

In 2018 trade has been allowed on only the first and last Sundays of each month, forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. Beginning in 2019, trade will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god).

Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following are those Sundays when shops are allowed to be OPEN: Dec. 2, 16, 23, 30 | Jan. 27 | Feb. 24 | March 31 April 14, 28 130 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

ALCOHOL There are a number of local drinks which will make for excellent presents and souvenirs none more so than the Gdansk signature drink - Goldwasser. Distilled in the city since the 17th century it is a sweet juniper based drink containing pieces of gold leaf making for a visually impressive gift. The original recipe was taken to Germany at the end of WWII and this ‘Original Der Lachs’ version can still be bought in the Pod Lososiem restaurant while a German resident of the city has created excellent boxed sets of Goldwasser which can be bought through his restaurant on the waterfront.

Poland is also home to some of the world’s best vodkas and while Chopin and Belvedere are regarded as the best Polish brands it is also worth keeping an eye for something called Zubrowka, a vodka flavoured with a type of grass from the primeval Bialowieza Forest in eastern Poland. Remarkably cheap in comparison to the other drinks mentioned here, it is usually drunk with apple juice in what is known locally as a tatanka.

Finally you will also find in selected places bottles of Nalewka which are vodka or spirit based alcohols which have been mixed with various fruits and left to age. They are often tastier and easier to drink than simple vodka and often come in attractive bottles which make for an attractive gift.

GOLDWASSER QC‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Shopping AMBER & JEWELLERY Baltic Gold, as it is often referred to, has been gathered and worked in the Gdansk area for over 6,000 years and is one of the major contributors to the city’s wealth over the centuries. The sight of locals (both amateur and professional) combing the beaches looking for pieces which have been washed up, particularly after a heavy storm, is still common.

There are countless workshops in the area which produce not just wonderful jewellery but all sorts of ornaments and souvenirs from this ancient stone. The heart of the Gdansk amber market is the picturesque Mariacka Street in the shadow of St. Mary’s Basilica in Gdansk which is lined with numerous stores and workshops.

Keep an eye for the International Amber Association’s certificate that guarantees the seller has been checked and deemed trustworthy. Another option is to take a tour of an amber workshop where you will see both how the stone is worked to turn it into the beautiful pieces you see mounted in finished jewellery and also learn how to spot a genuine and fake piece of amber.

To find out more about amber, its history in the city and what to look out for, take a look at our feature online at gdansk.inyourpocket.com.

AMBERSTYL WORKSHOP AND GALLERY (PRACOWNIA I GALERIA STYL) Owned and run by Zbigniew Strzelczyk, one of the most senior Amber Masters in Poland, who has been sourcing and working amber for over 40 years. Find him at his workshop/ gallery on the quayside next to the crane. Note that Mr. Strzelczyk was the master craftsman chosen to present amber and how it is worked to the UK’s Prince William and Princess Kate.QD‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 31, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 80, www.amberstyl.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

LILOU A favourite of members of our team for birthday presents.

Lilou are best known for their jewellery but what makes them different is the ability they give you to personalise a piece of jewellery so that it is unique to you. Choose your ring or bracelet or even cufflinks and then the friendly staff will take you through the various options that come with each and help you choose a design or pendant or engraving that makes it that bit special. Not limiting themselves to jewellery, you’ll can also choose from handbags or personal organisers with the same idea – choose one and then personalise it. They also have a webstore in English if you want to take a browse in peace and a second store in Gdynia at ul. Świętojańska 56.QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 126/127, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 16 06, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Read more reviews online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com gdansk.inyourpocket.com 131

Shopping MARKETS Once upon a time, these were the places where the bulk of shopping was done by locals. Rows and rows of kiosks would offer you anything they could get their hands on to sell and particularly in the post-1989 years these places positively thrived. The advent of the western style shopping mall and the huge out-of-town hypermarkets have turned these market places into little more than flea markets and the number of people using them has dropped dramatically. Still many people use them both out of habit and because prices tend to be cheaper so they can present an interesting look into what life used to be like. While products such as clothes and perfumes can now be bought in better quality elsewhere there are still bargains to be had and fruit and veg still tends to be fresher and cheaper here.

HALA TARGOWA GDAŃSK One of the strangest buildings in the city, the covered market wouldn’t look out of place posing as a provincial 19th-century train station in the south of France. Built in 1896 in a Neo-Gothic style, the market has recently been completely renovated at a cost of 20zł million, an act that led to the discovery of the foundations of one of the city’s oldest churches, the 12th century Church of St Nicolas, underneath the main market building. Amid the cheap clothing stalls and rows of meat and dairy produce, the church’s foundations have been left as they were found, providing a small, living archaeology museum in the basement along with a display of photographs, objects found during the excavations and drawings of how the church might have looked. You can also visit the Romanesque Cellars whose entrance can be found in the courtyard outside.QB‑3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 346 31 33. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. HALA TARGOWA GDYNIA One of the few places left in the Tricity where you can get that authentic old time shopping experience. While you won’t get the rough and tumble associated with Warsaw’s famous ‘Russian Market’, what you will find is a large Hala Targowa (Trading Hall) containing rows of independent traders offering everything from clothing to electronic equipment. Very popular with the visiting Swedish shoppers looking to pick up a bargain, the market is a glimpse into post-communist Poland before the arrival of the western style Hypermarket and Shopping Malls now so familiar in Poland. Find it close to Gdynia Main Railway station.QO‑2, ul. Wójta Radtkiego 36-40, Gdynia, www.haletargowegdynia. pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. SOPOCKI RYNEK A local market which opens on Tuesdays and Fridays for a mix of local produce, furniture and clothing.QM‑5, ul. Polna 8-12, Sopot, www.sopockirynek.pl. Open Tue, Fri 07:00 - 14:00 only.

132 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS Gdansk and Poland have a tumultuous history and the city is much changed to the way it looked 100 years ago.

A combination of huge WWII bombing, post-war Socialist planning and social and cultural change have changed the look completely of the people and the city. There are two series of photo album style books which capture this wonderfully with pictures of before, during and after the events of WWII. The first entitled ‘Byl Sobie Gdansk’ (There once was a Gdansk) is a series of books which were published by former Prime Minister Donald Tusk (a Gdanskian and Kashubian) in the years when he was a politician in Poland. You’ll recognise many of the old Gdansk, Wrzeszcz and Sopot streets and see how once people lived. Contrasting dramatically is a series published by photographer Maciej Kosycarz entitled Extraordinary Ordinary Photographs which presents the work of both himself and his father during the period 1945-2007 and which demonstrate the destruction of the city in 1945 and both the painstaking rebuilding and life in the People’s Republic in the years after. It is now available with English language captions.

Gdansk is also the former home of Nobel prize winning author Gunter Grass. His stories are often set against the backdrop of inter-war Danzig and none capture the time better than The Tin Drum, the work for which he was awarded the Literature prize. While these books will generally be available in major Tri-city bookshops, you’ll have to go online to pick up another recommended book – Sean Lester, Poland and the Nazi takeover of Danzig – which recounts the story of the Irishman and League of Nations High Commissioner Sean Lester who governed here between 1934 and 1937.

EMPIK Also at ul. Kołobrzeska 41c (Alfa Centrum, Przymorze), ul.

Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4), ul. Złota Karczma 26 (Park Handlowy Matarnia); in Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68 (N-2); in Sopot, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63 (M-4).

QB‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 66, www.empik.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES GALERIA SZTUKI KASZUBSKIEJ A fantastic little place if you are looking for local handicrafts to take home as gifts. The business is run by a mother and daughter and on certain days you’ll even find a granddaughter present. The daughter is a designer while the mother makes all the clothes by hand. Lots of wonderful gifts all based on the local Kashubian region’s traditions.QC‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 48, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 503 00 59 78, www.gskart.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From April open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

GDAŃSK, 126/127 Ogarna Street GDYNIA, 56 Świętojańska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Shopping ART GLASS

MADE BY HAND IN POLAND

DECORATION GIFTS & SOUVENIRS What we have tried to do here is highlight not just the better of the traditional souvenir shops but also try to bring your attention to local shops and companies who sell local products or products typically associated with the area.

