Katowice In Your Pocket - November 2017 - Feburary 2018

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Katowice No. 32, November 2017 - February 2018

Silesian Stadium: Back in Business! p.6 Departures Festival p.16 Christmas Fair p.20

No. 32 - 5zł

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Contents

Katowice

Feature Silesian Stadium p.6 Silesian Stadium in 1956 | Š fotopolska.eu

Arrival & Transport

10

Shopping

72

City Basics

14

Directory

77

Culture & Events 16

Hotels

78

CafĂŠs

22

Maps & Indexes

Restaurants

24

Nightlife

42

Sightseeing Essential Katowice

Further Afield

51

Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec Tychy Auschwitz

59 62 64

Leisure

68 70

Silesia Park iyp.me/polandblog

Katowice City Map Katowice Centre Map Region Map Street Index Listings & Features Index

80 82 83 84 86

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November 2017 - February 2018

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Foreword Welcome to issue 32 of Katowice In Your Pocket – your guide to the city and greater Silesia! You are lucky to be in the city at this special time of year, which allows you to experience the golden Polish autumn and, of course, Christmas and New Year! This crunchy-leaf scarf-wearing season is the perfect time to go for a walk in Chorzow’s Silesia Park, and check out the recently reopened Silesian Stadium (p6). Once it does get a bit too cold for comfort, or heaven forbid the white stuff descends well before it’s welcome, there is a host of indoor activities and events to keep you entertained through the deepest darkest days of winter. A visit to one of the region’s many premier cultural attractions is a must and the first on your radar should be the Silesian Museum (p54). If you play your cards right you can visit the museum by day and then catch a concert at the world-class NOSPR Symphony Hall next door (p56). You can find a full list of upcoming events in our What’s On section (p16). We’d be silly not to namedrop the reason for the season: Christmas. Katowice will be presenting the traditional Christmas Fair on the Market Square (Rynek) in December, so don’t miss it!

Seasons Greetings from all of us here at IYP!

COVER STORY

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-127 Kraków katowice@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 PR & Marketing: Juan M Sarabia, 692 362 833 Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716 Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek, 668 876 351 Warsaw Manager: Jarosław Śliwiński, 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Urbanowicz, 606 749 642 Gdańsk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Matyjas, 784 966 824 Editorial Editor: Andrew Elliott; Research: Gabriela Mańkut; Events: Monika Boguszewska Stopka 882 07 97 23, Emilia Meres; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © Alex Wiśniewski courtesy of Katowice City Council Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k.

Maps copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Katowice’s Rynek (market square) at night, all nicely lit up. Not so long ago, this was just one huge ugly roundabout.

But no more, for Katowice has been spruced up! Photo by Alex Wiśniewski courtesy of Katowice City Council.

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Katowice, ul. Drzymały 9 726 111 222 godziny otwarcia : 12-22.30 www.buddha-restaurant.pl

A new field awaiting new legends to be created

Silesian Stadium: Back in Business!

At long last, the sporting gem of Silesia, the Silesian Stadium, is back in business.

The one time home of Polish national football, and the scene of many historical sporting events, the future looks bright for this fancy modernised stadium.

There’s history and emotion in the very foundations of this place, so allow us, if you will, to get you up to speed...

6 Katowice In Your Pocket

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Silesian Stadium October 2017 marked a very important milestone in Silesia.

Stadion Śląski (Silesian Stadium), the scene of so much sporting history, finally re-opened, and not a moment too soon! The modernisation process, which began in 2009 and lasted 8 years was finally over! There were times when the work looked shaky, like it may come to a halt and never be completed. But this is Stadion Śląski. It could never be allowed to fail.

Strong words for what is, essentially, just a sports ground.

But this isn’t any ole sports ground; there is emotion, history and politics spanning decades tied to this site. It is also a place where legends of football have played, ranging from Johan Cruyff, George Best and Cristiano Ronaldo, teams like FC Barcelona, Bayern Munich and the last European team visit in 2000 by Inter Milan. To understand why this place is not only important to Silesians, but Poles alike, we need to delve back, like all good stories, to the very beginning...

Following the firestorm of destruction unleashed by WWII, post-war Poland resembled a giant brickyard as the nation set about rebuilding itself. 1950 saw the decision undertaken to build the Silesian Stadium in Chorzów as part of an ambitious public space project, the Park of Culture & Recreation (one of the largest parks in Europe!) and Julian Brzuchowski got the job of designing the socialist realist monstrosity. Construction began in 1951 with many keen patriots volunteering to work on the project for free. Despite this, it still took a government outlay of 1.5 million złoty (a staggering amount at the time) to complete it.

Open with much propagandist fanfare as a symbol of Poland’s post-war ‘rebirth’ in 1956, this Socialist Realist behemoth built out of red and white sandstone, granite and, of course, concrete has been the region’s premier sports arena for decades. The opening match was scheduled against East Germany on 22 July 1956 and designated ‘Rebirth of Poland Day’, a new communist holiday celebrating liberation from Nazi occupation.

Festivities included a parade and an honorary flyover by three fighter planes, however, the Germans naturally ruined the day with a 2-0 win.

With an official capacity of 87,000, crowds regularly exceeded that figure thanks to plenty of standing room and in 1963 a record 120,000 squeezed in to watch visiting FK Austria Wien take on Górnik Zabrze. In 1993, Stadion Śląski became the official home of the Polish national team, thanks to the sorry state of the national stadium in Warsaw. Although for safety reasons capacity was reduced to 47,246, this remained the largest stadium in Poland, hosting speedway championships and other events, including massive concerts by bands like U2, ACDC, Iron Maiden and The Rolling Stones.

With a spate of newly planned stadiums to be built across Poland for the Euro 2012 football championships, Silesian Stadium’s status diminished and it was decided the iyp.me/polandblog

structure would undergo a damn thorough modernisation!

Despite unveiling plans to modernise the Stadium and increase capacity to 55,000, Chorzów didn’t make the shortlist of host cities for Euro 2012, losing out to Gdańsk, Warsaw, Poznań and Wrocław.

From 2009, the stadium underwent modernisation which included the construction of a 43,000 square metre roof, new stands, lighting, video screens and an improved sound system. Other facilities include a restaurant, food vendors and VIP boxes, and the speedway track has been replaced with a traditional track that will allow Chorzów to host international athletics events. Though originally planned to be completed by autumn 2011 for 415 million złoty, the finishing touches were only completed in 2017 costing around 650 million złoty. And not without some drama too! In 2011, the construction of the ambitious roof design collapsed, which many feared would be the nail in the coffin for the project, however, with new plans in place, such is the importance of this stadium that the determination to complete the project was huge. Ruch Chorzów were originally interested in moving into this new abode, however, rent costs led to a slight change in plan... meaning they will, for the foreseeable future, continue to play their home games at their current stadium, which they too plan to modernise.

That’s the rundown of the stadium, but now for the juicy stuff...

LEGENDS OF THE PAST, MEMORIES OF THE FUTURE

KATOWICKA 10, CHORZÓW VISIT STADIONSLASKI.PL FOR INFO ON STADIUM TOURS.

November 2017 - February 2018

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Silesian Stadium

As often happens, football took on a more important political role in the stadium’s history, when in a World Cup qualifier in October 1957 Poland (with 8 Silesians in the squad) beat the despised USSR 2-1 at a packed Stadion Śląski. Both goals were scored by Ruch’s Gerard Cieślik, who only learned he was playing the previous evening from the radio and had to take a day off from Huta Batory where he worked as turner. The victory was a great moment for the oppressed nation and the crowd’s enthusiasm was so great that they broke through militia cordons and celebrated in the showers with the players.

later led to a 1:1 draw in Wembley, knocking England out and sending Poland to the World Cup 1974 in Germany. This campaign became legendary as Poland’s fine form resulted in them coming 3rd, winning a bronze medal. And it was all possible thanks to what happened in the Witches’ Cauldron.

The next game of histrocial importance was in the 1969/70 football season, when Górnik Zabrze made it to the final of the European Cup Winner’s Cup Final. They got there by drawing 3:3 on aggreagate with AS Roma, having drawn 2:2 in a thrilling match in Stadion Śląski, and again drawing in the 2nd leg, 1:1 in Strasburg. The final decision as to who went through to the final was decided by the toss of a coin!

The coin which would decide the fate of each team was flicked up by the referee, eyes all around followed it with a skipped heartbeat, and when it settled, the arms of Górnik’s players shot up in the air as they celebrated their advance into the final. The fine run to the final was, unfortunately, spoiled by Manchester City who beat Górnik 2:1 in Vienna.

Despite this, the campagin is still fondly remembered in Silesia, and Poland!

Other memorable matches included a truly fantastic match against the Netherlands (one of the best teams in the world at the time) on 10 September 1975, which Poland won 4:1. Again, another night of European glory occurred on 11 October 2006 when Poland beat Portugal (whose team included a young Cristiano Ronaldo) 2:1, and was part of a succesful campaign to qualify for the European Championships in Austria/Switzerland 2008.

To most non-Poles, most likely the game they may remember here took place on 6 June 1973, when the only time in their history, Poland beat England. The noise in the stadium was so loud that English commentators dubbed it the ‘Witches’ Cauldron’. The game ended in a 2:0 win for Poland, which 8 Katowice In Your Pocket

The stadium was also used for Speedway competition, and again, in 1973, a truly good year for the stadium, it was here that the Individual Speedway World Championship final was won by Pole Jerzy Szczakiel (the first Pole to win, and to date, only one of two!).

To date, The Polish national team have played 55 official games at the Silesian Stadium, which 3 times led to World Cup qualification and once to the European Championships.

And now, we look to the future, with the stadium now spick-and-span, ready to host football matches, athletics track and field events, concerts, and, as is planned for 2018, a speedway leg of the European Championships (a nice homage to the sport’s connection to the stadium).

The stadium is now open for tours with full information and tour times available at stadionslaski.pl. We highly recommend a visit to this spiritual home of Silesian football! iyp.me/katowice

Silesian Stadium

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November 2017 - February 2018

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Arrival & Transport

Katowice Train Station

BY TRAIN For decades Katowice had a serious PR problem in the menacing shape of its own central train station - a truly ghastly architectural abomination that sheltered all manner of strange smells and a host of dubious characters. Having ourselves survived many a close encounter with tunnel dwelling riffraff and several existential dilemmas while commiserating in the communist era cafeteria, we are overjoyed to announce that those days are gone and no longer will travellers have to live in fear of drawing near to this huge communication hub. The loooong awaited, fully renovated and totally reconceptualised Katowice train station officially opened in October 2012 and was fully operational from April 2013. The finished product is indeed a thing of beauty (wait, are we still in Katowice?), and while it will undoubtedly take time for some people to fully scrub the industrial stain of the old train station from their memory, those arriving in the city for the first time will find themselves greeted by a fully modern metropolis that exceeds expectations. Congrats Katowice, it’s nice to meet you.

KATOWICE TRAIN STATION With a total investment estimated at 240 million euros, the new station welcomes 12 million passengers per year with 520 trains running through it every 24 hours. The station also incorporates an enormous and modern shopping mall (Galeria Katowicka) and an underground parking lot, with additional shopping and entertainment venues 10 Katowice In Your Pocket

on Szewczyk Square. The regional bus station under the station is already operational so if you are travelling somewhere in Silesia beyond Katowice, or on your way to the airport, head down one of the escalators in the main train terminal to grab a bus.

Besides the bevvy of modern conveniences and prestige the new station brings, perhaps the greatest advantage is its location and full integration as a local, national and international transport hub. From Sep-Jun, there are 8 daily trains from Katowice to Krakow at 3:34, 5:30, 7:21, 7:38, 11:05, 16:00, 16:29, 19:14 (check site from December onward in case of change to timetable). In July and August there are 9 direct trains from Katowice to Kraków.

Departure times: 03:22; 05:27; 07:19; 07:30; 07:48; 11:13; 15:32; 16:23; 19:16. The average journey time is between 2:05 - 2:15. It is also possible to travel between the cities of the Silesian Metropolis by local train (Koleje Śląskie) from around 5am-midnight; the trip to Zabrze is about 20 minutes, to Gliwice 30 minutes. Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow timetables while arrivals (przyjazdy) are white. The ticket offices for Intercity Trains are open 24hrs and for Koleje Śląskie 05:00 - 21:30.

For connections to other destinations in Poland or abroad, check the website or call the infoline.QB‑4, Pl. Szewczyka, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. iyp.me/katowice

Arrival & Transport

BY PLANE

RIDING THE POLISH RAILS

KATOWICE AIRPORT Katowice Airport is located 34km north east of Katowice in Pyrzowice, with frequent shuttle bus connections to and from Katowice. Two Departure Terminals, A and B, are situated side by side with a brand new Terminal C serving as the main Arrivals hub. Terminal C raises the airport’s projected passenger capacity from 3.6-4 million annual passengers to 5.5-6 million. All three terminals feature spotless toilets, money exchange counters, ATMs, information points, refreshment stops, pharmacy and car rental counters.

The Polish rail network has steadily improved over the last decade with new stations in most of the country’s major cities, new rolling stock, and new high-speed lines now available. The high-speed Pendolino route between Kraków and Gdańsk (via Warsaw), christened in 2014, has cut travel times between the north and south from 12 to only 5.5 hours. Though the costs of have increased, by western standards Polish rail travel is still very affordable, with a first-class ticket from Warsaw to Kraków costing about 150zł (€35).

The Airport has also recently updated its Business Traveller services for more comfortable arrivals and departures.

Services included an expanded Business Lounge, Fast Track check in and a new Meet & Assist program that provides all encompassing concierge and valet services. For more info check out their new website.

Taxis wait directly outside and can deliver you to Katowice for 95-160zł. (always confirm price first). ‘Airport Bus Service’/’Matuszek’ shuttle service makes the same journey for only 25zł (to Kraków for 50zł), and departure times from in front of both terminals are coordinated with flight arrivals (shuttles are even cheaper if you book online).

Dropping off at Pl. Andrzeja (A-4), you can pay cash to the driver on the spot or book ahead on their website: www. matuszek.com.pl.

Airport Buses arrive (and depart) in the new local bus terminal located under the central train station in the city center and you can find their schedule here: www.pkm. katowice.pl/lotnisko. Full schedules for flights, as well as other essential travel information can be found at the userfriendly www.katowice-airport.com. Qul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 392 72 02, www.katowiceairport.com.

Travel times can vary widely depending on the type of train making the journey. Generally the longer a train takes, the older the rolling stock, the less amenities it will have and the less comfortable you’ll be. The shorter the journey, the nicer the train (and higher the ticket price). The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run so many different classifications of train that it makes the head spin, but here’s a quick run-down.

Express InterCity Premium (EIP): the fastest and most comfortable trains which PKP offer (Pendolino), includes electrical sockets, limited wi-fi, adjustable seats and a restaurant carriage serving food and refreshments.

Express InterCity (EIC): comfortable first and second class compartments, which include electrical sockets and limited wi-fi service. InterCity (IC) trains are modern, comfortable and relatively cheap and will get you to wherever you need to go. EuroCity/EuroNight (EC/EN) are the perfect choice for rail trips around Europe. EuroCity trains are quick connections to major European cities, and EuroNight are fast international night trains.

Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), are much cheaper and older trains with mostly second class compartments, requiring no prior reservation - just board and find yourself a seat. You may find yourself on a TLK route if you’re travelling to a small town. Our advice is not to show up early, as these routes are often overcrowded and you may be forced to sit or stand in the aisle.

For more information on train times and prices check the official website of Polish Railways - www.rozklad. pkp.pl, or try the very useful route planning site e-podroznik.pl. On the former you can book a ticket without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on most trains (except EIP trains!) and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a 10zł surcharge for this, but credit cards are now accepted.

Katowice-Pyrzowice Airport

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UserPiotrus, CC BY-SA 3.0

November 2017 - February 2018 11

Arrival & Transport

BY BUS

BY CAR

BUS STATION To call Katowice Bus Station (B-2) a ‘bus station’ is a bit of a misnomer. In reality, it’s little more than a small tin shed. Inside you’ll find a small waiting room (open 06:00 - 20:00) and all departures (odjazdy) and arrival times (przyjazdy) noted up on the board (most tickets have to be purchased directly from bus drivers). Outside the few departure lanes offer very little shelter from the elements but there is a drink and snacks shack, and a 24hr bathroom.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.

All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunkdriving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. You can use your home driving license or an international driving permit for six months from the entry date on your passport.

Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

Katowice is a straight 75km drive west from Kraków along the A4 highway, one of the better stretches of road in the country, but it’s smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. Toll gates can be found at either end at which you will need to pay 20zł if driving a car. This brings you in on Al. Górnośląska (J-5). The other major route in will bring you along route 79 onto ul. Chorzowska (B-1). Driving around Katowice can be a bit hellish for those uninitiated to the complexity of the city’s oneway streets and the constant presence of roadwork, so we recommend you ditch your vehicle at the earliest opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is also available and generally operates under the control of a local parking warden. He will be wandering along his patch wearing a bib of some colour checking to see who’s naughty and nice. Parking prices are 2 zł for the first hour, 2,40zł for the second hour, 2,80zł for the third and 2zł per hour after that.

Located in the heart of town next to the new Supersam shopping mall, to get your bearing after arrival take a swift left turn at ul. Mickiewicza (B-2) and within three minutes you’ll find yourself staring at the principal main street, ul. Stawowa (B-2). You’ll have to go further onto the Rynek (C-3) to find the nearest tourist information point, however. While it doesn’t offer tickets or phone cards (buy those at most kiosks), it does offer maps and advice and there is also internet. ​For info on local city buses see Public Transport.QB‑2, ul. Skargi 1, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 15, www.katowicedworzec.pl.

CAR RENTAL AVIS Avis is Poland’s biggest car rental company and offers a complete range of vehicles for rent throughout Poland.

They are located in the city center in Altus and at ul.

Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 601 35 48 12.

Open 08:00 - 00:30 (on weekends call to make a reservation at both locations).QB‑6, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 257 20 70, www.avis.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EUROPCAR Europcar offers a full range of vehicles from small hatchbacks, through Mercedes and up to mini-bus and vans. Check the website for additional offers. Also at ul.

Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 32 285 50 41, Open 09:00 - 24:00.QA‑1, ul. Chorzowska 50, tel. (+48) 32 209 57 45, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun, The offices can be staffed outside of these hours for extra payment.

A wide range of cars including BMW, Skoda, Kia, Opel and Nissan.

All cars are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website.

QC‑3, Al. Korfantego 9 (Katowice Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 350 14 50/(+48) 601 54 53 67, www.joka.com.pl.

Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.

12 Katowice In Your Pocket

GUARDED PARKING QL‑4, ul. Sikorskiego 20, tel. (+48) 660 78 85 51.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT An extremely well developed system of trams and buses operated by the wonderfully named KZK GOP provide a simple and fast way of getting around Katowice and its surrounding towns. The tickets for the network are valid for both buses and trams. A three-zone system is used, of which Katowice is in zone-one and Chorzów in zone-two.

Accordingly, a one-zone ticket is required for the former and a two-zone ticket for travelling between the two. A onezone ticket costs 3.20zł and now also serves as a 15min ticket allowing you to swap forms of transport (bus to tram and onto a different tram for instance) within that time period.

A two-zone ticket costs 3.80zł and also serves as a 30min ticket. There is also a three-zone/one-hour ticket available for iyp.me/katowice

Arrival & Transport 4.80zł. A 18zł 24hr ticket allows travel within all three zones, though it’s hard to imagine getting your money’s worth out of this without spending the whole day on the tram. Okay, we admit, there’s not much reason to get off.

Almost all travel within Katowice and Chorzów can be accomplished using trams, most of which run through the stop at the Rynek. Tram numbers 6, 11 and 19 run between the Rynek and Chorzów via the Silesia Park and is the most useful tram for getting there and back. Tickets can be bought from any kiosk, or from bright yellow machines found at many tram stops around the city. Make sure you validate your ticket when entering the tram or bus.

The penalty for riding without a validated ticket is 90zł (plus the price of the ticket) on the spot. (The normal price of the fine if you don’t pay on the spot is 160zł + price of ticket.)

KATOWICE PUBLIC TRANSPORT COMPANY Qtel. (+48) 32 743 84 46, www.kzkgop.com.pl.

TAXIS Taxis are more honest than they were once were in Poland but it still pays to be on your guard especially when getting into a taxi at the main train station or airport. Make sure you choose a clearly marked taxi with a phone number displayed as well as a sticker showing its prices which you should find in the window. Check the price with the driver before setting off and make sure he turns his meter on.

Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt for your journey. Most firms will charge you 7zł to get in and then a further 3zł per kilometre when travelling in the city.

Travelling outside of city limits and at night is likely to cost up to 50% more than normal.

AIRPORT TAXI SERVICE Qtel. (+48) 784 84 68 66, www.taxipyrzowice.pl.

CITY TAXI Qtel. (+48) 32 203 77 77, www.citytaxi.katowice.pl.

ECHO TAXI Qtel. (+48) 32 201 42 00, www.echotaxi.com.pl.

TAXI TRANSFER KATOWICE Qtel. (+48) 888 42 68 88, www.taxi-transfer.pl/en.

ENGLISH SERVICE TAXI This is a totally new standard of taxi service in Katowice. All of their experienced drivers are fluent in English and all of the taxis in their fleet are Audis and Mercedes.

Of course each car also comes equipped with airconditioning, wi-fi and on board credit card terminals (Visa, Mastercard, American Express). Whether you are going to and from the airport or travelling to a meeting across town, your comfort and ease of travel is always paramount. So forget about being overcharged by a shady driver barking demands in languages you can’t understand. This is a taxi you can truly trust.Qtel. (+48) 607 61 51 21, www.etaxi.katowice.pl.

-taxi

your english service taxi

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USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS e-podroznik.pl Travelling around Poland is becoming easier for visitors to the country, much easier than what we had to experience 10-20 years ago, for sure! With a host of sites and services available to ease your travels woes, one of the best is e-podroznik (e-traveller). This is your one stop shop for planning all major cross-country travel in Poland whether it be by bus or train. You can search timetables and buy tickets online by visiting their site en.e-podroznik.pl or download their app to plan, search and buy tickets.

Jakdojade Despite Katowice’s tram and bus network being incredibly easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the katowice.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app.

The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out and about in town.

Just type in your starting address and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. For those who prefer to feel smarter than their phones, you can also find timetables and network maps at kzkgop.com.pl. iTaxi.pl If you don’t have the patience for public transport in the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in PL: itaxi.pl/eng allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny business. Download it for free from their website.

Uber Alternative taxi service Uber.com (much-loathed by Katowice’s taxi companies) is also now available in Poland, and has in fact chosen Kraków as its European hub. Uber offers one-tap, no-cash-necessary transport via their popular worldwide mobile application.

Those already familiar with Uber will find Katowice well-covered by the service, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

November 2017 - February 2018 13

City Basics HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.

For urgent medical emergencies, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic (p.77), thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

LAW & ORDER In general Katowice is safer than most West European cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Perhaps the biggest danger in Silesia (and PL in general) is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away.

Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.

Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself, just make sure it’s not in front of the law. Those who fail to mind their manners may well be treated to a trip to Katowice’s premier drunk tank (ul. Macieja 10), a chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course).

Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see p.12) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.

14 Katowice In Your Pocket

MARKET VALUES Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of October 24, 2017 based on €1 = 4.24zł McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.10 zł 1.75 zł 29.90 zł 3.29 zł 7.00 zł 2.69 zł 15.50 zł 4.86 zł 3.20 zł

€ 2.38 € 0.41 € 7.05 € 0.78 € 1.65 € 0.63 € 3.66 € 1.15 € 0.75

MONEY Poland has it’s own national currency, called the Polish złoty (sign: zł; code: PLN). As part of Poland’s ascension into the European Union, adoption of the Euro is obligatory, however there is no set date on which the country must switch to the Euro. At present it seems unlikely that Poland will adopt the Euro before 2019.

Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of kantors in Katowice that won’t rip you off, see page 77.

Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destination, prices in Poland and especially Kraków have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema costs 10-30zł, while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.

Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket, though? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, they are essential if you intend to pay in cash, so hang on to your change - you’ll need it.

Although well behind in terms of service and properly stocking the register before opening for business, Poland is ahead of the curve when it comes to cashless iyp.me/katowice

City Basics transactions. Credit or debit can be used just about anywhere (except for obwarzanki vendors and outdoor markets). Those making purchases with a credit card whose base currency isn’t Polish złoty, should beware however (and unless you’re Polish, this probably means you). If you are asked by a merchant, wait staff or on the card reader itself whether you want to be charged in your home currency or PLN, always choose złoty. Why? Because the companies that process credit card transactions typically tack on fees for converting the money, and then do so at a lousy exchange rate.

Depending on the size and number of your purchases while in Poland, the cost can really add up. Visitors should be vigilant and monitor receipts when paying with a credit card - should you be charged in your card’s original currency, don’t be afraid to insist on having your purchase refunded and charged again in złoty.

RELIGION According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. Native son Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm for the Church a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time, and the droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Katowice’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect.

WATER Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the quality of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the water that is delivered from your tap. We therefore recommend that you use bottled water which is widely available and inexpensive. The best known bottled local brands are Żywiec, Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Nałęczowianka. In restaurants many tourists are surprised to find a glass of water is not compulsory, and ordering some typically results in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet your whistle. Beer is often a better bet since it’s cheaper and arrives in larger quantities, but if you’re set on having water it’s best to learn the difference between gazowana (carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water). iyp.me/polandblog

LANGUAGE SMARTS Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten' the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding.

Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Katowice and may even win you friends and admirers.

On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is...

I’m from England.

Do you speak English?

I don’t speak Polish.

I don’t understand.

Two beers, please.

Cheers!

Where are the toilets?

You are beautiful.

I love you.

Please take me home.

Call me!

Mam na imię...

Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku?

Nie mówię po polsku.

Nie rozumiem.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Na zdrowie!

Gdzie są toalety?

Jesteś piękna.

Kocham cię.

Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

November 2017 - February 2018 15

What’s On

The acoustics in NOSPR will astound you!

EVENTS BY DATE 02.11 - 07.11 » ALL SOULS’ DAY: THE JAZZ SERIES

While generally, All Souls’ Day is a sombre affair dedicated to honouring the lives of those who have come and gone before us; this day is very much alive when it comes to the sphere of music. This year, artists like Trombone Shorty (one of the most popular American multi-talents in the worlds of hip hop, jazz, blues, pop, R&B, fusion, and soul), Jane Monheit (considered by many as today’s Ella Fitzgerald; labelled by New York Times as “a voice of phenomenal beauty”), as well as Simon Phillips (one of the most famous and well-respected percussionists in the world) will hit the stage in a series of concerts from November 2nd to 7th. Of course, local and Polish artists will also take part, with performances by the High Definition Quartet feat. Igor Boxx, who will perform a unique project titled Dziady / Forefather’s Eve (inspired by and dedicated to this very famous national day of commemoration).

QD‑2, Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, www.nospr. org.pl.

17.11 - 26.11 » GRZEGORZ FITELBERG INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION FOR CONDUCTORS

In case you were ever considering a career as an orchestra conductor, the 10th annual Grzegorz Fitelberg 16 Katowice In Your Pocket

International Competition for Conductors will show you that the competition is fierce, and the struggle is real. Ranked third amongst the most prestigious music competitions in Poland, it’s no easy feat to even be considered: this year, over 270 young conductors from all over the world entered into the concert—with a total of 50 who made the cut. 21 countries are represented, with the most hailing from Asia (especially China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and Macau). At stake are over 82,000 euros and a heck of a lot of recognition.QA‑3, Silesian Philharmonic, ul. Sokolska 2, tel. (+48) 32 351 17 13, www.fitelbergcompetition.com/en/news/88.

18.11 » DEPARTURES FESTIVAL

What can a festival of “departures” entail? Presenting a total of 10 concerts across two stages, this music festival sets out to give a stage to lesser-known, younger, new and emerging artists—in other words, those whose musical careers are in the process of “taking off.” But, as far as the lineup is concerned, there won’t be a lack of more established and charismatic artists who are known for their clear style or are characterized by their heavy hitting sound. Check out the comprehensive lineup of new fresh talents being featured at the festival online.QD‑1, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, Tickets 70-99zł available at www.ticketpro.pl, www. spodekkatowice.pl/en. iyp.me/katowice

What’s On 21.11 » VIDEO GAMES LIVE

Video Games Live is a multimedia concert experience featuring music and video clips from the most popular video games of all time. What’s unique about this event is that while gamers are sure to appreciate it in their own right, non-gamers and all members of the family will find something to love—whether it’s the accompanying special effects, exclusive video footage, or special interactive segments focused on audience participation. By bringing new generations of music lovers into the symphonic orchestral setting, and crossing the art of gaming into the art of classical music, this event may actually be able to do the unthinkable: get kids and teenagers to go (willingly) to the orchestra.

