Gdańsk In Your Pocket - Autumn 2019 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Nightlife

Gdańsk

No. 59, Autumn 2019

Sopot & Gdynia

Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour

City Guide

p.26

What to do with the kids in Tri-city p.74 Oktoberfest in Gdańsk!

p.106

Shopping

Hotels

U e i

If b t a t

It p h In T m C

T h

Y P z c

Unique shopping experience in Galeria Klif If you’re looking for a special place for shopping, calm and cosy atmosphere and unique brands, visit Galeria Klif shopping mall in Gdynia, which meets all these expectations. It’s the only place where you have a chance to buy the latest collections of unique brands and recognised designers. You can get the latest fashion trends right away. You will find them among up to date collections available in 135 stores. Its unique offer makes it a truly special place. In line with the trend promoted by the most popular fashion bloggers, it combines the offer of chain brands with well-known fashion houses, and thus satisfies even the most demanding clients. Here, fashion becomes fun. In the department store, you’ll find such brands as Liu Jo, Patrizia Pepe, Emanuel Berg, Tous, Max Mara, Trussardi, Furla, Fraternity, Marciano Guess, Mo61, Pinko, Montblanc and many more. Moreover, the offer is complemented by chain brands, including H&M, Cubus, Calzedonia, Tommy Hilfiger and beauty, Douglas and Sephora. There is also a wide selection of interior decor stores available, including Villeroy & Boch, home&you, Duka, BBhome, Miloo, Spensen. You can have lunch in one of the restaurants in the food zone, offering Mediterranean, Polish, or Oriental cuisine as well as light salads or well-balanced dishes. Near the food zone, there is a cosy Italian restaurant, Como. There are also cafés with delicious icecream, desserts and excellent coffee.

M I LAN O

Galeria Klif, al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia, Information point: +48 58 664 93 45, klif.pl

Contents

Gdańsk

Park Oliwski in Autumn, Gdańsk Oliwa p.55

Foreword

Events 10 Arrival & Transport

The Tri-City

Gdańsk Sightseeing Old Town Walking Tour Solidarity World War II in Gdańsk Gdańsk Wrzeszcz Gdańsk Oliwa

26 36 40 44 52

Sopot Sightseeing

Gdynia Sightseeing

Tri-City Museums

Activities & Experiences

Kids & Families

Gdańsk Cafés

Restaurants Traditional Polish Dishes Gdańsk Restaurants

78 82

Sopot Restaurants Gdynia Restaurants

94 102

Nightlife Oktoberfest in Tri-city! Gdańsk Nightlife Sopot Nightlife Gdynia Nightlife

106 108 114 118

Spa & Wellness

120

Shopping Shopping Malls

124 130

Directory

132

Hotels

134

Maps & Index Tri-city Map Gdańsk Map Gdańsk Old Town Map Sopot Map Gdynia Map Wrzeszcz Map Oliwa Map Listings Index Features Index

27 29 31 61 67 49 57 140 142 7

Foreword When I first travelled to the Tri-city a few years ago, I was surprised to discover crowds of enthusiastic historical reenactors in the streets of Gdańsk Old Town despite the damp weather. I had arrived on the 11th of November, which is not only Armistice Day but also Polish Independence Day. This period not only realised the Second Polish Republic but was also instrumental in the development of the Tricity, most notably for the little fishing village of Gdynia. In my own personal history, just under a century later, I was unaware that this would soon become my home! As a tourist in the autumn period and the so-called ‘offseason’, I fell in love with the Tri-city as I walked through the millennia-old streets and absorbed its unique history (p.26). I drank coffee at some of the best cafes I’ve ever been to (p.80), saw some furious local metal bands perform in the dockyarks (p.110) and enjoyed the beautiful autumn trees and forest trails between Sopot and Gdynia (p.65). Now that the European summer is done for another year and many people are preparing to hybernate, I look forward to getting out to all the events (p.10) and activities that the north of Poland has to offer! It’s true that daylight hours are shorter but they say that the most fun is had at night (p.114). Something to keep in mind... Pierre is an Australian living in Gdynia. He first came to Poland in 2010 and, after several trips here, he chose to settle in the Tri-city area because of its unique history and proximity to the beach! In his spare time, he enjoys attending local concerts and writing music for indie computer games.

COVER STORY Brama Mariacka - a shadowy Gothic gateway that opens up onto Ulica Mariacka, the Amber district of Gdańsk Old Town. At the top of the street rests St Mary’s Basilica, the city’s most visible landmark. Read about this picturesque area on p.30 Photo by Tuomas Lehtinen

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published three times a year Writer & Editor: Pierre Duyker Sales: Bartosz Matyjas (+48) 784 966 824 Events: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94, Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz Research: Aleksandra Sosnowska, Dominika Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Nightlife = Drink Pasieka

Restaurant with creative dishes

Piwnica Rajcรณw

6 different beers cold and refreshing you drink as much as you want

BeerWall

self-service wall

Events

All About Freedom Festival, p.11

EVENTS BY DATE 04.10 - 20.10 » GDYNIA CLASSICA NOVA

Gdynia Classica Nova is a unique interdisciplinary cultural event geared towards the popularisation of classical music through concerts, film screenings, exhibitions, and seminars. This particular approach allows for an experience like no other. This year’s festival is going to be as innovative as always - some of the programme highlights include a concert of a percussion group Jeunesses Musicales, Mozart Jazz Concert (Krzysztof Herdzin - piano), Mozart On-Off/ Switch Mode (Mozart in an electronic version), and many other equally unique concerts. QTickets 1-60zł, www. gcn.gdynia.pl.

12.10 19:00 » DIRE STRAITS SYMPHONICALLY

Dire Straits Symphonically, the unique project by Krzysztof Herdzin (arrangement), Kuba Badach (vocal), and Marek Napiórkowski (guitar) returns in concert. The project fuses rock music with symphony to deliver a sound that will delight the most sophisticated audience member. „Money for Nothing”, „Sultans of Swing”, „Walk of Life”, „Brothers in Arms”, „Your Latest Trick”, and „Private Investigations” are just a few of the newly interpreted compositions that will be performed at the concert. Robert Kubiszyn (bass guitar) Tomasz Kałwak (piano), and Paweł Dobrowolski (percussion) will accompany the band.QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul. Słowackiego 23, Tickets 99-129zł, www.goodtaste.pl. 10

16.10 - 31.10 » RESTAURANT WEEK

Calling all foodies: Restaurant Week is taking over Poland: with restaurants participating in over 30 cities scattered across 13 Polish regions, the festival presents us with the opportunity to partake in a unique dining experience that varies depending on your city of choice. For a week this October, you’ll have the chance to sample special three-course meals from top Sopot restaurants for the price of 49 PLN each - close to a bargain, given the usual prices.QAdmisison 49zł, www.restaurantweek.pl.

18.10 19:00 » TRIBUTE TO...

Following the success of the previous edition of the Tribute to... concert, here comes the second Tribute to... consisting of 12 concerts performed across Poland. Justyna Steczkowska, Kasia Kowalska, Anna Wyszkoni, Kasia Cerekwicka, Halina Mlynkova, Kasia Moś, Igor Herbut, Krzysztof Cugowski, Andrzej Piaseczny and Janusz Radek will perform accompanied by the Polish Film Music Orchestra and the 100 member choir. The artists will pay a tribute to such musical giants as Michael Jackson, Elvis Presley, Whitney Houston, Joe Cocker, James Brown, Dolores O’Riordan (The Cranberries), Chester Bennington (Linkin Park), Freddie Mercury (Queen)and the great Polish artist Kora (Maanam).QQ‑6, Gdynia Sports Arena, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 8, tel. 58 783 55 00, Tickets 99299zł, www.eventim.pl.

Events 06.11 20:00 » FINK - ALL GIVE TOUR

Fin Greenall, known professionally as Fink, is an English singer, who started out as a DJ/Producer before progressing to making guitar-based folk/blues/indie music. He worked with Amy Winehouse, writing and recording her earliest demos and songs, as well as collaborating with John Legend on “Maker”, and as a producer and mentor with Flood (Nick Cave, PJ Harvey, Warpaint, U2). Fink continues to tour all over the world, performing over 100 concerts just in the last year on the support of his latest record. The concert in Gdańsk will be an opportunity to hear Fink’s older hits as well as the never heard before material. QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul. Słowackiego 23, Tickets 99-990zł, www.starymanez.pl.

06.11 20:00 » SOYKA

Stanisław Soyka is a prominent Polish jazz and pop singer, author of more than 30 albums. He has developed his own recognisable, original musical language and he continually surprises his fans with new musical interpretations. The author of well-known compositions, Tolerance and Play It Again, he returns this year with his new album Muzyka i Słowa (Music and Words) which he is going to promote during his music tour that will visit several Polish cities this Fall, starting on 02.09.2019 in Poznań and ending in Wrocław on 10.01.2020.QD‑3, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 62 62, Tickets 69-129zł.

11.11 - 19.11 » ALL ABOUT FREEDOM FESTIVAL

The name says it all, doesn’t it? The All About Freedom festival is an interdisciplinary cultural and artistic event exploring the idea of freedom and championing its values. With an ambitious programme of film screenings, concerts and performances, the festival examines its theme through the prism of the arts, while provoking and facilitating dialogue about freedom as a universal value and basic human right. The officially dubbed “City of Freedom” (Miasto Wolności) is a pretty fitting home to this international festival whose stature grows each year.QB‑1, European Solidarity Centre (ECS), Plac Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 12, Admission free, www. ecs.gda.pl.

20.11 20:00-23:00 » THE WORLD OF HANS ZIMMER - A SYMPHONIC CELEBRATION

The Lion KIng, Pirates of the Caribbean, Inception, The Dark Knight, Gladiator and Dunkirk are just a few film scores composed by Hans Zimmer. “The World of Hans Zimmer - a Symphonic Celebration” will present the composer’s works arranged for a live symphony orchestra for the first time. The audience will hear his famous film scores while enjoying stunning visual projections of film sequences chosen by Zimmer himself, who although not performing himself has acted as the musical director and curator of the tour. The symphony orchestra is conducted by Gavin Greenway, and among soloists will be Lisa Gerrard, Pedro Eustache and many others.QErgo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast 1, Gdansk, Tickets 149-449zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

------------------------------------------------PLACE:

S T A T E A R T G A L L E R YPLACE: I Sopot 81-720 Plac Zdrojowy STATE ART2GALLERY

------------------------------------OPENING HOURS:

Plac Zdrojowy everyday 10 – 202 I Sopot 81-720

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - OPENING - F R O M 5 . HOURS: 09.2017:

Tuesday 11.00 – 19.00 TuesdaytotoSunday Sunday 11.00 – 19.00 ----------------------------------------EXHIBITIONS:

EXHIBITIONS:

28.09 – 12.11 JAN MATEJKO Dzikie Historie I Wild stories 28.06 - 06.10.2019 Rusinek I Kalkowski -------------------------------------------WHAT YOU SEE IS WHO YOU ARE, 06.10 – 03.12 BRODZIAK Adam Smolana (1921 – 1987) 20.09 - 20.10.2019 -------------------------------------------06.10 – 28.01 MY NAME IS RED Artists of Ecole de Paris from 28.09.2019 - 12.01.2020 the collection of the Jerlitsyns-Zarski --------------------------------------------

27.11 19:00 » JAZZ BAND MŁYNARSKI MASECKI

Polish jazz traditions go back to 1920s when famous composers like Henryk Wars, Jerzy Petersburski or Artur and Henryk Gold were creating compositions for film, cabaret, and theatre. These traditions are kept alive by Marcin Masecki and Jan Emil Młynarski, the founders of Jazz-Band, performing the interwar jazz compositions. Their repertoire features pieces of unknown swing music, as well as popular tango pieces. The concert pays a tribute to Adam Aston, a celebrated singer, and Henryk Wars, the most important pianist and composer of prewar Poland.QD‑3, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 62 62, Tickets 99-149zł, www.filharmonia.gda.pl.

02.12 19:00 » KUBA BADACH

Kuba Badach is a Polish musician and a music producer, mainly known for performing with the pop band Poluzjanci, as well as a member of The Globtrotters. His 2009 album “Obecny (Present). Tribute to Andrzej Zaucha.”, the artist’s interpretations of the legendary songs of a Polish rhythm & blues and pop-jazz singer, Andrzej Zaucha, never cease to charm an audience. The concert in Gdańsk is yet another occasion to experience Kuba Badach’s heartwarming stage presence while listening to the new musical arrangements of Andrzej Zaucha’s songs.QF‑1, Stary Maneż, ul. Słowackiego 23, Tickets 99-129zł, www.starymanez.pl. 11

Events 03.12 20:00 » KATARZYNA NOSOWSKA ZMALOWANE WROTA

Katarzyna Nosowska is a lead singer of the Polish rock band Hey, a solo artist, a writer, the author of a popular book “A ja żem jej powiedziała...” ( “So I told her...”). Katarzyna Nosowska is an artist constantly re-inventing herself. Being a vocalist and a lyricist clearly does not complete her, she goes on to become a thoughtful writer, an observer of our hectic modern life, where rules are often dictated by social media. Her performance tour presents a new genre “a sit-down” - Nosowska will talk to the audience about life and her experiences, all of which will be presented against the intricate visual and musical backdrop. It will be funny, emotional and touching, but what’s more important, thoughtful.QD‑3, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 62 62, Tickets 109-149zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

13.12 - 15.12 » INTERNATIONAL CHOIR FESTIVAL OF ADVENT & CHRISTMAS MUSIC

If you feel like singing Christmas carols way before Christmas, if you love wearing reindeer sweaters, if you love to get into the holiday spirit for longer than a few days, then come to Sopot and enjoy the traditional Christmas Market while listening to the amateur choirs from all over the world competing for the Mundus Cantat statues. The International Choir Festival of Advent & Christmas Musicwill take place for the fifth time this year. The choirs will perform at the Sopot Centre, Saint George’s Church, Forest Opera (stage PFK) and Christ’s Church. The audience will be able to hear the choirs perform right after the try-outs at the Sopot Centre. The final concert will take place at 4pm at the Christ’s Church, followed by the announcement of winners. The special concert commemorating Michael Ray Dawidow will take place at the Christ’s Church on Sunday, Dec 15th, at 5pm. QAdmission free, www.munduscantat.pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 13.10 » HILDEGARD SKOWASCH. CLOSE YOUR EYES

Hildegard Skowasch’s work is characterized by considerable liberty: neither material nor medium determines function or expression. Her artworks form a surreal world. The artist works in various mediums such as drawing, sculpture, and installations, creating abstract worlds that are detached from any context. She herself calls her works “improvisations” - she combines various elements together and keeps re-working them until they become unified. The artist embraces errors and accidents as an inherent part of her creative process. Her amorphous paper sculptures are magical, witty, and sometimes disturbing. They form unique tableaux, inviting an audience to interact, which becomes an act of improvisation itself.QJ‑4, Museum of Modern Art, ul. Cystersów 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 124, Admission 6/10zł, www. mng.gda.pl. 12

UNTIL 10.11 » ONLY BROKEN CLOCKS SHOW THE RIGHT TIME

Time - the indefinite continued progress of existence and events in the past, present, and future. The elusive concept that is shared by everyone and yet nobody can define it. The artists Maarten Baas, Janusz Bałdyga, Anna Barlik, Stanisław Dróżdż, Izabela Chamczyk, Tomasz, Ciecierski, Ryszard Grzyb Adam Jastrzębski, Sigalit Landau, Tadeusz Sudnik, Piotr Szulkin, Janusz Kapusta, On Kawara, Agata Kleczkowska, Paweł Kowalewski, Tomasz Kulka, Roman Opałka, Jagoda Przybylak, Dan Reisinger, Jörgen Svensson, Joana Vasconcelos, and Katarzyna Żelaska attempt to capture time in their artwork. The exhibition confirms the idea that time determines art, is an essence of change and constant movement forward. What’s more important, it creates memories, because what else is art, if not remembering. The vernissage takes place on the 13th of September at 6 pm at the Gdańsk City Gallery on Powroźnicza 13/15.QC‑5, The Gdańsk City Gallery 2, ul. Powroźnicza 13/15, 16/17; Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 70 35, Admission free, www.ggm.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 20.10 » WHAT YOU SEE IS WHO YOU ARE

‘What you see is who you are” is Szymon Brodziak’s artistic credo. The artist is famous for his unconventional blackand-white photographs. The youngest photographer exhibited at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, Brodziak received numerous international awards at various photography competitions in the United States and Europe. Szymon Brodziak is currently ranked no. 1 on the World’s Top 10 Black&White Photographers’ list. The artist himself refers to his photographs as never realised film frames. His images of women placed in often unreal scenery tell uniquely sophisticated and sometimes emotional stories.QO‑6, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, Admission 7/10zł., www. pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 31.10 » A PLASTIC SEA

The exhibition located in a ship’s hold presents photographs taken by Hanna Leniec and Piotr Kukliński during the voyage of the sailing ship Katharsis II around Antarctica. The expedition’s main goal was to collect samples of sea water containing microscopic fragments of plastic commonly found nowadays in our seas. The voyage began in Capetown and ended in the Australian port of Hobart. The expedition was listed in the Guinness Book of World Records due to the shortest time it took a sailing ship to go around Antarctica.QS‑4, Gdynia Naval Museum, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, Admission 8/16zł, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon.

What’s going on? /GdanskInYourPocket

Events 28.09 - 12.01.2020 » MY NAME IS RED

The title of the exhibition My Name is Red is derived from the famous 1998 Turkish novel by Orhan Pamuk. It is a unique journey through the last 100 years of Polish art, focusing on a red colour motif. The color red is perceived as a symbol of life, strength, and power, but also blood, struggle and fire. It symbolises many opposing ideas - it is a source of life, but it is also synonymous with death. It offers warmth and security, but also terrifies. The exhibition features a series of artworks, both abstract and realistic, created using a variety of techniques, representing different styles and conventions, connected by the use of colour red.QO‑6, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, Admission 7/10zł, www.pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

AUTUMN 2019

10.11 - 31.12 » SHIPS: OUR PASSION

The interactive exhibit “Ships: Our Passion” presents many products and services provided by the biggest shipyard in Poland - Remontowa Holding S.A. New visual technology and computer simulators take you to the shipyard where you can go inside the ships or inspect an oil tanker. Future engineers can test their skills, and visitors will realize just how hard it is to assemble ships with the help of the crane simulator. The interactive map shows that the products of the shipyard reach each corner of the worldQD‑4, Maritime Culture Centre, ul. Tokarska 21-25 (entrance from ul. Długie Pobrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, Admission free, www.nmm.pl.

DIRE STRAITS SYMFONICZNIE 12.10 GDAŃSK

UNTIL 31.12 » THE ORIGINAL SOUNDS

The Original Sounds exhibition tell a story of a sound phenomena in culture, its evolution and function. It presents this particular subject on three levels: natural sounds, folk music and secondary interest in traditional music, and the way it is transformed by contemporary artists. The exhibition is accompanied by series of lectures, workshops and meetings. The project is enriched by the educational programme addressed to both older and younger generation.QJ‑5, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Cystersów 19 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 101, Admission 6/10zł, www.mng.gda.pl.

STANISŁAW SOYKA MUZYKA I SŁOWA 6.11 GDAŃSK

UNTIL 31.12 » TREASURES OF MIDDLE AGES

Middle Ages is a historical period full of contradictions. On the one hand Templar Knights, Inquisition and Plague, on the other - knight’s honor code, philosophy and states’ formation. The objects at the exhibition illustrate the great range of Medieval Art from the Christian beginnings of the fourth to sixth centuries through the late Gothic period. Wooden and alabaster sculptures, textiles and liturgical garments will be among the unique objects on display. Visitors will also have a chance to see Late Gothic furniture built in the Northern European style. The exhibition is a stroll through the history of the Middle Ages, its cultural traditions and religious beliefs.QB‑6, National Museum, Old Art Department, ul. Toruńska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 61 ext. 233, Admission 6/10zł, www.mng.gda.pl.

JAZZ BAND

MŁYNARSKI MASECKI 27.11 GDAŃSK

WWW.GOODTASTE.PL

Events UNTIL 01.12 » ARMED RIVERS. FLOTILLAS OF AN INDEPENDENT POLAND

It is 1918 and Marshal Józef Piłsudski orders a creation of a Polish Navy. It is going to be a river navy, since Poland does not yet have an access to the Baltic Sea. So called River Flotillas go on to take part in the Polish-Soviet war of 1920, and as of 1931 they become the main component of the eastern border defence forces. The exhibition presents not only written historical materials and photographs, but also films and animations. The exhibition is accompanied by an educational programme consisting of series of special events celebrating important anniversaries in the Polish river flotillas’ history.QS‑4, Gdynia Naval Museum, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, Admission 8/16zł, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 13.10 » NOMUS

The exhibition Nomus is a presentation of Gdańsk Modern Art Collection. The collection contains 165 artworks by 29 artists chosen from among many more purchased by the city of Gdańsk. The exhibition is an opportunity for the public to see the progress made in creating a permanent modern art collection. The two outdoor art objects that are part of the collection are “SOS” by Bohdan Szumczyk, and “New Life” by Elżbieta Jabłońska.QC‑5, Green Gate, ul. Długi Targ 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102, Admission 6/10zł, www.nomus.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

29.09 - 31.12 » SYMBOLS OF INDEPENDENCE

500 symbols of Polish independence. 500 military objects on display. Variety of militaria - uniforms, medals, eagle insignia and other items of military interest will be shown at the exhibition. The most interesting items on display belonged to the infantry of Piłsudski Legions, as well as the eagle fashioned out of the remains of the only German plane shot down during the Warsaw Uprising. The exhibition will be accompanied by a concert during which an audience will have an opportunity to hear Polish patriotic songs.QB‑6, National Museum, Old Art Department, ul. Toruńska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 61 ext. 233, Admission 6/10zł, www.mng.gda.pl.

UNTIL 13.10 » THE POWER OF COLOUR. PAINTINGS BY ABDULQADER AL RAIS

Abdul Qader Al Rais is regarded as one of the most influential artists in the Emirati art world. Known as the “godfather” of fine arts in his homeland, he is famous for symbolic abstract paintings that combine geometric shapes with Arabic calligraphy. The artist explores in his work the landscapes and traditions of his homeland. His oeuvre ranges from figurative art to abstract and is mainly characterised by an explosion of colour, flecked with calligraphy and underwritten by reverential devotion. Appearing often in his oil and watercolour paintings is a motif of slightly ajar doors, suggestive of past and future at the same time. His retrospective exhibition is an occasion to bring the Emirati art closer to the Polish audience.QJ‑4, Museum of Modern Art, ul. Cystersów 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 124, Admission 6/10zł, www.mng.gda.pl. 14

UNTIL 13.10 » THE STRENGTH OF FEMININITY. THE PAINTINGS BY RESA MASHOODI

Resa Mashoodi is an Iranian artist, currently working in Berlin. He creates beautiful, fairytale-like images of women, using the 16th century-old glazing technique which involves applying a transparent layer of paint over another thoroughly dried layer of opaque paint. The effect is absolutely stunning - a painting acquires a glow and depth that cannot be surpassed using other techniques. The artist is the well-known fixture in the Berlin art underground - he used to work at the legendary Kunsthaus Tacheles, where he was one of the founders of the project Manufaktur, as well as running his own gallery, Ora et Labora. His Gdańsk exhibition will feature 23 works, including four from the Gdańsk Series.QJ‑4, Museum of Modern Art, ul. Cystersów 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 124, Tickets 6/10zł, www.mng.gda.pl.

UNTIL 20.10 » BARBARA HOFF. POLISH DESIGN. POLISH DESIGNERS

The exhibition Polish Design Polish Designers series presents Barbara Hoff, the iconic fashion designer at the time of Socialism. The unique fashion designer, famous for her fashionable mass production Hoffland clothing brand, which allowed Poles to dress colourfully, originally and inexpensively despite the grey surroundings of the Socialist era. The exhibition will feature drawings, designs, photos, films from fashion shows, and the designer’s original brand clothing.QS‑4, Gdynia City Museum, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 586 62 09 10, Admission 5/10zł, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 20.10 » MOVIE THEATRE “WARSZAWA” AND OTHER THEATRES THAT BECAME “BIEDRONKAS”

30 years have passed since the beginning of Poland’s political transformation. Granted, most changes were for the better, but it is important to mention those that ultimately altered the character of old Poland. Small movie theatres were an essential fixture in every Polish city. Certainly not places to see the latest blockbusters, instead they would often show film festivals, old movie classics, and native productions. Every movie premiere was an occasion for big crowds to gather in front of a theatre and patiently wait in line to purchase a ticket. The line very quickly would become the best social gathering, people chatting about the upcoming film, books, theatre, and of course politics. Those places disappeared with the onslaught of multiplexes, and the buildings became home to discount stores. The exhibition pays homage to those places, among them movie theatre Warszawa and many others, which formed the city’s identity in the communist times.QS‑4, Gdynia City Museum, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 586 62 09 10, Admision 5/10zł, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Arrival & Transport

Boats docked in the Motława Canal, Gdańsk Old Town. | Photo by nkarol

BY PLANE GDAŃSK LECH WAŁĘSA AIRPORT The airport, Port Lotniczy Gdańsk im. Lecha Wałęsy (aka Gdańsk Lech Walesa airport), is 16km west of Gdańsk centre.Qul. Słowackiego 200, Gdańsk (Rębiechowo), www.airport.gdansk.pl. TAXI FROM AIRPORT After landing you enter the terminal building from the baggage hall where you’ll find a Gdańsk Tourist Organisation information point in front of you. The easiest way to each city is by taxi or rideshare. Neptun Taxi is the official taxi firm and can be trusted. Look out for their cars with the 19686 logo on the side. Be suspicious if offered a lift by any car not bearing their logo. A taxi from the front of the terminal to the centre of Gdańsk will cost you about 60zł. To Sopot will cost you around 70zł. To Gdynia will cost you 120zł. These are approximate prices, though fares will be higher at night and from 22:00 Sat until Mon 06:00. TRAIN FROM AIRPORT (PKM & SKM) By taking the escalator to the left as you leave the baggage hall, you will reach the Airport train station. The Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway (Polish: PKM) connects the airport via train to the locals’ yellow-and-blue commuter-train network, (Polish: SKM), which runs between Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia. Tickets can be purchased from ticket offices, one of the few ticket machines on the platform or from the conductor. A single ticket will cover both train systems. 16

TO GDANSK From the Airport’s PKM station, you need to catch the train going to Gdańsk Główny, the SKM network’s main station, to join this network. NOTE that a change may be required at SKM’s Gdańsk Wrzeszcz station. Tickets cost 3.80zł to Gdańsk. The journey will take about 30 mins on a direct train and about 45 mins if you need to change. TO GDYNIA It is possible to get a PKM train from the Airport station directly to Gdynia, but note it leaves from the opposite platform and is a 30-minute ride. Tickets cost 6.50zł. Make sure your train is headed towards Gdynia Główna, as some trains head out to the Kashubian countryside! Travelling via Gdańsk Główny or Gdańsk Wrzeszcz on SKM will extend the journey by another 30 minutes. TO SOPOT Take the PKM train to Gdańsk Wrzeszcz. Once there, you will need change to the SKM train in the direction of Gdynia Główna to get to Sopot. Tickets cost 6.50zł. The trip will take about 45 mins in total. Read more about PKM and SKM trains in Public Transport (p.20) and check train times at rozklad-pkp.pl/en. BUS FROM AIRPORT You will find the bus stops directly across the road as you leave the terminal. There are direct buses only to Gdańsk (no.210) and Sopot (no.122). A ticket to Gdańsk costs 3.20zł.

Arrival & Transport BY TRAIN The historic train station building of Gdańsk Główny (A2) is the centre of all railway activity in the Tri-city area. Please note: from September 2019, a three-year renovation project is underway. A temporary station can be found on Podwale Grodzkie next to KFC with 24-hour services. Please anticipate some detours and disorientation as you navigate the station system. Local SKM commuter trains to Sopot and Gdynia run frequently from platform 3 (p.21), though be aware of changes that may occur. Use gdansk.jakdojade.pl to help you navigate locally around the Tri-city. For national trains to major destinations, you should book online ahead of time to ensure yourself a seat - we recommend using the journey-planning website e-podroznik.pl for finding connections and booking tickets online. Thanks to new high-speed Pendolino trains you can get from Gdańsk to Warsaw in as little as 3 hours, or Kraków in only 5.5 hours. The PKM network covers regional travel in Pomerania and connects the Tri-city to the airport. GETTING FROM THE STATION TO OLD TOWN From the train station, you are only 10 mins walk from the heart of the Old Town. Once you have descended into the underground walkway, turn left and walk straight ahead until you reach the exit onto Podwale Grodze. However, do not exit here. Instead, follow the walkway around to your right where you will appear in a wider walkway with shops on your left and other exits on your right. Continue straight ahead to the very end until you reach EMPiK and follow it to the right, arriving outdoors. Ascend one of the two large stairs directly in front of you and turn left onto ul. Karmelicka. Walking straight ahead, this road becomes Jana Heweliusza. When you reach Galeria Handlowa Madison shopping centre (p.131) on your left, turn right onto ul. Rajska. From here, continue straight ahead on this road for 8 minutes, passing between the Hala Taragowa (p.129) on your left and the Baszta Jacek tower on your right. Eventually,

PKM Train at Airport Station

you will be in front of The Great Armoury (p.32) on your right, a huge pink building featuring a bunch of happy lions above the doorways. From here turn left onto ul. Piwna, then take the first right onto Lektykarska. Continue straight ahead and, at the first intersection, you are at the very middle of Długa Targ – the main street of Gdańsk Old Town. If travelling further than you’d care to walk, call a Neptun Taxi at (58) 196 86, or use gdansk.jakdojade.pl to navigate yourself there via tram or bus.

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY With its rich architectural details and iconic clocktower, Gdańsk’s brick Neo-Gothic train station is one of the city’s most handsome buildings. Built over 6 years and completed in 1900, Gdańsk Główny actually shares the same design as Gare de Colmar in distant Alsace, France. This makes the two stations ‘twins’! When the Soviet Army entered Danzig in 1945, they set fire to the station, which destroyed everything except, remarkably, the clocktower station managed to survive that time (get it?). It was quickly rebuilt after WWII and decades later, after Communism departed Poland, a general overhaul of the train station took place, including a two-level hall was built for shops. This addition, however, did not prove popular and was demolished in 2013. The station has undergone an estimated 50 million zł modernisation since 2017, and you’ll now find lockers, toilets, money exchange, plus fast food staples McDonalds and KFC, either in or next to the station.QA‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24-hours.

SKM Train at Gdańsk Główny Train Station

Arrival & Transport BY BUS GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY BUS STATION Most national and international buses arrive at Gdańsk Bus Station (Dworzec PKS), up on the hill just behind the Gdańsk Główny train station (Dworzec PKP). Give the main building, one of the decreasing number of remnants from the People’s Republic, a quick glance then head downstairs to the bus station hall. From there head down the escalator to the underground passage and then follow the directions on from Gdańsk Główny to Old Town (p.17). If travelling further than you’d care to walk, call a Neptun Taxi at (58) 196 86, or use gdansk.jakdojade.pl to navigate yourself there via tram or bus.QA‑2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www.pks.gdansk.pl. Ticket office open 08:30-16:30, Sat 08:30-16:30. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the office is open 06:30-18:30.

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. Cars and motorbikes must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). There are three main routes into the Tri-city: the E28 from the west via Gdynia; the E77 from the south-east which enters the city via Gdańsk, and the A1 highway from the south. ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDAŃSK Parking is available once you arrive in Gdańsk but remember that the Old Town area is permit parking only and you will be fined by the city police for driving into the Old Town (p.26) without a pass. Watch out for the signs marking the start of the permit parking zone. You will have to use street parking which is paid for and you will need to buy a ticket at the street machine. ARRIVING BY CAR IN SOPOT Whether you are arriving from the south (Gdańsk) or the north (Gdynia) you are very likely to make the approach to Sopot via the main Al. Niepodległości road. Sopot city centre is quite small and, can get quite snarled up with traffic during the summer months. There is street parking if you can find it with the area closest to the centre subject to parking tickets.

BY CAR Poland remains one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of driving here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of accidents and traffic jams around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDYNIA If you are coming from the south you will need to negotiate the other two cities first. This is best done by use of the Obwodnica (ring road) which will get you to the centre of Gdynia in about 20 minutes. Public parking lots are marked on the maps throughout this guide.

For someone taking to Polish roads today, take heed of these two warnings. Firstly, when driving outside of built-up areas, single lane roads get jammed-up easily with other cars and trucks. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers becoming short tempered and using fowl language (with complicatred grammar!) Secondly, be aware of the hard shoulders on these roads, the vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used as pavements by local people and cyclists, so be vigilant, especially on weekend nights! 18

Traffic in Gdańsk

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL All most travellers need to rent a car in Poland is to be 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car. Car rental companies like AVIS, EUROPCAR and HERTZ all have desks at Lech Wałęsa Airport, directly across from the arrival gate.

TAXIS Although most taxis are now trustworthy with honest meters, there are still certain drivers who will quite happily take advantage of your ignorance and overcharge for journeys. To guard against this ensure that you use a taxi which is clearly marked. Taxis are slightly cheaper if called in advance. If calling one of the abbreviated numbers such as 19686 please be aware that you may need to prefix it with 58 if calling from your mobile.

TAXI RECOMMENDED BY

DEAR CUSTOMERS WE OFFER THE LOWEST COST TRAVEL TO GDAŃSK, SOPOT AND GDYNIA.

WE ALSO OFFER TRIPS TO MALBORK, FROMBORK STUTTHOF AND AROUND KASHUBIA WE HAVE ENGLISH AND GERMAN SPEAKING DRIVERS

+48 58

+48 585 111 555

PLEASE PREFIX NUMBER WITH 58 IF CALLING FROM YOUR MOBILE.

CAR & BIKE SHARE

FREE NOW A very popular taxi app which originated in Germany but is now available internationally, including the Tri-city. It works well in English, the taxis are all in good condition and come decked out in Free Now livery.Qwww.free-now.com/pl/. NEPTUN TAXI (GDAŃSK) The only sanctioned firm at the airport with some Englishspeaking operators. Mini-vans are also available and if you are planning a journey outside of the city special rates are available for places such as Stutthof, Malbork and Frombork. You can pay by credit card and American Express.Qtel. (+48) 58 511 15 55, www.neptuntaxi.pl. TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets. Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your Englishspeaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+49) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/ iyp-gdansk.

BLINKEE ELECTRIC MOPEDS A company offering self-drive motor scooters which you ‘unlock’ by using their app and which you can pickup and drop-off wherever you like.Qtel. (+48) 22 290 25 25, www.blinkee.city. 0.69zł per minute, 0.09zł per minute when stopped. Up to a max of 89zł per day. TRAFICAR CAR SHARE Want your own car but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code and you’re in. Once you check the vehicle over, off you go, and you can drop it off in an legal parking space. The price is calculated by the length of time and distance travelled, e.g a 30min journey from Gdańsk to Sopot (about 15km) will cost you 27zł.Qwww.traficar. pl. Prices are calculated as 0.50zł/min (0.10zł/min when parked) + 0.80zł/km. 19

Arrival & Transport USEFUL TOOLS & APPS JAKDOJADE ‘Jak To Jadę’ literally means ‘How will I get there?’ and it’s a question readily answered! Despite the fact that Gdańsk’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the gdansk.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful and free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple euros you’ll spend to download it. E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Gdańsk, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only). FREE NOW Formerly MyTaxi, Free Now appeared in the summer of 2019 as the new dominant taxi app in Kraków, with plans to soon facilitate electric scooter rentals as well. Free Now is present in over 100 European cities, including Katowice, Poznań, Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot, Warsaw and Wrocław, and allows you to select the type of ride you need, pre-book a taxi up to 4 days in advance, track your ride’s progress and share it with others, pay within the app, save addresses and more. Find them at freenow.com. UBER If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Gdańsk and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates. Find them at uber.com 20

PUBLIC TRANSPORT SKM COMMUTER RAIL Travelling between the three cities of Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot is a cinch and best done using the SKM Commuter Train network. These yellow and blue trains run more or less every 10-15 minutes between 05:00-19:00 through the Tri-city and less frequently outside of these hours with trains also running occasionally between 00:00 and 04:00. Tickets can be bought from modern ticket machines which can be found on most platforms and have instructions in English, German and Russian. Alternatively, you can buy tickets in main stations where you see the sign for Kasa Biletowa or as a last resort from the conductor at the front of the train. If you buy tickets from the Kasa Biletowa make sure that you stamp them in the bright yellow boxes on or close to the platform to validate them, before getting on the train. If you don’t, you risk being fined by the plainclothed ticket inspectors. Ticket prices are dependent on the number of stops you are travelling but a journey from Gdańsk to Gdynia will cost 6.20zł and take about 35 minutes (Sopot will cost 4.20zł and take about 20 minutes). Bikes travel for free and should be carried in a specially marked carriage usually at one end of the train. Children under 4 travel for free although you also have to buy a 0zł ticket (we kid you not) and you are likely to be requested to provide proof of the child‘s age so basically keep passports on you at all times. ISIC cards allow for a student discount but only if you study in Poland. Euro 26 cards are not valid at all. TROLLEYBUSES, TRAMS AND LOCAL BUSES (ZKM/ZTM) can also zip you around the relevant cities. Tickets are issued by Gdańsk and Gdynia. Gdańsk tickets allow you to travel in Gdańsk (and Sopot) and Gdynia tickets allow you to travel in Gdynia (and Sopot). If buying a ticket in Sopot you will need to buy a ticket for the direction you are heading i.e. Gdańsk or Gdynia. TICKET PRICES Single - 3.20zł, 60 minute ticket - 3.80zł, Single ticket for use on a ‘fast’ line - 4.20zł, 60 minute ticket for ‘fast’ lines 4.80zł, 24-hour ticket - 13zł Tickets can be bought from kiosks or an increasing number of ticket machines which have English and German language options. If you‘re planning on staying longer then there is the Metropolitan ticket which gives you travel in the cities for 24 hours - the first type covers SKM local trains and then buses, trolleybuses and trams in EITHER Gdansk or Gdynia and costs 20zł (10zł reduced) or a second version which is all travel in all 3 cities at 23/11.50zł. These are available from SKM and ZTM points not the machines.

Arrival & Transport A recommended way to avoid having to decide on which ticket and then having to negotiate how to get it with the woman in the kiosk is to pick up a Gdańsk/Sopot/Gdynia Plus Tourist Card. As well as the discounts and free entry to many of the sights that the card brings, you will also be entitled to free travel on the whole Tri-city transport network. Pick it up at the tourist information points around the city.

DANZIG/GDAŃSK STREET NAMES

PKM (POMORSKA KOLEJ METROPOLITALNA) The Pomorska Kolej Metropolitalna (Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway, abbreviated as PKM) is worth knowing about if you want to get to the airport on public transport or venture down into Kashubia. The line was only completed in 2015 and as well as opening up towns like Kartuzy as commuter towns it also connects the three cities with the airport. Trains run regularly between the airport’s own station and Gdańsk Głowny, although a change may be required at Gdańsk Wrzeszcz. Passengers travelling to and from Sopot may also have to change at Gdańsk Wrzeszcz. There is a direct link with Gdynia but note it leaves from the opposite platform. Tickets can be purchased from ticket offices, one of the frustratingly few ticket machines on the platform or from the conductor and it is possible to buy a single ticket for the journey. You can find the timetable at rozklad-pkp.pl/enQtel. (+48) 58 721 21 70, www.rozklad-pkp.pl. Single ticket to/from Gdansk 3.80zł. Single ticket to/from Sopot or Gdynia 6.50zł. SKM (SZYBKA KOLEJ MIEJSKA) SKM - Szybka Kolej Miejska (English: Fast Urban Railway) is the locals’ yellow-and-blue commuter-train network, which runs between Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia - the Tri-City area. Tickets can be purchased from ticket offices, one of the frustratingly few ticket machines (with English, German and Russian language options) on the platform or from the conductor, though the latter will cost an extra 2.80zł. As a ticket pricing reference, from Gdynia to Gdańsk (one end to the other) costs about 6.50zł. The SKM connects to the PKM (Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway), which assists in regional travel and getting to the Airport. You can change trains from SKM to PKM and visa versa at Gdańsk Główny and occasionally at Gdańsk Wrzeszcz station. Tickets to the aiport from Gdańsk cost 3.80zł. The journey will take about 30 mins on a direct train and about 45 mins if you need to change.Qtel. +48587212170, www.rozklad-pkp.pl.

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Postcard from the 1890s of Jopengasse, Danzig (today ul. Piwna, Gdańsk)

The north of Poland has changed hands between the Germans, Prussians and Poles several times over the last millennia. Though Gdańsk is now a Polish city, a century ago the streets of Danzig were known by German names. Here are some examples of Danzig/ Gdańsk street names in the city centre. For more examples, head to www.danzig-online.pl and click on ‘Old Names Translator’. DANZIG Altstädtischer Graben Baumgartsche Gasse Bleihof Brotbänkengasse Elisabethwall Fischmarkt Frauengasse Häkergasse Heiliggeistgasse Hinter Adlers Brauhaus Jopengasse Judengasse Kohlenmarkt Lange Brücke Langer Markt Lavendelgasse Lazarettgang Milchkannengasse Nonnenhof Paradiesgasse Rittergasse Stadtgraben Tischlergasse Zapfengasse

GDAŃSK Podwale Staromiejskie Heweliusza Ołowianka Chlebnicka Wały Jagiellońskie Targ Rybny Mariacka Straganiarska Święto Ducha Browarna Piwna Spichrzowa Targ Węglowy Długie Pobrzeże Długi Targ Lawendowa Szpitalna Stągiewna Brygidki Rajska Rycerska Podwale Grodzkie Stolarska Czopowa

The Tri-city SOPOT

Gdańsk Waterfront in the evening.

Photo by PPESKY5

While this guidebook is succinctly called Gdańsk In Your Pocket, it actually covers the region that locals refer to as Trójmiasto, or the Tri-city. The Tri-city is made up of three cities - Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia - each proudly independent, each with its own city government, and, most importantly, each with its own unique history. All three cities are positioned along the Baltic coast, with Gdańsk in the south, Gdynia in the north, and only about 20km of shoreline separating them - in the middle of which is Sopot. With each city extremely well-connected via public transport (p.20), it’s not uncommon for locals to spend the day at the beach in Gdynia, have dinner in Gdańsk and go out for drinks afterwards in Sopot. Though steady development over the last 70 years has essentially turned the Tri-city into one continuous coastal conurbation today, each city, and each district of each city, has retained its own unique characteristics, which is what makes hopping between them so rewarding in the first place.

