Katowice In Your Pocket - March - June 2018

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Katowice No. 33, March – June 2018

Silesian Women of Industry

p.6

Tauron New Music Festival p.18 Filip Dujardin: Overview

p.21

Contents

Katowice

Feature Women of Silesian Industry

p.6

Good day, ye mighty women of Industry! Photo: Industriada.pl

Arrival & Transport

10

Shopping

72

City Basics

14

Directory

77

Culture & Events 16

Hotels

78

Cafés

22

Maps & Indexes

Restaurants

24

Nightlife

42

Sightseeing Essential Katowice Silesia Park Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec

Further Afield

51 58 61

Tychy Auschwitz

66 68

Leisure

70

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Katowice City Map Katowice Centre Map Region Map Street Index Listings & Features Index

80 82 83 84 86

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March – June 2018

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Foreword Welcome to Katowice and issue 33 of Katowice In Your Pocket – your guide to the city and greater Silesia! Spring is already in the air as this year’s winter quietly slinks away having gone mostly unnoticed. Spring in Silesia usually means the beginning of a jam packed festival season.

Katowice has a growing reputation for hosting some of the best music festivals in Poland (Tauron, Off and Rawa Blues etc.) and this June will mark the kick off to the season with Tauron 2018! Don’t forget that the cultural revolution in Katowice has industrial tourism leading the way, and this year is no different with Industriada 2018, the theme being ‘Women of Industry’, the stars of which you can read about in our main feature on p.6. There’s plenty to see and do in Kato indoors and outdoors so read on to find out more.

You can find a full listing of upcoming events in Katowice and other great Silesian venues in our What’s On section (p.16). Welcome to Katowice, the city which continues to surprise and humble us. Join us as we guide you through the best of what Katowice has to offer... As always, let us know how you got on in Katowice on our Facebook page (/katowiceinyourpocket.com) and/or show us what you’ve seen during your time in the city by using the hashtag #KatoIYP through Instagram, or if you prefer, just use good old fashioned email: editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.

Andrew Elliott, who has close ties to Poland, has been living here since 2016 when he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

25

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT

COVER STORY It’s easy to explore Katowice on foot and by using public transport, but with the warmer weather returning, nothing beats using a bike, like this person is doing in Silesian Museum.

Photo: R. Kazimierczak courtesy of slaskie.travel

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales Consultant: Monika Szymanek (+48) 668 876 351 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Events Editor: Emilia Meres Research: Gabriela Mańkut, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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4 Katowice In Your Pocket

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Katowice, ul. Drzymały 9 726 111 222 godziny otwarcia: 12-22.30 www.buddha-restaurant.pl

The Mother of Silesian Industry: Joanna von Schaffgotsch.

Women of Silesian Industry Despite traditionally being the domain of men, throughout Upper Silesia’s history disproportionately high numbers of women have worked in its coal and zinc industries. This issue we take a look at the role of women in Silesian industry - both those whose daily labour was down in the hole, and those whose daily work was done in the home and community.

6 Katowice In Your Pocket

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Women of Silesian Industry Historically, Katowice, and Silesia as a whole, has passed from empire to empire over the centuries since it was first settled. Quartered at the crossroads of Europe with a diverse cultural make-up, perhaps this political tug of war (even resulting in armed conflict at times in the form of 3 uprisings) is hardly surprising, but there's one distinct factor which has always made Silesia a highly coveted territory: the region is rich in coal, known locally as 'black gold.' As a result the area quickly developed into Central Europe's industrial heartland, with the coal and steel industries flourishing from the start.

Heavy industry across Silesia, and of course the world, has traditionally been seen as the domain of men, with husbands heading off to smelting factories or going down pits to do a dirty and exhaustive day's work, while old societal norms held that their wives stayed at home to tend the children and run the household. The fact is, however, that despite these social conventions, and even European laws explicitly preventing women from working in heavy industry, throughout Upper Silesia’s history disproportionately high numbers of women have worked in its coal and zinc industries.

...with men removed from cultural and social life, Silesian women rose to power and prominence...

Across Europe in the late 19th century, legislation reflected the societal and moral belief that children and women should be protected from performing labour over extended periods of time. In Imperial Germany specifically (to which Upper SIlesia belonged in the 19th century), women and young girls were forbidden to work underground after 1868, the minimum age for children working in mines was raised to fourteen in 1878, and night work was outlawed for women and minors, with maximum working hours set for both. Despite this, however, the Bundesrat (German Empire 'Union Council') issued a series of edicts exempting Upper Silesian mines and smelters from certain labour restrictions until 1892,

Halemba Coal Mine (Ruda Śląska)

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Photo: fotopolska.eu

INDUSTRIOUS SILESIAN LADIES

Maria Goeppert Mayer Mural - ul. Bankowa 12.

Going back to the early days of industrialisation in Silesia, one of the more famous names to repeatedly pop up is that of Karl Godulla (1781-1848), a Silesian self-made industrialist who came from modest beginnings. By the time of his death, he owned 80 zinc mines, 4 zinc smelters, 48 coal mines and a whole lot of land. Unmarried and childless, he had adopted a young girl, Joanna Gryzik (1842-1910), from one of his workers, who upon his passing inherited his vast estate at the tender age of six years old. By the age of 16, Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia bestowed upon young Joanna a noble title, making her Gryzik von Schomberg-Godulla.

Just one month later she married count Hans Ulrich von Schaffgotsch, taking the name by which we know her today: Joanna von Schaffgotsch. Also known as the ‘Silesian Cinderella,’ she was a female titan of industry who ran her business successfully right up until she split her estate between her children and grandchildren in 1906, just four years before her death.

One of Katowice’s most famous daughters, Maria Goeppert-Mayer (1906-1972), would be awarded the Nobel for Physics in 1963 (along with J. Hans D. Jensen and Eugene Wigner) for discoveries concerning nuclear shell structure. She came from a well-known Silesian family of intellectuals – her father was a doctor, her grandfather a lawyer, her great-grandfather was the founder of the Botanical Gardens in Wrocław (part of the Natural History Museum), and her great-greatgrandfather was a professor of pharmacy. Sheesh, the bar was set high for this family, huh?! and later repeatedly extended the exemptions to 1907, 1912 and then 1922. For this reason, despite the number of women and minors employed in mining and smelting decreasing across Europe, their numbers in Upper Silesia actually increased steadily in the latter part of the 19th century. Thanks to official statistics, we know that Upper Silesian mining and smelting employed 6,800 women in 1875, 8,400 women in 1880, and 12,000 women in 1889.

March – June 2018

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Women of Silesian Industry In 1912, just before the outbreak of World War I, of 117,585 people employed in coal mining in Upper Silesia, 5,835 were under 16 and 5,711 were women (almost all over 16). There were an additional 2,800 females working in ore mining. For comparison, in the same year the Dortmund mining area in western Germany reported a total of 363,879 workers in coal mines, of which only 1,501 were minors and none were women. As often happens in times of war, manpower shortfalls are made up using any means possible, and in the case of both World Wars the shortfall created by men enlisting in the German military was made up by women and minors (then later propped up by slave labour). After Silesia became part of Poland following World War II, it was still not uncommon to see women - many of them recently widowed with families to provide for - doing the same hard physical labour as men.

Despite the unprecedented numbers of Silesian women employed in the industrial sector in the 19th and early 20th centuries, they were still vastly outnumbered by men at every position, of course. During Prussian rule Die Drei K (the 3 Ks) - Kinder, Küche und Kirche (Children, Kitchen and Church) - were the accepted ethos for Silesian women, with strong Catholic sensibilities the rockbed of Silesian society even today. During the communist era, Silesian miners were

INDUSTRIADA

09.06 SATURDAY INDUSTRIADA 2018 Silesia is known for its industrial tourism - and it even has its own festival for you to experience the best of what Industrial sites Silesia has to offer. Spend a day riding the narrow-gauge railway, visiting mine shafts, learning about iron casting and match production, touring old power plants, and generally exploring all the unique things the region has to offer. In Katowice alone, you can visit the Porcelain Factory (M-4), Silesian Museum (p.54), the Wilson Shaft Gallery (p.62), the Nikiszowiec (p.61) and Giszowiec (p.62) districts and last, but not least, Walcownia Cynku: Zinc Metallurgy Museum (p.54). This year’s edition takes place on Saturday 09 June with the theme being, as you now know, ‘Silesian Women of Industry’.QEvent takes place in various locations, www.industriada.pl.

8 Katowice In Your Pocket

Queen Louisa Adit in Zabrze (p.65).

Photo: R. Kaźmierczak

paid well above the average Polish salary (and still are today), allowing women whose husbands worked in the industrial sector the luxury of not working at all, with many adhering to a more traditional domestic role of raising children.

Those that did pursue careers generally did so in sectors traditionally associated with women, like nursing and teaching. With most of the men in the mines and generally removed from cultural and social life, Silesian women rose to prominence and power both at home and within their communities. Although across Europe industrialisation was seen as an almost Dickensian dystopia responsible for destroying families, in Silesia it led to the emancipation of women, who were more educated and sophisticated than their male counterparts. Women organised social club and associations, including the patriotic 'Związek Towarzystw Polek' (Association of Polish Women) that even took part in the Silesian Uprisings, often in the role of nurses.

The statistics for life expectancy in Silesia at the height of industrialisation are shocking and worth noting in the larger context. The average life expectancy of men was 40, whereas women could expect to live to about 70. The reasons were simple – men would forego education to work in mines and provide for their families; many would die in mining accidents, many were sent off to fight in wars, and others would die young due to health complications connected to their vocation, not to mention alcoholism. Most women, on the other hand, did not face the dangers of the mine, their lives instead revolving around education, family and cultural life. Far more women received higher education in Silesia than men, leading to emancipation through education.

And what of the industrious Silesian women of today?

About 10% of women in Silesia are still employed in the mining industry, however 50% of those work in higher administrative positions, while the other 50% work above ground operating coal refining machinery.

There is a lot to take in with this fascinating subject and we have just scratched the surface here, but if you wish to learn more, we highly recommend visiting the Silesian Museum (p.54), and if you're in the area on June 9th, attending Industriada 2018 (celebrating Silesia's industrial history through its old monuments), whose theme this year is 'Women of Industry.' If this topic is your thing, attending is an absolute must! iyp.me/katowice

Silesian Stadium

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March – June 2018

9

Arrival & Transport

Katowice Train Station

BY TRAIN For decades Katowice had a serious PR problem in the menacing shape of its own central train station - a truly ghastly architectural abomination that sheltered all manner of strange smells and a host of dubious characters.

Having ourselves survived many a close encounter with tunnel dwelling riffraff and several existential dilemmas while commiserating in the communist era cafeteria, we are overjoyed to announce that those days are gone and no longer will travellers have to live in fear of drawing near to this huge communication hub. The loooong awaited, fully renovated and totally reconceptualised Katowice train station officially opened in October 2012 and was fully operational from April 2013. The finished product is indeed a thing of beauty (wait, are we still in Katowice?), and while it will undoubtedly take time for some people to fully scrub the industrial stain of the old train station from their memory, those arriving in the city for the first time will find themselves greeted by a fully modern metropolis that exceeds expectations. Congrats Katowice, it’s nice to meet you.

KATOWICE TRAIN STATION With a total investment estimated at 240 million euros, the new station welcomes 12 million passengers per year with 520 trains running through it every 24 hours. The station also incorporates an enormous and modern shopping mall (Galeria Katowicka) and an underground parking 10 Katowice In Your Pocket

lot, with additional shopping and entertainment venues on Szewczyk Square. The regional bus station under the station is already operational so if you are travelling somewhere in Silesia beyond Katowice, or on your way to the airport, head down one of the escalators in the main train terminal to grab a bus.

Besides the bevvy of modern conveniences and prestige the new station brings, perhaps the greatest advantage is its location and full integration as a local, national and international transport hub. From Sep-Jun, there are 8 daily trains from Katowice to Krakow at 3:34, 5:30, 7:21, 7:38, 11:05, 16:00, 16:29, 19:14 (check site from December onward in case of change to timetable). In July and August there are 9 direct trains from Katowice to Kraków. Departure times: 03:22; 05:27; 07:19; 07:30; 07:48; 11:13; 15:32; 16:23; 19:16. The average journey time is between 2:05 - 2:15. It is also possible to travel between the cities of the Silesian Metropolis by local train (Koleje Śląskie) from around 5ammidnight; the trip to Zabrze is about 20 minutes, to Gliwice 30 minutes. Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow timetables while arrivals (przyjazdy) are white. The ticket offices for Intercity Trains are open 24hrs and for Koleje Śląskie 05:00 - 21:30. For connections to other destinations in Poland or abroad, check the website or call the infoline.QB‑4, Pl. Szewczyka, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs.

Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. iyp.me/katowice

Arrival & Transport

BY PLANE

TRANSPORT TOOLS/APPS

KATOWICE AIRPORT Katowice Airport is located 34km north east of Katowice in Pyrzowice, with frequent shuttle bus connections to and from Katowice. Two Departure Terminals, A and B, are situated side by side with a brand new Terminal C serving as the main Arrivals hub. Terminal C raises the airport’s projected passenger capacity from 3.6-4 million annual passengers to 5.5-6 million. All three terminals feature spotless toilets, money exchange counters, ATMs, information points, refreshment stops, pharmacy and car rental counters.

The Airport has also recently updated its Business Traveller services for more comfortable arrivals and departures.

Services included an expanded Business Lounge, Fast Track check in and a new Meet & Assist program that provides all encompassing concierge and valet services. For more info check out their new website.

Taxis wait directly outside and can deliver you to Katowice for 95-160zł. (always confirm price first). ‘Airport Bus Service’/’Matuszek’ shuttle service makes the same journey for only 25zł (to Kraków for 50zł), and departure times from in front of both terminals are coordinated with flight arrivals (shuttles are even cheaper if you book online).

Dropping off at Pl. Andrzeja (A-4), you can pay cash to the driver on the spot or book ahead on their website: www. matuszek.com.pl.

Airport Buses arrive (and depart) in the new local bus terminal located under the central train station in the city center and you can find their schedule here: www.pkm. katowice.pl/lotnisko. Full schedules for flights, as well as other essential travel information can be found at the userfriendly www.katowice-airport.com. Qul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 392 72 02, www.katowiceairport.com.

JAKDOJADE Despite the fact that Katowice’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the katowice.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful and free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple euros you’ll spend to download it.

E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Katowice, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only).

MYTAXI The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: mytaxi.com.

UBER Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company recently opened their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Silesia and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

Katowice-Pyrzowice Airport

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UserPiotrus, CC BY-SA 3.0

March – June 2018 11

Arrival & Transport

BY BUS

BY CAR

BUS STATION To call Katowice Bus Station (B-2) a ‘bus station’ is a bit of a misnomer. In reality, it’s little more than a small tin shed. Inside you’ll find a small waiting room (open 06:00 - 20:00) and all departures (odjazdy) and arrival times (przyjazdy) noted up on the board (most tickets have to be purchased directly from bus drivers). Outside the few departure lanes offer very little shelter from the elements but there is a drink and snacks shack, and a 24hr bathroom.

Located in the heart of town next to the new Supersam shopping mall, to get your bearing after arrival take a swift left turn at ul. Mickiewicza (B-2) and within three minutes you’ll find yourself staring at the principal main street, ul.

Stawowa (B-2). You’ll have to go further onto the Rynek (C3) to find the nearest tourist information point, however.

While it doesn’t offer tickets or phone cards (buy those at most kiosks), it does offer maps and advice and there is also internet. F​ or info on local city buses see Public Transport.

QB‑2, ul. Skargi 1, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 15, www. katowicedworzec.pl.

CAR RENTAL AVIS Avis is Poland’s biggest car rental company and offers a complete range of vehicles for rent throughout Poland.

They are located in the city center in Altus and at ul.

Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 601 35 48 12.

Open Mon-Fri 08:00-00:30, Sat & Sun 09:00-00:00.QD‑3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 257 20 70, www. avis.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. EUROPCAR Europcar offers a full range of vehicles from small hatchbacks, through Mercedes and up to mini-bus and vans. Check the website for additional offers. Also at ul.

Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 32 285 50 41, Open 09:00 - 24:00.QA‑1, ul. Chorzowska 50, tel. (+48) 32 209 57 45, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun, The offices can be staffed outside of these hours for extra payment.

A wide range of cars including BMW, Skoda, Kia, Opel and Nissan.

All cars are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website.

QC‑3, Al. Korfantego 9 (Katowice Hotel), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 67, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.

12 Katowice In Your Pocket

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.

All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/ alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer.

You can use your home driving license or an international driving permit for six months from the entry date on your passport. Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

Katowice is a straight 75km drive west from Kraków along the A4 highway, one of the better stretches of road in the country, but it’s smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. Toll gates can be found at either end at which you will need to pay 20zł if driving a car. This brings you in on Al. Górnośląska (J-5). The other major route in will bring you along route 79 onto ul. Chorzowska (B-1). Driving around Katowice can be a bit hellish for those uninitiated to the complexity of the city’s oneway streets and the constant presence of roadwork, so we recommend you ditch your vehicle at the earliest opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is also available and generally operates under the control of a local parking warden. He will be wandering along his patch wearing a bib of some colour checking to see who’s naughty and nice. Parking prices are 2 zł for the first hour, 2,40zł for the second hour, 2,80zł for the third and 2zł per hour after that.

GUARDED PARKING QL‑4, ul. Sikorskiego 20, tel. (+48) 660 78 85 51. iyp.me/katowice

Arrival & Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT An extremely well developed system of trams and buses operated by the wonderfully named KZK GOP provide a simple and fast way of getting around Katowice and its surrounding towns. The tickets for the network are valid for both buses and trams. A three-zone system is used, of which Katowice is in zone-one and Chorzów in zone-two.

Accordingly, a one-zone ticket is required for the former and a two-zone ticket for travelling between the two. A onezone ticket costs 3.20zł and now also serves as a 15min ticket allowing you to swap forms of transport (bus to tram and onto a different tram for instance) within that time period.

A two-zone ticket costs 3.80zł and also serves as a 30min ticket. There is also a three-zone/one-hour ticket available for 4.80zł. A 14zł 24hr ticket allows travel within all three zones, though it’s hard to imagine getting your money’s worth out of this without spending the whole day on the tram. Okay, we admit, there’s not much reason to get off.

Almost all travel within Katowice and Chorzów can be accomplished using trams, most of which run through the stop at the Rynek. Tram numbers 6, 11 and 19 run between the Rynek and Chorzów via the Silesia Park and is the most useful tram for getting there and back. Tickets can be bought from any kiosk, or from bright yellow machines found at many tram stops around the city. Make sure you validate your ticket when entering the tram or bus.

The penalty for riding without a validated ticket is 90zł (plus the price of the ticket) on the spot. (The normal price of the fine if you don’t pay on the spot is 160zł + price of ticket.)

KATOWICE PUBLIC TRANSPORT COMPANY Qtel. (+48) 32 743 84 46, www.kzkgop.com.pl.

TAXIS Taxis are more honest than they were once were in Poland but it still pays to be on your guard especially when getting into a taxi at the main train station or airport. Make sure you choose a clearly marked taxi with a phone number displayed as well as a sticker showing its prices which you should find in the window. Check the price with the driver before setting off and make sure he turns his meter on.

Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt for your journey. Most firms will charge you 7zł to get in and then a further 3zł per kilometre when travelling in the city.

Travelling outside of city limits and at night is likely to cost up to 50% more than normal.

AIRPORT TAXI SERVICE Qtel. (+48) 784 84 68 66, www.taxipyrzowice.pl.

CITY TAXI Qtel. (+48) 32 203 77 77, www.citytaxi.katowice.pl.

ECHO TAXI Qtel. (+48) 32 201 42 00, www.echotaxi.com.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

TAXI TRANSFER KATOWICE They provide “door to door” taxi service to and from the airport, day trips and of course jetting about town.

Their fully licensed fleet of vehicles is available 24/7 and always at a fixed rate. Their Southern Poland airport coverage includes Katowice Pyrzowice, Kraków Balice, Wroclaw Airport and even both Chopin and Modlin Airports in Warsaw (and the city centre). They will have their driver waiting to pick you up, sign in hand, 10 minutes after the plane lands.Qtel. (+48) 888 42 68 88, www.taxi-transfer.pl/en.

ENGLISH SERVICE TAXI This is a totally new standard of taxi service in Katowice.

All of their experienced drivers are fluent in English and all of the taxis in their fleet are Audis and Mercedes. Of course each car also comes equipped with air-conditioning, wi-fi and on board credit card terminals (Visa, Mastercard, American Express).

Whether you are going to and from the airport or travelling to a meeting across town, your comfort and ease of travel is always paramount. So forget about being overcharged by a shady driver barking demands in languages you can’t understand. This is a taxi you can truly trust.Qtel. (+48) 607 61 51 21, www.etaxi.katowice.pl.

-taxi

your english service taxi

March – June 2018 13

City Basics HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.

For urgent medical emergencies, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic (p.77), thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

LAW & ORDER In general Katowice is safer than most West European cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Perhaps the biggest danger in Silesia (and PL in general) is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away.

Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.

Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself, just make sure it’s not in front of the law. Those who fail to mind their manners may well be treated to a trip to Katowice’s premier drunk tank (ul. Macieja 10), a chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course).

Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see p.13) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.

14 Katowice In Your Pocket

MARKET VALUES Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of February 28, 2018 based on €1 = 4.17zł McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.20 zł 1.89 zł 29.90 zł 3.29 zł 7.00 zł 2.69 zł 16.00 zł 4.91 zł 3.20 zł

€ 2.45 € 0.45 € 7.17 € 0.79 € 1.68 € 0.65 € 3.84 € 1.18 € 0.77

MONEY Poland has it’s own national currency, called the Polish złoty (sign: zł; code: PLN). As part of Poland’s ascension into the European Union, adoption of the Euro is obligatory, however there is no set date on which the country must switch to the Euro. At present it seems unlikely that Poland will adopt the Euro before 2019.

Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of kantors in Katowice that won’t rip you off, see page 77.

Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destination, prices in Poland and especially Kraków have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema costs 10-30zł, while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.

Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket, though? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, they are essential if you intend to pay in cash, so hang on to your change - you’ll need it.

Although well behind in terms of service and properly stocking the register before opening for business, Poland is ahead of the curve when it comes to cashless iyp.me/katowice

City Basics transactions. Credit or debit can be used just about anywhere (except for obwarzanki vendors and outdoor markets). Those making purchases with a credit card whose base currency isn’t Polish złoty, should beware however (and unless you’re Polish, this probably means you). If you are asked by a merchant, wait staff or on the card reader itself whether you want to be charged in your home currency or PLN, always choose złoty. Why? Because the companies that process credit card transactions typically tack on fees for converting the money, and then do so at a lousy exchange rate.

Depending on the size and number of your purchases while in Poland, the cost can really add up. Visitors should be vigilant and monitor receipts when paying with a credit card - should you be charged in your card’s original currency, don’t be afraid to insist on having your purchase refunded and charged again in złoty.

RELIGION According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. Native son Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm for the Church a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time, and the droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Katowice’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect.

WATER Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the quality of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the water that is delivered from your tap. We therefore recommend that you use bottled water which is widely available and inexpensive. The best known bottled local brands are Żywiec, Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Nałęczowianka. In restaurants many tourists are surprised to find a glass of water is not compulsory, and ordering some typically results in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet your whistle. Beer is often a better bet since it’s cheaper and arrives in larger quantities, but if you’re set on having water it’s best to learn the difference between gazowana (carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water). iyp.me/polandblog

LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Katowice and may even win you friends and admirers.

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.

This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri)

Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is...

Mam na imię...

I’m from England.

Jestem z Anglii Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku?

I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku.

I don’t understand.

Nie rozumiem.

Two beers, please.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Cheers!

Na zdrowie!

Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety?

You are beautiful.

Jesteś piękna.

I love you.

Kocham cię.

Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Call me!

Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyelskoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

March – June 2018 15

What’s On

Exhibition Filip Dujardin: Overview

EVENTS BY DATE 22.11 - 22.04 » THE RHYTHM OF REBELLION: AVANT-GARDE IN INTERWAR POLAND

1917 is generally accepted as a hallmark year in terms of the entrance of the avant-garde movement in Poland. Since last year marked the centennial of the movement’s presence in our country, you might have observed a number of exhibits dedicated to artworks and artists that embodied this style. This is one such exhibit, which also looks at the avant-garde movement within the overlapping interwar period in Poland from 1918 to 1939. Featured are works of well-known artists that were tied to the movement; their works undoubtedly served as great influences for the artists that followed them in later years.QTickets 8/5zł, www. muzeum.bytom.pl.

10.03 19:30 » ILLUSION

Illusion is undoubtedly one of the most important rock bands in the country, dating back to 1992. Their first concert was in Gdańsk, with members Tomasz Lipnicki, Jerzy Rutkowski and Paweł Herbasch. That same year, Jarosław Śmigiel joined the group and they have had the same band lineup ever since. This year, they’re on tour promoting their newest album, Anhedonia, which is their first album to be released in 4 years.QFabryka Porcelany, ul. Porcelanowa 23, Tickets from 50zł available at www. biletomat.pl, www.pwevents.pl.

16 Katowice In Your Pocket

10.03 » BEFORE JAZZART FESTIVAL: TOMASZ DĄBROWSKI & AD HOC | STRINGS

In this pre-festival concert, exquisite Polish trumpet player Tomasz Dąbrowski will share the stage with three talented musicians from Japan and perform their shared project. Considering the artists’ rather sizeable geographic distances between them, this concert is quite the rare occasion, and definitely worth seeing live. You might be surprised to learn that the performance, featuring subtle, rhythmic beats reminiscent of electronic music interwoven with punchy, strong trumpet sounds, all arose in just one night as a result of some really high-level improv talent.

QL‑3, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Tickets 18/23zł available at www. ticketportal.pl, www.jazzartfestival.eu/en.

14.03 - 30.03 » EASTER FAIR

After December’s Christmas Fair, it’s time for the Easter Fair - this time around the wooden stalls will be filled with decorated eggs, woven baskets, sheep made out of sugar lumps, Easter palms, seasonal baked goods, and various pastel-colored craft items. Might be a good place to pick up a souvenir or two and sample some rye soup and dumplings.QC‑3/4, Rynek, www.jarmarkslaski.pl.

@KatowiceIYP iyp.me/katowice

What’s On 18.03 17:00 » METRO

Ever feel like life is just too hard, and it would all be better if we just up and moved into the subway tunnels? Well, if you’re not yet ready to take the plunge into a new underground life just yet, you can do the next best thing: check out how it might look—in musical form, with extra special and glamorous lighting effects and scenography to boot. Metro is one of Poland’s most famous and successful musicals—with over 300 shows performed since 1991, there’s probably a Guinness record in there somewhere.

And, like any good musical, it’s a tale of dreams and failures, passion and betrayal, youthful ideals and the allure of money—all framed within nothing other than a story of love.QD‑1, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, Tickets 79-299zł, www.edmart.pl.

PUPPET’S AWARENESS

19.03 - 25.03 » SPANISH FILM WEEK

One week, 9 Polish cities, and a whole lot of film. As the title suggests, Spanish Film Week provides a glimpse into the world of Spanish film—presenting some of the country’s most important and most popular recently released flicks. The best way to cultivate new potential tourists is through film, don’t you think? Even if you aren’t planning a springtime vacation, this might just be the ideal time to do a little cinematic-style getaway of sorts.QB‑3, Światowid, ul. 3 Maja 7, tel. (+48) 32 258 74 32, www.swiatowid.katowice.pl.

JADWIGA MYDLARSKA-KOWAL’S THEATRE OF FORMS

10.02–22.04.2018

23.03 19:00 » L.U.C.

One of Poland’s most multi-dimensional hip hop artists Łukasz Rostkwoski, AKA L.U.C., will be hitting up the Chorzów Cultural Centre stage this fall. This is the last time you’ll be able to hear the setlist from his coveted Reflekcje album, an eclectic and unique album that arguably put him on the map as not just a rapper but an artist in his own right. The album, featuring collaborations with various international artists and incorporating styles like poetry, electronic music as well as club music, basically won over the internet and also put L.U.C. in front of millions of new fans worldwide.QP‑4, Chorzów Cultural Centre, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 349 78 60, Tickets 40zł available at www.ticketportal.pl.

We invite you to visit

Zinc Metallurgy Museum The Rolling Mill built in 1904 is a landmark that is inscribed in the industrial heritage of the region.

23.03 19:00 » NATALIA PRZYBYSZ / MIKROMUSIC / ODET

These 3 artists are touring to 8 Polish cities this spring, ambitiously testing just exactly how much oestrogen one stage can handle—on top of promoting some newlyreleased albums. Natalia Przybysz is a vocal powerhouse known for her trademark sensual R&B and soulful tunes, occasionally enhanced by some cello mastery. Mikromusic is a band led by vocalist Natalia Grosiak, and they are most known for the way they eloquently play between the lines of jazz, trip hop, rock, with an occasional sprinkling of folk. The melancholy and yet sharp-witted Odet also presents a unique combination of contrasts between music and lyrics—the multi-talented pianist, vocalist and songwriter likes to take her audiences on a journey through the complexities of what it means to be human.QFabryka Porcelany, ul. Porcelanowa 23, Tickets 75-85zł available at www.pwevents.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

CYNKU

Open 7 days a week 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM ul. 11 Listopada 50, Katowice +48 727 600 186 www.walcownia.org

March – June 2018 17

What’s On 11.05 - 20.05 » KATOWICE KULTURA NATURA FESTIVAL

Don’t let the “natura” in the title throw you for a loop, this festival is all about classical music—featuring outstanding pianists, string quartets, and full orchestras (including the famous Budapest Festival Orchestra). This year, the festival returns for its fourth edition, centred on a rather interesting theme—earth—which is where we might see the connection between the culture and nature aspects of the festival. Check out the lineup and accompanying concerts online.QD‑2, Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, www.kulturanatura.eu.