QD‑2, Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 60150zł available at nospr.bilety24.pl, www.nospr.org. pl.

24.11 - 23.12 » CHRISTMAS FAIR

It might be cold, but the Christmas fair makes braving the chill worth it. Like many other Christmas Fairs in Poland, the fair will feature an ice skating rink as well as stalls selling traditional ceramics, handmade toys, wreaths, candles, souvenirs, handicrafts, jewellery, regional sweets, snacks, heart foods and regional products (bigos, pancakes, ham, smoked, cheese, etc.). Christmas pastries like gingerbread, cupcakes, fruitcakes, shortbread, and tree cakes are always a treat; and the mulled wine, hot beer, honey beer, liqueurs and other spirits will keep you warm and festive.QC‑3/4, Rynek.

26.11 » VEG FESTIVAL

The Veg Festival (otherwise known as Wege Festiwal) is a series of vegetarian and vegan food fairs that pop up all over Poland throughout the year. The festival is touching down in Katowice twice this year—once, on September 17th for its 4th edition; and it returns for seconds on November 26th for its 5th edition. Expect an abundance of falafel, hummus, veggie burgers, as well as homemade soups, cakes, cookies, desserts, and international dishes. On top of all things food and spice, the festival brings with it a selection of ethical and ecofriendly fashion items, cruelty-free cosmetics, books and children’s products.QO‑4, Wilson Shaft Gallery, ul.

Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, Admission free.

02.12 » ILLUSION

Illusion is undoubtedly one of the most important rock bands in the country, dating back to 1992. Their first concert was in Gdansk, with members Tomasz Lipnicki, Jerzy Rutkowski and Paweł Herbasch. That same year Jarosław Śmigiel joined the group and they have had the same band line up ever since! To celebrate their 25th anniversary they will be touring nine cities.QI‑2, Mega Club, ul. Żelazna 15, Tickets 55-75zł available at Biletomat, Bilety24, Ebilet, Eventim, Tickepro, Sklep Muzyczny All, MegaClub. iyp.me/polandblog

SILESIAN MUSEUM 09.10 - 11.03 » IT STARTED WITH A GRAIN: THE HISTORY OF CULTIVATED PLANTS

Who says plants can’t be heroes, the main characters in a story? In the case of humanity and our existence on this planet—we owe quite a bit to them. Often overlooked and taken for granted as nothing other than mere decoration somewhere in the background of our daily diet, outdoor activities and travel from Point A to Point B, and even in the production of machinery—plants, trees, and the greenery that surround us make up an integral part of the way we sustain ourselves on this planet. This exhibit aims to remind us of this fact; and gives these little living organisms their own well-deserved five minutes of fame.QC‑3, Silesian Museum, Al. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, Admission 12/7zł for all exhibits, 9/5zł for temporary exhibits only, 6/4zł for permanent exhibits only. Sat free for permanent exhibits., www. muzeumslaskie.pl.

November 2017 - February 2018 17

What’s On 07.12 » HÖGNI

NOSPR invites to the concerts season 2017/2018

Icelandic musical treasure Högni will be bringing his beautiful talents to three Polish cities this year, Poznań being one of them. In 2008, he and his indie rock band were crowned the “best debut artist” and “best singersongwriter” titles at the 2008 Icelandic Music Awards— which are basically the Icelandic version of the Grammys. In 2009, their second album won the “album of the year” title.

To call Högni a musical prodigy would be to do the years he spent honing his craft a disservice—after mastering the violin in his younger years, he taught himself to play on the guitar and then moved on to the piano, focusing on harmonies and improvisations in jazz and also training his voice in years of choir practice—all this before the age of 21. In other words, go see him.

Venue: Kinoteatr Rialto, Św. Jana 24QTickets 49zł available at biletomat.pl.

14.12 19:00 » MOSCOW CITY BALLET - SWAN LAKE

This timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes, music, and fantastic story that has been choreographed so flawlessly, needs no introduction.

It is with dexterity and perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring Peter Tchaikovsky’s fantasy “Swan Lake” back to life once more. Briefly, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans and live on a lake of tears - a curse that can only be broken by a prince’s love. But even if you know the story, the world class performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to attend a second time.QC‑6, Katowice Miasto Ogrodów, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, Tickets 125-165zł available at www. makroconcert.com/pl.

EXHIBITIONS 19.10 - 04.02 » ZBIGNIEW PODSIADŁO: PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer (and not only) Zbigniew Podsiadło will have some of his works on display from October 19th, 2017, through to February 4th, 2018.

Podsiadło is known for capturing striking landscapes, documentary photographs, and his ability to add a social layer to what is captured in the frame—all with a sublime aesthetic quality characteristic to his style.QC‑6, Katowice Miasto Ogrodów, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, www.miasto-ogrodow.eu.

20.10 - 19.11 » INTERVENTIONS: SPACE, TIME, MEMORY

In October 2016, three artists participated in an artistin-residence program. The results are presented in this exhibition, which is focused on showcasing three types of art interventions—those dealing with space, time, and memory. In their works, the three artists—which come from France, Poland, and Germany—experiment with different forms of confronting the concept of Silesia within cultural, historical, sociological, and time-space

18 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

What’s On contexts. The topic itself is at once banal, simple, and yet tricky and complex to tackle, as evidenced by the various ways in which the artists chose to communicate their interpretations of the concept.QC‑3, Silesian Museum, Al. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, Admission 12/7zł for all exhibits, 9/5zł for temporary exhibits only, 6/4zł for permanent exhibits only. Sat free for permanent exhibits., www.muzeumslaskie.pl.

29.10 - 04.01 » CHILDHOOD YEARS OF OUR ANCESTORS

Katowice’s antique Fotoplastikon (known as a ‘Kaiserpanorama’ in English) presents visitors with the cutting edge 3D technology of the 19th century - rotating stereoscopic images viewed through a pair of lenses to create a 3D effect. The series of images in this exhibit is united around the theme of a child’s world, which is depicted in these late 19th century images as one of wonder, idealism, lightheartedness and never-ending fun and adventure.QC‑3, Silesian Museum - The Grand Hotel, Al. W. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, Admission 6/4zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon.

24.05 - 31.05 » TRACKING TOMEK

Who lives in teepees? Can dreams be reality? The answers are at the Silesian Museum, at the historic carpentry shop to be exact, where you discover the stories of Alfred Szklarski.

Inspired by Tomek Wilmowski, the main character in the books, you can discover the world through challenges and your senses. All you need to track where Tomek disappeared is your backpack, family and a visit to the world described by Szklarski. Kids, ages 4-12, can discover distant cultures and learn to work together.QL‑3, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Tickets 14/9zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl.

08.09 - 30.11 » STEREOVISION300000

If eyes are the windows to one’s soul, who says photographs can’t be windows into another dimension? Photographer Marek Saenderski employs special 3D techniques that are designed to suck you in from where you’re standing and bring you out on the flipside via his large-format photographs. Experimenting with 3D photography and printing techniques for nearly 30 years now, Saenderski has managed to develop a series of algorithms, known as StereoVision300000, that prepare 3D digital projects for print. Check out his unique photographs, which range in subject matter from surrealist painting-inspired compositions, to 3D stereoscopic collages of pictures of plants, rocks, and body parts; as well as landscape photos from countries like Greenland, Iceland, Egypt, and Jordan.

QC‑6, Katowice Miasto Ogrodów, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, www.miasto-ogrodow.eu.

Check out our blog! polandiyp.wordpress.com iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 19

What’s On POLISH INDEPENDENCE DAY 11.11 » POLISH INDEPENDENCE DAY

While other parts of the world celebrate November 11th as ‘Remembrance Day’ (UK, Canada), ‘Armistice Day’ (France, NZ), and ‘Veterans Day’ (USA), for Poles the ending of the Great War was even more significant as it saw Poland finally regaining its independence and returning to the map of Europe after 123 years of being partitioned by Austria, Germany and Russia.

With the signing of the Armistice between the Allies and Germany, famed military hero Józef Piłsudski was appointed as Commander-in-Chief of the Second Republic of Poland on November 11th, 1918. Piłsudski formed a new centralised government and went on to command Polish forces against Russia in the victorious 1920 Battle of Warsaw, a key turning point in the rebirth of the country. In true facepalm fashion, however, Independence Day was constituted as a national holiday in 1937 and celebrated exactly twice before World War II began and Poland found itself occupied again. In the communist era, the date of Independence Day was dubiously moved to July 22nd to honour the day the PKWN Manifesto - a document which basically asserted communist authority over Poland - was issued in 1944. After communism fell in 1989, the holiday was restored to its original November 11th date.

If you’re in Poland on this day you’ll find that although a national bank holiday, most restaurants, bars and even shops will still be open. Independence Day in Katowice is a pretty big deal, and there is no shortage of celebration, spectacular shows, and of course, opportunities to party it up and have a good time.

10:00 AM Official commencement of the day’s celebration, in front of the Cathedral of Christ the King (Plebiscytowa 49A) 10:30 AM Holy mass in honour of the homeland.

Afterwards, everyone is welcome to gather and walk over to the Józef Piłsudski monument (Plac Chrobrego), where at: 12:30 PM Ceremonial processions take place, during which the national hymn is performed, the Polish flag is raised to full-mast, wreaths are adorned upon the Piłsudski monument and official speeches are made.

After this point, at approximately 1:00 PM The official (and visually spectacular) cavalcade will commence, featuring men in uniform, majorettes, and an orchestra. The cavalcade will move along ul. Jagiellońska.

Stay tuned and keep an eye out for other related events later in the day.

20 Katowice In Your Pocket

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What’s On 24.05 - 31.05 » SACRED ART OF SILESIA

The exhibit presents treasures from Silesian culture in the form of sculptures and paintings from the Gothic period and modern times. Wartime changed the fate of the collection, where some of it was dispersed. The saved pieces returned to the Silesian Museum in 1996. More than 120 objects are on display in two groups: late Gothic to Renaissance-Baroque and from the 14th-18th century.

The main part of the exhibit symbolizes a sanctuary and encompasses various cultural influences. The modern art section includes European influences like reformation, humanism and counter reformation. Multimedia presentations complete the exhibit by presenting wall art and recent discoveries from Upper Silesia.QL‑3, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, www.muzeumslaskie.pl.

21.10 - 30.04 » HOPE MAKES EVERYTHING POSSIBLE: THE PROTESTANT REFORMATION AND ITS CULTURAL HERITAGE IN SILESIA

2017 marks the 500th anniversary of the Protestant Reformation in Europe, so lots of related exhibits are popping up all over Poland. This is one such exhibit focusing on the Evengelical-Augsburg (Lutheran) church, which aims to provoke reflection concerning current Evangelical ties and beliefs in Silesia. The Reformation brought about large-scale systemic change: it united religion with previously separate spheres such as education; it greatly affected the popularisation of the print medium, and it directly influenced the popular landscapes of music and architecture. This exhibition provides a multi-faceted inquiry on the topic of religion as a belief system in and of itself.QC‑3, Silesian Museum, Al. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, Admission 12/7zł for all exhibits, 9/5zł for temporary exhibits only, 6/4zł for permanent exhibits only. Sat free for permanent exhibits., www. muzeumslaskie.pl.

04.11 - 01.04 » PIVOT: THE BEGINNINGS OF NEO-AVANT-GARDE IN UPPER SILESIA

With 2017 marking the centennial of the avant-garde movement in Poland, this exhibit adds the Silesian context in presenting the artistic and creative scenes throughout the 20th century. In the 1940s/50s, the Upper Silesian area was a hub of arts and culture. It was here that many artists, creatives, and their supporters frequently met, created, co-created, pulled inspiration from their surroundings and each other, and constantly worked on developing their individual skills and honing their craft. The exhibit will present paintings and photographs from numerous artists and photographic circles that were influential during this time, as well as the works of other artists from later on in the 20th century who also pulled inspiration from those that had laid out the groundwork before them.QC‑3, Silesian Museum, Al. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, Admission 12/7zł for all exhibits, 9/5zł for temporary exhibits only, 6/4zł for permanent exhibits only. Sat free for permanent exhibits., www.muzeumslaskie.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 21

Cafés

Good things come from Synergia (synergy), quite literally!

CAFE KATTOWITZ A slice of strudel most divine accompanied our cappuccinos just fine as the porcelain and the silver softly clattered. And so we sat and sipped and occasionally dipped our forks into the flaky pastry pondering – how had we been transported to Vienna so suddenly? The dark woods and high ceilings of this fin-de-siecle cafe were filled with the sputtering sounds of a perfectly polished espresso contraption. We were momentarily pulled from the dream as our waitress implored us to dig deeper into their exquisite menus. All manner of cake and sweets awaited. But as our steam train did approach we saw our waitress’s reproach as we alighted yet to return, ever after.

QC‑4, ul. Św. Jana 7, tel. (+48) 32 321 85 08. Open 10:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. T­G­S­W

KAWIARNIA WAWELSKA On what has developed into Katowice’s coffee and cakes corridor, this newly redesigned cafe stands out as a beacon of warmth and old school charm. Offering a wide range of bio coffee drinks and tantalising ice cream concoctions you can enjoy your sweet treats in the comfort of their creme colored interiors. Recently they added vegetable smoothies and sandwiches to their offer which adds some nice healthy balance to all of the sugar and spice and everything nice. When night falls this cafe bares its inner bar and the drinks start flowing like the Vistula past the Wawel.QB‑3, ul. Wawelska 1, tel. (+48) 514 94 36 99. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. T­G­S­W

NEW COFFEE WAYS Mariacka street may be known as the place full of bars that you can find cheap snacks, herring and beer or vodka shots to wash it all down with, however, if you wander to the far end, where the church is, this part is more relaxed, down to earth and now a bit nicer that its opposite side. This is in part thanks to new places springing up, just like Coffee Ways (the only cafe on Mariacka!) that set the tone. Classy, without being snobbish, this cafe is more than just a place to enjoy a tea/coffee and cake, it’s a place to spend time, talk and interact, and it all feels just like being at home!

It’s also a place where you can find all day breakfast (still difficult to find in Poland)! I’m sold!QE‑4, ul. Mariacka 37, tel. (+48) 575 79 97 72, www.coffee-ways.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00. T­6­U­G­S­W

KOFEINA CORNER Handily located near the main entrance to Katowice train station, Kofeina Corner is, well, literally on a street corner of 3 Maja and Plac Szewczyka. The interior sums up Katowice with its revamped industrial look, which is enticing on its own, but what’s this? An all day breakfast option?! Kofeina Corner offers precisely that with great creamy scrambled egg with bacon, or baguette with smoked salmon, fried egg, capers and salad! Throw in a strawberry and ginger smoothie all for just 12zł. With high quality grub, Kofeina offers a big range of meat feasts (vegetarian option also available) and all at reasonable prices right in the city centre.QB‑3, Plac Szewczyka 1, tel. (+48) 509 34 12 65. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. T­6 ­ U­G ­S ­W

22 Katowice In Your Pocket

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Cafés MISS CUPCAKE For a spell we thought Katowice might actually miss out on the latest confectionery craze to conquer Poland. I speak of the current cupped cake invasion in all its tiny frosted fury. This cozy cafe boasts a total of 30 flavours and counting with seasonal, holiday and themed cakes making timely appearances plus they now offer bagels for those searching for more savoury fare. Grab a coffee while you munch or take a coupla cakes for lunch. If you’re tooth is sweet then shuffle them feet over to this Lil’ Miss for a quick fix of American confectionery bliss.

QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 10, tel. (+48) 531 98 40 80, www. misscupcake.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. T­G­S­W MONOPOL Inside the hotel of the same name the Monopol’s in-house café bar offers decent coffee and plenty of class with an interior that recalls Katowice’s golden age. Here it’s all fresh cut flowers, marble surfaces and sepia images of the city in its industrial heyday. Floor-to-ceiling windows encourage hurrying passersby to gaze in with envy.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. 6­U­G­W MOODRO BISTRO & CAFE The Silesian Museum has a lot to offer both tourists and locals alike and that includes its gastronomic offers. If you make the entire journey through the subterranean exhibits and ante-chambers of the Museum, you’ll be delighted to resurface right next to this bright bistro and cafe. You’ll no doubt run into locals already sipping lattes and nibbling light lunches. They may have skipped the museum and headed straight to grab one of the window front tables with a panoramic view of downtown Katowice. Make sure to ask about their breakfast special if you’re an early riser.QK‑3, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1 (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 92 99, www.moodro.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. T­6­U­G­S­W

pastries at the counter, each of which are lovingly spruced up. The menu is seasonal and varies dependent on supply of produce, however, regardless of ingredients, an effort is made to have at least 3-6 different varieties of mousses, including Belgian chocolate and Mango-Maracuya. Choose the breakfast deal of a ‘BąbeLove gofr’ (bubble waffle) with choice of toppings including honey and ricotta, seasonal flavours with ice-creams, cream, fruits and different toppings all accompanied with a tea or coffee.QC‑3, ul. Moniuszki 3, tel. (+48) 572 81 55 33, www.sweetsilesia.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. T­6­G­S­W SYNERGIA. DOBRE MIEJSCE The slow coffee movement rolls its way into Silesia and lands in one of the most stylish cafes this town has ever seen. You know they mean business when the first thing you see when you walk in is an array of high and low-tech new school coffee gadgets in rustic wooden crates. The aroma of fresh coffee will lure you further into the elegant environs. Sink into a couch and choose from Chemex, Drip, Aeropress, Syphon or Espresso press with your choice of “single country of origin” bean. Grab a brownie, pastry, quiche, sandwich or even order one of their tempting lunch specials (of course vegan and gluten free options available). You lucky devils are now spoilt for choice with Synergia opening a 2nd cafe (same name) on ul. Opolska 18.QA‑4, ul. Andrzeja 29/2, tel. (+48) 502 93 02 53.

Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

T­6­G­S­W

ŚLĄSKA PRAŻALNIA KAWY CAFE AMOR This classy cafe has a lot to offer for both casual drip-sippers and arabica aficionados alike. They roast their own coffee beans on site and serve up over a dozen unique coffee beverages made with their very own freshly roasted coffee blends. If this isn’t enough they also offer alternative coffee brewing methods for you to try. If coffee isn’t your thing not to worry as they have an extensive list of pressed juices, loose leaf teas plus a distinguished list of fine liquors and wines. Grab a cake, salad or sandwich to go with your beverage of choice then sit back and enjoy this charming Cafe.QB‑5, Pl. Miarki 1, tel. (+48) 792 41 14 94, www. cafeamor.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. T­G­S­W SWEET HOME SILESIA Inspired by French delicatessens, Sweet Home Silesia brings a little romantic image of Parisian pâtisserie to the heart of Katowice. Located just off the rynek on Moniuszki 3, you enter a pleasant cafe and find a delightful choice of iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 23

Restaurants

Sztolnia: Post-Industrial chic interior mixed with fine dining. Katowice summed up in one (p.27).

Silesia is known to many as a sprawling post-industrial metropolis that is more akin to a culinary wasteland than a growing centre of world-class cuisine for cunning connoisseurs. The last few years have brought drastic changes to the once dreary dining scene and the service industry can now join the esteemed ranks of the coal and steel industries in the area. Many culinary trends have taken hold and ethnic cuisine of all shapes and sizes are vying for your attention and appealing to your appetite. Don’t overlook the local fare either as there is a veritable renaissance happening in Silesian cuisine as well as a plethora of Polish places. The prices we list here in each handpicked recommendation reflect the cheapest and most precious main dishes on the menu. Tipping at least 10% for table service is customary, though it may not always be deserved. Smacznego!

FINE DINING Exclusive restaurants in Katowice come in a range of forms, from serving a mix of interntional and local cuisine, with varied interior decors and food on offer; all a treat to test out. Leading the way in Kato’s gastronomical revolution, we have a few contenders: If it’s post-industrial decor and good meat you’re after, check out Sztolnia (p.27). If you like to eat high up and closer to the sun, try Restauracja Sunlight (p.27) with its seasonal menu. Tatiana (p.34) just up from the Rynek serves a mix of European and Slavic dishes in a very pleasant and elegant setting.

INTERNATIONAL The gastro revolution is not limited to traditional or local cuisine, as with any destination, choice is the key, and we certainly have that with a host of international eateries in 24 Katowice In Your Pocket

Kato. If you’re searching for Indian food ranging from mild to spicy, try out Buddha (p.28)! New kid on block Novo (p.36) has a rather impressive looking stone baked oven which churns out all your favourite delights with authentic taste. Hana Sushi (p.37) offers, well, no prizes for guessing what, but the location in a former brick building once home to a swimming pool looks great and the food on offer is as you’d expect, really good.

FAST CASUAL If it’s something relatively quick you want and at decent prices without scimping back on quality, Kato has a lot to offer in this regard, and some of our noted adventures have highglighted the following: making the leap from food truck to having a real home, Nasze Bao (p.26) serves up some great Asian street food. Zdrowa Krowa (p.26) is hot on the heels of the good burger trend in Poland and Złoty Osioł (p.28) provides a good vegetarian option. If you’re craving some good seafood, specifically swimming crustaceans, Shrimp House (p.39) finally offers up good quality shrimp, which has been lacking in Silesia until now!

FAMILY DINING Family options too are easily found in Kato, serving food from more adventurous meals for adults and classics for kids. First to mention following its recent renovation is Patio (p.32), which does just that with various meats dishes, pizzas, pastas etc. Steakhouse Da Da (p.34) is straight to the point, offering fine steak cuts from around the world, all served by friendly staff. For an authentic Polish feel, Chata z Zalipia (p.40) serves up traditional Polish food in a design reminiscent of a cottage interior, one for all to enjoy. iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

I Fireplace

o Year-Round Garden

AMERICAN CITY ROCK If you crossed Hard Rock Cafe with a classic American diner in a Polish laboratory, you might end with something like City Rock, where motorbikes, guitars, 50s pinups, Elvis and even a full-sized Formula 1 car are attached to the creamy chocolate colored walls. The pre-pubescent boy in you will love it and that’s before the team of local beauties appears to present you with the easy English menu of Tex-Mex, fried food, ice cream sundaes, milkshakes, pasta, wood-oven pizza, burgers and obligatory Polish dishes - choose from lame-named items like ‘Easy Chick’ and ‘Grinch Spaghetti,’ or why not try to push your luck and ask the Miss Polska serving you for a ‘Texas Mama’. Incredibly popular and kind of great for all the wrong reasons.QB‑1, ul. Chorzowska 9B, tel. (+48) 32 201 05 05, www.cityrock.pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 22:00. (17-60zł). T­U­G­S­W WALL STREET COCKTAIL BAR & TAPAS While this is primarily a cocktail bar by night, their gastronomic offer is nothing to shake a stick at either. They offer a full menu of American classics highlighted by juicy steaks fit for Gordon Gecco himself. When the night begins to beckon order up a lighter snack to go with one of their signature swanky cocktails. On the weekends head into the Brooklyn Loft to sprawl out or to shake your money maker for all it’s worth. While this place isn’t all about business, make sure to dress to impress or your stock could quickly crash. Lunches served Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00.QD‑4, ul.

Mariacka 4/6, tel. (+48) 532 36 30 01. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (19-58zł). U­G­ S­W

VEGAN & VEGETARIAN FOOD COFFEE SPECIALTY

Henryka Sienkiewicza Str. No 27 40-031 Katowice (032) 724 18 36 fb/botanikato

Stanisława 1, 40-014 Katowice tel. 511 433 663 www.hurrycurry.pl Curries from all over the world

ASIAN HURRY CURRY Bringing some heat to the street and some spice to Katovice, this hot spot is turning heads and filling stomachs.

Started by a couple of travellers with the simple idea of offering a selection of curries from all over the world served up quick and sold for cheap. The results are utterly delicious and borderline revolutionary for the city’s budding ethnic restaurant scene. With a limited but diverse menu, you’ll iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 25

Restaurants BURGERS

COOLER CLUB & FOOD Cooler club on Mariacka street is where you can go for food during the day, just make sure not to turn up too early expecting to dance your socks off as it also functions as a club on Fri & Sat 21:00-05:00. Open daily from 13:00, Cooler serves up some mean food with a range of burgers, grilled meats, steaks, soups, vegetarian dishes, pasta dishes, and even Polish classics like pierogi, all the way through to dessert.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 20/1, tel. (+48) 508 24 91 98, www. coolerclub.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (15-65zł). P­T­6­G­S­W MAD MICK The requisite ‘Hipster Burger Bar and Bistro’ has firmly planted its flag in Silesian soil. Now Katowice has its own jumping joint to boast about. Mad Mick serve up thick slabs of juicy steaks, mouth watering burgers and tortillas day and night (they also deliver!). With a vast array of Czech microbrews to chase down your chow of choice, settle into a comfy seat before you meet your meat. Besides the full menu of carnivorous treats, Mick also offers up salads, snacks, baguettes and sandwiches.QD‑4, ul. Warszawska 13, tel. (+48) 535 46 68 66, www.madmick.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

(12-44zł). V­G­S­W ZDROWA KROWA Literally translated as “healthy cow” this Gliwice burger bistro is now in Katowice. Their mission seems to be to re-brand burgers as a legit healthy option touting the quality of their locally sourced ingredients and abundance of veggies tossed between their freshly baked buns. With a truly expansive menu of over a dozen different specialty beef burgers and a handful of chicken, shrimp, and veggie/vegan options, choosing the right sandwich is a daunting task. If you’re really looking to eat light, order one of their colourful and flavourful salads. QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 33, tel. (+48) 730 10 15 20, www.zdrowakrowa.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (20-66zł). T­6­U­V­ G­S­W 26 Katowice In Your Pocket

find something new just for you. The design is cosy yet cool and the service is quick so even if you’re in a hurry you can make time for their curry. Top marks all around. Also at at ul. Panewnicka 25A.QD‑4, ul. Św. Stanisława 1, tel. (+48) 511 43 36 63, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (16-33zł). 6­G­S­ W NASZE BAO We love it when our favourite food trucks go all brick and mortar. This is the case with Kato’s newest Asian fast food sensation. After just one bite of their savoury and spicy calamari bun (aka bao for those in the know) we were hooked. While they certainly upgraded their digs, this basement nook isn’t exactly a full blown restaurant. The open kitchen is bigger than the 3-4 improvised tables and stools at the bar. But since the menu still consists of mostly Asian street food, the buns are built for the road. But when the weather turns we will happily huddle in the corner and devour another one of their fluffy boa, or perhaps scarf down a bowl of Pho Bo. If you want to stick to the ole food truck option, Nasze Bao also have a garden (with truck!) located on ul. Panewnicka 77, which is soon to turn into another branch!QC‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 600 37 76 05, www.naszebao.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (15-25zł). 6­G­S­W

BREAKFAST PETIT We can’t remember the last time we got so excited about a breakfast place. Immediately upon entry the warm and welcoming interiors and delicious aromas wafting from the kitchen get the juices flowing. The menu delights and intrigues variations of eggs and omelettes all vying for your attention. But once our eyes landed on the English muffin with egg, bacon and hollandaise sauce, the search was over. Creamy-crunchy-blissful-breakfast-ecstasy is all we can say. If the food wasn’t enough, their gourmet coffee drinks and exclusive teas are equally enticing. Breakfast is served till 14:00, after which, they serve only coffee/tea and cakes! (opening hours subject to change so check their FB page). All of their pastries and baked goods (vegan and gluten free options also) are available for take away. Petit is quite simply a small slice of perfect.QD‑3, ul. Wojewódzka 21, tel. (+48) 515 99 90 70. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (7-20zł). T­6­G­S­W

CZECH HOSPODA History and geography have preordained close ties between Silesia and the Czech Republic. While ‘close’ doesn’t always mean friendly, this hopping Hospoda could downright double as the Czech Embassy for all the love it shows to their southern neighbours. Of course the first test of a true Czech pub is its beer selection. Hospoda passes with flying colours with delicious Bohemian brews like Cerna Hora, Kozel Dark, Vit and Pilsner on tap plus at least 30 iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants other bottles on deck (Gambrinus, Radegast, Budvar and a boatload more). If you’re wondering about the grub, czech out their classic fried cheese, garlic soup and goulash with dumplings. If you’ve never been to Prague, just throw on a Walkman with some Jaromir Nohavica, curl up in a corner with a dark Kozel or two and prepare to be telePortered.