GDAŃSK The oldest, largest, and most internationally known city in Trojmiasto, Gdańsk has been a cosmopolitan city for centuries and has welcomed people of all nationalities and creeds for the vast majority of them. On two occasions it has even been a state in its own right, and traditionally people from here would describe themselves not by nationality, but as ‘Danzigers’ (to use the German name) or ‘Gdańszczanin’ (to use the Polish), which demonstrates the unique nature of this once great port city. Seen as the main tourist destination in the region, Gdańsk offers visitors a gloriously rebuilt Old Town (p.26), with the main tourist fare, The Royal Way, leading you through several city gates to the city’s picturesque riverfront (p.30). Rich in history and maritime culture, Gdańsk was also the scene of two of the key moments of the 20th century - the first shots of WWII were fired here (p.40), while 40 years later the first cracks in the Iron Curtain were forced open by the Solidarity social movement (p.36). Today, arguably the city’s two most important attractions are the peerless World War II Museum (p.42), and the European Solidarity Centre (p.38) - the immediate area of the historic Gdańsk Shipyards around which has been given the European Heritage Label. 22

S opot is one of the most famous and fashionable towns in PL, particularly in the summer months when it often feels that half of the country has decamped here to see and be seen. The town’s modern history began in the early 19th century with the building of a bathhouse and spa by a retired French doctor, after which - as part of the German Empire and then as a part of the Free City of Danzig (Gdańsk) - the spa resort’s reputation as a playground for Europe’s ruling classes, many of whom had summer homes here, steadily grew. Today, Sopot’s sandy beaches, top class hotels and spas (p.120), and kilometres of bike paths and forest trails continue to make it a popular place to come and relax, but it’s also known for its energetic nightlife (p.114) making it the Tri-city’s primary party destination. Lined with bars, restaurants and clubs, the main pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino (known locally as ‘Monciak’, p.58) - is one of the most happening places anywhere in summertime, leading hundreds of tourists to the city’s packed beaches and the iconic Sopot Pier (p.59).

GDYNIA Gdynia meanwhile is a city which was born with a purpose only one century ago. The League of Nations’ decision to create the Free City of Danzig (Gdańsk) in 1919 left the neighbouring village of Gdynia in the newly-reformed Polish state, and at the end of the narrow strip of land that give it access to the sea. Thus this quiet fishing village became the focus of huge development, and by 1926 a new Polish port city had been created. Built to embody Polish independence, and challenge the influence of Gdańsk, though the world has changed a lot in the last century, Gdynia still often sees itself playing the role of yang to Gdańsk’s ying. Lacking the history of its better known neighbour, Gdynia is a true 20th century city, with its construction covering the Art Deco period of the 20s and 30s, the Socialist era of postwar Europe and the modern designs of post-communist Poland. Gdynia boasts some beautiful coastline (p.65), as well as some surprisingly good restaurants and cafes (p.102) and bars (p.118). Enjoy exploring the port, check out the WWII battleship ‘Błyskawica’ (p.65) and don’t miss the Emigration Museum (p.64).

Gdynia Waterfront at Night.

Photo by Krzysztof Romański. Courtesy of Gdynia City Council.

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Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour

Długi Targ (The Long Market) in Autumn, Gdańsk Old Town. | Photo by kilhan.

A unique blend of Germannic and Central European medieval architecture, gilded by the wealth of maritime trade, Gdańsk’s historical centre is one of the largest and most-unique, not only in Poland, but in the whole of Europe. Many of the streets in Gdańsk Old Town have held the same position and name for more than 500 years. What were warehouses, workshops and the state-ofthe-art factory spaces in their time are now restaurants, cafés and shopfronts, servicing hundreds of thousands of tourists that visit the Tri-city area every year. Depending on how much time you yourself have chosen to spend here, chances are it’s at least a day (we hope)! For this reason, we’ve made up a walking route past what we believe are the most important sites and museums in Gdańsk’s centre. It’s about 1 hour of walking, plus the time you choose to spend at each point. We’ve also listed the approximate time it takes to see the museums listed on the map. In total, this self-guided walking tour may take you 4-5 hours. So put on your most comfy shoes, make sure you have a fullycharged camera/smart phone and plenty of water! 1 UPLAND GATE This 16th-century gate, the main entrance into the Old Town, was the original starting point for The Royal Way. It was here that the Polish king was welcomed and given the keys to the city. The gate was originally surrounded by a 50m moat and was named for its upland location above the water level. The metal pulleys used for raising and lowering the drawbridges are still visible beneath the coats of arms of Poland, Prussia and Gdańsk. The gate has undergone major renovation work in recent years and now houses a tourist information point.QB‑4, Wały Jagiellońskie 2A, Gdańsk.

2 AMBER MUSEUM Housed in Gdańsk’s medieval Fore-gate building (once home to the Prison Tower and Torture Chamber), this multi-story exhibit delves extensively into the history of Baltic Amber. The impressive collection of ‘inclusions’ (when bugs or plants are caught inside the amber) is intriguing to look at, and the many amber creations, from inkwells to spoons to a stunning Fender Stratocaster guitar, shows the material’s diversity. A large open room at the top of the building houses an impressive array of modern amber jewellery that appears more artistic than wearable. Many find the separate exhibits on the building’s past as a torture chamber uncomfortable – and considering the piped-in soundtrack of pained cries, we understand why – but they are a must-see, if for no other reason to find out what a ‘heretic’s fork’ and ‘thumb screwing’ are. The lower part of the building also housed the city’s courthouse from where convicted criminals would be sentenced to hang on the square outside. Many of the exhibit rooms throughout the ancient building are small and cramped, and if you happen to visit on the same day as a school group it’s a nightmare, but it’s well worth a visit nonetheless. In the summer months take advantage of the viewing platform in the tower. Tuesdays are FREE admission. Museum time: 1 hour.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www. muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Mon 10:00-13:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y

Book a Guided Tour http://bit.ly/GdanskWalkingTour

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Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour 3 GOLDEN GATE The virtues of Peace, Freedom, Wealth, Fame, Piety, Justice and Concord are depicted in allegorical statues adorning the balustrade of this gate overlooking ul. Długa. Designed by Flemish architect Abraham van den Blocke, it was built between 1642-44, later destroyed during WWII and not restored until 1997. An inscription on the gate reads, “Small states grow by concord, great ones fall by disagreement.” As you walk through the gate, you are now on ul. Długa (Long Street) - the heart of Gdańsk Old Town.QB‑4, ul. Długa, Gdańsk. 4 LONG MARKET & NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN This popular bronze statue of the powerful sea god was first erected in 1549 and later converted to its current fountain form in 1633. Fortunately, during WWII the fountain was spared from destruction because it was taken apart and hidden with other Gdańsk treasures. Neptune returned here, to the centre of Długi Targ (Long Market), in 1954 and was restored in 2011/12. The ‘market’ itself is unique because, unlike the ‘square’ that most European cities have, Długi Targ is more of a narrow, continuous strip. The colourful and ornate houses on either side used to be home to Gdańsk’s richest, most elite residents. Assemblies and executions took place on the space in front of Artus Court in place, thus each window on every residence acted as a TV screen of the 17th century!QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ, Gdańsk.

5 ARTUS COURT This impressive mansion, a symbol of the city’s power in the 16th and 17th centuries, served as an exchange and as the seat of St. George and the brotherhoods of rich patricians. Founded as a meeting place for merchants and dignitaries, it was named after King Arthur, of round table fame, and hosted many a noble guest. Following a fire in 1841, it was renovated into a more Gothic form, complete with ostentatious sculptures and paintings illustrating man’s merits and vices. It’s beautiful interior and museum are worth a visit. Artus Court still plays an important part in public life today and is the scene of important receptions and meetings. Museum time: 30 minutes. QC‑5, Długi

Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour Targ 43/44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www. muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y 6 THE GOLDEN HOUSE A few doors down is Złota Kamienica at Długi Targ 41 is like the ‘No.10 Downing Street of old Danzig’, where a number of the cities historic mayors have resided. It was commissioned in 1609 by the then-mayor of Danzig, Johann Speymann, designed by the architect Abraham van den Blocke and constructed over a 9 year period. The façade has gilded stone bas-reliefs depicting battle scenes and figures of rulers, including Polish kings Zygmunt III Waza and Władysław Jagiełło. In the central part of the relief is the coat of arms of the Speymann family. Above the entrance is a statue of Mercy and inscriptions in Latin: “Love virtue, it will make you happy, if you want to persecute it, it will overthrow you” and also “Act Justly, Have No Fear”. Proceeding residents have claimed to have seen the ghost of Speymann’s wife, Judyta, in the halls of the Golden House who whispers the “Act justly...” phrase to people she encounters! The four statues waving to you from the balustrade at the top are the classical figures of Cleopatra, Oedipus, Achilles and Antigone. The building is crowned with a statue of Fortune. The tenement house was destroyed in 1945, except for the facade, which was used as a basis for reconstructing the building behind it.QC‑5, Długi Targ 41-42, Gdańsk.

San Marco Ristorante Sunny Italy right next to the Golden Gate

7 FAHRENHEIT MONUMENT An important name and instrument in science! Daniel Fahrenheit (1686 – 1736), the physicist and inventor, was born just a block away from this recreation of his ‘Mercury in Glass’ thermometer and barometer. Though he was the first to invent the mercury thermometer in 1714, this particular example, as the plaque below notes, was modelled on his improved model from 1752.QC‑5, ul. Mieszczańska, Gdańsk. 8 FREE CITY OF DANZIG HISTORICAL ZONE Found tucked away in the shadow of the Green Gate, what looks like little more than a three-minute diversion transpires to be a fascinating insight into the city. From 1920 until 1939 the city was a semi-independent state, better known as the ‘Freie Stadt Danzig’ (Free City of Danzig). This exhibition aims to celebrate those times because while the rise of fascism will always cast a pall over the city, it must also be remembered this was far from the nationalist hotbed that is always assumed. The campaign for long term Germanization had been reasonably effective, yet still over 80% of the population regarded themselves as Danzigers first and foremost – not Germans, and not Poles, but the citizens of a unique melting pot in which two nations coexisted. This period is remembered by way of dozens of everyday treasures: on show is everything from banknotes to beer bottles, from tourist guides to cigarette packets. The exhibition features multimedia displays as well as exhibits connected with Danzig trams. While all the texts next

San Marco Ristorante ul. Długa 4, 80-827 Gdańsk tel. +48 515 370 038 e-mail: kontakt@sanmarcoristorante.pl www.SanMarcoRistorante.pl fb: SanMarcoGdansk 29

Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour to the displays are in Polish make sure you ask for one of the guidebooks available downstairs which clearly describe each display in English (or Russian or German). Museum time: 30 mins.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 25/27, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 602 27 80 51. Open 12:00-18:00. From October open 12:00-17:00. Admission 8/5zł. N 9 GREEN GATE Congratulations! You have just completed ‘The Royal Way’. This magnificent four-arched gatehouse on the waterfront was built as a palace for Polish monarchs, though ironically no Polish king ever stayed in the building. Lech Wałęsa, on the otherhand, had his office here before moving to the European Solidarity Centre. The gate leads to the Green Bridge, which spans the Motława River and which used to be raised to stop the riff-raff from getting into the Old Town. Following careful renovation, the gate now bears an uncanny resemblance to Amsterdam’s central train station, and hosts an art gallery and the Gdańsk Photo Gallery. QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102, www.nomus.gda.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, plus additional 2/1zł for the Gdańsk Photo Gallery. Y 10 LONG WATERFRONT The waterfront promenade in Gdańsk Old Town, formerly named Długi Most (Long Bridge), stretching along the western shore of Motława. Each ‘water gate’ along the street is very characteristic of architecture in old Danzig. The first mention of the Marina on this Motława shore comes from the fourteenth century. For many centuries, this promenade was made of wooden platforms of varying height, used for unloading and unloading of ships. In the 17th century, they merged into one bridge. In 1858, during a visit to Gdańsk, the Poet Jadwiga Łuszczewska described Motława along Długie Pobrzeże as being “so crowded with boats that the water is barely visible”. It was around this time that the Bówke, harbourside workers with a reputation for drunkeness, used to operate. After WWII, the street was rebuilt from concrete elements and paved

Waterfront

Photo by Goldwasser

with polished marble slabs. After the summer season 2019, a renovation of Długi Pobrzeże has been planned with expected completion by November 2022. QC4, C‑5, D‑4, Długie Pobrzeże. 11 CHLEBNICKA GATE Of all the gateways in Gdańsk, this one that’s the best preserved, and that’s no small feat considering the pounding the Russians gave this city at the end of the war. Thought to have been completed in 1450, this signature piece of Gothic style features curved cornices and a pointy arch. On the Motława side of the gate, a beady-eyed scan will reveal the oldest coat of arms on show in the city - a crest of two silver crosses imposed on a red shield added in 1457. That’s not the only piece of identification stamped on the structure. Duck through the passage and you’ll find a lily, once the symbol of the Dukes of Pomerania.QC‑5, ul. Chlebnicka 21, Gdańsk. 12 ST. MARY’S GATE If there’s a more scenic street in Gdańsk we’ve yet to find it. Mariacka is, without a doubt, the jewel in Gdańsk’s crown, a picturesque street of gabled houses and gruesome gargoyles. Towering over it, St Mary’s, the largest brick church in the world. And there’s no better way to approach it than through Brama Mariacka, a shadowy Gothic gateway that could have been built with Dracula in mind. First mentioned in 1484, this place took a hammering in 1945, and pics from that time reveal an image not unlike Hiroshima. Painstakingly rebuilt between 1958 and 1961, after which time the sidewing has served as seat of the Archaeological Museum. The gate has been renovated and the shiny polychrome you see of two lions holding the Gdańsk coat of arms aloft was restored in 2006.QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 28/30, Gdańsk. 13 UL. MARIACKA (ST. MARY’S STREET) Locally known as simply ‘Mariacka’, this cobbled street lined with amber galleries and cafés, runs from Długie Pobrzeże up to the bottom of St. Mary’s Basilica. It was badly damaged during WWII, though unlike other streets in Old Town Gdańsk which were reconstructed with new materials, ul. Mariacka was pieced back together with salvaged-debris from elsewhere in the neighbourhood. The most notable relics on this street are the ornate gargoyle rain gutters on the gabled terraced houses, known locally as Rzygacze (English: Spewers). The exquisite detail of the railings, front stoops and stone terraces lining the street are characteristic of Gdańsk Old Town. Gdańsk is the amber capital of the Baltic states and you will see many stalls selling this curious mineral all over Tri-city. However, ul. Mariacka is where the most knowledgable and prestigious amber dealers can be found. Take a look at Galeria Wydra, Manufaktura Bursztynu S&A and Amberstyl just around the corner. Some of the best coffee houses in Tri-city reside here as well, most notably Drukarnia in the old printing house. Next door there is the charming abode of Café Kamienica and Literacka is a cosy wine bar that offers wild boar and other impressive items on their food menu. ul. Mariacka is a must visit in Gdańsk! QC‑4, ul. Mariacka, Gdańsk.

Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour

Al Ponte Ristorante is an unusual and atmospheric place created from a passion for good Italian cuisine, wine and leisurely feasting. Located in the neighborhood of Old Town Gdansk, patrons can enjoy the beautiful view of the Motlawa River while enjoying live music preformed by local artists.

Mariacka Gate 14 ST. MARY’S BASILICA Gdańsk’s most visible place of worship, St. Mary’s Basilica is believed to be the largest brick church in the world. The interior vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31 chapels. It can hold up to 25,000 people, which was useful during the period of martial law between 1981 and 1983 when members of the Solidarity movement sought refuge here. The church can be accessed through seven gates with intriguing names like the Purse Maker’s Door. Interestingly, the sculptor who carved the crucifix of Christ nailed his errant son-in-law to a cross so as to add realism to his work. St. Mary’s was seriously damaged during WWII and the original frescoes have since been whitewashed, which far from leaving an impression of stark emptiness bring out the best in the relics throughout and creating a marvellous feeling. Of note is the enormous astronomical clock dating from 1464. Its complex dials show the time and date, phases of the moon, the position of the moon and sun in relation to the zodiac signs, and the calendar of saints. Adam and Eve ring the bell on the hour. According to legend, the clock’s creator had his eyes gouged out so he’d never make a clock to better than this one. You’ll hear this story about every astronomical clock in Europe, and it makes you wonder why mediaeval clockmakers ever accepted commissions. The 78-metre tower, which involves climbing 405 steps, houses a viewing platform with cracking views of old Gdańsk and has benefited from a 3.3 million Euro renovation. The church is FREE to enter, but the tower will cost 10zł. If you want to go up, pace yourself! Climb and view: 30mins.QC‑4, ul. Podkramarska 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82, www.bazylikamariacka.pl. Open 08:30-17:30; Sun 11:00-12:00, 13:00-17:30. Viewing platform open 09:00-20:00. From October open 09:00-18:00. In December open 10:00-16:00 Sat, Sun only. Admission to viewing tower 10/5zł. Y

ul. Grodzka 10, Gdańsk biuro@alpontegdansk.eu tel.: + 48 58 351 04 51 www.alpontegdansk.eu

Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour 15 SWIĘTEGO DUCHA STREET As you duck through the alleyway between the church walls and follow it along the right, back to the main street, you are now on ul. Świętego Ducha (Holy Spirit Street). As you proceed down on the route, take a look at the buildings. Unlike ul. Mariacka, this is what a replicated ‘old’ street in Gdańsk looks like. Restoration has been done with varying success. Most notably, the concrete-rendered fronts were done during the Communist-era.QC‑4.

The iconic Crane on the waterfront

THE GREAT ARMOURY

Photo by Diego Delso, delso.photo, License CC-BY-SA

Built between 1600-09, this was a working arsenal until the 1800s and is the finest example of Renaissance architecture in the city. The well-like structure in front was used to transport munitions from underground storage to ground level. Badly damaged in WWII and even hosting a supermarket during communism, it’s now the Gdańsk Academy Of Fine Arts, By the way, when you’re standing out front of the building, can you see the horny lion?QB‑4, Targ Węglowy 6, Gdańsk, www.zbrojowniasztuki.pl. Open 11:00-18:00. Open‑ ing hours vary according to exhibitions. 32

16 CRANE (ŻURAW) The Crane is one of the defining symbols of Gdańsk and represents what little is left of the city’s great trading age. First mentioned in 1367, the original structure burnt down in 1442 before its current design was created between 1442-1444. As a working crane, it was used to transfer cargoes and to put up masts on ships. At one time this was the biggest working crane in the world but it also served a defence function and as one of the gates to the city. It had a lifting capacity of 4 tonnes to a height of 11 metres and this was achieved by two huge wooden wheels at its heart each with a diameter of 6 metres. These wheels were originally powered by men walking inside of them to turn the lifting mechanism. It remained a working crane until the middle of the 19th century and was 80% destroyed in 1945 during the Battle for Gdańsk. After the war, it was rebuilt and donated to the Polish Maritime Museum of which it remains a part today. You will be able to view a collection of permanent exhibitions inside including one on port life between the 16th and 18th centuries. In Polish only, displays include models of lighthouses, the old port, life-size recreations of counting houses and old port life in general plus access to the crane’s two huge drive-wheels. Museum time: 30 minutes.QD‑4, ul. Szeroka 67/68, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 69 38, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. From November open 10:0016:00. Admission 10/6zł. Wed free.Tickets available from the Maritime Cultural Centre next door. Y 17 TRADER’S GATE (BRAMA STRAGANIARSKA OR HÄCKERTOR) Built between 1481 and 1492, this brick beauty comes crowned with two turrets and was obviously inspired by the gates to Mariacka and Chlebnicka. The unique feature here is a heraldic coat of arms seated over the entrance,

Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour bearing the emblems of Gdańsk, Prussia and Poland (taking centre bow), proof if any were required to the peaceful coexistence these rival communities enjoyed for such long spells. Almost completely destroyed at the tail end of WWII, this Gothic-style gate was reconstructed from close to nothing. It is interesting to note that, in keeping with the reconstruction policy of post-war Gdańsk, the gate was not rebuilt to look like it did in 1939 Danzig but instead using an 18th-century painting as a basis. In this way, the gatehouse would resemble the way it had looked the last time the city had been Gdańsk! Since reconstruction, it has been used for residential housing since then. Attesting to this is a plaque confirming the presence of one of its more famous residents, Zbyszek Cybulski. Unknown in the west, Cybulski was basically Poland’s answer to James Dean - a non-conformist rebel known for his intense style, black coat and too-cool-for-school specs.QD‑3, ul. Straganiarska 37, Gdańsk. 18 OŁOWIANKA ISLAND Ołowianka gets its name from the Polish word ‘Ołów’ (English: Lead) due to the fact that lead metals, sailed upriver from Olkusz in Silesia, were stored on the Island in the Teutonic era (1343 - 1454). Centuries later, these warehouses were used as granaries, examples of which you will see later. As you cross over the footbridge, look at the building to your left: the Ołowianka Inn is a pre-WWII building in a typical half-timbered architectural style, which features a ‘Prussian-wall’ façade. You will see this all over Gdańsk and later on Granary Island as well. QD‑3, D‑4, Ołowianka, Gdańsk. 19 THE POLISH BALTIC PHILHARMONIC The Philharmonic Hall is a neo-gothic red-brick building that used to house the city’s hydroelectric power plant, built between 1897-98 by the Berlin company Siemens & Halske. Suffering but surviving the damage done to it in 1945, The plant was in operation until 1996, when it officially

Cuisine, produce and atmosphere all 100% "a la française"or simply...French.

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The Baltic Philharmonic

ul. Spichrzowa 24/1 (entrance from Stągiewna), Gdańsk tel. +48 58 765 11 12 www.facebook.com/po.francusku

Gdańsk Old Town Walking Tour buildings on the waterfront. On the port side of Sołdek and a little further up the dock, you can see more examples of Prussian Wall granary buildings that now house the Maritime Museum. Museum time: 1 hour.QD‑4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11 ext. 327, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Y

Sołdek Museum Ship on the Motlława Canal

closed. The idea to transform the derelict plant came from Prof. Roman Perucki, who had attended a concert in an abandoned power plant in Norrkoeping, Sweden, and immediately envisaged the Ołowianka plant in the same light. Today, the Philharmonic puts on a range of shows around the tri-city, including their building right on the Motlawa river. Tickets to this powerhouse of music can be bought at the building at the times listed below or at the venue four hours before show time.QD‑3, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 62 62, www.filharmonia. gda.pl. Tickets 7-100zł. Box office open 10:30 - 18:00, Tue 09:30 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 4 hours before the performance. Closed Mon. Note that opening hours will be subject to change. 20 THE ROYAL GRANARY Granary buildings were a symbol and a major source of the city’s wealth. These glorious landmarks existed from the 15th-century onwards until 1945, when these buildings had been levelled by Russian bombers. The Royal Granary was the only building in this area to remain relatively intact. Its construction began in 1606 and was managed, once again, by our Flemish friend, Abraham van den Block. After a two year construction, the result was a seven-storey building, erected on the banks of the Motława River. It is equipped with numerous windows that allow lighting, and above all, excellent ventilation of the interior, which was necessary for the storage of grain. Later you will see the redevelopment on Granary Island, the true centre of Gdańsk’s old grain industry. QD‑4, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 11 11, www.hotelkrolewski.pl. 21 SS ‘SOŁDEK’ MUSEUM SHIP The first steamship built in Polish Gdańsk after 1945 at what was to become the Lenin Shipyards, the Sołdek has been turned into a living museum. Launched in 1948 this old ship was an ore collier before retiring to become a museum ship and just about every inch of it can be accessed from the cramped engine room to the bridge to the pokey little cabins the crews lived in. You also have an opportunity to view and snap some photos across the Motława canal at Długie Pobrzeże, where you can see the Crane and other

22 GDAŃSK MARINA Gdańsk is a port city with a strong maritime history. This heritage is shared by alot of locals and so boating is a hobby that many take rather seriously. In the Marina are hundreds of boats of all shapes and sizes. Some are old, some are new. Built in 1997 to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of the city, this area is also alot quieter than the hustle-andbustle of Old Town. If you are privy to an afternoon beer, consider visiting Brovarnia (p.108). QD‑5, Pończoszników 2, Gdańsk. 23 STĄGIEWNA GATE / GRANARY ISLAND Stągiew is Polish for ‘Milk Can’ and the gate is shaped like that, hence the name ‘Stągiewna Gate’. As you pass through, you are now entering Granary Island. The afore-mentioned grain industry was most prevalent in this area and, by 1643, there were 315 granaries on the island capable of storing up to 250,000 tons of grain and servicing over 200 ships. This is what helped make Gdańsk the largest harbour on the Baltic and one of Europe’s richest cities. In the final months of WWII, the island was levelled and most of the warehouses were destroyed and the damage remained untouched for 6 decades. QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna, Gdańsk. 24 SŁONY SPICHLERZ - RESTAURANT MARKET Only recently has this island been redeveloped and key granary buildings have been recreated with a new purpose. Most notably, Słony Spichlerz (p.87) (Eng: Salty Granary) is now home a ‘restaurant market’ and offers a wide choice of cuisines in the first restaurant market in Gdańsk. 25 GREEN BRIDGE Before proceeding over the Green Bridge back into Old Town, you may want to consider taking a right onto the waterfront and witnessing the rebirth of the area (or have a bite to eat) at Słony Spichlerz (#24). QC‑5

Granary Island

Photo by Patryk Kosmider

GdaĹ&#x201E;sk Old Town Walking Tour

Solidarity Solidarity

Lech Walesa is hoisted through the Lenin Shipyard following the signing of the August Accords, August 31, 1980. Stanisław Składanowski / ECS Collection

The word ‘Solidarity,’ or Solidarność as it is in Polish, is synonymous with the city of Gdańsk. Although Poland’s first free labour union was born out of the 1980 Lenin Shipyard strikes in Gdańsk, Solidarność would bloom into a nationwide social movement. Truth be told there are other cities in Poland which feel that Gdańsk has unfairly become symbolic of a movement that was bravely coordinated by Poles across the country. Nonetheless, for most foreign visitors, Solidarity is strongly associated with Gdańsk, its shipyards and the leader of the protests - Lech Wałęsa. The story of Solidarity is a more complicated one than most foreign visitors realise. Although the movement and the trade union were officially christened in 1980, their roots can be traced back some ten years earlier. Protesting against plunging living standards, workers at the Lenin Shipyards in Gdańsk and other yards in Gdynia, Elbląg and Szczecin took to the streets, with the army promptly called in to intervene. Bloody clashes led to the deaths of 44 people, and ultimately forced communist leader Władysław Gomułka out of power. Replaced by Edward Gierek, his half-mad economic policies served to create an illusion of prosperity, as well as generating a flush of jobs in Gdańsk’s Nowy Port area. But the memory of 1970 did not fade and Gdańsk remained a ticking timebomb for the authorities. As the ‘70s drew to a close, tensions started to rise again, with living standards falling and the economy in huge debt built on massive foreign loans. On August 7, 1980 the dismissal of female crane operator, Anna Walentynowicz at Gdańsk’s Lenin Shipyards provided 36

the spark for workers who were already prepared to go on strike due to disillusionment with price increases and the falling value of their salaries. Fired from the shipyard in 1976 for anti-government activities, labour activist Lech Wałęsa saw that momentum for a strike was growing quickly, and decided to famously scale the wall of the Lenin Shipyard to take control. A strike was called and the workers’ demands were met on August 16. With many strikers subsequently leaving the yard, Walentynowicz and another woman, Alina Pienkowska, are credited with convincing many - including Wałęsa - to stay on and turn the strike into more than just a demand for better working conditions. The leaders then steered their colleagues away from mere wage demands towards the idea of creating a trade union movement to represent the workers and fight injustice. Having learned from the mistakes of 1970, the workers did not confront the authorities, but instead locked themselves inside the shipyards. Three days later leaders representing workers from over 150 industrial plants, as well as members from across the social spectrum in Poland, met in the shipyards to hammer out 21 demands, including the legalisation of independent trade unions. Days of tension followed, with tanks and armed units stationed menacingly outside the gates of the shipyards. On August 31 the government backed down, agreeing to meet the 21 demands - which became known as the August Accords - thereby marking the first peaceful victory over communism. The agreement was famously signed in the shipyards by Lech Wałęsa using a large souvenir Pope John Paul II pen.

Solidarity A month later, on September 22, delegates from 36 regional unions met in Gdańsk forming a coalition under the name of Solidarity. Lech Wałęsa, the unlikely hero of August, was elected as chairman. The next few months marked a golden period for the nation; some ten million people joined the Solidarity movement, and Poland enjoyed a freedom unknown for decades.

LECH WAŁĘSA Credited as the driving force behind the Solidarity movement, as well as the man who revived a postcommunist Poland, Lech Wałęsa remains, for many, the public face of Poland, as well as Gdańsk’s most famous resident.

Riding the crest of a wave Solidarity continued to lobby for further reforms and free elections, infuriating the Kremlin. With Soviet invasion a looming threat the Polish Minister of National Defence, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declared a state of Martial Law on December 13, 1981, and tanks once again rolled through the streets. Though Solidarity was officially dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate underground. When in 1984, Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, Solidarity’s chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police over a million people attended his funeral.

Born on September 29, 1943 Wałęsa’s early life was largely anonymous. Working in his early days as a mechanic it was only in 1967 when he began work at Gdansk’s Lenin Shipyards that he began his rise to prominence. A keen trade unionist he frequently found himself in trouble with the authorities, and his political activities led to a stint in prison that ultimately cost him his job.

Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988, and the following year Solidarity was once again granted legal status. Participating in Poland’s first postcommunist election the party swept to victory, with Wałęsa leading from the front. Lech Wałęsa became the first freely elected president of Poland in December 1990 and served until 1995 when he lost the following election to Aleksander Kwasniewski, a former communist.

In 1980, with the Shipyards on strike, an unemployed Wałęsa scaled a wall, gave an impromptu speech and found himself thrust into the spotlight as the accidental hero of the protests. Having successfully led negotiations for workers’ rights it was he who signed the August Accords of 1980. Marked by the government as an undesirable influence, he was immediately placed under arrest when martial law was announced in 1981. Released a year later, Wałesa’s actions and those he represented were recognised in 1983 when he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.

In spite of overseeing Poland’s transition to a market economy, the members of Solidarity started to splinter into new political groupings and the party gradually found its power being eroded by the emergence of fresher political parties. In the 2000 elections, the party which changed history failed to even make the minimum vote required to qualify for representation in Parliament. Though its political marginalisation has been a result of the democratic process it had helped to reinstate, Solidarity is still politically active, remains PL’s largest trade union, and is internationally recognised as the catalyst that pushed the first domino in a chain of events that helped other countries in the USSR regain their independence, ultimately leading to the dissolution of the Soviet Union in late 1991. While a number of individuals lost their lives for the cause, the movement promoted nonviolence and Polish independence was achieved peacefully. Celebrating the 30th anniversary of the August Accords in 2010, US President Barack Obama stated that “Through the Solidarity movement, the people of Poland reminded us of the power each of us has to write our own destiny. In the face of tyranny and oppression, they chose freedom and democracy and, in doing so, changed their country and the course of history”. In 2019 Poland, celebrated its 30th anniversary of independence and democracy. In the national marketing campaign, the instantly-recognisable Solidarność type-set has been used everywhere, symbolic of how much of an effect the movement has had on Poland and the world.

As the figurehead of the Solidarity movement, and with the communist state crumbling, Wałęsa led roundtable talks with the government to formulate a power-sharing scheme. Partly free elections in 1989 led to blanket wins for Solidarity, signalling the last days of communism. In 1990 he became Poland’s first democratically elected, post-communist president, a position he held until 1995. Although respected and admired as an opposition leader, Walesa saw his popularity wane while in power. Many Poles began to consider his blunt, unsophisticated manner of speaking, and lack of English language skills as unbefitting a head of state. In the 1995 elections Wałęsa was beaten by Aleksander Kwasniewski, who, despite being a former Communist, was seen as a better representative abroad. Many accused Wałęsa of having failed to deliver on many of his promises, having stolen the glory of the people’s revolution for himself and even of having worked for the secret services under communism. In recent years, however, Mr. Wałęsa’s popularity has grown again, particularly among the younger generations. Since his political retirement he spends his days often lecturing abroad speaking on subjects close to his heart: democracy, civil liberty and the free market. 37

Solidarity

View of the Shipyard from the ECS; BHP Building in the foreground, Directorate behind it.

WHAT TO SEE EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE (ECS) This huge 5-storey facility just outside the entrance to the Gdańsk Shipyards was opened on August 30, 2014 - the 34th anniversary of the signing of the August Accords winning several design and culture awards. Its existence and success provided the impetus for the associated BHP Hall, Gate No. 2, Plac Solidarności and the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970 to receive the European Heritage Label, which identifies sites which ‘have played an important role in European history and culture, and relate to the idea of uniting, as well as democratic and humanistic values of timeless significance.’ As the new focal point of these sites, the stated aim of the European Solidarity Centre (Europejskie Centrum Solidarność, or ECS for short) is to ‘become the world’s centre for the ideas of freedom, democracy and solidarity to be fostered.’ The ECS is free to enter and in addition to its primary function as a museum (not free), also includes the lovely ground-floor atrium filled with trees and greenery, several conference halls, library archives and reading rooms, a gift shop, cafe, restaurant, roof-top terrace with great views of the surrounding shipyards, and the amazing Play Department (p.76), which allows you to leave your children in a massive supervised playground that features ball pits, climbing nets and obstacle courses. The permanent exhibition of the ECS occupies seven different halls over two storeys and a total floorspace of 3,000m2. Combining traditional display methods with some truly impressive state-of-the-art technology, the interactive displays offer a wealth of authentic documents and artefacts, 3D projections, photographs and film footage. The narrative it weaves is a long one, beginning with the story of Anna Walentynowicz, the widespread striking in August 1980 following over a decade of tension, and the birth of the Solidarity movement. Lech Wałęsa’s 38

emergance as Solidarity’s unlikely leader is well-covered, as is the Polish-born Pope John Paul II’s visit to his homeland, reigniting the movement, an effect leading not only PL, but all the occupied countries of the Communist Bloc down a road to freedom. In the final two sections, the triumph of democratic elections in Poland leads to the emergence of many independent European nations, as they break away from the crumbling Soviet Union. With so much to take in (including the rooftop terrace), allow yourself 2 to 3 hours to view the exhibition comfortably. Excellent audio guides are available in Polish, English, French, German, Italian, Russian, Spanish, Swedish and the local Kashubian language. There are also audio descriptions for the visually impaired and sign language and loops for the hearing impaired; the entire space is designed to be accessible to all. One of the Tricity’s most important cultural centre’s, don’t skip this one. QB‑1, Plac Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 12, www.ecs.gda.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. From October open 10:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission to the permanent exhibition 20/15zł, family ticket 55zł. Play department 9zł per child per hour. TU

Historic Gate #2

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

Solidarity

GATE #2 OF THE GDAŃSK SHIPYARD The #2 gate of the Gdańsk Shipyard is where Lech Wałęsa stood to announce to the waiting crowds the deal that had been struck with the Communist government in 1980. Listed as a historical monument, the image of the gate decked in flowers and photos of Pope John Paul II is one of the most enduring of that era, and even today you’ll still see them placed here regularly.QB‑1, ul. Doki 1, Gdańsk. MONUMENT TO THE FALLEN SHIPYARD WORKERS OF 1970 Lying right outside Gate no. 2, this monument was unveiled in 1980 to commemorate the events of 1970 when 45 people died during street riots protesting the communist regime. Along with wage demands and the right to form free trade unions, the right to erect this memorial was one of Solidarity’s main demands during the 1980 lock-in. The 42-metre, 139-tonne steel sculpture stands on the spot where the first three victims of the 1970 riots were killed - a cross for each victim, each with an anchor at the top, while at the bottom their struggling comrades are depicted. A poignant inscription by Czesław Miłosz reads, ‘You who have harmed simple man, mocking him with your laughter, you kill him, someone else will be born, and your deeds and words will be written down.’ Solidarity leader Lech Wałęsa had his own poetic moment with the monument, referring to it as “a harpoon driven through the body of a whale. No matter how hard the whale struggles, it can never get rid of it.”QB‑1, Pl. Solidarności, Gdańsk.

BHP BUILDING Just metres from the ECS, the historic BHP Hall is where the meetings during the August 1980 strikes took place, and where the landmark August Accords were actually signed. The hall houses a small exhibition entitled ‘Shipyard Solidarity’ which shows images from the period when the movement was at the height of its power, as well as Communist era signs and Solidarity flags and banners. There is also a recreation of the long table where Government representatives and Solidarity leaders led by Lech Wałęsa signed the historic agreement. Today the hall is again used for discussions and conferences set against this historic backdrop.QC‑1, ul. ks. Jerzego Popiełuszki 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 308 42 24, www.salabhp.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission free. SHIPYARD DIRECTORATE Just across the road from the BHP Building, you might recognise this large red-brick building in the background of Stanisław Składanowski’s famous photo of Wałęsa being carried shoulder-high by burly colleagues after successfully negotiating the August Accords. Housing the shipyard directors’ offices in both the pre- and post-war periods, today it’s home to the temporary offices of the European Solidarity Centre as well as those of BPTO, the developer of Young City Gdańsk. Although difficult to make out now, the area in front of the building was the shipyard parade ground where public meetings were held and crowds here have been addressed by figures as diverse as Lech Wałęsa and Nazi leader Albert Forster.Qul. Doki 1, Gdańsk. 39

WWII in Gdańsk

German troops storming the Westerplatte Peninsula on September 1st, 1939. | Bundesarchiv, Bild 183-E10718 : Haine : CC-BY-SA 3.0

Unbeknownst to a European continent still healing its wounds in the two short decades since World War I, the unavoidable and terrifyingly quick successor to what had been idealistically referred to as the ‘War to End All Wars’ would prove to be even more devastating and destructive; and a more lasting tragedy. World War II was the most global, and the most deadly conflict in human history. And it began right here in Danzig/Gdańsk.

PRELUDE The city had long been caught in a tug-of-war between Germany and Poland, and the decision by the League of Nations to make it a Free City State following World War I left neither side happy. Though the two communities continued to live together as they had for centuries, the Germans now controlled the State senate, the police and much of the business, while the Poles dominated the railways, port authority and had their own postal service. After the election of Hitler in neighbouring Germany, bitter rivalries came to the surface, anti-Polish sentiment spread rapidly, and by 1935 the local police force had started keeping tabs on any Pole seen as a threat to German interests. The rise in tensions wasn’t a shock to Poles. In 1925 the League of Nations had bowed to pressure and consented to the deployment of a token 88-man Polish force across the water from the Free City on the Polish-controlled Westerplatte Peninsula. As Hitler’s posturing became ever more threatening, the Poles continued to covertly strengthen their foothold, smuggling in military hardware and secretly building fortifications in breach of League of Nations decrees. 40

OUTBREAK On August 31, 1939, Nazi units dressed in Polish uniform infamously staged a mock attack on a radio tower in the German border town of Gleiwitz (now Gliwice). Photos of the charade were flashed across the world, with Hitler claiming a provocative attack by the Polish army. The following dawn, Germany launched a strike on Westerplatte (p.43), an attack that would ultimately kick off World War II. Popular theory asserts the first shots of the war were fired from the German warship the SMS Schleswig Holstein, supposedly visiting Gdańsk on a goodwill mission. Wrong. Logbooks recovered by the Nowy Port Lighthouse across the water from Westerplatte prove beyond doubt that the German battleship was pre-empted by a matter of three minutes by a Nazi gun emplacement halfway up the lighthouse. Shocked, but ready, the Poles scored a direct hit on the lighthouse, thus in all likelihood making the German lighthouse gunners the first casualties in a war that would go on to claim 55 million lives. The German shelling of Westerplatte was simultaneously supported by infantry attacks on the Westerplatte gateway, with the Polish defenders repelling repeated advances by the navy storm troopers. At precisely the same time, another equally ferocious battle was being waged at the small post office (p.43)in the city’s then-named Hevelius Square. Detachments of German police and SS laid siege to the 50 Polish post workers inside, who put up a brave struggle for over 17 hours until casualties became intolerable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with flamethrowers.

WWII in Gdańsk SIEGE Yet while the post office capitulated, the garrison at Westerplatte held on. The plan was simple: in the event of an attack in Gdańsk, the Polish navy - stationed in nearby Gdynia (Poland) - would sail in to help, aircraft from Puck would be scrambled, and the bridge in Tczew would be blown to stop a German advance into what was the demilitarized zone of the Free State. As it transpired, nearly everything that could go wrong, did. The navy was caught out in the Bay of Gdańsk, while the air force was destroyed while still on the ground. Polish customs officers did succeed in blowing the bridge at Tczew, crucially slowing the German advance whose armour was gathered over in Szymankowo; they paid for their bravery with their lives.

and even pursue compensation and restitution for any property originally seized. Benign by some benchmarks, Forster was a model Nazi on others. Jews faced merciless persecution, Stutthof emerged as a true place of terror and he is personally thought to have given the order for the murder of over 2,000 Poles executed between 1939 and 1940. Eventually caught on the Hel Peninsula while trying to flee westwards, even his death remains a mystery - some claim he was hung in Biskupia Góra after the war, while others insist it was his body double who faced the hangman. Yet more sources claim he was taken to Warsaw’s Mokotów Prison and beaten to death. The truth, it appears, will never be known.

FINALE

Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 3rd, but hopes of outside help being directed to Poland proved ill-founded. On the morning of September 7, Major Henryk Sucharski took the decision to raise the white flag. Gdynia surrendered two weeks later, and then Hel - the final Polish stronghold in Pomerania fell on the 2nd of October, by which time Poland had been invaded from the east by the Soviet Union. Ironically, Hel, the final stand for the Poles, would also be the last place the Nazis would relinquish in 1945.

For ordinary Danzigers the quality of life remained relatively good for much of the war. Zoppot/Sopot was a favourite stomping ground for soldiers on R&R, and in spite of rationing and occasional shortages, life didn’t get worse until the closing stages. The first signs that all was not well came with Allied air raids on the shipyards - home to munitions factories producing U-Boats and V1 and V2 rockets - and the Zaspa Airfield. The war still seemed far off, even in 1943 when work commenced on whisking cultural treasures to locations west.

UNDER THE REICH

By 1944 a different picture had emerged; Danzig had become a major transit point for swarms of refugees fleeing from the east, as well as a regular target for bombing raids. By March 1945, with the Red Army fast approaching, the population had reached 1.5 million and the city stood on the precipice of chaos. Suspected deserters were strung up from the lampposts and trees of al. Zwyciestwa (or Hindenburg Allee as it was then known), and the city descended into a Dantean vision. Historian Antony Beevor writes of the ensuing siege: ‘Fighter bombers strafed the towns and port areas. Soviet Shturmoviks treated civilian and military targets alike. A church was as good as a bunker, especially when it seemed as if the objective was to flatten every building which still protruded conspicuously above the ground... Tens of thousands of women and children, terrified of losing their places in the queues to escape, provided unmissable targets.’

