Gdansk (Gdynia & Sopot) In Your Pocket City Guide Summer 2023

GDAŃSK

AN IMMERSIVE GUIDEBOOK FOR INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

INCLUDES

Sopot & Gdynia

Walking tours

Local dishes

Transit tips

Much more!

From the editor

I was recently in Germany doing some typically touristy stuff, and had the chance to converse with travellers from as far abroad as my own country of Australia. Whilst Kraków and Warsaw are still on the itinerary of many of these folks, I’m still astounded to hear that they’ve never heard of Gdańsk (or its German equivalent ‘Danzig’). While part of me is disappointed, another part is excited by the prospect of my Baltic city of residence still retaining a ‘best-kept secret’ status. Furthermore, it's exciting to see cool new ventures popping up around the place, most notably Montownia, a WWII-era U-boat hall in the historic shipyards (p.54) that has finally been dusted off and revitalised as a food hall and events venue. As a Sydney-sider of origin, being close to the beach is important to me, and I’m happy to share some tips with you on p.14. Going beyond the Tri-city area, we encourage you to consider taking a day trip to one of the many regional gems (p.92) like the medieval wonderland of Toruń (p.94) and the largest sand dunes in Europe (p.93). As always, all content in this guide has been faithfully updated with all the necessary information for you to explore everything the Tri-city has to offer on your own.

PUBLISHER

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. Ul. Karmelicka 46/51

31-128 Kraków, Poland

www.iyp.com.pl

poland@inyourpocket.com

CIRCULATION

10,000 copies

STAFF

Editor:

Pierre Duyker

Editor-in chief: Garrett Van Reed

Sales:

Bartek Matyjas

(+48) 784 966 824

Marketing:

Monika Boguszewska-Stopka

(+48) 728 879 494

Research:

Karolina Adamik, Anna Janus

Design:

Marcin Jakubionek

Maps: Tomáš Haman

Cover image: Neptune fountain on Długi Targ; Canva Pro

COPYRIGHT NOTICE

All content copyright IYP CIty Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without express written consent from the publisher.

Pierre is an Australian living in Gdańsk. He first came to Poland in 2010 and, after several subsequent trips here, chose to settle in the Tri-city area due to its unique history and close proximity to the beach! In his spare time, he enjoys going to concerts and writing music for indie computer games.

The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). .

No. 63, Summer 2023

How to Use This Guide

Gdańsk In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, inspiration, tools and information you need to explore the Tri-city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and truly connect with the places you’re visiting.

Our guidebook primarily consists of two types of content: Essentials & Walking Tours

Essentials

Read these features to gain a the most essential sights, experiences, tastes and touchstones of the Tri-city. priorities and plan your time.

QR Codes lead you to our website when there’s more worth knowing than fits in print.

Walking Tours

Follow these to find all of the most interesting and important sites, and learn what makes them worthy of inclusion. Be your own tour guide.

Choose your adventure

the route based on

Map coordinates correlate to the grid on the walking tour maps, or the Gdańsk City Centre map on the inside cover, so you can gauge the distance between points and never get lost.

Editor’s Picks

As you go through the guide, keep an eye out for these icons next to venues that we personally recommend for the following

The Honeymooders

Romantic spots recommended for couples.

The Kinderguardian

Fun places designed for families and kids.

The Sophisticationer

Niche places for history buffs and culture hounds.

The Offbeatnik

Alternative, artsy or obscure places for urban adventurers.

Welcome to the Tri-city!

While this guidebook is snappily named Gdańsk In Your Pocket, it actually covers the region that locals refer to as Trójmiasto, or the Tri-city. Quite simply, the Tri-city consists of three separate cities - Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia - each proudly independent, each with its own city government, and, most importantly, each with its own unique history. All three are positioned along the Baltic coast, with Gdańsk in the south, Gdynia in the north, and only about 20km of shoreline separating them - in the middle of which is Sopot.

To wrap your head around this whole 'Tri-city' situation, see the map on the inside cover!

With each city extremely well-connected via public transport (p.35), it’s not uncommon for locals to spend the day at the beach in Gdynia, have dinner in Gdańsk and go out for drinks afterwards in Sopot, for example. Though steady development over the last 70+ years has essentially turned the Tri-city into one continuous coastal conurbation, each city, and each district of each city, has retained its own unique character, which is what makes hopping between them so rewarding in the first place. This guide encourages you to do just that, with detailed information organised by district. Before you hit the streets, however, let’s get some background on where you’ve just arrived.

1. GDAŃSK

The oldest, largest, and most well-known member of the Tri-city, Gdańsk has been a culturally diverse, cosmopolitan city for centuries. In fact, locals have historically described themselves not by nationality, but as 'Danzigers' (to use the German name) or 'Gdańszczanin' (to use the Polish), demonstrating the unique nature of this free-thinking city. Founded by Polish ruler Mieszko I in the 10th century to be part of a coastal trade route, Gdańsk has changed hands innumerably over the centuries, but remained a major port through it all. It's even been its own city-state twice in history, most notably as the 'Free City of Danzig' (1920-1939).

As the main tourist destination in the region, Gdańsk offers visitors a gloriously rebuilt Old Town (p.38), complete with cobbled streets, stunning Renaissance architecture and a picturesque riverfront. Rich in history and maritime culture, Gdańsk was also the scene of two of the key moments of the 20th century: it was here that the first shots of WWII were fired (p.28), and the first cracks in the Iron Curtain were forced open by the Solidarity social movement (p.55) forty years later. Today, arguably the city’s two most important attractions are the peerless World War II Museum (p.32), and the European Solidarity Centre (p.57), which you'll find near the historic Gdańsk Shipyards).

2. SOPOT

One of the most famous, fashionable towns in Poland, Sopot’s modern history began with the building of a bathhouse and spa by a retired doctor in the early 19th century. The spa town quickly grew - first as part of the German Empire, then the Free City of Danzig - as Sopot became the preferred playground for Europe’s ruling classes, many of whom had summer homes here. Today, Sopot’s sandy beaches, top-class hotels and spas,

and kilometres of bike paths and forest trails have kept it a popular place for relaxation, but it’s also known for its energetic nightlife making it the Tri-city’s primary party destination. Lined with bars, restaurants and clubs (p.80), the main pedestrian thoroughfare - known locally as ‘Monciak’ - is one of the most happening places anywhere in the summer, leading hundreds of tourists to the city’s packed beaches and iconic pier (p.78).

3. GDYNIA

Gdynia was a quiet fishing village until the League of Nations created the ‘Free City of Danzig’ out of Gdańsk and Sopot in 1919. Finding itself at the end of the 'Polish Corridor,' a narrow strip of land that gave newly-independent Poland much-needed sea access, Gdynia became the focus of intense development, and by 1926 a new port city had emerged on the Baltic. Built to embody Polish autonomy and challenge the influence of Gdańsk,

Gdynia plays the yang to Gdańsk’s ying even today. A true 20th-century city, the city’s architecture reflects its development during the 1920-30s Modernist period, the post-war Socialist era and the modern post-communist era. Boasting some beautiful coastline and a diversity of restaurants and bars (p.91), enjoy exploring Gdynia’s beaches, waterfront and marina, and make a visit to the incredibly moving Emigration Museum (p.85).

Photo by Patryk Kosmider.

beginning here with a cheat sheet of the area’s absolutely most unmissable places to go and things to do.

1 Walk the Royal Way in Gdańsk

Stroll through the Old Town of Gdańsk along the former path of kings, taking in the city’s grandiose architecture, historical monuments and charming atmosphere en route to the riverfront. More on p.40.

2 Explore the Shipyards

Learn how Gdańsk Shipyard workers instigated the downfall of the communist system, and see how the shipyards today have transformed into an alternative place for art, music and gastronomy. More on p.54.

3 Sand & Sun at the Beach

The Tri-city provides plenty of natural coastline, with beaches ranging from remote to pristine to crowded, and the entire spectrum in between. Whichever you choose, no trip to the area is complete without a barefoot stroll across the sand, watching the waves. More on p.14.

4 The World War II Museum

Dig deep into the greatest armed conflict in modern human history at this immersive museum, fittingly located in the city where it all officially began. One of the finest museums in Europe. More on p.32.

5 Stroll Sopot’s High Street & Pier

The small spa town of Sopot is Poland’s summer capital. Catch the buzz along its high street, walk to the end of Europe’s longest wooden pier, relax on the beach and embrace the nightlife! More on p74.

6 The Emigration Museum

Explaining the dynamic history of Polish emigration, this fascinating portside museum located in a modernist 1930s railway station in Gdynia is a must for members of the Polish diaspora and their loved ones. More on p.85.

7 Oliwa Park & Cathedral

This 10ha suburban park north of Gdańsk is a lovely place to spend an afternoon outdoors, strolling, picnicking and snapping photos. Attractions include the palm house, several gardens, a palace, the ethnographic museum, zoo and spectacular 12th-century cathedral. More on p.68.

8 Gdańsk’s Amber Street Market

Gdańsk’s pleasantly subdued Mariacka Street is a picturesque lane lined with amber galleries and jewellery workshops. A charming setting to search for that piece of amber that speaks to you. More on p.42.

Brilliantly blending history, culture, nature and leisure, the Tri-city and surrounding seacoast have a lot to offer tourists, especially during the high season. It’s enough to flummox some itinerary makers, or fill an exasperatingly long guide such as this one. That’s why we’ve tried to hit upon the thematic highlights over the next several spreads,

Tri-city’s Best Beaches

A trip to the beach, whether with the intention of swimming, sunbathing, playing in the sand or going for a sunset walk, is absolutely obligatory when in the Tri-city area. Let’s take a look at the character of some of the most notable beaches nearby, so you can choose the one that’s best for you.

Brzeźno Beach

Your closest option to Gdańsk’s Old Town. On a sunny day, Brzeźno attracts more visitors than Sopot, and the jungle of communist-era residential blocks and company-owned hotels in close proximity probably explains why. The area features a 130-metre leisure pier, snack bars, a Blue Flag cleanliness certificate, facilities for the disabled, and an open-air disco polo bar blasting pop tunes all day and night for a crowd of local party people.

Summary: Big and spacious, but also quite packed.

Getting there: From Gdańsk, take tram 3 to ‘Brzeźno Dom Zdrojowy’ (27mins) and you’re 300m from the beach, about 1km from the pier.

Jelitkowo Beach

Just further north  from Brzeźno, Jelitkowo is fronted by plenty of late 19th-century villas, a legacy of the area capitalising on its spa resort status. More recently, the walking/cycling paths have been integrated with some nice greenery, and Jelitkowski Park is worth a drop-in for nature lovers. There are some decent cafes and food options along the way that exceed the standard of those in Brzeźno, and the beach itself comes with showers and lifeguards.

Sobieszewo Island

Our personal favourite near Gdańsk. Cut off from the mainland during an engineering project in 1895, this ‘island’ is bookended by nature preserves and offers 11km of undisturbed seafront, with the exception of two spots offering toilets, showers, changing rooms and lifeguards (July and Aug only) at beach entrances 11 and 16 (near Hotel Orle). 15km east of Gdańsk’s Old Town, Sobieszewo is perfect for nature lovers (and amber hunters), as there are far fewer people.

Summary:  Big and spacious like Brzeźno, but less crowded.

Getting there: From Gdańsk, take tram 2, 6 or 8 about 35mins to the end of the line and you’re about 500m from the beach.

Summary: Isolated and wild, with limited infrastructure; consider bringing your own food and drink..

Getting there:  From Gdańsk, take bus 112 or 186 for 50+mins to any number of stops from which you’re about a 12min walk from the beach.

The Wisła River meets the Baltic Sea on the east side of Sobieszewo Island.

Searching for amber in sadly typical Baltic beach attire.

Sopot Beaches

Sopot (p.74) is historically associated with its spa resort, and the beachfront has a lot to do with that. You’ll find all walks of life here, from locals to Poland’s big-city elite, plus Swedish and German tourists. For this reason, the beaches around the famous pier are usually packed, and, as a general rule, the further north you move towards Gdynia, the more space you’ll find. We highly recommend getting your hands on a bike, as the inland cycling paths are absolutely wonderful, and will expand your choice and access to the many beach bars/restaurants along the coast. In the summer, there are beachfront activities aplenty - boat cruises, waterskiing, beach football and volleyball tournaments, just to name a few.

Summary: If you’re here to party, get amongst the action on the central beach. If not, (st)ride north for more space.

Getting there: From Gdańsk, take the SKM train to ‘Sopot’ station, which is a 19min journey, then a 1km/10-15min walk to the beach.

Gdynia Beaches

Gdynia’s coastal area can be broken down into three main areas. Orłowo (p.89), the furthest south, offers a picturesque pier and coastal parkland, and is considerably more familyorientated than Sopot. The iconic Orłowski Cliff and old fishing boats on the sand make this more rugged coastal backdrop popular with wedding photographers. The forest trail heading north is worth considering if you have the time; keep an eye out for WWII bunkers on your way to Redłowoour favourite part of Gdynia’s coast. Redłowo’s relatively remote location coupled with a few hundred metres of forest to hike through is dissuasive enough for most locals and tourists, meaning the beach is mostly empty compared to Plaża Miejska (City Beach) - Gdynia’s central beach further north. The go-to place for many locals, with a tonne of bars, restaurants and convenience stores nearby, Plaża Miejska is always packed in summer, with volleyball tournaments and live music events an extra drawcard (p.88).

Summary:

If you want to people-watch with a drink in your hand, Plaża Miejska is the place; for swimming or scenic walks, Orłowo and Redłowo are ideal.

Getting there:

Take the SKM train to ‘Gdynia Orłowo’ (26mins from Gdańsk, 500m to beach) or ‘Gdynia Główna’ (34mins from Gdańsk, 20mins to the beach) stations.

Gdynia Plaża Miejska; photo by K. Romański.

Gdynia Redłowo.

Gdynia Orłowo.

Local Flavours & Spirits

Gastronomy in Gdańsk and the surrounding region is a microcosm of Polish, German, Kashubian and Scandinavian culinary traditions, supplemented by the bounty of the Baltic Sea and a long tradition of brewing beer and distilling spirits. The result is a culinary profile that separates itself from the rest of Poland and offers many uniquely local opportunities for dining and drinking. What follows is basically an edible itinerary and to-do list of tipples. Smacznego, and na zdrowie!

2 Pierogi

The national dish of Poland, the Tri-city loves its dumplings with many different fillings. The most common are ruskie (Russian) - with potato and cottage cheese, z kapustą i grzybami - with pickled cabbage and forest mushrooms, and z mięsem - with minced meat, but also keep an eye out locally for z dorszem - with cod fish. A surefire way to get a feed in fussy kids, you’ll also find sweet fruit-filled dessert pierogi almost everywhere dumplings are served.

TRY IT HERE:

Pierogarnia Mandu - B-4, ul. Elżbietańska 4/8, Gdańsk; K-4, ul. Kaprów 19D, Gdańsk Oliwa; Q-3, ul. Starowiejska 1, Gdynia.

1 Fresh Fish

Although it’s obvious, we’ll say it aloud - the Tricity is on the Baltic Sea, therefore you’re right at the source of Poland’s fishing industry. You’ll find fresh seafood everywhere from beachside bars to fine dining restaurants to market halls like Hala Targowa in Gdańsk and Gdynia. The most popular catches are dorsz (cod), mintaj (pollock), flądra (flounder), łosoś (salmon), makrela (mackerel), szprotki (sprats) and śledź (herring).

TRY IT HERE:

Zafishowani - D-5, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdańsk. Targ Rybny - D-5, Targ Rybny 6C, Gdańsk.

3 Pajda ze smalcem

Poles, but particularly Pomeranians, love to slather savoury smalec (animal fat) on their bread, and chunky lard with bread is a popular complimentary starter at restaurants. In summertime pajda ze smalcem is almost as popular as ice cream, and is served from street food stands on large slabs of sourdough bread with pickles. A meal in itself, if you don’t indulge in meat, you might be able to get your pajda (Polish for a large hunk of bread) z masłem cznosnkowym (with garlic butter), which is also delicious.

TRY IT HERE:

Tri-city food fairs and street food stands.

Pierogi z jagodami (blueberry pierogi).