QJ‑3, ul. Gliwicka 6/1 (entrance from ul. Sobieskiego), tel. (+48) 793 89 65 30, www.hospoda.pl. Open 14:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. (13-15zł). X­S­W

FRENCH C’EST SI BON Certainly one of Katowice’s finer restaurants, the service may not be as cheerful as the interior full of lavender plants, lilac table clothes, dried flowers, candleholders and sun icons, but the food is top-notch, as testified by the long list of companies C’est Si Bon does regular catering for. The menu is in Polish, French and English, and still full of rich, delicious dishes like the hearty ‘Provencal seafood soup’. Bon Apetite!QB‑5, ul. Ligonia 4, tel. (+48) 32 781 68 48, www.cestsibon.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (22-66zł). 6­U­G­S­W

FUSION RESTAURACJA SUNLIGHT Located on the ground floor of the Angelo Hotel, it’s worth getting a room upstairs just for convenient access to this exquisite restaurant. A perfect cure for seasonal Silesian depression, Sunlight justifies its slightly hokey name with a modern, spirit-lifting interior of warm colours and wall to floor length windows. No effort is spared with the food, including regularly reinvented seasonal menus in addition to the regular card full of locally-inspired fusion dishes. The menu even includes accompanying wine recommendations. Two or three course business lunches are served in the adjacent Jazz Bar (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00) for 38 or 45zł respectively. They also recently opened Steak Corner by Jazz Bar where you can order mouth watering steaks and burgers.QB‑2, ul. Sokolska 24 (angelo by Vienna House Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 783 81 56, www. viennahouse.com. Open 17:00 - 22:00. (25-79zł). T­U­ G­W

Cooler Club & Food ul. Mariacka 20/1 Katowice www.coolerclub.pl klub@coolerclub.pl fbcoolerfood /coolerclub/

Godziny otwarcia: FOOD Tue-Thu 13:00 - 23:00 CLUB Fri-Sat 21:00 - 5:00

SZTOLNIA. CHLEB. MIĘSO. WINO Someone forgot to tell Poland that restaurants near Malls are supposed to be bland, corporate run, flair-wearing affairs only. Sztolnia not only blows that notion out of the water, but it’s one of the best restaurants in town. One look at their open concept industrial-yet-rustic, dining room and you’ll begin to see why. After a very recent renovation, the dining area has been expanded, and the restaurant now has a confectionery section, winery, and banquet hall all held in a huge 1000m2 space! Once you’ve settled and had a look at the laid back and eclectic menu filled with fusion treats and grilled aged meats, they’ll have won you over. And once you’re served your meal, they’ll have fully sealed the deal. Hand to heart, our perfect Polish beef steak, cooked vegetables covered iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 27

Restaurants VEGETARIAN

with garlic and dill butter, demi-glace sauce with green pepper was impeccable. They have a great daily breakfast promo - your choice of coffee or tea for 1 zł with any breakfast order between 11:00 -12:00. They also serve a 3-course lunch Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for 33zł. Silesia City Center just got a whole lot closer.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 109 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 506 78 87 75, www.sztolnia.katowice. pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (21-74zł). U­G­S­W

Botanika

GERMAN

BOTANIKA Nestled nicely into the basement and first floor of one of the brownstones (yes Katowice has brownstones!) on one of our favourite streets is this vegetarian and vegan treat. As the name suggests, they are all about cooking up hearty and healthy meals pulled straight from the garden. The specials include, vegan and gluten free meals like: soups, Italian cabbage lecho, Parsley pesto tagliatelle (with vegan parmesan no less) and a spinach and zucchini yellow curry to knock your socks off. They serve up mighty fine coffee too with specially selected beans. The multicoloured meals match the warm woods, climbing vegetation and exposed brick walls of this comfy and friendly bistro and cafe.QC‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 32 724 18 36. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Fri 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (9-25zł). T­6­E­G­S­W ZIELONY MOST Katowice seems to be getting greener by the day, and we’re not just talking about the grass on the International Congress Center. This vegetarian/vegan bistro is the latest gastronomic outpost to offer up a full menu of lunch and dinners without harming a hair on an animal’s head. Seek the specials board which proclaims the presence of all sorts of soups, salads, curries, wraps, cutlets, falafel and even Silesian inspired dishes and an army of gluten and allergy free cakes and desserts. Wash it all down with healthy smoothies, local craft brews or even alcohol free beer!QB‑3, ul.

Słowackiego 12/1, tel. (+48) 533 73 95 95, www. zielonymost.katowice.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. (15-25zł). T­6­G­S­W ZŁOTY OSIOŁ (THE GOLDEN ASS) We often judge a city’s merits on whether or not it has a proper vegetarian restaurant, and in this regard Katowice scores some much-needed points. The cheekily named ‘Golden Ass’ features laid back music, bright psychedlic wall patterns and tablecloths, and fertile murals wherein zodiac characters, Buddha and Grecian urns are able to coexist as peacably as the aging hippies, young activists, punk rockers, and school teachers that make up the clientele. The budget food shows a lot more creative flair than the rest of the local cuisine.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 1, tel. (+48) 32 253 01 13, www.wegebar.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (9-14zł). 6­G­S­W 28 Katowice In Your Pocket

WUNDERBAR A pleasing bar-restaurant kitted out with pots, pans, chiming clocks and all manner of assorted country trumpery. The menu here is pretty much as you expect from a Bavarian themed eatery with a bit of a Polish twist. Try the Krupnik soup with goose stomachs or the half duck baked with apples. If you really mean business then try the Baked Pork Knuckle on for size. Wash it all down with some tried and true German brew - wheat Weihenstephan or Weihenstephan Pils.

QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 2, tel. (+48) 32 781 76 90, www. wunderbar.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (28-69zł). T­G­S­W

GREEK NEW SOUVLAKI BAR Here’s a first for Katowice (it’s becoming a trend in the city, huh?) - a Greek food place! If you’ve ever been to Greece and miss the food (or haven’t, and want to test the food culture), here’s a great place to start, without actually going to the country! It’s not just about the food, it’s the approach - you don’t have to go to the best restaurant to eat good food, and in Greece, a popular option is just to eat some Souvlaki from a street food bar. I’ll be honest, I love this style. Souvlaki Bar is a small eatery, and feels like an Athens quick food bar. The owners live in Athens and very much want to bring this style to Katowice, and why the hell not? It’s awesome. Try horiatiki, tzatziki, and anything with grilled halloumi!QD‑4, ul.

Francuska 2, tel. (+48) 533 33 83 89. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (12-30zł). V­G­S

HEALTHY EATS OKIEM I BRZUCHEM This is perhaps one of the simplest restaurant concepts in the world, but near to impossible to pull off perfectly: Soup. This rustic resto gets about as close as you can to perfection by serving up healthy and hearty bowls of delicious liquid gold.

The daily menu hangs above the self-serve counter: turkeygizzard-veggie-bullion, wild mushroom-red bean-mini-shell stew and red pepper-roasted pumpkin-chili tomato-garlic, plus three other equally intriguing options awaited us. Always 3 veggie and 3 meat options. We were overjoyed that they offer a three-mini bowl tasting option so we could try more.

Without exaggeration, each soup was better than the next and we savoured every spoonful. Soup for the soul.QB‑5, ul.

Kościuszki 18, tel. (+48) 695 73 87 22. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (13-22zł). T­6­G­o­S­W iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants HUNGARIAN ZAKLĘTY CZARDASZ Certainly one of Katowice’s finest and most unheralded restaurants, this aromatic Hungarian effort serves excellent ethnic cuisine in elegant surroundings with wicker lampshades, latticework and vines. The enticing menu offers a dozen ways to enjoy their delicious goulash (trust us, you’ll be licking the cutlery), plus stuffed peppers, potato pancakes, pork loin, fish and more - all complemented ideally by Hungarian wines and tokajs from their adjoining shop. Portions are positively huge, with food practically spilling over the edges of the plate, and it’s worth noting that you can ask for many of them in a smaller amount. A year-round patio and cellar wine bar only make us more enthusiastic to recommend this place than ever before.QA‑5, ul. Kopernika 9, tel. (+48) 32 257 01 32, www.czardasz.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (28-49zł). U­I­ G­S­W

INDIAN BUDDHA The Indian owned and operated Buddha has brought authentic ethnic food to Katowice. Marked by great service and richly furnished with elegant antiques, tapestries, tiles and gold silk place-settings, Buddha has a head start before the food even arrives and fails to disappoint in that department as well. If it says it’s spicy (gasp!) it actually is, the curries are rich and portions are more than healthy. If you’re looking for a midweek fix don’t miss their new lunch menu (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00) for just 20 PLN! Overall a fine effort and more than worth the total on the check, which arrives in a hand-crafted box. They also offer catering and delivery services.

QA‑5, ul. Drzymały 9, tel. (+48) 32 608 00 50, www. buddha-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (22-50zł).

T­V­G­S­W MASALA HOUSE Masala House is a thoroughly authentic curry house and they don’t pull any punches or spare any spices.

Start off with a crunchy samosa or spicy onion bhaji then move on to a main dish of fish, chicken, beef, lamb or veggie and curries (vegan options also available).

Play it safe with a tikka masala or take the gloves off with some lamb rogan josh. Grab a mango lassi to put out that fire or any other beverage you may desire.

Don’t be shy if you’re not a member of the red hot chilli pepper’s fan club because there are plenty of milder curries to choose from and the colourful menu (English available) is chilli coded so you and your tongue know what you’re jumping into. Don’t miss their cheap lunch specials Mon - Fri 12:00 - 15:00.QA‑2, ul. Mickiewicza 32, tel. (+48) 32 253 00 43, www.masalahouse.eu.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-50zł).

T­V ­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

La cocina de México Mariacka 18a, Katowice tel. 32 209 01 40 www.elmexicano.pl November 2017 - February 2018 29

Restaurants THALI HOUSE BY MASALA HOUSE Katowice’s newest restaurant is also the first Thali restaurant in the city. Brought to you by the same team that run the excellent Masala House across town, this new Indian offering is right smack dab at the beginning of Mariacki and promises exactly what’s in the name - Thali! If you’ve never experienced Thali before it is something akin to Indian tapas where instead of getting one bowl of curry or sauce you get six little bowls of delicious sauces, chutneys and curries served with rice and naan.

The emphasis here is also on vegetarian and vegan options although meat options are also available. Once you walk into the beautifully designed and tastefully coloured interiors you’ll immediately be transported, and once you taste the food you’ll want to stay for the rest of the day.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 4, tel. (+48) 32 209 14 44, www.thalihouse.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (10-50zł). T­V­G­S­W

INTERNATIONAL BIERHALLE Dining in a shopping mall usually consists of being queue barged by tracksuited teens ordering burgers and putting the finishing touches to their acne, so Bierhalle is quite a bonus for all who find themselves exploring the guts of the Silesia City shopping mall. The best beer in Katowice should be the primary reason for your visit, but the food is by no means a poor relation. The menu here is pretty much as you’d expect: big piles of dead animals, perfect for lining the innards before putting their range of microbrews to the test. Order the likes of sausages, herring, and even tortillas, delivered cheerily by staff dressed like they’ve just finished milking cows.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (15-40zł). G­S­W BISTRO & CAFE KRYSTYNKA WRACA Z WIEDNIA This bright little bistro is quite a refreshing take on the cuisine and style of Vienna. If you’re thinking starched napkins and gilded portraits of moustachioed Habsburgs, think again. There’s nothing haughty or hifalutin about this delectable diner. They offer straight ahead delicious food of the hearty soup and scrumptious schnitzel variety with a subtle tip of the hat to Austrian tradition. They also do great service to Viennese cake and coffee culture so make sure to stop by in the earlier hours for a java jolt and to break the fast. In the colder months saddle up to a big creamy bowl of soup and a luscious latte. With food and drink like this we are by no means surprised by Miss Kristine’s illustrious return... we just hope she never leaves us again.QA‑6, ul. Kościuszki 45, tel. (+48) 32 733 38 20, www.krystynka.com.pl. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (19-36zł). T­6­G­S­W BISTRO & CAFE ZIELNIK The term bistro gets thrown around a lot these days but this bright and bustling cafe is indeed a true blue bistro at heart. From hearty breakfasts, to fresh squeezed juices, creative cakes, thrilling lunch specials and exquisite entrees, 30 Katowice In Your Pocket

there is a lot to like here. And the longer you stay the longer you want to stay. Our coffee and spinach cake ended in a 3 course lunch; they change their menu regularly, but there is always a duck option playing the starring role! A good rule of thumb is if you can see and hear the chef cooking, you know your meal is the real deal. Superb!QC‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 46 04. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (21-36zł). T­6­G­S­W BOHEMA Entirely elegant, there’s little bohemian about Bohema with its wine glasses and white tablecloth approach to fine dining - except maybe the surprisingly moderate prices.

Appear in-the-know by taking your date to this obscure restaurant on the south side and choose from a wide range of Polish and European meat and fish dishes; curiosities include the Salmon Carpaccio, tenderloin in forest mushroom sauce and an entire page of veggie side dishes entitled ‘Vitamins’ at the top. They even have a respectable kids menu to boot. Classy with a creme interior of black and white photos of 50s starlets, the separate downstairs bar offers something a bit more relaxed, although is only available for private parties and functions, so you must call in advance to arrange!QB‑7, ul. Bratków 4, tel. (+48) 32 202 51 80, www.restauracjabohema.com. Open 12:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (19-52zł). T­I­G­S­W BUŁKĘS Their tagline is all you really need to know: Pulled Pork and Pancakes. If you’re still not convinced then how about local micro-brewed craft beers on tap and in bottles, weekly lunch specials that will knock your socks off, prosecco cocktails and homemade cakes. Still not convinced? Come find us on their urban terrace – we’ll be digging into yet another BBQ pork, bacon and blue cheese sandwich (we’re addicted already) and washing it down with a fruity Silesian Hajer IPA. We’ll have a word or two for you; come early and come often!QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 10, tel. (+48) 780 09 09 66.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 14:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (20-40zł). T­6­U­G­S­W DRZWI ZWANE KONIEM One of the city’s newest “restobars” just also happens to have one of the city’s best beer gardens or, rather, a sprawling green terrace. With plenty of tables and chairs, pallet furniture and beach loungers to choose from they have the perfect seating option whether you’re just stopping in for a quick bite or making a night of it - this all remains available to you in winter! Inside the hip environs are deftly designed and intimately inviting. Order up a cafe beverage or smoothy at the bar by day or grab a local beer or glass of wine by night. Their carefully curated menu features an eclectic mix of Polish and European inspired light appetizers, healthy salads and savoury mains that you can order all day. The menu will be seasonal and democratic so do let your waiter know if you enjoy your meal. Fresh and refreshing!QE‑4, ul. Warszawska 37, tel. (+48) 32 204 12 53, www.drzwizwanekoniem.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (13-24zł). T­6­I­G­S­W iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants

Katowice, Chorzowska 109 / Silesia City Center Telefon kontaktowy: +48 506 788 775

iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 31

Restaurants FANTASMAGORIA A bit geographically perplexing for those of us who haven’t gotten the history lesson, Fantasmagoria specialises in “eastern-european” cuisine with some pan-european classics. The recently renovated restaurant itself has the homely feel of a grandmother’s kitchen and the woodburning oven where various meat dishes are grilled to perfection adds to the atmosphere. Expect generous portions cooked simply and well with a range of Georgian wines available to wash it all down.QJ‑3, ul. Gliwicka 51, tel. (+48) 32 253 00 59, www.fantasmagoria.katowice. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 22:30. (17-64zł).

T­6­U­G­S­W KLUBOGALERIA SARP This marvellous multifunctional restaurant, club, bar and architectural cultural centre recently arrived on the scene to much fanfare. Their various international inspired menus are reason enough to pay them a visit. If lunch is more your thing, stop in from 12:00 - 16:00 Mon-Sat for their daily special, costing 15zł which includes soup, main and a dessert. If none of that floats your boat just order off of the regular dinner menu with inspired soups, sides and mains until 23:00. Their numerous flat screen TVs mean that this is the rare venue that you can eat a delicious meal, drink a great cocktail and watch the big game at the same time.

QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 9, tel. (+48) 32 205 12 86. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (18-40zł).

G­W

Ma�ana Bistro & Wine Bar

ul. Wolności 15 Chorzów (+48) 508293640 info@bistromanana.pl /bistromanana Sun-Mon: 12:00 - 20:00 Tue-Thu: 12:00 - 21:00 Fri-Sat: 12:00 - 22:00

32 Katowice In Your Pocket

MAÑANA BISTRO & WINE BAR Another excellent destination in Chorzów, this ace cafebistro hits all the bases with delicious coffee, fine wines and a great menu that’s presented as a magazine full of savoury sandwiches and creative mains. It’s all stylishly presented and the renovated modern Parisian atmosphere of the small casually elegant interior makes this a great spot to stop for a light lunch (Mon-Fri 13:00 - 17:00, 20-35zł) or some after work down-time with a friend. Recommended.

QP‑4, ul. Wolności 15, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 508 29 36 40, www.bistromanana.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (29-70zł). T­6­G­ S­W PAN DE ROSSA Located in the Valley of Three Ponds (just east of F-5 on the map) – one of the city’s most popular recreation areas, Pan de Rossa makes more than just an appetising diversion for those creaking around on their bicycles. Unfortunately they downsized their seasonal terrace overlooking the pond when they moved across the road and into the trees.

However what they lost in views they gained in design with a fresh, modern décor with lots of light through their large windows. The menu remains a dissertation on local grilled fish and game dishes but has upped the Polish selections, likely to cater to a more local audience.QJ‑5, ul. Trzech Stawów 23 (os. Paderewskiego), tel. (+48) 32 256 05 52, www.panderossa.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (28-69zł). U­G­S­W iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants PATIO One of Katowice’s most popular restaurants just had an extensive renovation and they are all spiffed up and ready to serve. They got rid of some of the kitschy clutter, added some comfier chairs and brightened things up a bit so you can now see your delicious dish a bit better. Their extensive menu of regional dishes (Silesian beef roulade with dumplings and red cabbage) and European cuisine (pizzas, pastas, grilled meats and fish etc.) has plenty to offer. Their multi-lingual menus (English, German, French and Italian) make it easy for you to successfully order what some claim to be the best steak in town. For a bargain, visit between 11:00 and 16:00 Mon-Fri, when lunch is only 24zł.QB‑3, ul. Stawowa 3, tel. (+48) 32 781 55 55, www. restauracjapatio.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. (18-62zł). T­6­G­S­W PATIO PARK An exquisitely decorated and refreshingly spacious restaurant at the edge of Kościuszki Park. Reflected light above the faux trellises give the impression of daylight and cut branches hang from the trellises so as to give the impression of dining in a forest on a starry night. Countrystyle furniture, a rustic-themed mural, antique objects and elegantly simple table settings sustain the impression.

Wait staff are pleasant and speedy to respond. The chef takes a creative turn with entrees, adding garnish to some to resemble trees. The menu is long, but you may not have to venture past the chef’s recommendations on the first page to find something tempting. They’ve recently introduced tasting menus on Mon and Tues (55-75zł).

Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as they’ve just installed a new playground area so you can dine in peace.QJ‑5, ul. Kościuszki 101, tel. (+48) 32 205 30 77, www.patiopark.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (20100zł). T­U­S­W PATIO ZAJAZD The patriarch of the Patio family is also their biggest and most exclusive. The Polish ‘zajazd’ is something between a Diner, a Motel and a rip roaring wedding and function hall. Patio Zajazd fits the bill but ups the classiness and quality by a factor of ten. As with all Patio restaurants the food is the centrepiece and is a hearty mix of Polish staples and pan European fair. Steeped in tradition and experience, their chefs, waiters and hotel staff all provide top notch service and they even have a play area for your little ones (inside and out). Whether you’re simply stopping in for a bite to eat or staying for the weekend to celebrate a distant nephew’s nuptials. They have 22 comfortable Hotel quality rooms available on the premises.Qul. Kościuszki 352 (Piotrowice), tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www.patiozajazd.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

(12-89zł). T­U­I­G­S­W

Read more reviews online: katowice.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Stawowa 3, 40-095 Katowice tel. 32 781 55 55, 32 259 98 65 www.restauracjapatio.pl Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00

Our Family Tradition for over 70 years in gastronomy

Possibility of accommodation in cosy charming rooms!

Open: hotel 24h, restaurant 8:00 - 22:00

ul. Kościuszki 352, 40-690 Katowice tel. 32 202 95 56, tel. kom. 666-388-108 www.patiozajazd.pl November 2017 - February 2018 33

Restaurants

Restauracja Max Polish & International Cuisine, Venison

Katowice, al. Korfantego 105 +48 32 259 68 86

www.restauracja-max.pl

Katowice, ul 3 Maja 23

Sport Events on

42 TVs

4 bars 2 big screens tables 4 dart,billiards foosball tables

2dance floors www.citypub.pl tel. +48 32 253 97 99 www.facebook.com/city.pub.katowice 34 Katowice In Your Pocket

RESTAURACJA MAX This is an absolute Katowice institution and if you happen to have a taste for the wilder meats, then Max is the place for you to get your fix. Their cuisine hovers somewhere between trans-European and traditional Polish with an expansive menus of delicate starters, hearty soups and decadent mains. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the many exotic game dishes and regular specials they have on offer. Choose from roast wild boar or Venison steaks! If you can’t decide on just one go for the chef’s wild game platter for two. NOTE: Max is located about a 10 minute walk north of the Spodek and just off of our map on ul. KorfantegoQK‑1, Al. Korfantego 105, tel. (+48) 32 259 68 86, www.restauracja-max.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-34zł). T­G­S­W RESTAURACJA MONOPOL This regal bistro recently had its menu overhauled had its art-deco decor totally redecorated. Located in the heart of the City on the ground floor of the city’s only 5 star Hotel the very capable head chef has concocted the ideal seasonal sensations for light leisurely breakfast and midday meals. If you’re feeling a bit more peckish check out their daily lunch menu (daily from 12:00 - 16:00). Their extensive wine list will also help you start your day in style.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. U­G­S­W RESTAURACJA POD DREWNIANYM BOCIANEM A new franchise of a tried and true Chorzów and Ruda Śląska legends, the Katowice version of the stalky stork is a bit more modern and elegant than the rest of its flock.

Here they have gone the downtown route offering fine dining mixed with occasional live music. Although the atmosphere is much more sophisticated the menu is in fact similar which is very much to their credit. Thin crust pizzas cooked in a wood fire oven are the centrepiece of their expansive menu which also delves deeply into other Mediterranean staples like pastas, salads and seafood with a smattering Polish classics and Silesian specialities for good measure. The portions are large and the food is outstanding. Judging from the positivity of the staff and the meticulousness of the new design and expansive private event room, this bird has come to roost for a long while.

QJ‑3, ul. Gliwicka 49, tel. (+48) 532 53 22 22, www. drewnianybocian.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (17-65zł). T­V­G­S­W RESTAURACJA TAMARYND Located in the ground floor of the M Hotel Sosnowiec, the Tamarynd takes the hotel dining experience to a new level.

Serving up a mix of Mediterranean classics highlighted by separate tapas and pizza menus plus a huge selection of starters, soups, salads, pastas and mains. With supremely elegant interiors accentuated by chandeliers, mirrors covering the walls and a bright and colourful decor, the only question you’ll be left asking is ‘Are these prices for real?’ Tamarynd gives you yet another reason to visit the iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants up and coming North Eastern ‘borough’ of Sosnowiec.Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199 (M Hotel Sosnowiec), Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 507 55 50 03, www.tamarynd.pl. Open 06:30 22:00. (19-39zł). T­U­X­S­W RESTAURACJA VACANZA It’s rare that a hotel restaurant would warrant the trip for those not staying upstairs, but Silesian dining is precisely the kind of perfect storm that makes Vacanza an oasis of taste. Warm Mediterranean interiors include a fireplace and sunny four season timber-beamed terrace, and it merely follows suit that the excellent menu be an exploration of southern European tastes and ingredients. With several banquet rooms on hand, it’s also worth considering if you’re planning more than a casual dinner.Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie (Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie), tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.hotelediament. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-60zł). T­6­U­G­o­S­W STEAKHOUSE DA DA If there were such a thing as the beaten path in Katowice, Stekhouse would certainly be off it, but it’s worth seeking out if you’re feeling particularly rapacious. With a variety of choice cuts of primo authentico Argentine beef steaks (Black Angus), Irish beef steaks (Hereford) and other choice cuts from around the globe (Chile, Japan and even Poland!).

If you’re a meat lover you can’t go wrong. There’s an English menu on hand and the pleasant staff are more than happy to help out.QA‑6, ul. Gen. Zajączka 17 (entrance from ul.

Poniatowskiego), tel. (+48) 32 205 61 03. Reservation only. (35-115zł). G­W TATIANA A long, thin restaurant with elegant, cleverly designed wooden floors and ceilings. The organic design is enhanced with decorative bamboo and suspended reeds and a new lighting system which make for a bright and warm atmosphere. One of Katowice’s finer and suitably popular establishments, the menu features an extensive range of Slavic and European dishes including steaks (the best in the city?) plus a seasonal menu that changes every three months. The Silesian style ‘Żurek’ (sour rye soup) with mashed potato, sausage and egg is as traditional as you can get, and wow, what a taste! Great food with a wine list to match.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 5, tel. (+48) 32 203 74 13, www.restauracjatatiana.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (22-98zł). U­I­G­S­W

ITALIAN BAR A BOO The furthest restaurant on the Mariacka strip but more than well worth the trip. Specializing in pizzas, pastas and other Italian treats, this popular eatery hits all the right notes avoids being just another Italian place. With authentic wood fired pizzas at the heart of it all, their seasonal menus are built around the freshest of ingredients both sourced locally and imported from Italy. Their Pappardelle Porcini with porcini mushrooms, cured tomatoes, onion, garlic and iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 35

Restaurants wine and butter sauce was just the ticket! The colourful wine and drink menu (Prosecco, Bellini!) is expertly presented and paired by their friendly and knowledgable waitstaff. Delicioso!QE‑4, ul. Mariacka 37, tel. (+48) 32 399 15 26, www.baraboo.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (10-49zł). T­G­S­W CRISTALLO Climb a grand marble staircase to reach Cristallo, the stunning show-piece restaurant of the Monopol Hotel.

A glass roof allows guests to watch the evening unravel above them, while the discreet interiors of bare brick walls and steel tubing lend a minimalist aesthetic to the experience. Select from the imaginative Italian-inspired menu with succulent dishes such as octopus burger and a choice of grilled fish. You pay for the quality here, and it comes as no surprise that diners trek across Silesia to do so.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 09, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

(25-85zł). U­E­G­S­W

ul. Warszawska 15 Katowice (+48) 572359131 info@novorestobar.pl novorestobar.pl /novorestobar/ godziny otwarcia: Mon: 16:00 - 23:00 Tue - Thu: 12:00 - 23:00 Fri-Sat: 12:00 - 01:00 San: 12:00 - 21:00

LEN ARTE Len Arte takes the cake for the best pizza pie in town. The incredible smells wafting from their wood fired oven will hit you way before you queue up for a table. And wait you will (unless you call ahead), as this is one of the hottest gastronomic tickets in town. Once you make it inside you’ll see why their pies are so divine. They have countless artisanal Italian products prominently displayed behind the bar. Peperoncinis, prosciutto, pasta, parmesan, pesto, porcini oh my! Choose from an impossible list of pristine pizzas, scrumptious salads, perfect pastas and delicious dolces. Top it all off with an authentic espresso and you’ll be shouting Bravissimo along with the rest of town.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 25, tel. (+48) 32 308 84 30, www.lenarte. com.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (15-40zł). T­6­N­G­S­W NEW NOVO The first thing you’ll be struck by as you walk in to NOVO is the huge stone bake oven right at the bar (we think it’s the only one in Kato!). The second thing you’ll be struck by is the sight of all the chopped wood, used for said oven, stored all around the restaurant, craftily incorporated into the decor. The restaurant has a fantastic feel to it, with pots of herbs adorned on the outside wall of the courtyard garden. Now, order your food and watch as it’s all made in the glass walled kitchen outside - try not to put the chefs off from their fine work. You may notice the menu is printed on regular paper, and for good reason, as the menu is seasonal and regularly updated, although they do have their regular dishes. The wine list is huge and we’re sure you’ll find something to tickle your fancy.QD‑4, ul. Warszawska 15, tel. (+48) 572 35 91 31. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

(20-70zł). T­6­S­W

36 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants RISTORANTE TERRA MARE Although slightly off the beaten track, this superb and elegant Italian seafood restaurant has a fleet of culinary delights. The stunning interiors set the tone with the seafaring Mediterranean theme done impressively well.