Hitler had always made much of incorporating Danzig into the Reich, yet somewhat surprisingly he only made two visits to the city - a deep-held suspicion of Danzigers, and a fear of assassination explaining such apathy. The second of these visits came on September 18, 1939, with an exultant Fuhrer arriving to Sopot via his armoured train, and checking into the Kasino Hotel (today the Sofitel Grand, see p.60). His stay lasted a week, during which time he received a delegation from Japan, visited the Schleswig-Holstein, Westerplatte and inspected a parade outside Dwór Artus on Gdańsk’s Dlugi Targ. By this time fervent Nazis were already clamouring to rid the region of all traces of Polonization. The Intelligentsia and other political targets were arrested and incarcerated in numerous camps and prisons, including the Victoriaschule (ul. Kładki 1. B-5), which was used as a interview and processing centre, the city jail (now replaced by a newer model) and Stutthof - later to morph into a notorious concentration camp. Flags, signs and anything else remotely Polish was destroyed. Governor and Gauleiter of the region was Albert Forster, and his reign still arouses controversy and debate among both scholars and survivors. Unlike other Gauleiters in annexed and occupied territories, Forster followed a program of assimilation, granting thousands of locals German citizenship if they swore German heritage. Even more remarkably, those Poles rounded up and persecuted in the first wave of arrests could seek German citizenship,

Danzig had been designated a closed fortress, or Festung, and the defence proved bitter and bloody. Zoppot/ Sopot fell on March 23, Gotenhafen/Gdynia on March 28, and both faced the full wrath of an avenging army, spurring the defenders of Danzig to fight even harder to grant the remaining civilians the chance of evacuation. Encircled and out-powered, even when the opportunity to surrender was offered the Germans continued fighting; that fires were burning a month after Danzig was captured is testament to the ferocity of the siege. Polish and Red Army troops finally entered the city on March 30; Gdańsk, scene of the first shots of the war, now lay ablaze in rape and ruin. 41

WWII in Gdańsk

WHAT TO SEE WORLD WAR II MUSEUM As World War II officially began with the simultaneous German attacks on the Westerplatte Peninsula and the Polish Post Office in Gdańsk, it’s fitting that this superlative museum dedicated to WWII should be built just nearby the latter. Opened in 2017, this is Gdańsk’s top museum, and as such, you need to plan your visit. Entrances are timed and tickets should be bought in advance from their website. Those interested in the topic can easily spend a whole day there, and we recommend you don’t allot yourself anything less than 3 hours. Our other advice is to spend the extra 5zł for the excellent multilingual audioguide, which senses where you are and tells you what you are looking at. The heart of the museum is the permanent exhibition which is split into three parts – The Road to War, The War’s Long Shadow and The Horrors of War. Within these three areas there are a total of 18 rooms or thematic sections covering different aspects of how World War II came about and developed and the suffering it caused. While the numerous films, photographs and excellent translations mark this museum as one of the best we’ve ever visited, it is the collection of artefacts, many of them personal effects donated by private individuals, that really bring the personal tragedies of World War II to life. 42

While the museum takes a broad international scope, it also trains its lens locally of course, and the story of what happened to Poland and her people during and as a result of the war will no doubt leave an indelible mark on all visitors. There are so many of aspects of the museum to recommend that we’ve dedicated a separate feature to it, but to summarise, we feel this exhibit is so excellent that it alone justifies a journey to Gdańsk. Make the time, get your tickets and don’t miss this.QD‑2, Pl. Władysława Bartoszewskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 75 20, www.muzeum1939.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 23/16zł, family ticket 55zł (2 adults and up to 3 children). Tue free.

Iconic angles of the World War II Museum

WWII in Gdańsk POLISH POST OFFICE MUSEUM During the interwar era of the Free City of Danzig, the autonomous city state had two post offices - one municipal, and one run by the Polish government. As an extraterritorial property of PL, the Polish Post Office was a bit like an embassy, and surreptitiously served as the centre of the Polish government’s intelligence gathering services in the demilitarised zone of predominantly German Gdańsk. As hostilities between the two countries intensified, the Poles began to stock arms inside the building and train its employees to become a sort of civilian military unit if attacked. Monument to the Defenders of the Polish Post Office

WESTERPLATTE A large protective peninsula shielding Gdańsk’s Nowy Port to its south, Westerplatte first sprang to fame as a health resort in the mid-19th century, before achieving infamy as the military zone where the opening shots of WWII were exchanged.

Polish Post Office Museum

That moment infamously came on September 1st, 1939, as the Nazi Battleship the Schleswig-Holstein shelled Westerplatte, and the SS simultaneously laid siege to this large brick building in the northern part of the Old Town, inside which 50-some heavily armed postal workers hunkered down. After a brave 17-hour struggle, the details of which are gory indeed, those that were still alive surrendered. After their capture, the 38 survivors were tortured and eventually executed by firing squad on October 5th. A truly impressive stainless steel monument outside the Post Office honours their sacrifice, which has become one of the most romanticised tales of heroism in Polish history. After its nearly total destruction, the Polish Post Office in Gdańsk was rebuilt after the war, and is today not only a functioning post office, but also a small, compelling museum dedicated to the events of September 1, 1939, as well as local postal history from the 18th century to the outbreak of WWII. If you can’t get into the WWII Museum, this is a worthwhile, if much less ambitious back-up option.QC‑3, ul. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Tue 10:00-13:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Tue free. Y

After WWI, Poland was awarded Westerplatte as a location for bringing in military equipment and ammunition from abroad (Polish Military Transit Depot). Inaugurated in November 1925, over the next 14 years Westerplatte grew from a depot with an 88-man detail into a huge fort defended by 200 Polish soldiers, Hitler considered Westerplatte so strategically important that his invasion of Poland effectively started here. The ensuing battle - in which 200 Polish troops held out for seven days under heavy bombardment by air, sea and 3,500 ground troops before surrendering (with only 15 casualties) - may have ultimately had little strategic importance in the greater scheme of the war, but it is still a source of immense national pride for Poles. Today, Westerplatte is essentially a historical park and memorial site featuring a scattering of shelled bunkers, burnt-out ruins, an enormous communist era monument, snack bars, souvenir stalls and a small seasonal museum in Guardhouse Number 1 (closed from October til April). There is also a permanent outdoor exhibit entitled ‘Westerplatte: Spa-Bastion-Symbol.’ To get to Westerplatte on public transport from the main train station in Gdańsk, catch bus 106 from outside of Gdańsk Główny. Qul. Sucharskiego, Gdańsk.

WWII Trips & Tours http://bit.ly/GdanskWW2Tours Statue to the Defenders of Westerplatte

Gdańsk GdańskWrzeszcz Wrzeszcz

View of the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (p.46) from ul. Wajdeloty (p.48)

Found 4km north of Gdańsk’s Old Town, straight along al. Zwycięstwa (H-6), you’ll find the heart of Wrzeszcz. After decades of neglect, Wrzeszcz is truly on the up and is these days far more of a commercial hub than the centre of Gdańsk itself. While nowhere near as picturesque as the Old Town (p.26), the area is not without points of interest. Impossible to escape in this area are the students - it’s their youthful presence that can be thanked for the growing number of cafes, bars and restaurants (p.48-50) This is an area worth exploring if you feel like getting away from the madding crowds of the historic centre. The first thing that stands out about Wrzeszcz (pronounced v-zeh-sh-ch) is the name – surely a word with that many ‘z’s and so few vowels can’t be spelt correctly? Granted, it was easier to pronounce when it was known by the German Langfuhr, but the name actually comes from the Polish word ‘wrzos’ meaning heather. First written mention of the area dates to 1261 when a settlement known as Vrieszt was to be found here. In 1412 the district was awarded to Gerd von der Beke, an ally of the Teutonic Knights, before moving into the hands of the Bischof family in the second half of the 16th century. By the 17th century local tycoon Zachariasz Zappio acquired much of the property between what is today ul. Do Studzienki (H-4) and ul. Słowackiego, building a palace that proved grand enough for Polish king Jan III Sobieski to stay in back in 1677. It’s for this reason you’ll find nearby streets with regal connotations (Dolina Królewska - Royal Valley, and Królewski Potok - Royal Brook). You won’t find remains of the residence, though one legacy that survives is the 44

profusion of linden trees. It was the Bürgermeister Daniel Gralath who can claim credit, having commissioned the planting of four lanes of trees over a 2km stretch flanking what was then Grosse Allee (Great Avenue), today’s Al. Zwycięstwa. The 18th century saw intense construction, predominantly two storey manor houses complete with rooftop gardens touting footbridges, ponds and exotic plants. In 1872, a tramline connecting the district to Gdańsk was added, while the early 20th century saw the construction of the Technische Hochschule (today Gdańsk Polytechnic (p.47) and the municipal hospital (now the medical academy). During the Free City of Danzig days, Wrzeszcz’s population soared to 40,000 and continued to serve as a home to the middle-classes, as well as a unit of the Prussian ‘Hussars of Death’. It was during this period that Nobel-prize winning writer Günter Grass (p.46) was born here. His work was often based on the Langfuhr and Danzig of his childhood and his most famous work, The Tin Drum, is set in the district around the time he was growing up. While central Gdańsk was flattened by the end of the war, Wrzeszcz escaped lightly. The post-war years, however, saw Wrzeszcz gradually slip into obscurity, its once grand houses left to rot. While you’ll still see older buildings in need of some love and attention, many of them, and the older streets, such as ul. Wajdeloty (p.48), are being returned to their former glories thanks to public investment and the arrival of a younger, professional class attracted by the district’s increasingly trendy reputation.

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Gdańsk Wrzeszcz GÜNTER GRASS

WHAT TO SEE IN WRZESZCZ Modern day Wrzeszcz is effectively split into two by the main Gdańsk-Gdynia railtrack and road. To the south you have old Wrzeszcz, birthplace of Günter Grass and now an upcoming residential district with some cool bars and eateries. We’d recommend starting your visit by following in the footsteps of Günter Grass, which will give you the opportunity to see some of the old streets and get a sense of the pre-war Langfuhr. One key point of interest, not just for fans of the author, is the Sacred Heart of Jesus Church, while staying with the religious theme there’s also the New Synagogue, one of the few remaining signs of Jewish history in the city. There is also Kuźnicki Park (F-3), which has beneftited greatly from the area’s transformation.

Often cited as ‘Germany’s collective conscience’ and commonly regarded as one of the country’s greatest poets, novelists and playwrights, Nobel Prize winner Günter Grass was born in the Free City of Danzig in 1927 to a German grocer, Wilhelm Grass and a Kashubian mother Helena Knoff, in the hospital now known as Kliniczna. Grass’ background was not uncommon in a city where Germans, Poles and local Kashubs regularly inter-married and his own story can be viewed as a pocket history of the city in the first half of the 20th century. The mix of cultures in which Grass grew up is also a theme that regularly appears in his work and is particularly evident in Grass’ ‘The Tin Drum’ where the main character Oskar has a Kashubian mother, and two presumptive fathers - the German Alfred Matzerath, his mother’s husband and the Pole Jan Bronski, his mother’s lover. Because Grass uses real places set against an historical background in his fictionalised work, he creates a window into the Danzig of the 1930s and 1940s and the lives of those who lived here. Many of the locations where the action is set in his novels are real places where Grass spent time during this period, with many surviving the devastation suffered by Gdańsk/Danzig during World War II; it is possible to walk the streets of Grass’ childhood and realise the setting of his stories. The best place to start is his parents’ home close to the Wrzeszcz railway station and bus terminus. The row of buildings on ul. Lendziona 5a (F-3, German - Kastanienweg) look much like they did when Grass was born; you’ll see the entrance to the courtyard where the Grasses lived. Although his father was an Evangelical Protestant, GünterGrass was christened a Catholic like his mother in the nearby Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on ul. ks. Józefa Zator Przytockiego 3 (Schwarzerweg). His parents moved to the nearby ul. Joachima Lelewela (Labesweg), where his father, a grocer, also had a shop. A monument to the author can be found at Plac Wybickiego (E-4). 46

To the north you have the Galeria Baltycka shopping mall (p.131) with its comprehensive range of big-name stores. Just down the road is ul. Wajdeloty (p.48), a charming street with 19th-century architecture and cobblestone surfaces that has recently been restored and turned into something of a gastronomic quarter. The crowning glory of Wrzeszcz, however, is the revamped former early 20th century garrison buildings, which belonged to the German Leibhusaren Brigade (Hussars). Today, it is aptly called ‘Garnizon’ (p.49), consisting of modernised brick buildings now used for cafes, bars, restaurants and concert venues, making this a fairly lively part of the area. The flow of students around Wrzeszcz is fairly steady, therefore, for cut-price alcoholic adventures, we suggest readers hit one of the student clubs situated on the end of ul. Do Studzienki. CHURCH OF THE SACRED HEART OF JESUS Built following a petition raised by the residents of DanzigLangfuhr (Gdańsk Wrzeszcz) requesting the building of a Catholic church in the area. The church consecrated in April 1911. and was designed as a basilica with a rib-like structure over the naves and with a steeple reaching 66 metres. Alas, within years all the original metal elements – bells and all - were commandeered by the military to produce things that go boom, and the church fared no better in the following war when it was smashed to bits by the advancing Soviets, which resulted in many of its records being destroyed (a problem for those searching for their roots in the neighbourhood). It has a rich, if tragic, ecclesiastical history; two consecutive parish priests from the 1920’s (Franciszek Rogaczewski and Bronisław Komorowski) perished in Stutthof Labour Camp and were later beatified, and the church also had the honour of being visited by Cardinal Wojtyła – you’ll know him better as Pope John Paul II! Günter Grass pilgrims headed to Wrzeszcz will be most interested to know that from 1906, for nearly forty years, the parish priest was Father Walter Wienke, who was the priest who christened the author. QF‑4, ul. ks. Józefa Zator Przytockiego 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 01 41, www.nsjwrzeszcz.pl. Open 06:00-08:30, 18:30-20:00; Sun 06:30-14:00, 18:30-20:00.

Gdańsk Wrzeszcz NEW SYNAGOGUE Built in 1927 by the Berlin architects Imberg and Friedman and opened formally with the bringing in of the Torah on September 25 of the same year, Gdańsk’s New Synagogue in the district of Wrzeszcz, was primarily used by Jewish refugees from Russia and Wielkopolska, but also served a small number of Gdańsk Jews as well. Damaged by the Nazis on ‘Kristallnacht’ (November 1938), the Jewish community sold the property to the city of Danzig in a bid to stave off further destruction. Although it was promptly turned into a furniture warehouse, the ploy did save the building from the fiery fate suffered by most of the region’s synagogues. Amazingly the Torah scrolls survived the war and it was handed back to Gdańsk’s surviving Jewish population following the war. Today, it serves as a base for the Jewish Community and along with a small prayer room, there is a small but fascinating free exhibition dedicated to the history of Jews in 20th century Gdansk/Danzig. Services are always at 9:30, however you must call before hand if you wish to participate. Don’t be surprised if you have to bang hard on the door and ask to be let in, even during the official opening hours we list.QG‑3, ul. Partyzantów 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 344 06 02, www.gdansk.jewish. org.pl. Open 10:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. GDAŃSK UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY This impressive building was built as a technical university (Technische Hochschule) by the Germans between 1900 and 1904 as Danzig was an important port city which required trained technicians plus it was also considered the perfect place to educate local Danzigers in a German atmosphere and to create a bastion of ‘Germaness’ in the east. The 200,000 m3 development was opened in the presence of Kaiser Wilhelm II on the 6th of October 1904 and its official title was Königliche Preussische Technische Hochschule (Royal Prussian Technical University).

The magnificent main building of the Gdańsk University of Technology

GETTING THERE Getting to Wrzeszcz is very straightforward. It is 4km north along the main Gdańsk – Sopot – Gdynia road (known at the Gdańsk end as Al. Zwycięstwa). Those without a car or bicycle can take the local SKM commuter train from the main Gdańsk Główny Train Station. ‘Gdańsk – Wrzeszcz’ is the third stop. The most enjoyable way to get there, for us at least, is to ride trams no. 6, 9 or 12 from outside the main train station at stop ‘Dworzec Główny’. By doing so you get to travel up the beautiful linden-lined Al. Zwycięstwa where you can catch a peak of a few lesser sights such as the first Russian tank to enter the Tri-city in 1945 and the magnificent Gdańsk Technical Museum. If you get off at the ‘Galeria Bałtycka’ stop, you will be in the middle of modern Wrzeszcz.

BAŁTYCKAAUTUMN IT’S TIME FOR NEW COLLECTIONS!

AL. GRUNWALDZKA 141

GDAŃSK

Gdańsk Wrzeszcz UL. WAJDELOTY

Most visitors passing through Wrzeszcz will associate the area with either a dishevelled bus hub or the imposing Galeria Bałtycka shopping centre as they pass through by train. However, those who are fortunate enough to exit on the northern of the SKM station catch a glimpse of a mural and the pleasant landscaping of Park Kuźnicki. It is here that marks the entry to the oldest remaining street in Wrzeszcz - ulica Wajdeloty (F-4, formerly Marienstrasse). Indeed, there is no other street in the district that has the same character and atmosphere, with its late 19th-century tenements and even a manor house at number 13, Dwór Kuźnicki, dating back to the mid 18th century. For many years, the district of Wrzeszcz remained rather rundown with families having to live in poor conditions with shared toilet facilities. In fact, for this reason, famed novelist and Wrzeszcz resident Günter Grass (p.46) objected to a statue of himself being commissioned in the area and an older, already-existing monument to him then spent many years under dust sheets! In many ways, so too did Ulica Wajdeloty and it remained somewhat of an embarrassment to locals for decades. It wasn’t until 2013 when the street began it’s period of revitalisation, which included the introduction of traffic-calming measures, the renovation of the old buildings a curious effort to relay areas of cobblestone to return the street to its pre-20th-century look. As with most areas that start to gentrify, cafés began sprouting as did bars and restaurants, which has increased its popularity amongst the younger crowd in Gdańsk. It has now become one of the more fashionable streets in Tri-city. The area around the roundabout, marking the bottom end of the street, is the hub of this transformation and it resembles a mini version of Plac Zbawiciela in Warsaw.QF‑4, ul. Wajdeloty, Gdańsk.

In 1945 it was turned into a field hospital of 3,000 beds and despite surviving most of the war unscathed, was severely damaged by the Red Army on their arrival when 60% of the buildings were destroyed including a valuable collection of books in the library.QH‑5, ul. Narutowicza 11/12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 347 11 00, www.pg.edu.pl. SZUBIENICZNA GÓRA (GALLOWS HILL) The hill directly behind the Gdańsk University of Technology is rather ominously named, the English translation being ‘Gallows Hill’, giving a big clue away to its former use - this was once the site of public executions. Between 15291804, a large gallows stood firmly on a large square stone and brick base, on top of the 55m high hill, clearly visible for miles around, especially to those approaching the city from the west. The gallows, from which the hill got its name, acted as a warning that justice would be quickly served to anyone that did any wrong! The last execution took place on the hill in 1838, though this time without the handy help of the gallows, but with an axe, yikes! From 19141966, the site was used as a non-denominational cemetery, along with a nearby crematorium (the 1st in Poland), which functioned until 1945. Today, the area is now a park (Park im. Traugutta), named after the leader of the January Uprising, Romuald Traugutt, with a viewing platform, from where you can see the area of Wrzeszcz below. Walking through the park can be a little eerie as old gravestones still litter the site.QSzubieniczna Góra. ANNA WALENTYNOWICZ MONUMENT This monument to the Solidarity (p.44) activist whose dismissal from the Lenin Shipyards on August 8, 1980 sparked the August strikes was conceived by the Godność (Dignity) organisation, designed by Stanisław Milewski and largely paid for by Solidarity trade union members. It stands in a small square named in Walentynowicz’s honour next to the block of flats where she lived in later life. The inscription on its base is a famous line used during the fight against communism: ‘There is no freedom without solidarity’.QG‑4, Skwer Anny Walentynowicz.

EAT AND DRINK While Wrzeszcz isn’t overly abundant in historic landmarks like the millennia-old centre (p.26), the area’s redevelopment in recent years has given opportunities to a number of younger gastronomic businesses as well as drinking establishments with a youthful entrepreneurial spirit. Two areas in particular, ul. Wajdeloty and Garnizon were purposefully revitalised with these industries in mind. Since the sometimesoverbearing tourist centre is unlikely to shift anytime soon, Gdańsk Wrzeszcz is an ideal place to take a stroll, enjoy a bite to eat before changing places for a coffee or a beer.

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Gdańsk Wrzeszcz AVOCADO A highly-recommended vegan restaurant on ul Wajdeloty, which serves up dishes which are not only healthy and wholesome but also look and taste great. You literally cannot go wrong with any choice from the menu. Our burgers, salads and cakes were all delicious and would nearly make us go vegan full-time, if it wasn’t our job to check out restaurants which serve meat and dairy as well! If you’re in need of vegan products in general, Avocado has also expanded its venture by opening a mini supermarket just a couple of doors down.QF‑4, ul. Wajdeloty 25/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 534 50 36 66, www.avocado.info.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. €. TU6 ELIKSIR This is visually very impressive, set as it is in the re-modelled 19th-century building, which formerly housed the Garrison Commandant, and there’s clearly been a lot of thought put into the concept. The menu encourages you to ‘pair’ food and drink and colour coding gives you suggestions while a degustation menu gives you the opportunity to try a set number of dishes and cocktails for a fixed price - a 5-course tasting menu will cost you 99zł. Speaking of drinks, there are 20 wines in stock and even a menu of 16 different types of champagne. However, the strongest suite in Eliksir is the cocktail bar. There are 300 types of alcohol in stock and a tonne of mixers, with the math working out to thousands of possibilities! We were particularly fans of a cocktail series dedicated to various place names in Tri-city. While we found the food tasty enough, it all took a while and arrived on the chilly side. A night bending the credit card on the cocktails while listening to the live jazz music (Fridays and Saturdays only) seems to be the recommendation here. QE‑1, ul. Hemara 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 570 19 19 10, www.eliksir.pl. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-24:00; Sat 14:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. €€€. TE FUKAFE There are many great options for coffee, cake and even a beer on ul. Wajdeloty. However, we and many other people tend to rave the loudest about all the wonderful things that Fukafe produces. They pride themselves on being a vegan confectionary café and every day there are at least 8 cakes on the menu, which will regularly include gluten-free and

GARNIZON REBORN

In another example of the continuing revitalization of the Gdańsk district of Wrzeszcz, what for many years was a closed military zone has been redeveloped for public use. The Garnizon (Garrison) district, close to the main road between the airport and the city, is gradually being turned into a residential and entertainment district. The area was originally developed at the beginning of the 20th century as a home for the German Leibhusaren Brigade (Hussar Brigade), which included the 2nd Hussar Regiment Queen Victoria of Prussia, notable for being named in honour of the daughter of Britain’s Queen Victoria, wife of German Kaiser Friedrich III and whose emblem was the skull and crossbones which gained them the popular name of the ‘Death’s Head Hussars’. Home at one stage to nearly 2,000 men, the garrison was taken over by the Free City of Danzig police force following Germany’s defeat in WWI and then in turn by the Polish army following WWII (Hochstrieß is now Al. Żołnierzy Wyklętych). The area had fallen into decline and disuse until the recent investments, which have seen 10 of the old red brick buildings modernised and turned over to new uses such as cafes, bars, restaurants, a concert venue (Stary Maneż), offices, apartments and a hotel; a cinema and theatre are in development. This blend of the old and modern has proven appealing, and the developers have delivered on their promise to breathe new life into the long empty and derelict area. Absolutely worth checking out, all of the Eat & Drink venues we list at right are located in Garnizon, such that you’ll have a hard time choosing just one. In addition to their Vrest brewery, Stary Maneż is primarily a premier music venue attracting big names to its stage - so check their website to see what’s on. Stary Maneż isn’t even the only brewery in Garnizon - also check out Browar Spółdzielczy (E-1, Al. Grunwaldzka 190), which features 20 taps pouring craft beer. E/F-1, Gdańsk.

Fukafe

Gdańsk Wrzeszcz sugar-free options. Whether it’s Tiramisu, Bajaderka (Polish cake balls with a liqueur marinade), chocolate cake or something else traditionally made from dairy ingredients, you will be blown away at how well they can resourcefully replicate some of these classics (if not making them even more delicious)! The decor and atmosphere inside can be summed up in two words - cosy and colourful. The pleasant irony of a vegan cake shop with a toy hunting trophy on the wall is not lost on most of the patrons! As for coffee, you are certainly dealing with some of the most serious baristas in Tri-city. Aside the espresso standards, Fukafe also prepare coffee by those fancy new alternative methods like drip, chemex, aeropress and so forth. They also stock craft beer and wine so, quite frankly you’re spoilt for choice. Make sure you drop in when you’re visiting Wrzeszcz!Qul. Wajdeloty 22, Gdańsk, tel. +48 537 16 93 21. Open 11:00-21:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; closed Mon. T6

PING PONG

PING PONG Another reason to stop by the Garnizon development is this cool Asian venue which offers a selection of wellprepared and tasty Far Eastern favourites such as Ramen, Bao (Chinese style filled rolls) and Pad Thai. The menu is a single sheet of A5 which you use as an order form using the pencil provided and acts as a nice gimmick. The real reason for visiting though is the food which is tasty and very handily priced and washed down with a choice of beer from Vietnam or Kashubia. The industrial look suggests it’s hip but that it was filled with three large family groups on our last visit and they, like us, seemed to be enjoying the work of the Chinese chef a lot.QF‑1, ul. Słowackiego 21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 607 60 92 05. Open 11:00-22:00. €€. TB6 POBITE GARY There are certain things which get the alarm bells ringing whenever we visit a new place yet while Pobite Gary checked off three of these, we were pretty impressed by the time we left. Another restaurant located on the Garnizon development, this is a perfect place for a decent feed in relaxed surroundings IF you find yourself in this part of town. The menu is extensive with a huge choice of easily imaginable dishes such as burgers, pizzas, fish, grilled meats, steaks and sandwiches. With seating for approx. 80 people 50

we’d be worried if they were full but we’ve thoroughly enjoyed our visits here and with a good breakfast menu, a choice of locally brewed beers and a tasty kids’ menu and range of snacks, it earns a recommendation at any time of the day. The name incidentally, literally meaning ‘beaten pans’ is what kids yell when to end a game of hide & seek when someone can’t be found.QF‑1, ul. Słowackiego 21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 733 09 96 33, www.pobitegary.net. Open 10:00-22:00. €€€. TU6 TUTAM NEW Centred around their pride-and-joy, a fantastic, whitemosaïc, woodfire pizza oven, Tutam is by far the best pizzeria in Wrzeszcz. Each pizza is a prepared with that ideal rustic base - thin with a puffy-raised crust. Furthermore, they are not too oily and incredibly flavoursome! It goes to show that you don’t need to go to Sopot to get a great pizza! As for the toppings, you will find all the classics but we’re most impressed with their two non-standards: ‘Orzech i Gruszka’ (walnuts, pear and gorgonzola cheese) and ‘Carciofi’ (ham, mascarpone and artichokes). Keep an eye out for their ‘dish of the day’, where a menu item or something from left-of-field will be available for 13zł. QDmowskiego 15, Gdańsk, tel. + 48 601 74 75 32. Open 09:00-24:00. U6T SZTUKA WYBORU Translating as ‘The Art of Choice’ in English, Sztuka Wyboru is more than just a great café - it’s a cultural institution! Found in the main building at the heart of the Garnizon development, there’s a trendy vibe to the place which as well as offering coffee, light meals and a bar is also home to a bookstore (including Englishlanguage literature), design outlet and art gallery and the growing number of young professional Poles love it. We particularly like this spot on warmer days when you can sit outside on one of the deckchairs next to the pond, however inside is just as cozy and the glass walls help to keep the place nice and bright.QF‑1, ul. J. Słowackiego 19, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 531 24 36 85, www.sztukawyboru.eu. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00. TU6 STARY MANEŻ BROWAR VREST While your main reason for visiting Stary Maneż in the Garnizon complex (p.49) will be to see a performance in the main hall, it doesn’t have to be the only excuse. The bar/restaurant on the ground floor offers an eclectic menu of snacks as well as a concise choice of starters, salads and mains, including ribs, chilli con carne and seafood curry. They also have their own beer called Vrest, which they brew onsite using German hops. The light and dark are both pretty good by own-brew standards and pair up well with the tapas to provide some sustenance before and after a concert next door. Those of you who aren’t feeling too dusty after a night out may also consider breakfast from 9:00 till 12:00.QF‑1, ul. J. Słowackiego 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 760 70 10, www.starymanez.pl. Open 09:0024:00. E6

Gdańsk Oliwa

The Abbot’s Palace in Oliwa Park (p.55). | Photo by BokehPhotos.pl

Head north a further 4km from Wrzeszcz (3 stops on the SKM train) and you’ll come to the peaceful, picturesque Gdańsk suburb of Oliwa. Known primarily for its parks, green spaces and tranquil contrast to the increasing tourist congestion of the centres of Sopot and Gdańsk, Oliwa’s handsome streets and historical buildings are also gradually being cleaned up and renovated, making it an increasingly attractive place to live, visit and relax, away from the crowds. Beginning as a small Slavic-Pomeranian settlement, the district grew around a Cistercian monastery, which was established in the latter half of the 12th century. After a long period as a religious centre and a few catastrophes along the way, including substantial devastation caused by the

GETTING TO OLIWA Some 11km north of the centre of Gdańsk, and less than 4km south from Sopot, the easiest way to get to Oliwa is to take the SKM commuter train; from Gdańsk, Oliwa is the 6th stop (14mins; 4.20zł); from Sopot the 3rd stop (6mins; 3.20zł). Buy a ticket from a machine at the station and make sure you stamp it in the yellow box on the platform before boarding. Driving to Oliwa from Gdańsk is a straight shot up road 468, and takes the same amount of time as the train, or longer. A taxi costs about 35zł from Gdańsk’s Old Town, 25-30zł from Sopot, but honestly from Sopot you could ride a bike and get there in 15mins if you’re so inclined. 52

Swedes in 1626 and again in 1656, Oliwa settled down to a peaceful and prosperous life, becoming an independent city in 1874, before being incorporated into what was then the city of Danzig in 1926. Escaping major damage during WWII, today Oliwa is home to around 20,000 people and has a number of points of interest, plus plenty of quality cafes and restaurants.

WHAT TO SEE & DO The primary highlight of any trip to Oliwa is the Cathedral (p.54), which originally dates to the 12th century and plays host to some marvellous organ recitals. It’s also a lovely walk from the train station to the Cathedral, the majority of which is through the beautiful intervening garden landscapes of Oliwa Park (p.55), which surround the Abbot’s Palace. The excellent Ethnographic Museum (p.68) in the Palace granary - Oliwa Park can occupy an entire day, and rewards those who make the effort! Oliwa is also home to the city Zoo (p.54), which is well worth a visit if you have children with you. Set in the beautiful setting of the forests on the edge of town, you can spend hours wandering up and down the hills. Lastly, Oliwa is home to the tallest skyscraper in the area, the Olivia Star (p.55), whose 32nd floor observation deck recently opened this year. This is as high as you can get legally in northern PL, and the panoramic views, not to mention the setting for a fine meal, should be unbeatable.

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OLIWA CATHEDRAL Taking pride of place at the western end of Oliwa Park, Oliwa’s towering Cathedral was originally built as a simple wooden structure in the 12th century, and it was only in 1224 that the brickwork was added. Built along a classic three-aisle design with a vaulted basilica and shaped in the form of the Latin cross, the interior features a strange and beautiful canopy around the high altar, covered with stars and featuring 150 angels poking out of a mass of clouds. The pièce de résistance, however, is the extraordinary organ over the main entrance. Built between 1755 and 1780 by the organ master Johann Wulf, it was at that time the largest organ of its kind in Europe, and features moving cherubs, fanfaring angels and a staggering 7,896 pipes and 110 registers, allowing for an incredible range of pitch and sounds including rippling water, animal cries and human voices. Hear it for yourself: until the end of the year, recitals are always given at 12.00 mon-sat and 15.00 on sundays. For more recital times, check our timetable: iyp.me/31903QJ‑4, ul. Biskupa Edmunda Nowickiego 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 47 65, www.archikatedraoliwa.pl. Open 07:00-18:00; Sun 07:00-20:00. Admission free unless visiting during an organ recital.

Ristorante con Giardino ul. Czyżewskiego 20, Gdańsk tel. +48 663 200 454 kontakt@congiardino.pl Open: 07:30 - 21:00 54

GDAŃSK ZOO Set in the forests of Oliwa, visit one of Poland’s best zoos, and at a fraction of the price of most western zoos. On show are a host of wild animals, with the kids’ favourites being the lions, elephants, hippos, chimpanzees and giraffes. On a pleasant day it is quite possible to spend most of the day here as the park makes for a pleasant and quite exhausting walk, and in the warm months there are additional attractions such as a train tour of the whole park, a ropes park and a central food area with some small rides for the kids. Bus 179 runs from the ‘Oliwa Pętla’ stop all the way to the front gate. QJ‑1, ul. Karwieńska 3, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 552 17 51, www.zoo.gda.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. In October 09:00-17:00. From November onward 09:0015:00. Admission 30/25zł. In October 25zł/20zł. From November onward 15zł/10zł. Y

Gdańsk Oliwa

„Because shopping is a lot of fun.” Alfa Centrum Gdańsk ul. Kołobrzeska 41C 80-391 Gdańsk Tel: +48 58 769 40 00 (Information Desk) Tel: +48 58 769 40 01 (Administration) alfacentrum.pl info@alfacentrum.pl

OLIWA PARK (PARK OLIWSKI) The exact origins of Oliwa’s delightful 10-hectare park are lost to time, but what is known is that Oliwa’s last Cistercian abbot, Jacek Rybiński (1701-1782) had the gardener design the French Rococo part of the garden, still in existence today in the south of the park. Oliwa Park has evolved with different owners and features now include a botanical section and a Japanese garden. It’s a hugely popular place for people to come and relax, picnic and enjoy the many sights it has on offer. A fun attraction is the so-called ‘Whispering Caves’ (aka. Dionysus’ Ears) to the southeast of the Abbot’s Palace. Assuming that nobody has relieved themselves here for a while, it’s possible for two people to stand in each ‘ear’ and have a conversation in the quietest of whispers.QJ‑5, ul. Opacka 12, Gdańsk, www.parkoliwski.gdansk.pl. Open 05:00-23:00. From November open 05:00-20:00. OLIVIA STAR OBSERVATION DECK Welcome to the highest viewpoint in northern Poland! Found on the 32nd floor of the 180m tall Olivia Star high rise in Oliwa Business Centre, it offers outstanding 360-degree views of the surrounding Tri-city area and the Baltic coast and includes an outdoor terrace in the direction of the sea. The observation level includes a cafe/tapas bar. Tickets are good for 2 hours; entries are timed and limited. QL‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 472C, Gdańsk Oliwa, tel. (+48) 534 034 000, www.oliviastar.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. Last entrance at 21:00. Tickets 15-20zł.

EAT & DRINK ARCO BY PACO PÉREZ All the way up on level 33 of the Olivia Star, you will find brand new high-class Mediterranean restaurant, run by world-famous Catalan chef and holder of 6 Michelin stars Paco Pérez. Arco will work side-by-side with a bodega of 800 wines! Aside the exquisite and highly-scrutinised food that leaves the kitchen, those who have paid to go up to the observation deck have the added benefit of getting an extra hour free, if they choose to dine at this restaurant. So, while you’re up there, why not treat yourself!QL‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 472A. www.oliviastar.pl RISTORANTE CON GIARDINO A cosy Italian-owned and run restaurant. The garden in the name refers to the stone-terraced yard out the back, which is a super spot to relax, but the main reason to visit is the food. The menu is a mix of dishes with Italian and Mediterranean roots and we found the fish soup and seafood risotto with white wine delicious. The linguine with shrimps and chilli was also very tasty while the selection and quality of the pizzas kept the younger ones happy. One for your list if you’re visiting the Park, Cathedral or Zoo.QI‑5, ul. Józefa Czyżewskiego 20, Gdańsk Oliwa, tel. (+48) 663 20 04 54, www.congiardino.pl. Open 07:30-22:00. €€. T6 55

Sopot Sightseeing

The picturesque autumn coastline in Sopot. | Photo by Piotr Wawrzyniuk

Sopot is one of the country’s most famous towns and is extremely fashionable particularly in the summer months when it often feels that half of the capital has decamped here to see and be seen. The town’s reputation was built during the late years of the 19th century and the first few decades of the 20th when, as part of the German Empire and then as a part of the Free City of Gdansk, it became the summer home and playground for many of Europe’s ruling classes. Although there appears to have been human settlement here for over 2,500 years, the city only really started to grow once Jean Haffner, a physician in Napoleon’s army returned after discovering it while stationed here in the Napoleonic Wars. The creation of a series of bathhouses and spas led to the town becoming an increasingly fashionable health resort which lured a select, affluent and aristocratic set drawn by the vibrant social life as much as by the soothing waters of the St. Adalbert spring. Damaged but not destroyed by WWII, the city attracted an increasingly Bohemian, artistic and later reactionary crowd during the years of communist rule when its fame was also increased by playing host to the Soviet Bloc’s equivalent of the Eurovision Song Content (p.60). 56

All the activity in Sopot tends to centre around ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino (The Heroes of Monte Cassino Street), which is known by the locals as Monciak. A recent multi-million euro investment has seen the lower end of the strip has given the strip a new and modern look with state of the art conference facilities, hotels, art gallery, bars, restaurants and clubs springing up to surround the centrepiece of the development - the fourth incarnation of Sopot’s Spa House (see #7). Sopot is still a nightlife hotspot (p.114) while its beaches and range of top class hotels and spas are once again attracting an international audience drawn by its beauty and value for money. Kilometres of cycle routes and forest paths also make it ideal for those who like an active form of relaxation. Outside of the high season, you’ll find a pretty little town with some very good restaurants and a relaxed air - whatever the weather. With Gdańsk and Gdynia on either side, Sopot is an excellent place to visit to relax, see the sights and then dance til dawn if the mood takes you!

Explore Sopot online! iyp.me/sopot

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SOPOT WALKING TOUR This walking tour starts and finishes at Sopot Train Station, proceeds down Monte Cassino towards the seafront and passes a number of key sites along the way. On the return leg, we’ve tried to steer you past some of the old villas that are typical of the area. It’s about 40 minutes of walking, though you may choose to stop at a bar, laze on the beach or have a nap in the park. Either way, you should take it easy - after all, that’s why people come to Sopot! 1 GARRISON CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE Designed by German Architect Louis Von Tiedemann between 1899 and 1901 under the patronage of Prussian Empress Augusta Victoria (who chipped in 1,000 marks of her own money towards its construction), the Neo-Gothic Garrison Church of St. George stands on the site of Sopot’s former market square. Originally Evangelist, the church has been Roman Catholic since Sopot’s re-incorporation into Poland in 1945. The minimalist whitewashed interior comprises three unremarkable stone and brick naves, some charming modern stained glass and a wooden relief of the Virgin Mary by Zofia Kamilska-Trzcińska, which used to be on board the SS Batory as a token of luck during the war. A Neo-Gothic chapel complete with ceramic roof stands in the square outside. Once a well, the chapel now shelters

GETTING TO SOPOT FROM GDAŃSK We recommend Public Transport as the simplest option, specifically the SKM Train Service. From Gdańsk Główny (Platform 3), Gdańsk Śródmieście (Platform 1) and other stations between there and Sopot, take the train going in the direction of Gdynia Głowna and Wejherowo. A normal ticket will cost you 4.20zł and take about 20 minutes. By Car, whether you’re coming from the south or north (Gdynia), you will most likely approach to Sopot via the main road, Al. Niepodległości. The city centre is quite small and can often get jammed up with traffic during the summer months. Good luck finding parking! FROM GDYNIA Public transport, specifically the SKM Train Service, is the simplest option. From Gdynia Główna (Platform 1) and other stations north of Sopot, take the train going in the direction of Gdańsk Główny, Gdańsk Śródmieście or Gdańsk Wrzeszcz. A normal ticket will cost you 3.80zł and take about 15 minutes. By car, like from Gdańsk, will most likely approach Sopot via Al. Niepodległości. 57

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Sopot Sightseeing a rather forlorn-looking statue of St. Adalbert (St. Wojciech in Polish). St. Adalbert, a Czech missionary, was martyred in 997 after trying to convert the pagan population near Elbląg (72km south-east of here) and his name was later attributed to the natural bromide springs in the area (see #3).QN-6, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 05 48, www.jerzy.sopot.pl. Open 07:30-19:00.

‘MONCIAK’

One may wonder why Sopot’s main street, Bohaterów Monte Cassino (The Heroes of Monte Cassino), carries the name of an Italian town. No, it’s not because of the accumulation of classy Italian restaurants in the area, although many Polish-Italians may have been attracted to the name! The truth is that it commemorates one of the proudest achievements in modern Polish military history. In 1943, after a successful invasion of Sicily, Allied forces moved to the continent and it seemed nothing could stop them until they approached a mountain range on the way to Rome. The area was occupied by the Germans defending what was called the Gustav Line, at the heart of which lay Monte Cassino. The battle that followed was actually a series of four intense battles which took place between January 20 and May 18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino. Involving British, US, Indian, French, North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish troops, fierce fighting raged against the Germans on a slow and brutal advance towards the monastery. At a cost of over 25,000 lives the final battle ended on the morning of May 18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish 12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally fought their way through to the completely devastated monastery. The Battle of Monte Cassino was won, the Gustav Line broken and the Allied advance on Rome continued. Today it is one of Poland’s most famous streets, frequently clogged in high season, and fondly known as Monciak (Monchack) to the locals.