19.05 » NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

PIANO VIOLIN VOICE STRING QUARTET COMPOSITION

The first Night of Museums took place in Berlin in 1997, and the concept spread through Europe like wildfire: currently over 120 major European cities (and many minor ones) organise their own museum nights. It’s a pretty big deal, with thousands of people heading out to take part and visit museums big or small. If you’re into this kind of stuff, keep in mind that Kraków is organising the event a night early, giving you a chance to swing by both cities (they’re certainly both worth it).QAdmission free.

16.06 16:00 » FESTIVAL OF COLOURS

The world might be becoming increasingly Westernised, but - luckily - culture and customs still flow both ways, and the Indian spring festival of colors and love, Holi, seems to have found more than a few enthusiasts in many European countries, including Poland. The date might be wayyyy off, as the real Holi is traditionally celebrated in March (sometimes February), but you’ve gotta make adjustments for us Northern folk who only get a few months of real warmth.QR‑5, Silesia Park, Al. Różana 2, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 793 70 08, Admission free, www. festiwalkolorow.pl.

28.06 - 01.07 » TAURON NEW MUSIC FESTIVAL

Tauron New Music is as old (young?) and as influential as OFF Festival, and its goal is showcasing the best new electronic music. They have reason to boast, as they won the title of Best Small European Festival at the European Festival Awards in 2010, 2012, and 2014; and they’ve certainly succeeded at popularising Katowice and Silesia.

Plus they get mad props for hosting the festival at a closed coal mine (now the site of the newly opened Silesian Museum), using the region’s industrial landscape to create a unique feel. This year’s lineup is the definition of international and inter-genre, bringing in some of the best and most intriguing musicians and artists in contemporary music from 9 countries spanning 4 continents. In keeping with their promise to deliver the most interesting sounds in contemporary music encapsulating jazz, electronic, and dance rhythms, this year’s musical repertoire ranges from Polish pre-war jazz, Palestinian street music, futuristic techno from Detroit, and soul music from the Antipodes.

Artists like Mura Masa, Errosmith, and Nightmares on 18 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

What’s On Wax are just the tip of the iceberg.QE‑1, Strefa Kultury, ul. Henryka Mikołaja Góreckiego, Tickets 100-169zł, pass tickets for 2 days 239-439zł, pass tickets for 3 days 309-389zł, pass tickets for 4 days 389-439zł, www. festiwalnowamuzyka.pl.

03.08 - 05.08 » OFF FESTIVAL

This is one of the top events that draws crowds to Katowice, a city that just recently shed its image as the capital of the industrial mining region of Silesia and now bears the title of UNESCO Capital of Music — due in no small part to the excellent festivals it hosts. The OFF Festival began in 2006 in Mysłowice, and has since grown considerably, resulting in its relocation to the much larger Dolina Trzech Stawów (Three Pond Valley) in Katowice. Curated by Polish rock royalty Artur Rojek, the festival has a penchant for indie rock, but also invites plenty of hip-hop and experimental artsits to its stages. The 2017 lineup featured PJ Harvey, Feist, Swans, Conor Oberst, Talib Kweli and many more; so far for 2018 Grizzly Bear, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah, Marlon Williams, Turbonegro, Big Freedia, Egyptian Lover, Aldous Harding, Oxbow, Bishop Nehru, King Ayisoba, Jaques Greene and John Maus have been confirmed.QL‑5, Valley of Three Ponds, ul. Trzech Stawów, Pass ticket for 3 days 270-350zł, www.off-festival.pl.

EXHIBITIONS 15.02 - 08.04 » NORMAN LETO: NON-EXISTENT PLACES

Leto operates outside the confines of traditional photography. He jumps between painting, prose, film, and computer graphics as his preferred mediums to enrich his works. The latter is the most interesting, as working with various software programs to manipulate images is what allows the artist to create spaces that don’t exist in reality, and otherwise couldn’t be captured in analogue form. In this sense, photography is seen as a rather fluid concept—a computer-generated image according to algorithms that have been created by the artist. While the spaces represented don’t exactly exist, the artist wants to convince us that this doesn’t make them any more real. Check out the exhibit and decide for yourself.QC‑6, Katowice Miasto Ogrodów, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, Admission free, www.miasto-ogrodow.eu/events/view/ id/117.

10.02 - 22.04 » A DOLL’S CONSCIOUSNESS: JADWIGA MYDLARSKA-KOWAL’S THEATRICAL PUPPETS

Puppet theatre is quite the long-time tradition in Poland; the latter decades of the 20th century saw puppet-making turn into an art form in its own right. Jadwiga MydlarskaKowal, known particularly for her work with the Wrocław Puppet Theatre, is recognised as one such artist; she became known for her expressive and unique style in her creations ranging from doll costumes to scenographic design (and many fine details in between). The exhibit brings to life the many dolls and productions of which they were a part, iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 19

What’s On and provides a look into the world of Mydlarska-Kowal’s creations, as it was seen and lived by the dolls themselves.

A doll-ception of sorts, if you will.QL‑3, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł; Tue free, www. muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

24.05 - 31.05 » SACRED ART OF SILESIA

The exhibit presents treasures from Silesian culture in the form of sculptures and paintings from the Gothic period and modern times. Wartime changed the fate of the collection, where some of it was dispersed. The saved pieces returned to the Silesian Museum in 1996. More than 120 objects are on display in two groups: late Gothic to Renaissance-Baroque and from the 14th-18th century.

The main part of the exhibit symbolizes a sanctuary and encompasses various cultural influences. The modern art section includes European influences like reformation, humanism and counter reformation. Multimedia presentations complete the exhibit by presenting wall art and recent discoveries from Upper Silesia.QL‑3, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł; Tue free, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon.

04.11 - 01.04 » PIVOT: THE BEGINNINGS OF NEO-AVANT-GARDE IN UPPER SILESIA

With 2017 marking the centennial of the avant-garde movement in Poland, this exhibit adds the Silesian context in presenting the artistic and creative scenes throughout the 20th century. In the 1940s/50s, the Upper Silesian area was a hub of arts and culture. It was here that many artists, creatives, and their supporters frequently met, created, co-created, pulled inspiration from their surroundings and each other, and constantly worked on developing their individual skills and honing their craft. The exhibit will present paintings and photographs from numerous artists and photographic circles that were influential during this time, as well as the works of other artists from later on in the 20th century who also pulled inspiration from those that had laid out the groundwork before them.QC‑3, Silesian Museum, Al. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł; Tue free, www. muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 17:00. Closed Mon.

11.11 - 16.09 » MIROSŁAW BAŁKA: „[(.;,:?!–…)]”

While the title of this exhibit might appeal to all you grammar-lovers out there, you’re not the (only) target audience. If you’re not part of the aforementioned group of people in this world who have a penchant for punctuation, you might be scratching your head at this one—and that’s kind of the point. Look a little closer, and you’ll see that the symbols making up the title of the work (and in effect, the immersive, large-scale sculpture to which it refers) actually represent all of the punctuation marks found in the Latin alphabet. In other words, you’re looking at an equation that

20 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

What’s On cannot be solved. Are we sounding abstract enough for you? Why not take a trip to the museum and discover this chain of life-size punctuations for yourself?QL‑3, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł; Tue free, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon.

FILIP DUJARDIN

overview / przegląd

23.02 - 15.04 » FILIP DUJARDIN: OVERVIEW

By day, author and Belgian artist Filip Dujardin is an architectural photographer who is fascinated with the art form of buildings—be they real, imagined, or superimposed. His series of photomontages represent a collection of “impossible structures,” typically consisting of photographs of various architectural faces found in the city of Ghent in Belgium. To create his desired effect, he then uses various digital collage techniques. For this exhibit, Dujardin presents his view of the Katowice skyline and the city’s most quintessential structures. His works illustrate a fine balance between surrealism and the language of the city; and are reminiscent of artists like Magritte and Servais.

QC‑2/3, BWA Contemporary Art Gallery, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, Admission 5,50/3zł, www.bwa. katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

21.10 - 30.04 » HOPE MAKES EVERYTHING POSSIBLE: THE PROTESTANT REFORMATION AND ITS CULTURAL HERITAGE IN SILESIA

2017 marks the 500th anniversary of the Protestant Reformation in Europe, so lots of related exhibits are popping up all over Poland. This is one such exhibit focusing on the Evengelical-Augsburg (Lutheran) church, which aims to provoke reflection concerning current Evangelical ties and beliefs in Silesia. The Reformation brought about large-scale systemic change: it united religion with previously separate spheres such as education; it greatly affected the popularisation of the print medium, and it directly influenced the popular landscapes of music and architecture. This exhibition provides a multi-faceted inquiry on the topic of religion as a belief system in and of itself.QC‑3, Silesian Museum, Al. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł; Tue free, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

24.05 - 31.05 » TRACKING TOMEK

Who lives in teepees? Can dreams be reality? The answers are at the Silesian Museum, at the historic carpentry shop to be exact, where you discover the stories of Alfred Szklarski.

Inspired by Tomek Wilmowski, the main character in the books, you can discover the world through challenges and your senses. All you need to track where Tomek disappeared is your backpack, family and a visit to the world described

by Szklarski. Kids, ages 4-12, can discover distant cultures and learn to work together.QL‑3, Silesian Museum, ul.

Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł; Tue free, www. muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. iyp.me/polandblog

Galeria Sztuki Współczesnej bwa www.bwa.katowice.pl

FILIP DUJARDIN 23.02 - 15.04 » FILIP DUJARDIN: OVERVIEW

By day, author and Belgian artist Filip Dujardin is an architectural photographer who is fascinated with the art form of buildings—be they real, imagined, or superimposed. His series of photomontages represent a collection of “impossible structures,” typically consisting of photographs of various architectural faces found in the city of Ghent in Belgium. To create his desired effect, he then uses various digital collage techniques. For this exhibit, Dujardin presents his view of the Katowice skyline and the city’s most quintessential structures. His works illustrate a fine balance between surrealism and the language of the city; and are reminiscent of artists like Magritte and Servais.QC‑2/3, BWA Contemporary Art Gallery, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, Admission 5,50/3zł, www.bwa.katowice.pl.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

What’s going on? facebook.com/KatowiceInYourPocket March – June 2018 21

Cafés

Coffee Ways, full of treats, will put a smile on your face!

3 SIOSTRY BAJGIEL I KAWA Following a lengthy renovation, 3 Siostry has returned! This trendy and friendly cafe makes Montreal style bagels (a bit sweeter and thicker than their NYC counterparts) and serves them in a variety of savoury sandwich form (egg and bacon, Philadelphia cream cheese with salmon and arugula etc.) We had a hankering for Philadelphia, and our smile got wider with every bite. We ordered up an alternative Aeropress coffee which complemented the sandwich perfectly. Even better than the food and drink is the warm atmosphere and stylish design. We could have sat for hours observing the ebb and flow of happy diners and playful banter between the ‘three sisters’ who are visibly cooking and serving each dish and drink with pure passion.QD‑4, ul. Św. Stanisława 8, tel. (+48) 517 19 25 11. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. T­6­B­S­W

COFFEE WAYS Mariacka street may be known as the place full of bars that you can find cheap snacks, herring and beer or vodka shots to wash it all down with, however, if you wander to the far end, where the church is, this part is more relaxed, down to earth and now a bit nicer than its opposite side. This is in part thanks to new places springing up, just like Coffee Ways (the only cafe on Mariacka!) that sets the tone. Classy, without being snobbish, this cafe is more than just a place to enjoy a tea/coffee and cake, it’s a place to spend time, talk and interact, and it all feels just like being at home! It’s also a place where you can find all day breakfast (still difficult to find in Poland)! I’m sold!QE‑4, ul. Mariacka 37, tel. (+48) 575 79 97 72, www.coffee-ways.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00. T­6­U­ B­S­W

CAFE KATTOWITZ A slice of strudel most divine accompanied our cappuccinos just fine as the porcelain and the silver softly clattered. And so we sat and sipped and occasionally dipped our forks into the flaky pastry pondering – how had we been transported to Vienna so suddenly? The dark woods and high ceilings of this fin-de-siecle cafe were filled with the sputtering sounds of a perfectly polished espresso contraption. We were momentarily pulled from the dream as our waitress implored us to dig deeper into their exquisite menus. All manner of cake and sweets awaited. But as our steam train did approach we saw our waitress’s reproach as we alighted yet to return, ever after.QC‑4, ul. Św. Jana 7, tel. (+48) 32 321 85 08. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. T­B­S­W

KAWIARNIA WAWELSKA On what has developed into Katowice’s coffee and cakes corridor, this newly redesigned cafe stands out as a beacon of warmth and old school charm.

Offering a wide range of bio coffee drinks and tantalising ice cream concoctions you can enjoy your sweet treats in the comfort of their creme coloured interiors. Vegetable smoothies and sandwiches form part of their offerings, which adds some nice healthy balance to all of the sugar and spice and everything nice. When night falls this cafe bares its inner bar and the drinks start flowing like the Vistula past the Wawel.QB‑4, ul. Wawelska 1, tel. (+48) 501 44 83 37. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. T­B ­ S­W

22 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

Cafés KOFEINA CORNER Handily located near the main entrance to Katowice train station, Kofeina Corner is, well, literally on a street corner of 3 Maja and Plac Szewczyka. The interior sums up Katowice with its revamped industrial look, which is enticing on its own, but what’s this? An all day breakfast option?! Kofeina Corner offers precisely that with great creamy scrambled egg with bacon, or bvariety of bagels and English breakfast! Throw in a strawberry and ginger smoothie all for just 12zł. With high quality grub, Kofeina offers a big range of meat feasts (vegetarian option also available) and all at reasonable prices right in the city centre.QB‑3, Pl. Szewczyka 1, tel. (+48) 509 34 12 65. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. T­6­U­B­S­W MONOPOL Inside the hotel of the same name the Monopol’s in-house café bar offers decent coffee and plenty of class with an interior that recalls Katowice’s golden age. Here it’s all fresh cut flowers, marble surfaces and sepia images of the city in its industrial heyday. Floor-to-ceiling windows encourage hurrying passersby to gaze in with envy.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. 6­U­W MOODRO BISTRO & CAFE The Silesian Museum has a lot to offer both tourists and locals alike and that includes its gastronomic offers. If you make the entire journey through the subterranean exhibits and ante-chambers of the Museum, you’ll be delighted to resurface right next to this bright bistro and cafe. You’ll no doubt run into locals already sipping lattes and nibbling light lunches. They may have skipped the museum and headed straight to grab one of the window front tables with a panoramic view of downtown Katowice. Make sure to ask about their breakfast special if you’re an early riser.QK‑3, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1 (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 92 99, www.moodro.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. T­6­U­B­S­W

pastries at the counter, each of which are lovingly spruced up. The menu is seasonal and varies dependent on supply of produce, however, regardless of ingredients, an effort is made to have at least 3-6 different varieties of mousses, including Belgian chocolate and Mango-Maracuya. Choose the breakfast deal of a ‘BąbeLove gofr’ (bubble waffle) with choice of toppings including honey and ricotta, seasonal flavours with ice-creams, cream, fruits and different toppings all accompanied with a tea or coffee.QC‑3, ul.

Moniuszki 3, tel. (+48) 572 81 55 33, www.sweetsilesia. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. T­6B ­ ­ S­W SYNERGIA. DOBRE MIEJSCE The slow coffee movement rolls its way into Silesia and lands in one of the most stylish cafes this town has ever seen. You know they mean business when the first thing you see when you walk in is an array of high and low-tech new school coffee gadgets in rustic wooden crates. The aroma of fresh coffee will lure you further into the elegant environs.

Sink into a couch and choose from Chemex, Drip, Aeropress, Syphon or Espresso press with your choice of “single country of origin” bean. Grab a brownie, pastry, quiche, sandwich or even order one of their tempting lunch specials (of course vegan and gluten free options available). You lucky devils are now spoilt for choice with Synergia opening a 2nd cafe (same name) on ul. Opolska 18.QA‑4, ul. Andrzeja 29/2, tel. (+48) 502 93 02 53. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. T­6­S­W

ŚLĄSKA PRAŻALNIA KAWY CAFE AMOR This classy cafe has a lot to offer for both casual drip-sippers and arabica aficionados alike. They roast their own coffee beans on site and serve up over a dozen unique coffee beverages made with their very own freshly roasted coffee blends. If this isn’t enough they also offer alternative coffee brewing methods for you to try. If coffee isn’t your thing not to worry as they have an extensive list of pressed juices, loose leaf teas plus a distinguished list of fine liquors and wines. Grab a cake, salad or sandwich to go with your beverage of choice then sit back and enjoy this charming Cafe.QB‑5, Pl. Miarki 1, tel. (+48) 792 41 14 94, www.cafeamor.pl. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. T­S­W SWEET HOME SILESIA Inspired by French delicatessens, Sweet Home Silesia brings a little romantic image of Parisian pâtisserie to the heart of Katowice. Located just off the rynek on Moniuszki 3, you enter a pleasant cafe and find a delightful choice of iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 23

Restaurants

A welcome new addition to Nikiszowiec, Śląska Prohibicja (p.63) has a homely vibe, and fantastic food.

Silesia is known to many as a sprawling post-industrial metropolis that is more akin to a culinary wasteland than a growing centre of world-class cuisine for cunning connoisseurs. The last few years have brought drastic changes to the once dreary dining scene and the service industry can now join the esteemed ranks of the coal and steel industries in the area. Many culinary trends have taken hold and ethnic cuisine of all shapes and sizes are vying for your attention and appealing to your appetite. Don’t overlook the local fare either as there is a veritable renaissance happening in Silesian cuisine as well as a plethora of Polish places. The prices we list here in each handpicked recommendation reflect the cheapest and most precious main dishes on the menu. Tipping at least 10% for table service is customary, though it may not always be deserved. Smacznego!

FINE DINING Exclusive restaurants in Katowice come in a range of forms, from serving a mix of interntional and local cuisine, with varied interior decors and food on offer; all a treat to test out. Leading the way in Kato’s gastronomical revolution, we have a few contenders: If it’s post-industrial decor and good meat you’re after, check out Sztolnia (p.27). If you like to eat high up and closer to the sun, try Restauracja Sunlight (p.27) with its seasonal menu. Tatiana (p.34) just up from the Rynek serves a mix of European and Slavic dishes in a very pleasant and elegant setting.

INTERNATIONAL The gastro revolution is not limited to traditional or local cuisine, as with any destination, choice is the key, and we certainly have that with a host of international eateries in 24 Katowice In Your Pocket

Kato. If you’re searching for Indian food ranging from mild to spicy, try out Buddha (p.29)! New kid on block Novo (p.35) has a rather impressive looking stone baked oven which churns out all your favourite delights with authentic taste. Hana Sushi (p.36) offers, well, no prizes for guessing what, but the location in a former brick building once home to a swimming pool looks great and the food on offer is as you’d expect, really good.

FAST CASUAL If it’s something relatively quick you want and at decent prices without scimping back on quality, Kato has a lot to offer in this regard, and some of our noted adventures have highglighted the following: making the leap from food truck to having a real home, Nasze Bao (p.25) serves up some great Asian street food. Zdrowa Krowa (p.26) is hot on the heels of the good burger trend in Poland and Zielony Most (p.28) provides a good vegetarian option. If you’re craving some good seafood, specifically swimming crustaceans, Shrimp House (p.37) finally offers up good quality shrimp, which has been lacking in Silesia until now!

FAMILY DINING Family options too are easily found in Kato, serving food from more adventurous meals for adults and classics for kids. First to mention following its recent renovation is Patio (p.32), which does just that with various meats dishes, pizzas, pastas etc. Steakhouse Da Da (p.34) is straight to the point, offering fine steak cuts from around the world, all served by friendly staff. For an authentic Polish feel, Chata z Zalipia (p.38) serves up traditional Polish food in a design reminiscent of a cottage interior, one for all to enjoy. iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

B Outside seating

AMERICAN CITY ROCK If you crossed Hard Rock Cafe with a classic American diner in a Polish laboratory, you might end with something like City Rock, where motorbikes, guitars, 50s pinups, Elvis and even a full-sized Formula 1 car are attached to the creamy chocolate coloured walls. The pre-pubescent boy in you will love it and that’s before the team of local beauties appears to present you with the easy English menu of TexMex, fried food, ice cream sundaes, milkshakes, wood-oven pizza, burgers and obligatory Polish dishes - choose from lame-named items like ‘Easy Chick’ and ‘Grinch Spaghetti,’ or why not try to push your luck and ask the Miss Polska serving you for a ‘Texas Mama’. Incredibly popular and kind of great for all the wrong reasons. ‘Guitar Wednesday’ concerts take place every week from 18:00.QB‑1, ul.

Chorzowska 9B, tel. (+48) 32 201 05 05, www.cityrock. pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (17-60zł). T­U­E­B­S­W

ASIAN HURRY CURRY Bringing some heat to the street and some spice to Katovice, this hot spot is turning heads and filling stomachs.

Started by a couple of travellers with the simple idea of offering a selection of curries from all over the world served up quick and sold for cheap. The results are utterly delicious and borderline revolutionary for the city’s budding ethnic restaurant scene. With a limited but diverse menu, you’ll find something new just for you. The design is cosy yet cool and the service is quick so even if you’re in a hurry you can make time for their curry. Top marks all around. Also at at ul. Panewnicka 25A.QD‑4, ul. Św. Stanisława 1, tel. (+48) 511 43 36 63, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (16-33zł). 6­S­W

VEGAN & VEGETARIAN FOOD COFFEE SPECIALTY

Henryka Sienkiewicza Str. No 27 40-031 Katowice (032) 724 18 36 fb/botanikato

Stanisława 1, 40-014 Katowice tel. 511 433 663 www.hurrycurry.pl Curries from all over the world

NASZE BAO We love it when our favourite food trucks go all brick and mortar. This is the case with Kato’s newest Asian fast food sensation. After just one bite of their savoury and spicy calamari bun (aka bao for those in the know) we were hooked. While they certainly upgraded their digs, this basement nook isn’t exactly a full blown restaurant. The iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 25

Restaurants BURGERS

open kitchen is bigger than the 3-4 improvised tables and stools at the bar. But since the menu still consists of mostly Asian street food, the buns are built for the road. But when the weather turns we will happily huddle in the corner and devour another one of their fluffy boa, or perhaps scarf down a bowl of Pho Bo. If you want to stick to the ole food truck option, no more, dear friends, for Nasze Bao’s former garden location has gone all brick and mortar on ul. Panewnicka 77 too.QC‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 600 37 76 05, www.naszebao.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (15-25zł). 6­B­S­W

BREAKFAST COOLER CLUB & FOOD Cooler club on Mariacka street is where you can go for food during the day, just make sure not to turn up too early expecting to dance your socks off as it also functions as a club on Fri & Sat 21:00-05:00. Open daily from 13:00, Cooler serves up some mean food with a range of burgers, grilled meats, steaks, soups, vegetarian dishes, pasta dishes, and even Polish classics like pierogi, all the way through to dessert.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 20/1, tel. (+48) 508 24 91 98, www. coolerclub.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (15-65zł). ­T­6­B­S­W MAD MICK The requisite ‘Hipster Burger Bar and Bistro’ has firmly planted its flag in Silesian soil. Now Katowice has its own jumping joint to boast about. Mad Mick serve up thick slabs of juicy steaks, mouth watering burgers and tortillas day and night. With a vast array of Czech microbrews to chase down your chow of choice, settle into a comfy seat before you meet your meat. Besides the full menu of carnivorous treats, Mick also offers up salads, snacks, baguettes and sandwiches.QD‑4, ul. Warszawska 13, tel. (+48) 535 46 68 66, www. madmick.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-44zł). 6­S­W ZDROWA KROWA Literally translated as “healthy cow” this Gliwice burger bistro is now in Katowice. Their mission seems to be to re-brand burgers as a legitimately healthy option touting the quality of their locally sourced ingredients and abundance of veggies tossed between their freshly baked buns. With a truly expansive menu of over a dozen different specialty beef burgers and a handful of chicken, shrimp, and veggie/vegan options, choosing the right sandwich is a truly daunting task. If you’re really looking to eat light, order one of their colourful and flavourful salads.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 33, tel. (+48) 730 10 15 20, www.zdrowakrowa.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (15-64zł). T­6­U­V­ B­S­W 26 Katowice In Your Pocket

PETIT We can’t remember the last time we got so excited about a breakfast place. Immediately upon entry the warm and welcoming interiors and delicious aromas wafting from the kitchen get the juices flowing. The menu delights and intrigues variations of eggs and omelettes all vying for your attention. But once our eyes landed on the English muffin with egg, bacon and hollandaise sauce, the search was over. Creamy-crunchy-blissful-breakfast-ecstasy is all we can say. If the food wasn’t enough, their gourmet coffee drinks and exclusive teas are equally enticing. Breakfast is served till 14:00, after which, they serve only coffee/tea and cakes! All of their pastries and baked goods (vegan and gluten free options also) are available for take away. Petit is quite simply a small slice of perfect.QD‑3, ul. Wojewódzka 21, tel. (+48) 515 99 90 70. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (7-20zł). T­6­S­W

CZECH HOSPODA History and geography have preordained close ties between Silesia and the Czech Republic. While ‘close’ doesn’t always mean friendly, this hopping Hospoda could downright double as the Czech Embassy for all the love it shows to their southern neighbours. Of course the first test of a true Czech pub is its beer selection. Hospoda passes with flying colours with delicious Bohemian brews like Cerna Hora, Kozel Dark, Vit and Pilsner on tap plus at least 30 other bottles on deck (Gambrinus, Radegast, Budvar and a boatload more). If you’re wondering about the grub, czech out their classic fried cheese, garlic soup and goulash with dumplings. If you’ve never been to Prague, just throw on a Walkman with some Jaromir Nohavica, curl up in a corner with a dark Kozel or two and prepare to be telePortered.

QJ‑3, ul. Gliwicka 6/1 (entrance from ul. Sobieskiego), tel. (+48) 793 89 65 30, www.hospoda.pl. Open 14:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. (13-15zł). B­X­S­W

FRENCH C’EST SI BON Certainly one of Katowice’s finer restaurants, the service may not be as cheerful as the interior full of lavender plants, lilac table clothes, candleholders and sun icons, but the iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants food is top-notch, as testified by the long list of companies C’est Si Bon does regular catering for. The menu is in Polish, French and English, and still full of rich, delicious dishes like the hearty ‘Provencal seafood soup’ or the onion soup with gruyere cheese for just 9zł. Bon Apetite!QB‑5, ul. Ligonia 4, tel. (+48) 32 781 68 48, www.cestsibon.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (22-66zł). 6­U­B­S­W

FUSION RESTAURACJA SUNLIGHT Located on the ground floor of the Angelo Hotel, it’s worth getting a room upstairs just for convenient access to this exquisite restaurant. A perfect cure for seasonal Silesian depression, Sunlight justifies its slightly hokey name with a modern, spirit-lifting interior of warm colours and wall to floor length windows. No effort is spared with the food, including regularly reinvented seasonal menus in addition to the regular card full of locally-inspired fusion dishes. The menu even includes accompanying wine recommendations. Two or three course business lunches are served in the adjacent Jazz Bar (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00) for 38 or 45zł respectively. They also recently opened Steak Corner

by Jazz Bar where you can order mouth watering steaks and burgers.QB‑2, ul. Sokolska 24 (angelo by Vienna House Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 783 81 56, www.viennahouse. com. Open 17:00 - 22:00. (25-79zł). T­U­B­W SZTOLNIA. CHLEB. MIĘSO. WINO Someone forgot to tell Poland that restaurants near Malls are supposed to be bland, corporate run, flair-wearing affairs only. Sztolnia not only blows that notion out of the water, but it’s one of the best restaurants in town. One look at their open concept industrial-yet-rustic, dining room and you’ll begin to see why. After a very recent renovation, the dining area has been expanded, and the restaurant now has a confectionery section, winery, and banquet hall all held in a huge 1000m2 space! Once you’ve settled and had a look at the laid back and eclectic menu filled with fusion treats and grilled aged meats, they’ll have won you over. And once you’re served your meal, they’ll have fully sealed the deal. Hand to heart, our perfect Angus beef steak, grilled potatoes, selection of green salad leaves, cheese sauce was impeccable. They have a great daily breakfast promo - your choice of coffee or tea for 1 zł with any breakfast order between 11:00 -12:00. They also serve a 3-course lunch Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for 33zł. Silesia City Center just got a whole lot closer.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 109 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 506 78 87 75, www.sztolnia.katowice. pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (19-74zł). U­B­S­W

Cooler Club & Food ul. Mariacka 20/1 Katowice www.coolerclub.pl klub@coolerclub.pl fbcoolerfood /coolerclub/

Godziny otwarcia: FOOD Tue-Thu 13:00 - 23:00 CLUB Fri-Sat 21:00 - 5:00

GERMAN WUNDERBAR A pleasing bar-restaurant kitted out with pots, pans, chiming clocks and all manner of assorted country trumpery. The menu here is pretty much as you expect from a Bavarian themed eatery with a bit of a Polish twist.