Smalec, the original tubalard/tub of lard.

Another mouthwatering cod piece (dorsz).

Kashubian Specialties

1 Śledź Po Kaszubsku

Arguably the most recognisable dish from the region, śledź po kaszubsku (Kashubian-style pickled herring) combines two of Kashubia’s favourite ingredients - herring and raisins. Variations may have pickles, cream and even chopped apple thrown into the mix, but the first two are essential.

TRY IT HERE:

Home to seacoast, lakes and forests, the countryside just west of the Tri-city is called ‘Kashubia’ - a rural mix of Polish and German, known for its own unique language, customs and cuisine. Here are the Tri-city’s best Kashubian restaurants: Tawerna Mestwin - D-5, ul. Straganiarska 20/23, Gdańsk.

Polskie Smaki - N-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10 (Sheraton Hotel), Sopot.

2 Goose

Geese and dishes with goose meat are a common sight on Kashubian dinner tables - a result of widespread goose farming in Pomerania. Piersniczi, for example, is pickled/ marinated goose breast that is smoked with juniper and fruitwood. Obôna, or okrasa in Polish, is raw goose meat prepared as a paste with lard, and used on sandwiches, in soups, and as a side with many breakfast orders in Tri-city restaurants. Gęś pomorska pieczona is a roasted whole goose with a uniquely fruity aroma, thanks to being prepared with apples!

3 Ruchanki Kaszubskie

Oval-shaped pancakes, traditionally made from rye dough, pan-fried and served with jam and whipped cream. Popular in the Carnival period (the last period of indulgence before Lent begins), chopped apples are often added to the dough to give it some natural sweetness. No doubt the kids will love these.

Kashubian-style herring; courtesy of Kafëbë.

Kashubian breakfast with goose pate; courtesy of Kafëbë.

Ruchanki; courtesy of Kafëbë.

Must-try Tipples & Alcohol

2 Nalewki

Although Poland is most often associated with clear, potato-based vodka, flavoured tinctures made from fruit, herbs and spicesknown as nalewki - are arguably more popular, and certainly more palatable. Flavours can range from cherry to quince to hazelnut, and many restaurants and bars make their own house batches. More for sipping than shooting, make sure that you expand your knowledge of vodka and its many varieties beyond the clear stuff.

TRY IT HERE:

Wiśniewski - C-6, ul. Piwna 22, Gdansk.

Na Drugą Nóżkę - N-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot.

1 Local Craft Beer

Without a doubt the most Germanic thing to rub off on Polish society, 16th-century Danzig grew to dominate the regional brewing market with some 400 breweries in operation, most located on aptly-named ul. Piwna (Beer Street). While Poland is still stereotyped as a nation of vodka drinkers, the numbers show that far more beer is consumed today. Gdańsk has embraced its roots and global craft beer trends, reopening several historic 'bier kellers' as modern microbreweries in recent years. Multitap bars, brew pubs and microbreweries have popped up across Pomerania, and some local beer brands have gone national, including AleBrowar and Browar Amber.

TRY IT HERE:

Brovarnia - D-6, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk.

Piwnica Rajców - C-6, Długi Targ 44, Gdańsk.

Browar PG4 - B-4, Podwale Grodzkie 4, Gdańsk. Nowy Browar Gdański - F-4, Jana Kilińskiego 7E, Gdańsk Wrzeszcz.

AleBrowar - P-3, ul. Starowiejska 40B, Gdynia.

3 Machandel

Once described as the 'State Drink of Danzig,' Machandel is a strong juniper-based liqueur with a smooth taste and firm kick. Originally produced by the Stobbe family in the nearby town of Tiegenhof (now Nowy Dwór Gdański) Machandel had been out of production since WWII, but has recently been revived using the original recipe and is once again available in select Gdańsk restaurants.

TRY IT HERE:

Goldwasser Restaurant - D-6, ul. Długie

Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk.

Pre-war ad demonstrating the proper way to drink Machandel.

Bottoms up in Nowy Browar Gdański.

4 Okowita

Also known as bimber, the word 'okowita' comes from the Latin 'Aqua Vitae,' a spirit distilled 3 times to achieve an alcoholic strength of up to 80%. Okowita arrived in Poland in the 16th century via either Germany or Italy, originally being available mainly to the wealthy bourgeoisie. Also produced from grain or potatoes, it is notably more aromatic than vodka, and has thus maintained its status amongst the most refined of spirit connoisseurs!

TRY IT HERE:

Podole Wielkie i Przyjaciele - C-6, ul. Chlebnicka 37/38, Gdańsk.

5 Goldwasser

A celebrated Gdańsk tradition since 1598, Goldwasser is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in the world, Goldwasser’s secret recipe contains some 20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint. This is the ultimate souvenir of Gdańsk, and can be consumed in numerous restaurants and bars around Tri-city.

TRY IT HERE:

Goldwasser Restaurant - D-6, ul. Długie

Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk.

Tłusta Kaczka - Q-12, ul. Spółdzielcza 2, Gdynia Orłowo.

Ahh, okowita...'The Water of Life'...

Tri-city Gifts & Souvenirs

It’s only natural to want to pick up a local souvenir, or find a nice gift that shows your friends and loved ones you were thinking about them while away. The key to success is knowing what the region you’re in is notable for and knowing where to look. Here’s hoping our suggestions help you find an ideal item that represents your experience in the Tri-city region, supports the local economy, and won’t spend its future days in the back of a drawer. Happy hunting!

1 Amber

At the absolute top of any such list would be amber, otherwise known as 'Baltic gold.' Gathered and prized for its colour and beauty since the beginning of humankind’s existence in the area, amber is actually the resin of ancient trees that has been buried in sedimentary rock and, after millions of years, washes up on the beach in the form of a semi-transparent golden-hued gemstone. Amber often astounds us with its 'inclusions' of prehistoric insects and plant matter suspended inside. The creation of amber jewellery and works of art is a tradition that has existed in the Tri-city since the Middle Ages. You’ll find many charming amber galleries along Gdańsk’s ul. Mariacka (p.42), or check out the gift shop of the Amber Museum (p.45).

2 Kashubian Handicrafts

The Tri-city is where Kashubians, one of the largest surviving ethnic minorities in Europe, have been plying their trades for centuries. Described as a cultural mix of Polish and German, Kashubians particularly pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just five colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, the latter of which comes in three distinct shades. Distinct regional folk patterns in these colours can be found on everything from clothes to ceramics. Kashubian handicraft masters are also known for

3 Local Spirits

Poland has distilling and draining quality vodka since the Middle Ages, and as such it makes a perfect last-minute duty-free purchase. Gdańsk, however, boasts several unique local spirits

their wood carvings and handwoven baskets. A wonderful place to get such fine, folky things is Galeria Sztuki Kaszubskiej - a small family gallery found at ul. Św. Ducha 48 in Gdańsk (C-5).

you’ll be challenged to find elsewhere (see p.22). Most famous among them is Goldwasser - one of the oldest liqueurs in the world, dating back to the late 16th century. Characterised by the 22-karat gold flakes floating in it, the secret recipe contains some 20 roots and herbs, combined to create a sweet-yet-spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint. You can pick up a bottle at the official Goldwasser Restaurant on the Old Town Waterfront (D-6, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22).

A lesser-known spirit from Gdańsk is Machandel, a strong juniper-based liqueur with a smooth taste and firm kick. Recently revived after being out of production for 60+ years, you'll also find it for sale at the Goldwasser Restaurant; see above. Similarly, Okowita - the region’s own version of Aqua Vitae from another epoch - has also made a return to the market, and you can pick up a bottle of this high percentage aromatic spirit from Podole Wielkie in Gdańsk Old Town (C-6, ul. Chlebnicka 37/38).

Shots of Goldwasser; courtesy of Wyspa Północ restaurant.

4 Solidarity Swag

Solidarność (Solidarity) is a Polish trade union born out of the shipyards of Gdańsk, which was the first independent organisation to be recognised behind the Iron Curtain. Making headlines across the world for resisting (and ultimately triumphing) against the communist system in the 1980s, Gdańsk and the iconic

5 Books about Gdańsk

Undoubtedly the most famous novel set in Gdańsk/Danzig is The Tin Drum by Günter Grass, about a disillusioned prodigal child who, amidst the political turmoil of the interwar-period, refuses to grow up. Indeed, much of the novel was inspired by Grass’ own experiences as a resident of the city. The book is part of what has now become known as the author’s Danzig Trilogy.

red 'Solidarność' logo are now inseparable, and you’ll find no shortage of merchandise and memorabillia all over the city. Outside of small vendors and souvenir shops in the Old Town, you can pick up T-shirts, mugs, USB drives, and much, much more at the European Solidarity Centre (p.57). Buying from the gift shop at the Solidarity-staffed BHP Building  museum (p.57), however, apparently goes straight to supporting the trade union.

Famous local resident and former Prime Minister Donald Tusk has written a number of marvellous black-and-white 'photo essays' documenting life and architecture in the Tri-City before, during and in the immediate aftermath of WWII; his  Był Sobie Gdańsk (There Once Was A Gdańsk) series is perfect for anyone interested in the region. Contrasting dramatically, but just as fascinating, is local photographer Maciej Kosycarz’s book Niezwykłe Zwykłe Zdjecia (Unusual Ordinary Photos) - a collection of photographs taken by Maciej’s father Zbigniew, who photographed the Tri-city between 1945 and 1990, and photos taken by Maciej himself from the early 1990s until 2007. Through images of daily life, this is a fly-on-the-wall insight into life in a healing post-war Gdańsk under communist rule and onwards.

Political poster portraying the 1989 elections as 'high noon.'

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments

MARK STORIES OF YOUR LIFE BY CREATING UNIQUE ENGRAVED JEWELERY

GDAŃSK 126 Ogarna Street, MATARNIA 26 Złota Karczma Street,

GDYNIA 56 Świętojańska Street, RIVIERA 2 Kazimierza Górskiego Street

lilou.pl

/bemylilou /bemylilou

World War II Legacy

World War II looms large over the Tri-city, and a certain degree of knowledge about the region’s role in the conflict is essential for understanding its historical significance and contemporary character. Only two decades after what had been erroneously referred to as 'The War to End All Wars,' World War II would prove to be the most global and most deadly conflict in human history. And it began right here in Gdańsk....

Długi Targ and the Main Town Hall in ruin, 1945.

PRELUDE

Gdańsk (then Danzig) had long been caught in a tug-of-war between Germany and Poland, and the decision by the League of Nations to make it a Free City State following World War I left neither side happy. While the two communities continued to live together as they had for centuries, politically speaking, Danzig was very much divided: the Germans controlled the State senate, the police and much of the business, while the Poles dominated the railways, port authority and even had their own postal service. After the election of Hitler in neighbouring Germany, bitter rivalries came to the surface, anti-Polish sentiment spread rapidly, and by 1935 the local police force had started keeping tabs on any Pole seen as a threat to German interests.

The rise in tensions wasn’t a shock to the Poles. In 1925, the League of Nations bowed to pressure and consented to the deployment of a token 88-man Polish force across the water from the Free City on the Polish-controlled Westerplatte Peninsula (p.33). As Hitler’s posturing became ever more threatening, the Poles continued to covertly strengthen their foothold, smuggling in military hardware and secretly building fortifications in breach of League of Nations decrees.

OUTBREAK

On August 31, 1939, Nazi units dressed in Polish uniform infamously staged a mock attack on a radio tower in the German border town of Gleiwitz (now Polish 'Gliwice,' in Upper Silesia). Photos of the charade were flashed across the world, with Hitler claiming a provocative attack by the Polish army. The following dawn, Germany launched a strike on Westerplatte, an attack that would ultimately kick off World War II. Popular theory asserts the first shots of the war were fired from the German warship the SMS Schleswig Holstein, supposedly visiting Gdańsk on a goodwill mission. In actual fact, logbooks recovered by the Nowy Port Lighthouse across the water from Westerplatte prove beyond doubt that the German battleship was pre-empted by a matter of three minutes by a Nazi gun emplacement halfway up the lighthouse. Shocked, but ready, the Poles scored a direct hit on the lighthouse, thus in all likelihood making the German lighthouse gunners the first casualties in a war that would go on to claim

55 million lives. The German shelling of Westerplatte was simultaneously supported by infantry attacks on the Westerplatte gateway, with the Polish defenders repelling repeated advances by German navy storm troopers. At precisely the same time, another equally ferocious battle was being waged at the Polish post office building (p.32) in Gdańsk’s then-named Hevelius Square. Detachments of German police and SS laid siege to the 50 Polish post workers inside, who put up a brave struggle for over 17 hours until casualties became intolerable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with flamethrowers.

SIEGE

Yet while the post office capitulated, the garrison at Westerplatte held on. As for backup, the Polish navy in Gdynia (Poland) unfortunately failed to mobilise, while the air force based in Puck was destroyed before they could get off the ground. Polish customs officers succeeded in blowing up the bridge in nearby Tczew and slowed the German advance. Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 3rd, but hopes of outside help being directed to Poland proved ill-founded. On the morning of September 7, Major

Henryk Sucharski gave the order to raise the white flag. Gdynia surrendered two weeks later, and would be later renamed Gotenhafen (literally meaning 'Goth Port'). The Hel peninsula - the final Polish stronghold in Pomerania - fell on the 2nd of October, by which time Poland had been invaded from the east by the Soviet Union. Ironically, Hel (p.93), would also be the last place the Nazis would relinquish in 1945.

SMS Schleswig Holstein shelling Westerplatte, September 1, 1939.

UNDER THE REICH

Despite his oft-spoken desire to incorporate Danzig into the Reich, Hitler made only two visits to the Tri-city, apparently due to his deep suspicion of Danzigers and fear of assassination. The second of these visits came on September 18, 1939, with an exultant Führer arriving in Sopot (then 'Zoppot') via his armoured train, and checking into the Kasino Hotel (today the Sofitel Grand, see p.78). His stay lasted a week, during which time he received a delegation from Japan, visited the Schleswig-Holstein, Westerplatte and inspected a parade outside Artus Court on Gdańsk’s Long Market (p.40).

By that time, fervent Nazis were already clamouring to rid the region of all traces of Polonisation. The Polish intelligentsia and other political targets were arrested and incarcerated in numerous camps and prisons, including the Victoriaschule (ul. Kładki 1, B-5), the city jail (now replaced by a newer model) and Stutthof - later to morph into a notorious concentration camp (p.93). Flags, signs and anything remotely Polish was destroyed.

Governor and Gauleiter of the region was Albert Forster, and his reign still arouses controversy and debate among both scholars and survivors. Unlike other Gauleiters in annexed and occupied territories, Forster followed a programme of assimilation, granting thousands of locals German citizenship if they swore German heritage. Even more remarkably, those Poles rounded up and persecuted in the first wave of arrests could seek German citizenship, and even pursue restitution for any property originally seized. Benign by some benchmarks, Forster was a model Nazi on others. Jews faced merciless persecution, Stutthof emerged as a true place of terror and he is thought to have personally given the execution orders for over 2,000 Poles between 1939 and 1940. Eventually caught on the Hel Peninsula while trying to flee west, his death remains a mystery - some claim he was hanged in Biskupia Góra after the war, while others insist it was his body double. Yet more sources claim he was taken to Warsaw’s Mokotów Prison and beaten to death. The truth may never be confirmed.

FINALE

For ordinary Danzigers, the quality of life remained relatively good for much of the war. Sopot was a favourite stomping ground for Nazi soldiers on R&R, and in spite of rationing and occasional shortages, life didn’t get worse for many locals until the closing stages. The first signs that all was not well came with Allied air raids on the Shipyards - home to munitions factories producing U-Boats and V1 and V2 rocketsand the Zaspa Airfield. By 1945, Danzig’s population had swelled to 1.5 million due to refugees fleeing from the east, the Red Army was fast approaching, and the city was on the precipice of chaos as it became a regular target for bombing raids. Authorities designated Danzig a closed Nazi fortress, or Festung, and its defence proved bitter and bloody. Historian Antony Beevor wrote of the ensuing siege: ‘Fighter bombers strafed the towns and port areas. Soviet Shturmoviks treated civilian and military targets alike. A church was as good as a bunker, especially when it seemed as if the objective was to flatten every building which still protruded conspicuously above the ground... Tens of thousands of women and children, terrified of losing their places in the queues to escape, provided unmissable targets.’