2 CROOKED HOUSE Opened in 2004, the award winning, exceedingly higgledypiggledy building by Polish architects Szotyńscy Zaleski was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of Jan Marcin Szancer (1902-1973) and the drawings of the Swedish artist and Sopot resident Per Dahlberg. The most photographed building in Sopot, Centrum Rezydent’s 4,000m2 landmark is topped with a roof of blue-green enamelled shingles designed to give the impression of a dragon, while the remarkably curved walls and windows make it one of the most striking buildings you’re ever likely to see. Whilst it’s comparatively boring inside, it does come to life as night falls, thanks to the mass of bars and clubs inside, and you’d not be wrong for thinking that it got its name because of the state of the people falling out of it in the early hours. Keep an eye out for the wall of fame on the ground floor where Polish celebrities have left their signatures.QO-6, ul. Haffnera 6, Sopot. 3 INHALATION MUSHROOMS Sopot is known historically as a health and spa resort, which goes beyond just a bit of seaside R&R. The spas pump water from the Spring of St Adalbert, which contains bromide and iodine with large quantities of magnesium potassium and potassium iodine. When watered down it is drinkable and used to replenish medical deficiencies and is recommended for gastrointestinal disorders. The waters are also recommended for bathing and for those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism. This glass-domed Inhalation Mushroom in the Sopot’s South Park pumps out the water as a mist and sitting and breathing in the iodine-filled air is recommended for a whole host of breathing complaints. You can taste the water by popping into the café on the third floor of the Sopot Tourism Association’s point in The Spa House (see #7). The staff will happily explain how it works and fill you a cup direct from the spring.QO-6, Pl. Zdrojowy, Sopot.

Crooked House

Sopot Sightseeing

Inhalation Mushroom 4 SOUTH PARK When Jean Haffner developed the Grand Spa complex in 1824, he wanted to ensure that his guests had somewhere peaceful to lounge about. Thus, the South Park and, later, the North Park (1km north of here) was created part of this R&R expansion. In the 1990s, the South Park was renovated to give it the feeling of its 1920s ‘golden-era’. After the Smoleńsk Air Disaster in 2010, which claimed many lives including then-President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria, the park was renamed in their honour.QO-7, Piastów 5, Sopot. 5 OLD LIGHTHOUSE Built as part of a grand spa complex at the beginning of the 20th-century, Sopot’s lighthouse was completed in 1904 and is located right next to the pier entrance. Its design is rather ingenious in that the structure’s primary function was that of a chimney for the boiler that heated the spa waters. The architect came up with the idea of disguising the chimney by constructing a viewing tower and lighthouse around it. A stone spiral staircase takes you up 135 steps to the 25m viewing platform, with a welcoming sofa thoughtfully provided half way up. The viewing platform provides wonderful 360-degree views and photo opportunities of the coast, pier and the roofs of Sopot. The crest over the doorway comprises a mermaid, triton, and the official crest of the city.QO-6, Pl. Zdrojowy, Sopot. Open 10:00 till dusk, subject to the weather. Admission 6/4zł. Credit cards accepted. 6 SOPOT PIER (MOLO) Sopot’s pier provides stunning views of the sea by day and night. After he was done building the The pier was built in 1827 by a doctor in Napoleon’s army and has been renovated several times. At 511m, it’s the longest in the Baltic region and the longest wooden pier in Europe (Southend-on-Sea in the UK is the longest overall in case you were wondering). The pier was re-opened to its full length in July 2011 with the completion of a brand new marina at its tip as well as the construction of a restaurant

Sopot Sightseeing THE FOREST OPERA

and a raised viewing platform. Note that you have to pay for the privilege to walk the pier at certain times during the high season. Also, save yourself the embarrassment and don’t try taking alcohol onto the pier - it’s not allowed!QP-6, Sopot, www.molo.sopot.pl. Open 24 hours. Admission 8/4zł until 29.09.2019. Free until 25.04.2020. 6 7 THE SPA HOUSE For the best part of 200 years the city has attracted people from all over Europe and beyond with its rejuvenating spas and health resorts. The heart of Sopot’s spa district is the Spa House with its wonderful rotunda which looks out over the fountain, gardens and pier. The first spa house was built in 1824 and was remodelled and rebuilt so that, by the early part of the 20th century, it included ballrooms, restaurants, a hotel and a casino. The current incarnation is the fourth spa house with this one dating to 2009. The building today houses the State Art Gallery, Sopot Tourist Information, restaurants, cafes, galleries and (of course) a spa. Safe to say, it plays a big part in attracting visitors to Sopot from Poland and abroad.QO-6, Powstańców Warszawy 2, Sopot.

Photo by fotobank.pl

The Forest Opera is a wonderful open-air arena set in a hollow in the forests surrounding the city in a western district of Sopot. With a history going back to 1909, the theatre has seen everything from German opera to Whitney Houston performances and has hosted the Sopot Song Festival in various guises since 1964. A rebuilding programme between 2009 and 2012 now sees this unique location integrated with 21st-century facilities and one of the best sound and vision systems in Europe. The Forest Opera is also a good starting point for a number of forest walks, one of which leads into Sopot, another to a splendid viewing point overlooking the bay. You’ll find it a 10-15 minute walk from Bohaterów Monte Cassino, though it is a steady uphill route all the way there. Walk up Monte Cassino, passing under the railway line and the main road before carrying on along ul. 1-go Maja to the end. Next, there is a pathway going up with Hotel Opera on your left, which will bring you to the main gate. Allow yourself at least 30 minutes to get to your seat from Bohaterów Monte Cassino on a busy night. The city’s Forest Opera can be contacted directly or refer to BART in regards to events and concerts. Also, be aware that the site listed here is the official site of the Forest Opera as there are a few unofficial ones out there!QM‑4, ul. Moniuszki 12, Sopot, www.operalesna.sopot.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. L 60

Sopot Spa House

8 THE GRAND HOTEL Formerly the Kasino Hotel, this indeed-grand building is one of Sopot’s defining architectural features. Opened in 1927, during the inter-war Golden Age of Sopot, here it sits majestically overlooking the beach and Gdańsk Bay. Known as the ‘Monaco of the Baltic’ in its heyday, it housed a casino that attracted the rich and famous of Europe and further afield. Notable guests have included Marlena Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Fidel Castro, Adolf Hitler, Vladimir Putin, The Shah Of Iran, Charles de Gaulle, Omar Sherif and Boney M! In 2006, it became the Sofitel Grand Hotel and has undergone some interior refurbishment, though it still retains a lot of its classic 1920s look. If you’re not a guest, the cheapest way to sneak a peak is to have a meal at the Art Deco Restaurant, which resides inside the hotel (p.97). QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14, Sopot.

Sopot Sightseeing

Steaks from the best seasoned Black Angus beef, valued by true connoisseurs and gourments around the world. Soft, juicy and tender. Beef from Poland, Australia, Ireland, Uruguay and the USA.

GDAŃSK ul. Długi Targ 22/23 • tel. 501-102-191

SOPOT ul. Grunwaldzka 8-10/2 • tel. 798-557-008

kontakt@t-bone.com.pl

www.t-bone.com.pl

Gdynia Sightseeing

Dar Pomorze Ship Museum on Gdynia’s waterfront (p.66). | Courtesy of the City of Gdynia.

GETTING THERE FROM GDAŃSK By Car, this is best done by use of the Obwodnica (ring road) after negotiating Sopot, which will get you to the centre of Gdynia in about 20 minutes. By Train from Gdańsk Główny (platform 3) and other stations south of Sopot, take the train going in the direction of Gdynia Główna, Gdynia Chylonia and Wejherowo. It will cost 6.50zł and take about 35 minutes. There are a number of stations serving Gdynia, however, Gdynia Główna is closest to the centre – a 10 minute walk away. Exit the station, turn right and follow ul. 10-go Lutego. However, we recommend taking our Walking Tour route - it’s way more interesting! FROM SOPOT By Car, this is best done by use of the Obwodnica (ring road), which will get you to the centre of Gdynia in about 10 minutes. Though it’s the best laid out of the 3 cities in terms of roads, parking in Gdynia is a challenge these days. By Train, from Sopot Main Station (platform 1) and other stations south of Gdynia, take the train going in the direction of Gdynia Główna, Gdynia Chylonia and Wejherowo. This trip will cost 4.20zł and take about 20 minutes. As mentioned before, Gdynia Główna is the closest station to the centre – a 10 minute walk away. 62

While most tourists in Tri-city will prioritise a visit Gdańsk and Sopot above Gdynia, we at In Your Pocket are here to challenge that bias. Gdynia is a young, modern Polish city and there’s a lot going on. Here you will find plenty of amazing cafés, nightlife and music venues, restaurants, beach and other cultural institutions that make this “the happiest city in Poland”, according to a PBS DGA 2019 poll. Following the end of WWI, the small town, which had been a fishing village for centuries, suddenly found itself at the end of new narrow strip of territory, the infamous Polish Corridor, that allowed the new Polish Republic access to the Baltic sea. Developed as a port and both an economic and maritime rival of the Free City of Danzig (now Gdańsk and Sopot), Gdynia developed rapidly in the 1920s and was granted City Rights in 1926. Polish independence was short-lived and Nazi Germany invaded in 1939. Relatively undamaged compared to neighbouring areas, it was liberated/occupied by the Soviets in 1945 and lived under communism until Solidarity in the nearby- Gdańsk shipyards brought about Polish independence in 1989. In this walking tour, you will get a cross section of Gdynia’s short but dynamic history, as well as getting a feel for the centre of town! You’ll start at the main station in town, Gdynia Główna (Q-3), and finish at another, Gdynia Wzgórze Św.Maksym. This tour is about 1 hour of walking plus lunch, breaks and however long you choose to take in each site. Though it’s unlikely you will visit every museum listed, you may average 2-3 hours of this in a realistic day’s worth of sightseeing

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Gdynia Sightseeing 4

EMIGRATION MUSEUM

Opened in May, 2015, this a fascinating look at how, why and to where millions of Poles have emigrated over the centuries. With Poland thought to have the sixth-largest diaspora in the world (the group is known as the Polonia and is thought to number over 20 million), the museum does an excellent job of explaining the various situations, political and economic, which have made people consistently leave Poland, to places like the USA, Australia and even Brazil. The building, which is the museum’s home, is also particularly noteworthy. Located on the French Quay in Gdynia Port, the beautifully-renovated Dworzec Morski (Marine Station) dates from the 1930s and is a wonderful example of the architecture that was in fashion as Gdynia expanded rapidly after WWI. The building became the main gateway to the world for Polish emigrants in the inter-war years. There is a line in the Polish national anthem that states ‘Poland has not yet perished. As long as we still live’ and, as you hear it playing at the exhibitions start, it somehow wonderfully sums up both the battered history of this country and the spirit which has kept it alive as a nation. The exhibition is larger than it appears at first, so give yourself 2-3 hours to wander through the exhibition which includes some wonderful personal memories and stories. Visitors have commented that it starts slowly but gets better and better as you move through. It is highly recommended, particularly if you are one of the Polonia, which is something you can check as the museum is one of very places which has free access to Ancestry.com records for its visitors to do family searches on. To get to the museum, take bus number 119 (weekdays only) or 133 (check that the destination is Dworzec Morski - Emigration Museum) from Gdynia Główna train station (bus stop is actually on ul. Jana z Kolna) or bus 137 from the Batory Shopping Mall on ul. Armii Krajowej. Alternatively, a taxi will cost about 20zł or you can walk there in 20 minutes from the city centre.QS-1, ul. Polska 1, Gdynia (Dworzec Morski), tel. (+48) 58 670 41 61, www.polska1.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Tue 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 30zł. Children under 7 free. Wed free. 64

1 DISPLACED GDYNIAN MONUMENT This particularly emotive monument was created to remember those Gdynians deported from the city following the Nazi takeover in 1939. Estimates range from 120,000 to 170,000 people from the Tri-city area and included an estimated 30,000 who were interred or sent as forced labour elsewhere in the Reich. The homes and property left behind were taken over by Germans resettled in the city as the Germans fortified it as a Naval base. As part of the Nazi’s policy of ‘Germanisation’, Gdynia was renamed Gotenhafen (Literally translating to ‘Goths Port’), which referenced the ancient East Germanic tribe of Goths that once inhabited the area. When the war ended many of those deportees, who had survived the war, returned on foot to try to find their loved ones and reclaim their homes. Gdynia population in 1939 was about 127,000 people. By the end of the war, that number had dropped to 70,000 by the end of 1945. The statue depicts a mother, her son and daughter with nothing more than a suitcase walking in the direction of the railway station as the daughter reaches out to her dog, which she has been forced to leave behind. It was designed by Paweł Sasin and Adam Dziejowski and unveiled in October 2014.QQ-3, Pl. Gdynian Wysiedlonych, Gdynia. 2 ABRAHAM’S HOUSE One of the oldest cottages in Gdynia, built here at Starowiejska 30 in 1904. Most notably, it served as home for the Kashubian activist Antoni Abraham from 1920 up until his death in 1923. The Kashubians are an ethnic group in the north of Poland with their own distinct language and culture, which is described as a mix of Polish and German. Gdynia is located in the Kashubian area of Eastern Pomerania and the oldest known record of the locality is as a Kashubian fishing village in 1253. The etymology of both Gdynia and Gdańsk come from the old Kashubian name for the Motława river Gdania (today Kashubians call Gdynia ‘Gdiniô’). Antoni Abraham was instrumental in Gdynia (as part of Kashubia) becoming part of Polish territory, thus helping this small coastal town develop into the only Polish port on the Baltic. You will learn more about Antoni Abraham in the next point and there is also an exhibit on his life at the City of Gdynia Museum (See #10). This cottage, formerly a small Abraham museum, is now a restaurant. On the corner of ul. Staromejska and ul. Świętojanska you will find his statue. QR-3, ul. Starowiejska 30, Gdynia. Admission 2/1zł. Guided tours by prior arrangement 10zł. 3 ANTONI ABRAHAM MONUMENT Born in 1869 in Zdrada, 25km north of Gdynia, Antoni Abraham is honoured locally as the Kashubian activist who campaigned for the incorporation of Kashubia into the newly-formed Polish state after WWI. In 1891, becoming one of the founding members of the People’s Society ‘Unity’ (Towarzystwo Ludowe „Jedność”), his activism openly criticised Prussian rulers and the local Kashubian population, who he considered passive and lacking national awareness. Abraham suffered the tragedy of seeing one of his daughters die in an accident as a child and further tragedy

Orłowo Pier in Gdynia on a gorgeous autumn morning (T-11).

Photo by Kamil

awaited when he, his two sons and his son-in-law were conscripted into the German army in 1915. In combat, all three younger men were to die on the front while Abraham himself was seriously wounded. Abraham attended the Paris Peace Conference of 1919, where the map of Europe was re-drawn following the German defeat in WWI, and the notably-sized Kashubian representation that supported the Polish delegation was crucial in large parts of Kashubia becoming part of Polish territory in 1920. Abraham moved into the house on ul. Starowiejska later that year and was awarded the Order of Polonia Restituta by President Stanisław Wojciechowski in 1922, who described him as ‘a prince of the Kashubian people, whose enduring belief in his faith and language is the reason that the Polish flag now flies over the Baltic Sea’ (Wojciechowski was specifically referencing the new territorial access to the Baltic via ‘The Polish Corridor’). Just a few weeks later, Abraham became seriously ill with cancer and died on June 23, 1923. This statue, designed by Stanisław Szwechowicz, was unveiled on June 23, 2001 (the 78th anniversary of Abraham’s death), this 4m tall statue of the man carries the inscription ‘Syna Ziemi Kaszubskiej – Bojownika O Jej Polskość’ (Son of the Kashubian Land - Fighter for its Polishness). The yellow and black flags you see raised is the flag of Kashubia.QR-3, Pl. Kaszubski, Gdynia.

guns were firing so constantly that the crew had to continually douse them with seawater to prevent them from overheating. The heroic defence and the smokescreen that was lit was enough to thwart the Luftwaffe, and the captain and crew were hailed as the ‘Saviours of Cowes’. Less forthcoming in their recognition were the pedants in the British Admiralty; conscious of condoning a blatant violation of the rules they sent a tight-lipped dispatch commending the good work done by Francki. At the end of the war, the Błyskawica returned to Poland, though without its captain and many of its crew. Francki chose a new life in Australia, away from the suspicions and hostility of the new communist government. In 2004, the actions of the Błyskawica were formally acknowledged, and a plaque unveiled in the port of Cowes by Francki’s daughter. The ship itself was retired from service in 1969 and has since served as a museum ship, held in the sort of regard the Britain reserves for the HMS Victory. It’s the only ship to be awarded Poland’s highest military decoration, the Gold Cross of the Virtuti Militari Order. Museum time: 1 hour.QS-3, Skwer Kościuszki 12, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. From October open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Open to visitors between May 1st and the end of November. Admission 16/8zł and family ticket 24zł. Joint ticket for the Naval Museum and Błyskawica 24/12zł and 40zł for the family ticket. Ticket office is closed between 13:00-14:00 and from 40 min before business hours end.

5 ORP ‘BŁYSKAWICA’ BATTLESHIP Known in Poland as ‘The Warship of the Polish Republic’, Błyskawica (Lightning) was one of the fastest destroyers in the world when it launched in 1936. Following the invasion of Poland by Nazi Germany, the ship and her crew were placed under the command of the British Navy. Błyskawica saw action several times, including in the Mediterranean, Normandy and as an Atlantic convoy escort. However, her best-known engagement was in 1942 off the coast of the British Isle of Wight. On the evening of May 4th, the town of Cowes came under attack from up to 160 Luftwaffe bombers. Anticipating an attack, Captain Wojciech Francki had sneakily ensured that the Błyskawica was well-armed, despite a ruling stating the vessel must be decommissioned while in port. In a further breach of regulations, Francki ordered his crew to fight off the waves of bombers, and what followed was a ferocious battle between sea and air. According to recounts taken from the crew, the ship’s

Blyskawica

Courtesy of the City of Gdynia

Gdynia Sightseeing 6 ‘DAR POMORZA’ MUSEUM SHIP Originally named Prinzess Eitel Friedrich in honour of for Duchess Sophia Charlotte of Oldenburg, wife of Prussia Prince Eitel Friedrich. This three-masted training ship has visited 383 ports and travelled more than 800,000km in her time at sea. Constructed in 1909 in Hamburg to train cadets for the German navy, in 1920 she was taken by the British as part of post-WWI reparations and was later given to the French Naval School in St Nazaire, who named her Colbert. It was then passed on to the French-born Baron Maurice de Forest, whose beloved steam-yacht ‘The Honor’ had also been confiscated in similar post-war reparations (he had been adopted at a young age into the German aristocracy). He had the idea of turning it into a luxury yacht and then changed his mind to modernise it with an engine! However, de Forest realised his plans were too expensive and he sold it for £7,000 to the Polish Naval Academy in Gdynia. At this point, she was renamed Dar Pomorza (The Gift Of Pomerania), showing how much of a big deal it was purchasing a ship like that at the time. Like previously, the Naval Academy used it as a training ship and Since 1972, she has taken part in numerous sailing competitions, winning the Cutty Sark Trophy in 1980. A year later she was bestowed with the highest Polish State decoration: The Order of Polonia Restituta. In 1983, she became part of the collection of National Maritime Museum in Gdańsk. Museum time: 1 hour.QS-3, Al. Jana Pawła II (Nabrzeże Pomorskie), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 23 71, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed from November to Mid-February. Admission 12/8zł. Y

7 GDYNIA AQUARIUM A great place to visit in town, especially for the kids (p.76) but who ever said adults don’t like aquariums too? Exhibits cover marine life from across the globe, including residents in Baltic waters, which is everything from fish, sharks and octopi to crocodiles, snakes, crabs and tortoises. In total, there approximately 2,000 aquatic and water-land animals living in more than 130 metric tonnes of water. They also delve into the evolution of submersible technology through the decades and current issues relating to the sea environment. Afterwards, if you brought a packed lunch, you can eat it on the deck. Museum time: 1-2 hours. QT-4, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 732 66 01, www.akwarium.gdynia.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. From October open 10:00-17:00. Admission 29/19zł; kids under 4 free. Family tickets available. Audioguides 2zł. U 8 JOSEPH CONRAD MONUMENT A name well-recognised in English literature, many people don’t know that Joseph Conrad was actually born Józef Teodor Konrad Korzeniowski (1857-1924), who hailed from Berdychiv (now Ukraine) and was a merchant-marine for almost 20 years before first being published. Novels like The Secret Agent and Heart Of Darkness, which inspired the 1971 film Apocalypse Now, were often cynical reflections of Euro-imperialism and colonialism that he had witnessed as he travelled between the ports of the British, French and Belgian Empires. As for Gdynia, Conrad had no known connections with this place and this sculpture simply lays claim to his Polish nationality and the influence that his sea-faring years had on his works. However, this is one of only a few monuments in the world dedicated to this literary genius, and the only to depict his likeness. An inscription, taken from his novel Lord Jim, reads in Polish, “Nic tak nie nęci, nie rozczarowuje i nie zniewala, jak życie na morzu” (There is nothing more enticing, disenchanting, and enslaving than life at sea). QT-4, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia. 9 GDYNIA NAVAL MUSEUM If you haven’t been distracted by the beach (we don’t blame you), this place is worth a visit. For millitary and naval buffs, adults and eccentric children (See p.76). Museum time: 1 hour.QS-4, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł, family ticket 30zł. Tue free.

From here, you may choose to divert from the main route and continue south on a scenic route along the coastline and eventually right up Aleja Piłsudskiego. The remaining walking time is about the same.

/polandinyourpocket Joseph Conrad Monument

Gdynia Sightseeing

Gdynia Naval Museum

GDYNIA CITY MUSEUM A modern museum which presents a changing series of temporary exhibitions all related to the short but fascinating history of this relatively young city. See photography collections of early Gdynia, watch the accounts of people who lived through both German and Russian occupations, listen to local music of the Communist era and read accounts from an incredibly diverse population that lived here in the early 20th-century. An exhibition space on the 2nd floor often functions as an art gallery. Museum time: 1 hour QS-4, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 586 62 09 10, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admision 10/5zł. Family ticket 15zł. Kids under 7 free. U

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10 STONE HILL FUNICULAR A great view of the Hel peninsula and the Baltic Sea awaits you at the top of Kamienna Góra, a hill in the heart of the city. The stairs are currently closed, however there is a free modern glass gondola to get you up! From the city museum, head along ul. Franciszka Sędzickiego and follow the path behind the Theatre building. The gondola is next to the entrance of the Outdoor Music Shell in the park. QR-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1. Open 10:00-20:00. 11 JÓZEF PIŁSUDSKI MONUMENT A statue for a name you may have seen around in other Polish cities. Marshall Józef Piłsudski is widely recognised as being the key figure in Poland regaining her independence after 123 years in 1918 and then preserving it by miraculously defeating the Red Army on their advance westward in August 1920. Despite ruling by what even supporters described as authoritarian methods (He took power by a coup in 1926), Piłsudski is still widely respected for his strong leadership in the nine years before his death in 1935. He also believed in a multi-ethnic Poland, what he called “a home of nations” including indigenous ethnic and religious minorities. This statue, located across the road from the Gdynia City Hall, was unveiled on November 10, 2013.QR-5, Al. Piłsudskiego, Gdynia.

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Tri-city Museums

A workshop for children at the Emigration Museum in Gdynia. (p.64)

There’s actually no better place to learn about the history, culture and character of the Tri-city than its museums, some of which should be on every tourist itinerary. To find out about current temporary exhibits, visit our Events section (p.14). The museums listed here may be found across the Tri-city area, so check the city name in the address carefully, and follow the page references where indicated. A full directory of museums in each city can be found online.

IN GDAŃSK AMBER MUSEUM See p.26.QB‑4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:0018:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y ARTUS COURT See p.28.QC‑5, Długi Targ 43/44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:0016:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y CRANE (ŻURAW) See p.32.QD‑4, ul. Szeroka 67/68, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 69 38, www.nmm.pl. From November open 10:0016:00. Admission 10/6zł. Wed free. Tickets available from the Maritime Cultural Centre next door. Y ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM This delightful little diversion features three floors showcasing all manner of folk-related artefacts from Eastern Pomerania and is considered to be one of the 68

best collections of its kind in Poland.QJ‑5, ul. Cystersów 19 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 101, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Fri free. N EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE See p.38.QB‑1, Plac Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 12, www.ecs.gda.pl. From October open 10:0017:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission to the permanent exhibition 20/15zł, family ticket 55zł. Play department 9zł per child per hour. TU FREE CITY OF DANZIG HISTORICAL ZONE See p.29.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 25/27, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 602 27 80 51, www.strefahistorycznawmg.pl. From October open 12:00-17:00. Admission 8/5zł. N GDANSK HISTORY MUSEUM The History of Gdansk museum calls the impressive Main Town Hall or Ratusz Głównego Miasta home. Access the building by the gate to the left of the main staircase which leads you to the ticket office. The first rooms you come across are the ornate Great Council Hall and Red Hall, the latter of which features lavish ceilings paintings, including The Glorification of the Unity of Gdansk. Subsequent rooms feature vintage 16th and 17th furniture and a sampling of the museum’s 600 silver pieces, which highlight Gdansk’s silversmithing era. The top floor of the museum features a exhibition showcasing what life was like in everyday Gdansk right before the war.QC‑5, ul. Długa 46/47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Mon 10:00-13:00; Sun 11:0018:00. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free.

Tri-city Museums MARITIME CULTURE CENTRE The new building in the shadow of Gdańsk’s Crane is the Maritime Culture Centre. Spread over 4 floors, kids will find the interactive displays of interest as they learn about the sea, marine technology and how the two work together. There is a permanent exhibition entitled Boats of the Peoples of the World (Working Boats), which presents scores of small craft from all over the world, including Native American dugout canoes, a fabulous little English coracle and numerous small fishing and trade vessels from the Far East. There are plenty of good English descriptions plus the Cała Naprzód (Polish: Full Steam Ahead) on the fourth floor, which offers great photo opportunities of the river from its terrace.QD‑4, ul. Tokarska 21-25 (entrance from ul. Długie Pobrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. From November open 10:00-16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission to the Interactive Exhibition ‘People, Ships, Boats’ 10/6zł. Family ticket (up to 2 adults and 3 children) 20zł. Admission to the ‘Boats of the Peoples of the World Exhibition’ 6/4zł, Wed free for permanent exhibition. TU MUSEUM OF GDAŃSK SCIENCE Located in the tower of St. Catherine’s Church this small museum exhibits a collection of tower clock mechanisms dating back to the 15th century. With the advent of electrical mechanisms in the 1960s, mechanical mechanisms went out of fashion and the museum offers you a look back into a period where time-keeping may not have been as efficient but it was certainly more beautiful to watch in action. St Catherine’s is also home to one of only 2 carillons in Poland, currently a 49 bell with a mechanical keyboard. The views from the tower are also worth climbing the 258 steps to the top (you need to climb 66 steps just to reach the ticket office).QB‑3, St. Catherine’s Church, ul. Wielkie Młyny 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Open only from 27 April to 27 September. Closed from 29th October until March. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. N NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM If you only have time to visit one of the four branches of Gdańsk’s Maritime Museum, make it this one - the main branch and most comprehensive of the lot, located inside three Renaissance granaries across the river from the Crane. A complete history of Poland’s nautical history is represented on several floors and includes old cannons, huge oil paintings, harpoon guns, a hall dedicated to underwater archaeology, shipbuilders’ hard hats from the Lenin Shipyard, a few pieces of modern art and an extensive collection of model ships.QD‑4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm. pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Nov 05-17 open 10:00-16:00. Dec 03-31 open 10:00-15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Wed free for permanent exhibition. U 69

Tri-city Museums GDAŃSK TOURIST CARD

The Gdansk Tourist Organisation offers a Tourist Card and there are now three packages tailored to specific groups of tourists: families with children, sightseeing buffs and those who want to move around the three cities visiting some of the key sites. The packages are called: Family Fun, Sightseeing and Transportation. Venues in our print guide that participate in the Tourist Card programme have been marked with a TC icon. It is also possible to add a Metropolitan transport ticket to the Family Fun and Sightseeing packages so you have free public transport included in those too. We recommend that you take the maximum options on this as it is only a few złoty more expensive and it will avoid any confusion later about which form of transport you are allowed to use it on. To find out more about what’s included in each package check their website at kartaturysty.visitgdansk.com, or visit one of their offices. Type of ticket

48-h

72-h

Family Fun Card (Normal)

40zł

50zł

60zł

Family Fun Card (Reduced)

25zł

35zł

45zł

Sightseeing Card (Normal)

50zł

65zł

80zł

Sightseeing Card (Reduced)

30zł

40zł

50zł

Transportation Card (Normal)

43zł

n/a

66zł

Transportation Card (Reduced)

31.50zł

n/a

43zł

Public transport ticket (Normal)

23zł

n/a

46zł

11.50zł

n/a

23zł

Public transport ticket (Reduced)

24-h

You can pick a Tourist Card up from the following venues: • Lech Wałęsa Airport: ul. Słowackiego 200 • Info point in Madison Shopping Centre near the train station: ul. Rajska 10 (B-2) • Gdańsk Tourist Info Centre: ul. Długi Targ 28/29 (C-5) • Pomeranian Tourist Info Centre: ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 2A (B-4) 70

NATIONAL MUSEUM, OLD ART DEPARTMENT Located in a former Franciscan monastery, the National Museum is a work of art itself with vaulted ceilings and a large staircase that houses an impressive collection of equally beautiful objects, which hardly seem to deserve the unflattering description of being simply ‘old art.’ Here you’ll find paintings showing pre-destruction Gdańsk and its wealthy residents, as well as the work of Dutch artists in another room. The main draw, however, is Hans Memling’s highly detailed triptych The Final Judgment, which was returned to Gdańsk by the Russians in 1956 after a circuitous journey through the hands of Napoleonic troops and Nazis.QB‑6, ul. Toruńska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 61 ext. 233, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 09:0016:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, visitors ages 7-26 1zł. Fri free. POLISH POST OFFICE MUSEUM See p.43.QC‑3, ul. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk. pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Tue 10:00-13:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Tue free. Y ROMANESQUE CELLAR The original settlement of Gdańsk appears to have been around the area to the north of the current ‘Old Town’ close to the Covered Market Hall (Hala Targowa) and the Dominican Church of St. Nicholas. Archaeologists, looking for evidence of the first Dominican church, made the discovery in 2005 between the Covered Market Hall and the current church. Aside the foundations of the original church, there were bone vaults which were still in remarkably good condition. After years of work it is now possible to venture down into the vault which it is believed was used by monks at meal times while a fellow brother read passages of the Bible to them. Of particular note is an ossuarium, a vault containing hundreds of bones from graves which had been cleared at some point in the past to permit expansion of the church. Also keep an eye out for the ancient brick in the vault with a cross carved into it. Ask the friendly lady on duty to put the English soundtrack on for you and spend no more than 20-30 minutes down there.QB‑3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 508 81 65 02, www.archeologia.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł, kids under 16 1zł, kids under 7 free. Sun free. Y SS ‘SOŁDEK’ MUSEUM SHIP See p.34.QD‑4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11 ext. 327, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Y WORLD WAR II MUSEUM See p.42.QD‑2, Pl. Władysława Bartoszewskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 75 20, www.muzeum1939. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 23/16zł, family ticket 55zł (2 adults and up to 3 children). Tue free.

Tri-city Museums

IN SOPOT SOPOT MUSEUM The Museum of Sopot can be found in a beachside villa dating from 1903 which was originally built for the prosperous Gdansk-Dutch merchant Ernst Claaszen as a family home. The building itself is an interesting look at the architecture of the city at the turn of the 20th century, a time when it was granted full civic rights. The lower floor shows how the house would have looked when the Claaszen family lived there and includes a number of family possessions including furniture, paintings and even children’s toys. The upper floor plays host to temporary exhibitions which are generally connected to one part or other of the city’s history.QP-8, ul. Poniatowskiego 8, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 22 66, www.muzeumsopotu.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Sun free.

IN GDYNIA ‘DAR POMORZA’ MUSEUM SHIP See p.66.QS-3, Al. Jana Pawła II (Nabrzeże Pomorskie), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 23 71, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed from November to Mid-February. Admission 12/8zł. Y EMIGRATION MUSEUM See p.64.QS-1, ul. Polska 1, Gdynia (Dworzec Morski), tel. (+48) 58 670 41 61, www.polska1.pl. Open 10:0018:00; Tue 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 30zł. Children under 7 free. Wed free.

GDYNIA CITY MUSEUM See p.67.QS-4, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 586 62 09 10, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:0018:00; Thu 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admision 10/5zł. Family ticket 15zł. Kids under 7 free. U GDYNIA NAVAL MUSEUM See p.76.QS-4, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:0018:00; Sun 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł, family ticket 30zł. Tue free. ORP ‘BŁYSKAWICA’ BATTLESHIP See p.65.QS-3, Skwer Kościuszki 12, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. In October open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. From November 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł and family ticket 24zł. Joint ticket for the Naval Museum and Błyskawica 24/12zł and 40zł for the family ticket. Ticket office is closed between 13:00-14:00 and from 40 min before business hours end.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 71

Activities & Experiences If you’re looking for a more alternative way to see and experience the Tri‑city, or simply enjoy letting ‘the pros’ organise your time, check out the ideas below. More online at iyp.me/polandshop

MAŁGORZATA MAZUR TOUR GUIDE Małgorzata is a charming and knowledgable tour guide that runs walking tours in all areas of the Tri-city, as well as one-day trips down into Kashubia and up along the Hel Peninsula. She is truly amazing and her expertise handles all the necessary logistics, from vehicle rentals to transport and museum tickets, taking the burden off you so that you can enjoy a hassle-free experience. There is really nothing else for you to do except relax and open your ears and eyes to the world around you. Give her a call and book her services today!Qtel. (+48) 608 20 40 97 malgorzatamazur.blogspot.com, mamazur@hotmail.com.

MALBORK CASTLE One of the country’s most impressive historical sites that attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. This Teutonic Castle has a lot to to see, including a wonderful recreation of the Castle’s mill, an amber exhibition and an enormous collection of weaponry, armour, flags and goblets that bring each area back to life. Follow a tour group or grab an audioguide and make sure you wear comfy shoes and pack water. Purchase tickets and tours online or at castle itself.Qul. Starościńska 1, www.zamek.malbork.pl. Open 09:0020:00. From October onward open 10:00-15:00. Gardens are open until 16:00. Admission 45/35zł.

RETRO TOUR GDAŃSK Tours of Gdańsk and beyond with licensed guide Eliza Wasiewicz, who will guide/drive you herself in her old-fashioned styled, electric-powered limousine. The car can take up to 7 people and the tours last about 90-minutes. Sights on the tour include the Old Town, the WWII Museum, the Shipyards, and the viewing point on Gradowa Hill, which gives you a great panoramic view of the city. Plenty of photo opportunities (Eliza herself is armed with a Polaroid for nostalgia’s sake). Available for private hire too. Call to arrange a tour!Qtel. (+48) 880 56 24 46, www.retrotour. pl. approx. 150zł per person. 72

venture! d a n w o r u o y Choose

Poland In Your Pocket Shop

iyp.me/polandshop POLAND BY LOCALS - BIKE TOUR Cover all the highlights of the Gdańsk in one day and feel like a local too! Can it be done? On a bike, it certainly can! Poland By Locals Bike Tour departing from the House of Bikes at 10am daily. Your guide ventures with you through the Old Town, over into the regenerating urban areas, up Gradowa Hill for some spectacular views and then down into the Shipyards. All the way, you are regaled with stories and the history of this millenniaold city. You can borrow a bike or bring your own along! Qul. Ogarna 119, Gdańsk, tel. tel. (+48) 537 16 87 75, www. polandbylocals.com. 110zł per person (including bike hire).

GDANSK PANORAMIC WHEEL (AMBER SKY) A London Eye Ferris wheel, which has become one of the city’s major attractions since 2014. Operated under the name ‘Amber Sky’ this big wheel offers 36 8-person cabins (including one VIP cabin with a glass floor which costs 250zł) and travels up to a height of 50m, offering wonderful views of the Old Town. Previously seasonal, the wheel seems to have become a permanent fixture and can currently be found on Ołowianka Island behind the Philharmonic building.QD‑3, Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 666 37 89 80. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. Admission 30zł. 20zł for those under 1.40m.

ROOM OF PLENTY This Escape Room activity is based around the story of Ludwig Plenty, a real-life character who moved to Gdańsk just after WWII and whose illustrious career was something of a cross between Thomas Edison and Indiana Jones! As a group of 2 to 5 people, the puzzles you are required to solve are set around his disappearance in Communist-era Poland in the late 1960s. A fun and exciting team-building excersise, which requires your brain and a bit of additional imagination!QC‑2, ul. Stolarska 6A/7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 350 00 81, www.roomofplenty.pl. Open 09:00-22:00. Prices starting from 179 zł per group. 73

Kids & Families

Hevelianum - an interactive science centre in the Gdansk’s old fort and a real hit with kids! (p.76)

Travelling with children is as fun as it is challenging (or vice versa). Whether it’s keeping your child happy with food and activities, minimising the boredom of sightseeing or encouraging them to keep moving to the next stop, it can sometimes seem like a battle to enjoy your holiday. Fortunately, for families visiting the Tri-city area (Gdańsk, Sopot, Gdynia), there are a variety of options for young minds, whether it’s sunny or rainy. It’s not hard to stimulate the imagination of a child when walking through the streets and arches of Gdańsk Old Town, past the comical drainpipes and mysterious doorways of ul. Mariacka (p.34) and onto the waterfront where the pirate ships are docked (p.43). If you’re visiting in the cooler months, take note of our indoor options (p.75). The baltic coast may be a little cold for a swim, but combined with the beautiful autumn forest paths between Sopot and Gdynia and mobile lody (ice cream) and gofry (waffles) stands make for a memorable experience! Fussy eating habits are a challenge to any parent and foreign cuisine can shake things up even further. But don’t dismay, in Poland there’s pierogi! These kid-approved dumplings can be found almost everywhere, but Mandu in Gdańsk (p.90) and Pierożek in Gdynia (p.105) stand above the others. If a play area and more food options are what you need, check out Winne Gronno in Gdańsk (p.87) or White Marlin in Sopot (p.97) 74

Taking a coffee break does not have to break your kids’ enthusiasm either. In Gdańsk, Przystanek Kawa (p.81) perfectly balance baristic standards with kid menu options and play areas, while Sopot’s Dwie Zmiany takes it a step further with workshops for children (p.100). Meanwhile in Gdynia, ALT Café at Legionów 112 near Centrum Nauki Experyment (p.75), has an entire playroom upstairs!. Before we share our pick of activities, let’s quickly chat about getting around. While car rental offers the most flexible option for families, the most affordable way to get around is, of course, public transport! Families staying in Tri-city for a few days may want to consider purchasing a Tourist Card (p.70), which covers all your public transport needs, including SKM trains between cities, and offers free entry and discounts to a number of sights and restaurants. It is useful to know that children under 4 travel for free on public transport, though you have to buy a 0zł ticket (we kid you not) and you may be requested to provide proof of the child‘s age, so keep passports on you at all times. Remember that there are plenty of bike paths in the cities and beautiful bushland along the coast, especially between Sopot and Gdynia. If you didn’t come prepared for cycling, no sweat! Read up on ‘Tri-city by Bike’ on the next page!

Kids & Families INDOORS JUMPCITY When the weather goes sour, heading indoors is often the only option. Fortunately, Gdańsk is home to Jump City, the largest trampoline park in northern Poland! With 2,000m2 of bouncespace and plenty of different activities, this is fun for all ages. Parents can also enjoy a low-impact cardio workout (believe me it’s a work out) and the kids can bounce off all that excess energy that never seems to go away. Consider scheduling lunch after a visit here! Closest station: Gdańsk Przymorze-Uniwersytet. Also in Gdynia at ul. Tadeusz Wendy 7/9. QAl. Grunwaldzka 355, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 380 80 88, www.gdansk.jumpcity.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. Individual entry 32zł per hour (28zł online). Children up to 7 free with an adult. Group tickets (from 6 people) 28zł per hour (24zł online). Non-slip socks (mandatory) 5zł. CENTRUM NAUKI EXPERYMENT Gdynia is a young, modern Polish city and the Centrum Nauki Experyment was created with families in mind. This glass building, located in the Pomeranian Science and Technology Park, is a brand new science centre filled with interactive exhibits (with English-language options) and presentations for children and parents. Through different sections like Hydroworld, Operation-Human and the Direction of Health (Kierunek Zdrowie), you are encouraged to discover the world around you and how it works by pushing, pulling, jumping and experiencing rather than just simply lookingQQ-8, Al. Zwycięstwa 96/98, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 500 49 94, www.experyment.gdynia.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. 2.09-13.09 museum is closed. Admission 20/12zł. TU PAPUGARNIA Since the cold weather limits a lot of activity options for families visiting Gdańsk, the colourful world of Papugarnia is a welcome alternative to the gloomy Baltic weather outside! This large aviary with various branches and perches is the home of dozens of exotic birds, which you are not just invited to view but also to interact with. For 3zł, you can buy a cup of seeds to make friends with the birds.Qul. Załogowa 17, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 380 55 45, www.papugarniagdansk.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00, 15:00-19:00. Admission 29,90zł/19,90zł, family ticket available, kids under 3 free.

TRI-CITY BY BIKE

An ideal way to explore the Tri-city!