Try the Krupnik soup with goose stomachs or the half duck iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 27

Restaurants VEGETARIAN

baked with apples. If you really mean business then try the Baked Pork Knuckle on for size. Wash it all down with some tried and true German brew - wheat Weihenstephan or Weihenstephan Pils.QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 2, tel. (+48) 32 781 76 90, www.wunderbar.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00.

(28-69zł). T­B­S­W

GREEK Botanika

BOTANIKA Nestled nicely into the basement and first floor of one of the brownstones (yes Katowice has brownstones!) on one of our favourite streets is this vegetarian and vegan treat. As the name suggests, they are all about cooking up hearty and healthy meals pulled straight from the garden. The specials include vegan and gluten free meals like: soups, Italian cabbage lecho, Parsley pesto tagliatelle (with vegan parmesan no less) and a spinach and zucchini yellow curry to knock your socks off. They serve up mighty fine coffee too with specially selected beans. The multicoloured meals match the warm woods, climbing vegetation and exposed brick walls of this comfy and friendly bistro and cafe.QC‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 32 724 18 36. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (9-25zł). T­6­E­B­S­W BUJNA This newly opened vege-vegan restaurant is right across from the main train station in Katowice - if you so wish, you can do a few forward rolls and be there in a jiffy (you’ll be dizzy, but you’ll be there nonetheless). A family run business, all with a passion for healthy living, this restobar also has a shop; they compliment each other, as everything you eat here can be purchased in said shop. Soups of the day are a delightful surprise, as are the choice of wraps. Most interesting was the soy-dog along with a fantastic freshly made juice! Stay healthy, stay mindful, and enjoy your visit.QB‑4, ul. Młyńska 17, tel. (+48) 531 33 12 00, www.bujna.business.site/.

Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. (16-24zł). T­6­B­S­W ZIELONY MOST Katowice seems to be getting greener by the day, and we’re not just talking about the grass on the International Congress Centre. This vegetarian/vegan bistro is the latest gastronomic outpost to offer up a full menu of lunch and dinners without harming a hair on an animal’s head.

Seek the specials board which proclaims the presence of all sorts of soups, salads, curries, wraps, cutlets, falafel and even Silesian inspired dishes and an army of gluten and allergy free cakes and desserts. Wash it all down with healthy smoothies, local craft brews or even alcohol free beer!QB‑3, ul. Słowackiego 12/1, tel. (+48) 533 73 95 95, www.zielonymost.katowice.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. (15-25zł). T­6­S­W 28 Katowice In Your Pocket

SOUVLAKI BAR Here’s a first for Katowice (it’s becoming a trend in the city, huh?) - a Greek food place! If you’ve ever been to Greece and miss the food (or haven’t, and want to test the food culture), here’s a great place to start, without actually going to the country! It’s not just about the food, it’s the approach - you don’t have to go to the best restaurant to eat good food, and in Greece, a popular option is just to eat some Souvlaki from a street food bar. I’ll be honest, I love this style. Souvlaki Bar is a small eatery, and feels like an Athens quick food bar. The owners live in Athens and very much want to bring this style to Katowice, and why the hell not? It’s awesome. Try horiatiki, tzatziki, and anything with grilled halloumi!QD‑4, ul. Francuska 2, tel. (+48) 533 33 83 89. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (12-30zł). T­6­S­W

HEALTHY EATS OKIEM I BRZUCHEM This is perhaps one of the simplest restaurant concepts in the world, but near to impossible to pull off perfectly: Soup.

This rustic resto gets about as close as you can to perfection by serving up healthy and hearty bowls of delicious liquid gold. The daily menu hangs above the self-serve counter: turkey-gizzard-veggie-bullion, wild mushroom-red beanmini-shell stew and red pepper-roasted pumpkin-chili tomato-garlic, plus three other equally intriguing options awaited us. Always 3 veggie and 3 meat options. We were overjoyed that they offer a three-mini bowl tasting option so we could try more. Without exaggeration, each soup was better than the next and we savoured every spoonful.

Soup for the soul.QB‑5, ul. Kościuszki 18, tel. (+48) 695 73 87 22. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (14-23zł). T­6­B­S­W

HUNGARIAN ZAKLĘTY CZARDASZ Certainly one of Katowice’s finest and most unheralded restaurants, this aromatic Hungarian effort serves excellent ethnic cuisine in elegant surroundings with wicker lampshades, latticework and vines. The enticing menu offers a dozen ways to enjoy their delicious goulash (trust us, you’ll be licking the cutlery), plus stuffed peppers, potato pancakes, pork loin, fish and more - all complemented ideally by Hungarian wines and tokajs from their adjoining shop. Portions are positively huge, with food practically spilling over the edges of the plate, and it’s worth noting that you can ask for many of them iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants in a smaller amount. A cellar wine bar only makes us more enthusiastic to recommend this place than ever before.

QA‑5, ul. Kopernika 9, tel. (+48) 32 257 01 32, www. czardasz.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (28-49zł). U­B­S­W

INDIAN BUDDHA The Indian owned and operated Buddha has brought authentic ethnic food to Katowice. Marked by great service and richly furnished with elegant antiques, tapestries, tiles and gold silk place-settings, Buddha has a head start before the food even arrives and fails to disappoint in that department as well. If it says it’s spicy (gasp!) it actually is, the curries are rich and portions are more than healthy. If you’re looking for a midweek fix don’t miss their new lunch menu (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00) for just 20 PLN! Overall a fine effort and more than worth the total on the check, which arrives in a hand-crafted box. They also offer catering and delivery services.QA‑5, ul. Drzymały 9, tel. (+48) 32 608 00 50, www.buddha-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30.

(22-50zł). T­V­B­S­W MASALA HOUSE Masala House is a thoroughly authentic curry house and they don’t pull any punches or spare any spices. Start off with a crunchy samosa or spicy onion bhaji then move on to a main dish of fish, chicken, beef, lamb or veggie and curries (vegan options also available). Play it safe with a tikka masala or take the gloves off with some lamb rogan josh. Grab a mango lassi to put out that fire or any other beverage you may desire. Don’t be shy if you’re not a member of the red hot chilli pepper’s fan club because there are plenty of milder curries to choose from and the colourful menu (English available) is chilli coded so you and your tongue know what you’re jumping into. Don’t miss their cheap lunch specials Mon - Fri 12:00 - 15:00.

QA‑2, ul. Mickiewicza 32, tel. (+48) 32 253 00 43, www. masalahouse.eu. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

(20-50zł). T­V­B­S­W THALI HOUSE BY MASALA HOUSE Katowice’s newest restaurant is also the first Thali restaurant in the city. Brought to you by the same team that run the excellent Masala House across town, this new Indian offering is right smack dab at the beginning of Mariacki and promises exactly what’s in the name - Thali! If you’ve never experienced Thali before it is something akin to Indian tapas where instead of getting one bowl of curry or sauce you get six little bowls of delicious sauces, chutneys and curries served with rice and naan. The emphasis here is also on vegetarian and vegan options although meat options are also available. Once you walk into the beautifully designed and tastefully coloured interiors you’ll immediately be transported, and once you taste the food you’ll want to stay for the rest of the day.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 4, tel. (+48) 32 209 14 44, www.thalihouse.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (10-50zł). T­V­B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Ma�ana Bistro & Wine Bar

ul. Wolności 15 Chorzów (+48) 508293640 info@bistromanana.pl /bistromanana Sun-Mon: 12:00 - 20:00 Tue-Thu: 12:00 - 21:00 Fri-Sat: 12:00 - 22:00

March – June 2018 29

Restaurants MILK BARS While many of the old ways of the old days of communist Poland have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic remains steadfastly unWestern: the Polish milk bar.

These steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put the museums on hold, a visit to the milk bar (‘bar mleczny’ in Polish) is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country.

Poland’s first milk bar - ‘Pod Bańką’ (Under the Milk Churn) - was opened on Kraków’s market square on May 30th, 1948. Originally no hot dishes were served; bar mleczny were places where you went simply to enjoy milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass with a straw (so classy). Run by the government, this was the new party’s ‘clever’ attempt at popularising milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by Poland’s large surplus of dairy products.

As restaurants were nationalised and then shut down

by PL’s communist authorities, more and more milk bars appeared across the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses and especially workers; quite often meals at the local milk bar were included in a worker’s salary.

By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across Poland as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast food to everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently). In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Orders are still taken by blue-haired, blue-veined, all-business babcias -and the food is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat isn’t rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, today’s milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as the milk soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, fortunately for us all, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through state subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often.

EUROPA QC‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 8, tel. (+48) 32 259 66 96.

Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (5-20zł). S 30 Katowice In Your Pocket

INTERNATIONAL BIERHALLE Dining in a shopping mall usually consists of being queue barged by tracksuited teens ordering burgers and putting the finishing touches to their acne, so Bierhalle is quite a bonus for all who find themselves exploring the guts of the Silesia City shopping mall. The best beer in Katowice should be the primary reason for your visit, but the food is by no means a poor relation. The menu here is pretty much as you’d expect: big piles of dead animals, perfect for lining the innards before putting their range of microbrews to the test. Order the likes of sausages, herring, and even tortillas, delivered cheerily by staff dressed like they’ve just finished milking cows.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (15-40zł). B­S­W BISTRO & CAFE KRYSTYNKA WRACA Z WIEDNIA This bright little bistro is quite a refreshing take on the cuisine and style of Vienna. If you’re thinking starched napkins and gilded portraits of moustachioed Habsburgs, think again. There’s nothing haughty or hifalutin about this delectable diner. They offer straight ahead delicious food of the hearty soup and scrumptious schnitzel variety with a subtle tip of the hat to Austrian tradition. They also do great service to Viennese cake and coffee culture so make sure to stop by in the earlier hours for a java jolt and to break the fast. Also, saddle up to a big creamy bowl of soup and a luscious latte. With food and drink like this we are by no means surprised by Miss Kristine’s illustrious return... we just hope she never leaves us again.QA‑6, ul. Kościuszki 45, tel. (+48) 32 733 38 20, www.krystynka.com.pl. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (2136zł). T­6­B­S­W BISTRO & CAFE ZIELNIK The term bistro gets thrown around a lot these days but this bright and bustling cafe is indeed a true blue bistro at heart. From hearty breakfasts, to fresh squeezed juices, creative cakes, thrilling lunch specials and exquisite entrees, there is a lot to like here. And the longer you stay the longer you want to stay. Our coffee and spinach cake ended in a 3 course lunch; they change their menu regularly, but there is always a duck option playing the starring role! A good rule of thumb is if you can see and hear the chef cooking, you know your meal is the real deal. Superb!QC‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 46 04. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (23-36zł). T­6­B­S­W BOHEMA Entirely elegant, there’s little bohemian about Bohema with its wine glasses and white tablecloth approach to fine dining - except maybe the surprisingly moderate prices.

Appear in-the-know by taking your date to this obscure restaurant on the south side and choose from a wide range of Polish and European meat and fish dishes; curiosities include the Salmon Carpaccio, tenderloin in forest iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants mushroom sauce and an entire page of veggie side dishes entitled ‘Vitamins’ at the top. They even have a respectable kids menu to boot. Classy with a creme interior of black and white photos of 50s starlets, the separate downstairs bar offers something a bit more relaxed, although is only available for private parties and functions, so you must call in advance to arrange!QB‑7, ul. Bratków 4, tel. (+48) 32 202 51 80, www.restauracjabohema.com. Open 12:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (19-52zł). T­B­S­W BUŁKĘS Their tagline is all you really need to know: Pulled Pork and Pancakes. If you’re still not convinced then how about local micro-brewed craft beers on tap and in bottles, and lunch options that will knock your socks off, Prosecco cocktails and homemade cakes. Still not convinced? Come find us on their urban terrace – we’ll be digging into yet another BBQ pork, bacon and blue cheese sandwich (we’re addicted already) and washing it down with a fruity Silesian Hajer IPA. We’ll have a word or two for you; come early and come often!QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 10, tel. (+48) 780 09 09 66. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 14:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. (20-40zł). T­6­U­B­S­W NEW DZIEŃ I NOC Entering any establishment is usually dependent on your choice of day and night options - do you want food during the day? Do you want to go for drinks in the evening? Well, entering this establishment is a clear choice between dzień i noc (night and day), as both are rolled into one! Located right in the city centre, come during the day for some great food, and quite a treat too, as the kitchen contains one Top Chef finalist, Marcin Czubak, along with Agnieszka Syguła, so you know your food will be quite nifty! A Lunch option is available for just 29zł, consiting of a soup and a hearty main.

For our main we had a duck breast glazed with buckwheat honey, which came with beetroot, turnip fondant and date purée! It was delightful! Once you’re done with the food, the night sets in and gradually some eating areas become a dancefloor. Eat. Drink. Dance. I’m in!QC‑4, ul. Warszawska 5, tel. (+48) 531 03 40 34, www.dzieninoc.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

(34-100zł) €€. T­6­U­E­B­S KLUBOGALERIA SARP This marvellous multifunctional restaurant, club, bar and architectural cultural centre recently arrived on the scene to much fanfare. Their various international inspired menus are reason enough to pay them a visit. If lunch is more your thing, stop in from 12:00 - 16:00 Mon-Fri for their daily special, costing 15zł which includes soup, main and a dessert. If none of that floats your boat just order off of the regular dinner menu with inspired soups, sides and mains until 23:00. Their numerous flat screen TVs mean that this is the rare venue that you can eat a delicious meal, drink a great cocktail and watch the big game at the same time.QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 9, tel. (+48) 32 205 12 86. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (18-40zł). B­W iyp.me/polandblog

Chorzowska 109 Katowice +48 506 788 775

March – June 2018 31

Restaurants

ul. Stawowa 3, 40-095 Katowice tel. 32 781 55 55, 32 259 98 65 www.restauracjapatio.pl Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00

Our Family Tradition for over 70 years in gastronomy

Possibility of accommodation in cosy charming rooms!

Open: hotel 24h, restaurant 8:00 - 22:00

ul. Kościuszki 352, 40-690 Katowice tel. 32 202 95 56, tel. kom. 666-388-108 www.patiozajazd.pl 32 Katowice In Your Pocket

PAN DE ROSSA Located in the Valley of Three Ponds (just east of F-5 on the map) – one of the city’s most popular recreation areas, Pan de Rossa makes more than just an appetising diversion for those creaking around on their bicycles. Unfortunately they downsized their seasonal terrace overlooking the pond when they moved across the road and into the trees.

However what they lost in views they gained in design with a fresh, modern décor with lots of light through their large windows. The menu remains a dissertation on local grilled fish and game dishes but has upped the Polish selections, likely to cater to a more local audience.QL‑5, ul. Trzech Stawów 23 (os. Paderewskiego), tel. (+48) 32 256 05 52, www.panderossa.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (32-69zł). U­B­S­W PATIO One of Katowice’s most popular restaurants just had an extensive renovation and they are all spiffed up and ready to serve. They got rid of some of the kitschy clutter, added some comfier chairs and brightened things up a bit so you can now see your delicious dish a bit better and feel relaxed as you eat it. Their extensive menu of regional dishes (Silesian beef roulade with dumplings and red cabbage) and European cuisine (pizzas, pastas, grilled meats and fish etc.) has plenty to offer. Their multi-lingual menus (English, German, French and Italian) make it easy for you to successfully order what some claim to be the best steak in town. For a bargain, visit between 11:00 and 16:00 Mon-Fri, when lunch is only 24zł.QB‑3, ul. Stawowa 3, tel. (+48) 32 781 55 55, www.restauracjapatio.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (18-62zł). T­6­B­S­W PATIO PARK An exquisitely decorated and refreshingly spacious restaurant at the edge of Kościuszki Park. Reflected light above the faux trellises give the impression of daylight and cut branches hang from the trellises so as to give the impression of dining in a forest on a starry night. Countrystyle furniture, a rustic-themed mural, antique objects and elegantly simple table settings sustain the impression. Wait staff are pleasant and speedy to respond. The chef takes a creative turn with entrees, adding garnish to some to resemble trees. The menu is long, but you may not have to venture past the chef’s recommendations on the first page to find something tempting. They’ve recently introduced tasting menus on Mon and Tues (55-75zł). Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as they’ve just installed a new playground area so you can dine in peace.QJ‑5, ul. Kościuszki 101, tel. (+48) 32 205 30 77, www.patio-park.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (20-100zł). T­U­B­S­W PATIO ZAJAZD The patriarch of the Patio family is also their biggest and most exclusive. The Polish ‘zajazd’ is something between a Diner, a Motel and a rip roaring wedding and function hall.

Patio Zajazd fits the bill but ups the classiness and quality by a factor of ten. As with all Patio restaurants the food is the centrepiece and is a hearty mix of Polish staples and iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants pan European fair. Steeped in tradition and experience, their chefs, waiters and hotel staff all provide top notch service and they even have a play area for your little ones (inside and out). Whether you’re simply stopping in for a bite to eat or staying for the weekend to celebrate a distant nephew’s nuptials. They have 22 comfortable Hotel quality rooms available on the premises.Qul. Kościuszki 352 (Piotrowice), tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www.patiozajazd. pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (12-89zł). T­U­B­S­W RESTAURACJA MAX This is an absolute Katowice institution and if you happen to have a taste for the wilder meats, then Max is the place for you to get your fix. Their cuisine hovers somewhere between trans-European and traditional Polish with an expansive menus of delicate starters, hearty soups and decadent mains. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the many exotic game dishes and regular specials they have on offer. Choose from roast wild boar or Venison steaks! If you can’t decide on just one go for the chef’s wild game platter for two. Make sure in the summer months to try dining al fresco on their terrace. NOTE: Max is located about a 10 minute walk north of the Spodek and just off of our map on ul. Korfantego.QK‑1, Al. Korfantego 105, tel. (+48) 32 259 68 86, www.restauracja-max.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-34zł). T­B­S­W RESTAURACJA MONOPOL This regal bistro recently had its menu overhauled had its art-deco decor totally redecorated. Located in the heart of the City on the ground floor of the city’s only 5 star Hotel the very capable head chef has concocted the ideal seasonal sensations for light leisurely breakfast and midday meals. If you’re feeling a bit more peckish check out their daily lunch menu (daily from 12:00 - 16:00). Their extensive wine list will also help you start your day in style.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. U­S­W RESTAURACJA POD DREWNIANYM BOCIANEM A new franchise of a tried and true Chorzów and Ruda Śląska legends, the Katowice version of the stalky stork is a bit more modern and elegant than the rest of its flock.

Here they have gone the downtown route offering fine dining mixed with occasional live music. Although the atmosphere is much more sophisticated the menu is in fact similar which is very much to their credit. Thin crust pizzas cooked in a wood fire oven are the centrepiece of their expansive menu which also delves deeply into other Mediterranean staples like pastas, salads and seafood with a smattering Polish classics and Silesian specialities for good measure. The portions are large and the food is outstanding. Judging from the positivity of the staff and the meticulousness of the new design and expansive private event room, this bird has come to roost for a long while.

QJ‑3, ul. Gliwicka 49, tel. (+48) 532 53 22 22, www. drewnianybocian.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (17-65zł). T­V­B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Restauracja Max Polish & International Cuisine, Venison

Katowice, al. Korfantego 105 +48 32 259 68 86

www.restauracja-max.pl

Katowice, ul 3 Maja 23

Sport Events on

42 TVs

4 bars 2 big screens tables 4 dart,billiards foosball tables

2dance floors www.citypub.pl tel. +48 32 253 97 99 www.facebook.com/city.pub.katowice March – June 2018 33

Restaurants RESTAURACJA TAMARYND Located in the ground floor of the M Hotel Sosnowiec, the Tamarynd takes the hotel dining experience to a new level.

Serving up a mix of Mediterranean classics highlighted by separate tapas and pizza menus plus a huge selection of starters, soups, salads, pastas and mains. With supremely elegant interiors accentuated by chandeliers, mirrors covering the walls and a bright and colourful decor, the only question you’ll be left asking is ‘Are these prices for real?’ Tamarynd gives you yet another reason to visit the up and coming North Eastern ‘borough’ of Sosnowiec.Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199 (M Hotel Sosnowiec), Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 507 55 50 03, www.tamarynd.pl. Open 06:30 22:00. (19-39zł). T­U­B­X­S­W RESTAURACJA VACANZA It’s rare that a hotel restaurant would warrant the trip for those not staying upstairs, but Silesian dining is precisely the kind of perfect storm that makes Vacanza an oasis of taste. Warm Mediterranean interiors include a fireplace and sunny four season timber-beamed terrace, and it merely follows suit that the excellent menu be an exploration of southern European tastes and ingredients.

With several banquet rooms on hand, it’s also worth considering if you’re planning more than a casual dinner.

Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie (Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie), tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.hotelediament.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-60zł).

T­6­U­B­S­W STEAKHOUSE DA DA If there were such a thing as the beaten path in Katowice, Stekhouse would certainly be off it, but it’s worth seeking out if you’re feeling particularly rapacious. With a variety of choice cuts of primo authentico Argentine beef steaks (Black Angus), Irish beef steaks (Hereford) and other choice cuts from around the globe (Chile, Japan and even Poland!).

If you’re a meat lover you can’t go wrong. There’s an English menu on hand and the pleasant staff are more than happy to help out.QA‑6, ul. gen. Zajączka 17 (entrance from ul.

Poniatowskiego), tel. (+48) 32 205 61 03. Reservation only. (35-115zł). W TATIANA A long, thin restaurant with elegant, cleverly designed wooden floors and ceilings. The organic design is enhanced with decorative bamboo and suspended reeds and a new lighting system which make for a bright and warm atmosphere. One of Katowice’s finer and suitably popular establishments, the menu features an extensive range of Slavic and European dishes including steaks (the best in the city?) plus a seasonal menu that changes every three months. The Silesian style ‘Żurek’ (sour rye soup) with mashed potato, sausage and egg is as traditional as you can get, and wow, what a taste! Great food with a wine list to match.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 5, tel. (+48) 32 203 74 13, www.restauracjatatiana. pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (22-98zł).

U­B­S­W 34 Katowice In Your Pocket

iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants ITALIAN BAR A BOO The furthest restaurant on the Mariacka strip but more than well worth the trip. Specializing in pizzas, pastas and other Italian treats, this popular eatery hits all the right notes avoids being just another Italian place. With authentic wood fired pizzas at the heart of it all, their seasonal menus are built around the freshest of ingredients both sourced locally and imported from Italy. Their Pappardelle Porcini with porcini mushrooms, cured tomatoes, onion, garlic and wine and butter sauce was just the ticket! The colourful wine and drink menu (Prosecco, Bellini!) is expertly presented and paired by their friendly and knowledgable waitstaff. Delicioso!QE‑4, ul. Mariacka 37, tel. (+48) 32 399 15 26, www.baraboo.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (10-49zł). T­B­S­W CRISTALLO Climb a grand marble staircase to reach Cristallo, the stunning show-piece restaurant of the Monopol Hotel.

A glass roof allows guests to watch the evening unravel above them, while the discreet interiors of bare brick walls and steel tubing lend a minimalist aesthetic to the experience. Select from the imaginative Italian (and Polish) inspired menu with succulent dishes such as octopus burger and a choice of grilled fish. You pay for the quality here, and it comes as no surprise that diners trek across Silesia to do so.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 09, www.monopolkatowice.hotel. com.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-85zł). U­E­S­W LEN ARTE Len Arte takes the cake for the best pizza pie in town. The incredible smells wafting from their wood fired oven will hit you way before you queue up for a table. And wait you will (unless you call ahead), as this is one of the hottest gastronomic tickets in town. Once you make it inside you’ll see why their pies are so divine. They have countless artisanal Italian products prominently displayed behind the bar. Peperoncinis, prosciutto, pasta, parmesan, pesto, porcini oh my! Choose from an impossible list of pristine pizzas, scrumptious salads, perfect pastas and delicious dolces. Top it all off with an authentic espresso and you’ll be shouting Bravissimo along with the rest of town.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 25, tel. (+48) 32 308 84 30, www.lenarte. com.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (15-35zł). T­6­B­S­W

ul. Warszawska 15 Katowice (+48) 572359131 info@novorestobar.pl novorestobar.pl /novorestobar/ godziny otwarcia: Mon: 16:00 - 23:00 Tue - Thu: 12:00 - 23:00 Fri-Sat: 12:00 - 01:00 San: 12:00 - 21:00

NOVO The first thing you’ll be struck by as you walk in to NOVO is the huge stone bake oven right at the bar (we think it’s the only one in Kato!). The second thing you’ll be struck by is the sight of all the chopped wood, used for said oven, stored all around the restaurant, craftily incorporated into the decor. The restaurant has a fantastic feel to it, with pots of herbs adorned on the outside wall of the courtyard garden. Now, order your food and watch as it’s all made iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 35

Restaurants

„The Best Sushi Restaurant in Poland“ according to Rzeczpospolita (One of Poland‘s leading newspapers)

A large selection of hot dishes Home and office delivery

in the glass walled kitchen outside - try not to put the chefs off from their fine work. You may notice the menu is printed on regular paper, and for good reason, as the menu is seasonal and regularly updated, although they do have their regular dishes. The wine list is huge and we’re sure you’ll find something to tickle your fancy.QD‑4, ul.

Warszawska 15, tel. (+48) 572 35 91 31. Open 12:00 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-70zł). T­6­B­S­W RISTORANTE TERRA MARE Although slightly off the beaten track, this superb and elegant Italian seafood restaurant has a fleet of culinary delights. The stunning interiors set the tone with the seafaring Mediterranean theme done impressively well.

Most restaurants that attempt such a theme end up looking like a Pirates of the Caribbean set. It’s a testament to the owners that they can somehow suspend a dingy from the ceiling and make it look elegant. Design aside, the food is the main attraction and the rare site of a lobster tank with live lobsters should be an indication of what kind of quality (and price) you should expect.

Authentic antipastas, perfect handmade pastas and main dishes that are fit for a king (prawn). While every dish looks enticing we suggest ordering a fish or seafood dish as it might be the best you’ve had this side of the Alps. Magnifico! For parents, there is the added piece of mind that there’s a kids’ corner on the 1st floor.QN‑1, Al. Roździeńskiego 191B, tel. (+48) 515 05 56 00, www. terramare.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.

(35-300zł). T­U­B­S­W

JAPANESE HANA SUSHI A former swimming pool attached to one of Katowice’s closed coal mines, this lovely brick building has been refitted to house the city’s best sushi house and Japanese restaurant. With the added advantage of being at the Silesia City Centre, yet sovereign over its own independent space and atmosphere (they even have their own separate parking next door), Hana Sushi boasts a rich menu rife with Japanese delicacies and hot dishes for those still suspicious of the sushi fad. If you don’t feel like making your way to Silesia’s biggest shopping mall.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 109, tel. (+48) 32 605 09 77, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-89zł). T­U­V­B­S­W

Katowice – Silesia City Center Ul. Chorzowska 109 tel. + 48 32 60-50-977 tel. + 48 32 60-50-975 Facebook/ Hana Sushi Katowice

36 Katowice In Your Pocket

HOBU A trendy venue with warm interiors and tasteful lighting that both welcome and impress. It looks hitech and minimal, and the sushi sets play their part in winning return customers. Those squeamish of raw-fish (particularly hundreds of miles from the sea) haven’t been overlooked, and the menu includes numerous cooked dishes including teriyaki duck and teppanyaki.QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 10, tel. (+48) 600 20 12 65, www. hobusushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00.

(32-98zł). U­V­B­S­W iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants KYOTO SUSHI Located up the first set of escalators inside the swanky Altus Centre, this large, excellent Japanese restaurant comes with lots of wood trimmings, a tinkling tranquility pond in the centre complete with flowing fountain. Choose from Nigiri, Maki, Sashimi and classic Japanese dishes, washing it down with a Japanese wine, beer, whisky or a carafe of sake.QD‑3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 603 01 66, www. kyotosushi.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (45-87zł). U­S­W

MEDITERRANEAN LA CANTINA Here we go dropping the superlatives: Located 4km from Katowice’s centre in lovely Dolina Trzech Stawów (wait for it), those who make the trek out to this Mediterranean charmer (wait for it) will be rewarded with not only the beautiful surroundings of Valley of Three Ponds (wait for it), but also Katowice’s finest restaurant, hands down and undulating in adulation (!!). The stone and wood interior comfortably casual, but with all the expected finery - creates a warm dining atmosphere that will ripen any mood. Top off your superb meal of decadent delights with a killer wine list and it’s easy to forget Katowice isn’t located somewhere in Provence.QL‑5, ul. Trzech Stawów 22, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 27, www.la-cantina.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (21-200zł). T­6­U­B­X­S­W RESTAURANT VIA TOSCANA A sensory delight awaits you on the second floor of Altus Tower with intriguing interiors touting archways, lampposts, vines and even mock balconies. It’s every much as delightful on the palette as it is on the eye, with a menu featuring Argentinean beef, a great pickled salmon carpaccio and seafood. The house specialty is octopus in a white wine sauce with cherry tomatoes and arugala served over pappardelle pasta. Wine and dine al fresco on their expansive 60 person terrace. Equally suited to romantic trysts or hushed business dinners, Via Toscania is further proof of Katowice’s growing stature.QD‑3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13 (Altus Tower), tel. (+48) 32 603 01 91, www.viatoscana.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (24-115zł). T­U­X­S­W SHRIMP HOUSE Started by three brothers with a passion for cooking, Shrimp House provides something that in the past was lacking in Polish gastronomy but has been gradually springing up here and there, and is now available right in the centre of Katowice just a stone’s throw away from the main train station - damn good shrimp! Inspired by the food truck trend, the brothers offer delicious fresh shrimp bites (not tiny, frozen, poor quality prawns) served in a variety of ways - from pasta and tomato sauce, garlic and white wine sauce, curried shrimp all the way to Pho soup, all with various dips. The food on offer is the real deal...at long last.QB‑4, ul. Młyńska 11, tel. (+48) 726 50 06 66, www.shrimp-house.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (19-30zł). T­6­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Mediterranean Cuisine THE BEST MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT IN THE REGION Let us take you to a Mediterranean climate where you can feel the rhythm of a sunny day.