First of all you are in the heart of the Kashubian region here, home to the Kashubian people one of the largest surviving ethnic minorities in Europe. Distinct from Poles in both language and culture the Kashubians are an integral part of modern Poland but also have a clear identity visible in their peculiar language, which sounds like a mix of Polish and German, and in their crafts. Kashubians particularly pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just five colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, the latter of which comes in three distinct shades. Green represents the forests, red the fire and bloodshed in defence of the homeland, yellow the sun, black the earth and blue the sky, lakes and sea. Designs are simple, cheerful and are used on everything from clothes to ceramics. Other things to look out for are their wood carvings and basket woven items.

There is nothing which says Gdansk more than the iconic Solidarność (Solidarity) logo which has come to signify the movement of people across Poland who together led to the Berlin Wall crashing down. Those interested in the movement and the history will find a range of books dedicated to the subject as well as postcards, photo albums, souvenirs and even recreations of communist era items such as ration books are now available.

134 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

ART BALTICUM ul. Długa 29 artbalticum@interia.pl Second address: vis a vis The Great Armoury Piwna / Kolodziejska Corner

ART CERAMICS

JEWELLERY For those really into their football you might think about picking up a Poland national side shirt. You’ll also find a stand in Galeria Bałtycka dedicated to local club Lechia Gdańsk.

Other specialties of the region include Kashubian pottery, sweets and particularly gingerbread from the city of Toruń to the south and cut glass.

One option is to take a look at local company Findlocalgift who have sourced lots of interesting locally produced or locally themed gifts and put them together online. They’ll parcel up your gift and deliver it to your hotel for free or courier it to your home for a charge.

Alternatively here are some of the shops where you can buy some of the items mentioned above.

Shopping Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com ART BALTICUM A souvenir gallery in the centre of the old town with a pretty comprehensive collection of artistic Gdansk handicrafts including Polish glass and ceramics. Also at B-4, ul.

Kołodziejska 7/9E.QB‑5, ul. Długa 29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 11 50, www.artbalticum.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

FOLKSTAR In the souvenir shop business, Folkstar have upped the game to offer tourists to Poland the chance to buy what can only be described as traditional items, steeped in ethnic Polish folklore, but given a slight design makeover to add a modern twist. Even before you enter, you are bedazzled by the sheer range of colours of all the products.

Not only can you buy souvenirs here, but the extensive collection of items include household, office and fashion items, all of which are handmade. QA‑5, ul. Targ Sienny 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 733 20 09 10, www.folkstar.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

GALERIA SZTUK RÓŻNYCH (GALLERY OF VARIOUS ART) A wonderful little gallery run by a woman (pani Magda) who is both clearly talented and professional. Magda has teamed up with local photographer Maciej Kosycarz in a gallery close to Dluga. Everything on show here would make a wonderful gift including the paintings on the wall and the beautiful shaped and coloured tableware which comes in a range of attractive designs with a Tri-city theme.

You get the gifts in beautiful, locally produced packaging which, in our opinion, makes them that bit more attractive.

QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 101, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 07 02, www.magdabeneda.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 18:00, Closed Sun. ROCK SHOP OK. This is hardly a ‘local’ gift but nothing in the city will show a total stranger anywhere else in the world that you (or a relative) has been to Gdansk than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt. It’s probably fair to say that HRC will do as much to get the name of the city out there globally as anything the local promotions department can do. Find a range of Hard Rock Cafe clothing and souvenirs in the store adjacent to the restaurant on ul. Dlugi Targ. The classic white t-shirt will cost you 100zł.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

SZAFA GDAŃSKA A wide selection of old Danzig photos, books, post cards, images, graphics, albums and assorted handmade curios.

QB‑4, ul. Garbary 14/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 05 87 10, www.szafagdanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 15:00, Closed Sun.

RYSZARD KUKLIŃSKI RYSZARD KUKLIŃSKI MONUMENT Ryszard Kuklinski was a colonel in the Polish Army during the Cold War era who began spying for the US in 1972.

Over the next nine years he was to pass countless secrets to the CIA before he and his family were whisked out of the country on the eve of Martial Law being imposed in December 1981. In his absence he was sentenced to death by a Polish military court in 1984 but pardoned in 1995. He died in Florida in 2004 aged 73, but only after his two sons both died mysteriously in the US. Interestingly, even today he divides opinion among Poles about whether he was a hero or a traitor. This statue, the work of Tomasz Sobisz of the Academy of Fine Arts, was unveiled with military honours on September 17, 2015, the anniversary of the Soviet Union’s invasion of Poland in 1939. In 2013 a film about Kuklinski’s life was released entitled Jack Strong, his CIA codename.QO‑3, ul. I Armii Wojska Polskiego 10, Gdynia.

GROCERY STORES & SUPERMARKETS CARREFOUR EXPRESSQN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 28, Sopot, tel. (+48) 801 20 00 00. Open 24h.

DELIKATESY QN‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 51, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 30 20. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.

KOS A clean, modern supermarket in the centre of the old town close to the tower of St Mary’s Basilica. Open late, you can expect to find all your necessities here such as milk, bread and beer. QB‑4, ul. Piwna 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 309 15 20, www.delikatesygdanskie.pl. Open 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

LIDL Also in Sopot at Al. Niepodległości 697 and in Gdansk at ul.

Zawodników 4.QO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 45/1, Gdynia, www.lidl.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.

/polandinyourpocket gdansk.inyourpocket.com 135

Shopping Malls FORUM GDAŃSK A modern shopping and entertainment centre built on the remains of the historic Targ Sienny (Hay Market) and Targ Rakowy (Crayfish Market), Forum has breathed new life into the area directly across from the Upland Gate and the entrance to the Royal Way. The revitalisation of the area is impressive and incorporates the 14th century Radunia canal which flows through the centre of the complex. The heart of the development is the shopping mall, but there’s also a cinema and a new public square area which offers a tremendous view of the Old Town. QA‑4, ul. Targ Sienny 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 732 61 19, www.forumgdansk.pl/en. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

DESIGNER OUTLET GDANSK The only large scale ‘outlet’ style shopping complex in Pomerania. What you’ll find here, set in what looks like a seaside fishing village complete with lighthouse, is big name brands at knockdown prices. Stores include Pepe Jeans, Asics, New Balance, Calvin Klein Jeans, Guess, Benetton, Nike, Levis, Villeroy & Boch and Stefanel. The centre also includes cafes and an indoor play area for the kids. Located on the Tri-city ring road about 9km from central Gdańsk, the centre can be reached easily by car. A taxi will cost about 40zł one-way. Qul. Przywidzka 8, Gdańsk (Szadółki), tel. (+48) 58 320 99 44, www.designeroutletgdansk.pl.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00, Closed on the following Sundays. March 18 April 1; April 8; April 15; April 22.

136 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

GALERIA BAŁTYCKA Gdansk’s biggest and most popular shopping gallery can be found in the district of Wrzeszcz at the junction of the main Tri-city road (al. Grunwaldzka) and the main road to the airport (ul. Slowackiego). You’ll find over 200 stores, boutiques, cafes and restaurants set in a state of the art building with headline stores including a three-level H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, Tommy Hilfiger and Zara. Carrefour provide the supermarket while GB has the best food court in the city. There’s also on-site parking for 1,100 cars. The mall is opposite GdanskWrzeszcz train station and can also be reached by trams 5, 6, 9, 11 and 12 from Gdansk city centre while Neptun taxis charge approximately 30zl one-way.QF‑2, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 50, www.galeriabaltycka.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Shopping Malls KLIF Klif can be described as the Tri-city’s original shopping mall and continues to offer a choice of some of the highest quality brands in Poland. Covering over 30,000m2 and with car parking for 1,200 cars Klif features over 150 shops with flagship store H&M, while you’ll also find Bizuu, Bohoboco, Deni Cler Milano, Emanuel Berg, Tommy Hilfiger Tailored, Liu Jo, La Mania, Marciano Guess, New Look, Patrizia Pepe, Petit Bateau, Pinko, Max Mara, Sephora, Stefanel and more.

Right by Gdynia Orłowo train station on the SKM, you can also take bus S or trolleybus 21 and 31 from Sopot.