Photo by Kalim

The Tri-city is, geographically-speaking, one of the flattest areas in Poland and, for that reason, it’s incredibly Bike-friendly! From the dedicated red bike lanes on main roads to the gorgeous forest trails between each city, you can almost always get between two points without hopping off and pushing. If you rolled into town without a set of wheels, no problem! Poland By Locals (p.73) and other bicycle rental businesses rent on a daily basis. If it’s a short stretch that you don’t feel like walking, the Tri-city has it’s own scan-and-go bike and scooter system called Mevo, which you can find near most major landmarks. You can also find a handfull of self-service pump/tool stations around the three cities, a great idea though some are in need of repair. For this reason, make sure the compressor works before connecting your tire to the hose, otherwise you will risk deflating it for nothing! Remember that, at the start and end of a full-day’s cycling, your bike can travel for free on the SKM train network. You need to enter the front carriage of the train and place your bike on the rack inside. There are currently no laws in Poland requiring cyclists to wear helmets. Regardless of this, we highly recommend you and your family wear head protection at all times whilst riding a bike. It is required, however, at night to have a light. Much like the laws surrounding drink-driving in Poland, it is illegal to cycle with any alcohol in your system and this is enforced by both the Straż Miejska and the Police. Breath testing can be carried out on anyone suspected of being drunk and on a bike. If you blow over, at the very least your bike will be taken off you. If you are severly intoxicated, you can be detained for up to 24 hours. For this reason, take no risks: Leave the celebratory beers till the end of your cycling trip and then hop on the SKM to return home. To learn more about our pick of bike trails, read more at bit.ly/BestBikeTrailsTricity

Centrum Nauki Experyment in Gdynia

Kids & Families OUTDOORS

The Play Department at the European Solidarity Centre

EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE Though older children may find the Solidarity Centre interesting (p.38), there is an amazing playground section with ballpits, obstacle courses and plenty more to stimulate the 9-and-under age group. The playground is supervised, allowing parents to enjoy the museum without worry, plus a decent restaurant/ café, which can help manage your schedule! QB‑1, Plac Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, www.ecs.gda.pl. GDYNIA AQUARIUM Another ideal place to visit on days when the weather forces you inside. The Gdynia Aquarium is stuffed with over 2,000 creatures and pint-sized guests will delight in seeing each one. In addition to an international marine cast that includes snapping-turtles, electric eels and the Amazon-dwelling giant Arapaima (it’s a really, really big fish), the third floor Baltic Room is devoted to understanding the sea literally right outside the Aquarium’s windows. This includes the largest creature ever caught in the Baltic – a 44kg Cod. The Akwarium Pod Lupą section allows children to examine tiny fish swimming under microscopes. QT-4, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 732 66 01, www.akwarium.gdynia. pl. Open 09:00-19:00. From October open 10:00-17:00. CENTRUM HEVELIANUM Named in honour of Johannes Hevelius, the famed astronomer born in Gdańsk in 1611, the Centrum Hewelianum is a museum with a split-personality. The first half draws upon the building’s history as a Napoleonicera fort, recreating scenes of military life with uniformedmannequins handling muskets and cannons. While some more English translations would be welcomed, your children’s imagination can easily fill in the blanks! The second part of the centre is the science part with 6 different interactive/multimedia exhibits introducing children to physics, maths puzzles and environmental issues in a fun way. Featuring plenty of machines, computers and interactive gadgets, Hevelianum encourages visitors to get hands-on and explains the complexities of science in an idiot-proof way. Mr Hevelius would have been proud! Opening hours for each part tend to change regularly so check their website!Qul. Gradowa 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 742 33 52, www.hevelianum.pl. Open 08:00-16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł. Some exhibitions charge extra. T 76

GDYNIA NAVAL MUSEUM If your children have a concerning obsession with military history, much like I was as a kid, then you should definitely consider making a trip to the Gdynia Naval Museum. Like toys on a messy bedroom floor, the grounds of this openair museum boasts a gigantic collection of guns, cannons, fighter planes and other paraphernalia that is sure to turn your child into an eccentric military buff before the end of your holiday. Less-enthusiastic siblings can enjoy the beach and playground just across the road, so it’s easy to combine both activities in one visit to Gdynia!QS-4, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Tue 10:0019:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł, family ticket 30zł. Tue free. SOPOT FORT Welcome to the oldest living museum in Tri-city. Sopot Fort is a heritage park complete with reenactors, animal feeding and other interactive madness of a bygone era! Expanding from it’s Slavic roots to incorporate Viking, Celtic and other regions of their medieval history program, there are workshops explaining medieval weaponry and technology, combat reenactments as well as folk dancing and music, designed for Polish and foreign children. Worth taking advantage of while the weather is good! Closest station: Sopot Kamienny Potok. QO-4, ul. Haffnera 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 66 00, www.archeologia.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/6zł. Sat free. Y CZARNA PERŁA & GALEON LEW From the waterfront of Gdańsk, sister mock pirate ships, The Czarna Perła and Galeon Lew (The Lion Galleon and The Black Pearl) ferry people back and forth to Westerplatte (p.43), departing close to the Green Gate (Zielona Brama) (p.34). One ship leaves Gdańsk on the hour, every hour from 10:00 (subject to demand) through to 18:00 and returns from Westerplatte at 35 minutes past the hour. From midOctober, only one ship embarks Gdańsk with reduced hours: 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00. QC‑5, Długie Pobrzeże, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 519 14 02 01, www.perlalew.pl. Tickets 35/25zł one-way, 55/35zł return.

Sopot Fort

Photo by Grodzisko w Sopocie

Kids & Families

Stay at the Copernicus Science Centre The price includes: Ì

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You can also take advantage of:

unlimited access to experiments presented on exhibitions 400 unique exhibits professional laboratory activities two theatre stages

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two restaurants a robotic concierge terrace with a view of the Vistula River an atmospheric park gift shop

You can check in at any time from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. www.kopernik.org.pl Organisers

Supporting Partners

Strategic Partner

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which you should be able to find in any Polish restaurant that’s worth its salt (p.90 & 99). Smacznego!

BARSZCZ A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

BIGOS Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is kind of like a ‘cabbage enchilada,’ if we may say so. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served under a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and the ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a true delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman. 78

KOTLET SCHABOWY Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

PIEROGI Poland’s most famous food, you haven’t had pierogi until you’ve had them in PL. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, however, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and they are served literally everywhere.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ŻUREK It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl. 79

Gdańsk Cafés

CAFÉ BAR MON BALZAC Decorated with muted colours, big candles and even bigger sofas, Mon Balzac has a sophisticated edge and, despite its popularity, the attentive staff make frequent forays to ensure your beer never nears empty. While you’ll find most customers using Balzac as a drinkery, and a very good one at that, don’t for one moment think the menu is an afterthought. Meals here include a variety of breakfast options (served 07:30-12:00) and a range of French and International dishes during the day until they close at 24:00. All this in a warm environment where you can enjoy live music on Thu-Sat evenings.QC‑4, ul. Piwna 36/39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 25 25, www.monbalzac.pl. Open 07:30-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-02:00. TE6 CAFE KAMIENICA Drink under the gables and gargoyles of Mariacka in this standout café/bar, a boho space set on two levels. Consisting of strip-wood floors and arty loot this is a place not short on charm and, when the weather is warmer one of the biggest and best terraces in Gdańsk. Winter or summer, there are few more atmospheric places for a coffee or beer.QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 37/39, Gdańsk. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. From November open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. 6 CAFE OFICYNA A café close to the waterfront in Gdańsk Old Town, Oficyna makes good coffee and has pleasant spaces inside and outside. Its interior is cosy, full of books and perfect for 80

an escape during the busier seasons. The seating area out front is furnished with plants, has a view of Brama Chlebnicka (English: Breadseller’s Gate) and is surprisingly calm for its location. Free water is available, whereas most cafes will try to make you buy it bottled. QC‑5, ul. Chlebnicka 24/25, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 606 36 60 35, www.oficynagdanska.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00. T6 DRUKARNIA A smart café on the picturesque ul. Mariacka, which is located in what was once a printing house (hence the name – Drukarnia means just that in English). The look is quite modern and industrial reflecting the premises’ previous incarnation though the reason to visit is the coffee, which is excellent. Take a slice of one of their freshly made cakes as we did and you’ll be set up perfectly for your next leg of sightseeing. Truly one of the best cafés in Tri-city. QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 36, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 08 70 64. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00. 6 KAWIARNIA FILMOWA W STARYM KADRZE A wonderful little cafe in a quiet street found in the shadow of St Mary’s next to the Four Quarters Fountain. While the menu offers a wide range of teas, a choice of generouslysized cups of coffee (unlike most) and brownies and szarlotka (apple cake) with ice cream it’s the place itself that gets our nod. For not only is it wonderfully atmospheric, with old family pictures giving it the feel of an old-time Gdanskian’s living room, it also has a totally unique gimmick. Tucked away in the back is a 21-seater cinema which shows

Gdańsk Cafés films, changing every 2 weeks (check their Facebook page for info). The films are International rather than Polish language films, so you, the foreign visitor, can watch most. Add to that the choice of locally-produced beer and film themed shots and this place gets our vote as one of the most original cafes in town. Love it!QC‑3, ul. Lawendowa 2/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 15 67, www.wstarymkadrze.pl. Open 09:0022:00; Mon 12:00-22:00. U6 LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT An extremely smart cafe on Gdansk’s main street recommendable for a concise but impressive menu of salads and light meals, not to mention an alcohol license as well. The ability to get something to eat that was tasty, light and well-priced would normally be enough of a draw for us, but there are two additional boons here. Firstly, a good selection of breakfast options, which is a pleasant change from the typical roll + cheese+ ham/salmon breakfast offering. Secondly, the cakes. Delicious! Thirdly, Lookier as so damn good that they are turning heads with their restaurant serving international cuisine with style (p.86) QC‑5, ul. Długa 39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 514 92 59 39, www.lookiercafe.pl. Open 09:00-22:00. T6

Lookier Café & Restaurant - another great option for coffee and breakfast!

RETRO CAFE A stylish cafe in the shadow of St. Mary’s Basilica, the Retro should conjure up images of handsome and comfortable furniture with black and white prints of old Gdańsk, rather than the hippie-era collection of colourful plastic furniture you might be expecting. Here you’ll find a comprehensive range of tea, smoothies, chocolate and specially-selected coffees along with their signature item - cakes. Find a delicious range of cheesecakes, tarts and vegan cakes which are all home-baked using high-quality ingredients. They also serve breakfast all day in the form of sandwiches, porridge and a variety of egg formations to name a few. This is the perfect place to take a break during sightseeing in Gdańsk Old Town!QB‑4, ul. Piwna 5/6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 665 21 79 65. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. T6

OUT OF THE CENTRE

Fukafe (p.49) on ul. Wajdeloty in Gdańsk Wrzeszcz

Whilst the centre of activity for all gastronomic and baristic activity is indeed the centre (p.26), we encourage you to adventure out to other districts and experience a different kind of atmosphere away from the rush and into leafier surrounds. Gdańsk Wrzeszcz (p.44) was, for many years, looked over as a squat and nothing more than a bus depot and a train station. That was, until ul. Wajdeloty (p.48) was refurbished and has since become the beating heart of the area, featuring plenty of icecream shops and amazing cafés. Most notably, Fukafe (p.49) delivers not just great coffee but even greater cakes, which you’d be surprised to know are all vegan! KAFE DELFIN Gdańsk Oliwa (p.52) is the definition of leafy, with tree-lined streets and a gorgeous park (p.55). Close to the main southern gate is a little café featuring pictures of movie giants on the walls and old film projectors scattered about. Delfin is the perfect place for tea, coffee and cake upon breaktime from your garden stroll. The fun cinematic theme extends as far as the menus, laid out as a book of film strips. As for food, there is a comprehensive menue of toasties with custom ingredients like feta cheese and olives, dried tomatoes and basil and salami and paprika. Simple, yes, but rather effective!Qul. Opata J. Rybińskiego 17, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 03 44. Open 10:00-22:00. B6 PRZYSTANEK KAWA Gdańsk Brzeźno is a coastal district that we don’t feature in this guide but is certainly worthy of your time. Just 150m from the beach is one of our favourite Tri-city cafés. Przystanek Kawa is a venue that prides itself on two things: quality coffee and being child-friendly! For young families living in the Brzeźno district of Gdańsk, this is a popular place to catch up with friends whilst the young ones enjoy a small playground area out the back. Tasty cakes and pies (also vegan) are available all day until they go out of stock!Qul. Zdrojowa 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 501 39 03 55. Open 09:00-21:00. Opening hours subject to change. T 81

Gdańsk Restaurants

Słony Spichlerz - The international flavours of Gdańsk’s very own restaurant market! (p.87)

The choice of dining continues to improve and there really are some top-class restaurants around now with many offering a ridiculously good quality-to-price ratio if you are visiting from abroad. The figures in brackets denote the checked price of the cheapest and dearest main course on the menu. The opening hours we list are flexible in that these are the hours the venue has told us you can expect the chef to be working. If business is slow people will have no qualms about shutting early. Service in general is not great (it’s often friendly but hopeless) so please reward polite, pleasant and efficient service to encourage others. Please note that with an ever-increasing number of bars and restaurants the following is a list of places, which in our opinion are well worthy of our recommendation (to go to or to stay away from).

SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€ 82

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

For many more reviews check out our website at gdansk.inyourpocket.com. LOCAL Check out the local Gdańsk cuisine in Kubicki (p.90) for a modern take on traditional local dishes. If it’s Pierogi you want then try Mandu (p.90) while Gvara (p.90) is an excellent way to try classic Polish dishes. Gdańsk is a port city, so local also means fish! Check out Fish and Chips (p.84) and Zafishowani (p.85). CHEAP The legendary Bar Pod Rybą (p.90) does an excellent line in baked potatoes served with a wide choice of toppings while we love Naleśnikowo (p.89) for pancakes and crepes. Alternatively, you may be craving something a little more exotic and Piñata (p.89) is affordable Mexican food. If it’s Pizza that you crave for, check out San Marco (p.89). COUPLES Quality food is a good base for a romantic occasion and, if you can couple that with ambience and a pleasant view, you’re already winning! The Mercato (p.92) and Filharmonia (p.86) have both quality menus and views of the Motława canal, as does True Restaurant (p.87) a new player in town who specialise in Surf & Turf. GROUPS For large numbers who can’t decide what to eat, Słony Spichlerz (p.87) is a restaurant market of international cuisines on Granary Island. Sushi is great sharing food and Mito Sushi (p.84) is absolutely worth a visit!

Gdańsk Restaurants AMERICAN HARD ROCK CAFE Gdańsk’s Hard Rock Café sits proudly on the main square and its arrival has been well-received judging by the trade it’s doing. While the trusted menu of burgers, steaks, ribs, wings and cocktails is instantly familiar, the level of service is a welcome bonus and probably one of the reasons that it keeps drawing the visitors in (competitors take note). There’s a stage for live music (check FB for details) and a great terrace for people watching in the good weather. Finish up by making the local authority marketing people happy by purchasing a stack of HRC Gdańsk t-shirts in the adjacent store.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00-24:00. €€€. TUE6

ASIAN BUDDHA LOUNGE The mix of Asian chefs in the kitchen make Buddha one of your best options for authentic Asian cuisine. Choose from a range of Asian dishes, including Indian and Nepalese cuisine while seated in a colourful and cosy room overlooking the main pedestrian street in the centre of the Old Town. A top summer garden, a professional and courteous staff and an adjacent late night cocktail bar keep this place constantly busy.QB‑4, ul. Długa 18/21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44. Open 12:00-24:00. €€. TU CHANG THAI STREET FOOD It’s a thing these days: putting the words ‘street food’ into any new ethnic restaurant’s name and the suggestion seems to be that the results will be cheap and snacky. That’s not the case here. While the place is very casual and the part-open kitchen spills out aromas like a Bangkok street stall, this is a well-priced restaurant rather than snack-on-the-run bar. The menu offers a short list of mains, but you can choose which core ingredient to have with it i.e. some offer a choice between tofu, chicken, pork, duck or beef. The results are very good and we particularly liked the satays and soups to start.QF‑3, ul. Dmowskiego 15, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 889 72 69 36. Open 12:00-22:00. T6 MASALA Don’t let the stained tablecloths put you off! Table manners go out of the window in Masala, a small Indian spot attached to the side of the Madison Mall, and you’ll find locals and foreigners alike scooping up their curries with thick, fluffy portions of naan. The chefs are imported from Delhi, though clearly enjoy working in Gdańsk - watch them chucking the spices in from behind the glass screen. Enjoy Indian, Thai and Chinese dishes from padded velvety sofas while Bollywood tunes keep the atmosphere authentic. QB‑2, ul. Rajska 10 (Madison Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 690 80 40. Open 11:30-22:00. €€. U

BREAKFAST

Pomelo Bistro’s breakfast fresh and wholesome breakfast plate!

BEZ REZERWACJI (BREAKFAST) A small, modern and friendly bistro close to St. Mary’s Basilica in the heart of Gdańsk Old Town with the kind of menu that always has something to offer, whatever the time of day or weather outside. Fresh from a remodelling, this is a cosy place to enjoy a beautifullypresented breakfast from 10:00. They have a few breakfast sets that include coffee or tea, various egg/ ham/bacon combinations and also a frankfurter option. Additionally, their breakfast burger, pancakes and scrambled egg options are lower in price but certainly not lacking in quality.QB‑4, ul. Piwna 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 92, www.bez-rezerwacji.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00. €€. TU6 GOLDWASSER RESTAURANT A choice of 4 breakfasts - English (sausages, bacon, eggs, beans), Polish (scrambled eggs, cottage cheese), Fitness (granola, salmon sandwich, smoothie), French (croissant, honey, jam, cheese) all served with freshly baked bread (they have their own bakery around the corner) overlooking the water in the shadow of the crane.QC‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 09:00-23:00. Breakfast is served from 09:00-12:00 everyday. €€€. T POMELO BISTRO Pomelo is a self-styled acronym of ‘POznaj MEnu LOkalnie’, which roughly translates as ‘Explore the local menu’ and this great little bistro serves up a concise but tasty choice of dishes using local ingredients. The main trick up their sleeve is their breakfast menu, which they serve everyday from 09:00 to 13:00. Big, wholesome plates of fresh vegetables, cured meats and eggs cooked to your liking, complemented with freshly-squeezed juice, lemonades or even just a smoothie for those on an extreme health-kick! On the other end of the spectrum, you can indulge in ‘Pomelówka’, their handmade alcohol. The staff is friendly and professional and its surprisingly quiet location, just a 3-minute walk from the Golden Gate on ul. Ogarna, make this an ideal spot away from the well-trodden ul. Długa tourist route.QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 121/122, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 883 09 09 07. Open 08:30-21:00; Fri, Sat 08:30-22:00. €€. TU6 83

Gdańsk Restaurants MITO SUSHI A street that is on the up finds itself with arguably the city’s best Sushi in Mito. After years of watching one sushi restaurant after another open in the Tri-city, we’d rather lost interest, but a visit to Mito sparked it again. Tastefully decorated. Friendly staff. Good location. Play area for the kids. The major draw though is the Sushi, expertly made, in a huge range of choices with some hot dishes also available. Slightly pricier than others on the market but well worth it.QC‑4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 57 64, www.mitosushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. TUW THAI THAI We’ve long been fans of Thai Thai first in Sopot and then in Warsaw and the team behind this are the real deal. The food is excellent and this is one ethnic restaurant you can be sure won’t tone down the spices for the local palette. The setting for their new venture are the former Royal Stables at the top of ul. Długa and it looks great. We’re not exaggerating when we say we love everything on the menu and our only qualm is that it’s on the expensive side for a meal in Poland. That said, it’s worth it and we thoroughly recommend it. Also at ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot.QB‑4, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 500 41 13 13, www. thaithai.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-22:30. €€€. T

FISH

Go crazy about fish

ul. Tokarska 6, 80-888 Gdańsk (entrance from Długie Pobrzeże)

tel. 661 511 811 www.zafishowani.pl 84

FISH & CHIPS (SMAŻALNIA RYB) NEW Fish & Chips, as straight-forward as the name sounds, deals in the very best of both worlds. Located near the Motława Waterfront, their seafood selection includes Cod and Zander and, most notably, their Salmon is fresh off the hook. Chips are hot, fresh and crunchy and complete a perfected classic meal, which you will enjoy amongst the seaside décor of their restaurant interior. For just a moment, you may forget that you’re in Gdańsk Old Town and, instead, at a beach diner on the Pomeranian coast!QC‑5, ul. Powroźnicza 19/20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 600 34 60 12. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed from end of September until April. €€. U6 TAWERNA Entering Tawerna isn’t unlike walking the gangplank and boarding an 18th century galleon. Fitted with heavy woods, nautical trinkets and paintings of naval engagements Tawerna is the spitting image of Nelson’s cabin. The chefs, trained in France, have cooked for dignitaries like the President of Poland, and while the menu is primarily famed for its seafood there are also some highly-rated Polish dishes on show. The warmer months see them open an enormous waterside terrace. QC‑5, ul. Powroźnicza 19/20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 41 14, www.tawerna.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. TU6

Gdańsk Restaurants ZAFISHOWANI An attractive space overlooking the river and the Sołdek, the unusually named Zafishowani is another hotel in-house restaurant that warrants a mention because of quality and location. The menu focuses on fish, though there are a fair number of non-aquatic dishes as well, with particular attention paid to those ingredients the head chef, Daniel Chrzanowski, can get fresh each day. While the whole menu is mouth-watering our tip is to ask the well-trained and friendly wait staff what they recommend on a daily basis in order to get the most out of the talents in the kitchen. QD‑4, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 661 51 18 11, www. zafishowani.pl. Open 13:00-22:30. €€€. TU6

FRENCH A LA FRANÇAISE Mon dieu! This French-owned bistro, cafe and shop is a fantastic spot on the culinary map as much for its prices as for its wares. In Poland we’ve come to expect the word ‘French’ next to a restaurant to equal ‘beaucoup d’argent’ but not here. The menu is a selection of extremely well-priced, very tasty salads, crépes, desserts, and filled baguettes with soups and daily main course specials for the hungrier among you. A great lunchtime stop, find it a little hidden away, across the river, 3 minutes walk from the Green Gate.QD‑5, ul. Spichrzowa 24/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 765 11 12, www.alafrancaise. pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. Opening hours are subject to change. €€. TU6

INTERNATIONAL BROVARNIA If there’s a better beer in Poland we’d like to know about it, but not before we’ve finished road testing the menu. Indeed, the microbrewery is just one reason to visit. The chow here is top drawer with excellent mains to go with your beer such as traditional Gdansk duck, pork knuckle in beer and a beer bites menu that includes a selection of flavoured lards including spicy pepper, plum, eco cheeseboard and sausages with fried cabbage. The waitstaff are great at their jobs too spinning from table to table laden with beer jugs and plates of food. Head up the stairs to their “First Floor” restaurant for something more private.QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. €€€. TUE6 BROWAR PG4 A mightily impressive building plays host to a twofloored, 300-seater, microbrewery and restaurant. There’s 4 homemade brews on offer including a Pils with the others regularly changing and all are brewed on-site in one of the 8 huge vats you’ll see. There is a very decent menu including an excellent Golonka (pork thigh) and a rather novel range of beer cocktails too. QA‑3, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 668 21 56 08, www.pg4.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00. €€€. U6 85

Gdańsk Restaurants

cafe and restaurant

More than just sweets!

ul. Długa 39 80-828 Gdańsk e-mail: info@lookiercafe.pl tel. + 48 514 925 939 www.lookiercafe.pl Open 8:00 - 22:00 Weekends open until last guest

FILHARMONIA What was once a municipal power plant is now an attractive waterside location for the Gdansk Philharmonic and features this restaurant with a fabulous menu combining the best Polish and Fusion cuisine has to offer with the latest molecular techniques in food science. In good weather take the chance to dine on the rooftop terrace, which comes with its own menu and is home to knockdead views of Gdańsk’s steepled skyline. Alternatively, head indoors to a breathtaking interior of red brick walls and theatrical murals. It’s recommended you make a reservation beforehand.QD‑3, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 83 58, www.restauracjafilharmonia.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. TU LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT Lookier have a hand in just about every area of gastronomy Aside the café and serving four different types of hearty all-day breakfasts, their comprehensive international menu has just about anything you can think of. Whether it’s pasta, soup, salads, club sandwiches, hot snacks, pancakes, fish or something meaty like ribs, chicken breast or beefsteak, you are guaranteed to find something that fits you. Equally as comprehensive is their drinks list from soft drinks to hard liquor and everything in between. In conclusion, you are covered for all three daily meals plus any other moment in between!QC‑5, ul. Długa 39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 514 92 59 39, www. lookiercafe.pl. 86

MAGIEL RESTAURANT For years, there’s been little reason to travel to the south side of the city, but that’s starting to change and places like this are a big reason why. Magiel is a really attractive space, set in a new building overlooking the canal built to seal off Granary Island from the rest of the city. The chefs hold court in a central cooking area where they prepare some exceptional dishes from a menu which is original but solid. New additions include Savoy cabbage leaves stuffed with goose meat, Cold herring soup with potatoes and Pearl barley and boletus mushrooms with spinach and potato noodles in dill sauce. Keep an eye out for the chef’s weekly specials and the live music on Thursday and Saturday evenings.QB‑6, ul. Toruńska 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 90 52, www.restauracjamagiel.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. TUE6 RESTAURACJA GRAND CRU (Q HOTEL RESTAURANT) In a city which is not short of impressive spaces to eat, Grand Cru is worth a mention. Found in the beautifullyremodelled cellars of the Grand Cru Hotel, the results are very impressive and matched by the quality of the chef, staff and wine collection. On the menu, you’ll find an excellent choice of dishes such as Pike-perch fillet and Steak à la Rossini, both of which are beautifully prepared and presented. Keep an eye out also for their specials, which are prepared based on what’s fresh and in season. Fans of ribs, wings and the like should note their American

Gdańsk Restaurants menu available Thursday through Sunday, also featuring the recent addition of a spicy cheddar soup!QD‑3, ul. Rycerska 11/12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 73 03, www. qhotels.pl/grand-cru-gdansk. Open 07:00-11:00, 13:0023:00. €€€. TU6 SŁONY SPICHLERZ - RESTAURANT MARKET Słony Spichlerz (English: Salty Granary) has become the new culinary heart of Gdańsk. Found in the repurposed Deo Plaza building on Granary Island (see p.34), this Restaurant Market concept combines many restaurant keepers under one roof and one space, serving high-quality dishes with much diversity - Italian, Japanese, Thai, Polish, Vegetarian-Vegan cuisine as well as other meats and creative culinary ideas. Just across the canal from Gdańsk Old Town, it has now become a popular meeting place where everyone can eat and drink what they please and at any time of the day. Their bars are open until 1am during the week and 3am on weekends. Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner from all over of the world or drop by during the weekend late-hours for a quality snack!QD‑5, ul. Chmielna 10-11, Gdańsk, www.slonyspichlerz.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. €€. TUE TEKSTYLIA Tekstylia is a bit of a legend in Gdańsk, having originally set up in what had been a textiles store in an old Danzigera shop front just across the road. The current venue is an improvement with more space and furnished with sewing machines. The menu gives you plenty of international options with a slight focus on modern Polish cuisine. The popularity of the former place has carried over and many locals are quick to return. As the day moves on, it becomes not just a great place for dinner but also a friendly bar. Note that the kitchen closes at 22:00 but the place is open until 23:30 during the week and midnight at weekends.QB‑4, ul. Szeroka 11/13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 77 63. Open 09:00-23:30; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. €€. TU6 TRUE RESTAURANT The foundation of True Restaurant’s menu is very much Surf & Turf, combining meat and seafood. Whether it’s a big shared-grill for your table or a single main-course salad, their mission statement is flavour and aesthetic and every dish meets that standard. Their ingredients are high quality and the fish and seafood are freshly-imported, if not locally hooked! The restaurant is a modern development located in the new heart of Gdańsk - on Granary Island (see p.34), the promising new culinary and tourist center of the Old Town. The sunlit and comfortable terrace of the restaurant offers a wonderful view of the Motława River and the surrounding monuments.QD‑5, ul. Chmielna 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 727 60 06 01, www.truerestaurant.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€€. TU WINNE GRONO Winne Grono believes that ‘Wine changes food and food changes wine.’ Needless to say, they are very mindful in what they recommend to complement your dish. Speaking of wine, there are 70 different labels in stock, which means 87

Gdańsk Restaurants they are sure to match your palette. Their menu is an interesting mix of modern European cuisines that changes seasonally. The restaurant, however, gets extra credit for having a children’s playroom and menu, which is perfect for young families not willing to compromise on their level of dining. Qul. Mikołaja Kopernika 17A, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 602 21 88 17, www.winnegrono.com.pl. Open 14:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 13:00-22:00. €€€. TUL6

ITALIAN AL PONTE RISTORANTE An Italian owned and run ristorante unsurprisingly found right next to the modern bridge linking the Olowianka island to the main town. The menu features lots of the Venetian chef’s local cuisine with lots of homemade touches to add extra authenticity. The Spaghetti Alla Scogliera came was very tasty with a generous amount of seafood while the Neapolitan-style pizza comes prepared in an oven imported from the city itself. Regular live music helps to make for an enjoyable evening in the attractive cellar and when the weather’s good, the view from the terrace is an added bonus.QD‑3, ul. Grodzka 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 04 51, www.alponte.pl. Open 09:0023:00. €€. TUE6 RISTORANTE LA CUCINA La Cucina delivers good renditions of Italian classics in a light, bright space. Italian cuisine is done best, in our book at least, when it’s done simply and that is what we like about La Cucina. The pasta was cooked well and the accompanying sauce was tasty while the salad was fresh and not overdressed as can often be the problem. Prices are fair; the setting relaxed and perfect for a quiet meal without any unnecessary formality while the staff, by local standards at least, is friendly and efficient. They take the service that little bit further by bothering to provide the menu in the languages of their largest customer groups - good news if you speak English, German or Norwegian. QC‑4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 44, www.lacucina.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. TU SAN MARCO A friendly Italian eatery on the main street in Gdańsk Old Town which these days is under the direction of a team of Italian chefs but looks and feels like a traditional Gdańskian restaurant with lots of wooden furniture, exposed brickwork and even some old-fashioned costumes. There’s a full Italian menu on offer which features their own homemade pasta, meat dishes and salads but the reason to visit is the authentic pizza prepared by the cheerful staff. We like the Calabrese but you might want to try the Robert Lewandowski pizza, named after the Polish footballer who ordered it when he ate here (tomato, mozzarella, Parma ham, rocket salad and parmesan in case you’re wondering). QB‑4, ul. Długa 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 515 37 00 38, www. sanmarcoristorante.pl. Open 09:00-23:00. €€. TUE 6 88

Gdańsk Restaurants In Ristorante La Cucina you'll find authentic Italian cuisine, wine and dessert, all in a warm atmosphere that feels like home. One out of the BEST Restaurants in Gdańsk according to the 2018 Gault & Millau restaurant guide.

Ristorante La Cucina, ul.Tandeta 1 lok.77 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), tel. +48 58 573 34 44 www.lacucina.pl www.facebook.com/lacucinagdansk Open: Mon - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00 See our restaurants on Google Street View and Google Maps - Menu languages

MEXICAN PIÑATA Another one of those fast food businesses which started off as a food truck and became so popular with their customers that they’ve moved into permanent premises. On offer here are speedily prepared burritos, tacos and quesadillas available with chicken, pulled beef, pork or vegetarian fillings and covered in a sauce where you get to choose on a scale of 10 as to how hot it should be. Poles are becoming more acquainted with spicy food so beware before ordering a full on 10. Very enjoyable. Also at ul. Artura Schopenhauera 1 (K-5) and Galeria Metropolia (F-3).QB‑3, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 660 41 52 85. Open 11:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-22:00. €. 6

MILK BARS BAR FAMILIJNY - KOS Once upon a time, Milk Bars were sterile places with steaming food costing pennies. If that was then, this place is now. It’s huge, taking up 3 or 4 adjoining shop premises and it’s all shiny metal serving counters and exposed brick. The concept though is familiar though markedly better done than we remember of old. High dining this is not, but for what is effectively a 21st century Milk Bar it is not bad at all!QB‑4, ul. Tkacka 21-26, Gdansk, tel. (+48) 512 297 742. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-24:00. Opening Hours are subject to change from October. €.

BAR MLECZNY STĄGIEWNA Milk bars tend to be rather sterile looking places but this modern take on the concept is anything but. Keeping with the Bar Mleczny tradition of cheap prices and simple food, the friendly staff keeps the crowds happy with a great value for money menu. Keep an eye out for the jars of homemade produce to take away.QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 15/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 503 38 14 30. Open 09:00-18:00. €. T6

PANCAKES NALEŚNIKOWO If our mother had let us open up a café at the age of eight, it would have looked exactly like Naleśnikowo. It would probably have the same crepe-centric menu, too, though Naleśnikowo takes it a step further by offering options we couldn’t conceive of. Sure there’s countless pillowy sweet crepes (Oreo biscuit, banana and Nutella! Swoon!) and savoury choices with chorizo, bacon and pickles but why not go for the exotic noodle-laden spaghetti crepe or the pancake lasagne, which also comes with a vegetarian option? The service is quick and attentive and the menu is in English, German and Russian. Drag yourself away from busy ul. Długa and you’ll be in for a treat. We’re pretty sure your inner eight-year-old will thank you as will any real ones with you when they see the children’s menu.QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 125, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 30 82, www. nalesnikowo.com.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. €. TU6 89

Gdańsk Restaurants PIEROGI FAMILIA BISTRO The cuisine is described as Wileńska (English: from Vilnius, Lithuania) and Familia Bistro is another to look east rather than west for its inspiration. We love the pierogi, which comes in different forms: Kibiny (dumplings with crispy pastry) and Manty (steamed dumplings and Kołduny). They have Czanachy, a kind of beef stew and our latest favourite, and a dish of pork ribs marinated in a traditional Lithuanian liqueur sauce. There’s plenty of different soups and other choices in the mains, including fresh fish, all hailing from the family recipe book. This is a great place for a lunchtime snack washed down with a glass of Kwas Chlebowy (Kvass), which is imported from Lithuania.QB‑4, ul. Garbary 2/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 512 92 25 14, www.familiabistro.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. T PIEROGARNIA MANDU They’re only pierogi you might argue, but this lot are clearly doing something incredibly right as finding a table in either of their restaurants can sometimes be a huge challenge. The masses are attracted by the tasty choice of Polish dumplings with a whole host of traditional and unique fillings. The ‘novelty’ is provided by the head-scarfed ladies in the open preparation area making pierogis that taste as good as our grandma’s (although we daren’t tell her that). QB‑3, ul. Elżbietańska 4/8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 00 00, www.pierogarnia-mandu.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00. €. TU6 PIEROGARNIA STARY MŁYN If you want to try Polish cuisine while you’re here, you’ve got to try the pierogi. Stary Mlyn is a good place to try them out thanks to the incredibly wide range of fillings and types on offer. You can get pierogi boiled, fried or baked with sweet or savoury fillings and this lot claim to have a ‘Grandmother’s Certificate’ to prove the authenticity of their recipes. We’ll let you decide but be warned you might be prepared to wait. This place is large particularly when they claim to make all dishes to order. Well worth a visit to find a pierogi to call your own.QC‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 64, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 727 71 14, www.pierogarnie.com. Open 11:03-22:56. €€. T6

POLISH RESTAURACJA GVARA Restauracja Gvara still remains as one of the best restaurants in Gdańsk Old Town. Nested at the base of St. Mary’s Basilica, the city’s most recognisable landmark, it’s location just a block away from the main drag offers a relaxed and picturesque location to enjoy a meal. However, what’s kept them a top recommendation for all these years is the opportunity to enjoy tasty, reasonably-priced Polish cuisine, which comes beautifully presented with a modern twist. The Żurek (Rye Soup) was perfectly matched with the generously-stuffed Pierogi and Pumpkin Sauce. The Beef Gulasz (Goulash) also comes recommended. You can be 90

confident in ordering anything from their breakfast menu (09:00 – 12:00) through to their lunch specials (Mon-Sat, 1200-1800) and main menu at all other times. Dinner can be enjoyed with a glass of wine and complimentary live music on Fridays and Saturdays.QC‑4, ul. Chlebnicka 48/51, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 795 88 92 88, www.restauracjagvara. pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00; Sun 09:0022:00. €€. UE RESTAURACJA RĘKAWICZKA Nested just below the Golden Gate, this café-restaurant offers a pleasant view of ul. Długa as well as a cosy exposed-brick interior, hinting back to the days when this venue operated as a glove factory (Rękawiczka means ‘little glove’ in Polish). Start your meal with pierogi and finish with a blueberry semifreddo, or start your entire day with their à la carte and buffet breakfast (served 07:00-11:00). There is certainly no shortage of selection on the drinks list either! Without a doubt, Rękawiczka is at its best on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, when their house pianist is in to offer some complimentary background music. QB‑4, ul. Długa 84/85, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 793 41 34 33, www.restauracjarekawiczka.pl. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. TE6 SWOJSKI SMAK For one of the best places for traditional Polish food and vodka in town, you’ll need to take a little walk off the tourist trail to this long-established favourite of ours, which covers all the main dishes on a Polish menu and claims to have the widest choice of Polish vodka in the country with over 150 different types. It might not be set in the most picturesque part of town, but if it’s good local food you’re after then you’ll forgive them for that - especially if you’re sleeping in the nearby Ibis or Mercure.QC‑2, ul. Heweliusza 25/27, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 12, www.swojskismak.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T WOZOWNIA GDAŃSKA Take a trip outside of the Old Town to visit one of the most attractive venues in town. Perched up on the hill (Góra Gradowa) overlooking the city is a fortress from the Napoleonic era. Among the beautifully restored brick barracks and buildings is the Wozownia, or Carriage House, which has been transformed into a restaurant. On offer from the concise menu are Polish and Gdańsk favourites such as herring, rye soup (Żurek) and duck. The food is pretty good, while the location, with the viewing area nearby make this a very worthwhile excursion. Head for the large cross on the hill.QA‑1, ul. Gradowa 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 792 20 34 96, www.wozowniagdanska.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. €€. TU6

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GdaĹ&#x201E;sk Restaurants

Open from 12.00 pm to 11.00 pm Targ Rybny 1, GdaĹ&#x201E;sk www.mercatorestaurant.pl +48 58 77 87 442 mercato.gdansk@hilton.com

The best of Spanish cuisine. The best-loved dishes of all the regions, from Seville to Barcelona via Madrid. ul. Tandeta 1 lok. 81 (entrance from ul. Szeroka) tel. +48 58 573 34 11 Open: Mon - Thu 12:00 - 23:00 Fri- Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00 www.facebook.com/patioespanolgdansk www.patioespanol.pl Menu languages

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Gdańsk Restaurants QUICK EATS BAR POD RYBĄ More places now offer filled potatoes but ‘Under the Fish’ continues to serve the best in town in our opinion. For less than €7, diners get a huge roasted potato split open, heaped with anything from salmon to sausage to beans or veggies and then topped with one of seven sauces - You will not walk away hungry! Quite frankly, we have no preferences to fillings here and we’d happily eat them all! The venue itself is cosy enough, has a warm brass bar, plenty of Danzig-era signs and paintings on the wall. Check out their cellar bar below called Jopengasse, which stocks a range of craft beers!QB‑4, ul. Piwna 61/63, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00. €. T6

REGIONAL KUBICKI The oldest remaining restaurant in town dates back to 1918, when it traded as the Cafe International run by Bronisław Kubicki and his family. A breathtaking remodelling sees it combine period pieces like the fireplaces with a modern aesthetic look in which to enjoy Danzig/Gdańsk dishes like delicious Herring following by a Tasty Roast Duck with Red Cabbage. Very impressive from the food to the ambience and excellent service. Well worth a visit.QD‑3, ul. Wartka 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 00 50, www.restauracjakubicki.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. TE6 MERCATO In a word – excellent. The Mercato is the in-house restaurant of the Hilton Gdańsk hotel with a ground floor location, opening out onto a terrace overlooking the river. The service is extremely professional, as you would expect, but it is the food that demands your visit. The regularly-changing menu is wonderfully original and interprets Pomeranian cuisine in new and interesting ways. You can find many unique tastes – like ‘Hot Beard’ soup, boiled lobster with homemade pasta or mandarin mousse with ice cream and ginger foam for dessert. Beautiful at any time of the day, though it’s ideal to come in the late afternoon to watch the sunset over Old Town.QD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 42, www.mercatorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. TU

SPANISH PATIO ESPAÑOL A very attractive looking venue in a new development, which is helping attract people onto the previously quiet ul. Szeroka. With the car parked outside, we were forced to reluctantly skip the wine list, which caught our eye, and settled instead for a selection of Tapas and a Seafood Paella for two, both of which were delicious. The menu features other attractive dishes and a scan of neighbouring tables suggests that we weren’t the only ones to leave 92

happy!QC‑4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 11, www.patioespanol.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. TU

STEAK T-BONE STEAKHOUSE Pricey but well-worth the ‘investment’, especially if you want a return of a tasty steak dinner. We skipped past the choice of starters and soups and straight over the eight burger options to get to the 13 types of beef steak, which form the core of the menu. We picked out a Filet Mignon from a selection that included beef from Poland to as far away as Ireland, Uruguay, Argentina and Australia. We then matched it with steak house chips and grilled vegetables and a Béarnaise sauce from the list of choices, which comes with each steak as part of the price. The steak arrived perfectly medium-rare as ordered and was so tasty that we were literally left smiling at the end. There’s a few places in the old town area for a steak but we’d put this in a recommended top three. Also at N-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 8-10/2, Sopot.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 22/23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 501 10 21 91, www.t-bone.com.pl. Open 13:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. 6

VEGETARIAN GUGA SWEET & SPICY Created by a group of friends who share the belief that ‘you are what you eat’, Guga is literally two places in one: One half offers veggie/vegan dishes heavily inspired by Asian cuisine while next door you’ll find a café flogging cakes and biscuits. The prices were a little pricey (39zł for a bowl of Ramen!) and we found our servings all a bit bland. That being said, we don’t eat as healthily as the owners and it seems to be favourable with health-conscious locals. Breakfast being available everyday until 12:00 is also a plus!QD‑2, ul. Stara Stocznia 2/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 533 27 26 42, www.gugafood.pl. Open 09:30-22:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. €€. TU6 NIEMIĘSNY MUKA BAR Following the success of offering a healthier alternative to the plethora of burger vans with their Muka Food Truck, this lot have set down roots in the less-explored Lower City district, a sign that this place is on the up. The sign over the door is a 70s-style ‘Butchers’ sign (Mięsny) with a ‘Nie’ added. This would suggest an exclusively vegetarian menu but the reality is more than that. There is an excellent choice of falafal, mezze and hummus as well as a vegetarian burger with Halloumi cheese on the Niemięsny part of the menu. But to the delight of us carnivores, there are also some meat options on the Mięsny side of the menu including a delicious Kofta burger. There’s an all-day breakfast and a great choice of wine and beers too meaning this is a vegetarian restaurant which is way more than that.QD‑6, ul. Jaskółcza 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 785 11 75 56. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00. €. T6

GdaĹ&#x201E;sk Restaurants

Sopot Restaurants

Piroman’s prime cuts ready for the grill, p.98

Sopot is known as a beach and party town but also a restaurant district, especially for Italian cuisine! Safe to say, there’s a place for every occasion. If it’s a romantic dinner you’re after, consider Cyrano et Roxane (p.96) for low key trysts or White Marlin (p.98) along the seafront, where you can stroll back to town along the beach. If you want a classy high-rollin’ experience, book a table at Sopot 737 L’Entre Villes (p.97) and time-travel back to the 1920s. One of the best Kashubian restaurants, Polskie Smaki (p.99) lives around here too and should definitely be considered. Big groups may wanna consider taking advantage of the space at Restauracja Ukraineczka (p.100).