Our restaurant can be found in the HOTEL ALTUS PRESTIGE, FIRST FLOOR. ul. Uniwersytecka 13, Katowice mobile +48 512 020 808 tel +48 (32) 603 01 91 katowice@viatoscana.pl www.viatoscana.pl March – June 2018 37

Restaurants MEXICAN EL MEXICANO If you’re anything like us and you’ve tried one too many cabbage filled tacos in mexican kitsch-fiestaurants across Poland, then you’ll understand our initial hesitation. But as soon as we saw the tastefully colourful exterior of El Mexicano, we knew this was something special. The small and brightly coloured interior balances perfectly with the straight ahead authentic Tex-Mex they serve. Mouthwatering spices meld with fresh ingredients, almost all of which actually belong in Mexican dishes (no kapusta rancheros here!). They even offer imported chipotle and habanero sauces if you want to fire up those fajitas.

Besides great food and drink the atmosphere is relaxed and there’s absolutely no risk of being serenaded by a pimply faced Politechnika student in a sombrero. Muchos Bravos Mexicanos!QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 18A, tel. (+48) 790 82 26 82, www.elmexicano.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (19-56zł). B­S­W

POLISH CADENZA Occupying a prominent position on the second floor of the country’s foremost concert hall, Cadenza has a lot of rolls to fill; it is the pre-concert venue for dinner, drinks or snacks; it is the intermission wine and cake stop; it is the catering kitchen for all NOSPR special events that happen both inside and out; it is, most importantly, the most cutting edge and innovative Polish restaurant in Katowice.

Every seasonal dish is carefully composed and explodes in a symphony of pianissimo and fortissimo flavors.

The Goose breast with mead, roasted beetroots, beans, cranberry, goose crumble, buckwheat and sturgeon filet are clear standouts and we will gladly return for an encore performance of more of their inspiring culinary delights.

QB‑3/4, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 47, www.cadenza.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (3252zł). T­B­S­W

La cocina de México Mariacka 18a, Katowice tel. 32 209 01 40 www.elmexicano.pl 38 Katowice In Your Pocket

CHATA Z ZALIPIA Paying homage to the specific folk art tradition of the far-away Małopolska village of Zalipie, the rustic cottage interior of this pleasant peasant offering features elaborate flower murals on the white walls, garlic garlands hanging from timber beams and plenty of other farm fittings. Delicious Polish home-cooking is served on beautifully decorated ceramic dish ware, while waitresses in traditional dress and disco folk music round out what serves as one of the best introductions to Polish cuisine in Silesia. They’ve even won several culinary awards and what’s more, many Polish stars of stage and screen seem to count themselves as regulars. The one and only Slash polished off some pierogi here not so long ago. Rock and rolada!QC‑5, ul. Wojewódzka 15, tel. (+48) 32 205 33 00, www. chatazzalipia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. (17-38zł). T­6­U­S­W iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants DWOREK POD LIPAMI This majestic manor specializes in large banquets, conferences, outdoor parties and weddings fit for a king.

The menu is filled with Silesian specialties, classic Polish dishes and International fine dining staples. How about escargot and steak tartare to start things off followed by roast pork knuckle and beef roulade?! If you’re looking to be the host with the most, bring your guests to the best.QN‑7, Pl. Pod Lipami 1 (Giszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 793 95 51, www.dworekpodlipami.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (20-45zł).

T­U­B­S RESTAURACJA KUCHNIA OTWARTA Formerly known as the Restauracja Autorska Adama Gessler, this elegant and exciting open kitchen concept restaurant serves up some of the best upscale regional Silesian cuisine around. Located on the edge of the Hotel Forum Katowice right on the edge of Silesia Park. Treat yourself to some of the regions finest fare including beef cheeks, veal shanks and even more traditional fare such as pierogies and soulful soups. The food is top notch but the service is world class as the chefs serve you themselves - personally bringing the food straight from the pan to your warm plate. Elegance, atmosphere and a memorable experience are virtually guaranteed. Now part of the prestigious Silesian Culinary Trail, this is certifiably one of the best places to taste true Silesian and Polish cuisine.

Qul. Bytkowska 1A, Katowice (Hotel Forum Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 721 11 66, www.kuchniaotwarta.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (35-69zł). 6­U­S­W RYCERSKI Located in what appears to be a wooden mountain chalet (but is in fact the Hotel Rycerski), this is a very decent place to take in the Polish food experience. Heavy wooden bench-style furniture, friendly waitresses and large servings of well-prepared Polish grub are actually worth the trip out here, even if you’re not staying in the adjacent hotel. Lots of seating and a well-stocked bar mean that the atmosphere often develops into that of a thriving beer hall.Qul. Będzińska 53 (Hotel Rycerski), Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (2079zł). T­U­B­S­W WIEJSKA CHATKA (THE RUSTIC HUT) Katowice’s only truly traditional Polish and Silesian restaurant is a nice change of pace if not slightly out of place. A cavalcade of country-style adornments such as old farming tools and painted flowers contrast nicely with the bright white walls. The background music is as kitschy and folky as it comes which goes perfectly with the large portions of hearty Polish staples and Silesian delicacies piled high upon your plate. They also offer breakfasts and lunch specials and a boat load of beverages to boot. This urban ‘Village’ is one you just must pillage when you’re in town.QK‑2, Pl. Grunwaldzki 4, tel. (+48) 32 350 30 10, www.wiejskachatka.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (15-50zł). T­V­B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 39

Restaurants POLISH FOOD

ZŁOTY RÓG (THE GOLDEN HORN) A combined delicatessen and place to stand at a table and eat in the style of a train station buffet, this humble-looking establishment churns out a large array of outstanding dishes ready to eat in an instant from pierogi to roast beef, all served with a superb choice of side dishes and salads.

If you don’t mind the peculiar dining arrangements you won’t find it easy to get a better and tastier bargain than in here. Check in or visit their FB for details on daily discounts.

QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 2, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 48, www. zlotyrogkatowice.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. (10-30zł). S

QUICK EATS Pierogi

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test: Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days.

If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.

Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served with a tomato or mushroom sauce.

Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer.

Go caveman.

Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison.

Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere.

Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.

40 Katowice In Your Pocket

EUROPA Those who like to complain about the Poles’ frequent inability to form an orderly queue will be amused by this classic milk bar, which features a series of gates and fences to curb queue barging. Once you do get to the counter, take your pick from a range of local, ludicrously cheap flourbased dishes, a surprisingly decent bean soup, goulash and instant mashed potatoes. School dinners for grown ups, collect your food, pick up a knife and fork, pay the lady and away you go/go away.QC‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 8, tel. (+48) 32 259 66 96. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (520zł). S FABRYKA KURTOSZA A great addition to Katowice’s growing street food offer, this colorful and central spot serves up sweet and savoury Kurtosz aka chimney cakes. These curious spiral shaped cakes hail all the way from Transylvania and have become increasingly popular in Poland. They are baked in a special oven so that they are extra crispy on the outside but soft on the inside.They serve up several classic sweet varieties like cinnamon, coconut, white chocolate, nutella and caramel. The unique savoury options include parmesan with pumpkin seed, spicy salami and our favourite, olive & feta with arugula. They even have morning specials with a breakfast offer for 13zł with coffee for 1zł, Mon-Sat 10:00 - 12:00.QD‑3, ul. Staromiejska 14, tel. (+48) 519 33 11 10. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. (7-11zł). T­6­S­W KARTOFELNIK One of the more interesting culinary trends to have popped up in Poland, although given the country’s enduring love affair with the humble spud it makes perfect sense. At this bright bistro (also an eco mini market) they’ve truly made the tater great by pairing it with all sorts of healthy and exotic fillings. Their huge organic and perfectly baked jacket potatoes become flavour transportation devices when paired with hummus, kimchi, chili con carne, various curries and more. They also have daily soups on offer, organic juices and delicious desserts.QD‑4, ul.

Mielęckiego 4, tel. (+48) 507 50 35 57. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (8-17zł).

T­6­U­V­B­S­W iyp.me/katowice

Restaurants SILESIAN MOODRO RESTAURANT Not to be confused with the Bistro/Cafe of the same name across the courtyard in the main museum complex, this is the much larger and more elegant restaurant in the old Machinery Building of the Silesian Museum. The refined exposed brick interiors with large picture windows overlook the rest of the Museum’s stunning campus. Their exquisite seasonal cuisine can best be described as Modern Silesian Fusion. Expect futuristic European fare and classic Silesian with flare (think rolada śląska with dumplings and red cabbage etc.). With a great wine list and impeccable service, you may find yourself becoming a repeat customer, Museum visit or not.QK‑3, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1A (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 93 01, www. moodro.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (25-74zł).

U­S­W ŻUROWNIA If you’re not familiar yet with the Polish soup Żurek, it’s your lucky day. It is a sour rye soup and one of the most iconic of all Polish soups. This new bustling bistro is a shrine to the humble soup and you can order a big ole bowl with hard boiled eggs and/or sausages. But you know what they say, come for the soup and stay for the Silesian street food. The local patriotism is strong in this place (the main menu is in Silesian and the cooks shout at each other in it) and they scoured the whole region for the best quick bites they could find. Try the ‘Ślązak’ aka Silesian kielbasa hot dog or a ’Hajer’ tortilla wrap with red cabbage, beef and pickles, among other things. This is Silesian soul food served up fast and cheap as chips (braty)! There is also a conference room (holds up to 30 people, catering available), should you need it.QB‑5, ul.

Ligonia 16, tel. (+48) 535 08 46 66. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

(9-19zł). T­6­U­V­S­W

VIETNAMESE LITTLE HANOI...AND MORE! Set on a pedestrianised street in the heart of Katowice within walking distance of the train station and Katowice’s ‘Market Square,’ Little Hanoi is a welcome departure from eating dumplings, or even the lowstandard Chinese restaurants found across the country.

Granted, the minimal décor containing the obligatory lanterns, decent Vietnamese dishes and friendly staff are not unique in Poland, but as far as eating options in central Katowice go, this is a definite step in the right direction. The spicy soup was a solid beginning, the ribs were delicious and their signature Duck “Little Hanoi” style was to-die-for! Wash it down with a Lime Nuoc Chanh and like us you’ll be fortified for the evening ahead with hardly a dent made in your wallet.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 4, tel. (+48) 886 62 33 88, www. littlehanoi.eu. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 21:00.

(35-80zł). U­B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 41

Nightlife

Longway’s history spans further than the bar! (p.46)

Katowice’s nightlife is improving steadily, with more and more bars and clubs opening that hold themselves to a higher creative standard. While there was a time when a Saturday night on the town felt like creeping quietly through a cemetery, that has all changed in a hurry with the emergence of ul. Mariacka (D-3/4) as the city’s nightlife headquarters. A pedestrianised threeblock stretch that was once all strip clubs and shady gay saunas (ok, those are still there), the city has put a lot of energy into cleaning it up and turning it into the high street it should be. Despite some dreadful urban design decisions including ugly, uncomfortable benches and strange sculptures, the city is finally seeing results with a plethora of restaurants, cafes, cocktail bars and clubs moving in to give the city centre some buzz. In summer, Mariacka is full of outdoor seating and flooded with people, but there are plenty of other hedonist hideouts to discover elsewhere with the help of this guide. The venues we list below are located throughout the Silesian Metropolis, with the name of the town added to the end of the address after a comma (with a map reference if applicable) if it is not in Katowice proper; districts of Katowice are shown in brackets. The opening hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for.

ELITE Katowice isn’t exactly the place to take your twentysomething arm trophy for a romantic weekend, but you can probably pick one up while you’re here. To that end 42 Katowice In Your Pocket

try Cooler Club (p.48) or the more sophisticated Upojeni (p.47).

LADS Foreign funboys can mix with the locals in the context of their own culture in the likes of Ambasada Śledzia (p.44) and Boombarr (p.44), before drinking enough Guinness to lurk across the lively dancefloors of Rajzefiber (p.49) or the classic City Pub (p.44). Bierhalle microbrewery (p.46) is also ideal for team piss-ups.

STUDENTS Not the most discerning demographic, students will go anywhere there’s fun music and cheap drinks, namely Browariat (p.44); those with more intent to impress will try Spiż (p.46), or Kato (p.45).

COUPLES Couples looking for romance should find it by dropping in to Old Cuban (p. 47) for some of the best cocktails in the city and a truly tropical atmosphere, before retreating to the cosy cushions of Longway (p.46).

ALTERNATIVE Katowice has a fair number of alt. venues with gamer orientated Cybermachina (p.44) and artsy Drzwi Zwane Koniem (p.45) being among the best offbeat boozers in the city. Hipsters and beer loving backpackers gravitate to Namaste (p.46) and Biała Małpa (p.43). Those with more elevated musical tastes will find few finer clubs than Hipnoza (p.46), whether there’s a live concert on or not. iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife BARS & PUBS ABSURDALNA Bringing modern art, street food and craft beer together under one roof: what an absurdly fantastic idea! When you first walk into this exceedingly colourful bar you could mistake it for an art gallery as the large front room hosts a rotating selection of edgy contemporary art. Keep heading deeper and you’ll find several rooms filled with funky furniture and all sorts of nifty nooks for you to snack and sip in. When you finally make it to the bar you’ll be delighted to find a 16 tap bar set up to serve a rotating variety of Poland’s latest and greatest craft brews (with a strong emphasis on Silesian Breweries). The street food menu offers tasty plates of cheap sides and mains. Check out their FB for upcoming events.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 3, tel. (+48) 537 67 02 70, www.absurdalna.pl. Open 15:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 02:30. E­S­W AMNEZJA Amnezja has a lot going for it without a lot of gimmicks.

Unlike many of the other shady shot bars and crowded student dives, this place is seriously spacious, offering all sorts of nooks and crannies to tuck away in over three floors. Their buzzing beer garden is great for seasonal people watching on the Mariacka strip. There is a slight Western vibe with a lot of exposed brick and tasteful black murals of cowboys, Krakow and Katowice by art.pl. But the star of the show is most

certainly the beer. Their claim to fame is the delicious super fresh “14 day” Tyskie which they get straight from the factory. The perfectly poured Pilsner (in 3 different ways, no less) is equally worth your attention. In short, Amnezja is a great spot for groups, dates or solo acts looking to enjoy a modern day Silesian saloon.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 16, tel. (+48) 504 06 79 03. Open 12:00 - 03:00. B­X ­W BIAŁA MAŁPA (THE WHITE MONKEY) This alabaster ape drapes itself in cool and drowns itself in sudsy pools of amber nectar nightly. This premium primate has achieved cult status among Katowice beer lovers. You’ll see why as soon as you squeeze through its monkey bars. Warm woods, exposed brick and a new heated winter beer garden greet you before you even see the star of the show... the wall of beer! The biggest and oldest Silesian multitap bar has over 400 bottled varieties of Polish, Czech, Belgian, English and Irish artisanal beers and ales on hand plus a rotating cast of 20 brews on tap plus 1 pump. And don’t fear the beer, the knowledgeable staff is eager to offer advice and help you navigate their seas of suds. Come for a coffee during the day and fight with all your might to order that first pint of the night. If that doesn’t tickle your fancy, try out the whisky offers!QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 604 86 61 73, www.bialamalpa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00.

B­W

THE FIRTS SILESIAN MULITAP BAR. A PLACE CREATED WITH A PASSION FOR BEER. WE ASSIST AND ADVISE YOU IN CHOOSINGTHE PERFECT TYPE OF BEER FOR YOU 20 TAPS-1PUMP 400 VARIETIES OF BOTTLED BEER

3 Maja 38, Katowice, +48 604 866173

iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 43

Nightlife POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Photo by Karol Grzenia

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4zł. Familiar as the bar food of the lean communist years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledź (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski bars offer budget food and drink late night and are a great place to meet the city’s strangest characters. We list the best in Katowice below: AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA Only open for a few months and this embassy of herring has taken Katowice’s main party strip by storm.

This Silesian incarnation of a Cracovian establishment of the same name has a similar style, philosophy and thankfully the very same chef as the original. The formula is seemingly well known by now - cheap Polish ‘tapas’ and even cheaper beer and booze. However, what makes them a big fish in the little fish game is their singular style, festive atmosphere (the flowing beer) and the superb quality and originality of their food. They currently offer 10 types of herring, including exotic flavours such as curry, spicy and beet marinated, plus a version with strawberries. If you’re not a fan of the slippery fishies try a hot dish such as BBQ ribs, pork knuckle, potato casseroles or try a slice of apple pie or NYC style cheesecake. Well done, Ambassador!QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 25, tel. (+48) 600 36 15 15. Open 10:00 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. (4-12zł). 6­B­W 44 Katowice In Your Pocket

BOOMBARR What’s better than a sports bar filled with lots of screens showing sports? More display screens, of course! And this place has 15 of them, to be precise. The interior is inspired by comic books, a nice touch for any geeks out there.

If that isn’t enough, for those that dig the Hooters clime the waitresses are dressed rather...skimpily! The owners emphasise that all sports will be shown and that this isn’t just another place to drink cheap beer and watch football, indeed, they have a decent menu to match with salads, soups, pizzas and pasta dishes on offer. For those searching for that extra bit of comfort, VIP boxes can be reserved for groups wishing to watch a sports event on a screen, or simply for a special occasion.QD‑4, ul. Mielęckiego 6, tel. (+48) 666 60 06 66. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. U­B­W BROWARIAT The brew brothers behind Browariat literally built the bar around mostly Bavarian craft beer brands. Emelisse, Flötzinger ,Schonram, Jopen, Fourpure, The Kernel, Partizan Het Uiltje, Brew By Numbers and Founders brews are on tap and in bottles in a colourful variety of hand crafted ales, dunkels, stouts and IPAs. Each style has its very own corresponding glass, stein or flute. They also offer a selection of beers from a visiting brewer on a rotating basis.

Choose whichever tasty beverage suits your fancy and settle into one of the many cozy corners or plunk down in front of a plasma screen and support your favourite sport.

They also play music from vinyls, which is a nice touch.

QD‑5, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 535 00 97 68, www. browariat.com. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 22:00. B­W CITY PUB One of the places that always comes up when enquiries are made about the best places to drink in town and its cult status is unquestionable. The seemingly small bar is delightfully deceptive as the ground floor houses two bars, numerous private rooms including a billiards, foosball and darts lounge, several larger rooms and a decked out dance floor not to mention smoking rooms and a swanky VIP lounge in the basement with a couple more bars to boot! The true charm of City Pub (the oldest pub in Kato!) is that it manages to walk the line between being a Pub and a Club. Curl up with one of the best poured Guinness in Silesia to watch a match or play some billiards during the week and on the weekends dive into their den of sweaty delinquency. On Wednesdays there is a salsa and bachata night, and on Sundays they have speed dating.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 97 99, www. citypub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 14:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. U­B­X­W CYBERMACHINA And now for something completely different… Classic Nintendo characters great you as you wander wide-eyed into this neon dream gaming lounge that offers all sorts of entertainment for hardcore gamers, pinball wizards, jenga junkies and the occasional Catan cartel. Order up iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife a craft brew on tap or out of bottle or power up on one of their signature cocktail elixirs and shots. Even if you are flying solo, the wall of console games and the big screen TV streaming worldwide video game tournaments will keep you enthralled all night long. Check their FB page for special events and tournaments.QC‑4, ul. Św. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 608 12 11 93, www.cybermachina.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 24:00. U­W DRZWI ZWANE KONIEM One of the city’s newest “restobars” just also happens to have one of the city’s best beer gardens or, rather, a sprawling green terrace. With plenty of tables and chairs, pallet furniture and beach loungers to choose from they have the perfect seating option whether you’re just stopping in for a quick bite or making a night of it!

Inside the hip environs are deftly designed and intimately inviting. Order up a cafe beverage or lemonade at the bar by day or grab a local beer or glass of wine by night.

Their carefully curated menu features an eclectic mix of Polish and European inspired light appetizers, sweet and savoury waffles, Belgian and French fries that you can order all day. The menu will be seasonal and democratic so do let your waiter know if you enjoy your meal. Fresh and refreshing!QE‑4, ul. Warszawska 37, tel. (+48) 32 204 12 53, www.drzwizwanekoniem.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (12-26zł). T­6­B­S­W KATO Once a discreet DIY bohemian art bar, this hipster hangout is THE place to be seen in Kato’s underground cultural scene. Despite being inside a perfectly sound structure, the bar is made almost entirely of unpainted plywood, from the tables to the wheat-pasted walls covered in graphic nonsense, all in an attempt to convince the shabby-chic clientele that they haven’t gone mainstream on Mariacka, but are merely squatting. Since a recent expansion, tattooed, counter-culture queens and their jacks continue to spill onto the seasonal pallet tables and fritz cola benches. Bolstered by a solid selection of Czech and Polish microbrews, Kato is the best alternative nightlife venue in town, bar none.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 13, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. B­W KLUBOGALERIA SARP SARP is quickly becoming a hotspot for cutting edge parties and exhibitions. On weekends, the restaurant turns into a full fledged club. Fridays and Saturdays they host some of the best Silesian DJs and a few times a month they host concerts, which may or may not involve the grand piano that also serves as the DJ booth. The full bar offers a wide selection of drinks and cocktails including a prosecco drink menu and a nice selection of wine and whiskeys.

SARP is a smart choice whether you’re looking to just relax and watch the big game for a while, or to have a great night out in style.QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 9, tel. (+48) 32 205 12 86. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. B­W iyp.me/polandblog

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.

This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).

As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.

March – June 2018 45

Nightlife MICROBREWERIES BIERHALLE No matter how many hangovers you endure drinkers will find themselves returning to the scene of the crime, Bierhalle, time and time again. The reason for this is the best beer in the city. There’s a number of brews to choose from, ranging from pilsner to amber marcowe with the wheat standing out as our personal fave, but we encourage you to have a go at them all. Primarily a restaurant, the design is all heavy timber, bare brick and industrial flourishes, while efficient staff dressed as peasant wenches work miracles hoisting heavy tankards and keeping track of the deluge of food and drink orders.QI‑2, ul.

Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

W SPIŻ (BRONZE) Few places have reinvented themselves so fully and completely in recent memory then Spiż. In 2011 the storied dance brewery shuttered their doors for a ‘renovation’. At some point one of the powers that be ended up on a plane to Ibiza and the decision was made to purchase a sound system and light display that would make David Guetta go deaf and blind. In a year and a half’s time the massive two floor club was given a facelift, tummy tuck and a boob job and what you’ll find inside will literally blow your mind. They claim it’s the most modern night club in Poland and from the looks of it they aren’t just blowing smoke (machines)...

If you consider yourself a fan of serious clubbing and great beer - it is your destiny to dance here.. till you can’t hear... for a year.QJ‑3, ul. Opolska 22, tel. (+48) 32 781 11 32, www.spiz.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. U­X ­W

JAZZ HIPNOZA JAZZ CLUB This intimate, laid-back concert venue books some of the city’s best international gigs, the reputation and subsequent turnout for which often exceeds the size of the space. Packed with interesting characters sitting on truly comfortable couches and lazyboys beneath foilwrapped ducts and rotating psychedelic spirals on the walls, there’s also a decent food menu of pastas, burgs and zapiekankas (ask a friend) if you get a snack attack.

QC‑6, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 660 47 61 56, www.jazzclub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. U­X­W 46 Katowice In Your Pocket

KREDENS (THE CUPBOARD) Stuffed with broken-spined books, old luggage, dusty sewing machines and springy sofas, Kredens’ dishevelled bohemian spirit wouldn’t be out of place in jazzy Kraków, where antique furnishings, candlelight and newsprint collages have become par for the course. In Katowice it stands out as one of the most interesting places in town, and one of the few that you might actually want to return to. With a recently expanded menu of low budget eats from pastas, burgers, salads to pizza you may not have any reason to leave.QE‑5, ul. Św. Jacka 9, tel. (+48) 32 785 91 63, www.kredens-pub.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. B­S­W LONGWAY The newest bar to hit Katowice, serving cocktails and over 250 kinds of vodka from Poland and all over the world.

Located in the centre, just along from Plac Wolności, Longway is a quaint bar with a lot of history. Enter to see spruced up original wood furnishings, and a nice, well, long bar! Eager beavers will be interested to know there has been a bar here, in various incarnations, since at least 1912 (the only unaccounted for period being during World War II, which I’m sure you can forgive!).

The service is friendly, chatty and informative, great for discussing your next cocktail option! If sitting at the bar isn’t your thing, relax amongst the cushioned area next to the window and watch the world go by, just like this bar has been doing for over 100 years.QJ‑3, ul. Gliwicka 10, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 62. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 18:00 - 23:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00.

E­W MR. FOX PUB & RESTO This sly fox has a streamlined retro feel and a laid back atmosphere which belies its considerable gastronomic ambitions. The extensive food menus cover all the major meals (including happy hour) and span most current culinary trends from obvious winners like burgers and pizza to healthier fare such as goat cheese salad plus there’s even a little Mexican thrown in! Their extensive drink menu almost overshadows their impressive food offer with all manner of smoothies, shakes, original cocktails, coffee beverages and tea drinks. Good luck leaving this foxhole unsatisfied.QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 3, tel. (+48) 32 257 65 17. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 22:00. B­S­W NAMASTE TRAVELLER’S CLUB Yet another great bar for Katowice’s beer aficionados. They offer a constantly fluctuating cast of different casks pumped out of 7 taps as well as over 80 bottles of tasty brews from around the world. This global philosophy applies to more than just the beer as this true travellers’ club organises weekly meetings where world travellers show slides of far off places and exotic faces. Every so often (check their Facebook events calendar) they host meetings with travel writers who regale the crowds with their thrilling tales or hawk their latest book. The atmosphere is always lively and iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife exceedingly friendly so kick back, raise a brew and make a new friend or two.QJ‑3, ul. Jana III Sobieskiego 27, tel. (+48) 503 45 17 04, www.namaste.katowice.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fir, Sat 16:00 - 01:00. From May open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. B OLD CUBAN Although it might sound like just a theme bar, Old Cuban is Katowice’s brightest new cocktail star. The experienced mixologists will help you navigate their vast rare rum selection and suggest a perfectly balanced cocktail just for you. Bacardi based cocktails are their bread and butter, but ye ole rum & coke is just the beginning. Order the signature Old Cuban cocktail and be transported to a Caribbean beach with it’s ideal sweet and sour notes with a silky smooth finish. They also have an arsenal of whisky, bourbon, vodka and gin on hand not to mention a fortress of fruit and mixers for whipping up any cocktail under the sun. The atmosphere is lively and laid back (ask about the bras on the walls) and the beautiful bar was built for extended sipping sessions.QD‑3, ul. Wojewódzka 26A, tel. (+48) 530 75 47 66, www. oldcuban.com.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 02:00. Closed Mon. B­W PUB KONTYNUACJA It’s official, the beer gods have descended upon Katowice.

This super-sleek multi-tap bar is now in its second location just a stone’s throw from the new ‘Rynek’. The style and philosophy are similar to their old location with 16 taps and one pump pouring pints of the finest Polish and European craft micro-brews. The taps rotate on a daily - sometimes hourly - basis but you can always be sure to find the newest brews from Browar Podgórz, Browar Stu Mostów and Browar Artezan. Expect the bar to be packed with a healthy mix of hipsters, trend hoppers and beer geeks. So grab a chair and raise your glass in the air, because you ain’t going nowhere.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 8, tel. (+48) 668 52 58 25, www.kontynuacja-katowice. ontap.pl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00.

6­U­B­W UPOJENI Full disclosure: this writer has a serious soft spot for Polish new-wave multi-tap craft beer bistros that serve up tasty tapas and beautiful burgers which pair perfectly with the delectable nectar flowing from the pristine pipes. In other words, you had me at hello Upojeni. And the fact that this cosy yet modern two floor secluded bar also serves daily breakfast (buy a coffee between 08:00-12:00 and pay between 1-5zł for breakfast, depending if you want basic or fancy), and/or gourmet lunch specials means I have more than enough reasons to justify a return visit in the nearest of futures. Come early, come often and I’ll see you at the bar! Seasonal menu always on offer, as is a lunch and/or a la carte menu.QC‑4, ul. Św. Jana 10 (entrance from the interior courtyard), tel. (+48) 535 07 03 62. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 24:00. 6­U­B­W iyp.me/polandblog

Discover the pearl of Silesian architecture and a modern brewery.

All in one place.

The tour will be completed with a glass of freshly brewed Tyskie Gronie 14-days beer.

We are open Monday to Saturday, 10 AM to 8 PM 9 Katowicka Street, 43-100 Tychy Tour booking: + 48 32 327 84 30 kontakt@zwiedzbrowar.pl www.zwiedzbrowar.pl

March – June 2018 47

Nightlife KATOWICE FOR BEER LOVERS

After a dozen or so hangovers (and extra trips to the shop for bog roll), Polish beer generally leaves one with an understanding of why vodka is so popular in Poland. Silesia has the honour of being home to the two worst offenders – Tyskie and Żywiec – which enjoy ubiquitous national distribution and sadly also bear the mantle of Polish beer abroad. Basically a diet of these two gets boring fast for anyone with a real affinity for beer.