From Gdynia you can get there with bus S, or trolleybus 21, 26 and 31. From Gdansk city centre Neptun taxis charge approximately 20 Euros one-way.QP‑6, Al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 93 45, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

GALERIA HANDLOWA MADISON The Madison Shopping Gallery is found close to the main train station in the heart of Gdansk and is the most centrally located of all of Gdansk’s malls. Shoppers have a choice of over one hundred shops and service outlets, restaurants, cafes and ice-cream parlours as well as currency exchange and underground parking.

Brands present include CCC, Douglas, Ecco, Festus, Intersport, MOLTON, New Yorker, Mohito, Orsay, Ryłko, Unisono, Venezia, Wólczanka and Wojas and you’ll also find a branch of the local tourism office. There’s also the Calypso gym upstairs, an opticians and a laundry and a new food court.QB‑2, ul. Rajska 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 766 75 30, www.madison.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Calypso Gym open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

CENTRUM RIVIERA Gdynia hits back in the battle of the giant shopping malls with the Centrum Riviera weighing in with 70,000 m² of shopping space providing home for 250 outlets including the Auchan hypermarket, Zara, Bershka, Reserved, Cropp, H&M, Rossmann, Sephora, Douglas and Mango and a playground for kids Fun Park. There’s parking for 1,750 vehicles while the Helios cinema has the biggest theatre in the city at close to 3,000m² and can hold up to 1,300 people. Those who notice that there’s not a single big name fast food outlet on the main street will instead be relieved to find they are all present in the food court here.QO‑3, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 779 07 10, www. centrumriviera.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 20:00.

gdansk.inyourpocket.com 137

Directory CONFERENCE FACILITIES

PHARMACIES

SHERATON SOPOT HOTEL COLUMBUS ROOM QN‑3, ul. Powstańcow Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 16 70, www.meetings-sopot.sheraton.pl.

APTEKA DR.MAX QA‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1 (Gdańsk Główny Train Station), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 92 13.

SOFITEL GRAND SOPOT MAGNIFIQUE MEETINGS QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 44, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com.

APTEKA DYŻURNA QO‑2, Pl. Kaszubski 8, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 75 94.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES DUTCH CONSULATE IN GDAŃSK QB‑3, Ul. Bielańska 5, tel. (+48) 58 346 98 78, www. netherlandsandyou.nl/your-country-and-thenetherlands/poland/about-us/honorary-consulate-ingda-sk. Open Wed, Thu and Fri 09:00 - 11:00.

GERMAN CONSULATE IN GDAŃSK QH‑6, Al. Zwycięstwa 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 340 65 00, www.polen.diplo.de. Open 08:00 - 12:00, Closed Sat, Sun. SWEDISH CONSULATE IN GDAŃSK QB‑3, ul. Bielańska 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 763 14 69, www.swedenabroad.com. Open Mon, Wed and Fri 9:00 - 11:00.

DENTISTS SWEDENTQ0‑2, ul. Abrahama 28/4, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 505 57 75 30, www.swedentpolska.com.

GENEALOGY NATIONAL ARCHIVEQB‑2, ul. Wałowa 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 74 63, www.gdansk.ap.gov.pl. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TRIP2GDANSK Qtel. (+48) 734 46 04 44, www.trip2gdansk.pl.

HOSPITALS COPERNICUS PODMIOT LECZNICZY QJ‑4, ul. Nowe Ogrody 1-6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 764 01 00, www.copernicus.gda.pl.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS SOPOT SCHOOL OF POLISH QL‑4, Al. Niepodległości 763, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 32 84, www.ssp.edu.pl. Open 8:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun. THE CENTRE FOR POLISH STUDIES Tailored courses for people wanting to learn the Polish language.QM‑1, ul. Kraszewskiego 31/1 , Sopot, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl/sopot.

138 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

APTEKA DYŻURNA QM‑4, ul. Kościuszki 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 32 89, www.aptekadyzurna.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 20:00, Closed Sun.

PRIVATE CLINICS MEDICOVER QL‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 472A, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. THE SWISSMED HOSPITAL QB‑4, ul. Wileńska 44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 524 15 00, www.swissmed.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES & GROUPS GOSPEL CHURCH Christian church with English language meetings every Sunday at 11:30.QG‑4, Al. Grunwaldzka 82 (Manhattan Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, www.gospelchurchgdansk.pl.

MOSQUE Qul. Abrahama 17A, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 505 17 35 93. Open 12:00 - 14:00. Services take place every Friday at 12:00.

PROTESTANT PRAYER HOUSE QB‑4, ul. Za Murami 2-10, Gdańsk (Dom Harcerza), tel. (+48) 605 28 24 17, www.gdansk.reformacja.pl.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS ART OF TRANSLATION QL‑5, ul. Kościuszki 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 01 32, www.artoftranslation.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. GERLANG QO‑2, ul. 10 lutego 11 (Batory), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 75 41 98, www.tlumaczenia.gerlang.pl. Open 09:00 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. PIOTR ŁUBA Experienced and trustworthy translator of English to Polish and vice versa.Qtel. (+48) 602 51 85 09.

Hotels CREAM OF THE CROP HILTON HOTELQD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 71 00, www.hiltongdansk.pl. 150 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles, 4 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P­U­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh HOTEL GDAŃSK BOUTIQUE 5*****QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 17 17, www.hotelgdansk. pl. 90 rooms (11 singles, 74 doubles, 4 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P­U­6­K­H­D­w hhhhh PODEWILSQD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 95 60, www.podewils.pl. 10 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles). P­6­K­H­D hhhhh QUADRILLEQO‑6, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 351 03 00, www.quadrille.pl. 31 rooms (3 singles, 27 doubles, 1 apartment). P­U­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh RADISSON BLUQC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 19/Powroźnicza, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 44 44, www.bit.ly/ RadissonBluGda. 134 rooms (8 singles, 118 doubles, 8 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H­D­F­w hhhhh REZYDENTQM‑3, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 58 00, www.hotelrezydent.com.pl.

65 rooms (6 singles, 56 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment).

P­U­L­6­K­H­D­w hhhhh

REFRESH THE WAY REFRESH YOU TRAVEL

THE WAY YOU TRAVEL

When it comes to vacation travel, Courtyard by Marriott Gdynia Waterfront offers a refreshing way to unwind.

Book your stay at the new hotel located in the heart of Gdynia and enjoy spectacular sea view and friendly atmosphere.

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT® GDYNIA WATERFRONT 19 Jerzego Waszyngtona Street 81-342 Gdynia +48 58 743 07 00 hotel@courtyardgdynia.com marriott.com/GDNCY

SHERATON SOPOT HOTELQN‑3, ul. Powstańcow Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 00, www. sheratonsopot.pl. 189 rooms (10 apartments). P­U­ L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh SOFITEL GRAND SOPOTQN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 00, www. sofitel-grand-sopot.com. 126 rooms (84 doubles, 42 suites). P­U­L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh SOPOT MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA QN‑5, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 00, www.sopotmarriott.com. 145 rooms (124 singles, 141 doubles, 4 apartments). P­U­L­6­ K­H­C­D­F­w hhhh

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning D‑3 Map Coordinate F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

gdansk.inyourpocket.com 139

Hotels UPMARKET HOTEL W SAMYM SERCU GDAŃSKA A HOTEL IN A VERY HEART OF GDAŃSK

ALMOND BUSINESS & SPA QB‑6, ul. Toruńska 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 90 00, www.hotelalmond.pl. 108 rooms (99 doubles, 7 suites, 2 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H­C­D­w hhhh BAYJONN HOTEL QN‑3, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 730 71 71 71, www.bayjonnhotel.pl. 29 rooms (28 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). P­U­L­K­H­D­F hhh BONUM HOTELQC‑2, ul. Sieroca 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 78 10, www.hotelbonum.pl. 32 rooms (6 singles, 21 doubles, 2 apartments, 3 Superior). U­6­K­H hhh COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT GDYNIA QP‑2, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 00, www.marriott.com/GDNCY. 200 rooms (199 singles, 199 doubles, 1 suite). P­U­6­K­H­F hhhh CRAFT BEER HOTEL CENTRAL QA‑3, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 09 10, www.centralhotelgdansk.pl. 39 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles). P­6­K­H hhhh HAFFNERQN‑2, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 99 99, www.hotelhaffner.pl. 105 rooms (100 singles, 93 doubles, 5 apartments). P­T­U­L­K­H­C­D­ F­w hhhh HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK AIRPORT Qul. Słowackiego 220 (Rębiechowo), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 882 10 00, www.hampton.com. 116 rooms (116 singles, 116 doubles). P­U­K­H­F hhh