Sopot fell on March 23, Gdynia on March 28. Encircled and out-powered, Danzig was given the opportunity to surrender, but continued fighting; that fires were burning a month later is testament to the ferocity of the siege. The Red Army finally entered the city on March 30. Gdańsk/Danzig, scene of the first shots of the war, now lay ablaze and in ruins. Furthermore, the city's 'liberators' were the foreshadowing of Poland's next chapter - the Polish People's Republic (PRL) and 44 years of communist rule.

German soldiers laying siege to the Polish Post Office, 1939.

Worth Visiting

WWII Museum

A 15min walk north of the Old Town, this is Gdańsk’s top museum. As such, you need to plan your visit. Entrances are timed and tickets should be bought in advance from their website. Those interested in the topic can easily spend a whole day there, and we recommend you allot yourself at least 3 hours. We strongly recommend spending the extra 12zł on the excellent multilingual audioguide. The heart of the museum is the permanent exhibition which is split into three parts – 'The Road to War,' 'The Long Shadow of War' and 'The Horrors of War.' In addition, there is an exhibition for children, 'Travel Through Time,' which is set in a pre-war era classroom and a temporary exhibit. Numerous films, photographs and excellent translations improve

the experience, but it's the collection of donated artefacts highlighting personal tragedies that make the biggest impression. Aside from the museum's broad international scope, there is also an emphasis on the Tri-city's wartime experience and the war's lasting legacy for Poland and its people. Make the time, get your tickets and don’t miss this one. Visiting time: 4hrs.

E‑4, Pl. Władysława Bartoszewskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 760 09 60, www.muzeum1939.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Tue 10:00 16:00; closed Mon. 1 Jul 31 Aug open 10:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 29/22zł; family ticket 65zł; Tue free.

T­U

Museum of the Polish Post Office

The site of the famed siege, where some 50 heavily-armed postal workers bravely stood their ground against the German SS over the course of 17 gruelling hours, today the Polish Post Office is still just that - a post

Defenders of the Polish Post Office monument.

office - but also a small-but-compelling museum dedicated to the events of September 1, 1939 (as well as local postal history from the 18th century!). An impressive stainless steel monument outside the Post Office honours their sacrifice, which has become one of the most romanticised tales of heroism in Polish history. If you aren’t up for the WWII Museum, this is a worthwhile (and much less ambitious) back-up option. Visiting time: 40mins.

D‑4, pl. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej 1 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 31 28, www.muzeumgdansk.pl. Open 10:00 16:00; Thu 10:00 18:00. Admission 15/10zł, Mon free.

Westerplatte

Westerplatte first sprang to fame as a health resort in the mid-19th century, before achieving infamy as the Polish military zone where the opening shots of WWII were exchanged. Today, the site is a historical park and memorial featuring a scattering of bunkers, burnt-out ruins, an enormous communist-era monument, snack bars, souvenir stalls and a small museum in Guardhouse Number 1 (closed October to April). There is also an outdoor exhibit entitled ‘Westerplatte: Spa-Bastion-Symbol.’

To get to Westerplatte in summer, you can take the Water Tram (p.36) from outside the Hilton Hotel at Targ Rybny (D-3, journey time 50mins). This water tram later stops at the Nowy Port Lighthouse just across the river, from where the first shots of WWII were actually fired. Alternatively, you can catch bus 106, 138 or 606 just outside of Gdańsk Główny train station (journey time 30mins).

ul. Majora Henryka Sucharskiego, Gdańsk.

Historical re-enactments at Westerplatte. Photo by Dariusz Kula.

Getting Around

One of the keys to the Tri-city being 'the Tri-city’ - and not just separate towns spread along the coast - is how well-connected they are. Even if you don’t have a car, you can quite easily get between Gdańsk, Sopot, Gdynia and also the airport thanks to the railway network, after which you can proceed locally via tram, bus, bike or scooter - all of which is explained here.

Gdańsk Główny train station.

By Train

Unless you have your own motor vehicle, or are a distance cyclist, train will be your main mode of travel around the Tri-city. The first, most important thing you need to know is where you’re trying to go.

• ‘Gdańsk Główny’ - the main station in Gdańsk

• ‘Sopot’ - the main station in Sopot

• ‘Gdynia Główna’ - the main station in Gdynia

• ‘Gdańsk Port Lotniczy’ - the airport station

Now that you know where you’re going, how will you get there?

SKM Trains

These yellow and blue commuter trains are the easiest, most common way to travel between Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia (and all stops in between); though there are other trains, stick to these - you’ll be better off. SKM trains depart as often as every 10-15mins, with long wait times only between 02:00-04:00. If you don’t have the Jakdojade app, tickets can be bought from machines on the platforms, from station ticket offices (not recommended), or - as a last resortfrom the conductor at the front of the train (not recommended). If you buy your SKM ticket from the station ticket office, you must stamp it in the bright yellow boxes on or close to the platform to validate them, before getting on the train. If you don’t, you risk being fined by ticket inspectors.

Tickets & Travel Times

Kids under 4 travel for free on SKM, but you must buy a 0zł ticket (we kid you not) and prove the child’s age. ISIC cards get you a discount only if you study in Poland; Euro 26 cards are not honoured. Bikes travel for free on trains, but you must enter the front carriage and place your bike on a rack. | skm.pkp.pl; rokladjazdy pkp.pl

• Gdańsk to Sopot: about 20mins, 5.50zł.

• Gdańsk to Gdynia: about 35mins, 8zł.

Transport Hacks

We’re not going to pretend like transport around the Tri-city isn’t confusing for visitors. Just trying to explain it here in a simple, understandable way is a real challenge. For those who don’t want to parse all this info, here are a couple simple shortcuts. Transport sorted!

Jakdojade mobile app

Make your life easier by getting Poland’s best transport app. Jakdojade (website and app) will tell you exactly how to get to your destination using live transit connections based on your location. It includes SKM trains and all local options, and will even guide you to the necessary station on foot. If you add your bank details to the app you can also buy the exact ticket you need and validate it through the app, which is truly handy. | gdansk.jakdojade.pl

Metropolitan tickets

Don’t want another app on your phone, and also don’t want to figure out all these different tickets for different transport in different cities? We don’t blame you. Fortunately, there’s one ticket that works for SKM trains, other trains, and all local transport (except water trams) in all of the Tri-city. Buy a Metropolitan ticket for 24hrs (30/15zł) or 72hrs (68/34zł) - then validate it in the yellow boxes on train platforms, and onboard trams and buses - and you can stop thinking about transport tickets. | mzkzg.org

Airport Trains

SKM trains do not go to the airport, though some connections from Gdańsk and Sopot may include SKM travel to Gdańsk Wrzeszcz before changing trains for the airport. There is a direct train connection from Gdynia to the airport (no changes). Use Jakdojade to find airport connections, or go to the nearest main station and get a ticket from the proper ticket office.

Tickets & Travel Times

For detailed info about Gdańsk Airport, visit our website.

ZKM Gdynia

Gdynia’s transport network consists of white and blue buses and trolleybuses, which cover all of Gdynia, plus Sopot. Single ride tickets cost 4.80/2.40zł and can be via transport app or at kiosks. Paper tickets must be validated upon boarding to avoid a fine. | zkmgdynia.pl

Water Trams

For those who prefer the scenic route, water trams also connect points along the coast during the summer season. A cruise on one of these large catamarans is more for pleasure than efficient transport, but they are a viable way to get to Hel Peninsula (p.93). In terms of service and amenities, don’t expect more than toilets.

• Gdańsk to Airport: about 45mins, 5.50zł.

• Sopot to Airport: 30-40mins, 5.50zł.

• Gdynia to Airport: 20-40mins, 8zł.

By

Bus & Tram

Gdańsk and Gdynia have independent local transport networks, which both cover Sopot; Sopot has no network of its own.

ZTM Gdańsk

Gdańsk’s public transport consists of trams and buses, both painted red and beige, and covers all regions of Gdańsk, as well as Sopot. Single ride tickets cost 4.80/2.40zł and can be purchased via app, or from ticket machines at major stops and kiosks before boarding. Paper tickets must be validated upon boarding to avoid a fine. | ztm.gda.pl

From Gdańsk you can take a water tram to Westerplatte (50mins), Sopot (1hr 15mins) or Hel (via Sopot, 2hrs 45mins); along the way you’ll see the Shipyards, Wisłoujście Fortress and other points of interest (including Westerplatte). All Gdańsk water trams stop at Targ Rybny (D-4/5), however tickets can only be bought from the ticket booth next to the Green Gate (D-6). In Sopot, water trams (to Hel or Gdańsk) leave from the end of the pier (O-6, p.78), and you must buy tickets for both the cruise and a pier entry fee from Kasy Molo; allow yourself time for queueing and walking to the end of the pier. In Gdynia, water trams bound for Hel moor next to the Dar Pomorza museum ship on the leisure pier (D-3); tickets are available from a small office nearby. Check online for times and prices.

Take a water tram to Westerplatte to see the Port of Gdańsk.

By Bike

With flat topography, dedicated red bike lanes on main roads and gorgeous coastal forest trails between each city, the Tri-city is incredibly bikefriendly. Remember, you can take a bike on water trams and SKM trains.

Bike Rental

• E-Bike 24 is located in Gdańsk Old Town (C-7, ul. Kotwiczników 20, Garage No. 1) and can also deliver bikes to your door (for an extra charge).

• Veloking has beachside points in Gdańsk Brzeźno (Aleja Hallera 273) and Jelitkowo (ul. Jelitkowska 10A; ul. Piastowska 209), as well as two in Sopot (O-7, Aleja Wojska Polskiego 1; O-5, Aleja Franciszka Mamuszki 2) which allow you to pick up and drop off at whichever point you please.

• Mevo, the Tri-city’s own scan-and-go bike share service, is set to make its return in 2023, but as of May no date had yet been announced.

Scenic Bike Rides

• Coastal Forest Trail from Brzeźno (p.14) to Sopot (p.74); 7.5km, 22mins.

• Coastal Forest Trail between Sopot and Gdynia Orłowo (p.89); 5.4km, 20mins.

• Along the Hel Peninsula (p.93) from Władysławowo to Hel; 36km, 1hr 45mins.

Electric Scooters

Although agitating to some, electric motorised scooters provide a cheap, easy, efficient and environmentally-friendly way to get around. To get started, you need an e-scooter app on your phone (create an account and add your personal data and payment details). The most commonly found scooters on the Tri-city streets at the moment are Tier, Dott and Bolt (Gdańsk & Sopot only); each charges a minimal amount per minute, making them ideal for short distances. Spare yourself the wrath of locals by using your scooter responsibly; don’t ride through congested areas and please park without blocking the sidewalk.

Traficar Car Share

Want your own car but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t pay for parking or gas! A 30min journey from Gdańsk to Sopot (about 15km) will cost you about 31zł. You can also rent via their day rate and even drop the vehicle off in another major city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips. Note that in order to use the app you need a valid driver’s licence recognised in PL. | traficar.pl

Well-behaved scooters parked neatly on Gdańsk's waterfront.

Gdańsk Old Town

A unique blend of Germanic and Central European medieval architecture, gilded by the wealth of maritime trade, Gdańsk's historical centre is one of the largest and most unique in all of Europe. Begin here.

The Main Town Hall and Artus Court. Photo by Dariusz Kula.

Walking Tour

This self-guided sightseeing route takes you past the most important sites and attractions in the very centre of Gdańsk. Roughly 4.7km in length, strolling its entirety could take you anywhere from 1-5hrs, depending how you use your time. To help you out, we’ve listed the approximate time it takes to visit the museums along the route, and you’ll find our recommendations for where to take a rest and refuel on p.52. If you’re in Gdańsk for just 1 day, this is how you should spend it.

Upland Gate

Welcome to the entry to ‘The Royal Way’ of Gdańsk! It was here that the Polish king was welcomed and given the keys to the city, before rolling down the main strip in glorious fashion. This 16-century gate was originally surrounded by a 50m moat and was named for its upland location above the water level. See if you can find the coats of arms of Poland, Prussia and Gdańsk on the front!

B-6, Wały Jagiellońskie 2A.

Golden Gate

Built between 1642-44, numerous allegorical statues adorn the balustrade overlooking ul. Długa, and an inscription on the gate reads, “Small states grow by concord, great ones fall by disagreement.” Proceeding through, you are now on ul. Długa (Long Street) - the heart of Gdańsk Old Town!

B-6, ul. Długa.

Main Town Hall

Soaring above Gdańsk’s high street, the city’s magnificent and iconic Town Hall was originally built in the 14th century and painstakingly repaired following World War II. Today the building is accessible as a branch of the Museum of Gdańsk and houses one of the most beautiful Renaissance halls in Northern Europe, plus several halls full of lavish paintings, furnishings and a huge collection of silver. On the top floor is an exhibit about what everyday life was like in Gdansk right before the war, from which - in the summer months, if the weather’s amenable - you can ascend to the top of the 80m tower for fantastic views. Visiting time: 75mins.

C‑6, ul. Długa 46/47. Open 10:00 18:00; Mon 12:00 18:00. Admission 23/16zł, Mon free; viewpoint 15/8zł. U

Prison Tower & Torture Chamber

Behind the Upland Gate is a 16th-century complex that functioned as a torture chamber and courthouse (the smaller building) and a prison (the tower). It’s alleged that flooding the underground cell (see the grate behind the door) was a common torture method used and prisoners had to bail themselves out to survive!

B-6, Targ Węglowy 26. Courtyard entrance is free.

Neptune Fountain & Artus Court

Here, in the very centre of The Royal Way, ul. Długa becomes Długi Targ (Long Market) - so named because its unique shape, which differs greatly from the ‘squares’ of most European cities. In the middle of this narrow, continuous strip is the famous Neptune Fountain, first erected in 1549. During WWII, the fountain was spared from destruction, as

Enter the Old Town via the Upland Gate. Unicorns!

it was taken apart and hidden away with other local treasures. Neptune finally returned to his post in 1954 and today is one of the city’s most iconic and photographed landmarks.

The colourful and ornate houses on either side of Długi Targ used to be home to Gdańsk’s richest, most elite residents. The most notable piece of real estate here is at number 44 - the white-arched Artus Court. Founded as a meeting place for merchants and dignitaries, it was named after the original ‘round table talks’ guy, Britain’s King Arthur, and remains a symbol of the city’s power in the 16th and 17th centuries. Following a fire in 1841, it was renovated into a more Gothic form, complete with ostentatious sculptures and paintings illustrating man’s merits and vices. Today a branch of the Museum of Gdańsk, its beautiful interior furnishings and art are worth a visit. Visiting time: 30mins.

C‑6, Długi Targ 43/44. Open 10:00 18:00; Mon 12:00 18:00.

Admission 23/16zł, Mon free. U­

Fahrenheit Monument

An important name and instrument in science! Daniel Fahrenheit (1686–1736), the physicist and inventor, was born just a block away from this recreation of his ‘Mercury in Glass’ thermometer and barometer. Though he was the first to invent the mercury thermometer in 1714, this particular example, as the plaque below notes, was modelled on his improved model from 1752.

C-6, ul. Mieszczańska.

Piw nica Rajców is a res taurant located in the heart of G dańs k, w ithin the cellars of the his toric Artus Court. Our beer, brew ed on-s ite, has been highly acclaimed by Poland's pres tigious Craft

Neptune Fountain & Artus Court.

Green Gate

Congratulations! You have just completed ‘The Royal Way’. If you were a Polish monarch, you would have taken up quarters in this fourarched not-particularly-green gatehouse on the waterfront. Lech Wałęsa (p.55), a much later Polish head-of-state, also had his office here before moving to the European Solidarity Centre (p.57). Following careful renovation, the gate now bears an uncanny resemblance to Amsterdam’s central train station, and you can enter for a visit to the Gdańsk Photography Gallery - a small branch of the National Museum. Visiting time: 1hr.

D‑6, ul. Długi Targ 24. Open 10:00 17:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł.