ASIAN HASHI SUSHI A really smart-looking sushi restaurant in Sopot Centrum for those who want something either spicy or fishy before heading off to catch a train. This is actually way above what you might expect to find in a Polish railway station (they were recognised by Gault & Millau as one of Poland’s top 100 restaurants in 2017) and is actually a destination in itself, such is the standard of food and the fact that it’s surrounded by other bars and restaurants in the Centrum building. Worth a look. Also find them at ul. Przebendowskich 38, Gdynia and al. Rzeczpospolitej 4, Gdańsk. QN-7, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 37 37, www.hashisushi.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. TU 6 94

MOSHI MOSHI SUSHI An attractive restaurant in the centre of town that delivers a comprehensive choice of excellent Japanese cuisine. The Ebi Supu Soup with Shrimps and Coconut Milk is a really tasty way to start before deciding whether to choose one of their hot dishes, like Tori Teriyaki, or to focus on the Sushi. Speaking of which, the 24-piece Doji gives you a tasty selection of Futomaki, Nigiri and California Sushi that are all superb. This is one of those places where you get the sense the owners are really into what they do rather than just running a restaurant and you’ll enjoy the results. QO-6, ul. Monte Cassino 63/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 785 30 08 00, www.moshimoshisushi.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TU RESTAURACJA PAK CHOI A rather good Chinese restaurant in a tiny venue, just a minute’s walk from the square in Sopot. The décor is elegant and the limited number of tables and above average prices suggest they’re going for quality in food over quantity of customers. While the house specialty ‘Compose Your Own Wok Dish’ is 80zł, we went for the traditional classics on the menu. The Crispy Duck with Szechuan Sauce was as you would expect - crispy and, more importantly, delicious! In future, we’ll certainly aim to pre-order the Peking Duck with 24-hours notice, now that we know how well the rest of the menu is prepared. If it’s Chinese food you crave while in the city, this is the best option in Sopot!QO-6, ul. Morska 4, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 718 20 10, www.restauracjapakchoi. pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. €€€. T6

Sopot Restaurants TANDOOR HOUSE We do like an Indian and we like spicy to mean spicy. There’s clearly a Tandoor oven out back and the Chicken Tikka Masala, a yardstick for any Indian restaurant is very good. The Rogan Josh came with very tender lamb and an appropriately spicy sauce while the naans were delicious and put to good use wiping up the various sauces. Note that each main is priced to include either a naan or a portion of Basmati Rice, so it remains good value.QO-6, ul. Grunwaldzka 8-10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 508 57 57 56. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-23:00. €€. TU6

BURGERS SURF BURGER The burger market is extremely competitive but this lot with their growing chain, a small fleet of food trucks and too-cool-for-school service staff have been at the forefront of the sector’s development. Make your choice of burger, roll and sauce and let them do the rest. Very tasty food with optional sides like Belgian fries, sweet potato fries, mozzarella sticks or nachos. Last but not least, they have an alcohol licence - Happy days!QN-7, ul. Kościuszki 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 883 22 30 50, www.surfburger.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €. U6

CZECH ČESKÝ FILM There are certain similarities to the non-Polish eye between Polish and Czech cuisine and this popular little tavern, set in an ugly block under a strip bar at the top of Monte Cassino, does the region proud. The pork knuckle (Czech: Pečené Koleno / Polish: Golonka) is delicious with soft meat and extremely good value while the Czech favourites of dumplings (knedliky) with goulash are done very well too and there are lashings of Czech beer at very decent prices. By the way, Česky Film (literally meaning Czech Film) is a Polish expression to describe something surreal and incomprehensible.QN-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 17, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 716 16 16, www.czeskasopot.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri 13:0023:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. T6W

FISH BAR PRZYSTAŃ A legend for Poles visiting the coast, this place has built a reputation since it opened in the 90s, operating out of a converted beach-side toilet block. Now you’ll find a huge villa overlooking the fishermen’s dock serving a long line of customers whatever the season. Certainly not as good or as cheap as it once was, this is still the place many people come to enjoy fish and chips, Polski style, and the fish soup here is our favourite. One tip. In summer the hut outside serves the fish soup, a selection of starters and the baked halibut with chips (but not chips by themselves) as well as drinks, which can save you time queuing.QP-9, Al. Wojska Polskiego 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 06 61, www. barprzystan.pl. Open 09:30-23:00. €€. TUW 95

Sopot Restaurants

Cyrano et Roxane WINE BAR & RESTAURANT Wine and cuisine from the south of France

Ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, 81-704 Sopot Tel. +48 660 759 594, cyrano.roxane.pl@gmail.com www.cyrano-roxane.pl Open from 13.00 till 22.00

M15 You’ve lots of options along the beachfront in Sopot, but this is often our favourite thanks in no small part to the great playground adjacent to it on the beach (we’ve got kids). The main reason to visit is the work of award-winning chef Adrian Gabryszak. While there’s great pizza, steak, burgers and tagliatelle it’s their fresh, locally-sourced salt and freshwater fish prepared to traditional recipes with a modern Polish touch that mark it out. Also noteworthy is the number of vegan dishes on the menu. M15 have also recently opened a new spa (p.122).QP-5, ul. Mamuszki 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 720 82 78 27, www.m15.sopot.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-24:00. €€€. TU6 SEAFOOD STATION RESTAURANT Proudly identifying themselves as serving ‘Fresh and Slow Food’, Seafood Station have a choice of 4 breakfast sets ranging from a local Kaszëbë (Kashubian) Breakfast featuring smoked mackerel paste, regional cheese and chives to the full English Breakfast, which includes 2 sausages, 2 bacon, beans, hash brown, tomatoes, mushrooms, black pudding and toast. Also, very popular with customers is the Oysters and Lobster that they serve, which lives up to their proclamation of Freshness! They also offer a choice of three very tasty breakfast hot rolls including bacon, egg and cheese.QN-7, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 523 88 55, www.seafoodstation.pl. Open 09:00-23:00. €€. TU6

FRENCH

Dolce Vita is a boutique delicatessen with bar serving sweet and dry Mediterranean specialities. The choice of delicacies ranges from foie gras to vegan ice cream. Great wine and coffee too. Boutique Delicatessen Dolce Vita Sopot Centrum, ul. Dworcowa 7 tel.: +48 58 3413123 mail: butik@dolcevita.pl www.facebook.com/dolcevitaslodkoiwytrawnie 96

CYRANO ET ROXANE A small nugget of France finds itself in Sopot in this tiny rail side cottage. Owned and run by Marc, a real-live native of Bergerac and his Polish wife Maria, this tiny treasure has an authentic tavern atmosphere, and wines hand-picked to compliment the nibbles and full mains on offer. Try, for instance, the cheese platter (also available to take away), or for something more considerable peruse the daily specials chalked up on the board or concise list of mains (check the latest menu on their website) whose number include a super duck which is slow-cooked over twelve hours and a delicious Crème brûlée. Amongst the regional specialities on offer the foie gras, reputedly made from the owner’s grandfather’s recipe, is a memorable pleasure.QN-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 660 75 95 94, www.cyrano-roxane.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. (3971zł) €€€. TU

GEORGIAN OCNEBA Authentic Georgian cuisine courtesy of an authentic Georgian where you’ll find Czanachi (delicious lamb hotpot with potatoes, mushrooms, eggplant and paprika) and Chinkali, Georgia’s answer to the Polish pierogi. Very good. QO-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 36/5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 26 32 25, www.ocneba.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€. T

Sopot Restaurants

INTERNATIONAL ART DECO One of the most revered dining spaces in the north, and justly so. The menu, tinkered to suit the season, is never anything less than a top notch experience involving modern, adventurous even, takes on Polish and more global cuisine. Wrapping it up nicely is the historic venue itself; impeccably elegant and with views of the pier, beach and bay.QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 61 71, www. sofitelgrandsopot.com. Open 06:30-10:30, 12:30-22:30; Sat, Sun 06:30-11:00, 12:30-22:30. €€€. TU

HOTEL HAFFNER RESTAURANT Head inside the Haffner Hotel to find their inhouse restaurant manned by talented chefs Michał Zawierzeniec and Grzegorz Labuda . The menu offers a selection of tasty and well-priced Mediterranean and Polish dishes including a mushroom soup, pierogi with pulled lamb and a delicious cod fillet on black lentils. Keep an eye out for their Sunday brunch option too. QO-4, ul. Haffnera 59 (Hotel Haffner), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 13, www.hotelhaffner.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€€. TU

BISTRO WALTER A friendly cafe/bar/restaurant on the ground floor of a department store on Monte Cassino with a surprisingly good menu of food as well. There’s a choice of breakfast from early morning (until 13:00) and a concise but impressive selection of mains including tasty salads, pastas and more substantial mains prepared by a team of young chefs who clearly have both talent and imagination. Found on the side of the main street, which catches the morning sun, the garden is perfect for watching the world go by over an early morning coffee (when weather permits). You’ll also find what are probably the largest screens in the city where you can watch the match!QO-6, ul Bohaterów Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 503 09 76 20. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. TU6

SOPOT 737 L’ENTRE VILLES RESTAURANT A truly stunning venue with a menu and service to match. Found in an early 20th-century villa, the place oozes class with a modern look that embraces the historic setting. L’Entre Villes serves as a multi-functional venue with a bistro, glazed winter garden, bar, winiarnia and cigar room on the ground floor as well as a grand room on the first floor, which can be adapted into a series of individual private rooms if required. The reason for your visit is an excellent bistro, which serves beautifully prepared modern Polish cuisine. Prices are higher than many Sopot restaurants but the all-around return for your money is excellent. Highly recommended.QM-8, Al. Niepodległości 737, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 717 37 37, www.entrevilles.pl. Open 12:0023:00. €€€€€. XTU6 97

Sopot Restaurants STEAK

STACJA SOPOT Stacja Sopot resides in one of the city’s neo-classical villas, where owners have successfully developed a restaurant and menu on their own terms without compromising the charm and serenity of its location. A concise and seasonal menu, with new creations added regularly, features soups, plentiful-salads, family-recipe pierogi and east-Asian dishes. The chef avoids pasta, potatoes and other ‘fillers’ in favour of lighter, fresher ingredients, from Kashubian strawberries to Baltic seafood. Don’t worry - the slow food approach in the kitchen won’t affect the speed of service! The wine list and homemade lemonade perfectly capture the nostalga and history of Sopot.QN-7, ul. Jagiełły 3/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 508 78 52 88, www.stacjasopot.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€. T6

PIROMAN STEAK HOUSE Set in a small building on the main Tri-city thoroughfare, Piroman quickly developed a reputation for excellent steaks. Choose from T-Bone, Rib Eye, Tomahawk, New York and Tenderloin all of which cooked perfectly to order with sides such as tasty fries and salads. The secret here seems to be the care taken in the supply of the meat and the owners also act as a butcher with many now using Piroman to pick up cuts of prime steak for home. If you like steak take a trip out there – you’ll not regret it.QM-9, Al. Niepodległości 684, Sopot, tel. (+48) 514 79 02 68. Open 13:00-22:00; Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€€€. T6

WHITE MARLIN With a fabulous beach view and a fancy fish in their name, the classy and finely-detailed boathouse decór inside White Marlin makes you feel like you are about to dine as an elite member of your local sailing club. However, even though I was dressed-down and wearing a Slayer T-Shirt, the friendly and highly-skilled staff still treated me like a king! They didn’t even scowl at the fact that I ordered a cheaper fish dish and sparkling water. By the way, the Battered-Flounder on Tartar and Chunky Fries was absolutely exquisite and very satisfying. Safe to say the bar for food quality has been set very high, so spending even more is sure to have a good return! Aside their obvious strength in seafood, other notable menu entries include duck and Finnish cuisine.QP-7, Al. Wojska Polskiego 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 784 62 92 83, www.whitemarlin.pl. Open 07:30-21:00; Fri, Sat 07:3022:00. €€€. TU6

ITALIAN

Traditional Italian restaurant run with passion by Italian owners.

Ristorante, ul. Polna 70, Sopot tel. +48 793 344 497 Pizzeria, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot tel. +48 531 04 40 04, www.restauracjatesoro.pl 98

TESORO Italian-owned-and-run Tesoro is an Italian restaurant, which has built a stellar reputation among locals and celebs and which is always busy. We’re not going to go over the top about the food because, while we love it, we know others that can’t understand its continued popularity. We love the pizza here and the atmosphere is also welcoming and friendly despite it being so busy. QO-9, ul. Polna 70, Sopot, tel. (+48) 793 34 44 97, www.restauracjatesoro.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. TU TESORO EXPRESS An excellent Italian-owned pizza parlour, where your pizza is accompanied by imported Aperol Spritz, wines, beer, later on coffee or tea and, more often than not, you’re meal is accompanied by a little song from one of the Italian chefs!QN-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 531 04 40 04, www. restauracjatesoro.pl. Open 12:00-21:30; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00. €€. T

Sopot Restaurants TOSCANA RESTAURANT Tucked away in a tiny cottage close to the Southern Park, many espouse this to be the best Italian restaurant in the north, and while the local competition has increased and improved in recent years they may still have a point. The Polish/Italian chef is a master of pasta, while Anna and her staff have perfected the art of spoiling their guests. QO-7, ul. Grunwaldzka 27, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 86 65, www.toscanasopot.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. €€€. TU6

JEWISH BAGAŻOWNIA Found in the beautifully re-modelled luggage room of the original Sopot railway station, this yellow-brick cottage harks back to a bygone age before the steel and glass construction went up around it. The owners have a sterling record running a series of restaurants in Lodz and this shares some of the same themes. The cuisine is traditional PolishJewish and with that, you might be surprised at some of the dishes which you’d not expect to find in a modern Jewish restaurant. Goose, duck and liver are all present for instance, all of which demonstrate the similarities in cuisine forged by centuries of a shared history in Poland. This is a small spot is worth a look if you want to escape the crowds. QN-7, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 516 60 60 60, www.restauracjabagazownia.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. €€. T6

KASHUBIAN RESTAURANT CAFÉ POLSKIE SMAKI A really impressive place to enjoy local cuisine presented with originality and panache. Kashubian cuisine has a wealth of raw materials to work with incorporating, as the region to the west of Gdansk does, everything from sea to lakes to forests and prime farming land. You’ll find Polskie Smaki overlooking the fountain and the pier in Sopot, which is as good a location as any to try a menu which focuses on Kashubian and Polish products. Everything from the ingredients of the dishes to the beer, vodka and even, believe it or not, the wine is locally produced while your table centerpiece of a sunflower is a typical Kashubian decoration and even the tableware comes from a pottery near Koscierzyna. Fish is a cornerstone of a menu which also features duck, pork and beef and our cod, potatoes and fresh vegetables both tasted and looked amazing. The duck pierogi was delicious as was the fruit cocktail. One tip is to take advantage of their summer lunch offer which sees you get a soup and a main course for just 29zl – a price worth paying just to sit and enjoy the view let alone eat the best local cuisine in town. An extremely pleasurable experience with a great terrace, professional staff and most of all delicious and original food - we highly recommend it.QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 60, www.restauracjapolskiesmaki.com. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. UW 99

Sopot Restaurants SOPOT CAFÉS

POLISH KARCZMA IRENA An inn-style restaurant where tourists and locals consume big helpings of hearty Polish food at solid wooden tables surrounded by Halberds, paintings of trolls and even a winged Hussar. Loved by many, the only improvement would be the addition of silver goblets and obliging wenches. A very recommendable local experience.QN‑4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 51 69 10, www. pensjonat-irena.com. Open 13:00-23:00. €€. 6

Outdoor café area at Teatr Boto

CAFÉ ZAŚCIANEK Here’s what cafés used to look like before everyone started copying Starbucks. Tight and intimate, this furnished with pre-war swag, with assorted loot numbering gramophones and chiming clocks. Though a little dark, it really is a lovely place and absolutely free of Sopot’s fashion mag twits. Most importantly, the coffee is quite good and arguably the best option in Sopot!QO-6, ul. Haffnera 3/1a, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 05 43. Open 11:00-22:00; Mon 11:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:0021:00. 6 DOLCE VITA A very impressive looking delicatessen, café and bar with, by Tri-city standards at least, a wide selection of Mediterranean produce such as olive oil, pasta, dairy products, fish and of course coffee and wine. It’s not just a great place to stop off and stock up (it’s handily located close to Sopot station) but it’s a smart place just to stop in and relax over a coffee or ice cream after you’ve perused their wares.QN-7, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 31 23. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. €€. TU6 TEATR BOTO An extremely attractive café/bar and theatre set in a renovated building in a small square literally feet from the main street, Bohaterow Monte Cassino. Boto is a welcome change from new places of late and exudes more the traditional atmosphere of Sopot (artistic, independent) than the more boisterous and commercial atmosphere found on the main street these days. Downstairs is a comfortable and attractive café/bar and terrace while a theatre stage is located upstairs. Check our ‘What’s On’ chapter to see what, if anything, they are putting on that non-Poles might enjoy.QO-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 54B, Sopot, tel. (+48) 600 46 46 19, www.boto.art.pl. Open 15:00-02:00. TE6 100

RESTAURANT NO. 88 Some of the best chefs in the city these days can be found plying their trade in hotels as the competition increases and the major players try to offer that bit extra to their guests. One such example is Restaurant 88, which while technically a part of the 4-star Hotel Sopot, is a really attractive modern space with an excellent staff and a relaxed vibe. The reason for your visit is a menu which blends international cuisine with traditional Polish dishes. The results are delicious, beautifully delivered and good value for what you receive. We enjoyed the Saddle of Lamb although we were extremely tempted by the Cod Sirloin. Highly recommended for serious foodies.QO-3, ul. J.J. Haffnera 88, tel. (+48) 58 882 80 32, www.hotelsopot. eu. Open 13:00-22:00. €€€. TUE

UKRAINIAN RESTAURACJA UKRAINECZKA The last couple of years has seen lots of our Ukrainians neighbours moving to Poland to help the Polish economy and here’s one group helping the Polish waistline. The cuisine is primarily Ukrainian with a bit of Lithuanian mixed in and the staff are all authentic. The food is well-priced and there’s a lot to choose from including Ukrainian borsch, a choice of Draniki (potato style packages) and filling mains like ribs and chicken Kyiv.QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 58 56 76. Open 11:0022:00. €€€. T

VEGETARIAN DWIE ZMIANY Translating literally as ‘Two Shifts’ in English, this place runs simultaneously as a restaurant/café and a bar. They’re also ambitious in incorporating art and (sometimes) live music, so realistically they are multi-tasking with a lot more! This is a magnet for Sopot’s hipster crowd attracted as much by the cool reputation it’s built up as for anything else. Their Dwie Zmiany Pils, one of 7 beers on tap, is made at a brewery in neighbouring Warmia. There’s also cider, prosecco and some good vegetarian food available, including cheap tapas. If you’re doing a crawl of Sopot’s bars, or need a feed, this is one worth stopping off at.QN-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 31, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 380 21 27, www.dwiezmiany.com. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. €€. T6

Sopot Restaurants

SOPOT WHITE MARLIN

Al. Wojska Polskiego 1, Sopot, tel: 784 629 283

www.whitemarlin.pl

WOZOWNIA GDAŃSKA

ul. Gradowa 8, GdaŃsk, tel: 602 173 227

www.wozowniagdanska.pl

GDAŃSK 101

Gdynia Restaurants

Casa Cubeddu - another incredible restaurant and menu by successful local chef and Italian-native Domenico Cubeddu (p.104)

Gdynia arguably has the most interesting restaurants and cafés in the whole of Tri-city. For instance, Sztuczka (p.103) refers to itself as Author’s Cuisine and get’s a lot praise for their menu. Pierożek (p.105) makes some of the best Pierogi in Poland whilst celebrity chef Magda Gessler has her own fish restaurant in town (p.103). Imported from the exotic reaches of the world, check out Malika (p.105) and Pueblo (p.105) big groups should travel the extra distance and experience Casa Cubeddu (p.104), a leafy and spacious Italian restaurant where the owner and his family live and breathe hospitality!

ASIAN GOOD MORNING VIETNAM Located halfway along Gdynia’s main boulevard, this is one of the best options for ethnic eating in the city. Before even talking about food, GMV gets full-points for it’s decór - just the right balance of traditional furnishings plus some flourishes of Vietnamese memorabilia. The menu is reasonably concise and goes just beyond Vietnamese cuisine, incorporating other fixtures from South-East Asia such as Chicken Satay Skewers. Put simply, you are guaranteed to find something you’ll link and prices are pitched in the 20-40zl bracket meaning that there is a constant flow of trade! This restaurant’s biggest plus, however, is the quality of the ingredients with fresh vegetables and meats very much evident in the Beef Phó Soup and the Chicken Green Curry that we ordered. QR-4, ul. Świętojańska 83A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 711 30 30. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. €€. T6 102

HASHI SUSHI A classic-looking Japanese restaurant with the requisite rice paper panels, basic wooden furniture and a large revolving, bar from where Sushi-laiden boats float past diners - a Sushi Train, for those of you who don’t know the concept! Raw fish aside, the menu also features a number of hot courses, including Beef sirloin steak served with baked sweet potato and balsamic matu sauce. Also in Sopot Centrum, next to the train station and al. Rzeczypospolitej 4/149 in Gdańsk. QR-12, ul. Przebendowskich 38, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 710 07 01, www.hashisushi.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. T6 LOLO THAIJOLO Having gone up in the world simply by moving from what looked like little more than a wooden hut into the handsome building next door, this is a really good option on Pl. Kaszubski. The menu offers a great choice of your favourite Thai dishes as well as some delicious combinations of tastes with just the right amount of spice plus Thai beer. If there’s one problem, it’s that the young team in the kitchen are too good at what they do and it’s sometimes a challenge to find a table!QR-3, ul. Jana z Kolna 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 512 64 44 12, www.thaijolo. pl. Open 11:30-22:00; Sun 11:30-20:00. €€. T6 NEON STREETFOOD BAR A very popular Gdynia spot offering Asian-inspired ‘Street Food’ off-street as it were. There’s often no free seats, but the speed of the delivery and the size of the dishes mean you won’t be waiting long. On offer is a range of Bao buns with fillings like grilled chicken or marinated pork (vegan

Gdynia Restaurants and vegetarian also available); homemade Kimchi and mains like chicken wings in chilli. We say mains, but that’s being generous and if you’re hungry we recommend ordering up two or three. In fact think of it as a bar with a decent range of cheap snacks and you won’t go wrong. QR-4, ul. Abrahama 39, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 730 63 00 00. Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-01:00; closed Sun. €. U6

BURGERS 3 BURGER If it’s a simple burger you want, this is the place to head to in Tri-city. A plush interior featuring lots of red fabric seems a bit out of sync with what is ultimately a snack joint but we’ll let them worry about the cleaning bills. For now, we will definitely be re-visiting to try each item of the short menu, all of which look tasty. Our ‘Wild’ burger was delicious and best of all stayed intact until the last mouthful thanks to a bun that was a bit more solid than most. The chips, large chunks of potato with the skins still on, were a little tough but the quality of the burger buys them a pass on that.QR-4, ul. Świętojańska 61, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 782 02 12, www.3burger.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. T

FISH SANTO PORTO MAGDA GESSLER Magda Gessler is Poland’s best-known restauranteur, thanks to her role in Poland’s versions of Masterchef and Kitchen Nightmares. At her Santo Porto venture, the focus is on fish from the Baltic as well as others imported from the Spanish provinces of Galicia and Asturia. It’s worth asking the waitstaff which fish they recommend each day and whether to have it steamed, grilled, fried or baked by the chefs you can see buzzing around in the open kitchen. The menu is first-class made even more enjoyable by very acceptable pricing. Very recommendable and we’re definitely adding it to our list of places to take visiting guests.QR-5, ul. Żołnierzy i Armii Wojska Polskiego 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 888 06 05 55, www.santoporto.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Opening hours are subject to change. €€€€. TU6

exhibition is absolutely recommended.QS-1, ul. Polska 1 (Emigration Museum), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 500 86 30 30, www.mondodivinegre.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:0021:00. €€€. TU RESTAURACJA SZTUCZKA This small, secluded venue (it’s metres from the main street but easy to miss) is an excellent example of the originality that we’ve always admired Gdynia’s restaurant scene for. The cuisine is described as ‘Author’s Cuisine’ which, in this case, means beautifully-presented and very tasty dishes which use lots of familiar ingredients but mix and present them in original ways. We could have ordered anything on the menu but plumped for Flame-Roasted Herring, which was excellent. Additionally, a Sirloin Steak accompanied by a Carrot Gratin took us completely by surprise. With over 100 wines to choose from and a tasting menu (8 dishes for 199zł or 10 dishes for 259zł), we dare you to find food this good at these prices if you’ve come from abroad. QR-4, ul. Abrahama 40 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 24 94, www.sztuczka.com. Open 12:0021:00; Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€€€. TU WILLA LUBICZ Beautifully-prepared food served in an elegant dining room, which is designed to recall the halcyon days of the 1930s when Gdynia was at the cutting-edge of everything in Poland. Set out in the peaceful Orłowo

INTERNATIONAL MONDO DI VINEGRE If you plan to visit the Emigration Museum Exhibition, this is a recommended stop. The seasonal menu is concise and comes under the themed-headings Seas & Oceans, Ponds & Lakes, Land & Islands, Sky (desserts) and Neverland (Kids menu). Feel free to pick and choose as we did, which saw us presented with a Curried Shrimp, Dorada (Bream) baked in Sea salt and one of the tastiest dishes we’ve tried in ages – a fluffy piece of Cod baked in Bacon on Cabbage with Sauce and Ripening Cheese. Views out over the harbour are a bonus and a trip here combined with a visit to the 103

Gdynia Restaurants GDYNIA CAFÉS

district, a couple of minutes walk from a quiet beach and small pier, in the summer you can dine under the stars, while in winter enjoy the warmth of a log-burning fireplace. Well worth a visit if you appreciate a bit of peace and quiet in civilised surroundings over a glass of good wine.QS-11, ul. Orłowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40, www.willalubicz.pl. Open 17:00-22:00. €€. TU

ITALIAN Phenomenally-good coffee at Coffee Shop - Happy People!

BLACK AND WHITE (BLACK & WHITE) A local gem since it opened in 2015, this little café easily one of the best in Gdynia. When you enter Black & White, you can see that these folks love what they do. Owners Basia and Leszek and their talented barista crew are always smiling and this joy is transferred into the coffee they make. If you look on the very top shelf behind the counter, you will see some trophies very modestly stashed away. These are for awards won for latté art and, as you can see in the photo, they responded to my Australian accent with a very nice kangarooccino! Plenty of a equally-delicious cakes too, including vegan options.QR-3, ul. Władysława IV 28, Gdynia. Open 08:30-18:30; Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. 6 COFFEE SHOP - HAPPY PEOPLE Set in a small, exposed-brick hangout, reminiscent of urban east coast USA, this is a new café on Gdynia’s main street and is already acknowledged as being one of the best in town. While you will find a few things to nibble on here (whoever supplies their carrot cake is a baking genius) Happy People are focused on two things - coffee and doing it exceptionally well! Unlike other cafés, which only has one kind of bean in the grinder, the barista will present you with a choice of four! Your bean and roast options are either darker, like Colombia or Burundi, or lighter, like Malawi or India. If you're serious about your coffee, make the trip! You won't be dissapointed.QR-5, ul. Świętojańska 97, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 511 28 29 94. Open 08:30-17:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. 6W TŁOK A plantarium café/restaurant, just off the main street in central Gdynia, Tłok attracts the younger residents in town (I’ll try not to say the H-word!) that have high standards in coffee, and these guys can deliver it! The menu is pretty good as well, serving their own baked goods and snacks. They have a licence and sell natural wines and a great selection of beers. Keep an eye on their Facebook page for film events and exhibitions!QR-4, Józefa Wybickiego 3, Gdynia. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:0019:00; closed Mon. U 104

CASA CUBEDDU Residing in the leafy Orłowo district of Gdynia, Casa Cubeddu has brought the heart and soul of the Italian experience to Tri-city. The Cubeddu Family, originally from the Abruzzo province, are fluent in the language of Italian cuisine: everything from Pizza to Pasta, Tiramisu to genuine Espresso Coffee. They adjust their menu to incorporate seasonal products, ensuring freshness and vitality in every dish. A short walk from Orłowo station, if you aren’t driving, Casa Cubeddu is also an ideal function venue, with a room for over 150 people and a separate space upstairs where special events like baptisms weddings and birthdays can be organised. Retreat from your busy urban centre and come experience Italy in Tricity!QS-12, ul. Spółdzielcza 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 796 60 00 69, www.casacubeddu.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. TUE PASTA MIASTA Having built a strong reputation with their pizza place over in Starowiejska, the talented folks at Czerwony Piec now deal in pasta. Not only do they cook and serve it, they make in-house (see the man making it as you walk in) and the menu has the full range of tasty pasta dishes, which has resulted in another loyal following. A smart space with a great garden out back makes this one of our favourite casual dining spots in Gdynia. As for value, the antipasti starter is only 28zł, so they’re not doing so badly!!QR-4, ul. Świętojańska 46, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 786 12 11 00, www. pastamiasta.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. TU6 SERIO The first thing that struck us was how polite and professional the staff were when we walked in. It didn’t end there. The décor of exposed brick and lots of wood makes it very cosy while the menu is concise with the antipasti, primi and secondi dishes all demanding due diligence. But we came for the pizza, preparedw in a specially built oven imported from Naples. Those expecting the heavy topping of a Pizza Hut style pie might be a little disappointed on first sight but don’t be. Our Salsiccia with home-made sausage was wonderful and surprisingly spicy while the homemade lemonade and dessert made for a great experience. And all for less than 10 Euros.QQ-3, ul. 3 Maja 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 534 58 83 88, www.pizzaserio.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. TU6

Gdynia Restaurants MEXICAN

SCANDINAVIAN

PUEBLO While most Polish attempts at anything ethnic, particularly Mexican, are rubbish, Pueblo bucks the trend by serving top quality burritos, fajitas and nachos. The menu has some new dishes, alongside the favourites and this is also one of the best places for a good cocktail that doesn’t break the bank. The interior follows the standard formula of adobe walls, sombreros and assorted Mexicana, but is always guaranteed to be buzzing. Good service and food make it far more popular than you might imagine, so it is advisable to try to reserve a table at pretty much any time of the week. A good time to visit is during the week between 12:00 and 16:00, when their lunch deals cost from just 25zł.QR-4, ul. Abrahama 56 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 621 60 07, www.restauracjapueblo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. T

GÅRD – TASTE SCANDINAVIAN Set in the Courtyard Marriott Hotel overlooking the quay and museum ships, Gård is an extremely attractive eatery with a menu inspired by dishes from our Scandinavian neighbours just across the water. Choosing one of their soups, such as the Norwegian fish soup, is a good way to start before proceeding to the Salmon with Caviar and a Beurre Noisette sauce. There’s also some typically Polish dishes for those who want to try the local cuisine too, while weekly live music and DJ events make evenings memorable. This is a great spot with a professional staff, separate kids’ menu and surprisingly-reasonable prices considering the location and quality on offer.QS-3, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 15, www.gardtastescandinavian.com. Open for breakfast 06:30-10:30; Sat, Sun 07:00-11:00. Open for lunch and dinner 12:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 12:30-22:00. €€€. TUE

NORTH AFRICAN MALIKA The Maghreb is a region encompassing the land of northwestern Africa and their unique cuisine, a combination of Mediterranean, African and Arabic, has inspired the menu created by a local woman, who has spent a lot of her life in this region. You’ll find soups, salads, couscous and hummus up to a delicious choice of mains, including various tagines of vegetables, meat and fish, cooked in a unique blend of spices and some added fruits.QR-4, ul. Świętojańska 69B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 352 00 08, www.restauracjamalika. pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T6

PANCAKES FANABERIA CREPES & CAFE A summery looking creperie with a breezy, blue design and windows that fall open to allow maximum sun. The fruit cocktails are great, even better when the asphalt is melting, though the real point of this place are the pancakes, hailed as the best in the city.QR-4, ul. Świętojańska 33/35, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 785 78 17 81, www.nalesnikarniafanaberia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. €. T6

PIEROGI PIEROGARNIA PIEROŻEK The portside block in which its located might not be the most attractive but do not let that put you off. Aside the beautifully-decorated interior, this has to be one of the best Pierogarnia we’ve come across anywhere! The Mexican themed pierogi with minced beef, beans and corn were excellent but friends also rave about the Ruskie (cheese), mozzarella version and the fruit options on offer. Recommended. Also at Skwer Kościuszki 15.QS-4,, Al. Jana Pawła II 11A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 95 67. Open 11:00-20:00. From October open 11:00-19:00. €. T6

VEGETARIAN FALLA NEW Gdynia’s Falla at their new location, just a few doors up from the old one! Vegans, vegetarians and fans of the almighty falafel are obliged to make the trip here during a visit to Gdynia! This small restaurant, recently-moved and downsized from their old location on the same street, is regularly filled by a cross-section of Tri-city residents drawn by the excellent reviews Falla have been receiving. Though only a small range on the menu, everything served keeps their following loyal. The Fatima’s Hand tasting dish is a great way to sample a bit of everything. However, if you want to be well-fed, go for one of the wraps. The Hemp Wrap includes a bit of pickled-beetroot, which perfectly complements their signature green-falafel (sadly, no mind-altering experiences took place!) Other wraps incorporate non-middle-eastern ingredients such as slavic pickled-cucumber and korean kimchi (pickled sweet-spicy cabbage). All of the veggie bowls come with pita bread seasoned with za’atar, just incase you need a little extra crunch.QR-5, ul. I Armii Wojska Polskiego 12, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 790 44 41 25. Open 12:00-21:00. €€. TU6 VEGAN BURGER BAR/ CURRY HOUSE NEW Until recently, this place was known as ‘i Krowa Cała’ (English: ..and the cow whole), which was a reference to a Polish saying ‘Wilk syty i owca cała’ which, in English, translates as ‘The wolf is full and the sheep is whole (unharmed)’. While the new name may not sound as clever, their all-vegan menu has now expanded from fast food (panini, tortillas, burgers, fries and a dairy-free zapiekanki) to incorporating a ‘curry house’ section, which draws much inspiration from Southern Indian cuisine. Everything remains as tasty and satisfying as always and we still adore their Soczewica (lentil) burger with mustard sauce. QQ-3, ul. Dworcowa 11, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 665 78 20 25, www.watkamchu.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. €. U6 105

Oktoberfest in Tri-city!

Gdańsk Beer Harvest Festival - Brovarnia’s own version of Oktoberfest drawing on colourful northern Polish traditions!

Though Poland is typically associated with Wódka (Vodka), the Germanic history of Pomerania has had a considerable influence over the region’s love of Beer. As far back as the early part of the 16th century, there is estimated to have been over 400 breweries in the city. This was the city’s golden age of a rich brewing tradition with one of its most famous exponents over the centuries being the astronomer Johannes Hevelius. While he is most famous for his celestial discoveries, it must be remembered he paid the bills for many years by brewing, among others, the Jopen beer. Today’s ul. Piwna (Eng: Beer Street) was called Jopengasse for centuries and the Hevelius family were just one of the hundreds of brewery families in the Gdańsk area. By the end of the 19th century, the numbers of breweries had dwindled to just a couple of dozen, though one exception was the development of the Danziger Aktien Bierbrauerei (Known locally as the ‘Old Brewery’) in Wrzeszcz (p.44). In the interwar period, the brewery dominated the landscape of Wrzeszcz and is mentioned by Günter Grass (p.46) in the third of the Danzig Trilogy, Dog Years. Following WWII (p.40) and the subsequent period of Communism, Poles preferred, for traditional and economic reasons, to socialise at home rather than in a bar and to do so with vodka (p.107). When we first started publishing guides in Poland back in the 1990s, we admit that we had a very low opinion of Polish beer. Althoughconsumption had only just begun to increase and was still rather unfashionable – vodka was still the tipple of choice. The level of beer consumption had begun to climb during the 106

nineties as the large international brewing groups snaffled up Polish breweries and invested heavily in capacity and equipment. Tyskie, Zywiec and Lech dominated the market along with the fashionable foreign brands like Heineken and Carlsberg. Things only started to look up for beer aficionados with the launch of the city’s first microbrewery at Brovarnia (p.108) in 2008. At last, there was a choice of light and dark beers and the novelty of the in-house brewing process and the quality of the beers were a bit of a landmark moment. Over the next few years previously unheard of bottled beers began appearing in bars around the city from all over Poland. Piwnica Rajców (p.112), the 14th-century beer cellar of the Town Hall was re-imagined around this time by a family brewery from nearby Warmia. Then along came a completely different looking and tasting crop of beers with smartly designed labels but with contents to match. Local heroes AleBrowar, originating from nearby Lębork introduced many eccentric characters AKA beers on tap Check out their bars in Gdynia (p.118) and Sopot (p.114). More recentrly, Browar PG4 (p.85) have entered the scene and are currently holding their own! A certain level of class has been injected into the local scene. No.5 in Sopot (p.115) not only have the biggest range on tap, but also a schmick premesis to deliver it. Cathead Multitap (p.109) on the Motława canal in Gdańsk Old Town would normally be a spot for elitist winer-diners but is now beer territory. The choice in terms of quality and quantity hasn’t been as good since, dare we say, the time of Hevelius himself!

Oktoberfest in Tri-city! WHERE TO CATCH OKTOBERFEST? Although a Bavarian tradition, Oktoberfest resonates in Tricity because of its shared-Germanic history as well as the tradition of brewing that has existed here for centuries. That being said, you should turn your attention to our brewersin-arms and take note of what putting on this October. Brovarnia (p.108) is once again inviting all lovers of the golden drink to the inauguration of the 11th Gdańsk Beer Harvest Festival, referring to the grand hop feasts of old Gdańsk. This unique, annual event has already permanently entered the calendar of cultural events in Tri-City, restoring forgotten flavours, traditions and customs to the city and its inhabitants. There will also be an opportunity to taste a special harvest beer brewed for this occasion in accordance with recipes from over 500 years ago! As every year, the banquet menu will include delicious specialties of regional Gdańskian and Bavarian cuisine. There will also be delicious pork knuckles marinated in brewed dark beer, farm ducks with hand-made potato dumplings, or delicious sourdough soup with natural sourdough. As tradition dictates, you will be able to eat Nuremberg sausages with freshly baked fragrant pretzels, or delicious dumplings with chanterelles or stuffing from geese bred in the Kashubian village specially for the event. The feast will be accompanied by live music, dances and beer competitions. The unquestioned attraction of the first harvest festival evening will be Polish actor Jerzy Kryszak’s cabaret performance. This is a month-long affair and will last until October 27, giving you many opportunities to feast together with fresh beer, delicious food and feast live music! Browar PG4 (p.85) will be running their own Oktoberfest until October 13, which include a special Bavarianinspired menu to be featured in a live cooking show every friday. They’re also putting on live music every weekend and there’ll be plenty of competitions with prizes to be won. Beer fanatics should get excited for the opportunity of joining a specialised tour of the PG4 brewery with head brewer Johannes (sadly no relation to the astrobrewer).

POLISH ALCOHOL Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their primary resource, the Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas! GOLDWASSER A celebrated Gdańsk tradition since 1598, Goldwasser is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in the world, Goldwasser’s secret recipe contains some 20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint. The addition of gold leaf seems to have been an example of middle-aged marketing. Who’d have thought it?? KRUPNIK Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. NALEWKA A somewhat confusing term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs, but which typically denotes aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices, with an alcohol content near the 40% mark. A national speciality, many restaurants and bars make their own nalewki, and almost every Polish family has its own nalewka specialist with a basement laboratory. Don’t pass on the chance to try some! WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry flavoured variety. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in public. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest that straddles the border (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle ‘floral’ taste. Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending which part of PL you’re in!

Browar PG4’s beer and pretzel combo!

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Gdańsk Nightlife

Piwnica Rajców - a brewery in the cellar of Artus Court! (p.112)

There was a time when Gdansk’s nightlife seemed a bit limited but that’s changing. While Sopot is still recognised as the Tri-city’s party town (p.114) there are more than enough good bars and the odd club which will keep you in the old town. That said Sopot is the centre of Tri-city with most of the action centred around the main drag, Monte Cassino where most clubs will apply a cover charge expect to pay 10-30zł to get into the better ones. Choices in Gdynia (p.118) have really improved of late and while most of the nightlife is concentrated near the sea around Al. Jana Pawła and Skwer Kościuszki, a wander around the area in the middle of O/P-2 on our map can be very rewarding.