WE INVITE YOU TO THE HANZA HOTEL, LOCATED OVERLOOKING THE MOTLAWA RIVER IN THE VERY HEART OF GDANSK NEXT TO THE LANDMARK CRANE

FOR RESERVATIONS CALL US ON + 48 603 612 927 HOTEL HANZA, UL. TOKARSKA 6, GDANSK TEL. +48 58 305 34 27, FAX +48 58 305 33 86 E-MAIL: HOTEL@HOTELHANZA.PL WWW.HOTELHANZA.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/HOTELHANZA 140 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK OLD TOWN QB‑4, ul. Letykarska 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 670 33 33, www.hampton.com. T­L­6­H­F hhh HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK OLIWA QK‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 507, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 81 00, www.hampton.com. 101 rooms (48 singles, 48 doubles, 52 triples, 1 quad). P­T­U­K­F hhh HANZAQD‑4, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 34 27, www.hotelhanza.pl. 60 rooms (17 singles, 36 doubles, 5 suites, 2 Presidential Suites). P­U­6­K­ H­D­F hhhh HOLLAND HOUSE RESIDENCEQC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 33/34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 77 77, www.hollandhouse. pl. 26 rooms (19 doubles, 6 triples, 1 apartment). U­K­H HOTEL SADOVA Qul. Łąkowa 60, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 382 30 30, www. hotelsadova.pl. 164 rooms (163 singles, 163 doubles, 1 apartment). P­U­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhh

Hotels

HOTEL SEDAN QN‑4, ul. Pułaskiego 18-20, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 09 80, www.sedan.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 3 suites, 4 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H hh HOTEL SOPOT QN‑2, ul. J.J. Haffnera 88, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 882 80 00, www.hotelsopot.eu. 124 rooms (116 singles, 124 doubles) 25-45zł. P­U­L­6­K­H­C­F­w hhhh IBB HOTEL DŁUGI TARG QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 14-16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 587 17 87 00, www.hoteldlugitarg.pl. P­U­L­6­K­H­F­w hhhh KRÓLEWSKI QD‑4, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 11 11, www.hotelkrolewski.pl. 30 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 6 triples, 4 apartments). U­L­6­K­H hhh LIBERUM Qul. Długa 84/85, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 729 19 90 99, www. liberumgdansk.pl. 31 rooms (2 singles, 22 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads). P­6­K MEDUSA BOUTIQUE HOTEL QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 583 51 06 60, www.medusagdansk.pl/en. P­L

MERCURE GDAŃSK STARE MIASTO QB‑2, ul. Heweliusza 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 321 00 00, www.mercure.com. 281 rooms (275 singles, 275 doubles, 6 apartments). P­U­6­K­H­F hhhh MERCURE GDYNIA CENTRUM QO‑2, ul. Armii Krajowej 22, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 666 30 40, www.mercure.com. 294 rooms (286 singles, 286 doubles, 8 suites). U­L­6­K­H­C­D hhh MOLO RESIDENCEQN‑4, ul. Pułaskiego 6A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 355 11 00, www.molohotel.pl. 9 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples). P­L NADMORSKIQP‑4, ul. Ejsmonda 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667 77 77, www.nadmorski.pl. 90 rooms (82 singles, 82 doubles, 4 triples, 4 apartments). P­U­6­K­H­D­ F­w hhhh NOVOTEL CENTRUM QD‑5, ul. Pszenna 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 27 50, www.accorhotels.com. 158 rooms (158 singles, 158 doubles). P­U­L­6­K­H­F hhh NOVOTEL GDAŃSK MARINA Qul. Jelitkowska 20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 558 91 00, www.accorhotels.com. 175 rooms (17 singles, 158 doubles). U­L­6­K­H­C­D­F hhh gdansk.inyourpocket.com 141

Hotels MID-RANGE AMBER Qul. Taborowa 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 718 71 87, www.amber-hotel.pl. 46 rooms (10 singles, 25 doubles, 7 triples, 3 quads, 1 suite). P­U­L­K­H­w hhh

We invite you to our stylish residence located in the heart of Gdansk - the city of Hevelius, Amber and Neptune

ARTUS QC‑4, ul. Piwna 36-39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 96 00, www.artushotel.com.pl. 50 rooms (12 singles, 16 doubles, 15 triples, 5 quads, 2 apartments). U­K­ H­D hhh BALTICA RESIDENCE QM‑5, ul. Na Wydmach 13, Sopot, tel. (+48) 583 51 05 00, www.balticasopot.pl. 17 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 2 apartments). P­U­L­H

We guarantee you a friendly atmosphere, professional service and an unforgettable time.

Ul. Stągiewna 2/3, 80-750 Gdańsk Tel. +48 58 710 01 01, Fax. +48 58 718 65 17 www.kobza.pl, recepcja@kobza.pl

PURO GDAŃSK QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 563 50 00, www.purohotel.pl. 211 rooms (13 singles, 189 doubles, 9 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H­D­F­w hhhh Q HOTEL GRAND CRU QD‑3, ul. Rycerska 11-12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 73 00, www.qhotels.pl. 50 rooms (50 singles, 50 doubles).

P­U­6­K­H­D­F hhhh QUBUS HOTELQC‑6, ul. Chmielna 47/52, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 752 21 00, www.qubushotel.com. 110 rooms (36 singles, 72 doubles, 2 apartments). P­U­6­K­H­ D­F­w hhhh SCANDIC GDAŃSKQB‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 60 00, www.scandichotels. com. 143 rooms (60 singles, 64 doubles, 18 suites).

P­U­6­K­H­D­F­w hhhh WILLA LUBICZ QP‑6, ul. Orłowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40, www.willalubicz.pl. 16 rooms (15 doubles, 1 suite).

U­L­K­H­D hhh ZHONG HUA QN‑4, Al. Wojska Polskiego 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 20 20, www.hotelchinski.pl. 49 rooms.

L­6­K hhh 142 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

BIAŁA LILIA QD‑5, ul. Spichrzowa 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 74, www.bialalilia.pl. 15 rooms (1 single, 13 doubles, 1 suite).

DOM AKTORAQC‑3, ul. Straganiarska 55/56, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 61 93, www.domaktora.pl. 13 rooms (2 singles, 11 apartments). L­W DOM MUZYKAQul. Łąkowa 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 06 00, www.dommuzyka.pl. 87 rooms (36 singles, 50 doubles, 1 apartment). U­L­6­K­H DOM SCHUMANNÓWQC‑5, ul. Długa 45, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 52 72, www.domschumannow.pl.

9 rooms (2 singles, 6 doubles, 1 apartment). H FOCUSQul. Elbląska 85, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 350 08 01, www.focushotels.pl. 99 rooms (99 singles, 99 doubles, 3 triples). P­U­L­6­K­H­D­F hhh FOCUS PREMIUM QE‑3, ul. Nad Stawem 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 670 42 90, www.focushotels.pl. P­U­L­K­H­D­F hhhh FOCUS HOTEL PREMIUM SOPOT QM‑3, ul. 1 Maja 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 728 45 28, www. focushotels.pl. P­U­L­6­K­H HOTEL BURSZTYNQN‑5, ul. Emilii Plater 19, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 40 68, www.hotelbursztyn.pl. 34 rooms (29 doubles, 5 apartments). U­L­6­K­H hh HOTEL NUMBER ONEQC‑6, ul. Jaglana 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 80 10, www.hotelnumberone.pl.

172 rooms (7 singles, 101 doubles, 68 quads). P­U­ L­K­H­C­D­F­w hhh IBIS GDAŃSK STARE MIASTOQC‑2, ul. Heweliusza 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 67 00, www.ibis.com. 120 rooms (120 singles, 120 doubles). P­U­6­K­H hh

Hotels IRENA QN‑4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 20 73, www.pensjonat-irena.com. 15 rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). L­6­K KAMIENICA GOLDWASSER QC‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. 7 rooms (7 apartments).