What too often goes unrealised is that Poland actually has hundreds of independent micro-breweries that produce delicious beer. More and more bars in Katowice are popping up serving ambitious brews from tap and bottle. Some are even declaring it to be the year of beer!

Biała Małpa (p.43) has perhaps the largest selection of draft and bottled beers in Katowice and will even please the fairer sex with their offerings of enhanced beers (think berry beer, chocolate beer and lemon beer). They offer a constantly changing selection of craft beers from around the globe but with a specific emphasis on the many Polish micro-brews gaining prominence. Beer experts, buckle up!

It’s super trendy, but the beer in ul. Mariacka’s (D/E-4) Kato (p.45) is also super tasty. The selection of bottled micro-brews is always in flux but there are plenty to choose from; we recommend Magnus, a sweet dark beer from the Jagiełło Brewery in far eastern Poland.

If you’re looking for something more local, head to Kontynuacja (p.47) to try a draught from one of the many local micro-brewers that have popped up in the region in recent years. At either place you can try a brew from Kraftwerk - these electro pop piwo pioneers are concocting some of the best Silesian beer, if not best Polish beer around.

If you want to stack these national ales against their Czech counterparts make sure to stop into Hospoda (p.26) and immerse yourself in a sea of Czech suds from Kozel Dark to Rychtar to Radogast. If German Beer is your thing than head to the brand new Browariat (p.44) for a bucket of Bavaria’s finest brew. If it’s multitap you want, head to Upojeni (p.47) with their fine selction of craft beers. The last of the great new breed of beer pubs is Namaste Traveler’s Club (p.46) which has a solid offering of micro-brews on tap but perhaps the most impressive list of domestic and imported bottles in the city. Na zdrowie (‘to your health’); literally.

48 Katowice In Your Pocket

ŻÓŁTE DRZWI Quality cocktail bars were one of the things Kato seriously lacked for a long time and sorely deserved. The last year has turned the trend around and now the city centre is bursting at the seams. The Yellow Door is the newest entry and it’s an instant classic. The exposed brick and tall wraparound wood bar are the main features of this dark lit one room wonder. But don’t let the size fool you as this place gets packed in the evenings and even hosts concerts and DJs on the weekends. Try one of their bespoke cocktails on for size (whiskey sour all the way) or drop in during the day for quality coffee and cake. Classy and classic.QC‑4, ul. Dyrekcyjna 10, tel. (+48) 690 10 52 00. Open 15:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. T­6­U­E­W

WINE BARS BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP Hidden away down the same dark alleyway as City Pub, Winiarnia Burgundia features both a shop and bar in which to indulge one’s taste for the grape. By far the best of the city’s wine bars, find a slightly snobby albeit enjoyable and relaxed atmosphere. A really admirable selection of world wines and ciders for all tastes and budgets.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. W

CLUBS COOLER CLUB & FOOD If by cooler you mean louder and more self aware, then this is the coolest joint in town, bro. Typical of most fancy fashion clubs we’ve finessed our way into the last few years, Cooler treads a familiar line of indulgent ornate extravagance and modern minimalism in violet, silver and black, with illuminated liquor shelves, fabric covered walls and original bricks. Small, without anywhere to escape the deafening hip-hop and r’n’b pop noise that carries throughout the entire building and down the street on weekends, some (like ourselves) would be better suited to enjoy it in the early evening when it serves quite nicely as a sexy cocktail lounge and place for a lite bite. The club opens Fri & Sat, 21:00-05:00.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 20/1, tel. (+48) 508 24 91 98, www.coolerclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. W KLUB POMARAŃCZA Continuing the Katowice trend of mistaking a club for an airport, this mega-fun factory just upped the ante and went for a total redesign. Once you clear the metal detector, ample cover-charge and grabby security guards hit the massive dance and be prepared for total sensory overload.

The floor is beset with all manner of synchronized lighting effects, LED Screens, smoke machines and more lasers than the Death Star. Dancers wiggle away on platforms and perches, lovely ladies watch from the balconies above and couples cuddle in the plush booths all around. But this is just the start! There are a total of 3 dance floors, 6 bars, 2 VIP sections spread over 3 floors. They claim this is one of the iyp.me/katowice

Nightlife most modern Dance Clubs in all of Central Europe and it’s hard to disagree.QA‑4, ul. Matejki 3, tel. (+48) 513 60 03 00, www.klubpomarancza.pl. Open 21:00 - 06:00, Wed, Thu 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­W KRÓLESTWO (THE KINGDOM) This kingdom of sound and culinary vision is perched high in the eye of the city right in the middle of all the action. In just under a year this new restaurant and music venue has turned a lot of heads and made a lot of noise. You’ll want to immediately check their FB page to see what upcoming concerts are on as they regularly feature the best local, national and international touring acts and DJs. It is one of the biggest and nicest venues in the city with exceptional sound and amazing views. By day make sure to stop by while you wander across the city as they have perhaps the best lunch specials in the city. Top marks!QC‑2, Rondo gen. Ziętka 1, tel. (+48) 508 39 29 30, www.krolestwo. eu. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. 6­U­E­X­S­W RAJZEFIBER (TRAVEL FEVER) There’s a new king in town and just months after lowering his drawbridge he already has legions of loyal subjects crashing his castle nightly. Rajzefiber has truly achieved a rare and almost impossible feat by successfully filling a huge gap in Katowice’s nightlife with serious style and enviable ease. The city centre club offers an ambitious lineup of great live music AND hot DJs plus offer a menu of quick bar food and rocking cocktails. Upon entering the recently expanded second floor club we had the feeling we’d been coming here for years. The place was totally packed and already jumping at 19:00 on a Saturday. When we came back at 23:00 there was a line 30 people deep waiting to get in! There’s a rising fever for Rajzefiber.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 23/3, tel. (+48) 884 90 51 68, www.rajzefiber. com. Open Fri, Sat only 18:00 - 05:00. X­W

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT QUEENS This well-regarded club features two bars, one wherein girls go-go dance on a table in the middle and it would be difficult to stand up from some of the seats without picking a stripper up on your shoulders. There’s also a Jacuzzi and a sauna and highly suggestive massage services available year round. Queens also seems to operate an escort service, making their girls, who have been charmingly described as “no pros, simply girls of next door, study or are housewives,” available for business and family functions, movie dates and birthdays (their suggestions). This could be the way to finally become the ‘cool uncle’ at the next family barbecue.Qul. Ceglarska 35, Gliwice (Ligota Zabrska), tel. (+48) 32 305 30 20, www. queensnightclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. X iyp.me/polandblog

POLISH VODKA

© Pijalnia Wodki, Fabrizio Sciami

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below.

WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.

KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’

March – June 2018 49

Where once the land was potholed, there now stand architectural wonders. | Š Alex Wiśniewski, courtesy of Katowice City Council

Katowice Sightseeing Industrially designed & thoroughly mined, Katowice is well and truly on its way to shaking its former reputation as an ugly city. Over the years this dynamic city has grown on us and we hope that it does the same to you.

Read on to see what is waiting to be discovered.

Essential Katowice

Christ the King Cathedral

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

Katowice, despite its architectural and cultural renaissance, cannot be described as a top tourist destination like its neighbours Kraków and Wrocław. However, the city, and indeed the entire Silesian Metropolis continues to steadily add interesting museums and attractions to a growing list of eclectic and downright odd sites that make this city absolutely unique. Nope, you won’t find a castle, or palaces, uh, no, no ancient ruins. No Old Town per say. But what you will find is a boatload of Industrial Tourism that will literally take you underground, and a host of cultural events in the UNESCO city of music. After years of languishing, Katowice has undergone a massive renovation and revitalization project that resulted in a literal face-lift and a heart transplant of the city centre. Though there is building work still going on here and there, we finally see the dawn of a new and improving Katowice.

Unlike other urban casualties (hello to our friends in Warsaw), the city can’t claim to have been beaten by the Ugly Stick during World War II. No, Katowice was born with that heirloom in its hand and the Nazis probably snatched

Spodek

Courtesy of Katowice City Council.

it from here as they rumbled east to the capital. And while the Soviets returned with it after the war, destroying many of the buildings on the Rynek in the 1950s to make room for their modern monuments to concrete, it was predestined that Katowice would never be belle of the ball. iyp.me/polandblog

A blue collar city to this day, Katowice and its neighbours in Upper Silesia were born into the working class, growing up during the industrial revolution and put to work in sooty mine shafts, factories and railway yards. The area’s history is inextricably entwined with the manufacture of coal and steel and the stacks, shafts, slag heaps and massive waves of migrants that followed the discovery of the region’s mineral resources. As such, any mention of tourism in the district is usually preceded by the word, ‘industrial.’ Indeed the derelict factories and foundries, blackened chimneys and abandoned maintenance yards of Silesia’s industrial boom represent the bulk of Silesia’s tourist offerings, and the region is ripe for renegade tourists eager to explore evidence of a bygone era. Those interested in industrial tourism are advised to get their hands on a copy of Silesia’s Industrial Monuments Route, which can be picked up free of charge in any Silesian tourist information office (C-4 & O-5), and while we’ve covered many of the entailed sites in this very guide, the region has plenty more to offer than we have space to include here.

The New Headquarters of the NOSPR

Photo by Bartek Barczyk

Katowice, for its part, has become a growing business and cultural centre filled with new venues, cafes, restaurant, pubs and clubs to match all tastes. Those seeking more conventional interpretations of the word attraction will find plenty of cleaned up 19th century architecture in the form of handsome townhouses in the city centre, particularly along ulica 3-go Maja between the Rynek (p.56, C-3) and Plac Wolności (p.56, A-3). If you’re looking for something older, such as churches, Christ the King Cathedral (p.52, B-6) is the country’s largest, although one should not forego the chance to see the charming St. Mary’s church (p.53, E-4) at the end of the pleasant ul. Mariacka. One of the best museums in southern Poland is the Silesian Museum (p.54, K/L-3), on the site of the former Katowice Coal Mine. Conventional charm has obviously never been a strength of Katowice, however, as best evidenced by the bonkers Spodek sport and concert arena (p.57, D-1). Yes, it’s historically always been the shaft (literally) for Katowice, and while being a tourist in this city may once have felt a bit like getting dressed for the theatre and ending up at a Board of Education meeting, things have definitely improved. We hope you enjoy the city for its oddities, and remember, next time you hear negative opinions expressed about Katowice, set the record straight.

March – June 2018 51

Katowice Sightseeing TOURIST INFO & TOURS CITY INFORMATION OFFICE With a several-storey, blinking blue and yellow neon sign, Katowice’s City Information Office is hard to miss! The super-friendly staff can offer time-killing suggestions in English or German and they stock a range of materials about the many things you can see or do across Silesia. Free maps and lots of information available, as well as internet access.QC‑4, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 259 38 08, www.katowice.eu. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. From April open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

NIKISZOWIEC INFORMATION OFFICE Located inside the Industrial Ethnography Museum, this should be the first port of call for anyone visting Nikiszowiec. Here you can pick up souvenirs, a handy free map of the district and other helpful information about what to see. They have free audioguides (Polish, English and German) available to take while walking around Nikoszowiec (valid ID and 50zł deposit required).QO‑5, ul. Rymarska 4 (Industrial Ethnography Museum, Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 255 14 80, www.katowice.eu. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Sat 11:00 - 14:30. Closed Mon, Sun. PTTK KATOWICE Feeling a bit lost or uncertain about Katowice? Take a guided tour with an English, German or Frenchspeaking guide and get an inside perspective on what Katowice has to offer. Dropping by the office won’t do; ring PTTK to make an arrangement. Services available year round.QC‑4, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 253 03 62, www.pttk.katowice.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:15 - 16:00, Sun closed. From April open 09:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

SILESIATRIP.PL Silesia Trip is a useful and comprehensive way to comfortably explore much of the region around Katowice. Offering 24 hour pick-up services from both the Katowice and Kraków airports, Silesia Trip has a plethora of tours, locales, and sights included in their itineraries, including everyday trips to the Guido Mine, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Wieliczka Salt Mine, the historic silver mine in the Tarnów mountains, and the Tyskie Brewery. Tours are available in English, French, Italian, Polish, Spanish and Russian and are targeted for those who have a particular interest in the history, culture and people of Eastern Silesia. They also offer traditional tours with an audio guide starting from their brand new headquarters, info point and souvenir shop on ul.

Mariacka. As of May, the same tours will be available on bike!QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 11, tel. (+48) 502 11 63 31, www.katowice-tours.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sun. 52 Katowice In Your Pocket

St. Mary’s Church

CHURCHES CHRIST THE KING CATHEDRAL Building work began on Zygmunt Gawlik and Franciszek Mączyński’s impressive neo-Classical Cathedral on June 5, 1927 with the digging of a symbolic spade of dirt, although it wasn’t until October 30, 1955 that it was finally consecrated.

A series of minor hiccups including WWII and some typical interference from the post-war communist regime meant that there was no shortage of setbacks for arguably what’s the most beautiful building in the city and, somewhat surprisingly, the largest cathedral in Poland. Its first 12 years leading up to the outbreak of the war saw the walls go up and little else, with the end of hostilities heralding a new burst of activity numbering some six years and involving the arrest of the parish priest, the local bishops being thrown out of the diocese and a communist-approved priest brought in to supervise the building’s completion. The latter’s legacy to the Cathedral was his decision to alter the design of the dome, dropping it by some 38m from its original design and turning what promised to be a truly splendid looking church into something a little more compact and comical.

In 1957 the displaced bishops returned, and during the period 1962-65 the interior was adapted to the way it more or less appears today. Although somewhat plain, the interior is truly breathtaking. Of particular interest is St. Barbara’s Chapel on the left-hand side of the nave. The patron saint of miners, Gerard Grzywaczyk’s sculpture of Barbara overlooks an altar made from coal and a monument to lost miners. Hidden away above the large dome are five bells, of which the largest weighs in at a mammoth 3.5 tonnes. The monument of Pope John Paul II outside commemorates the late church leader’s visit to the Cathedral in June 1983, and a new chapel inside was recently consecrated in his name.

If you call in advance it’s also possible to take a tour with a guide around the Cathedral.QB‑6, ul. Plebiscytowa 49A, tel. (+48) 32 251 21 96, www.katedra.wiara.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00, No visiting during mass please. iyp.me/katowice

Katowice Sightseeing ST. MARY’S CHURCH Katowice’s oldest existing Catholic parish church was built from Silesian dolomite, not the usual red brick, between 1862 and 1870 to a design by the famous Breslau (Wrocław) architect Alexis Langer. Originally planned on a far grander scale than it was eventually built, the 43m-long, 31m-wide neo-Gothic building features an eye-catching, trademark Langer 71m octagonal tower and a feast of good things inside. The altar in the transept supposedly dates from the 15th century, whilst the wonderful stained glass windows on either side of the nave representing sin and virtue are the work of Adam Bunsch (1896-1969). The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament includes a likeness of Father Emil Szramek in traditional Silesian dress.

Szramek was the parish priest from 1926 until his arrest by the Gestapo in April 1940. Sent to a number of concentration camps including Dachau, where he quickly became a spiritual leader for other incarcerated Silesian priests, he was murdered on January 13, 1942.QE‑4, Pl. ks. Emila Szramka 1, tel. (+48) 32 258 77 44, www.mariacki.katowice.pl. Open 08:30 18:30; No visiting during mass please.

MONUMENTS SILESIAN INSURGENTS’ MONUMENT Supposedly the largest and heaviest monument in Poland, this vast bronze edifice is one of Katowice’s most famous landmarks, commemorating the three post-WWI Polish armed uprisings against the German authorities of Upper Silesia in 1919, 1920 and 1921. The monument symbolizes the heroism and sacrifice of the insurgents with an enormous bronze wing for each uprising. Designed by Gustaw Zemła and erected on the site of the city’s Red Army cemetery in 1967, the monument was assembled from 350 parts and weighs a hulking 61 tonnes.

The highest wing reaches 14 metres tall, making it one of the ‘tallest monuments in PL’ behind the 36m Monument of Christ the King in Świebodzin and the 32-metre high Wujek memorial cross on the other side of town (and probably a dozen other monuments in the country).QC‑2, Al. Korfantego.

MUSEUMS KATOWICE HISTORICAL MUSEUM This outstanding museum showcasing some of the more interesting aspects of the life and times of the city and its people is divided into two main sections. You can wander the well thought-out rooms on three floors including a superb recreation of house interiors of the middle and upper classes of the city from 20, 50 and 100 years ago. The other main exhibit “Z dziejów Katowic 1299 - 1865” covers the breadth of the city’s early history before officialy being founded. Entrance to the exhibit is limited to 15 people every half an hour and all descriptions are in English and films have English subtitles. One of the best museums in southern Poland and soon to be even better. Temporary exhibit info can be found on the museum’s website: www.mhk.katowice.plQD‑5, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 17:30, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 15:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Tue free. iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 53

Katowice Sightseeing SILESIAN MUSEUM

The grand opening of the brand new home of the Silesian Museum is perhaps the biggest of Katowice’s recent investment unveilings. The museum’s scope, quality of the permanent exhibitions and the architectural prowess of the newly adapted subterranean chambers are all equally impressive. Approaching the Silesian Museum from the city centre, the first visible element of the museum is the prominent mine shaft hoist tower of the former Katowice Coal Mine. There are dozens of such towers spread all over Silesia, many of which remain operational. This particular mine shaft hoisted its last load of black diamonds in 1999 when the entire mine complex was closed for good after operating for 176 years and hauling over 120 million tonnes of coal! Today, this impressive steel structure has been adapted into an elevator-accessible viewing tower which offers spectacular views of Katowice and other close-lying Silesian suburbs. The next striking feature you will notice are the large transparent glass buildings that cover the entire expanse of terrain. Their presence offers a thoroughly modern counterpoint to the 18th century historical buildings which make up the rest of the museum’s exhibition space. There are six main ‘buildings’ (both old and new) that make up the Silesian Museum campus, a few of which have yet to be opened to the public. Descending into the subterranean chambers of the Silesian Museum the impressive interiors open up before your eyes. The main museum is spread out over four underground levels and has a floor area of nearly 25,000 m², of which 6,000 m² is devoted to exhibition space (both permanent and temporary) - all of which has been adapted from the former tunnels, shafts and workshops of the former mine.QL‑3, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, www.muzeumslaskie.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 24/16zł, family ticket 62zł (for 3-10 people including seasonal entrance to the viewing platform), Tue free. Group tickets (10 or more) are 18/12zł per person. Seasonal viewing platform tickets without Musuem access but includes entrance to forge ans mechanical workshop: 6/4zł and family 16zł.

54 Katowice In Your Pocket

SILESIAN MUSEUM - THE GRAND HOTEL Housed inside a glorious neo-Renaissance turn of the century hotel, the former headquarters of the Silesian Museum (1984-2015) dates back to the 1920s. There are only temporary exhibitions now as the permanent collection has been moved to the new Silesian Museum headquarters at ul. T. Dobrowolskiego 1. The original Silesia Museum had actually been completed in 1939 however the beautiful and massive modernist building was destroyed in the war before the exhibitions were even installed. After the war the Silesian Museum and it’s remaining collections fought and sought to find a permanent home but political instability made it almost impossible. Finally in 1984 the Silesian Museum opened in the Grand Hotel, however, from the very start its tenure in this location was considered temporary. The relocation of the permanent collection to the new site down the road at the former Katowice Coal Mine was planned for fifteen years and took almost ten years to complete.

QC‑3, Al. W. Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 93 00, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket (3-10 people) 16zł.

They now offer combined tickets for both Museum locations - 27/18zł, Group tickets (10+ people) 21/13zł per person, Family ticket 70zł. Group tickets only for The Grand Hotel 5/3zł (10+ people).

Silesian Museum - The Grand Hotel

photo M. Jędrzejowski.

WALCOWNIA CYNKU: ZINC METALLURGY MUSEUM If you haven’t noticed already, Katowice, and Silesia as a whole, is big on industrial tourism. If this is where your interests lie, then ‘Walcownia Cynku’ (Zinc Metallurgy Museum) will be right up your street! Originally opened in 1904 near Huta Bernhard (Bernhard Steelworks), the Zinc rolling mill hall (91x20m) and the engine Room (70x6m) functioned right up until 2002! The interior is filled with the majority of original machinery, so walking around, you have an opportunity to soak up the atmosphere of the place. The main function of Walcownia is a museum, which event contains a collection of American motorcycles, however, it also hosts cultural and corporate events, and for any budding photographers and filmographers, it can even be used as a backdrop for iyp.me/katowice

Katowice Sightseeing your next shoot!Qul. 11 Listopada 50, tel. (+48) 727 60 01 86, www.walcownia.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Admission 10/8zł. Family ticket 30zł (two adults and at least two children). Children under 3 enter for free.

Tue free. Guided tours available in English and German (call in advance to book). U

PLACES OF INTEREST CLOUD SCRAPER ‘Flying Saucer’ and ‘Cloud Scraper’: Katowice’s landmarks may be lacking a bit of colour but they certainly have colourful names. Drapacz Chmur is another local icon whose beauty and relevance may have faded, but perhaps no building more represents the optimism of Katowice’s autonomous inter-war years. Although unimpressive by today’s standards and hardly even able to get its chin above the neighbours, this was the second skyscraper built in Poland. The work of architect Tadeusz Kozłowski and engineer Stefan Bryła, the structure was completed in 1934 following five years of work.

Measuring 60 metres in height, it remained the tallest building in Poland until 1955 when it was surpassed by Warsaw’s monstrous Palace of Culture and Science. The steel-framed building was touted as 17 storeys (counting its three subterranean levels), and was one of the first in the country equipped with garbage chutes. As the tallest thing in town Cloud Scraper was used as a sniper station during the short-lived defence of Katowice against Nazi occupation. Though built during an era when decent design sense still prevailed, Cloud Scraper was well ahead of its time and today stands inconspicuously as a prime example of functionalist architecture.QA‑5, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 15.

INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS CENTRE The newest architectural jewel in Katowice’s eclectic crown and this one comes with rooftop grass carpeting (keep off the grass!). And like any good carpet, it really ties the proverbial ‘room’ together (ie the city centre) and it does the seemingly impossible by forming a highly functional and even elegant emerald ‘bridge’ between the socialist Sci-Fi Spodek and the more modernist NOSPR building. This huge multipurpose facility is more than just its mossy exterior though. With the capacity to accommodate 15,000 visitors, coupled with the Spodek Arena next door, it is one of the largest venues in Poland for conferences, exhibitions, trade fairs and of course sporting events. Check our Culture and Events section or log onto their website for the latest upcoming events in, on and around this breathtaking new facility.QD‑1, Plac Sławika i Antalla 1, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.mckkatowice.pl.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 55

Katowice Sightseeing STREET ART

Rooster by ARYZ on ul. Mariacka Tylna.

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. The art form actually flourished under communism and these stylish high-minded aesthetics (although faded) can still be found around the country’s walls. In the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around Katowice. Surprisingly, city authorities have even taken the step of sponsoring some large scale murals to playfully embellish public spaces. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Katowice’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and footballrelated graffiti. The best thing about street art is that you can visit it anytime of the year, wind, rain or shine - we recommend checking out the yearly plans for the Katowice Street Art Festival (AiR, for short), and you may be lucky to see some street art being created.

At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Katowice as we have catalogued and GPSed street art addresses throughout the city. We’ve marked each place with a spray can symbol on the maps in the back of our guide, so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Katowice’s urban art. Even if you’re only in the city for a short time, you can visit central locations, from the fantastic ‘Zachód Słońce’ (Sunset) neon sign above the River Rawa in the Rynek (C-3) to the crowning glory, ul.

Mariacka Tylna (D-4) and the immediate surrounding area through the underpass and under the rail bridges, where there are more than enough murals by international and local artists to appease your appetite!

From Belgium’s ROA, Spain’s ARYZ, and local Polish and Silesian talents Raspazjan and Mona Tusz, you won’t be disappointed with your street art walkabout.

Also, wandering around Kato, you’ll stumble across painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes. They are frequently changed and too many to mention, but you’ll no doubt see plenty of box and wall sketchings on your travels around the city. Happy hunting.

56 Katowice In Your Pocket

PLAC WOLNOŚCI Likely due to a lack of competition, this small oval of greenish pleasantry west of the train station stands out from Katowice’s urban tangle as one of the city’s more recognisable landmarks and orientation points. From the first city plan in the 1860s, this square was designed as a main axis point and was already home to Kattowitz’s first Catholic church (later destroyed during the rapid, thoughtless expansion of the turn of the 20th century).

Then known as ‘Wilhelmsplatz’, the square first sported a monument of Kaisers Wilhelm I and Frederic III looking rather buddy-buddy atop a large pedastal. After Katowice’s post-WWI promotion to capital of the autonomous nowPolish province of Silesia, hero of the Silesian Uprisings, Wojciech Korfanty, and city president Stanisław Wojciechowski unveiled the memorial Tomb of the Unknown Insurgent in 1923. The space’s new identity as ‘Freedom Square’ soon became ironic, however, when that memorial was replaced with a monument of two thuggish tommy-gun wielding Red Army soldiers standing atop a truly hideous concrete pedestal which was finally removed in 2014 after years of protests. Just east of where the monument used to stand you’ll find a small and rather ugly fountain, and the square is also surrounded by several unremarkable buildings, with the exception of the monumental neo-Renaissance Goldstein Palace at number 12A. Built in 1875, this building formerly housed the Chamber of Commerce, becoming the local branch of the dubious Polish-Soviet Friendship Association after WWII. Having most recently seen life as a restaurant, the Goldstein House has been repossessed by the city and currently functions as the City Civil Affairs Office.QA‑3.

Plac Wolności

Jan Mehlich, CC-BY-SA-3.0

RYNEK (MARKET SQUARE) Until recently, one could easily be forgiven for standing in the middle of the market square and trying to find the market square. The construction works finished and the snazzy new Rynek 2.0 is complete with a flowing river, deck chairs and trees. Before the massive overhaul (and we mean massive!), Katowice’s ‘Rynek’ was basically a large traffic roundabout and tram stop surrounded by a faded collection of mismatched buildings in architectural styles that had mostly fallen out of favour, if they ever iyp.me/katowice

Katowice Sightseeing engendered any enthusiasm to begin with. For years the city has known that turning its market square into, you know, an actual market square, would be a crucial step toward becoming a respectable Polish city. A plan to modernise and pedestrianise the Rynek was put in place as far back as 2008. The first step was modernising the Sovietera monstrosity at ul. Młyńska that uglied up an entire block of the Rynek and they elegantly transformed it into the new modern City Hall.QC‑3/4.

SILESIAN PARLIAMENT A standing testament to Katowice’s short-lived ‘golden age,’ the Silesian Parliament complex covers an entire city block between Jagiellońska, Reymonta, Ligonia and Lompy streets and was the largest structure in PL before Stalin ‘gifted’ Warsaw with a certain monstrosity. Completed in 1929, the Parliament complex served as the governing seat of Silesia after the province was inexplicably granted autonomy following WWI. Unfortunately Hitler failed to observe the region’s sovereignty when he reclaimed it for the Reich after a short 19 years of self-government. After WWII, the new Polish government stripped Silesia of its prestige, confused by how Katowice could possibly have ever been considered the second capital of PL. Today the Parliament buildings house the offices of the Silesian Voivodeship, though many have changed function and more still are solely occupied by wistful memories of bygone days.QD‑5/6, Plac Sejmu Śląskiego.

SPODEK In 1958 the Association of Polish Architects ran a competition to design a new stadium in Katowice. Won by a Warsaw company and designed by Maciej Gintowt and Maciej Krasiński, the resulting Wojewódzka Hala Widowiskowo-Sportowa w Katowicach (translating something like ‘Katowice Province Spectator & Sports Arena’) was built in stages between 1964 and 1971, and at 246,624 square metres is the one of the largest, certainly one of the strangest and, to some, the most beautiful piece of reinforced concrete in Poland. Nicknamed ‘Latający Spodek’ (Flying Saucer) the building was originally going to be built in Silesia Park but because of its avant-garde appearance finally landed in the city centre. Holding 11,000 people part of the building was in use in 1969, though the grand opening only took place on May 9, 1971. The reason for this delay was simple – in their wisdom the designers had picked a landsite suffering ‘medium mine damage’. That meant the possibility of cave-ins and collapse so the building was road-tested by 3,500 stamping (and dare we say it, nervous) soldiers. Given the thumbs-up by equally relieved engineers the building has been inspiring and amusing people ever since. A popular sporting venue, Spodek is also Katowice’s number one place for international concerts, having hosted a disparate collection of stars including Metallica and Depeche Mode. Today it also houses the Diament Spodek Hotel, and according to urban legend, the classic tune from Spielberg’s ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ plays every time the building’s lights go on.QD‑1, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.spodekkatowice.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 57

Silesia Park

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Silesia Park Aside from perhaps Warsaw, Upper Silesia, and particularly its ‘capital’ city, Katowice, always felt like the region of Poland most buggered by the communists. The scars were sadly everywhere, from the once brutal, artless architecture of Katowice’s downtown to the highway overpass that passes for Chorzów’s market square, not to mention the gigantic smokestacks, abandoned pit heads and dilapidated mining complexes strewn about. However, Poland’s communist regime was not completely without forward vision and only a few years after ‘inheriting’ the stripped industrial wastes of Upper Silesia after World War II, party leaders earmarked a vast 620 hectare plot on the borderlands of Katowice and Chorzów with the intention of creating the largest urban park in Europe. Like many PRL development projects, the party vision didn’t simply call for setting aside some open space for public use, but building a communist super park that would deliver entertainment, art, education, culture and sports to the masses. Nor was the land in question an untouched patch of wilderness. On the contrary, the designated area was 75 percent devastated by mining and industrial waste, with the rest being undesirable marshland and dead trees. Under the direction of local hero Jerzy Ziętek, an important Silesian Insurrectionist turned politician, work began as early as 1950 on what was to become known (until recently) as the Provincial Park of Culture and Recreation (Wojewódzki Park Kultury i Wypoczynku or WPKiW): one of the most ambitious and pioneering environmental renewal projects ever undertaken in Europe.