Most restaurants that attempt such a theme end up looking like a Pirates of the Caribbean set. It’s a testament to the owners that they can somehow suspend a dingy from the ceiling and make it look elegant. Design aside, the food is the main attraction and the rare site of a lobster tank with live lobsters should be an indication of what kind of quality (and price) you should expect. Authentic antipastas, perfect handmade pastas and main dishes that are fit for a king (prawn). While every dish looks enticing we suggest ordering a fish or seafood dish as it might be the best you’ve had this side of the Alps. Magnifico! For parents, there is the added piece of mind that there’s a kids’ corner on the 1st floor.QN‑1, Al. Roździeńskiego 191B, tel. (+48) 515 05 56 00, www.terramare.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (35-300zł). T­U­G­S­W

„The Best Sushi Restaurant in Poland“ according to Rzeczpospolita (One of Poland‘s leading newspapers)

A large selection of hot dishes Home and office delivery

JAPANESE HANA SUSHI A former swimming pool attached to one of Katowice’s closed coal mines, this lovely brick building has been refitted to house the city’s best sushi house and Japanese restaurant. With the added advantage of being at the Silesia City Centre, yet sovereign over its own independent space and atmosphere (they even have their own separate parking next door), Hana Sushi boasts a rich menu rife with Japanese delicacies and hot dishes for those still suspicious of the sushi fad. If you don’t feel like making your way to Silesia’s biggest shopping mall.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 109, tel. (+48) 32 605 09 77, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-89zł). T­U­V­G­S­W KYOTO SUSHI Located up the first set of escalators inside the swanky Altus Centre, this large, excellent Japanese restaurant comes with lots of wood trimmings, a tinkling tranquility pond in the centre complete with flowing fountain. Choose from Nigiri, Maki, Sashimi and classic Japanese dishes, washing it down with a Japanese wine, beer, whisky or a carafe of sake.QD‑3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 603 01 66, www.kyotosushi.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (45-87zł).

U­G­S­W OKONOMIYAKI YO! Japanese food has been a little played out as of late as the vast majority of restaurants serve up carbon copy cookie cutter sushi. Yo! on the other hand, serves up piping hot Japanese soul food you’ve probably never heard of. Their signature dish (Okonomiyaki) is something between a crepe and a large overstuffed omelette filled with noodles, cabbage, bacon seasoned with dashi, katsubishi and topped with special thick tangy sauce and chives all prepared on a flattop teppan grill in front of your iyp.me/polandblog

Katowice – Silesia City Center Ul. Chorzowska 109 tel. + 48 32 60-50-977 tel. + 48 32 60-50-975 Facebook/ Hana Sushi Katowice

November 2017 - February 2018 37

Restaurants very eyes. Also try grilling Yakitori (chicken) skewers and Maguro (tuna) on tiny charcoal grills right at your table.

The colourful and tempting menu is filled out by healthy smoothies, original savoury ice creams and Japanese beers, Sake and spirits. Check it out YO!QD‑4, ul. Francuska 1A (entrance from ul. Starowiejska), tel. (+48) 505 76 20 56, www.okonomiyaki.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:30, Mon 16:00 21:30. (15-45zł). T­U­G­W

MEDITERRANEAN LA CANTINA Here we go dropping the superlatives: Located 4km from Katowice’s centre in lovely Dolina Trzech Stawów (wait for it), those who make the trek out to this Mediterranean charmer (wait for it) will be rewarded with not only the beautiful surroundings of Valley of Three Ponds (wait for it), but also Katowice’s finest restaurant, hands down and undulating in adulation (!!). The stone and wood interior - comfortably casual, but with all the expected finery creates a warm dining atmosphere that will ripen any mood. Top off your superb meal of decadent delights with a killer wine list and it’s easy to forget Katowice isn’t located somewhere in Provence.QL‑5, ul. Trzech Stawów 22, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 27, www.la-cantina.pl. Open 09:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (28-200zł). T­6­U­I­ X­S­W

Mediterranean Cuisine THE BEST MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT IN THE REGION Let us take you to a Mediterranean climate where you can feel the rhythm of a sunny day.

Our restaurant can be found in the HOTEL ALTUS PRESTIGE, FIRST FLOOR. ul. Uniwersytecka 13, Katowice mobile +48 512 020 808 tel +48 (32) 603 01 91 katowice@viatoscana.pl www.viatoscana.pl 38 Katowice In Your Pocket

RESTAURANT VIA TOSCANA A sensory delight awaits you on the second floor of Altus Tower with intriguing interiors touting archways, lampposts, vines and even mock balconies. It’s every much as delightful on the palette as it is on the eye, with a menu featuring Argentinean beef, a great pickled salmon carpaccio and seafood. The house specialty is octopus in a white wine sauce with cherry tomatoes and arugala served over pappardelle pasta. Wine and dine al fresco on their expansive 60 person terrace. Equally suited to romantic trysts or hushed business dinners, Via Toscania is further proof of Katowice’s growing stature.QD‑3, ul.

Uniwersytecka 13 (Altus Tower), tel. (+48) 32 603 01 91, www.viatoscana.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-115zł).

T­U­X­S­W SHRIMP HOUSE Started by three brothers with a passion for cooking, Shrimp House provides something that in the past was lacking in Polish gastronomy but now gradually springing up here and there, and now now available right in the centre of Katowice - damn good shrimp! Just a stones throw away from the main train station and offering fresh produce, not tiny, frozen, poor quality prawns. Inspired by the food truck trend, the brothers offer a delicious variety of shrimp bites, from pasta and tomato sauce, garlic and white wine sauce, curried shrimp all the way to Pho soup, all with various dips on offer. The food on offer is the real deal...at long last.QB‑4, ul. Młyńska 11, tel. (+48) 726 50 06 66, www.shrimp-house.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (19-30zł). T­6­GS­W iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants MEXICAN EL MEXICANO If you’re anything like us and you’ve tried one too many cabbage filled tacos in mexican kitschfiestaurants across Poland, then you’ll understand our initial hesitation. But as soon as we saw the tastefully colourful exterior of El Mexicano, we knew this was something special. The small and brightly coloured interior balances perfectly with the straight ahead authentic Tex-Mex they serve. Mouth-watering spices meld with fresh ingredients, almost all of which actually belong in Mexican dishes (no kapusta rancheros here!).

They even offer imported chipotle and habanero sauces if you want to fire up those fajitas. Besides great food and drink the atmosphere is relaxed and there’s absolutely no risk of being serenaded by a pimply faced Politechnika student in a sombrero. Muchos Bravos Mexicanos!QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 18A, tel. (+48) 790 82 26 82, www.elmexicano.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (19-56zł). G­S­W

POLISH CADENZA Occupying a prominent position on the second floor of the country’s foremost concert hall, Cadenza has a lot of rolls to fill; it is the pre-concert venue for dinner, drinks or snacks; it is the intermission wine and cake stop; it is the catering kitchen for all NOSPR special events that happen both inside and out; it is, most importantly, the most cutting edge and innovative Polish restaurant in Katowice.

Every seasonal dish is carefully composed and explodes in a symphony of pianissimo and fortissimo flavors. The Beef cheeks boiled in beer, caramel, potato puree with mustard seeds, roasted vegetables and sturgeon filet were clear standouts and we will gladly return for an encore performance of more of their inspiring culinary delights.

QB‑3/4, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 47, www.cadenza.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (3252zł). T­G­S­W CHATA Z ZALIPIA Paying homage to the specific folk art tradition of the faraway Małopolska village of Zalipie, the rustic cottage interior of this pleasant peasant offering features elaborate flower murals on the white walls, garlic garlands hanging from timber beams and plenty of other farm fittings. Delicious Polish home-cooking is served on beautifully decorated ceramic dish ware, while waitresses in traditional dress and disco folk music round out what serves as one of the best introductions to Polish cuisine in Silesia. They’ve even won several culinary awards and what’s more, many Polish stars of stage and screen seem to count themselves as regulars.

The one and only Slash polished off some pierogi here not so long ago. Rock and rolada!QC‑5, ul. Wojewódzka 15, tel. (+48) 32 205 33 00, www.chatazzalipia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (17-38zł). T­6­U­G­ S­W iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 39

Restaurants RESTAURACJA KUCHNIA OTWARTA Formerly known as the Restauracja Autorska Adama Gessler, this elegant and exciting open kitchen concept restaurant serves up some of the best upscale regional Silesian cuisine around. Located on the edge of the Best Western Premier Hotel Forum right on the edge of Silesia Park. Treat yourself to some of the regions finest fare including beef cheeks, veal shanks and even more traditional fare such as pierogies and soulful soups. The food is top notch but the service is world class as the chefs serve you themselves - personally bringing the food straight from the pan to your warm plate.

Elegance, atmosphere and a memorable experience are virtually guaranteed. Now part of the prestigious Silesian Culinary Trail, this is certifiably one of the best places to taste true Silesian and Polish cuisine.Qul. Bytkowska 1A, Katowice (Best Western Premier Hotel Forum Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 721 11 66, www.kuchniaotwarta.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (35-69zł). 6­U­G­S­W RYCERSKI Located in what appears to be a wooden mountain chalet (but is in fact the Hotel Rycerski), this is a very decent place to take in the Polish food experience. Heavy wooden bench-style furniture, friendly waitresses and large servings of well-prepared Polish grub are actually worth the trip out here, even if you’re not staying in the adjacent hotel. Lots of seating and a well-stocked bar mean that the atmosphere often develops into that of a thriving beer hall.Qul. Będzińska 53 (Hotel Rycerski), Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (2079zł). T­U­I­G­S­W WIEJSKA CHATKA (THE RUSTIC HUT) Katowice’s only truly traditional Polish and Silesian restaurant is a nice change of pace if not slightly out of place. A cavalcade of country-style adornments such as old farming tools and painted flowers contrast nicely with the bright white walls. The background music is as kitschy and folky as it comes which goes perfectly with the large portions of hearty Polish staples and Silesian delicacies piled high upon your plate. They also offer breakfasts and lunch specials and a boat load of beverages to boot. This urban ‘Village’ is one you just must pillage when you’re in town.QK‑2, Pl. Grunwaldzki 4, tel. (+48) 32 350 30 10, www.wiejskachatka.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (15-50zł). T­V­G­S­W ZŁOTY RÓG (THE GOLDEN HORN) A combined delicatessen and place to stand at a table and eat in the style of a train station buffet, this humble-looking establishment churns out a large array of outstanding dishes ready to eat in an instant from pierogi to roast beef, all served with a superb choice of side dishes and salads.

If you don’t mind the peculiar dining arrangements you won’t find it easy to get a better and tastier bargain than in here. Check in or visit their FB for details on daily discounts.

QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 2, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 48, www. zlotyrogkatowice.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. (10-30zł). G­S 40 Katowice In Your Pocket

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Restaurants SILESIAN MOODRO RESTAURANT Not to be confused with the Bistro/Cafe of the same name across the courtyard in the main museum complex, this is the much larger and more elegant restaurant in the old Machinery Building of the Silesian Museum. The refined exposed brick interiors with large picture windows overlook the rest of the Museum’s stunning campus. Their exquisite seasonal cuisine can best be described as Modern Silesian Fusion. Expect futuristic European fare and classic Silesian with flare (think rolada śląska with dumplings and red cabbage etc.). With a great wine list and impeccable service, you may find yourself becoming a repeat customer, Museum visit or not.QK‑3, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1A (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 93 01, www. moodro.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (25-74zł).

U­G­S­W ŻUROWNIA If you’re not familiar yet with the Polish soup Żurek, it’s your lucky day. It is a sour rye soup and one of the most iconic of all Polish soups. This new bustling bistro is a shrine to the humble soup and you can order a big ole bowl with hard boiled eggs and/or sausages. But you know what they say, come for the soup and stay for the Silesian street food. The local patriotism is strong in this place (the main menu is in Silesian and the cooks shout at each other in it) and they scoured the whole region for the best quick bites they could find. Try the ‘Ślązak’ aka Silesian kielbasa hot dog or a ’Hajer’ tortilla wrap with red cabbage, beef and pickles, among other things. This is Silesian soul food served up fast and cheap as chips (braty)! There is also a conference room (holds up to 30 people, catering available), should you need it.QB‑5, ul.

Ligonia 16, tel. (+48) 535 08 46 66. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

(9-20zł). T­6­U­I­G­S­W

VIETNAMESE LITTLE HANOI...AND MORE! Set on a pedestrianised street in the heart of Katowice within walking distance of the train station and Katowice’s ‘Market Square,’ Little Hanoi is a welcome departure from eating dumplings, or even the lowstandard Chinese restaurants found across the country.

Granted, the minimal décor containing the obligatory lanterns, decent Vietnamese dishes and friendly staff are not unique in Poland, but as far as eating options in central Katowice go, this is a definite step in the right direction. The spicy soup was a solid beginning, the ribs were delicious and their signature Duck “Little Hanoi” style was to-die-for! Wash it down with a Lime Nuoc Chanh and like us you’ll be fortified for the evening ahead with hardly a dent made in your wallet.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 4, tel. (+48) 886 62 33 88, www. littlehanoi.eu. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 21:00.

(30-80zł). U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 41

Nightlife

Longway’s history spans further than the bar! (p.46)

Katowice’s nightlife is improving steadily, with more and more bars and clubs opening that hold themselves to a higher creative standard. While there was a time when a Saturday night on the town felt like creeping quietly through a cemetery, that has all changed in a hurry with the emergence of ul. Mariacka (D-3/4) as the city’s nightlife headquarters. A pedestrianised threeblock stretch that was once all strip clubs and shady gay saunas (ok, those are still there), the city has put a lot of energy into cleaning it up and turning it into the high street it should be. Despite some dreadful urban design decisions including ugly, uncomfortable benches and strange sculptures, the city is finally seeing results with a plethora of restaurants, cafes, cocktail bars and clubs moving in to give the city centre some buzz. In summer, Mariacka is full of outdoor seating and flooded with people, but there are plenty of other hedonist hideouts to discover elsewhere with the help of this guide. The venues we list below are located throughout the Silesian Metropolis, with the name of the town added to the end of the address after a comma (with a map reference if applicable) if it is not in Katowice proper; districts of Katowice are shown in brackets. The opening hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for.

ELITE Katowice isn’t exactly the place to take your twentysomething arm trophy for a romantic weekend, but you can probably pick one up while you’re here. To that end 42 Katowice In Your Pocket

try the smart Wall Street (p.25), or the more sophisticated Klub Prime (p.49).

LADS Foreign funboys can mix with the locals in the context of their own culture in the likes of Ambasada Śledzia (p.44) and Boombarr (p.4), before drinking enough Guinness to lurk across the lively dancefloors of Rajzefiber (p.49) or the classic City Pub (p.45). Bierhalle microbrewery (p.46) is also ideal for team piss-ups.

STUDENTS Not the most discerning demographic, students will go anywhere there’s fun music and cheap drinks, namely Bavitto (p.48); those with more intent to impress will try Spiż (p.46), or Kato (p.46).

COUPLES Couples looking for romance should find it by dropping in to Old Cuban (p. 47) for some of the best cocktails in the city and a truly tropical atmosphere, before retreating to the cosy cushions of Longway (p.46).

ALTERNATIVE Katowice has a fair number of cult venues with the hardliving Śruba i Przyjaciele (p.47) and artsy-DIY Kato (p.46) being among the best offbeat boozers in the city. Hipsters and beer loving backpackers gravitate to Namaste (p.47) and Biała Małpa (p.43) respectively. Those with more elevated musical tastes will find few finer clubs than Hipnoza (p.46), whether there’s a live concert on or not. iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife BARS & PUBS AMNEZJA Amnezja has a lot going for it without a lot of gimmicks.

Unlike many of the other shady shot bars and crowded student dives, this place is seriously spacious, offering all sorts of nooks and crannies to tuck away in over three floors. Their buzzing beer garden is great for seasonal people watching on the Mariacka strip. There is a slight Western vibe with a lot of exposed brick and tasteful black murals of cowboys, Krakow and Katowice by art.pl. But the star of the show is most certainly the beer. Their claim to fame is the delicious super fresh “14 day” Tyskie which they get straight from the factory. The perfectly poured Pilsner (in 3 different ways, no less) is equally worth your attention.

In short, Amnezja is a great spot for groups, dates or solo acts looking to enjoy a modern day Silesian saloon.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 16, tel. (+48) 504 06 79 03. Open 14:00 03:00. X­W BIAŁA MAŁPA (THE WHITE MONKEY) This alabaster ape drapes itself in cool and drowns itself in sudsy pools of amber nectar nightly. This premium primate has achieved cult status among Katowice beer lovers. You’ll see why as soon as you squeeze through its monkey bars. Warm woods, exposed brick and a new heated winter beer garden greet you before you even see the star of the show... the wall of beer! The biggest and oldest Silesian multitap bar has over 300 bottled varieties of Polish, Czech, Belgian, English and Irish artisanal beers and ales on hand plus a rotating cast of 20 brews on tap plus 1 pump. And don’t fear the beer, the knowledgeable staff is eager to offer advice and help you navigate their seas of suds. Come for a coffee during the day and fight with all your might to order that first pint of the night. If that doesn’t tickle your fancy, try out the whisky offers!

One a side note, we think Biała Małpa may just be the only place to have a winter beer garden, so brave the elements and enjoy the outside!QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 604 86 61 73, www.bialamalpa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00.

G­o­W

THE FIRST SILESIAN MULTITAP BAR.

A PLACE CREATED WITH A PASSION FOR BEER. WE ASSIST AND ADVISE YOU IN CHOOSING

THE PERFECT TYPE OF BEER FOR YOU.

20 TAPS - 1 PUMP - 200 VARIETIES OF BOTTLED BEER.

3 Maja 38, Katowice, tel. +48 604 866 173

NEW BOOMBARR What’s better than a sports bar filled with lots of screens showing sports? More display screens, of course! And this place has 15 of them, to be precise. If that isn’t enough, for those that dig the Hooters clime, the waitresses are dressed rather...skimpily! The owners emphasise that all sports will be shown and that this isn’t just another place to drink cheap beer and watch football, indeed, they have a decent menu to match with salads, soups, pizzas and pasta dishes on offer. For those searching for that extra bit of comfort, VIP boxes can be reserved for groups wishing to watch a sports event on a screen, or simply for a special occasion.QD‑4, ul. Mielęckiego 6, tel. (+48) 666 60 06 66. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 43

Nightlife POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Photo by Karol Grzenia

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4zł. Familiar as the bar food of the lean communist years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledź (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski bars offer budget food and drink late night and are a great place to meet the city’s strangest characters. We list the best in Katowice below: AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA Only open for a few months and this embassy of herring has taken Katowice’s main party strip by storm.

This Silesian incarnation of a Cracovian establishment of the same name has a similar style, philosophy and thankfully the very same chef as the original. The formula is seemingly well known by now - cheap Polish ‘tapas’ and even cheaper beer and booze. However, what makes them a big fish in the little fish game is their singular style, festive atmosphere (the flowing beer) and the superb quality and originality of their food. They currently offer 10 types of herring, including exotic flavours such as curry, spicy and beet marinated, plus a winter version with ginger. If you’re not a fan of the slippery fishies try a hot dish such as BBQ ribs, pork knuckle, potato casseroles or try a slice of apple pie or NYC style cheesecake. Well done, Ambassador!QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 25, tel. (+48) 600 36 15 15. Open 10:00 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. (4-12zł). 6­G­W 44 Katowice In Your Pocket

BROWARIAT The brew brothers behind Browariat literally built the bar around mostly Bavarian craft beer brands. Schonram, Jopen, Fourpure, The Kernel, Partizan Het Uiltje, Brew By Numbers and Founders brews are on tap and in bottles in a colourful variety of hand crafted ales, dunkels, stouts and IPAs. Each style has its very own corresponding glass, stein or flute. They also offer a selection of beers from a visiting brewer on a rotating basis. Choose whichever tasty beverage suits your fancy and settle into one of the many cozy corners or plunk down in front of a plasma screen and support your favourite sport.QD‑5, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 535 00 97 68, www.browariat.com. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 22:00. G­W C4 Rail slide into this alt dive that’s filled with bass music, skate culture, foosball, local small batch vodkas and heady micro brews. If none of these things grab your attention then you best walk on by... But if you checked off any of these boxes, follow the pedestrian underpass to the wrong side of the tracks and get ready to get jacked. Lotsa love for artisanal beer here offering dozens of bottled beer from all over the world and 11 microbrews on tap. C4 nights are soundtracked by D’n’B, dubstep and/or reggae DJs. Even in the colder months the parties spill out onto the impromptu beer garden and expertly placed staircase. Rub elbows with all sorts of sordid characters from the K-vice DIY underground... light years away from your Hotel bar.

Come C4 yourself!QC‑5, ul. Wojewódzka 26 A, tel. (+48) 504 48 48 89. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. X­W CITY PUB One of the places that always comes up when enquiries are made about the best places to drink in town and its cult status is unquestionable. The seemingly small bar is delightfully deceptive as the ground floor houses two bars, numerous private rooms including a billiards, foosball and darts lounge, several larger rooms and a decked out dance floor not to mention smoking rooms and a swanky VIP lounge in the basement with a couple more bars to boot!

The true charm of City Pub (the oldest pub in Kato!) is that it manages to walk the line between being a Pub and a Club.

Curl up with one of the best poured Guinness in Silesia to watch a match or play some billiards during the week and on the weekends dive into their den of sweaty delinquency.

On Wednesdays there is a salsa and bachata night, and on Thursday is students’ night (studenckie czwartki)!QB‑3, ul.

3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 97 99, www.citypub.pl. Open Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. U­X­W

Where’s the party? facebook.com/KatowiceInYourPocket iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife 1/2 LITER OF BEER CONTAINS 25 GRAMS OF PURE ETHYL ALCOHOL EVEN THIS AMOUNT IS ENOUGH TO HAVE NEGATIVE EFFECTS ON A PREGNANT WOMAN AND IS UNSAFE FOR DRIVERS

DROP IN AND TRY 14-DAY OLD TYSKIE FRESHNESS STRAIGHT FROM THE BREWERY! At Amnezja you can also grab one for the road!

MARIACKA 16, KATOWICE CYBERMACHINA And now for something completely different… Classic Nintendo characters great you as you wander wide-eyed into this neon dream gaming lounge that offers all sorts of entertainment for hardcore gamers, pinball wizards, jenga junkies and the occasional Catan cartel. Order up a craft brew on tap or out of bottle or power up on one of their signature cocktail elixirs and shots. Even if you are flying solo, the wall of console games and the big screen TV streaming worldwide video game tournaments will keep you enthralled all night long. Check their FB page for special events and tournaments.QC‑4, ul. Św. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 608 12 11 93, www.cybermachina.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 24:00. U­G­W

KATO Once a discreet DIY bohemian art bar, this hipster hangout is THE place to be seen in Kato’s underground cultural scene. Despite being inside a perfectly sound structure, the bar is made almost entirely of unpainted plywood, from the tables to the wheat-pasted walls covered in graphic nonsense, all in an attempt to convince the shabby-chic clientele that they haven’t gone mainstream on Mariacka, but are merely squatting. Since a recent expansion, tattooed, counter-culture queens and their jacks continue to spill onto the seasonal pallet tables and fritz cola benches. Bolstered by a solid selection of Czech and Polish microbrews, Kato is the best alternative nightlife venue in town, bar none.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 13, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. G­W

DRINK BAR Located inside the Best Western Premier Hotel Forum Katowice, the creatively monikered Drink Bar offers an ideal place to relax and take a load off, whether it be via a coffee and the international press in the morning, or a cocktail and a little conversation after work. The staff is capable and the bar stocked with a selection of teas and tinctures from around the world. Another plus is the small separate lounge which allows you to organise your small business meeting, not only without leaving the building, but at the bar.Qul. Bytkowska 1A (Best Western Premier Katowice Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 721 11 11, www.bestwesternkatowice.pl.

Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. U­G­W

KLUBOGALERIA SARP SARP is quickly becoming a hotspot for cutting edge parties and exhibitions. On weekends, the restaurant turns into a full fledged club. Fridays and Saturdays they host some of the best Silesian DJs and a few times a month they host concerts, which may or may not involve the grand piano that also serves as the DJ booth. The full bar offers a wide selection of drinks and cocktails including a prosecco drink menu and a nice selection of wine and whiskeys. SARP is a smart choice whether you’re looking to just relax and watch the big game for a while, or to have a great night out in style.

QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 9, tel. (+48) 32 205 12 86. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. G­W

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November 2017 - February 2018 45

Nightlife MICROBREWERIES BIERHALLE No matter how many hangovers you endure drinkers will find themselves returning to the scene of the crime, Bierhalle, time and time again. The reason for this is the best beer in the city. There’s a number of brews to choose from, ranging from pilsner to amber marcowe with the wheat standing out as our personal fave, but we encourage you to have a go at them all. Primarily a restaurant, the design is all heavy timber, bare brick and industrial flourishes, while efficient staff dressed as peasant wenches work miracles hoisting heavy tankards and keeping track of the deluge of food and drink orders.QI‑2, ul.

Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

G­W SPIŻ (BRONZE) Few places have reinvented themselves so fully and completely in recent memory then Spiż. In 2011 the storied dance brewery shuttered their doors for a ‘renovation’. At some point one of the powers that be ended up on a plane to Ibiza and the decision was made to purchase a sound system and light display that would make David Guetta go deaf and blind. In a year and a half’s time the massive two floor club was given a facelift, tummy tuck and a boob job and what you’ll find inside will literally blow your mind. They claim it’s the most modern night club in Poland and from the looks of it they aren’t just blowing smoke (machines)...

If you consider yourself a fan of serious clubbing and great beer - it is your destiny to dance here.. till you can’t hear... for a year.QJ‑3, ul. Opolska 22, tel. (+48) 32 781 11 32, www.spiz.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. U­X ­W

JAZZ HIPNOZA JAZZ CLUB This intimate, laid-back concert venue books some of the city’s best international gigs, the reputation and subsequent turnout for which often exceeds the size of the space. Packed with interesting characters sitting on truly comfortable couches and lazyboys beneath foil-wrapped ducts and rotating psychedelic spirals on the walls, there’s also a decent food menu of pastas, burgs and zapiekankas (ask a friend) if you get a snack attack.

QC‑6, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 660 47 61 56, www.jazzclub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. U­X ­W 46 Katowice In Your Pocket

KREDENS (THE CUPBOARD) Stuffed with broken-spined books, old luggage, dusty sewing machines and springy sofas, Kredens’ dishevelled bohemian spirit wouldn’t be out of place in jazzy Kraków, where antique furnishings, candlelight and newsprint collages have become par for the course. In Katowice it stands out as one of the most interesting places in town, and one of the few that you might actually want to return to. With a recently expanded menu of low budget eats from pastas, burgers, salads to pizza you may not have any reason to leave.QE‑5, ul. Św. Jacka 9, tel. (+48) 32 785 91 63, www.kredens-pub.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. W NEW LONGWAY The newest bar to hit Katowice, serving cocktails and over 250 kinds of vodka from Poland and all over the world. Located in the centre, just along from Plac Wolności, Longway is a quaint bar with a lot of history. Enter to see spruced up original wood furnishings, and a nice, well, long bar! Eager beavers will be interested to know there has been a bar here, in various incarnations, since at least 1912 (the only unaccounted for period being during World War II, which I’m sure you can forgive!). The service is friendly, chatty and informative, great for discussing your next cocktail option! If sitting at the bar isn’t your thing, relax amongst the cushioned area next to the window and watch the world go by, just like this bar has been doing for over 100 years.QJ‑3, ul. Gliwicka 10, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 62. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 18:00 - 23:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. E­G­W MAŁY KREDENS A great little bar in the spirit of its sister venue, full of wobbly furnishings, candlelight, clutter and clippings on the wall.

The recently expanded space means there are plenty of intriguing nooks to fold yourself into, and the slightly more central location means it can get absolutely packed. No surprise considering Mały Kredens offers one of the best bar atmospheres in Katowice, with two enormous additional incentives: six beers on tap including Murphy’s and Paulaner at the lowest prices we’ve ever seen!QD‑4, ul. Św.

Stanisława 5, tel. (+48) 32 720 62 86, www.kredens-pub. pl. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. GX­W MR FOX PUB&RESTO This sly fox has a streamlined retro feel and a laid back atmosphere which belies its considerable gastronomic ambitions. The extensive food menus cover all the major meals (including happy hour) and span most current culinary trends from obvious winners like burgers and pizza to healthier fare such as goat cheese salad plus there’s even a little Mexican thrown in! Their extensive drink menu almost overshadows their impressive food offer with all manner of smoothies, shakes, original cocktails, coffee beverages and tea drinks. Good luck leaving this foxhole unsatisfied.QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 3, tel. (+48) 32 257 65 17. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 22:00. G­S­W iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife NAMASTE TRAVELLER’S CLUB Yet another great bar for Katowice’s beer aficionados. They offer a constantly fluctuating cast of different casks pumped out of 7 taps as well as over 80 bottles of tasty brews from around the world. This global philosophy applies to more than just the beer as this true travellers’ club organises weekly meetings where world travellers show slides of far off places and exotic faces. Every so often (check their Facebook events calendar) they host meetings with travel writers who regale the crowds with their thrilling tales or hawk their latest book. The atmosphere is always lively and exceedingly friendly so kick back, raise a brew and make a new friend or two.QJ‑3, ul. Jana III Sobieskiego 27, tel. (+48) 503 45 17 04, www.namaste.katowice.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 01:00. G OLD CUBAN Although it might sound like just a theme bar, Old Cuban is Katowice’s brightest new cocktail star. The experienced mixologists will help you navigate their vast rare rum selection and suggest a perfectly balanced cocktail just for you. Bacardi based cocktails are their bread and butter, but ye ole rum & coke is just the beginning. Order the signature Old Cuban cocktail and be transported to a Caribbean beach with it’s ideal sweet and sour notes with a silky smooth finish. They also have an arsenal of whisky, bourbon, vodka and gin on hand not to mention a fortress of fruit and mixers for whipping up any cocktail under the sun. The atmosphere is lively and laid back (ask about the bras on the walls) and the beautiful bar was built for extended sipping sessions.QD‑3, ul. Wojewódzka 26A, tel. (+48) 530 75 47 66. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. G­W PUB KONTYNUACJA It’s official, the beer gods have descended upon Katowice.