6­K KAMIENICA GOTYK QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 85 67, www.gotykhouse.eu. 11 rooms (9 doubles, 1 quad, 1 5-person room). P KOBZA HAUS QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 2/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 01 01, www.kobza.pl. 22 rooms (2 singles, 18 doubles, 2 apartments). P­H

DOM MUZYKA - A HOTEL WITH AN UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE 7 minutes walk from Gdansk Old Town

MARINA CLUB HOTEL QD‑5, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 733 60 01, www.marinaclubhotel.pl. 34 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 26 apartments). P­6­K hhh MERCURE GDAŃSK POSEJDON Qul. Kapliczna 30, Gdańsk (Jelitkowo), tel. (+48) 58 511 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. 151 rooms (151 singles, 151 doubles) Breakfast 55zł. T­U­L­6­K­H­C­D­ F­w hhh

ul. Łąkowa 1-2, Tel. +48 58 326 06 00 www.dommuzyka.pl

OLIWSKIQJ‑6, ul. Piastowska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 761 66 10, www.hoteloliwski.pl. 53 rooms (9 singles, 37 doubles, 7 triples). P­U­H hhh VILLA ADMIRAŁ QO‑2, ul. 10-go Lutego 29A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 20 38, www.admiralvilla.com.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 1 suite). L­6 VILLA ANTONINA QM‑3, ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 00 09, www.villaantonina.pl. 12 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles, 2 apartments). T­U­L­6­ K­H VILLA GDYNIAQP‑4, ul. Kopernika 57, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 517 44 91 95, www.hotelgdynia.pl. 12 rooms (2 singles, 3 doubles). W WILLA MAREAQN‑4, ul. Chrobrego 38 (entrance from ul. Parkowa 40), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 84 80, www.marea.sopot.pl. 18 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles, 1 apartment). T­U­L­H WOLNE MIASTOQB‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 22 55, www.hotelwm.pl. 68 rooms (18 singles, 46 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). U­K­H hhh gdansk.inyourpocket.com 143

Hotels BUDGET

HOSTELS

ABAK I MAC-TURQul. Beethovena 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 04 40, www.abak.gda.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 15 doubles, 4 triples). L­W

3 CITY HOSTEL QB‑3, Targ Drzewny 12/14, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 354 54 54, www.3city-hostel.pl. 30 rooms (3 doubles, 1 quad, 3 six-person room, 17 eight-person room, 6 ten-person room, 1 fourteen-person room, 238 dorm beds).

HOTEL GRYF Qul. Jana z Kolna 22/26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 01 30, www.gryfgdansk.pl. 66 rooms (66 singles, 46 doubles, 20 triples). U­6­K­H hhh VILLA AKME Qul. Drwęcka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 40 21, www. akme.gda.pl. 24 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 6 triples).

K­H­D hhh

APARTMENTS APARTAMENTY SOPOTQM‑5, ul. Władysława Łokietka 51, Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www. seatowers24.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments). D­F DOM & HOUSE APARTAMENTYQM‑4, ul. 3 Maja 44A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 883 37 42 38, www.dhapartamenty. pl. 250 rooms (250 apartments). P­U­L­6 JOVI APARTMENTSQM‑5, ul. Władysława Łokietka 19C (2nd floor), Sopot, tel. (+48) 797 60 11 00, www. joviapartments.com. 5 rooms (5 apartments). L­6­F LION APARTMENTS QN‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 50/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 511 81 30 55, www.lion-apartments.pl/en. 30 rooms (30 apartments). T­L­6 LONGSTAY APARTHOTEL QO‑3, ul. Artura Grottgera 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 713 12 13, www.longstay.pl. T­D­F

CENTRAL SOPOT QM‑3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 530 85 87 17, www.centralsopot.com. 30 rooms (30 singles, 19 doubles, 9 triples, 2 quads, 1 apartment, 1 eight person room).

GRAND HOSTEL QD‑4, ul. Świętojańska 43/44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 666 06 13 50, www.grandhostel.pl. 9 rooms (1 single, 3 doubles, 3 triples, 30 dorm beds, 1 six-person room, 1 eight-person room). 6 HIGH 5 HOSTELQD‑3, ul. Grodzka 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 86 01, www.high5hostel.pl. 5 rooms (1 double, 1 quad, 1 six-person room, 1 ten-person room, 1 twelve-person room). L HOSTEL UNIVERSUS QB‑5, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 81 14, www.hostel.universus.pl. 10 rooms (1 single, 3 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 1 apartment, 2 five-person room, 1 seven-person room). 6 HOSTEL ZAPPIO QC‑4, ul. Świętojańska 49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 01 74, www.zappio.pl. 19 rooms (1 single, 12 doubles, 1 triple, 2 quads, 3 apartments, 40 dorm beds). 6 LUX HOSTELQO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 67, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 74 24 55, www.luxhostel.pl.

MAŁA ANGLIA BOUTIQUE APARTMENTS & SPA QN‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 94-96, Sopot, tel. (+48) 583 51 05 20, www.malaanglia.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments).

L­6­C­D­w

MIDTOWN HOSTEL QB‑3, Podwale Staromiejskie 105/106 lok.1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 50 57, www.midtownhostel.pl. 6 rooms (4 singles, 3 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 1 six-person room).

ORLOWSKA43QP‑6, ul. Orlowska 43A/7, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 728 08 49, www.orlowska43.pl. 1 room (1 apartment). L

OCH! HOSTEL QO‑3, ul. Świętojańska 85, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 502 026 350, www.ochhostel.pl. 7 rooms (2 doubles, 2 triples, 1 quad, 2 six-person room, 24 dorm beds). 6

ROYAL APARTMENTSQM‑4, ul. 3 Maja 67-69, Sopot, tel. (+48) 790 50 06 35, www.royal-apartments.pl.

90 rooms (90 apartments). P­L SEA TOWERSQP‑2, ul. Hryniewickiego 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www.seatowers24.pl.

30 apartments. P WELCOME APARTMENTQul. Tandeta 1/83, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 883 77 51 00, www.welcomeapartment.pl.

100 rooms (100 apartments). L­D­F 144 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

SISTERS LODGE HOSTEL QN‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 59/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 533 40 34, www.sisterslodge.com. 6 rooms (4 doubles, 1 triple, 1 eight-person room).

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Lion Apartments Sopot tel.: + 48 511 813 055 sopot@lion-apartments.pl www.lion-apartments.pl Office : Sopot ul. Grunwaldzka 50

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Street Register SOPOT 1 Maja M-3 3 Maja M-4; N-4 23 Marca M-2/3 Adama Mickiewicza M-3/4 Aleja Franciszka Mamuszki N-2/4 Aleja Niepodległości M-2/5; N-1/2 Aleja Wojska Polskiego N-4/6 Antoniego Abrahama M-3 Architektów M-5; N-5 Armii Krajowej M-2/5 Artura Grottgera M-3 Bitwy pod Płowcami N-4/6 Boczna M-4 Bohaterów Monte Cassino M/N-3 Dok. Franciszka Kubacza M-3; N-3 Dok. Ludwika Zamenhofa M-4 Dębowa M-4 Emilii Plater N-4/5 Floriana Ceynowy N-3 Fryderyka Chopina M-4; N-4 Gen. Józefa Wybickiego M-4 Gen. Kaz. Pułaskiego M-3; N-3/4 Gen. M. Langiewicza M-5 Gen. W. Andersa M-3/4 Grunwaldzka N-3/4 Helska N-3 Henryka Sienkiewicza M-2 Ign. Jana Paderewskiego M-3/4 Ignacego Krasickiego M-4 Jacka Malczewskiego M-1/2 Jakuba Goyki M-3; N-3 Jana III Sobieskiego M-4; N-4 Jana Jerzego Haffner N-1/3 Jana Kilińskiego N-4 Jana Kochanowskiego M-4 Jana Sobieskiego M-3/4 Jana Winieckiego M-3; N-2/3 Jana z Kolna M-5 Junaków M-1 Józefa Konrada M-4 Karlikowska N-4/5 Kaszubska M-1 Kazimierza Wielkiego N-4 Króla Jana Kazimierza M-4/5 Książąt Pomorskich M-4; N-4