In typical party fashion, Silesia’s working class was strongly encouraged to participate in the creation of this ‘people’s park’. Support for the project was massive, and indeed everyone from industrial workers to school children (wait, that is everyone) joined in the digging and planting of an astounding 3.5 million trees and shrubs in the first year alone, as the project moved forward at a record clip. Over 70 different plant species were introduced, primarily poplar, willow, birch, black cherry and elderberry trees known for their ability to grow quickly and resist the effects of the industrial pollution that characterised the ‘Black Triangle’, as the region was then known. In total 3.5 million tonnes of soil were moved to shape the area of the park, and 500,000 cubic metres of humus used to fertilise it. After completing the rehabilitation of the park’s landscape, the park committee systematically set about establishing a series of attractions in the vast space of WPKiW, including the amusement park, zoo, planetarium, narrow-gauge railway, Silesian Stadium, Elka cableway and others as the park developed intensively in the 50s, 60s and 70s.

Two zones were essentially created which remain today, with the rear half left natural and the attractions stacked toward ul. Chorzowska where the main entry points to the park are located. In the 1970s as many as 1,300 people were employed by WPKiW, of which 500 worked on the landscaping of the park (today about 40 people do this job). iyp.me/polandblog

GETTING THERE Silesia possesses not only the largest park in PL, but all of Europe in Chorzów’s Silesia Park, which features dozens of attractions within its 620 hectares. Getting there from Katowice is as easy as hopping on a tram or bus (tram being the fastest). There are four tram and bus stops along the course of the park: ‘Park Śląski Wesołe Miasteczko’ (amusement park), ‘Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny’ (the zoo), ‘Park Śląski Wejście Główne’ (main entrance) and ‘Chorzów Stadion Śląski’ (Silesian Stadium). Take trams 6, 11 or 19; or buses 6, 820, 830 or 840 (getting off at Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny).

Chorzów is in zone 2 of Katowice’s public transport system so we recommend getting a 3,80zł zone 2 ticket which will get you to the park comfortably and beyond.

In 1989 when the communist regime crumbled, the park began a period of stagnation. However, WPKiK has been on the rebound since it became a public enterprise subsidised by the state budget in 2003, and today is on the way to reestablishing itself as one of southern Poland’s biggest tourist attractions. The last several years have seen an official name change to the much more parsable ‘Silesia Park,’ world-class rides added to the amusement park, as well as the opening of parks for more popular modern pursuits including the rope park and dirt bike course. Numerous new restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels continue to open in and around the park. The total modernisation of Silesian Stadium (Stadion Śląski) – one of the first attractions to open in WPKiK in the 50s – is nearing completing and looks set to have a seating capacity of 55,000, adding sky and press boxes and a partial dome that will cover all of the seating.

Despite tought times, today the attractions of Silesia Park still stand in a state of transition between faded communist funpark and modern wonderland, making a visit all the more unique. The contrast is most evident in the amusement park, where original rides and games from its opening days are still in use. There can be no doubt that Silesia Park has the potential to develop into one of the greatest parks in all of Europe; and in the heart of Upper Silesia, no less. Enjoy it.

Planetarium

Jacek Cegła on flickr.com

March – June 2018 59

Silesia Park www.planetarium.edu.pl. Observatory open 09:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Sky Shows open 17:00; Sat, Sun 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00. Closed Mon. Regular admission 2zł (observatory), weather station 4zł, seismic observatory 3zł, sky show 12/6zł, families up to 4 people 30zł.

Get in the Swing of things at the oldest Amusement Park in WPKiW Poland.

LEGENDIA AMUSEMENT PARK Opened in 1959, Poland has yet to build a larger amusement park than this dated wonder in Chorzów. If you’re a fan of old amusement parks like Vienna’s Prater, you’ll get a kick out of this product of a bygone era which features some rides and amusements that literally date back 50 years, among them a drenching water ride, haunted house ride and a couple twirling whirligig rides. The park is currently undergoing a revamp so there are plenty of more modern thrills to get excited about, including the ‘Tornado’ - the highest, fastest rollercoaster in PL, with two 360 degree loops. With 40 attractions in all and your admission fee is good for all of them, as many times as you want, until the park closes for the evening. Overall it’s a fun outing, in turns amusing, amazing and depressing; one of a kind at any rate.

A seasonal attraction, the park is open from April until the end of October.QI‑2, Plac Atrakcji 1, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 666 03 11 96, www.legendia.pl. From March 31 open every Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 only. All day tickets for kids (6-12 years old) and seniors (69+ years old) is 69zł. All day tickets for kids (12+) and for Adults is 89zł.

Children under 3 years old 1zł.

PLANETARIUM Opened in 1955 to commemorate Poland’s greatest astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus - of whom a fine statue can be found outside - this is the country’s oldest planetarium, which given the time period isn’t necessarily a good thing.

Located along the cracked pavements of Silesia Park, while charming in intent the actual building is a quite depressed, somewhat scrubby 23m concrete dome. The large auditorium now shows a new astrological show entitled “Structures of the Universe”, although it is currently only available in Polish. There is also a working observatory with a 30cm Zeiss telescope, seismic observatory and weather station, we’re reliably informed the full sky show can be arranged in English. If you dig 50s sci-fi, you’ll get a kick out of this; otherwise this throwback may be a disappointment.

QR‑5, Al. Planetarium 4, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 745 27 28, 60 Katowice In Your Pocket

UPPER SILESIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC PARK This fantastic open-air folk park presents rural Silesian life through its aged architectural monuments. Since the late 60s, Chorzów’s ‘skansen’ has been rescuing endangered or forgotten Silesian structures by hoisting them up and dropping them in this makeshift village laid out over 20 hectares of idyllic countryside. Grouped into six ethnographic regions, visitors explore some 100 buildings dating from the late 18th to early 20th century, including traditional thatched-roof homes, granaries, historic wooden churches, wayside shrines and windmills. Many of the buildings are open with indoor exhibits and an informative staff on hand. There’s even an old karczma (inn) where you can get a bite to eat and a beer. One of the farms even has a few goats, sheep and horses, adding some extra magic to this romantic village of architectural artefacts saved from extinction.QQ‑4, ul. Parkowa 25, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 241 07 18, www.muzeumgpe-chorzow.pl.

Museum and Karczma open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. From May open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7zł. Children under 3 enter for free. Mon free.

ZOO Located in Silesia Park, PL’s largest zoo is a massive 50 hectare extravaganza with 2,681 animals of 312 species from all over the world, including crowd favourites such as hippos, rhinos, Siberian tigers and cheetahs. The kids will be thoroughly enthralled thanks to a petting zoo and Dinosaur Valley, which features some rather silly concrete dinos.

Feeding times for red pandas daily at 12:00, pelicans 09:30 & 17:00 and brown bears Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 14:00.QI‑1, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka 7 (Park of Culture & Recreation, Chorzów), tel. (+48) 666 03 14 96, www.zoo.silesia.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. From April open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. From May open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Tickets 15/5zł, family 35zł. From April tickets 20/10zł, family 50zł.

A Bear Bush - why not?!

iyp.me/katowice

Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec

Those aren’t remnants of sinkholes - it’s wonderful Nikiszowiec! | Photo: Industriada.pl

The former workers’ district of Nikiszowiec is home to some highly unique early 20th century architecture as well as an excellent modern art gallery, a magnificent church and a few additional offbeat attractions. This forgotten attempt at plebeian paradise is earmarked on Silesia’s ‘Industrial Monuments Route’(available at all Silesian tourist information offices) and offers intrepid visitors a confounding, yet fascinating glimpse at a foregone age. While not long ago a walk around the neighbourhood may have been a dicey prospect, cafes and culture are now beginning to creep into this part of town and you’re no longer likely to be the only tourist prowling around. Perfect for a photo essay, charge up your camera battery and off you go.

Built between 1908 and 1912 to house workers in the backyard of their place of employment – the large smokechurning Wieczorek (formerly ‘Giesche’) coal mine – the enclosed residential complex of Nikiszowiec is composed of six compact four-sided three-storey blocks with inner courtyards. Distinguished by its uniformity of style – red brick buildings accented with red-painted windowframing, and narrow streets joined by handsome arcades – the neighbourhood was designed by Georg and Emil Zillman of Berlin-Charlottenburg to be a completely self-sufficient community for 1,000 workers with a school, hospital, police station, post office, swimming pool, bakery and church.

Thanks to WWI and the subsequent Silesian Uprisings – during which time Nikiszowiec saw fierce fighting, and was afterwards incorporated into Poland – St. Anne’s Church (Pl. Wyzwolenia 21) wasn’t able to be finished until 1927, but became the crowning glory of the neighbourhood as soon as it was. Though it would ironically seem to be a socialist planners’ wet dream, Nikiszowiec actually makes a happy, iyp.me/polandblog

handsome departure from downtown Katowice and has become a prized location for amateur photographers and budding filmmakers due to the fact that it has remained virtually unchanged since the Second World War. City marketers have also recognised the district’s uniqueness with increasing efforts to draw tourist attention to the area and a long campaign afoot to fasten Nikiszowiec to the UNESCO Heritage List. Though the district is generally safe to wander, you should still exercise sensible precautions about where you stick both your nose and that fancy new digital camera; and who you do it in front of.

GETTING TO NIKISZOWIEC Only 8km/20mins from Katowice city centre, getting to Nikiszowiec and Giszowiec is simple. There are four bus options - no.s 30 (every 30 mins) and 920 (every 30/60 mins) travel from Al. Korfantego in front of the Katowice Hotel (C-3), the only difference being the no.30 travels to Nikiszowiec (Szyb Wilson stop) then Giszowiec (Mysłowicka stop), whereas 920 goes to Giszowiec first (Mysłowicka stop) followed

by Nikiszowiec (Szyb Pułaski stop). From Katowice Dworzec (B-4) bus no. 674 (every 30 mins) goes to Giszowiec Mysłowicka stop then Nikiszowiec Szyb Pułaski stop, and bus no. 930 (every hour, from Katowice Dworzec and Al. Korfantego) goes directly to Nikiszowiec main square (Nikiszowiec Kościół stop) missing out Giszowiec. All stops are within Zone 1 of Katowice’s public transport network, passengers will only need a normal 3,20zł fare ticket.

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Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec NIKISZOWIEC Begin your adventure by hopping a bus to the Wilson Shaft Gallery. From the Wilson Gallery it is a short eight minute walk (or one bus stop) down ul. Szopienicka into Nikiszowiec proper; you’ll know it by its uniquely uniform architecture, gruesome water tower, leering smokestacks and the church spire marking its centre. Make a left onto ul. Zofii Nałkowskiej (towards Eurohotel and the ice rink complex) and then your first right to officially enter the district on ul. Rymarska and you’ll pass the Tourist Information Office inside the Industrial Ethnography Museum - a recently unveiled branch of the Katowice Historical Museum at number 4. Here you can pick up a handy free map as well as other information about the district. The museum illustrates the everyday lives of the region’s miners and other blue-collar folks through a series of ethnographic exhibits, including an interesting gallery of painting by Nikiszowiec’s renowned Janowska Group, and shouldn’t be missed.

WILSON SHAFT GALLERY Just north of the centre of Nikiszowiec (3km by official measure), this seemingly obscure and certainly under appreciated modern art gallery is arguably Katowice’s best art space and one of the primary highlights of a trip to Nikiszowiec. Located in the pithead building and bathhouse of the old Wilson shaft of the Wieczorek mine, the buildings now occupied by the gallery date back to 1918, and were designed by the same Zillman brother tandem behind the Nikiszowiec housing district. The dilapidated mineshaft, where excavations began back in 1864, can still be seen in glorious ruin behind the gallery buildings, having ceased operation in 1997. Taken over by the ‘Pro Inwest’ company and adapted into exhibition and office spaces, the area around the Wilson shaft is now filled with brightly-painted outdoor sculptures in sharp contrast to the industrial surroundings, as well as a muraled entrance wall full of colourful pop culture icons (making it hard to miss). Not only is it admission free but the mini-buffet is a great option for breakfast or lunch (Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00).

To get there jump off bus 30 or 109 at the ‘Nikiszowiec Szyb Wilson’ stop on ul. Szopienicka.QO‑4, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, www.szybwilson. org. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

INDUSTRIAL ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM Located in Nikiszowiec, this branch of the Katowice Historical Museum is unique in its emphasis on ethnography and folk culture, approaching the topic from an urban, rather than rural, perspective. A collection of artefacts and cultural assets tells the everyday stories of Upper Silesia’s working class (primarily miners) from the period of early industrial development (mid-19th century) to the 1960s. More specifically you’ll see evidence of how this large demographic has lived, worked and celebrated over the years through exhibits of clothing, ceremonial costumes, tools, household items, religious objects and art. They also have three permanent exhibitions on display.

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St Anne’s watches over Nikiszowiec

The first is devoted to the Janowska Group - a collection of Nikiszowiec miners including Teofil Ociepka, Paweł Wróbel, Erwin Sówka and Ewald Gawlik (more of Gawlik’s work can be seen in two Giszowiec galleries) who gained renown for their ‘naive’ painting. Another exhibit is a replication of a typical Nikiszowiec worker’s house. The final exhibit goes even deeper and delves into the various laundering techniques used in the district’s heyday (it’s more interesting than it sounds and has English titles). The helpful Nikiszowiec tourist info centre is also in the same building.QO‑5, ul. Rymarska 4 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 353 95 59, www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł.Tue free. U ST. ANNE’S CHURCH A welcome diversion from the smokestacks dominating the roofline of the district’s other side, this magnificent building incorporates Baroque design with two bell towers and a timepieced steeple, while blending into its surroundings without any of the ghastly and gratuitous exterior decoration associated with the style; make sure you take a stroll down ul. Św. Anny for the most photogenic views. If you’re lucky enough to get inside, take notice of the amazing 5,350 pipe organ and highly ornate Zillman chandelier. Please be respectful though and no visiting during masses.QO‑5, Pl. Wyzwolenia 21 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 356 96 22, www.sw-anna.wiara.org.pl.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please.

GISZOWIEC While Nikiszowiec is a fascinating, highly photogenic adventure out of Katowice’s centre, we can’t pretend to promote the same thing about its fraternal twin Giszowiec it simply isn’t what it once was. That’s not to say there aren’t a few places of note, however, if you are rushed for time and not sure which to visit, we’d recommend Niki over Giszi.

Another workers’ colony, the Zillmans took a completely different conceptual approach with Giszowiec, designing an ideal ‘garden city’ for local miners based on the ideas of iyp.me/katowice

Nikiszowiec & Giszowiec famous British urban planner Ebenezer Howard. Modelled on rural English cottages, the original dwellings are low, freestanding, sloped roof houses surrounded by garden plots. Built between 1906 and 1910, the neighbourhood was arranged as a web of streets extending from Plac Pod Lipami (N-7) – the central square surrounded by public buildings, shops, a restaurant and school. The project included a public laundry, a women’s bathhouse, theatre, quarantine barracks for the diseased, a prison and a strict set of guidelines to ensure the precious ‘English village’ atmosphere wouldn’t be lost. Originally built for workers at the ‘Wieczorek’ coal mine, when the new ‘Staszic’ coal mine opened nearby in 1964 additional dwellings had to be provided and the minds of the day decided to demolish their ideal ‘garden city’ in favour of ten-storey apartment blocks fashioned out of pre-cast concrete slabs. The result was the labyrinth of hideous tower blocks you see today.

In 1978 the destruction was stopped when some clever conservator decided to try and enter the urban structure of Giszowiec into the Registry of Historic Places; he succeeded, but only after two-thirds of the original buildings had been demolished, the charm of the remaining third being utterly overshadowed by the soulless new buildings surrounding them. As such, a trip to Giszowiec today entails steeling your stomach through the maze of concrete monoliths at its northern edge in order to reach the centre square where you’ll find the Municipal Cultural Centre (Pl. Pod Lipami 1, open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun) and Dworek Pod Lipami restaurant (food?!) sharing the main building, as well as the Gawlikówka - a small gallery dedicated to the art of late native folk painter Ewald Gawlik. En route you’ll pass a few of the original cottage dwellings, and while we’ll admit they’re charming, if you’ve ever seen a rural residential neighbourhood during your lifetime, there’s not a whole lot to remark about them. Undoubtedly the most interesting building in the area is the old schoolhouse at Pl. Pod Lipami 2, which still functions as a kindergarten.

With a metal stag head and cross (Jagermeister, anyone?) adorning the clock-tower, the building possesses a spooky evocative power, particularly at nightfall when the clockface suddenly becomes as luminous as a full moon. All told, Giszowiec still captures some small town charm, despite being a shadow of what it must have been. If you enjoy the small pleasures of being a stranger in a strange land, an excursion out to these two historic labour communities might just be the bizarre highlight of your time in Silesia.

EAT & DRINK CAFE BYFYJ This is the heart and soul of Nikiszowiec. Grab a table inside in the bright white and soft light interior, or outside on their breezy bricked terrace (with gas heater should it get cold!). The friendly waitstaff will take it from there and catch you up on all the savoury and sweet quiches, cakes, tarts, pizzas and daily lunch specials. Don’t overlook the beverages because they serve up some of the best coffee drinks around, not to mention organic juices, cool-colas, beers (low alko % as well) and prosecco. Above all, come to Byfyj for the ambience and start to get a knack for what Niki’s really all about.QO‑5, ul.

Krawczyka 5 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 696 73 08 01, www.piekarniamichalski.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. T­6­U­B­S­W NEW ŚLĄSKA PROHIBICJA Up until recently in Nikiszowiec, there were only cafes to eat in should you get peckish, but that has now changed with the opening of Śląska Prohibicja (Silesian Prohibition). Going with a modern take on 1920s decor, this is a building with a whopping 700m2 of space across 5 rooms (one main area and 4 smaller rooms that accommodate 50-60 people); not just for restaurant use, but also for events such as weddings, and even musical performances (which take place Fri/Sat evenings and Sun lunchtime). Fans of gastronomy will be eager to know that the head chef is Magdalena Nowaczewska, winner of the 5th edition of Poland’s Master Chef, and it shows, for the food (taking inspiration from international and regional cuisine) is delightfully prepared, with the taste matching the appearance. A fantastic addition to this charming part of Katowice.Qul. Krawczyka 1, tel. (+48) 32 723 28 99, www.slaskaprohibicja.pl.

Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. T­U­ E­B­S­W ZILLMANN TEA & COFFEE Named after the designers of the neighbourhood, this sophisticated cafe and drink bar brings a bit of class to Niki’s central square. The exposed brick and dark wood interiors correspond swimmingly to the hushed and jazzy atmosphere that almost demands liquid companionship. Whether you stop in for a morning cappuccino and cake, a bagel, ice-cream or you slip in to sip a local microbrew in the afternoon, Zillman will accommodate you quite nicely. Classy glass and shiny brass for the working class.QO‑5, Pl. Wyzwolenia 3/1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 797 757 010. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. T­6­ N­B­S­W

Tower blocks loom ominously in Giszowiec

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March – June 2018 63

Beskidy | Photo by J. Krawczyk, slaskie.travel

Further Afield Silesian Region

Prospective foreign travellers putting together their Polish tourist itineraries have a tendency to regard Katowice and the greater Silesian region surrounding it as an acne-scarred unwanted stepchild. However, what few people know is that this is one of the most dynamically developing regions in all of Poland with a lot to offer the open minded tourist, businessman, post-industrial and outdoor enthusiasts.

This section highlights some of Silesia’s most interesting things to see and do, from visiting stunning mountain ranges all the way to enjoying castles from the middle-ages!

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Further Afield

Ogrodzieniec Castle

foto: T. Gębuś, archiv Śląska Organizacja Turystyczna

OGRODZIENIEC CASTLE Just 50km from Katowice and an hour’s drive away, Ogrodzieniec Castle offers stunning views in the Jura Upland. Perched atop the highest point in the KrakówCzęstochowa Upland chain at 504 metres, this legendary castle is surrounded by the most picturesque, imposing inselbergs in the area. The castle is located about 2km east of Ogrodzieniec in Podzamcze. Like the other Jura castles, Ogrodzieniec was built on the initiative of King Kazimierz in the 14th century before the (unfortunately surnamed) Boner family enlarged and converted it into a Renaissance residence in 1532. Subsequently destroyed three times, it fell into ruin. Today it’s a picturesque ruin eclipsing all others in the country, maze of dead ends and dizzying vantage points. Admission is required via a tourist info office inside the courtyard. A seasonal cafe is found in one cellar as well as a touristy torture chamber.

Qul. Zamkowa, Podzamcze, tel. (+48) 32 673 22 85, www.zamek-ogrodzieniec.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

From April open 09:00 - 18:00. From May open 09:00 20:00. Admission 12/8zł. Children under 6 free.

SILESIAN TOURISM ORGANISATION So you’ve arrived in Katowice, had a look around in the city and surrounding area and thought to yourself ‘Wow, there’s more to this place than I first thought!’, and we would wholeheartedly agree. To this end, we encourage you to visit other areas of interest across the greater Silesian region - you will not be disappointed. There’s a lot to see, and Katowice is a great starting point for all trips. Whatever your interests, the Silesian Tourism Organisation (Śląska Organizacja Turystyczna) is a fantastic resource that can help you with your planning! Happily visit their site www. silesia.travel for in-depth information, or visit the tourist information office in Katowice’s main square for a wealth of useful resources and guides to the gems of Silesia.

Starting in the city in places like Nikiszowiec (p.61) and the Silesian Museum (p.54), and working outward, you

QUEEN LOUISE ADIT The Królowa Luiza mine first opened for business in 1791 a year after Salomon Izaak first discovered coal below ground.

Ranked as one of the oldest mines in the region, your visit will start off on the ground level where you’ll find chunky pieces of machinery, photo displays, buildings and other industrial detritus clustered around the old ‘Karnell’ shaft.

Pride of place goes to a steam-powered hoist that made its debut in 1915 to a design born in Duelmen, Germany. Every bit as impressive is the 30 metre hoist next to it; open to visitors the views at the top allow for sweeping panoramas of the city. Open daily with the possibility of tours in English but you have to book your tour in advance (19:30 the latest) so check their website or contact them by phone daily 08:30-21:00.Qul. Wolności 410, Zabrze (Zaborze Północ), tel. (+48) 32 271 40 77, www.sztolnialuiza.pl.

Open daily 08:00 - 20:00. Last entry for tourists 17:00. An Underground Journey Through Time: Mon-Sun: 40zł (normal) 45zł (reduced). Hunting for Coal: Mon-Sun: 45zł (normal) 40zł (reduced).

Queen Louise Adit

foto: R. Kaźmierczak

can visit 43 sites connected to the Industrial Monuments Route, from factories to mines found on the UNESCO World Heritage List! If going back in time is your thing, follow the trail of wooden architecture too! Going further, you will find attractions connected to nature (and history!), in the form of the Jura Upland, where you can also follow the trail of the Eagles’ Nests - a fascinating walking route following 16 structures (mostly castles) built during the reign of Casimir III the Great on the then border of Poland, protecting it from invaders. The outdoor attractions don’t end there, as you visit the crowning glory in the form of the Beskid mountain range, great for hillwalkers, cyclists and skiers alike! For foodies, or for anyone travelling in Silesia for any of their chosen trips, it’s also advisable to try the local cuisine, and the Silesian Tourism Organisation has this very need in mind with their ‘Silesian Tastes’ culinary trail.

Silesian Region Tourist Information Site: www.slaskie.travel ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail: www.slaskiesmaki.pl The Eagles’ Nests Trail: www.orlegniazda.pl The Industrial Monuments Trail: www.zabytkitechniki.pl Kraków-Częstochowa Jura Upland Site: www.jura.travel iyp.me/polandblog

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Tychy

Tyskie Brewery | Photo By Kompania Piwowarska SA

Although the ubiquitous Tyskie beer has become one of the most recognisable Polish exports (not to mention the reigning king of domestic brews for almost 200 years), few visitors to Poland realise its name is actually derived from the very Silesian town it has been brewed in since the 17th century: Tychy. This now-thriving Silesian suburb is located a mere 20km south of Katowice and is well-connected to the Katowice mothership. Although it isn’t as close to, nor as expansive as some of Silesia’s other urban centres, Tychy has a lot to offer curious day-trippers, potential investors and vacationers alike.

The rather curious Polish name of Tychy (German ‘Tichau’) is derived from the Polish word cichy or ‘quiet.’ Tychy was indeed nothing more than a sleepy village from the time it first appeared on a medieval map in the mid-15th

GETTING TO TYCHY Tychy is well connected to Katowice by Silesian rail.

Trains leave for Tychy every 20-30 minutes from Katowice central train station and the journey takes around 25 minutes, with a cost of only 6zł. If you are looking to get to either the Tyskie Brewery or Obywatelskie Brewery make sure to get off at the TYCHY train station. If you are looking to get to Lake Paprocanskie or any of the hotels in the centre (Hotel Tychy, Hotel Piramida) make sure you get off at TYCHY LODOWISKO station. If you are planning to come by car head south from Katowice on the E75 and drive about 20 minutes until you reach Tychy.

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century until well into the 17th century. It was then that the lords of beer arrived and deemed this land worthy to be brewed upon (they were literally lords as well). And thus the Browar Książęcy [K’shown’zhen-tse] began its illustrious 400 year mission to provide beer to the huddled masses (ok, mostly just for themselves at the beginning).

As the brewery grew, so did Tychy. By the time of German occupation during WWII, Tyskie had grown to be the biggest brewery of its kind in Europe. Operations resumed after the war, and large scale investment by the Polish State (The Party liked to drink as well) ensured that the Tyskie empire continued to expand during Communism.

This is also when Tychy started to first become known as somewhat of a socialist workers’ paradise. The massive workforce employed at the brewery were treated relatively well in the 60’s and 70’s; sporting complexes were built, and a beach and docks constructed on the bucolic Lake Paprocany (Jeziora Paprocańskie).

To find out more about the city’s beer-entwined history visit the Tyskie Brewery which also houses the local City Museum.

Modern day Tychy is of course still tied to its long and storied brewing tradition as the Tyskie Brewery continues to pump out millions of hectolitres of beer a year and now exports all over the world. Tychy itself has also remained a destination for both vacationers and beer lovers. Lake Paprocany offers endless fun for amateur and professional sailors, swimmers and sun bathers.

Most recently the city broke ground on what will be the biggest year-round Water Park Complex in all of Poland. The city also has a full cultural calendar so plan your trip accordingly. iyp.me/katowice

Tychy SIGHTSEEING BROWAR OBYWATELSKI This is one of the most dynamic and rapidly developing spaces in all of Silesia and is a model for the post-industrial potential of the region as a whole. The brewery was opened in 1897 by Polish-Jewish businessmen and until WWI it grew steadily in stature and quickly became a competitor to Browar Tyskie, the biggest brewery in Europe at the time. Tyskie did the only reasonable thing and bought out Obywatelskie in 1918. The brewery continued pumping out millions of hectolitres of Poland’s leading lager until the last production facility was shut down in 1999. Since then, the current owners of the brewery have been slowly renovating the buildings on the premises and turning them into a meeting place for business, recreation, dining and the arts, indeed, the latest addition is the Warzelnia, a monthly art/ club space. The Con Amore restaurant is the beating heart, but the much larger Industrialna conference centre and concert hall is becoming more and more popular for regional events. The expansive courtyard is used during the yearly Industriada Festival in June and also hosts the impressive 3D Mapping Festival every September. They have finished renovating most of the other historic buildings on site and they will soon be transformed into one of the most modern Business and Technology offices in all of Silesia and employ hundreds if not thousands of workers. Tours of the complex are available by request and we suggest you come make a day/or a night of it.Qul. Browarowa 7, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 323 00 20, www.browarobywatelski.pl. Admission free.

MUSEUM OF THE DUKE’S BREWERY IN TYCHY The Tyskie Brewery has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally German-owned, today Poland’s most famous brewery produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually, and 13 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager - Poland’s bestselling beer. The enormous historical brewing complex is one of Silesia’s architectural marvels, much of which is open to the public for guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a humorous and informative English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire modern production process and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning in the Browarium (Brewery Museum). Housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic former Evangelical church built in 1902, this rather superb space combines modernity and tradition across several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia. A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery through the ages. Next your guide takes you through parts of the production plant, starting from the Old Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside them. Highlights include the saucy tales from the so-called ‘Bachelors’ Quarters,’ a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant.