This super-sleek multi-tap bar is now in its second location just a stone’s throw from the new ‘Rynek’. The style and philosophy are similar to their old location with 16 taps and one pump pouring pints of the finest Polish and European craft micro-brews. The taps rotate on a daily - sometimes hourly - basis but you can always be sure to find the newest brews from Browar Podgórz, Browar Stu Mostów and Browar Artezan. Expect the bar to be packed with a healthy mix of hipsters, trend hoppers and beer geeks. So grab a chair and raise your glass in the air, because you ain’t going nowhere.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 8, tel. (+48) 668 52 58 25, www.kontynuacja-katowice.ontap.pl. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. 6­U­G­W UPOJENI Full disclosure: this writer has a serious soft spot for Polish new-wave multi-tap craft beer bistros that serve up tasty tapas and beautiful burgers which pair perfectly with the delectable nectar flowing from the pristine pipes. In other words, you had me at hello Upojeni. And the fact that this cosy yet modern two floor secluded bar also serves daily gourmet lunch specials means I have more than enough reasons to justify a return visit in the nearest of futures. iyp.me/polandblog

POLISH VODKA

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below.

WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, ambercoloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.

KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’

November 2017 - February 2018 47

Nightlife KATOWICE FOR BEER LOVERS

After a dozen or so hangovers (and extra trips to the shop for bog roll), Polish beer generally leaves one with an understanding of why vodka is so popular in Poland. Silesia has the honour of being home to the two worst offenders – Tyskie and Żywiec – which enjoy ubiquitous national distribution and sadly also bear the mantle of Polish beer abroad. Basically a diet of these two gets boring fast for anyone with a real affinity for beer.

What too often goes unrealised is that Poland actually has hundreds of independent micro-breweries that produce delicious beer. More and more bars in Katowice are popping up serving ambitious brews from tap and bottle. Some are even declaring it to be the year of beer!

Biała Małpa (p.43) has perhaps the largest selection of draft and bottled beers in Katowice and will even please the fairer sex with their offerings of enhanced beers (think berry beer, chocolate beer and lemon beer). They offer a constantly changing selection of craft beers from around the globe but with a specific emphasis on the many Polish micro-brews gaining prominence. Beer experts, buckle up!

It’s super trendy, but the beer in ul. Mariacka’s (D/E-4) Kato (p.46) is also super tasty. The selection of bottled micro-brews is always in flux but there are plenty to choose from; we recommend Magnus, a sweet dark beer from the Jagiełło Brewery in far eastern Poland.

If you’re looking for something more local, head to Kontynuacja (p.47) to try a draught from one of the many local micro-brewers that have popped up in the region in recent years. At either place you can try a brew from Kraftwerk - these electro pop piwo pioneers are concocting some of the best Silesian beer, if not best Polish beer around.

If you want to stack these national ales against their Czech counterparts make sure to stop into Hospoda (p.26) and immerse yourself in a sea of Czech suds from Kozel Dark to Rychtar to Radogast. If German Beer is your thing than head to the brand new Browariat (p.44) for a bucket of Bavaria’s finest brew. If it’s multitap you want, head to Upojeni (p.48) with their fine selction of craft beers. The last of the great new breed of beer pubs is Namaste Traveler’s Club (p.47) which has a solid offering of micro-brews on tap but perhaps the most impressive list of domestic and imported bottles in the city. Na zdrowie (‘to your health’); literally.

48 Katowice In Your Pocket

Come early, come often and I’ll see you at the bar! Seasonal menu always on offer, as is a lunch and/or a la carte menu.QC‑4, ul. Św. Jana 10 (entrance from the interior courtyard), tel. (+48) 535 07 03 62. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.

6­U­G­W ŻÓŁTE DRZWI Quality cocktail bars were one of the things Kato seriously lacked for a long time and sorely deserved. The last year has turned the trend around and now the city centre is bursting at the seams. The Yellow Door is the newest entry and it’s an instant classic. The exposed brick and tall wrap-around wood bar are the main features of this dark lit one room wonder.

But don’t let the size fool you as this place gets packed in the evenings and even hosts concerts and DJs on the weekends.

Try one of their bespoke cocktails on for size (whiskey sour all the way) or drop in during the day for quality coffee and cake. Classy and classic.QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 10, tel. (+48) 690 10 52 00. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00.

Closed Mon. T­6­U­E­G­W

WINE BARS BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP Hidden away down the same dark alleyway as City Pub, Winiarnia Burgundia features both a shop and bar in which to indulge one’s taste for the grape. By far the best of the city’s wine bars, find a slightly snobby albeit enjoyable and relaxed atmosphere. A really admirable selection of world wines and ciders for all tastes and budgets.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl.

Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. G­W

CLUBS BAVITTO In Katowice’s glittery club scene there are loads of posh places with flashy lasers and white leather sofas for the would be Ibiza crowd to splash their cash. Bavitto is a much welcomed weekend middle ground (open Thurs, Fri and Sat.) which looks and feels more like a bustling bar. But that’s just half of the story. Head into the right side of this two pronged party palace and you’ll find a second fully stocked bar and a packed dance floor where top DJs spin turbo-charged tunes till the early morn. They have the added bonus of being an erasmus and expat magnet so a bit of mingling in English is par for the course.QB‑5, Pl. Miarki 6, tel. (+48) 530 53 01 16. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 04:00. X­W COOLER CLUB & FOOD If by cooler you mean louder and more self aware, then this is the coolest joint in town, bro. Typical of most fancy fashion clubs we’ve finessed our way into the last few years, Cooler treads a familiar line of indulgent ornate extravagance and modern minimalism in violet, silver and black, with illuminated liquor shelves, fabric covered walls and original bricks. Small, without anywhere to escape the deafening hip-hop and r’n’b pop noise that carries throughout the iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife entire building and down the street on weekends, some (like ourselves) would be better suited to enjoy it in the early evening when it serves quite nicely as a sexy cocktail lounge and place for a lite bite. The club opens Fri & Sat, 21:00-05:00.

QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 20/1, tel. (+48) 508 24 91 98, www. coolerclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. G­W INQBATOR Hit them on a Saturday and you’ll struggle to find a better venue in town for electro sounds. As such it’s a highly charged crowd you’ll find staring into space with cartoon smiles while repetitive beats shoot fireworks into what is left of their brain. The walls quite literally drip with sweat, while the murky interiors look like they’ve been thrown together as an afterthought by a stoned student with time on his hands. Completely excellent.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 668 37 24 33, www.inq.pl. Open Fri 18:00 05:00 and Sat 20:00 - 06:00 only. X­W KLUB POMARAŃCZA Continuing the Katowice trend of mistaking a club for an airport, this mega-fun factory just upped the ante and went for a total redesign. Once you clear the metal detector, ample cover-charge and grabby security guards hit the massive dance and be prepared for total sensory overload.

The floor is beset with all manner of synchronized lighting effects, LED Screens, smoke machines and more lasers than the Death Star. Dancers wiggle away on platforms and perches, lovely ladies watch from the balconies above and couples cuddle in the plush booths all around. But this is just the start! There are a total of 3 dance floors, 6 bars, 2 VIP sections spread over 3 floors. They claim this is one of the most modern Dance Clubs in all of Central Europe and it’s hard to disagree.QA‑4, ul. Matejki 3, tel. (+48) 513 60 03 00, www.klubpomarancza.pl. Open 21:00 - 06:00, Wed, Thu 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­W KLUB PRIME Kato’s hottest new dance club has a seriously Prime location and is more than worth your time and attention. Opening up just on Friday and Saturdays, this expansive club offers a mix of industrial interiors, chill out spaces, vip lounge areas and two stocked bars. Their deft DJs spin a mix of techno and bass music bangers with just the right amount of Pop to pack the dance floor. They’re trying hard to make this the prime destination for all heat seeking weekend party peoples and judging from the lines at the door, all systems go go go!QD‑4, ul. Mielęckiego 10, tel. (+48) 883 99 53 73, www.klubprime.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00.

KRÓLESTWO (THE KINGDOM) This kingdom of sound and culinary vision is perched high in the eye of the city right in the middle of all the action. In just under a year this new restaurant and music venue has turned a lot of heads and made a lot of noise. You’ll want to immediately check their FB page to see what upcoming concerts are on as they regularly feature the best local, national and international touring acts and DJs. It is one of the biggest and nicest venues in the city with exceptional iyp.me/polandblog

sound and amazing views. By day make sure to stop by while you wander across the city as they have perhaps the best lunch specials in the city. Top marks!QC‑2, Rondo gen.

Ziętka 1, tel. (+48) 508 39 29 30, www.krolestwo.eu. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. 6­U­E­X­S­W MEGA CLUB Established in 1993 this venue is a dinosaur in clubbing years, though still manages to stand out as the Big Boss in terms of Katowice club options. Let the list of performers who have appeared here speaks for itself, with cult names like Smolik, Gus Gus, New Model Army and The Legendary Pink Dots all having taken the stage. Vast, and though some may accuse the interiors of lacking imagination, the parties and concerts that go off here are the stuff of legend. Years of experience have contributed to a smoothly run operation, with everything in place from a bite-yer-ears sound system to seriously impressive lighting. Check out their facebook page to see what’s on tap while you’re in town.QI‑2, ul. Żelazna 15, www.megaclub.pl. Open during events only, hours depend on concert schedule. U­E­X­W RAJZEFIBER (TRAVEL FEVER) There’s a new king in town and just months after lowering his drawbridge he already has legions of loyal subjects crashing his castle nightly. Rajzefiber has truly achieved a rare and almost impossible feat by successfully filling a huge gap in Katowice’s nightlife with serious style and enviable ease. No other club in town has thought to offer an ambitious lineup of great live music AND hot DJs plus offer a menu of quick bar food and rocking cocktails. Upon entering the recently expanded second floor club we had the feeling we’d been coming here for years. The place was totally packed and already jumping at 19:00 on a Saturday. When we came back at 23:00 there was a line 30 people deep waiting to get in! There’s a rising fever for Rajzefiber.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 23/3, tel. (+48) 884 90 51 68, www.rajzefiber.com. Open Fri, Sat only 18:00 - 05:00. X­W

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT QUEENS This well-regarded club features two bars, one wherein girls go-go dance on a table in the middle and it would be difficult to stand up from some of the seats without picking a stripper up on your shoulders. There’s also a Jacuzzi and a sauna and highly suggestive massage services available year round. Queens also seems to operate an escort service, making their girls, who have been charmingly described as “no pros, simply girls of next door, study or are housewives,” available for business and family functions, movie dates and birthdays (their suggestions). This could be the way to finally become the ‘cool uncle’ at the next family barbecue.Qul. Ceglarska 35, Gliwice (Ligota Zabrska), tel. (+48) 32 305 30 20, www. queensnightclub.pl. Open 12:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. X November 2017 - February 2018 49

Where once the land was potholed, there now stand architectural wonders. | © Alex Wiśniewski, courtesy of Katowice City Council

Katowice Sightseeing INDUSTRIALLY DESIGNED & THOROUGHLY MINED, THIS DYNAMIC CITY IS WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED

Essential Katowice

Christ the King Cathedral

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

Katowice, despite its architectural and cultural renaissance, cannot be described as a top tourist destination like its neighbours Kraków and Wrocław. However, the city, and indeed the entire Silesian Metropolis continues to steadily add interesting museums and attractions to a growing list of eclectic and downright odd sites that make this city absolutely unique. Nope, you won’t find a castle, or palaces, uh, no, no ancient ruins. No Old Town per say. But what you will find is a boatload of Industrial Tourism that will literally take you underground, and a host of cultural events in the UNESCO city of music. After years of languishing, Katowice has undergone a massive renovation and revitalization project that resulted in a literal face-lift and a heart transplant of the city centre. Though there is building work still going on here and there, we finally see the dawn of a new and improving Katowice.

Unlike other urban casualties (hello to our friends in Warsaw), the city can’t claim to have been beaten by the Ugly Stick during World War II. No, Katowice was born with that heirloom in its hand and the Nazis probably snatched

Spodek

Courtesy of Katowice City Council.

it from here as they rumbled east to the capital. And while the Soviets returned with it after the war, destroying many of the buildings on the Rynek in the 1950s to make room for their modern monuments to concrete, it was predestined that Katowice would never be belle of the ball. iyp.me/polandblog

A blue collar city to this day, Katowice and its neighbours in Upper Silesia were born into the working class, growing up during the industrial revolution and put to work in sooty mine shafts, factories and railway yards. The area’s history is inextricably entwined with the manufacture of coal and steel and the stacks, shafts, slag heaps and massive waves of migrants that followed the discovery of the region’s mineral resources. As such, any mention of tourism in the district is usually preceded by the word, ‘industrial.’ Indeed the derelict factories and foundries, blackened chimneys and abandoned maintenance yards of Silesia’s industrial boom represent the bulk of Silesia’s tourist offerings, and the region is ripe for renegade tourists eager to explore evidence of a bygone era. Those interested in industrial tourism are advised to get their hands on a copy of Silesia’s Industrial Monuments Route, which can be picked up free of charge in any Silesian tourist information office (C-4 & O-5), and while we’ve covered many of the entailed sites in this very guide, the region has plenty more to offer than we have space to include here.

The New Headquarters of the NOSPR

Photo by Bartek Barczyk

Katowice, for its part, has become a growing business and cultural centre filled with new venues, cafes, restaurant, pubs and clubs to match all tastes. Those seeking more conventional interpretations of the word attraction will find plenty of cleaned up 19th century architecture in the form of handsome townhouses in the city centre, particularly along ulica 3-go Maja between the Rynek (p.56, C-3) and Plac Wolności (p.55, A-3). If you’re looking for something older, such as churches, Christ the King Cathedral (p.52, B-6) is the country’s largest, although one should not forego the chance to see the charming St. Mary’s church (p.52, E-4) at the end of the pleasant ul. Mariacka. One of the best museums in southern Poland is the Silesian Museum (p.54, K/L-3), on the site of the former Katowice Coal Mine. Conventional charm has obviously never been a strength of Katowice, however, as best evidenced by the bonkers Spodek sport and concert arena (p.56, D-1). Yes, it’s historically always been the shaft (literally) for Katowice, and while being a tourist in this city may once have felt a bit like getting dressed for the theatre and ending up at a Board of Education meeting, things have definitely improved. We hope you enjoy the city for its oddities, and remember, next time you hear negative opinions expressed about Katowice, set the record straight.

November 2017 - February 2018 51

Katowice Sightseeing CHURCHES ST. MARY’S CHURCH Katowice’s oldest existing Catholic parish church was built from Silesian dolomite, not the usual red brick, between 1862 and 1870 to a design by the famous Breslau (Wrocław) architect Alexis Langer. Originally planned on a far grander scale than it was eventually built, the 43m-long, 31m-wide neo-Gothic building features an eye-catching, trademark Langer 71m octagonal tower and a feast of good things inside. The altar in the transept supposedly dates from the 15th century, whilst the wonderful stained glass windows on either side of the nave representing sin and virtue are the work of Adam Bunsch (1896-1969). The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament includes a likeness of Father Emil Szramek in traditional Silesian dress. Szramek was the parish priest from 1926 until his arrest by the Gestapo in April 1940. Sent to a number of concentration camps including Dachau, where he quickly became a spiritual leader for other incarcerated Silesian priests, he was murdered on January 13, 1942.QE‑4, Pl. ks. Emila Szramka 1, tel. (+48) 32 258 77 44, www.mariacki.katowice.pl. Open 08:30 - 18:30; No visiting during mass please.

TOURS PTTK KATOWICE Feeling a bit lost or uncertain about Katowice? Take a guided tour with an English, German or Frenchspeaking guide and get an inside perspective on what Katowice has to offer (sometimes you need a second opinion). Demand for the service being what it is, dropping by the office won’t do; ring PTTK to make an arrangement and you’ll probably make their day as well. Services available year round.QC‑4, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 253 03 62, www.pttk.katowice.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat 09:15 - 16:00. Closed Sun. SILESIATRIP.PL Silesia Trip is a useful and comprehensive way to comfortably explore much of the region around Katowice. Offering 24 hour pick-up services from both the Katowice and Kraków airports, Silesia Trip has a plethora of tours, locales, and sights included in their itineraries, including everyday trips to the Guido Mine, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Wieliczka Salt Mine, the historic silver mine in the Tarnów mountains, and theTyskie Brewery. Tours are available in English, French, Italian, Polish, Spanish and Russian and are targeted for those who have a particular interest in the history, culture and people of Eastern Silesia. They also offer traditional tours with an audio guide starting from their brand new headquarters, info point and souvenir shop on ul.

Mariacka. Pick up some sweet Silesia swag and Katowice related gadgets before or after your trip or tour.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 11, tel. (+48) 502 11 63 31, www. katowice-tours.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 52 Katowice In Your Pocket

St. Mary’s Church

CHRIST THE KING CATHEDRAL Building work began on Zygmunt Gawlik and Franciszek Mączyński’s impressive neo-Classical Cathedral on June 5, 1927 with the digging of a symbolic spade of dirt, although it wasn’t until October 30, 1955 that it was finally consecrated.

A series of minor hiccups including WWII and some typical interference from the post-war communist regime meant that there was no shortage of setbacks for arguably what’s the most beautiful building in the city and, somewhat surprisingly, the largest cathedral in Poland. Its first 12 years leading up to the outbreak of the war saw the walls go up and little else, with the end of hostilities heralding a new burst of activity numbering some six years and involving the arrest of the parish priest, the local bishops being thrown out of the diocese and a communist-approved priest brought in to supervise the building’s completion. The latter’s legacy to the Cathedral was his decision to alter the design of the dome, dropping it by some 38m from its original design and turning what promised to be a truly splendid looking church into something a little more compact and comical.

In 1957 the displaced bishops returned, and during the period 1962-65 the interior was adapted to the way it more or less appears today. Although somewhat plain, the interior is truly breathtaking. Of particular interest is St. Barbara’s Chapel on the left-hand side of the nave. The patron saint of miners, Gerard Grzywaczyk’s sculpture of Barbara overlooks an altar made from coal and a monument to lost miners. Hidden away above the large dome are five bells, of which the largest weighs in at a mammoth 3.5 tonnes. The monument of Pope John Paul II outside commemorates the late church leader’s visit to the Cathedral in June 1983, and a new chapel inside was recently consecrated in his name.

If you call in advance it’s also possible to take a tour with a guide around the Cathedral.QB‑6, ul. Plebiscytowa 49A, tel. (+48) 32 251 21 96, www.katedra.wiara.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00, No visiting during mass please. iyp.me/katowice

Katowice Sightseeing MONUMENTS JÓZEF PIŁSUDSKI The work of the Croatian sculptor Antun Augustinčić (19001979), most famously remembered for his Monument of Peace sculpture outside the UN headquarters in New York, the dashing statue of Poland’s greatest modern military hero dates from before WWII but didn’t make it to Poland until the collapse of Polish Communism, a system in which Piłsudski was strictly taboo. Shipped from its creator’s Croatian museum in 1990 and renovated before finally being placed where it is today in 1993, the statue sees our hero astride a stallion when it’s a well known fact he always favoured his mare, Kasztanka (Chestnut). Originally planned to form the centrepiece of a series of statues relating to the Silesian insurgents which never came to being, the monument’s sword vanished in 1994 and was later found in some nearby bushes by a bunch of nosy kids.

QD‑5, Pl. Chrobrego.

SILESIAN INSURGENTS’ MONUMENT Supposedly the largest and heaviest monument in Poland, this vast bronze edifice is one of Katowice’s most famous landmarks, commemorating the three post-WWI Polish armed uprisings against the German authorities of Upper Silesia in 1919, 1920 and 1921. The monument symbolizes the heroism and sacrifice of the insurgents with an enormous bronze wing for each uprising. Designed by Gustaw Zemła and erected on the site of the city’s Red Army cemetery in 1967, the monument was assembled from 350 parts and weighs a hulking 61 tonnes. The highest wing reaches 14 metres tall, making it one of the ‘tallest monuments in PL’ behind the 36m Monument of Christ the King in Świebodzin and the 32-metre high Wujek memorial cross on the other side of town (and probably a dozen other monuments in the country).

QC‑2, Al. Korfantego.

MUSEUMS KATOWICE HISTORICAL MUSEUM This outstanding museum showcasing some of the more interesting aspects of the life and times of the city and its people is divided into two main sections. You can wander the well thought-out rooms on three floors including a superb recreation of house interiors of the middle and upper classes of the city from 20, 50 and 100 years ago. The other main exhibit “Z dziejów Katowic 1299 - 1865” covers the breadth of the city’s early history before officialy being founded. Entrance to the exhibit is limited to 15 people every half an hour and all descriptions are in English and films have English subtitles. One of the best museums in southern Poland and soon to be even better. Temporary exhibit info can be found on the museum’s website: www. mhk.katowice.plQD‑5, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Tue free. N iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 53

Katowice Sightseeing SILESIAN MUSEUM

The grand opening of the brand new home of the Silesian Museum is perhaps the biggest of Katowice’s recent investment unveilings. The museum’s scope, quality of the permanent exhibitions and the architectural prowess of the newly adapted subterranean chambers are all equally impressive. Approaching the Silesian Museum from the city centre, the first visible element of the museum is the prominent mine shaft hoist tower of the former Katowice Coal Mine. There are dozens of such towers spread all over Silesia, many of which remain operational. This particular mine shaft hoisted its last load of black diamonds in 1999 when the entire mine complex was closed for good after operating for 176 years and hauling over 120 million tonnes of coal! Today, this impressive steel structure has been adapted into an elevator-accessible viewing tower which offers spectacular views of Katowice and other close-lying Silesian suburbs. The next striking feature you will notice are the large transparent glass buildings that cover the entire expanse of terrain. Their presence offers a thoroughly modern counterpoint to the 18th century historical buildings which make up the rest of the museum’s exhibition space. There are six main ‘buildings’ (both old and new) that make up the Silesian Museum campus, a few of which have yet to be opened to the public. Descending into the subterranean chambers of the Silesian Museum the impressive interiors open up before your eyes. The main museum is spread out over four underground levels and has a floor area of nearly 25,000 m², of which 6,000 m² is devoted to exhibition space (both permanent and temporary) - all of which has been adapted from the former tunnels, shafts and workshops of the former mine.QL‑3, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, www.muzeumslaskie.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł (for 3-10 people including seasonal entrance to the viewing platform), Tue free. Group tickets (10 or more) are 18/12zł per person. Seasonal viewing platform tickets without Musuem access but includes entrance to forge ans mechanical workshop: 6/4zł and family 16zł.

54 Katowice In Your Pocket

SILESIAN MUSEUM - THE GRAND HOTEL Housed inside a glorious neo-Renaissance turn of the century hotel, the former headquarters of the Silesian Museum (1984-2015) dates back to the 1920s. There are only temporary exhibitions now as the permanent collection has been moved to the new Silesian Museum headquarters at ul. T. Dobrowolskiego 1. The original Silesia Museum had actually been completed in 1939 however the beautiful and massive modernist building was destroyed in the war before the exhibitions were even installed. After the war the Silesian Museum and it’s remaining collections fought and sought to find a permanent home but political instability made it almost impossible. Finally in 1984 the Silesian Museum opened in the Grand Hotel, however, from the very start its tenure in this location was considered temporary. The relocation of the permanent collection to the new site down the road at the former Katowice Coal Mine was planned for fifteen years and took almost ten years to complete.QC‑3, Al. W. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket (3-10 people) 16zł. They now offer combined tickets for both Museum locations - 27/18zł, Group tickets (10+ people) 21/13zł per person, Family ticket 70zł. Group tickets only for The Grand Hotel 5/3zł (10+ people).

Silesian Museum - The Grand Hotel

photo M. Jędrzejowski.

PLACES OF INTEREST PLAC WOLNOŚCI Likely due to a lack of competition, this small oval of greenish pleasantry west of the train station stands out from Katowice’s urban tangle as one of the city’s more recognisable landmarks and orientation points.

From the first city plan in the 1860s, this square was designed as a main axis point and was already home to Kattowitz’s first Catholic church (later destroyed during the rapid, thoughtless expansion of the turn of the 20th century). Then known as ‘Wilhelmsplatz’, the square first sported a monument of Kaisers Wilhelm I and Frederic III looking rather buddy-buddy atop a large pedastal. After Katowice’s post-WWI promotion to capital of the autonomous now-Polish province of Silesia, hero of the Silesian Uprisings, Wojciech Korfanty, and city president Stanisław Wojciechowski unveiled the iyp.me/katowice

Katowice Sightseeing

Plac Wolności

Jan Mehlich, CC-BY-SA-3.0

memorial Tomb of the Unknown Insurgent in 1923. The space’s new identity as ‘Freedom Square’ soon became ironic, however, when that memorial was replaced with a monument of two thuggish tommy-gun wielding Red Army soldiers standing atop a truly hideous concrete pedestal which was finally removed in 2014 after years of protests. Just east of where the monument used to stand you’ll find a small and rather ugly fountain, and the square is also surrounded by several unremarkable buildings, with the exception of the monumental neo-Renaissance Goldstein Palace at number 12A. Built in 1875, this building formerly housed the Chamber of Commerce, becoming the local branch of the dubious Polish-Soviet Friendship Association after WWII. Having most recently seen life as a restaurant, the Goldstein House has been repossessed by the city and currently functions as the City Civil Affairs Office.QA‑3.

CLOUD SCRAPER ‘Flying Saucer’ and ‘Cloud Scraper’: Katowice’s landmarks may be lacking a bit of colour but they certainly have colourful names. Drapacz Chmur is another local icon whose beauty and relevance may have faded, but perhaps no building more represents the optimism of Katowice’s autonomous inter-war years. Although unimpressive by today’s standards and hardly even able to get its chin above the neighbours, this was the second skyscraper built in Poland. The work of architect Tadeusz Kozłowski and engineer Stefan Bryła, the structure was completed in 1934 following five years of work. Measuring 60 metres in height, it remained the tallest building in Poland until 1955 when it was surpassed by Warsaw’s monstrous Palace of Culture and Science. The steel-framed building was touted as 17 storeys (counting its three subterranean levels), and was one of the first in the country equipped with garbage chutes. As the tallest thing in town Cloud Scraper was used as a sniper station during the short-lived defence of Katowice against Nazi occupation. Though built during an era when decent design sense still prevailed, Cloud Scraper was well ahead of its time and today stands inconspicuously as a prime example of functionalist architecture.QA‑5, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 15. iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 55

Katowice Sightseeing

Photo by Bartek Barczyk

POLISH NATIONAL RADIO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA In 2014 Katowice celebrated the unveiling of it’s newest architectural and cultural jewel - the new headquarters of the NOSPR (The Polish National Radio Orchestra). Not only is this one of the more striking and architecturally astonishing buildings to be built in Poland in recent years, it is also one of the most acoustically pristine performance halls in all of Europe. To perfect the pin drop precision of the main hall’s acoustics, the Katowice based Architecture firm Konior collaborated with Yasushisa Toyota - founder of the Japanese Acoustics solutions company Nagata Acoustics (creators of the Walt Disney Hall in Los Angeles among others). Their collaboration has resulted in a sonically rich and truly visually stunning performance hall that can seat over 1,800 people with no obstructed views or muffled music.

The main concert hall is also equipped with cutting edge technology to both broadcast concerts live and record multi track albums live. This is truly a building fitting of Poland’s finest orchestra and is set to solidify Katowice’s place in the classical music world. Check NOSPR’s website for concert tickets or plan your next trip to Katowice around a trip to this absolute shrine of a Symphony Hall.QD‑2, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, www.nospr.org.pl.

INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS CENTRE The newest architectural jewel in Katowice’s eclectic crown and this one comes with rooftop grass carpeting (keep off the grass!). And like any good carpet, it really ties the proverbial ‘room’ together (ie the city centre) and it does the seemingly impossible by forming a highly functional and even elegant emerald ‘bridge’ between the socialist Sci-Fi Spodek and the more modernist NOSPR building.