The Gdańsk Shakespeare Theatre

It is widely recognised that Gdańsk was visited by itinerant English acting troupes each summer from about 1600 onwards, performing at a theatre called The Fencing School that may have been modelled on the Fortune Playhouse in London. The Fencing School was demolished and replaced by the Komedienhaus in 1740 where performances were given until the start of the 19th century. The city has spent a lot of money and energy reviving this tradition in recent years, culminating in the 2014 opening of the remarkable Shakespearean Theatre on the site of the old Fencing School. This impressive construction can be adapted for different types of staging and even open its roof for daylight performances. The audience watches from seating in front of the stage or on cushioned benches around the sides designed like the viewing areas in an Elizabethan theatre. The theatre organises performances in many languages and plays host to festivals, exhibitions, film screenings, workshops and more. Even if there are no performances scheduled while you’re in town (check the website), you can take a 1hr tour of the impressive building and learn about its 17th-century origins.

B‑6, ul. W. Bogusławskiego 1. Box office open 14:00 19:00. Tour 25zł/20zł; performances 30 90zł. U

Ul. Mariacka

Arguably the most picturesque street in Gdańsk, Mariacka is particularly special because, unlike other streets in the Old Town that had to be reconstructed after the devastation of WWII, this street was pieced back together with salvaged-debris from elsewhere in the neighbourhood; in other words, no new materials were used! The most iconic relics on this strip are the ornate gargoyle rain gutters on the gabled terraced houses, known locally as Rzygacze (Spewers). Many consider Gdańsk to be ‘The Capital of Amber’, and Mariacka is the place to buy amber in Poland. Rather than a chintzy market or shopping mall, the street is subtly lined with the country’s most knowledgeable and respected amber dealers and craftsmen. The street also harbours some great cafes, and is a place locals like ourselves love to linger.

D‑6.

Mariacka Street.

St. Mary’s Basilica

The most visible landmark on the city’s skyline, St. Mary’s Basilica is believed to be the largest brick church in the world, with an estimated 1 million in its structure. This centrally-located point of worship can hold up to 25,000 people, which was useful during the period of martial law between 1981 and 1983 when members of the Solidarity movement (p.55) sought refuge here. After being damaged in WWII, the original frescoes have since been whitewashed, however, this helps bring out the wealth of treasures in its possession. The most notable of these is the astronomical clock dating from 1464, with a complex dial showing the time and date, phases of the moon, position of the moon and sun in relation to the zodiac signs, and featuring a procession of wooden figures of the apostles chased by Death as Adam and Eve ring the hoursee it in action every day at exactly 11:57! You can also climb the 405 steps of the 78-metre tower, which houses a viewing platform with cracking views of old Gdańsk (weather dependent).

C‑6, ul. Podkramarska 5. Open 08:30 17:30; Sun 11:00 12:00 and 13:00 17:30; in July & Aug open until 18:30. Viewing tower open 10:00 18:00; tickets 16/8zł.

OH, THAT ITSY-BITSY SPIDER...

MUSEUM OF GDAŃSK

MUSEUM OF AMBER

Crossroads!

Have a peek at one of Gdańsk’s most grandiose architectural monuments by carrying on to the Great Armoury at #10?

Hasten your pace to #15 (and perhaps onward to the Amber Museum (#12)) by taking one of the sidestreets between ul. Mariacka and ul. Św. Ducha?

The Great Armoury

Built from 1600-09 on the line of the former medieval city walls, this was a working arsenal until the 1800s, and remains the finest example of Renaissance architecture in the city. The welllike structure in front was used as an elevator to transport gunpowder and cannon balls from their storage place in the basement to ground level. The armoury was badly damaged in WWII and had to be completely rebuilt. It’s only in recent years that it has regained its former glory, following a spell during which it even played host to a supermarket. It’s now open as an art gallery, hosted by the Gdańsk Academy Of Fine Arts, with a classy wine bar on the

ground floor, which gives you a chance to take a look inside when there are no exhibitions. See if you can spot the randy lion on the facade.

B-5, Targ Węglowy 6.

Gdańsk Market Hall

One of the city’s more uniquelooking buildings, Gdańsk’s Hala Targowa (Market Hall) was built in 1896 in Neo-Gothic style. Inside and out you can find just about anything imaginable on sale, particularly cheap clothing, fresh flowers, produce, fruit, meat, dairy and more. During recent renovations, the foundations of one of the city’s oldest churches, the 12th century Church of St. Nicolas, were discovered underneath the main market building and today there is a small, living archaeology museum - known as the Romanesque Cellars - in the basement, along with a display of photographs, objects found during the excavations and drawings of how the church might have looked; you’ll find the entrance in the outdoor part of the market (open 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; admission 10/7zł, kids under 16 1zł, under 7 free, Sun free; visiting time 30mins).

C-5, Pl. Dominikański 1. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:0015:00; closed Sun.

The Great Armoury.

Amber Museum

Housed in Wielki Młyn (The Grand Mill), a building that once processed the grains that provided renaissance Gdańsk with its wealth, the Amber Museum is one of the city’s most modern cultural attractions. Within its ambient-lit interior, you are taken on a multimedia journey through the multi-million-year history of Baltic amber, followed by a multitude of exhibits, where you’re able to get up close and personal with amber from all over the world. The impressive collection of “inclusions” (when bugs or plants are caught inside the amber) is intriguing to look at, and the many amber creations, from inkwells to spoons to a stunning Fender Stratocaster guitar, shows the material’s diversity. There are also a number of masterpieces by the old masters of Gdańsk, plus a collection of modern artworks and jewellery.

Gradowa Hill Viewpoint & Centrum Hevelianum

Make sure you also check out the grounds around the Grand Mill, which includes the picturesque white Miller’s House, a padlock-lovers bridge with a killer view, and the statue of Jan Heweliusz (Johannes Hevelius), the astronomer and Gdańsk local who financed his scientific career through beer brewing! Visiting time: 2hrs.

C‑4, Wielkie Młyny 16. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. From July to Sept open 10:00 20:00; Mon 12:00 20:00. Admission 32/22zł, Mon free. U­

If you’re looking for something to do with the kids, or just want to get off the beaten path, climb ‘Góra Gradowa’ - a 46m hill directly behind the bus and train stations that is supplanted with a huge cross that can be seen from quite a distance, and offers several viewpoints with glorious views of the Old Town. The hill played an important role in the city’s defence in years past and was home to a 19th-century fort - the remains of which host the Hevelianum Centre, a unique science park/museum named in honour of famed astronomer Johannes Hevelius (Jan Heweliusz), who was born in Gdańsk in 1611. Split into two parts, half the exhibit tells the story of the fortress itself, while the other features interactive multimedia exhibits that introduce young visitors to physics and mathematical concepts in a fun way. A great place for urban explorers and families, below we list the museum details, which change often, so check online. Visiting time: 3hrs.

A‑3, ul. Gradowa 6. Open 08:00 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. July & Aug open 10:00 18:00. Admission 30/25zł, family ticket 75zł. Extra charge for some exhibits.

Using DNA preserved in these amber chesspieces, scientists are cloning a chesspiece army!

St. Catherine's Church & Gdańsk Science Museum

This 14th-century brick church is closely connected with famous astronomer and brewer Jan Hevelius (1611-87). Known as the 'Polish da Vinci’ and ‘founder of lunar topography,’ Hevelius also served as the city’s mayor, as well as the administrator of this church, which is his final resting place. You’ll find his tomb at the rear behind the altar. Rather spartan inside, the most interesting part of the church is its tower, which hosts a small museum dedicated to tower clock mechanisms (open May to Sept). The exhibit takes you all the way back to the 15th century, when time-keeping may not have been as efficient but it was certainly more beautiful to watch. St. Catherine’s 76m tower is also home to a 49-bell carillon - one of only 3 in Polandand in summer the views are worth climbing the 258 steps to the top (66 steps just to the ticket office). Visiting time: 30mins.

C‑4, Profesorska 3. May, June & Sept open Fri Sun 10:00 16:00; July & Aug 10:00 18:00, Mon 12:00 18:00. Admission 23/16zł.

St. Bridget’s Church

If you haven’t seen enough amber already, pop into St. Bridget’s to see its famous amber altar. Although still a work in progress, the altar apparently already contains more amber than St. Petersburg’s legendary Amber Room. If that’s true - and who can verify? - it kinda takes the shine off the legend in our opinion, but this is still an impressive project. Dating back to the late 14th century, St. Bridget’s was destroyed in WWII and rebuilt to its medieval design in 1973. It soon became the favoured church of the leaders of the Solidarity movement. In fact, St. Bridget’s controversial priest Father Henryk Jankowski held masses in the shipyards during the srikes of 1980, and was a vocal critic of the communist regime in his role as Solidarity’s chaplain. The church is also home to a number of historical shrines and a spooky crypt.

C-4, ul. Profesorska 17. Open 10:00-18:30; Sun 13:3018:30. Admission 5zł.

At the Royal Chapel, let sleeping lions lie (or you might get wet!).

Crossroads!

Follow the prescribed route south - back towards the centre of the Old Town?

Head east on ul. Zamkowa towards the infamous Polish Post Office (p.32) to learn its tragic history?

Royal Chapel

Often overlooked because of its gargantuan neighbour, this little baroque beauty was built in the late 17th century, at a time when the majority of Gdańsk and Northern Poland residents were Protestant (even the mighty St. Mary’s Basilica was a place of Protestant worship at the time!). Thus, the Royal Chapel, funded in part by King Jan III Sobieski, was built to serve the city’s Catholic minority. The most eye-catching building on ul. Swiętego Ducha is also perhaps overshadowed by the popular Four Quarters Fountain just across the road, which features four life-sized lions - the ancient symbol and protectors of Gdańsk - and 24 streaming jets of water (in summer). Although the Royal Chapel is officially closed to visitors, it is still open to those attending mass (please dry yourself off first).

C-5, ul. Św. Ducha 58.

Św. Ducha Footbridge

This marvellous modern bridge extending from ul. Św. Ducha to Granary Island opened as recently as August 2020. Quite a novelty, the bridge has a fixed base running parallel to the riverbank on which the bridge rests when closed for pedestrians so that boats may pass through; the bridge then pivots 90 degrees to allow pedestrians to cross. When the bridge is resting on its base it resembles a submarine cresting out of the water. From April-Oct the bridge rotates every 30mins between 9:00 and 20:00, staying open for pedestrians overnight. From Nov-March it is open for pedestrians 24hrs/day, except when vessels request to get through. If your timing’s good you can take this shortcut over to Granary Island and refuel in one of the many gastro spots on the opposite side; otherwise, you’ll have to wait, or carry on along the west bank.

D-6, Długie Pobrzeże 23.

The Crane

One of the defining symbols of Gdańsk, the iconic Żuraw (Crane) represents what little is left of the city’s great trading age. First mentioned in 1367 and most likely constructed from wood in its first iteration, the current structure dates from around 1444. As a working crane, it was used to transfer cargoes and to put up masts on ships. At one time this was the biggest working crane in the world but it also served a defence function and as one of the gates to the city. The crane’s lifting mechanism was powered by men walking inside of the large hamster-wheels at its base. 80% destroyed at the close of WWII, it has since been reconstructed and is now part of the Maritime Museum. In popular culture, a similar building to the crane appears in the video game ‘The Witcher III: The Wild Hunt’ on the waterfront of Novigrad. Due to rennovations, the interior exhibition is currently closed.

D‑5, ul. Szeroka 67/68.

Trader’s Gate

Built between 1481 and 1492, this brick beauty comes crowned with two turrets and was obviously inspired by the gates to Mariacka and

Chlebnicka streets. The unique feature here is a heraldic coat of arms seated over the entrance, bearing the emblems of Gdańsk, Prussia and Poland taking centre bow. Almost completely destroyed at the tail end of WWII, this Gothic-style gate was reconstructed from close to nothing. It is interesting to note that, in keeping with the reconstruction policy of post-war Gdańsk, the gate was not rebuilt to look like it did in 1939 Danzig, but instead using an 18th-century painting as a basis. In this way, the gatehouse would resemble the way it had looked the last time the city had been known as ‘Gdańsk!’

D-5, ul. Straganiarska 37.

Targ Rybny

This historical landmark and public space was the site of Gdańsk’s fish market from 1343 until World War II. It was established by the Teutonic knights, whose castle stood nearby from 1308 to 1454 when it was dismantled by the residents of Gdańsk immediately after being abandoned. The fish market continued, however, and was separated from the river by and wall and two city gates from the 15th century onwards. Damaged beyond salvation during

Targ Rybny and Swan Tower.

the war, along with the adjacent waterfront houses, the only remnants of these defensive walls today is the Swan Tower (Baszta Łabędź), which currently houses the Polish Maritime Club. The fish market’s pre-war function never returned and today it is the most open space on this side of the river, hosting occasional fairs and events. It also features the colourful Gdańsk Carousel, which offers expensive rides from wellbehaved horses. You can also take the water ferry from Targ Rybny to Sopot, Westerplatte or Hel.

D-4/5, Targ Rybny.

Choose Your Adventure!

Continue over the drawbridge (#20) and along the prescribed route?

Catch the F-5 Water Tram to Westerplatte (p.33)?

Keep following this side of the river to reach the WWII Museum (p.32)?

Ołowianka Drawbridge

Another modern engineering marvel over the Motława, this much-needed footbridge connecting the Old Town near Targ Rybny to Ołowianka Island opened in 2017. Prior to that it was a real pain to get across the river during the roughly 10 months of the year when it wasn’t frozen solid. Similar to the Św. Ducha bridge, this pedestrian bridge is actually a drawbridge that raises straight up in the air from the Ołowianka side to let boats through roughly every 30mins, for 30mins, so you may have to wait to cross. On the other side you’ll find the ‘Gdańsk’ marque sign that serves as social media bait, and the huge ‘Amber Eye’ Ferris wheel.

D-4, ul. Wartka.

Polish Baltic Philharmonic

You’re now on Ołowianka Island, which gets its name from the Polish word ‘ołów’ (lead) due to the fact that lead metals, sailed upriver from Olkusz in Silesia, were stored on the island in the Teutonic era (1343-1454). Centuries later, these warehouses were used as granaries, examples of which you will see later. The massive neo-gothic red-brick building of the Philharmonic was built at the end of the 19th century and housed the city’s hydroelectric power plant until its closure in 1996. Converted into an acoustic powerhouse, the space reopened as the home of the Baltic Philharmonic in 2005.

D‑5, ul. Ołowianka 1.

Maritime Museum & ‘Sołdek’ Steamship

The National Maritime Museum is one of Gdańsk’s biggest cultural institutions, with four branches all concentrated between The Crane (currently closed for renovations) and Ołowianka Island; there’s even a special museum ferry to shuttle back and forth between them. The largest and most comprehensive of the lot is the main branch located here inside three Renaissance granaries. A complete history of Poland’s nautical history is represented via old cannons, huge oil paintings, harpoon guns, a hall

dedicated to underwater archaeology, hard hats from the Lenin Shipyard, an extensive collection of model ships and more. Moored outside you’ll find ‘Sołdek’the first steamship built in Gdańsk after 1945. An ore collier before retiring to become a museum ship, just about every inch can be accessed from the cramped engine room to the bridge to the pokey little cabins the crews lived in (note that ship may be closed due to weather). Visiting time: 1hr each.

D-5, ul. Ołowianka 9-13. Open 10:00-16:00; Wed 13:0016:00; closed Mon. Joint tickets from 20/15zł to 47/35zł depending on how many branches.

Stągiewna Gate

Stągiew is Polish for ‘Milk Can’ and the gate is shaped like that, hence the name ‘Stągiewna Gate.’ This 16th-century fortification once guarded the entry to ‘Granary Island’, where the city’s renaissance grain industry was most prevalent. By 1643, there were 315 granaries on the island capable of storing up to 250,000 tons of grain and servicing over 200 ships. After being completely levelled at the end of WWII, the island remained untouched for 60 years. In the last decade, however, Granary Island has been revitalised into a thriving gastro district.

D-6, ul. Stągiewna.

View of the Philharmonic (left) and waterfront Ołowianka Drawbridge.