BUDDHA LOUNGE One of the few decent pre-club spots in the Old Town with a midnight blue design and some velvety seats. A great (seasonal) terrace on the main street is a great place to sit back with a beer while the food (see restaurants) is some of the best ethnic cuisine in the city. A cunning piece of design also means that the bar is smoking which makes it unique for the centre of town. Friendly staff, late opening hours and a laid back atmosphere make this worth a stop on your way around the old town.QB‑4, ul. Długa 18/21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44. Open 11:00-24:00. U

BARS & PUBS

CAFÉ ABSINTHE An old-favourite of ours and after all these years we’re still not entirely sure why. A fairly basic bar in a corner of the theatre building on Targ Weglowy it does have a great selection of draft and bottled beers, a DJ booth and a dancefloor - that’s it in a nutshell. But the fact is it works and it’s been working for years. The loyal crowd is a mix of people from all over the place who love a good night plus the lack of neighbours here mean that the party goes on long into the morning (unlike in the main part of town). Take a look at the opening hours if you don’t believe us. We encourage you to make the most of this beloved fixture of Gdańsk as we've been informed that the establishment will be closing at the end of the year!QB‑4, Targ Węglowy (Teatr Wybrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 37 84. Open 15:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-06:00. U

BROVARNIA Quite possibly our favourite microbrewery in Poland, which is by no means the empty award you might think. The beers – including an award winning dark beer are brewed on-site – are faultless, while the smoking ban does its bit to really exaggerate the pungent smell of malt and hops. Found in a restored granary building, this pub features stout wooden fittings, black and white pics of dockside Danzig, and small little hatches that allow beams of sunlight to slant inside. Even better, if your head goes boom after test-driving their beer menu then just check into the excellent Hotel Gdańsk upstairs.QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. TUE 6 108

Gdańsk Nightlife CAFE FERBER Space-age toilets and a fine selection of board games are what attract us to the very red Cafe Ferber, which is at once both a daytime ladies-who-lunch type cafe and a rather saucy late-night drinking den. The terrace is one of the best people-watching spots in Gdańsk weather permitting - while the picture behind the bar one of the most startling. Also at ul. Bema 1, Sopot (M-4).QB‑4, ul. Długa 77/78, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 791 01 00 05, www.ferber.pl. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00; Sun 09:00-24:00. CAFE LAMUS Hipster alert – this cafe/bar set up in an old shop screams 1970s down to the heavily patterned wallpaper that we’re sure carries the same design as a dress our gran used to wear. The main reason for visiting, if not to admire the barman’s impressive Freddie Mercury-style moustache and sideburns, is the choice of bottled Polish beers, which is excellent. Pop yourself into the corner during the day with a book and the hours will fly by while in the evening the place fills out to the early hours with people set on having a good time. One of our favourite finds of recent times, its position now strengthened (not weakened note) by the opening of two neighbouring bars which have made the corner of ul. Straganiarska and Lawendowa one of the trendiest places in the city.QC‑3, ul. Lawendowa 8 (entrance from ul. Straganiarska), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 691 97 40. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. 6 CATHEAD MULTITAP An excellent multi-tap bar with a slightly British pub-style atmosphere and ideally-located, just around the corner from the main square. As for beer, your choices currently stand at 28 taps and over 90 different bottled beers, which covers the full spectrum of real ales. For Cathead, this seems to be a true labour of love and the choice of draft beers we’ve faced changes each time we’ve visited, which has added to the attraction. There’s regular live music and tasty bar snacks but best of all is the opportunity to enjoy a drink while sitting out on the terrace overlooking the Motława river Very good!QC‑5, ul. Powroźnicza 19/20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 572 50 42 12. Open 14:00-23:45; Fri, Sat 13:0002:00; Sun 13:00-23:45. Irregular open hours. Check facebook for details. E6 CRAFT COCKTAILS An excellent cocktail bar with the feel of a discreet, private drinking club thanks to the comfortable seating, lots of dark woods and low lighting. The cocktail menu is extensive and well-priced, so you can enjoy a quiet evening away from the chaos found in many bars in the old town. The bar staff are well-drilled at their art and they claim to filter their water with each cocktail being accompanied by a glass of it chilled to, they say, protect you from the hangover a night here is likely to induce.QC‑4, ul. Szeroka 48/49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 509 82 28 42. Open 18:00-02:00; Mon 18:0001:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00. 6 109

Gdańsk Nightlife LIVE MUSIC IN THE DOCKS

B90 in Gdańsk Shipyards

As a major city in Poland, Gdańsk is always on the tour route of many major and up-and-coming artists. They come from within Poland, next door from Ukraine, Belarus, across the water from Scandinavia and from the furthest corners of the world! The shipyards, though mostly still in use, had a number of derelict spaces that, in recent years, have been bought and repurposed into venues for live music and other arts and cultural events. Nearest Station: Gdańsk Stocznia B90 A venue that has stripped the building down and cleaned it up to create a great industrial space for concerts. Featuring two stages, there is room for up to 1,500 people and their roster features middleweight Polish and International artists.Qul. Doki 1, Gdańsk, tel. 533 116 381, www.b90.pl. Open during events only. PROTOKULTURA There’s going off the beaten track and then there’s Protokultura. Cunningly-hidden in a huge brick warehouse in the middle of the shipyards, this industrial venue opens sporadically to play host to some truly wacky concerts, shows and other subcultural events. A raucous Balkan New Year party under extreme bass conditions had us converted early on so, if you’re on the lookout for some alternative fun and madness.Qul. Niterów 29B, Gdańsk, www.protokultura.pl. Open Wed 20:00-04:00; Thu 20:00-01:00; Fri 21:00-05:00; Sat 15:00-08:00; Sun 15:00-22:00; closed Mon, Tue. XU6 WYDZIAŁ REMONTOWY A refit of the former shipyard office building next to the famous Gate #2 of the Gdansk (former Lenin) Shipyard has seen the communist-era memorabilia hit the skip to be replaced by a clean, somewhat boring look. But looks can be deceptive and it’s in the blacked out, back room where you’ll want be if you’re into live music featuring electric guitars and ramped out speakers. It’s not big which just adds to the atmosphere.QB‑1, Pl. Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 882 06 60 11. Open 14:00-24:00; closed Sun. E 110

F°32 FAHRENHEIT BAR We wouldn’t normally list a hotel bar, but when that hotel bar is as cool as F°32, we’ll make the exception. Why? Well, how about ringside views of the river, a locally-produced beer and a laid-back, smart casual atmosphere with a great choice of cocktails, all of which makes for one of Gdańsk’s classier evenings.QD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 43, www.hiltongdansk.pl. Open 10:0001:00. U FLISAK 76 While cocktails are very much in vogue in Gdańsk, this award-winning bar is worth seeking out. Found a short block away from the main square, Flisak is a popular, subterranean bar frequented by a friendly crowd who tend to set not follow local fashion trends. Some of the concoctions and names are wonderful and it’s well worth making this a stop on your way round the town - there’s a couple of beers to choose from too if you’re not in the mood for a cocktail.QC‑5, ul. Chlebnicka 9/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 509 99 48 54. Open 18:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:0002:00. 6 HARD ROCK CAFE Hard Rock are known for the food, cocktails and rock memorabilia but the best ones we’ve been in are the ones who remember they got into this game originally because of music. And when we say music we of course mean rock music. There’s a small stage for large performances, a decent sound system and a prime location making this a popular stop. Check out their Facebook page for what’s on.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00-24:00. UE6 HIGH 5 Hitting the fifth floor bar of the Hilton isn’t unlike walking on-set of a Ralph Lauren ad. This place is sheer class, with a wood-deck terrace offering rooftop views of Gdańsk and the Motława Canal from white wicker loungers - this isn’t just any old outside seating! Don’t be surprised to find hotel guests shuffling around in snow coloured dressing gowns, they’re fresh from dipping in the rooftop pool. Surprisingly, somewhat, prices are kept at an affordable level, and there’s a small glass-encased bar for colder evenings.QD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 50, www. hiltongdansk.pl. Open 16:00-23:00. U INK ABOVE Take the lift up to the 8th-floor of the Puro Hotel on Granary Island where you’ll find a small but well-stocked bar from which to choose from a drinks list which features a range of locally brewed beers, creative cocktails and a strong choice of wines and spirits. The reason for visiting is so you can relax on their enclosed terrace and gaze out over the marina and the development on Granary Island to the glorious old town just across the water.QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 563 50 45, www. purohotel.pl/en/gdansk. Open 17:00-01:00. U6

Gdańsk Nightlife JOPENGASSE A great subterranean bar, which is a labyrinth of nooks and crannies spread over three levels. The name pays homage to the former name of ul. Piwna, which was taken from the beer brewed by the family of astronomer Johannes Hevelius. The Jopengasse Pub is part of the legacy of this old brewing district and you can enjoy a range of craft beers while sitting at tables, which resemble museum display cases. There’s lots of Danzig memorabilia and you can also order food at the Bar Pod Rybą (p.90) baked potato restaurant upstairs. If you want to visit old Danzig this is as good a place as any, as while much above ground level has been rebuilt, these cellars are original!QB‑4, ul. Piwna 63, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 691 54 73, www.jopengassepub.pl. Open 16:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00-24:00. Open until the last client leaves!. E JÓZEF K. One of our favourite places in Gdańsk, this cult cafe/ bar is riddled with random art and retro furnishings, old books, coloured lamps, antique trinkets and impossible objects - though it looks thrown together, it’s the kind of boho shambles chic that takes precise care, and they’ve nailed it. Welcoming all comers, the friendly staff and artsy atmosphere attract a devoted, diverse and civilised crowd. This is the kind of place you get comfy in and simply abandon the rest of your planned bar crawl. Why would you leave?QB‑4, ul. Piwna 1/2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 572 16 15 10, www.jozefk.pl. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-04:00.

BAR POD RYBĄ A place which since  has been the king of the delicious baked potato and the delicious salad in Tri-city…

Gdańsk, ul. Piwna 61/63 (near the Arsenal) tel. + 48 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba.pl

LAWENDOWA 8 A converted corner shop in what’s become Gdansk’s Hipster Central. You might ask why on first entering - a design incorporating some leftover black paint, a bar, some furniture nicked off a scrap heap and what looked like a 1980s Space Invader machine hardly scream interior design award nominee. We’re guessing the crowds that pour out onto the street are drawn here by the choice of locallybrewed Ales, which include Wing of Hop and Rowing Jack and are reminiscent of British ales in colour and taste. The rest seem to be drawn here to hang out in what people have dubbed ‘L-Osiem’.QC‑3, ul. Lawendowa 8 (entrance from ul. Straganiarska), tel. (+48) 58 691 97 40. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00. U6 MINISTERSTWO ŚLEDZIA I WÓDKI The latest in Snacks and Shots style bars to hit Gdańsk, this one is part of a huge chain who clearly have discovered a winning formula. The place has been very popular from the moment it launched and the regulars are clearly drawn to the lively atmosphere, the 80s homage to the PRL (Polish People’s Republic) in terms of decor, music and low prices. The bar food is also typical of the same period - pork in jelly, herring, bread and lard and pickles, bigos and bogracz (goulash). We recommend you try some, since it will help you survive your intake of chilled vodka. With snacks from 8-12zł and drinks at 4zl a piece, an evening here can get enjoyably messy!QB‑3, ul. Targ Drzewny 3/7, Gdansk, tel. (+48) 795 85 11 10, www.msiw.eu. Open 14:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-05:00. U6

The history of places is created by unforgettable people tel. 58 691 54 73 www.jopengassepub.pl ul. Piwna 63 Gdańsk (in the basement of the legendary Bar Pod Rybą)

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Gdańsk Nightlife

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DRINKING AND GAMING!

PIWNICA RAJCÓW Piwnica Rajcow is the Polish name for what was once the city’s Ratskeller, the cellar of the Town Hall. One thing which make Gdansk’s Ratskeller remarkable is that it’s not in the basement of the Town Hall (Rathaus or Ratusz) but instead in the cellars of Dwór Artusa (Artus Court) and you can access it via the doorway next to the Neptune fountain. The place itself is remarkable with a labyrinth of large and small rooms which have been beautifully remodelled. The major draw is the beer which you will see being brewed in huge vats in the main bar area by the owners, a familyowned brewery from the Warmia region of Poland. There is a very good and well-priced menu as well, making this a perfect spot for those who enjoy that bierkeller experience, and you’ll also find a number of screens which are used to show sporting events.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 789 44 46 50, www.piwnicarajcowgdansk.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. T6 PUB POLSKIE KINO As the name suggests, the bar is themed on Polish cinema, though if you’re visiting from abroad you probably won’t get any of the references. Don’t panic. Buy your neighbours a couple of shots of Nalewki (fruit or herb-infused spirits) and, within no time, at all you’ll be up to speed on Wajda, Kieślowski and all the Polish comic-actors depicted on the wall. Popular, cheap and friendly, they also offer a range of great local craft-beers, including Złote Lwy and Żywe.QC‑4, ul. Szeroka 97, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 506 40 77 18. Open 15:0001:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. B6 WIŚNIEWSKI Upon entering this establishment, you may for a moment think that you’ve entered a chemist in the 19th-century. This is bar dealing in Wiśniówka. What is Wiśniówka? It’s cherry-infused vodka, not to be confused with Nalewki though it looks like wine and it’s still rather potent! Read more about the difference on p.107. This is an establishment for drinking it and a very popular one at that, although you can also buy some to take away, if you’re a real fan.QC‑4, ul. Piwna 22, Gdansk, tel. (+48) 607 83 28 44, www.wisniewski.ltd. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. U6

WINE BARS CYBERMACHINA Whilst some people drink and dance on weekends, others prefer to drink and game! Cybermachina are a chain of bars that have gaming consoles and arcade machines set up and ready to play plus a huge pile of well-maintained board games with choices that go way beyond classics like Monopoly and Scrabble (those are rather boring compared to what’s on the market these days!).QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 500 54 47 47, www.cybermachina.pl. Open 16:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. U6 112

WINE BAR LITERACKA Set in one of the chocolate box houses on the wonderful ul. Mariacka (p.30), this is a cosy three level bar with a comprehensive excellent selection of wine. Then there’s the menu so that you have another reason to visit. The wild boar tenderloin is a recommended dish, while the salad creations are recommended for those who want a lighter meal but not a plain one. There are over 100 hand-picked wines available of which you can try about 40 by the glass. If you can, dine out on the terrace to enjoy one of the country’s most magical streets!QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 50/52, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 500 43 14 51, www.literacka.gda.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€€. 6

Gdańsk Nightlife CLUBS BUNKIER KLUBOGALERIA Jaw-dropping. On ul. Olejarna stands a six-storey, reenforced concrete cube built as an air-raid shelter, bunker and anti-aircraft battery by the Germans during WWII. It now operates as one of the most visually stunning clubs and live music venues in the country. Get past the rather large, black-suited chaps on the door and you’ll be met with the original corridors flanked by 1.2 metre thick walls which lead into a labyrinth of bars, dancefloors, seating areas and some of the most fantastic toilets we’ve ever seen. Each of the 4 levels is different with our favourite being the caged seating featuring military bunks and, for some reason, an electric chair on level 3! The bars are well-stocked and manned by friendly staff; prices are surprisingly low and the mix of original features (lighting, exposed pipes) and artistic touches will have you reaching regularly for your camera phone. Once you’ve finished looking around you’ll find it’s not a bad club either.QC‑3, ul. Olejarna 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 530 91 77 88, www.bunkierclub.pl. Open 17:00-01:00; Thu 17:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00; closed Mon. XE

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT A sign that a city is on the up in the tourism market has to be the appearance of strip clubs. That’s not to say Gdansk didn’t have any strip joints before the increase in visitors, but in recent times clubs have opened in much more prominent city centre locations and their‘marketing’efforts have become much more aggressive. It is now impossible as a man, without the company of a woman, to walk along the main street, ul. Dluga. in the evening without being approached with a flyer. This is a problem affecting most major Polish cities and the local governments and law enforcement seem unable to stop it. While we do not advise against visiting any of the strip clubs in Gdansk, we would recommend dealing only in cash to avoid any chance of misunderstandings over what should and shouldn’t be charged to your credit card. In recent years various strip clubs have been accused by customers of card fraud but in every case they have been found not guilty by the courts. If you’re looking for a strip club in town you’ll not have to search too far and all we’ll say is keep your wits about you, go easy on the Polish spirits and enjoy the show. Gdansk can ‘proudly’ boast a choice of strip clubs in the heart of its beautiful and historic old-town and for those less observant, the club has a group of young women who patrol the streets of the city from late afternoon onwards, ready to pounce on any man not visibly with a woman who determinedly try to convince you to visit their club.

The industrial designs of Bunkier (because we weren’t brave enough to put a photo of the bathrooms;).

MIASTO ANIOŁÓW A restaurant by day, by night it’s a club and the music tends to be fairly mainstream. However, this is a cool space with plenty of seats and a minimal capital city vibe. Many clubs in Gdańsk attract a crowd of ‘just left school’ types, so to find a post-teen crowd doing their moves on the dancefloor is a welcome surprise, although some of the chaps are rather on the large side (if you know what we mean). Regardless, this is as fun as it gets in the Old Town!QC‑5, ul. Chmielna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 768 58 31, www.miastoaniolow. com.pl. Open 13:00-21:00; Thu 13:00-02:00; Fri 13:0004:00; Sat 13:00-05:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. UW PARLAMENT Arguably the most popular club in old town, this is where the ‘go hard’ crowd tend to gravitate. While it's not our scene, it may well be yours!QB‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 13 65, www.parlament.com.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00-05:00. XU

We find the whole thing, not just tacky, but really annoying. Don’t misunderstand - we’re familiar enough with this branch of the entertainment business and indeed won a court case in Poland some years back when the owner didn’t like our description of his employees as looking like the bulimic victims of a sun-bed incident. What gets us is that these women pester visitors to death, a situation made worse by the smaller crowds out of season. Despite the constant harassment, local law enforcement are powerless to do anything about it and so expect to be bothered to within an inch of your life if you are a man/men going for a stroll through the old town in the evening. We’re still considering the idea of dressing up in a pair of tight shorts and propositioning single women on the street to come and watch our friends take their clothes off. We are interested to see how the police might react to that. You’ll find details of the current clubs on our website with reviews. Our advice is use these businesses on your guard; check the price of everything you purchase and use cash this will avoid any unnecessary misunderstandings. 113

Sopot Nightlife

AleBrowar in Sopot - A success story in local brewing and buzzing with activity in during seasons!

Sopot is the party town in Tri-city and there’s something for just about everyone. If you’re looking to have a big night, lay your foundations witth cheap drinks the Crooked House (p.116) before venturing out to the dance-floor at Sfinks700 or Heaven and Hell (p.116). However, you may be looking for quality over quantity, in which case you should grab a table at Ale Browar or No.5 (p.115) and explore the craft-beer market. Prefer wine (and jazz)? We have something for that (p.117). Those looking for an alternative experience, 3 Siostry and Atelier (p.116) are worth a look.

BARS & PUBS 3 SIOSTRY (3 SISTERS) A local favourite and, as the name suggests, a cafe/bar/club run by 3 sisters, owners no doubt of the dozens of shoes nailed to the ceiling. These ladies know how to run a bar and the loyal clientele keep coming back to cram onto the tiny floor to dance the night away to classics from across the decades. A great spot to spend the evening where the opportunity to interact with the locals seems to be part of the design and the crowd is a bit older than you will find in the clubs in the Crooked House (p.116) for instance. For a bit of extra local flavour, ask Beata or Ola for a shot of the house specialty, homemade strawberry-flavoured Nalewka (p.107).QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 00 00. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:0005:00. U6 114

ALEBROWAR AleBrowar is a popular local craft-brewery based in nearby Lębork and their reputation is travelling quickest by word of mouth. They combine Polish street graphics with American-style microbrewing and this bar in Sopot is their third in Poland. Localy, they are already drawing beer-lovers who used to travel much further for a taste of paradise. They have alot of different bottled beers, each one with its own character, flavour and texture, with 13 select brews on-tap. This particular bar also does some great pizzas, which you can either order in or take away (same with the bottled-beer). Right now, I can’t think of a better combination!QN-6, ul. Podjazd 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 515 49 33 34, www.alebrowar.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00. 6 AVANGARDA The attractive, wood and metal décor and the, by Polish standards, long bar make this a welcoming place to enjoy a beer! They have 60 bottled beers from different regional breweries plus a further 6 on tap and a decent little food menu, which includes pierogi. What more could you ask for? Classic pop videos (oldies but goodies) and football matches are broadcast on the venue’s big screen. Live music is on offer at the small stage area. Friendly, relaxed and a short walk from the train station makes this an easy meet-up for you and your friends!QN-6, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 32 23 00. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-03:00. UE6

Sopot Nightlife BAR 512 The flagship bar of The Sheraton looks and feels every bit as new as the mothership it was born to. Set around a big square, bar 512 is a hip space where booze flows courtesy of expert staff not averse to mixing one of the better mojitos around.QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10 (Sheraton Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 60, www.sheratonsopot.pl. Open 08:00-24:00. UW KOLEJNA KOLEJKA Essentially translated as ‘the next round of drinks’, KolejNa Kolejka is a fancy drinking spot in the Sopot Centrum bar strip. With beautiful lighting design and vines wrapping around the wooden décor, even the most plain-looking patrons will look rather interesting when they impulsively snap a selfie on the premesis. There are so many drinks stocked on the elaborate back wall that bar staff need to use a ladder to chase up your request! There is a small kitchen that can whip up a number of dishes during the week, however only snacks are available on weekends.QO-6, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 536 32 26 22, www.kolejnakolejka.pl. Open 14:00-03:00; Thu, Fri 14:00-05:00; Sat 12:00-05:00; Sun 12:00-03:00. UE6W LE BAR Sweep through the lobby of the Sofitel Grand Hotel (p.60) to reach a drinking space seemingly built for deal-clinching drinks. This is as pricey as drinking in the city gets but it’s worth it just to experience the atmosphere of what was the premier pre-war resort hotel on the Baltic. There’s a wonderful private garden in which to sit back and enjoy the view over the pier and beach and try to imagine the great (and not at all great) names that have passed through this bar - photographs on the walls help with that. You’ll find regular live music on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays too.QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 95, www. sofitelgrandsopot.com. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-01:00. UE NO.5 Sitting at the top of Monciak, No. 5 proudly boasts the largest selection of craft beer in Tricity, with over 20 taps of carefully-selected Polish and international brews. While you would expect a mob of rowdy clientele with so much potent-quality amber on-tap, the venue promotes a relaxed, friendly, music-inspired atmosphere in the comfort of high 70s furniture. The menu is largely in the style of Californian diner cuisine with plenty of vegan options and some experimental Tex Mex - “How ‘bout ‘dem Korean Tacos! “ The live music/stand-up roster is always quality and reliable for a night out.QN-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 5/U2, Sopot, www.no5.ontap.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. 6

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com 115

Sopot Nightlife CROOKED HOUSE

Get your night going at Zła Kobieta

The Crooked in the building’s name refers to the architecture, not to how most of the clientele look as they leave, although it could. Of course the novelty of partying in such a weird building should appeal to many. You can knock back shots in exchange for a handful of coins downstairs, sip cocktails with a goodlooking crowd or dance the night away while dancers swing above your head on a trapeze on the upper levels. NA DRUGĄ NÓŻKĘ Na Drugą Nóżkę (English: For the other leg) is the Polish equivalent of the phrase ‘one for the road’. Indeed, every limb can be accounted for, as this is cheap and cheerful drinking! They have Tyskie on tap for 6zł and a more wide-ranging choice of cheap eats including burgers and tartare. For something different, ask for one of their homemade flavoured nalewki (fruit or herb-infused vodka). Potential clientele will be happy to know that there is also a big screen where some major football (or soccer) matches are broadcast, so look them up on Facebook and see what they’ve commited to! If your team loses, no bother. The bar will will be waiting for you regardless. QO-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 535 99 89 85. Open 16:00-04:30; Mon, Tue, Sun 16:00-03:30. U ZŁA KOBIETA A great looking pre-club spot found up the stairs in the Crooked House. The cocktails come prepared by pleasant English-speaking staff and while this is a great place for pre-club drinks you can also find yourself trapped as the crowd kick off on the small dancefloor. DJ Events are a big part of the program, with some Latin and Jazz musicians are occasionally thrown into the mix. Check out their website for details. Who knows, you may be content to remain inside the Crooked House all night! QO-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 606 85 39 30, www.zlakobieta.com. Open 21:00-05:00. X 116

TAPAS DE RUCOLA This casual tapas bar has developed into one of Sopot’s most fashionable destinations. Serving an array of Andalusiainspired and authentic small tasting dishes, all for 12zł each, a friendly mix of customers nibble away at chorizo sausages and Serrano ham while slugging down Spanish wines and the excellent, local Złote Lwy (Golden Lions) on draft. With a colourful interior of imitation-Picasso mural art and a carefree atmosphere, Tapas really packs out after siesta, particularly on weekends when the party lasts long into the morning. Make sure to try their homemade ‘pear’ spirit (Gruszkówka) which is potent and the mutton pierogi.QO-6, ul. Pułaskiego 15/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 55 01, www.tapassopot.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. 6 WHISKEY ON THE ROCKS An extremely smart bar/restaurant in the Sopot Centrum development. There’s a strong Jack Daniel’s presence and the décor is a reflection of the brand – lots of blacks and browns, but don’t let that put you off. The food, in particular, is very good despite being a bit pricey by Sopot standards, and our ribs were finger-lickin’ good! The rest of the menu is equally as appetising with steaks, burgers, chicken wings and the like and a well-stocked bar and comfortable seating make this worth seeking out. You can also catch a live rock band there on Fridays and Saturdays 21:00-24:00.QN-7, ul. Dworcowa 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 691 98 82, www.whiskeyontherocks.pl. Open 12:0024:00. €€€€. UE6

CLUBS ATELIER Ever had the desire to swim naked in the Baltic after a night getting trollied to punk anthems, 80s remixes and Euroshit dance din? Then step into Atelier, a madhouse venue where good times are as certain as the hangover that follows. The toilets look like they’ve been hit by a typhoon, but that does nothing to stop the least preened up crowd in Sopot having a right messy knees-up and enjoying life to the max. They’ve actually had a recent refurb, but would you notice?QP-5, Al. Mamuszki 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 89 06, www.klubatelier.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-05:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. U HAH SOPOT (HEAVEN AND HELL) Short for Heaven and Hell, the HAH clubbing chain is big on inclusivity; their clubs are gay-friendly and host occasional drag shows and pride parade after-parties. There’s plenty of room for hetero revellers as well, and their karaoke nights and hot latino music parties have a universal appeal.QP-4, Al. Mamuszki 21 (next to beach entrance no. 13), Sopot, tel. (+48) 786 17 73 97, www.sopot.hah.com.pl. Open Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00 only. U SFINKS700 Sfinks700 is one of the iconic names on the Polish entertainment scene and one of the country’s first post-communism clubs. Opening in 1990, it has since

Sopot Nightlife hosted some of the most famous concerts, club nights and exhibitions of the last 20 years. The club has been completely renovated with the addition of a top-quality sound system, air-conditioning and new performance area and the decor is now a mismatch of bright red walls, exposed brick, disco balls and an elaborately decorated ceiling above the main hall. Hit it on different nights to find anything from concerts to DJ-hosted parties and you should check out the events section on their facebook for upcoming events.QO-5, Al. Mamuszki 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 602 35 16 39, www.sfinks700.com. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00 only. XUE SPATIF One of the enduring legends of Sopot, though utterly different from the Spatif of legend. The design is still the same – eclectic art and an avant garde style – the only thing that’s changed is the people who visit. What was once a den of beatniks and thesps has morphed into, dare we say it, the sort of place where plastic comes first; be it plastic boobs or the platinum card. Much of the crowd is markedly ‘older’ and we’re sure we’ve seen a few of those who used to talk revolution now relaxing here after a hard week in Brussels. It remains, surprisingly, hugely popular and as such has a strict door policy - whether you make it in or not, watch for the stairs.QO-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 54, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 26 83, www.spatif. sopot.pl. Open 18:00-02:00. From July open 12:00-02:00. TORWAR JAZZ & WINO The people at Torwar, found on the 4th floor of the department store on the edge of the square are looking to recreate a little of old Sopot with the opening of this live jazz venue. The décor is extremely smart and it offers some great views over the square and sea. Jazz concerts take place everyday during the summer season of July and August and on Friday and Saturday evenings out of season. The biggest pull though is their summer terrace found on the roof of the building. They also offer a great menu as well as a well-stocked bar and this is very definitely a recommended spot if you like a more relaxed setting and some good wine and jazz. Find it by taking the lift in the department store or enter via the Kava cafe on the ground floor.QO-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 61, Sopot. UEW

Tricity’s largest craft beer bar

20 taps of craft beer American and Mexican comfort food Locally roasted coffee facebook/No.5sopot

Monte Cassino 5, Sopot

LATE NIGHT EATS ŚLIWKA W KOMPOT In Polish, the expression ‘Śliwka w Kompot’ (Eng: Plum in Compote) is very similar to the English expression ‘(to be) in a pickle’. Indeed the late night munchies always a dilemna and quite often food is hard to find. Fortunately, there is this place! Although they officially close their doors at 22:45, you’ll find them serving a ‘night menu’ of filled pizza dough rolls until the small hours if there’s demand. There’s no need for a late-night visit to McDonalds in Sopot!QO-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 42, Sopot. Open 12:00-03:00; Fri 12:00-04:30; Sat 11:00-04:30; Sun 11:00-03:00. €€€. TU

WTEDY A lot of Sopot’s late-night options can be best be described as ‘tacky’ so it’s encouraging to see a place that is prepared to do more than cheap alcohol. To find Wtedy (Then) head round the back and down the steps of the villa close to the main entrance of the train station. It’s unadvertised presence lends it a ‘in-the-know’ kind of feel while the crowd is a little older than on the ‘strip’ (but not as older as the dollies at the coat check). A vinyl-spinning DJ, excellent bar, separate vodka bar and limited seating mean the place can’t help but dance. Make sure to tip the little person working the bar generously.QN-7, ul. Kościuszki 16, Sopot. Open Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00 only. X 117

Gdynia Nightlife

Ale Browar at ul. Starowiejska 40B in Gdynia - Flanked by two casual restaurants, there is always a friendly congregation on this block!

Locally, it’s often said that ‘You work in Gdańsk, party in Sopot and sleep in Gdynia’. Though it may be designated as the more residential end of the Tri-city, keep in mind that Gdynia is also a young city and so nightlife is still a prominent part of life here. Ale Browar is a local success story in craft-beer whereas The Docker’s Inn (p.119) specialises in brews from the British Isles. If you want to check out the alternative music scene, Desdemona is where you should be. If you dig the whole communist era thing, pay a visit to Klubokawiarnia (p.119).

BARS & PUBS ALEBROWAR The first retail venture of a young Polish brewing company of the same name, this is a great spot on one of Gdynia’s less trodden streets. A wide range of tasty beer is on offer from 13 taps and plenty more in bottles, each coming with a name that could have been stolen from a racehorse. Although pricey by local standards, you get what you pay for here with delicious beers served fresh. As an added bonus the excellent Czerwony Piec pizza joint is next door and that and the street seating have made this a very popular place of late. Well-worth an evening of your time.QQ-3, ul. Starowiejska 40B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 535 20 70 67, www.alebrowar.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:0002:00. 6 118

CAFÉ DESDEMONA Saddle up to the long copper-plated bar, or else take to one of the tables to drink under the green glow of a banker’s light. Always humming with activity, Desdemona is a way of life for the budding playwrights and in-between-job actors who ponce around looking profound. Down the spiral staircase, however, the live music set-up pulls a decent crowd on most days of the week, featuring artists performing everything guitar-and-drum-orientated: metal, rock, punk rock and jazz and beyond. We love it!QR-4, ul. Abrahama 37, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 888 72 54 80. Open 11:00-01:00; Fri 11:00-03:00; Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 16:00-24:00. XU6 DONEGAL As authentic an Irish pub in terms of appearance as you’re likely to find in Europe, Donegal is a long-term labour of love for its owners who clearly appreciate there’s more to an Irish pub than simply getting some beers in and sticking an ‘Irish Pub’ sign up outside. There’s a healthy selection of whiskey and a none-too shabby collection of whisky as well. The Guinness is as good a pint as you’ll get in Poland and a warm (sometimes very warm) atmosphere makes it the kind of place you can pass a few hours gently tipping the pints and sipping the whiskies. They put on live music, have some local craft beers too and there’s also a couple of screens to catch the match.QQ-3, ul. Zgoda 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 46 23. Open 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:0003:00; Sun 18:00-01:00.

Gdynia Nightlife KLUBOKAWIARNIA Head through the gate to the right of ul. Bema 19, down the steps at the back, give the bell a ring and hopefully you’ll be ushered inside this cosy crimson bunker-bar, replete with its array of peculiarities, many from communist-era Poland. Get a drink from the bar before dropping into one of the mismatched bits of aged furniture to admire the sheer splendour of this cave-like drinking den whilst 1980s Polish cartoons play non-stop on the big screen. A more dresseddown crowd than in most clubs in Gdynia with late opening hours and spinning alt-rock and old-school hip hop classics make this place hard to beat...if they let you in that is!QR-5, ul. Bema 19, Gdynia. Open 18:00-04:00. X MEFISTO Zodiac signs, gargoyles and burning candles lend this spot a vaguely Gothic (and very horror) undertone. Aside the campness, which you’ll enjoy if you have a sense of humour, beer prices are reasonable and staff and clientel are undead and friendly-enough. Keep an eye out for the hidden steps!QR-3, ul. Władysława IV 30a, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 506 13 58 58, www.mefisto.com.pl. Open 18:0024:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00. X THE DOCKER’S INN A more British style boozer in the Tri-city, you will not find. The bar serves many draft beers, including some local Kashubian brews, as well as classics from the British Isles such as Guinness. Like any good English pub, you can catch any major football game on the big screen. Furthermore, they are now serving pub meals and a few Slavic dishes from the kitchen, which will save you from missing a goal over dinner! It’s a friendly, welcoming place with a steady flow of customers. Don’t be surprised if you bump into an English-speaking foreign resident! QR-3, ul. Świętojańska 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 710 67 02. Open 08:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00; Sun 09:00-24:00. Ui

LIVE MUSIC BLUES CLUB If you’re a younger traveller and reading this, you may be visualising that this Blues Club will be full of washedup middle-aged guys and tobacco smoke. While this may have once been the case, thanks to weekly openmic nights (Blues on Tuesdays, Jazz on Wednesdays) and younger bar-staff (male and female), the demographics are now much more diverse and, thanks to some recent refurbishment, the venue is much more inviting. It certainly delivers on the blues-front: everything, from the colour of the walls to the bands that take to the stage, is blues-related. Their Thursday and Sunday concert schedule of blues, roots and ‘other’ fusion artists come from all over the world to play here. QR-2, ul. Portowa 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 621 09 43, www.bluesclub.pl. Open 11:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 11:0003:00. E 119

Spa & Wellness

SOPOT: BALTIC SPA RESORT Back in the early 19th century, when Frenchman Jean Georg Haffner returned to Sopot, his aim was to build a spa and health resort in the wonderful place he’d discovered while marching east as a doctor with Napoleon’s army some years before. In 1823, he opened the first Bath House, which offered a range of treatments and baths. The first Resort House (Salon or a Kursaal) was opened in 1824, changing rooms were added on the beach, and a small pier was built. Haffner died in 1830, but his legacy didn’t. Stewardship passed into the hands of the Böttcher family who added another storey to the Resort House, featuring 12 modest hotel rooms, while Haffner himself entered folklore, today revered as the father of modern Sopot. It’s for this reason you’ll find the town bristling with hotels, streets and monuments in his honour. When Sopot, or Zoppot as it was then known, was connected by rail to Berlin in 1870, the resort’s popularity grew. The existing buildings were pulled down and a new complex, in effect the second Resort House was built. Opened in 1881, this symmetrically fronted building with its two towers faced the sea, featured a magnificent vestibule opening onto the restaurants and a ballroom, and more hotel rooms were added. The square (Kurgarten) separated the Resort House from the beach and spacious walking galleries were added in 1895. There was a concert 120

arena located in the northern wing of the Resort Square (recreated next to the Sheraton) and the area was crowned by a magnificent fountain in 1903. Still the resort grew and in 1903 and 1907 new complexes of baths were added and the pier extended by 160m in 1910. The Second Resort House, barely 30 years old, and despite renovations, was no longer suitable for the demands placed upon it, and in 1909 it was levelled to the ground and replaced by a third. Gdansk architect Carl Weber designed and built the new Resort House which was constructed in record time between September 30th 1909 and 15th June 1910.

The third Resort House c. 1912

Spa & Wellness The third Resort House was like nothing that had come before, containing snazzy mod-cons like boilers, cold storage rooms and a telephone switchboard. Pride of place went to a 540 sq/m concert hall known as the Red Room. Good times were seen as the key to success, and as such the Resort Square side was given over to restaurants with a combined capacity for over 2,000 guests. The square itself was extended from 6,000 to 9,000m2, and an 80-room hotel built. In 1919, with Sopot about to become part of the Free City of Danzig, the famous casino was created. This was to become the focal point of Sopot, and the inter-war period saw the town experience its golden age. Even though the spa town lost its shine under communism, people from all over the country came here to take in the fresh air - walking along the beach path is particularly popular for the exposure to iodine that it supposedly gives you. In fact children from the industrial south are still sent here by their schools each year. Today Sopot’s beachfront Resort House is in its fourth incarnation. The sparkling development was opened in 2009 and hasn’t foregone the past – the rotunda is a faithful reproduction, while the fountain is a restored original.

TRI-CITY SPAS Today the Tri-city offers a wide choice of spa and beauty treatments in some wonderfully elegant and thoroughly modern settings, and it’s even popular for visitors to pop over for 2-3 nights to visit the spa, masseuse, hairdresser and beauty salons before dressing up and heading out for dinner and drinks. With that demand you’ll find most hotels now have spa and stay breaks in their range of offers and here we’ve tried to highlight the best and the most memorable. GRAND SPA Find a wide range of Sopot spa treatments in the luxurious surroundings of Sopot’s signature Grand Hotel, overlooking the gardens and beach. Also available are a hammam, sauna, gym and swimming pool.QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 85, www.sofitelgrandsopot.com. Swimming pool and fitness centre open 07:00-22:00. SPA open 09:00-22:00. HOTEL HAFFNER SPA Located in the plush Haffner Hotel, a range of spa and beauty treatments are available for guests and non-guests. Included in their offer are massages, facials from 190zł, as well as a range of treatments including Babor, Alessandro, Menard and Mesoestetic. Haffner also has a pool, weight room and sauna available.QO-4, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 53, www.hotelhaffner.pl. Swimming pool open 07:00-22:00. Treatments 07:00-22:00 by prior reservation. 121

Spa & Wellness M15 SAUNSPOT If you fancy a sauna without having to pay for the whole spa & beauty package, then this might be for you. These wooden cabins on the beach next to the M15 restaurant (p.96) are open from October until mid-May and you can join the ‘open’ sauna for as little as 45zł for 90 minutes. Alternatively, you and up to 10 friends can rent out the Sauna 4U from 400zł for 90 minutes if you like your privacy. Sweat it out with views of the sea and then cool off by running straight into the frigid Baltic if you’re crazy enough. It doesn’t get much better.QP5, Al. Mamuszki 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 730 93 00 88. Open 08:00-21:30; Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00. Entrance every 90mins from 08:00. 90mins 35-40zł; 3hrs 60-65zł. PRANA SPA BY THAO THAI This spa by Thao Thai embraces the philosophy and practices of traditional Ayurvedic medicine, specialising in orientalAyurveda, Balinese and Thai massages. Shirodhara, hot stone massage and classical Thai acupressure are also among the unique treatments for the body and mind that can be experienced in Prana Spa.QC‑4, ul. Szeroka 84/85, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 507 45 03 00, www.pranaspa.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

SOMETHING IN THE WATER Sopot’s fame as a spa resort is built upon the waters of the St. Adalbert’s Spring. High in bromide and iodine, with large quantities of magnesium potassium and potassium iodine, when watered down the spring water is drinkable and used to replenish medical deficiencies and is recommended for gastrointestinal disorders. The waters are also recommended for bathing and for those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism. You can taste it by popping into the café on the 3rd floor of the Sopot Tourism Association’s point in the Dom Zdrojowy (Pl. Zdrojowy 2, N-6), where the staff will happily explain how it works and fill you a cup direct from the spring. You’ll also notice the glass-domed ‘Inhalation Mushrooms’ in Sopot’s Southern Park (p.58-59). The water flowing up here comes straight from the spring and lengthy inhalation sessions under the canopy of their iodine-filled air is recommended for a whole host of breathing complaints. 122

THAO THAI A well regarded Thai massage parlour close to the Old Town of Gdańsk. The massage therapists hail from Thailand and are well trained and experienced. There are a number of treatments on offer including traditional Thai Massage. You’ll also find them at ul. Spichrzowa 21, and their Prana Spa at ul. Szeroka 84/85.QC‑4, ul. Szeroka 86/87, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 666 12 01 50, www.thaothai.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. URBAN SPA The Urban Spa at The Wellness, the Hilton Gdansk’s standout feature, is the unique sun deck on the 5th floor, which offers you tremendous views over the Motława River and the heart of the Old Town. Get rid of your stress with luxury treatments, a dip in their rooftop pool and in their steam and dry saunas. They now have a number of happy hours offers, so check the website to try treatments in special prices.QD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 72 55, www.hiltongdansk.pl. Open 07:00-22:00. CDFw THE SPA AT SHERATON SOPOT The finest spa in Sopot, possibly Poland as well. Featuring select Ella Bache treatments pleasures that await include a dazzling swimming pool, Finnish sauna, steam room, a comprehensive range of massage therapies as well as facial and body treatments, manicure and pedicure. There’s also a pool and fitness room.QO-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 00, www.sheratonsopotspa.pl. Open 07:00-22:00.

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Spa & Wellness

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THAO THAI

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OPEN: MONDAY-SUNDAY 12.00-22.00 FIND US ON TRIPADVISOR! 123

Tri-city Shopping

Galeria Bałtycka - the Tri-city’s largest shopping mall (p.131).

With some of Europe’s newest and most modern shopping malls (p.130), and competitive prices relative to the rest of Europe, the Tri-city has become a veritable shopping destination in recent years. While the Tri-city’s shopping malls offer all the most recognised international brand names and franchises, throughout this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to highlight unique local businesses, as well as propose some concrete gift ideas for what you should pick up in Poland. While most of the businesses in this section are located in Gdańsk, check the address line carefully to be sure. For more local gifts ideas and direct buying opportunities, check out the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. In 2019, trade has only been allowed on the last Sunday of each month, and from 2020 shops will be closed every Sunday. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be open: Sept. 29 | Oct. 27 | Nov. 24 | Dec. 15, 22, 29 124

AMBER & JEWELLERY Baltic Gold, as it is often referred to, has been gathered and worked in the Gdańsk area for over 6,000 years and is one of the major contributors to the city’s wealth over the centuries. The sight of locals (both amateur and professional) combing the beaches looking for pieces which have washed up, particularly after a heavy storm, is still common. There are countless workshops in the area which produce not just wonderful jewellery but all sorts of ornaments and souvenirs from this ancient stone. The heart of the Gdańsk amber market is the picturesque Mariacka Street (C-4), which is lined with numerous stores and workshops. Keep an eye out for the International Amber Association’s certificate, which guarantees the seller has been checked and deemed trustworthy. Another option is to take a tour of an amber workshop where you will see both how the stone is worked to turn it into the beautiful pieces you see mounted in finished jewellery and also learn how to spot a fake piece of amber. AMBERSTYL WORKSHOP & GALLERY Owned and run by Zbigniew Strzelczyk, one of the most senior Amber Masters in Poland, who has been sourcing and working amber for over 40 years. Find him at his workshop/gallery on the quayside next to the crane. Note that Mr. Strzelczyk was the master craftsman chosen to present amber and how it is worked to the UK’s Prince William and Princess Kate.QD‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 31, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 80, www.amberstyl.pl. Open 10:00-20:00.

Tri-city Shopping GALERIA WYDRA A prestigious Amber dealer on ul. Mariacka selling a wide range of products. Aside from your usual jewellery products (earrings, bracelets, necklaces, rings etc.) the artisans associated with the gallery also produce lamps, wall clocks and classical figurines. The gallery itself is a chance to look inside one of Mariacka’s 16th-century buildings, though the interior style may be from a later period. Shop-browsing could be less fun!QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 77 79. Open 10:00-18:00. LILOU NEW A favourite of members of our team for birthday presents. Lilou are best known for their jewellery but what makes them different is the ability they give you to personalise a piece of jewellery so that it is unique to you. Choose your ring or bracelet or even cufflinks and then the friendly staff will take you through the various options that come with each and help you choose a design or pendant or engraving that makes it that bit special. Not limiting themselves to jewellery, you’ll can also choose from handbags or personal organisers with the same idea – choose one and then personalise it. They also have a webstore in English if you want to take a browse in peace. Also (R-4) Gdynia at ul. Świętojańska 56 and a NEW Sopot store (O-6) ul. Monte Cassino 47.QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 126/127, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 16 06, www. lilou.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:0014:00.