This huge multipurpose facility is more than just its mossy exterior though. With the capacity to accommodate 15,000 visitors, coupled with the Spodek Arena next door, it is one of the largest venues in Poland for conferences, exhibitions, trade fairs and of course sporting events. Check our Culture and Events section or log onto their website for the latest upcoming events in, on and around this breathtaking new facility. .QD‑1, Pl. Sławika i Antalla 1, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.mckkatowice.pl.

RYNEK Until recently, one could easily be forgiven for standing in the middle of the market square and trying to find the market square. The construction works finished and the snazzy new Rynek 2.0 is complete with a flowing river, deck chairs and trees. Before the massive overhaul (and we mean massive!), Katowice’s ‘Rynek’ was basically a large traffic roundabout and tram stop surrounded by a faded collection of mismatched buildings in architectural styles that had mostly fallen out of favour, if they ever engendered any enthusiasm to begin with. For years the

TOURIST INFORMATION CITY INFORMATION OFFICE With a several-storey, blinking blue and yellow neon sign, Katowice’s City Information Office is hard to miss and isn’t it just downright adorable to see them trying so hard? The super-friendly staff can offer time-killing suggestions in English or German and they stock a range of materials about the many things you’ll probably never see or do across Silesia. Free maps and lots of information on daily cultural events, as well as three new computers.QC‑4, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 259 38 08, www.katowice.eu. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

56 Katowice In Your Pocket

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Katowice Sightseeing city has known that turning its market square into, you know, an actual market square, would be a crucial step toward becoming a respectable Polish city. A plan to modernise and pedestrianise the Rynek was put in place as far back as 2008. The first step was modernising the Sovietera monstrosity at ul. Młyńska that uglied up an entire block of the Rynek and they elegantly transformed it into the new modern City Hall.QC‑3/4.

SILESIAN PARLIAMENT A standing testament to Katowice’s short-lived ‘golden age,’ the Silesian Parliament complex covers an entire city block between Jagiellońska, Reymonta, Ligonia and Lompy streets and was the largest structure in PL before Stalin ‘gifted’ Warsaw with a certain monstrosity. Completed in 1929, the Parliament complex served as the governing seat of Silesia after the province was inexplicably granted autonomy following WWI. Unfortunately Hitler failed to observe the region’s sovereignty when he reclaimed it for the Reich after a short 19 years of self-government. After WWII, the new Polish government stripped Silesia of its prestige, confused by how Katowice could possibly have ever been considered the second capital of PL. Today the Parliament buildings house the offices of the Silesian Voivodeship, though many have changed function and more still are solely occupied by wistful memories of bygone days.QD‑5/6, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego.

SPODEK In 1958 the Association of Polish Architects ran a competition to design a new stadium in Katowice. Won by a Warsaw company and designed by Maciej Gintowt and Maciej Krasiński, the resulting Wojewódzka Hala Widowiskowo-Sportowa w Katowicach (translating something like ‘Katowice Province Spectator & Sports Arena’) was built in stages between 1964 and 1971, and at 246,624 square metres is the one of the largest, certainly one of the strangest and, to some, the most beautiful piece of reinforced concrete in Poland. Nicknamed ‘Latający Spodek’ (Flying Saucer) the building was originally going to be built in Silesia Park but because of its avant-garde appearance finally landed in the city centre. Holding 11,000 people part of the building was in use in 1969, though the grand opening only took place on May 9, 1971. The reason for this delay was simple – in their wisdom the designers had picked a landsite suffering ‘medium mine damage’.

That meant the possibility of cave-ins and collapse so the building was road-tested by 3,500 stamping (and dare we say it, nervous) soldiers. Given the thumbs-up by equally relieved engineers the building has been inspiring and amusing people ever since. A popular sporting venue, Spodek is also Katowice’s number one place for international concerts, having hosted a disparate collection of stars including Metallica and Depeche Mode. Today it also houses the Diament Spodek Hotel, and according to urban legend, the classic tune from Spielberg’s ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ plays every time the building’s lights go on.QD‑1, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.spodekkatowice.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 57

Nikiszowiec. Courtesy of Katowice City Council.

Silesian Suburbs Prospective foreign travellers putting together their Polish tourist itineraries have a tendency to regard Katowice and the greater Silesian Metropolis surrounding it as an acne-scarred unwanted stepchild. However, what few people know is that this is one of the most dynamically developing regions in all of Poland with a lot to offer the open minded tourist, businessman and post-industrial enthusiast alike. This section takes you on a guided tour of Katowice’s most interesting old districts of Nikiszowiec and Giszowiec, where plush greenery meets industrial brick buildings.

58 Katowice In Your Pocket

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Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec NIKISZOWIEC The former workers’ district of Nikiszowiec is home to some highly unique early 20th century architecture as well as an excellent modern art gallery, a magnificent church and a few additional offbeat attractions. This forgotten attempt at plebeian paradise is earmarked on Silesia’s ‘Industrial Monuments Route’(available at all Silesian tourist information offices) and offers intrepid visitors a confounding, yet fascinating glimpse at a foregone age. While not long ago a walk around the neighbourhood may have been a dicey prospect, cafes and culture are now beginning to creep into this part of town and you’re no longer likely to be the only tourist prowling around. Perfect for a photo essay, charge up your camera battery and off you go.

Built between 1908 and 1912 to house workers in the backyard of their place of employment – the large smokechurning Wieczorek (formerly ‘Giesche’) coal mine – the enclosed residential complex of Nikiszowiec is composed of six compact four-sided three-storey blocks with inner courtyards. Distinguished by its uniformity of style – red brick buildings accented with red-painted windowframing, and narrow streets joined by handsome arcades – the neighbourhood was designed by Georg and Emil Zillman of Berlin-Charlottenburg to be a completely self-sufficient community for 1,000 workers with a school, hospital, police station, post office, swimming pool, bakery and church.

Thanks to WWI and the subsequent Silesian Uprisings – during which time Nikiszowiec saw fierce fighting, and was afterwards incorporated into Poland – St. Anne’s Church (Pl. Wyzwolenia 21) wasn’t able to be finished until 1927, but became the crowning glory of the neighbourhood as soon as it was. Though it would ironically seem to be a socialist planners’ wet dream, Nikiszowiec actually makes a happy, handsome departure from downtown Katowice and has become a prized location for amateur photographers and budding filmmakers due to the fact that it has remained virtually unchanged since the Second World War. City marketers have also recognised the district’s uniqueness with increasing efforts to draw tourist attention to the area and a long campaign afoot to fasten Nikiszowiec to the UNESCO Heritage List. Though the district is generally safe to wander, you should still exercise sensible precautions about where you stick both your nose and that fancy new digital camera; and who you do it in front of. What to See Begin your adventure by hopping a bus to the Wilson

GETTING TO NIKISZOWIEC Only 8km/15mins from the Katowice city centre, getting to Nikiszowiec is simple: We recommend catching bus 30 from Al. Korfantego in front of the Katowice Hotel (C-3); the more direct and straightforward of the three routes, this also allows you to get off right at the stop named ‘Nikiszowiec Szyb Wilson’. Within Zone 1 of Katowice’s public transport network, passengers only need a normal 3,20zł fare ticket. iyp.me/polandblog

The rosy Post Office in Nikoszowiec

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

Shaft Gallery. From the Wilson Gallery it is a short eight minute walk (or one bus stop) down ul. Szopienicka into Nikiszowiec proper; you’ll know it by its uniquely uniform architecture, gruesome water tower, leering smokestacks and the church spire marking its centre. Make a left onto ul. Zofii Nałkowskiej (towards Eurohotel and the ice rink complex) and then your first right to officially enter the district on ul. Rymarska and you’ll pass the Tourist Information Office inside the Industrial Ethnography Museum - a recently unveiled branch of the Katowice Historical Museum at number 4. Here you can pick up a handy free map as well as other information about the district. The museum illustrates the everyday lives of the region’s miners and other blue-collar folks through a series of ethnographic exhibits, including an interesting gallery of painting by Nikiszowiec’s renowned Janowska Group, and shouldn’t be missed.

WILSON SHAFT GALLERY Just north of the centre of Nikiszowiec (3km by official measure), this seemingly obscure and certainly under appreciated modern art gallery is arguably Katowice’s best art space and one of the primary highlights of a trip to Nikiszowiec. Located in the pithead building and bathhouse of the old Wilson shaft of the Wieczorek mine, the buildings now occupied by the gallery date back to 1918, and were designed by the same Zillman brother tandem behind the Nikiszowiec housing district. The dilapidated mineshaft, where excavations began back in 1864, can still be seen in glorious ruin behind the gallery buildings, having ceased operation in 1997. Taken over by the ‘Pro Inwest’ company and adapted into exhibition and office spaces, the area around the Wilson shaft is now filled with brightly-painted outdoor sculptures in sharp contrast to the industrial surroundings, as well as a muraled entrance wall full of colourful pop culture icons (making it hard to miss). Not only is it admission free but the mini-buffet is a great option for breakfast or lunch (Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00).

To get there jump off bus 30 or 109 at the ‘Nikiszowiec Szyb Wilson’ stop on ul. Szopienicka.QO‑4, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, www.szybwilson. org. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

November 2017 - February 2018 59

Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec INDUSTRIAL ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM Located in Nikiszowiec, this branch of the Katowice Historical Museum is unique in its emphasis on ethnography and folk culture, approaching the topic from an urban, rather than rural, perspective. A collection of artefacts and cultural assets tells the everyday stories of Upper Silesia’s working class (primarily miners) from the period of early industrial development (mid-19th century) to the 1960s. More specifically you’ll see evidence of how this large demographic has lived, worked and celebrated over the years through exhibits of clothing, ceremonial costumes, tools, household items, religious objects and art. They also have three permanent exhibitions on display.

The first is devoted to the Janowska Group - a collection of Nikiszowiec miners including Teofil Ociepka, Paweł Wróbel, Erwin Sówka and Ewald Gawlik (more of Gawlik’s work can be seen in two Giszowiec galleries) who gained renown for their ‘naive’ painting. Another exhibit is a replication of a typical Nikiszowiec worker’s house. The final exhibit goes even deeper and delves into the various laundering techniques used in the district’s heyday (it’s more interesting than it sounds and has English titles). The helpful Nikiszowiec tourist info centre is also in the same building.QO‑5, ul. Rymarska 4 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 353 95 59, www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł.Tue free. T­U­N ST. ANNE’S CHURCH A welcome diversion from the smokestacks dominating the roofline of the district’s other side, this magnificent building incorporates Baroque design with two bell towers and a timepieced steeple, while blending into its surroundings without any of the ghastly and gratuitous exterior decoration associated with the style; make sure you take a stroll down ul. Św. Anny for the most photogenic views. If you’re lucky enough to get inside, take notice of

TOURIST INFORMATION NIKISZOWIEC INFORMATION OFFICE Located inside the Industrial Ethnography Museum, this should be the first port of call for anyone on a self-guided tour of Nikiszowiec. Here you can pick up some souvenirs along with a handy free map of the district and get other helpful information about what to see and tips on how to get around. They have free audioguides (Polish, English and German) available to take while walking around Nikoszowiec (just show a valid ID and leave a 50zł deposit). The museum exhibits are also fascinating if you have the time and the free wi-fi is reason enough to linger a little longer.QO‑5, ul. Rymarska 4 (Industrial Ethnography Museum, Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 255 14 80, www.katowice. eu. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Sat 11:00 - 14:30. Closed Mon, Sun. 60 Katowice In Your Pocket

St Anne’s watches over Nikiszowiec

the amazing 5,350 pipe organ and highly ornate Zillman chandelier. Please be respectful though and no visiting during masses.QO‑5, Pl. Wyzwolenia 21 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 356 96 22, www.sw-anna.wiara.org.pl.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please.

GISZOWIEC While Nikiszowiec is a refreshing, at times fascinating, highly photogenic adventure out of downtown Katowice, we can’t pretend to promote the same thing about its fraternal twin Giszowiec. While equally unique and unexpected, unlike Nikiszowiec, Giszowiec simply isn’t what it once was. That’s not to say there aren’t a few places of note, however, if you are rushed for time and not sure which to visit, we’d recommend Nikiszowiec over Giszowiec. Another workers’ colony from the same sibling pair behind Nikiszowiec, in the case of Giszowiec, the Zillmans took a completely different conceptual approach, designing an ideal ‘garden city’ for local miners based on the ideas of famous British urban planner Ebenezer Howard. Modelled on rural English cottages, the original dwellings of Giszowiec are low, freestanding, sloped roof houses surrounded by garden plots. Built between 1906 and 1910, the neighbourhood was arranged as a web of streets extending from Plac Pod Lipami – the central square surrounded by public buildings, shops, a restaurant, school and tavern. The project included a public laundry, a women’s bathhouse, theatre, quarantine barracks for the diseased, a prison and a strict set of guidelines to ensure the precious ‘English village’ atmosphere wouldn’t be lost; these included statutes governing everything from which garden plants could be grown to which animals could be kept.

Possession of a goat, for instance, would be enough to see you expelled from this Utopian colony. Originally built for workers at the ‘Wieczorek’ coal mine, when the new ‘Staszic’ coal mine opened nearby in 1964 additional dwellings had to be provided and the minds of the day iyp.me/katowice

Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec decided to demolish their ideal ‘garden city’ in favour of ten-storey apartment blocks fashioned out of pre-cast concrete slabs (as you do). The result was the labyrinth of hideous tower blocks you see when you arrive at Giszowiec today. In 1978 the destruction was stopped when some clever conservator decided to try and enter the urban structure of Giszowiec into the Registry of Historic Places; he succeeded, but only after two-thirds of the original buildings had been demolished, the charm of the remaining third being utterly overshadowed by the soulless new buildings surrounding them. As such, a trip to Giszowiec today entails steeling your stomach through the maze of concrete monoliths at its northern edge in order to reach the centre square where you’ll find the Municipal Cultural Centre (Pl. Pod Lipami 1, open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun) and Dworek Pod Lipami restaurant (food?!) sharing the main building, as well as the Gawlikówka - a small gallery dedicated to the art of late native folk painter Ewald Gawlik. En route you’ll pass a few of the original cottage dwellings, and while we’ll admit they’re charming, if you’ve ever seen a rural residential neighbourhood during your lifetime, there’s not a whole lot to remark about them (“O look, this one has flowers. O look, this one looks just like that one!”). Undoubtedly the most interesting building in the area is the old schoolhouse at Pl. Pod Lipami 2, which still functions as a kindergarten. With a metal stag head and cross (Jagermeister, anyone?) adorning the clock-tower and yard full of playground equipment, the building possesses a spooky evocative power, particularly at nightfall when the clock-face suddenly becomes as luminous as a full moon.

Tower blocks loom ominously in Giszowiec

The afore-mentioned Gawlikówka at Plac Pod Lipami 3 is also worth a quick visit; if Gawlik’s canvases of rural Silesian life capture your interest, here you can pick up a map of all the places you’ll find them hidden in the district. All told, Giszowiec still captures some small town charm, despite being a shadow of what it must have been. If you enjoy the small pleasures of being a stranger in a strange land, an excursion out to these two historic labour communities might just be the bizarre highlight of your time in Silesia. iyp.me/polandblog

EAT & DRINK CAFE BYFYJ This is the heart and soul of Nikiszowiec. Grab a table inside the bright white and soft light interior. The friendly waitstaff will take it from there and catch you up on all the savoury and sweet quiches, cakes, tarts, pizzas and daily lunch specials. Don’t overlook the beverages because they serve up some of the best coffee drinks around, not to mention organic juices, cool-colas, beers (low alko % as well) and prosecco.

QO‑5, ul. Krawczyka 5 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 696 73 08 01, www.piekarniamichalski.pl. Open 09:00 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. T­6­ U­G­S­W DWOREK POD LIPAMI This majestic manor specializes in large banquets, conferences, outdoor parties and weddings fit for a king. The menu is filled with Silesian specialties, classic Polish dishes and International fine dining staples. How about escargot and steak tartare to start things off followed by roast pork knuckle and beef roulade?! If you’re looking to be the host with the most, bring your guests to the best.QN‑7, Pl. Pod Lipami 1 (Giszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 793 95 51, www.dworekpodlipami. katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 22:00. (20-45zł). U­G­S GALERIA RIKSZA PUB This ramshackle bar/antique shop/time portal in Nikiszowiec should not be missed. With trinkets and treasures stashed everywhere in this makeshift barn (including the roof ), you’ll need a few drinks to take it all in. Stick around for some grilled meats or Silesian treats (sour soup, wodzionka or Silesian bigos!) with plenty of bevvies to wash it all down with. Niki at night means old-school Silesian hoe-downs are bound to go down here. Three thumbs up.QO‑5, ul. Zamkowa 2 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 515 35 61 10, www. galeriarikszapub.blogspot.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

They organise tours around Nikiszowiec by electric cart (max. 6 people) or rickshaw for 10zł per person.

Also you can rent a bike for 5zł/hr. U­G­W ZILLMANN TEA & COFFEE This sophisticated cafe and drink bar brings a bit of class to Niki’s central square. The exposed brick and dark wood interiors correspond swimmingly to the hushed and jazzy atmosphere. Whether you stop in for a morning cappuccino and cake or you slip in to sip a local microbrew in the afternoon, Zillman will accommodate you quite nicely. Classy glass and shiny brass for the working class.QO‑5, Pl. Wyzwolenia 3/1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 703 48 37, www. zillmanncoffee.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. G­S­W November 2017 - February 2018 61

Tychy

Tyskie Brewery | Photo By Kompania Piwowarska SA

Although the ubiquitous Tyskie beer has become one of the most recognisable Polish exports (not to mention the reigning king of domestic brews for almost 200 years), few visitors to Poland realise its name is actually derived from the very Silesian town it has been brewed in since the 17th century: Tychy. This now-thriving Silesian suburb is located a mere 20km south of Katowice and is well-connected to the Katowice mothership. Although it isn’t as close to, nor as expansive as some of Silesia’s other urban centres, Tychy has a lot to offer curious day-trippers, potential investors and vacationers alike.

The rather curious Polish name of Tychy (German ‘Tichau’) is derived from the Polish word cichy or ‘quiet.’ Tychy was indeed nothing more than a sleepy village from the time it first appeared on a medieval map in the mid-15th

GETTING TO TYCHY Tychy is well connected to Katowice by Silesian rail.

Trains leave for Tychy every 20-30 minutes from Katowice central train station and the journey takes around 25 minutes, with a cost of only 6zł. If you are looking to get to either the Tyskie Brewery or Obywatelskie Brewery make sure to get off at the TYCHY train station. If you are looking to get to Lake Paprocanskie or any of the hotels in the centre (Hotel Tychy, Hotel Piramida) make sure you get off at TYCHY LODOWISKO station. If you are planning to come by car head south from Katowice on the E75 and drive about 20 minutes until you reach Tychy.

62 Katowice In Your Pocket

century until well into the 17th century. It was then that the lords of beer arrived and deemed this land worthy to be brewed upon (they were literally lords as well). And thus the Browar Książęcy [K’shown’zhen-tse] began its illustrious 400 year mission to provide beer to the huddled masses (ok, mostly just for themselves at the beginning).

As the brewery grew, so did Tychy. By the time of German occupation during WWII, Tyskie had grown to be the biggest brewery of its kind in Europe. Operations resumed after the war, and large scale investment by the Polish State (The Party liked to drink as well) ensured that the Tyskie empire continued to expand during Communism.

This is also when Tychy started to first become known as somewhat of a socialist workers’ paradise. The massive workforce employed at the brewery were treated relatively well in the 60’s and 70’s; sporting complexes were built, and a beach and docks constructed on the bucolic Lake Paprocany (Jeziora Paprocańskie).

To find out more about the city’s beer-entwined history visit the Tyskie Brewery which also houses the local City Museum.

Modern day Tychy is of course still tied to its long and storied brewing tradition as the Tyskie Brewery continues to pump out millions of hectolitres of beer a year and now exports all over the world. Tychy itself has also remained a destination for both vacationers and beer lovers. Lake Paprocany offers endless fun for amateur and professional sailors, swimmers and sun bathers.

Most recently the city broke ground on what will be the biggest year-round Water Park Complex in all of Poland. The city also has a full cultural calendar so plan your trip accordingly. iyp.me/katowice

Tychy SIGHTSEEING BROWAR OBYWATELSKI This is one of the most dynamic and rapidly developing spaces in all of Silesia and is a model for the post-industrial potential of the region as a whole. The brewery was opened in 1897 by Polish-Jewish businessmen and until WWI it grew steadily in stature and quickly became a competitor to Browar Tyskie, the biggest brewery in Europe at the time. Tyskie did the only reasonable thing and bought out Obywatelskie in 1918. The brewery continued pumping out millions of hectolitres of Poland’s leading lager until the last production facility was shut down in 1999. Since then, the current owners of the brewery have been slowly renovating the buildings on the premises and turning them into a meeting place for business, recreation, dining and the arts. The Con Amore restaurant is the beating heart, but the much larger Industrialna conference centre and concert hall is becoming more and more popular for regional events. The expansive courtyard is used during the yearly Industriada Festival in June and also hosts the impressive 3D Mapping Festival every September. They have finished renovating most of the other historic buildings on site and they will soon be transformed into one of the most modern Business and Technology offices in all of Silesia and employ hundreds if not thousands of workers. Tours of the complex are available by request and we suggest you come make a day/or a night of it.Qul. Browarowa 7, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 323 00 20, www.browarobywatelski.pl. Admission free.

PROMNICE HUNTING LODGE One of Silesia’s best kept secrets seemingly since its creation, this absolutely stunning hunting lodge has discreetly passed the centuries overlooking a picturesque lake in the middle of a dense forest, down a dirt road 30km south of Katowice, between Tychy and Pszczyna. Though hardly a challenge to visit for anyone with a car, Promnice’s relatively remote location has helped ensure the survival of one of the area’s most unique, unexpected and astoundingly beautiful architectural monuments. Essentially a small castle, this

English neo-Gothic ‘hunting lodge’ was built in 1868 when the land fell to Herzog von Pless, holder of the title ‘Master of the Emperor’s Hunt’ in the Prussian Empire, which occupied the area at that time. Closely connected to the Prussian court in Berlin, von Pless built the immaculate lodge to host grand hunting parties in the surrounding forests, which were attended by rulers from all over Europe, including Emperor Wilhelm I and Tsar Alexander II. Bison from Białowieża forest were even brought to the area to make the regal outings more exotic and prestigious. Almost unaltered since the von Pless dynasty passed into oblivion in 1945, the sumptuous interiors are densely adorned with all manner of mounted beasts, rifles, weaponry and royal hunting regalia, original period furnishings, gorgeously carved wainscoting, English wallpapers and a plethora of oil paintings depicting hunting scenes. The German-influenced exterior features a tower embellished with stag heads, decorative timber framing, stained-glass windows, and wooden balconies. Aesthetically, Promnice is unlike anything else in Silesia and its incredibly scenic location on Paprocańskie Lake surrounded by forests full of hiking and biking trails makes it a great place to unwind as well as take photos. Today this historic place is open to the public as a hotel and restaurant. Walk-ins are welcome in the restaurant when private functions aren’t taking place, and we highly recommend booking one of the apartments if you’re looking for a romantic weekend getaway. In either case it’s wise to call ahead and announce your intention to visit, which we guarantee you won’t regret.QZameczek Myśliwski Promnice, tel. (+48) 32 219 46 78, www.promnice.pl.

EAT & DRINK W MIĘDZYCZASIE There isn’t much this action packed place doesn’t do, and do well. Whether it’s masquerading by day as a comfy cafe with killer coffee and cake combos or transforming into a bustling bistro and pizzeria in the afternoon and then finishing off the night as a cocktail bar and lounge.

Lest we not forget they also are a top notch cake shop where you can get delicious ready made cakes or special ordered designs any day of the week. Speaking of which, if you happen to be looking for a venue for your kid’s birthday or a business event, there is no better place to cater to your needs in all of Silesia.Qul. Kościuszki 19, Tychy, tel. (+48) 534 28 16 38, www.wmiedzyczasie. tychy.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (2040zł). T­6­U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 63

Tychy MUSEUM OF THE DUKE’S BREWERY IN TYCHY The Tyskie Brewery has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally German-owned, today Poland’s most famous brewery produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually, and 13 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager - Poland’s bestselling beer. The enormous historical brewing complex is one of Silesia’s architectural marvels, much of which is open to the public for guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a humorous and informative English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire modern production process and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning in the Browarium (Brewery Museum). Housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic former Evangelical church built in 1902, this rather superb space combines modernity and tradition across several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia.

A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery through the ages. Next your guide takes you through parts of the production plant, starting from the Old Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside them. Highlights include the saucy tales from the so-called ‘Bachelors’ Quarters,’ a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes with a tasting session in the on-site pub. Tours are available in in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech, Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear what that might sound like), and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20zł, take the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, and learn how to bring a full bouquet of flavours and fragrances out of beer over the course of workshops and tastings with a beer expert.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.zwiedzbrowar.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun, Last entrance 3 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 30/25zł.

For groups of 20 or more it’s 28zł per persons.

WATER PARK To date, Tychy, a city of 120,000 people only has one public swimming pool. As of late 2017, this is set to change with the opening of a new water park in the city. ‘Wodny Park Tychy’ will consists of many water attractions, but will also contain a fitness club and a spa and wellness centre, consisting of Japanese rock saunas (Gabonyoku), floating pods, which block out exterior sensations, leaving you calm and relaxed, and finally, balneotherapy tubs. Check in on their website and Facebook pages for the latest information.Qul. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego, tel. (+48) 32 325 72 35, www.parkwodnytychy.pl.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 64 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

Auschwitz

The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate. | © noel moore, Dollar Photo Club

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself.

Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps iyp.me/polandblog

spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern.

As such, we believe everyone should visit.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide.

Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past.

All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it.

If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (April - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before 10:00 or November 2017 - February 2018 65

Auschwitz GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

after 16:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free on your own. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online), but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish; tours in other languages can also be arranged in advance through the website.

The town of Oświęcim lies 33km south-east of Katowice and there are several ways of getting there, though the easiest may be just signing on for an organised tour through a local company like Silesia Trip (p.52). Direct trains go every couple of hours from Katowice central station and there are numerous bus options both big and small.

Buses (e.g. Bryl & Wójcik) leave frequently from Katowice’s main bus station (B-2, ul. Skargi 1) every day starting at 8:40. A one way ticket costs about 9-20zł with the journey taking 60-70mins (prices and times depend on the company). The bus makes several stops along the way, and most weekday buses will drop you off at the Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22), which is 1.5km away. From there hop on local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 to make the short trip to the museum; you can purchase the 2.70zł fare from one of the nearby kiosks.

Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau are located 3km apart (with the train station strategically between them).

Free museum buses shuttle visitors between the two parts of the camp every 20 minutes in the morning until noon, and every 10 minutes from roughly 12:00 - 15:00, then there are the last buses around 16.00 (check upon arrival for schedule). Alternatively, catch a cab for a rich 15zł.

To get back to Katowice, you need to catch a bus from the Oświęcim train station. Again, local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 make the trip from Auschwitz I to the train station for 2.70zł. Buses from there back to Katowice are frequent, but the last one leaves at 17:27 Mon-Sun.

Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows with different designations, and excessive signage that is unclear or contradicts itself. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, and do not yet have tickets, you must first visit the white Info box in the parking lot in front of the museum to get tickets before then queuing inside for the desk marked ‘Individual Guests.’ Upon navigating the scrum and being given headphones, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau.

ALSO IN OŚWIĘCIM OŚWIĘCIM JEWISH MUSEUM & SYNAGOGUE If you have more time to spend in Oświęcim, head to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving in the centre of Oświęcim) for more information on the town’s Jewish heritage, including a permanent exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II. Located near Oświęcim’s market square 3km from the Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored programmes for those plan their visits in advance, and there’s a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 70 02, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 15zł, kids 6 and under free.

66 Katowice In Your Pocket

Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast.

After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum).

The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours.

Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz IIBirkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose.Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau open in October 07:30 - 17:00, in November 07:30 - 15:00. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps, plus the film, costs 45/35zł. Tours for groups range from 330-750zł depending on size of group and type of tour. Official guidebook 5-10zł.

Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free, but the film costs 4/3zł. iyp.me/katowice

Auschwitz The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory of the Roma (gypsy) people who perished.

The tour concludes with the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.

Zyklon B.

Photo by Alana de Haan

AUSCHWITZ I Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (‘Work Makes You Free’) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind the world’s most notorious concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine.

Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most affectingly, children’s shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs, artists’ drawings and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.

Block 11, otherwise known as ‘The Death Block’, is arguably the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the ‘Wall of Death’ - against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS - has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic cellars of Block 11 the Nazi’s conducted their experiments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maksymilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny ‘standing cells’ measuring 90 x 90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite amounts of time – remain intact. iyp.me/polandblog

AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II – Birkenau, however it’s here that the impact of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubberstamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held there in 1944.