And of course it all concludes with a tasting session in the on-site pub. Tours are available in in Polish, English, German, iyp.me/polandblog

Italian, Czech, Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear what that might sound like), and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20zł, take the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, and learn how to bring a full bouquet of flavours and fragrances out of beer over the course of workshops and tastings with a beer expert.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.zwiedzbrowar.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun, Last entrance 3 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 30/25zł.

For groups of 20 or more it’s 28zł per person.

PROMNICE HUNTING LODGE One of Silesia’s best kept secrets seemingly since its creation, this absolutely stunning hunting lodge has discreetly passed the centuries overlooking a picturesque lake in the middle of a dense forest, down a dirt road 30km south of Katowice, between Tychy and Pszczyna. Though hardly a challenge to visit for anyone with a car, Promnice’s relatively remote location has helped ensure the survival of one of the area’s most unique, unexpected and astoundingly beautiful architectural monuments. Essentially a small castle, this English neo-Gothic ‘hunting lodge’ was built in 1868 when the land fell to Herzog von Pless, holder of the title ‘Master of the Emperor’s Hunt’ in the Prussian Empire, which occupied the area at that time. Closely connected to the Prussian court in Berlin, von Pless built the immaculate lodge to host grand hunting parties in the surrounding forests, which were attended by rulers from all over Europe, including Emperor Wilhelm I and Tsar Alexander II. Almost unaltered since the von Pless dynasty passed into oblivion in 1945, the sumptuous interiors are densely adorned with all manner of mounted beasts, weaponry and hunting regalia, original period furnishings and a plethora of oil paintings. The German-influenced exterior features a tower embellished with stag heads, decorative timber framing, stained-glass windows, and wooden balconies. Aesthetically, Promnice is unlike anything else in Silesia and its incredibly scenic location on Paprocańskie Lake surrounded by forests full of hiking and biking trails makes it a great place to unwind. This historic place is open to the public as a hotel and restaurant.

Walk-ins are welcome in the restaurant when private functions aren’t taking place but it’s wise to call ahead and announce your intention to visit, which we guarantee you won’t regret.QZameczek Myśliwski Promnice, tel. (+48) 32 219 46 78, www.promnice.pl.

WATER PARK To date, Tychy, a city of 120,000 people only has one public swimming pool. As of mid 2018, this is set to change with the opening of a new water park in the city. ‘Wodny Park Tychy’ will consists of many water attractions, but will also contain a fitness club and a spa and wellness centre, consisting of Japanese rock saunas (Gabonyoku), floating pods, which block out exterior sensations, leaving you calm and relaxed, and finally, balneotherapy tubs. Check in on their website and Facebook pages for the latest information.Qul. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego, tel. (+48) 32 325 72 35, www.parkwodnytychy.pl.

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Auschwitz

The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate. | © noel moore, Dollar Photo Club

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable.

Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide.

Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past.

All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it.

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the 68 Katowice In Your Pocket

VISITING AUSCHWITZ

If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (April - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before 10:00 or after 16:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free on your own (last entrance to Auschwitz I is 1.5hrs iyp.me/katowice

Auschwitz before closing). Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online), but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish; tours in other languages can also be arranged in advance through the website.

Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows with different designations, and excessive signage that is unclear or contradicts itself. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, head for the desk marked ‘Individual Guests;’ however, from March those without tickets must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance before then queuing for at the inside cash desk for ‘Individual Guests.’ Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau.

Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for AuschwitzBirkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose.Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz. org. Both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau open in March 07:30 - 18:30, in April, May 07:30 - 19:30, in June 07:30 - 20:30. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps, plus the film, costs 50/45zł. Tours for groups range from 430-850zł depending on size of group and type of tour. Official guidebook 10zł.

Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free, but the film costs 6/3zł. iyp.me/polandblog

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

The town of Oświęcim lies 33km south-east of Katowice and there are several ways of getting there, though the easiest may be just signing on for an organised tour through a local company like Silesia Trip (p.52). Direct trains go every couple of hours from Katowice central station and there are numerous bus options both big and small.

Buses (e.g. Bryl & Wójcik) leave frequently from Katowice’s main bus station (B-2, ul. Skargi 1) every day starting at 08:40. A one way ticket costs about 9-20zł with the journey taking 60-70mins (prices and times depend on the company). The bus makes several stops along the way, and most weekday buses will drop you off at the Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22), which is 1.5km away. From there hop on local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 to make the short trip to the museum; you can purchase the 2.70zł fare from one of the nearby kiosks.

Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau are located 3km apart (with the train station strategically between them). Free museum buses shuttle visitors between the two parts of the camp every 20 minutes from the morning (11:00 in March, 10:30 Apr-Jun), then there are the last buses around 18:40 in March, 19:40 Apr/May and 20:40 in June (check upon arrival for schedule).

Alternatively, catch a cab for a rich 15zł.

To get back to Katowice, you need to catch a bus from the Oświęcim train station. Again, local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 make the trip from Auschwitz I to the train station for 2.70zł. Buses from there back to Katowice are frequent, but the last one leaves at 17:27 Mon-Sun.

ALSO IN OŚWIĘCIM OŚWIĘCIM JEWISH MUSEUM & SYNAGOGUE If you have more time to spend in Oświęcim, head to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving in the centre of Oświęcim) for more information on the town’s Jewish heritage, including a permanent exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II. Located near Oświęcim’s market square 3km from the Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored programmes for those who plan their visits in advance, and there’s a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 510 78 11 99, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sat closed.

From April open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat closed. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 15zł, kids 6 and under free.

March – June 2018 69

Leisure

Jumpcity

Though it wouldn’t appear so on first, second or third glance, Katowice and the surrounding areas possess a startling number of recreational areas and leisure opportunities.

Though known more for its industrial ‘attractions’ and poor air quality than its nature conservation record, Silesia has some of the largest urban green spaces, not only in Poland, but all of Europe. Chorzów’s Silesia Park is a veritable leisure section’s worth of activities in itself, and though we’re tempted to stop there, it’s only one of an incredible four parks in the immediate area that weigh in at an impressively over-sized 70+ hectares. If you’re searching for daytime alternatives to drinking and tumbling down mineshafts, they do exist. From horse-riding to star-gazing, from climbing to flying, Silesia offers plenty of opportunities for you to get up, get out and get busy.

ADRENALINE SPORTS JUMPCITY Are you hip to this? The newest fitness/recreation craze sweeping the globe (we’ve been told) is jumping like a madman around a room filled with trampolines and occasionally taking a dip into pits filled with foam. Release your inner six year old and literally bounce off the walls, ceilings and navigate some interesting obstacles. The perfect way to spend a rainy day, blow off some steam or just have some good old fashioned fun. Entrance is every hour and you must turn up 15 minutes before to get ready and have your anti-skid socks, available for purchase on the spot for 5zł.QH‑7, ul. Tadeusza Kościuszki 227, tel. (+48) 32 781 88 84, www.jumpcity.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

Prices start from 24zł per session.

70 Katowice In Your Pocket

LASERHOUSE This excellent 600 square metre laser tag arena near the centre of Katowice is equipped with strobe lights, florescent graffiti, dry ice, dynamic music and elaborate backdrops to fully immerse gamers into an exciting futuristic world.

Engage your opponents in a sci-fi shootout while using barrels and tire pyramids for cover, or take a crack at the challenging laser maze (30 minutes for 50zł) with varying levels of difficulty. Laser Tag games are 30mins and cost 18zł Mon-Fri before 16:00, 22zł after 16:00 Mon-Thu and 25zł on a Friday. Weekends are 25zł all day. Attempts at the laser maze are 5zł. Also at ul. Wojska Polskiego 47 in Sosnowiec, Pl. Tadeusza Kościuszki 1 (C.H. Agora) 3 floor in Bytom.and ul. Bolesława Chrobrego 6 in Rybnik.QA‑4, ul.

Kamienna 9, tel. (+48) 32 229 00 21, www.laserhouse.pl.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

BIKE RENTAL CITY BY BIKE Katowice’s city-organised bike rental system (available from April) makes exploring the Silesian capital’s concrete causeways and eclectic architecture easier than ever with 244 bikes found at 30 locations around the city centre including Katowice Rynek, NOSPR, ul. Mariacka, Park Kościuszki and Park Dolina 3 Stawów (Valley of Three Ponds). Bikes are available 24/7 but you have to register on their website first where you can also find a full list of bike locations. Log onto: www.citybybike.pl/en/ to find out how it works.QD‑2, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, www.citybybike.pl.

10zł for registering on their website, 0-15min - 0zł, 1660min - 1zł, 2 hrs - 2zł, 3hrs - 3zł, every additional hr is 4zł. iyp.me/katowice

Leisure BOWLING & BILLIARDS BLACK 8 Inside a large underground entertainment complex on the outskirts of Katowice’s city centre, Black 8 is for those with more than a drunken or passing interest in pool. The only professional billiards club in Kato, Black 8 is home to 15 Dynamic II billiards tables and two high-quality snooker tables all with new cloth. Having organised the Polish Billiards Championships this place knows more than a thing or two about racking em’ up and knocking em’ down. Black 8 is also a restaurant offering a large menu of Polish standard fare and of course a lengthy drink menu to quench the players thirsts. Tables cost 10-20zł/h for billiards and 17-27zł/ h for snooker. Evening reservations would be wise.QJ‑3, ul.

Dąbrówki 10, tel. (+48) 32 781 08 60, www.clubgarage. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.

KRĘGIELNIA GALAKTYKA Located inside a 2000 square metre entertainment centre that includes the Black 8 billiards club, a music club (Club Garage) and a restaurant, this popular bowling alley features 8 lanes (plus 2 for kids), planetary graphics, computerised scoring, a full food and snack menu and even a stocked bar. True bowlers may find the setup which forces you to walk through every lane a bit frustrating, but not nearly as much so as the lanes themselves: extremely narrow, bowling has probably never been harder and you can forget about trying to put any spin on the ball. Still, it’s a fun atmosphere. Depending on the day of the week and time of day, lane rental costs 35-79zł/hr plus 2zł shoe rental; check website for full details. Reservations recommended.

QJ‑3, ul. Dąbrówki 10, tel. (+48) 32 781 08 60, www. clubgarage.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.

INDOOR ATRACTIONS NEW BREAK THE CODE ESCAPE ROOM There are a whole host of escape room games popping up across Poland, and Katowice is not one to be left on the sidelines anymore! The concept is simple, you must play the game, break the code and escape the room (from a choice of four)! To say more would spoil the fun! Games are for 2-4 people with games lasting 1 hour at a cost of 99zł p/ group. Introductions are available in English, but after that, no English available, which should not put you off as the games are fairly universal in nature. The worst that could happen if you don’t understand is you remain locked in FOREVER.QD‑4, ul. Św. Stanisława 9/3, tel. (+48) 790 27 53 33, www.breakthecode.pl. Open 15:30 - 22:15, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 22:15.

NEW ESCAPE KATOWICE You have 45 minutes to get escape! 45 minutes to get out!

OK, it’s not a life of death situation, quite the contrary, but you get the point. A fun experience for groups looking for something different to do, or those looking for teamiyp.me/polandblog

building exercises. Groups can be between 1-4 people at a cost of 79zł p/group. They cater to English speakers, which helps, and you have a choice of two rooms to escape from (a 3rd is currently being built) - the research centre and the room for adventurers!QC-3, ul. Teatralna 8/5A, tel. (+48) 514 22 12 23, www.escapekatowice.pl. Open 16:45 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00.

INDOOR PLAYGROUNDS CIUCIUBABKA Basically the best babysitters out there, Ciuciubabka gives your kids an opportunity to wear themselves out in a safe, supervised environment full of slides, ballpits, inflatible bouncy things, jungle gyms, arts and crafts and a lot more.

The desert island every kid wants to get left on. Everybody wins. Tickets prices for weekdays/weekends: first half hour 7/8zł, second started half hour 6/7zł, one hour 13/15zł, unlimited playtime 21/25zł.QJ‑1, ul. Jabłoniowa 52 (Józefowiec), tel. (+48) 504 21 68 14, www.ciuciubabka. com.pl. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

SPA & BEAUTY CITY SPA & WELLNESS Customised treatments for men and women in this centrally located house of luxuries: facials, hand, foot and body treatments, hairdressing and a lot more.QA‑6, ul. Henryka Jordana 19, tel. (+48) 32 251 01 99, www. cityspa.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. SENSE SPA This full service exclusive spa is the only spa in Silesia that offers the high end Japanese SENSAI massages, peelings and other deep healings. They offer a huge amount of all natural products, RevitaLash products and a wide variety of wellness, beautifying and relaxation services. Free consultations are available for both men and women so do your body a favour and stop on by, it just makes Sense.QC‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48) 600 80 84 98, www.sensespa.pl. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. TERMY RZYMSKIE Found in the impressive Pałac Saturna (see Apartments), these Roman baths were reportedly constructed based on plans for the baths at Pompeii and include a series of pools, baths and saunas which combine ancient and modern-day methods to relax and regenerate you plus a fitness club, restaurant and bar on site. The entire complex is something to behold, not least of all for its obligatory ‘nude-only’ policy. The only exception is Mondays when bathing suits are allowed in the pools. The surprisingly low prices and bold dress code have garnered this place plenty of attention, but the fact remains that facilities are of the highest quality in PL.Qul. Dehnelów 2, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 267 26 98, www.palacsaturna.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:45, Mon 15:00 - 22:45, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

March – June 2018 71

Shopping

Luxury jewellery and products all available at Lilou.

What little shopping opportunities there are to be found in Katowice are mostly located in the area immediately north of the train station. Like most of 21st-century Poland, many shops are given over to the sale of women’s fashion, with more interesting independent enterprises in seriously short supply. In lieu of the small, communist-era malls around the Rynek, Katowice’s best collection of shops under one roof is the extraordinary Silesia City Centre; if you can’t find what you’re looking for there, then you might have to leave PL to get it. That aside, we’ve made an effort through this section to focus on small local or national businesses you won’t find wherever you’re from.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but note that beginning from March 2018 a new law that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland goes into effect. To be phased in gradually, the law initially allows normal trading days on the first and last Sundays of each month, while forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops. The Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep on those Sunday when trade is allowed. The first Sundays when the shopping ban will be enforced are the following: March 11, 18 April 01 (Easter Sunday), 08, 15, 22 May 13, 20 June 10, 17 72 Katowice In Your Pocket

ALCOHOL Nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of booze and an increased alcohol tolerance. Indeed, if retracing your activities while in Katowice you may have to concede that alcohol makes the most logical memento. While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), Żołądkowa Gorzka (bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature gold flakes.

BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP A really admirable selection of world wines for all tastes and budgets in this shop/wine bar hidden in a courtyard near the train station. Another location in the Altus Centre (H-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13).QB‑3, ul.

3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. KONDRAT WINA WYBRANE Not your typical wine shop. Own and operated by a famous Polish actor, they carefully handpick each and every wine that line’s their shelves assuring only the best selection of vintages from the Old and New world for your sipping pleasure.QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 10/1, tel. (+48) 32 205 20 94, www.marekkondrat.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/katowice

Shopping WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE If you happen to be a whisky and high end spirits lover, or you know someone near and dear who is, then this shop is a must stop. It’s no accident they spell ‘whisky’ without an ‘e’ as exclusive Scotch single malts are their specialty and we dare say they may just have the best selection we’ve seen in all of Poland! Talisker, Laphroaig, and Macallan are just the beginning and the knowledgeable owner/ specialist will gladly help expand your knowledge and improve your pallet. Of course you’ll also find highend bourbons, voluptuous vodkas, lucious liquours and, oh yeah, some pretty good whiskey as well. They also have a great wine, cider and craft beer selection to fill out their impressive offer. We recommend you take your time to find that perfect tincture or tipple because it’s certainly here somewhere.QC‑5, ul. Plebiscytowa 13, tel. (+48) 511 55 54 11, www.whiskyandspirit.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY LILOU This uniquely colourful and immediately inviting salon is filled with all sorts of glittering gadgets, precious pendants, delicate necklaces and leather bracelets. Their elegantly playful nature of the salon gives you the freedom to mix and match any of the items on display. The expert and friendly staff will happily help you choose the right piece and customise it so that special someone will cherish their talisman even more. Lilou is the perfect melding of French elegance and Polish craftsmanship.QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 68, www.lilouparis.com/en.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. W. KRZYŚ One stop shopping for all your gold, diamond, pearl and luxury watch needs. They stock hot brands such as Chopard, Omega, Girard Peregaux, Longines, Rado, Certina, Tissot, Calvin Klein and Davosa. They also have watch repair services and they sell accessories. A great excuse to break out that new Platinum Mastercard. They have a 2nd shop in Silesia City Center, open all week 10:00-21:00.QC‑4, ul. Staromiejska 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 39, www.krzys-jubiler.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

GALERIA SZTUKI FOX A unique and welcoming gallery specialising in modern art, paintings, sculpture, graphics and hand-made jewellery. Fox also offers decor services, and - somewhat surprisingly - exquisite teas. There is ample parking and the opening hours are merely a suggestion and they will easily stay open longer if you so desire.QB‑6, ul. Powstańców 10, tel. (+48) 600 08 77 21, www. galeriafox.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM EMPIK Located in the massive Silesian City Center, this is the best place in town to find English language paperbacks, guide books, a few foreign newspapers and a decent range of CDs and DVDs. One stop shopping for all your mass media wants and needs.QJ‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 22 451 03 94, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.

KOMIS PŁYTOWY (RECORD STORE) The largest selection of vinyl we’ve ever seen in PL is hidden in this courtyard off one of Katowice’s main streets. Bargainpriced, though not extremely well-organised used CDs, as well as music-related DVDs, and posters.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 19, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Perfumeria Lulua Staromiejska 21, Katowice (+48) 502-089-092 lulua.katowice@lulua.pl fb: www.facebook.com/luluaperfumeriakatowice instagram: @lulua.katowice

Lulua – niche products.

For him, for her.

ART & ANTIQUES DESA This is Desa’s flagship location in Katowice and this classy show room has a variety of unique antique works of art, furniture, china, collectibles, decorative items and jewellery.

Get lost in a their spacious cases of treasures from another age. The attentive and helpful art experts on hand are there to help you find the perfect piece for your private collection or that special someone. They also handle the sale and appraisal of works of art and antiques. Also located at ul.

Dworcowa 13.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 5, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 22, www.desakatowice.com. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 73

Shopping FASHION & ACCESSORIES International designer clothing and fashion brands can be found in Katowice’s shopping malls, namely the peerless Silesia City Centre (I/J-2). High quality Polish brands to peel an eye for include Reserved, Vistula, Tatuum and Carry.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, you should find no trouble locating secondhand clothing stores around the city, ranging from self-respecting retailers to those who offer a room of rummage bins; just look for the words ‘Tania Odzież.’ Finally, the clothing market around Plac Synagogi on ul. Mickiewicza (B-3) is a great place to get stockings with runs in them and underwear stretched and displayed on a steering wheel.

GESZEFT Wonders never cease in this hip store for hipsters and lovers of divine design. We’ve never seen a place exude cool so effortlessly and everything you pick up, look at or try on makes you drool. Ease into the sleek coffee bar and grab a java drink to help you think. Wander the stylish salon which has racks of Polish designer threads, KATO-themed knick-knacks and shoulder bags, funky jewellery and even home decor. Look through art & archi books or grab a Silesion region mag while you curl up in a window seat and search for reasons to linger here a little longer. This unique boutique is one stop shopping for temporary tourists, culture vultures and fierce fashionistas alike. For misses and misters, but not to be missed.QK‑2, ul. Morcinka 23-25, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54, www.geszeft.co. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

FLOWER SHOPS MADLEN FLOWERS Flowers are wonderful, aren’t they? A perfect gift to the ones we love. Madlen Flowers offers you traditional options for that special someone, from a bouquet of flowers (just take a look at the arrangement of said bouquets and try not to be impressed!), to gifts to have around the house, like helium ballons and to the new trend of having your very own mesmerising mini-forest in a jar! What’s better, you can choose to buy online through their site. Impressive.QD‑4, ul. Mariacka 12, tel. (+48) 577 97 42 79, www.madlen.pl.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & SWEETS NATURA Ideal for those with dietary needs, Natura sells a range of organic and gluten free health food products, honeys, coldpressed oils, teas, herbs and the like.QA‑6, ul. Kościuszki 57, tel. (+48) 601 70 70 57. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Read more reviews online: katowice.inyourpocket.com 74 Katowice In Your Pocket

ORGANIC FARMA ZDROWIA We’re not sure what it says about the organic farming industry and health food market when the only place to find a store like this is in a shopping mall, but here it is: a small, expensive selection of soy and gluten-free products, natural spices, oils, honeys, and other health-conscious goods.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 02 96, www.organicmarket.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS ANWA Local hand-made porcelain, glass and ceramics. They also have products from Bolesławiec, known for its ceramics.QC‑5, ul. Kochanowskiego 2 (entrance from ul.Wojewódzka), tel. (+48) 32 251 39 23. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. CEPELIA A larger than average version of the national folk art chain selling a range of related arts and crafts from kitsch to quintessential including some fine tapestries, wood carvings, regional dolls and even complete folk costumes for both men and women (upon request).

QC‑3, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 87 44, www. cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. KURKA BEZ PIÓRKA A charming shop promoting art by young local artists, Kurka Bez Piórka specialises in handicrafts and fiber arts, but offers a wide range of art and accessories, including graphic prints, ceramics, hand-made jewellery, home decor items, gift baskets and even paintings and illustrations all made by graduates from Katowice’s Academy of the Arts. They also have another location at ul. Panewnicka 98. Please note, this place is closed on Saturdays due to workshops taking place inside. Call ahead to make sure it’s open!QB‑6, ul. Powstańców 4, tel. (+48) 691 40 10 40, www. kurkabezpiorka.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SADZA SOAP This is the ultimate must-have souvenir for the Silesian enthusiast in your family. A lump of pristine coal that you can use to clean off all that coal dust you picked up from visiting one of the region’s many mines. Ok, so it may be a novelty, but it is actually made of high quality soap with absolutely deft design. Yet another perfect stocking stuffer. You can purchase your very own clean coal for around 30zł. They also have shampoo or body wash for 35zł, peeling soap for 40zł and a gift box for 180zł (or mini-box set for 70zł). You can order them online, in selected museums and info points around town or visit ‘MUS Wszystkiego Dobrego’ shop on ul. Bednorza 49/2 where their products are sold . Email them for more info.

QC‑2, www.sadzasoap.com. iyp.me/katowice

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KATOWICE, 15 Dworcowa Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

iyp.me/polandblog March – June 2018 75 Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Shopping SILESIA CITY CENTER

Located mid-way between Katowice and Chorzów on the site of an old 1904 coal mine, the spectacular Silesia City Center easily trumps everything else in the region. A combined retail, gourmet and entertainment complex, the original 65,000 metre-square building (now over 86,000) was opened in 2005 and in 2011 hotel heiress Paris Hilton descended upon Silesia to open a new wing with 60 additional shops, 2 more restaurants, a dentist office, massage studio, beauty salon and additional parking, bringing the total number of spaces to 3,500 - the largest lot in Silesia. Designed to blend in with the surrounding Gothic architecture, this shopping mall has over 300 shops including Tesco, Saturn and EMPiK superstores, a Cinema City movie complex and is even a decent place to eat thanks to the upstairs Bierhalle Restaurant, Hana - a magnificent sushi restaurant located externally in the mine’s former swimming pool and the new industrial sheik bistro Sztolnia. Other features include the preserved, red brick St Barbara’s Chapel and the remains of the tower that once lowered the miners underground - now the symbol of the commercial centre. Get there via tram numbers 0, 1, 6, 11, 19, 23 & 33 or bus no.s 662, 673, 674, 820, 830 & 840.QI‑2, ul. Chorzowska 107, tel. (+48) 32 605 00 00, www.silesiacitycenter.com.pl.

Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.

HEALTH & BEAUTY LULUA This niche perfume and cologne shop fields orders from all over the world, but is located right in the heart of Katowice, just up from the Rynek. Specialising in unique artisanal scents, Lulua is lauded for their expertise and unparalleled customer service (a rarity in these parts). In addition to a fantastic array of olfactory enticements, from obscure manufacturers to top luxury brands, Lulua also offers luxury skin care products, shaving kits and men’s grooming accessories. This is an excellent place to pick up a unique gift for either sex.QD‑4, ul. Staromiejska 21, tel. (+48) 502 08 90 92, www.lulua.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS TARGOWISKO MIEJSKIE You haven’t really experienced Poland until you’ve smelt the unique fragrance of fruit, vegetables, fish and Chinese cotton that make up the main things for sale in a classic outdoor Polish market. This small market south of the train tracks comes with red and 76 Katowice In Your Pocket

white striped awnings and a good selection of the aforementioned things for sale at bargain prices.

QB‑5, Pl. Miarki, tel. (+48) 32 250 40 08, www. ztm.katowice.pl. Open 06:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Fruit and Vegetable Market is open 24/7 (weather permitting). Clothing bazaar is open to the public Sat and Sun 06:00 - 12:00.

SHOPPING MALLS DH SUPERSAM Katowice seems to be making up for lost time and it seems that every other month another new building or museum has a grand opening. This impressive modern glass and steel mini mall is the newest building to pop up in the city center and it certainly classes up the neighbourhood. The Supersam Shopping Centre isn’t entirely a new structure as it was literally built on the supporting steel frame of the original building from the 1930’s of the same name and reopened in 2015. Besides its superstructure, the new reinvented building has very little in common with its historical predecessor save its overarching economic mission to provide shoppers with a broader range of affordable shops, services, restaurants and outlets (100 shops and service units on over 18,000 m2) than you may find in some of the bigger shopping malls in town. Of course you will find a few International commercial stalwarts like Rossmann, Pepco plus a lot of bigger name Polish shops like Empik, Cropp and Reserved. For a full list of shops and services log on to their website or FB page.QB‑3, ul. Skargi 6, tel. (+48) 32 712 18 32, www.supersam-katowice.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

GALERIA KATOWICKA The mighty Galeria Katowicka finally shed its cranes and opened its vaulted doors to a giddy and gasping public in September 2013, in concert with the completion of the final part of the three-stage modernisation of the Katowice Train Station. Featuring over 200 shops and service points - including a supermarket, several convenience stores, media and appliance outlets, all the top Polish and foreign clothing and shoe brands not to mention a slew of jewellery and interior design boutiques - the mall literally spills out onto Plac Szewczyka, which is covered in new restaurants and cafes, and includes an underground parking lot with 1,200 spaces (first 2 hours free!). Essentially the cornerstone of the modernisation and general beautification of the entire city centre, Galeria Katowicka and the new train and bus station were designed to smoothly blend into the city’s architecture and act as a convenient corridor of commerce for travellers, business professionals and locals alike. An unavoidable aspect of any visit to the city, those who weren’t around to ‘enjoy’ the old train station will probably never understand just what a blessing this commercial and transport complex really is.QB‑3, ul. 3 Maja 30, tel. (+48) 32 414 16 01, www.galeriakatowicka.eu. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/katowice

Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES

PRIVATE CLINICS

APTEKA BLISKO CIEBIE QC‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 32 258 11 11.

INTER-MEDQK‑1, ul. Grabowa 32 (Wełnowiec), tel. (+48) 32 205 88 30, www.inter-med.pl. Open 08:00 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

APTEKA DR. MAX QC‑5, ul. Wojewódzka 7, tel. (+48) 32 251 77 62.

24-HOUR SHOPS

LUX MEDQB‑2, ul. Sokolska 29, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.

CAREFFOURQM‑2, Al. Roździeńskiego 200, tel. (+48) 32 786 21 00, www.carrefour.pl.

SAD-MEDQC‑3, ul. Teatralna 9, tel. (+48) 32 782 40 40, www.sadmed.com.pl.

POD RĘKĄ QO‑2, ul. Gen. Hallera 6, tel. (+48) 32 204 88 58.

REAL ESTATE

COMPUTER REPAIR

PIKQB‑5, ul. Kościuszki 26/7, tel. (+48) 32 781 95 82, www.pik.slask.pl.

GLOBAL SERVICE City centre location, however, 2nd location on ul.

Brynowska 39 (south of Park Kościuszki), +48 32 700 35 94, has English speaking staff.QL‑3, Al. Roździeńskiego 90, tel. (+48) 32 700 35 21, www.global-serwis.pl.

PROLOKUMQC‑3, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 781 09 99, www.prolokum.pl.

DENTISTS

EKSPERTQJ‑2, ul. Johna Baildona 16/2, tel. (+48) 500 26 56 78, www.ekspert.katowice.pl.

EMERGENCY DENTAL SERVICE Open 24hrs for all your middle of the night dental emergencies.QL‑4, ul. Krasińskiego 25A, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 85, www.dentalservice.com.pl.

MED CENTRUM QA‑3, Pl. Wolności 4, tel. (+48) 32 352 56 50, www. medcentrum.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.

LAUNDRY RIZOMA LAUNDRYQC‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 509 50 34 00, www.pralnierizoma.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. SELF-SERVICE LAUNDRY KATOWICE QD‑4, ul. św. Stanisława 8A, tel. (+48) 661 52 22 88.

Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N­W

LOCKSMITHS EXPRES Found in all major shopping centres in Katowice, the perfect place to duplicate keys, repair shoes, buy a range of batteries, stamps and souvenirs.QB‑4, ul. 3-go Maja, Katowice, tel. (+48) 32 790 44 38, www.e-expres.pl.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKA QC‑4, ul. Pocztowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 359 45 98, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs. iyp.me/polandblog

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS EUROBUSINESS - HALLERQF‑2, ul. Obroki 133, tel. (+48) 32 355 38 01, www.haller.pl.