Learn more about Baltic Amber at iyp.me/gdanskamber

MANUFAKTURA BURSZTYNU S&A Manufaktura Bursztynu S&A is now the combined site of its Amber workshop and, more recently, S&A Jewellery Store, formerly on ul. Mariacka. Because of this, shoppers now have the opportunity to be involved in organised workshops and see how amber jewellery is made! Their products are impressive and modern, drawing upon classic designs and acknowledging the part that nature plays in amber creation, with motifs like trees and leaf-shapes. Qul. Targ Węglowy 26, tel. (+48) 695 99 00 84, www.s-a.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Opening Hours subject to change. 125

Tri-city Shopping GDAŃSK IN BOOKS

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS ART BALTICUM A souvenir gallery in the centre of the Old Town with a large collection of handicrafts made from glass and ceramic by Polish artists. Stylistically, overall the collection is ‘playful’ and ‘naïve’. While you aren’t going to find any small models of St Mary’s Basilica, Amber jewellery or Kashubian folk art, you may find something unique for a friend or family member who needs some colour on their mantlepiece. Also at B-4, ul. Kołodziejska 7/9E.QB‑5, ul. Długa 29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 11 50, www.artbalticum.pl. Open 09:00-20:00.

Thanks to a combination of WWII bombing, post-war Socialist planning and social and cultural change, the complexion of Gdańsk and the Tri-city area has changed dramatically over the past 100 years. There are two series of photo albums which capture this wonderfully with pictures taken before, during and after the events of WWII. The first, entitled Był Sobie Gdańsk (Gdańsk As it Once Was), is a series of books which were published by former Prime Minister Donald Tusk (a Gdanskian and Kashubian). You’ll recognise many of the old Gdańsk, Wrzeszcz and Sopot streets and see how people once lived. Contrasting dramatically is a series published by photographer Maciej Kosycarz entitled Extraordinary Ordinary Photographs which presents the work of both himself and his father during the period 19452007. Their photos demonstrate the destruction of the city in 1945, its painstaking reconstruction, and life in the People’s Republic in the years after. Gdańsk is also the former home of author Günter Grass, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1999. His most famous work, The Tin Drum, takes place during the interwar period, and is the first book of his ‘Danzig Trilogy’ - three books which focus on the culture of the city, the rise of Nazism, and the effect World War II had on Gdańsk/Danzig. One of the pinnacles of postwar German literature, if there’s one book about Gdańsk you should read, it’s The Tin Drum. EMPIK Empik is Poland’s biggest book retailer, with locations in most major cities and shopping malls. In addition to books - a scant section of which should be in English, including guidebooks, Polish literature, English-language magazines and press - Empik also sells CDs, vinyl records, DVDs, toys, games, office and art supplies. Also at ul. Kołobrzeska 41C (Alfa Centrum), ul. Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4), ul. Złota Karczma 26 (Park Handlowy Matarnia).QB‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 66, www.empik.com. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. 126

CEPELIA This well-recognised company has been promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts for over 50 years, and offers a selection of local handicrafts and souvenirs from traditional Kashubian embroidery and wood-carvings to Solidarity t-shirts - right on Gdańsk’s high street. A lot of is touristy rubbish, but we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthday’s coming up). Also in Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 2/4 (N-1).QC‑5, ul. Długa 47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 27 08, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. FOLKSTAR In the souvenir shop business, Folkstar have upped the game to offer tourists to Poland the chance to buy what can only be described as traditional items, steeped in ethnic Polish folklore, but given a slight design makeover to add a modern twist. Even before you enter, you are bedazzled by the sheer range of colours of all the products. Not only can you buy souvenirs here, but the extensive collection of items include household, office and fashion items, many of which are handmade. QA‑5, ul. Targ Sienny 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 733 20 09 10, www. folkstar.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. GALERIA SZTUKI KASZUBSKIEJ A fantastic little place if you are looking for local handicrafts to take home as gifts. The business is run by a mother and daughter and on certain days you’ll even find a granddaughter present. The daughter is a designer while the mother makes all the clothes by hand. Lots of wonderful gifts all based on the local Kashubian region’s traditions.QC‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 48, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 503 00 59 78, www.gskart.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. From October 12:00-17:00. SZAFA GDAŃSKA A wide selection of old Danzig photos, books, post cards, images, graphics, albums and assorted handmade curios. QB‑4, ul. Garbary 14/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 05 87 10, www.szafagdanska.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:0015:00; closed Sun.

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry. GDAŃSK, 126/127 Ogarna Street GDYNIA, 56 Świętojańska Street SOPOT, 47 Monte Cassino Street

lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Tri-city Shopping ART GLASS

MADE BY HAND IN POLAND

DECORATION GALERIA SZTUK RÓŻNYCH A wonderful little gallery run by a woman (pani Magda) who is both clearly talented and professional. Magda has teamed up with local photographer Maciej Kosycarz in a gallery close to Długa. Everything on show here would make a wonderful gift including the paintings on the wall and the beautiful shaped and coloured tableware which comes in a range of attractive designs with a Tri-city theme. You get the gifts in beautiful, locally produced packaging which, in our opinion, makes them that bit more attractive. QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 101, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 07 02, www.magdabeneda.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. From November closed Sun.

ART BALTICUM ul. Długa 29 artbalticum@interia.pl Second address: vis a vis The Great Armoury Piwna / Kolodziejska Corner

ART CERAMICS

JEWELLERY PERFUMERIA QUALITY MISSALA Inspired by the momentum of socio-political change in the early 90s, the Missala family of Warsaw created what would become one of the leading perfume businesses in Poland. The Gdańsk boutique glows with an aura of prestige, like their other stores, displaying an impressive range of high-quality and very exclusive perfumery and cosmetic products. Here you can sample fragrances from the very best international brands. Don’t worry about being overwhelmed by choice or, indeed, the smell! Missala’s knowledgable staff are there for a reason and not just to look fancy. Recommendations come with high expertise and exceptional customer service.QB‑5, ul. Ogarna 3/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 736 89 04 28, www.perfumeriaquality.pl. Open 11:0018:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. ROCK SHOP OK. This is hardly a ‘local’ gift but nothing in the city will show a total stranger anywhere else in the world that you (or a relative) has been to Gdańsk than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt. It’s probably fair to say that HRC will do as much to get the name of the city out there globally as anything the local promotions department can do. Find a range of Hard Rock Cafe clothing and souvenirs in the store adjacent to the restaurant on ul. Długi Targ. The classic white t-shirt will cost you 100zł.QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00-24:00.

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Tri-city Shopping MARKETS These are the places where locals once did the bulk of their shopping. Rows and rows of kiosks would offer you anything local merchants could get their hands on to sell, and these places particularly thrived in the post-1989 years. The advent of the western-style shopping mall and the huge out-of-town hypermarkets, however, have turned these historic market places into little more than flea markets and the number of people using them has dropped dramatically. Many older locals still shop in the markets out of habit, and while some goods can be found in better quality elsewhere, the fruit and veggies are still fresher here, and the prices are tough to beat. An interesting look into what life used to be like, if nothing else.

Hala Targowa

GDAŃSK MARKET HALL (HALA TARGOWA) One of the strangest buildings in the city, Gdańsk’s covered market was built in 1896 in Neo-Gothic style. During recent renovations the foundations of one of the city’s oldest churches, the 12th century Church of St. Nicolas, were discovered underneath the main market building. Amid the cheap clothing stalls and rows of meat and dairy, the church’s foundations now provide a small, living archaeology museum in the basement along with a display of photographs, objects found during the excavations and drawings of how the church might have looked. You can also visit the Romanesque Cellars (p.70) whose entrance can be found in the outdoor part of the market.QB‑3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 346 31 33. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun. GDYNIA MARKET HALL (HALA TARGOWA) One of the few places left in the Tri-city where you can get that authentic old time shopping experience. Inside this large Hala Targowa (Trading Hall), rows of independent traders offer everything from clothing to electronic equipment. Very popular with the visiting Swedish shoppers looking to pick up a bargain, the market is a glimpse into post-communist Poland before the arrival of the western style shopping malls and hypermarkets now so familiar across the region. Find it close to Gdynia Main Railway station.QQ-3, ul. Wójta Radtkiego 36-40, Gdynia, www.haletargowegdynia.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Discover a place of art in Gdańsk PERFUME, CARE COSMETICS, MAKE-UP Perfumery Quality Gdańsk ul. Ogarna 3/4 tel. +48 736 890 428 We invite you from Monday to Friday, 11:00 to 19:00 and on Saturdays and Sundays, 11:00 to 16:00

PerfumeriaQuality.pl 129

Shopping Malls

Tri-City Shopping Malls Huge development in the retail sector has turned the Tri-city into a veritable shopping destination, with state-of-the-art shopping malls offering top brands at competitive prices now stationed all along the coast and at almost every major exit on the Ring Road (S6/E28). As such, you won’t have to travel far to find a modern shopping Mecca, the best of which we list below. Remember that the Sunday hours listed only apply to the last Sunday of the month; malls are closed all other Sundays. ALFA CENTRUM Operating since 2000, Alfa features over 15,550m2 of retail and entertainment space, including a multiplex cinema and climbing wall. Among the 80 plus stores and points you’ll find the Smyk toy shop which can claim to be one of the best in the city, and the mall also features an H&M, Media Expert, Rossmann, Mohito, EMPiK and the Piotr and Paweł supermarket. Parking for 500 cars complete the facilities. Find it in the Przymorze district of Gdańsk, just off the main Gdańsk - Gdynia road (ul. Grunwaldzka).Qul. Kołobrzeska 41C, Gdańsk (Przymorze), tel. (+48) 58 769 40 00, www.alfacentrum.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

DESIGNER OUTLET GDANSK The only large scale ‘outlet’ style shopping complex in Pomerania, featuring big name brands at knockdown prices inside what looks like a seaside fishing village complete with lighthouse. Stores include Pepe Jeans, Asics, New Balance, Calvin Klein Jeans, Guess, Benetton, Nike, Levis, Villeroy & Boch, Tommy Hilfiger and Tchibo. The centre also includes cafes and an indoor play area for the kids. Located on the Tri-city ring road about 9km from central Gdańsk, the centre can be reached easily by car or taxi for about 40zł.Qul. Przywidzka 8, Gdańsk (Szadółki), tel. (+48) 58 320 99 44, www. designeroutletgdansk.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

FORUM GDAŃSK A modern shopping and entertainment centre built on the remains of the historic Targ Sienny (Hay Market) and Targ Rakowy (Crayfish Market), the 14th-century Radunia canal flows through the centre of this complex which has breathed new life into the area directly across from the Upland Gate and the entrance to the Royal Way (p.26). The heart of the development is the shopping mall, but there’s also a cinema, fitness centre and a new public square which offers a tremendous view of the Old Town (p.26). QA‑4, ul. Targ Sienny 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 732 61 19, www.forumgdansk.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. 130

GALERIA BAŁTYCKA Gdańsk’s most popular shopping gallery can be found in Wrzeszcz at the junction of the main Tri-city road (al. Grunwaldzka) and the main road to the airport (ul. Słowackiego). Inside you’ll find over 200 stores, cafes and restaurants, including a 3-level H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, Tommy Hilfiger, Zara, Carrefour supermarket and the best food court in the city. Opposite the Gdańsk-Wrzeszcz train station, to get there you can also take trams 5, 6, 9, 11 or 12 from Gdańsk city centre; a taxi costs about 30zł.QF‑2, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 50, www.galeriabaltycka.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

GALERIA HANDLOWA MADISON Found close to the main train station in the heart of Gdańsk, this is the most centrally located of all of Gdańsk’s malls. Shoppers have a choice of over 100 shops and service outlets, restaurants and cafes, as well as currency exchange and underground parking. Brands include CCC, Douglas, Ecco, Festus, Intersport, MOLTON, New Yorker, Mohito, Orsay, Ryłko, Unisono, Venezia, Wólczanka and Wojas, plus a tourist info office. There’s also the Calypso gym upstairs, a laundromat and food court.QB‑2, ul. Rajska 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 766 75 30, www.madison.gda.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

KLIF The Tri-city’s original shopping mall, Klif covers over 30,000m2, with free parking for 1,200 cars, and over 130 exclusive boutiques, including many unique brands you won’t find in other Tri-city malls: Calvin Klein Jeans, COS, Emanuel Berg, Lidia Kalita, Robert Kupisz, Marciano Guess, Max Mara, Patrizia Pepe, Petit Bateau, Pinko, Stefanel, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Right by Gdynia Orłowo train station on the SKM, you can also take bus S or trolleybus 21 and 31 from Sopot or Gdynia. From Gdansk city centre a taxi costs about 20 Euros.QP‑6, Al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 93 45, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. 131

Services Directory 24-HOUR SHOPS CARREFOUR EXPRESS QB‑4, ul. Długa 67/68, Gdańsk. Open 24-hours. DELIKATESY TOBI QO‑2, ul. Świętojańska 62, Gdynia. Open 24-hours. DONAQD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 8, Gdańsk. Open 24-hours.

24-HOUR PHARMACIES APTEKA DR. MAX QA‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1 (Gdańsk Główny Train Station), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 92 13. Open 24-hours.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

24-HOUR POST OFFICE GDAŃSK CENTRAL POST OFFICE A 24-hour post office located right on Gdańsk’s main street. QB‑4, ul. Długa 23/28, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 80 84, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES There are a number of consulates or honorary consuls in the Tri-city but for most issues you will need to contact your embassy in Warsaw. For a more expansive list of embassies and consulates in Poland take a look at our feature at iyp. me/74804f.

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 (mobile) or +48 22 278 77 77 (landline).

AUSTRIAN CONSULATE IN GDAŃSK QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 5/2, tel. +48 58 769 36 36, www. kacprzak.com.pl. Open 10:00-12:00; closed Sat, Sun.

For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR and should only be visited when absolutely necessary. In less urgent crises we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

FINNISH CONSULATE IN GDYNIA QN‑1, ul. Morska 59, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 621 68 52, www.finland.pl. Open Mon, Fri 09:00-12:00 only.

EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR): COPERNICUS PODMIOT LECZNICZY Just west of the Upland Gate and Forum Gdańsk shopping mall, this is Gdańsk’s most central hospital and emergency room.QJ‑4, ul. Nowe Ogrody 1-6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 764 01 00, www.copernicus. gda.pl. LUX-MED A private medical clinic located near Gdańsk Stocznia train station. Also in Oliwa at ul. Pomorska 96.QAl. Zwycięstwa 49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 07:30-14:00; closed Sun. MEDICOVER Medicover is a private medical centre located in the Oliwa district of Gdańsk. The closest station, however, is Gdańsk Przymorze-Uniwersytet SKM.QL‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 472A, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. Opening hours may be subject to change. 132

APTEKA DYŻURNA QO‑2, Pl. Kaszubski 8, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 58 58. Open 24-hours.

DUTCH CONSULATE IN GDAŃSK QB‑3, Ul. Bielańska 5, tel. (+48) 58 346 98 78, www. netherlandsandyou.nl. Open Wed, Thu and Fri 09:0011:00.

GERMAN CONSULATE IN GDAŃSK QH‑6, Al. Zwycięstwa 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 340 65 00, www.polen.diplo.de. Open 08:00-12:00; closed Sat, Sun. NORWEGIAN CONSULATE IN GDYNIA QO‑2, ul. Śląska 17, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 80 04, www.norway.no. Open Mon, Wed, Fri only, 10:00-12:00. SWEDISH CONSULATE IN GDAŃSK QB‑3, ul. Bielańska 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 763 14 69, www.swedenabroad.com. Open Mon, Wed and Fri 09:00-11:00.

DENTISTS SWEDENTQ0‑2, ul. Abrahama 28/4, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 505 57 75 30, www.swedentpolska.com.

GENEALOGY NATIONAL ARCHIVEQB‑2, ul. Wałowa 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 74 63, www.gdansk.ap.gov.pl. Open 07:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. TRIP2GDANSK Qtel. (+48) 734 46 04 44, www.trip2gdansk.pl.

Services Directory LAUNDRY SPEED QUEEN LAUNDRY This American self-service laundromat offers with high quality washing machines and tumble dryers (still a rare sight in PL), giving you the chance to finally clean up the contents of that rucksack. Everything is in English, the machines take cards and cash, there’s free wi-fi, and washing and drying only takes 90mins total. Really, this is as easy as it gets. Also in Gdańsk in Galeria Handlowa Madison (B-2). QN‑1, ul. Zygmunta Augusta 7D, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 788 49 94 55, www.pralnie3city.pl. Open 07:00-23:00.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES GOSPEL CHURCH Christian church with English language meetings every Sunday at 11:30.QG‑4, Al. Grunwaldzka 82 (Manhattan Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, www.gospelchurchgdansk.pl. MOSQUEQul. Abrahama 17A, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 505 17 35 93. Open 12:00-15:00. Services take place every Friday at 12:00. NEW SYNAGOGUE IN GDAŃSK WRZESZCZ As well as being the social hub for the small Jewish community of about 90 members, this is the only place in the Tri-city where Jewish services are held, always at 09:30; call the number provided if you would like to participate. QG‑3, ul. Partyzantów 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 344 06 02, www.gdansk.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. PROTESTANT PRAYER HOUSE QB‑4, ul. Za Murami 2-10, Gdańsk (Dom Harcerza), tel. (+48) 605 28 24 17, www.gdansk.reformacja.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES LESS MESS STORAGE This professional self-storage company offers locker rentals in sizes up to 15 square metres. The number we list is their 24-hour info line; to contact their Tri-city office/shop call +48 12 292 96 51 (open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00).Qul. Energetyczna 13, Kowale, tel. +48 58 770 28 70, www.lessmess.storage. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. LESS MESS STORAGE For those with too much clutter, Less Mess Storage offers solutions to managing your possessions and living space. Whether it’s temporary storage during travel, a small locker for valuables or ongoing storage as an extension of your business, there is an option and size for every circumstance. Pick it, rent it, store it - it’s that simple. All units are secure and fully-armed, leaving you at ease to focus on more important things in life. Qul. Sobieskiego 115, Rumia, tel. (+48) 800 33 00 33, www.lessmess.storage. Open 09:0019:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. 133

Tri-city Hotels

The prestigious gardens of the Sofitel Grand Hotel (p.135)

CREAM OF THE CROP HILTON HOTEL QD‑3, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 71 00, www.hiltongdansk.pl. 150 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles, 4 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PU 6KHCDFw hhhhh HOTEL GDAŃSK BOUTIQUE 5***** QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 17 17, www.hotelgdansk.pl. 90 rooms (11 singles, 74 doubles, 4 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PU6KH Dw hhhhh PODEWILS QD‑4, ul. Szafarnia 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 95 60, www.podewils.pl. 10 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles). P6KHD hhhhh

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning D‑3 Map Coordinate F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

134

QUADRILLE QQ‑11, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 351 03 00, www.quadrille.pl. 31 rooms (3 singles, 27 doubles, 1 apartment). PUKHCDFw hhhhh RADISSON BLUQC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 19/Powroźnicza, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 44 44, www.radissonhotels. com. 134 rooms (8 singles, 118 doubles, 8 apartments). PUL6KHDFw hhhhh RADISSON HOTEL & SUITES GDAŃSK QD‑5, ul. Chmielna 10-25, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 600 28 88, www.radissonhotels.com. PUL6KHC DF hhhh REZYDENTQN‑6, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 58 00, www.hotelrezydent.com.pl. 65 rooms (6 singles, 56 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). PUL6KHDw hhhhh SHERATON SOPOT HOTELQO‑6, ul. Powstańcow Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 00, www. sheratonsopot.pl. 189 rooms (10 apartments). PU L6KHCDFw hhhhh

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Tri-city Hotels SOFITEL GRAND SOPOT QO‑6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 00, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com. 126 rooms (84 doubles, 42 suites). PUL6KH CDFw hhhhh SOPOT MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA QP‑10, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 00, www.sopotmarriott.com. 145 rooms (124 singles, 141 doubles, 4 apartments). PUL6 KHCDFw hhhh

UPMARKET ALMOND BUSINESS & SPA QB‑6, ul. Toruńska 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 90 00, www.hotelalmond.pl. 108 rooms (6 singles, 93 doubles, 7 suites, 2 apartments). PUL6KHCDw hhhh BAYJONN HOTEL QO‑6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 730 71 71 71, www.bayjonnhotel.pl. 29 rooms (28 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). PULKHDF hhh BONUM HOTEL QC‑2, ul. Sieroca 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 78 10, www.hotelbonum.pl. 32 rooms (6 singles, 23 doubles, 2 apartments, 1 Superior) 50 zł extra - Visiting with an animal. U6KH hhh

GDYNIA – YOUR PERFECT SUMMER GATEWAY

BEST RATES GUARANTEE AT: reservation@courtyardgdynia.com +48 58 743 07 00 Marriott.com/GDNCY

Book your stay at the hotel located in the heart of Gdynia, enjoy spectacular sea view and friendly atmosphere.

Courtyard by Marriott Gdynia Waterfront ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia hotel@courtyardgdynia.com courtyardgdynia.com.pl

CRAFT BEER HOTEL CENTRAL QA‑3, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 351 09 10, www.centralhotelgdansk.pl. 39 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles). P6K H hhhh COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT GDYNIA WATERFRONT QS‑3, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 00, www.marriott.com/GDNCY. 200 rooms (199 singles, 199 doubles, 1 suite). PU6KHF hhhh HAFFNER (HOTEL HAFFNER) QO‑4, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 99 99, www.hotelhaffner.pl. 105 rooms (100 singles, 93 doubles, 5 apartments). PTULKHCD Fw hhhhh HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK AIRPORT Qul. Słowackiego 220 (Rębiechowo), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 882 10 00, www.hampton.com. 116 rooms (116 singles, 116 doubles). PULKHF hhh HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK OLD TOWN QB‑4, ul. Letykarska 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+480 58 670 33 33, www.hampton.com. PTUL6WKHF hhh 135

Tri-city Hotels IBB HOTEL DŁUGI TARG QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 14-16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 87 00, www.hoteldlugitarg.pl. PUL6KHw hhhh KRÓLEWSKI QD‑4, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 11 11, www.hotelkrolewski.pl. 30 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 6 triples, 4 apartments). UL6KH hhh MERCURE GDAŃSK STARE MIASTO QB‑2, ul. Heweliusza 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 321 00 00, www.mercure.com. 281 rooms (275 singles, 275 doubles, 6 apartments). PUL6KHF hhhh MERCURE GDYNIA CENTRUM QR‑4, ul. Armii Krajowej 22, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 666 30 40, www.mercure.com. 294 rooms (286 singles, 286 doubles, 8 suites). UL6KHCDw hhh NADMORSKI QS‑6, ul. Ejsmonda 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667 77 77, www.nadmorski.pl. 90 rooms (82 singles, 82 doubles, 4 triples, 4 apartments). PU6KHDFw hhhh

HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK OLIWA QK‑6, Al. Grunwaldzka 507, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 81 00, www.hampton.com. 101 rooms (48 singles, 48 doubles, 52 triples, 1 quad). PTUKF hhh HANZA QD‑4, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 34 27, www.hotelhanza.pl. 61 rooms (17 singles, 36 doubles, 5 suites, 3 Presidential Suites). PU6KHDF hhhh HOLIDAY INN GDAŃSK CITY CENTRE QD‑4, ul. Chmielna 1, tel. (+00) 800 311 1216, www.ihg. com. PUL6KHF HOLLAND HOUSE RESIDENCE QC‑5, ul. Długi Targ 33/34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 77 77, www.hollandhouse.pl. 26 rooms (19 doubles, 6 triples, 1 apartment). UKH HOTEL SEDAN QO‑7, ul. Pułaskiego 18-20, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 09 80, www.sedan.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 3 suites, 4 apartments). PUL6KH hh HOTEL SOPOT QO‑3, ul. J.J. Haffnera 88, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 882 80 00, www.hotelsopot.eu. 124 rooms (111 singles, 124 doubles). PUL6KHCFw hhhh 136

NOVOTEL CENTRUM QD‑5, ul. Pszenna 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 27 50, www.accorhotels.com. 158 rooms (158 singles, 158 doubles). PUL6KHF hhh NOVOTEL GDAŃSK MARINA QP-12, ul. Jelitkowska 20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 558 91 00, www.accorhotels.com. 125 rooms (125 singles, 125 doubles, 64 triples, 28 quads). UL6KHC DF hhh PURO GDAŃSK QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 563 50 00, www.purohotel.pl. 211 rooms (13 singles, 189 doubles, 9 apartments). PUL6KHDFw hhhh Q HOTEL GRAND CRU QD‑3, ul. Rycerska 11-12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 73 00, www.qhotels.pl. 50 rooms (50 singles, 50 doubles). PU6KHDF hhhh QUBUS HOTEL QC‑6, ul. Chmielna 47/52, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 752 21 00, www.qubushotel.com. 110 rooms (36 singles, 72 doubles, 2 apartments). PUL6WKHD Fw hhhh RÓŻANY GAJ QS‑5, ul. Korzeniowskiego 19D, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 719 55 55, www.rozanygaj.pl. 39 rooms (3 singles, 29 doubles, 3 triples, 4 apartments). PUL6KH CD hhh

Tri-city Hotels SCANDIC GDAŃSK QB‑2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 60 00, www.scandichotels.com. 143 rooms (60 singles, 64 doubles, 18 suites). PU6KHDFw hhhh VILLA BALTICA QP‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 28 00, www.villabaltica.com. 33 rooms (6 singles, 24 doubles, 3 apartments). PUL6KHDw hhh WILLA LUBICZ QS‑11, ul. Orłowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40, www.willalubicz.pl. 16 rooms (15 doubles, 1 suite). ULKHD hhh

DOM MUZYKA - A HOTEL WITH AN UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE 7 minutes walk from Gdansk Old Town

ZHONG HUA QP‑7, Al. Wojska Polskiego 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 20 20, www.hotelchinski.pl. 49 rooms (37 singles, 37 doubles, 10 apartments, 2 Mandaryn Suites). L6K hhh

MID-RANGE ARTUS QC‑4, ul. Piwna 36-39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 96 00, www.artushotel.com.pl. 50 rooms (6 singles, 19 doubles, 11 triples, 6 quads, 2 apartments). UKHD hhh

ul. Łąkowa 1-2, Tel. +48 58 326 06 00 www.dommuzyka.pl

DOM MUZYKA Qul. Łąkowa 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 06 00, www.dommuzyka.pl. 87 rooms (36 singles, 50 doubles, 1 apartment). UL6KH FOCUS HOTEL PREMIUM SOPOT QM‑6, ul. 1 Maja 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 728 45 28, www. focushotels.pl. PUL6KH hhh FOCUS PREMIUM QE‑3, ul. Nad Stawem 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 670 42 90, www.focushotels.pl. PUL6KHDF hhhh

We invite you to our stylish residence located in the heart of Gdansk - the city of Hevelius, Amber and Neptune

HOTEL NUMBER ONE QC‑6, ul. Jaglana 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 80 10, www.hotelnumberone.pl. 172 rooms (7 singles, 101 doubles, 68 quads). PULKHCDFw hhh IBIS GDAŃSK STARE MIASTO QC‑2, ul. Heweliusza 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 67 00, www.ibis.com. 120 rooms (120 singles, 120 doubles). PU6KH hh

We guarantee you a friendly atmosphere, professional service and an unforgettable time.

KAMIENICA GOLDWASSER QC‑4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. 7 rooms (7 apartments). 6K

Ul. Stągiewna 2/3, 80-750 Gdańsk Tel. +48 58 710 01 01, Fax. +48 58 718 65 17 www.kobza.pl, recepcja@kobza.pl

137

Tri-city Hotels

Lion Apartments Sopot tel.: + 48 511 813 055 sopot@lion-apartments.pl www.lion-apartments.pl Office : Sopot ul. Grunwaldzka 50

Feel comfortable when you’re away Rooms & Apartments in Sopot WOLNE MIASTO Feel comfortable when you’re away QB‑4, ul. Św. Ducha 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 22 55, www.hotelwm.pl. 68 rooms (18 singles, 46 doubles, Rooms & Apartments in Sopot 3 suites, 1 apartment). UKH hhh

KAMIENICA GOTYK QC‑4, ul. Mariacka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 85 67, www.gotykhouse.eu. 11 rooms (9 doubles, 1 quad, 1 5-person room). P KOBZA HAUS QD‑5, ul. Stągiewna 2/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 01 01, www.kobza.pl. 22 rooms (2 singles, 18 doubles, 2 apartments). P MARINA CLUB HOTEL QD‑5, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 733 60 01, www.marinaclubhotel.pl. 34 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 26 apartments). P6K hhh MERCURE GDAŃSK POSEJDON Qul. Kapliczna 30, Gdańsk (Jelitkowo), tel. (+48) 58 511 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. 151 rooms (151 singles, 151 doubles) Breakfast 55zł. TUL6KHCD Fw hhh

BUDGET HOTEL GRYFQul. Jana z Kolna 22/26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 01 30, www.gryfgdansk.pl. 66 rooms (66 singles, 46 doubles, 20 triples). U6KH hh

APARTMENTS APARTAMENTY SOPOTQM‑5, ul. Władysława Łokietka 51, Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www. seatowers24.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments). DF DOM & HOUSE APARTAMENTYQN‑8, ul. 3 Maja 44A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 883 37 42 38, www.dhapartamenty.pl. 275 rooms (275 apartments). UL6

OLIWSKIQJ‑6, ul. Piastowska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 761 66 10, www.hoteloliwski.pl. 53 rooms (9 singles, 37 doubles). PUH hhh

GDANSK APARTMENTSQB‑4, tel. (+48) 503 05 71 42. 5 rooms (5 apartments). NT6

VILLA ANTONINA QN‑5, ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 00 09, www.villaantonina.pl. 12 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles, 2 apartments). UL6H

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138

Tri-city Hotels JOVI APARTMENTS QN‑9, ul. Władysława Łokietka 19C (2nd floor), Sopot, tel. (+48) 797 60 11 00, www.joviapartments.com. 5 rooms (5 apartments). L6F LION APARTMENTS QO‑7, ul. Grunwaldzka 50/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 511 81 30 55, www.lion-apartments.pl. 50 rooms (50 apartments). TL6 LONGSTAY APARTHOTEL QR‑6, ul. Artura Grottgera 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 713 12 13, www.longstay.pl. T6DF MAŁA ANGLIA BOUTIQUE APARTMENTS & SPA QO‑8, ul. Grunwaldzka 94-96, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 351 05 20, www.malaanglia.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments). L6CDw ORLOWSKA43 QS‑11, ul. Orlowska 43A/7, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 728 08 49, www.orlowska43.pl. 1 room (1 apartment). L SEA TOWERS QS‑3, ul. Hryniewickiego 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www.seatowers24.pl. 30 apartments. P WILLA WINCENT Qul. Pola 33, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 731 00 00 64, www. willawincent.pl. 6

HOSTELS 3 CITY HOSTEL QB‑3, Targ Drzewny 12/14, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 354 54 54, www.3city-hostel.pl. 30 rooms (3 doubles, 1 quad, 3 six-person room, 17 eight-person room, 6 ten-person room, 1 fourteen-person room, 238 dorm beds). CENTRAL SOPOT QN‑6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 530 85 87 17, www.centralsopot.com. 30 rooms (30 singles, 19 doubles, 9 triples, 2 quads, 1 apartment, 1 eight person room). HOSTEL UNIVERSUS QB‑5, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 81 14, www.hostel.universus.pl. 10 rooms (1 single, 3 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 1 apartment, 2 five-person room, 1 seven-person room). 6 LUX HOSTEL QR‑4, ul. Świętojańska 67, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 74 24 55, www.luxhostel.pl. 6 MIDTOWN HOSTEL QB‑3, Podwale Staromiejskie 105/106 lok.1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 50 57, www.midtownhostel.pl. 6 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 1 quad, 1 six-person room). 139

Index If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of venues across the Tri-city listed on our websites:

Zone 29, 68 Free Now 19 Fukafe 49 Galeria Bałtycka 131 gdansk.inyourpocket.com Galeria Handlowa Madison 131 Galeria Sztuki Kaszubskiej 126 sopot.inyourpocket.com Galeria Sztuk Różnych 128 gdynia.inyourpocket.com Galeria Wydra 125 GÅRD – Taste Scandinavian 105 3 Burger 103 Bez Rezerwacji 83 Garrison Church of St. George 3 City Hostel 139 BHP Building 39 57 3 Siostry 114 Bistro Walter 97 Gate #2 of the Gdańsk Shipyard Abraham's House 64 Black and White 104 39 A La Française 85 Blinkee Electric Mopeds 19 Gdansk Apartments 138 AleBrowar 114, 118 Blues Club 119 Gdansk History Museum 68 Alfa Centrum 130 Bonum Hotel 135 Gdańsk Marina 34 Almond Business & Spa 135 Brovarnia 85, 108 Gdańsk Market Hall 129 Al Ponte Ristorante 88 Browar PG4 85 Gdansk Panoramic Wheel 73 Amber Museum 26, 68 Buddha Lounge 83 Gdańsk University of Amberstyl Workshop & Gallery Bunkier Klubogaleria 113 Technology 47 124 Café Absinthe 108 Gdańsk Zoo 54 Anna Walentynowicz Café Bar Mon Balzac 80 Gdynia Aquarium 66, 76 Monument 48 Cafe Ferber 109 Gdynia City Museum 71 Antoni Abraham monument 64 Cafe Kamienica 80 Gdynia Market Hall 129 Apartamenty Sopot 138 Cafe Lamus 109 Gdynia Naval Museum 66, 71, Arco by Paco Pérez 55 Cafe Oficyna 80 76 Art Balticum 126 Café Zaścianek 100 Golden Gate 28 Art Deco 97 Casa Cubeddu 104 Goldwasser 83 Artus 137 Cathead Multitap 109 Goldwasser Restaurant 83 Artus Court 28, 68 Central Sopot 139 Good Morning Vietnam 102 Atelier 116 Centrum Hevelianum 76 Grand SPA 121 Avangarda 114 Centrum Nauki Experyment 75 Green Bridge 34 Avocado 49 Cepelia 126 Green Gate 30 B90 110 Český Film 95 Guga Sweet & Spicy 92 Bagażownia 99 Chang Thai Street Food 83 Haffner 135 Bar 512 115 Chlebnicka Gate 30 HAH Sopot 116 Bar Familijny - KOS 89 Church of the Sacred Heart of Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Bar Mleczny Stągiewna 89 Jesus 46 Airport 135 Bar Pod Rybą 92 Coffee Shop - Happy People Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Old Bar Przystań 95 104 Town 135 Bayjonn Hotel 135 Courtyard by Marriott Gdynia Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Oliwa 136 Hanza 136 Hard Rock Cafe 83, 110 Hashi Sushi 94 High 5 110 Hilton Hotel 134 Holiday Inn Gdańsk City Centre 136 Holland House Residence 136 Hostel Universus 139 Hotel Gdańsk Boutique 5***** 134 Hotel Gryf 138 Hotel Haffner Restaurant 97 Hotel Haffner Spa 121 Hotel Number One 137 Hotel Sedan 136 Hotel Sopot 136 IBB Hotel Długi Targ 136 Ibis Gdańsk Stare Miasto 137 Inhalation Mushrooms 58 Ink Above 110 Joseph Conrad monument 66 JOVI Apartments 139 Józef K. 111 Statue of Polish painter Antoni Suchanek at Orłowo Pier, Gdynia (T-11). Photo courtesy of the City of Gdynia. Józef Piłsudski monument 67

140

Waterfront 135 Craft Beer Hotel Central 135 Craft Cocktails 109 Crane 32, 68 Crooked House 58 Cybermachina 112 Cyrano et Roxane 96 Czarna Perła & Galeon Lew 76 'Dar Pomorza' Museum Ship 66, 71 Designer Outlet Gdansk 130 Displaced Gdynian monument 64 Dolce Vita 100 Dom & House Apartamenty 138 Dom Muzyka 137 Donegal 118 Drukarnia 80 Dwie Zmiany 100 Eliksir 49 Emigration Museum 71 Emigration Museum in Gdynia 64 Empik 126 Ethnographic Museum 68 European Solidarity Centre 68 European Solidarity Centre (ECS) 38 Fahrenheit Monument 29 Falla 105 Familia Bistro 90 Fanaberia Crepes & Cafe 105 Filharmonia 86 Fish & Chips 84 Flisak 76 110 Focus Hotel Premium Sopot 137 Focus Premium 137 Folkstar 126 Forum Gdańsk 130 Free City of Danzig Historical

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Index JUMPCITY 75 Kafe Delfin 81 Kamienica Goldwasser 137 Kamienica Gotyk 138 Karczma Irena 100 Kawiarnia Filmowa W Starym Kadrze 80 Klif 131 Kobza Haus 138 KolejNa Kolejka 115 Królewski 136 Kubicki 92 Lawendowa 8 111 Le Bar 115 Lech Wałęsa 37 Lilou 125 Lion Apartments 139 Lolo Thaijolo 102 Long Market & Neptune Fountain 28 Longstay Aparthotel 139 Long Waterfront 30 Lookier Cafe & Restaurant 81 Lookier Restaurant 86 Lux Hostel 139 M15 Saunspot 122 Magiel Restaurant 86 Mała Anglia Boutique Apartments & SPA 139 Malbork Castle 72 Małgorzata Mazur Tour Guide 72 Malika 105 Marina Club Hotel 138 Masala 83 Mefisto 119 Mercato 92 Mercure Gdańsk Posejdon 138

Mercure Gdańsk Stare Miasto 136 Mercure Gdynia Centrum 136 Miasto Aniołów 113 Midtown Hostel 139 Ministerstwo Śledzia i Wódki 111 Mito Sushi 84 Mondo di Vinegre 103 Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970 39 Moshi Moshi Sushi 94 Museum of Gdańsk Science 69 Nadmorski 136 Na Drugą Nóżkę 116 Naleśnikowo 89 National Maritime Museum Main Branch 69 National Museum, Old Art Department 70 Neon Streetfood Bar 102 Neptun Taxi (Gdańsk) 19 Niemięsny Muka Bar 92 Novotel Centrum 136 Novotel Gdańsk Marina 136 Ocneba 96 Old Lighthouse 59 Olivia Star Observation Deck 55 Oliwa Cathedral 54 Oliwa Park 55 Oliwski 138 Ołowianka Island 33 Orlowska43 139 ORP 'Błyskawica' Battleship 65, 71 Papugarnia 75 Parlament 113 Pasta Miasta 104

FEATURES INDEX Adult Entertainment Breakfast Car & Bike Share Crooked House Danzig/Gdańsk Street Names Forest Opera Garnizon Reborn Gdańsk in Books Gdańsk Tourist Card Günter Grass Health & Emergency Lech Walesa Live Music in the Docks Monciak Polish Alcohol Something in the Water Sunday Shopping Ban Tri-City By Bike ul. Wajdeloty Useful Tools & Apps 142

113 83 19 116 21 60 49 126 70 46 132 37 110 58 107 122 124 75 48 20

Patio Español 92 Perfumeria Quality Missala 128 Pierogarnia Mandu 90 Pierogarnia Pierożek 105 Pierogarnia Stary Młyn 90 Piñata 89 PING PONG 50 Piroman Steak House 98 Piwnica Rajców 112 PKM 21 Pobite Gary 50 Podewils 134 Poland By Locals - Bike Tour 73 Polish Post Office Museum 43, 70 Pomelo Bistro 83 Prana Spa by Thao Thai 122 Protokultura 110 Przystanek Kawa 81 Pub Polskie Kino 112 Pueblo 105 Puro Gdańsk 136 Q Hotel Grand Cru 136 Quadrille 134 Qubus Hotel 136 Radisson Blu 134 Radisson Hotel & Suites Gdańsk 134 Restauracja Grand Cru 86 Restauracja Gvara 90 Restauracja Pak Choi 94 Restauracja Sztuczka 103 Restauracja Ukraineczka 100 Restaurant Café Polskie Smaki 99 Restaurant No. 88 100 Retro Cafe 81 Retro Tour Gdańsk 72 Rezydent 134 Ristorante Con Giardino 55 Ristorante La Cucina 88 Rock Shop 128 Romanesque Cellar 70 Room of Plenty 73 Różany Gaj 136 San Marco 88 Santo Porto Magda Gessler 103 Scandic Gdańsk 137 Seafood Station Restaurant 96 Sea Towers 139 Serio 104 Sfinks700 116 Sheraton Sopot Hotel 134 Shipyard Directorate 39 SKM 21 Śliwka w Kompot 117 Słony Spichlerz - Restaurant Market 34, 87 Sofitel Grand Sopot 135 Sopot 737 L'entre Villes Restaurant 97 Sopot Fort 76 Sopot Marriott Resort & Spa 135 Sopot Museum 71 Sopot Pier 59 South Park 59 Spatif 117

SS 'Sołdek' Museum Ship 34, 70 Stacja Sopot 98 Stągiewna Gate 34 Stary Maneż Browar Vrest 47 St. Mary's Basilica 31 St. Mary's Gate 30 Stone Hill Funicular 67 Surf Burger 95 Swiętego Ducha Street 32 Swojski Smak 90 Szafa Gdańska 126 Sztuka Wyboru 50 Szubieniczna Góra 48 Talixo 19 Tandoor House 95 Tapas De Rucola 116 Tawerna 84 T-Bone Steakhouse 92 Teatr Boto 100 Tekstylia 87 Tesoro 98 Tesoro Express 98 Thai Thai 84 Thao Thai 122 The Docker's Inn 119 The Golden House 29 The Grand Hotel 60 The Great Armoury 32 The Polish Baltic Philharmonic 33 The Royal Granary 34 The Spa at Sheraton Sopot 122 The Spa House 60 Tłok 104 Torwar Jazz & Wino 117 Trader's Gate 32 Traficar Car Share 19 True Restaurant 87 Tutam 50 Ul. Mariacka 30 Upland Gate 26 Urban Spa 122 Vegan Burger Bar/ Curry House 105 Villa Antonina 138 Villa Baltica 137 Westerplatte 43 Whiskey on the Rocks 116 White Marlin 98 Willa Lubicz 103, 137 Willa Wincent 139 Wine Bar Literacka 112 Winne Grono 87 Wiśniewski 112 Wolne Miasto 138 World War II Museum 42, 70 Wozownia Gdańska 90 Wtedy 117 Wydział Remontowy 110 Zafishowani 85 Zhong Hua 137 Zła Kobieta 116

BAŁTYCKAAUTUMN IT’S TIME FOR NEW COLLECTIONS!

AL. GRUNWALDZKA 141

GDAŃSK

Gdańsk In Your Pocket - Autumn 2019

Articles inside

World War II in Gdańsk

Solidarity - Gdańsk