Green Bridge

We finish our adventure around Gdańsk at the Green Bridge, which connects Granary Island to the centre of the Old Town. What used to be a drawbridge that would be raised to keep the riff raff out of the prestigious centre is now open to you and the public to travel through as you please. Enjoy the picture-perfect view of the Motława, grab a bite to eat on either side of the river, or continue exploring!

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OLD TOWN

Eat & Drink

When it comes to travel these days, gastronomy is almost as important as sightseeing and culture. Below we list some of our favourite venues near the Walking Tour route. For full details, directions and additional recommendations, visit our website.

COFFEE & BREAKFAST

A La Française

D-6, ul. Spichrzowa 24/1

Run by a couple from Brittany in France, this bistro/cafe on Granary Island does phenomenal crepes, loaded baguettes, and plenty more.

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Ostoja

B-6, ul. Ogarna 124

A block away from the main drag, this conveniently overlooked coffee spot is youthful, down-toearth, and has a nice variety of roasts on offer!

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Tekstylia

C-5, ul. Szeroka 11/13

Formerly a Danzig-era textile store, we love starting our day with Tekstylia’s omelettes, pancakes, granola, and wholesome breakfast burgers!

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CASUAL DINING

Piwnica Rajcow

C-6, ul. Długi Targ 44

Gdańsk historic councillors’ cellar is now a quality restaurant with a comprehensive menu and brews their own beer on-site!

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Brovarnia

D-6, ul. Szafarnia 9

Delicious Polish cuisine and the best beer that can be found in Poland is right here within the oldest-operating brewery in Gdańsk.

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Słony Spichlerz

D-5, ul. Chmielna 10-11

This social hub and indoor food hall features a diverse range of dining options, weekend brunch, a riverside patio and stays open late.

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Woosabi

D-6, ul. Chmielna 10

A wonderfully-diverse menu of Asian-fusion cuisine - rice bowls, noodles, bao buns and the likeserved up in a lush tropical interior!

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FINE DINING

Mercato

D-3, ul. Targ Rybny 1

Gdańsk Hilton’s exceptional restaurant with great waterside views, serving modern and original interpretations of Northern Polish cuisine.

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Thai Thai

B-4, ul. Podgarbary 10

Located in the historic Royal Stables building, our long-time favourite Thai restaurant is a rather classy affair with even classier food.

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True Restaurant

D-5, ul. Chmielna 10

Enjoy the flavour fusions and riverside views from the sunlit terrace of this upscale and exotic surf & turf restaurant on Granary Island.

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Bar Leon

D-6, ul. Stągiewna 5/1

Serving craft cocktails, exquisite organic wines and colourful middle-eastern platters, this is a perfect spot for evening outings with your entourage.

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Browar PG4

A-3, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 4, Gdańsk

A microbrewery/restaurant in a historic red brick building offering 6 house beers, cocktails, a tasty food menu and a terrace with stunning views.

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Flisak ‘76

C-6, ul. Chlebnicka 9/10

Fancy a cocktail? Descend the stairs into Flisak’s schmick subterranean pad, with a phenomenal drinks menu skillfully concocted by award-winning mixologists!

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Józef K.

B-4, ul. Piwna 1/2

A cult café/bar riddled with random art, retro furnishings and open double-level architecture. A creative atmosphere to enjoy a few drinks!

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LATE NIGHT

Jungla Cocktails & Food

B-6, ul. Targ Sienny 7

Welcome to the Jungla! A wild venture with a great view of thebOld Town, dealing in fiery cocktails and an exotic menu from far-away lands!

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Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa

C-6, ul. Długi Targ 35/38 Gdańsk’s ‘snacks & shots’ bar, furnished and stocked to create the look and feel of a typical communist-era drinking establishment. Open late!

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Symbol Key

Cafe Breakfast menu Restaurant

Fine dining

Pub/Dive bar/ Craft beer

Wine bar/ Sommelier Cocktail bar

Club/DJ parties

Live music/ Concerts

Outside seating

Gdańsk Stocznia

Although Gdańsk’s Stocznia (Shipyard) district flourished  during the late 19th-century, today the area is best known as the birthplace of Solidarity - the social and political movement that exploded across PL out of the Shipyard strikes of 1980. Largely abandoned amidst declining industry, the shipyards are slowly being revitalised and today provide an alternative centre of culture, gastronomy and nightlife to explore.

Photo by @alexsnapscolours.

The Story of Solidarity

NSZZ Solidarność, known in English as ‘Solidarity,’ is a still-functioning Polish trade union. It was founded in August 1980 at the Lenin Shipyard in Gdańsk Stocznia. At the time, Poland had been under communist rule since the end of WWII, and living conditions were unbearable. While there had been civilian unrest in the 1950s and ‘70s, all of it brutally crushed, it was the firing of Anna Walentynowicz in August 1980, that motivated shipyard workers to go on strike yet again. Lech Wałęsa, an electrician who had been fired in 1976, was one of the strike’s instigators, and, after famously scaling the shipyard wall, he became a key leader. As strikes gained momentum across the country, Wałęsa and other labour leaders saw the opportunity to create a trade union movement to represent Polish workers and fight injustice. Instead of confronting the communist authorities, the strikers locked themselves inside the shipyards and, after 3 days, presented 21 demands on placards that hung on Gate No. 2. On

August 31, the government backed down and agreed to meet their demands, thereby marking the first-ever peaceful victory over communism

In the months following, some 10 million people joined the Solidarity movement, and Poles enjoyed a freedom unknown for decades, until the government declared martial law on December 13, 1981 in an attempt to reassert authority. Solidarity was officially dissolved, and Wałęsa and other leaders were imprisoned. The trade union continued to operate underground, however, and a renewed bout of labour strikes forced communist leader Wojciech Jaruzelski into talks with opposition figures in 1988. The following year Solidarity was once again granted legal status. Participating in Poland’s first post-communist election, Solidarity swept to victory, and Wałęsa became the first freely-elected president of Poland in 1990. Today, Solidarity is internationally recognised as the catalyst for the chain of events that ultimately led to the dissolution of the Soviet Union in late 1991.

Walking Tour

Featuring some excellent museums related to the labour movement, and plenty of fascinating industrial heritage sites, Stocznia’s compact space makes it easy to explore before becoming a great alternative hangout area come evening. Our walking route only covers 2km, but you can easily spend a day here if you’re committed to visiting ECS (#3) and learning the history. Begin by catching tram 7, 8 or 10 to Plac Solidarnośći, or do the tour in reverse by starting at ‘Gdańsk Stocznia’ train station.

Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970

In December 1970, riots erupted in the streets of Gdańsk and Gdynia in response to a sudden increase in prices for food and everyday items. Stemming from a general strike in the shipyards, the communist regime responded to the protests with brute force and 45 people were killed. Later, in 1980, one of the Solidarity trade union’s 21 demands was for this memorial to be erected in their honour. Standing 42 metres high, the 139-tonne steel sculpture was erected on the spot where the first three victims of the 1970 riots were killed, and includes a soaring

cross for each victim - each with an anchor on itwhile at the bottom their struggling comrades are depicted. A poignant inscription by Czesław Miłosz reads, ‘You who have harmed simple man, mocking him with your laughter, you kill him, someone else will be born, and your deeds and words will be written down.’ Solidarity leader Lech Wałęsa had his own poetic moment with the monument, referring to it as ‘a harpoon driven through the body of a whale. No matter how hard the whale struggles, it can never get rid of it B-2, Pl. Solidarności, Gdańsk.

Aerial view of Solidarity Square.

Gate #2 of the Gdańsk Shipyard

On August 31, 1980, when a deal had been struck with the Polish communist government, Lech Wałęsa stood upon this gate to announce the news to the crowds waiting outside the shipyard. Listed as a historical monument, the gate remains decked in flowers and photos of the Polish-born Pope John Paul II, who visited his homeland in 1979 and openly encouraged his compatriots to demand political change. This is also where the original 21 demands hung for public view, and you can see a faded copy hanging in its place.

C-2, ul. Doki 1, Gdańsk.

European Solidarity Centre (ECS)

This award-winning 5-storey facility was designed to resemble a rusty ship hull - a nod to local industry, and a clever metaphor for the communist system. Awarded the European Heritage Label along with its surrounding sights, ECS is free to enter and includes a museum (not free), several conference halls, library archives, a roof-top terrace with great views of the surrounding shipyards (free), and a supervised play area for kids (not free). The huge permanent exhibition of the ECS combines traditional display methods with some truly impressive state-of-the-art technology, presenting the story of Solidarity along with the social/cultural context of Poland at the time; grab an audioguide to get the most out it. As one of the Tri-city’s most important cultural centres, make sure you don’t skip this one! Visiting time: 2-3 hours.

C‑2, Plac Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 12, www.ecs.gda.pl. Open 10:00 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00; closed Tue. Permanent exhibit 30/25zł (includes audioguide); temporary exhibits 15/10zł; play department 9/5zl, kids under 2 free.

BHP Building

Just metres from the ECS, the shipyard’s Occupational Health & Safety Hall, abbreviated in Polish as Sala BHP, is where the meetings during the August 1980 strikes took place, and where the landmark August Accords (agreeing to meet the 21 demands of the workers) were actually signed. The hall houses a small free exhibition of images and memorabilia from the period when the movement was at the height of its power. There is also a

NOMUS - New Art Museum

This renovated red-brick former school building in the Shipyard is the setting for Poland’s youngest museum, both in terms of the institution itself and the works on display. A stark white minimal interior exhibition space for modern and contemporary art, most of the work in NOMUS’ changing temporary exhibits was created in the past twenty years. The museum also includes a cafe, play area for kids and bookshop, as well as community space that hosts frequent film screenings, concerts, workshops, lectures and other events.

While you’re there, take note of the unique working-class townhouses next door and all along ul. Robotnicza (Workers Street). Located within sight of the iconic shipyard cranes, these townhouses were built for shipyard workers and their families, providing an easy commute to work and some degree of control for the state authorities. Very neglected today, some workingclass families still live here and a walk around provides a grim portal back in time to the 1980s. Visiting time: 1hr.

B‑1, ul. Stefana Jaracza 14, tel. (+48) 517 612 148, www.nomus.gda.pl. Open 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/8zł, students 1zł, kids under 7 free, Fri free. T­U

recreation of the long table where government representatives and Solidarity leaders signed the historic agreement. Lech Wałęsa famously used a large souvenir pen from the Vatican, thus signing with “the Holy Father’s authority!”

C‑2, ul. ks. Jerzego Popiełuszki 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 308 42 10, www.salabhp.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission free.

5 Shipyard Directorate

Just before you turn onto ul. Popiełuszki, you can see a large red-brick building across to your right. This building housed the offices of the shipyard director in both the pre- and post-war periods, and the space in front of it was the shipyard parade ground. The building was famously captured in the background of Stanisław Składanowski’s iconic photograph of Lech Wałęsa being carried shoulder-high by burly colleagues after successfully negotiating the August Accords. Today it’s been renovated into modern office space with co-working space on the top two levels. C-2, ul. Doki 1, Gdańsk.

Choose Your Adventure!

Head east down ul. Narzędziowców to wander the largely abandoned 19th-century spaces of the Imperial Shipyard, including the former firehouse (now a restaurant), historic forge and some cool industrial sculpture art (if you go all the way to the river)?

Head 200m north down ul. Główna to see if Crane M3 is open for panoramic views (spring & summer only)?

Head west to explore Stocznia's trendy gastronomy and edgy nightlife options inside former warehouses and shipping containers?

Ul. Elektryków

Ulica Elektryków (Electricians’ Street) references one of the many professions held in the glory years of the Gdańsk Shipyards, not to mention the original trade of the man himself, Lech Wałęsa. Although the democratic change Wałęsa fought for was undoubtedly a good thing for Poland, capitalism and the free market proved to be a doubleedged sword for the shipyard industry, and its privatisation saw the work shift elsewhere in Europe. For many years this shipyard block was practically a ghost town, but recently a younger generation has begun to adapt these old industrial spaces into a fantastic alternative nightlife area. Today the old buildings of this street are full of art galleries and studios, hip shops and secondhand stores, restaurants, bars and clubs, with food, drink and live music spilling outdoors onto makeshift furniture during the warmer months. Worth exploring from late afternoon, on weekend nights it’s a proper party zone.

B-1, ul. Elektryków 80, Gdańsk.

A new generation of electricians getting charged up in the Shipyards.

Moustaches unite! Wałęsa in 1980. Photo by S. Składanowski.

Ul. Stolarzy

Along with ul. Elektryków, this is the contemporary heart of Stocznia, in its current incarnation as a headquarters for street art, street food, urban sounds and DIY culture. In the warmer months, the outdoor area around Stolarzy is an absolute hipster playground - most of it made out of shipping containers, and filled with food trucks, bars, deckchairs and sun terraces; there’s also an artificial beach, outdoor performance space. Inside the old warehouses nearby you’ll find multiple clubs and the Layup urban art gallery (open May-Oct). Events ranging from fairs, concerts, film screenings and DJ parties are frequent; things get started after lunch around here and generally don’t get out of bed at all on Mondays.

B-1, ul. Stolarzy, Gdańsk.

Eat & Drink

Repurposed after its mid-90s decline, Stocznia is now a thriving hangout spot with food, drink, live music and a unique atmosphere amongst the district’s old warehouses and shipping containers. If you’re looking for the city’s young alternatives, you’ll find them here. Note that most venues open late.

100cznia

B-1, ul. Ks. Popiełuszki 5 (entrance from ul. Malarzy)

This popular party/chillout zone constructed from shipping containers is the contemporary heart of Stocznia. Order from a range of bars and street food stalls and kick back with friends or friendly strangers. Open from 13:00, closed Mon.

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Montownia Food Hall

C-2, ul. Lisia Grobla 7

Gdańsk Shipyard Cranes

Ascending the footbridge that leads over to the ‘Gdańsk Stocznia’ SKM station, here you have the perfect vantage point of the iconic cranes of the Gdańsk Shipyards. Imported from Finland in the 1970s, each of these mighty green structures was capable of lifting 150 tonnes, and were, of course, used in the construction of ships. Today, these cranes are no longer in operation and are mere relics of the bygone age of shipbuilding in Gdańsk, as well as the glory days of the Solidarity movement. Once you’ve taken an insta snap of the view, you can hop on the SKM and head back to Gdańsk Główny or north to Sopot and/or Gdynia!

A-1, Gdańsk Stocznia SKM.

Gdańsk’s historic WWII-era U-boat hall has been adapted into loft apartments with this lively indoor restaurant market on the ground floor, including bars, a performance space, and regular events (check online). Open from June 2023.

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Mielżyński

Wines Spirits Specialities

C-1, ul. Narzędziowców 31

Poland’s celebrity wine importer has set up shop in the former shipyard fire station, with an ambient wine bar on the ground floor, and a fabulous restaurant and open terrace on the upper! A bit of distinction in the midst of dereliction.

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100cznia - a food market made of shipping containers.

Gdańsk Wrzeszcz

Two SKM stops/4km north of the Old Town, Wrzeszcz began as an 18th-century housing estate and was famously featured in the writings of German novelist Günter Grass, who lived here in the 1920s and '30s. After many decades of neglect, Wrzeszcz has been the site of much recent investment and is today one of Gdańsk’s buzziest districts. Home to Gdańsk University, several shopping malls and many trendy bars and restaurants, if you want to get away from the tourists and connect with local young people, this is the place.

Günter Grass Roundabout; photo courtesy of pomorskie.travel/Mateusz Ochocki.

Walking Tour

Beginning at Gdańsk Wrzeszcz train station, our walking tour leads you in a loop around Wrzeszcz’s most historic neighbourhood, before taking you east to Garnizon - a former military zone turned trendy gastronomy area. The tour covers 2.8km and takes about 35mins to complete.

1 Browar Gdański Mural

Representing a long-gone piece of local history, Browar Gdański (The Gdańsk Brewery) began in the 18th century as a small wooden brewery that once stood in nearby Park Kuźnicki. By the mid-19th century it had grown considerably, and was eventually acquired by the Danziger Aktien-Bierbrauerei in 1871. The modern complex which is depicted in this mural was built in the land just north of the

park in 1873. Dominating both the landscape and Prussian beer market, producing 6 million litres of beer a year, Günter Grass spoke of the site in great detail in his third book of the Danzig Trilogy,  Dog Years . In 2006, after a gradual decline in post-communist Poland, the complex was sold to property developers and converted into apartment buildings.