(PG. 148-149) Ks. Józefa Poniatowskiego N-4 Ks. Augustyna Kordeckiego N-4 Księżycowa M-2/3 Kujawska M-1; N-1 Lipowa M-4 Łowicka M-1; N-1 Łużycka M-1 Mariana Mokwy N-3 Marii Konopnickiej M-4 Marii Skłodowskiej-Curie M-4 Marynarzy M-4 Mazowiecka M-1; N-1 Małopolska M-1 Michała Drzymały N-4 Mieszka I N-4 Mikołaja Kopernika M-4 Mikołaja Reja M-5 Morska N-3 Na Wydmach N-4/5 Obodrzyców M-1/2 Obrońców Westerplatte M-3 Okrężna M-2/3 Parkowa N-4 Piastów N-4 Plac Dwóch Miast M-6; N-6 Podgórna M-2 Pogodna M-5; N-5 Polna M-5; N-5 Powstańców Warszawy N-2/3 Racławicka M-5 Romualda Traugutta N-4 Skarpowa M-5 Sportowa M-5 Stanisława Moniuszki M-3 Stefana Okrzei N-4/5 Sępia N-1/2 Tadeusza Kościuszki M-3/4 Wejherowska M-1/2 Woj. Bart. Głowackiego M-5 Wosia Budzysza N-2 Władysława Broniewskiego M-4 Władysława IV M-4/5 Władysława Jagiełły M-4 Władysława Łokietka M-5/6; N-5 Zacisze M-2/3 Zamkowa Góra N-1

GDYNIA 3 Maja O-2 10 Lutego O-2 Adama Asnyka O-3 Adama Mickiewicza O-2/3; P-3 Aleja marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego O-3; P-3 Aleja Zwycięstwa O-3/6; P-6 Aleksandra Fredry P-3 Antoniego Abrahama O-2/3 Antoniego Hryniewickiego P-2 Armii Krajowej O-2; P-2 Augustyna Necla O-3; P-3 Białostocka O-3 Bulwar Nadmorski P-2/4 Cypriana K. Norwida O-3/4; P-3/4 Dworcowa O-2 Elizy Orzeszkowej O-3/4 Franciszka Sędzickiego P-2/3 Franciszka Żwirki i Wigury O-2 Gen. Jar. Dąbrowskiego O-4 Generała Józefa Bema O-3 Harcerska O-4 Henryka Sienkiewicza P-3 Hetmańska O-4 I Armii Wojska Polskiego O-3; P-3 Ign. Jana Paderewskiego P-3 Ignacego Krasickiego O-3; P-3 Jana Kasprowicza O-2; P-2/3 Jana Matejki P-3 Jana z Kolna O-2 Jerzego Waszyngtona P-1/2 Juliusza Słowackiego O-2/3 Kazimierza Górskiego O-3/4 Kazimierza Pułaskiego O-2; P-2 Kościelna O-5/6 Krośnieńska O-5

(PG. 148-149) Legionów O-3/5; P-3/5 Lotników O-5 Mariana Mokwy O-4; P-4 Marszałka Ferdynanda Focha O-4 Mikołaja Kopernika O-3/4; P-4/5 Mikołaja Reja O-3/4 Miodowa O-6; P-6 Morska O-2 Obrońców Wybrzeża O-2 Orłowska O-6; P-6 Partyzantów O-3; P-3 Perkuna P-6 Plac Grunwaldzki O-2 Plac Kaszubski O-2 Plac Konstytucji O-2 Podolska O-2 Poleska O-2 Portowa O-1/2 Powstania Styczniowego O-5; P-5 Powst. Wielkopolskiego O-4/5; P-5 Przebendowskich O-6; P-6 Redłowska O-4; P-4/5 Senatorska O-4 Skośna O-4 Skwer Tadeusza Kościuszki O/P-2 Stanisława Moniuszki P-3/4 Stanisława Wyspiańskiego P-3 Stefana Batorego O-2 Wacława Sieroszewskiego O/P-3 Warszawska O-2/3 Wojewódzka O-4 Wójta Radtkego O-2 Władysława IV O-2/3 Zaciszna P-6 Śląska O-2/3 Świętojańska O-2/3

152 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

GDAŃSK Aksamitna B-2; C-1/2 Aldony E-4; F-4 Aleja Generała Józefa Hallera E/H-6 Aleja Grunwaldzka E-1/2; F-2/3; G-3/5; H-5 Aleja Legionów E-4/5; F-4/5 Aleja Wojska Polskiego E-1 Aleja Zwycięstwa A-1 Aleja Zwycięstwa H-5/6 Angielska Grobla D-4 Antoniego Lendziona F-2/3 Antoniego Słonimskiego E-1 Bastion Świętej Elżbiety A-3 Basztowa D-5 Bednarska B-3 Bernarda Chrzanowskiego F-1 Biała F-3/4; G-4/5 Bielańska B-3 Bohaterów Getta Warszawskiego G-5; H-5 Bosmańska C-4 Braci Lewoniewskich E-1 Browarna C-2/3 Brygidki C-2 Brzozowa F-3 Ceglana E-1/2 Chlebnicka C-4/5 Chmielna C-5/6; D-4/5 Cypriana Kamila Norwida E-1; F-1 Czarna E-1/2 Czopowa D-3 Danusi F-4/5 Długa B-4/5; C-5 Długie Ogrody D-5 Długie Pobrzeże C-4/5 Do Studzienki G-4; H-4 Doki B-1 Droga do Wolności B-1 Dylinki D-3 Dyrekcyjna A-1 Dziana C-4/5 Edwarda Stachury E-1; F-1 Elżbietańska A-3; B-3 Gabriela Narutowicza H-5/6 Garbary B-4/5 Garncarska B-3 Generała Charlesa de Gaulle’a F-2/3; G-2 Generała Józefa Hallera F-6; G-6 Gnilna B-2 Gołębia E-3/4 Gradowa A-2 Grażyny E-4; F-4 Grobla I C-4 Grobla II C-4 Grobla III C-3/4 Grobla IV C-3 Grodzka D-3 Grząska C-4/5 Grzegorza Piramowicza G-6; H-5/6 Henryka Sienkiewicza G-3/4 Hugo Kołłątaja F-2 Igielnicka C-3 Jana Dziewanowskiego D-3 Jana Heweliusza B-2; C-2 Jana Kilińskiego E-3; F-3/4 Jana Kochanowskiego E/G-6 Jana Matejki G-3/4; H-4 Jana Pestalozziego E-3/4 Jana Uphagena G-5/6 Jaśkowa Dolina G-3/4; H-2/3 Jesionowa F-2; G-2 Joachima Lelewela E-4; F-4 Juliusza Kossaka G-4; H-3/4 Juliusza Słowackiego F-1/2

(PG. 147, 150) Kaletnicza B-4; C-4 Karmelicka A-3; B-2/3 Karola Lipińskiego E-1 Karola Szymanowskiego E-1 Katarzynki B-3; C-3 Kładki B-5 Klesza C-4 Kliniczna G-6 Klonowa F-3 Kołodziejska B-4 Konrada Wallenroda E-4; F-4 Korzenna B-2/3 Kotwiczników C-5 Kowalska B-3 Kozia B-4 Kramarska C-4/5 Krosna C-2; D-2 Krowia C-4 Księdza Józefa ZatorPrzytockiego F-4 Kuśnierska C-5 Łagiewniki B-1/2; C-2 Latarniana B-4 Lawendowa C-3/4 Ławnicza C-5 Lektykarska B-4 Lisia Grobla C-1 Ludwika Zamenhofa E-1 Mariacka C-4 Mariana Hemara E-1; F-1 Matki Polki G-3 Mieczysława Karłowicza E-1 Mieszczańska C-5 Minogi C-3/4 Mirona Białoszewskiego E-1 Mniszki C-2/3 Mokra C-4 Most Chlebowy B-3 Most Kamieniarski D-4 Most Stągiewny D-5 Motławska D-5 Mydlarska C-4 Na Piaskach B-3 Na Stępce D-3/4 Nad Stawem E-3 Obywatelska F-1 Ogarna B-5; C-5 Olejarna C-3 Ołowianka D-3/4 Osiek C-2 Pachołów C-3 Panieńska C-2/3 Pańska B-3/4 Partyzantów F-1/2; G-2/3 Piwna B-4; C-4 Plac Dominikański B-3; C-3 Plac generała Józefa Wybickiego E-4 Plac Obrońców Poczty Polskiej C-2/3; D-2 Plac Zebrań Ludowych A-1 Plebania C-4 Pocztowa B-4/5 Podbielańska B-2/3 Podgarbary B-4/5 Podkramarska C-4 Podleśna F-1; G-1/2 Podmłyńska B-3 Podmurze B-3/4 Podstoczna C-1; D-1/2 Podwale Grodzkie A-2/4; B-2 Podwale Przedmiejskie A/C-5; C-6; D-6 Podwale Staromiejskie B/D-3 Podzamcze C-3 Pończoszników C-5 Powroźnicza C-5 Pożarnicza D-4