The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers having been dynamited and living quarters levelled.

Climb the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the complex’s size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the penal colony and also the women’s camp.

At the far end of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander and reflect on their own before catching the return bus to Auschwitz I.

Photo by Alana de Haan; alanacdehaan.com

November 2017 - February 2018 67

Leisure

Jump, bounce and jump some more at Jumpcity (p.69)

Though it wouldn’t appear so on first, second or third glance, Katowice and the surrounding areas possess a startling number of recreational areas and leisure opportunities.

Though known more for its industrial ‘attractions’ and poor air quality than its nature conservation record, Silesia has some of the largest urban green spaces, not only in Poland, but all of Europe. Chorzów’s Silesia Park is a veritable leisure section’s worth of activities in itself, and though we’re tempted to stop there, it’s only one of an incredible four parks in the immediate area that weigh in at an impressively over-sized 70+ hectares.

If you’re searching for daytime alternatives to drinking and tumbling down mineshafts, they do exist. From horse-riding to star-gazing, from climbing to flying, Silesia offers plenty of opportunities for you to get up, get out and get busy.

ADRENALINE SPORTS LASERHOUSE This excellent 600 square metre laser tag arena near the centre of Katowice is equipped with strobe lights, florescent graffiti, dry ice, dynamic music and elaborate backdrops to fully immerse gamers into an exciting futuristic world.

Engage your opponents in a sci-fi shootout while using barrels and tire pyramids for cover, or take a crack at the challenging laser maze (30 minutes for 50zł) with varying levels of difficulty. Laser Tag games are 30mins and cost 18zł Mon-Fri before 16:00, 22zł after 16:00 Mon-Thu and 25zł on a Friday. Weekends are 25zł all day. Attempts at the laser maze are 5zł. Also at ul. Wojska Polskiego 47 in Sosnowiec, Pl. Tadeusza Kościuszki 1 (C.H. Agora) 3 floor in Bytom.and ul. Bolesława Chrobrego 6 in Rybnik.QA‑4, ul.

Kamienna 9, tel. (+48) 32 229 00 21, www.laserhouse.pl.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

68 Katowice In Your Pocket

BOWLING & BILLIARDS BLACK 8 Inside a large underground entertainment complex on the outskirts of Katowice’s city centre, Black 8 is for those with more than a drunken or passing interest in pool. The only professional billiards club in Kato, Black 8 is home to 15 Dynamic II billiards tables and two high-quality snooker tables all with new cloth. Having organised the Polish Billiards Championships this place knows more than a thing or two about racking em’ up and knocking em’ down. Black 8 is also a restaurant offering a large menu of Polish standard fare and of course a lengthy drink menu to quench the players thirsts. Tables cost 10-20zł/h for billiards and 17-27zł/ h for snooker. Evening reservations would be wise.QJ‑3, ul.

Dąbrówki 10, tel. (+48) 32 781 08 60, www.clubgarage. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.

KRĘGIELNIA GALAKTYKA Located inside a 2000 square metre entertainment centre that includes the Black 8 billiards club, a music club (Club Garage) and a restaurant, this popular bowling alley features 8 lanes (plus 2 for kids), planetary graphics, computerised scoring, a full food and snack menu and even a stocked bar. True bowlers may find the setup which forces you to walk through every lane a bit frustrating, but not nearly as much so as the lanes themselves: extremely narrow, bowling has probably never been harder and you can forget about trying to put any spin on the ball. Still, it’s a fun atmosphere. Depending on the day of the week and time of day, lane rental costs 35-79zł/hr plus 2zł shoe rental; check website for full details. Reservations recommended.QJ‑3, ul.

Dąbrówki 10, tel. (+48) 32 781 08 60, www.clubgarage.pl.

Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. iyp.me/katowice

Leisure HORSE RIDING

RACQUET SPORTS

KATOWICE RIDING CLUB Indoor or outdoor riding, as you like. Beginner lessons 35zł/30min or buy a 5 ride pass for 150zł. Experienced riders pay 40zł/1hr. Friday riding is available by prior arrangement only.QK‑6, ul. Francuska 180A (Muchowiec), tel. (+48) 32 251 34 84. Open 15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon, Fri.

SZKOŁA TENISA PROSERV Indoor and Outdoor (seasonal) tennis courts. From October onward, outdoor courts will be closed until May.QJ‑5, ul. Ceglana 67, tel. (+48) 601 48 18 32, www.proserv. katowice.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Indoor courts are 4060zł per hour.

INDOOR PLAYGROUNDS CIUCIUBABKA Basically the best babysitters out there, Ciuciubabka gives your kids an opportunity to wear themselves out in a safe, supervised environment full of slides, ballpits, inflatible bouncy things, jungle gyms, arts and crafts and a lot more.

The desert island every kid wants to get left on. Everybody wins. Tickets prices for weekdays/weekends: first half hour 6/7zł, second started half hour 5/6zł, one hour 11/13zł, unlimited playtime 19/21zł.QJ‑1, ul. Jabłoniowa 52 (Józefowiec), tel. (+48) 32 725 26 58, www.ciuciubabka. com.pl. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

JUMPCITY Are you hip to this? The newest fitness/recreation craze sweeping the globe (we’ve been told) is jumping like a madman around a room filled with trampolines and occasionally taking a dip into pits filled with foam. Release your inner six year old and literally bounce off the walls, ceilings and navigate some interesting obstacles. The perfect way to spend a rainy day, blow off some steam or just have some good old fashioned fun. Entrance is every hour and you must turn up 15 minutes before to get ready and have your anti-skid socks, available for purchase on the spot for 5zł.QH‑7, ul. Tadeusza Kościuszki 227, tel. (+48) 32 781 88 84, www.jumpcity.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

Prices start from 24zł per session.

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS POKAZOWA ZAGRODA ŻUBRÓW In the quaint Silesian suburb of Pszczyna you can quite literally stumble upon a herd of bison. Spread out over 10 hectares on two farms, you can watch these beautiful beast grazing in what is almost their natural habitat. The animals can be seen from an observation deck which is even wheelchair friendly. Near the bison you can also observe red deer, fallow and roe deer, peacocks and wild geese. An unforgettable experience highlighted by a 3D film of the bison in action. Bison feeding times (Nov-Mar) 09:00, 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.Qul. Żorska 5, Pszczyna, tel. (+48) 32 447 05 03, www.zubry.pszczyna.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. From February open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 15 minutes before closing. Admission 12/9zł.

Children 3 and under for free. Farm and open-air museum combined ticket 16/12zł. Family ticket from 35zł (parents + up to 3 children 4-16 years old). iyp.me/polandblog

SPA & BEAUTY CITY SPA & WELLNESS Customised treatments for men and women in this centrally located house of luxuries: facials, hand, foot and body treatments, hairdressing and a lot more.QA‑6, ul. Henryka Jordana 19, tel. (+48) 32 251 01 99, www. cityspa.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. SENSE SPA This full service exclusive spa is the only spa in Silesia that offers the high end Japanese SENSAI massages, peelings and other deep healings. They offer a huge amount of all natural products, RevitaLash products and a wide variety of wellness, beatifying and relaxation services. Free consultations are available for both men and women so do your body a favour and stop on by, it just makes Sense.QC‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48) 600 80 84 98, www.sensespa.pl. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. TERMY RZYMSKIE Found in the impressive Pałac Saturna (see Apartments), these Roman baths were reportedly constructed based on plans for the baths at Pompeii and include a series of pools, baths and saunas which combine ancient and modern-day methods to relax and regenerate you plus a fitness club, restaurant and bar on site. The entire complex is something to behold, not least of all for its obligatory ‘nude-only’ policy. The only exception is Mondays when bathing suits are allowed in the pools. The surprisingly low prices and bold dress code have garnered this place plenty of attention, but the fact remains that facilities are of the highest quality in PL.Qul. Dehnelów 2, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 267 26 98, www.palacsaturna.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:45, Mon 15:00 - 22:45, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Termy Rzymskie

November 2017 - February 2018 69

Silesia Park

Take in the colours, sights and sheer size of Silesia Park from the Elka cableway.

Aside from perhaps Warsaw, Upper Silesia - and particularly its ‘capital’ city, Katowice - feels like the region of Poland most buggered by the communists. The scars are sadly everywhere, from the brutal, artless architecture of Katowice’s downtown to the highway overpass that passes for Chorzów’s market square, not to mention the gigantic smokestacks, abandoned pit heads and dilapidated mining complexes strewn about. However, Poland’s communist regime was not completely without forward vision (or innovative attempts at placating its citizenry), and only a few years removed from having ‘inherited’ the stripped industrial wastes of Upper Silesia after World War II, party leaders had earmarked a vast 620 hectare plot on the borderlands of Katowice and Chorzów with the intention of creating the largest urban park in Europe. Like many PRL

GETTING THERE Silesia possesses not only the largest park in PL, but all of Europe in Chorzów’s Silesia Park, which features dozens of attractions within its 620 hectares. Getting there from Katowice is as easy as hopping on a tram or bus (tram being the fastest). There are four tram and bus stops along the course of the park: ‘Park Śląski Wesołe Miasteczko’ (amusement park), ‘Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny’ (the zoo), ‘Park Śląski Wejście Główne’ (main entrance) and ‘Chorzów Stadion Śląski’ (Silesian Stadium). Take trams 6, 11 or 19; or buses 6, 820, 830 or 840 (getting off at Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny).

Chorzów is in zone 2 of Katowice’s public transport system so we recommend getting a 3,80zł zone 2 ticket which will get you to the park comfortably and beyond.

70 Katowice In Your Pocket

development projects, the party vision didn’t simply call for setting aside some open space for public use, but building a communist super park that would deliver entertainment, art, education, culture and sports to the masses. Nor was the land in question an easily relegated untouched patch of wilderness. On the contrary, the designated area was 75 percent devastated by mining and industrial waste, with the rest being undesirable marshland and dead trees. Under the direction of local hero Jerzy Ziętek - an important Silesian Insurrectionist turned politician - work began as early as 1950 on what was to become known (until recently) as the Provincial Park of Culture and Recreation (Wojewódzki Park Kultury i Wypoczynku or WPKiW): one of the most ambitious and pioneering environmental renewal projects ever undertaken in Europe.

In typical party fashion, Silesia’s working class was strongly encouraged to participate in the creation of this ‘people’s park’; park resources were even used to instruct people on how to contribute through a series of public workshops.

Support for the project was massive, and indeed everyone from industrial workers to school children (wait, that is everyone) joined in the digging and planting of an astounding 3.5 million trees and shrubs in the first year alone, as the project moved forward at a record clip. Over 70 different plant species were introduced, primarily poplar, willow, birch, black cherry and elderberry trees known for their ability to grow quickly and resist the effects of the industrial pollution that characterised the ‘Black Triangle’, as the region was then known. The park itself was quickly dubbed the ‘Green Lung of Silesia’ and as the project developed successfully over the years, a microclimate conducive to more sensitive species was established, wherein a variety of more common or exotic plants are able iyp.me/katowice

Silesia Park to flourish today, including a beautiful rose garden. In total 3.5 million tonnes of soil were moved to shape the area of the park, and 500,000 cubic metres of humus used to fertilise it.

After completing the rehabilitation of the park’s landscape, the park committee systematically set about establishing a series of attractions in the vast space of WPKiW - including the amusement park, zoo, planetarium, narrow-gauge railway, Silesian Stadium, Elka cableway and others as the park developed intensively in the 50s, 60s and 70s.

Two zones were essentially created which remain today, with the rear half left natural and the attractions stacked toward ul. Chorzowska where the main entry points to the park are located. In the 1970s as many as 1,300 people were employed by WPKiW, of which 500 worked on the landscaping of the park (today about 40 people do this job).

In an ironic inversion of the situation faced by many other Polish historical and cultural monuments, the hard times came in 1989 when the communist regime crumbled and the park began a period of stagnation, neglect and eventual bankruptcy. However WPKiK has been on the rebound since it became a public enterprise subsidised by the state budget in 2003, and today is on the way to re-establishing itself as one of southern Poland’s biggest tourist attractions.

The last several years have seen an official name change to the much more parsable ‘Silesia Park,’ world-class rides added to the amusement park, as well as the opening of parks for more popular modern pursuits including the rope park and dirt bike course. Numerous new high class restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels continue to open in and around the park while currently plans are afoot to create several new attractions, including a skate park and a paintball complex. The total modernisation of Silesian Stadium (Stadion Śląski) - one of the first attractions to open in WPKiK in the 50s - is also well under way as it looks to increase its capacity to upwards of 55,000, adding sky and press boxes and a partial dome that will cover all of the seating.

UPPER SILESIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC PARK This fantastic open-air folk park presents rural Silesian life through its aged architectural monuments. Since the late 60s, Chorzów’s ‘skansen’ has been rescuing endangered or forgotten Silesian structures by hoisting them up and dropping them in this makeshift village laid out over 20 hectares of idyllic countryside. Grouped into six ethnographic regions, visitors explore some 100 buildings dating from the late 18th to early 20th century, including traditional thatched-roof homes, granaries, historic wooden churches, wayside shrines and windmills.

Many of the buildings are open with indoor exhibits and an informative staff on hand (though some are closed in winter). There’s even an old karczma (inn) where you can get a bite to eat and a beer. One of the farms even has a few goats, sheep and horses, adding some extra magic to this romantic village of architectural artefacts saved from extinction.QQ‑4, ul. Parkowa 25, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 241 07 18, www.muzeumgpe-chorzow.pl. Museum open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Karczma open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/6zł (9/7zł for events).

Children under 3 enter for free. Mon free.

ZOO Located in Silesia Park, PL’s largest zoo is a massive 50 hectare extravaganza with 3,172 animals of 331 species from all over the world, including crowd favourites such as hippos, rhinos, Siberian tigers and cheetahs. The kids will be thoroughly enthralled thanks to a petting zoo and Dinosaur Valley, which features some rather silly concrete dinos. Feeding times for red pandas daily at 12:00, pelicans 09:30 & 17:00 and brown bears Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 14:00.QI‑1, Promenada gen. Jerzego Ziętka 7 (Park of Culture & Recreation, Chorzów), tel. (+48) 666 03 14 96, www.zoo.silesia.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Tickets 15/5zł, family ticket 35zł.

Despite all of the recent improvements, today the attractions of Silesia Park still stand in a state of transition between faded communist funpark and modern wonderland, making a visit all the more unique, if not more interesting. The contrast is most evident in the amusement park, where original rides and games from its opening days are still in use, while a trip to the planetarium offers a portal into the world of 1950s science fiction. Though the zoo is unlikely to change your views about keeping animals in captivity, and numerous crumbling pathways and crude concrete concourses are still in need of attention or reinvention, there can be no doubt that Silesia Park has the potential to develop into one of the greatest parks in all of Europe; and in the heart of Upper Silesia, no less. Enjoy it.

SILESIAN SCULPTURE GALLERY An open-air exhibit of local sculpture, most of which is cast in concrete. Obviously. Located roughly near the planetarium.QR‑5, Silesia Park, Chorzów. iyp.me/polandblog

Get in the Swing of things at the oldest Amusement Park in WPKiW Poland.

November 2017 - February 2018 71

Shopping

Luxury jewellery and products all available at Lilou.

What little shopping opportunities there are to be found in Katowice are mostly located in the area immediately north of the train station. Like most of 21st-century Poland, many shops are given over to the sale of women’s fashion, with more interesting independent enterprises in seriously short supply. In lieu of the small, communistera malls around the Rynek, Katowice’s best collection of shops under one roof is the extraordinary Silesia City Centre; if you can’t find what you’re looking for there, then you might have to leave PL to get it. That aside, we’ve made an effort through this section to focus on small local or national businesses you won’t find wherever you’re from.

ALCOHOL BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP A really admirable selection of world wines for all tastes and budgets in this shop/wine bar hidden in a courtyard near the train station. Another location in the Altus Centre (H-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13).QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. KONDRAT WINA WYBRANE Not your typical wine shop. Own and operated by a famous Polish actor, they carefully handpick each and every wine that line’s their shelves assuring only the best selection of vintages from the Old and New world for your sipping pleasure.QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 10/1, tel. (+48) 32 205 20 94, www.marekkondrat.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. 72 Katowice In Your Pocket

WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE If you happen to be a whisky and high end spirits lover, or you know someone near and dear who is, then this shop is a must stop. It’s no accident they spell ‘whisky’ without an ‘e’ as exclusive Scotch single malts are their specialty and we dare say they may just have the best selection we’ve seen in all of Poland! Talisker, Laphroaig, and Macallan are just the beginning and the knowledgeable owner/specialist will gladly help expand your knowledge and improve your pallet. Of course you’ll also find highend bourbons, voluptuous vodkas, lucious liquours and, oh yeah, some pretty good whiskey as well. They also have a great wine, cider and craft beer selection to fill out their impressive offer. We recommend you take your time to find that perfect tincture or tipple because it’s certainly here somewhere.QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 13, tel. (+48) 511 55 54 11, www.whiskyandspirit.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY LILOU This uniquely colourful and immediately inviting salon is filled with all sorts of glittering gadgets, precious pendants, delicate necklaces and leather bracelets. Their elegantly playful nature of the salon gives you the freedom to mix and match any of the items on display. The expert and friendly staff will happily help you choose the right piece and customise it so that special someone will cherish their talisman even more. Lilou is the perfect melding of French elegance and Polish craftsmanship.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 68, www.lilouparis.com/en.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/katowice

Shopping W. KRZYŚ One stop shopping for all your gold, diamond, pearl and luxury watch needs. They stock hot brands such as Chopard, Omega, Girard Peregaux, Longines, Rado, Certina, Tissot, Calvin Klein and Davosa. They also have watch repair services and they sell accessories. A great excuse to break out that new Platinum Mastercard.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 39, www.krzys-jubiler.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mariacka 12- entrance from ul. Stanisław, Katowice (+ 48) 577974279 kontakt@madlen.pl https://www.facebook.com/ madlenflowers

ART & ANTIQUES DESA This is Desa’s flagship location in Katowice and this classy show room has a variety of unique antique works of art, furniture, china, collectibles, decorative items and jewellery.

Get lost in a their spacious cases of treasures from another age. The attentive and helpful art experts on hand are there to help you find the perfect piece for your private collection or that special someone. They also handle the sale and appraisal of works of art and antiques. Also located at ul.

Dworcowa 13.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 5, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 22, www.desakatowice.com. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. GALERIA SZTUKI FOX A unique and welcoming gallery specialising in modern art, paintings, sculpture, graphics and hand-made jewellery.

Fox also offers decor services, and - somewhat surprisingly - exquisite teas and all the associated equipment you might need to prepare them. There is ample parking and the opening hours are merely a suggestion and they will easily stay open longer if you so desire.QB‑6, ul. Powstańców 10, tel. (+48) 600 08 77 21, www.galeriafox.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM EMPIK Located in the massive Silesian City Center, this is the best place in town to find English language paperbacks, guide books, a few foreign newspapers and a decent range of CDs and DVDs. One stop shopping for all your mass media wants and needs.QJ‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 22 451 03 94, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.

Fresh flowers with delivery Original gifts Forest in a jar Helium balloons Moss decorations on-line cafe/shop: www.madlen.pl

Perfumeria Lulua Staromiejska 21, Katowice (+48) 502-089-092 lulua.katowice@lulua.pl fb: www.facebook.com/luluaperfumeriakatowice instagram: @lulua.katowice

Lulua – niche products.

For him, for her.

KOMIS PŁYTOWY (RECORD STORE) The largest selection of vinyl we’ve ever seen in PL is hidden in this courtyard off one of Katowice’s main streets. Bargainpriced, though not extremely well-organised used CDs, as well as music-related DVDs, and posters.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 19, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

/polandinyourpocket iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 73

Shopping FASHION & ACCESSORIES GESZEFT Wonders never cease in this hip store for hipsters and lovers of divine design. We’ve never seen a place exude cool so effortlessly and everything you pick up, look at or try on makes you drool. Ease into the sleek coffee bar and grab a java drink to help you think. Wander the stylish salon which has racks of Polish designer threads, KATO-themed knick-knacks and shoulder bags, funky jewellery and even home decor. Look through art & archi books or grab a Silesion region mag while you curl up in a window seat and search for reasons to linger here a little longer. This unique boutique is one stop shopping for temporary tourists, culture vultures and fierce fashionistas alike. For misses and misters, but not to be missed.QK‑2, ul.

Morcinka 23-25, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54, www.geszeft.co.

Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

FLOWER SHOPS NEW MADLEN FLOWERS Flowers are wonderful, aren’t they? A perfect gift to the ones we love. Madlen Flowers offers you traditional options for that special someone, from a bouquet of flowers (just take a look at the arrangement of said bouquets and try not to be impressed!), to gifts to have around the house, like helium ballons and to the new trend of having your very own mesmerising mini-forest in a jar! What’s better, if you choose to buy online, you’ll have your order delivered within 4 hours to any location in Poland, and within 24 around the world! Impressive.QD-4, ul. Mariacka 12, tel. +48 577 97 42 79, www.madlen.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & SWEETS NATURA Ideal for those with dietary needs, Natura sells a range of organic and gluten free health food products, honeys, coldpressed oils, teas, herbs and the like.QA‑6, ul. Kościuszki 57, tel. (+48) 601 70 70 57. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ORGANIC FARMA ZDROWIA We’re not sure what it says about the organic farming industry and health food market when the only place to find a store like this is in a shopping mall, but here it is: a small, expensive selection of soy and gluten-free products, natural spices, oils, honeys, and other health-conscious goods.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 02 96, www.organicmarket.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA A larger than average version of the national folk art chain selling a range of related arts and crafts from kitsch to quintessential including some fine tapestries, wood 74 Katowice In Your Pocket

carvings, regional dolls and even complete folk costumes for both men and women (upon request).QC‑3, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 87 44, www.cepelia.pl.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. KURKA BEZ PIÓRKA A charming shop promoting art by young local artists, Kurka Bez Piórka specialises in handicrafts and fiber arts, but offers a wide range of art and accessories, including graphic prints, ceramics, hand-made jewellery, home decor items, gift baskets and even paintings and illustrations all made by graduates from Katowice’s Academy of the Arts. They also have another location at ul. Panewnicka 98.QB‑6, ul. Powstańców 4, tel. (+48) 691 40 10 40, www.kurkabezpiorka.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. SADZA SOAP This is the ultimate must-have souvenir for the Silesian enthusiast in your family. A lump of pristine coal that you can use to clean off all that coal dust you picked up from visiting one of the region’s many mines. Ok, so it may be a novelty, but it is actually made of high quality soap with absolutely deft design. Yet another perfect stocking stuffer. You can purchase your very own clean coal for around 25zł. They also have shampoo or body wash for 30zł, peeling soap for 39zł and a gift box for 160zł. You can order them online, in selected museums and info points around town or visit ‘MUS Wszystkiego Dobrego’ shop on ul. Bednorza 49/2 where their products are sold . Email them for more info.QC‑2, www.sadzasoap.com.

HEALTH & BEAUTY LULUA This niche perfume and cologne shop fields orders from all over the world, but is located right in the heart of Katowice, just up from the Rynek. Specialising in unique artisanal scents, Lulua is lauded for their expertise and unparalleled customer service (a rarity in these parts). In addition to a fantastic array of olfactory enticements, from obscure manufacturers to top luxury brands, Lulua also offers luxury skin care products, shaving kits and men’s grooming accessories. With Christmas just around the corner, this is an excellent place to pick up a unique gift for either sex.QD‑4, ul. Staromiejska 21, tel. (+48) 502 08 90 92, www.lulua. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS TARGOWISKO MIEJSKIE You haven’t really experienced Poland until you’ve smelt the unique fragrance of fruit, vegetables, fish and Chinese cotton that make up the main things for sale in a classic outdoor Polish market. This small market south of the train tracks comes with red and white striped awnings and a good selection of the aforementioned things for sale at bargain prices.QB‑5, Pl. Miarki, tel. (+48) 32 250 40 08, www.ztm.katowice.pl. Open 06:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Fruit and Vegetable Market is open 24/7 (weather permitting). Clothing bazaar is open to the public Sat and Sun 06:00 - 12:00. iyp.me/katowice

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KATOWICE, 15 Dworcowa Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

iyp.me/polandblog November 2017 - February 2018 75 Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Shopping SILESIA CITY CENTER

Located mid-way between Katowice and Chorzów on the site of an old 1904 coal mine, the spectacular Silesia City Center easily trumps everything else in the region. A combined retail, gourmet and entertainment complex, the original 65,000 metre-square building (now over 86,000) was opened in 2005 and in 2011 hotel heiress Paris Hilton descended upon Silesia to open a new wing with 60 additional shops, 2 more restaurants, a dentist office, massage studio, beauty salon and additional parking, bringing the total number of spaces to 3,500 - the largest lot in Silesia. Designed to blend in with the surrounding Gothic architecture, this shopping mall has over 300 shops including Tesco, Saturn and EMPiK superstores, a Cinema City movie complex, Jatomi Fitness Club, and is even a decent place to eat thanks to the upstairs Bierhalle Restaurant, Hana - a magnificent sushi restaurant located externally in the mine’s former swimming pool and the new industrial sheik bistro Sztolnia. Other features include the preserved, red brick St Barbara’s Chapel and the remains of the tower that once lowered the miners underground - now the symbol of the commercial centre. Get there via tram numbers 6, 11 or 19.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107, tel. (+48) 32 605 00 00, www. silesiacitycenter.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.

SHOPPING MALLS ALTUS Once Katowice’s most modern edifice, Altus began the Silesian capital’s post-communist march to modernity, and at 27 stories and 125 metres tall it was the the tallest building in all of southern PL for a long time before it was completely eclipsed by Wrocław’s 225m Sky Tower in 2012.

A thoroughly unique culture, entertainment, business and retail centre all contained in one glittering package, within Altus’ 63,000 square metres you’ll find a diverse range of ways to spend a typically dreary day in Silesia; in fact, with one of the best hotels in town occupying the upper floors, it’s conceivable you could spend your entire trip to Kato within the Altus confines.

Home to a fitness centre, squash courts, atrium gallery and several fine restaurants (Via Toscana, Kyoto Sushi), Altus also contains a plethora of retail boutiques and salons (including an Apple Macintosh service store), banks,

Full contents online: katowice.inyourpocket.com 76 Katowice In Your Pocket

cafes a 24hr fitness club (Get-Fit) and a rooftop bar with views of that incredible city you’ll be perfectly content to miss. The complex is so vast they even have superfluous space leftover for offices and conference facilities. Serviced by an underground parking lot with 566 spaces, there’s even an Avis car rental spot and a car wash. Now that’s thorough.QD‑3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 603 00 14, www.altus.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

DH SUPERSAM Katowice seems to be making up for lost time and it seems that every other month another new building or museum has a grand opening. This impressive modern glass and steel mini mall is the newest building to pop up in the city center and it certainly classes up the neighbourhood. The Supersam Shopping Centre isn’t entirely a new structure as it was literally built on the supporting steel frame of the original building from the 1930’s of the same name and reopened in 2015. Besides its superstructure, the new reinvented building has very little in common with its historical predecessor save its overarching economic mission to provide shoppers with a broader range of affordable shops, services, restaurants and outlets (100 shops and service units on over 18,000 m2) than you may find in some of the bigger shopping malls in town.

Of course you will find a few International commercial stalwarts like Rossmann, Pepco and Reserved plus a lot of bigger name Polish shops like Empik, and Cropp plus they have a huge modern gym complex on the third floor. For a full list of shops and services log on to their website or FB page.QB‑3, ul. Skargi 6, tel. (+48) 32 712 18 32, www. supersam-katowice.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 20:00.

GALERIA KATOWICKA The mighty Galeria Katowicka finally shed its cranes and opened its vaulted doors to a giddy and gasping public in September 2013, in concert with the completion of the final part of the three-stage modernisation of the Katowice Train Station. Featuring over 200 shops and service points - including a supermarket, several convenience stores, media and appliance outlets, all the top Polish and foreign clothing and shoe brands not to mention a slew of jewellery and interior design boutiques - the mall literally spills out onto Plac Szewczyka, which is covered in new restaurants and cafes, and includes an underground parking lot with 1,200 spaces (first 2 hours free!). Essentially the cornerstone of the modernisation and general beautification of the entire city centre, Galeria Katowicka and the new train and bus station were designed to smoothly blend into the city’s architecture and act as a convenient corridor of commerce for travellers, business professionals and locals alike. An unavoidable aspect of any visit to the city, those who weren’t around to ‘enjoy’ the old train station will probably never understand just what a blessing this commercial and transport complex really is.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 30, tel. (+48) 32 414 16 01, www.galeriakatowicka.eu. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/katowice

Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES

PRIVATE CLINICS

APTEKA BLISKO CIEBIE QC‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 32 258 11 11.