G-4, Biała 14.

Gdansk Wrzeszcz

Dwór Kuźniczki

The oldest standing building in Wrzeszcz, Kuźniczki Manor (known in German as ‘Kleinhammer’) was built between 1761 and 1763, with the nearby park as part of the estate grounds. After a stint as an inn and an iron forge, it was an interwar theatre venue for the Polish community in what was at that time a German-majority city. Today, its half restaurant, half cosmetology clinic! G-4, Wajdeloty 13.

Ul. Wajdeloty

The oldest remaining street in the district, Ulica Wajdeloty is synonymous with Wrzeszcz in name and character. The charming tenement houses that line it date from the late 19th century, when it was known as Marienstrasse. While everything may look in good shape now, this was certainly not the case for a good 50 years following WWII, when this rundown neighbourhood was known for its decrepit living conditions with shared toilet

facilities. Even famed novelist and former Wrzeszcz resident Günter Grass objected to a statue of himself being erected in the area. Revitalisation began in earnest in 2013, with most buildings renovated and the street returned to cobblestone. Keep an eye out for food and drink options around here, especially coffee and vegan options! I G‑4/5.

Grass Grocery

Günter Grass was a half German, half Kashubian-Polish Nobel prize-winning author, best known for his literary masterpiece The Tin Drum (originally Die Blechtrommel in German). Born in 1924, he was raised in Wrzeszcz (then Langfuhr), when it was part of the German-majority Free City of Danzig. His family owned a grocery shop at this address. Having served in the German military during WWII, a point which would prove controversial in later years, Grass would end up in West Germany, where he studied sculpture and eventually began writing about his childhood home.

Wajdeloty - the main pedestrian high street in Wrzeszcz. Photo (c) pomorskie.travel/Mateusz Ochocki

Upon his death in 2015, Günter Grass, who identified as being Kashubian, was described by Gdańsk Mayor Paweł Adamowicz as someone who ‘bridged the chasm between Germany and Poland.’

F-5, Lelewela 13.

Oskar’s Bench

The Tin Drum tells the story of Oskar, born in 1920s Langfuhr (Wrzeszcz) and mature well beyond his years. He decides to stop growing and uses a small tin drum and a glass-breaking scream to vent his frustrations about lower-middle-class Danzig. Oskar’s character greatly parallels the life of his creator, Günter Grass, and the novel’s mix of cynicism and dark humour is a confronting look at German-Polish relations before, during and after WWII. This Oskar statue was unveiled in 2002, while the statue of Grass joined him in 2015.

Park Kuźniczki

Formerly part of the Kuźnicki Manor Estate, this park was considerably bigger until the railway line was put through in the 19th century. It then became property of Danziger AktienBierbrauerei (The Gdańsk Brewery), the remnants of which have been incorporated into the nearby modern apartment blocks to the north. As it was with ul. Wajdeloty, the park has undergone a make over as part of the neighbourhood’s restoration.

F-4, Pl. Wybickiego.

G‑4, ul. Kilińskiego, Gdańsk.

Günter Grass and his precocious creation.

Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

Built following a petition raised by the residents of Langfuhr (Wrzeszcz) requesting a Catholic place of worship in the area, this church was consecrated in April 1911. Shortly after his birth in 1924, Günter Grass was christened here by Father Walter Wienke. Two other parish priests from the 1920’s (Franciszek Rogaczewski and Bronisław Komorowski) tragically perished in the death camp at Stutthof (p.93) and were later beatified. The church also had the honour of being visited by Cardinal Wojtyła, the future Pope John Paul II.

Grass Family House

The building where the Grass family lived at the time of Günter’s birth still stands here, though now finds itself isolated somewhat between a bus terminal, a busy road and the Galeria Bałtycka shopping mall.

Garnizon

Worth the walk, especially if you're interested in the latest urban design and gastronomy trends, Garnizon (The Garisson) balances out the Wajdeloty café scene with a number of chic post-industrial food and drink options boasting summer gardens full of deckchairs. As the name suggests, this was a closed military zone in the early 20th century, comprised of 10 brick buildings manned by the 2nd Leib-Hussar Regiment. Falling into decline after WWII, a recent rash of investment has filled with cafes, bars, restaurants, breweries and a stellar concert venue (Stary Maneż). Check out the farmers markets at Gdański Bazar Natury on Thu (14:00-18:00) and Sat (12:00-15:00).

G-4, ul. ks. Józefa Zator Przytockiego 3.

G-3, ul. Lendziona 5A.

G-1, ul. Juliusza Słowackiego.

Hang with the gang in Garnizon.

WRZESZCZ

Eat & Drink

As in most major cities, different districts of Gdańsk have their own unique gastronomy profiles. In Wrzeszcz, which very much caters to students and the younger demographics that live in the area, you’ll find a tonne of cafés, casual dining options and bars, whilst clubs and fine dining restaurants are still in short supply. For more recommendations, visit our website.

COFFEE & BREAKFAST

Avocado SPOT

F-4, ul. Wajdeloty 25

The Nirvana of vegan restaurants in Tri-city, serving a wondrous encyclopedia-worth of plant-based cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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Kawana

F-3, ul. Konrada Wallenroda 7

Duck down this side street to discover this creative coffeeroaster, who combines their own stunning graphics with a wide range of imported beans.

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Marmolada, Chleb i Kawa

F-1, ul. Antoniego Słonimskiego 5

Found in Wrzeszcz’s Garnizon, MCK is synonymous with all day breakfasts! Many of their tasty ingredients, including daily fresh bread and marmalade, are made on-site.

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CASUAL DINING

Hewelke

G-4, ul. Jana Kilińskiego 7 Drawing inspiration from all corners of the culinary atlas, this imaginative restaurant and bakery aims for the stars with every dish on its sumptuous menu!

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Limoncello di Mielnik

G-1, ul. Mariana Hemara 15

An exquisite proponent of Italian cuisine, this Garnizon operation serves excellent main courses of meat, fish and seafood, plus original desserts, and cocktails.

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Stacja Food Hall

G-4, ul. Jana Kilińskiego 4 (Galeria Metropolia)

More than just a food court. This is a young and happening community of eateries and bars, complemented by live music and DJs. Perfect for groups!

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NIGHTLIFE

Stary Maneż Browar Vrest

F-1, ul. Słowackiego 23

One of Gdańsk’s premier live music venues (Stary Maneż) combined with a fantastic tapas bar and brewery (Browar Vrest).

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Graciarnia

G-4, ul. Dmowskiego 15

A brickwork basement hangout, created for lovers of boardgames and pub quizzes. Snacks and live music are also a part of the program!

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Nowy Browar Gdański

F-4, ul. Jana Kilińskiego 7E

A revitalised part of Wrzeszcz’s historic brewery complex, producing its own beer to complement a fantastic restaurant menu.

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Gdańsk Oliwa

Only 3 SKM train stops and 8km north of Gdańsk’s Old Town is the lovely, leafy suburb of Oliwa. Full of forested hills above the grounds of a 12th century monastery-turned-park, Oliwa is the perfect afternoon outing for couples, families, fans of landscape architecture, or anyone eager to escape into nature without getting their shoes full of sand.

Oliwa Park and the Abbot's Palace.

Walking Tour

Aside from the Zoo, Oliwa’s main sights are all within the picturesque Oliwa Park, and the main aim of our short and somewhat arbitrary walking route is simply to make sure you don’t miss any of its highlights. Easily accessible from the train station, you’ll also find cafes and restaurants lining the park’s perimeter (p.73).

Linden Avenue

Passing through the main gates of Oliwa Park from ul. Rybińskiego, visitors are greeted by the mighty hedge-row pathway known as Aleja Lipowa (Linden Avenue) and a large ornamental pond. In winter these massive densely grown trees are strung with thousands of lights to create an illuminated tunnel, and the picturesque surroundings are popular with locals, particularly young couples, social media influencers and wedding photographers.

J 3. Park open 05:00 23:00.

The Abbot’s Palace & Museum of Modern Art

Although the exact historical origins of Oliwa’s delightful 10-hectare park are lost to time, it is known that the Cistercian Order cultivated these grounds from the 12th century to 1831, when the abbey was closed and its goods divvied up between the Free City of Gdańsk and the Prussian Empire. The park owes its current appearance to Oliwa’s last Cistercian Abbot, Jacek Rybiński, who contracted landscaper Kazimierz Dębiński in the late 18th century to design the

park as we know it today, particularly the French Rococo-style garden in front of the Pałac Opatów (Abbot’s Palace).

The Palace itself consists of two parts - The Old Palace, in Gothic style, dating back to the 15th century, and the New Palace, in Rococo style, dating from the early 17th century. Destroyed during WWII, but rebuilt in the 1960s, today the palace houses the Gdańsk National Museum’s Modern Art collection, consisting of works by Polish artists from the 19th and 20th centuries

The Whispering Grotto

Following the shady pathways back into the park, you’ll eventually come across Groty Szeptów (The Whispering Grotto) - two bowl-shaped alcoves that, as a result of their location and construction, allow sound to be amplified and reflected across to its counterpart. For this reason, two people can communicate through whispers while their backs are turned to each other! This brilliant piece of engineering was part of the 18th-century park design that both Rybiński and his successor Karol Hohenzollern-Hechingen championed. | J‑3.

(Matejko, Boznańska, Gierymski, Podkowiński, Malczewski), plus French artists (Georges Braque, Wassily Kandinsky, Marc Chagall), and over 65 works by Günter Grass. The palace also hosts temporary exhibitions, as well as concerts, readings, symposia and meetings with artists. Closed when we went to press, the museum should reopen at some point over the summer. Visiting time: 2hrs.

J‑3, ul. Cystersów 18.

Oliwa Park Palm House

Oliwa Park’s historic Palm House dates back to the 18th century and has always been a key component of the abbey complex and park. Consisting of a unique 24-meter-high glass rotunda and separate orangery, the entire complex was renovated and only reopened as recently as spring of 2022. In fact, the structures had previously been remodelled in the 1950s

A lovely man-made waterfall in Oliwa Park.

and the date palm tree inside had grown so much since that it had damaged the roof of the 15m-tall glass enclosure. In 2017, the old building was dismantled, but the new construction soon became so expensive and problematic that it dragged on for five years, during which time Oliwa’s 180-year-old, 17-meter-tall prize palm tree tragically died and had to be removed. Although the new rotunda is quite spectacular and the historic palm has been replaced by three new ones, a void remains.

J‑3, ul. Opata Jacka Rybińskieg. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission free.

Beech Avenue & The Prince’s View

Charming 'Aleja Bukowa' (Beech Avenue) is the result of beech trees that were bound in curved frames. Remarkably, the trees have remained in this shape since the frames were removed centuries ago, creating a tunnel effect. Running parallel to the pathway is another ornamental water canal. In the past, it was possible to see the Bay of Gdańsk from this vantage point, and both bodies of water actually connected in an optical illusion known as 'Książęcy Widok' (The Prince's View). Sadly the once-famous view is obstructed today. | J‑3.

Gdańsk Zoo

Scenically set in the forests of Oliwa, 2km from Park Oliwski, this is one of Poland’s best zoos. It is quite possible to spend most of the day here as the park makes for a pleasant and quite exhausting walk, and in the warm months there are additional attractions such as a train tour of the whole park, a ropes park and a central food area with some small rides for the kids. Bus 622 runs from the west side of Oliwa Park (‘Cystersów’ stop) straight to the front gates.

ul. Karwieńska 3. Open 09:00 18:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission 30/25zł (40/35zł in July & Aug); family ticket (2+2) 90zł; kids under 3 free. U­L­

Japanese Garden

After passing through a section of Oliwa’s botanic gardens, the pathway reveals one of the newer parts of the park groundsa Japanese-style garden that welcomes you with a torii archway, several other oriental structures and plants, and a gorgeous pond, all of which create the peaceful atmosphere that the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ is known for. | J‑4.

Lions are a symbol of Gdańsk and you can see them at the zoo.

Aerial view of Oliwa Cathedral and the Abbot's Palace.

Oliwa Park Waterfall

Designed to resemble an open sluice, the wondrous gushing of this man-made water feature below one of Oliwa Park’s many quaint bridges is another favourite spot of social media content creators, wedding photographers and other hopeless romantics looking for the perfect backdrop. | J‑3.

Ethnographic Museum

Located within the 18th-century Abbots’ Granary is a delightful little diversion, featuring three floors of numerous folk-related artefacts from Eastern Pomerania, and considered to be one of the best collections of its kind. Behind the museum is a community space that hosts the Letni Jarmark Etnograficzny (Summer Ethnographic Fair), a folksy craft market open 10:00 -16:00 from May 13 to Sept 17.

J-3, ul. Cystersów 19. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon.

Admission 8/4zł, Fri free.

Oliwa Cathedral

Taking pride of place at the western end of the park, Oliwa’s towering cathedral was originally built in the 12th century, and was burned down twice - once by a negligent kitchen boy in 1350, once during the Swedish invasion of 1626. The strangely beautiful interior is dominated by the extraordinary organ over the main entrance. Built between 1755 and 1780, it was once the largest organ of its kind in Europe, and features moving cherubs, fanfaring angels and a staggering 7,896 pipes covering 110 registers, allowing for an incredible range of pitch and sounds including rippling water, animal cries and human voices. Hear it for yourself during one of their frequent organ recitals; check the times online at: www.archikatedraoliwa.pl.

J‑2, ul. Biskupa Edmunda Nowickiego 5. Open 09:00 17:00; Sat 09:00 15:30; Sun 14:00 17:30. Admission free unless visiting during an organ recital.

Eat & Drink

As the home of Gdańsk’s zoo and favourite park, it’s no surprise that Oliwa’s gastro options have more of a family focus, however the prestige of Oliwa Park and the nearby Oliwa Business Centre also bring some finer dining options. More suburban than Wrzeszcz, you’ll struggle to find bars and clubs in this area; visit our website for more options.

COFFEE & BREAKFAST

Olivianka

K-2, ul. Stary Rynek Oliwski 19

Famous for their homemade ice cream, other tricks up this kid-friendly cafe’s sleeve include waffles in the shape of Poland and the city’s iconic cranes, and aromatic coffee!

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Przelewki

K-2, ul. Cystersów 12

Your best bet for coffee, with 2 methods in operation - espresso and brewed - plus an assortment of cakes to be enjoyed after a walk in the park.

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Tu Można Marzyć

K-3, Oliwski Ratusz Kultury, ul. Opata Jacka Rybińskiego 25

Translating to ‘You can dream here’, their breakfast menu is particularly wondrous: sweet and savoury, hot and cold, heavy and light.

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CASUAL DINING

Bistro Jak Się Masz?

K-3, ul. Opata Jacka Rybińskiego 24

Just across from Oliwa Park, this popular eatery has you covered for breakfast and lunch, with wraps, burgers and Polish mains at the forefront.

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Ryż

K-2, ul. Stary Rynek Oliwski 2

Translating to ‘Rice’, this Thai restaurant is known for its generous portions of wonderfully tasty dishes, served in a bright and attractive space.

2 Fischgarten

J-1, ul. Kościerska 1A

On the way to Oliwa Zoo, Fischgarten’s outdoor dining space is perfect for families and those looking to avoid the crowds in the big park.

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FINE DINING

Arco by Paco Pérez

Aleja Grunwaldzka 472A

A high-quality restaurant on the 33rd floor of Olivia Star, run by world-famous Catalan chef and holder of 5 Michelin stars Paco Pérez.

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Restauracja w Pałacu Opatów

J-3, Oliwa Park, ul. Cystersów 18 Old school dining in the Abbots’ Palace, with a posh but cosy interior and a lush green outdoor space in summer.

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NIGHTLIFE

Pro’Rock Pub

J-5, Plac Dworcowy 2

In complete opposition to Oliwa’s image of refinement and elegance, this rowdy establishment specialises in heavy metal, rock karaoke, and beer!