Profesorska B-3; C-3 Przędzalnicza C-4 Pszenna C-5; D-5/6 Rajska B-2/3 Refektarska C-2 Rondo Ofiar Katynia A-1 Różana C-3 Rybackie Pobrzeże D-3 Rybaki Dolne C-2 Rybaki Górne C-1/2 Rycerska D-3 Rzeźnicka B-5/6 Sieroca C-2/3 Słodowników B-5; C-5 Słomiana C-3/4 Sobótki G-4; H-3/4 Spichrzowa C-5; D-5 Stągiewna C-5; D-5 Stajenna C-2 Stanisława Kunickiego E-3 Stanisława Moniuszki E-1 Stanisława Wyspiańskiego E/G-5; G-6 Stara Stocznia D-2/3 Stare Domki C-2 Stefana Czarnieckiego G-4/5 Stefana Kisielewskiego E-1 Stefana Okrzei G-6 Stępkarska D-2 Stolarska C-2/3 Straganiarska C-3; D-3 Sukiennicza D-2/3 Świętego Ducha B-4; C-4 Świętojańska B/D-4; B-3 Szafarnia D-4/5 Szeroka B/D-4; B-3 Szewska C-4 Szklary C-4 Szopy D-5/6 Szpitalna C-3; D-3 Tandeta C-4 Targ Drzewny B-3/4 Targ Rybny D-3 Targ Węglowy B-4 Tartaczna C-3 Teatralna B-4 Tkacka B-4 Tobiasza C-3; D-3 Tokarska C-4 Toruńska A/C-6 Trakt Konny A-1 Trakt Konny H-5/6 U Furty C-3 Wajdeloty F-3/4 Wałowa B/D-2; B-1; C-1 Wały Jagiellońskie A-3/4; B-3/4 Wały Piastowskie A-2; B-1/2 Wapiennicza D-3 Wartka D-3 Warzywnicza C-4; D-3/4 Węglarska B-4 Wielkie Młyny B-3 Wiktora Gomulickiego E-1/2 Wincentego Pola E-1/2 Władysława Pniewskiego G-3 Wodopój B-2; C-2 Za Murami B-5 Żabi Kruk B-5/6 Zabytkowa F-1; G-1 Zamkowa C-3 Zaułek Świętego Bartłomieja B-2 Zaułek Zachariasza Zappio C-3/4 Zbytki B-5 Złotników C-4 Żytnia C-5; D-5

Index 3 Burger 71 3 City Hostel 144 3 Siostry 110 3 Town Paintball 122 77 Sushi 92 Abak i Mac-tur 144 A La Française 76 Allora 85 Al Ponte Ristorante 85 Amber 142 Amber Museum 36 Amberstyl Workshop and Gallery

131 Anna Walentynowicz Monument

34 Antoni Suchanek monument 79 Apartamenty Sopot 144 Aquapark 124 Aquapark Bowling 118 Aquapark Reda 124 Arka Gdynia 120 Art Balticum 135 Art Deco 78 Artus 142 Artus Court 31 Atelier 116 Avangarda 110 Avocado 104 BACIO di CAFFÈ 66 Bagażownia Zynera 94 Baltica Residence 142 Bar Familijny - KOS 94 Bar Mleczny Neptun 94 Bar Mleczny Słoneczny 94 Bar Pod Rybą 106 Bar Przystań 74 Bartan 142 Bayjonn Hotel 140 Bez Rezerwacji 78 BHP Building 60 Billy's American Restaurant 71 Bistro by Goldwasser 64 Blinkee 16 Błyskawica 36 Bonum Hotel 140 Brovarnia 76, 110 Browar Miejski Sopot 76 Browar PG4 76 Buddha Lounge 72 Bulaj 78 Bunkier Klubogaleria 116 Café Absinthe 111 Cafe Kamienica 64 Carrefour Express 135 Casa Cubeddu 86 Cathead Multitap 111 Cemetery of the Lost Cemeteries 32 Central Sopot 144 Centrum Nauki Experyment 119 Centrum Riviera 137 Centrum U7 Gdańsk 118 Cesky Film 73 Chang Thai Street Food 100 Chleb i Wino 78 Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus 46 City of Gdynia Museum 36 City Skating Rink 119 City Tour Gdańsk 34 Corpus Christi Church 32 Courtyard by Marriott Gdynia

Waterfront 140 Craft Beer Hotel Central 140 Craft Cocktails 111 Crooked House 41 Crudo 102 Cukiernia Delicje 64 Cyganeria 64 Cyrano et Roxane 76 Czerwony Piec 90 Dancing Anchor 79 Dar Pomorza 36 Delikatesy 135 Designer Outlet Gdansk 136 Displaced Gdynian monument 34 Dolce Vita 86 Dom Aktora 142 Dom & House Apartamenty 144 Dom Muzyka 142 Dom Schumannów 142 Donegal 111 Dream Club 116, 117 Electronic Paintball Zoltar Apokalipsa 122 Eliksir 47 Emigration Museum in Gdynia 39 Empik 132 Escaperooms 118 Ethnographic Department of the National Museum 48 European Solidarity Centre 59 Fahrenheit Monument 42 Fahrenheit's House 42 Fanaberia Crepes & Cafe 106 Father Jankowski statue 34 Fidel Gastro Bar 79 Filharmonia 80 Flisak 76 112 Focus 142 Focus Hotel Premium Sopot 142 Focus Premium 142 Folkstar 135 Forum Gdańsk 136 Four Quarters Fountain 35 Free City of Danzig Historical Zone

37 Galeria Bałtycka 136 Galeria Bałtycka Food Court 106 Galeria Handlowa Madison 137 Galeria Sztuki Kaszubskiej 132 Galeria Sztuk Różnych 135 Gannon Gdansk Guide 34 Gård – Taste Scandinavian 101 Garrison Church of St. George 32 Gdańska 98 Gdansk Apartments 144 Gdansk History Museum 37 Gdansk Panoramic Wheel 32 Gdańsk Tourist Information Centre

32 Gdańsk University of Technology 46 Gdansk with us 34 Gdańsk Zoo 48, 121 Gdynia Aquarium 120 Golden Gate 30 Goldwasser 72, 130 Goldwasser Restaurant 72, 80 Grand Hostel 144 Grand SPA 128 Great Armoury 41 Great Mill 41 Green Club 118

Green Gate 31 Green Way Food For Life 104 Guardhouse Number 1 55 Haffner Monument 35 HAH Sopot 116 Hala Olivia Skating Rink 119 Hala Targowa Gdańsk 132 Hala Targowa Gdynia 132 Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Airport

140 Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Old Town 140 Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Oliwa