GROY QL‑3, ul. 1 Maja 9, tel. (+48) 32 352 10 01, www.groy.pl.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Katowice, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission.

FIFTY-FIFTY QC‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 32 258 44 04.

Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KANTOR MAX GRAND QB‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 22, tel. (+48) 604 40 17 00, www.kantorykatowice.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MAX KANTOR QB‑3, ul. Stawowa 10, tel. (+48) 694 99 21 67. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. March – June 2018 77

Hotels DIAMENT SPODEK QD‑1, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 606 85 85, www. hotelediament.pl. 30 rooms (29 singles, 26 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­U­F­K­D­C hhh HOTEL FORUM KATOWICEQul. Bytkowska 1A, tel. (+48) 32 721 11 11, www.hotelforumkatowice.pl.

168 rooms (61 singles, 74 doubles, 30 suites, 1 apart‑ ment). P­H­6U ­ ­F­K­D hhhh HOTEL KATOWICE QC‑3, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 258 82 81, www.hotel-katowice.com.pl. 113 rooms (48 singles, 51 doubles, 14 suites). H­6­UK ­ hh Mini golf in the lobby of the wacky Diament Spodek

Katowice, and Silesia in general, is first and foremost a business destination, though it is quickly becoming a premier event hub for festivals, concerts, conferences and sports competitions. Reflecting this fact is an ever expanding accommodation market, with the lion’s share going to business-class hotels. Still, you can find some decent low-price options, especially if you’re willing to lay your head a bit further from the action.

On our website - katowice.inyourpocket.com - we list scores of accommodation options in and around Silesia, with full reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide don’t allow us to include all of that content here, but below we provide a list of the most reputable accommodation options in Katowice and the surrounding region. Sleep well.

IN KATOWICE B&B HOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QA‑3, ul. Sokolska 4, tel. (+48) 32 700 50 88, www. hotelbb.pl. 105 rooms (105 singles, 102 doubles, 3 triples). P­H­6­U­X hh CAMPANILEQL‑5, ul. Sowińskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32 205 50 50, www.campanile.com. 77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles). P­H­6­U­K hh COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT KATOWICE CITY CENTER QD‑3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 93 50, www.marriott.com. 151 rooms (37 singles, 65 doubles, 15 suites, 1 apartment, 33 Executive). P­H­6­U­F­ L­K­D hhhh DIAMENT PLAZA KATOWICE QC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 746 70 00, www. hotelediament.pl. 46 rooms (12 singles, 29 doubles, 4 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­FK ­ hhhh 78 Katowice In Your Pocket

IBIS BUDGET KATOWICE CENTRUM QL‑3, Al. Roździeńskiego 18, tel. (+48) 32 350 50 40, www.ibisbudget.com. 124 rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles, 4 triples). P­6­U h MONOPOLQC‑4, ul. Dworcowa 5, tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. 108 rooms (12 singles, 93 doubles, 3 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­ L­K­D­X­C hhhhh NOVOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QK‑3, Al. Roździeńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 32 200 44 44, www.accorhotels.com. 300 rooms (207 singles, 93 doubles). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­C hhhh PATIO ZAJAZD Qul. Kościuszki 352 (Piotrowice), tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www.patiozajazd.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles, 12 doubles, 3 triples, 1 quad, 1 five-person room). 6­K­W PARK HOTEL DIAMENT KATOWICE QJ‑4, ul. Wita Stwosza 37, tel. (+48) 32 720 00 00, www. hotelediament.pl. 184 rooms (6 singles, 173 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­6­UF ­ ­K hhhh Q HOTEL PLUS KATOWICE QC‑5, ul. Wojewódzka 10, tel. +48 32 740 99 40, www.qhotels.pl. 121 rooms (120 singles, 118 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­U­F­K hhhh SENATORQL‑3, ul. 1 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 32 258 60 81, www.senator.katowice.pl. 48 rooms (47 singles, 47 dou‑ bles, 1 apartment). H­6U ­ ­L­K hhh SILESIAN HOTEL QUALITY AND ECONOMY QK‑5, ul. Szybowcowa 1A, tel. (+48) 32 606 88 00, www. silesianhotel.pl. 202 rooms (8 apartments). P­H­6­ U­F­K­D­C hhh VIENNA HOUSE EASY ANGELO KATOWICE QB‑2, ul. Sokolska 24, tel. (+48) 32 783 81 00, www. viennahouse.com. 203 rooms (181 singles, 181 doubles, 5 suites, 17 apartments). P­H­U­F­K­D­X hhhh iyp.me/katowice

Hotels IN CHORZÓW DIAMENT ARSENAL PALACE KATOWICE/ CHORZÓW QQ‑5, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 84 84, www.hotelediament.pl. 115 rooms (21 singles, 91 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). H­6­U­F­L­K­ D­C­w hhhh DIAMENT BELLA NOTTE KATOWICE/CHORZÓW QQ‑4, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (12 singles, 31 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). H­6­U­F­L­K­ D­C­w hhh

AROUND UPPER SILESIA DESILVA INN KATOWICE AIRPORT Qul. Równoległa 2, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www.desilva.pl. 77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles, 77 triples). P­H­6­U­F­K hhh DIAMENT ECONOMY GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 42, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www.hotelediament.pl. 27 rooms (7 singles, 20 doubles). 6­U­L­K hhh DIAMENT PLAZA GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 30, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 721 70 00, www.hotelediament.pl. 91 rooms (32 singles, 54 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­6­F­L­K hhhh

IBIS KATOWICE - ZABRZE Qul. Jagiellońska 4, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.ibis.com. 114 rooms (114 singles, 114 doubles).

P­H­K hh M HOTEL SOSNOWIEC Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199, Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 32 363 63 00, www.mhotelsosnowiec.pl. 55 rooms (51 singles, 50 doubles, 4 suites). H­6­U­F­LK ­ hhh NOMA RESIDENCE QZameczek Myśliwski Promnice, tel. (+48) 32 219 46 78, www.promnice.pl. 13 rooms (13 singles, 13 doubles).

H­K­D hhhh QUBUS HOTEL GLIWICE Qul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. 89 rooms (35 singles, 44 doubles, 6 suites, 4 apartments). P­H­6­UK ­ hhh ROYAL Qul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 400 00 00, www. hotelroyal.com.pl. 50 rooms (14 singles, 36 doubles).

P­T­H­F­L­K­D­X hhh WILLA AMBASADOR Qul. 3 Maja 78, Zabrze (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 32 271 50 44, www.mosir.zabrze.pl. 28 rooms (26 singles, 17 doubles, 8 triples, 2 suites). P­K

DIAMENT VACANZA SIEMIANOWICE ŚLĄSKIE Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie, tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.hotelediament.pl. 44 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles, 19 triples, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­K­ D­w hhh DIAMENT ZABRZE Qul. 3 Maja 122A, Zabrze (Zaborze Południe), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 00, www.hotelediament.pl. 58 rooms (16 singles, 34 doubles, 6 suites, 2 Studio). H­6­F­ K­D hhh HOTEL RYCERSKI (KNIGHTS HOTEL) Qul. Będzińska 53, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl. 26 rooms (24 singles, 19 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). H­K hhh HOTEL SZAFRAN Qul. Będzińska 82, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 784 31 00, www.hotelszafran.pl. 115 rooms (2 singles, 84 doubles, 22 triples, 7 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K­X hhhh

/polandinyourpocket iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018 79

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Street Register KATOWICE 1 Maja L/N-3 Adama Mickiewicza B-3 Adolfa Dygacza L-4/5 Akacjowa I-2 Akademicka L-3 Albatrosów J-5 Aleja Walentego Roździeńskiego C/E-2; E-3, K/M-3; M-2; N-2 Aleja Wojciecha Korfantego C-1/2, J-1; K-1/2 Aleksandra Hercena J-4 Alfonsa Górnika K-2 Alfonsa Zgrzebnioka I-5; J-5/6 Alpejska K-5; L-5 Andrzeja A-4/5; B-5 Astrów A-7; B-7 Bagienna L/O-3; O-4 Bankowa D-3/4; E-3 Błękitna J-2 Bocianów J-5 Boczna I-4 Bogucicka L-3 Bohaterów Monte Cassino L-2; M-2/3 Bolesława Czerwińskiego C-1, K-2 Bożogrobców I-2; J-2 Brata Alberta E-5 Bratków A-7; B-7 Bronisława Czecha L-3 Bruno Żogały L-2 Brynowska I-5/6 Ceglana J-5; K-5 Cicha J-2 Czapli J-5 Dobra J-2 Drzewna L-3 Dworcowa A/C-4 Edwarda Bugli I-4/5 Emanuela Imieli I-5 Fiołków A-7 Floriana L-3/4 Franciszka Anioła I-2/3 Franciszka Lubeckiego-Druckiego K-3; L-3 Francuska D-4/7, K-4/6

Friedricha Wilhelma Grundmanna A-1, J-2/3 Fryderyka Chopina A-3; B-3 Gabriela Narutowicza I-3 Gawronów I-5; J-5 Generała Józefa Longina Sowińskiego D-7; E-7, K-4; L-4/5 Generała Józefa Zajączka A-6/7 Generała Kazimierza Pułaskiego L-4/5 Generała Stanisława Szeptyckiego E-6, K-4; L-4 Generała Władysława Sikorskiego L-4 Gliwicka A-3, F/I-2; I-3; J-3 Górna L-2 Górnicza E-3/4, F-1 Graniczna E-6/7, K-4; L-3/4 Grzegorza Fitelberga I-5 Gustawa Morcinka C-1, J-2; K-2 Haliny Krahelskiej L-3/4 Heleny Modrzejewskiej I-5/6 Henryka Dąbrowskiego C-5; D-5 Henryka Jordana A-6; B-6, J-4 Henryka Mikołaja Góreckiego D-1; E-1, K-2; L-2 Henryka Sienkiewicza C-5/7 Chorzowska A/C-1; B-2; C-2 Chrześcijan Baptystów L-2 Ignacego Jana Paderewskiego L-3/4 Jagiellońska B/D-5 Jana III Sobieskiego A-2/3, J-3 Jana Kilińskiego A-5/6, J-4 Jana Kochanowskiego B-5; C-4/5 Jana Matejki A-3/4 Jana Nepomucena Stęślickiego A-1, J-2 Jasna J-2 Jerzego Dudy-Gracza L-3 Johna Baildona I-2; J-2 Józefa Ignacego Kraszewskiego L-2 Józefa Lompy C-5/7; D-5, K-4 Józefa Rymera A-6 Józefa Wolnego I-2/3 Józefa Zajączka A-6

Illuminated glass boxes at Silesian Museum (p.54)

84 Katowice In Your Pocket

Juliana Ordona D-1; E-1, K-2 Juliusza Ligonia B/D-6; B-5 Juliusza Słowackiego A-3/4; B-2/3 Juliusza Zarębskiego I-3 Kaktusów K-2 Kamienna A-4, J-3 Karbowa K-4 Kardynała Bolesława Kominka I-4 Karola L-3 Karola Miarki L-3 Karoliny L-2 Katowicka K-2; L-2 Kawek I-5/6 Kazimiery Iłłakowiczówny J-2; K-1/2 Kazimierza Dłuskiego J-4 Kazimierza Pułaskiego L-4 Kazimierza Skiby I-5/6 Klimczoka I-2/3 Klonowa K-2 Kolibrów J-5/6 Konstantego Damrota D-7; E-4/7 Konstantego Ildefonsa Gałczyńskiego I-5 Konstantego Woźniczki I-5/6 Kopalniana L-3 Kormoranów I-5; J-5 Koszarowa I-4 Kozielska A-5, J-3/4 Krakusa L-2 Królowej Jadwigi C-5/6 Krzemienna K-5 Krzysztofa Mieroszewskiego L-2 Krzywa A-5; B-5 Księcia Józefa Poniatowskiego A-6/7, J-4 Księdza Aleksandra Skowrońskiego L-3/4 Księdza biskupa Czesława Domina B-7 Księdza biskupa Józefa Gawliny I-4 Księdza biskupa Stanisława Adamskiego I-4; J-4 Księdza biskupa Teodora Kubiny I-4 Księdza Franciszka Ścigały L-2/3 Księdza Józefa Czempiela B-7

© Aleksandra Mielniczuk

Księdza Józefa Szafranka D-5 Księdza kardynała Bolesława Kominka I-4; J-4 Księdza kardynała Stefana Wyszyńskiego K-2 Księdza Karola Żmija I-2 Księdza Konstantego Damrota D-7, K-4 Księdza Norberta Bończyka L-2 Księdza Piotra Skargi B-3; C-3 Księdza Stanisława Maślińskiego L-3 Łabędzia I-5; J-5 Lelków J-5/6 Leopolda L-2; M-2 Leopolda Markiefki L-2/3 Lipowa I-2 Ludomira Różyckiego I-5 Ludwika L-2 Macieja I-3 Macieja Ledóchowskiego I-3 Maksymiliana Wilimowskiego J-3/4 Marcina I-2/3 Marcina Szeligiewicza A-7; B-7 Mariacka D-4 Marii Goeppert-Mayer A-4, J-3 Marii Skłodowskiej-Curie A-5/6 Meteorologów J-5 Michała Drzymały A-5/6; B-5 Michała Grażyńskiego B-1; C-1, J-2; K-2 Mikołaja Kopernika A-5; B-5 Mikołaja Reja L-3 Mikołowska A-4/5, I-4/5; J-3/4 Misjonarzy Oblatów MN J-2; K-2 Młyńska B-4; C-4, F-1 Modrzewiowa K-2 Morawska L-2/3 Morwowa K-2 Murckowska L-3/4; M-3/5 Myśliwska E-4 Nad Osiekiem J-3/4 Nadgórników L-2 Narcyzów A-7 Normy L-2 Nowa L-2/3 Nowotarska L-2 Olimpijska C/E-1; D-2, K-2 Ondraszka I-2/3 Opolska A-2/3; B-3, J-3 Parkowa I-5 Pawła Stalmacha A-5/6, J-4 PCK A-6 Pelikanów J-5 Pętla Słoneczna K-2 Piastowska C-3; D-3 Piękna I-4/5 Pilotów K-4 Piotra L-2 Plac Karola Miarki B-5 Plac Wolności A-3/4 Plebiscytowa B-6/7; C-5/6, J-4 Pocztowa C-4 Podgórna C-5 Podhalańska L-2; M-2 Podchorążych B-6/7 Powstańców A/E-6, K-4 Profesora Augusta Chełkowskiego D-3; E-3 Profesora Waleriana Pańki D-3; E-3, K-3; L-3 Prosta K-4; L-4 Prowansalska L-5

iyp.me/katowice

Street Register CHORZÓW

The Spodek UFO at the end of the runway (p.57) ©Aleksandra Mielniczuk Przemysłowa E-5, K-4; L-4 Puławska L-2 Raciborska I-3/4; J-3/4 Relaksowa I-4 Rodańska K-5 Rondo generała Emila Fieldorfa "Nila" D-7, K-4 rondo Generała Jerzego Ziętka C-2 Rondo generała Stanisława Maczka I-4 Rondo Józefa Pietera D-2 Rondo Kazimierza Zenktelera E-7, K-4 Rondo księdza Józefa Kani I-2 Rondo księdza Konstantego Michalskiego J-5 Rondo Policji Województwa Śląskiego D-7 Równoległa L-3 Różana A-7 Roździeńskiego L-3 Rybnicka D-6/7 Rycerska I-4 Ryszarda L-3 Sądowa A-3/4, J-3 Skalna J-4 Sławomira Skrzypka D-1, K-2 Sokolska A-3; B-1/3; C-1, K-2 Śródmiejska C-2/3 Stanisława Fliegera J-4 Stanisława Kobylińskiego D-5 Stanisława Moniuszki D-3 Stanisława Rochowiaka I-4; J-4 Starowiejska D-4 Stefana Batorego B-5 Stefana Czarnieckiego L-3 Stefana Okrzei J-2; K-2 Strzelecka J-4 Świętego Jacka E-5 Świętego Jana C-4 Świętego Pawła E-3/4 Sztygarska L-3

iyp.me/polandblog

Szybowa I-4 Szybowcowa K-5 Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego L-2/3 Tadeusza Konckiego B-5/6 Tadeusza Kościuszki A-6/7; B-4/6; C-4 Tadeusza Rejtana L-3 Tarasa Szewczenki I-2 Teatralna D-3 Trzech Stawów L-4; M-4 Tylna Mariacka C-4; D-4 Uniwersytecka D-2/3; E-2/3 Walerego Wróblewskiego L-2/3 Waleriana L-3 Warszawska C/E-4, K-3; L-3 Wąska I-2 Węglana L-2 Węglowa I-2 Wiązowa K-2; L-2 Widok J-2 Wierzbowa K-2 Wincentego Janasa I-3 Wincentego Styczyńskiego B-5 Wincentego Wajdy L-2 Wiślana L-2 Wita Stwosza B-5/7, F-1; J-4/5 Władysława Broniewskiego K-2 Władysława Łokietka L-3 Władysława Reymonta D-5/7 Wodna E-3/4 Wojewódzka C/E-5; C-4 Wrocławska L-2; M-2 Zabrska A-2/3 Zacisze E-5 Zakopiańska L-2 Zamułkowa I-2 Żelazna I-3; J-2/3 Zofii Koniarkowej L-2 Żołnierzy Wyklętych K-4; L-4 Żwirki i Wigury A-5; B-5/6, J-4 Zygmunta Krasińskiego E-5, K-3/4; L-4

Al. Bojowników o Wolność i Demokrację P-5 Al. Fali R-5 Al. Gwiazd R-5 Al. Główna Q-5; R-5 Al. Harcerska Q-5; R-5 Al. Klonowa R-4/5 Al. Księcia Henryka Pobożnego Q-5 Al. Księżnej Jadwigi Śląskiej Q-5 Al. Muzyków R-4 Al. Planetarium R-5 Al. Różana Q-5; R-5 Al. Spacerowa Q-5; R-5 Al. Sportowa R-5 Al. Widokowa R-4 Al. Wojska Polskiego P-5; Q-5 Al. Wycieczkowa Q-4; R-4 Al. Łani R-4/5 Alfonsa Zgrzebnioka Q-5 Astrów P-5 Bankowa P-4 Bartosza Głowackiego P-5 Biskupa Bernarda Bogedaina P-4 Bolesława Chrobrego P-4; Q-5 Chorzowska Q-5; R-5 Cmentarna P-5 Czysta P-5 Częstochowska P-5 Dobrodzieńska P-5 Doktora Andrzeja Mielęckiego P-4 Doktora Józefa Rostka P-4 Drogowa Trasa Średnicowa P-5 Dworcowa P-4 Działkowa P-5 Dębowa Q-5 Floriańska P-4 Franciszka Karpińskiego P-4 Franciszkańska P-5 Franklina Delano Roosevelta Q-4 Fryderyka Chopina P-4 Gajowa P-4 Generała Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego P-4/5 Górna Q-4 Górnicza P-5 Hajducka P-5 Henryka Majętnego Q-4 Henryka Sienkiewicza P-4 Hetmańska Q-5 Ignacego Mościckiego Q-4/5 Ignacego Paderewskiego Q-4/5 Jagiellońska P-4 Jana Faski P-4 Jana III Sobieskiego P-4 Jana Kilińskiego P-4/5 Jasna P-5 Juliana Grządziela P-5 Józefa Lompy P-4 Józefa Ryszki P-5 Józefa Wybickiego Q-4 Kadecka Q-4 Karolinki Q-4 Kaszubska P-4 Katowicka P-4/5; Q-5 Kazimierza Wielkiego P-4 Klimzy P-5 Konstantego Damrota P-4 Krakowska Q-4 Krakusa P-4 Krzywa P-4/5 Kręta P-5 Księcia Józefa Poniatowskiego P-4

Księcia Władysława Opolskiego P-4 Księdza Augustyna Kordeckiego P-5 Księdza Biskupa Ignacego Krasickiego P-4 Księdza Jana Gałeczki P-4/5 Ludwika Szabatowskiego P-4 Ludwika Urbanowicza P-5 Lwowska P-4; Q-4 Magistrala Węglowa P-4; Q-4 Marii Konopnickiej P-4; Q-4 Mazurska Q-4 Michała Drzymały P-4/5 Mikołaja Kopernika P-4 Modrzewiowa R-4 Młodzieżowa P-5; Q-5 Osiedle Klimzy P-5 Parkowa Q-4/5 Piaskowa P-5 Piotra Skargi P-4; Q-4 Plac AKS Q-5 Plac Dworcowy P-4 Plac Jana Matejki P-4 Plac Kopernika P-4 Plac Piastowski Q-4 Plac Powstańców Śląskich P-4 Pocztowa P-4 Pod Estakadą P-4 Pogodna P-4; Q-4 Powstańców P-4/5 Promenada generała Jerzego Ziętka R-5 Promenada Jerzego Ziętka R-5 Przy Gazowni P-5 Przyjemna P-5 Racławicka P-5 Rajnholda Domina P-5 Rondo księdza biskupa Ignacego Jeża Q-5 Rycerska Q-4 Rynek P-4 Różana P-5 Siemianowicka R-4 Sportowa P-5 Stanisława Moniuszki P-4 Starego Zdroju P-4/5 Stefana Żeromskiego P-4 Szczecińska P-5 Słoneczna P-5 Słowiańska Q-4 Tadeusza Kościuszki P-4; Q-4 Tadeusza Rejtana Q-4 Teatralna P-4 Towarowa P-4 Tysiąclecia Q-5 Ułańska Q-5 Wawrzyna Hajdy P-5 Willowa P-5 Wiosenna P-5 Wiśniowa Q-5 Wolności P-4 Wschodnia R-4 Wycieczkowa R-4/5 Węzłowiec R-4 Władysława Truchana P-4 Zielona Q-5 Zjednoczenia P-4 Łąkowa P-5 Świętej Anny P-5 Świętej Barbary P-5 Żwirki i Wigury P-5

March – June 2018 85

Index 3 Siostry Bajgiel i Kawa 22 Absurdalna 43 Ambasada Śledzia 44 Amnezja 43 Anwa 74 Bar a Boo 35 B&B Hotel Katowice Centrum 78 Biała Małpa 43 Bierhalle 30, 46 Bistro & Cafe Krystynka wraca z Wiednia 30 bistro & cafe zielnik 30 Black 8 71 Bohema 30 BoomBarr 44 Botanika 28 Break the Code Escape Room 71 Browariat 44 Browar Obywatelski 67 Buddha 29 Bujna 28 BUŁKĘS 31 Burgundia Wine Tastings & Wine Shop 48, 72 Cadenza 38 Cafe Byfyj 63 Cafe Kattowitz 22 Campanile 78 Cepelia 74 C'est Si Bon 26 Chata z Zalipia 38 Christ the King Cathedral 52 City By Bike 70 City Information Office 52 City Pub 44 City Rock 25 City Spa & Wellness 71 Ciuciubabka 71 Cloud Scraper 55 Coffee Ways 22 Cooler Club & Food 26, 48 Courtyard by Marriott Katowice City Center 78 Cristallo 35 Cybermachina 44 Desa 73 DeSilva Inn Katowice Airport 79 DH Supersam 76 Diament Arsenal Palace Katowice/Chorzów 79 Diament Bella Notte Katowice/Chorzów 79 Diament Economy Gliwice 79 Diament Plaza Gliwice 79 Diament Plaza Katowice 78 Diament Spodek 78 Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie 79 Diament Zabrze 79 Drzwi Zwane Koniem 45 Dworek Pod Lipami 39 Dzień i Noc 31 El Mexicano 38 Empik 73

86 Katowice In Your Pocket

Escape Katowice 71 Europa 30, 40 Fabryka Kurtosza 40 Galeria Katowicka 76 Galeria Sztuki Fox 73 Geszeft 74 Hana Sushi 36 Hipnoza Jazz Club 46 Hobu 36 Hospoda 26 Hotel Forum Katowice 78 Hotel Katowice 78 Hotel Rycerski 79 Hotel Szafran 79 Hurry Curry 25 Ibis Budget Katowice Centrum 78 Ibis Katowice - Zabrze 79 Industriada 2018 8 Industrial Ethnography Museum 62 International Congress Centre 55 JUMPCITY 70 Kartofelnik 40 Kato 45 Katowice Historical Museum 53 Kawiarnia Wawelska 22 KluboGaleria SARP 31, 45 Klub Pomarańcza 48 Kofeina Corner 23 Komis Płytowy 73 Kondrat Wina Wybrane 72 Kredens 46 Kręgielnia Galaktyka 71 Królestwo 49 Kurka Bez Piórka 74 Kyoto Sushi 37 La Cantina 37 Laserhouse 70 Legendia Amusement Park 60 Len Arte 35 Lilou 73 Little Hanoi...and more!

41 Longway 46 Lulua 76 Madlen Flowers 74 Mad Mick 26 Masala House 29 M Hotel Sosnowiec 79 Monopol 23, 78 moodro bistro & cafe 23 moodro restaurant 41 Mr. Fox Pub & Resto 46 Museum of the Duke’s Brewery in Tychy 67 Namaste Traveller's Club 46 Nasze Bao 25 Natura 74 Nikiszowiec Information Office 52 Noma Residence 79 NOVO 35 Novotel Katowice Centrum 78 Ogrodzieniec Castle 65

Okiem i Brzuchem 28 Old Cuban 47 Organic Farma Zdrowia 74 Oświęcim Jewish Museum & Synagogue 69 Pan de Rossa 32 Park Hotel Diament Katowice 78 Patio 32 Patio Park 32 Patio Zajazd 32, 78 Petit 26 Plac Wolności 56 Planetarium 60 Promnice Hunting Lodge 67 PTTK Katowice 52 Pub Kontynuacja 47 Q Hotel Plus Katowice 78 Qubus Hotel Gliwice 79 Queen Louise Adit 65 Queens 49 Rajzefiber 49 Restauracja Kuchnia Otwarta 39 Restauracja Max 33 Restauracja Monopol 33 Restauracja Pod Drewnianym Bocianem 33 Restauracja Sunlight 27 Restauracja Tamarynd 34 Restauracja Vacanza 34 Restaurant Via Toscana 37 Ristorante Terra Mare 36 Royal 79 Rycerski 39 Rynek 56 Sadza Soap 74 Senator 78 Sense Spa 71 Shrimp House 37 Silesia City Center 76 Silesian Hotel Quality and Economy 78 Silesian Insurgents' Monument 53 Silesian Museum 54

Silesian Museum - The Grand Hotel 54 Silesian Parliament 57 Silesian Tourism Organisation 65 SilesiaTrip.pl 52 Śląska Prażalnia Kawy Cafe Amor 23 Śląska Prohibicja 63 Souvlaki Bar 28 Spiż 46 Spodek 57 St. Anne's Church 62 Steakhouse Da Da 34 St. Mary's Church 53 Sweet Home Silesia 23 Synergia. Dobre Miejsce 23 Sztolnia. Chleb. Mięso. Wino 27 Targowisko Miejskie 76 Tatiana 34 Termy Rzymskie 71 Thali House by Masala House 29 Upojeni 47 Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park 60 Vienna House Easy Angelo Katowice 78 Visiting Auschwitz 68 Walcownia Cynku: Zinc Metallurgy Museum 54 Water Park 67 WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE 73 Wiejska Chatka 39 Willa Ambasador 79 Wilson Shaft Gallery 62 W. Krzyś 73 WunderBAR 27 Zaklęty Czardasz 28 Zdrowa Krowa 26 Zielony Most 28 Zillmann Tea & Coffee 63 Złoty Róg 40 Żółte Drzwi 48 Zoo 60 Żurownia 41

FEATURES INDEX Currency Exchange Katowice for Beer Lovers Language Smarts Market Values Polish Food Polish Snacks & Shots Polish Vodka Street Art Tipping Tribulations Tourist Info & Tours Transport Tools/Apps Women of Silesian Industry

77 48 15 14 40 44 49 56 45 52 11 6 iyp.me/katowice

Gliwice ul. Ceglarska 35 www.queensnightclub.pl Open: 18:00 - 05:00 tel. 032/ 305 30 20

American Bar

Erotic Show Dance

Go-Go Dance

We invite you to Queens nightclub.

Discretion is of our highest concern, as immediately evidenced by our parking lot.

The interior design of the rooms and equipment complement each other to create an intimate, erotic atmosphere.

We dedicate the greatest care to the cleanliness of the club.

Your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Genießen Sie in angenehmer Atmosphäre, die perfekt gemixten Drinks unserer Bar, die prickelnde Erotikshow der QUEENS - Girl´s auf der Bühne, während Sie sich entspannt in einem der vielen Sofas zurücklehnen. Sie erleben eine Tabledance Show der Extraklasse, die perfekt aufeinander abgestimmt ist.

Die Sound & Lichttechnik im QUEENS Striptease Club unterstreicht dieses noch. Geniessen Sie einen “Private Dance”, den persönlichen Striptease, nur für Sie mit einer Tänzerin Ihrer Wahl.

Die Tänzerinnen des Nachtclub´s, verstehen es Erotik, Verführung, Varieté und Akrobatik miteinander zu verbinden.

Ob Junggesellenabschied, Firmenfeier, Geburtstag, Vereinsfeier oder Abschlußfeier, der Tabledance Club ist der ideale Ort um einen unvergesslichen Abend zu erleben und tabulos zu feiern.

“Dich erwartet eine exzellente Tabledance - Erotikshow” Wir freuen uns auf euren Besuch Euer QUEENS - Team