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Sopot

Poland’s most famous seaside spa resort, Sopot grew from a small bathhouse in 1823, to become the Baltic Monte Carlo by the early 20th century. Damaged by WWII, the city took on a more bohemian vibe during the communist era and today its artistic energy infuses the Tri-city’s most epic nightlife scene. If you want a beach town with lots of buzz, Sopot is for you.

Walking Tour

This 2km walking tour takes you from Sopot train station, through its bustling historic centre, down to the pier - a route you could easily do without a map by just following the crowds. It’s not an ambitious itinerary, because that’s not what Sopot is about; most come here for the beach and the bars. That said, do take time to explore the town’s sidestreets and extended beachfront to discover more of its true character and hidden gems.

Garrison Church of St. George

Built at the turn of the 19th/20th century, the Neo-Gothic Garrison Church of St. George stands on the site of Sopot’s former market square. Originally Evangelist, the church has been Roman Catholic since Sopot’s re-incorporation into Poland in 1945. The well-like structure outside is now a chapel sheltering a statue of St. Adalbert, a Czech missionary who was martyred in 997 after trying to convert the pagan population near Elbląg, 72km south-east of here. His name was later attributed to the ‘miracle’ of natural bromide springs in the area (see #5).

M‑6, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja. Open 07:30 18:00; Sun 07:30 19:30.

Wojtek, the Soldier Bear

Let’s ‘paws’ near the top of ul. Monte Cassino to learn why Sopot’s famous high street has an Italian name and bronze bear sculpture. First off, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino (‘The Heroes of Monte Cassino Street’ or ‘Monciak’ as it’s known by locals), commemorates the II Polish Corps who fought in the Italian campaign of WWII, specifically those who broke the German line at the Battle of Monte Cassino. Formed by Soviet-exiled Poles in

Crooked House

Opened in 2004, this award-winning, exceedingly higgledy-piggledy building by Polish architecture firm Szotyńscy & Zaleski was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of Jan Marcin Szancer (1902-1973) and the drawings of the Swedish artist and Sopot resident Per Dahlberg. The most photographed building in Sopot, the crooked house hosts many crooked-looking folks after dark, thanks to the mass of bars and clubs inside!

State Art Gallery

Iran in 1942, the II Corps famously adopted an orphaned bear cub whose mother had been shot by hunters. Named Wojtek, the Corps’ mascot was actually trained to move crates of ammunition during battle! He achieved the rank of corporal and had his own rations, including beer which he became unnaturally fond of. After the war, Wojtek lived out his years in Edinburgh Zoo until his death in 1963. This statue was unveiled in 2019. M-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino.

Bolstering its perhaps overlooked reputation as an artsy city, Sopot boasts one of the best art galleries in the country. This modern 1200m2 space realises a range of high-quality temporary exhibits from contemporary to traditional, from painting to performance art, from Poland and abroad. Drop in to see what’s on display on your way down to the pier. Next door is a handy tourist information office. N‑6, Pl. Zdrojowy 2. Open 10:00 19:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Wed free. U

O-6, ul. Haffnera 6.

Cruising down 'Monciak' - Sopot's always happening pedestrian high street.

Inhalation Mushrooms

When French army physician Jean Georg Haffner - who built Sopot’s first spa house in 1823heard rumours of the healing waters of Sopot’s St. Adalbert spring, the savvy locals were apparently keyed in on the ground water’s high level of bromide and iodine, in addition to magnesium potassium and potassium iodine. Bathing in such water is recommended for those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism, and a further-diluted variation of the spring can be drunk to help gastrointestinal issues. These glass-domed ‘inhalation mushrooms’ release the water as a mist and breathing in the iodine-filled air is recommended for a whole host of respiratory complaints. You can taste the water by popping into the café on the third floor of the Sopot Tourism Association’s point in The Spa House (see #9). N-6, Pl. Zdrojowy.

South Park

When Monsieur Haffner started developing the Grand Spa complex in 1823, he wanted to ensure that his guests had somewhere peaceful to lounge about. Thus, the South Park and, later, the North Park (1km north of here), were created. In the 1990s, the South Park was renovated to give it the feeling of its 1920s ‘golden-era’. After the Smoleńsk Air Disaster in 2010, which claimed 96 lives, including then-President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria, the park was renamed in their honour. N/O-7, ul. Piastów 5.

apartments in the best locations of the Tri-City

Guests a year of Guests satisfied years on the market

Sopot Branch

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Rest, we'll take care of the rest.

Polish Science Fact: Inhaling mushrooms = good for the lungs.

Old Lighthouse

Built as part of a grand spa complex at the very beginning of the 20th century, the design of Sopot’s lighthouse is rather ingenious, in that the structure’s primary function was that of a chimney for the boiler that heated the spa waters. The architect came up with the idea of disguising the chimney by constructing a viewing tower and lighthouse around it. A stone spiral staircase takes you up 135 steps to the 25m viewing platform, providing a wonderful 360-degree view and photo opportunities of the coast, pier and the rooftops of Sopot.

N‑6, Pl. Zdrojowy 3. Open 10:00 21:00. Admission 9/6zł.

Sopot Pier

Providing stunning views of the Baltic, Sopot pier was built in 1827 and has been renovated several times since. At 511m, it’s the longest wooden pier in Europe (Southend-on-Sea in the UK is the longest overall in case you were wondering). At its tip is a marina, a restaurant and a raised viewing platform. Note that you have to pay to enter the pier at certain times during the high season, and alcohol is not permitted.

O‑6. Open 24hrs. Admission 9/4.50zł. 6

The Spa House

For 200 years Sopot has attracted visitors from all over the world with its rejuvenating spas and health resorts. The heart of Sopot’s spa district is the historic Spa House with its wonderful rotunda overlooking the fountain, gardens and pier. The first spa house was built here in 1824; by the early 20th century it included ballrooms, restaurants, a hotel and a casino. The current incarnation, from 2009, is the fourth spa house, and includes the State Art Gallery (#4), a tourist info office, restaurants, cafes and, of course, a spa.

N‑6, Powstańców Warszawy 2.

The Grand Hotel

Formerly the 'Kasino Hotel,' this indeed grand building is one of Sopot's defining landmarks. Opened in 1927, it was dubbed the ‘Monaco of the Baltic’ and began attracting the rich and famous. Notable guests have included Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Fidel Castro, Adolf Hitler, Vladimir Putin, The Shah of Iran, Charles de Gaulle and Omar Sharif. Still retaining much of its classic interwar look, if you're not a guest you can get a look at the interiors by having a meal at the hotel's Art Deco Restaurant.

O-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14.

Sopot pier (molo) - the longest wooden seaplank in Europe!

Sopot Fort

The oldest living museum in the Tri-city, built on the site of a fortified hilltop settlement believed to have been used between the 8th and 14th century. Today a branch of the Archaeological Museum, a visit involves two parts: the new indoor exhibition hall, and the medieval outdoor settlement which was reconstructed in 2000 to be an exact replica of what once stood here. Consisting of thatched roof wooden huts, live goats (which kids can feed) and re-enactors in period costume, this one is best with kids when the weather is nice and workshops are taking place. Nearest station: Sopot Kamienny Potok. Visiting time: 90mins.

ul. Haffnera 63. Open 09:00 17:00; closed Mon.

Admission 12/10zł; Tue free.

Forest Opera

A wonderful open-air arena set in a hollow of the forest, this 4400-seat performance venue has existed since 1909, rising to international fame with the Sopot Song Festival - the Soviet Bloc’s answer to the Eurovision Song Contest - from 1964 onwards. Even when there isn’t a performance, this legendary venue is open for visitors who want to tour the grounds and exhibits; if not, it's a good starting point for a number of hikes, one of which leads to a splendid viewpoint overlooking the bay. You’ll find it a 10-15min walk uphill east of Sopot Station.

ul. Moniuszki 12, www. bart.sopot.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission free. L

Eat & Drink

Recognised as the region’s party capital, clubbers will have all they can handle in Sopot, while those who look past the main street will find alternative bars and pubs with a devoted local following. When it comes to dining the choice is vast and caters to all budgets, from beachside taverns to Gatsby glamour. Visit IYP online for more recommendations.

COFFEE & BREAKFAST

La Bagatela

M-7,ul. Dworcowa 5, Found within the main train station, we love this spot for its freshly-baked bread, aromatic pastries, tarts, and croissants …oh, and coffee!

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LAS

N-5, ul. Haffnera 42

Designed by an artist and run by a dietitian and world-champion coffee roaster, there’s no healthier way to kickstart your day in Sopot!

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Piaskownica

ul. Powstańców Warszawy 88

A 15-min walk north of central Sopot, reward yourself with a scrumptious breakfast and seafood selection in this charming and secluded beachside location!

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CASUAL DINING

Browar Miejski

M-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte

Cassino 35

With a menu of Polish staples and international favourites, alongside 8 in-house brewed beers, the ‘city brewery’ is a great all-round option for eat and drink.

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M15

ul. Mamuszki 15

A beach-side Kashubian-inspired restaurant, specialising in fresh, locally-hooked fish. They also offer pizza, pasta and burgers, and the beach playground is great for kids.

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Moshi Moshi

N-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte

Cassino 63/1

An attractive spot in the centre of town that delivers a comprehensive choice of excellent Japanese cuisine courtesy of its passionate chefs.

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Seafood Station

M-7, ul. Dworcowa 7

Exquisitely prepared seafood, from British-style fish and chips to lobster, king crab, oysters, combined with a carefully-crafted drinks menu.

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Adam Gessler Sopot

N-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte

Cassino 60

Created by Poland’s celebrity gastro family, the Gesslers, here you can enjoy Polish cuisine that you’ve seen whipped up in the open cooking area.

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FINE DINING

1911

N-6, ul. Grunwaldzka 4/6

Traditional European cuisine meets modernity at this cosy little restaurant just around the corner from Sopot’s main tourist drag.

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Sopot 737 L’entre Villes Restaurant

L-8, Aleja Niepodległości 737, A stunning turn-of-the-century villa, featuring a bistro, winter garden, bar and winery area, with menu and service to match its elegance.

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BARS

Avangarda

M-7, ul. Dworcowa 7

No pretensions here - This is a centrally-located bar with a great selection of beer, cocktails, and spirits, plus snacks, and occasional live music. Always a good time to be had here!

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Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky

N-6, ul. Grunwaldzka 1-3

Air-con’d and beach-side, this premium spirits bar is stacked to the roof with endless cocktail mixers and 700 different types of whiskey!

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M-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte

Cassino 5/U2

Easy-going contemporary bar up the very top of Monciak, with American-style pub food and supposedly the largest selection of craft beer in the Tri-city!

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Teatr BOTO

N-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte

Cassino 54B

Exuding Sopot’s old school artistic and independent vibe, BOTO allows you to kick back with a beer and enjoy their fantastic live music roster.

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LATE NIGHT

3 Siostry

N-6, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6

Run by 3 sisters, this is the best club that resides in the Crooked House on Monciak, famous for its homemade strawberry-flavoured tincture.

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Carnivale

M-7, ul. Kościuszki 16/4

Hidden behind the main station, Carnivale is something of a bestkept secret when it comes to Sopot’s nightlife! The staff are cool, the beats are hard, and the good times roll.

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Koliba

ul. Powstańców Warszawy 90

A place you would expect to find in Poland’s mountainous south, this traditional hunting lodge on the beach is a restaurant by day, and a riotous night club after dark!

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SPATiF

N-6, ul. Bohaterów Monte

Cassino 54

One of the enduring legends of Sopot, SPATiF’s eclectic and avantgarde interior hosts late night club events and live music. Be aware of the strict door policy!

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Gdynia

A small fishing village at the end of WWI, Gdynia developed rapidly as a rival port to the Free City of Gdańsk during the interwar years, when it found itself at the end of the 'Polish Corridor’ - a thin strip of territory giving the new Polish Republic sea access. Although often overlooked by tourists, Gdynia offers unique modernist architecture, top cultural attractions and plenty of beachfront to entice visitors.

Walking Tour

Beginning at Gdynia’s main train station, this 5km walking route takes you down to the waterfront via key points of interest in the city centre, with an opportunity to catch public transit to the excellent Emigration Museum. Along the way you’ll learn a bit about Gdynia’s short but dynamic history.

Displaced Gdynians Monument

Ul. Starowiejska (Old Village Street) was the main street of Gdynia until ul. Świętojanska was developed in the 1930s. It is here that you’ll find a particularly emotive monument in memory of Gdynians who were deported from the city following the Nazi takeover in 1939. Estimates range from 120,000 to 170,000 people from the Tri-city area, including an estimated 30,000 who were interred or sent as forced labour elsewhere in the Reich. As part of the Nazi’s policy of ‘Germanisation,’ Gdynia was renamed Gotenhafen (literally ‘Goth Port’), referencing the ancient East Germanic tribe of Goths that once inhabited the area. The city’s population in 1939 was about 127,000. By the end of the war, that number had dropped to 70,000. These sculptures, depicting a refugee family forced to abandon their dog as they walk in the direction of the railway station, were designed by Paweł Sasin and Adam Dziejowski and unveiled in 2014.

P-3, Pl. Gdynian Wysiedlonych.

Gdynia Market Hall

One of the few places left where you can get that authentic old-time shopping experience, Gdynia’s Hala Targowa (Market Hall) is a glimpse into post-communist Poland before the arrival of the western-style shopping malls and hypermarkets now so familiar across the region. Here, rows of independent traders offer everything from clothing to electronic equipment, local produce to fresh fish!

P-3, ul. Wójta Radtkiego 36-40. Open 08:00-16:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Crossroads!

Carry on along the prescribed walking route towards Gdynia’s waterfront?

Catch bus 133 from behind the market hall (ul. Jana z Kolna) to the Emigration Museum ('Dworzec Morski - Muzeum Emigracji' stop)?

Antoni Abraham Monument

Turning left onto Gdynia's main street, ul. Swiętojańska, and heading north will eventually bring you to a larger-than-life statue of Antoni Abraham. Born in 1869 in Zdrada, 25km north of Gdynia, Antoni was a Kashubian activist who campaigned for the incorporation of Kashubia into the newly-formed Polish state after WWI. His bitterness towards German rule was compounded when he, his two sons and his son-in-law were conscripted into the Kaiser's army in 1915. While in combat, all three younger men were killed in front of him, while Abraham himself was seriously wounded. Abraham attended the Paris Peace Conference of 1919, where the map of Europe was re-drawn following Germany's WWI defeat, and

Displaced Gdynians Monument.

Emigration Museum

Opened in 2015, this is a fascinating look at how, why and to where millions of Poles have emigrated over the centuries. With Poland thought to have the sixth-largest diaspora in the world, numbering around 20 million, the museum does an excellent job of explaining the various situations, political and economic, which have made people consistently leave Poland to places like the USA, Australia and even Brazil. The museum is appropriately located in the former Dworzec Morski (Marine Station), which was the departure point for many Polish emigrants in the inter-war years. A visit is highly recommended, especially for those with Polish roots, with free access to Ancestry.com records assisting those doing family history research. To get to the museum, take bus number 119 (Mon-Sat only) or 133 (check that the destination is Dworzec Morski - Emigration Museum) from Gdynia Główna train station (bus stop is actually on ul. Jana z Kolna). Alternatively, a taxi will cost about 20zł or you can walk there in 20 minutes from the city centre. Visiting time: 2hrs.

R‑1, ul. Polska 1. Open 10:00 18:00; Tue 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1hr before closing.

Admission 18/13zł, kids under 7 free; Wed free T­U

the significant Kashubian delegation that supported Poland was crucial to large parts of Kashubia becoming Polish territory in 1920. This statue was unveiled in 2001 with the inscription ‘Syna Ziemi Kaszubskiej – Bojownika O Jej Polskość’ (Son of the Kashubian Land - Fighter for its Polishness). The yellow and black flag you see raised around the square is the flag of Kashubia.

Q-3, Pl.