INTER-MEDQK‑1, ul. Grabowa 32 (Wełnowiec), tel. (+48) 32 253 61 98, www.inter-med.pl.

APTEKA DR. MAX QC‑5, ul. Wojewódzka 7, tel. (+48) 32 251 77 62.

LUX MEDQB‑2, ul. Sokolska 29, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl.

24-HOUR SHOPS

SAD-MEDQC‑3, ul. Teatralna 9, tel. (+48) 32 782 40 40, www.sadmed.com.pl.

CAREFFOURQM‑2, al. Roździeńskiego 200, tel. (+48) 32 786 21 00, www.carrefour.pl.

DELIKATESY 24HQB‑5, ul. Kościuszki 12.

POD RĘKĄQO‑2, ul. Hallera 6, tel. (+48) 32 204 88 58.

COMPUTER REPAIR

REAL ESTATE PIKQB‑5, ul. Kościuszki 26/7, tel. (+48) 32 781 95 82, www.pik.slask.pl.

PROLOKUMQC‑3, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 781 09 99, www.prolokum.pl.

GLOBAL SERVICEQL‑3, Al. Roździeńskiego 90, tel. (+48) 32 700 35 21, www.global-serwis.pl.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS

DENTISTS

EKSPERT QJ‑2, ul. Johna Baildona 16/2, tel. (+48) 500 26 56 78, www.ekspert.katowice.pl.

EMERGENCY DENTAL SERVICE Open 24hrs for all your middle of the night dental emergencies.QL‑4, ul. Krasińskiego 25A, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 85, www.dentalservice.com.pl.

MED CENTRUM QA‑3, Pl. Wolności 4, tel. (+48) 32 352 56 50, www.medcentrum.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

LAUNDRY RIZOMA LAUNDRY QC‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 509 50 34 00, www. pralnierizoma.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. SELF-SERVICE LAUNDRY KATOWICE QD‑4, ul. Św. Stanisława 8A, tel. (+48) 661 52 22 88.

Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N­W

LOCKSMITHS KLUCZE Found in all major shopping centres in Katowice, the perfect place to duplicate keys, repair shoes, buy a range of batteries, stamps and souvenirs.QB‑2, ul. Piotra Skargi 8, tel. (+48) 32 781 06 23.

EUROBUSINESS - HALLER QF‑2, ul. Obroki 133, tel. (+48) 32 355 38 01, www. haller.pl.

GROY QL‑3, ul. 1 Maja 9, tel. (+48) 32 352 10 01, www.groy.pl.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Katowice, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission.

FIFTY-FIFTY QC‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 32 258 44 04.

Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

POST OFFICES

KANTOR MAX GRAND QB‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 22, tel. (+48) 604 40 17 00, www.kantorykatowice.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

POCZTA POLSKA QC‑4, ul. Pocztowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 359 46 09, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

MAX KANTOR QB‑3, ul. Stawowa 10, tel. (+48) 694 99 21 67. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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November 2017 - February 2018 77

Hotels DIAMENT PLAZA KATOWICE QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 746 70 00, www. hotelediament.pl. 46 rooms (12 singles, 29 doubles, 4 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­FK ­ hhhh DIAMENT SPODEK QD‑1, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 606 85 85, www. hotelediament.pl. 30 rooms (29 singles, 26 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­U­F­K­D­C hhh HOTEL KATOWICEQC‑3, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 258 82 81, www.hotel-katowice.com.pl. 113 rooms (48 singles, 51 doubles, 14 suites). H­6­U­K hh

Mini golf in the lobby of the wacky Diament Spodek

Katowice, and Silesia in general, is first and foremost a business destination, though it is quickly becoming a premier event hub for festivals, concerts, conferences and sports competitions. Reflecting this fact is an ever expanding accommodation market, with the lion’s share going to business-class hotels. Still, you can find some decent low-price options, especially if you’re willing to lay your head a bit further from the action.

On our website - katowice.inyourpocket.com - we list scores of accommodation options in and around Silesia, with full reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide don’t allow us to include all of that content here, but below we provide a list of the most reputable accommodation options in Katowice and the surrounding region. Sleep well.

IN KATOWICE ALTUS HOTEL PRESTIGE (SOON COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT)QD‑3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 93 50, www.altushotel.com.pl. 151 rooms (37 sin‑ gles, 65 doubles, 15 suites, 1 apartment, 33 Executive).

P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­X hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL FORUM KATOWICE Qul. Bytkowska 1A, tel. (+48) 32 721 11 11, www. bestwesternkatowice.pl. 168 rooms (61 singles, 74 doubles, 30 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­F­ K­D hhhh

IBIS BUDGET KATOWICE CENTRUM QL‑3, Al. Roździeńskiego 18, tel. (+48) 32 350 50 40, www.ibisbudget.com. 124 rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles, 4 triples). P­6­U h MONOPOL QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5, tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www. monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. 108 rooms (12 singles, 93 doubles, 3 apartments). P­H6 ­ ­U­F­L­K­D­ X­C hhhhh NOVOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QK‑3, Al. Roździeńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 32 200 44 44, www.accorhotels.com. 300 rooms (207 singles, 93 doubles). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­C hhhh PARK HOTEL DIAMENT KATOWICE QJ‑4, ul. Wita Stwosza 37, tel. (+48) 32 720 00 00, www. hotelediament.pl. 184 rooms (6 singles, 173 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­6­UF ­ ­K hhhh PATIO ZAJAZD Qul. Kościuszki 352 (Piotrowice), tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www.patiozajazd.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles, 12 doubles, 3 triples, 1 quad, 1 five-person room). 6­K­W Q HOTEL PLUS KATOWICE QC‑5, ul. Wojewódzka 10, tel. +48 32 740 99 40, www.qhotels.pl. 121 rooms (120 singles, 118 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­U­F­G­K hhhh SENATOR QL‑3, ul. 1 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 32 258 60 81, www. senator.katowice.pl. 48 rooms (47 singles, 47 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­U­L­K hhh

B&B HOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QA‑3, ul. Sokolska 4, tel. (+48) 32 700 50 88, www. hotelbb.pl. 105 rooms (105 singles, 102 doubles, 3 triples). P­H­6­U­X hh

SILESIAN HOTEL QUALITY AND ECONOMY QK‑5, ul. Szybowcowa 1A, tel. (+48) 32 606 88 00, www. silesianhotel.pl. 202 rooms (8 apartments). P­H­6­ U­F­K­D­C hhh

CAMPANILE QL‑5, ul. Sowińskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32 205 50 50, www. campanile.com. 77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles).

P­H­6­U­K hh

VIENNA HOUSE EASY ANGELO KATOWICE QB‑2, ul. Sokolska 24, tel. (+48) 32 783 81 00, www. viennahouse.com. 203 rooms (181 singles, 181 doubles, 5 suites, 17 apartments). P­H­U­F­K­D­X hhhh

78 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

Hotels IN CHORZÓW DIAMENT ARSENAL PALACE KATOWICE/ CHORZÓW QQ‑5, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 84 84, www.hotelediament.pl. 115 rooms (21 singles, 91 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). H­6­U­F­L­K­ D­C­w hhhh DIAMENT BELLA NOTTE KATOWICE/CHORZÓW QQ‑4, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (12 singles, 31 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). H­6­U­F­L­K­ D­C­w hhh

AROUND UPPER SILESIA DESILVA INN KATOWICE AIRPORT Qul. Równoległa 2, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www.desilva.pl. 77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles, 77 triples). P­H­6­U­F­K hhh DIAMENT ECONOMY GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 42, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www.hotelediament.pl. 27 rooms (7 singles, 20 doubles). 6­U­L­K hhh DIAMENT PLAZA GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 30, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 721 70 00, www.hotelediament.pl. 84 rooms (32 singles, 47 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­6­F­L­K hhhh

‘INNOVATION’ CONFERENCE & TRAINING CENTRE Qul. Jagiellońska 38A, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 278 75 55, www.oks.polsl.pl. 34 rooms (30 singles, 21 doubles, 2 triples, 6 quads, 8 suites, 4 apartments). H M HOTEL SOSNOWIEC Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199, Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 32 363 63 00, www.mhotelsosnowiec.pl. 55 rooms (51 singles, 50 doubles, 4 suites). H­6­U­F­L­K hhh NOMA RESIDENCE QZameczek Myśliwski Promnice, tel. (+48) 32 219 46 78, www.promnice.pl. 13 rooms (13 singles, 13 doubles).

H­K­D hhhh QUBUS HOTEL GLIWICE Qul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. 89 rooms (35 singles, 44 doubles, 6 suites, 4 apartments). P­H­6­UK ­ hhh ROYAL Qul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 400 00 00, www. hotelroyal.com.pl. 50 rooms (14 singles, 36 doubles).

P­T­H­F­L­K­D­X hhh WILLA AMBASADOR Qul. 3 Maja 78, Zabrze (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 32 271 50 44, www.mosir.zabrze.pl. 28 rooms (26 singles, 17 doubles, 8 triples, 2 suites). P­K

DIAMENT VACANZA SIEMIANOWICE ŚLĄSKIE Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie, tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.hotelediament.pl. 44 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles, 19 triples, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­K­ D­w hhh DIAMENT ZABRZE Qul. 3 Maja 122A, Zabrze (Zaborze Południe), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 00, www.hotelediament.pl. 58 rooms (16 singles, 34 doubles, 6 suites, 2 Studio). H­6­F­ K­D hhh HOTEL RYCERSKI (KNIGHTS HOTEL) Qul. Będzińska 53, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl. 26 rooms (24 singles, 19 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). H­K hhh HOTEL SZAFRANQul. Będzińska 82, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 784 31 00, www.hotelszafran.pl. 115 rooms (2 singles, 84 doubles, 22 triples, 7 apartments). P­H­ 6­U­F­K­X hhhh IBIS KATOWICE - ZABRZE Qul. Jagiellońska 4, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.ibis.com. 114 rooms (114 singles, 114 doubles).

P­H­K hh iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018 79

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Mirror, mirror, on the wall, who’s the best looking UFO of them all?

84 Katowice In Your Pocket

Juliana Ordona D-1; E-1, K-2 Juliusza Ligonia B/D-6; B-5 Juliusza Słowackiego A-3/4; B-2/3 Juliusza Zarębskiego I-3 Kaktusów K-2 Kamienna A-4, J-3 Karbowa K-4 Kardynała Bolesława Kominka I-4 Karola L-3 Karola Miarki L-3 Karoliny L-2 Katowicka K-2; L-2 Kawek I-5/6 Kazimiery Iłłakowiczówny J-2; K-1/2 Kazimierza Dłuskiego J-4 Kazimierza Pułaskiego L-4 Kazimierza Skiby I-5/6 Klimczoka I-2/3 Klonowa K-2 Kolibrów J-5/6 Konstantego Damrota D-7; E-4/7 Konstantego Ildefonsa Gałczyńskiego I-5 Konstantego Woźniczki I-5/6 Kopalniana L-3 Kormoranów I-5; J-5 Koszarowa I-4 Kozielska A-5, J-3/4 Krakusa L-2 Królowej Jadwigi C-5/6 Krzemienna K-5 Krzysztofa Mieroszewskiego L-2 Krzywa A-5; B-5 Księcia Józefa Poniatowskiego A-6/7, J-4 Księdza Aleksandra Skowrońskiego L-3/4 Księdza biskupa Czesława Domina B-7 Księdza biskupa Józefa Gawliny I-4 Księdza biskupa Stanisława Adamskiego I-4; J-4 Księdza biskupa Teodora Kubiny I-4 Księdza Franciszka Ścigały L-2/3 Księdza Józefa Czempiela B-7

Księdza Józefa Szafranka D-5 Księdza kardynała Bolesława Kominka I-4; J-4 Księdza kardynała Stefana Wyszyńskiego K-2 Księdza Karola Żmija I-2 Księdza Konstantego Damrota D-7, K-4 Księdza Norberta Bończyka L-2 Księdza Piotra Skargi B-3; C-3 Księdza Stanisława Maślińskiego L-3 Łabędzia I-5; J-5 Lelków J-5/6 Leopolda L-2; M-2 Leopolda Markiefki L-2/3 Lipowa I-2 Ludomira Różyckiego I-5 Ludwika L-2 Macieja I-3 Macieja Ledóchowskiego I-3 Maksymiliana Wilimowskiego J-3/4 Marcina I-2/3 Marcina Szeligiewicza A-7; B-7 Mariacka D-4 Marii Goeppert-Mayer A-4, J-3 Marii Skłodowskiej-Curie A-5/6 Meteorologów J-5 Michała Drzymały A-5/6; B-5 Michała Grażyńskiego B-1; C-1, J-2; K-2 Mikołaja Kopernika A-5; B-5 Mikołaja Reja L-3 Mikołowska A-4/5, I-4/5; J-3/4 Misjonarzy Oblatów MN J-2; K-2 Młyńska B-4; C-4, F-1 Modrzewiowa K-2 Morawska L-2/3 Morwowa K-2 Murckowska L-3/4; M-3/5 Myśliwska E-4 Nad Osiekiem J-3/4 Nadgórników L-2 Narcyzów A-7 Normy L-2 Nowa L-2/3 Nowotarska L-2 Olimpijska C/E-1; D-2, K-2 Ondraszka I-2/3 Opolska A-2/3; B-3, J-3 Parkowa I-5 Pawła Stalmacha A-5/6, J-4 PCK A-6 Pelikanów J-5 Pętla Słoneczna K-2 Piastowska C-3; D-3 Piękna I-4/5 Pilotów K-4 Piotra L-2 Plac Karola Miarki B-5 Plac Wolności A-3/4 Plebiscytowa B-6/7; C-5/6, J-4 Pocztowa C-4 Podgórna C-5 Podhalańska L-2; M-2 Podchorążych B-6/7 Powstańców A/E-6, K-4 Profesora Augusta Chełkowskiego D-3; E-3 Profesora Waleriana Pańki D-3; E-3, K-3; L-3 Prosta K-4; L-4 Prowansalska L-5

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Street Register CHORZÓW

Courtesy of Katowice City Council Przemysłowa E-5, K-4; L-4 Puławska L-2 Raciborska I-3/4; J-3/4 Relaksowa I-4 Rodańska K-5 Rondo generała Emila Fieldorfa "Nila" D-7, K-4 rondo Generała Jerzego Ziętka C-2 Rondo generała Stanisława Maczka I-4 Rondo Józefa Pietera D-2 Rondo Kazimierza Zenktelera E-7, K-4 Rondo księdza Józefa Kani I-2 Rondo księdza Konstantego Michalskiego J-5 Rondo Policji Województwa Śląskiego D-7 Równoległa L-3 Różana A-7 Roździeńskiego L-3 Rybnicka D-6/7 Rycerska I-4 Ryszarda L-3 Sądowa A-3/4, J-3 Skalna J-4 Sławomira Skrzypka D-1, K-2 Sokolska A-3; B-1/3; C-1, K-2 Śródmiejska C-2/3 Stanisława Fliegera J-4 Stanisława Kobylińskiego D-5 Stanisława Moniuszki D-3 Stanisława Rochowiaka I-4; J-4 Starowiejska D-4 Stefana Batorego B-5 Stefana Czarnieckiego L-3 Stefana Okrzei J-2; K-2 Strzelecka J-4 Świętego Jacka E-5 Świętego Jana C-4 Świętego Pawła E-3/4 Sztygarska L-3

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Szybowa I-4 Szybowcowa K-5 Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego L-2/3 Tadeusza Konckiego B-5/6 Tadeusza Kościuszki A-6/7; B-4/6; C-4 Tadeusza Rejtana L-3 Tarasa Szewczenki I-2 Teatralna D-3 Trzech Stawów L-4; M-4 Tylna Mariacka C-4; D-4 Uniwersytecka D-2/3; E-2/3 Walerego Wróblewskiego L-2/3 Waleriana L-3 Warszawska C/E-4, K-3; L-3 Wąska I-2 Węglana L-2 Węglowa I-2 Wiązowa K-2; L-2 Widok J-2 Wierzbowa K-2 Wincentego Janasa I-3 Wincentego Styczyńskiego B-5 Wincentego Wajdy L-2 Wiślana L-2 Wita Stwosza B-5/7, F-1; J-4/5 Władysława Broniewskiego K-2 Władysława Łokietka L-3 Władysława Reymonta D-5/7 Wodna E-3/4 Wojewódzka C/E-5; C-4 Wrocławska L-2; M-2 Zabrska A-2/3 Zacisze E-5 Zakopiańska L-2 Zamułkowa I-2 Żelazna I-3; J-2/3 Zofii Koniarkowej L-2 Żołnierzy Wyklętych K-4; L-4 Żwirki i Wigury A-5; B-5/6, J-4 Zygmunta Krasińskiego E-5, K-3/4; L-4

Al. Bojowników o Wolność i Demokrację P-5 Al. Fali R-5 Al. Gwiazd R-5 Al. Główna Q-5; R-5 Al. Harcerska Q-5; R-5 Al. Klonowa R-4/5 Al. Księcia Henryka Pobożnego Q-5 Al. Księżnej Jadwigi Śląskiej Q-5 Al. Muzyków R-4 Al. Planetarium R-5 Al. Różana Q-5; R-5 Al. Spacerowa Q-5; R-5 Al. Sportowa R-5 Al. Widokowa R-4 Al. Wojska Polskiego P-5; Q-5 Al. Wycieczkowa Q-4; R-4 Al. Łani R-4/5 Alfonsa Zgrzebnioka Q-5 Astrów P-5 Bankowa P-4 Bartosza Głowackiego P-5 Biskupa Bernarda Bogedaina P-4 Bolesława Chrobrego P-4; Q-5 Chorzowska Q-5; R-5 Cmentarna P-5 Czysta P-5 Częstochowska P-5 Dobrodzieńska P-5 Doktora Andrzeja Mielęckiego P-4 Doktora Józefa Rostka P-4 Drogowa Trasa Średnicowa P-5 Dworcowa P-4 Działkowa P-5 Dębowa Q-5 Floriańska P-4 Franciszka Karpińskiego P-4 Franciszkańska P-5 Franklina Delano Roosevelta Q-4 Fryderyka Chopina P-4 Gajowa P-4 Generała Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego P-4/5 Górna Q-4 Górnicza P-5 Hajducka P-5 Henryka Majętnego Q-4 Henryka Sienkiewicza P-4 Hetmańska Q-5 Ignacego Mościckiego Q-4/5 Ignacego Paderewskiego Q-4/5 Jagiellońska P-4 Jana Faski P-4 Jana III Sobieskiego P-4 Jana Kilińskiego P-4/5 Jasna P-5 Juliana Grządziela P-5 Józefa Lompy P-4 Józefa Ryszki P-5 Józefa Wybickiego Q-4 Kadecka Q-4 Karolinki Q-4 Kaszubska P-4 Katowicka P-4/5; Q-5 Kazimierza Wielkiego P-4 Klimzy P-5 Konstantego Damrota P-4 Krakowska Q-4 Krakusa P-4 Krzywa P-4/5 Kręta P-5 Księcia Józefa Poniatowskiego P-4

Księcia Władysława Opolskiego P-4 Księdza Augustyna Kordeckiego P-5 Księdza Biskupa Ignacego Krasickiego P-4 Księdza Jana Gałeczki P-4/5 Ludwika Szabatowskiego P-4 Ludwika Urbanowicza P-5 Lwowska P-4; Q-4 Magistrala Węglowa P-4; Q-4 Marii Konopnickiej P-4; Q-4 Mazurska Q-4 Michała Drzymały P-4/5 Mikołaja Kopernika P-4 Modrzewiowa R-4 Młodzieżowa P-5; Q-5 Osiedle Klimzy P-5 Parkowa Q-4/5 Piaskowa P-5 Piotra Skargi P-4; Q-4 Plac AKS Q-5 Plac Dworcowy P-4 Plac Jana Matejki P-4 Plac Kopernika P-4 Plac Piastowski Q-4 Plac Powstańców Śląskich P-4 Pocztowa P-4 Pod Estakadą P-4 Pogodna P-4; Q-4 Powstańców P-4/5 Promenada generała Jerzego Ziętka R-5 Promenada Jerzego Ziętka R-5 Przy Gazowni P-5 Przyjemna P-5 Racławicka P-5 Rajnholda Domina P-5 Rondo księdza biskupa Ignacego Jeża Q-5 Rycerska Q-4 Rynek P-4 Różana P-5 Siemianowicka R-4 Sportowa P-5 Stanisława Moniuszki P-4 Starego Zdroju P-4/5 Stefana Żeromskiego P-4 Szczecińska P-5 Słoneczna P-5 Słowiańska Q-4 Tadeusza Kościuszki P-4; Q-4 Tadeusza Rejtana Q-4 Teatralna P-4 Towarowa P-4 Tysiąclecia Q-5 Ułańska Q-5 Wawrzyna Hajdy P-5 Willowa P-5 Wiosenna P-5 Wiśniowa Q-5 Wolności P-4 Wschodnia R-4 Wycieczkowa R-4/5 Węzłowiec R-4 Władysława Truchana P-4 Zielona Q-5 Zjednoczenia P-4 Łąkowa P-5 Świętej Anny P-5 Świętej Barbary P-5 Żwirki i Wigury P-5

November 2017 - February 2018 85

Index Altus 76 Altus Hotel Prestige 78 Ambasada Śledzia 44 Amnezja 43 Auschwitz I 67 Auschwitz II - Birkenau 67 Bar a Boo 35 Bavitto 48 B&B Hotel Katowice Centrum 78 Best Western Premier Hotel Forum Katowice 78 Biała Małpa 43 Bierhalle 30, 46 bistro & cafe Krystynka wraca z Wiednia 30 bistro & cafe zielnik 30 Black 8 68 Bohema 30 BoomBarr 43 Botanika 28 Browariat 44 Browar Obywatelski 63 Buddha 29 BUŁKĘS 30 Burgundia Wine Tastings & Wine Shop 48, 72 C4 44 Cadenza 39 Cafe Byfyj 61 Cafe Kattowitz 22 Campanile 78 Cepelia 74 C'est Si Bon 27 Chata z Zalipia 39 Christ the King Cathedral 52 City Information Office 56 City Pub 44 City Rock 25 City Spa & Wellness 69 Ciuciubabka 69 Cloud Scraper 55 Coffee Ways 22 Cooler Club & Food 26, 48 Cristallo 36 Cybermachina 45 Desa 73 DeSilva Inn Katowice Airport 79 DH Supersam 76 Diament Arsenal Palace Katowice/Chorzów 79 Diament Bella Notte Katowice/ Chorzów 79 Diament Economy Gliwice 79 Diament Plaza Gliwice 79 Diament Plaza Katowice 78 Diament Spodek 78 Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie 79 Diament Zabrze 79 Drink Bar 45 Drzwi Zwane Koniem 30 Dworek Pod Lipami 61 El Mexicano 39 Empik 73 Fantasmagoria 32

86 Katowice In Your Pocket

Galeria Katowicka 76 Galeria Riksza Pub 61 Galeria Sztuki Fox 73 Geszeft 74 Hana Sushi 37 Hipnoza Jazz Club 46 Hospoda 26 Hotel Katowice 78 Hotel Rycerski 79 Hotel Szafran 79 Hurry Curry 25 Ibis Budget Katowice Centrum 78 Ibis Katowice - Zabrze 79 Industrial Ethnography Museum 60 'Innovation' Conference & Training Centre 79 Inqbator 49 International Congress Centre 56 Józef Piłsudski 53 JUMPCITY 69 Kato 45 Katowice Historical Museum 53 Katowice Riding Club 69 Kawiarnia Wawelska 22 KluboGaleria SARP 32, 45 Klub Pomarańcza 49 Klub Prime 49 Kofeina Corner 22 Komis Płytowy 73 Kondrat Wina Wybrane 72 Kredens 46 Kręgielnia Galaktyka 68 Królestwo 49 Kurka Bez Piórka 74 Kyoto Sushi 37 La Cantina 38 Laserhouse 68 Len Arte 36 Lilou 72 Little Hanoi...and more!

41 Longway 46 Lulua 74 Madlen Flowers 74 Mad Mick 26 Mały Kredens 46 Mañana Bistro & Wine Bar 32 Masala House 29 Mega Club 49 M Hotel Sosnowiec 79 Miss Cupcake 23 Monopol 23, 78 moodro bistro & cafe 23 moodro restaurant 41 Mr Fox Pub&Resto 46 Museum of the Duke’s Brewery in Tychy 64 Namaste Traveller's Club 47 Nasze Bao 26 Natura 74 Nikiszowiec Information Office 60 Noma Residence 79 NOVO 36

Novotel Katowice Centrum 78 Okiem i Brzuchem 28 Okonomiyaki YO! 37 Old Cuban 47 Organic Farma Zdrowia 74 Oświęcim Jewish Museum & Synagogue 66 Pan de Rossa 32 Park Hotel Diament Katowice 78 Patio 33 Patio Park 33 Patio Zajazd 33, 78 Petit 26 Plac Wolności 54 Pokazowa Zagroda Żubrów 69 Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra 56 Promnice Hunting Lodge 63 PTTK Katowice 52 Pub Kontynuacja 47 Q Hotel Plus Katowice 78 Qubus Hotel Gliwice 79 Queens 49 Rajzefiber 49 Restauracja Kuchnia Otwarta 40 Restauracja Max 34 Restauracja Monopol 34 Restauracja Pod Drewnianym Bocianem 34 Restauracja Sunlight 27 Restauracja Tamarynd 34 Restauracja Vacanza 35 Restaurant Via Toscana 38 Ristorante Terra Mare 37 Royal 79 Rycerski 40 Rynek 56 Sadza Soap 74 Senator 78 Sense Spa 69 Shrimp House 38 Silesia City Center 76 Silesian Hotel Quality and Economy 78 Silesian Insurgents' Monument 53 Silesian Museum 54 Silesian Museum - The Grand

Hotel 54 Silesian Parliament 57 Silesian Sculpture Gallery 71 SilesiaTrip.pl 52 Śląska Prażalnia Kawy Cafe Amor 23 Souvlaki Bar 28 Spiż 46 Spodek 57 St. Anne's Church 60 Steakhouse Da Da 35 St. Mary's Church 52 Sweet Home Silesia 23 Synergia. Dobre Miejsce 23 Szkoła Tenisa Proserv 69 Sztolnia. Chleb. Mięso. Wino 27 Targowisko Miejskie 74 Tatiana 35 Termy Rzymskie 69 Thali House by Masala House 30 Upojeni 47 Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park 71 Vienna House Easy Angelo Katowice 78 Visiting Auschwitz 65 Wall Street Cocktail Bar & Tapas 25 Water Park 64 WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE 72 Wiejska Chatka 40 Willa Ambasador 79 Wilson Shaft Gallery 59 W. Krzyś 73 W Międzyczasie 63 WunderBAR 28 Zaklęty Czardasz 29 Zdrowa Krowa 26 Zielony Most 28 Zillmann Tea & Coffee 61 Złoty Osioł 28 Złoty Róg 40 Żółte Drzwi 48 Zoo 71 Żurownia 41

FEATURES INDEX Currency Exchange Katowice for Beer Lovers Language Smarts Market Values Polish Snacks & Shots Polish Vodka Riding the Polish Rails Silesian Museum Silesian Stadium: Back in Business!

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Gliwice ul. Ceglarska 35 www.queensnightclub.pl Open: 18:00 - 05:00 tel. 032/ 305 30 20

American Bar

Erotic Show Dance

Go-Go Dance

We invite you to Queens nightclub.

Discretion is of our highest concern, as immediately evidenced by our parking lot.

The interior design of the rooms and equipment complement each other to create an intimate, erotic atmosphere.

We dedicate the greatest care to the cleanliness of the club.

Your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Genießen Sie in angenehmer Atmosphäre, die perfekt gemixten Drinks unserer Bar, die prickelnde Erotikshow der QUEENS - Girl´s auf der Bühne, während Sie sich entspannt in einem der vielen Sofas zurücklehnen. Sie erleben eine Tabledance Show der Extraklasse, die perfekt aufeinander abgestimmt ist.

Die Sound & Lichttechnik im QUEENS Striptease Club unterstreicht dieses noch. Geniessen Sie einen “Private Dance”, den persönlichen Striptease, nur für Sie mit einer Tänzerin Ihrer Wahl.

Die Tänzerinnen des Nachtclub´s, verstehen es Erotik, Verführung, Varieté und Akrobatik miteinander zu verbinden.

Ob Junggesellenabschied, Firmenfeier, Geburtstag, Vereinsfeier oder Abschlußfeier, der Tabledance Club ist der ideale Ort um einen unvergesslichen Abend zu erleben und tabulos zu feiern.

“Dich erwartet eine exzellente Tabledance - Erotikshow” Wir freuen uns auf euren Besuch Euer QUEENS - Team