140 Hanza 140 Hard Rock Cafe 71, 112 Hashi Sushi 92 Hevelianum 120 Hevelius's Home & Brewery 51 High 5 112 High 5 Hostel 144 Hilton Hotel 139 Historical Gate #2 of the Gdansk Shipyard 60 Holland House Residence 140 Hostel Universus 144 Hostel Zappio 144 Hotel Bursztyn 142 Hotel Gdańsk Boutique 5***** 139 Hotel Gryf 144 Hotel Haffner Restaurant 80 Hotel Haffner Spa 128 Hotel Number One 142 Hotel Sadova 140 Hotel Sedan 141 Hotel Sopot 141 IBB Hotel Długi Targ 141 Ibis Gdańsk Stare Miasto 142 I Krowa Cała 104 India Express 77 Ink Above 112 Jacques André 128 Johannes Hevelius Monument 51 Jopengasse 113 Józef Piłsudski monument 35 JUMPCITY 121, 124 Kafëbë 98 Kamienica Goldwasser 143 Kamienica Gotyk 143 Karczma Irena 96 KartCenter 119 Kava 72 Kawiarnia Filmowa W Starym Kadrze 65 KFC 106 Kino Kameralne Cafe 65 Klatka B 98 Klif 137 Kobza Haus 143 Kolano Stables 124 Kolorowe Talerzyki 94 KOS 135 Kotka Cafe 66 Królewski 141 Kubicki 98 La Crema d'Italia 66 Lawendowa 8 113 Le Bar 113 Lechia Gdańsk 120 Lech Wałęsa 60 Liberum 141

Lidl 135 Lilou 131 Lion Apartments 144 Lobster 74 Lody Tradycyjne Kwaśniak 66 Lolo Thaijolo 101 Long Market & Neptune Fountain

31 Longstay Aparthotel 144 Long Street 31 Lookier Cafe & Restaurant 66, 72 Loopy's World 121 Lux Hostel 144 Łysa Góra 122 M15 74 M15 Saunspot 128 Machina Eats & Beats 86 Magiel Restaurant 80 Main Town Hall 31 Mała Anglia Boutique Apartments & SPA 144 Malika 94 Marina Club Hotel 143 Maritime Culture Centre 40 Masala 77 McDonald's 106 Meat Shack BBQ 81 Mera SPA 128 Mercato 99 Mercure Gdańsk Posejdon 143 Mercure Gdynia Centrum 141 Midtown Hostel 144 Ministerstwo Śledzia i Wódki 114 Mito Sushi 92 Młody Byron 66 Molo Residence 141 Mondo di Vinegre 81 Monument to the Evacuated Children 35 Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970 61 Monument to the Victims of December 1970 61 Morze Piwa 114 Moshi Moshi Sushi 92 Motlava 96 Mount Blanc 67 Museum of Modern Art 49 Nadmorski 141 Na Drugą Nóżkę 117 Naleśnikarnia Cuda Wianki 106 Naleśnikowo 106 National Maritime Museum 40 National Museum Old Art Department 38 Naval Museum 38 Neon Streetfood Bar 72 New Synagogue 46 New Town Hall 41 Niemięsny Muka Bar 104 Noce i Dnie Garnizon 117 Novotel Centrum 141 Novotel Gdańsk Marina 141 Nowy Port Lighthouse 55 Och! Hostel 144 Ocneba 76 Old Town Hall 51 Oliwa Cathedral 49 Oliwa Cemetery 49 Oliwa Park 49 Oliwski 143

gdansk.inyourpocket.com 153

Index FEATURES INDEX Adult Entertainment Antoni Suchanek August Accords Beer Restaurants Big Wheel Blofeld Blyskawica Breakfast Burgers Centrum Haffnera Crooked House Daniel Fahrenheit Decoding the Menu Disaster at Sea Emigration Museum Forest Opera Frank Meisler Garnizon Gdansk Measurements Gdansk/Danzig Goldwasser Günter Grass Hot Beer/Wine Chocolate Lounges Ice Cream Janek Wisniewski Kvass Lech Walesa Lost Gdansk - Kino Neptun Lost Traditions Made in Gdansk Markets Milk Bars Modern Heroes Monciak New Town Hall Pancakes Pizza PKM Polish Alcohol Ryszard Kuklinski Scottish Gdansk Self-drive Something in the Water Sopot Centrum Straz Mieska The Kashubians The Post Office Seige The Rebirth of Granary Island Tipping Tribulations Tour Guides Tourist Card Tourist Information Tri-city football 154 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

116 79 57 76 32 122 36 72 71 98 117 42 78 107 39 38 35 47 33 67 92 46 113 67 66 60 111 61 104 114 97 132 94 87 89 41 106 90 15 115 135 82 16 128 96 13 123 55 68 91 34 37 32 120

Original Burger 71 Orlowska43 144 Pachołek Hill 49 Paczoskowo 122 Papugarnia 121 Pasta Miasta 87 Patio Español 100 Paulo Gelateria 66 Pescatore 87 Pierogarnia Mandu 95 Pierogarnia Pierożek 95 Pierogarnia Stary Młyn 95 Pijalnia Czekolady E. Wedel 67 Piñata 106 PING PONG 73 Piroman Steak House 102 Pitstop Electric Go-Carts 119 Piwnica Rajców 114 Pobite Gary 47 Podewils 139 Pod Łososiem 99 Polish Post Office 55 Pomelo Bistro 81 Pomeranian Tourist Information Centre 32 Prison Tower & Torture Chamber 30 Prologue Restaurant & Bar 81 Pub Charlie 71 Pueblo 94 Puro Gdańsk 142 Q Hotel Grand Cru 142 Quadrille 139 Qubus Hotel 142 Radisson Blu 139 Restauracja Grand Cru 82 Restauracja Pak Choi 73 Restauracja Ritz 82 Restauracja Sztuczka 83 Restauracja Ukraineczka 101 Restaurant Café Polskie Smaki 99 Retro Cafe 67 Rezydent 139 Ristorante Con Giardino 88 Ristorante La Cucina 88 Ristorante Sempre 88 Rock Shop 135 Romanesque Cellar 38 Room of Plenty 119 Royal Apartments 144 Różany Gaj 142 Ryszard Kukliński monument 135 Ryż 101 San Marco 89 Santo Porto Magda Gessler 74 Sapore Restaurant 89 Scandic Gdańsk 142 Seafood Station 72 Seafood Station Restaurant 74 Sea Towers 144 Sempre Pizza e Vino 90 Serio 91 Sheraton Sopot Hotel 139 Sisters Lodge Hostel 144 Skimondo 123 Śliwka w Kompot 83 Sofitel Grand Sopot 139 Sołdek 40 Sopocki Rynek 132 Sopot 737 L'entre Villes Restaurant

83 Sopot Fort 39

Sopot Marriott Resort & Spa 139 Sopot Museum 39 Sopot Pier 42 Sopot Pier Skating Rink 119 Spatif 117 Stary Maneż Browar Vrest 115 Statue to the Defenders of Westerplatte 55 St. Bridget's Church 61 St. Catherine's Church 51 St. John's Church 51 St. Mary's Basilica 33 St. Nicholas' Church 33 Surf Burger 71 Swojski Smak 97 Szafa Gdańska 135 Szafarnia 10 100 Sztuczka Bistro 84 Sztuka Wyboru 67 TAN 117 Tandoor House 77 Tandoori Love 77 Tapas De Rucola 115 Targ Rybny - Fishmarket 74 Taverna Zante 76 Tawerna Mestwin 100 T-Bone Steakhouse 102 Teatr Boto 67 Tekstylia 84 Tesoro 91 Tesoro Express 90 Thai Thai 101 Thao Thai 129 The Crane 40 The Docker's Inn 115 The Museum of the Second World War 54 The Spa at Sheraton Sopot 129 Tłusta Kaczka 97 Tom's Diner 72 Tourist Information Center 32 Tourist Information Sopot 32 Traficar 16 Trampoline Park NoGravity 124 Trattoria la Cantina 91 Trip2Gdansk 34 U Franka 124 ul. Piwna 51 Undercover City Games 118 Upland Gate 30 Urban Spa 129 Villa Admirał 143 Villa Akme 144 Villa Antonina 143 Villa Baltica 142 Villa Gdynia 143 Welcome Apartment 144 Whiskey on the Rocks 72 Wieżyca Ski Slope 123 Willa Marea 143 Wisłoujście Fortress 42 Wolne Miasto 143 Wołowa Buła 107 Wozownia Gdańska 97 Wtedy 117 yummy!

106 Zafishowani 74 Zhong Hua 142 Zielona Brama 123 Zła Kobieta 117 Żuraw 85