Kaszubski

ORP ‘Błyskawica’ Warship

Known in Poland as ‘The Warship of the Polish Republic’ Błyskawica (Lightning) was one of the fastest destroyers in the world when it launched in 1936. Following the invasion of Poland by Nazi Germany, the ship and her crew were placed under the command of the British Navy. Her best-known engagement was in 1942 off the coast of the British Isle of Wight, when she successfully defended the town of Cowes from a Luftwaffe attack. While the ship’s captain and crew had correctly anticipated the attack and were armed and ready to fire back, this was actually in contravention to direct orders from the British Admiralty, and their heroism wouldn’t be

publicly acknowledged until 2004. Błyskawica was retired from service in 1969 and has since served as a museum ship, held in the sort of regard that the UK has reserved for the HMS Victory. It’s also the only ship to be awarded Poland’s highest military decoration, the Gold Cross of the Virtuti Militari Order. Viewing time: 1 hour.

R-3, Aleja Jana Pawła II. Open 10:00-13:00;14:00-18:00; closed Mon. Closed Jan-April. Last entrance 45mins before closing. Admission 30/19zł; family Ticket 83zł.

‘Dar Pomorza’ Museum Ship

One of the most well-travelled ships in Poland, this three-masted training vessel has visited 383 ports and clocked more than 800,000km in her time at sea. She began life as Prinzess Eitel Friedrich, constructed in 1909 in Hamburg to train cadets for the German navy, however, in 1920, the British commandeered her as part of post-WWI reparations. She was later given to the French Naval School in St. Nazaire and renamed Colbert. It was then passed on to the French-born Baron Maurice de Forest, who sold it for £7,000 to the Polish Naval Academy in Gdynia in 1929. Now Dar Pomorza (The Gift of Pomerania) it continued to be used as a

Board and explore this WWII-era warship in Gdynia.

training ship and has taken part in numerous sailing competitions, famously winning the Cutty Shark Trophy in 1980. After she was bestowed with the Order of Polonia Restituta, the highest decoration of the Polish State, she became part of the collection of National Maritime Museum in Gdańsk in 1983. Viewing time: 30mins.

R‑3, Al. Jana Pawła II (Nabrzeże Pomorskie). Open 10:00 18:00. In Sept open 10:00 16:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/15zł, kids under 7 free.

Joseph Conrad Monument

A name well-recognised in English literature, many people don’t know that Joseph Conrad was actually born Józef Teodor Konrad Korzeniowski (1857-1924), who hailed from Berdychiv (now Ukraine) and was a merchant-marine for almost 20 years before first being published. Notable works include The Secret Agent and Heart Of Darkness, the latter of which inspired the 1971 film Apocalypse Now. Conrad had no known connections with Gdynia and this sculpture simply lays claim to his Polish nationality and the influence that his sea-faring years had on his works. The inscription, taken from his novel Lord Jim, reads: “Nic tak nie nęci, nie rozczarowuje i nie zniewala, jak życie na morzu” (There is nothing more enticing, disenchanting, and enslaving than life at sea).

Centrum Nauki Experyment

An excellent entertainment option in Gdynia, particularly if you have younger children in tow. The Experyment Science Centre is found in a brand new glass building and forms the showpiece of the Pomeranian Science &Technology Park, one of the city’s proudest investments. The various interactive displays or ‘experiments’ are classified into one of five categories: Hydroworld, Operation Human, The Tree of Life, Invisible Forces and Towards Health. Visitors are encouraged to learn about different phenomena in our everyday lives by pushing, pulling, jumping and experiencing, rather than simply looking. Thanks to English and Russian translations, most foreign guests can gain a full understanding of each exhibit. Though all set inside one large open room, the number of experiments and sheer fun of it all will keep kids and parents busy for hours. Take advantage of their Friday Happy Hours: after 15:00, tickets are only 10zł per person! Nearest station: Gdynia Redłowo. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.

Al. Zwycięstwa 96/98. Open 09:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00; closed Mon (except July & Aug). Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission 25/20zł; family ticket (2+1) 65zł, every next person (child or adult) 10zł. T­U

S-4, Al. Jana Pawła II 1.

Monument to Polish secret agent Joseph Conrad.

Gdynia Aquarium

Located in a building from the 1970s, this isn’t the most modern facility, but it is a great place to visit with kids, and, as it’s right on the waterfront, you might have a hard time avoiding it. Exhibits cover marine life from across the globe, including residents in Baltic waters, which is everything from fish, sharks and octopi to crocodiles, snakes, crabs and tortoises. In total, there approximately 2,000 aquatic and water-land animals living in more than 130 metric tonnes of water. They also delve into the evolution of submersible technology through

views are also great, whether you’re looking at the sea, the city, or its people. With plenty of space, the beach stays packed in the summer months and serves as the city’s natural gravitation point.

Crossroads!

Head east to the Stone Hill funicular (#11) for great views over the city and seacoast?

Stay grounded and stroll south along Bulwar Nadmorski (#12) towards Gdynia Redłowa?

the decades and current issues relating to the sea environment. Viewing time: 1-2hrs.

S-4, Al. Jana Pawła II 1. Open 09:00-20:00; July & Aug open 09:00-21:00; in Sept open 09:00-19:00. Admission 38/28zł; from Sept 33/24zł; kids under 5 free.

Gdynia City Beach

Gdynia’s city-centre beach outshines its neighbours with modern shower and toilet facilities, a fantastic playground for kids, beach volleyball courts, and numerous bars and restaurants. The

Gdynia Naval Museum

Like toys on a messy bedroom floor, the grounds of this open-air maritime museum boast a gigantic collection of guns, cannons, fighter planes and other paraphernalia that constitute the main part of the collection. Meanwhile, inside you’ll more bombs and artillery, as well as some very impressive wooden models of famous ships on the upper floor. Viewing time: 1hr.

R-4, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1B. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/19zł, Sun free.

Gdynia City Beach in summer. Photo by Krzysztof Romański, c/o City of Gdynia.

Gdynia Orłowo

Directly two train stops between Gdynia (to the north) and Sopot (to the south) lies Gdynia Orłowo - arguably the Tri-city's most scenic piece of coastline. A walk from the station to the sea only takes 15mins; along the way you'll pass some of the interbellum villas that characterise the area, including the Willa Lubicz hotel, looking like the setting of an Agatha Christie whodunit. Orłowo began to develop just after WWI, when a Polish seaside resort to compete with Sopot was envisioned. A Therapeutic House (today abandoned) and pier were built and stately guesthouses cropped up to accommodate holiday makers. It was during this period that Polish author Stefan Żeromski used the scenic spot as a writer's retreat; the small cottage he lived in is today a museum. WWII halted the resort's development, resulting in the peaceful and charming coastal neighbourhood we have today. The iconic Orłowski Cliff, 180m wooden Orłowski Pier and several old fishing boats on the sand make the area popular with couples and photographers, and there are several decent eateries nearby. If you're up for it, consider hiking the trails north through the nature preserve, and keep your eyes peeled for military bunkers. Nearest station: Gdynia Orłowo.

Gdynia City Museum

A modern museum presenting the short but fascinating history of this relatively young city. See photography collections of early Gdynia, watch the accounts of people who lived through both German and Russian occupations, listen to local music of the communist era and read accounts from an incredibly diverse population that lived here in the early 20th century.  Viewing time: 1hr.

R‑4, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1. Open 10:00 18:00; Wed 12:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 17:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/7zł; kids under 7 free; Tue free. U

Stone Hill Funicular

A great view of the Hel peninsula and the Baltic Sea awaits you at the top of Kamienna Góra, a stoney hill in the heart of the city. Use the modern glass gondola to get you up, or burn more calories on the nearby stairs. From the City Museum, head along ul. Franciszka Sędzickiego and follow the path behind the Theatre building.

The gondola is next to the entrance of the Outdoor Music Shell in the park.

Q-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:0022:00. Admission free.

Bulwar Nadmorski

A favourite of local Gdynians who are out on a pleasure stroll to take in the Baltic seabreeze , Bulwar  Nadmorski (Seaside Boulevard) is more than just a pedestrian strip. If you look over the seaside edge, you can see the curved base, which acts as a breakwater against big waves eroding the coastline. Baltic weather is known for its severity, and the first concrete path, built in the 1930s, was actually destroyed in a huge storm in 1949. So far, the current version, dating from 1969, continues to withstand nature’s worst! In summer, when the weather is considerably better, the bulwar often hosts market stalls, mobile stages and live music during festival events.

R-5, Bulwar Nadmorski im. Feliksa Nowowiejskiego.

Stone Hill Funicular.

Eat & Drink

Believe it or not, the serious sister of the Tri-city family isn’t such a dull place when it comes to gastronomy. Although nightlife isn’t a strong point (that’s Sopot’s domain), here you’ll find an intriguing selection of unique places that Gdynia offers up for its own enjoyment, as opposed to that of the tourist crowd. For more, visit our website.

COFFEE & BREAKFAST

Aleja 40

Q-5, Aleja Piłsudskiego 40

Enjoy breakfast and a coffee in an urban residential setting, with Gdynia’s Central Park located just across the road.

0129

Coffee Shop Happy People

Q-4, ul. Świętojańska 49

One of Gdynia’s most successful coffee ventures, now serving bagel sandwiches, a scrumptious range of croissants & scrolls, and refreshing ‘orange espressos’!

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Kosmos

Q-3, Starowiejska 25

A new cafe venture by one of the Tri-city’s most sought-after baristas, residing in a funky retro shorefront on Gdynia’s oldest street. Coffee lovers, mark this one!

CASUAL DINING

Crudo - Steak, Wine & Seafood

Q-4, ul. Świętojańska 43

The name says it all - an extremely smart space dealing in the three essentials of fine dining. Great for dates and/or self-indulgence.

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Searcle Gdynia

R-3, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19

The rich and plentiful sea, nearby forests and fields are all key sources of inspiration behind the concept of this restaurant, ideally located on Gdynia’s seafront.

259

Tłusta Kaczka

ul Spółdzielcza 2 (Gdynia Orłowo)

Exceptionally wholesome Polish cuisine cooked with fresh local ingredients, served in a cosy modern lodge interior in lovely green Gdynia Orłowo.

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FINE DINING

Biały Królik

ul. Folwarczna 2 (Gdynia Orłowo) Set in a restored manor house in Orłowo, this fine dining affair serves exceptional and imaginative local cuisine in incredibly stylish surroundings.

659

NIGHTLIFE

Blues Club

Q-2, ul. Portowa 9

Gdynia’s internationally-renowned blues bar is the perfect place to knock back a drink and enjoy quality live music from Poland and abroad.

2839

Carnivale

R-3, ul. Starowiejska 28

A psychedelic nightlife experience in the heart of Gdynia, complete with crazy clowns, mismatched furniture and a funky drinks menu. 849

Tri-city Day Trips

Run out of places to explore in the Tri-city?

Of course not, but take note that the surrounding region offers an additional wealth of wondrous places worth discovering.

1 Hel

Across the Bay of Gdańsk, the Hel Peninsula is a lot more heavenly than it sounds. This thin strip of land projecting into the Baltic is only 100 metres across at its most narrow point and offers pristine beaches on all sides. At its very tip, the charming village of Hel is home to lovely brick and timber architecture, a colony of seals at its famous Fokarium (Seal Centre), and delicious daily catches of fresh fish - dine out during your visit. Taking the water tram is part of the experience, and a cheaper alternative to a private sea cruise.

Getting there: Seasonal water trams run from Gdańsk (2.5hrs), Sopot (1.5hrs) or Gdynia (1hr); while trains also run all the way to the end of the peninsula from Gdynia (90mins).

3 Malbork

62km south-east of Gdańsk is Malbork Castle - the world’s biggest brick fortress, and inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. One of Poland’s most impressive historical sites, this stunning castle complex was built in the 13th-century by the once-dominant Order of Teutonic Knights, and is so big that its incredible architecture, artefacts and exhibits take most of a day to explore. Malbork hosts many markets in the summer time, as well as medieval fairs and exciting jousting tournaments.

Getting there: Take a regional train from Gdańsk (1hr) and walk to the castle (15mins).

4 Elbląg

55km south-east of Gdańsk, Elbląg is another regional centre established by the Teutonic Order in the 13th century and boasts a picturesque Old Town with many medieval monuments and lovely riverside location. Those visiting by car may want to head another 30km south to the Elbląg Canal - a brilliant piece of 19th-century engineering that transfers boats between two waterways via a railway system, and has been named one of the ‘7 Wonders of Poland.’

Getting there: Take a regional train from Gdańsk (1hr 20mins).

5 Stutthof

2 Słowiński National Park

Avoid the popular seaside village of Łeba - an overly commercial destination drenched in domestic tourism - and escape into the dunes. Located 97km north-west of Gdańsk, Słowiński National Park is home to the biggest sands dunes in Europe, backing onto a stunning forest of pines, a uniquely-formed coastal lake and an extra 32.5km of coastline to explore. Pack food and supplies, rent a bike and go wild!

Getting there: Take the train to Lębork (60-90mins), then catch the bus to Łeba (40mins). Rent a bike when you get there and head west along the coast.

The first Nazi death camp built outside of Germany and the last to be liberated, some 110,000 prisoners from 28 different countries (the majority Poles and Jews) were held here, with 68,000 perishing inside. Today a museum and memorial, among the horrific details is evidence of Nazi experiments to produce soap from the body fat of victims. Set within the forest just a few kilometres from the beach, this peaceful and seldom-visited former camp has a different atmosphere than Auschwitz, but an equally lasting effect.

Getting there: Take Bus 870 - marked either ‘Sztutowo’ or ‘Krynica Morska’ - from Gdańsk Bus Station and travel 55km east.

Run To Toruń

Idyllically located on a bend of the Vistula River, Toruń is one of Poland’s most treasured historic sites, famous for its Gothic architecture, gingerbread and Copernicus connections. Toruń’s Old Town, full of medieval brick buildings, cobblestone lanes, gas lanterns and stained glass, exudes an undeniable fairy-tale magic that has earned its entry onto the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Star Attractions

Embodying all the charms of the quintessential medieval city you have in your imagination, the joy of Toruń is in wandering around its historical centre and discovering its many stunning architectural monuments. These include the Old Town Hallreplete with a gorgeous collection of Gothic art, precious stained glass windows and a 40m clock tower with an open-air viewing terrace; St. James the Greater Church - a 13th century Gothic masterpiece considered by many to be the most beautiful church in Europe; several soaring city gates and brick towers along the medieval defensive walls, including the Leaning Tower of Toruń; the ruins of the Teutonic Castle; and Philadelphia Boulevard - the city’s riverside promenade.

Riverside Recreation

When the weather’s warm it’s only natural to gravitate towards the river. Philadelphia Boulevard buzzes with activity late into the night, and you’ll find no shortage of river barges offering food, drink and deckchairs along the embankments, plus the opportunity to take a scenic river cruise on the Wisła, or even rent a sailboat if you so desire (wolnawisla.pl).

All it takes to get away from the tourist crowds is a short trip on the ferry (or over the bridge) to the opposite shore and into the wilds of Kępa Barazowa - an enchanting nature reserve with great views of the Old Town. Ideal for hiking and birdwatching, it’s easy to lose yourself here, or forget the waterfowl and do some people-watching at the popular beach just 700m west of the viewpoint. While you’re there, check out the ruins of Dybów Castle - a 15th stronghold built to challenge the Teutonic Order on the other side of the river.

Toruń also proudly boasts several museums and monuments connected to famed astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus, who grew up in Toruń before literally turning the universe inside-out with his revolutionary work positing that the Earth rotates around the sun, and not vice versa. The astronomer’s childhood home is not only an excellent interactive multimedia museum today, but also boasts one of the finest facades you’ll see anywhere. Naturally, the city possesses a state-of-the-art planetarium, and also the multimedia Cosmopolis fountain, which puts on an amazing liquid, light and sound show in the evenings (until Oct. 31) in homage to Copernicus and his contributions to our understanding of the solar system.

Learn more about all there is to see and do in Toruń!

Getting to Toruń

170km south of Gdańsk, Toruń can easily be done as a day trip, but be advised that the city’s charms tend to inspire longer stays (consider spending the night). Located on the A1 motorway (European No. E75), by car you can get there in 1hr 40mins. Buses (30-40zł) and trains (60zł) both run regularly with similar journey times of 2hrs 20-40mins.

Inside the Nicolaus Copernicus House museum.

Summer entertainment on Torun's riverside.

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